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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Madras, by Glyn Barlow
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Story of Madras
+
+Author: Glyn Barlow
+
+Release Date: September 14, 2008 [EBook #26621]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STORY OF MADRAS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                    [Illustration: Chepauk Palace.
+                                   (Southern half)]
+
+
+                                 THE
+
+                           STORY OF MADRAS
+
+
+
+
+                                  BY
+
+                          GLYN BARLOW, M.A.
+
+
+                     WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                            BY THE AUTHOR
+
+
+
+
+
+                           HUMPHREY MILFORD
+
+                       OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
+
+                   LONDON, BOMBAY, CALCUTTA, MADRAS
+
+                                 1921
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+This little book is not a "History of Madras," although it contains a
+good deal of Madras history; and it is not a "Guide to Madras,"
+although it gives accounts of some of the principal buildings in the
+city. The book will have fulfilled its purpose if it helps the reader
+to realize that the City of Madras is a particularly interesting
+corner of the world. This fact is often forgotten; and even many of
+the people who live in Madras itself, and who are aware that Madras
+has played an important part in the making of India's history, are
+strangely uninterested in its historic remains. They are eloquent
+perhaps in denouncing the heat of Madras and its mosquitoes and the
+iniquities of its Cooum river; but they have never a word to say on
+its enchanting memorials of the past. Madras has memorials indeed.
+Madras is an historical museum, where the sightseer may spend many and
+many an hour--in street and in building--studying old-world exhibits,
+and living for the while in the fascinating past. Madras is not an
+ancient city; its foundation is not ascribed to some mythic king who
+ruled in mythic times; it has no hoary ruins, too old to be historic
+and too legendary to be inspiring. But Madras is old enough for its
+records to be romantic, and at the same time is young enough for its
+earliest accounts of itself to be--not unsatisfying fables, but
+interesting fact. The story of Madras fills an absorbing page of
+history, and the sights of Madras are well worthy of sympathetic
+interest--especially on the part of those whose lines of life are cast
+in the historic city itself or within the historic presidency of which
+it is the capital.
+
+In the following pages certain places and events have been briefly
+described more than once with different details; any such repetitions
+are due to the fact that the Story of Madras has been told in a series
+of vignettes, appertaining to particular buildings or particular
+conditions, and each vignette had to be complete in itself. It is
+hoped that such repetitions will be of familiar interest, rather than
+tedious.
+
+In respect of the facts that are recorded, apart from general history,
+I am indebted principally to the valuable Records of Fort St. George,
+which the Madras Government have been publishing, volume by volume,
+during several years, and which I have studied with interest since the
+first volume appeared. Of other works that I have consulted, I must
+specially mention Colonel Love's "Vestiges of Madras," which is a very
+mine of information.
+
+G.B.
+
+MADRAS, 1921.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                     PAGE
+PREFACE                               v
+
+CHAP.
+
+I.      BEFORE THE BEGINNING          1
+
+II.     THE BEGINNING                 5
+
+III.    FORT ST. GEORGE               9
+
+IV.     DEVELOPMENT                  18
+
+V.     'THE WALL'                    25
+
+VI.     EXPANSION                    35
+
+VII.    OUTPOSTS                     41
+
+VIII.   THE CHURCH IN THE FORT       47
+
+IX.     ROMAN CATHOLIC MADRAS        56
+
+X.      CHEPAUK PALACE               63
+
+XI.     GOVERNMENT HOUSE             69
+
+XII.    MADRAS AND THE SEA           78
+
+XIII.   THE STORY OF THE SCHOOLS     87
+
+XIV.    HERE AND THERE              101
+
+XV.    'NO MEAN CITY'               111
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+CHEPAUK PALACE                     _Frontispiece_
+
+
+                                        PAGE
+
+MAP OF MADRAS, ABOUT 1710                10
+
+CORRESPONDING MAP, 1921                  11
+
+CLIVE'S HOUSE                            16
+
+A BIT OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL             26
+
+CENTRAL GATE OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL      28
+
+A MAGAZINE IN THE BLACK TOWN WALL        30
+
+'THE OLD AND THE NEW'                    32
+
+MAP OF MADRAS                            36
+
+SAN THOMÉ FORT                           42
+
+EGMORE FORT (SIDE VIEW)                  44
+
+REMAINS OF THE EGMORE FORT               46
+
+ST. MARY'S, FORT ST. GEORGE              49
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS                 74
+
+THE SEA GATE                             80
+
+THE COMPANY'S FLAG                       81
+
+SURF-BOAT                                83
+
+UNIVERSITY SENATE HOUSE                  96
+
+PACHAIYAPPA'S COLLEGE                    97
+
+DOVETON PROTESTANT COLLEGE               98
+
+ST. GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL                  102
+
+ST. ANDREW'S (THE 'KIRK')               104
+
+ST. THOMÉ CATHEDRAL                     106
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL NOTES
+
+
+The East India Company established                               A.D. 1600
+
+First English settlement, at Masulipatam                              1611
+
+Site of Madras acquired by Mr. Francis Day                            1639
+
+The acquisition confirmed at Chandragiri by the Hindu
+    'Lord of the Carnatic'                                            1639
+
+The Hindu lord of the Carnatic (the Raja of Chandragiri)
+    dethroned by the Mohammedan Sultan of Golconda                    1646
+
+The Company secure from Golconda a fresh title to their
+    possessions
+
+The Sultan of Golconda dethroned by the Moghul
+    Emperor, Aurangzeb, who appoints a 'Nawab of the
+    Carnatic'                                                         1687
+
+The Company secure from a representative of the Emperor
+    a fresh title to their possessions
+
+Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic, invests Madras for
+    three months, and is finally bought off                           1702
+
+In Europe, England and France are engaged in the War
+    of the Austrian Succession                                   1740-1748
+
+Dupleix, who is possessed with the idea of making France
+    politically influential in India, is appointed Governor of
+    Pondicherry                                                       1742
+
+In the war in Europe he sees an opportunity for fighting
+    the English in India, and French forces under LaBourdonnais
+    capture Madras                                                    1746
+
+Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, by which Madras is restored to
+    the English                                                       1748
+
+Two Carnatic princes quarrel for the Nawabship                        1749
+
+The French and the English in South India join in the
+    quarrel on opposite sides. In the name of the claimant
+    whom the English supported, Clive captures Arcot,
+    the capital of the Carnatic, and then defends the town
+    against the rival claimant and his French supporters              1749
+
+The French are defeated in the open field, and the
+    struggle is at an end                                             1752
+
+In Europe, England and France are engaged in the Seven
+    Years' War                                                   1756-1763
+
+In India, Count Lally besieges Madras unsuccessfully for
+    more than two months                                    A.D. 1758-1759
+
+The English defeat the French at Wandiwash                            1760
+
+The English capture Pondicherry                                       1761
+
+Treaty of Paris, by which Pondicherry is restored to the
+    French                                                            1763
+
+(The town was captured again in 1786 and in 1803).
+
+Haidar Ali makes himself Sultan of Mysore about 1760,
+    and reigns till his death, which occurred in                      1781
+
+Tipu, his son, succeeds him, and reigns till he is slain in
+    defending his capital, Seringapatam, against an assault
+    by the English                                                    1799
+
+(Madras was frequently disturbed by the raids of the
+    father and of the son; and Tipu's death relieved
+    the townsmen of constant anxiety.)
+
+The Supreme Court of Judicature established at Madras                 1801
+
+In default of an heir, the Carnatic 'lapses' to the Company           1855
+
+The Madras Railway opened for traffic                                 1856
+
+The Indian Mutiny                                                1857-1859
+
+The Madras University instituted                                      1857
+
+The High Court established                                            1861
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ERRATUM
+
+On page 1, _for_ 'Madraspatnam' _read_ 'Madraspatam.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+BEFORE THE BEGINNING
+
+
+Three hundred years ago, Madras, under the name of 'Madraspatnam' was
+a tiny rural village on the Coromandel Coast. Scattered about in the
+neighbourhood there were other rural villages, such as Egmore, Vepery,
+and Triplicane, which are crowded districts in the great city of
+Madras to-day. In Triplicane there was an ancient temple, a centre of
+pilgrimage, dating, like many village temples in India, from very
+distant times; this was the Parthasarathy temple, which is the
+'Triplicane Temple' still. A little fishing village called Kuppam,
+lying directly on the seashore, sent out, even as Kuppam does now, its
+bold fishermen in their rickety catamarans in perilous pursuit of the
+spoils of the sea. There was one small town in the neighbourhood,
+namely, the Portuguese settlement at Mylapore, where the tall façades
+of the several churches, peeping over the trees, formed a land-mark
+for the Portuguese ships that occasionally cast anchor in the roads.
+
+Such was the scene in 1639, the year in which our story of Madras begins.
+The Portuguese had already been in India for nearly a century and a half;
+and under their early and able viceroys they had made themselves powerful.
+The stately city of Goa was the capital of their Indian dominions, and they
+had settlements at Cochin, Calicut, Mylapore, and elsewhere. But the
+influence of the Portuguese was now on the wane. For nearly a century they
+had been the only European power in India and the Eastern seas; but
+merchants in other European countries had marked with jealous eyes the rich
+profits that the Portuguese derived from their Eastern traffic, and
+competitors appeared in the field. First came the Dutch, who in India
+established themselves at Pulicat, some twenty-five miles north of
+Mylapore. Holland had lately thrown off the yoke of Spain, and was full of
+new-born vigour; and Dutch trade in the East--chiefly in the East India
+Islands--was pushed with a rancorous energy that roused the vain
+indignation of the decadent Portuguese. Six years later, in 1600, came the
+English. The English traders were employees of the newly-established East
+India Company, and were sent out to do business for the Company in the
+East; and they had to face the opposition of the Dutch as well as of the
+Portuguese. Their earliest enterprise was in the East India Islands, and it
+was eleven years before they gained their first footing in India, at
+Masulipatam. Here they established an agency and did very considerable
+business; later they formed a fortified sub-agency at Armagaum, a good way
+down the coast, not far from Nellore. At first their fortunes went well;
+but local rulers exacted ruinous dues, and at Armagaum in particular the
+local ruler, alarmed at the influence that the English merchants had
+gained, set himself so seriously to the work of handicapping their trade
+that Mr. Francis Day, the Company's representative at Armagaum and a member
+of the Masulipatam Council, proposed to the Council that he should be
+allowed to seek a field for commercial enterprise more favourable than
+either Armagaum or Masulipatam. To Mr. Francis Day was committed the
+business of finding a suitable spot for a fresh settlement.
+
+It was an important commission. The East India Company's existence
+depended entirely upon the profits of their trade. The Company's
+enterprise at Armagaum was hopeless; at Masulipatam it was very
+unsatisfactory; and Mr. Francis Day was appointed to find a place
+where the commercial prospects would be bright.
+
+It should always be remembered that the East India Company was
+established purely as a commercial association, with its head office
+in London, and that its employees in India were men with business
+qualifications, appointed to carry on the Company's trade. The prime
+concern even of an Agent or a Governor was the making of good bargains
+on the Company's behalf--and sometimes on his own--getting the best
+prices for European broadcloths and brocades, and buying as cheaply as
+possible Indian muslins and calicoes and natural produce, for
+exportation to London, where they were sold at a large profit. Any
+fighting in which the Company's servants engaged was merely incidental
+to the pursuit of business in a land in which the ruling sovereigns,
+as well as the many small chiefs, were constantly at war. It is a
+maxim that 'Trade follows the Flag;' but in the case of India the Flag
+has followed Trade.
+
+It is as a commercial man, therefore, that we must picture Mr. Francis
+Day setting out on his commercial mission; but it can be imagined that
+the English merchant, starting on an expedition in which he would be
+likely to seek personal interviews with rajas and nawabs and bid for
+their favour, set out in such style as would do the Company credit. In
+our mind's eye we picture Master Francis Day, Chief of Armagaum,
+standing on the deck of one of the Company's vessels lying at anchor
+in the Armagaum roads, and receiving his colleagues' farewells. His
+garb is that of a substantial merchant in the days of King Charles I.
+It has none of the extravagances that were the fashionable
+affectations of gay Cavaliers, but its sobriety makes it none the less
+smart. He wears a purple doublet and hose, a broad white collar edged
+with lace, and a gracefully-short black-velvet cloak. Curly hair
+falls beneath his broad-brimmed black hat, but not in long and scented
+ringlets such as were trained to fall below the shoulders of
+fashionable gallants at King Charles's court. He is in every way a
+fitting representative of the Honourable Company.
+
+The bo'sun has piped his whistle, and the last good-byes have been
+said. The anchor's weighed, and the white sails are spread to the
+breeze. Master Day waves his hand to his colleagues in the surf-boat
+which is taking them shoreward, and the ship is headed to the south.
+The expedition is important--yes, and it was much more important than
+Master Day imagined; for something more serious than profits on muslin
+and brocade was on the anvil of fate.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE BEGINNING
+
+
+Mr. Francis Day was not sailing southward without definite plans. As
+the result of enquiries for a promising spot for a new settlement, it
+was his purpose to see if there was a favourable site in the
+neighbourhood of the old established Portuguese settlement at
+Mylapore. The Portuguese authorities at Mylapore, with whom Mr. Day
+seems to have corresponded, were not unwilling to have English
+neighbours. The ill-success of the English merchants at Masulipatam
+had probably allayed any fears that they would be formidable rivals to
+Portuguese trade at Mylapore; and furthermore the Portuguese welcomed
+the idea of European neighbours who would be at one with them in
+opposition to the forceful Dutchmen at Pulicat, up the coast, who
+showed no respect, not even of a ceremonious kind, for any vested
+interests--commercial or administrative--to which the Portuguese laid
+claim.
+
+So Mr. Francis Day's vessel, standing no doubt well out to sea as it
+sailed past the foreshore of the Pulicat lagoon with its unfriendly
+Dutchmen, kept its course till the Mylapore churches were sighted and
+showed that the place where the first inquiries were to be made had
+been reached. The sails were furled and the anchors were dropped, and
+we may imagine that a salute was fired in honour of the King of
+Portugal, and was duly acknowledged.
+
+It was in winter that Mr. Francis Day arrived--a time of the year when
+Madras looks its best and when the sea-horses are not always at their
+wildest tricks; and Mr. Francis Day landed without accident, and was
+pleased with the scene. There are always breakers, however, on the
+Coromandel Coast, and Mr. Day found the landing so exciting that in
+his report to the Council at Masulipatam he wrote of 'the heavy and
+dangerous surf'. But after an inspection of the surroundings he was
+satisfied with the conditions; he considered that at the mouth of the
+Cooum river there was an advantageous site for a commercial
+settlement; and the local ruler, the Naik of Poonamallee, following
+the advice of the Portuguese authorities, encouraged him in the idea
+of an English settlement within the Poonamallee domain.
+
+It is not surprising that Mr. Francis Day was pleased with what he
+saw; for Madras is not without beauty. In those idyllic days,
+moreover, the Cooum river, which was known then as the Triplicane
+river--and which even to-day can be beautiful, although for the
+greater part of the year it is no more than a stagnant ditch--must
+have been a limpid water-way; and to Mr. Francis Day, seeing it in
+winter, in which season the current swollen by the rain sometimes
+succeeds in bursting the bar, it must have appeared almost as a noble
+river, rushing down to the great sea--a river such as might well have
+deserved the erection of a town on its banks. The fact that the
+Portuguese had been at Mylapore for more than a century showed that a
+settlement was full of promise--and the more so for men with the
+energy of the English Company's representatives; and the conditions
+were such that Mr. Francis Day felt himself justified in entering into
+negotiations with the Naik for the grant of an estate extending five
+miles along the shore and a mile inland.
+
+The negotiations were successful: but the Naik was subordinate to the
+lord of the soil, the Raja of Chandragiri, who was the living
+representative of the once great and magnificent Hindu empire of
+Vijianagar; and any grant that was made by the Naik of Poonamallee
+had to be confirmed by the Raja if it was to be made valid. Two or
+three miles from Chandragiri station, on the Katpadi-Gudur line of
+railway, is still to be seen the Rajah-Mahal, the palace in which the
+Raja handed to Mr. Francis Day the formal title to the land. The
+palace still exists, and it is a fine building, though partly in
+ruins. It is constructed entirely of granite, without any woodwork
+whatsoever; but its abounding interest lies not in its structure but
+in the fact that it was in this palace that the British Empire in
+India may be said to have been begotten.
+
+There is no little interest in the thought that it was the Raja of
+Chandragiri that delivered the deed of possession to Mr. Francis Day.
+The Raja was an obscure representative of a magnificent Indian Empire
+of the past; Mr. Francis Day was an obscure representative of a
+magnificent Indian Empire that was yet to be; and the document that
+the Raja handed to Mr. Francis Day was in reality a patent of Empire,
+transferred from Vijianagar to Great Britain. It was at Chandragiri
+that the British Empire in India was begotten; it was at Madras that
+the British Empire was born.
+
+Mr. Francis Day had fulfilled his mission. He had secured territory
+where the conditions seemed to give promise of success; and his work
+was approved. His superior officer, Mr. Andrew Cogan, Agent at
+Masulipatam, came away from Masulipatam to take charge of Madras, and
+with the co-operation of Mr. Francis Day he set about the development
+of the Company's new possession.
+
+Of Mr. Francis Day's personal history we know little or nothing except
+that he was one of the Company's employees, and that he founded first
+an unsuccessful settlement at Armagaum--represented to-day by no more
+than a lighthouse--and afterwards a successful settlement at Madras.
+Later he was put in charge of the second settlement that he had
+founded, but he was relieved of, or resigned, the office at the end of
+a year. He then went to the Company's head-quarters at Bantam, in
+Java, and afterwards to England. What finally became of him is
+apparently unknown.
+
+It would probably be difficult to say whether Mr. Francis Day was a
+great man with great ideals, or was merely a shrewd man of business,
+reliable for an important commercial mission. Remembering that the
+Company was strictly a commercial concern, we may think it likely
+that, in fixing upon Madras as a site for the Company's business, he
+was guided almost entirely by the question of trade-profits, and that
+in his mind's eye there were no prophetic visions of imperial glory.
+And it has been asked indeed whether or not he really chose well in
+choosing Madraspatnam by the Triplicane river as the site of the
+proposed new settlement; for there are those who have argued that the
+prosperity of Madras has been due to dogged British enterprise and
+placid Indian co-operation, not to natural advantages, and that Madras
+has prospered in spite of Madras. We must bear in mind, however, the
+limited geographical knowledge of the times and the limitations to Mr.
+Francis Day's choice; and, whatever the verdict may be, the fact
+remains that the Madraspatnam of Mr. Francis Day's selection is now a
+vast city, and that the Empire of India which was born at Chandragiri
+is now a mighty institution.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FORT ST. GEORGE
+
+
+When the tract of land at Madras had been formally acquired, the
+European colony at Armagaum was forthwith shipped thereto (February,
+1640). According to accounts, the colony, with Mr. Andrew Cogan at the
+head, assisted by Mr. Francis Day and perhaps another chief official,
+included some three or four British 'writers,' a gunner, a surgeon, a
+garrison of some twenty-five British soldiers under a lieutenant and a
+sergeant, a certain number of English carpenters, blacksmiths and
+coopers, and a small staff of English servants for kitchen and general
+work.
+
+'Madras was a sandy beach ... where the English began by erecting
+straw huts.' So says an old-time chronicle,[1] the work of an early
+resident of Madras; and, if we take the word 'straw' in a broad sense,
+we can easily conceive the scene. In Madras the bamboo and the palmyra
+grow in abundance, furnishing materials for the quick provision of
+cheap and commodious accommodation; and we can picture the pilgrim
+fathers of Madras camped in palmyra-thatched mat-sheds on the north
+bank of the Cooum river, near the bar, the while that the houses
+within the plan of the fort are being built.
+
+[Footnote 1: The chronicle was written by Manucci, an Italian doctor
+of an adventurous disposition, who, after varied and surprising
+experiences in northern India, settled down in Madras in 1686, and
+married a Eurasian widow. 'Manucci's Garden,' where he lived, covered
+a large area which is now occupied by a number of the houses at the
+Law College end of Popham's Broadway, on the side that is nearest the
+sea. The garden was watered by a stream that used to flow where the
+Broadway tram-lines now hold their course. _Vide_ map, p. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: MADRAS about 1710, A.D.]
+
+[Illustration: Modern map (approximate) corresponding to the foregoing
+map. (1) Old black Town is no more. (2) the Fort was extended about
+1750. To provide ground, the Cooum was diverted.  (3) The sea has
+receded.]
+
+The 'sandy beach' has been waked from its longaeval placidity. Trains
+of bullock-carts are lumbering along new-made tracks, bringing stone
+and laterite and bricks and timber from various centres; and endless
+files of coolies, with baskets on their heads, are bringing sand from
+the summer-dry edges of the bed of the Cooum river. In the foreground
+of the picture, scores of chattering village-labourers, from
+Triplicane and other hamlets hard by, are working under the directions
+of the mechanical employees of the Company, chipping stone, mixing
+lime, sawing timber, carrying bricks and stones and mortar, or laying
+them adroitly in place, with little dependence on line and level.
+
+In the course of a few months the buildings were sufficiently advanced
+for occupation. The main building was the 'factory,' which formerly
+signified a mercantile office; and it was here that the Company's
+chief officials, who were styled 'factors' (agents), assisted by
+writers and apprentices, transacted the Company's business, and were
+also lodged. Included amongst the buildings were warehouses for the
+Company's goods, and also barrack-like residences for the Company's
+subordinate British employees, civil and military, according to their
+rank.
+
+From the very beginning the settlement was called Fort St. George, but
+it was several years before the buildings were surrounded by a high
+and fortified wall. It was in no spirit of military aggression that
+the Company's agents enclosed their settlement with a bastioned
+rampart, from whose battlements big cannon frowned on all sides round.
+The Company's representatives were 'gentle merchaunts,' to whom peace
+spelt prosperity; but the times were lawless, and the gentle merchants
+were wise enough to recognize that days might come when it would be
+necessary to defend their merchandise and themselves, as well as the
+town of Madras, from the roving robber or the princely raider or the
+revengeful trade-rival, and that military preparedness was a dictate
+of prudence. The days came!
+
+On such occasions the excitement in Fort St. George must have been
+great. We can imagine the anxiety with which, when the sentry gave the
+alarm, the gentle merchants climbed upon the walls and looked out at
+the horsemen that were to be descried in the distance, and asked one
+another disconsolately whether it was in peace or in war that they
+came. A brief notice of some of the occasions on which the Fort was in
+danger will be interesting.
+
+Some fifty years after the Fort had been founded, a party of soldiers
+under the Commander-in-Chief of the Mohammedan King of Golconda
+pursued some of the King's enemies into Madras, "burning and Robbing
+of houses, and taking the Companies Cloth and goods," whereupon the
+Governor of the Fort sent them word that "he would use means to force
+them out of the Towne: Uppon which they retreated out of shott of the
+Fort." They returned, however, with additional strength, and for eight
+months they besieged the stronghold, but without success; and then
+they wearied of their hopeless endeavour, and marched away.
+
+Later, a Dutch force, supported by Mohammedan cavalry, besieged San
+Thomé, which was then in the hands of the French; and for the purpose
+of the siege they occupied Triplicane village, mounting their cannon
+within the walls of Triplicane Temple, which they used as a fort.
+During the several weeks of the siege of San Thomé a powerful Dutch
+squadron blockaded the coast of Madras; and, as Britain and Holland
+were at war in Europe, there was constant anxiety in Fort St. George;
+but the Dutchmen contented themselves with the capture of San Thomé,
+and were prudent enough to let Fort St. George alone.
+
+In the days of Queen Anne, Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic, at the
+head of a large force, was reported to be marching to Madras. In Fort
+St. George there was much anxiety as to the purpose of his visit, and
+'By order of the Governor and Council' various protective measures
+were immediately proclaimed. The proclamation is to be found in full
+in the Company's Minutes; and we find an amusing reminder of the
+Company's mercantile _raison d'être_ in the fact that immediately
+after the military edicts comes the order 'That all the Company's
+cloth be brought from the washers, washed and unwashed, to prevent its
+being plundered.' The Nawab came, and he uttered threats, but he was
+mollified with luxurious entertainment. Inviting himself and his dewan
+and his chamberlain to dinner with the Governor and Councillors in the
+Fort, he was received with imposing honours, and was feasted in the
+Council Chamber at a magnificent banquet. The minutes relate that
+after dinner he was "diverted with the dancing wenches," and finally
+he got "very Drunk." At breakfast the next day in the Company's
+'Garden,' His Highness again got "very drunk and fell a Sleep;" and a
+few days later he marched his army away. In his sober moments,
+however, he had been slyly measuring the Company's strength; and six
+months later he came back with a larger force, and blockaded Madras.
+He plundered all that he could, and on one occasion his spoil included
+"40 ox loads of the Company's cloth." For more than three months the
+blockade continued, and the Company's trade was entirely stopped, and
+provisions in Madras were exceedingly scarce. Da-ud Khan, eventually
+wearying of the unsuccessful siege, named the price that would buy him
+off; and the Council, fearing the wrath of the Directors at the loss
+of their trade, were glad to come to terms. The Company's Minute on
+the occasion is a brief but exultant record: 'The siege is raised!'
+
+In 1746 there was a siege of a more serious sort. England and France
+were at war in Europe, and suddenly a squadron of French ships
+appeared off Fort St. George. After a week's siege, the English
+merchants capitulated to superior force, and they were all sent to
+Pondicherry as prisoners, and the French flag waved over Madras; but
+by the treaty which ended the war, Madras was restored to the Company.
+Twelve years later Madras was once more besieged by the French, but
+unsuccessfully, and eventually the French leaders marched their forces
+away, quarrelling among themselves over their ill-success.
+
+On several occasions, bodies of horsemen in the service of the
+adventurous Haidar Ali of Mysore, raided the country almost up to the
+Fort ditch, and were sometimes to be seen shaking their spears in
+defiance at the sentries on its walls.
+
+These were not the only occasions on which Fort St. George was
+assailed, but they suffice to show how necessary it was that the
+Company's employees and their wares should be housed within the walls
+of a fort.
+
+Fort St. George in the beginning was very small. Its external length
+parallel with the seashore was 108 yards, and its breadth was 100
+yards. When White Town, which grew up around it, was fortified, there
+was 'a fort within a fort' (_vide_ Map, p. 10); but eventually the
+inner wall was demolished. At various times the outer wall has been
+altered, but the Fort as we have it to-day is the selfsame Fort St.
+George nevertheless, a glorious relic of bygone times, and verily a
+history in stone.
+
+The gates of Fort St. George open towards main thoroughfares of
+Madras, and it is permitted to anybody to pass in and out; but it is
+not visited nearly so much as its historic associations deserve. Let
+us pass within, and see if we cannot catch something like inspiration
+from the scene where so much history has been made, and where a great
+Empire was born.
+
+[Illustration: CLIVE'S HOUSE]
+
+An old-world feeling comes over us directly we leave the highroad and
+make our way down the sloped passage and across the drawbridge over
+the moat, past the massive gates and under the echoing tunnel that
+leads through the mighty walls. Within we see the parapets on which in
+bygone days the cannon thundered at the foe. We pass on into the great
+spaces of the Fort; and in our imagination we can people them with
+ghosts of the illustrious--or notorious--dead. It was here that, in
+the reign of King James the Second, Master Elihu Yale assumed the
+Governorship of Madras, did hard work in the Company's behalf but also
+made a large fortune for himself, lost his son aged four, quarrelled
+long and bitterly with his councillors, and was at last superseded. It
+was here that Robert Clive, aged nineteen, newly arrived from
+England, entered upon his duties as an apprenticed writer in the
+Company's service, at a salary of five pounds per annum; it was here,
+in St. Mary's Church, eight years later, when he had won his first
+laurels, that he married the sister of one of the fellow-writers of
+his griffinhood; and it was here, in 'Clive's House,' which is still
+to be seen (now the Office of the Accountant-General), that he lived
+with his wife. The ancient Council Chamber is replete with historic
+associations; and St. Mary's Church offers material for many
+researchful and meditative visits. The streets have history in their
+names. 'Charles and James Street,' for example, which is a present-day
+combination of two streets of yore, is jointly commemorative of the
+days of the Merry Monarch and of his royal but unfortunate brother.
+Enough! It is not my purpose to produce a guide-book to Madras, but to
+promote an appreciation of the historic interests of the city; and I
+take it that the reader has realized that Fort St. George is
+interesting indeed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+DEVELOPMENT
+
+
+When an English colony had settled down in Fort St. George, it was
+only to be expected that a town would spring up outside. The personal
+necessities of the numerous colonists had to be supplied, and
+purveyors and bazaarmen and workmen made themselves readily available
+for the supply. The requirements in respect of the Company's
+mercantile business were yet greater. The Company's agents wanted not
+only native employees in their office--'dubashes' and 'shroffs' and
+clerks and interpreters and porters and peons, but they also wanted
+wholesale buyers of the cloth and other articles that they imported
+from England for sale, and also merchants who could supply them with
+large quantities of the Indian wares that the Company exported to
+England; and they were able to get the men that they wanted.
+
+A crowd attracts a crowd; and when once a town has begun to grow, it
+goes on growing of its own accord; and ten years after the acquisition
+of Madras, the population of the town was estimated at as many as
+15,000 souls. The Fort itself, moreover, had to be enlarged; for the
+growth of the Company's business meant that more and more factors and
+writers had to be brought out from England, and more and more
+warehouses had to be provided for the multiplied wares; and, moreover,
+the increasing lawlessness of the times necessitated a larger
+garrison. Outside the Fort, Indian and other immigrants flocked from
+near and far to settle down within the Company's domains, looking for
+profit under the white men's protection; and, with their enterprising
+spirit, they played no small part in the development of Madras.
+
+The town that grew up outside the little fort was divided into two
+sections--'the White Town' and 'the Black Town.' The boundaries of
+White Town corresponded roughly with what are now the boundaries of
+Fort St. George itself. The original Black Town--'Old Black
+Town'--covered what is now the vacant ground that lies between the
+Fort and the Law College, and included what are now the sites of the
+Law College and the High Court (_vide_ Map, p. 10). The inhabitants of
+White Town included any British settlers not in the Company's service
+whose presence the Company approved, also all approved Portuguese and
+Eurasian immigrants from Mylapore, and a certain number of approved
+Indian Christians. White Town indeed was sometimes called the
+'Christian Town.' Black Town was the Asiatic settlement. The great
+majority of the original Indian settlers were not Tamilians but
+Telugus--written down as 'Gentoos' in the Company's Records.
+
+The Company's agents encouraged people of various races to reside in
+Madras; and the names of some of the streets and districts of the town
+are interesting testimonies as to the variety of the people who came.
+
+Armenian Street--which began as an Armenian burial-ground (_vide_ Map,
+p. 10)--is an example. Armenians from Persia, like their
+fellow-countrymen the Parsees, have a racial gift for commerce; and
+Armenian merchants had been in India long before the English arrived.
+Enterprising Armenian merchants settled in Madras in its early days to
+trade with the English colonists, and the Company's agents were glad
+to have as middlemen such able merchants who were in close touch with
+the people of the land. The most celebrated of the earlier Armenians
+in Madras was Peter Uscan, Armenian by race but Roman Catholic in
+religion, who lived in Madras for more than forty years, till his
+death there in 1751, at the age of seventy. He was a rich and
+public-spirited merchant. He built the Marmalong Bridge over the Adyar
+river, on one of the pillars of which a quaint inscription is still to
+be read, and he left a fund for its maintenance; he also renewed the
+multitude of stone steps that lead up to the top of St. Thomas's
+Mount. His inscribed tomb is to be seen in the churchyard of the
+Anglican Church of St. Matthias, Vepery, which in olden days was the
+churchyard of a Roman Catholic chapel. Within the last half-century
+the Armenian community in Madras has been rapidly declining, as the
+result, probably, of inability to cope with the hustling style of
+commercial competition in these latter days; and only a very few
+representatives of the race are now to be seen in the city.
+
+In Mint Street there is a small enclosure which is the remains of what
+was once a Jewish cemetery of considerable size; and the graves that
+are still to be seen are interesting reminders of the fact that in
+bygone times there was a Hebrew colony in Madras. In more than one of
+the Company's old records the Jews in Madras are referred to as being
+rich men, some of whom held positions of high civic authority. Some of
+them were English Jews, and others were Portuguese; and most of them
+were diamond merchants, on the look-out for diamonds from the mines of
+Golconda, which were formerly very productive. The English Jews
+exported diamonds to England, and imported silver and coral to Madras;
+coral was in great demand in India, and was sent out by Jewish firms
+in London. There is still a 'Coral Merchants' Street' in Madras, a
+continuation of Armenian Street, and it is a living reminder of the
+old Jewish colony. The Golconda mines eventually ceased to be
+productive, and Jewish diamond merchants are no longer to be seen in
+the city, and the Jewish colony has long since disappeared. Jews are
+notorious all the world over as money-lenders, and it may perhaps be
+wondered why none of them survived as money-lenders in Madras; but the
+fact that Coral Merchants' Street is now the habitat of Nattukottai
+Chetties, who are past-masters in the art of money-lending, suggests
+that even the Jews were unable to compete with Madras sowcars in the
+business of usury, and that the Chetties displaced the Jews who used
+to live in the street. The little Jewish cemetery in crowded Mint
+Street is an interesting spot. One of the antique tomb-stones has been
+caught in the branch of a tree and has been lifted high in air, and is
+a quaint sight; and the deserted little Hebrew graveyard itself is
+symbolic of the dispersion of the ancient people.
+
+It is a curious fact that the Company's employees in South India never
+spoke of Indian Mohammedans as Mohammedans or as Moslems or as
+Mussalmans, but always as 'Moors.' It is thus that the name of 'Moor
+Street' is to be accounted for. The original 'Moors Street' was a
+street in which Mohammedans used to live, and the fact that one
+particular street in a large city should have borne such a name is
+evidence of another fact, namely, that in the earlier years of Madras
+very few Mohammedans resided in the town. It should be remembered that
+Madraspatnam, Triplicane, Egmore, and the other hamlets that went to
+make up the city of Madras were all of them Hindu villages; and it was
+only now and again that Mohammedans, in some capacity or another,
+found their way into the town. In the earlier years of Madras a single
+mosque sufficed for all the few Mohammedans therein. The mosque was
+located in 'Moors Street' in old Black Town, a street that was the
+predecessor of the 'Moor Street' of to-day. It was not till nearly
+fifty years after the acquisition of the site of Madras that a second
+mosque was built--in Muthialpet; and these two small mosques supplied
+Mohammedan requirements for many years. The fact is that Madras was so
+frequently troubled by successive Mohammedan enemies--the King of
+Golconda; Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic; Haidar Ali, Sultan of
+Mysore; his son Tipu, and others--that the Company was disposed to
+regard all 'Moors' with mistrust, so much so that they discouraged
+Mohammedan residents; and a measure was passed with the special
+intention 'to prevent the Moors purchasing too much land in the Black
+Town.' There are large crowds of Mohammedans in Madras now, grouped
+especially in Chepauk and the adjoining Triplicane and Royapettah; and
+this is due to the fact that in later days Nawab Walajah of Arcot, who
+was friendly to the English, came and settled down in Madras. He built
+Chepauk Palace for his residence, and the many Mohammedans who
+followed him into the city formed the nucleus of a large Mohammedan
+colony.
+
+The name 'China Bazaar' appears early in the Madras Records; and it
+would seem to have been the place where Chinese crockery was on sale.
+Whether or not the salesmen were Chinese immigrants I cannot say; but
+the fact that another street in Madras bears the name of 'Chinaman
+Street' suggests that there was at one time a colony of pig-tailed
+yellow-men in the city. The supposition is not unlikely, for China was
+included within the sphere of the Company's commercial operations,
+with Madras as the head-quarters of the trade, and ships of the
+Company plied regularly between China and Madras. Tea was one of the
+articles of trade, but Chinese crockery was in great demand in India,
+and ship-loads of cheap China bowls and plates and dishes were
+imported; and valuable specimens of Chinese porcelain were highly
+esteemed by wealthy Indians--so much so that it is on record that one
+of the Moghul emperors had a slave put to death for having
+accidentally broken a costly China dish which the emperor particularly
+admired.
+
+As the Company's trade was very largely in cloth, it can be understood
+that the Company's agents were eager to induce spinners and weavers to
+settle in Madras, so that cloth might be bought for the Company at the
+lowest possible prices from the weavers direct. Elihu Yale, who was
+one of the early Governors of the Fort, imported some fifty
+weaver-families and located them in 'Weavers' street', the street that
+is now known as Nyniappa Naick Street, in Georgetown. Some twenty-five
+years later, Governor Collet established a number of imported weavers
+in the northern suburb of Tiruvattur, in a village that was given the
+name 'Collet Petta' in the Governor's honour--a name that degenerated
+into 'Kalati Pettah'--'Loafer-land'--its present appellation. There
+was still a demand for more weavers, and eventually a large vacant
+tract was marked out as a 'Weavers' Town,' under the name of Chindadre
+Pettah--the modern Chintadripet. In order to attract weavers, houses
+were built at the Company's expense, which weavers were permitted to
+occupy as hereditary possessions. It was formally decreed that "None
+but Weavers, Spinners, and other persons useful in the Weaving trade,
+Painters (i.e. designers of patterns for chintz), Washers (bleachers),
+Dyers, Bettleca-merchants (beetle-sellers), Brahmins and Dancing
+women, and other necessary attendants on the pagoda (erected in the
+settlement) shall inhabit the said town." In Chintadripet to-day there
+are still many spinners and weavers; and one of the sights in
+Chintadripet--growing gradually more rare--is the spectacle of
+primitively-clad urchins or grown men spinning in the streets with
+primitive gear and in primitive fashion; and it is interesting to
+recall the fact that this has been going on in Chintadripet for nearly
+two centuries--an industry which the Company established.
+
+Washermanpet is another such locality. It was not so called, as many
+people imagine, for being a land of dhobies (male laundresses). In the
+Company's vocabulary a 'washerman' was a man who 'bleached' new-made
+cloth; and the Company employed a number of bleachers. The bleaching
+process needed large open spaces--washing-greens--on which the cloth
+could be laid out in the sun to be bleached; and Washermanpet covered
+a considerable area.
+
+A great many more of the streets and districts of Madras have history
+in their names; but the few that we have dealt with suffice to
+exemplify the manner of the expansion of the city of Madras. We can
+picture the rustic suppliers crowding into the city to sell the
+produce of their fields; we can picture the humble weavers migrating
+into the city with their wives and their children, and with their pots
+and their pans and their quaint machines, in response to the Company's
+tempting invitation; we can picture the small tradesmen and the small
+mechanics setting up their humble shops in the new city in which they
+believed that fortunes were to be made. And in the higher grades of
+life we can picture the grave Armenian merchants, the submissive Jews,
+the mistrusted 'Moors,' and others seeking interviews with Stuart or
+Georgian-garbed factors of the Company, and eager all of them to turn
+the Company to profitable account.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+'THE WALL'
+
+
+Skirting a thoroughfare in Old Jail Street, in North Georgetown, is
+still to be seen a part of 'the Wall' that protected Black Town in
+bygone days. This interesting remnant of the Wall of Madras might
+before long have been levelled to the ground, either by successive
+monsoons or by philistine contractors in want of 'material;' but, with
+a happy regard for a relic of Old Madras, the Madras Government have
+recently undertaken the task of preserving the ruin, which they have
+officially declared an 'historic memorial.'
+
+The 'Wall of Madras' is worthy of a meditative visit, but, in order
+that the meditation may be on an historic basis, it is necessary to
+know something about the Wall itself.
+
+We have seen that when the Company established themselves at Madras,
+in 1639, they first built a small fort for the protection of
+themselves and their goods. Around the walls of the Fort a number of
+Christians--English and Portuguese and Eurasians--settled down, and
+what was called 'White Town' came into being. Within a term of years
+this White Town was itself enclosed within fortified walls, which were
+finally identical with the wall round Fort St. George to-day. There
+was thus 'a fort within a fort;' but in course of time the inner wall
+was pulled down.
+
+Immediately outside the northern wall of White Town lay Black Town,
+inhabited by Indians--employees and purveyors of the Company, as well
+as merchants, shop-keepers, industrialists, and the rest. It should be
+borne in mind that the site of this original Black Town was
+altogether different from the site of the later Black Town, the
+'Georgetown' of to-day. Old Black Town, as already explained, extended
+from the northern wall of the Fort to what is now called the Esplanade
+Road, and it covered the ground that is now taken up by the Wireless
+Telegraph enclosure, the grounds of the High Court, and those of the
+Law College (_vide_ map, p. 10).
+
+Black Town was at first without any wall, and, as the times were
+unsettled, the place was exposed to the serious danger of being raided
+by any adventurous band of marauders. Very soon, however, a beginning
+was made of enclosing the town with a mud wall; and in the reign of
+Queen Anne a wall was built with masonry. Meanwhile, moreover,
+numerous houses and streets had sprung up outside the wall, on the
+site of the Georgetown of to-day.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL]
+
+In 1746 the French captured Fort St. George; and they destroyed not
+only the Black Town Wall but also Black Town itself. It was a
+disastrous episode in the history of Madras. For six years the English
+and the French had been at war in Europe, and the relations between
+the English and French colonists in India were naturally strained; but
+they were settlers within the dominions of Indian rulers, and,
+although both the English and the French had ships and soldiers for
+the protection of their settlements, they realized that they were not
+at liberty to make war upon each other. The settlers, moreover, were
+employees of mercantile companies, working for dividends; and war,
+with its calamitous expenditure, was not within their design. But
+Dupleix, the talented French Governor of Pondicherry, had ambitious
+ideas for the extension of French influence in India, and, in defiance
+of Indian rulers, war broke out. In the beginning there were several
+engagements at sea between a French squadron under Labourdonnais and
+an English squadron under Captain Peyton. The English squadron was
+worsted, and had to put into Trincomalee Harbour, in Ceylon, to refit.
+Thereupon Labourdonnais, after making quick preparations at
+Pondicherry, sailed for Madras; and the alarm in the Fort and in the
+city must have been great when his ships appeared off the coast and
+proceeded to bombard the settlement. His guns, however, did but little
+damage, and the citizens woke up the next morning to find, to their
+great content, that the enemy had sailed away during the night.
+Meanwhile Captain Peyton, having repaired his ships, was unaware of
+what had happened at Madras, and sailed from Ceylon to Bengal, without
+touching at Fort St. George. Possibly he was lured to Bengal by bogus
+messages of French origin; for, as soon as he was out of the way,
+Labourdonnais reappeared off Madras, better prepared than before.
+Having succeeded in landing a considerable force, he erected batteries
+on shore and from various points he bombarded White Town, which was
+now the actual Fort St. George. At the end of an unhappy seven days
+the garrison capitulated. The French marched into the Fort, and all
+the English residents, civil and military--including the Governor and
+the Members of Council, and also Robert Clive, who was then a young
+clerk--were sent to Pondicherry as prisoners of war.
+
+For nearly three years the French flag flew over Fort St. George,
+until, in accordance with the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, made between
+the combatants in Europe, Madras was restored to the Company.
+
+[Illustration: CENTRAL GATE OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL]
+
+During their occupation the French had made great changes. Feeling the
+necessity of strengthening their position, their military commanders
+realized what had apparently not been recognized by the Company's
+employees, untrained in war--namely that a weak-walled native town
+lying right against the northern wall of Fort St. George was a
+serious danger. The houses offered convenient cover for any enemies
+that might attack the Fort; and, moreover, any disaffected or venal
+townsman was in a position to give the assailants valuable help. The
+French Governor set himself, therefore, to the deliberate destruction
+of Black Town. He first destroyed the Town Wall, and then--for a
+distance of 400 yards from the northern wall of White Town, or the
+present Fort St. George--he demolished every house. The area that is
+now represented by the Wireless Telegraph Station and the grounds of
+the High Court thus became an open space. Meanwhile they constructed a
+moat and glacis round the walls of White Town, which, with certain
+alterations, are the moat and glacis of Fort St. George to-day.
+
+The Records express the melancholy interest with which the Company's
+employees, when they re-entered Madras, took note of the changes that the
+enemy had made in the familiar settlement. The Councillors apparently
+conceived that it was in a wanton spirit of destruction that the greater
+part of Black Town had been wiped out; for they formally decided that the
+streets that had been destroyed should be rebuilt. It may be supposed
+however, that their military advisers counselled them otherwise; for, so
+far from the old houses being rebuilt, those that had been left standing
+were destroyed. The open space was allowed to remain; and 'New Black
+Town'--the modern 'Georgetown'--began to be developed. It continued to be
+called 'Black Town' until the visit of the Prince of Wales (afterwards King
+George V) to Madras in 1906 when it was formally re-named
+'Georgetown'--ostensibly in Prince George's honour, but in reality to meet
+the wishes of a number of the residents who sought an opportunity of
+getting rid of what they regarded--quite reasonably--as an objectionable
+name for the locality in which their lot was cast. The disappearance of the
+historic name is a matter for historic regret, but a concession had to be
+made to the intelligible wishes of residents.
+
+[Illustration: A MAGAZINE IN THE BLACK TOWN WALL]
+
+The Company, bearing in mind that the French had been able to capture
+Madras, realized that it was necessary to strengthen the defences of
+Fort St. George and also to provide adequate protection for the new
+native city that had grown up outside the Fort's protective walls and
+was absolutely without defence. The defences of the Fort were taken in
+hand at once, though the work was by no means completed; and the
+Directors in England readily sanctioned the construction of a wall
+round New Black Town. It was well that the security of the Fort was
+looked to without any long delay; for in 1758, a large French army
+under Count Lally besieged the Fort again--but so unsuccessfully that,
+after sixty-seven days of persistent endeavour, they beat a sudden
+retreat. It was a good many years, however, before the building of
+the wall round Black Town was taken seriously in hand--and then only
+because the Company had been given a succession of sharp warnings that
+it was absolutely necessary that new Black Town should be protected.
+
+The French themselves had given the first warning during the siege
+under Count Lally; for, although they were powerless against the Fort,
+they were able to enter Black Town without opposition, and they made
+use of some of the houses for the purpose of the siege. The next
+warning was given a few years later when Tipu, the son of Haidar Ali,
+Sultan of Mysore, after ravaging the country round Madras, came so
+near to the city itself that parties of his horsemen were scampering
+about in the suburb of Chintadripet. Tipu's raid induced the Company
+to bring forth the approved but long-shelved plans for a wall round
+Black Town; but there was still much more discussion than work. The
+Company needed yet another awakening; and they got a stern one two
+years later. We quote the story from the Company's official records,
+published by the Madras Government. It is contained in a minute in the
+official Diary of Fort St. George, dated the 29th of March, 1769,
+which runs as follows:--
+
+     About 8 o'Clock this morning several Parties of the Enemy's
+     (Haidar Ali's) horse appeared in the Bounds of this Place at
+     St. Thomé and Egmore, from which latter place some guns were
+     fired at them.... At eleven o'Clock a fellow was caught
+     plundering at Triplicane and brought into Town, who gave
+     Intelligence that Hyder himself was on the other side of St.
+     Thomé with the greatest part of his horse. In the afternoon
+     Advice came that the Enemy's horse were moving from St.
+     Thomé round to the Northward with a design, as was supposed,
+     to make an attempt on the Black Town.
+
+It would have been difficult to have defended the unwalled town; and
+on the following day the Council of Fort St. George sent Mr. DuPre,
+Chief Councillor and succeeding Governor, to Haidar Ali's camp, on
+the other side of the Marmalong Bridge, to come to terms with the
+invader; and within three days a treaty had been made. The treaty,
+said Mr. DuPre, writing to a friend, "will do us no honor: yet it was
+necessary, and there was no alternative but that or worse."
+
+After this humiliation the building of the Wall was regarded as a
+pressing necessity; and within a year the work was practically
+finished.
+
+[Illustration: 'THE OLD AND THE NEW'
+
+Corner of the Medical School built into a portion of the Black Town
+Wall.]
+
+It was well indeed that the work was done; for a few years afterwards,
+on the 10th of August, 1780, Haidar's cavalry raided San Thomé and
+Triplicane, killing a number of people; and the terror in Black Town
+was so great that crowds of the inhabitants took flight. Fortunately,
+however, the Governor was able to issue the following notification for
+the reassurance of the public:--'A sufficient number of guns have been
+mounted on the Black Town wall,' and 'nothing has been omitted that I
+can think of for the security of the Black Town.' Haidar was not
+sufficiently venturesome to attack the fortified town; but the terror
+of the inhabitants was by no means at an end; for a little later came
+the disastrous news that a British force sent out to meet the invader
+had been cut to pieces at Conjeevaram. Eventually, however, the
+Mysoreans were defeated, and the treaty of peace was a triumph for the
+Company.
+
+The long delay in the building of the Wall was chiefly due to the fact
+that the representatives of the Company, being commercial men,
+naturally gave their chief attention to the Company's mercantile
+business, and were apt to disregard the immediate necessity of
+expensive schemes which the Company's military officers put forward as
+strategic requirements. When the Wall was first talked about, after
+the recovery of Madras from the French, the Directors in England, who
+always kept a tight hand on the Company's purse-strings, declared that
+the inhabitants of Black Town ought to be made to pay for the cost of
+their own defences, and should be taxed accordingly; and the name of
+the 'Wall Tax Road,' which runs alongside the Central Station to the
+Salt Cotaurs, is a standing reminder of the Directors' decree, while
+the road itself is an indication of the alignment of the western wall.
+The people protested indignantly against being taxed for the purpose,
+and, as a matter of fact, the representatives of the Company in India
+doubted whether they would be within their legal rights in compelling
+them to pay; and the tax was never actually levied. What with the Wall
+Tax Road on the west and the seashore on the east, the existing
+remains on the north, and the Esplanade on the south, it is not
+difficult to form a general idea of the direction of the four sides of
+the wall within which the later Black Town was enclosed.
+
+Such is the story of 'The Wall;' and the remains are an interesting
+relic of lawless times when at any minute it was possible that crowds
+of terror-stricken folk would suddenly be pouring through the
+gateways of the city at the alarming news that strange horsemen were
+dashing here and there in one or another of the suburbs, demanding
+money and jewels from the people and slaughtering unhappy individuals
+who tried to evade a response.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+EXPANSION
+
+
+We have seen that the Company were careful to develop both White Town
+and Black Town. They were not content, however, with mere
+developments, for they took pains also to extend their territorial
+possessions.
+
+The strip of land that was acquired by Mr. Francis Day was not large.
+Roughly, it extended along the seashore from the mouth of the Cooum to
+an undefined point beyond the present harbour, somewhere in the
+neighbourhood of Cassimode, and inland as far as what was called the
+North River, which is now represented by Cochrane's Canal--the canal
+that runs between the Central Station and the People's Park. It will
+be interesting to note how some of the various other parts of the
+present city came into the Company's possession.
+
+[Illustration: MADRAS (APPROXIMATELY)]
+
+On several occasions the representatives of various dynasties that
+were successively supreme over Madras made grants of additional land
+to the Company. The village of Triplicane was the first
+addition,----some twenty years after the acquisition of Madras. The
+village was granted by the representative of the Mohammedan King of
+Golconda, for an annual rent of Rs. 175, which ceased to be paid when
+the Golconda dynasty shortly afterwards came to an end. Later, in
+compliance with a petition by Governor Elihu Yale to the Emperor
+Aurangzeb, the Company received a free grant of 'Tandore (Tondiarpet),
+Persewacca (Pursewaukam), and Yegmore (Egmore).' Still later, in the
+reign of Aurangzeb's son and successor, the village of Lungambacca
+(Nungumbaukam), now the principal residential district of Europeans in
+Madras, was granted to the Company, together with four adjoining
+villages, for a total annual rent of 1,500 pagodas (say Rs. 5,250).
+The Emperor's officers argued that the rent ought to have been larger,
+but the Company, conforming to the spirit of corruption that was in
+fashion, were wily enough to send by a Brahman and a Mohammedan
+conjointly a sum of Rs. 700 'to be distributed amongst the King's
+officers who keep the Records, in order to settle this matter.' The
+village of Vepery--variously called in olden documents Ipere, Ypere,
+Vipery, and Vapery--lay between Egmore and Pursewaukam; and the
+Company, being naturally desirous of consolidating their territory,
+proceeded at once to try to obtain a grant of the place; but
+successive efforts on the part of Governor Elihu Yale came to naught;
+and it was not till much later (1742) when the Nawab of Arcot was lord
+of the soil, that Vepery was acquired from the Nawab. The manner of
+its acquisition is interesting. The preceding Nawab had just been
+murdered, and the Carnatic army disowning the ambitious rival who had
+murdered him, proclaimed the dead Nawab's son as his successor. The
+new Nawab was but a youth, and he was residing at the time in one of
+the big houses in Black Town. The Company were politic enough to
+celebrate the lad's accession with grand doings. They escorted him in
+a splendid procession to the Company's Gardens, which were situated
+along the bank of the river Cooum, where the General Hospital and the
+Medical College now stand. In the Gardens there was a fine house,
+containing a spacious hall, which the Company had specially designed
+for great occasions; and there the lad's accession was formally
+announced; and finally he was escorted in procession back to his
+dwelling. The Company profited by their politic demonstration; for, in
+return for their courtesies to the young Nawab, the lad gratified
+their desires by making them a rent-free grant of the village of
+Vepery, and also of Perambore and other lands. It may be added that
+the boy-king was unfortunate; for he was murdered within two years of
+his accession, at the instance of the man who had murdered his father.
+
+San Thomé was acquired in 1749; and the story of the acquisition is
+not without interest. The names 'San Thomé' and 'Mylapore' are often
+used as alternative designations for one and the same locality; but in
+bygone days the two names represented quite different places. Mylapore
+was a very ancient Indian town, which seems to have been in existence
+long before the birth of Christ. San Thomé was a seventeenth century
+Portuguese settlement close by. It is an old tradition that St. Thomas
+the Apostle was martyred just outside Mylapore; and when the
+Portuguese first came to India some of them visited Mylapore to look
+for relics of the saint. They found some ruined Christian churches,
+and also a tomb which they believed to be the tomb of St. Thomas; and
+soon afterwards a Portuguese monastery was established on the spot. A
+Portuguese town grew up around the monastery; and in course of time
+the town became a commercial centre, and was surrounded with a
+fortified wall, and was the Portuguese settlement of San Thomé, over
+against the Indian town of Mylapore. An Italian dealer in precious
+stones who visited India in the sixteenth century wrote of San Thomé
+that it was 'as fair a city' as any that he had seen in the land; and
+he described Mylapore as being an Indian city surrounded by its own
+mud wall. Mylapore was thus in effect the Black Town of San Thomé; but
+in later days the two towns were combined. When the English came to
+Fort St. George, the power of the Portuguese was already waning; and
+the development of the influence of the English at Madras meant a
+further lessening of the influence of the Portuguese at San Thomé;
+and it was a natural consequence that San Thomé, including Mylapore,
+became a prey to successive assailants. Its first captor was the lord
+of the soil, the Mohammedan King of Golconda. Next, the French took it
+from Golconda; and two years later Golconda, with the help of the
+Dutch, recaptured it from the French. The Dutch were content with a
+share of the plunder for their reward, and left Golconda in
+possession. On the self-interested advice of the English at Fort St.
+George, Golconda destroyed the fortifications. He then put the town up
+for sale. The Company were prepared to buy it, and so were the
+Portuguese; but a rich Mohammedan named Cassa Verona found favour with
+Golconda's Moslem officials, and secured the town on a short lease.
+Next it was leased to the Hindu Governor of Poonamallee; and then for
+a big price it went back again to the Portuguese. Towards the end of
+the seventeenth century the great Moghul Emperor Aurangzeb dethroned
+the lord of the soil, the King of Golconda; and, although the
+Portuguese were not turned out of San Thomé, it was now a part of the
+Moghul Empire, and was put in charge of a Moslem ruler. After
+Aurangzeb's death, the Moghul Empire broke up, and the Nawab of Arcot
+eventually became independent, and San Thomé was part of his
+dominions. In 1749, when Madras, after the French occupation, was
+restored to the English by an order from Paris, in accordance with the
+treaty of Aix la Chapelle, Dupleix at Pondicherry was bitterly
+disappointed at the rendition, and he formed designs for the
+acquisition of San Thomé for France, as a set-off for the loss of
+Madras. The English at Fort St. George had information of his schemes,
+and, being in no way desirous of having aggressive Frenchmen for close
+neighbours, they forestalled Dupleix by persuading the Nawab to make
+the Company a grant of 'Mylapore, _alias_ St. Thomé,' on condition
+that the Company should undertake to help the Nawab with men and
+money whenever he should call upon them to do so. It was thus that San
+Thomé became a British possession; and, although it was afterwards
+ravaged successively by the French under Count Lally and by Haidar Ali
+of Mysore, it has remained a British possession ever since.
+
+We have said enough to show the manner in which the different parts of
+the modern city of Madras came into the hands of the English. The
+methods were not always wholly admirable; but we must remember that
+the East India Company was a mercantile association, fighting for its
+existence under diamond-cut-diamond conditions; and we must remember
+also that, although its representatives at Madras were sent out to
+India not to rule but to earn dividends for the shareholders, yet the
+Company's rule over Madras was so upright that crowds of people were
+continually flocking into Madras to enjoy its benefits.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+OUTPOSTS
+
+
+The suburban lands which were successively granted to the Company were
+not protected either by the walls of Fort St. George or by the walls
+of Black Town, and it was accordingly necessary that special means
+should be adopted for their defence. The Company's military engineers
+devised the erection of small suburban forts ('redoubts'),
+block-houses, and batteries, which were to be mounted with cannon and
+to be in charge of an appropriate garrison, and were to serve as
+outposts for the protection of the outlying quarters of the city.
+
+On the northern side of Black Town the batteries and block-houses were
+linked together by a thick-set hedge of palmyras, bamboos,
+prickly-pear, and thorny bushes, such that neither infantry nor
+cavalry could force a way through. Later it was decreed that the
+'Bound Hedge,' as it was called, should be extended so as to encircle
+the whole city. The work, however, was never completed, for as late as
+1785 an influential European inhabitant of Madras, addressing the
+Government on the subject of the insecurity of the city, wrote:--
+
+     "Was the Bound Hedge finished, no man could desert. No Spy
+     could pass; provisions would be cheap. All the Garden
+     Houses, as well as thirty-three Square Miles of Ground,
+     would be in security from the invasions of irregular Horse."
+
+Of the suburban fortifications the two largest were at Egmore and at
+San Thomé. Next in size were those at Nungumbaukam and at Pursewaukam.
+Of smaller works there were many. Of the fortifications at
+Nungumbaukam and at Pursewaukam all traces have disappeared; but of
+the larger ones at San Thomé and at Egmore interesting remains are
+still to be seen.
+
+[Illustration: San Thomé Fort.
+
+A PORTION OF THE EXTENSIVE RUINS IN THE GROUNDS OF 'LEITH CASTLE,' SAN
+THOME]
+
+The remains of the San Thomé Redoubt stand within the grounds of
+'Leith Castle,' a house that lies south of the San Thomé Cathedral.
+The remains are ruins, but the massive walls fifteen feet high and
+three feet thick, are suggestive of the purpose for which the redoubt
+was built. The 'Records' show that the San Thomé Redoubt, built in
+1751, was a very complete fortification, with a moat forty feet wide,
+a glacis, and all the other works that are usual in respect of a well
+appointed building of the kind. That it was of a large size is to be
+seen in the fact that, when the French under Count Lally were
+besieging Madras, an English officer was officially directed 'to stay
+in St. Thomé Fort with the Europeans belonging to Chingleput, four
+Companies of sepoys, and fifty horse.'
+
+The Egmore Redoubt was a good deal older than that of San Thomé. It
+was constructed in the days of Queen Anne. It was intended, of course,
+for the special protection of Egmore; but in those distant days when
+trips to the hills were unknown, even Egmore was a health-resort in
+respect of the crowded Fort St. George, and it was officially reported
+that the Egmore Redoubt might 'serve for a convenience for the sick
+Soldiers when arrived from England, for the recovery of their health,
+it being a good air.' The Egmore Redoubt was evidently a need; for the
+'Records' tell us that on various occasions its guns were fired at the
+enemy. The enemy were for the most part horsemen of Haidar Ali or of
+Tipu, his son and successor; and in 1799 the year in which Tipu was
+killed, the need for the Redoubt disappeared. Adjoining the precincts
+of the Redoubt were the premises of the Male Asylum, an Anglo-Indian
+Orphanage, which required to be extended, and in the following year
+the Madras Government gave the Redoubt to the Asylum, and the two
+premises were turned into a common enclosure. In the beginning of the
+present century the Directors of the Asylum sold their Egmore estate
+to the South Indian Railway Company and removed to new premises in the
+Poonamallee road; and what remains of the Egmore Redoubt is now the
+habitation of some of the Railway employees.
+
+[Illustration: THE EGMORE FORT (SIDE VIEW)]
+
+The remains are of quaint interest. At some date or another the
+authorities of the Asylum had an upper story added to one of the
+military buildings, with the result that there is the strange
+spectacle of a row of windowed chambers on the top of a buttressed and
+battlemented wall, windowless and grim. The upper story has been built
+into the battlements in such a manner that the outline of the
+battlements is still clearly visible, and the building is a composite
+reminder of old-time war and latter-day peace. The whole of the
+lower part of the building, with its massive walls and its frowning
+aspect, is of curious and suggestive interest; and the ground around,
+which is extensively bricked, is a reminder of the fact that the
+Redoubt in its original form was large indeed. The place provides
+interesting material for antiquarian speculation.
+
+[Illustration: REMAINS OF THE EGMORE FORT.
+
+_The building is in the Male Asylum Road, and is now the residence of
+some railway employees. Its upper part has been built upon a
+battlemented wall, and doors have been let into the wall. The outlines
+of the original wall and of some of the battlements can be easily
+traced._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE CHURCH IN THE FORT
+
+
+St. Mary's Church within the walls of Fort St. George is the oldest
+Protestant church in India, and, except for some of the oldest bits of
+the Fort walls, it is the oldest British building in Madras city, and
+even in India itself. It dates from 1680.
+
+When Madras was rising upon its foundations, the Company's employees
+were not only without a church but also without a pastor; for the
+Company did not think it necessary to go to the expense of providing a
+chaplain for so small a community. But it was an age in which
+religious services on Sunday were seldom neglected; and it may be
+conceived that, in default of a chaplain at Fort St. George, the
+Governor himself or his delegate read the Church Service on Sunday
+morning and evening, in the hearing of the assembled employees of the
+Company, and perhaps also some selections from the published sermons
+of distinguished Elizabethan divines.
+
+In the Portuguese settlement of San Thomé there were numerous Roman
+Catholic priests, and some of them ministered to the numerous
+Portuguese and other Roman Catholic residents of White Town around
+Fort St. George, as also of Black Town close by. So numerous indeed
+were the Roman Catholic residents of White Town within three years of
+the foundation of the Fort that the Governor permitted a French priest
+to build a chapel in the Town. It was thus not a little anomalous that
+in a British settlement, founded under the auspices of such a
+redoubted antipapist as Queen Elizabeth, there was a Roman Catholic
+church with a priest in charge, yet neither a church nor a pastor of
+the established religion.
+
+In 1645, however, the Company's Agent at Fort St. George forwarded to
+higher authority "a petition from the souldiers for the desireing of a
+minister to be here with them for the maintainance of their soules
+health;" and in the following year a chaplain was sent out. There was
+still no Protestant church, but the celebration of religious services
+was held in careful regard; for the chaplain read morning and evening
+prayers every day of the year in a room in the Fort appointed for the
+purpose, and it was compulsory upon all the youthful employees of the
+Company to attend regularly, under the penalty of a fine.
+
+Chaplains came and chaplains went, and for some sixteen years they
+continued their ministrations in the room in the Fort. A small church
+was then built; but, with the Company's developing trade, the
+population of White Town increased so rapidly that before long the
+little church was too small for the number of the worshippers. When
+Mr. Streynsham Master, after a long term of years in the Company's
+service, was appointed Governor of Madras, one of his first acts was
+the circulation of a voluntary subscription paper for the building of
+a church that should be worthy of the Company's rapidly developing
+South Indian possession. He headed the list with a subscription of a
+hundred pagodas (Rs. 350), a sum which represented much more than it
+does now; for it was more than Mr. Streynsham Master's pay for a whole
+month as Governor of Madras. Subscriptions from the Councillors, as
+well as from the factors and writers and apprentices, were
+proportionately big; and on the 28th of October, 1680, St. Mary's
+Church was solemnly opened, and the guns of the Fort roared forth loud
+volleys in honour of the event. The steeple and the sanctuary were
+added later; but, for the rest, the present church, except for
+details, is the very same church that was built some two hundred and
+fifty years ago, in the reign of Charles II.
+
+[Illustration: ST. MARY'S, FORT ST. GEORGE.]
+
+It is interesting to note that the church at Madras was built during a
+period when in London a great many churches were being built--or
+rebuilt--after the Great Fire. Church-building was in vogue, with the
+distinguished Sir Christopher Wren as the builder in chief; and it is
+not unlikely that what was being done so energetically in London was
+one of the influences that inspired Mr. Streynsham Master to be so
+earnest over a scheme for building a church in Madras. It may be
+noted, moreover, that St. Mary's Church within the Fort at Madras is
+of a style that was very much in fashion in London at the time.
+
+In deciding to build a new church, the Governor and his colleagues
+realized that if ever the Fort should be bombarded, a shot from the
+enemy's guns was as likely to fall upon the church as upon a fortified
+bastion; so the roof of the church was made 'bomb-proof,' in
+preparation for possibilities. Events proved the reasonableness of the
+measure; for on more than one occasion the church was a factor in war.
+
+In 1746, when the French were besieging Fort St. George, the British
+defenders lodged their wives and children and their domestic servants
+in the bomb-proof church, and they took refuge there themselves in the
+intervals of military duty. During the three years that they occupied
+Madras, the French, fearing that they might be besieged in their turn,
+used the bomb-proof church as a storehouse for grain and as a
+reservoir for drinking-water. The church organ they sent off to
+Pondicherry as one of the spoils of war.
+
+At the end of the war Madras was restored to the Company, but a few
+years later the Fort was besieged by the French again. During the
+interval, some of the houses had been made bomb-proof, and in these
+the women and children were lodged, but St. Mary's Church was used as
+a barrack, and its steeple as a watch-tower. Lally, the French
+commander, failing to capture Madras, had to march away with his hopes
+baffled; but, notwithstanding its bomb-proof roof, the church, as also
+its steeple, had been badly damaged during the destructive siege, and
+the necessary repairs were considerable.
+
+A few years later the English had their revenge. They captured
+Pondicherry, and they destroyed its fortifications. They recovered,
+with other things, the organ that had been looted from St. Mary's;
+but, as a new one had in the meanwhile been obtained for St. Mary's,
+the recovered instrument was sent to a church up-country. According
+to accounts, moreover, they took toll for the Frenchmen's loot by
+sending to St. Mary's from one of the churches in Pondicherry the
+large and well-executed painting of the 'Last Supper,' which is still
+to be seen in the church. The origin of the picture is not known for
+certain; but it is believed with reason to be a fact that it was a
+spoil of war from Pondicherry on one or another of the three occasions
+on which that town was captured by the British.
+
+The stray visitor who wanders round St. Mary's without a guide is apt
+to be astonished at what he sees in the churchyard. A multitude of old
+tomb-stones, of various ages and with inscriptions in various tongues,
+lie flat on the ground, as close to one another as paving-stones, in
+such fashion that the visitor must wonder how there can be sufficient
+room for coffins below. As a matter of fact, the coffins and their
+contents are not there, and the inscriptions of 'Here lyeth' and 'Hic
+jacet' are not statements of facts. The explanation is an interesting
+story, which is worth the telling.
+
+In the Company's early days, the 'English Burying Place,' (_vide_ Map,
+p. 10) lay a little way outside the walls of White Town, in an area
+which is now occupied by the Madras Law College with its immediate
+precincts. Later, when a wall was built round old Black Town, the
+Burial Ground was included within the enclosure of the wall. An
+English cemetery in a corner of an Indian town was not likely to be
+treated with any particular respect; and on various counts the
+'English Burying Place' was a sadly neglected spot. Nearly every
+Englishman that died in Madras was an employee of the Company, and was
+a bachelor, without any relatives in India to mourn his loss. His
+colleagues gave him a grand funeral; but his death meant promotion for
+some of those selfsame colleagues, and his place in the Company's
+service was filled up by an official 'Order' on the following day. A
+big monument in the old-fashioned brick-and-mortar ugliness was
+piously built over his remains, and possibly there was genuine regret
+at a good fellow's loss; but water is less thick than blood, and there
+was no near one or dear one in India to take affectionate care of the
+big tomb; so it was left to itself to be taken care of by the people
+of Black Town. An unofficial description of Madras dated 1711 speaks
+of the 'stately Tombs' in the English cemetery, and an official Record
+of the same year speaks of the unhallowed uses to which the stately
+tombs were put. The Record says that "Excesses are Comitted on
+hallowed ground," and that the arcaded monuments were "turned into
+receptacles for Beggars and Buffaloes." We have seen in a previous
+chapter that the French, when they captured Madras, demolished the
+greater part of old Black Town together with its wall, and that the
+English, when they were back in Madras, completed the work of
+demolition. In the two-fold destruction, both French and English had
+sufficient respect for the dead to leave the tombs alone. But, now
+that Black Town was gone, the big tombs were the nearest buildings to
+the walls of White Town and Fort St. George; and when the French under
+Lally besieged Madras a few years later, they used the 'stately Tombs'
+as convenient cover for their attack on the city. The cemetery now was
+a receptacle not for beggars and buffaloes but for soldiers and guns.
+The siege lasted sixty-seven days, during which the cemetery was a
+vantage ground for successive French batteries. It is therefore not to
+be wondered at that when Count Lally had raised the unsuccessful
+siege, the authorities at Fort St. George decided that the 'stately
+tombs' were to disappear. The tombs themselves were accordingly
+destroyed, but the slabs that bore the inscriptions were laid in St.
+Mary's churchyard. At a later date some of them were taken up and were
+removed to the ramparts, for the extraordinary purpose of 'building
+platforms for the guns,'[2] but eventually they were restored to the
+churchyard and were relaid as we see them to-day.
+
+[Footnote 2: Rev. F. Penny's _Church in Madras_, vol. i, p. 366.]
+
+When the burying ground was dismantled, two of its monuments were
+allowed to remain. They are still to be seen on the Esplanade, outside
+the Law College, and the inscriptions can still be read; and the two
+tombs are interesting memorials of the past. One is a tall,
+steeple-like structure, which represents a woman's grief for her first
+husband, and for her child by her second. Her first husband was Joseph
+Hynmers, Senior Member of Council, who died in 1680, her second was
+Elihu Yale, Governor of Madras, whom she married six months after the
+death of her first. When her little son David died at the age of four,
+she had him buried in her first husband's grave. The other monument
+covers a vault which holds the remains of various members of the
+Powney family, a name which figured freely in the list of the
+Company's employees throughout the eighteenth century. When the
+cemetery was dismantled, members of the Powney family were still in
+the Madras service, and it was doubtless in respect for their feelings
+that the vault was not disturbed.
+
+It may be added that amongst the gravestones that pave the ground
+outside St. Mary's Church there are several that record the death of
+Roman Catholics. It is supposed that they were taken from the
+graveyard of the Roman Catholic church in White Town, which was
+demolished by the Company when they recovered Madras after the French
+occupation.
+
+Although the gravestones around St. Mary's Church bear the names of
+persons who were buried elsewhere, there are memorials within the
+church itself which mark the actual resting-place of mortal remains.
+Most of the monuments in St. Mary's are of historic interest, and
+it is fascinating indeed to stroll round the building and study
+
+     Storied urn or animated bust;
+
+but it is noteworthy that no inscription records the very first burial
+within the walls of the church. It is noteworthy too that the
+forgotten grave was not the grave of an obscure person, but of Lord
+Pigot, Governor of Madras; and, in view of the extraordinary
+circumstances of his death, the first burial is the most notable of
+all.
+
+George Pigot was sent out to Madras as a lad of eighteen, to take up
+the post of a writer in the Company's service. He worked so well that
+he rose rapidly, and at the early age of thirty-six he was appointed
+Governor of Madras. It was in the middle of his eight years'
+governorship that the French under Lally besieged Madras for
+sixty-five days; and Governor Pigot's untiring energy and skilful
+measures were prime factors in the successful defence. After the war
+he did great things for the development of Madras; and when he
+resigned office at the age of forty-five and went to England, the
+strenuous upholder of British honour in the East was rewarded with an
+Irish peerage. Well would it have been for Lord Pigot if he had
+settled down for good on his Irish estate! But twelve years later he
+accepted the offer of a second term of office as Governor of Madras.
+It is not infrequently the case that a man who has been eminently
+successful in office at one time of his career fails badly if after a
+long interval he accepts the same office again. Times have altered and
+methods that were successful before are now out of date. In Lord
+Pigot's case the conditions at the time of his second appointment were
+very different from those at the time of the first. On the first
+occasion he had risen to office with colleagues who had been his
+companions in the service. On the second occasion he was sent out to
+Madras as an elderly nobleman selected for the job, and as a stranger
+to his colleagues, who moreover were particularly given to factious
+disputes. It is not unlikely too that Lord Pigot himself had become
+touchy and overbearing in his declining years. Any way, he quarrelled
+with his Councillors almost immediately, and within six or seven
+months there had been some very angry scenes. He had been accustomed
+to being obeyed, and in his wrath at being obstinately resisted he
+went to the length of ordering the arrest not only of some of the
+leading members of Council but also of the Commander-in-Chief. The
+Councillors check-mated the Governor's order by arresting the
+Governor! It was a daring proceeding. He was arrested one night after
+dark, while driving along a suburban road on his imagined way to a
+friendly supper, and he was sent as a prisoner to a house at St.
+Thomas's Mount. He was in captivity for some nine months, while the
+triumphant Councillors were representing their case to the Directors
+in England; and then he died, in Government House, Madras, to which
+when he fell ill he had been transferred. It is on record that his
+remains were specially honoured with burial within St. Mary's
+Church--the first burial within the building--but no permanent
+memorial was raised to the unhappy Governor's memory; and the
+particular spot where he was buried is only a matter of conjecture.
+
+St. Mary's Church is less than 250 years old. Compared with hundreds
+of the grey-walled or ivy-covered churches in England, St. Mary's at
+Madras is prosaically new; but it is of exceeding interest
+nevertheless. Madras itself is a great and historic city, which owes
+its existence to British enterprise, with Indian co-operation, and St.
+Mary's Church, as the oldest British building therein, is the earliest
+milestone of progress. It is not a church that is best visited, like
+Melrose Abbey, 'in the pale moonlight,' but in the bright daylight,
+when the inscriptions on the tomb-stones without and on the monuments
+within can be clearly read.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+ROMAN CATHOLIC, MADRAS
+
+
+When the English first came to Madras, there were numerous Roman
+Catholic churches in the neighbouring Portuguese settlement of San
+Thomé, but there were none within the tract of land that Mr. Francis
+Day acquired in the Company's behalf. When, therefore, at the
+Company's invitation, a number of Portuguese from San Thomé, both
+pure-blooded and mixed, came and settled down in the Company's White
+Town, they were necessarily compelled to resort to the ministrations
+of Portuguese priests who belonged to the San Thomé Mission; and
+within a year of the foundation of Fort St. George, the Portuguese
+missionaries built a church in the outskirts of the British
+settlement. This was the Church of the Assumption, which stands in
+what is still called 'Portuguese Street' in Georgetown, and is
+therefore a building of historic note. To the Company's
+representatives the ministrations of Portuguese priests to residents
+of Madras were objectionable; for the relations between Madras and San
+Thomé were by no means friendly. It is true that when Mr. Francis Day
+was treating for the acquisition of a site, the Portuguese at Mylapore
+had furthered his efforts; but such a mark of apparent good will was
+no more than the outcome of Portuguese hostility to the Dutch; for
+they hoped that the English at Madras would be powerful allies with
+themselves against the aggressive Hollanders. As soon, however, as
+Madras had begun to be built and English trade to be actively pushed,
+jealousies arose and disagreements occurred; and the Company's
+representatives chafed at the idea that Portuguese priests should be
+the spiritual advisers of residents of Madras.
+
+In 1642, when Madras was in its third year, a certain Father Ephraim,
+a French Capuchin, chanced to set foot in Madras. Father Ephraim had
+been sent out from Paris as a missionary to Pegu; and he had travelled
+across India from Surat to Masulipatam, where, according to his
+instructions, he was to have secured a passage to Pegu in one of the
+Company's ships. His information was out of date; for the Agency had
+lately been transferred from Masulipatam to Madras, and the Company's
+ships for Pegu were sailing now from Madras instead of from
+Masulipatam; so Father Ephraim journeyed southward from Masulipatam to
+look for a vessel at the new settlement. At Madras no vessel was
+starting immediately, and Father Ephraim had to bide his time.
+Meanwhile he made himself useful by ministering to the Roman Catholics
+of the place. Official and other documents show that Father Ephraim
+was a very devout and a very able man. He was 'an earnest Christian,'
+'a polished linguist,' able to converse in English, Portuguese and
+Dutch, besides his own French, and he was conversant with Persian and
+Arabic. He had the charm of attractive friendliness, which is so
+common with Frenchmen, and he captivated all with whom he conversed.
+The Portuguese and other Roman Catholic inhabitants of Madras, to whom
+the Company's disapproval of the ministrations of Portuguese priests
+had been a frequent source of trouble, formally petitioned Father
+Ephraim to settle down in the city; and the Governor in Council,
+greatly preferring a French priest to a Portuguese and thoroughly
+approving of Father Ephraim personally, supported the petition with a
+formal order that, if the priest would stay, a site would be provided
+on which he might build a church for his flock. Father Ephraim himself
+was not unwilling to stay, but he was under orders for Pegu, and,
+furthermore, Madras was within the diocese of San Thomé, and the
+Bishop was not likely to approve of a scheme in which the
+ministrations of his own priests would be set at naught in favour of a
+stranger. The Company, however, was influential. A reference was made
+to Father Ephraim's Capuchin superiors in Paris, and they approved of
+his remaining in Madras; another reference was made to Rome, asking
+that the British territory of Madras should be ecclesiastically
+separated from the Portuguese diocese of Mylapore, and the Pope issued
+a decree to that effect.
+
+A site for a church, as also for a priest's house, was provided in
+White Town, within the Fort St. George of to-day, and a small church,
+dedicated to St. Andrew, was built; and for a good many years it was
+the only church of any kind in the settlement.
+
+The Portuguese ecclesiastics of Mylapore were never reconciled to this
+ecclesiastical separation of Madras, and when Father Ephraim went by
+invitation to Mylapore to discuss certain ecclesiastical business, he
+was forthwith arrested, clapped in irons, and shipped off to Goa and
+lodged in the prison of the Inquisition. The Governor of Fort St.
+George took the matter in hand, but Father Ephraim was in prison more
+than two years before he was eventually released and sent back to
+Madras.
+
+Later, Father Ephraim rebuilt St. Andrew's Church on a larger plan,
+and the building was opened with ceremony; and Master Patrick Warner,
+the Company's Protestant Chaplain at Fort St. George, complained
+indignantly to the Directors in England that Governor Langhorn had
+celebrated the popish occasion with the 'firing of great guns' and
+with 'volleys of small shot by all the soldiers in garrison.'
+
+Father Ephraim had already built a church in old Black Town, which
+seems to have stood somewhere within what is now the site of the High
+Court. Another French Capuchin had meanwhile come to Madras to help
+him in his ministrations to his ever-increasing flock; so the church
+in Black Town had its regular pastor.
+
+After more than fifty years of self-sacrificing work in Madras, Father
+Ephraim died of old age, sincerely esteemed by all who knew him.
+
+Some years after his death St. Andrew's was again rebuilt, and it was
+now a large edifice, with a high bell-tower, and a small churchyard
+around. In the suburban district of Muthialpet there was also a
+'Portuguese Burying Place,' which is now the 'compound' of the Roman
+Catholic Cathedral and its associated buildings in Armenian Street;
+and a small church stood within this enclosure. Adjoining the
+Portuguese Burying Place was the 'Armenian Burying Place,' which is
+now the enclosure of the Armenian church; and it was the Armenian
+Burying Place that gave the name to the street.
+
+When Madras was captured by the French, there were people who said
+that the French priests in Madras had given information to their
+countrymen; and three years later, when Madras was restored to the
+Company, the Governor in Council confiscated St. Andrew's church. A
+reference to the Directors in England as to what they were to do with
+the confiscated building brought back the very decisive reply that
+they were "immediately on the receipt of this, without fail to
+demolish the Portuguese Church in the White Town at Madras, and not
+suffer it to stand." The church was demolished accordingly, as also a
+Roman Catholic chapel in Vepery. The church in old Black Town had
+already been demolished by the French when they destroyed the greater
+part of old Black Town itself; and, in accordance with another edict
+of the Directors in England, by which the Company's representatives in
+Madras were "absolutely forbid suffering any Romish Church within the
+bounds, or even to suffer the public profession of the Romish
+religion," Roman Catholicism was altogether scouted in Madras.
+
+Twenty-five years later, the English troops, after defeating the
+French in various engagements, captured Pondicherry and demolished its
+fortifications; and the peace of Paris left the French in India
+powerless. With the danger of French aggression removed for good, the
+Company were less intolerant of the religion which Frenchmen
+professed; and a few years later they paid the Capuchin priests some
+Rs. 50,000 as compensation for the destruction of the church in White
+Town and of the chapel in Vepery.
+
+With funds thus in their hands, the Capuchin fathers set about
+building a new church in the 'Burying Place.' This new church, which
+they built in 1775, was the edifice which is now the Roman Catholic
+Cathedral in Armenian Street. On the gate-posts appears the date 1642,
+but this was the year in which the Company made a grant of the land
+for a Roman Catholic Cemetery and in which Father Ephraim arrived and
+the Madras Mission began, and is not the date of the building of the
+present church or of its predecessor. The Capuchin missionaries
+continued in charge of Roman Catholic affairs in Madras until 1832, in
+which year they were put under episcopal jurisdiction.
+
+Reference has been made in this chapter and elsewhere to the churches
+that were already in existence in Mylapore when the English first
+settled in Madras. According to local tradition, the Apostle St.
+Thomas made his way to the East, and, after preaching in various parts
+of India, settled down in the ancient Hindu town of Mylapore, where he
+made numerous converts. The Hindu priests, indignant at the loss of so
+many of their clients, sought the missionary's life. The Apostle,
+according to the tradition, lived in a small cave on a small hill--the
+'Little Mount'--fed by birds and drinking the water of a spring that
+bubbled up miraculously within the cave. Driven from the cave, he
+fled to another hill, a mile or so away--'St. Thomas's Mount'--where
+he was killed with a lance. The dead body was buried at Mylapore. Such
+is the story; and in the present-day church on the Little Mount the
+visitor is shown a cave which is said to have been the Apostle's
+hiding-place; and within the nave of the cathedral at Mylapore he is
+shown a hole in the ground--now lined with marble--in which the
+Martyr's remains are said to have been buried.
+
+When the Portuguese came to Mylapore in the early part of the
+sixteenth century, they built a church upon the ruins of an ancient
+church that had enclosed the tomb; and the new church became
+eventually the Cathedral of San Thomé. The sixteenth century building
+was pulled down in 1893, and the present Cathedral--a handsome Gothic
+structure--was built. Mylapore is now a suburb of Madras, and is
+within British dominion; but the bishopric, which was originally
+supported by the King of Portugal, who had the right of nominating the
+bishop, is still supported by the Portuguese Government.
+
+Mylapore has a history of its own that is outside the scope of the
+'Story of Madras;' but a few words about the glories of a city that is
+now a suburb of Madras will not be out of place.
+
+Mylapore and Madras, standing side by side, are a conjunction of the
+old and the young. Mylapore, or Meliapore, the 'Peacock City' of the
+ancient Hindu world, has existed for twenty centuries, and perhaps a
+great many more; Madras has existed less than three. It was at
+Mylapore that, according to tradition, the body of the martyred
+Apostle St. Thomas was buried; Mylapore was the birth-place of
+Tiruvalluvar, an old and illustrious Tamil author who belonged to the
+down-trodden class, and of Peyalvar, an eminent Vaishnavite saint and
+writer; it was here that a company of Saivaite saints, Appar and his
+fellows, assembled together and wrote their well-known hymns; and it
+was here also that Mastan, a renowned Mohammedan scholar, lived and
+wrote and died.
+
+Of the ancient glories of Mylapore no vestige remains; but several of
+the churches of the Mylapore diocese belong to the sixteenth century,
+including the celebrated 'Luz' Church, the Church of the Madre-de-Deus
+at San Thomé and the little Church of Our Lady of Refuge between
+Mylapore and Saidapet, besides the churches at the Little Mount and
+St. Thomas's Mount, of which the latter is a sixteenth-century
+development of an old chapel that existed there before the coming of
+the Portuguese.
+
+It is of interest to note that there are those who say that a Mylapore
+church gave its name to the city of Madras. They say--not, I believe,
+without evidence--that the rural village of Madraspatam, where Mr.
+Francis Day selected a site for the Company's settlement, had been
+colonized by fisherfolk from the parish of the Madre-de-Deus
+Church--the Church of the Mother of God--and that the emigrant
+fisherfolk called their village by the name of their parish, and that
+the name was eventually corrupted into 'Madras.' The origin of the
+name 'Madras' is uncertain; and the explanation is at any rate
+interesting and not unlikely to be true.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+CHEPAUK PALACE
+
+
+Among the interesting buildings in Madras must be included Chepauk
+Palace, which was built about a century and a half ago as a residence
+for the Nawab of the Carnatic, and which is now the office of the
+Board of Revenue. The high wall that enclosed the spacious Saracenic
+structure in its palace days has been pulled down, and the public can
+now gaze at a building that was once carefully screened from the
+public eye, and can enter at will without having to satisfy the
+scrutiny of armed men at the gate. A change indeed--from the sleepy
+residence of a Muhammadan ruler, with his harem and his idle crowd of
+retainers, to bustling offices where a multitude of officials and
+clerks are working out the cash accounts of the Government of Madras!
+
+The 'Carnatic' was a dominion that extended over the territory that is
+now included in the Collectorates of Nellore, North Arcot, South
+Arcot, Trichinopoly, and Tinnevelly. The town of Arcot was the capital
+of the dominion, and the Nawab of the Carnatic was sometimes spoken of
+as the Nawab of Arcot. Chepauk Palace belongs to the history of the
+Carnatic, and a few historical notes will make things clear.
+
+In our first chapter we intimated that Madras, when Mr. Francis Day
+acquired it, was within the domain of the disappearing Hindu Empire of
+Vijianagar, of which the living representative at the time was the
+Raja of Chandragiri, from whom Mr. Francis Day accordingly obtained a
+deed of possession. Seven years afterwards, the Raja of Chandragiri
+was a refugee in Mysore, driven from his throne by the Muhammadan
+Sultan of Golconda, who assumed the sovereignty of Hyderabad and the
+Carnatic. The Sultan of Golconda thus became the recognized overlord
+of Madras; and the Company were careful to secure from their new
+sovereign a confirmation of their possession. But the power of the
+Sultan was destined to fall in its turn; for Aurangzeb, the Moghul
+Emperor at Delhi, being desirous of uniting all India under Moghul
+rule, waged war against the Sultan of Golconda--who, as a Shiah
+Mohammedan, was a heretic in Aurangzeb's eyes--and defeated him.
+Aurangzeb put Hyderabad under a Nizam whom he named 'Viceroy of the
+Deccan' and the Carnatic under a Nawab who was to be subordinate to
+the Viceroy. But the Emperor who succeeded Aurangzeb had none of their
+predecessors' greatness; and soon after Aurangzeb's death the Nizam of
+Hyderabad assumed independence, with the Nawab of the Carnatic as his
+vassal.
+
+In 1749 there was a quarrel for the Nawabship. The French at
+Pondicherry supported one claimant, and the English at Madras
+supported the other. This was the gallant Clive's opportunity.
+Exchanging the clerk's pen for the officer's sword, the youthful
+'writer' marched with a small force to Arcot and captured it on behalf
+of the Company's nominee, and then sustained most heroically a lengthy
+siege. Clive triumphed; and Mohammed Ali, otherwise known as Nawab
+Walajah, became undisputed Nawab of the Carnatic. Later, with British
+support, the Nawab renounced his allegiance to Hyderabad, and reigned
+as an independent prince.
+
+In his capital at Arcot, Nawab Walajah, who had many factionary
+enemies, would assuredly have found himself in a dangerous centre of
+intrigue; but he was wise in his generation; for as soon as he had
+gained his independence he sought and obtained from the Governor of
+Madras permission to build a palace for himself within the protective
+walls of Fort St. George. Arrangements for the work were made; and one
+of the streets of the Fort--the street which still bears the name of
+'Palace Street'--received its name because it was the street in which
+the Nawab's residence was to be built. Eventually, however, the scheme
+was set aside; and in the following year the Nawab acquired private
+property in Chepauk, and engaged an English architect to build him a
+house. Chepauk Palace thus came into existence. The grounds of the
+Palace, which the Nawab surrounded with a wall, formed an immense
+enclosure, which included a large part of the grounds of Government
+House of to-day and a great deal of adjoining land.
+
+Chepauk Palace was the scene of some grand doings in its time; and
+soon after it was built the Nawab entertained the Governor of Madras
+and his Councillors, one of whom was Mr. Warren Hastings, at 'an
+elegant breakfast;' and, when the feast was over, he divided some Rs.
+30,000 among his guests. The Governor got Rs. 7,000, and, on a sliding
+scale, the Secretaries, who were last on the list, got Rs. 1,000 each.
+
+The relations, however, between Nawab Walajah and a later Governor of
+Madras were not so cordial. In 1780 Haidar Ali with an immense army
+suddenly invaded the Carnatic, and annihilated a British force that
+was sent to oppose him; and Tipu, his son and successor, continued the
+campaign. The Company's treasury at Madras was straitened with the
+expenses of the war, and the Nawab, whose capital was in the hands of
+the enemy, was unable to contribute thereto; but when Tipu was
+eventually defeated, the Nawab was induced to assign the control of
+the revenues of the Carnatic to the Company. A few months later the
+Nawab felt that he had made an unwise bargain, and he declared his
+renunciation of the agreement; but Baron Macartney, the newly
+appointed Governor of Madras, kept him strictly to his word. The Nawab
+wrote various official letters, complaining in one that Lord Macartney
+had 'premeditatedly' offered him 'Insults and Indignity,' and in
+another that he had shown him 'every mark of Insult and Contempt.' The
+Directors in London, expressly declaring their desire to content the
+influential Nawab, decided in his favour; whereupon Lord Macartney,
+who in the opinion of his friends had been set at naught for the sake
+of the wealthy potentate, indignantly resigned the Governorship of
+Madras, and went home. Friendly relations between the Nawab and the
+Madras Government were thereupon resumed, and when Nawab Walajah died,
+at the age of seventy-eight, he was eulogised in an official note in
+the _Fort St. George Gazette_.
+
+The career of his son and successor, Umdat-ul-Umara, was less
+auspicious. Although his accession was the occasion of friendly
+letters between himself and the Government of Madras, the Nawab's
+rejection of the Governor's suggestion that the financial arrangements
+between himself and the Company should be made more favourable to the
+Company irritated the Governor, and the Governor's efforts to induce
+the Nawab to change his mind irritated the Nawab. Meanwhile Tipu
+Sultan was preparing for another war with the Company, and when, after
+a brief campaign, Tipu was killed while fighting bravely in defence of
+his capital, it was declared that an examination of Tipu's
+correspondence showed that the Nawab of Arcot had been guilty of
+treasonable communications with Mysore. It was accordingly resolved
+that the Company should assume control of the Carnatic; but, as the
+Nawab was seriously ill, nothing was done until his death, when
+British troops were sent to occupy Chepauk Palace.
+
+The Nawab's son refused to recognize the Company's right to control
+his father's dominions, whereupon the Company set him aside, and put
+his cousin on the throne in his stead. The Company were now the actual
+rulers of the Carnatic, and the future Nawabs were styled 'Titular
+Nawabs.' In 1855 the third of the Titular Nawabs died without any son
+to succeed him. Lord Dalhousie was Governor-General of India at the
+time, and it was Lord Dalhousie's declared policy that if the ruler of
+any native state died without issue, his dominions should formally
+lapse to the Company. On this principle the Carnatic now became a
+formal part of the British dominions, and the dynasty of the Nawabs
+came to an end; Chepauk Palace, which was the personal property of the
+Nawabs, was acquired by the Company's Government for a price, and was
+eventually turned into Government offices.
+
+The many thousands of Mohammedans, however, who dwelt in the crowded
+streets and lanes of Chepauk, and who had looked upon the Nawab as
+their religious chief, would have been afflicted at the cessation of
+the Carnatic line; and after the Indian Mutiny the Government of
+India, respecting Mohammedan sentiment, recognized the succession of
+the nearest relative of the late Nawab and obtained for him from the
+King of England the hereditary title of Amir-i-Arcot, or 'Prince of
+Arcot'--an honorary title but higher than that of Nawab. A sum of Rs.
+1,50,000 per annum--(not an excessive sum in relation to the revenues
+of the Carnatic, which are now collected by the Madras Government)--is
+expended annually in pensions to the Prince and to certain of his
+relatives; and he lives in a house called the 'Amir Mahal' (the Amir's
+Palace), which was given to him by the Government. The Amir Mahal
+stands in spacious grounds in Royapettah. At the principal entrance,
+the gate-house is a tall and imposing edifice in red brick. At the
+gateway, sentries, armed with old-fashioned rifles, stand--or
+sometimes sit--on guard; and the Prince's Band is often to be heard
+practising oriental music in the room up above.
+
+Regarded in relation to its history, Chepauk is something more than
+'one of the Government buildings on the Marina.' Let us remember that,
+when it was enclosed within the walls that are now no more, it was the
+home of Mohammedan potentates--sometimes a scene of gorgeous
+festivity--sometimes a scene of desperate intrigue. In imagination we
+may people the front garden with the gaily-uniformed Body-Guard of the
+Carnatic sovereign, mounted on gaily-bridled steeds; and we may see
+the Nawab himself coming magnificently down the front steps and
+climbing into the silver howdah that is strapped on the back of a
+kneeling elephant. A blast of oriental music, and the procession goes
+on its way; and we may wonder at which of the tiled windows on the
+upper floor the bright eyes of the Lalla Rookhs and the Nurmahals of
+Chepauk are slily peeping at the spectacle. The vision vanishes. The
+procession now is a procession of clerks to their homes when their
+day's work is over; and the music is a ragtime selection by the Band
+of the Madras Guards on the Marina, close by, with ayahs and children
+around. We are in the twentieth century; but for a moment we have
+lived in the past.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE
+
+
+In the early days of Madras all the employees of the Company, from the
+Governor down to the most junior apprentice, lived in common. Their
+bedrooms were in one and the same house, and they had their meals at
+one and the same table. The house stood in the middle of the Fort, and
+was the 'Factory'--a word which, as already explained, was used in
+former times to mean a mercantile office, or, as Annandale in his
+dictionary defines it, 'an establishment where factors in foreign
+countries reside to transact business for their employers;' and the
+Factory in Fort St. George was both an office and a home.
+
+The community life, with the common table, was maintained for many
+years, but in course of time, when the number of the employees had
+greatly increased and some of the senior officials had wives and
+children, one man and another were allowed to live in separate
+quarters, within the precincts of the Fort; and eventually the common
+table, like King Arthur's, was dissolved. Even then, however, and
+right on until the beginning of the nineteenth century, the junior
+employees had a common mess, and were under something like disciplined
+control.
+
+Like all the other buildings inside the Fort and within the walls of
+White Town, the Factory--which was sometimes spoken of as 'The
+Governor's House'--was without a garden; and it was only to be
+expected that the resident employees, most of whom were young men,
+should wish for a recreation ground to which they could resort in
+their leisure hours. Some of the wealthy private residents of White
+Town had shown what could be done; for they had acquired patches of
+land outside the walls, which they had enclosed with hedges and
+cultivated as gardens, with a house in the middle of each garden, in
+which, as either a permanent or an occasional residence, the owner and
+his family might hope to find relief from the stuffiness of the
+streets of the rapidly developing city. In the 'Records' any such
+villa is spoken of as a 'garden-house' and even now in Madras the term
+'garden-house' is occasionally used in Indo-English as signifying a
+house that stands within its own 'compound,' as distinct from houses
+that open directly into the street.
+
+The Company's agents in Madras realized the desirability of laying out
+a garden for the recreative benefit of the Company's employees.
+Outside the walls, therefore, of White Town they hedged off some eight
+acres of land in the locality in which the Law College now stands, and
+they cultivated it as a 'Company's Garden;' and within it they built a
+small pavilion. We may imagine that in the cool of the evening it was
+common for a goodly number of the Company's mercantile employees to
+leave their apartments in the Fort and stroll beyond the walls the
+short distance to the 'Garden,' which in those early days was
+refreshingly near the seashore. In our mind's eye we can blot the Law
+College out of the landscape and can see a party of youthful merchants
+engaged as energetically as was suitable to the heat of Madras in the
+then fashionable game of bowls--or, less energetically but much more
+excitedly, gathered in a ring round two cocks that are tearing each
+other to pieces--a particularly popular form of 'Sport' in old Madras;
+and, although the Directors in London appropriately forbade to their
+employees the use of cards or the dice-box, we can espy a
+tense-visaged quartet within the shadow of the pavilion with a 'pool'
+of 'fanams' (coins worth about 2-½_d_.) on the table, or possibly,
+rupees or pagodas, absorbed in a round of ombre or one of the other
+card games that were in fashion. The sun has set, and the shadows are
+lengthening. A bugle sounds from the Fort; and the employees stroll
+back to supper, which, according to an old account, invariably
+consisted of 'milk, salt fish, and rice,' but which will be privately
+supplemented afterwards with potations of arrack-punch by those who
+can afford nothing better and with draughts of sack or canary by those
+who can.
+
+In the course of a few years the 'Company's Garden' was spoiled. Black
+Town had been springing up close by; and, when a wall was built round
+old Black Town, the Company's Garden was unpleasantly included
+therein, and the Garden was now in the north-west corner of the Indian
+city. Moreover, a part of the Garden had begun to be utilized as a
+European burial-ground, and huge funeral monstrosities of the bygone
+style had begun to dominate the enclosure.
+
+The Company's agents in Madras felt that a new recreation ground was a
+necessity; and they were agreed that there ought to be not merely a
+'Company's Garden,' but a 'Company's Garden-House.' They wrote to the
+Directors saying that there were occasions on which the Company in
+Madras had to entertain 'the King (Golconda) and persons of quality,'
+and that they had no building that was suitable for any such
+ceremonial proceedings. True there was the Council Chamber in the
+Fort, but the Council Chamber was the place where the Company's
+mercantile transactions were discussed; and the Chamber, as well as
+all the other buildings in the Fort, was closely identified with the
+'Factory;' and the Company's chief officials in Madras declared--not,
+we may suppose, without regard for their own convenience--that a
+stately 'Garden House,' unassociated with ledgers and bills of sale,
+ought to be built, in due accord with the stateliness of the Company
+itself. Their application for permission to put the work in hand was
+met by the Directors in London with the typically frugal reply that
+the work might be done but care was to be taken that the Company
+should be put to 'no great charge.' Possibly the representatives in
+Madras were able to provide additional supplies on the spot, but,
+however that may have been, the house was 'handsomely built,' yet
+'with little expense to the Company.' The new garden seems to have
+comprised the area within which the Medical College and the General
+Hospital are now situated. The grounds, which stretched down, even as
+now, to the bank of the river, were well laid out, and the Company's
+first 'Garden House' was a fine possession.
+
+In 1686 Master William Gyfford, Governor of Fort St. George, had a
+fancy for using the Garden House as a private residence for himself.
+It is not to be wondered at that he did so; for Master Gyfford, after
+twenty-seven years' residence in Madras and more than twenty-seven
+years in the East, was in poor health, and lately he had been taken
+ill with a 'a violent fitt of the Stone and Wind Collick.' The
+gardenless 'Factory' in the Fort was a gloomy apology for a
+'Governor's House,' and the crowd of employees that were accommodated
+there must have been a serious infliction upon the invalid Governor;
+and he found the Garden House an agreeable retreat. In his new
+quarters he got better of his illness; and he dwelt there a
+considerable time, till in the following year he left Madras for
+England for good. The story is interesting, for it records the first
+occasion on which a Governor of Madras lived in a separate house
+outside the Fort.
+
+On various occasions the Company's 'Garden House,' with its extensive
+grounds, was used for public purposes, justifying the plea for its
+construction. For example, when the Company received the news of the
+accession of King James II, the event was celebrated with brilliant
+proceedings at the Garden House. Similarly, at the accession of Queen
+Anne 'all Europeans of fashion in the City' were invited to the Garden
+House, where they 'drank the Queen's Health, and Prosperity to old
+England.' In an earlier chapter we have related how a young Nawab of
+Arcot who had just succeeded to his murdered father's throne was
+entertained at the Garden House with great doings. Governor Pitt made
+great developments in the Gardens, and was another Governor who liked
+the Garden House as a residence. An Englishman who was living in
+Madras in 1704, when Pitt was Governor, has left an interesting
+account of the Garden House as he saw it:--
+
+     'The Governor, during the hot Winds, retires to the
+     Company's new Garden for refreshment, which he has made a
+     very delightful Place of a barren one. Its costly Gates,
+     lovely Bowling-Green, spacious Walks, Teal-pond, and
+     Curiosities preserved in several Divisions are worthy to be
+     Admired. Lemons and Grapes grow there, but five Shillings
+     worth of Water and attendance will scarcely mature one of
+     them.'
+
+Before long it had come to be an unwritten regulation that Governors
+at Fort St. George might reside at their choice either in the Fort or
+at the Garden House. There came a time, however, when the Governor had
+of necessity to betake himself to the Fort; it was the time when the
+French were besieging Madras. During the siege the enemy used the
+Garden House as a vantage-ground for their big guns; and afterwards,
+when they had captured Fort St. George and were in occupation of the
+city, they pulled the Garden House down, lest the English, trying
+perhaps to recapture the Fort, should be able to use it as a
+vantage-ground in their turn.
+
+Thus, when Madras was restored to the English, the Garden House had
+disappeared, and the only house for Governor Saunders was the original
+residence in the middle of the Fort. Governor Saunders, however, was
+not content with the walled-in accommodation that the Fort provided
+and was unwilling to forgo the residential privileges that his
+predecessors had enjoyed; so a private 'garden-house' in Chepauk was
+rented in his behalf. It belonged to a Mrs. Madeiros, a rich
+Portuguese widow, whose husband, lately deceased, had been a leading
+merchant in White Town.
+
+Mrs. Madeiros's house was 'Government House, Madras,' of the present
+day. The house, however, has been enlarged and the grounds have been
+extended since Governor Saunders lived there as a tenant.
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS]
+
+Governor Saunders liked his residence, and, before he had been there a
+year, the Company acquired it from the widow, who had no use for it
+now that her husband was dead; and the Governor was careful to leave
+on record the reason of the acquisition:--
+
+     'It having been always usual for the Company to allow the
+     President a house in the Country to retire to, and Mrs.
+     Medeiros being willing to dispose of her House, situated in
+     the Road to St. Thomé, for three thousand five hundred
+     pagodas (say Rs 12,250), Agreed That it be purchased
+     accordingly, The Company's Garden-house having been
+     demolish'd by the French when they were in Possession of
+     this Place, and Mrs. Medeiros's being convenient for that
+     Purpose, and on a Survey esteem'd worth much more than the
+     Sum 'tis offer'd at.'
+
+The Company always enjoyed a good bargain, and Governor Saunders was
+justified in thinking that he had made a very good one in respect of
+the house; for, a few years later, the house, with certain extensions
+and improvements, was written down in the Company's books at a
+valuation of nearly four times the price that was paid for it.
+
+We have brought our story down to the acquisition of Government House,
+but it remains to relate some of the historic events in which
+Government House has figured since it was acquired.
+
+During the second siege of Madras by the French, under Lally, the
+besiegers occupied the Garden House, and during their occupation they
+did a great deal of wanton damage before they ceased their vain
+endeavours. Two years later, however, the English had the enjoyment of
+a delicate revenge. They captured Pondicherry and brought Lally to
+Madras, where they imprisoned him in the Garden House till a vessel
+was available to take him to England. The damage that he had done had
+not yet been repaired; and a contemporary Record says that 'Mr. Lally
+was lodged in those apartments of the Garden House which had escaped
+his fury at the Siege of Madras,' and that in respect of his table he
+was allowed to give his own orders 'without limitation of expence,'
+with the result that he 'seemed to have intended Revenge by
+Profusion.'
+
+A few years later Tipu, Sultan of Mysore, at the head of a body of
+horsemen, made a sudden raid on Madras; and the troopers scampered
+about the well-laid-out grounds of the Garden House, looting the
+villages on either side. According to accounts, Governor Bourchier and
+his Councillors were there when the raiders came, and they would
+assuredly have been caught had they not managed to make their escape
+in a boat that was conveniently tied up on the bank of the Cooum
+river.
+
+More than one Governor of Fort St. George has died at Government
+House, and it was there that Governor Pigot died in extraordinary
+circumstances. The tale has been told in a previous chapter, that Lord
+Pigot was arrested by his Councillors, with whom he had quarrelled,
+and that he died in confinement in the Garden House.
+
+The reader has yet to be told how the Garden House was finally
+transformed into the Government House that we see to-day.
+
+In 1798 Lord Clive, son of the great Robert Clive, was sent out to
+India as Governor of Madras. Within the first six months of his
+arrival there was the excitement of a war with Mysore, in which the
+terrible Tipu Sultan was killed during the assault on his capital.
+During the tranquil remainder of his five years in India, Lord Clive
+turned his attention to domestic reforms, and amongst them he resolved
+that the Garden House should be improved. In an official minute he
+wrote:--
+
+     'The garden house, at present occupied by Myself, is so
+     insufficient either for the private accommodation of my
+     family and Staff, or for the convenience of the public
+     occasions inseparable from my situation, that it is my
+     intention to make such an addition to it as may be
+     calculated to answer both purposes.'
+
+Lord Clive thereupon, in 1801, developed Government House at a cost of
+more than Rs. 3 lakhs; and two years later he built the beautiful
+Banqueting Hall, at a cost of Rs. 2½ lakhs. The recent fall of
+Tipu's capital of Seringapatam was an event that the Banqueting Hall
+could appropriately commemorate; and Lord Clive, with pious respect
+for his dead father's memory, coupled Plassey with Seringapatam, and
+ordered that the fine figure-work on the façade of the hall should be
+a commemoration of both victories. In England the Directors of the
+Company complained of what they called 'such wasteful extravagance;'
+but the developments were a real want, and it is a matter of
+present-day satisfaction that the Madras Government have no need to be
+acquiring a site now and to be building a new Government House in
+these expensive days. Lord Clive was certainly no miser with the
+Company's money, for he built also a second Government House--a
+'country residence' at Guindy. The 'country residence' was developed
+and improved some forty years later by Lord Elphinstone, who was
+Governor of Madras in the middle of last century. It is a truly
+beautiful house, standing in beautiful grounds; and it has lately been
+a proposition that the house at Guindy should be the Governor's only
+residence, and that Government House, Madras, should be used for
+Government offices.
+
+'Government House, Madras!' To most people it is suggestive of dinner
+parties within and garden parties without; and the Banqueting Hall is
+suggestive of dances and levees and meetings for good causes. But to
+people who can look at Government House, Madras, with an historic
+glance it rouses other memories. Within its original walls more than
+two centuries ago a belaced Senhor kept Portuguese state. It was here
+that Frenchmen were encamped while their guns were fruitlessly
+hammering at the walls of Fort St. George. It was here that Lally
+lived sumptuously in prison, till he was sent to Europe--eventually to
+be executed in Paris for having failed to capture Madras. It was
+within these grounds that Tipu's horsemen were scampering about on a
+September morning, looking for houses where money or jewels could be
+commandeered. It was here that an ennobled Governor of Madras lived in
+gilded captivity till death set him free.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+MADRAS AND THE SEA
+
+
+Madras is now a seaport of considerable repute; but it is interesting
+to recall the fact that less than forty years ago the city was without
+a harbour, and that ships which came there had to anchor out at sea.
+In the days of the Company, passengers and cargo had to be landed on
+the beach in boats; and, as the waves that chase one another to the
+shores of Madras are nearly always giant billows crested with foaming
+surf, the passage between ship and shore was not without its
+discomforts and also its risks.
+
+Warren Hastings, when he was senior member of the Madras Council and
+was in charge of Public Works, wrote it down that he thought it
+'possible to carry out a causeway or pier into the sea beyond the
+Surf, to which boats might come and land their goods or passengers,
+without being exposed to the Surf.' At various times different
+engineers devised plans for such a pier as Warren Hastings proposed,
+but nothing was actually done, and it was not until the sixties of
+last century that a pier was actually made. It was not a stone
+causeway such as Hastings seems to have had in his mind, but was a
+lighter and likelier structure of wood and iron; and it did excellent
+work, making it easy for passengers and cargo to be landed in fair
+weather. Madras was still, however, without a harbour; but before many
+years a harbour was taken in hand, and in the summer of 1881 its two
+arms, enclosing the small pier, were practically finished. There was
+much rejoicing; but the congratulations were short-lived, for on a
+certain night during the winter of the same year there was a cyclone
+off Madras, and the next morning the citizens saw that their harbour
+had been wrecked by the devastating waves. It was fifteen years before
+the harbour had been restored, upon an improved plan; and even then it
+was a poor apology for a haven; for when a storm was expected, ships
+were warned to put out to sea, as the cyclone had shown that a stormy
+sea was less dangerous than the storm-beaten harbour. Within recent
+years, however, the harbour has been so much altered and strengthened
+and developed that it is regarded as a splendid piece of engineering,
+and shipping business in Madras has benefited greatly. Large vessels
+can now lie up against wharves, to discharge or to load their cargo,
+and passengers can embark and disembark in comfort, and the increase
+in trade has been great. Much watchfulness, however, is still very
+necessary; for, on an exciting night a few years ago, part of the
+extended harbour-wall was washed away by a storm.
+
+Yes, Madras is an important seaport; yet it is a fact that, except to
+men whose business is with the sea, Madras is much less like a seaside
+town than it was in its earlier years, and many of the people who live
+there seldom see the briny ocean--even though they may sometimes be
+reminded of its nearness when in the stillness of the night they hear
+
+     'The league-long breakers thundering on the shore.'
+
+For one thing, the greater part of Madras is not so near the sea as it
+was in former times; for the southern wall of the harbour has acted as
+a breakwater, causing the sea to recede a very long way from the
+original shore; and houses in the thoroughfare that is still called
+'Beach Road' are now a very long way from the beach, and it is only
+from upper stories that the sea in the distance is visible. Southward,
+moreover, the magnificent road that is still called the 'Marina' is
+fast losing its right to the name; for it is only across a broad
+stretch of ever-extending dry sand that the dark blue ribbon of
+tropical sea is beheld therefrom.
+
+In earlier days Madras was verily a city of the sea. Both White Town
+and Black Town lay directly along the sea-beach, and the coming and
+going of the Company's ships were momentous events. Surf-boats used to
+land on the beach outside the 'Sea-Gate' of the wave-splashed Fort,
+laden with cargo from the Company's ships lying out in the roads; and
+the bales were carried through the gateway into the Company's
+warehouses within the Fort-walls. The Sea-Gate is still to be seen,
+and it still looks towards the sea; but the sea is far away, and the
+Sea-Gate is now one of the least used of the entrances to the Fort.
+
+[Illustration: THE SEA GATE.
+
+The sea has now receded afar.]
+
+In former times the Company had a considerable fleet of first-class
+sailing-ships, and, owing to the frequency of wars with either the
+French or the Dutch, the Company obtained royal permission to equip
+their ships as men-of-war armed with serviceable guns, which could be
+turned against an enemy if occasion required. The voyage from England
+to India was by way of the Cape of Good Hope, and it lasted at least
+three or four months, and often very much more. For example, when
+Robert Clive came out to India for the first time, the vessel was so
+buffeted by contrary winds that the commander thought it best to run
+across the Atlantic and let her lie up so long in a South American
+port that Clive learned to speak Spanish with considerable fluency;
+and it was not till nearly a year after leaving England that the young
+writer arrived at Madras.
+
+Furthermore, besides the various adventures that were natural to a
+sea-voyage, there was the contingency of a sea-fight, and the
+possibility of being taken to Pondicherry or Batavia as a prisoner of
+war instead of being landed at Madras as a paid employee of the
+'Honourable Company.'
+
+[Illustration: THE COMPANY'S FLAG.]
+
+It was usual for several ships to sail together, for mutual
+protection; and passengers had reason to congratulate themselves when
+they were eventually landed safe and sound at Madras. It can be
+readily imagined that the sight of a vessel of the Company approaching
+in the distance caused a stir of excitement amongst the residents of
+Fort St. George. There were no telegraphs from other ports to give
+previous notice of a vessel's prospective arrival; and the fact that a
+ship was at hand was unknown until her flag[3] or her particular rig
+was discerned in the distance, or until one of her guns gave notice of
+her approach. The comparative regularity, however, of the winds in
+Eastern seas caused 'seasons' in which vessels might be expected; and
+when a season arrived, the look-out who happened to be on duty on
+the Fort flagstaff must have been particularly alert. Ay, and there
+must have been much hurrying to and fro in the streets of White Town
+when the signal had been given and the news had spread that the sails
+of a Company's ship had been sighted, and while the vessel, perhaps
+with several consorts, came nearer and nearer, till at last the
+anchors were dropped and salutes were exchanged between ship and
+shore.
+
+[Footnote 3: 'The flag displayed by the Company's ships bore seven
+horizontal red stripes on a white ground, with a St. George's Cross in
+the inner top corner.'--_Love_.]
+
+There was good cause for excitement. The ship brought letters from
+home--perhaps after several months of no news at all. There were the
+private letters that told the news about near ones and dear ones;
+there were the official letters that decreed appointments in the
+Company's service and promotions and penalties, and dealt with the
+Company's business; and there were the 'news-letters'--the
+old-fashioned predecessors of the modern newspaper, which were written
+by paid correspondents, whose duty it was to give their clients news
+of London and of England and of Europe. The news was often astounding,
+and was sometimes extraordinarily behind-time. For example, the
+Company's employees in India were still professing loyalty to the Most
+High and Mighty King James II nearly a twelvemonth after that monarch
+had fled to France and had been succeeded by William and Mary; and the
+employees at Madras were surprised indeed when a ship arrived one day
+from England with the belated news.
+
+The salutes have been fired, and the vessel has been surrounded by a
+flotilla of surf-boats and catamarans. The commander and the
+passengers are being rowed ashore, and the Governor with his
+Councillors, dressed all of them in their smartest official attire,
+are waiting on the beach outside the Sea-Gate of the Fort to bid them
+a hearty welcome. Amongst the passengers there are probably some
+youths who have been posted to Madras either as apprenticed 'writers'
+or as military Cadets; and perhaps there is a senior employee who is
+returning to India after the rare event of a holiday in England.
+Possibly too there are some ladies, either wives of employees who have
+been willing to accompany or to follow their husbands to the
+mysterious East--or, as was not infrequently the case, young ladies
+who, with the consent of the Directors, have been shipped out to India
+by their parents or guardians or on their own account, in the hope
+that companionable bachelor employees, pining in their loneliness,
+will jump at the chance of matrimony.
+
+[Illustration: SURF-BOAT]
+
+The surf-boat comes nearer and nearer; and when it gets among the
+breakers there are feminine screams of terror. The alarm is not
+without cause; for at one moment the boat is being balanced on the top
+of a heaving wave, and the next it is almost lost to sight in a
+foaming hollow. The excitement in the tossing boat is tremendous; but
+it is brief; for there are only three or four breakers to be
+negotiated, and in less than a minute a curling wave has caught the
+boat in its clutch and hurls it with a thud into the shallows. Naked
+coolies rush forward and lay hold of its sides, lest the backwash
+should carry it seaward again; and, with the help of the next wave,
+they manage to haul the boat a little further on shore, and the
+passengers are able to disembark--splashed, perhaps, but safe and
+sound.
+
+When the greetings are over, the Governor leads the way into the Fort,
+where a general meal is served and the news is told and the
+exclamations of surprise are many. In the evening there is a banquet,
+and after the banquet, 'when the gentlemen have finished their wine,'
+and have rejoined the ladies, the stately dances of the period are
+'performed;' and it is not unlikely that before the assembly breaks
+up, some, if not all, of the newly-arrived young ladies have received
+and have accepted offers of matrimony; and it is possible that two or
+more gallants have had a serious quarrel about this young lady or
+that, and even possible that, out of the Governor's sight, swords have
+been drawn in her regard.
+
+On the morrow the unloading begins; and for many days a fleet of
+surf-boats is busily engaged in bringing ashore the broadcloths and
+other English wares which the Company will be able to sell at a large
+profit--not forgetting the barrels of canary and madeira and other
+luxuries that have been imported both for private consumption and also
+for the general table in the Fort. And when the unloading is over and
+the ship has been overhauled after her long voyage, the surf-boats
+will then be engaged in carrying to the ship the calicoes and other
+Indian wares that are to be exported to England for the Company's
+profit there.
+
+The sea-trade of Madras is very much greater now than it was in the
+days of old. Not a day now passes but at least one steamship glides
+into the Madras Harbour, and it is always a much larger vessel than
+was the very largest of the sailing-ships that in those bygone times
+tacked laboriously to an anchorage in the Madras roads. But the
+excitement has disappeared. The steamers come and go with as little
+stir--or not so much--as when a tramcar leaves a crowded
+street-corner.
+
+In Madras there are still some reminders of the times when nautical
+affairs were in more general evidence in Madras than they are now. For
+example, the 'Naval Hospital Road' is still the name of a thoroughfare
+which leads from the Poonamallee Road, opposite the School of Arts, to
+Vepery, and it is a reminder of the fact that there were once upon a
+time sufficient naval men in Madras to make a hospital for sick seamen
+a necessity. The buildings of the old Naval Hospital still exist; they
+are the buildings in the Poonamallee Road opposite the School of Arts.
+In the early part of last century the Naval Hospital itself was
+abolished, and the buildings were converted into a 'Gun Carriage
+Factory'--and this is now no more. It is a good many years indeed
+since the Gun Carriage Factory was closed down; and in Madras at this
+particular time, when there is a very pressing demand for house
+accommodation, many people wonder that such spacious premises in so
+busy a quarter of the city should have been lying idle for so long and
+are hoping to see them once more serving some useful purpose.
+
+Another reminder of the nautical conditions of those days is to be
+found in the existence of an 'Admiralty House.' 'Admiralty House' is a
+fine residence in San Thomé, and is now the property of the Raja of
+Vizianagram. It was apparently the San Thomé residence of the Admiral
+of the East Indian fleet. That official had another residence within
+the Fort, which used also to be called 'Admiralty House'--the house
+which Robert Clive occupied at the time of his marriage, and which is
+now the Accountant-General's office.
+
+We will glance at one more reminder of the nautical Madras of bygone
+times. At Royapuram there is a large house which is now styled 'Biden
+House,' and is used as a harbour-masters' residence, but which until a
+few years ago was called 'The Biden Home' or 'The Sailors' Home.' It
+is not an ancient building, but it was nevertheless built in the days
+of the sailing-ship, and is a reminder of the times when sailing-ships
+used to lie out in the Madras Roads and the 'Sailors' Home' offered
+seamen entertainment more physically and morally wholesome than that
+which was provided in the low-class hotels and saloons which laid
+themselves out for the spoliation of Jack ashore--and of the time when
+the wreck of a sailing-ship on the Coromandel coast was not an
+uncommon occurrence and parties of distressed seamen were not
+infrequently to be seen in Madras, for whom a temporary 'Home' had to
+be provided. The 'Old Salt'--the picturesque sea-dog of sailing-ship
+days--has disappeared except from story-books--the old-fashioned
+seaman with earrings in his ears and a villainous 'quid' in his mouth,
+dressed in a blue jersey and the baggiest of blue trowsers, and
+lurching as he walked, always 'full of strange oaths', and larding his
+speech with nautical jargon. On shore, after a long sea-voyage, and
+with money in his pockets, the 'Old Salt' in an Eastern port was not
+always a factor for peace and progress. He was not uncommonly too
+frequent a visitor at what the Madras Records call the 'punch houses,'
+and the Records show that he often caused a disturbance. But he was a
+brave fellow, and at sea he did much for England's trade and for
+England's greatness. In an Indian seaport he was a picturesque, if
+troublesome, personage, and nautical Madras has changed with the Old
+Salt's disappearance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+THE STORY OF THE SCHOOLS
+
+
+A tourist who goes the round of Madras must surely be impressed with
+the numerous signs of its educational activity. Apart from the
+multitude of juvenile schools in every part of the crowded city, the
+number of academic institutions is large, and educational buildings
+are amongst the most prominent of its edifices. Our tourist, putting
+himself in charge of a guide at the Central Station for a drive along
+the beautiful Marina, sees a number of academic buildings on his way.
+The Medical College is just outside the station yard. The classic
+façade of Pachaiyappa's College for Hindus peeps at him gracefully
+across the Esplanade. The Law College lifts its Saracenic towers above
+him as he passes by. Across the road he sees the collection of
+miniature domes and spires and towers that surmount the various
+buildings that make up the far-famed Christian College. Driving along
+the Marina he sees the Senate House of the Madras University
+surmounted by its four squat towers; farther on he sees the staid
+Engineering College, and the still staider Presidency College, and,
+beyond, the whitewashed buildings of Queen Mary's residential College
+for Women; and on his way back by the Mount Road he sees the
+Muhammedan College, with its little white mosque and its spacious
+playing-fields in the heart of the city. There are yet more colleges
+in Madras; and there are also numerous large schools, some of which
+are attended by more than a thousand pupils.
+
+Yes, the educational activity in Madras is great; and it is
+interesting to reflect that it is a development from very small
+educational enterprises in the days when Madras was young.
+
+The initial enterprise was small indeed. The first school in Madras
+was the little "public school for children, several of whom are
+English", which the French Capuchin priest, Father Ephraim, opened in
+his own house in White Town very soon after Madras came into being.
+His pupils were mostly Portuguese or Portuguese Eurasians, the
+children of Portuguese subjects who had come from Mylapore and who,
+for purposes of trade or commerce, had settled down within the English
+Company's domain. His English pupils must have been children of the
+very few of the Company's civil or military employees that were
+married, or of the still fewer English free settlers. Father Ephraim,
+who according to accounts was a really learned man, charged no fees,
+yet was deeply interested in the welfare of his scholars; and the
+little school must have supplied a great want in those far-off days.
+It is interesting indeed to think of that little 'public school;' for
+the room in the priest's house was the scene of the very first
+beginning of what are now the mighty educational activities of
+Madras--an earnest, moreover, of the great things that the Roman
+Catholic Church was going to do in the way of education, both for boys
+and for girls, in South India.
+
+Father Ephraim's school continued to prosper under his successors, and
+in the seventeenth century it was transferred, as a poor-school, to a
+building in the grounds of what is now the Roman Catholic Cathedral in
+Armenian Street; and in 1875 it was put under the control of the
+brothers of St. Patrick, an Irish order of educational monks, and it
+became St. Patrick's orphanage. Later the brothers transferred
+themselves and their orphanage to the spacious park--Elphinstone
+Park--on the southern bank of the Adyar River, the premises which they
+occupy still.
+
+For some thirty years the Company took no part in educational work,
+and the children of Madras were left entirely to Father Ephraim's
+care. Then for two years a certain Master Patrick Warner was the
+Company's temporary chaplain of Madras--a conscientious and
+uncompromising Protestant minister who wrote some long letters to the
+Directors in England denouncing the laxity of the conduct of the
+Company's employees and deploring the influence that Roman Catholic
+priests had been allowed to obtain in Fort St. George. Finally, he
+went back to England, with the threat that he was going to interview
+the Directors on various matters pertaining to Madras; and that he
+succeeded in making himself heard is to be seen in the fact that in
+the following year the Directors sent a Protestant schoolmaster out to
+Madras. The letter in which they notified the appointment to the
+Governor in Council at Fort St. George was assuredly inspired by
+Master Patrick Warner's undoubtedly high-minded representations. They
+wrote that, as there were now in Fort St. George 'so many married
+families,' they were sending out 'one Mr. Ralph Orde to be
+schoolmaster at the Fort ... who is to teach all the Children to read
+English and to write and Cypher gratis, and if any of the other
+Natives, as Portuguez, Gentues (Telugus),[4] or others will send their
+Children to School, we require they be also taught gratis ... and he
+is likewise to instruct them in the Principles of the Protestant
+religion.' Mr. Ralph Orde arrived by the same ship which brought the
+letter, and his arrival (1677) is another notable event in the history
+of education in Madras. It was the first beginning of Government
+education--the laying of the first stone in what is now such a vast
+edifice.
+
+[Footnote 4: In modern Madras the great majority of the Hindu
+residents are Tamils; but in the beginning there were very few Tamil
+immigrants, and the Hindu residents were nearly all of them Telugus
+(Gentoos).]
+
+In appointing a schoolmaster, the Directors meant to do their best for
+education in their rising city; for they had [5]engaged no mean
+dominie on a menial's pay. In choosing Mr. Ralph Orde they chose a
+good man, and they paid him accordingly. He was to dine at the General
+Table, and his salary was to be £50 a year, which in those days was no
+small sum--more than the salary of some of the Members of Council.
+Perhaps, indeed, they got too good a man for the post; for after five
+years of educational work in Madras, Mr. Orde complained that his
+schoolmastering had been 'much prejudicial to my health,' and he asked
+to be relieved of his duties and to be appointed to a post in the
+Company's civil service instead. His request was granted. A new
+schoolmaster was appointed; and as a 'Civilian' Mr. Orde worked with
+such success that in two or three years he was sent to Sumatra to be
+the Chief of a factory that he was to found on the west coast of the
+island. The ex-schoolmaster would, perhaps, have risen to be Governor
+of Madras, but it would seem that life in the East had really been
+'much prejudicial to his health,' for he died in Sumatra ten years
+after his first arrival in Madras.
+
+In 1688, by virtue of the Company's Royal Charter, a Corporation of
+the City of Madras came into being, and it was among their delegated
+duties that they should build a school in Black Town for the purpose
+of teaching 'Native children to speak, read, and write the English
+Tongue, and to understand Arithmetic and Merchants' Accompts.' Three
+years later, however, Elihu Yale, Governor of Madras, complained to
+the Corporation that, although they had been empowered to levy taxes
+on the citizens, they had not so much as thought about building a
+school, and had neglected various other civic responsibilities. The
+Company--rightly or wrongly--sought to justify their inaction with the
+excuse which the Corporation of Madras has--rightly or wrongly--made
+for civic inaction so many times since, namely that 'no funds' had
+been assigned to them by Government for the works that they were
+called upon to undertake. As for taxation, they remarked that the
+people in Black Town had not been schooled to civic taxation; and it
+is true that any ruthless collection of taxes might have meant
+wholesale departures from the city, or at any rate a serious check to
+further immigration. So the municipal school for Native children never
+came into being.
+
+Meanwhile the Company's free school in White Town, started by Mr.
+Orde, continued its work under Mr. Orde's successors; and elementary
+instruction was imparted therein to a heterogeneous crowd of
+children--English, Eurasians, and Indians--Christians and Hindus.
+Eventually the school was put in charge of the chaplain of St. Mary's
+Church in the Fort, and the chaplain and his churchwardens agreed in
+thinking that such education was not of the kind that a Church should
+control, and that it was rather their duty to institute in Madras a
+residential free-school for poor Protestant children of British
+descent, which should be conducted on the lines of the many 'charity
+schools' in England; and in 1715, with the approval of the Directors,
+'St. Mary's Church Charity School' was founded. The event is of
+particular interest; for St. Mary's Church Charity School developed
+later into the 'Male Asylum'--the institution which has done so much
+for boys and girls for so many years, and which, after changing its
+habitation on various occasions, is now comfortably housed in spacious
+premises in the Poonamallee road.
+
+The year 1715 is noteworthy on another account. St. Mary's School
+having been founded solely for the benefit of children of European
+descent, the native children who had attended the Company's day-school
+were deprived of education. The Society for the Promotion of Christian
+Knowledge undertook to supply the want, by establishing schools in
+Madras for the special benefit of Indian children; and the year 1715,
+therefore, is the date which marks the first beginning of the
+educational work that English Protestant missionary societies have
+done in India. The Society found themselves unable to take up the work
+immediately themselves; so they applied to the vigorous Danish
+Lutheran Mission at Tranquebar, which was then a Danish settlement;
+and a Danish minister was sent to Madras to set things going.
+
+In the course of time Madras had become a much more habitable city
+than it had been in its first beginnings, and a much more possible
+place of residence for European women. The Company's employees,
+therefore, were more and more disposed to matrimony; and, as already
+related, the Directors, believing that married men made steadier
+employees, had from early times encouraged the nuptial humour by
+sending out from England periodical batches of well-connected young
+women as prospective brides for employees who lacked either the means
+or the inclination to take a trip home to choose partners for
+themselves. The number of European fathers and mothers, therefore, in
+Madras was continually increasing; and for the education of their
+children, as also for that of children of well-to-do Eurasians, there
+was need of a different kind of education than the various
+free-schools supplied. Home education, with or without paid tutors and
+governesses, probably served its turn with some, but it was certain
+that sooner or later the private school would come into being.
+
+We are unable to say when the first private school in Madras was
+started; but an advertisement in one of the issues of the _Madras
+Courier_, in 1790, shows that a private school for boys was started in
+that year; and it was probably the first. The enterprising
+educationist was Mr. John Holmes, M.A., who opened the 'Madras
+Academy' in Black Town for the instruction of boys in 'Reading,
+Writing, Arithmetic, History, the use of the Globes, French, Greek,
+and Latin.' Other towns in the Madras Presidency had their English
+residents, so Mr. Holmes offered to accommodate 'a few Boarders;' and
+the offer was found so convenient that certain parents wanted
+accommodation for their girls as well as for their boys. Mr. Holmes
+was willing to receive all the pupils that he could get; for in an
+advertisement two months later he announced that he was going to move
+to a larger house in which 'apartments will be allotted for the Young
+Ladies entirely removed and separate from the Young Gentlemen.'
+
+The Madras Academy was eminently successful; but the mixed boarding
+school was not its most commendable side; and in the following year an
+enterprising lady-educationist announced that she was opening in Black
+Town a 'Female Boarding School,' in which her young ladies would be
+'genteelly boarded, tenderly treated, carefully Educated, and the most
+strict attention paid to their Morals,' and the school was to be
+conducted as far as possible 'in the manner most approv'd of in
+England.' The enterprising lady-educationist was a Mrs. Murray, who
+had been a mistress in the Female Asylum. Her syllabus of education
+was of a more feminine sort than that which was followed at the Madras
+Academy; for, as announced in the prospectus, it included 'Reading and
+Writing, the English language and Arithmetic; Music, French, Drawing
+and Dancing; with Lace, Tambour, and Embroidery, all sorts of Plain
+and Flowered needle-work.' The two syllabuses are interesting
+reminders as to what were the usual subjects of education for European
+boys and girls a century and a half ago.
+
+Schools, therefore, were available for children of every
+class--European and Indian, rich and poor; but the schools for
+Indians, conducted either by missionaries or by indigenous teachers,
+were of an elementary kind; and, apart from Oriental studies in
+indigenous institutions, there was little or nothing in the way of
+higher education for Indians either in Madras or anywhere else in
+India. This condition was altered, however, during the governorship of
+Lord William Bentinck, the magnanimous if not brilliant
+governor-general whose term of office lasted for seven years, from
+1828 to 1835.
+
+During this period everything favoured educational progress in India.
+There was peace in England and there was peace in India. It was a time
+of great educational developments in England, as is manifested by the
+fact that within this period the London University and Durham
+University were opened, and the great British Association for the
+Advancement of Science was established. Such conditions in England had
+their influence in India, and the more so because Lord William
+Bentinck was ardent for progress. The opening of the Madras Medical
+College in 1835 was one of the signs of the times. During Lord William
+Bentinck's term of office education in India was reformed. Macaulay,
+afterwards Lord Macaulay, was an Indian official at the time, and he
+penned a notable report on education in India, in which he belittled
+vernacular learning and asserted that the Government of India would do
+well to discountenance it altogether, and to introduce western
+learning and the study of English literature into all schools under
+Government control, and to make it a rule that the English language
+was to be the only medium of instruction. Whether or not Macaulay's
+views were correct, they were adopted by the Government of India, and
+Lord William Bentinck issued in 1835 a resolution in accordance
+therewith, in which he sought to secure the people's acceptance of
+English education for their children by notifying that a knowledge of
+English would in future be necessary for admission into Government
+service. Government service is particularly coveted in India, and the
+resolution encouraged the foundation of schools of a good class in
+which special attention would be given to the study of the English
+language; and within a few years a number of important educational
+institutions had been founded in different parts of India.
+
+In South India the Madras Christian College, called originally 'The
+General Assembly's Institution,' was first in the field. It was
+founded in 1837, by the Rev. John Anderson, the first missionary that
+the Church of Scotland sent out to Madras. The name of the founder is
+preserved in the 'Anderson Hall' in one of the college buildings; but
+the remarkable progress of the institution has been very specially due
+to the untiring energy of the Rev. Dr. Miller, whose statue stands on
+the opposite side of the public road. Dr. Miller was Principal for a
+number of years, and now (1921) at a great age the venerable
+educationist is living in retirement in Scotland.
+
+In 1839, two years after the foundation of the Christian College, the
+Roman Catholic Bishop in Madras, Dr. Carew, founded St. Mary's
+Seminary, which after forty-five years became St. Mary's College, and
+which is now represented by St. Mary's High School for Europeans and
+St. Gabriel's High School for Indians.
+
+Two years later, in 1841, the Presidency College had its beginning, in
+a rented room in Egmore. At its foundation it was not a Government
+institution, but was a public school under the control of governors,
+who were chosen from among the leading Europeans and Indians in
+Madras, with the Advocate-General as their first president. It was
+styled 'The High School of the Madras University,' and it was the
+founders' intention that when a college department had been added, the
+institution should be called the 'Madras University,' and should apply
+for a charter. In the sixties, however, the Madras Government was
+considering a scheme of its own for a University of Madras, whereupon
+the governors of the 'University High School' transferred their school
+to the Government, who called it the 'Presidency College.' The
+Presidency College continued to work in the rented building until
+1870, when the building that it now occupies was publicly opened by
+the Duke of Edinburgh.
+
+[Illustration: UNIVERSITY SENATE HOUSE]
+
+Pachaiyappa's College, a well-known Hindu institution, had its first
+beginning in 1842. Like the other colleges in Madras, it began as a
+school; the school was called 'Pachaiyappa's Central Institution,' and
+was located in Black Town. The present buildings were opened in 1850
+by Sir Henry Pottinger, an ex-governor of Madras, amid a large
+gathering of leading European and Indian residents; and for a number
+of years the annual 'Day' at Pachaiyappa's College was an important
+social event. Pachaiyappa was a rich and religious Hindu, who made his
+money as a broker in the Company's service, and who died more than a
+hundred years ago leaving a lakh of pagodas--some 3½ lakhs of
+rupees--for temple purposes. The trustees neglected the provisions of
+the will, whereupon the High Court assumed control of the funds,
+which under the Court's control rose to the value of nearly Rs. 7½
+lakhs. The original amount was set apart for the fulfilment of the
+terms of the will, and the surplus was assigned to educational
+purposes in Pachaiyappa's name.
+
+[Illustration: PACHAIYAPPA'S COLLEGE.]
+
+The education of girls shared in the development; for in 1842 the
+first party of Nuns of the Presentation Order was brought out from
+Ireland, and a convent, with a boarding school and an orphanage,--the
+'Georgetown Convent' of to-day--was established in Black Town. The
+'Vepery Convent School' and some of the other successful convent
+schools in Madras are controlled by nuns of the same Order.
+
+Education in India was given further impetus in the time of Lord
+Dalhousie. During his term of office (1848-1856) the present system of
+education, under a Director of Public Instruction, was introduced, and
+Government was empowered to make liberal educational grants, and to
+establish universities. The despatch in which the educational
+developments were announced has been called 'the intellectual charter
+of India.'
+
+[Illustration: DOVETON PROTESTANT COLLEGE]
+
+Various institutions in Madras are representative of this later
+development. A Government 'Normal School'--which has grown into the
+'Teachers' College' of to-day--was established in 1856, to increase
+the number and the efficiency of indigenous teachers; and the Madras
+University was incorporated in 1857, for the control and the
+development of higher education. Of large high schools still
+existing, the Harris High School in Royapettah was founded by the
+Church Missionary Society in 1856, for the education of Mohammedan
+boys, and was named after Lord Harris, who was Governor of Madras at
+the time; and the Hindu High School, in Triplicane, was founded in
+1857. Doveton College, Vepery, for Anglo-Indian boys was opened in
+1855. It owes its existence to a wealthy Eurasian, Captain John
+Doveton, who obtained his Captaincy in the service of the Nizam of
+Hyderabad, and who left a large sum of money to an earlier
+institution, the Parental Academy, which was afterwards called Doveton
+College in the deceased officer's honour. Within later years
+philanthropic and enterprising Indians have done much for education,
+and numerous schools both for boys and for girls have been established
+by their efforts.
+
+An educational building of curious interest is the office of the
+Director of Public Instruction, in Nungumbaukam. It is commonly known
+as the 'Old College'. In the masonry of a large arch at the entrance,
+as well as on another arch within, quaint designs have been
+introduced--mysterious faces, and flags, and strange geometrical
+figures. The house was the property of a wealthy Armenian merchant
+named Moorat, who died more than a hundred years ago; and it may be
+supposed that the quaint designs were after the nature of family
+memorials. In the early part of last century the Armenian merchant's
+son sold the building to Government, who used it as a 'College for
+Junior Civilians.' Hence the designation 'Old College'; but the name
+does not mean that it was a building in which young civilians were
+trained, but means that it was a building in which there were
+'colleagues' in residence, or, in other words, that, the 'General
+Table' having been dissolved, the 'College' was a mess-house for
+junior civilians. Later, its large hall was for many years a
+recognized assembly-room for amateur concerts, amateur dramatic
+entertainments, and other occasions of social reunion. The quaint
+devices on the gates are still preserved, and the name of the old
+'College' still survives; but the associations have gone. Not even as
+a ghost does the long-robed Armenian merchant tread the floors; the
+junior civilians, with their ancient pranks and their antiquated
+jests, have departed; in the great hall the lilt of the song and the
+frenzy of the fiddles for the dance and the amateur mouthings of the
+drama are heard no more. A multitude of turbanned clerks are pouring
+forth the blue-black ink from their pens; schoolmasters haunt the
+portals to press their claims for educational grants for their own
+particular schools; and the click of a chorus of typewriters is the
+only music that is borne upon the breeze.
+
+I have told the story of the schools. It is creditable to Madras; for
+great things have been done since that first little 'public school'
+was opened in the Fort.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+HERE AND THERE
+
+
+Before closing the story of Madras, it will be well to speak, at least
+very briefly, of some of the prominent landmarks of the city that we
+have not yet described.
+
+Of churches, we should mention St. George's Cathedral. It was opened
+in 1816, not as a cathedral but as an ordinary church; for Madras then
+was not a diocese by itself, but was a part of the immense diocese of
+Calcutta. The new church was regarded as a necessity; for a great many
+'garden houses' had sprung up in and about the Mount Road, in the area
+that was called the 'Choultry Plain,' and the Directors of the Company
+agreed with representations from Madras that it was undesirable that
+English residents within the bounds should be able to stay away from
+the Church-services on Sunday with the reasonable excuse that the
+nearest Anglican church--St. Mary's in the Fort--was too far away from
+their houses for them to be expected to attend. So the new church was
+built; and some twenty years later, when Dr. Corrie, Archdeacon of
+Calcutta, was consecrated first Bishop of Madras, the church became
+'the Cathedral Church of St. George.' St. George's Cathedral is a
+stately building, with a spire 139 feet high, and it stands in
+spacious grounds. The total cost was more than two lakhs of rupees;
+but nobody had to be asked to subscribe, for the money was available
+from a peculiar source. It was an age in which State lotteries were in
+vogue; Madras had followed the fashion with a series of official
+lotteries, and a 'Lottery Fund' had been created from the profits, so
+that there was always a good supply of cash available for
+extraordinary expenses, such as mending the roads or entertaining
+distinguished visitors. It was from the Lottery Fund that the cost of
+building St. George's was met.
+
+[Illustration: ST. GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL.]
+
+St. Andrew's Church--most commonly known as 'The Kirk'--was planned
+while St. George's was being built; and it is remarkable that it was
+not projected sooner than it was. Scotchmen in Madras, as in other
+parts of India, apart from Scottish soldiers, have been many; and the
+names of a number of Madras roads and houses--such as Anderson Road,
+Graeme's Road, Davidson Street, Brodie Castle, Leith Castle, Mackay's
+Gardens--are reminders of the fact that not a few of the Scots of
+Madras have been influential; and at the time when a second Anglican
+church was being built in the city it was suggested to the Directors
+of the Company in England that the numerous residents who were
+members of the Church of Scotland ought to have a church too. The
+Directors, who realized no doubt the desirability of being agreeable
+to the many Scots in Madras, one of whom at the time was the Governor
+himself, Mr. Hugh Elliot, consented to the suggestion, and in 1815
+they sent out a notification that a Presbyterian church was to be
+built not only at Madras but also in each of the other Presidency
+cities at the Company's expense, and that the Company would maintain a
+Presbyterian chaplain at each. The Directors laid down no instructions
+as to what was to be the maximum cost of each kirk, but it was
+unpretentious buildings that they had in mind. At Bombay a large kirk
+was built for less than half a lakh of rupees, but for the kirk at
+Madras the Madras Government submitted a bill for nearly Rs. 2¼
+lakhs--some Rs. 10,000 more than the total cost of St. George's
+Cathedral, and the Directors were indignant. The Kirk, however, had
+been built; and it is one of the handsome churches of Madras.[5] It is
+a domed building, with a tall steeple over the Grecian façade; and
+some of its critics have said that the combination of dome and steeple
+gives the edifice a strangely camel-backed appearance; but, however
+that may be, the dome adds beauty to the interior. When the Church was
+opened, it was found that the dome evoked disturbing echoes, and a
+large additional expense had to be incurred to exorcise the wandering
+voices. The steeple reaches a height of 166½ feet, which is 27½
+feet higher than that of St. George's.
+
+[Illustration: ST. ANDREW'S (THE "KIRK").]
+
+[Footnote 5: Major de Haviland, of the Madras Engineers, built St.
+George's on a plan designed by Major Caldwell, his senior in the
+service. Major de Haviland both designed the Kirk and built it, and he
+devoted himself to his work and was very proud of his creation, which
+was nevertheless much criticized by unfriendly critics.]
+
+The Roman Catholic Cathedral at Mylapore has been described on page
+61. A sketch of the handsome building is given on the next page.
+
+The High Court, a red Saracenic structure that spreads itself out over
+a large area between Georgetown and the Fort, is a modern building. It
+was opened within the memory of elderly lawyers of Madras, some of
+whom used themselves to practise in the big building which is now the
+Collector's Office, opposite the gate of the Port Trust premises, and
+which was for many years the habitation of the Supreme Court at
+Madras. The present High Court is a mighty monument to the development
+of 'The Law' in Madras. In the early days of Fort St. George the
+Company administered its own justice to its own people, and the court
+was held in a building in the Fort. Punishments in those far-off
+times, judicial or otherwise, were usually severe; and the Records
+show that even a civil servant of junior rank who gave trouble was
+liable to be awarded some such penalty as to sit for an hour or more
+on a sharp-backed 'wooden horse,' with or without weights attached to
+the delinquent's feet. In the town that grew up outside the Fort,
+justice as between natives of the soil was administered by an Indian
+_adikhari_, who represented the lord of the soil. As the Company's
+influence and authority increased, various courts of law were
+created--and the Records show that there were certainly crimes enough
+to justify their creation. A large number of the criminal trials in
+the earlier years of Madras were in respect of thefts of children, to
+sell them as slaves, especially to Dutch merchants along the coast,
+where the victims were not likely to be traced. Slavery was a
+recognized condition of life in old Madras, as indeed it was in the
+whole of Europe; and in the Council-book of Fort St. George there is
+still to be seen an Order, dated September 29, 1687, "that Mr. Fraser
+do buy forty young Sound Slaves for the Rt. Hon'ble Company," who were
+to be made to work as boatmen in the Company's fleet of surf-boats. It
+was in reference to a slave that the first case of trial by jury was
+held in Madras, in 1665, and it was a _cause célèbre_. The prisoner
+was a Mrs. Dawes, who was accused of having murdered a slave girl in
+her service. The Governor himself, who, like a doge of Venice, was
+both ruler and judge, was on the bench, and the twelve jurymen gave a
+unanimous verdict that Mrs. Dawes was 'guilty of the murther, but not
+in mannere and forme,' by which they seem to have meant that the
+circumstances of the case exonerated her from the capital charge.
+Being pressed to give a verdict 'without exception or limitation,'
+they brought in a unanimous verdict of 'not guilty,' whereupon the
+Governor felt that, although the woman had been guilty of a crime, he
+had no help for it but to set her free. He thereupon wrote to the
+Directors in England, expressing his disapproval of 'such an
+unexpected verdict,' and notifying that in his ignorance of the law
+and its formalities he was by no means confident that he had done the
+right thing; and the end of it was that the Governor, presumably with
+the Directors' approval, created two justices, on whom was thereafter
+to fall the responsibility of hearing all such serious cases. Change
+upon change! and to-day the Madras High Court, with the various other
+courts in different parts of the city, is a very visible symbol of the
+serious reality of the administration of justice.
+
+[Illustration: ST. THOME CATHEDRAL.]
+
+The story of the origin of the principal literary and scientific
+institutions in Madras is interesting. In the olden times, when there
+were no literary or scientific magazines by which an 'exile in the
+East' could keep himself in touch with the developments of genius
+throughout the world, people in India with literary or scientific
+tastes had to be content to gratify their tastes with local
+researches, and to depend upon one another for any interchange of
+ideas. This meant that old-time literary and scientific societies in
+India were naturally more enthusiastic than most such societies in
+India are now. Madras indeed has been particularly fortunate in her
+time in having had residents who were earnest in cultured pursuits,
+and whose work survives, directly or indirectly, at the present day.
+
+For example, it was an old-time Madras Civilian, with a hobby for
+astronomy and with a private observatory of his own, that created a
+local interest in the science and is thereby to be regarded as the
+originator of the Madras Observatory--the first British Observatory in
+the East, a famous institution in olden days, which secured for Madras
+the honour--which is still hers--of setting the standard of time
+throughout the whole of India. The Madras Civilian was Mr. William
+Petrie, an extraordinarily versatile genius, who entered the service
+as a young man and rose to be a member of the Government, yet managed
+to find time for very serious astronomical pursuits in his house at
+Nungambaukam. Going home to England on long furlough, Mr. Petrie
+allowed the Madras Government to acquire his instruments; and in 1791,
+when he came back to Madras, the Madras Observatory was built, with
+Mr. Petrie as adviser.
+
+Another enthusiastic scientist in Madras in the same period was Dr.
+James Anderson, who, after many years of work in the Company's medical
+service, settled down at Madras as 'Physician-General,' on a salary of
+£2,500 a year, and devoted himself and a large part of his handsome
+salary to botanical pursuits. He acquired in Nungambaukam more than a
+hundred acres of land, which included what are now the grounds of the
+houses that go by the names of Pycroft's Gardens and Tulloch's
+Gardens; and for nearly a quarter of a century, until his death, Dr.
+Anderson utilized his leisure in the creation and development of a
+useful and ornamental botanical garden. He was most enthusiastic over
+his hobby, and he was continually carrying out botanical and
+agricultural experiments, of medical or commercial or industrial
+value. His grounds were open to the public, and 'Dr. Anderson's
+Botanical Gardens' became famous, and were a place of popular resort.
+Dr. Anderson died at the age of seventy-two; and in St. George's
+Cathedral his memory is graced with a fine statue that was carved by
+the most eminent sculptor, Sir Francis Chantrey, and for which his
+medical brethren in the Madras Service subscribed. How many years
+after his death his gardens continued to exist it might be difficult
+to say, but they must have suffered badly from the want of the ardent
+botanist's enthusiastic care. But the botanic spirit that Dr. Anderson
+had started remained alive in Madras; for in 1835, when, to the regret
+of many, his gardens had been split up into building-sites for two
+private residences, there was still a sufficient number of botanically
+inclined people in the city to found the Agri-Horticultural Society of
+Madras, a still-energetic body whose beautiful gardens at Teynampet
+deserve to be more generally appreciated by the public than they are.
+
+The Madras Literary Society was founded a good many years ago. Its
+work now is that of a circulating library; but in earlier times it was
+especially a 'literary society,' and its meetings, at which lectures
+were delivered or papers were read and discussed, were crowded
+gatherings of the leading Europeans in the city. The original Literary
+Society included scientific researches within its scope, and
+scientific members used to discourse learnedly on scientific subjects
+of topical interest, such as 'The Land-Crabs of Madras,' or
+'Prehistoric Tombs in the Salem District,' or 'Gold in the Wynaad of
+Malabar.' The name of the Society remains, but the literary and
+scientific meetings are no more. The last lecture, if memory fails
+not, was delivered in the nineties, and the audience was not large
+enough or enthusiastic enough to denote that lectures were any longer
+in demand. As a 'Literary Society and Auxiliary of the Royal Asiatic
+Society,' the institution has outlived its requirement; but it has a
+valuable store of more than 50,000 books, new and old, on all
+subjects, and it is continually adding to the number; and, as a
+circulating library of a high standard, it fulfils an excellent
+literary purpose.
+
+The Madras Museum is a magnificent institution. It is to the Madras
+Literary Society that it owes its being; and the Literary Society did
+Madras splendid service in the initiation thereof. This was in 1851,
+when the Literary Society presented its fine collection of geological
+specimens to the Madras Government as the nucleus of the rich and
+varied store of treasures that the Madras Museum now displays. The
+Government lodged the geological specimens in the 'Collector's
+Cutcherry'--a house which forms a part--the oldest part--of the Museum
+buildings of to-day. Before the Government acquired the house in 1830
+for a Cutcherry, the house had been private property, and, under the
+name of the 'Pantheon,' it had been for many years the predecessor of
+the Old College as the 'Assembly Rooms', wherein Madras Society had
+its balls, its plays, and its big dinners. The name of the old
+building still survives in the Pantheon Road, in which the Museum is
+situated.
+
+A high circular building on the Marina always attracts a stranger's
+attention. It has a curious and interesting history. It is commonly
+called 'The Ice-House,' and the name suggests its original purpose. A
+number of years ago, when ice-factories had not been started and when
+in Madras the luxury of the 'cool drink' was unknown, somebody
+conceived the idea of importing ship-loads of blocks of ice from
+America. The idea was developed, and about the year 1840 a commercial
+scheme took shape. A large circular building was erected close to the
+sea-beach as a reservoir for the imported ice, which sailing-ships
+brought in huge blocks from the western world; and for a number of
+years the scheme was a commercial success. The ice was sold at four
+annas a pound, and many people in Madras remember the time when it was
+the only ice that was to be had, and large quantities of it were sold.
+With the eventual institution of ice-factories, which could supply ice
+at a much cheaper rate, the enterprise came to an end, and for a
+considerable time the ice-reservoir was out of use. Then somebody
+bought it, and put windows into the walls, and turned it into a
+residence; and meanwhile, as a result of the construction of the
+harbour, the sea receded a long way down the Ice-house shore. As a
+residence, however, a house of so strange a shape was not in request;
+and eventually some benevolent Hindus turned it into a free hostel for
+any preacher or religious teacher of repute, whatever his creed, who
+might be temporarily staying in Madras, especially if he felt that he
+had a message to deliver to the city. But the reputable prophets who
+availed themselves of the proffered hospitality were few; and the
+'Ice-house' had a deserted look. A few years ago the Madras Government
+acquired it for the excellent purpose of a 'Brahman Widows' Home' for
+Brahman girl-widows at school. This is the purpose that it now
+fulfils. From Ice-house to child-widows' home! It is a great
+transformation--from a house whose chambers were stored with hard
+blocks of cold ice to a house whose chambers are aglow with the warmth
+of young life! There is room to hope that in course of time the
+Child-widows' Home will have outlived its purpose--in the time when
+gentler ideals will prevail, and the sorrows of child-widows will have
+ceased, and the institution will no longer be a need.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+'NO MEAN CITY'
+
+
+It is less than three hundred years since Mr. Francis Day, seeking a
+likely spot for a trading settlement, surveyed the desolate sea-beach
+near the mouth of the Cooum, and decided that the settlement should be
+there. A few scattered huts on the shore and a few catamarans out at
+sea were the only signs of human life, and the breakers that sported
+on the beach were the only manifestations of activity. But the years
+have gone by--wild times and quiet times, years of war and years of
+peaceful progress--and the scene has changed, and great is the
+transformation. In place of the scattered huts there are huge
+buildings on the beach, and behind them is a great and ever greater
+city. The catamarans have not disappeared, but great ships pass to and
+fro in the offing or lie within the shelter of the harbour walls. The
+little 'Factory' in the Fort, within which the Company transacted its
+mercantile business, has gone; but elsewhere in its stead there are
+big offices of numerous commercial firms; and, moreover, there are
+large 'factories' of the modern kind, such as are denoted by tall
+chimneys and the perpetual roar of whirring wheels.
+
+The growth of Madras is a remarkable testimony to British enterprise,
+energy, and perseverance, and also to Indian appreciation of the
+new-comers and of their methods; and it is a matter of satisfaction
+that many illustrious Indians have played an energetic and conspicuous
+part in the development of the city and the promotion of its welfare.
+In many respects the conditions were altogether unfavorable for the
+foundation of a maritime city. There was no natural harbour, and the
+breakers beat continually on the shore; and the so-called river was of
+little practical use. The nearest Indian towns were a good many miles
+away, and the Portuguese merchants in the neighbouring settlement of
+Mylapore were commercial rivals, who might have been supposed to have
+absorbed all the trade that was to be had. Yet Madras is now a large
+city, with more than half a million inhabitants; and its commerce and
+its industries have been so successful that its population is still
+increasing rapidly. Houses are being built everywhere, yet the demand
+increases. Not only are the suburbs being extended, but moreover the
+gardens of existing houses are being everywhere divided, so as to
+provide further building-sites; and two houses or more now stand
+within grounds that were formerly occupied by only one.
+
+But it is well for Madras that, except in respect of some of its
+streets and particular localities, it is not a crowded city, and that
+there is therefore room for such additions. Madras has been called the
+'City of Distances,' and it still deserves the name; for within its
+limits there are some magnificent spaces, and in the garden of many a
+private house the resident can sit of an evening and imagine himself
+in a rural retreat, far from the madding crowd.
+
+Like all cities, Madras has its drab--very drab!--quarters and its
+mean--very mean!--and straggling streets. Madras was not laid out on
+any definite plan. Like ancient Rome, it had in the beginning to
+attract outsiders to come and live there, and outsiders had to be
+given much license to do things their own way, and the city was
+allowed to grow just as it would; and in respect of many of its parts
+there is much room for criticism. But Madras is a fine city
+nevertheless, with a number of stately buildings, both public and
+private, and with great possibilities; and its 'Marina' can truly be
+called magnificent.
+
+But the greatest charm of Madras lies in its history. It was here that
+the foundations of the Indian Empire may be said to have been laid.
+The history of Madras is not a story of aggressive warfare. The
+settlers were gentle merchants, whose weapon was not the sword but the
+pen, and whose only desire it was to be left alone to carry on their
+business in peace. But the rising city was a continual mark for the
+hostility of commercial and political rivals, both European and
+Indian. It was a storm-centre, and the storms were often fierce; and
+the merchants were often compelled to meet force with force. Moreover,
+the merchants were men, and their doings therefore were by no means
+always without reproach; but, with due allowance for human weakness,
+the history of Madras is a history of which Madras may be proud. The
+city has grown from strength to strength, and in its story there is
+much inspiration. This little book has merely told the story in part;
+but it will have served its purpose if it has in any way helped the
+reader to realize that the story of Madras is the story of no mean
+city.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+_The figures refer to the pages_
+
+
+Admiralty House, 85
+
+Agri-Horticultural Society, 108
+
+Aix-la-Chapelle (Treaty), 28, 39
+
+Amir Mahal, 67
+
+Anderson, Dr. J., 107
+
+Anderson, Rev. J., 95
+
+Appar, 61
+
+Arcot, Siege of, 64
+
+Arcot, Prince of, 67
+
+Armagaum, 2, 5, 9
+
+Armenians, 19, 20
+
+Armenian street, 19, 59
+
+Assumption Church, 56
+
+Aurangzeb, 39, 64
+
+
+Bantam, 8
+
+Bentinck (Governor-General), 94
+
+Biden House, 86
+
+Black Town (Old), 19, 22, 25, 26, 29
+
+Black Town (New), 29, 31, 32
+
+Bound Hedge, The, 41
+
+Bourchier (Governor), 76
+
+Brahman Widows' Home, 109, 110
+
+
+Carew (R. C. Bishop), 95
+
+Carnatic, The, 63
+
+Cassa Verona, 39
+
+Chandragiri (Rajah), 6, 7, 63, 64
+
+Chepauk, 22
+
+Chepauk Palace, 22, 63-68
+
+China, 22
+
+China Bazaar, 22
+
+Chintadripet, 23
+
+Christian College, 87, 95
+
+Clive (Governor), 76, 77
+
+Clive, Robert, 17, 28, 64, 81
+
+Cochrane's Canal, 35
+
+Cogan, Andrew, 7, 9
+
+Convent Schools, 97, 98
+
+Cooum River, 6, 9, 12
+
+Coral trade, 20
+
+Corrie, Bishop, 101
+
+Corporation of Madras, 90
+
+Cyclone, 78, 79
+
+
+Dalhousie (Governor-General), 67, 98
+
+Danish Lutheran Mission, 92
+
+Da-ud Khan, 13, 14, 22
+
+Day, Francis, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 111
+
+De Haviland, Major, 104 (Note)
+
+Diamond trade, 20
+
+Doveton College, 98, 99
+
+Dupleix, 27, 39
+
+DuPre, Mr., 31, 32
+
+Dutch, The, 2, 5, 13, 39, 56
+
+
+Egmore, 1, 21, 31, (acquisition), 35, 41, (the Egmore Fort), 43-46
+
+Elliot, Hugh (Governor), 103
+
+Elphinstone Park, 38
+
+Engineering College, 87
+
+'English Burying Place', 51, 52
+
+Ephraim, Father, 57-59, 88, 89
+
+
+'Factory,' The, 12, 69, 71
+
+'Female Boarding School', 93
+
+Flag (E. India Co.), 81
+
+Fort St. George, 12-19, 27, 30
+
+French, The, 14, 15, 26, 27-31, 50
+
+
+'Garden-Houses', 70
+
+Gentoos (Telugus), 19, 89
+
+Georgetown, 29
+
+Georgetown Convent, 97
+
+Goa, 1, 58
+
+Golconda, King of, 13, 22, 35, 39, 64
+
+Government House, Madras, 74-77
+
+Government House, Guindy, 77
+
+Gyfford (Governor), 72
+
+
+Haidar Ali, 15, 22, 31-33, 40, 65
+
+Harbour, The, 79
+
+Harris High School, 99
+
+Hastings, Warren, 65, 78
+
+High Court, 104
+
+Hindu High School, 99
+
+Holmes, John, 92, 93
+
+Hyderabad, Nizam of, 64
+
+Hynmers, Joseph, 53
+
+
+Ice-House, The, 109
+
+
+Jews in Madras, 20, 21, 25
+
+
+Kuppam, 1
+
+
+Labourdonnais, 27
+
+Lally, 30, 31, 40, 50, 75
+
+Langhorn (Governor), 58
+
+Law College, 87
+
+Literary Society, 108
+
+Little Mount, 60, 61
+
+Luz Church, The, 62
+
+
+Macartney (Governor), 66
+
+Macaulay, 94
+
+Madras Literary Society, 108
+
+Madre-de-Deus Church, 62
+
+Male Asylum, 43, 44, 91
+
+Manucci, 9 (Note)
+
+Marina, The, 79, 87
+
+Marmalong Bridge, 20
+
+Mastan, 62
+
+Masulipatam, 2, 7
+
+Medical College, 87, 94
+
+Miller, Rev. Dr., 95
+
+Mohammed Ali (_See_ 'Walajah'), 64
+
+Mohammedans, 21, 22
+
+Mohammedan College, 87
+
+'Moors', 21, 24
+
+Murray, Mrs., 93
+
+Museum, The, 108, 109
+
+Mylapore, 1, 5, 6, 38, 61 (_See_ also San Thomé)
+
+
+Nattukottai Chetties, 21
+
+Naval Hospital Road, 85
+
+Nungumbaukam, 37, 41
+
+
+Observatory, The, 107
+
+'Old College', The, 99, 100
+
+Orde, Ralph, 89, 90
+
+
+Pachaiyappa's College, 87, 96, 97
+
+Parthasarathy Temple, 1
+
+Petrie, W., 107
+
+Peyton, Capt., 27
+
+Peyalvar, 61
+
+Pitt (Governor), 73
+
+Pondicherry, 15, 20, 21, 60
+
+Poonamallee (Naik), 6, 7
+
+Popham's Broadway, 9 (Note)
+
+Portuguese, The, 1, 2, 5, 6, 39, 56, 58, 112
+
+'Portuguese Burying Place', 59
+
+Pottinger, Sir H., 96
+
+Powney Family, The, 53
+
+Presentation Nuns, 97
+
+Presidency College, 87, 95, 96
+
+Pulicat, 2
+
+Pursewaukam, 35, 41
+
+
+Queen Mary's College for Women, 87
+
+
+Rajah Mahal (Chandragiri), 7
+
+Royapettah, 22
+
+
+St. Andrew's (The 'Kirk'), 103, 104
+
+St. Andrew's Church (R. C.), 58, 59
+
+St. Gabriel's High School, 95
+
+St. George's Cathedral, 101
+
+St. Mary's Cathedral (R. C.), 59, 60
+
+St. Mary's Charity School, 91
+
+St. Mary's Church (Fort), 17, 47-55
+
+St. Mary's High School, 95
+
+St. Matthias's Church, 20
+
+St. Patrick's Orphanage, 88
+
+St. Thomas's Mount, 61, 62
+
+San Thomé, 13, 31, 32,
+  (acquisition), 38-40,
+  (redoubt), 43,
+  Cathedral, 61, 104 (_See_ also 'Mylapore')
+
+Saunders (Governor), 73
+
+Sea-Gate, 80
+
+Senate House, 87, 96
+
+Slavery in Madras, 106
+
+S.P.C.K., 91
+
+
+Teachers' College, 98
+
+Thomas, St., 38, 60, 61
+
+Tipu Sultan, 31, 43, 65, 66, 75
+
+Tiruvalluvar, 61
+
+Tondiarpet, 35
+
+Trincomalee, 27
+
+Triplicane, 1, 21, 22, 32, (acquisition), 35
+
+Triplicane River, 6, 8 (_See_ 'Cooum')
+
+Triplicane Temple, 1
+
+
+Umdat-ul-Umara, 66
+
+University of Madras, 66
+
+Uscan, Peter, 19, 20
+
+
+Vepery, 1, (acquisition), 37-88
+
+Vepery Convent School, 98
+
+
+Walajah (Nawab), 22, 64-66
+
+Wall Tax Road, 33
+
+Warner, Rev. P., 58, 89
+
+Washermanpet, 24
+
+Weavers' Street, 23
+
+White Town, 19, 25, 27
+
+Widows' Home, The, 109
+
+
+Yale (Governor), 16, 23, 35, 53, 57, 90
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Madras, by Glyn Barlow
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Story of Madras, by Glyn Barlow
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Madras, by Glyn Barlow
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Story of Madras
+
+Author: Glyn Barlow
+
+Release Date: September 14, 2008 [EBook #26621]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STORY OF MADRAS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_1" id="pict_1"></a><img src="images/image_004.jpg" width="600" height="398"   alt="Chepauk Palace.
+(Southern half)"  /><br />
+<span class="caption">Chepauk Palace.<br />
+(Southern half)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h4>THE</h4>
+
+<h1>STORY OF MADRAS</h1>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h3>BY</h3>
+
+<h2>GLYN BARLOW, M.A.</h2>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4>WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS<br />
+BY THE AUTHOR
+</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<h3>HUMPHREY MILFORD</h3>
+<h3>OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS</h3>
+<h3>LONDON, BOMBAY, CALCUTTA, MADRAS</h3>
+<h3>1921</h3>
+
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="PREFACE" id="PREFACE"></a>PREFACE</h2>
+
+
+<p>This little book is not a "History of Madras," although it contains a
+good deal of Madras history; and it is not a "Guide to Madras,"
+although it gives accounts of some of the principal buildings in the
+city. The book will have fulfilled its purpose if it helps the reader
+to realize that the City of Madras is a particularly interesting
+corner of the world. This fact is often forgotten; and even many of
+the people who live in Madras itself, and who are aware that Madras
+has played an important part in the making of India's history, are
+strangely uninterested in its historic remains. They are eloquent
+perhaps in denouncing the heat of Madras and its mosquitoes and the
+iniquities of its Cooum river; but they have never a word to say on
+its enchanting memorials of the past. Madras has memorials indeed.
+Madras is an historical museum, where the sightseer may spend many and
+many an hour&mdash;in street and in building&mdash;studying old-world exhibits,
+and living for the while in the fascinating past. Madras is not an
+ancient city; its foundation is not ascribed to some mythic king who
+ruled in mythic times; it has no hoary ruins, too old to be historic
+and too legendary to be inspiring. But Madras is old enough for its
+records to be romantic, and at the same time is young enough for its
+earliest accounts of itself to be&mdash;not unsatisfying fables, but
+interesting fact. The story of Madras fills an absorbing page of
+history, and the sights of Madras are well<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span> worthy of sympathetic
+interest&mdash;especially on the part of those whose lines of life are cast
+in the historic city itself or within the historic presidency of which
+it is the capital.</p>
+
+<p>In the following pages certain places and events have been briefly
+described more than once with different details; any such repetitions
+are due to the fact that the Story of Madras has been told in a series
+of vignettes, appertaining to particular buildings or particular
+conditions, and each vignette had to be complete in itself. It is
+hoped that such repetitions will be of familiar interest, rather than
+tedious.</p>
+
+<p>In respect of the facts that are recorded, apart from general history,
+I am indebted principally to the valuable Records of Fort St. George,
+which the Madras Government have been publishing, volume by volume,
+during several years, and which I have studied with interest since the
+first volume appeared. Of other works that I have consulted, I must
+specially mention Colonel Love's "Vestiges of Madras," which is a very
+mine of information.</p>
+
+<p class="f2">G.B.</p>
+
+<p class="f3"><span class="smcap">Madras</span>, 1921.</p>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CONTENTS</h2>
+<table summary="Contents">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td><td class="tocpg f1">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="3"><a href="#PREFACE"><span class="smcap">Preface</span></a></td><td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_v">v</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="f1" colspan="4"><span class="smcap">Chap</span>.</td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">I.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><span class="smcap">Before the Beginning</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">II.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><span class="smcap">The Beginning</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">III.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><span class="smcap">Fort St. George</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">IV.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><span class="smcap">Development</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">V.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><span class="smcap">'The Wall'</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">VI.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><span class="smcap">Expansion</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_35">35</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">VII.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><span class="smcap">Outposts</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_41">41</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">VIII.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII"><span class="smcap">The Church in the Fort</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_47">47</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">IX.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_IX"><span class="smcap">Roman Catholic Madras</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">X.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_X"><span class="smcap">Chepauk Palace</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_63">63</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">XI.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XI"><span class="smcap">Government House</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_69">69</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">XII.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XII"><span class="smcap">Madras and the Sea</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">XIII.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII"><span class="smcap">The Story of the Schools</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">XIV.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV"><span class="smcap">Here and There</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td class="tocch">XV.</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td><a href="#CHAPTER_XV"><span class="smcap">'No Mean City'</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+<table summary="Illustrations">
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_1"><span class="smcap">Chepauk Palace</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#pict_1"><i>Frontispiece</i></a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="tocpg f1">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_2"><span class="smcap">Map of Madras, about</span> 1710</a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_10">10</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_3"><span class="smcap">Corresponding Map</span>, 1921</a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_4"><span class="smcap">Clive's House</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_16">16</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_5"><span class="smcap">A bit of the Black Town Wall</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_6"><span class="smcap">Central Gate of the Black Town Wall</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_28">28</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_7"><span class="smcap">A Magazine in the Black Town Wall</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_8"><span class="smcap">'The Old and the New'</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_9"><span class="smcap">Map of Madras</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_10"><span class="smcap">San Thom&eacute; Fort</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_11"><span class="smcap">Egmore fort (side view)</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_12"><span class="smcap">Remains of the Egmore Fort</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_13"><span class="smcap">St. Mary's, Fort St. George</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_49">49</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_14"><span class="smcap">Government House, Madras</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_15"><span class="smcap">The Sea Gate</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_80">80</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_23"><span class="smcap">The Company's Flag</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_16"><span class="smcap">Surf-Boat</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_17"><span class="smcap">University Senate House</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_18"><span class="smcap">Pachaiyappa's College</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_19"><span class="smcap">Doveton Protestant College</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_20"><span class="smcap">St. George's Cathedral</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_21"><span class="smcap">St. Andrew's (The 'Kirk')</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><a href="#pict_22"><span class="smcap">St. Thom&eacute; Cathedral</span></a></td>
+<td class="tocpg"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2>CHRONOLOGICAL NOTES</h2>
+<table class="tb1" summary="Chronological Notes">
+<tr><td>The East India Company established</td><td class="tocpg"><span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1600</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>First English settlement, at Masulipatam</td><td class="tocpg">1611</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Site of Madras acquired by Mr. Francis Day</td><td class="tocpg">1639</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The acquisition confirmed at Chandragiri by the Hindu
+'Lord of the Carnatic'</td><td class="tocpg">1639</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The Hindu lord of the Carnatic (the Raja of Chandragiri)
+dethroned by the Mohammedan Sultan of Golconda</td><td class="tocpg">1646</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The Company secure from Golconda a fresh title to their
+possessions</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>The Sultan of Golconda dethroned by the Moghul
+Emperor, Aurangzeb, who appoints a 'Nawab of the
+Carnatic'</td><td class="tocpg">1687</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The Company secure from a representative of the Emperor
+a fresh title to their possessions</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic, invests Madras for
+three months, and is finally bought off</td><td class="tocpg">1702</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>In Europe, England and France are engaged in the War
+of the Austrian Succession</td><td class="tocpg">1740-1748</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Dupleix, who is possessed with the idea of making France
+politically influential in India, is appointed Governor of
+Pondicherry</td><td class="tocpg">1742</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>In the war in Europe he sees an opportunity for fighting
+the English in India, and French forces under LaBourdonnais
+capture Madras</td><td class="tocpg">1746</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, by which Madras is restored to
+the English</td><td class="tocpg">1748</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Two Carnatic princes quarrel for the Nawabship</td><td class="tocpg">1749</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The French and the English in South India join in the
+quarrel on opposite sides. In the name of the claimant
+whom the English supported, Clive captures Arcot,
+the capital of the Carnatic, and then defends the town
+against the rival claimant and his French supporters</td><td class="tocpg">1749</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The French are defeated in the open field, and the
+struggle is at an end</td><td class="tocpg">1752</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>In Europe, England and France are engaged in the Seven
+Years' War</td><td class="tocpg">1756-1763</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>In India, Count Lally besieges Madras unsuccessfully for
+more than two months</td><td class="tocpg"><span class="smcap">a.d.</span> 1758-1759</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The English defeat the French at Wandiwash</td><td class="tocpg">1760</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The English capture Pondicherry</td><td class="tocpg">1761</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Treaty of Paris, by which Pondicherry is restored to the
+French</td><td class="tocpg">1763</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>(The town was captured again in 1786 and in 1803).</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Haidar Ali makes himself Sultan of Mysore about 1760,
+and reigns till his death, which occurred in</td><td class="tocpg">1781</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>Tipu, his son, succeeds him, and reigns till he is slain in
+defending his capital, Seringapatam, against an assault
+by the English</td><td class="tocpg">1799</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>(Madras was frequently disturbed by the raids of the
+father and of the son; and Tipu's death relieved
+the townsmen of constant anxiety.)</td><td>&nbsp;</td></tr>
+<tr><td>The Supreme Court of Judicature established at Madras</td><td class="tocpg">1801</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>In default of an heir, the Carnatic 'lapses' to the Company
+</td><td class="tocpg">1855</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The Madras Railway opened for traffic</td><td class="tocpg">1856</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The Indian Mutiny</td><td class="tocpg">1857-1859</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The Madras University instituted</td><td class="tocpg">1857</td>
+</tr>
+<tr><td>The High Court established</td><td class="tocpg">1861</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+<h3>ERRATUM</h3>
+<p class="center">On page 1, <i>for</i> 'Madraspatnam' <i>read</i> 'Madraspatam.'</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h2>
+
+<h2>BEFORE THE BEGINNING</h2>
+
+
+<p>Three hundred years ago, Madras, under the name of 'Madraspatnam' was
+a tiny rural village on the Coromandel Coast. Scattered about in the
+neighbourhood there were other rural villages, such as Egmore, Vepery,
+and Triplicane, which are crowded districts in the great city of
+Madras to-day. In Triplicane there was an ancient temple, a centre of
+pilgrimage, dating, like many village temples in India, from very
+distant times; this was the Parthasarathy temple, which is the
+'Triplicane Temple' still. A little fishing village called Kuppam,
+lying directly on the seashore, sent out, even as Kuppam does now, its
+bold fishermen in their rickety catamarans in perilous pursuit of the
+spoils of the sea. There was one small town in the neighbourhood,
+namely, the Portuguese settlement at Mylapore, where the tall fa&ccedil;ades
+of the several churches, peeping over the trees, formed a land-mark
+for the Portuguese ships that occasionally cast anchor in the roads.</p>
+
+<p>Such was the scene in 1639, the year in which our story of Madras begins.
+The Portuguese had already been in India for nearly a century and a half;
+and under their early and able viceroys they had made themselves powerful.
+The stately city of Goa was the capital of their Indian dominions, and they
+had settlements at Cochin, Calicut, Mylapore, and elsewhere. But the
+influence of the Portuguese was now on the wane. For nearly a century they
+had been the only European power in India and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span> the Eastern seas; but
+merchants in other European countries had marked with jealous eyes the rich
+profits that the Portuguese derived from their Eastern traffic, and
+competitors appeared in the field. First came the Dutch, who in India
+established themselves at Pulicat, some twenty-five miles north of
+Mylapore. Holland had lately thrown off the yoke of Spain, and was full of
+new-born vigour; and Dutch trade in the East&mdash;chiefly in the East India
+Islands&mdash;was pushed with a rancorous energy that roused the vain
+indignation of the decadent Portuguese. Six years later, in 1600, came the
+English. The English traders were employees of the newly-established East
+India Company, and were sent out to do business for the Company in the
+East; and they had to face the opposition of the Dutch as well as of the
+Portuguese. Their earliest enterprise was in the East India Islands, and it
+was eleven years before they gained their first footing in India, at
+Masulipatam. Here they established an agency and did very considerable
+business; later they formed a fortified sub-agency at Armagaum, a good way
+down the coast, not far from Nellore. At first their fortunes went well;
+but local rulers exacted ruinous dues, and at Armagaum in particular the
+local ruler, alarmed at the influence that the English merchants had
+gained, set himself so seriously to the work of handicapping their trade
+that Mr. Francis Day, the Company's representative at Armagaum and a member
+of the Masulipatam Council, proposed to the Council that he should be
+allowed to seek a field for commercial enterprise more favourable than
+either Armagaum or Masulipatam. To Mr. Francis Day was committed the
+business of finding a suitable spot for a fresh settlement.</p>
+
+<p>It was an important commission. The East India Company's existence
+depended entirely upon the profits of their trade. The Company's
+enterprise at Armagaum was<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span> hopeless; at Masulipatam it was very
+unsatisfactory; and Mr. Francis Day was appointed to find a place
+where the commercial prospects would be bright.</p>
+
+<p>It should always be remembered that the East India Company was
+established purely as a commercial association, with its head office
+in London, and that its employees in India were men with business
+qualifications, appointed to carry on the Company's trade. The prime
+concern even of an Agent or a Governor was the making of good bargains
+on the Company's behalf&mdash;and sometimes on his own&mdash;getting the best
+prices for European broadcloths and brocades, and buying as cheaply as
+possible Indian muslins and calicoes and natural produce, for
+exportation to London, where they were sold at a large profit. Any
+fighting in which the Company's servants engaged was merely incidental
+to the pursuit of business in a land in which the ruling sovereigns,
+as well as the many small chiefs, were constantly at war. It is a
+maxim that 'Trade follows the Flag;' but in the case of India the Flag
+has followed Trade.</p>
+
+<p>It is as a commercial man, therefore, that we must picture Mr. Francis
+Day setting out on his commercial mission; but it can be imagined that
+the English merchant, starting on an expedition in which he would be
+likely to seek personal interviews with rajas and nawabs and bid for
+their favour, set out in such style as would do the Company credit. In
+our mind's eye we picture Master Francis Day, Chief of Armagaum,
+standing on the deck of one of the Company's vessels lying at anchor
+in the Armagaum roads, and receiving his colleagues' farewells. His
+garb is that of a substantial merchant in the days of King Charles I.
+It has none of the extravagances that were the fashionable
+affectations of gay Cavaliers, but its sobriety makes it none the less
+smart. He wears a purple doublet and hose, a broad white collar edged
+with lace,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span> and a gracefully-short black-velvet cloak. Curly hair
+falls beneath his broad-brimmed black hat, but not in long and scented
+ringlets such as were trained to fall below the shoulders of
+fashionable gallants at King Charles's court. He is in every way a
+fitting representative of the Honourable Company.</p>
+
+<p>The bo'sun has piped his whistle, and the last good-byes have been
+said. The anchor's weighed, and the white sails are spread to the
+breeze. Master Day waves his hand to his colleagues in the surf-boat
+which is taking them shoreward, and the ship is headed to the south.
+The expedition is important&mdash;yes, and it was much more important than
+Master Day imagined; for something more serious than profits on muslin
+and brocade was on the anvil of fate.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h2>
+
+<h2>THE BEGINNING</h2>
+
+
+<p>Mr. Francis Day was not sailing southward without definite plans. As
+the result of enquiries for a promising spot for a new settlement, it
+was his purpose to see if there was a favourable site in the
+neighbourhood of the old established Portuguese settlement at
+Mylapore. The Portuguese authorities at Mylapore, with whom Mr. Day
+seems to have corresponded, were not unwilling to have English
+neighbours. The ill-success of the English merchants at Masulipatam
+had probably allayed any fears that they would be formidable rivals to
+Portuguese trade at Mylapore; and furthermore the Portuguese welcomed
+the idea of European neighbours who would be at one with them in
+opposition to the forceful Dutchmen at Pulicat, up the coast, who
+showed no respect, not even of a ceremonious kind, for any vested
+interests&mdash;commercial or administrative&mdash;to which the Portuguese laid
+claim.</p>
+
+<p>So Mr. Francis Day's vessel, standing no doubt well out to sea as it
+sailed past the foreshore of the Pulicat lagoon with its unfriendly
+Dutchmen, kept its course till the Mylapore churches were sighted and
+showed that the place where the first inquiries were to be made had
+been reached. The sails were furled and the anchors were dropped, and
+we may imagine that a salute was fired in honour of the King of
+Portugal, and was duly acknowledged.</p>
+
+<p>It was in winter that Mr. Francis Day arrived&mdash;a time of the year when
+Madras looks its best and when the sea-horses are not always at their
+wildest tricks; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span> Mr. Francis Day landed without accident, and was
+pleased with the scene. There are always breakers, however, on the
+Coromandel Coast, and Mr. Day found the landing so exciting that in
+his report to the Council at Masulipatam he wrote of 'the heavy and
+dangerous surf'. But after an inspection of the surroundings he was
+satisfied with the conditions; he considered that at the mouth of the
+Cooum river there was an advantageous site for a commercial
+settlement; and the local ruler, the Naik of Poonamallee, following
+the advice of the Portuguese authorities, encouraged him in the idea
+of an English settlement within the Poonamallee domain.</p>
+
+<p>It is not surprising that Mr. Francis Day was pleased with what he
+saw; for Madras is not without beauty. In those idyllic days,
+moreover, the Cooum river, which was known then as the Triplicane
+river&mdash;and which even to-day can be beautiful, although for the
+greater part of the year it is no more than a stagnant ditch&mdash;must
+have been a limpid water-way; and to Mr. Francis Day, seeing it in
+winter, in which season the current swollen by the rain sometimes
+succeeds in bursting the bar, it must have appeared almost as a noble
+river, rushing down to the great sea&mdash;a river such as might well have
+deserved the erection of a town on its banks. The fact that the
+Portuguese had been at Mylapore for more than a century showed that a
+settlement was full of promise&mdash;and the more so for men with the
+energy of the English Company's representatives; and the conditions
+were such that Mr. Francis Day felt himself justified in entering into
+negotiations with the Naik for the grant of an estate extending five
+miles along the shore and a mile inland.</p>
+
+<p>The negotiations were successful: but the Naik was subordinate to the
+lord of the soil, the Raja of Chandragiri, who was the living
+representative of the once great and magnificent Hindu empire of
+Vijianagar; and any grant<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span> that was made by the Naik of Poonamallee
+had to be confirmed by the Raja if it was to be made valid. Two or
+three miles from Chandragiri station, on the Katpadi-Gudur line of
+railway, is still to be seen the Rajah-Mahal, the palace in which the
+Raja handed to Mr. Francis Day the formal title to the land. The
+palace still exists, and it is a fine building, though partly in
+ruins. It is constructed entirely of granite, without any woodwork
+whatsoever; but its abounding interest lies not in its structure but
+in the fact that it was in this palace that the British Empire in
+India may be said to have been begotten.</p>
+
+<p>There is no little interest in the thought that it was the Raja of
+Chandragiri that delivered the deed of possession to Mr. Francis Day.
+The Raja was an obscure representative of a magnificent Indian Empire
+of the past; Mr. Francis Day was an obscure representative of a
+magnificent Indian Empire that was yet to be; and the document that
+the Raja handed to Mr. Francis Day was in reality a patent of Empire,
+transferred from Vijianagar to Great Britain. It was at Chandragiri
+that the British Empire in India was begotten; it was at Madras that
+the British Empire was born.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Francis Day had fulfilled his mission. He had secured territory
+where the conditions seemed to give promise of success; and his work
+was approved. His superior officer, Mr. Andrew Cogan, Agent at
+Masulipatam, came away from Masulipatam to take charge of Madras, and
+with the co-operation of Mr. Francis Day he set about the development
+of the Company's new possession.</p>
+
+<p>Of Mr. Francis Day's personal history we know little or nothing except
+that he was one of the Company's employees, and that he founded first
+an unsuccessful settlement at Armagaum&mdash;represented to-day by no more
+than a lighthouse&mdash;and afterwards a successful settlement at Madras.
+Later he was put in charge of the second<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span> settlement that he had
+founded, but he was relieved of, or resigned, the office at the end of
+a year. He then went to the Company's head-quarters at Bantam, in
+Java, and afterwards to England. What finally became of him is
+apparently unknown.</p>
+
+<p>It would probably be difficult to say whether Mr. Francis Day was a
+great man with great ideals, or was merely a shrewd man of business,
+reliable for an important commercial mission. Remembering that the
+Company was strictly a commercial concern, we may think it likely
+that, in fixing upon Madras as a site for the Company's business, he
+was guided almost entirely by the question of trade-profits, and that
+in his mind's eye there were no prophetic visions of imperial glory.
+And it has been asked indeed whether or not he really chose well in
+choosing Madraspatnam by the Triplicane river as the site of the
+proposed new settlement; for there are those who have argued that the
+prosperity of Madras has been due to dogged British enterprise and
+placid Indian co-operation, not to natural advantages, and that Madras
+has prospered in spite of Madras. We must bear in mind, however, the
+limited geographical knowledge of the times and the limitations to Mr.
+Francis Day's choice; and, whatever the verdict may be, the fact
+remains that the Madraspatnam of Mr. Francis Day's selection is now a
+vast city, and that the Empire of India which was born at Chandragiri
+is now a mighty institution.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h2>
+
+<h2>FORT ST. GEORGE</h2>
+
+
+<p>When the tract of land at Madras had been formally acquired, the
+European colony at Armagaum was forthwith shipped thereto (February,
+1640). According to accounts, the colony, with Mr. Andrew Cogan at the
+head, assisted by Mr. Francis Day and perhaps another chief official,
+included some three or four British 'writers,' a gunner, a surgeon, a
+garrison of some twenty-five British soldiers under a lieutenant and a
+sergeant, a certain number of English carpenters, blacksmiths and
+coopers, and a small staff of English servants for kitchen and general
+work.</p>
+
+<p>'Madras was a sandy beach ... where the English began by erecting
+straw huts.' So says an old-time chronicle,<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> the work of an early
+resident of Madras; and, if we take the word 'straw' in a broad sense,
+we can easily conceive the scene. In Madras the bamboo and the palmyra
+grow in abundance, furnishing materials for the quick provision of
+cheap and commodious accommodation; and we can picture the pilgrim
+fathers of Madras camped in palmyra-thatched mat-sheds on the north
+bank of the Cooum river, near the bar, the while that the houses
+within the plan of the fort are being built.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> The chronicle was written by Manucci, an Italian doctor
+of an adventurous disposition, who, after varied and surprising
+experiences in northern India, settled down in Madras in 1686, and
+married a Eurasian widow. 'Manucci's Garden,' where he lived, covered
+a large area which is now occupied by a number of the houses at the
+Law College end of Popham's Broadway, on the side that is nearest the
+sea. The garden was watered by a stream that used to flow where the
+Broadway tram-lines now hold their course. <i>Vide</i> map, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>.</p></div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_2" id="pict_2"></a>
+<a href="images/image_023_1.jpg"><img src="images/image_023.jpg" width="600" height="386" alt="MADRAS about 1710, A.D."  /></a>
+<span class="caption">MADRAS about 1710, A.D.</span></div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_3" id="pict_3"></a>
+<a href="images/image_024_1.jpg"><img src="images/image_024.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="Modern map (approximate) corresponding to the foregoing
+map. (1) Old black Town is no more. (2) the Fort was extended about
+1750. To provide ground, the Cooum was diverted. (3) The sea has
+receded."  /></a>
+<span class="caption">Modern map (approximate) corresponding to the foregoing
+map. (1) Old black Town is no more. (2) the Fort was extended about
+1750. To provide ground, the Cooum was diverted. (3) The sea has
+receded.</span></div>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The 'sandy beach' has been waked from its longaeval placidity. Trains
+of bullock-carts are lumbering along new-made tracks, bringing stone
+and laterite and bricks and timber from various centres; and endless
+files of coolies, with baskets on their heads, are bringing sand from
+the summer-dry edges of the bed of the Cooum river. In the foreground
+of the picture, scores of chattering village-labourers, from
+Triplicane and other hamlets hard by, are working under the directions
+of the mechanical employees of the Company, chipping stone, mixing
+lime, sawing timber, carrying bricks and stones and mortar, or laying
+them adroitly in place, with little dependence on line and level.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of a few months the buildings were sufficiently advanced
+for occupation. The main building was the 'factory,' which formerly
+signified a mercantile office; and it was here that the Company's
+chief officials, who were styled 'factors' (agents), assisted by
+writers and apprentices, transacted the Company's business, and were
+also lodged. Included amongst the buildings were warehouses for the
+Company's goods, and also barrack-like residences for the Company's
+subordinate British employees, civil and military, according to their
+rank.</p>
+
+<p>From the very beginning the settlement was called Fort St. George, but
+it was several years before the buildings were surrounded by a high
+and fortified wall. It was in no spirit of military aggression that
+the Company's agents enclosed their settlement with a bastioned
+rampart, from whose battlements big cannon frowned on all sides round.
+The Company's representatives were 'gentle merchaunts,' to whom peace
+spelt prosperity; but the times were lawless, and the gentle merchants
+were wise enough to recognize that days might come when it would be
+necessary to defend their merchandise and themselves, as well as the
+town of Madras, from the roving robber or the princely raider or the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>
+revengeful trade-rival, and that military preparedness was a dictate
+of prudence. The days came!</p>
+
+<p>On such occasions the excitement in Fort St. George must have been
+great. We can imagine the anxiety with which, when the sentry gave the
+alarm, the gentle merchants climbed upon the walls and looked out at
+the horsemen that were to be descried in the distance, and asked one
+another disconsolately whether it was in peace or in war that they
+came. A brief notice of some of the occasions on which the Fort was in
+danger will be interesting.</p>
+
+<p>Some fifty years after the Fort had been founded, a party of soldiers
+under the Commander-in-Chief of the Mohammedan King of Golconda
+pursued some of the King's enemies into Madras, "burning and Robbing
+of houses, and taking the Companies Cloth and goods," whereupon the
+Governor of the Fort sent them word that "he would use means to force
+them out of the Towne: Uppon which they retreated out of shott of the
+Fort." They returned, however, with additional strength, and for eight
+months they besieged the stronghold, but without success; and then
+they wearied of their hopeless endeavour, and marched away.</p>
+
+<p>Later, a Dutch force, supported by Mohammedan cavalry, besieged San
+Thom&eacute;, which was then in the hands of the French; and for the purpose
+of the siege they occupied Triplicane village, mounting their cannon
+within the walls of Triplicane Temple, which they used as a fort.
+During the several weeks of the siege of San Thom&eacute; a powerful Dutch
+squadron blockaded the coast of Madras; and, as Britain and Holland
+were at war in Europe, there was constant anxiety in Fort St. George;
+but the Dutchmen contented themselves with the capture of San Thom&eacute;,
+and were prudent enough to let Fort St. George alone.</p>
+
+<p>In the days of Queen Anne, Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic, at the
+head of a large force, was reported to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span> marching to Madras. In Fort
+St. George there was much anxiety as to the purpose of his visit, and
+'By order of the Governor and Council' various protective measures
+were immediately proclaimed. The proclamation is to be found in full
+in the Company's Minutes; and we find an amusing reminder of the
+Company's mercantile <i>raison d'&ecirc;tre</i> in the fact that immediately
+after the military edicts comes the order 'That all the Company's
+cloth be brought from the washers, washed and unwashed, to prevent its
+being plundered.' The Nawab came, and he uttered threats, but he was
+mollified with luxurious entertainment. Inviting himself and his dewan
+and his chamberlain to dinner with the Governor and Councillors in the
+Fort, he was received with imposing honours, and was feasted in the
+Council Chamber at a magnificent banquet. The minutes relate that
+after dinner he was "diverted with the dancing wenches," and finally
+he got "very Drunk." At breakfast the next day in the Company's
+'Garden,' His Highness again got "very drunk and fell a Sleep;" and a
+few days later he marched his army away. In his sober moments,
+however, he had been slyly measuring the Company's strength; and six
+months later he came back with a larger force, and blockaded Madras.
+He plundered all that he could, and on one occasion his spoil included
+"40 ox loads of the Company's cloth." For more than three months the
+blockade continued, and the Company's trade was entirely stopped, and
+provisions in Madras were exceedingly scarce. Da-ud Khan, eventually
+wearying of the unsuccessful siege, named the price that would buy him
+off; and the Council, fearing the wrath of the Directors at the loss
+of their trade, were glad to come to terms. The Company's Minute on
+the occasion is a brief but exultant record: 'The siege is raised!'</p>
+
+<p>In 1746 there was a siege of a more serious sort. England and France
+were at war in Europe, and suddenly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span> a squadron of French ships
+appeared off Fort St. George. After a week's siege, the English
+merchants capitulated to superior force, and they were all sent to
+Pondicherry as prisoners, and the French flag waved over Madras; but
+by the treaty which ended the war, Madras was restored to the Company.
+Twelve years later Madras was once more besieged by the French, but
+unsuccessfully, and eventually the French leaders marched their forces
+away, quarrelling among themselves over their ill-success.</p>
+
+<p>On several occasions, bodies of horsemen in the service of the
+adventurous Haidar Ali of Mysore, raided the country almost up to the
+Fort ditch, and were sometimes to be seen shaking their spears in
+defiance at the sentries on its walls.</p>
+
+<p>These were not the only occasions on which Fort St. George was
+assailed, but they suffice to show how necessary it was that the
+Company's employees and their wares should be housed within the walls
+of a fort.</p>
+
+<p>Fort St. George in the beginning was very small. Its external length
+parallel with the seashore was 108 yards, and its breadth was 100
+yards. When White Town, which grew up around it, was fortified, there
+was 'a fort within a fort' (<i>vide</i> Map, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>); but eventually the
+inner wall was demolished. At various times the outer wall has been
+altered, but the Fort as we have it to-day is the selfsame Fort St.
+George nevertheless, a glorious relic of bygone times, and verily a
+history in stone.</p>
+
+<p>The gates of Fort St. George open towards main thoroughfares of
+Madras, and it is permitted to anybody to pass in and out; but it is
+not visited nearly so much as its historic associations deserve. Let
+us pass within, and see if we cannot catch something like inspiration
+from the scene where so much history has been made, and where a great
+Empire was born.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="pict_4" id="pict_4"></a>
+<img class="img1" src="images/image_029.jpg" width="500" height="454" alt="CLIVE&#39;S HOUSE"  />
+<span class="caption">CLIVE&#39;S HOUSE</span></div>
+
+<p>An old-world feeling comes over us directly we leave the highroad and
+make our way down the sloped passage and across the drawbridge over
+the moat, past the massive gates and under the echoing tunnel that
+leads through the mighty walls. Within we see the parapets on which in
+bygone days the cannon thundered at the foe. We pass on into the great
+spaces of the Fort; and in our imagination we can people them with
+ghosts of the illustrious&mdash;or notorious&mdash;dead. It was here that, in
+the reign of King James the Second, Master Elihu Yale assumed the
+Governorship of Madras, did hard work in the Company's behalf but also
+made a large fortune for himself, lost his son aged four, quarrelled
+long and bitterly with his councillors, and was at last superseded. It
+was here that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span> Robert Clive, aged nineteen, newly arrived from
+England, entered upon his duties as an apprenticed writer in the
+Company's service, at a salary of five pounds per annum; it was here,
+in St. Mary's Church, eight years later, when he had won his first
+laurels, that he married the sister of one of the fellow-writers of
+his griffinhood; and it was here, in 'Clive's House,' which is still
+to be seen (now the Office of the Accountant-General), that he lived
+with his wife. The ancient Council Chamber is replete with historic
+associations; and St. Mary's Church offers material for many
+researchful and meditative visits. The streets have history in their
+names. 'Charles and James Street,' for example, which is a present-day
+combination of two streets of yore, is jointly commemorative of the
+days of the Merry Monarch and of his royal but unfortunate brother.
+Enough! It is not my purpose to produce a guide-book to Madras, but to
+promote an appreciation of the historic interests of the city; and I
+take it that the reader has realized that Fort St. George is
+interesting indeed.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h2>
+
+<h2>DEVELOPMENT</h2>
+
+
+<p>When an English colony had settled down in Fort St. George, it was
+only to be expected that a town would spring up outside. The personal
+necessities of the numerous colonists had to be supplied, and
+purveyors and bazaarmen and workmen made themselves readily available
+for the supply. The requirements in respect of the Company's
+mercantile business were yet greater. The Company's agents wanted not
+only native employees in their office&mdash;'dubashes' and 'shroffs' and
+clerks and interpreters and porters and peons, but they also wanted
+wholesale buyers of the cloth and other articles that they imported
+from England for sale, and also merchants who could supply them with
+large quantities of the Indian wares that the Company exported to
+England; and they were able to get the men that they wanted.</p>
+
+<p>A crowd attracts a crowd; and when once a town has begun to grow, it
+goes on growing of its own accord; and ten years after the acquisition
+of Madras, the population of the town was estimated at as many as
+15,000 souls. The Fort itself, moreover, had to be enlarged; for the
+growth of the Company's business meant that more and more factors and
+writers had to be brought out from England, and more and more
+warehouses had to be provided for the multiplied wares; and, moreover,
+the increasing lawlessness of the times necessitated a larger
+garrison. Outside the Fort, Indian and other immigrants flocked from
+near and far to settle down within the Company's<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span> domains, looking for
+profit under the white men's protection; and, with their enterprising
+spirit, they played no small part in the development of Madras.</p>
+
+<p>The town that grew up outside the little fort was divided into two
+sections&mdash;'the White Town' and 'the Black Town.' The boundaries of
+White Town corresponded roughly with what are now the boundaries of
+Fort St. George itself. The original Black Town&mdash;'Old Black
+Town'&mdash;covered what is now the vacant ground that lies between the
+Fort and the Law College, and included what are now the sites of the
+Law College and the High Court (<i>vide</i> Map, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>). The inhabitants of
+White Town included any British settlers not in the Company's service
+whose presence the Company approved, also all approved Portuguese and
+Eurasian immigrants from Mylapore, and a certain number of approved
+Indian Christians. White Town indeed was sometimes called the
+'Christian Town.' Black Town was the Asiatic settlement. The great
+majority of the original Indian settlers were not Tamilians but
+Telugus&mdash;written down as 'Gentoos' in the Company's Records.</p>
+
+<p>The Company's agents encouraged people of various races to reside in
+Madras; and the names of some of the streets and districts of the town
+are interesting testimonies as to the variety of the people who came.</p>
+
+<p>Armenian Street&mdash;which began as an Armenian burial-ground (<i>vide</i> Map,
+p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>)&mdash;is an example. Armenians from Persia, like their
+fellow-countrymen the Parsees, have a racial gift for commerce; and
+Armenian merchants had been in India long before the English arrived.
+Enterprising Armenian merchants settled in Madras in its early days to
+trade with the English colonists, and the Company's agents were glad
+to have as middlemen such able merchants who were in close touch with
+the people of the land. The most celebrated of the earlier Armenians
+in Madras was Peter Uscan, Armenian by race but Roman Catholic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> in
+religion, who lived in Madras for more than forty years, till his
+death there in 1751, at the age of seventy. He was a rich and
+public-spirited merchant. He built the Marmalong Bridge over the Adyar
+river, on one of the pillars of which a quaint inscription is still to
+be read, and he left a fund for its maintenance; he also renewed the
+multitude of stone steps that lead up to the top of St. Thomas's
+Mount. His inscribed tomb is to be seen in the churchyard of the
+Anglican Church of St. Matthias, Vepery, which in olden days was the
+churchyard of a Roman Catholic chapel. Within the last half-century
+the Armenian community in Madras has been rapidly declining, as the
+result, probably, of inability to cope with the hustling style of
+commercial competition in these latter days; and only a very few
+representatives of the race are now to be seen in the city.</p>
+
+<p>In Mint Street there is a small enclosure which is the remains of what
+was once a Jewish cemetery of considerable size; and the graves that
+are still to be seen are interesting reminders of the fact that in
+bygone times there was a Hebrew colony in Madras. In more than one of
+the Company's old records the Jews in Madras are referred to as being
+rich men, some of whom held positions of high civic authority. Some of
+them were English Jews, and others were Portuguese; and most of them
+were diamond merchants, on the look-out for diamonds from the mines of
+Golconda, which were formerly very productive. The English Jews
+exported diamonds to England, and imported silver and coral to Madras;
+coral was in great demand in India, and was sent out by Jewish firms
+in London. There is still a 'Coral Merchants' Street' in Madras, a
+continuation of Armenian Street, and it is a living reminder of the
+old Jewish colony. The Golconda mines eventually ceased to be
+productive, and Jewish diamond merchants are no longer to be seen in
+the city, and the Jewish colony<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span> has long since disappeared. Jews are
+notorious all the world over as money-lenders, and it may perhaps be
+wondered why none of them survived as money-lenders in Madras; but the
+fact that Coral Merchants' Street is now the habitat of Nattukottai
+Chetties, who are past-masters in the art of money-lending, suggests
+that even the Jews were unable to compete with Madras sowcars in the
+business of usury, and that the Chetties displaced the Jews who used
+to live in the street. The little Jewish cemetery in crowded Mint
+Street is an interesting spot. One of the antique tomb-stones has been
+caught in the branch of a tree and has been lifted high in air, and is
+a quaint sight; and the deserted little Hebrew graveyard itself is
+symbolic of the dispersion of the ancient people.</p>
+
+<p>It is a curious fact that the Company's employees in South India never
+spoke of Indian Mohammedans as Mohammedans or as Moslems or as
+Mussalmans, but always as 'Moors.' It is thus that the name of 'Moor
+Street' is to be accounted for. The original 'Moors Street' was a
+street in which Mohammedans used to live, and the fact that one
+particular street in a large city should have borne such a name is
+evidence of another fact, namely, that in the earlier years of Madras
+very few Mohammedans resided in the town. It should be remembered that
+Madraspatnam, Triplicane, Egmore, and the other hamlets that went to
+make up the city of Madras were all of them Hindu villages; and it was
+only now and again that Mohammedans, in some capacity or another,
+found their way into the town. In the earlier years of Madras a single
+mosque sufficed for all the few Mohammedans therein. The mosque was
+located in 'Moors Street' in old Black Town, a street that was the
+predecessor of the 'Moor Street' of to-day. It was not till nearly
+fifty years after the acquisition of the site of Madras that a second
+mosque was built&mdash;in Muthialpet;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> and these two small mosques supplied
+Mohammedan requirements for many years. The fact is that Madras was so
+frequently troubled by successive Mohammedan enemies&mdash;the King of
+Golconda; Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic; Haidar Ali, Sultan of
+Mysore; his son Tipu, and others&mdash;that the Company was disposed to
+regard all 'Moors' with mistrust, so much so that they discouraged
+Mohammedan residents; and a measure was passed with the special
+intention 'to prevent the Moors purchasing too much land in the Black
+Town.' There are large crowds of Mohammedans in Madras now, grouped
+especially in Chepauk and the adjoining Triplicane and Royapettah; and
+this is due to the fact that in later days Nawab Walajah of Arcot, who
+was friendly to the English, came and settled down in Madras. He built
+Chepauk Palace for his residence, and the many Mohammedans who
+followed him into the city formed the nucleus of a large Mohammedan
+colony.</p>
+
+<p>The name 'China Bazaar' appears early in the Madras Records; and it
+would seem to have been the place where Chinese crockery was on sale.
+Whether or not the salesmen were Chinese immigrants I cannot say; but
+the fact that another street in Madras bears the name of 'Chinaman
+Street' suggests that there was at one time a colony of pig-tailed
+yellow-men in the city. The supposition is not unlikely, for China was
+included within the sphere of the Company's commercial operations,
+with Madras as the head-quarters of the trade, and ships of the
+Company plied regularly between China and Madras. Tea was one of the
+articles of trade, but Chinese crockery was in great demand in India,
+and ship-loads of cheap China bowls and plates and dishes were
+imported; and valuable specimens of Chinese porcelain were highly
+esteemed by wealthy Indians&mdash;so much so that it is on record that one
+of the Moghul emperors had a slave put to death for having<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>
+accidentally broken a costly China dish which the emperor particularly
+admired.</p>
+
+<p>As the Company's trade was very largely in cloth, it can be understood
+that the Company's agents were eager to induce spinners and weavers to
+settle in Madras, so that cloth might be bought for the Company at the
+lowest possible prices from the weavers direct. Elihu Yale, who was
+one of the early Governors of the Fort, imported some fifty
+weaver-families and located them in 'Weavers' street', the street that
+is now known as Nyniappa Naick Street, in Georgetown. Some twenty-five
+years later, Governor Collet established a number of imported weavers
+in the northern suburb of Tiruvattur, in a village that was given the
+name 'Collet Petta' in the Governor's honour&mdash;a name that degenerated
+into 'Kalati Pettah'&mdash;'Loafer-land'&mdash;its present appellation. There
+was still a demand for more weavers, and eventually a large vacant
+tract was marked out as a 'Weavers' Town,' under the name of Chindadre
+Pettah&mdash;the modern Chintadripet. In order to attract weavers, houses
+were built at the Company's expense, which weavers were permitted to
+occupy as hereditary possessions. It was formally decreed that "None
+but Weavers, Spinners, and other persons useful in the Weaving trade,
+Painters (i.e. designers of patterns for chintz), Washers (bleachers),
+Dyers, Bettleca-merchants (beetle-sellers), Brahmins and Dancing
+women, and other necessary attendants on the pagoda (erected in the
+settlement) shall inhabit the said town." In Chintadripet to-day there
+are still many spinners and weavers; and one of the sights in
+Chintadripet&mdash;growing gradually more rare&mdash;is the spectacle of
+primitively-clad urchins or grown men spinning in the streets with
+primitive gear and in primitive fashion; and it is interesting to
+recall the fact that this has been going on in Chintadripet for nearly
+two centuries&mdash;an industry which the Company established.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Washermanpet is another such locality. It was not so called, as many
+people imagine, for being a land of dhobies (male laundresses). In the
+Company's vocabulary a 'washerman' was a man who 'bleached' new-made
+cloth; and the Company employed a number of bleachers. The bleaching
+process needed large open spaces&mdash;washing-greens&mdash;on which the cloth
+could be laid out in the sun to be bleached; and Washermanpet covered
+a considerable area.</p>
+
+<p>A great many more of the streets and districts of Madras have history
+in their names; but the few that we have dealt with suffice to
+exemplify the manner of the expansion of the city of Madras. We can
+picture the rustic suppliers crowding into the city to sell the
+produce of their fields; we can picture the humble weavers migrating
+into the city with their wives and their children, and with their pots
+and their pans and their quaint machines, in response to the Company's
+tempting invitation; we can picture the small tradesmen and the small
+mechanics setting up their humble shops in the new city in which they
+believed that fortunes were to be made. And in the higher grades of
+life we can picture the grave Armenian merchants, the submissive Jews,
+the mistrusted 'Moors,' and others seeking interviews with Stuart or
+Georgian-garbed factors of the Company, and eager all of them to turn
+the Company to profitable account.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h2>
+
+<h2>'THE WALL'</h2>
+
+
+<p>Skirting a thoroughfare in Old Jail Street, in North Georgetown, is
+still to be seen a part of 'the Wall' that protected Black Town in
+bygone days. This interesting remnant of the Wall of Madras might
+before long have been levelled to the ground, either by successive
+monsoons or by philistine contractors in want of 'material;' but, with
+a happy regard for a relic of Old Madras, the Madras Government have
+recently undertaken the task of preserving the ruin, which they have
+officially declared an 'historic memorial.'</p>
+
+<p>The 'Wall of Madras' is worthy of a meditative visit, but, in order
+that the meditation may be on an historic basis, it is necessary to
+know something about the Wall itself.</p>
+
+<p>We have seen that when the Company established themselves at Madras,
+in 1639, they first built a small fort for the protection of
+themselves and their goods. Around the walls of the Fort a number of
+Christians&mdash;English and Portuguese and Eurasians&mdash;settled down, and
+what was called 'White Town' came into being. Within a term of years
+this White Town was itself enclosed within fortified walls, which were
+finally identical with the wall round Fort St. George to-day. There
+was thus 'a fort within a fort;' but in course of time the inner wall
+was pulled down.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately outside the northern wall of White Town lay Black Town,
+inhabited by Indians&mdash;employees and purveyors of the Company, as well
+as merchants, shop-keepers, industrialists, and the rest. It should be
+borne in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> mind that the site of this original Black Town was
+altogether different from the site of the later Black Town, the
+'Georgetown' of to-day. Old Black Town, as already explained, extended
+from the northern wall of the Fort to what is now called the Esplanade
+Road, and it covered the ground that is now taken up by the Wireless
+Telegraph enclosure, the grounds of the High Court, and those of the
+Law College (<i>vide</i> map, p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>).</p>
+
+<p>Black Town was at first without any wall, and, as the times were
+unsettled, the place was exposed to the serious danger of being raided
+by any adventurous band of marauders. Very soon, however, a beginning
+was made of enclosing the town with a mud wall; and in the reign of
+Queen Anne a wall was built with masonry. Meanwhile, moreover,
+numerous houses and streets had sprung up outside the wall, on the
+site of the Georgetown of to-day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_5" id="pict_5"></a>
+<img src="images/image_039.jpg" width="600" height="331" alt="A BIT OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL"  />
+<span class="caption">A BIT OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL</span></div>
+
+<p>In 1746 the French captured Fort St. George; and they destroyed not
+only the Black Town Wall but also Black Town itself. It was a
+disastrous episode in the history of Madras. For six years the English
+and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> French had been at war in Europe, and the relations between
+the English and French colonists in India were naturally strained; but
+they were settlers within the dominions of Indian rulers, and,
+although both the English and the French had ships and soldiers for
+the protection of their settlements, they realized that they were not
+at liberty to make war upon each other. The settlers, moreover, were
+employees of mercantile companies, working for dividends; and war,
+with its calamitous expenditure, was not within their design. But
+Dupleix, the talented French Governor of Pondicherry, had ambitious
+ideas for the extension of French influence in India, and, in defiance
+of Indian rulers, war broke out. In the beginning there were several
+engagements at sea between a French squadron under Labourdonnais and
+an English squadron under Captain Peyton. The English squadron was
+worsted, and had to put into Trincomalee Harbour, in Ceylon, to refit.
+Thereupon Labourdonnais, after making quick preparations at
+Pondicherry, sailed for Madras; and the alarm in the Fort and in the
+city must have been great when his ships appeared off the coast and
+proceeded to bombard the settlement. His guns, however, did but little
+damage, and the citizens woke up the next morning to find, to their
+great content, that the enemy had sailed away during the night.
+Meanwhile Captain Peyton, having repaired his ships, was unaware of
+what had happened at Madras, and sailed from Ceylon to Bengal, without
+touching at Fort St. George. Possibly he was lured to Bengal by bogus
+messages of French origin; for, as soon as he was out of the way,
+Labourdonnais reappeared off Madras, better prepared than before.
+Having succeeded in landing a considerable force, he erected batteries
+on shore and from various points he bombarded White Town, which was
+now the actual Fort St. George. At the end of an unhappy seven days
+the garrison<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span> capitulated. The French marched into the Fort, and all
+the English residents, civil and military&mdash;including the Governor and
+the Members of Council, and also Robert Clive, who was then a young
+clerk&mdash;were sent to Pondicherry as prisoners of war.</p>
+
+<p>For nearly three years the French flag flew over Fort St. George,
+until, in accordance with the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, made between
+the combatants in Europe, Madras was restored to the Company.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="pict_6" id="pict_6"></a>
+<img src="images/image_041.jpg" width="500" height="464" alt="CENTRAL GATE OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL"  />
+<span class="caption">CENTRAL GATE OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL</span></div>
+
+<p>During their occupation the French had made great changes. Feeling the
+necessity of strengthening their position, their military commanders
+realized what had apparently not been recognized by the Company's
+employees, untrained in war&mdash;namely that a weak-walled native town
+lying right against the northern wall of Fort<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span> St. George was a
+serious danger. The houses offered convenient cover for any enemies
+that might attack the Fort; and, moreover, any disaffected or venal
+townsman was in a position to give the assailants valuable help. The
+French Governor set himself, therefore, to the deliberate destruction
+of Black Town. He first destroyed the Town Wall, and then&mdash;for a
+distance of 400 yards from the northern wall of White Town, or the
+present Fort St. George&mdash;he demolished every house. The area that is
+now represented by the Wireless Telegraph Station and the grounds of
+the High Court thus became an open space. Meanwhile they constructed a
+moat and glacis round the walls of White Town, which, with certain
+alterations, are the moat and glacis of Fort St. George to-day.</p>
+
+<p>The Records express the melancholy interest with which the Company's
+employees, when they re-entered Madras, took note of the changes that the
+enemy had made in the familiar settlement. The Councillors apparently
+conceived that it was in a wanton spirit of destruction that the greater
+part of Black Town had been wiped out; for they formally decided that the
+streets that had been destroyed should be rebuilt. It may be supposed
+however, that their military advisers counselled them otherwise; for, so
+far from the old houses being rebuilt, those that had been left standing
+were destroyed. The open space was allowed to remain; and 'New Black
+Town'&mdash;the modern 'Georgetown'&mdash;began to be developed. It continued to be
+called 'Black Town' until the visit of the Prince of Wales (afterwards King
+George V) to Madras in 1906 when it was formally re-named
+'Georgetown'&mdash;ostensibly in Prince George's honour, but in reality to meet
+the wishes of a number of the residents who sought an opportunity of
+getting rid of what they regarded&mdash;quite reasonably&mdash;as an objectionable
+name for the locality in which their lot was cast. The disappearance of the
+historic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> name is a matter for historic regret, but a concession had to be
+made to the intelligible wishes of residents.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="pict_7" id="pict_7"></a>
+<img src="images/image_043.jpg" width="500" height="381" alt="A MAGAZINE IN THE BLACK TOWN WALL"  />
+<span class="caption">A MAGAZINE IN THE BLACK TOWN WALL</span></div>
+
+<p>The Company, bearing in mind that the French had been able to capture
+Madras, realized that it was necessary to strengthen the defences of
+Fort St. George and also to provide adequate protection for the new
+native city that had grown up outside the Fort's protective walls and
+was absolutely without defence. The defences of the Fort were taken in
+hand at once, though the work was by no means completed; and the
+Directors in England readily sanctioned the construction of a wall
+round New Black Town. It was well that the security of the Fort was
+looked to without any long delay; for in 1758, a large French army
+under Count Lally besieged the Fort again&mdash;but so unsuccessfully that,
+after sixty-seven days of persistent endeavour, they beat a sudden
+retreat. It was a good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> many years, however, before the building of
+the wall round Black Town was taken seriously in hand&mdash;and then only
+because the Company had been given a succession of sharp warnings that
+it was absolutely necessary that new Black Town should be protected.</p>
+
+<p>The French themselves had given the first warning during the siege
+under Count Lally; for, although they were powerless against the Fort,
+they were able to enter Black Town without opposition, and they made
+use of some of the houses for the purpose of the siege. The next
+warning was given a few years later when Tipu, the son of Haidar Ali,
+Sultan of Mysore, after ravaging the country round Madras, came so
+near to the city itself that parties of his horsemen were scampering
+about in the suburb of Chintadripet. Tipu's raid induced the Company
+to bring forth the approved but long-shelved plans for a wall round
+Black Town; but there was still much more discussion than work. The
+Company needed yet another awakening; and they got a stern one two
+years later. We quote the story from the Company's official records,
+published by the Madras Government. It is contained in a minute in the
+official Diary of Fort St. George, dated the 29th of March, 1769,
+which runs as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>About 8 o'Clock this morning several Parties of the Enemy's
+(Haidar Ali's) horse appeared in the Bounds of this Place at
+St. Thom&eacute; and Egmore, from which latter place some guns were
+fired at them.... At eleven o'Clock a fellow was caught
+plundering at Triplicane and brought into Town, who gave
+Intelligence that Hyder himself was on the other side of St.
+Thom&eacute; with the greatest part of his horse. In the afternoon
+Advice came that the Enemy's horse were moving from St.
+Thom&eacute; round to the Northward with a design, as was supposed,
+to make an attempt on the Black Town.</p></div>
+
+<p>It would have been difficult to have defended the unwalled town; and
+on the following day the Council of Fort St. George sent Mr. DuPre,
+Chief Councillor and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span> succeeding Governor, to Haidar Ali's camp, on
+the other side of the Marmalong Bridge, to come to terms with the
+invader; and within three days a treaty had been made. The treaty,
+said Mr. DuPre, writing to a friend, "will do us no honor: yet it was
+necessary, and there was no alternative but that or worse."</p>
+
+<p>After this humiliation the building of the Wall was regarded as a
+pressing necessity; and within a year the work was practically
+finished.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_8" id="pict_8"></a>
+<img src="images/image_045.jpg" width="600" height="323" alt="&#39;THE OLD AND THE NEW&#39;
+
+Corner of the Medical School built into a portion of the Black Town
+Wall."  />
+<span class="caption">&#39;THE OLD AND THE NEW&#39;<br />
+Corner of the Medical School built into a portion of the<br />
+Black Town Wall.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was well indeed that the work was done; for a few years afterwards,
+on the 10th of August, 1780, Haidar's cavalry raided San Thom&eacute; and
+Triplicane, killing a number of people; and the terror in Black Town
+was so great that crowds of the inhabitants took flight. Fortunately,
+however, the Governor was able to issue the following notification for
+the reassurance of the public:&mdash;'A sufficient number of guns have been
+mounted on the Black Town wall,' and 'nothing has been omitted that I
+can think of for the security of the Black Town.' Haidar was not<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>
+sufficiently venturesome to attack the fortified town; but the terror
+of the inhabitants was by no means at an end; for a little later came
+the disastrous news that a British force sent out to meet the invader
+had been cut to pieces at Conjeevaram. Eventually, however, the
+Mysoreans were defeated, and the treaty of peace was a triumph for the
+Company.</p>
+
+<p>The long delay in the building of the Wall was chiefly due to the fact
+that the representatives of the Company, being commercial men,
+naturally gave their chief attention to the Company's mercantile
+business, and were apt to disregard the immediate necessity of
+expensive schemes which the Company's military officers put forward as
+strategic requirements. When the Wall was first talked about, after
+the recovery of Madras from the French, the Directors in England, who
+always kept a tight hand on the Company's purse-strings, declared that
+the inhabitants of Black Town ought to be made to pay for the cost of
+their own defences, and should be taxed accordingly; and the name of
+the 'Wall Tax Road,' which runs alongside the Central Station to the
+Salt Cotaurs, is a standing reminder of the Directors' decree, while
+the road itself is an indication of the alignment of the western wall.
+The people protested indignantly against being taxed for the purpose,
+and, as a matter of fact, the representatives of the Company in India
+doubted whether they would be within their legal rights in compelling
+them to pay; and the tax was never actually levied. What with the Wall
+Tax Road on the west and the seashore on the east, the existing
+remains on the north, and the Esplanade on the south, it is not
+difficult to form a general idea of the direction of the four sides of
+the wall within which the later Black Town was enclosed.</p>
+
+<p>Such is the story of 'The Wall;' and the remains are an interesting
+relic of lawless times when at any minute it was possible that crowds
+of terror-stricken folk would<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span> suddenly be pouring through the
+gateways of the city at the alarming news that strange horsemen were
+dashing here and there in one or another of the suburbs, demanding
+money and jewels from the people and slaughtering unhappy individuals
+who tried to evade a response.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h2>
+
+<h2>EXPANSION</h2>
+
+
+<p>We have seen that the Company were careful to develop both White Town
+and Black Town. They were not content, however, with mere
+developments, for they took pains also to extend their territorial
+possessions.</p>
+
+<p>The strip of land that was acquired by Mr. Francis Day was not large.
+Roughly, it extended along the seashore from the mouth of the Cooum to
+an undefined point beyond the present harbour, somewhere in the
+neighbourhood of Cassimode, and inland as far as what was called the
+North River, which is now represented by Cochrane's Canal&mdash;the canal
+that runs between the Central Station and the People's Park. It will
+be interesting to note how some of the various other parts of the
+present city came into the Company's possession.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_9" id="pict_9"></a>
+<img src="images/image_049.jpg" width="600" height="921" alt="MADRAS (APPROXIMATELY)"  />
+<span class="caption">MADRAS (APPROXIMATELY)</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On several occasions the representatives of various dynasties that
+were successively supreme over Madras made grants of additional land
+to the Company. The village of Triplicane was the first
+addition,&mdash;&mdash;some twenty years after the acquisition of Madras. The
+village was granted by the representative of the Mohammedan King of
+Golconda, for an annual rent of Rs. 175, which ceased to be paid when
+the Golconda dynasty shortly afterwards came to an end. Later, in
+compliance with a petition by Governor Elihu Yale to the Emperor
+Aurangzeb, the Company received a free grant of 'Tandore (Tondiarpet),
+Persewacca (Pursewaukam), and Yegmore (Egmore).' Still later, in the
+reign of Aurangzeb's son and successor, the village of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span> Lungambacca
+(Nungumbaukam), now the principal residential district of Europeans in
+Madras, was granted to the Company, together with four adjoining
+villages, for a total annual rent of 1,500 pagodas (say Rs. 5,250).
+The Emperor's officers argued that the rent ought to have been larger,
+but the Company, conforming to the spirit of corruption that was in
+fashion, were wily enough to send by a Brahman and a Mohammedan
+conjointly a sum of Rs. 700 'to be distributed amongst the King's
+officers who keep the Records, in order to settle this matter.' The
+village of Vepery&mdash;variously called in olden documents Ipere, Ypere,
+Vipery, and Vapery&mdash;lay between Egmore and Pursewaukam; and the
+Company, being naturally desirous of consolidating their territory,
+proceeded at once to try to obtain a grant of the place; but
+successive efforts on the part of Governor Elihu Yale came to naught;
+and it was not till much later (1742) when the Nawab of Arcot was lord
+of the soil, that Vepery was acquired from the Nawab. The manner of
+its acquisition is interesting. The preceding Nawab had just been
+murdered, and the Carnatic army disowning the ambitious rival who had
+murdered him, proclaimed the dead Nawab's son as his successor. The
+new Nawab was but a youth, and he was residing at the time in one of
+the big houses in Black Town. The Company were politic enough to
+celebrate the lad's accession with grand doings. They escorted him in
+a splendid procession to the Company's Gardens, which were situated
+along the bank of the river Cooum, where the General Hospital and the
+Medical College now stand. In the Gardens there was a fine house,
+containing a spacious hall, which the Company had specially designed
+for great occasions; and there the lad's accession was formally
+announced; and finally he was escorted in procession back to his
+dwelling. The Company profited by their politic demonstration; for, in
+return for their courtesies to the young<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span> Nawab, the lad gratified
+their desires by making them a rent-free grant of the village of
+Vepery, and also of Perambore and other lands. It may be added that
+the boy-king was unfortunate; for he was murdered within two years of
+his accession, at the instance of the man who had murdered his father.</p>
+
+<p>San Thom&eacute; was acquired in 1749; and the story of the acquisition is
+not without interest. The names 'San Thom&eacute;' and 'Mylapore' are often
+used as alternative designations for one and the same locality; but in
+bygone days the two names represented quite different places. Mylapore
+was a very ancient Indian town, which seems to have been in existence
+long before the birth of Christ. San Thom&eacute; was a seventeenth century
+Portuguese settlement close by. It is an old tradition that St. Thomas
+the Apostle was martyred just outside Mylapore; and when the
+Portuguese first came to India some of them visited Mylapore to look
+for relics of the saint. They found some ruined Christian churches,
+and also a tomb which they believed to be the tomb of St. Thomas; and
+soon afterwards a Portuguese monastery was established on the spot. A
+Portuguese town grew up around the monastery; and in course of time
+the town became a commercial centre, and was surrounded with a
+fortified wall, and was the Portuguese settlement of San Thom&eacute;, over
+against the Indian town of Mylapore. An Italian dealer in precious
+stones who visited India in the sixteenth century wrote of San Thom&eacute;
+that it was 'as fair a city' as any that he had seen in the land; and
+he described Mylapore as being an Indian city surrounded by its own
+mud wall. Mylapore was thus in effect the Black Town of San Thom&eacute;; but
+in later days the two towns were combined. When the English came to
+Fort St. George, the power of the Portuguese was already waning; and
+the development of the influence of the English at Madras meant a
+further lessening of the influence of the Portuguese<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> at San Thom&eacute;;
+and it was a natural consequence that San Thom&eacute;, including Mylapore,
+became a prey to successive assailants. Its first captor was the lord
+of the soil, the Mohammedan King of Golconda. Next, the French took it
+from Golconda; and two years later Golconda, with the help of the
+Dutch, recaptured it from the French. The Dutch were content with a
+share of the plunder for their reward, and left Golconda in
+possession. On the self-interested advice of the English at Fort St.
+George, Golconda destroyed the fortifications. He then put the town up
+for sale. The Company were prepared to buy it, and so were the
+Portuguese; but a rich Mohammedan named Cassa Verona found favour with
+Golconda's Moslem officials, and secured the town on a short lease.
+Next it was leased to the Hindu Governor of Poonamallee; and then for
+a big price it went back again to the Portuguese. Towards the end of
+the seventeenth century the great Moghul Emperor Aurangzeb dethroned
+the lord of the soil, the King of Golconda; and, although the
+Portuguese were not turned out of San Thom&eacute;, it was now a part of the
+Moghul Empire, and was put in charge of a Moslem ruler. After
+Aurangzeb's death, the Moghul Empire broke up, and the Nawab of Arcot
+eventually became independent, and San Thom&eacute; was part of his
+dominions. In 1749, when Madras, after the French occupation, was
+restored to the English by an order from Paris, in accordance with the
+treaty of Aix la Chapelle, Dupleix at Pondicherry was bitterly
+disappointed at the rendition, and he formed designs for the
+acquisition of San Thom&eacute; for France, as a set-off for the loss of
+Madras. The English at Fort St. George had information of his schemes,
+and, being in no way desirous of having aggressive Frenchmen for close
+neighbours, they forestalled Dupleix by persuading the Nawab to make
+the Company a grant of 'Mylapore, <i>alias</i> St. Thom&eacute;,' on condition
+that the Company should undertake to help the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span> Nawab with men and
+money whenever he should call upon them to do so. It was thus that San
+Thom&eacute; became a British possession; and, although it was afterwards
+ravaged successively by the French under Count Lally and by Haidar Ali
+of Mysore, it has remained a British possession ever since.</p>
+
+<p>We have said enough to show the manner in which the different parts of
+the modern city of Madras came into the hands of the English. The
+methods were not always wholly admirable; but we must remember that
+the East India Company was a mercantile association, fighting for its
+existence under diamond-cut-diamond conditions; and we must remember
+also that, although its representatives at Madras were sent out to
+India not to rule but to earn dividends for the shareholders, yet the
+Company's rule over Madras was so upright that crowds of people were
+continually flocking into Madras to enjoy its benefits.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+<h2>OUTPOSTS</h2>
+
+
+<p>The suburban lands which were successively granted to the Company were
+not protected either by the walls of Fort St. George or by the walls
+of Black Town, and it was accordingly necessary that special means
+should be adopted for their defence. The Company's military engineers
+devised the erection of small suburban forts ('redoubts'),
+block-houses, and batteries, which were to be mounted with cannon and
+to be in charge of an appropriate garrison, and were to serve as
+outposts for the protection of the outlying quarters of the city.</p>
+
+<p>On the northern side of Black Town the batteries and block-houses were
+linked together by a thick-set hedge of palmyras, bamboos,
+prickly-pear, and thorny bushes, such that neither infantry nor
+cavalry could force a way through. Later it was decreed that the
+'Bound Hedge,' as it was called, should be extended so as to encircle
+the whole city. The work, however, was never completed, for as late as
+1785 an influential European inhabitant of Madras, addressing the
+Government on the subject of the insecurity of the city, wrote:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>"Was the Bound Hedge finished, no man could desert. No Spy
+could pass; provisions would be cheap. All the Garden
+Houses, as well as thirty-three Square Miles of Ground,
+would be in security from the invasions of irregular Horse."</p></div>
+
+<p>Of the suburban fortifications the two largest were at Egmore and at
+San Thom&eacute;. Next in size were those at Nungumbaukam and at Pursewaukam.
+Of smaller works there were many. Of the fortifications at
+Nungumbaukam and at Pursewaukam all traces have disappeared; but of
+the larger ones at San Thom&eacute; and at Egmore interesting remains are
+still to be seen.</p>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span></p>
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_10" id="pict_10"></a>
+<img src="images/image_055.jpg" width="600" height="426" alt="San Thom&eacute; Fort.
+
+A PORTION OF THE EXTENSIVE RUINS IN THE GROUNDS OF &#39;LEITH CASTLE,&#39; SAN
+THOME"  />
+<span class="caption">San Thom&eacute; Fort.
+
+A PORTION OF THE EXTENSIVE RUINS IN THE GROUNDS OF &#39;LEITH CASTLE,&#39; SAN
+THOME</span></div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span></p>
+<p>The remains of the San Thom&eacute; Redoubt stand within the grounds of
+'Leith Castle,' a house that lies south of the San Thom&eacute; Cathedral.
+The remains are ruins, but the massive walls fifteen feet high and
+three feet thick, are suggestive of the purpose for which the redoubt
+was built. The 'Records' show that the San Thom&eacute; Redoubt, built in
+1751, was a very complete fortification, with a moat forty feet wide,
+a glacis, and all the other works that are usual in respect of a well
+appointed building of the kind. That it was of a large size is to be
+seen in the fact that, when the French under Count Lally were
+besieging Madras, an English officer was officially directed 'to stay
+in St. Thom&eacute; Fort with the Europeans belonging to Chingleput, four
+Companies of sepoys, and fifty horse.'</p>
+
+<p>The Egmore Redoubt was a good deal older than that of San Thom&eacute;. It
+was constructed in the days of Queen Anne. It was intended, of course,
+for the special protection of Egmore; but in those distant days when
+trips to the hills were unknown, even Egmore was a health-resort in
+respect of the crowded Fort St. George, and it was officially reported
+that the Egmore Redoubt might 'serve for a convenience for the sick
+Soldiers when arrived from England, for the recovery of their health,
+it being a good air.' The Egmore Redoubt was evidently a need; for the
+'Records' tell us that on various occasions its guns were fired at the
+enemy. The enemy were for the most part horsemen of Haidar Ali or of
+Tipu, his son and successor; and in 1799 the year in which Tipu was
+killed, the need for the Redoubt disappeared. Adjoining the precincts
+of the Redoubt were the premises of the Male Asylum, an Anglo-Indian
+Orphanage, which required to be extended, and in the following year
+the Madras<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span> Government gave the Redoubt to the Asylum, and the two
+premises were turned into a common enclosure. In the beginning of the
+present century the Directors of the Asylum sold their Egmore estate
+to the South Indian Railway Company and removed to new premises in the
+Poonamallee road; and what remains of the Egmore Redoubt is now the
+habitation of some of the Railway employees.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_11" id="pict_11"></a>
+<img src="images/image_057.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="THE EGMORE FORT (SIDE VIEW)"  />
+<span class="caption">THE EGMORE FORT (SIDE VIEW)</span></div>
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+<p>The remains are of quaint interest. At some date or another the
+authorities of the Asylum had an upper story added to one of the
+military buildings, with the result that there is the strange
+spectacle of a row of windowed chambers on the top of a buttressed and
+battlemented wall, windowless and grim. The upper story has been built
+into the battlements in such a manner that the outline of the
+battlements is still clearly visible, and the building is a composite
+reminder of old-time war and latter-day peace. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>The whole of the
+lower part of the building, with its massive walls and its frowning
+aspect, is of curious and suggestive interest; and the ground around,
+which is extensively bricked, is a reminder of the fact that the
+Redoubt in its original form was large indeed. The place provides
+interesting material for antiquarian speculation.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_12" id="pict_12"></a>
+<img src="images/image_058.jpg" width="600" height="379" alt="REMAINS OF THE EGMORE FORT.
+
+The building is in the Male Asylum Road, and is now the residence of
+some railway employees. Its upper part has been built upon a
+battlemented wall, and doors have been let into the wall. The outlines
+of the original wall and of some of the battlements can be easily
+traced."  />
+<span class="caption">REMAINS OF THE EGMORE FORT.
+
+The building is in the Male Asylum Road, and is now the residence of
+some railway employees. Its upper part has been built upon a
+battlemented wall, and doors have been let into the wall. The outlines
+of the original wall and of some of the battlements can be easily
+traced.</span></div>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII</h2>
+
+<h2>THE CHURCH IN THE FORT</h2>
+
+
+<p>St. Mary's Church within the walls of Fort St. George is the oldest
+Protestant church in India, and, except for some of the oldest bits of
+the Fort walls, it is the oldest British building in Madras city, and
+even in India itself. It dates from 1680.</p>
+
+<p>When Madras was rising upon its foundations, the Company's employees
+were not only without a church but also without a pastor; for the
+Company did not think it necessary to go to the expense of providing a
+chaplain for so small a community. But it was an age in which
+religious services on Sunday were seldom neglected; and it may be
+conceived that, in default of a chaplain at Fort St. George, the
+Governor himself or his delegate read the Church Service on Sunday
+morning and evening, in the hearing of the assembled employees of the
+Company, and perhaps also some selections from the published sermons
+of distinguished Elizabethan divines.</p>
+
+<p>In the Portuguese settlement of San Thom&eacute; there were numerous Roman
+Catholic priests, and some of them ministered to the numerous
+Portuguese and other Roman Catholic residents of White Town around
+Fort St. George, as also of Black Town close by. So numerous indeed
+were the Roman Catholic residents of White Town within three years of
+the foundation of the Fort that the Governor permitted a French priest
+to build a chapel in the Town. It was thus not a little anomalous that
+in a British settlement, founded under the auspices of such a
+redoubted<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> antipapist as Queen Elizabeth, there was a Roman Catholic
+church with a priest in charge, yet neither a church nor a pastor of
+the established religion.</p>
+
+<p>In 1645, however, the Company's Agent at Fort St. George forwarded to
+higher authority "a petition from the souldiers for the desireing of a
+minister to be here with them for the maintainance of their soules
+health;" and in the following year a chaplain was sent out. There was
+still no Protestant church, but the celebration of religious services
+was held in careful regard; for the chaplain read morning and evening
+prayers every day of the year in a room in the Fort appointed for the
+purpose, and it was compulsory upon all the youthful employees of the
+Company to attend regularly, under the penalty of a fine.</p>
+
+<p>Chaplains came and chaplains went, and for some sixteen years they
+continued their ministrations in the room in the Fort. A small church
+was then built; but, with the Company's developing trade, the
+population of White Town increased so rapidly that before long the
+little church was too small for the number of the worshippers. When
+Mr. Streynsham Master, after a long term of years in the Company's
+service, was appointed Governor of Madras, one of his first acts was
+the circulation of a voluntary subscription paper for the building of
+a church that should be worthy of the Company's rapidly developing
+South Indian possession. He headed the list with a subscription of a
+hundred pagodas (Rs. 350), a sum which represented much more than it
+does now; for it was more than Mr. Streynsham Master's pay for a whole
+month as Governor of Madras. Subscriptions from the Councillors, as
+well as from the factors and writers and apprentices, were
+proportionately big; and on the 28th of October, 1680, St. Mary's
+Church was solemnly opened, and the guns of the Fort roared forth loud
+volleys in honour of the event. The steeple and the sanctuary were<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>
+added later; but, for the rest, the present church, except for
+details, is the very same church that was built some two hundred and
+fifty years ago, in the reign of Charles II.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_13" id="pict_13"></a>
+<img src="images/image_062.jpg" width="600" height="494" alt="ST. MARY&#39;S, FORT ST. GEORGE."  />
+<span class="caption">ST. MARY&#39;S, FORT ST. GEORGE.</span></div>
+
+<p>It is interesting to note that the church at Madras was built during a
+period when in London a great many churches were being built&mdash;or
+rebuilt&mdash;after the Great Fire. Church-building was in vogue, with the
+distinguished Sir Christopher Wren as the builder in chief; and it is
+not unlikely that what was being done so energetically in London was
+one of the influences that inspired Mr. Streynsham Master to be so
+earnest over a scheme for building a church in Madras. It may be
+noted, moreover, that St. Mary's Church within the Fort at Madras is
+of a style that was very much in fashion in London at the time.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In deciding to build a new church, the Governor and his colleagues
+realized that if ever the Fort should be bombarded, a shot from the
+enemy's guns was as likely to fall upon the church as upon a fortified
+bastion; so the roof of the church was made 'bomb-proof,' in
+preparation for possibilities. Events proved the reasonableness of the
+measure; for on more than one occasion the church was a factor in war.</p>
+
+<p>In 1746, when the French were besieging Fort St. George, the British
+defenders lodged their wives and children and their domestic servants
+in the bomb-proof church, and they took refuge there themselves in the
+intervals of military duty. During the three years that they occupied
+Madras, the French, fearing that they might be besieged in their turn,
+used the bomb-proof church as a storehouse for grain and as a
+reservoir for drinking-water. The church organ they sent off to
+Pondicherry as one of the spoils of war.</p>
+
+<p>At the end of the war Madras was restored to the Company, but a few
+years later the Fort was besieged by the French again. During the
+interval, some of the houses had been made bomb-proof, and in these
+the women and children were lodged, but St. Mary's Church was used as
+a barrack, and its steeple as a watch-tower. Lally, the French
+commander, failing to capture Madras, had to march away with his hopes
+baffled; but, notwithstanding its bomb-proof roof, the church, as also
+its steeple, had been badly damaged during the destructive siege, and
+the necessary repairs were considerable.</p>
+
+<p>A few years later the English had their revenge. They captured
+Pondicherry, and they destroyed its fortifications. They recovered,
+with other things, the organ that had been looted from St. Mary's;
+but, as a new one had in the meanwhile been obtained for St. Mary's,
+the recovered instrument was sent to a church up-country. According<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>
+to accounts, moreover, they took toll for the Frenchmen's loot by
+sending to St. Mary's from one of the churches in Pondicherry the
+large and well-executed painting of the 'Last Supper,' which is still
+to be seen in the church. The origin of the picture is not known for
+certain; but it is believed with reason to be a fact that it was a
+spoil of war from Pondicherry on one or another of the three occasions
+on which that town was captured by the British.</p>
+
+<p>The stray visitor who wanders round St. Mary's without a guide is apt
+to be astonished at what he sees in the churchyard. A multitude of old
+tomb-stones, of various ages and with inscriptions in various tongues,
+lie flat on the ground, as close to one another as paving-stones, in
+such fashion that the visitor must wonder how there can be sufficient
+room for coffins below. As a matter of fact, the coffins and their
+contents are not there, and the inscriptions of 'Here lyeth' and 'Hic
+jacet' are not statements of facts. The explanation is an interesting
+story, which is worth the telling.</p>
+
+<p>In the Company's early days, the 'English Burying Place,' (<i>vide</i> Map,
+p. <a href="#Page_10">10</a>) lay a little way outside the walls of White Town, in an area
+which is now occupied by the Madras Law College with its immediate
+precincts. Later, when a wall was built round old Black Town, the
+Burial Ground was included within the enclosure of the wall. An
+English cemetery in a corner of an Indian town was not likely to be
+treated with any particular respect; and on various counts the
+'English Burying Place' was a sadly neglected spot. Nearly every
+Englishman that died in Madras was an employee of the Company, and was
+a bachelor, without any relatives in India to mourn his loss. His
+colleagues gave him a grand funeral; but his death meant promotion for
+some of those selfsame colleagues, and his place in the Company's
+service was filled up by an official 'Order' on the following day. A
+big monument<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> in the old-fashioned brick-and-mortar ugliness was
+piously built over his remains, and possibly there was genuine regret
+at a good fellow's loss; but water is less thick than blood, and there
+was no near one or dear one in India to take affectionate care of the
+big tomb; so it was left to itself to be taken care of by the people
+of Black Town. An unofficial description of Madras dated 1711 speaks
+of the 'stately Tombs' in the English cemetery, and an official Record
+of the same year speaks of the unhallowed uses to which the stately
+tombs were put. The Record says that "Excesses are Comitted on
+hallowed ground," and that the arcaded monuments were "turned into
+receptacles for Beggars and Buffaloes." We have seen in a previous
+chapter that the French, when they captured Madras, demolished the
+greater part of old Black Town together with its wall, and that the
+English, when they were back in Madras, completed the work of
+demolition. In the two-fold destruction, both French and English had
+sufficient respect for the dead to leave the tombs alone. But, now
+that Black Town was gone, the big tombs were the nearest buildings to
+the walls of White Town and Fort St. George; and when the French under
+Lally besieged Madras a few years later, they used the 'stately Tombs'
+as convenient cover for their attack on the city. The cemetery now was
+a receptacle not for beggars and buffaloes but for soldiers and guns.
+The siege lasted sixty-seven days, during which the cemetery was a
+vantage ground for successive French batteries. It is therefore not to
+be wondered at that when Count Lally had raised the unsuccessful
+siege, the authorities at Fort St. George decided that the 'stately
+tombs' were to disappear. The tombs themselves were accordingly
+destroyed, but the slabs that bore the inscriptions were laid in St.
+Mary's churchyard. At a later date some of them were taken up and were
+removed to the ramparts, for the extraordinary<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> purpose of 'building
+platforms for the guns,'<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> but eventually they were restored to the
+churchyard and were relaid as we see them to-day.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Rev. F. Penny's <i>Church in Madras</i>, vol. i, p. 366.</p></div>
+
+<p>When the burying ground was dismantled, two of its monuments were
+allowed to remain. They are still to be seen on the Esplanade, outside
+the Law College, and the inscriptions can still be read; and the two
+tombs are interesting memorials of the past. One is a tall,
+steeple-like structure, which represents a woman's grief for her first
+husband, and for her child by her second. Her first husband was Joseph
+Hynmers, Senior Member of Council, who died in 1680, her second was
+Elihu Yale, Governor of Madras, whom she married six months after the
+death of her first. When her little son David died at the age of four,
+she had him buried in her first husband's grave. The other monument
+covers a vault which holds the remains of various members of the
+Powney family, a name which figured freely in the list of the
+Company's employees throughout the eighteenth century. When the
+cemetery was dismantled, members of the Powney family were still in
+the Madras service, and it was doubtless in respect for their feelings
+that the vault was not disturbed.</p>
+
+<p>It may be added that amongst the gravestones that pave the ground
+outside St. Mary's Church there are several that record the death of
+Roman Catholics. It is supposed that they were taken from the
+graveyard of the Roman Catholic church in White Town, which was
+demolished by the Company when they recovered Madras after the French
+occupation.</p>
+
+<p>Although the gravestones around St. Mary's Church bear the names of
+persons who were buried elsewhere, there are memorials within the
+church itself which mark the actual resting-place of mortal remains.
+Most of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span>monuments in St. Mary's are of historic interest, and
+it is fascinating indeed to stroll round the building and study</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>Storied urn or animated bust;</p></div>
+
+<p>but it is noteworthy that no inscription records the very first burial
+within the walls of the church. It is noteworthy too that the
+forgotten grave was not the grave of an obscure person, but of Lord
+Pigot, Governor of Madras; and, in view of the extraordinary
+circumstances of his death, the first burial is the most notable of
+all.</p>
+
+<p>George Pigot was sent out to Madras as a lad of eighteen, to take up
+the post of a writer in the Company's service. He worked so well that
+he rose rapidly, and at the early age of thirty-six he was appointed
+Governor of Madras. It was in the middle of his eight years'
+governorship that the French under Lally besieged Madras for
+sixty-five days; and Governor Pigot's untiring energy and skilful
+measures were prime factors in the successful defence. After the war
+he did great things for the development of Madras; and when he
+resigned office at the age of forty-five and went to England, the
+strenuous upholder of British honour in the East was rewarded with an
+Irish peerage. Well would it have been for Lord Pigot if he had
+settled down for good on his Irish estate! But twelve years later he
+accepted the offer of a second term of office as Governor of Madras.
+It is not infrequently the case that a man who has been eminently
+successful in office at one time of his career fails badly if after a
+long interval he accepts the same office again. Times have altered and
+methods that were successful before are now out of date. In Lord
+Pigot's case the conditions at the time of his second appointment were
+very different from those at the time of the first. On the first
+occasion he had risen to office with colleagues who had been his
+companions in the service. On the second occasion he was sent out to
+Madras as an elderly nobleman selected for the job, and as a stranger<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span>
+to his colleagues, who moreover were particularly given to factious
+disputes. It is not unlikely too that Lord Pigot himself had become
+touchy and overbearing in his declining years. Any way, he quarrelled
+with his Councillors almost immediately, and within six or seven
+months there had been some very angry scenes. He had been accustomed
+to being obeyed, and in his wrath at being obstinately resisted he
+went to the length of ordering the arrest not only of some of the
+leading members of Council but also of the Commander-in-Chief. The
+Councillors check-mated the Governor's order by arresting the
+Governor! It was a daring proceeding. He was arrested one night after
+dark, while driving along a suburban road on his imagined way to a
+friendly supper, and he was sent as a prisoner to a house at St.
+Thomas's Mount. He was in captivity for some nine months, while the
+triumphant Councillors were representing their case to the Directors
+in England; and then he died, in Government House, Madras, to which
+when he fell ill he had been transferred. It is on record that his
+remains were specially honoured with burial within St. Mary's
+Church&mdash;the first burial within the building&mdash;but no permanent
+memorial was raised to the unhappy Governor's memory; and the
+particular spot where he was buried is only a matter of conjecture.</p>
+
+<p>St. Mary's Church is less than 250 years old. Compared with hundreds
+of the grey-walled or ivy-covered churches in England, St. Mary's at
+Madras is prosaically new; but it is of exceeding interest
+nevertheless. Madras itself is a great and historic city, which owes
+its existence to British enterprise, with Indian co-operation, and St.
+Mary's Church, as the oldest British building therein, is the earliest
+milestone of progress. It is not a church that is best visited, like
+Melrose Abbey, 'in the pale moonlight,' but in the bright daylight,
+when the inscriptions on the tomb-stones without and on the monuments
+within can be clearly read.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX</h2>
+
+<h2>ROMAN CATHOLIC, MADRAS</h2>
+
+
+<p>When the English first came to Madras, there were numerous Roman
+Catholic churches in the neighbouring Portuguese settlement of San
+Thom&eacute;, but there were none within the tract of land that Mr. Francis
+Day acquired in the Company's behalf. When, therefore, at the
+Company's invitation, a number of Portuguese from San Thom&eacute;, both
+pure-blooded and mixed, came and settled down in the Company's White
+Town, they were necessarily compelled to resort to the ministrations
+of Portuguese priests who belonged to the San Thom&eacute; Mission; and
+within a year of the foundation of Fort St. George, the Portuguese
+missionaries built a church in the outskirts of the British
+settlement. This was the Church of the Assumption, which stands in
+what is still called 'Portuguese Street' in Georgetown, and is
+therefore a building of historic note. To the Company's
+representatives the ministrations of Portuguese priests to residents
+of Madras were objectionable; for the relations between Madras and San
+Thom&eacute; were by no means friendly. It is true that when Mr. Francis Day
+was treating for the acquisition of a site, the Portuguese at Mylapore
+had furthered his efforts; but such a mark of apparent good will was
+no more than the outcome of Portuguese hostility to the Dutch; for
+they hoped that the English at Madras would be powerful allies with
+themselves against the aggressive Hollanders. As soon, however, as
+Madras had begun to be built and English trade to be actively pushed,
+jealousies arose and disagreements occurred; and the Company's
+representatives<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> chafed at the idea that Portuguese priests should be
+the spiritual advisers of residents of Madras.</p>
+
+<p>In 1642, when Madras was in its third year, a certain Father Ephraim,
+a French Capuchin, chanced to set foot in Madras. Father Ephraim had
+been sent out from Paris as a missionary to Pegu; and he had travelled
+across India from Surat to Masulipatam, where, according to his
+instructions, he was to have secured a passage to Pegu in one of the
+Company's ships. His information was out of date; for the Agency had
+lately been transferred from Masulipatam to Madras, and the Company's
+ships for Pegu were sailing now from Madras instead of from
+Masulipatam; so Father Ephraim journeyed southward from Masulipatam to
+look for a vessel at the new settlement. At Madras no vessel was
+starting immediately, and Father Ephraim had to bide his time.
+Meanwhile he made himself useful by ministering to the Roman Catholics
+of the place. Official and other documents show that Father Ephraim
+was a very devout and a very able man. He was 'an earnest Christian,'
+'a polished linguist,' able to converse in English, Portuguese and
+Dutch, besides his own French, and he was conversant with Persian and
+Arabic. He had the charm of attractive friendliness, which is so
+common with Frenchmen, and he captivated all with whom he conversed.
+The Portuguese and other Roman Catholic inhabitants of Madras, to whom
+the Company's disapproval of the ministrations of Portuguese priests
+had been a frequent source of trouble, formally petitioned Father
+Ephraim to settle down in the city; and the Governor in Council,
+greatly preferring a French priest to a Portuguese and thoroughly
+approving of Father Ephraim personally, supported the petition with a
+formal order that, if the priest would stay, a site would be provided
+on which he might build a church for his flock. Father Ephraim himself
+was not unwilling to stay, but he was under orders for Pegu,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> and,
+furthermore, Madras was within the diocese of San Thom&eacute;, and the
+Bishop was not likely to approve of a scheme in which the
+ministrations of his own priests would be set at naught in favour of a
+stranger. The Company, however, was influential. A reference was made
+to Father Ephraim's Capuchin superiors in Paris, and they approved of
+his remaining in Madras; another reference was made to Rome, asking
+that the British territory of Madras should be ecclesiastically
+separated from the Portuguese diocese of Mylapore, and the Pope issued
+a decree to that effect.</p>
+
+<p>A site for a church, as also for a priest's house, was provided in
+White Town, within the Fort St. George of to-day, and a small church,
+dedicated to St. Andrew, was built; and for a good many years it was
+the only church of any kind in the settlement.</p>
+
+<p>The Portuguese ecclesiastics of Mylapore were never reconciled to this
+ecclesiastical separation of Madras, and when Father Ephraim went by
+invitation to Mylapore to discuss certain ecclesiastical business, he
+was forthwith arrested, clapped in irons, and shipped off to Goa and
+lodged in the prison of the Inquisition. The Governor of Fort St.
+George took the matter in hand, but Father Ephraim was in prison more
+than two years before he was eventually released and sent back to
+Madras.</p>
+
+<p>Later, Father Ephraim rebuilt St. Andrew's Church on a larger plan,
+and the building was opened with ceremony; and Master Patrick Warner,
+the Company's Protestant Chaplain at Fort St. George, complained
+indignantly to the Directors in England that Governor Langhorn had
+celebrated the popish occasion with the 'firing of great guns' and
+with 'volleys of small shot by all the soldiers in garrison.'</p>
+
+<p>Father Ephraim had already built a church in old Black Town, which
+seems to have stood somewhere within what is now the site of the High
+Court. Another French<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span> Capuchin had meanwhile come to Madras to help
+him in his ministrations to his ever-increasing flock; so the church
+in Black Town had its regular pastor.</p>
+
+<p>After more than fifty years of self-sacrificing work in Madras, Father
+Ephraim died of old age, sincerely esteemed by all who knew him.</p>
+
+<p>Some years after his death St. Andrew's was again rebuilt, and it was
+now a large edifice, with a high bell-tower, and a small churchyard
+around. In the suburban district of Muthialpet there was also a
+'Portuguese Burying Place,' which is now the 'compound' of the Roman
+Catholic Cathedral and its associated buildings in Armenian Street;
+and a small church stood within this enclosure. Adjoining the
+Portuguese Burying Place was the 'Armenian Burying Place,' which is
+now the enclosure of the Armenian church; and it was the Armenian
+Burying Place that gave the name to the street.</p>
+
+<p>When Madras was captured by the French, there were people who said
+that the French priests in Madras had given information to their
+countrymen; and three years later, when Madras was restored to the
+Company, the Governor in Council confiscated St. Andrew's church. A
+reference to the Directors in England as to what they were to do with
+the confiscated building brought back the very decisive reply that
+they were "immediately on the receipt of this, without fail to
+demolish the Portuguese Church in the White Town at Madras, and not
+suffer it to stand." The church was demolished accordingly, as also a
+Roman Catholic chapel in Vepery. The church in old Black Town had
+already been demolished by the French when they destroyed the greater
+part of old Black Town itself; and, in accordance with another edict
+of the Directors in England, by which the Company's representatives in
+Madras were "absolutely forbid suffering any Romish Church within the
+bounds, or even to suffer the public profession<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> of the Romish
+religion," Roman Catholicism was altogether scouted in Madras.</p>
+
+<p>Twenty-five years later, the English troops, after defeating the
+French in various engagements, captured Pondicherry and demolished its
+fortifications; and the peace of Paris left the French in India
+powerless. With the danger of French aggression removed for good, the
+Company were less intolerant of the religion which Frenchmen
+professed; and a few years later they paid the Capuchin priests some
+Rs. 50,000 as compensation for the destruction of the church in White
+Town and of the chapel in Vepery.</p>
+
+<p>With funds thus in their hands, the Capuchin fathers set about
+building a new church in the 'Burying Place.' This new church, which
+they built in 1775, was the edifice which is now the Roman Catholic
+Cathedral in Armenian Street. On the gate-posts appears the date 1642,
+but this was the year in which the Company made a grant of the land
+for a Roman Catholic Cemetery and in which Father Ephraim arrived and
+the Madras Mission began, and is not the date of the building of the
+present church or of its predecessor. The Capuchin missionaries
+continued in charge of Roman Catholic affairs in Madras until 1832, in
+which year they were put under episcopal jurisdiction.</p>
+
+<p>Reference has been made in this chapter and elsewhere to the churches
+that were already in existence in Mylapore when the English first
+settled in Madras. According to local tradition, the Apostle St.
+Thomas made his way to the East, and, after preaching in various parts
+of India, settled down in the ancient Hindu town of Mylapore, where he
+made numerous converts. The Hindu priests, indignant at the loss of so
+many of their clients, sought the missionary's life. The Apostle,
+according to the tradition, lived in a small cave on a small hill&mdash;the
+'Little Mount'&mdash;fed by birds and drinking the water of a spring that
+bubbled up<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> miraculously within the cave. Driven from the cave, he
+fled to another hill, a mile or so away&mdash;'St. Thomas's Mount'&mdash;where
+he was killed with a lance. The dead body was buried at Mylapore. Such
+is the story; and in the present-day church on the Little Mount the
+visitor is shown a cave which is said to have been the Apostle's
+hiding-place; and within the nave of the cathedral at Mylapore he is
+shown a hole in the ground&mdash;now lined with marble&mdash;in which the
+Martyr's remains are said to have been buried.</p>
+
+<p>When the Portuguese came to Mylapore in the early part of the
+sixteenth century, they built a church upon the ruins of an ancient
+church that had enclosed the tomb; and the new church became
+eventually the Cathedral of San Thom&eacute;. The sixteenth century building
+was pulled down in 1893, and the present Cathedral&mdash;a handsome Gothic
+structure&mdash;was built. Mylapore is now a suburb of Madras, and is
+within British dominion; but the bishopric, which was originally
+supported by the King of Portugal, who had the right of nominating the
+bishop, is still supported by the Portuguese Government.</p>
+
+<p>Mylapore has a history of its own that is outside the scope of the
+'Story of Madras;' but a few words about the glories of a city that is
+now a suburb of Madras will not be out of place.</p>
+
+<p>Mylapore and Madras, standing side by side, are a conjunction of the
+old and the young. Mylapore, or Meliapore, the 'Peacock City' of the
+ancient Hindu world, has existed for twenty centuries, and perhaps a
+great many more; Madras has existed less than three. It was at
+Mylapore that, according to tradition, the body of the martyred
+Apostle St. Thomas was buried; Mylapore was the birth-place of
+Tiruvalluvar, an old and illustrious Tamil author who belonged to the
+down-trodden class, and of Peyalvar, an eminent Vaishnavite saint and
+writer; it was here that a company of Saivaite saints, Appar and his
+fellows,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> assembled together and wrote their well-known hymns; and it
+was here also that Mastan, a renowned Mohammedan scholar, lived and
+wrote and died.</p>
+
+<p>Of the ancient glories of Mylapore no vestige remains; but several of
+the churches of the Mylapore diocese belong to the sixteenth century,
+including the celebrated 'Luz' Church, the Church of the Madre-de-Deus
+at San Thom&eacute; and the little Church of Our Lady of Refuge between
+Mylapore and Saidapet, besides the churches at the Little Mount and
+St. Thomas's Mount, of which the latter is a sixteenth-century
+development of an old chapel that existed there before the coming of
+the Portuguese.</p>
+
+<p>It is of interest to note that there are those who say that a Mylapore
+church gave its name to the city of Madras. They say&mdash;not, I believe,
+without evidence&mdash;that the rural village of Madraspatam, where Mr.
+Francis Day selected a site for the Company's settlement, had been
+colonized by fisherfolk from the parish of the Madre-de-Deus
+Church&mdash;the Church of the Mother of God&mdash;and that the emigrant
+fisherfolk called their village by the name of their parish, and that
+the name was eventually corrupted into 'Madras.' The origin of the
+name 'Madras' is uncertain; and the explanation is at any rate
+interesting and not unlikely to be true.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X</h2>
+
+<h2>CHEPAUK PALACE</h2>
+
+
+<p>Among the interesting buildings in Madras must be included Chepauk
+Palace, which was built about a century and a half ago as a residence
+for the Nawab of the Carnatic, and which is now the office of the
+Board of Revenue. The high wall that enclosed the spacious Saracenic
+structure in its palace days has been pulled down, and the public can
+now gaze at a building that was once carefully screened from the
+public eye, and can enter at will without having to satisfy the
+scrutiny of armed men at the gate. A change indeed&mdash;from the sleepy
+residence of a Muhammadan ruler, with his harem and his idle crowd of
+retainers, to bustling offices where a multitude of officials and
+clerks are working out the cash accounts of the Government of Madras!</p>
+
+<p>The 'Carnatic' was a dominion that extended over the territory that is
+now included in the Collectorates of Nellore, North Arcot, South
+Arcot, Trichinopoly, and Tinnevelly. The town of Arcot was the capital
+of the dominion, and the Nawab of the Carnatic was sometimes spoken of
+as the Nawab of Arcot. Chepauk Palace belongs to the history of the
+Carnatic, and a few historical notes will make things clear.</p>
+
+<p>In our first chapter we intimated that Madras, when Mr. Francis Day
+acquired it, was within the domain of the disappearing Hindu Empire of
+Vijianagar, of which the living representative at the time was the
+Raja of Chandragiri, from whom Mr. Francis Day accordingly<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> obtained a
+deed of possession. Seven years afterwards, the Raja of Chandragiri
+was a refugee in Mysore, driven from his throne by the Muhammadan
+Sultan of Golconda, who assumed the sovereignty of Hyderabad and the
+Carnatic. The Sultan of Golconda thus became the recognized overlord
+of Madras; and the Company were careful to secure from their new
+sovereign a confirmation of their possession. But the power of the
+Sultan was destined to fall in its turn; for Aurangzeb, the Moghul
+Emperor at Delhi, being desirous of uniting all India under Moghul
+rule, waged war against the Sultan of Golconda&mdash;who, as a Shiah
+Mohammedan, was a heretic in Aurangzeb's eyes&mdash;and defeated him.
+Aurangzeb put Hyderabad under a Nizam whom he named 'Viceroy of the
+Deccan' and the Carnatic under a Nawab who was to be subordinate to
+the Viceroy. But the Emperor who succeeded Aurangzeb had none of their
+predecessors' greatness; and soon after Aurangzeb's death the Nizam of
+Hyderabad assumed independence, with the Nawab of the Carnatic as his
+vassal.</p>
+
+<p>In 1749 there was a quarrel for the Nawabship. The French at
+Pondicherry supported one claimant, and the English at Madras
+supported the other. This was the gallant Clive's opportunity.
+Exchanging the clerk's pen for the officer's sword, the youthful
+'writer' marched with a small force to Arcot and captured it on behalf
+of the Company's nominee, and then sustained most heroically a lengthy
+siege. Clive triumphed; and Mohammed Ali, otherwise known as Nawab
+Walajah, became undisputed Nawab of the Carnatic. Later, with British
+support, the Nawab renounced his allegiance to Hyderabad, and reigned
+as an independent prince.</p>
+
+<p>In his capital at Arcot, Nawab Walajah, who had many factionary
+enemies, would assuredly have found himself in a dangerous centre of
+intrigue; but he was wise in his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> generation; for as soon as he had
+gained his independence he sought and obtained from the Governor of
+Madras permission to build a palace for himself within the protective
+walls of Fort St. George. Arrangements for the work were made; and one
+of the streets of the Fort&mdash;the street which still bears the name of
+'Palace Street'&mdash;received its name because it was the street in which
+the Nawab's residence was to be built. Eventually, however, the scheme
+was set aside; and in the following year the Nawab acquired private
+property in Chepauk, and engaged an English architect to build him a
+house. Chepauk Palace thus came into existence. The grounds of the
+Palace, which the Nawab surrounded with a wall, formed an immense
+enclosure, which included a large part of the grounds of Government
+House of to-day and a great deal of adjoining land.</p>
+
+<p>Chepauk Palace was the scene of some grand doings in its time; and
+soon after it was built the Nawab entertained the Governor of Madras
+and his Councillors, one of whom was Mr. Warren Hastings, at 'an
+elegant breakfast;' and, when the feast was over, he divided some Rs.
+30,000 among his guests. The Governor got Rs. 7,000, and, on a sliding
+scale, the Secretaries, who were last on the list, got Rs. 1,000 each.</p>
+
+<p>The relations, however, between Nawab Walajah and a later Governor of
+Madras were not so cordial. In 1780 Haidar Ali with an immense army
+suddenly invaded the Carnatic, and annihilated a British force that
+was sent to oppose him; and Tipu, his son and successor, continued the
+campaign. The Company's treasury at Madras was straitened with the
+expenses of the war, and the Nawab, whose capital was in the hands of
+the enemy, was unable to contribute thereto; but when Tipu was
+eventually defeated, the Nawab was induced to assign the control of
+the revenues of the Carnatic to the Company. A few<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span> months later the
+Nawab felt that he had made an unwise bargain, and he declared his
+renunciation of the agreement; but Baron Macartney, the newly
+appointed Governor of Madras, kept him strictly to his word. The Nawab
+wrote various official letters, complaining in one that Lord Macartney
+had 'premeditatedly' offered him 'Insults and Indignity,' and in
+another that he had shown him 'every mark of Insult and Contempt.' The
+Directors in London, expressly declaring their desire to content the
+influential Nawab, decided in his favour; whereupon Lord Macartney,
+who in the opinion of his friends had been set at naught for the sake
+of the wealthy potentate, indignantly resigned the Governorship of
+Madras, and went home. Friendly relations between the Nawab and the
+Madras Government were thereupon resumed, and when Nawab Walajah died,
+at the age of seventy-eight, he was eulogised in an official note in
+the <i>Fort St. George Gazette</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The career of his son and successor, Umdat-ul-Umara, was less
+auspicious. Although his accession was the occasion of friendly
+letters between himself and the Government of Madras, the Nawab's
+rejection of the Governor's suggestion that the financial arrangements
+between himself and the Company should be made more favourable to the
+Company irritated the Governor, and the Governor's efforts to induce
+the Nawab to change his mind irritated the Nawab. Meanwhile Tipu
+Sultan was preparing for another war with the Company, and when, after
+a brief campaign, Tipu was killed while fighting bravely in defence of
+his capital, it was declared that an examination of Tipu's
+correspondence showed that the Nawab of Arcot had been guilty of
+treasonable communications with Mysore. It was accordingly resolved
+that the Company should assume control of the Carnatic; but, as the
+Nawab was seriously ill, nothing was done until his death, when
+British troops were sent to occupy Chepauk Palace.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The Nawab's son refused to recognize the Company's right to control
+his father's dominions, whereupon the Company set him aside, and put
+his cousin on the throne in his stead. The Company were now the actual
+rulers of the Carnatic, and the future Nawabs were styled 'Titular
+Nawabs.' In 1855 the third of the Titular Nawabs died without any son
+to succeed him. Lord Dalhousie was Governor-General of India at the
+time, and it was Lord Dalhousie's declared policy that if the ruler of
+any native state died without issue, his dominions should formally
+lapse to the Company. On this principle the Carnatic now became a
+formal part of the British dominions, and the dynasty of the Nawabs
+came to an end; Chepauk Palace, which was the personal property of the
+Nawabs, was acquired by the Company's Government for a price, and was
+eventually turned into Government offices.</p>
+
+<p>The many thousands of Mohammedans, however, who dwelt in the crowded
+streets and lanes of Chepauk, and who had looked upon the Nawab as
+their religious chief, would have been afflicted at the cessation of
+the Carnatic line; and after the Indian Mutiny the Government of
+India, respecting Mohammedan sentiment, recognized the succession of
+the nearest relative of the late Nawab and obtained for him from the
+King of England the hereditary title of Amir-i-Arcot, or 'Prince of
+Arcot'&mdash;an honorary title but higher than that of Nawab. A sum of Rs.
+1,50,000 per annum&mdash;(not an excessive sum in relation to the revenues
+of the Carnatic, which are now collected by the Madras Government)&mdash;is
+expended annually in pensions to the Prince and to certain of his
+relatives; and he lives in a house called the 'Amir Mahal' (the Amir's
+Palace), which was given to him by the Government. The Amir Mahal
+stands in spacious grounds in Royapettah. At the principal entrance,
+the gate-house is a tall and imposing edifice in red brick. At the
+gateway, sentries,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> armed with old-fashioned rifles, stand&mdash;or
+sometimes sit&mdash;on guard; and the Prince's Band is often to be heard
+practising oriental music in the room up above.</p>
+
+<p>Regarded in relation to its history, Chepauk is something more than
+'one of the Government buildings on the Marina.' Let us remember that,
+when it was enclosed within the walls that are now no more, it was the
+home of Mohammedan potentates&mdash;sometimes a scene of gorgeous
+festivity&mdash;sometimes a scene of desperate intrigue. In imagination we
+may people the front garden with the gaily-uniformed Body-Guard of the
+Carnatic sovereign, mounted on gaily-bridled steeds; and we may see
+the Nawab himself coming magnificently down the front steps and
+climbing into the silver howdah that is strapped on the back of a
+kneeling elephant. A blast of oriental music, and the procession goes
+on its way; and we may wonder at which of the tiled windows on the
+upper floor the bright eyes of the Lalla Rookhs and the Nurmahals of
+Chepauk are slily peeping at the spectacle. The vision vanishes. The
+procession now is a procession of clerks to their homes when their
+day's work is over; and the music is a ragtime selection by the Band
+of the Madras Guards on the Marina, close by, with ayahs and children
+around. We are in the twentieth century; but for a moment we have
+lived in the past.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI</h2>
+
+<h2>GOVERNMENT HOUSE</h2>
+
+
+<p>In the early days of Madras all the employees of the Company, from the
+Governor down to the most junior apprentice, lived in common. Their
+bedrooms were in one and the same house, and they had their meals at
+one and the same table. The house stood in the middle of the Fort, and
+was the 'Factory'&mdash;a word which, as already explained, was used in
+former times to mean a mercantile office, or, as Annandale in his
+dictionary defines it, 'an establishment where factors in foreign
+countries reside to transact business for their employers;' and the
+Factory in Fort St. George was both an office and a home.</p>
+
+<p>The community life, with the common table, was maintained for many
+years, but in course of time, when the number of the employees had
+greatly increased and some of the senior officials had wives and
+children, one man and another were allowed to live in separate
+quarters, within the precincts of the Fort; and eventually the common
+table, like King Arthur's, was dissolved. Even then, however, and
+right on until the beginning of the nineteenth century, the junior
+employees had a common mess, and were under something like disciplined
+control.</p>
+
+<p>Like all the other buildings inside the Fort and within the walls of
+White Town, the Factory&mdash;which was sometimes spoken of as 'The
+Governor's House'&mdash;was without a garden; and it was only to be
+expected that the resident employees, most of whom were young men,
+should wish for a recreation ground to which they could resort in
+their leisure hours. Some of the wealthy private residents of White
+Town had shown what could be done; for they had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> acquired patches of
+land outside the walls, which they had enclosed with hedges and
+cultivated as gardens, with a house in the middle of each garden, in
+which, as either a permanent or an occasional residence, the owner and
+his family might hope to find relief from the stuffiness of the
+streets of the rapidly developing city. In the 'Records' any such
+villa is spoken of as a 'garden-house' and even now in Madras the term
+'garden-house' is occasionally used in Indo-English as signifying a
+house that stands within its own 'compound,' as distinct from houses
+that open directly into the street.</p>
+
+<p>The Company's agents in Madras realized the desirability of laying out
+a garden for the recreative benefit of the Company's employees.
+Outside the walls, therefore, of White Town they hedged off some eight
+acres of land in the locality in which the Law College now stands, and
+they cultivated it as a 'Company's Garden;' and within it they built a
+small pavilion. We may imagine that in the cool of the evening it was
+common for a goodly number of the Company's mercantile employees to
+leave their apartments in the Fort and stroll beyond the walls the
+short distance to the 'Garden,' which in those early days was
+refreshingly near the seashore. In our mind's eye we can blot the Law
+College out of the landscape and can see a party of youthful merchants
+engaged as energetically as was suitable to the heat of Madras in the
+then fashionable game of bowls&mdash;or, less energetically but much more
+excitedly, gathered in a ring round two cocks that are tearing each
+other to pieces&mdash;a particularly popular form of 'Sport' in old Madras;
+and, although the Directors in London appropriately forbade to their
+employees the use of cards or the dice-box, we can espy a
+tense-visaged quartet within the shadow of the pavilion with a 'pool'
+of 'fanams' (coins worth about 2-&frac12;<i>d</i>.) on the table, or possibly,
+rupees or pagodas, absorbed in a round of ombre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span> or one of the other
+card games that were in fashion. The sun has set, and the shadows are
+lengthening. A bugle sounds from the Fort; and the employees stroll
+back to supper, which, according to an old account, invariably
+consisted of 'milk, salt fish, and rice,' but which will be privately
+supplemented afterwards with potations of arrack-punch by those who
+can afford nothing better and with draughts of sack or canary by those
+who can.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of a few years the 'Company's Garden' was spoiled. Black
+Town had been springing up close by; and, when a wall was built round
+old Black Town, the Company's Garden was unpleasantly included
+therein, and the Garden was now in the north-west corner of the Indian
+city. Moreover, a part of the Garden had begun to be utilized as a
+European burial-ground, and huge funeral monstrosities of the bygone
+style had begun to dominate the enclosure.</p>
+
+<p>The Company's agents in Madras felt that a new recreation ground was a
+necessity; and they were agreed that there ought to be not merely a
+'Company's Garden,' but a 'Company's Garden-House.' They wrote to the
+Directors saying that there were occasions on which the Company in
+Madras had to entertain 'the King (Golconda) and persons of quality,'
+and that they had no building that was suitable for any such
+ceremonial proceedings. True there was the Council Chamber in the
+Fort, but the Council Chamber was the place where the Company's
+mercantile transactions were discussed; and the Chamber, as well as
+all the other buildings in the Fort, was closely identified with the
+'Factory;' and the Company's chief officials in Madras declared&mdash;not,
+we may suppose, without regard for their own convenience&mdash;that a
+stately 'Garden House,' unassociated with ledgers and bills of sale,
+ought to be built, in due accord with the stateliness of the Company
+itself. Their application for permission to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> put the work in hand was
+met by the Directors in London with the typically frugal reply that
+the work might be done but care was to be taken that the Company
+should be put to 'no great charge.' Possibly the representatives in
+Madras were able to provide additional supplies on the spot, but,
+however that may have been, the house was 'handsomely built,' yet
+'with little expense to the Company.' The new garden seems to have
+comprised the area within which the Medical College and the General
+Hospital are now situated. The grounds, which stretched down, even as
+now, to the bank of the river, were well laid out, and the Company's
+first 'Garden House' was a fine possession.</p>
+
+<p>In 1686 Master William Gyfford, Governor of Fort St. George, had a
+fancy for using the Garden House as a private residence for himself.
+It is not to be wondered at that he did so; for Master Gyfford, after
+twenty-seven years' residence in Madras and more than twenty-seven
+years in the East, was in poor health, and lately he had been taken
+ill with a 'a violent fitt of the Stone and Wind Collick.' The
+gardenless 'Factory' in the Fort was a gloomy apology for a
+'Governor's House,' and the crowd of employees that were accommodated
+there must have been a serious infliction upon the invalid Governor;
+and he found the Garden House an agreeable retreat. In his new
+quarters he got better of his illness; and he dwelt there a
+considerable time, till in the following year he left Madras for
+England for good. The story is interesting, for it records the first
+occasion on which a Governor of Madras lived in a separate house
+outside the Fort.</p>
+
+<p>On various occasions the Company's 'Garden House,' with its extensive
+grounds, was used for public purposes, justifying the plea for its
+construction. For example, when the Company received the news of the
+accession of King James II, the event was celebrated with brilliant
+proceedings at the Garden House. Similarly, at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> accession of Queen
+Anne 'all Europeans of fashion in the City' were invited to the Garden
+House, where they 'drank the Queen's Health, and Prosperity to old
+England.' In an earlier chapter we have related how a young Nawab of
+Arcot who had just succeeded to his murdered father's throne was
+entertained at the Garden House with great doings. Governor Pitt made
+great developments in the Gardens, and was another Governor who liked
+the Garden House as a residence. An Englishman who was living in
+Madras in 1704, when Pitt was Governor, has left an interesting
+account of the Garden House as he saw it:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>'The Governor, during the hot Winds, retires to the
+Company's new Garden for refreshment, which he has made a
+very delightful Place of a barren one. Its costly Gates,
+lovely Bowling-Green, spacious Walks, Teal-pond, and
+Curiosities preserved in several Divisions are worthy to be
+Admired. Lemons and Grapes grow there, but five Shillings
+worth of Water and attendance will scarcely mature one of
+them.'</p></div>
+
+<p>Before long it had come to be an unwritten regulation that Governors
+at Fort St. George might reside at their choice either in the Fort or
+at the Garden House. There came a time, however, when the Governor had
+of necessity to betake himself to the Fort; it was the time when the
+French were besieging Madras. During the siege the enemy used the
+Garden House as a vantage-ground for their big guns; and afterwards,
+when they had captured Fort St. George and were in occupation of the
+city, they pulled the Garden House down, lest the English, trying
+perhaps to recapture the Fort, should be able to use it as a
+vantage-ground in their turn.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, when Madras was restored to the English, the Garden House had
+disappeared, and the only house for Governor Saunders was the original
+residence in the middle of the Fort. Governor Saunders, however, was
+not content with the walled-in accommodation that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> Fort provided
+and was unwilling to forgo the residential privileges that his
+predecessors had enjoyed; so a private 'garden-house' in Chepauk was
+rented in his behalf. It belonged to a Mrs. Madeiros, a rich
+Portuguese widow, whose husband, lately deceased, had been a leading
+merchant in White Town.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Madeiros's house was 'Government House, Madras,' of the present
+day. The house, however, has been enlarged and the grounds have been
+extended since Governor Saunders lived there as a tenant.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_14" id="pict_14"></a>
+<img src="images/image_087.jpg" width="600" height="378" alt="GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS"  />
+<span class="caption">GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS</span></div>
+
+<p>Governor Saunders liked his residence, and, before he had been there a
+year, the Company acquired it from the widow, who had no use for it
+now that her husband was dead; and the Governor was careful to leave
+on record the reason of the acquisition:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>'It having been always usual for the Company to allow the
+President a house in the Country to retire to, and Mrs.
+Medeiros being willing to dispose of her House, situated in
+the Road to St. Thom&eacute;, for three thousand five hundred
+pagodas (say Rs 12,250), Agreed That it be purchased
+accordingly, The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> Company's Garden-house having been
+demolish'd by the French when they were in Possession of
+this Place, and Mrs. Medeiros's being convenient for that
+Purpose, and on a Survey esteem'd worth much more than the
+Sum 'tis offer'd at.'</p></div>
+
+<p>The Company always enjoyed a good bargain, and Governor Saunders was
+justified in thinking that he had made a very good one in respect of
+the house; for, a few years later, the house, with certain extensions
+and improvements, was written down in the Company's books at a
+valuation of nearly four times the price that was paid for it.</p>
+
+<p>We have brought our story down to the acquisition of Government House,
+but it remains to relate some of the historic events in which
+Government House has figured since it was acquired.</p>
+
+<p>During the second siege of Madras by the French, under Lally, the
+besiegers occupied the Garden House, and during their occupation they
+did a great deal of wanton damage before they ceased their vain
+endeavours. Two years later, however, the English had the enjoyment of
+a delicate revenge. They captured Pondicherry and brought Lally to
+Madras, where they imprisoned him in the Garden House till a vessel
+was available to take him to England. The damage that he had done had
+not yet been repaired; and a contemporary Record says that 'Mr. Lally
+was lodged in those apartments of the Garden House which had escaped
+his fury at the Siege of Madras,' and that in respect of his table he
+was allowed to give his own orders 'without limitation of expence,'
+with the result that he 'seemed to have intended Revenge by
+Profusion.'</p>
+
+<p>A few years later Tipu, Sultan of Mysore, at the head of a body of
+horsemen, made a sudden raid on Madras; and the troopers scampered
+about the well-laid-out grounds of the Garden House, looting the
+villages on either side. According to accounts, Governor Bourchier and
+his<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> Councillors were there when the raiders came, and they would
+assuredly have been caught had they not managed to make their escape
+in a boat that was conveniently tied up on the bank of the Cooum
+river.</p>
+
+<p>More than one Governor of Fort St. George has died at Government
+House, and it was there that Governor Pigot died in extraordinary
+circumstances. The tale has been told in a previous chapter, that Lord
+Pigot was arrested by his Councillors, with whom he had quarrelled,
+and that he died in confinement in the Garden House.</p>
+
+<p>The reader has yet to be told how the Garden House was finally
+transformed into the Government House that we see to-day.</p>
+
+<p>In 1798 Lord Clive, son of the great Robert Clive, was sent out to
+India as Governor of Madras. Within the first six months of his
+arrival there was the excitement of a war with Mysore, in which the
+terrible Tipu Sultan was killed during the assault on his capital.
+During the tranquil remainder of his five years in India, Lord Clive
+turned his attention to domestic reforms, and amongst them he resolved
+that the Garden House should be improved. In an official minute he
+wrote:&mdash;</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>'The garden house, at present occupied by Myself, is so
+insufficient either for the private accommodation of my
+family and Staff, or for the convenience of the public
+occasions inseparable from my situation, that it is my
+intention to make such an addition to it as may be
+calculated to answer both purposes.'</p></div>
+
+<p>Lord Clive thereupon, in 1801, developed Government House at a cost of
+more than Rs. 3 lakhs; and two years later he built the beautiful
+Banqueting Hall, at a cost of Rs. 2&frac12; lakhs. The recent fall of
+Tipu's capital of Seringapatam was an event that the Banqueting Hall
+could appropriately commemorate; and Lord Clive, with pious respect
+for his dead father's memory, coupled Plassey with Seringapatam, and
+ordered that the fine figure-work<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span> on the fa&ccedil;ade of the hall should be
+a commemoration of both victories. In England the Directors of the
+Company complained of what they called 'such wasteful extravagance;'
+but the developments were a real want, and it is a matter of
+present-day satisfaction that the Madras Government have no need to be
+acquiring a site now and to be building a new Government House in
+these expensive days. Lord Clive was certainly no miser with the
+Company's money, for he built also a second Government House&mdash;a
+'country residence' at Guindy. The 'country residence' was developed
+and improved some forty years later by Lord Elphinstone, who was
+Governor of Madras in the middle of last century. It is a truly
+beautiful house, standing in beautiful grounds; and it has lately been
+a proposition that the house at Guindy should be the Governor's only
+residence, and that Government House, Madras, should be used for
+Government offices.</p>
+
+<p>'Government House, Madras!' To most people it is suggestive of dinner
+parties within and garden parties without; and the Banqueting Hall is
+suggestive of dances and levees and meetings for good causes. But to
+people who can look at Government House, Madras, with an historic
+glance it rouses other memories. Within its original walls more than
+two centuries ago a belaced Senhor kept Portuguese state. It was here
+that Frenchmen were encamped while their guns were fruitlessly
+hammering at the walls of Fort St. George. It was here that Lally
+lived sumptuously in prison, till he was sent to Europe&mdash;eventually to
+be executed in Paris for having failed to capture Madras. It was
+within these grounds that Tipu's horsemen were scampering about on a
+September morning, looking for houses where money or jewels could be
+commandeered. It was here that an ennobled Governor of Madras lived in
+gilded captivity till death set him free.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII</h2>
+
+<h2>MADRAS AND THE SEA</h2>
+
+
+<p>Madras is now a seaport of considerable repute; but it is interesting
+to recall the fact that less than forty years ago the city was without
+a harbour, and that ships which came there had to anchor out at sea.
+In the days of the Company, passengers and cargo had to be landed on
+the beach in boats; and, as the waves that chase one another to the
+shores of Madras are nearly always giant billows crested with foaming
+surf, the passage between ship and shore was not without its
+discomforts and also its risks.</p>
+
+<p>Warren Hastings, when he was senior member of the Madras Council and
+was in charge of Public Works, wrote it down that he thought it
+'possible to carry out a causeway or pier into the sea beyond the
+Surf, to which boats might come and land their goods or passengers,
+without being exposed to the Surf.' At various times different
+engineers devised plans for such a pier as Warren Hastings proposed,
+but nothing was actually done, and it was not until the sixties of
+last century that a pier was actually made. It was not a stone
+causeway such as Hastings seems to have had in his mind, but was a
+lighter and likelier structure of wood and iron; and it did excellent
+work, making it easy for passengers and cargo to be landed in fair
+weather. Madras was still, however, without a harbour; but before many
+years a harbour was taken in hand, and in the summer of 1881 its two
+arms, enclosing the small pier, were practically finished. There was
+much rejoicing; but the congratulations were short-lived, for on a
+certain night during the winter of the same year there was a cyclone
+off Madras, and the next morning the citizens saw that their<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span> harbour
+had been wrecked by the devastating waves. It was fifteen years before
+the harbour had been restored, upon an improved plan; and even then it
+was a poor apology for a haven; for when a storm was expected, ships
+were warned to put out to sea, as the cyclone had shown that a stormy
+sea was less dangerous than the storm-beaten harbour. Within recent
+years, however, the harbour has been so much altered and strengthened
+and developed that it is regarded as a splendid piece of engineering,
+and shipping business in Madras has benefited greatly. Large vessels
+can now lie up against wharves, to discharge or to load their cargo,
+and passengers can embark and disembark in comfort, and the increase
+in trade has been great. Much watchfulness, however, is still very
+necessary; for, on an exciting night a few years ago, part of the
+extended harbour-wall was washed away by a storm.</p>
+
+<p>Yes, Madras is an important seaport; yet it is a fact that, except to
+men whose business is with the sea, Madras is much less like a seaside
+town than it was in its earlier years, and many of the people who live
+there seldom see the briny ocean&mdash;even though they may sometimes be
+reminded of its nearness when in the stillness of the night they hear</p>
+
+<div class="blockquot"><p>'The league-long breakers thundering on the shore.'</p></div>
+
+<p>For one thing, the greater part of Madras is not so near the sea as it
+was in former times; for the southern wall of the harbour has acted as
+a breakwater, causing the sea to recede a very long way from the
+original shore; and houses in the thoroughfare that is still called
+'Beach Road' are now a very long way from the beach, and it is only
+from upper stories that the sea in the distance is visible. Southward,
+moreover, the magnificent road that is still called the 'Marina' is
+fast losing its right to the name; for it is only across a broad
+stretch of ever-extending dry sand that the dark blue ribbon of
+tropical sea is beheld therefrom.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In earlier days Madras was verily a city of the sea. Both White Town
+and Black Town lay directly along the sea-beach, and the coming and
+going of the Company's ships were momentous events. Surf-boats used to
+land on the beach outside the 'Sea-Gate' of the wave-splashed Fort,
+laden with cargo from the Company's ships lying out in the roads; and
+the bales were carried through the gateway into the Company's
+warehouses within the Fort-walls. The Sea-Gate is still to be seen,
+and it still looks towards the sea; but the sea is far away, and the
+Sea-Gate is now one of the least used of the entrances to the Fort.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_15" id="pict_15"></a>
+<img src="images/image_093.jpg" width="600" height="494" alt="THE SEA GATE.
+
+The sea has now receded afar."  />
+<span class="caption">THE SEA GATE.
+
+The sea has now receded afar.</span></div>
+
+<p>In former times the Company had a considerable fleet of first-class
+sailing-ships, and, owing to the frequency of wars with either the
+French or the Dutch, the Company<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> obtained royal permission to equip
+their ships as men-of-war armed with serviceable guns, which could be
+turned against an enemy if occasion required. The voyage from England
+to India was by way of the Cape of Good Hope, and it lasted at least
+three or four months, and often very much more. For example, when
+Robert Clive came out to India for the first time, the vessel was so
+buffeted by contrary winds that the commander thought it best to run
+across the Atlantic and let her lie up so long in a South American
+port that Clive learned to speak Spanish with considerable fluency;
+and it was not till nearly a year after leaving England that the young
+writer arrived at Madras.<a name="pict_23" id="pict_23"></a></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/image_094.jpg" width="200" height="210" alt="THE COMPANY&#39;S FLAG."  />
+<span class="caption">THE COMPANY&#39;S FLAG.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Furthermore, besides the various adventures that were natural to a
+sea-voyage, there was the contingency of a sea-fight, and the
+possibility of being taken to Pondicherry or Batavia as a prisoner of
+war instead of being landed at Madras as a paid employee of the
+'Honourable Company.'</p>
+
+<p>It was usual for several ships to sail together, for mutual
+protection; and passengers had reason to congratulate themselves when
+they were eventually landed safe and sound at Madras. It can be
+readily imagined that the sight of a vessel of the Company approaching
+in the distance caused a stir of excitement amongst the residents of
+Fort St. George. There were no telegraphs from other ports to give
+previous notice of a vessel's prospective arrival; and the fact that a
+ship was at hand was unknown until her flag<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> or her particular rig
+was discerned in the distance, or until one of her guns gave notice of
+her approach. The comparative regularity, however, of the winds in
+Eastern seas caused 'seasons' in which vessels might be expected; and
+when a season arrived, the look-out who happened to be on duty on
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span>
+the Fort flagstaff must have been particularly alert. Ay, and there
+must have been much hurrying to and fro in the streets of White Town
+when the signal had been given and the news had spread that the sails
+of a Company's ship had been sighted, and while the vessel, perhaps
+with several consorts, came nearer and nearer, till at last the
+anchors were dropped and salutes were exchanged between ship and
+shore.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> 'The flag displayed by the Company's ships bore seven
+horizontal red stripes on a white ground, with a St. George's Cross in
+the inner top corner.'&mdash;<i>Love</i>.</p></div>
+
+<p>There was good cause for excitement. The ship brought letters from
+home&mdash;perhaps after several months of no news at all. There were the
+private letters that told the news about near ones and dear ones;
+there were the official letters that decreed appointments in the
+Company's service and promotions and penalties, and dealt with the
+Company's business; and there were the 'news-letters'&mdash;the
+old-fashioned predecessors of the modern newspaper, which were written
+by paid correspondents, whose duty it was to give their clients news
+of London and of England and of Europe. The news was often astounding,
+and was sometimes extraordinarily behind-time. For example, the
+Company's employees in India were still professing loyalty to the Most
+High and Mighty King James II nearly a twelvemonth after that monarch
+had fled to France and had been succeeded by William and Mary; and the
+employees at Madras were surprised indeed when a ship arrived one day
+from England with the belated news.</p>
+
+<p>The salutes have been fired, and the vessel has been surrounded by a
+flotilla of surf-boats and catamarans. The commander and the
+passengers are being rowed ashore, and the Governor with his
+Councillors, dressed all of them in their smartest official attire,
+are waiting on the beach outside the Sea-Gate of the Fort to bid them
+a hearty welcome. Amongst the passengers there are probably some
+youths who have been posted to Madras either as apprenticed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> 'writers'
+or as military Cadets; and perhaps there is a senior employee who is
+returning to India after the rare event of a holiday in England.
+Possibly too there are some ladies, either wives of employees who have
+been willing to accompany or to follow their husbands to the
+mysterious East&mdash;or, as was not infrequently the case, young ladies
+who, with the consent of the Directors, have been shipped out to India
+by their parents or guardians or on their own account, in the hope
+that companionable bachelor employees, pining in their loneliness,
+will jump at the chance of matrimony.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_16" id="pict_16"></a>
+<img src="images/image_096.jpg" width="600" height="465" alt="SURF-BOAT"  />
+<span class="caption">SURF-BOAT</span></div>
+
+<p>The surf-boat comes nearer and nearer; and when it gets among the
+breakers there are feminine screams of terror. The alarm is not
+without cause; for at one moment the boat is being balanced on the top
+of a heaving wave, and the next it is almost lost to sight in a
+foaming hollow.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> The excitement in the tossing boat is tremendous; but
+it is brief; for there are only three or four breakers to be
+negotiated, and in less than a minute a curling wave has caught the
+boat in its clutch and hurls it with a thud into the shallows. Naked
+coolies rush forward and lay hold of its sides, lest the backwash
+should carry it seaward again; and, with the help of the next wave,
+they manage to haul the boat a little further on shore, and the
+passengers are able to disembark&mdash;splashed, perhaps, but safe and
+sound.</p>
+
+<p>When the greetings are over, the Governor leads the way into the Fort,
+where a general meal is served and the news is told and the
+exclamations of surprise are many. In the evening there is a banquet,
+and after the banquet, 'when the gentlemen have finished their wine,'
+and have rejoined the ladies, the stately dances of the period are
+'performed;' and it is not unlikely that before the assembly breaks
+up, some, if not all, of the newly-arrived young ladies have received
+and have accepted offers of matrimony; and it is possible that two or
+more gallants have had a serious quarrel about this young lady or
+that, and even possible that, out of the Governor's sight, swords have
+been drawn in her regard.</p>
+
+<p>On the morrow the unloading begins; and for many days a fleet of
+surf-boats is busily engaged in bringing ashore the broadcloths and
+other English wares which the Company will be able to sell at a large
+profit&mdash;not forgetting the barrels of canary and madeira and other
+luxuries that have been imported both for private consumption and also
+for the general table in the Fort. And when the unloading is over and
+the ship has been overhauled after her long voyage, the surf-boats
+will then be engaged in carrying to the ship the calicoes and other
+Indian wares that are to be exported to England for the Company's
+profit there.</p>
+
+<p>The sea-trade of Madras is very much greater now than it was in the
+days of old. Not a day now passes but at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> least one steamship glides
+into the Madras Harbour, and it is always a much larger vessel than
+was the very largest of the sailing-ships that in those bygone times
+tacked laboriously to an anchorage in the Madras roads. But the
+excitement has disappeared. The steamers come and go with as little
+stir&mdash;or not so much&mdash;as when a tramcar leaves a crowded
+street-corner.</p>
+
+<p>In Madras there are still some reminders of the times when nautical
+affairs were in more general evidence in Madras than they are now. For
+example, the 'Naval Hospital Road' is still the name of a thoroughfare
+which leads from the Poonamallee Road, opposite the School of Arts, to
+Vepery, and it is a reminder of the fact that there were once upon a
+time sufficient naval men in Madras to make a hospital for sick seamen
+a necessity. The buildings of the old Naval Hospital still exist; they
+are the buildings in the Poonamallee Road opposite the School of Arts.
+In the early part of last century the Naval Hospital itself was
+abolished, and the buildings were converted into a 'Gun Carriage
+Factory'&mdash;and this is now no more. It is a good many years indeed
+since the Gun Carriage Factory was closed down; and in Madras at this
+particular time, when there is a very pressing demand for house
+accommodation, many people wonder that such spacious premises in so
+busy a quarter of the city should have been lying idle for so long and
+are hoping to see them once more serving some useful purpose.</p>
+
+<p>Another reminder of the nautical conditions of those days is to be
+found in the existence of an 'Admiralty House.' 'Admiralty House' is a
+fine residence in San Thom&eacute;, and is now the property of the Raja of
+Vizianagram. It was apparently the San Thom&eacute; residence of the Admiral
+of the East Indian fleet. That official had another residence within
+the Fort, which used also to be called 'Admiralty House'&mdash;the house
+which Robert Clive occupied at the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> time of his marriage, and which is
+now the Accountant-General's office.</p>
+
+<p>We will glance at one more reminder of the nautical Madras of bygone
+times. At Royapuram there is a large house which is now styled 'Biden
+House,' and is used as a harbour-masters' residence, but which until a
+few years ago was called 'The Biden Home' or 'The Sailors' Home.' It
+is not an ancient building, but it was nevertheless built in the days
+of the sailing-ship, and is a reminder of the times when sailing-ships
+used to lie out in the Madras Roads and the 'Sailors' Home' offered
+seamen entertainment more physically and morally wholesome than that
+which was provided in the low-class hotels and saloons which laid
+themselves out for the spoliation of Jack ashore&mdash;and of the time when
+the wreck of a sailing-ship on the Coromandel coast was not an
+uncommon occurrence and parties of distressed seamen were not
+infrequently to be seen in Madras, for whom a temporary 'Home' had to
+be provided. The 'Old Salt'&mdash;the picturesque sea-dog of sailing-ship
+days&mdash;has disappeared except from story-books&mdash;the old-fashioned
+seaman with earrings in his ears and a villainous 'quid' in his mouth,
+dressed in a blue jersey and the baggiest of blue trowsers, and
+lurching as he walked, always 'full of strange oaths', and larding his
+speech with nautical jargon. On shore, after a long sea-voyage, and
+with money in his pockets, the 'Old Salt' in an Eastern port was not
+always a factor for peace and progress. He was not uncommonly too
+frequent a visitor at what the Madras Records call the 'punch houses,'
+and the Records show that he often caused a disturbance. But he was a
+brave fellow, and at sea he did much for England's trade and for
+England's greatness. In an Indian seaport he was a picturesque, if
+troublesome, personage, and nautical Madras has changed with the Old
+Salt's disappearance.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII</h2>
+
+<h2>THE STORY OF THE SCHOOLS</h2>
+
+
+<p>A tourist who goes the round of Madras must surely be impressed with
+the numerous signs of its educational activity. Apart from the
+multitude of juvenile schools in every part of the crowded city, the
+number of academic institutions is large, and educational buildings
+are amongst the most prominent of its edifices. Our tourist, putting
+himself in charge of a guide at the Central Station for a drive along
+the beautiful Marina, sees a number of academic buildings on his way.
+The Medical College is just outside the station yard. The classic
+fa&ccedil;ade of Pachaiyappa's College for Hindus peeps at him gracefully
+across the Esplanade. The Law College lifts its Saracenic towers above
+him as he passes by. Across the road he sees the collection of
+miniature domes and spires and towers that surmount the various
+buildings that make up the far-famed Christian College. Driving along
+the Marina he sees the Senate House of the Madras University
+surmounted by its four squat towers; farther on he sees the staid
+Engineering College, and the still staider Presidency College, and,
+beyond, the whitewashed buildings of Queen Mary's residential College
+for Women; and on his way back by the Mount Road he sees the
+Muhammedan College, with its little white mosque and its spacious
+playing-fields in the heart of the city. There are yet more colleges
+in Madras; and there are also numerous large schools, some of which
+are attended by more than a thousand pupils.</p>
+
+<p>Yes, the educational activity in Madras is great; and it is
+interesting to reflect that it is a development from very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span> small
+educational enterprises in the days when Madras was young.</p>
+
+<p>The initial enterprise was small indeed. The first school in Madras
+was the little "public school for children, several of whom are
+English", which the French Capuchin priest, Father Ephraim, opened in
+his own house in White Town very soon after Madras came into being.
+His pupils were mostly Portuguese or Portuguese Eurasians, the
+children of Portuguese subjects who had come from Mylapore and who,
+for purposes of trade or commerce, had settled down within the English
+Company's domain. His English pupils must have been children of the
+very few of the Company's civil or military employees that were
+married, or of the still fewer English free settlers. Father Ephraim,
+who according to accounts was a really learned man, charged no fees,
+yet was deeply interested in the welfare of his scholars; and the
+little school must have supplied a great want in those far-off days.
+It is interesting indeed to think of that little 'public school;' for
+the room in the priest's house was the scene of the very first
+beginning of what are now the mighty educational activities of
+Madras&mdash;an earnest, moreover, of the great things that the Roman
+Catholic Church was going to do in the way of education, both for boys
+and for girls, in South India.</p>
+
+<p>Father Ephraim's school continued to prosper under his successors, and
+in the seventeenth century it was transferred, as a poor-school, to a
+building in the grounds of what is now the Roman Catholic Cathedral in
+Armenian Street; and in 1875 it was put under the control of the
+brothers of St. Patrick, an Irish order of educational monks, and it
+became St. Patrick's orphanage. Later the brothers transferred
+themselves and their orphanage to the spacious park&mdash;Elphinstone
+Park&mdash;on the southern bank of the Adyar River, the premises which they
+occupy still.</p>
+
+<p>For some thirty years the Company took no part in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> educational work,
+and the children of Madras were left entirely to Father Ephraim's
+care. Then for two years a certain Master Patrick Warner was the
+Company's temporary chaplain of Madras&mdash;a conscientious and
+uncompromising Protestant minister who wrote some long letters to the
+Directors in England denouncing the laxity of the conduct of the
+Company's employees and deploring the influence that Roman Catholic
+priests had been allowed to obtain in Fort St. George. Finally, he
+went back to England, with the threat that he was going to interview
+the Directors on various matters pertaining to Madras; and that he
+succeeded in making himself heard is to be seen in the fact that in
+the following year the Directors sent a Protestant schoolmaster out to
+Madras. The letter in which they notified the appointment to the
+Governor in Council at Fort St. George was assuredly inspired by
+Master Patrick Warner's undoubtedly high-minded representations. They
+wrote that, as there were now in Fort St. George 'so many married
+families,' they were sending out 'one Mr. Ralph Orde to be
+schoolmaster at the Fort ... who is to teach all the Children to read
+English and to write and Cypher gratis, and if any of the other
+Natives, as Portuguez, Gentues (Telugus),<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> or others will send their
+Children to School, we require they be also taught gratis ... and he
+is likewise to instruct them in the Principles of the Protestant
+religion.' Mr. Ralph Orde arrived by the same ship which brought the
+letter, and his arrival (1677) is another notable event in the history
+of education in Madras. It was the first beginning of Government
+education&mdash;the laying of the first stone in what is now such a vast
+edifice.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> In modern Madras the great majority of the Hindu
+residents are Tamils; but in the beginning there were very few Tamil
+immigrants, and the Hindu residents were nearly all of them Telugus
+(Gentoos).</p></div>
+
+<p>In appointing a schoolmaster, the Directors meant to do their best for
+education in their rising city; for they had <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span>engaged no mean
+dominie on a menial's pay. In choosing Mr. Ralph Orde they chose a
+good man, and they paid him accordingly. He was to dine at the General
+Table, and his salary was to be &pound;50 a year, which in those days was no
+small sum&mdash;more than the salary of some of the Members of Council.
+Perhaps, indeed, they got too good a man for the post; for after five
+years of educational work in Madras, Mr. Orde complained that his
+schoolmastering had been 'much prejudicial to my health,' and he asked
+to be relieved of his duties and to be appointed to a post in the
+Company's civil service instead. His request was granted. A new
+schoolmaster was appointed; and as a 'Civilian' Mr. Orde worked with
+such success that in two or three years he was sent to Sumatra to be
+the Chief of a factory that he was to found on the west coast of the
+island. The ex-schoolmaster would, perhaps, have risen to be Governor
+of Madras, but it would seem that life in the East had really been
+'much prejudicial to his health,' for he died in Sumatra ten years
+after his first arrival in Madras.</p>
+
+<p>In 1688, by virtue of the Company's Royal Charter, a Corporation of
+the City of Madras came into being, and it was among their delegated
+duties that they should build a school in Black Town for the purpose
+of teaching 'Native children to speak, read, and write the English
+Tongue, and to understand Arithmetic and Merchants' Accompts.' Three
+years later, however, Elihu Yale, Governor of Madras, complained to
+the Corporation that, although they had been empowered to levy taxes
+on the citizens, they had not so much as thought about building a
+school, and had neglected various other civic responsibilities. The
+Company&mdash;rightly or wrongly&mdash;sought to justify their inaction with the
+excuse which the Corporation of Madras has&mdash;rightly or wrongly&mdash;made
+for civic inaction so many times since, namely that 'no funds' had
+been assigned to them by Government for the works that they were
+called upon<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span> to undertake. As for taxation, they remarked that the
+people in Black Town had not been schooled to civic taxation; and it
+is true that any ruthless collection of taxes might have meant
+wholesale departures from the city, or at any rate a serious check to
+further immigration. So the municipal school for Native children never
+came into being.</p>
+
+<p>Meanwhile the Company's free school in White Town, started by Mr.
+Orde, continued its work under Mr. Orde's successors; and elementary
+instruction was imparted therein to a heterogeneous crowd of
+children&mdash;English, Eurasians, and Indians&mdash;Christians and Hindus.
+Eventually the school was put in charge of the chaplain of St. Mary's
+Church in the Fort, and the chaplain and his churchwardens agreed in
+thinking that such education was not of the kind that a Church should
+control, and that it was rather their duty to institute in Madras a
+residential free-school for poor Protestant children of British
+descent, which should be conducted on the lines of the many 'charity
+schools' in England; and in 1715, with the approval of the Directors,
+'St. Mary's Church Charity School' was founded. The event is of
+particular interest; for St. Mary's Church Charity School developed
+later into the 'Male Asylum'&mdash;the institution which has done so much
+for boys and girls for so many years, and which, after changing its
+habitation on various occasions, is now comfortably housed in spacious
+premises in the Poonamallee road.</p>
+
+<p>The year 1715 is noteworthy on another account. St. Mary's School
+having been founded solely for the benefit of children of European
+descent, the native children who had attended the Company's day-school
+were deprived of education. The Society for the Promotion of Christian
+Knowledge undertook to supply the want, by establishing schools in
+Madras for the special benefit of Indian children; and the year 1715,
+therefore, is the date which marks the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> first beginning of the
+educational work that English Protestant missionary societies have
+done in India. The Society found themselves unable to take up the work
+immediately themselves; so they applied to the vigorous Danish
+Lutheran Mission at Tranquebar, which was then a Danish settlement;
+and a Danish minister was sent to Madras to set things going.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of time Madras had become a much more habitable city
+than it had been in its first beginnings, and a much more possible
+place of residence for European women. The Company's employees,
+therefore, were more and more disposed to matrimony; and, as already
+related, the Directors, believing that married men made steadier
+employees, had from early times encouraged the nuptial humour by
+sending out from England periodical batches of well-connected young
+women as prospective brides for employees who lacked either the means
+or the inclination to take a trip home to choose partners for
+themselves. The number of European fathers and mothers, therefore, in
+Madras was continually increasing; and for the education of their
+children, as also for that of children of well-to-do Eurasians, there
+was need of a different kind of education than the various
+free-schools supplied. Home education, with or without paid tutors and
+governesses, probably served its turn with some, but it was certain
+that sooner or later the private school would come into being.</p>
+
+<p>We are unable to say when the first private school in Madras was
+started; but an advertisement in one of the issues of the <i>Madras
+Courier</i>, in 1790, shows that a private school for boys was started in
+that year; and it was probably the first. The enterprising
+educationist was Mr. John Holmes, <span class="smcap">m.a.</span>, who opened the 'Madras
+Academy' in Black Town for the instruction of boys in 'Reading,
+Writing, Arithmetic, History, the use of the Globes, French, Greek,
+and Latin.' Other towns in the Madras Presidency had<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> their English
+residents, so Mr. Holmes offered to accommodate 'a few Boarders;' and
+the offer was found so convenient that certain parents wanted
+accommodation for their girls as well as for their boys. Mr. Holmes
+was willing to receive all the pupils that he could get; for in an
+advertisement two months later he announced that he was going to move
+to a larger house in which 'apartments will be allotted for the Young
+Ladies entirely removed and separate from the Young Gentlemen.'</p>
+
+<p>The Madras Academy was eminently successful; but the mixed boarding
+school was not its most commendable side; and in the following year an
+enterprising lady-educationist announced that she was opening in Black
+Town a 'Female Boarding School,' in which her young ladies would be
+'genteelly boarded, tenderly treated, carefully Educated, and the most
+strict attention paid to their Morals,' and the school was to be
+conducted as far as possible 'in the manner most approv'd of in
+England.' The enterprising lady-educationist was a Mrs. Murray, who
+had been a mistress in the Female Asylum. Her syllabus of education
+was of a more feminine sort than that which was followed at the Madras
+Academy; for, as announced in the prospectus, it included 'Reading and
+Writing, the English language and Arithmetic; Music, French, Drawing
+and Dancing; with Lace, Tambour, and Embroidery, all sorts of Plain
+and Flowered needle-work.' The two syllabuses are interesting
+reminders as to what were the usual subjects of education for European
+boys and girls a century and a half ago.</p>
+
+<p>Schools, therefore, were available for children of every
+class&mdash;European and Indian, rich and poor; but the schools for
+Indians, conducted either by missionaries or by indigenous teachers,
+were of an elementary kind; and, apart from Oriental studies in
+indigenous institutions, there was little or nothing in the way of
+higher education for<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> Indians either in Madras or anywhere else in
+India. This condition was altered, however, during the governorship of
+Lord William Bentinck, the magnanimous if not brilliant
+governor-general whose term of office lasted for seven years, from
+1828 to 1835.</p>
+
+<p>During this period everything favoured educational progress in India.
+There was peace in England and there was peace in India. It was a time
+of great educational developments in England, as is manifested by the
+fact that within this period the London University and Durham
+University were opened, and the great British Association for the
+Advancement of Science was established. Such conditions in England had
+their influence in India, and the more so because Lord William
+Bentinck was ardent for progress. The opening of the Madras Medical
+College in 1835 was one of the signs of the times. During Lord William
+Bentinck's term of office education in India was reformed. Macaulay,
+afterwards Lord Macaulay, was an Indian official at the time, and he
+penned a notable report on education in India, in which he belittled
+vernacular learning and asserted that the Government of India would do
+well to discountenance it altogether, and to introduce western
+learning and the study of English literature into all schools under
+Government control, and to make it a rule that the English language
+was to be the only medium of instruction. Whether or not Macaulay's
+views were correct, they were adopted by the Government of India, and
+Lord William Bentinck issued in 1835 a resolution in accordance
+therewith, in which he sought to secure the people's acceptance of
+English education for their children by notifying that a knowledge of
+English would in future be necessary for admission into Government
+service. Government service is particularly coveted in India, and the
+resolution encouraged the foundation of schools of a good class in
+which special attention would be given to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> study of the English
+language; and within a few years a number of important educational
+institutions had been founded in different parts of India.</p>
+
+<p>In South India the Madras Christian College, called originally 'The
+General Assembly's Institution,' was first in the field. It was
+founded in 1837, by the Rev. John Anderson, the first missionary that
+the Church of Scotland sent out to Madras. The name of the founder is
+preserved in the 'Anderson Hall' in one of the college buildings; but
+the remarkable progress of the institution has been very specially due
+to the untiring energy of the Rev. Dr. Miller, whose statue stands on
+the opposite side of the public road. Dr. Miller was Principal for a
+number of years, and now (1921) at a great age the venerable
+educationist is living in retirement in Scotland.</p>
+
+<p>In 1839, two years after the foundation of the Christian College, the
+Roman Catholic Bishop in Madras, Dr. Carew, founded St. Mary's
+Seminary, which after forty-five years became St. Mary's College, and
+which is now represented by St. Mary's High School for Europeans and
+St. Gabriel's High School for Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Two years later, in 1841, the Presidency College had its beginning, in
+a rented room in Egmore. At its foundation it was not a Government
+institution, but was a public school under the control of governors,
+who were chosen from among the leading Europeans and Indians in
+Madras, with the Advocate-General as their first president. It was
+styled 'The High School of the Madras University,' and it was the
+founders' intention that when a college department had been added, the
+institution should be called the 'Madras University,' and should apply
+for a charter. In the sixties, however, the Madras Government was
+considering a scheme of its own for a University of Madras, whereupon
+the governors of the 'University High School' transferred their school
+to the Government, who called it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> the 'Presidency College.' The
+Presidency College continued to work in the rented building until
+1870, when the building that it now occupies was publicly opened by
+the Duke of Edinburgh.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_17" id="pict_17"></a>
+<img src="images/image_109.jpg" width="600" height="411" alt="UNIVERSITY SENATE HOUSE"  />
+<span class="caption">UNIVERSITY SENATE HOUSE</span></div>
+
+<p>Pachaiyappa's College, a well-known Hindu institution, had its first
+beginning in 1842. Like the other colleges in Madras, it began as a
+school; the school was called 'Pachaiyappa's Central Institution,' and
+was located in Black Town. The present buildings were opened in 1850
+by Sir Henry Pottinger, an ex-governor of Madras, amid a large
+gathering of leading European and Indian residents; and for a number
+of years the annual 'Day' at Pachaiyappa's College was an important
+social event. Pachaiyappa was a rich and religious Hindu, who made his
+money as a broker in the Company's service, and who died more than a
+hundred years ago leaving a lakh of pagodas&mdash;some 3&frac12; lakhs of
+rupees&mdash;for temple purposes. The trustees neglected the provisions of
+the will, whereupon the High Court<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span> assumed control of the funds,
+which under the Court's control rose to the value of nearly Rs. 7&frac12;
+lakhs. The original amount was set apart for the fulfilment of the
+terms of the will, and the surplus was assigned to educational
+purposes in Pachaiyappa's name.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;"><a name="pict_18" id="pict_18"></a>
+<img src="images/image_110.jpg" width="500" height="573" alt="PACHAIYAPPA&#39;S COLLEGE."  />
+<span class="caption">PACHAIYAPPA&#39;S COLLEGE.</span></div>
+
+<p>The education of girls shared in the development; for in 1842 the
+first party of Nuns of the Presentation Order was brought out from
+Ireland, and a convent, with a boarding school and an orphanage,&mdash;the
+'Georgetown Convent'<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span> of to-day&mdash;was established in Black Town. The
+'Vepery Convent School' and some of the other successful convent
+schools in Madras are controlled by nuns of the same Order.</p>
+
+<p>Education in India was given further impetus in the time of Lord
+Dalhousie. During his term of office (1848-1856) the present system of
+education, under a Director of Public Instruction, was introduced, and
+Government was empowered to make liberal educational grants, and to
+establish universities. The despatch in which the educational
+developments were announced has been called 'the intellectual charter
+of India.'</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_19" id="pict_19"></a>
+<img src="images/image_111.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="DOVETON PROTESTANT COLLEGE"  />
+<span class="caption">DOVETON PROTESTANT COLLEGE</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Various institutions in Madras are representative of this later
+development. A Government 'Normal School'&mdash;which has grown into the
+'Teachers' College' of to-day&mdash;was established in 1856, to increase
+the number and the efficiency of indigenous teachers; and the Madras
+University was incorporated in 1857, for the control and the
+development of higher education. Of large high schools<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> still
+existing, the Harris High School in Royapettah was founded by the
+Church Missionary Society in 1856, for the education of Mohammedan
+boys, and was named after Lord Harris, who was Governor of Madras at
+the time; and the Hindu High School, in Triplicane, was founded in
+1857. Doveton College, Vepery, for Anglo-Indian boys was opened in
+1855. It owes its existence to a wealthy Eurasian, Captain John
+Doveton, who obtained his Captaincy in the service of the Nizam of
+Hyderabad, and who left a large sum of money to an earlier
+institution, the Parental Academy, which was afterwards called Doveton
+College in the deceased officer's honour. Within later years
+philanthropic and enterprising Indians have done much for education,
+and numerous schools both for boys and for girls have been established
+by their efforts.</p>
+
+<p>An educational building of curious interest is the office of the
+Director of Public Instruction, in Nungumbaukam. It is commonly known
+as the 'Old College'. In the masonry of a large arch at the entrance,
+as well as on another arch within, quaint designs have been
+introduced&mdash;mysterious faces, and flags, and strange geometrical
+figures. The house was the property of a wealthy Armenian merchant
+named Moorat, who died more than a hundred years ago; and it may be
+supposed that the quaint designs were after the nature of family
+memorials. In the early part of last century the Armenian merchant's
+son sold the building to Government, who used it as a 'College for
+Junior Civilians.' Hence the designation 'Old College'; but the name
+does not mean that it was a building in which young civilians were
+trained, but means that it was a building in which there were
+'colleagues' in residence, or, in other words, that, the 'General
+Table' having been dissolved, the 'College' was a mess-house for
+junior civilians. Later, its large hall was for many years a
+recognized assembly-room for amateur concerts, amateur dramatic<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span>
+entertainments, and other occasions of social reunion. The quaint
+devices on the gates are still preserved, and the name of the old
+'College' still survives; but the associations have gone. Not even as
+a ghost does the long-robed Armenian merchant tread the floors; the
+junior civilians, with their ancient pranks and their antiquated
+jests, have departed; in the great hall the lilt of the song and the
+frenzy of the fiddles for the dance and the amateur mouthings of the
+drama are heard no more. A multitude of turbanned clerks are pouring
+forth the blue-black ink from their pens; schoolmasters haunt the
+portals to press their claims for educational grants for their own
+particular schools; and the click of a chorus of typewriters is the
+only music that is borne upon the breeze.</p>
+
+<p>I have told the story of the schools. It is creditable to Madras; for
+great things have been done since that first little 'public school'
+was opened in the Fort.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV</h2>
+
+<h2>HERE AND THERE</h2>
+
+
+<p>Before closing the story of Madras, it will be well to speak, at least
+very briefly, of some of the prominent landmarks of the city that we
+have not yet described.</p>
+
+<p>Of churches, we should mention St. George's Cathedral. It was opened
+in 1816, not as a cathedral but as an ordinary church; for Madras then
+was not a diocese by itself, but was a part of the immense diocese of
+Calcutta. The new church was regarded as a necessity; for a great many
+'garden houses' had sprung up in and about the Mount Road, in the area
+that was called the 'Choultry Plain,' and the Directors of the Company
+agreed with representations from Madras that it was undesirable that
+English residents within the bounds should be able to stay away from
+the Church-services on Sunday with the reasonable excuse that the
+nearest Anglican church&mdash;St. Mary's in the Fort&mdash;was too far away from
+their houses for them to be expected to attend. So the new church was
+built; and some twenty years later, when Dr. Corrie, Archdeacon of
+Calcutta, was consecrated first Bishop of Madras, the church became
+'the Cathedral Church of St. George.' St. George's Cathedral is a
+stately building, with a spire 139 feet high, and it stands in
+spacious grounds. The total cost was more than two lakhs of rupees;
+but nobody had to be asked to subscribe, for the money was available
+from a peculiar source. It was an age in which State lotteries were in
+vogue; Madras had followed the fashion with a series of official
+lotteries, and a 'Lottery Fund' had been created from the profits, so
+that there was always a good<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> supply of cash available for
+extraordinary expenses, such as mending the roads or entertaining
+distinguished visitors. It was from the Lottery Fund that the cost of
+building St. George's was met.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_20" id="pict_20"></a>
+<img src="images/image_115.jpg" width="600" height="511" alt="ST. GEORGE&#39;S CATHEDRAL."  />
+<span class="caption">ST. GEORGE&#39;S CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>St. Andrew's Church&mdash;most commonly known as 'The Kirk'&mdash;was planned
+while St. George's was being built; and it is remarkable that it was
+not projected sooner than it was. Scotchmen in Madras, as in other
+parts of India, apart from Scottish soldiers, have been many; and the
+names of a number of Madras roads and houses&mdash;such as Anderson Road,
+Graeme's Road, Davidson Street, Brodie Castle, Leith Castle, Mackay's
+Gardens&mdash;are reminders of the fact that not a few of the Scots of
+Madras have been influential; and at the time when a second Anglican
+church was being built in the city it was suggested to the Directors
+of the Company in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> England that the numerous residents who were
+members of the Church of Scotland ought to have a church too. The
+Directors, who realized no doubt the desirability of being agreeable
+to the many Scots in Madras, one of whom at the time was the Governor
+himself, Mr. Hugh Elliot, consented to the suggestion, and in 1815
+they sent out a notification that a Presbyterian church was to be
+built not only at Madras but also in each of the other Presidency
+cities at the Company's expense, and that the Company would maintain a
+Presbyterian chaplain at each. The Directors laid down no instructions
+as to what was to be the maximum cost of each kirk, but it was
+unpretentious buildings that they had in mind. At Bombay a large kirk
+was built for less than half a lakh of rupees, but for the kirk at
+Madras the Madras Government submitted a bill for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span>nearly Rs. 2&frac14;
+lakhs&mdash;some Rs. 10,000 more than the total cost of St. George's
+Cathedral, and the Directors were indignant. The Kirk, however, had
+been built; and it is one of the handsome churches of Madras.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> It is
+a domed building, with a tall steeple over the Grecian fa&ccedil;ade; and
+some of its critics have said that the combination of dome and steeple
+gives the edifice a strangely camel-backed appearance; but, however
+that may be, the dome adds beauty to the interior. When the Church was
+opened, it was found that the dome evoked disturbing echoes, and a
+large additional expense had to be incurred to exorcise the wandering
+voices. The steeple reaches a height of 166&frac12; feet, which is 27&frac12;
+feet higher than that of St. George's.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_21" id="pict_21"></a>
+<img src="images/image_116.jpg" width="600" height="493" alt="ST. ANDREW&#39;S (THE &quot;KIRK&quot;)."  />
+<span class="caption">ST. ANDREW&#39;S (THE &quot;KIRK&quot;).</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Major de Haviland, of the Madras Engineers, built St.
+George's on a plan designed by Major Caldwell, his senior in the
+service. Major de Haviland both designed the Kirk and built it, and he
+devoted himself to his work and was very proud of his creation, which
+was nevertheless much criticized by unfriendly critics.</p></div>
+
+<p>The Roman Catholic Cathedral at Mylapore has been described on page
+<a href="#Page_61">61</a>. A sketch of the handsome building is given on the next page.</p>
+
+<p>The High Court, a red Saracenic structure that spreads itself out over
+a large area between Georgetown and the Fort, is a modern building. It
+was opened within the memory of elderly lawyers of Madras, some of
+whom used themselves to practise in the big building which is now the
+Collector's Office, opposite the gate of the Port Trust premises, and
+which was for many years the habitation of the Supreme Court at
+Madras. The present High Court is a mighty monument to the development
+of 'The Law' in Madras. In the early days of Fort St. George the
+Company administered its own justice to its own people, and the court
+was held in a building in the Fort. Punishments in those far-off
+times, judicial or otherwise, were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span>usually severe; and the Records
+show that even a civil servant of junior rank who gave trouble was
+liable to be awarded some such penalty as to sit for an hour or more
+on a sharp-backed 'wooden horse,' with or without weights attached to
+the delinquent's feet. In the town that grew up outside the Fort,
+justice as between natives of the soil was administered by an Indian
+<i>adikhari</i>, who represented the lord of the soil. As the Company's
+influence and authority increased, various courts of law were
+created&mdash;and the Records show that there were certainly crimes enough
+to justify their creation. A large number of the criminal trials in
+the earlier years of Madras were in respect of thefts of children, to
+sell them as slaves, especially to Dutch merchants along the coast,
+where the victims were not likely to be traced. Slavery was a
+recognized condition of life in old Madras, as indeed it was in the
+whole of Europe; and in the Council-book of Fort St. George there is
+still to be seen an Order, dated <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>September 29, 1687, "that Mr. Fraser
+do buy forty young Sound Slaves for the Rt. Hon'ble Company," who were
+to be made to work as boatmen in the Company's fleet of surf-boats. It
+was in reference to a slave that the first case of trial by jury was
+held in Madras, in 1665, and it was a <i>cause c&eacute;l&egrave;bre</i>. The prisoner
+was a Mrs. Dawes, who was accused of having murdered a slave girl in
+her service. The Governor himself, who, like a doge of Venice, was
+both ruler and judge, was on the bench, and the twelve jurymen gave a
+unanimous verdict that Mrs. Dawes was 'guilty of the murther, but not
+in mannere and forme,' by which they seem to have meant that the
+circumstances of the case exonerated her from the capital charge.
+Being pressed to give a verdict 'without exception or limitation,'
+they brought in a unanimous verdict of 'not guilty,' whereupon the
+Governor felt that, although the woman had been guilty of a crime, he
+had no help for it but to set her free. He thereupon wrote to the
+Directors in England, expressing his disapproval of 'such an
+unexpected verdict,' and notifying that in his ignorance of the law
+and its formalities he was by no means confident that he had done the
+right thing; and the end of it was that the Governor, presumably with
+the Directors' approval, created two justices, on whom was thereafter
+to fall the responsibility of hearing all such serious cases. Change
+upon change! and to-day the Madras High Court, with the various other
+courts in different parts of the city, is a very visible symbol of the
+serious reality of the administration of justice.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"><a name="pict_22" id="pict_22"></a>
+<img src="images/image_118.jpg" width="600" height="438" alt="ST. THOME CATHEDRAL."  />
+<span class="caption">ST. THOME CATHEDRAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The story of the origin of the principal literary and scientific
+institutions in Madras is interesting. In the olden times, when there
+were no literary or scientific magazines by which an 'exile in the
+East' could keep himself in touch with the developments of genius
+throughout the world, people in India with literary or scientific
+tastes had to be content to gratify their tastes with local
+researches,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span> and to depend upon one another for any interchange of
+ideas. This meant that old-time literary and scientific societies in
+India were naturally more enthusiastic than most such societies in
+India are now. Madras indeed has been particularly fortunate in her
+time in having had residents who were earnest in cultured pursuits,
+and whose work survives, directly or indirectly, at the present day.</p>
+
+<p>For example, it was an old-time Madras Civilian, with a hobby for
+astronomy and with a private observatory of his own, that created a
+local interest in the science and is thereby to be regarded as the
+originator of the Madras Observatory&mdash;the first British Observatory in
+the East, a famous institution in olden days, which secured for Madras
+the honour&mdash;which is still hers&mdash;of setting the standard of time
+throughout the whole of India. The Madras Civilian was Mr. William
+Petrie, an extraordinarily versatile genius, who entered the service
+as a young man and rose to be a member of the Government, yet managed
+to find time for very serious astronomical pursuits in his house at
+Nungambaukam. Going home to England on long furlough, Mr. Petrie
+allowed the Madras Government to acquire his instruments; and in 1791,
+when he came back to Madras, the Madras Observatory was built, with
+Mr. Petrie as adviser.</p>
+
+<p>Another enthusiastic scientist in Madras in the same period was Dr.
+James Anderson, who, after many years of work in the Company's medical
+service, settled down at Madras as 'Physician-General,' on a salary of
+&pound;2,500 a year, and devoted himself and a large part of his handsome
+salary to botanical pursuits. He acquired in Nungambaukam more than a
+hundred acres of land, which included what are now the grounds of the
+houses that go by the names of Pycroft's Gardens and Tulloch's
+Gardens; and for nearly a quarter of a century, until his death, Dr.
+Anderson utilized his leisure in the creation and development<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> of a
+useful and ornamental botanical garden. He was most enthusiastic over
+his hobby, and he was continually carrying out botanical and
+agricultural experiments, of medical or commercial or industrial
+value. His grounds were open to the public, and 'Dr. Anderson's
+Botanical Gardens' became famous, and were a place of popular resort.
+Dr. Anderson died at the age of seventy-two; and in St. George's
+Cathedral his memory is graced with a fine statue that was carved by
+the most eminent sculptor, Sir Francis Chantrey, and for which his
+medical brethren in the Madras Service subscribed. How many years
+after his death his gardens continued to exist it might be difficult
+to say, but they must have suffered badly from the want of the ardent
+botanist's enthusiastic care. But the botanic spirit that Dr. Anderson
+had started remained alive in Madras; for in 1835, when, to the regret
+of many, his gardens had been split up into building-sites for two
+private residences, there was still a sufficient number of botanically
+inclined people in the city to found the Agri-Horticultural Society of
+Madras, a still-energetic body whose beautiful gardens at Teynampet
+deserve to be more generally appreciated by the public than they are.</p>
+
+<p>The Madras Literary Society was founded a good many years ago. Its
+work now is that of a circulating library; but in earlier times it was
+especially a 'literary society,' and its meetings, at which lectures
+were delivered or papers were read and discussed, were crowded
+gatherings of the leading Europeans in the city. The original Literary
+Society included scientific researches within its scope, and
+scientific members used to discourse learnedly on scientific subjects
+of topical interest, such as 'The Land-Crabs of Madras,' or
+'Prehistoric Tombs in the Salem District,' or 'Gold in the Wynaad of
+Malabar.' The name of the Society remains, but the literary and
+scientific meetings are no more. The last lecture, if memory fails<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span>
+not, was delivered in the nineties, and the audience was not large
+enough or enthusiastic enough to denote that lectures were any longer
+in demand. As a 'Literary Society and Auxiliary of the Royal Asiatic
+Society,' the institution has outlived its requirement; but it has a
+valuable store of more than 50,000 books, new and old, on all
+subjects, and it is continually adding to the number; and, as a
+circulating library of a high standard, it fulfils an excellent
+literary purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The Madras Museum is a magnificent institution. It is to the Madras
+Literary Society that it owes its being; and the Literary Society did
+Madras splendid service in the initiation thereof. This was in 1851,
+when the Literary Society presented its fine collection of geological
+specimens to the Madras Government as the nucleus of the rich and
+varied store of treasures that the Madras Museum now displays. The
+Government lodged the geological specimens in the 'Collector's
+Cutcherry'&mdash;a house which forms a part&mdash;the oldest part&mdash;of the Museum
+buildings of to-day. Before the Government acquired the house in 1830
+for a Cutcherry, the house had been private property, and, under the
+name of the 'Pantheon,' it had been for many years the predecessor of
+the Old College as the 'Assembly Rooms', wherein Madras Society had
+its balls, its plays, and its big dinners. The name of the old
+building still survives in the Pantheon Road, in which the Museum is
+situated.</p>
+
+<p>A high circular building on the Marina always attracts a stranger's
+attention. It has a curious and interesting history. It is commonly
+called 'The Ice-House,' and the name suggests its original purpose. A
+number of years ago, when ice-factories had not been started and when
+in Madras the luxury of the 'cool drink' was unknown, somebody
+conceived the idea of importing ship-loads of blocks of ice from
+America. The idea was developed, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> about the year 1840 a commercial
+scheme took shape. A large circular building was erected close to the
+sea-beach as a reservoir for the imported ice, which sailing-ships
+brought in huge blocks from the western world; and for a number of
+years the scheme was a commercial success. The ice was sold at four
+annas a pound, and many people in Madras remember the time when it was
+the only ice that was to be had, and large quantities of it were sold.
+With the eventual institution of ice-factories, which could supply ice
+at a much cheaper rate, the enterprise came to an end, and for a
+considerable time the ice-reservoir was out of use. Then somebody
+bought it, and put windows into the walls, and turned it into a
+residence; and meanwhile, as a result of the construction of the
+harbour, the sea receded a long way down the Ice-house shore. As a
+residence, however, a house of so strange a shape was not in request;
+and eventually some benevolent Hindus turned it into a free hostel for
+any preacher or religious teacher of repute, whatever his creed, who
+might be temporarily staying in Madras, especially if he felt that he
+had a message to deliver to the city. But the reputable prophets who
+availed themselves of the proffered hospitality were few; and the
+'Ice-house' had a deserted look. A few years ago the Madras Government
+acquired it for the excellent purpose of a 'Brahman Widows' Home' for
+Brahman girl-widows at school. This is the purpose that it now
+fulfils. From Ice-house to child-widows' home! It is a great
+transformation&mdash;from a house whose chambers were stored with hard
+blocks of cold ice to a house whose chambers are aglow with the warmth
+of young life! There is room to hope that in course of time the
+Child-widows' Home will have outlived its purpose&mdash;in the time when
+gentler ideals will prevail, and the sorrows of child-widows will have
+ceased, and the institution will no longer be a need.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV</h2>
+
+<h2>'NO MEAN CITY'</h2>
+
+
+<p>It is less than three hundred years since Mr. Francis Day, seeking a
+likely spot for a trading settlement, surveyed the desolate sea-beach
+near the mouth of the Cooum, and decided that the settlement should be
+there. A few scattered huts on the shore and a few catamarans out at
+sea were the only signs of human life, and the breakers that sported
+on the beach were the only manifestations of activity. But the years
+have gone by&mdash;wild times and quiet times, years of war and years of
+peaceful progress&mdash;and the scene has changed, and great is the
+transformation. In place of the scattered huts there are huge
+buildings on the beach, and behind them is a great and ever greater
+city. The catamarans have not disappeared, but great ships pass to and
+fro in the offing or lie within the shelter of the harbour walls. The
+little 'Factory' in the Fort, within which the Company transacted its
+mercantile business, has gone; but elsewhere in its stead there are
+big offices of numerous commercial firms; and, moreover, there are
+large 'factories' of the modern kind, such as are denoted by tall
+chimneys and the perpetual roar of whirring wheels.</p>
+
+<p>The growth of Madras is a remarkable testimony to British enterprise,
+energy, and perseverance, and also to Indian appreciation of the
+new-comers and of their methods; and it is a matter of satisfaction
+that many illustrious Indians have played an energetic and conspicuous
+part in the development of the city and the promotion of its welfare.
+In many respects the conditions were altogether unfavorable for the
+foundation of a maritime city. There was no<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> natural harbour, and the
+breakers beat continually on the shore; and the so-called river was of
+little practical use. The nearest Indian towns were a good many miles
+away, and the Portuguese merchants in the neighbouring settlement of
+Mylapore were commercial rivals, who might have been supposed to have
+absorbed all the trade that was to be had. Yet Madras is now a large
+city, with more than half a million inhabitants; and its commerce and
+its industries have been so successful that its population is still
+increasing rapidly. Houses are being built everywhere, yet the demand
+increases. Not only are the suburbs being extended, but moreover the
+gardens of existing houses are being everywhere divided, so as to
+provide further building-sites; and two houses or more now stand
+within grounds that were formerly occupied by only one.</p>
+
+<p>But it is well for Madras that, except in respect of some of its
+streets and particular localities, it is not a crowded city, and that
+there is therefore room for such additions. Madras has been called the
+'City of Distances,' and it still deserves the name; for within its
+limits there are some magnificent spaces, and in the garden of many a
+private house the resident can sit of an evening and imagine himself
+in a rural retreat, far from the madding crowd.</p>
+
+<p>Like all cities, Madras has its drab&mdash;very drab!&mdash;quarters and its
+mean&mdash;very mean!&mdash;and straggling streets. Madras was not laid out on
+any definite plan. Like ancient Rome, it had in the beginning to
+attract outsiders to come and live there, and outsiders had to be
+given much license to do things their own way, and the city was
+allowed to grow just as it would; and in respect of many of its parts
+there is much room for criticism. But Madras is a fine city
+nevertheless, with a number of stately buildings, both public and
+private, and with great possibilities; and its 'Marina' can truly be
+called magnificent.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>But the greatest charm of Madras lies in its history. It was here that
+the foundations of the Indian Empire may be said to have been laid.
+The history of Madras is not a story of aggressive warfare. The
+settlers were gentle merchants, whose weapon was not the sword but the
+pen, and whose only desire it was to be left alone to carry on their
+business in peace. But the rising city was a continual mark for the
+hostility of commercial and political rivals, both European and
+Indian. It was a storm-centre, and the storms were often fierce; and
+the merchants were often compelled to meet force with force. Moreover,
+the merchants were men, and their doings therefore were by no means
+always without reproach; but, with due allowance for human weakness,
+the history of Madras is a history of which Madras may be proud. The
+city has grown from strength to strength, and in its story there is
+much inspiration. This little book has merely told the story in part;
+but it will have served its purpose if it has in any way helped the
+reader to realize that the story of Madras is the story of no mean
+city.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span></p>
+<h2>INDEX</h2>
+
+
+<p class="center"><i>The figures refer to the pages</i></p>
+<div class="index">
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Admiralty House, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Agri-Horticultural Society, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Aix-la-Chapelle (Treaty), <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Amir Mahal, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Anderson, Dr. J., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Anderson, Rev. J., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Appar, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Arcot, Siege of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Arcot, Prince of, <a href="#Page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Armagaum, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Armenians, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Armenian street, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Assumption Church, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Aurangzeb, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Bantam, <a href="#Page_8">8</a></li>
+
+<li>Bentinck (Governor-General), <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Biden House, <a href="#Page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Black Town (Old), <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Black Town (New), <a href="#Page_29">29</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Bound Hedge, The, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Bourchier (Governor), <a href="#Page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Brahman Widows' Home, <a href="#Page_109">109</a>, <a href="#Page_110">110</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Carew (R. C. Bishop), <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Carnatic, The, <a href="#Page_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Cassa Verona, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Chandragiri (Rajah), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Chepauk, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Chepauk Palace, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_63">63-68</a></li>
+
+<li>China, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>China Bazaar, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Chintadripet, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Christian College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Clive (Governor), <a href="#Page_76">76</a>, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+
+<li>Clive, Robert, <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_28">28</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a>, <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Cochrane's Canal, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Cogan, Andrew, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a></li>
+
+<li>Convent Schools, <a href="#Page_97">97</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Cooum" id="Cooum"></a>Cooum River, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Coral trade, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Corrie, Bishop, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Corporation of Madras, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Cyclone, <a href="#Page_78">78</a>, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Dalhousie (Governor-General), <a href="#Page_67">67</a>, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Danish Lutheran Mission, <a href="#Page_92">92</a></li>
+
+<li>Da-ud Khan, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Day, Francis, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_3">3</a>, <a href="#Page_4">4</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a>, <a href="#Page_9">9</a>, <a href="#Page_111">111</a></li>
+
+<li>De Haviland, Major, <a href="#Footnote_5_5">104 (Note)</a></li>
+
+<li>Diamond trade, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Doveton College, <a href="#Page_98">98</a>, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Dupleix, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>DuPre, Mr., <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch, The, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Egmore, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, (acquisition), <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a>, (the Egmore Fort), <a href="#Page_43">43-46</a></li>
+
+<li>Elliot, Hugh (Governor), <a href="#Page_103">103</a></li>
+
+<li>Elphinstone Park, <a href="#Page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Engineering College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>'English Burying Place', <a href="#Page_51">51</a>, <a href="#Page_52">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Ephraim, Father, <a href="#Page_57">57-59</a>, <a href="#Page_88">88</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>'Factory,' The, <a href="#Page_12">12</a>, <a href="#Page_69">69</a>, <a href="#Page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>'Female Boarding School', <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Flag (E. India Co.), <a href="#Page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Fort St. George, <a href="#Page_12">12-19</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a>, <a href="#Page_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>French, The, <a href="#Page_14">14</a>, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_26">26</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27-31</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>'Garden-Houses', <a href="#Page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Gentoos (Telugus), <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Georgetown, <a href="#Page_29">29</a></li>
+
+<li>Georgetown Convent, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Goa, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Golconda, King of, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Government House, Madras, <a href="#Page_74">74-77</a></li>
+
+<li>Government House, Guindy, <a href="#Page_77">77</a></li>
+
+<li>Gyfford (Governor), <a href="#Page_72">72</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span>
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Haidar Ali, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31-33</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Harbour, The, <a href="#Page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Harris High School, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Hastings, Warren, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>High Court, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>Hindu High School, <a href="#Page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Holmes, John, <a href="#Page_92">92</a>, <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Hyderabad, Nizam of, <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Hynmers, Joseph, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Ice-House, The, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Jews in Madras, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Kuppam, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Labourdonnais, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Lally, <a href="#Page_30">30</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_40">40</a>, <a href="#Page_50">50</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Langhorn (Governor), <a href="#Page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Law College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Literary Society, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Little Mount, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Luz Church, The, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Macartney (Governor), <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Macaulay, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Madras Literary Society, <a href="#Page_108">108</a></li>
+
+<li>Madre-de-Deus Church, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Male Asylum, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_44">44</a>, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Manucci, <a href="#Footnote_1_1">9 (Note)</a></li>
+
+<li>Marina, The, <a href="#Page_79">79</a>, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Marmalong Bridge, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Mastan, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Masulipatam, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Medical College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_94">94</a></li>
+
+<li>Miller, Rev. Dr., <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Mohammed Ali (<i>See</i> <a href="#Walajah">'Walajah'</a>), <a href="#Page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Mohammedans, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Mohammedan College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>'Moors', <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Murray, Mrs., <a href="#Page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Museum, The, <a href="#Page_108">108</a>, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Mylapore" id="Mylapore"></a>Mylapore, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a> (<i>See</i> also <a href="#San_Thome">San Thom&eacute;</a>)</li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Nattukottai Chetties, <a href="#Page_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Naval Hospital Road, <a href="#Page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Nungumbaukam, <a href="#Page_37">37</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Observatory, The, <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>'Old College', The, <a href="#Page_99">99</a>, <a href="#Page_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Orde, Ralph, <a href="#Page_89">89</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Pachaiyappa's College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Parthasarathy Temple, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+
+<li>Petrie, W., <a href="#Page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Peyton, Capt., <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Peyalvar, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Pitt (Governor), <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Pondicherry, <a href="#Page_15">15</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Poonamallee (Naik), <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Popham's Broadway, <a href="#Footnote_1_1">9 (Note)</a></li>
+
+<li>Portuguese, The, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_2">2</a>, <a href="#Page_5">5</a>, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_39">39</a>, <a href="#Page_56">56</a>, <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>'Portuguese Burying Place', <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Pottinger, Sir H., <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Powney Family, The, <a href="#Page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Presentation Nuns, <a href="#Page_97">97</a></li>
+
+<li>Presidency College, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_95">95</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Pulicat, <a href="#Page_2">2</a></li>
+
+<li>Pursewaukam, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_41">41</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX"><li>Queen Mary's College for Women, <a href="#Page_87">87</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Rajah Mahal (Chandragiri), <a href="#Page_7">7</a></li>
+
+<li>Royapettah, <a href="#Page_22">22</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>St. Andrew's (The 'Kirk'), <a href="#Page_103">103</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Andrew's Church (R. C.), <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Gabriel's High School, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>St. George's Cathedral, <a href="#Page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Cathedral (R. C.), <a href="#Page_59">59</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Charity School, <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's Church (Fort), <a href="#Page_17">17</a>, <a href="#Page_47">47-55</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Mary's High School, <a href="#Page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Matthias's Church, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Patrick's Orphanage, <a href="#Page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Thomas's Mount, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="San_Thome" id="San_Thome"></a>San Thom&eacute;, <a href="#Page_13">13</a>, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>,
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>  (acquisition), <a href="#Page_38">38-40</a>,</li>
+<li>  (redoubt), <a href="#Page_43">43</a>,</li>
+<li>  Cathedral, <a href="#Page_61">61</a>, <a href="#Page_104">104</a> (<i>See</i> also <a href="#Mylapore">'Mylapore'</a>)</li>
+</ul></li>
+
+<li>Saunders (Governor), <a href="#Page_73">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Sea-Gate, <a href="#Page_80">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Senate House, <a href="#Page_87">87</a>, <a href="#Page_96">96</a>
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span></li>
+<li>Slavery in Madras, <a href="#Page_106">106</a></li>
+
+<li>S.P.C.K., <a href="#Page_91">91</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Teachers' College, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Thomas, St., <a href="#Page_38">38</a>, <a href="#Page_60">60</a>, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Tipu Sultan, <a href="#Page_31">31</a>, <a href="#Page_43">43</a>, <a href="#Page_65">65</a>, <a href="#Page_66">66</a>, <a href="#Page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Tiruvalluvar, <a href="#Page_61">61</a></li>
+
+<li>Tondiarpet, <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Trincomalee, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Triplicane, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, <a href="#Page_21">21</a>, <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_32">32</a>, (acquisition), <a href="#Page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>Triplicane River, <a href="#Page_6">6</a>, <a href="#Page_8">8</a> (<i>See</i> <a href="#Cooum">'Cooum'</a>)</li>
+
+<li>Triplicane Temple, <a href="#Page_1">1</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Umdat-ul-Umara, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>University of Madras, <a href="#Page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Uscan, Peter, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_20">20</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Vepery, <a href="#Page_1">1</a>, (acquisition), <a href="#Page_37">37-88</a></li>
+
+<li>Vepery Convent School, <a href="#Page_98">98</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li><a name="Walajah" id="Walajah"></a>Walajah (Nawab), <a href="#Page_22">22</a>, <a href="#Page_64">64-66</a></li>
+
+<li>Wall Tax Road, <a href="#Page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Warner, Rev. P., <a href="#Page_58">58</a>, <a href="#Page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Washermanpet, <a href="#Page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Weavers' Street, <a href="#Page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>White Town, <a href="#Page_19">19</a>, <a href="#Page_25">25</a>, <a href="#Page_27">27</a></li>
+
+<li>Widows' Home, The, <a href="#Page_109">109</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+
+<ul class="IX">
+<li>Yale (Governor), <a href="#Page_16">16</a>, <a href="#Page_23">23</a>, <a href="#Page_35">35</a>, <a href="#Page_53">53</a>, <a href="#Page_57">57</a>, <a href="#Page_90">90</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+</div>
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Madras, by Glyn Barlow
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: The Story of Madras
+
+Author: Glyn Barlow
+
+Release Date: September 14, 2008 [EBook #26621]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE STORY OF MADRAS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Sankar Viswanathan and The Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                    [Illustration: Chepauk Palace.
+                                   (Southern half)]
+
+
+                                 THE
+
+                           STORY OF MADRAS
+
+
+
+
+                                  BY
+
+                          GLYN BARLOW, M.A.
+
+
+                     WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+                            BY THE AUTHOR
+
+
+
+
+
+                           HUMPHREY MILFORD
+
+                       OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS
+
+                   LONDON, BOMBAY, CALCUTTA, MADRAS
+
+                                 1921
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+This little book is not a "History of Madras," although it contains a
+good deal of Madras history; and it is not a "Guide to Madras,"
+although it gives accounts of some of the principal buildings in the
+city. The book will have fulfilled its purpose if it helps the reader
+to realize that the City of Madras is a particularly interesting
+corner of the world. This fact is often forgotten; and even many of
+the people who live in Madras itself, and who are aware that Madras
+has played an important part in the making of India's history, are
+strangely uninterested in its historic remains. They are eloquent
+perhaps in denouncing the heat of Madras and its mosquitoes and the
+iniquities of its Cooum river; but they have never a word to say on
+its enchanting memorials of the past. Madras has memorials indeed.
+Madras is an historical museum, where the sightseer may spend many and
+many an hour--in street and in building--studying old-world exhibits,
+and living for the while in the fascinating past. Madras is not an
+ancient city; its foundation is not ascribed to some mythic king who
+ruled in mythic times; it has no hoary ruins, too old to be historic
+and too legendary to be inspiring. But Madras is old enough for its
+records to be romantic, and at the same time is young enough for its
+earliest accounts of itself to be--not unsatisfying fables, but
+interesting fact. The story of Madras fills an absorbing page of
+history, and the sights of Madras are well worthy of sympathetic
+interest--especially on the part of those whose lines of life are cast
+in the historic city itself or within the historic presidency of which
+it is the capital.
+
+In the following pages certain places and events have been briefly
+described more than once with different details; any such repetitions
+are due to the fact that the Story of Madras has been told in a series
+of vignettes, appertaining to particular buildings or particular
+conditions, and each vignette had to be complete in itself. It is
+hoped that such repetitions will be of familiar interest, rather than
+tedious.
+
+In respect of the facts that are recorded, apart from general history,
+I am indebted principally to the valuable Records of Fort St. George,
+which the Madras Government have been publishing, volume by volume,
+during several years, and which I have studied with interest since the
+first volume appeared. Of other works that I have consulted, I must
+specially mention Colonel Love's "Vestiges of Madras," which is a very
+mine of information.
+
+G.B.
+
+MADRAS, 1921.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                     PAGE
+PREFACE                               v
+
+CHAP.
+
+I.      BEFORE THE BEGINNING          1
+
+II.     THE BEGINNING                 5
+
+III.    FORT ST. GEORGE               9
+
+IV.     DEVELOPMENT                  18
+
+V.     'THE WALL'                    25
+
+VI.     EXPANSION                    35
+
+VII.    OUTPOSTS                     41
+
+VIII.   THE CHURCH IN THE FORT       47
+
+IX.     ROMAN CATHOLIC MADRAS        56
+
+X.      CHEPAUK PALACE               63
+
+XI.     GOVERNMENT HOUSE             69
+
+XII.    MADRAS AND THE SEA           78
+
+XIII.   THE STORY OF THE SCHOOLS     87
+
+XIV.    HERE AND THERE              101
+
+XV.    'NO MEAN CITY'               111
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+CHEPAUK PALACE                     _Frontispiece_
+
+
+                                        PAGE
+
+MAP OF MADRAS, ABOUT 1710                10
+
+CORRESPONDING MAP, 1921                  11
+
+CLIVE'S HOUSE                            16
+
+A BIT OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL             26
+
+CENTRAL GATE OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL      28
+
+A MAGAZINE IN THE BLACK TOWN WALL        30
+
+'THE OLD AND THE NEW'                    32
+
+MAP OF MADRAS                            36
+
+SAN THOME FORT                           42
+
+EGMORE FORT (SIDE VIEW)                  44
+
+REMAINS OF THE EGMORE FORT               46
+
+ST. MARY'S, FORT ST. GEORGE              49
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS                 74
+
+THE SEA GATE                             80
+
+THE COMPANY'S FLAG                       81
+
+SURF-BOAT                                83
+
+UNIVERSITY SENATE HOUSE                  96
+
+PACHAIYAPPA'S COLLEGE                    97
+
+DOVETON PROTESTANT COLLEGE               98
+
+ST. GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL                  102
+
+ST. ANDREW'S (THE 'KIRK')               104
+
+ST. THOME CATHEDRAL                     106
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHRONOLOGICAL NOTES
+
+
+The East India Company established                               A.D. 1600
+
+First English settlement, at Masulipatam                              1611
+
+Site of Madras acquired by Mr. Francis Day                            1639
+
+The acquisition confirmed at Chandragiri by the Hindu
+    'Lord of the Carnatic'                                            1639
+
+The Hindu lord of the Carnatic (the Raja of Chandragiri)
+    dethroned by the Mohammedan Sultan of Golconda                    1646
+
+The Company secure from Golconda a fresh title to their
+    possessions
+
+The Sultan of Golconda dethroned by the Moghul
+    Emperor, Aurangzeb, who appoints a 'Nawab of the
+    Carnatic'                                                         1687
+
+The Company secure from a representative of the Emperor
+    a fresh title to their possessions
+
+Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic, invests Madras for
+    three months, and is finally bought off                           1702
+
+In Europe, England and France are engaged in the War
+    of the Austrian Succession                                   1740-1748
+
+Dupleix, who is possessed with the idea of making France
+    politically influential in India, is appointed Governor of
+    Pondicherry                                                       1742
+
+In the war in Europe he sees an opportunity for fighting
+    the English in India, and French forces under LaBourdonnais
+    capture Madras                                                    1746
+
+Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, by which Madras is restored to
+    the English                                                       1748
+
+Two Carnatic princes quarrel for the Nawabship                        1749
+
+The French and the English in South India join in the
+    quarrel on opposite sides. In the name of the claimant
+    whom the English supported, Clive captures Arcot,
+    the capital of the Carnatic, and then defends the town
+    against the rival claimant and his French supporters              1749
+
+The French are defeated in the open field, and the
+    struggle is at an end                                             1752
+
+In Europe, England and France are engaged in the Seven
+    Years' War                                                   1756-1763
+
+In India, Count Lally besieges Madras unsuccessfully for
+    more than two months                                    A.D. 1758-1759
+
+The English defeat the French at Wandiwash                            1760
+
+The English capture Pondicherry                                       1761
+
+Treaty of Paris, by which Pondicherry is restored to the
+    French                                                            1763
+
+(The town was captured again in 1786 and in 1803).
+
+Haidar Ali makes himself Sultan of Mysore about 1760,
+    and reigns till his death, which occurred in                      1781
+
+Tipu, his son, succeeds him, and reigns till he is slain in
+    defending his capital, Seringapatam, against an assault
+    by the English                                                    1799
+
+(Madras was frequently disturbed by the raids of the
+    father and of the son; and Tipu's death relieved
+    the townsmen of constant anxiety.)
+
+The Supreme Court of Judicature established at Madras                 1801
+
+In default of an heir, the Carnatic 'lapses' to the Company           1855
+
+The Madras Railway opened for traffic                                 1856
+
+The Indian Mutiny                                                1857-1859
+
+The Madras University instituted                                      1857
+
+The High Court established                                            1861
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ERRATUM
+
+On page 1, _for_ 'Madraspatnam' _read_ 'Madraspatam.'
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+BEFORE THE BEGINNING
+
+
+Three hundred years ago, Madras, under the name of 'Madraspatnam' was
+a tiny rural village on the Coromandel Coast. Scattered about in the
+neighbourhood there were other rural villages, such as Egmore, Vepery,
+and Triplicane, which are crowded districts in the great city of
+Madras to-day. In Triplicane there was an ancient temple, a centre of
+pilgrimage, dating, like many village temples in India, from very
+distant times; this was the Parthasarathy temple, which is the
+'Triplicane Temple' still. A little fishing village called Kuppam,
+lying directly on the seashore, sent out, even as Kuppam does now, its
+bold fishermen in their rickety catamarans in perilous pursuit of the
+spoils of the sea. There was one small town in the neighbourhood,
+namely, the Portuguese settlement at Mylapore, where the tall facades
+of the several churches, peeping over the trees, formed a land-mark
+for the Portuguese ships that occasionally cast anchor in the roads.
+
+Such was the scene in 1639, the year in which our story of Madras begins.
+The Portuguese had already been in India for nearly a century and a half;
+and under their early and able viceroys they had made themselves powerful.
+The stately city of Goa was the capital of their Indian dominions, and they
+had settlements at Cochin, Calicut, Mylapore, and elsewhere. But the
+influence of the Portuguese was now on the wane. For nearly a century they
+had been the only European power in India and the Eastern seas; but
+merchants in other European countries had marked with jealous eyes the rich
+profits that the Portuguese derived from their Eastern traffic, and
+competitors appeared in the field. First came the Dutch, who in India
+established themselves at Pulicat, some twenty-five miles north of
+Mylapore. Holland had lately thrown off the yoke of Spain, and was full of
+new-born vigour; and Dutch trade in the East--chiefly in the East India
+Islands--was pushed with a rancorous energy that roused the vain
+indignation of the decadent Portuguese. Six years later, in 1600, came the
+English. The English traders were employees of the newly-established East
+India Company, and were sent out to do business for the Company in the
+East; and they had to face the opposition of the Dutch as well as of the
+Portuguese. Their earliest enterprise was in the East India Islands, and it
+was eleven years before they gained their first footing in India, at
+Masulipatam. Here they established an agency and did very considerable
+business; later they formed a fortified sub-agency at Armagaum, a good way
+down the coast, not far from Nellore. At first their fortunes went well;
+but local rulers exacted ruinous dues, and at Armagaum in particular the
+local ruler, alarmed at the influence that the English merchants had
+gained, set himself so seriously to the work of handicapping their trade
+that Mr. Francis Day, the Company's representative at Armagaum and a member
+of the Masulipatam Council, proposed to the Council that he should be
+allowed to seek a field for commercial enterprise more favourable than
+either Armagaum or Masulipatam. To Mr. Francis Day was committed the
+business of finding a suitable spot for a fresh settlement.
+
+It was an important commission. The East India Company's existence
+depended entirely upon the profits of their trade. The Company's
+enterprise at Armagaum was hopeless; at Masulipatam it was very
+unsatisfactory; and Mr. Francis Day was appointed to find a place
+where the commercial prospects would be bright.
+
+It should always be remembered that the East India Company was
+established purely as a commercial association, with its head office
+in London, and that its employees in India were men with business
+qualifications, appointed to carry on the Company's trade. The prime
+concern even of an Agent or a Governor was the making of good bargains
+on the Company's behalf--and sometimes on his own--getting the best
+prices for European broadcloths and brocades, and buying as cheaply as
+possible Indian muslins and calicoes and natural produce, for
+exportation to London, where they were sold at a large profit. Any
+fighting in which the Company's servants engaged was merely incidental
+to the pursuit of business in a land in which the ruling sovereigns,
+as well as the many small chiefs, were constantly at war. It is a
+maxim that 'Trade follows the Flag;' but in the case of India the Flag
+has followed Trade.
+
+It is as a commercial man, therefore, that we must picture Mr. Francis
+Day setting out on his commercial mission; but it can be imagined that
+the English merchant, starting on an expedition in which he would be
+likely to seek personal interviews with rajas and nawabs and bid for
+their favour, set out in such style as would do the Company credit. In
+our mind's eye we picture Master Francis Day, Chief of Armagaum,
+standing on the deck of one of the Company's vessels lying at anchor
+in the Armagaum roads, and receiving his colleagues' farewells. His
+garb is that of a substantial merchant in the days of King Charles I.
+It has none of the extravagances that were the fashionable
+affectations of gay Cavaliers, but its sobriety makes it none the less
+smart. He wears a purple doublet and hose, a broad white collar edged
+with lace, and a gracefully-short black-velvet cloak. Curly hair
+falls beneath his broad-brimmed black hat, but not in long and scented
+ringlets such as were trained to fall below the shoulders of
+fashionable gallants at King Charles's court. He is in every way a
+fitting representative of the Honourable Company.
+
+The bo'sun has piped his whistle, and the last good-byes have been
+said. The anchor's weighed, and the white sails are spread to the
+breeze. Master Day waves his hand to his colleagues in the surf-boat
+which is taking them shoreward, and the ship is headed to the south.
+The expedition is important--yes, and it was much more important than
+Master Day imagined; for something more serious than profits on muslin
+and brocade was on the anvil of fate.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+THE BEGINNING
+
+
+Mr. Francis Day was not sailing southward without definite plans. As
+the result of enquiries for a promising spot for a new settlement, it
+was his purpose to see if there was a favourable site in the
+neighbourhood of the old established Portuguese settlement at
+Mylapore. The Portuguese authorities at Mylapore, with whom Mr. Day
+seems to have corresponded, were not unwilling to have English
+neighbours. The ill-success of the English merchants at Masulipatam
+had probably allayed any fears that they would be formidable rivals to
+Portuguese trade at Mylapore; and furthermore the Portuguese welcomed
+the idea of European neighbours who would be at one with them in
+opposition to the forceful Dutchmen at Pulicat, up the coast, who
+showed no respect, not even of a ceremonious kind, for any vested
+interests--commercial or administrative--to which the Portuguese laid
+claim.
+
+So Mr. Francis Day's vessel, standing no doubt well out to sea as it
+sailed past the foreshore of the Pulicat lagoon with its unfriendly
+Dutchmen, kept its course till the Mylapore churches were sighted and
+showed that the place where the first inquiries were to be made had
+been reached. The sails were furled and the anchors were dropped, and
+we may imagine that a salute was fired in honour of the King of
+Portugal, and was duly acknowledged.
+
+It was in winter that Mr. Francis Day arrived--a time of the year when
+Madras looks its best and when the sea-horses are not always at their
+wildest tricks; and Mr. Francis Day landed without accident, and was
+pleased with the scene. There are always breakers, however, on the
+Coromandel Coast, and Mr. Day found the landing so exciting that in
+his report to the Council at Masulipatam he wrote of 'the heavy and
+dangerous surf'. But after an inspection of the surroundings he was
+satisfied with the conditions; he considered that at the mouth of the
+Cooum river there was an advantageous site for a commercial
+settlement; and the local ruler, the Naik of Poonamallee, following
+the advice of the Portuguese authorities, encouraged him in the idea
+of an English settlement within the Poonamallee domain.
+
+It is not surprising that Mr. Francis Day was pleased with what he
+saw; for Madras is not without beauty. In those idyllic days,
+moreover, the Cooum river, which was known then as the Triplicane
+river--and which even to-day can be beautiful, although for the
+greater part of the year it is no more than a stagnant ditch--must
+have been a limpid water-way; and to Mr. Francis Day, seeing it in
+winter, in which season the current swollen by the rain sometimes
+succeeds in bursting the bar, it must have appeared almost as a noble
+river, rushing down to the great sea--a river such as might well have
+deserved the erection of a town on its banks. The fact that the
+Portuguese had been at Mylapore for more than a century showed that a
+settlement was full of promise--and the more so for men with the
+energy of the English Company's representatives; and the conditions
+were such that Mr. Francis Day felt himself justified in entering into
+negotiations with the Naik for the grant of an estate extending five
+miles along the shore and a mile inland.
+
+The negotiations were successful: but the Naik was subordinate to the
+lord of the soil, the Raja of Chandragiri, who was the living
+representative of the once great and magnificent Hindu empire of
+Vijianagar; and any grant that was made by the Naik of Poonamallee
+had to be confirmed by the Raja if it was to be made valid. Two or
+three miles from Chandragiri station, on the Katpadi-Gudur line of
+railway, is still to be seen the Rajah-Mahal, the palace in which the
+Raja handed to Mr. Francis Day the formal title to the land. The
+palace still exists, and it is a fine building, though partly in
+ruins. It is constructed entirely of granite, without any woodwork
+whatsoever; but its abounding interest lies not in its structure but
+in the fact that it was in this palace that the British Empire in
+India may be said to have been begotten.
+
+There is no little interest in the thought that it was the Raja of
+Chandragiri that delivered the deed of possession to Mr. Francis Day.
+The Raja was an obscure representative of a magnificent Indian Empire
+of the past; Mr. Francis Day was an obscure representative of a
+magnificent Indian Empire that was yet to be; and the document that
+the Raja handed to Mr. Francis Day was in reality a patent of Empire,
+transferred from Vijianagar to Great Britain. It was at Chandragiri
+that the British Empire in India was begotten; it was at Madras that
+the British Empire was born.
+
+Mr. Francis Day had fulfilled his mission. He had secured territory
+where the conditions seemed to give promise of success; and his work
+was approved. His superior officer, Mr. Andrew Cogan, Agent at
+Masulipatam, came away from Masulipatam to take charge of Madras, and
+with the co-operation of Mr. Francis Day he set about the development
+of the Company's new possession.
+
+Of Mr. Francis Day's personal history we know little or nothing except
+that he was one of the Company's employees, and that he founded first
+an unsuccessful settlement at Armagaum--represented to-day by no more
+than a lighthouse--and afterwards a successful settlement at Madras.
+Later he was put in charge of the second settlement that he had
+founded, but he was relieved of, or resigned, the office at the end of
+a year. He then went to the Company's head-quarters at Bantam, in
+Java, and afterwards to England. What finally became of him is
+apparently unknown.
+
+It would probably be difficult to say whether Mr. Francis Day was a
+great man with great ideals, or was merely a shrewd man of business,
+reliable for an important commercial mission. Remembering that the
+Company was strictly a commercial concern, we may think it likely
+that, in fixing upon Madras as a site for the Company's business, he
+was guided almost entirely by the question of trade-profits, and that
+in his mind's eye there were no prophetic visions of imperial glory.
+And it has been asked indeed whether or not he really chose well in
+choosing Madraspatnam by the Triplicane river as the site of the
+proposed new settlement; for there are those who have argued that the
+prosperity of Madras has been due to dogged British enterprise and
+placid Indian co-operation, not to natural advantages, and that Madras
+has prospered in spite of Madras. We must bear in mind, however, the
+limited geographical knowledge of the times and the limitations to Mr.
+Francis Day's choice; and, whatever the verdict may be, the fact
+remains that the Madraspatnam of Mr. Francis Day's selection is now a
+vast city, and that the Empire of India which was born at Chandragiri
+is now a mighty institution.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+FORT ST. GEORGE
+
+
+When the tract of land at Madras had been formally acquired, the
+European colony at Armagaum was forthwith shipped thereto (February,
+1640). According to accounts, the colony, with Mr. Andrew Cogan at the
+head, assisted by Mr. Francis Day and perhaps another chief official,
+included some three or four British 'writers,' a gunner, a surgeon, a
+garrison of some twenty-five British soldiers under a lieutenant and a
+sergeant, a certain number of English carpenters, blacksmiths and
+coopers, and a small staff of English servants for kitchen and general
+work.
+
+'Madras was a sandy beach ... where the English began by erecting
+straw huts.' So says an old-time chronicle,[1] the work of an early
+resident of Madras; and, if we take the word 'straw' in a broad sense,
+we can easily conceive the scene. In Madras the bamboo and the palmyra
+grow in abundance, furnishing materials for the quick provision of
+cheap and commodious accommodation; and we can picture the pilgrim
+fathers of Madras camped in palmyra-thatched mat-sheds on the north
+bank of the Cooum river, near the bar, the while that the houses
+within the plan of the fort are being built.
+
+[Footnote 1: The chronicle was written by Manucci, an Italian doctor
+of an adventurous disposition, who, after varied and surprising
+experiences in northern India, settled down in Madras in 1686, and
+married a Eurasian widow. 'Manucci's Garden,' where he lived, covered
+a large area which is now occupied by a number of the houses at the
+Law College end of Popham's Broadway, on the side that is nearest the
+sea. The garden was watered by a stream that used to flow where the
+Broadway tram-lines now hold their course. _Vide_ map, p. 10.]
+
+[Illustration: MADRAS about 1710, A.D.]
+
+[Illustration: Modern map (approximate) corresponding to the foregoing
+map. (1) Old black Town is no more. (2) the Fort was extended about
+1750. To provide ground, the Cooum was diverted.  (3) The sea has
+receded.]
+
+The 'sandy beach' has been waked from its longaeval placidity. Trains
+of bullock-carts are lumbering along new-made tracks, bringing stone
+and laterite and bricks and timber from various centres; and endless
+files of coolies, with baskets on their heads, are bringing sand from
+the summer-dry edges of the bed of the Cooum river. In the foreground
+of the picture, scores of chattering village-labourers, from
+Triplicane and other hamlets hard by, are working under the directions
+of the mechanical employees of the Company, chipping stone, mixing
+lime, sawing timber, carrying bricks and stones and mortar, or laying
+them adroitly in place, with little dependence on line and level.
+
+In the course of a few months the buildings were sufficiently advanced
+for occupation. The main building was the 'factory,' which formerly
+signified a mercantile office; and it was here that the Company's
+chief officials, who were styled 'factors' (agents), assisted by
+writers and apprentices, transacted the Company's business, and were
+also lodged. Included amongst the buildings were warehouses for the
+Company's goods, and also barrack-like residences for the Company's
+subordinate British employees, civil and military, according to their
+rank.
+
+From the very beginning the settlement was called Fort St. George, but
+it was several years before the buildings were surrounded by a high
+and fortified wall. It was in no spirit of military aggression that
+the Company's agents enclosed their settlement with a bastioned
+rampart, from whose battlements big cannon frowned on all sides round.
+The Company's representatives were 'gentle merchaunts,' to whom peace
+spelt prosperity; but the times were lawless, and the gentle merchants
+were wise enough to recognize that days might come when it would be
+necessary to defend their merchandise and themselves, as well as the
+town of Madras, from the roving robber or the princely raider or the
+revengeful trade-rival, and that military preparedness was a dictate
+of prudence. The days came!
+
+On such occasions the excitement in Fort St. George must have been
+great. We can imagine the anxiety with which, when the sentry gave the
+alarm, the gentle merchants climbed upon the walls and looked out at
+the horsemen that were to be descried in the distance, and asked one
+another disconsolately whether it was in peace or in war that they
+came. A brief notice of some of the occasions on which the Fort was in
+danger will be interesting.
+
+Some fifty years after the Fort had been founded, a party of soldiers
+under the Commander-in-Chief of the Mohammedan King of Golconda
+pursued some of the King's enemies into Madras, "burning and Robbing
+of houses, and taking the Companies Cloth and goods," whereupon the
+Governor of the Fort sent them word that "he would use means to force
+them out of the Towne: Uppon which they retreated out of shott of the
+Fort." They returned, however, with additional strength, and for eight
+months they besieged the stronghold, but without success; and then
+they wearied of their hopeless endeavour, and marched away.
+
+Later, a Dutch force, supported by Mohammedan cavalry, besieged San
+Thome, which was then in the hands of the French; and for the purpose
+of the siege they occupied Triplicane village, mounting their cannon
+within the walls of Triplicane Temple, which they used as a fort.
+During the several weeks of the siege of San Thome a powerful Dutch
+squadron blockaded the coast of Madras; and, as Britain and Holland
+were at war in Europe, there was constant anxiety in Fort St. George;
+but the Dutchmen contented themselves with the capture of San Thome,
+and were prudent enough to let Fort St. George alone.
+
+In the days of Queen Anne, Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic, at the
+head of a large force, was reported to be marching to Madras. In Fort
+St. George there was much anxiety as to the purpose of his visit, and
+'By order of the Governor and Council' various protective measures
+were immediately proclaimed. The proclamation is to be found in full
+in the Company's Minutes; and we find an amusing reminder of the
+Company's mercantile _raison d'etre_ in the fact that immediately
+after the military edicts comes the order 'That all the Company's
+cloth be brought from the washers, washed and unwashed, to prevent its
+being plundered.' The Nawab came, and he uttered threats, but he was
+mollified with luxurious entertainment. Inviting himself and his dewan
+and his chamberlain to dinner with the Governor and Councillors in the
+Fort, he was received with imposing honours, and was feasted in the
+Council Chamber at a magnificent banquet. The minutes relate that
+after dinner he was "diverted with the dancing wenches," and finally
+he got "very Drunk." At breakfast the next day in the Company's
+'Garden,' His Highness again got "very drunk and fell a Sleep;" and a
+few days later he marched his army away. In his sober moments,
+however, he had been slyly measuring the Company's strength; and six
+months later he came back with a larger force, and blockaded Madras.
+He plundered all that he could, and on one occasion his spoil included
+"40 ox loads of the Company's cloth." For more than three months the
+blockade continued, and the Company's trade was entirely stopped, and
+provisions in Madras were exceedingly scarce. Da-ud Khan, eventually
+wearying of the unsuccessful siege, named the price that would buy him
+off; and the Council, fearing the wrath of the Directors at the loss
+of their trade, were glad to come to terms. The Company's Minute on
+the occasion is a brief but exultant record: 'The siege is raised!'
+
+In 1746 there was a siege of a more serious sort. England and France
+were at war in Europe, and suddenly a squadron of French ships
+appeared off Fort St. George. After a week's siege, the English
+merchants capitulated to superior force, and they were all sent to
+Pondicherry as prisoners, and the French flag waved over Madras; but
+by the treaty which ended the war, Madras was restored to the Company.
+Twelve years later Madras was once more besieged by the French, but
+unsuccessfully, and eventually the French leaders marched their forces
+away, quarrelling among themselves over their ill-success.
+
+On several occasions, bodies of horsemen in the service of the
+adventurous Haidar Ali of Mysore, raided the country almost up to the
+Fort ditch, and were sometimes to be seen shaking their spears in
+defiance at the sentries on its walls.
+
+These were not the only occasions on which Fort St. George was
+assailed, but they suffice to show how necessary it was that the
+Company's employees and their wares should be housed within the walls
+of a fort.
+
+Fort St. George in the beginning was very small. Its external length
+parallel with the seashore was 108 yards, and its breadth was 100
+yards. When White Town, which grew up around it, was fortified, there
+was 'a fort within a fort' (_vide_ Map, p. 10); but eventually the
+inner wall was demolished. At various times the outer wall has been
+altered, but the Fort as we have it to-day is the selfsame Fort St.
+George nevertheless, a glorious relic of bygone times, and verily a
+history in stone.
+
+The gates of Fort St. George open towards main thoroughfares of
+Madras, and it is permitted to anybody to pass in and out; but it is
+not visited nearly so much as its historic associations deserve. Let
+us pass within, and see if we cannot catch something like inspiration
+from the scene where so much history has been made, and where a great
+Empire was born.
+
+[Illustration: CLIVE'S HOUSE]
+
+An old-world feeling comes over us directly we leave the highroad and
+make our way down the sloped passage and across the drawbridge over
+the moat, past the massive gates and under the echoing tunnel that
+leads through the mighty walls. Within we see the parapets on which in
+bygone days the cannon thundered at the foe. We pass on into the great
+spaces of the Fort; and in our imagination we can people them with
+ghosts of the illustrious--or notorious--dead. It was here that, in
+the reign of King James the Second, Master Elihu Yale assumed the
+Governorship of Madras, did hard work in the Company's behalf but also
+made a large fortune for himself, lost his son aged four, quarrelled
+long and bitterly with his councillors, and was at last superseded. It
+was here that Robert Clive, aged nineteen, newly arrived from
+England, entered upon his duties as an apprenticed writer in the
+Company's service, at a salary of five pounds per annum; it was here,
+in St. Mary's Church, eight years later, when he had won his first
+laurels, that he married the sister of one of the fellow-writers of
+his griffinhood; and it was here, in 'Clive's House,' which is still
+to be seen (now the Office of the Accountant-General), that he lived
+with his wife. The ancient Council Chamber is replete with historic
+associations; and St. Mary's Church offers material for many
+researchful and meditative visits. The streets have history in their
+names. 'Charles and James Street,' for example, which is a present-day
+combination of two streets of yore, is jointly commemorative of the
+days of the Merry Monarch and of his royal but unfortunate brother.
+Enough! It is not my purpose to produce a guide-book to Madras, but to
+promote an appreciation of the historic interests of the city; and I
+take it that the reader has realized that Fort St. George is
+interesting indeed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+DEVELOPMENT
+
+
+When an English colony had settled down in Fort St. George, it was
+only to be expected that a town would spring up outside. The personal
+necessities of the numerous colonists had to be supplied, and
+purveyors and bazaarmen and workmen made themselves readily available
+for the supply. The requirements in respect of the Company's
+mercantile business were yet greater. The Company's agents wanted not
+only native employees in their office--'dubashes' and 'shroffs' and
+clerks and interpreters and porters and peons, but they also wanted
+wholesale buyers of the cloth and other articles that they imported
+from England for sale, and also merchants who could supply them with
+large quantities of the Indian wares that the Company exported to
+England; and they were able to get the men that they wanted.
+
+A crowd attracts a crowd; and when once a town has begun to grow, it
+goes on growing of its own accord; and ten years after the acquisition
+of Madras, the population of the town was estimated at as many as
+15,000 souls. The Fort itself, moreover, had to be enlarged; for the
+growth of the Company's business meant that more and more factors and
+writers had to be brought out from England, and more and more
+warehouses had to be provided for the multiplied wares; and, moreover,
+the increasing lawlessness of the times necessitated a larger
+garrison. Outside the Fort, Indian and other immigrants flocked from
+near and far to settle down within the Company's domains, looking for
+profit under the white men's protection; and, with their enterprising
+spirit, they played no small part in the development of Madras.
+
+The town that grew up outside the little fort was divided into two
+sections--'the White Town' and 'the Black Town.' The boundaries of
+White Town corresponded roughly with what are now the boundaries of
+Fort St. George itself. The original Black Town--'Old Black
+Town'--covered what is now the vacant ground that lies between the
+Fort and the Law College, and included what are now the sites of the
+Law College and the High Court (_vide_ Map, p. 10). The inhabitants of
+White Town included any British settlers not in the Company's service
+whose presence the Company approved, also all approved Portuguese and
+Eurasian immigrants from Mylapore, and a certain number of approved
+Indian Christians. White Town indeed was sometimes called the
+'Christian Town.' Black Town was the Asiatic settlement. The great
+majority of the original Indian settlers were not Tamilians but
+Telugus--written down as 'Gentoos' in the Company's Records.
+
+The Company's agents encouraged people of various races to reside in
+Madras; and the names of some of the streets and districts of the town
+are interesting testimonies as to the variety of the people who came.
+
+Armenian Street--which began as an Armenian burial-ground (_vide_ Map,
+p. 10)--is an example. Armenians from Persia, like their
+fellow-countrymen the Parsees, have a racial gift for commerce; and
+Armenian merchants had been in India long before the English arrived.
+Enterprising Armenian merchants settled in Madras in its early days to
+trade with the English colonists, and the Company's agents were glad
+to have as middlemen such able merchants who were in close touch with
+the people of the land. The most celebrated of the earlier Armenians
+in Madras was Peter Uscan, Armenian by race but Roman Catholic in
+religion, who lived in Madras for more than forty years, till his
+death there in 1751, at the age of seventy. He was a rich and
+public-spirited merchant. He built the Marmalong Bridge over the Adyar
+river, on one of the pillars of which a quaint inscription is still to
+be read, and he left a fund for its maintenance; he also renewed the
+multitude of stone steps that lead up to the top of St. Thomas's
+Mount. His inscribed tomb is to be seen in the churchyard of the
+Anglican Church of St. Matthias, Vepery, which in olden days was the
+churchyard of a Roman Catholic chapel. Within the last half-century
+the Armenian community in Madras has been rapidly declining, as the
+result, probably, of inability to cope with the hustling style of
+commercial competition in these latter days; and only a very few
+representatives of the race are now to be seen in the city.
+
+In Mint Street there is a small enclosure which is the remains of what
+was once a Jewish cemetery of considerable size; and the graves that
+are still to be seen are interesting reminders of the fact that in
+bygone times there was a Hebrew colony in Madras. In more than one of
+the Company's old records the Jews in Madras are referred to as being
+rich men, some of whom held positions of high civic authority. Some of
+them were English Jews, and others were Portuguese; and most of them
+were diamond merchants, on the look-out for diamonds from the mines of
+Golconda, which were formerly very productive. The English Jews
+exported diamonds to England, and imported silver and coral to Madras;
+coral was in great demand in India, and was sent out by Jewish firms
+in London. There is still a 'Coral Merchants' Street' in Madras, a
+continuation of Armenian Street, and it is a living reminder of the
+old Jewish colony. The Golconda mines eventually ceased to be
+productive, and Jewish diamond merchants are no longer to be seen in
+the city, and the Jewish colony has long since disappeared. Jews are
+notorious all the world over as money-lenders, and it may perhaps be
+wondered why none of them survived as money-lenders in Madras; but the
+fact that Coral Merchants' Street is now the habitat of Nattukottai
+Chetties, who are past-masters in the art of money-lending, suggests
+that even the Jews were unable to compete with Madras sowcars in the
+business of usury, and that the Chetties displaced the Jews who used
+to live in the street. The little Jewish cemetery in crowded Mint
+Street is an interesting spot. One of the antique tomb-stones has been
+caught in the branch of a tree and has been lifted high in air, and is
+a quaint sight; and the deserted little Hebrew graveyard itself is
+symbolic of the dispersion of the ancient people.
+
+It is a curious fact that the Company's employees in South India never
+spoke of Indian Mohammedans as Mohammedans or as Moslems or as
+Mussalmans, but always as 'Moors.' It is thus that the name of 'Moor
+Street' is to be accounted for. The original 'Moors Street' was a
+street in which Mohammedans used to live, and the fact that one
+particular street in a large city should have borne such a name is
+evidence of another fact, namely, that in the earlier years of Madras
+very few Mohammedans resided in the town. It should be remembered that
+Madraspatnam, Triplicane, Egmore, and the other hamlets that went to
+make up the city of Madras were all of them Hindu villages; and it was
+only now and again that Mohammedans, in some capacity or another,
+found their way into the town. In the earlier years of Madras a single
+mosque sufficed for all the few Mohammedans therein. The mosque was
+located in 'Moors Street' in old Black Town, a street that was the
+predecessor of the 'Moor Street' of to-day. It was not till nearly
+fifty years after the acquisition of the site of Madras that a second
+mosque was built--in Muthialpet; and these two small mosques supplied
+Mohammedan requirements for many years. The fact is that Madras was so
+frequently troubled by successive Mohammedan enemies--the King of
+Golconda; Da-ud Khan, Nawab of the Carnatic; Haidar Ali, Sultan of
+Mysore; his son Tipu, and others--that the Company was disposed to
+regard all 'Moors' with mistrust, so much so that they discouraged
+Mohammedan residents; and a measure was passed with the special
+intention 'to prevent the Moors purchasing too much land in the Black
+Town.' There are large crowds of Mohammedans in Madras now, grouped
+especially in Chepauk and the adjoining Triplicane and Royapettah; and
+this is due to the fact that in later days Nawab Walajah of Arcot, who
+was friendly to the English, came and settled down in Madras. He built
+Chepauk Palace for his residence, and the many Mohammedans who
+followed him into the city formed the nucleus of a large Mohammedan
+colony.
+
+The name 'China Bazaar' appears early in the Madras Records; and it
+would seem to have been the place where Chinese crockery was on sale.
+Whether or not the salesmen were Chinese immigrants I cannot say; but
+the fact that another street in Madras bears the name of 'Chinaman
+Street' suggests that there was at one time a colony of pig-tailed
+yellow-men in the city. The supposition is not unlikely, for China was
+included within the sphere of the Company's commercial operations,
+with Madras as the head-quarters of the trade, and ships of the
+Company plied regularly between China and Madras. Tea was one of the
+articles of trade, but Chinese crockery was in great demand in India,
+and ship-loads of cheap China bowls and plates and dishes were
+imported; and valuable specimens of Chinese porcelain were highly
+esteemed by wealthy Indians--so much so that it is on record that one
+of the Moghul emperors had a slave put to death for having
+accidentally broken a costly China dish which the emperor particularly
+admired.
+
+As the Company's trade was very largely in cloth, it can be understood
+that the Company's agents were eager to induce spinners and weavers to
+settle in Madras, so that cloth might be bought for the Company at the
+lowest possible prices from the weavers direct. Elihu Yale, who was
+one of the early Governors of the Fort, imported some fifty
+weaver-families and located them in 'Weavers' street', the street that
+is now known as Nyniappa Naick Street, in Georgetown. Some twenty-five
+years later, Governor Collet established a number of imported weavers
+in the northern suburb of Tiruvattur, in a village that was given the
+name 'Collet Petta' in the Governor's honour--a name that degenerated
+into 'Kalati Pettah'--'Loafer-land'--its present appellation. There
+was still a demand for more weavers, and eventually a large vacant
+tract was marked out as a 'Weavers' Town,' under the name of Chindadre
+Pettah--the modern Chintadripet. In order to attract weavers, houses
+were built at the Company's expense, which weavers were permitted to
+occupy as hereditary possessions. It was formally decreed that "None
+but Weavers, Spinners, and other persons useful in the Weaving trade,
+Painters (i.e. designers of patterns for chintz), Washers (bleachers),
+Dyers, Bettleca-merchants (beetle-sellers), Brahmins and Dancing
+women, and other necessary attendants on the pagoda (erected in the
+settlement) shall inhabit the said town." In Chintadripet to-day there
+are still many spinners and weavers; and one of the sights in
+Chintadripet--growing gradually more rare--is the spectacle of
+primitively-clad urchins or grown men spinning in the streets with
+primitive gear and in primitive fashion; and it is interesting to
+recall the fact that this has been going on in Chintadripet for nearly
+two centuries--an industry which the Company established.
+
+Washermanpet is another such locality. It was not so called, as many
+people imagine, for being a land of dhobies (male laundresses). In the
+Company's vocabulary a 'washerman' was a man who 'bleached' new-made
+cloth; and the Company employed a number of bleachers. The bleaching
+process needed large open spaces--washing-greens--on which the cloth
+could be laid out in the sun to be bleached; and Washermanpet covered
+a considerable area.
+
+A great many more of the streets and districts of Madras have history
+in their names; but the few that we have dealt with suffice to
+exemplify the manner of the expansion of the city of Madras. We can
+picture the rustic suppliers crowding into the city to sell the
+produce of their fields; we can picture the humble weavers migrating
+into the city with their wives and their children, and with their pots
+and their pans and their quaint machines, in response to the Company's
+tempting invitation; we can picture the small tradesmen and the small
+mechanics setting up their humble shops in the new city in which they
+believed that fortunes were to be made. And in the higher grades of
+life we can picture the grave Armenian merchants, the submissive Jews,
+the mistrusted 'Moors,' and others seeking interviews with Stuart or
+Georgian-garbed factors of the Company, and eager all of them to turn
+the Company to profitable account.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+'THE WALL'
+
+
+Skirting a thoroughfare in Old Jail Street, in North Georgetown, is
+still to be seen a part of 'the Wall' that protected Black Town in
+bygone days. This interesting remnant of the Wall of Madras might
+before long have been levelled to the ground, either by successive
+monsoons or by philistine contractors in want of 'material;' but, with
+a happy regard for a relic of Old Madras, the Madras Government have
+recently undertaken the task of preserving the ruin, which they have
+officially declared an 'historic memorial.'
+
+The 'Wall of Madras' is worthy of a meditative visit, but, in order
+that the meditation may be on an historic basis, it is necessary to
+know something about the Wall itself.
+
+We have seen that when the Company established themselves at Madras,
+in 1639, they first built a small fort for the protection of
+themselves and their goods. Around the walls of the Fort a number of
+Christians--English and Portuguese and Eurasians--settled down, and
+what was called 'White Town' came into being. Within a term of years
+this White Town was itself enclosed within fortified walls, which were
+finally identical with the wall round Fort St. George to-day. There
+was thus 'a fort within a fort;' but in course of time the inner wall
+was pulled down.
+
+Immediately outside the northern wall of White Town lay Black Town,
+inhabited by Indians--employees and purveyors of the Company, as well
+as merchants, shop-keepers, industrialists, and the rest. It should be
+borne in mind that the site of this original Black Town was
+altogether different from the site of the later Black Town, the
+'Georgetown' of to-day. Old Black Town, as already explained, extended
+from the northern wall of the Fort to what is now called the Esplanade
+Road, and it covered the ground that is now taken up by the Wireless
+Telegraph enclosure, the grounds of the High Court, and those of the
+Law College (_vide_ map, p. 10).
+
+Black Town was at first without any wall, and, as the times were
+unsettled, the place was exposed to the serious danger of being raided
+by any adventurous band of marauders. Very soon, however, a beginning
+was made of enclosing the town with a mud wall; and in the reign of
+Queen Anne a wall was built with masonry. Meanwhile, moreover,
+numerous houses and streets had sprung up outside the wall, on the
+site of the Georgetown of to-day.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL]
+
+In 1746 the French captured Fort St. George; and they destroyed not
+only the Black Town Wall but also Black Town itself. It was a
+disastrous episode in the history of Madras. For six years the English
+and the French had been at war in Europe, and the relations between
+the English and French colonists in India were naturally strained; but
+they were settlers within the dominions of Indian rulers, and,
+although both the English and the French had ships and soldiers for
+the protection of their settlements, they realized that they were not
+at liberty to make war upon each other. The settlers, moreover, were
+employees of mercantile companies, working for dividends; and war,
+with its calamitous expenditure, was not within their design. But
+Dupleix, the talented French Governor of Pondicherry, had ambitious
+ideas for the extension of French influence in India, and, in defiance
+of Indian rulers, war broke out. In the beginning there were several
+engagements at sea between a French squadron under Labourdonnais and
+an English squadron under Captain Peyton. The English squadron was
+worsted, and had to put into Trincomalee Harbour, in Ceylon, to refit.
+Thereupon Labourdonnais, after making quick preparations at
+Pondicherry, sailed for Madras; and the alarm in the Fort and in the
+city must have been great when his ships appeared off the coast and
+proceeded to bombard the settlement. His guns, however, did but little
+damage, and the citizens woke up the next morning to find, to their
+great content, that the enemy had sailed away during the night.
+Meanwhile Captain Peyton, having repaired his ships, was unaware of
+what had happened at Madras, and sailed from Ceylon to Bengal, without
+touching at Fort St. George. Possibly he was lured to Bengal by bogus
+messages of French origin; for, as soon as he was out of the way,
+Labourdonnais reappeared off Madras, better prepared than before.
+Having succeeded in landing a considerable force, he erected batteries
+on shore and from various points he bombarded White Town, which was
+now the actual Fort St. George. At the end of an unhappy seven days
+the garrison capitulated. The French marched into the Fort, and all
+the English residents, civil and military--including the Governor and
+the Members of Council, and also Robert Clive, who was then a young
+clerk--were sent to Pondicherry as prisoners of war.
+
+For nearly three years the French flag flew over Fort St. George,
+until, in accordance with the Treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, made between
+the combatants in Europe, Madras was restored to the Company.
+
+[Illustration: CENTRAL GATE OF THE BLACK TOWN WALL]
+
+During their occupation the French had made great changes. Feeling the
+necessity of strengthening their position, their military commanders
+realized what had apparently not been recognized by the Company's
+employees, untrained in war--namely that a weak-walled native town
+lying right against the northern wall of Fort St. George was a
+serious danger. The houses offered convenient cover for any enemies
+that might attack the Fort; and, moreover, any disaffected or venal
+townsman was in a position to give the assailants valuable help. The
+French Governor set himself, therefore, to the deliberate destruction
+of Black Town. He first destroyed the Town Wall, and then--for a
+distance of 400 yards from the northern wall of White Town, or the
+present Fort St. George--he demolished every house. The area that is
+now represented by the Wireless Telegraph Station and the grounds of
+the High Court thus became an open space. Meanwhile they constructed a
+moat and glacis round the walls of White Town, which, with certain
+alterations, are the moat and glacis of Fort St. George to-day.
+
+The Records express the melancholy interest with which the Company's
+employees, when they re-entered Madras, took note of the changes that the
+enemy had made in the familiar settlement. The Councillors apparently
+conceived that it was in a wanton spirit of destruction that the greater
+part of Black Town had been wiped out; for they formally decided that the
+streets that had been destroyed should be rebuilt. It may be supposed
+however, that their military advisers counselled them otherwise; for, so
+far from the old houses being rebuilt, those that had been left standing
+were destroyed. The open space was allowed to remain; and 'New Black
+Town'--the modern 'Georgetown'--began to be developed. It continued to be
+called 'Black Town' until the visit of the Prince of Wales (afterwards King
+George V) to Madras in 1906 when it was formally re-named
+'Georgetown'--ostensibly in Prince George's honour, but in reality to meet
+the wishes of a number of the residents who sought an opportunity of
+getting rid of what they regarded--quite reasonably--as an objectionable
+name for the locality in which their lot was cast. The disappearance of the
+historic name is a matter for historic regret, but a concession had to be
+made to the intelligible wishes of residents.
+
+[Illustration: A MAGAZINE IN THE BLACK TOWN WALL]
+
+The Company, bearing in mind that the French had been able to capture
+Madras, realized that it was necessary to strengthen the defences of
+Fort St. George and also to provide adequate protection for the new
+native city that had grown up outside the Fort's protective walls and
+was absolutely without defence. The defences of the Fort were taken in
+hand at once, though the work was by no means completed; and the
+Directors in England readily sanctioned the construction of a wall
+round New Black Town. It was well that the security of the Fort was
+looked to without any long delay; for in 1758, a large French army
+under Count Lally besieged the Fort again--but so unsuccessfully that,
+after sixty-seven days of persistent endeavour, they beat a sudden
+retreat. It was a good many years, however, before the building of
+the wall round Black Town was taken seriously in hand--and then only
+because the Company had been given a succession of sharp warnings that
+it was absolutely necessary that new Black Town should be protected.
+
+The French themselves had given the first warning during the siege
+under Count Lally; for, although they were powerless against the Fort,
+they were able to enter Black Town without opposition, and they made
+use of some of the houses for the purpose of the siege. The next
+warning was given a few years later when Tipu, the son of Haidar Ali,
+Sultan of Mysore, after ravaging the country round Madras, came so
+near to the city itself that parties of his horsemen were scampering
+about in the suburb of Chintadripet. Tipu's raid induced the Company
+to bring forth the approved but long-shelved plans for a wall round
+Black Town; but there was still much more discussion than work. The
+Company needed yet another awakening; and they got a stern one two
+years later. We quote the story from the Company's official records,
+published by the Madras Government. It is contained in a minute in the
+official Diary of Fort St. George, dated the 29th of March, 1769,
+which runs as follows:--
+
+     About 8 o'Clock this morning several Parties of the Enemy's
+     (Haidar Ali's) horse appeared in the Bounds of this Place at
+     St. Thome and Egmore, from which latter place some guns were
+     fired at them.... At eleven o'Clock a fellow was caught
+     plundering at Triplicane and brought into Town, who gave
+     Intelligence that Hyder himself was on the other side of St.
+     Thome with the greatest part of his horse. In the afternoon
+     Advice came that the Enemy's horse were moving from St.
+     Thome round to the Northward with a design, as was supposed,
+     to make an attempt on the Black Town.
+
+It would have been difficult to have defended the unwalled town; and
+on the following day the Council of Fort St. George sent Mr. DuPre,
+Chief Councillor and succeeding Governor, to Haidar Ali's camp, on
+the other side of the Marmalong Bridge, to come to terms with the
+invader; and within three days a treaty had been made. The treaty,
+said Mr. DuPre, writing to a friend, "will do us no honor: yet it was
+necessary, and there was no alternative but that or worse."
+
+After this humiliation the building of the Wall was regarded as a
+pressing necessity; and within a year the work was practically
+finished.
+
+[Illustration: 'THE OLD AND THE NEW'
+
+Corner of the Medical School built into a portion of the Black Town
+Wall.]
+
+It was well indeed that the work was done; for a few years afterwards,
+on the 10th of August, 1780, Haidar's cavalry raided San Thome and
+Triplicane, killing a number of people; and the terror in Black Town
+was so great that crowds of the inhabitants took flight. Fortunately,
+however, the Governor was able to issue the following notification for
+the reassurance of the public:--'A sufficient number of guns have been
+mounted on the Black Town wall,' and 'nothing has been omitted that I
+can think of for the security of the Black Town.' Haidar was not
+sufficiently venturesome to attack the fortified town; but the terror
+of the inhabitants was by no means at an end; for a little later came
+the disastrous news that a British force sent out to meet the invader
+had been cut to pieces at Conjeevaram. Eventually, however, the
+Mysoreans were defeated, and the treaty of peace was a triumph for the
+Company.
+
+The long delay in the building of the Wall was chiefly due to the fact
+that the representatives of the Company, being commercial men,
+naturally gave their chief attention to the Company's mercantile
+business, and were apt to disregard the immediate necessity of
+expensive schemes which the Company's military officers put forward as
+strategic requirements. When the Wall was first talked about, after
+the recovery of Madras from the French, the Directors in England, who
+always kept a tight hand on the Company's purse-strings, declared that
+the inhabitants of Black Town ought to be made to pay for the cost of
+their own defences, and should be taxed accordingly; and the name of
+the 'Wall Tax Road,' which runs alongside the Central Station to the
+Salt Cotaurs, is a standing reminder of the Directors' decree, while
+the road itself is an indication of the alignment of the western wall.
+The people protested indignantly against being taxed for the purpose,
+and, as a matter of fact, the representatives of the Company in India
+doubted whether they would be within their legal rights in compelling
+them to pay; and the tax was never actually levied. What with the Wall
+Tax Road on the west and the seashore on the east, the existing
+remains on the north, and the Esplanade on the south, it is not
+difficult to form a general idea of the direction of the four sides of
+the wall within which the later Black Town was enclosed.
+
+Such is the story of 'The Wall;' and the remains are an interesting
+relic of lawless times when at any minute it was possible that crowds
+of terror-stricken folk would suddenly be pouring through the
+gateways of the city at the alarming news that strange horsemen were
+dashing here and there in one or another of the suburbs, demanding
+money and jewels from the people and slaughtering unhappy individuals
+who tried to evade a response.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+EXPANSION
+
+
+We have seen that the Company were careful to develop both White Town
+and Black Town. They were not content, however, with mere
+developments, for they took pains also to extend their territorial
+possessions.
+
+The strip of land that was acquired by Mr. Francis Day was not large.
+Roughly, it extended along the seashore from the mouth of the Cooum to
+an undefined point beyond the present harbour, somewhere in the
+neighbourhood of Cassimode, and inland as far as what was called the
+North River, which is now represented by Cochrane's Canal--the canal
+that runs between the Central Station and the People's Park. It will
+be interesting to note how some of the various other parts of the
+present city came into the Company's possession.
+
+[Illustration: MADRAS (APPROXIMATELY)]
+
+On several occasions the representatives of various dynasties that
+were successively supreme over Madras made grants of additional land
+to the Company. The village of Triplicane was the first
+addition,----some twenty years after the acquisition of Madras. The
+village was granted by the representative of the Mohammedan King of
+Golconda, for an annual rent of Rs. 175, which ceased to be paid when
+the Golconda dynasty shortly afterwards came to an end. Later, in
+compliance with a petition by Governor Elihu Yale to the Emperor
+Aurangzeb, the Company received a free grant of 'Tandore (Tondiarpet),
+Persewacca (Pursewaukam), and Yegmore (Egmore).' Still later, in the
+reign of Aurangzeb's son and successor, the village of Lungambacca
+(Nungumbaukam), now the principal residential district of Europeans in
+Madras, was granted to the Company, together with four adjoining
+villages, for a total annual rent of 1,500 pagodas (say Rs. 5,250).
+The Emperor's officers argued that the rent ought to have been larger,
+but the Company, conforming to the spirit of corruption that was in
+fashion, were wily enough to send by a Brahman and a Mohammedan
+conjointly a sum of Rs. 700 'to be distributed amongst the King's
+officers who keep the Records, in order to settle this matter.' The
+village of Vepery--variously called in olden documents Ipere, Ypere,
+Vipery, and Vapery--lay between Egmore and Pursewaukam; and the
+Company, being naturally desirous of consolidating their territory,
+proceeded at once to try to obtain a grant of the place; but
+successive efforts on the part of Governor Elihu Yale came to naught;
+and it was not till much later (1742) when the Nawab of Arcot was lord
+of the soil, that Vepery was acquired from the Nawab. The manner of
+its acquisition is interesting. The preceding Nawab had just been
+murdered, and the Carnatic army disowning the ambitious rival who had
+murdered him, proclaimed the dead Nawab's son as his successor. The
+new Nawab was but a youth, and he was residing at the time in one of
+the big houses in Black Town. The Company were politic enough to
+celebrate the lad's accession with grand doings. They escorted him in
+a splendid procession to the Company's Gardens, which were situated
+along the bank of the river Cooum, where the General Hospital and the
+Medical College now stand. In the Gardens there was a fine house,
+containing a spacious hall, which the Company had specially designed
+for great occasions; and there the lad's accession was formally
+announced; and finally he was escorted in procession back to his
+dwelling. The Company profited by their politic demonstration; for, in
+return for their courtesies to the young Nawab, the lad gratified
+their desires by making them a rent-free grant of the village of
+Vepery, and also of Perambore and other lands. It may be added that
+the boy-king was unfortunate; for he was murdered within two years of
+his accession, at the instance of the man who had murdered his father.
+
+San Thome was acquired in 1749; and the story of the acquisition is
+not without interest. The names 'San Thome' and 'Mylapore' are often
+used as alternative designations for one and the same locality; but in
+bygone days the two names represented quite different places. Mylapore
+was a very ancient Indian town, which seems to have been in existence
+long before the birth of Christ. San Thome was a seventeenth century
+Portuguese settlement close by. It is an old tradition that St. Thomas
+the Apostle was martyred just outside Mylapore; and when the
+Portuguese first came to India some of them visited Mylapore to look
+for relics of the saint. They found some ruined Christian churches,
+and also a tomb which they believed to be the tomb of St. Thomas; and
+soon afterwards a Portuguese monastery was established on the spot. A
+Portuguese town grew up around the monastery; and in course of time
+the town became a commercial centre, and was surrounded with a
+fortified wall, and was the Portuguese settlement of San Thome, over
+against the Indian town of Mylapore. An Italian dealer in precious
+stones who visited India in the sixteenth century wrote of San Thome
+that it was 'as fair a city' as any that he had seen in the land; and
+he described Mylapore as being an Indian city surrounded by its own
+mud wall. Mylapore was thus in effect the Black Town of San Thome; but
+in later days the two towns were combined. When the English came to
+Fort St. George, the power of the Portuguese was already waning; and
+the development of the influence of the English at Madras meant a
+further lessening of the influence of the Portuguese at San Thome;
+and it was a natural consequence that San Thome, including Mylapore,
+became a prey to successive assailants. Its first captor was the lord
+of the soil, the Mohammedan King of Golconda. Next, the French took it
+from Golconda; and two years later Golconda, with the help of the
+Dutch, recaptured it from the French. The Dutch were content with a
+share of the plunder for their reward, and left Golconda in
+possession. On the self-interested advice of the English at Fort St.
+George, Golconda destroyed the fortifications. He then put the town up
+for sale. The Company were prepared to buy it, and so were the
+Portuguese; but a rich Mohammedan named Cassa Verona found favour with
+Golconda's Moslem officials, and secured the town on a short lease.
+Next it was leased to the Hindu Governor of Poonamallee; and then for
+a big price it went back again to the Portuguese. Towards the end of
+the seventeenth century the great Moghul Emperor Aurangzeb dethroned
+the lord of the soil, the King of Golconda; and, although the
+Portuguese were not turned out of San Thome, it was now a part of the
+Moghul Empire, and was put in charge of a Moslem ruler. After
+Aurangzeb's death, the Moghul Empire broke up, and the Nawab of Arcot
+eventually became independent, and San Thome was part of his
+dominions. In 1749, when Madras, after the French occupation, was
+restored to the English by an order from Paris, in accordance with the
+treaty of Aix la Chapelle, Dupleix at Pondicherry was bitterly
+disappointed at the rendition, and he formed designs for the
+acquisition of San Thome for France, as a set-off for the loss of
+Madras. The English at Fort St. George had information of his schemes,
+and, being in no way desirous of having aggressive Frenchmen for close
+neighbours, they forestalled Dupleix by persuading the Nawab to make
+the Company a grant of 'Mylapore, _alias_ St. Thome,' on condition
+that the Company should undertake to help the Nawab with men and
+money whenever he should call upon them to do so. It was thus that San
+Thome became a British possession; and, although it was afterwards
+ravaged successively by the French under Count Lally and by Haidar Ali
+of Mysore, it has remained a British possession ever since.
+
+We have said enough to show the manner in which the different parts of
+the modern city of Madras came into the hands of the English. The
+methods were not always wholly admirable; but we must remember that
+the East India Company was a mercantile association, fighting for its
+existence under diamond-cut-diamond conditions; and we must remember
+also that, although its representatives at Madras were sent out to
+India not to rule but to earn dividends for the shareholders, yet the
+Company's rule over Madras was so upright that crowds of people were
+continually flocking into Madras to enjoy its benefits.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+OUTPOSTS
+
+
+The suburban lands which were successively granted to the Company were
+not protected either by the walls of Fort St. George or by the walls
+of Black Town, and it was accordingly necessary that special means
+should be adopted for their defence. The Company's military engineers
+devised the erection of small suburban forts ('redoubts'),
+block-houses, and batteries, which were to be mounted with cannon and
+to be in charge of an appropriate garrison, and were to serve as
+outposts for the protection of the outlying quarters of the city.
+
+On the northern side of Black Town the batteries and block-houses were
+linked together by a thick-set hedge of palmyras, bamboos,
+prickly-pear, and thorny bushes, such that neither infantry nor
+cavalry could force a way through. Later it was decreed that the
+'Bound Hedge,' as it was called, should be extended so as to encircle
+the whole city. The work, however, was never completed, for as late as
+1785 an influential European inhabitant of Madras, addressing the
+Government on the subject of the insecurity of the city, wrote:--
+
+     "Was the Bound Hedge finished, no man could desert. No Spy
+     could pass; provisions would be cheap. All the Garden
+     Houses, as well as thirty-three Square Miles of Ground,
+     would be in security from the invasions of irregular Horse."
+
+Of the suburban fortifications the two largest were at Egmore and at
+San Thome. Next in size were those at Nungumbaukam and at Pursewaukam.
+Of smaller works there were many. Of the fortifications at
+Nungumbaukam and at Pursewaukam all traces have disappeared; but of
+the larger ones at San Thome and at Egmore interesting remains are
+still to be seen.
+
+[Illustration: San Thome Fort.
+
+A PORTION OF THE EXTENSIVE RUINS IN THE GROUNDS OF 'LEITH CASTLE,' SAN
+THOME]
+
+The remains of the San Thome Redoubt stand within the grounds of
+'Leith Castle,' a house that lies south of the San Thome Cathedral.
+The remains are ruins, but the massive walls fifteen feet high and
+three feet thick, are suggestive of the purpose for which the redoubt
+was built. The 'Records' show that the San Thome Redoubt, built in
+1751, was a very complete fortification, with a moat forty feet wide,
+a glacis, and all the other works that are usual in respect of a well
+appointed building of the kind. That it was of a large size is to be
+seen in the fact that, when the French under Count Lally were
+besieging Madras, an English officer was officially directed 'to stay
+in St. Thome Fort with the Europeans belonging to Chingleput, four
+Companies of sepoys, and fifty horse.'
+
+The Egmore Redoubt was a good deal older than that of San Thome. It
+was constructed in the days of Queen Anne. It was intended, of course,
+for the special protection of Egmore; but in those distant days when
+trips to the hills were unknown, even Egmore was a health-resort in
+respect of the crowded Fort St. George, and it was officially reported
+that the Egmore Redoubt might 'serve for a convenience for the sick
+Soldiers when arrived from England, for the recovery of their health,
+it being a good air.' The Egmore Redoubt was evidently a need; for the
+'Records' tell us that on various occasions its guns were fired at the
+enemy. The enemy were for the most part horsemen of Haidar Ali or of
+Tipu, his son and successor; and in 1799 the year in which Tipu was
+killed, the need for the Redoubt disappeared. Adjoining the precincts
+of the Redoubt were the premises of the Male Asylum, an Anglo-Indian
+Orphanage, which required to be extended, and in the following year
+the Madras Government gave the Redoubt to the Asylum, and the two
+premises were turned into a common enclosure. In the beginning of the
+present century the Directors of the Asylum sold their Egmore estate
+to the South Indian Railway Company and removed to new premises in the
+Poonamallee road; and what remains of the Egmore Redoubt is now the
+habitation of some of the Railway employees.
+
+[Illustration: THE EGMORE FORT (SIDE VIEW)]
+
+The remains are of quaint interest. At some date or another the
+authorities of the Asylum had an upper story added to one of the
+military buildings, with the result that there is the strange
+spectacle of a row of windowed chambers on the top of a buttressed and
+battlemented wall, windowless and grim. The upper story has been built
+into the battlements in such a manner that the outline of the
+battlements is still clearly visible, and the building is a composite
+reminder of old-time war and latter-day peace. The whole of the
+lower part of the building, with its massive walls and its frowning
+aspect, is of curious and suggestive interest; and the ground around,
+which is extensively bricked, is a reminder of the fact that the
+Redoubt in its original form was large indeed. The place provides
+interesting material for antiquarian speculation.
+
+[Illustration: REMAINS OF THE EGMORE FORT.
+
+_The building is in the Male Asylum Road, and is now the residence of
+some railway employees. Its upper part has been built upon a
+battlemented wall, and doors have been let into the wall. The outlines
+of the original wall and of some of the battlements can be easily
+traced._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII
+
+THE CHURCH IN THE FORT
+
+
+St. Mary's Church within the walls of Fort St. George is the oldest
+Protestant church in India, and, except for some of the oldest bits of
+the Fort walls, it is the oldest British building in Madras city, and
+even in India itself. It dates from 1680.
+
+When Madras was rising upon its foundations, the Company's employees
+were not only without a church but also without a pastor; for the
+Company did not think it necessary to go to the expense of providing a
+chaplain for so small a community. But it was an age in which
+religious services on Sunday were seldom neglected; and it may be
+conceived that, in default of a chaplain at Fort St. George, the
+Governor himself or his delegate read the Church Service on Sunday
+morning and evening, in the hearing of the assembled employees of the
+Company, and perhaps also some selections from the published sermons
+of distinguished Elizabethan divines.
+
+In the Portuguese settlement of San Thome there were numerous Roman
+Catholic priests, and some of them ministered to the numerous
+Portuguese and other Roman Catholic residents of White Town around
+Fort St. George, as also of Black Town close by. So numerous indeed
+were the Roman Catholic residents of White Town within three years of
+the foundation of the Fort that the Governor permitted a French priest
+to build a chapel in the Town. It was thus not a little anomalous that
+in a British settlement, founded under the auspices of such a
+redoubted antipapist as Queen Elizabeth, there was a Roman Catholic
+church with a priest in charge, yet neither a church nor a pastor of
+the established religion.
+
+In 1645, however, the Company's Agent at Fort St. George forwarded to
+higher authority "a petition from the souldiers for the desireing of a
+minister to be here with them for the maintainance of their soules
+health;" and in the following year a chaplain was sent out. There was
+still no Protestant church, but the celebration of religious services
+was held in careful regard; for the chaplain read morning and evening
+prayers every day of the year in a room in the Fort appointed for the
+purpose, and it was compulsory upon all the youthful employees of the
+Company to attend regularly, under the penalty of a fine.
+
+Chaplains came and chaplains went, and for some sixteen years they
+continued their ministrations in the room in the Fort. A small church
+was then built; but, with the Company's developing trade, the
+population of White Town increased so rapidly that before long the
+little church was too small for the number of the worshippers. When
+Mr. Streynsham Master, after a long term of years in the Company's
+service, was appointed Governor of Madras, one of his first acts was
+the circulation of a voluntary subscription paper for the building of
+a church that should be worthy of the Company's rapidly developing
+South Indian possession. He headed the list with a subscription of a
+hundred pagodas (Rs. 350), a sum which represented much more than it
+does now; for it was more than Mr. Streynsham Master's pay for a whole
+month as Governor of Madras. Subscriptions from the Councillors, as
+well as from the factors and writers and apprentices, were
+proportionately big; and on the 28th of October, 1680, St. Mary's
+Church was solemnly opened, and the guns of the Fort roared forth loud
+volleys in honour of the event. The steeple and the sanctuary were
+added later; but, for the rest, the present church, except for
+details, is the very same church that was built some two hundred and
+fifty years ago, in the reign of Charles II.
+
+[Illustration: ST. MARY'S, FORT ST. GEORGE.]
+
+It is interesting to note that the church at Madras was built during a
+period when in London a great many churches were being built--or
+rebuilt--after the Great Fire. Church-building was in vogue, with the
+distinguished Sir Christopher Wren as the builder in chief; and it is
+not unlikely that what was being done so energetically in London was
+one of the influences that inspired Mr. Streynsham Master to be so
+earnest over a scheme for building a church in Madras. It may be
+noted, moreover, that St. Mary's Church within the Fort at Madras is
+of a style that was very much in fashion in London at the time.
+
+In deciding to build a new church, the Governor and his colleagues
+realized that if ever the Fort should be bombarded, a shot from the
+enemy's guns was as likely to fall upon the church as upon a fortified
+bastion; so the roof of the church was made 'bomb-proof,' in
+preparation for possibilities. Events proved the reasonableness of the
+measure; for on more than one occasion the church was a factor in war.
+
+In 1746, when the French were besieging Fort St. George, the British
+defenders lodged their wives and children and their domestic servants
+in the bomb-proof church, and they took refuge there themselves in the
+intervals of military duty. During the three years that they occupied
+Madras, the French, fearing that they might be besieged in their turn,
+used the bomb-proof church as a storehouse for grain and as a
+reservoir for drinking-water. The church organ they sent off to
+Pondicherry as one of the spoils of war.
+
+At the end of the war Madras was restored to the Company, but a few
+years later the Fort was besieged by the French again. During the
+interval, some of the houses had been made bomb-proof, and in these
+the women and children were lodged, but St. Mary's Church was used as
+a barrack, and its steeple as a watch-tower. Lally, the French
+commander, failing to capture Madras, had to march away with his hopes
+baffled; but, notwithstanding its bomb-proof roof, the church, as also
+its steeple, had been badly damaged during the destructive siege, and
+the necessary repairs were considerable.
+
+A few years later the English had their revenge. They captured
+Pondicherry, and they destroyed its fortifications. They recovered,
+with other things, the organ that had been looted from St. Mary's;
+but, as a new one had in the meanwhile been obtained for St. Mary's,
+the recovered instrument was sent to a church up-country. According
+to accounts, moreover, they took toll for the Frenchmen's loot by
+sending to St. Mary's from one of the churches in Pondicherry the
+large and well-executed painting of the 'Last Supper,' which is still
+to be seen in the church. The origin of the picture is not known for
+certain; but it is believed with reason to be a fact that it was a
+spoil of war from Pondicherry on one or another of the three occasions
+on which that town was captured by the British.
+
+The stray visitor who wanders round St. Mary's without a guide is apt
+to be astonished at what he sees in the churchyard. A multitude of old
+tomb-stones, of various ages and with inscriptions in various tongues,
+lie flat on the ground, as close to one another as paving-stones, in
+such fashion that the visitor must wonder how there can be sufficient
+room for coffins below. As a matter of fact, the coffins and their
+contents are not there, and the inscriptions of 'Here lyeth' and 'Hic
+jacet' are not statements of facts. The explanation is an interesting
+story, which is worth the telling.
+
+In the Company's early days, the 'English Burying Place,' (_vide_ Map,
+p. 10) lay a little way outside the walls of White Town, in an area
+which is now occupied by the Madras Law College with its immediate
+precincts. Later, when a wall was built round old Black Town, the
+Burial Ground was included within the enclosure of the wall. An
+English cemetery in a corner of an Indian town was not likely to be
+treated with any particular respect; and on various counts the
+'English Burying Place' was a sadly neglected spot. Nearly every
+Englishman that died in Madras was an employee of the Company, and was
+a bachelor, without any relatives in India to mourn his loss. His
+colleagues gave him a grand funeral; but his death meant promotion for
+some of those selfsame colleagues, and his place in the Company's
+service was filled up by an official 'Order' on the following day. A
+big monument in the old-fashioned brick-and-mortar ugliness was
+piously built over his remains, and possibly there was genuine regret
+at a good fellow's loss; but water is less thick than blood, and there
+was no near one or dear one in India to take affectionate care of the
+big tomb; so it was left to itself to be taken care of by the people
+of Black Town. An unofficial description of Madras dated 1711 speaks
+of the 'stately Tombs' in the English cemetery, and an official Record
+of the same year speaks of the unhallowed uses to which the stately
+tombs were put. The Record says that "Excesses are Comitted on
+hallowed ground," and that the arcaded monuments were "turned into
+receptacles for Beggars and Buffaloes." We have seen in a previous
+chapter that the French, when they captured Madras, demolished the
+greater part of old Black Town together with its wall, and that the
+English, when they were back in Madras, completed the work of
+demolition. In the two-fold destruction, both French and English had
+sufficient respect for the dead to leave the tombs alone. But, now
+that Black Town was gone, the big tombs were the nearest buildings to
+the walls of White Town and Fort St. George; and when the French under
+Lally besieged Madras a few years later, they used the 'stately Tombs'
+as convenient cover for their attack on the city. The cemetery now was
+a receptacle not for beggars and buffaloes but for soldiers and guns.
+The siege lasted sixty-seven days, during which the cemetery was a
+vantage ground for successive French batteries. It is therefore not to
+be wondered at that when Count Lally had raised the unsuccessful
+siege, the authorities at Fort St. George decided that the 'stately
+tombs' were to disappear. The tombs themselves were accordingly
+destroyed, but the slabs that bore the inscriptions were laid in St.
+Mary's churchyard. At a later date some of them were taken up and were
+removed to the ramparts, for the extraordinary purpose of 'building
+platforms for the guns,'[2] but eventually they were restored to the
+churchyard and were relaid as we see them to-day.
+
+[Footnote 2: Rev. F. Penny's _Church in Madras_, vol. i, p. 366.]
+
+When the burying ground was dismantled, two of its monuments were
+allowed to remain. They are still to be seen on the Esplanade, outside
+the Law College, and the inscriptions can still be read; and the two
+tombs are interesting memorials of the past. One is a tall,
+steeple-like structure, which represents a woman's grief for her first
+husband, and for her child by her second. Her first husband was Joseph
+Hynmers, Senior Member of Council, who died in 1680, her second was
+Elihu Yale, Governor of Madras, whom she married six months after the
+death of her first. When her little son David died at the age of four,
+she had him buried in her first husband's grave. The other monument
+covers a vault which holds the remains of various members of the
+Powney family, a name which figured freely in the list of the
+Company's employees throughout the eighteenth century. When the
+cemetery was dismantled, members of the Powney family were still in
+the Madras service, and it was doubtless in respect for their feelings
+that the vault was not disturbed.
+
+It may be added that amongst the gravestones that pave the ground
+outside St. Mary's Church there are several that record the death of
+Roman Catholics. It is supposed that they were taken from the
+graveyard of the Roman Catholic church in White Town, which was
+demolished by the Company when they recovered Madras after the French
+occupation.
+
+Although the gravestones around St. Mary's Church bear the names of
+persons who were buried elsewhere, there are memorials within the
+church itself which mark the actual resting-place of mortal remains.
+Most of the monuments in St. Mary's are of historic interest, and
+it is fascinating indeed to stroll round the building and study
+
+     Storied urn or animated bust;
+
+but it is noteworthy that no inscription records the very first burial
+within the walls of the church. It is noteworthy too that the
+forgotten grave was not the grave of an obscure person, but of Lord
+Pigot, Governor of Madras; and, in view of the extraordinary
+circumstances of his death, the first burial is the most notable of
+all.
+
+George Pigot was sent out to Madras as a lad of eighteen, to take up
+the post of a writer in the Company's service. He worked so well that
+he rose rapidly, and at the early age of thirty-six he was appointed
+Governor of Madras. It was in the middle of his eight years'
+governorship that the French under Lally besieged Madras for
+sixty-five days; and Governor Pigot's untiring energy and skilful
+measures were prime factors in the successful defence. After the war
+he did great things for the development of Madras; and when he
+resigned office at the age of forty-five and went to England, the
+strenuous upholder of British honour in the East was rewarded with an
+Irish peerage. Well would it have been for Lord Pigot if he had
+settled down for good on his Irish estate! But twelve years later he
+accepted the offer of a second term of office as Governor of Madras.
+It is not infrequently the case that a man who has been eminently
+successful in office at one time of his career fails badly if after a
+long interval he accepts the same office again. Times have altered and
+methods that were successful before are now out of date. In Lord
+Pigot's case the conditions at the time of his second appointment were
+very different from those at the time of the first. On the first
+occasion he had risen to office with colleagues who had been his
+companions in the service. On the second occasion he was sent out to
+Madras as an elderly nobleman selected for the job, and as a stranger
+to his colleagues, who moreover were particularly given to factious
+disputes. It is not unlikely too that Lord Pigot himself had become
+touchy and overbearing in his declining years. Any way, he quarrelled
+with his Councillors almost immediately, and within six or seven
+months there had been some very angry scenes. He had been accustomed
+to being obeyed, and in his wrath at being obstinately resisted he
+went to the length of ordering the arrest not only of some of the
+leading members of Council but also of the Commander-in-Chief. The
+Councillors check-mated the Governor's order by arresting the
+Governor! It was a daring proceeding. He was arrested one night after
+dark, while driving along a suburban road on his imagined way to a
+friendly supper, and he was sent as a prisoner to a house at St.
+Thomas's Mount. He was in captivity for some nine months, while the
+triumphant Councillors were representing their case to the Directors
+in England; and then he died, in Government House, Madras, to which
+when he fell ill he had been transferred. It is on record that his
+remains were specially honoured with burial within St. Mary's
+Church--the first burial within the building--but no permanent
+memorial was raised to the unhappy Governor's memory; and the
+particular spot where he was buried is only a matter of conjecture.
+
+St. Mary's Church is less than 250 years old. Compared with hundreds
+of the grey-walled or ivy-covered churches in England, St. Mary's at
+Madras is prosaically new; but it is of exceeding interest
+nevertheless. Madras itself is a great and historic city, which owes
+its existence to British enterprise, with Indian co-operation, and St.
+Mary's Church, as the oldest British building therein, is the earliest
+milestone of progress. It is not a church that is best visited, like
+Melrose Abbey, 'in the pale moonlight,' but in the bright daylight,
+when the inscriptions on the tomb-stones without and on the monuments
+within can be clearly read.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX
+
+ROMAN CATHOLIC, MADRAS
+
+
+When the English first came to Madras, there were numerous Roman
+Catholic churches in the neighbouring Portuguese settlement of San
+Thome, but there were none within the tract of land that Mr. Francis
+Day acquired in the Company's behalf. When, therefore, at the
+Company's invitation, a number of Portuguese from San Thome, both
+pure-blooded and mixed, came and settled down in the Company's White
+Town, they were necessarily compelled to resort to the ministrations
+of Portuguese priests who belonged to the San Thome Mission; and
+within a year of the foundation of Fort St. George, the Portuguese
+missionaries built a church in the outskirts of the British
+settlement. This was the Church of the Assumption, which stands in
+what is still called 'Portuguese Street' in Georgetown, and is
+therefore a building of historic note. To the Company's
+representatives the ministrations of Portuguese priests to residents
+of Madras were objectionable; for the relations between Madras and San
+Thome were by no means friendly. It is true that when Mr. Francis Day
+was treating for the acquisition of a site, the Portuguese at Mylapore
+had furthered his efforts; but such a mark of apparent good will was
+no more than the outcome of Portuguese hostility to the Dutch; for
+they hoped that the English at Madras would be powerful allies with
+themselves against the aggressive Hollanders. As soon, however, as
+Madras had begun to be built and English trade to be actively pushed,
+jealousies arose and disagreements occurred; and the Company's
+representatives chafed at the idea that Portuguese priests should be
+the spiritual advisers of residents of Madras.
+
+In 1642, when Madras was in its third year, a certain Father Ephraim,
+a French Capuchin, chanced to set foot in Madras. Father Ephraim had
+been sent out from Paris as a missionary to Pegu; and he had travelled
+across India from Surat to Masulipatam, where, according to his
+instructions, he was to have secured a passage to Pegu in one of the
+Company's ships. His information was out of date; for the Agency had
+lately been transferred from Masulipatam to Madras, and the Company's
+ships for Pegu were sailing now from Madras instead of from
+Masulipatam; so Father Ephraim journeyed southward from Masulipatam to
+look for a vessel at the new settlement. At Madras no vessel was
+starting immediately, and Father Ephraim had to bide his time.
+Meanwhile he made himself useful by ministering to the Roman Catholics
+of the place. Official and other documents show that Father Ephraim
+was a very devout and a very able man. He was 'an earnest Christian,'
+'a polished linguist,' able to converse in English, Portuguese and
+Dutch, besides his own French, and he was conversant with Persian and
+Arabic. He had the charm of attractive friendliness, which is so
+common with Frenchmen, and he captivated all with whom he conversed.
+The Portuguese and other Roman Catholic inhabitants of Madras, to whom
+the Company's disapproval of the ministrations of Portuguese priests
+had been a frequent source of trouble, formally petitioned Father
+Ephraim to settle down in the city; and the Governor in Council,
+greatly preferring a French priest to a Portuguese and thoroughly
+approving of Father Ephraim personally, supported the petition with a
+formal order that, if the priest would stay, a site would be provided
+on which he might build a church for his flock. Father Ephraim himself
+was not unwilling to stay, but he was under orders for Pegu, and,
+furthermore, Madras was within the diocese of San Thome, and the
+Bishop was not likely to approve of a scheme in which the
+ministrations of his own priests would be set at naught in favour of a
+stranger. The Company, however, was influential. A reference was made
+to Father Ephraim's Capuchin superiors in Paris, and they approved of
+his remaining in Madras; another reference was made to Rome, asking
+that the British territory of Madras should be ecclesiastically
+separated from the Portuguese diocese of Mylapore, and the Pope issued
+a decree to that effect.
+
+A site for a church, as also for a priest's house, was provided in
+White Town, within the Fort St. George of to-day, and a small church,
+dedicated to St. Andrew, was built; and for a good many years it was
+the only church of any kind in the settlement.
+
+The Portuguese ecclesiastics of Mylapore were never reconciled to this
+ecclesiastical separation of Madras, and when Father Ephraim went by
+invitation to Mylapore to discuss certain ecclesiastical business, he
+was forthwith arrested, clapped in irons, and shipped off to Goa and
+lodged in the prison of the Inquisition. The Governor of Fort St.
+George took the matter in hand, but Father Ephraim was in prison more
+than two years before he was eventually released and sent back to
+Madras.
+
+Later, Father Ephraim rebuilt St. Andrew's Church on a larger plan,
+and the building was opened with ceremony; and Master Patrick Warner,
+the Company's Protestant Chaplain at Fort St. George, complained
+indignantly to the Directors in England that Governor Langhorn had
+celebrated the popish occasion with the 'firing of great guns' and
+with 'volleys of small shot by all the soldiers in garrison.'
+
+Father Ephraim had already built a church in old Black Town, which
+seems to have stood somewhere within what is now the site of the High
+Court. Another French Capuchin had meanwhile come to Madras to help
+him in his ministrations to his ever-increasing flock; so the church
+in Black Town had its regular pastor.
+
+After more than fifty years of self-sacrificing work in Madras, Father
+Ephraim died of old age, sincerely esteemed by all who knew him.
+
+Some years after his death St. Andrew's was again rebuilt, and it was
+now a large edifice, with a high bell-tower, and a small churchyard
+around. In the suburban district of Muthialpet there was also a
+'Portuguese Burying Place,' which is now the 'compound' of the Roman
+Catholic Cathedral and its associated buildings in Armenian Street;
+and a small church stood within this enclosure. Adjoining the
+Portuguese Burying Place was the 'Armenian Burying Place,' which is
+now the enclosure of the Armenian church; and it was the Armenian
+Burying Place that gave the name to the street.
+
+When Madras was captured by the French, there were people who said
+that the French priests in Madras had given information to their
+countrymen; and three years later, when Madras was restored to the
+Company, the Governor in Council confiscated St. Andrew's church. A
+reference to the Directors in England as to what they were to do with
+the confiscated building brought back the very decisive reply that
+they were "immediately on the receipt of this, without fail to
+demolish the Portuguese Church in the White Town at Madras, and not
+suffer it to stand." The church was demolished accordingly, as also a
+Roman Catholic chapel in Vepery. The church in old Black Town had
+already been demolished by the French when they destroyed the greater
+part of old Black Town itself; and, in accordance with another edict
+of the Directors in England, by which the Company's representatives in
+Madras were "absolutely forbid suffering any Romish Church within the
+bounds, or even to suffer the public profession of the Romish
+religion," Roman Catholicism was altogether scouted in Madras.
+
+Twenty-five years later, the English troops, after defeating the
+French in various engagements, captured Pondicherry and demolished its
+fortifications; and the peace of Paris left the French in India
+powerless. With the danger of French aggression removed for good, the
+Company were less intolerant of the religion which Frenchmen
+professed; and a few years later they paid the Capuchin priests some
+Rs. 50,000 as compensation for the destruction of the church in White
+Town and of the chapel in Vepery.
+
+With funds thus in their hands, the Capuchin fathers set about
+building a new church in the 'Burying Place.' This new church, which
+they built in 1775, was the edifice which is now the Roman Catholic
+Cathedral in Armenian Street. On the gate-posts appears the date 1642,
+but this was the year in which the Company made a grant of the land
+for a Roman Catholic Cemetery and in which Father Ephraim arrived and
+the Madras Mission began, and is not the date of the building of the
+present church or of its predecessor. The Capuchin missionaries
+continued in charge of Roman Catholic affairs in Madras until 1832, in
+which year they were put under episcopal jurisdiction.
+
+Reference has been made in this chapter and elsewhere to the churches
+that were already in existence in Mylapore when the English first
+settled in Madras. According to local tradition, the Apostle St.
+Thomas made his way to the East, and, after preaching in various parts
+of India, settled down in the ancient Hindu town of Mylapore, where he
+made numerous converts. The Hindu priests, indignant at the loss of so
+many of their clients, sought the missionary's life. The Apostle,
+according to the tradition, lived in a small cave on a small hill--the
+'Little Mount'--fed by birds and drinking the water of a spring that
+bubbled up miraculously within the cave. Driven from the cave, he
+fled to another hill, a mile or so away--'St. Thomas's Mount'--where
+he was killed with a lance. The dead body was buried at Mylapore. Such
+is the story; and in the present-day church on the Little Mount the
+visitor is shown a cave which is said to have been the Apostle's
+hiding-place; and within the nave of the cathedral at Mylapore he is
+shown a hole in the ground--now lined with marble--in which the
+Martyr's remains are said to have been buried.
+
+When the Portuguese came to Mylapore in the early part of the
+sixteenth century, they built a church upon the ruins of an ancient
+church that had enclosed the tomb; and the new church became
+eventually the Cathedral of San Thome. The sixteenth century building
+was pulled down in 1893, and the present Cathedral--a handsome Gothic
+structure--was built. Mylapore is now a suburb of Madras, and is
+within British dominion; but the bishopric, which was originally
+supported by the King of Portugal, who had the right of nominating the
+bishop, is still supported by the Portuguese Government.
+
+Mylapore has a history of its own that is outside the scope of the
+'Story of Madras;' but a few words about the glories of a city that is
+now a suburb of Madras will not be out of place.
+
+Mylapore and Madras, standing side by side, are a conjunction of the
+old and the young. Mylapore, or Meliapore, the 'Peacock City' of the
+ancient Hindu world, has existed for twenty centuries, and perhaps a
+great many more; Madras has existed less than three. It was at
+Mylapore that, according to tradition, the body of the martyred
+Apostle St. Thomas was buried; Mylapore was the birth-place of
+Tiruvalluvar, an old and illustrious Tamil author who belonged to the
+down-trodden class, and of Peyalvar, an eminent Vaishnavite saint and
+writer; it was here that a company of Saivaite saints, Appar and his
+fellows, assembled together and wrote their well-known hymns; and it
+was here also that Mastan, a renowned Mohammedan scholar, lived and
+wrote and died.
+
+Of the ancient glories of Mylapore no vestige remains; but several of
+the churches of the Mylapore diocese belong to the sixteenth century,
+including the celebrated 'Luz' Church, the Church of the Madre-de-Deus
+at San Thome and the little Church of Our Lady of Refuge between
+Mylapore and Saidapet, besides the churches at the Little Mount and
+St. Thomas's Mount, of which the latter is a sixteenth-century
+development of an old chapel that existed there before the coming of
+the Portuguese.
+
+It is of interest to note that there are those who say that a Mylapore
+church gave its name to the city of Madras. They say--not, I believe,
+without evidence--that the rural village of Madraspatam, where Mr.
+Francis Day selected a site for the Company's settlement, had been
+colonized by fisherfolk from the parish of the Madre-de-Deus
+Church--the Church of the Mother of God--and that the emigrant
+fisherfolk called their village by the name of their parish, and that
+the name was eventually corrupted into 'Madras.' The origin of the
+name 'Madras' is uncertain; and the explanation is at any rate
+interesting and not unlikely to be true.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X
+
+CHEPAUK PALACE
+
+
+Among the interesting buildings in Madras must be included Chepauk
+Palace, which was built about a century and a half ago as a residence
+for the Nawab of the Carnatic, and which is now the office of the
+Board of Revenue. The high wall that enclosed the spacious Saracenic
+structure in its palace days has been pulled down, and the public can
+now gaze at a building that was once carefully screened from the
+public eye, and can enter at will without having to satisfy the
+scrutiny of armed men at the gate. A change indeed--from the sleepy
+residence of a Muhammadan ruler, with his harem and his idle crowd of
+retainers, to bustling offices where a multitude of officials and
+clerks are working out the cash accounts of the Government of Madras!
+
+The 'Carnatic' was a dominion that extended over the territory that is
+now included in the Collectorates of Nellore, North Arcot, South
+Arcot, Trichinopoly, and Tinnevelly. The town of Arcot was the capital
+of the dominion, and the Nawab of the Carnatic was sometimes spoken of
+as the Nawab of Arcot. Chepauk Palace belongs to the history of the
+Carnatic, and a few historical notes will make things clear.
+
+In our first chapter we intimated that Madras, when Mr. Francis Day
+acquired it, was within the domain of the disappearing Hindu Empire of
+Vijianagar, of which the living representative at the time was the
+Raja of Chandragiri, from whom Mr. Francis Day accordingly obtained a
+deed of possession. Seven years afterwards, the Raja of Chandragiri
+was a refugee in Mysore, driven from his throne by the Muhammadan
+Sultan of Golconda, who assumed the sovereignty of Hyderabad and the
+Carnatic. The Sultan of Golconda thus became the recognized overlord
+of Madras; and the Company were careful to secure from their new
+sovereign a confirmation of their possession. But the power of the
+Sultan was destined to fall in its turn; for Aurangzeb, the Moghul
+Emperor at Delhi, being desirous of uniting all India under Moghul
+rule, waged war against the Sultan of Golconda--who, as a Shiah
+Mohammedan, was a heretic in Aurangzeb's eyes--and defeated him.
+Aurangzeb put Hyderabad under a Nizam whom he named 'Viceroy of the
+Deccan' and the Carnatic under a Nawab who was to be subordinate to
+the Viceroy. But the Emperor who succeeded Aurangzeb had none of their
+predecessors' greatness; and soon after Aurangzeb's death the Nizam of
+Hyderabad assumed independence, with the Nawab of the Carnatic as his
+vassal.
+
+In 1749 there was a quarrel for the Nawabship. The French at
+Pondicherry supported one claimant, and the English at Madras
+supported the other. This was the gallant Clive's opportunity.
+Exchanging the clerk's pen for the officer's sword, the youthful
+'writer' marched with a small force to Arcot and captured it on behalf
+of the Company's nominee, and then sustained most heroically a lengthy
+siege. Clive triumphed; and Mohammed Ali, otherwise known as Nawab
+Walajah, became undisputed Nawab of the Carnatic. Later, with British
+support, the Nawab renounced his allegiance to Hyderabad, and reigned
+as an independent prince.
+
+In his capital at Arcot, Nawab Walajah, who had many factionary
+enemies, would assuredly have found himself in a dangerous centre of
+intrigue; but he was wise in his generation; for as soon as he had
+gained his independence he sought and obtained from the Governor of
+Madras permission to build a palace for himself within the protective
+walls of Fort St. George. Arrangements for the work were made; and one
+of the streets of the Fort--the street which still bears the name of
+'Palace Street'--received its name because it was the street in which
+the Nawab's residence was to be built. Eventually, however, the scheme
+was set aside; and in the following year the Nawab acquired private
+property in Chepauk, and engaged an English architect to build him a
+house. Chepauk Palace thus came into existence. The grounds of the
+Palace, which the Nawab surrounded with a wall, formed an immense
+enclosure, which included a large part of the grounds of Government
+House of to-day and a great deal of adjoining land.
+
+Chepauk Palace was the scene of some grand doings in its time; and
+soon after it was built the Nawab entertained the Governor of Madras
+and his Councillors, one of whom was Mr. Warren Hastings, at 'an
+elegant breakfast;' and, when the feast was over, he divided some Rs.
+30,000 among his guests. The Governor got Rs. 7,000, and, on a sliding
+scale, the Secretaries, who were last on the list, got Rs. 1,000 each.
+
+The relations, however, between Nawab Walajah and a later Governor of
+Madras were not so cordial. In 1780 Haidar Ali with an immense army
+suddenly invaded the Carnatic, and annihilated a British force that
+was sent to oppose him; and Tipu, his son and successor, continued the
+campaign. The Company's treasury at Madras was straitened with the
+expenses of the war, and the Nawab, whose capital was in the hands of
+the enemy, was unable to contribute thereto; but when Tipu was
+eventually defeated, the Nawab was induced to assign the control of
+the revenues of the Carnatic to the Company. A few months later the
+Nawab felt that he had made an unwise bargain, and he declared his
+renunciation of the agreement; but Baron Macartney, the newly
+appointed Governor of Madras, kept him strictly to his word. The Nawab
+wrote various official letters, complaining in one that Lord Macartney
+had 'premeditatedly' offered him 'Insults and Indignity,' and in
+another that he had shown him 'every mark of Insult and Contempt.' The
+Directors in London, expressly declaring their desire to content the
+influential Nawab, decided in his favour; whereupon Lord Macartney,
+who in the opinion of his friends had been set at naught for the sake
+of the wealthy potentate, indignantly resigned the Governorship of
+Madras, and went home. Friendly relations between the Nawab and the
+Madras Government were thereupon resumed, and when Nawab Walajah died,
+at the age of seventy-eight, he was eulogised in an official note in
+the _Fort St. George Gazette_.
+
+The career of his son and successor, Umdat-ul-Umara, was less
+auspicious. Although his accession was the occasion of friendly
+letters between himself and the Government of Madras, the Nawab's
+rejection of the Governor's suggestion that the financial arrangements
+between himself and the Company should be made more favourable to the
+Company irritated the Governor, and the Governor's efforts to induce
+the Nawab to change his mind irritated the Nawab. Meanwhile Tipu
+Sultan was preparing for another war with the Company, and when, after
+a brief campaign, Tipu was killed while fighting bravely in defence of
+his capital, it was declared that an examination of Tipu's
+correspondence showed that the Nawab of Arcot had been guilty of
+treasonable communications with Mysore. It was accordingly resolved
+that the Company should assume control of the Carnatic; but, as the
+Nawab was seriously ill, nothing was done until his death, when
+British troops were sent to occupy Chepauk Palace.
+
+The Nawab's son refused to recognize the Company's right to control
+his father's dominions, whereupon the Company set him aside, and put
+his cousin on the throne in his stead. The Company were now the actual
+rulers of the Carnatic, and the future Nawabs were styled 'Titular
+Nawabs.' In 1855 the third of the Titular Nawabs died without any son
+to succeed him. Lord Dalhousie was Governor-General of India at the
+time, and it was Lord Dalhousie's declared policy that if the ruler of
+any native state died without issue, his dominions should formally
+lapse to the Company. On this principle the Carnatic now became a
+formal part of the British dominions, and the dynasty of the Nawabs
+came to an end; Chepauk Palace, which was the personal property of the
+Nawabs, was acquired by the Company's Government for a price, and was
+eventually turned into Government offices.
+
+The many thousands of Mohammedans, however, who dwelt in the crowded
+streets and lanes of Chepauk, and who had looked upon the Nawab as
+their religious chief, would have been afflicted at the cessation of
+the Carnatic line; and after the Indian Mutiny the Government of
+India, respecting Mohammedan sentiment, recognized the succession of
+the nearest relative of the late Nawab and obtained for him from the
+King of England the hereditary title of Amir-i-Arcot, or 'Prince of
+Arcot'--an honorary title but higher than that of Nawab. A sum of Rs.
+1,50,000 per annum--(not an excessive sum in relation to the revenues
+of the Carnatic, which are now collected by the Madras Government)--is
+expended annually in pensions to the Prince and to certain of his
+relatives; and he lives in a house called the 'Amir Mahal' (the Amir's
+Palace), which was given to him by the Government. The Amir Mahal
+stands in spacious grounds in Royapettah. At the principal entrance,
+the gate-house is a tall and imposing edifice in red brick. At the
+gateway, sentries, armed with old-fashioned rifles, stand--or
+sometimes sit--on guard; and the Prince's Band is often to be heard
+practising oriental music in the room up above.
+
+Regarded in relation to its history, Chepauk is something more than
+'one of the Government buildings on the Marina.' Let us remember that,
+when it was enclosed within the walls that are now no more, it was the
+home of Mohammedan potentates--sometimes a scene of gorgeous
+festivity--sometimes a scene of desperate intrigue. In imagination we
+may people the front garden with the gaily-uniformed Body-Guard of the
+Carnatic sovereign, mounted on gaily-bridled steeds; and we may see
+the Nawab himself coming magnificently down the front steps and
+climbing into the silver howdah that is strapped on the back of a
+kneeling elephant. A blast of oriental music, and the procession goes
+on its way; and we may wonder at which of the tiled windows on the
+upper floor the bright eyes of the Lalla Rookhs and the Nurmahals of
+Chepauk are slily peeping at the spectacle. The vision vanishes. The
+procession now is a procession of clerks to their homes when their
+day's work is over; and the music is a ragtime selection by the Band
+of the Madras Guards on the Marina, close by, with ayahs and children
+around. We are in the twentieth century; but for a moment we have
+lived in the past.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI
+
+GOVERNMENT HOUSE
+
+
+In the early days of Madras all the employees of the Company, from the
+Governor down to the most junior apprentice, lived in common. Their
+bedrooms were in one and the same house, and they had their meals at
+one and the same table. The house stood in the middle of the Fort, and
+was the 'Factory'--a word which, as already explained, was used in
+former times to mean a mercantile office, or, as Annandale in his
+dictionary defines it, 'an establishment where factors in foreign
+countries reside to transact business for their employers;' and the
+Factory in Fort St. George was both an office and a home.
+
+The community life, with the common table, was maintained for many
+years, but in course of time, when the number of the employees had
+greatly increased and some of the senior officials had wives and
+children, one man and another were allowed to live in separate
+quarters, within the precincts of the Fort; and eventually the common
+table, like King Arthur's, was dissolved. Even then, however, and
+right on until the beginning of the nineteenth century, the junior
+employees had a common mess, and were under something like disciplined
+control.
+
+Like all the other buildings inside the Fort and within the walls of
+White Town, the Factory--which was sometimes spoken of as 'The
+Governor's House'--was without a garden; and it was only to be
+expected that the resident employees, most of whom were young men,
+should wish for a recreation ground to which they could resort in
+their leisure hours. Some of the wealthy private residents of White
+Town had shown what could be done; for they had acquired patches of
+land outside the walls, which they had enclosed with hedges and
+cultivated as gardens, with a house in the middle of each garden, in
+which, as either a permanent or an occasional residence, the owner and
+his family might hope to find relief from the stuffiness of the
+streets of the rapidly developing city. In the 'Records' any such
+villa is spoken of as a 'garden-house' and even now in Madras the term
+'garden-house' is occasionally used in Indo-English as signifying a
+house that stands within its own 'compound,' as distinct from houses
+that open directly into the street.
+
+The Company's agents in Madras realized the desirability of laying out
+a garden for the recreative benefit of the Company's employees.
+Outside the walls, therefore, of White Town they hedged off some eight
+acres of land in the locality in which the Law College now stands, and
+they cultivated it as a 'Company's Garden;' and within it they built a
+small pavilion. We may imagine that in the cool of the evening it was
+common for a goodly number of the Company's mercantile employees to
+leave their apartments in the Fort and stroll beyond the walls the
+short distance to the 'Garden,' which in those early days was
+refreshingly near the seashore. In our mind's eye we can blot the Law
+College out of the landscape and can see a party of youthful merchants
+engaged as energetically as was suitable to the heat of Madras in the
+then fashionable game of bowls--or, less energetically but much more
+excitedly, gathered in a ring round two cocks that are tearing each
+other to pieces--a particularly popular form of 'Sport' in old Madras;
+and, although the Directors in London appropriately forbade to their
+employees the use of cards or the dice-box, we can espy a
+tense-visaged quartet within the shadow of the pavilion with a 'pool'
+of 'fanams' (coins worth about 2-1/2_d_.) on the table, or possibly,
+rupees or pagodas, absorbed in a round of ombre or one of the other
+card games that were in fashion. The sun has set, and the shadows are
+lengthening. A bugle sounds from the Fort; and the employees stroll
+back to supper, which, according to an old account, invariably
+consisted of 'milk, salt fish, and rice,' but which will be privately
+supplemented afterwards with potations of arrack-punch by those who
+can afford nothing better and with draughts of sack or canary by those
+who can.
+
+In the course of a few years the 'Company's Garden' was spoiled. Black
+Town had been springing up close by; and, when a wall was built round
+old Black Town, the Company's Garden was unpleasantly included
+therein, and the Garden was now in the north-west corner of the Indian
+city. Moreover, a part of the Garden had begun to be utilized as a
+European burial-ground, and huge funeral monstrosities of the bygone
+style had begun to dominate the enclosure.
+
+The Company's agents in Madras felt that a new recreation ground was a
+necessity; and they were agreed that there ought to be not merely a
+'Company's Garden,' but a 'Company's Garden-House.' They wrote to the
+Directors saying that there were occasions on which the Company in
+Madras had to entertain 'the King (Golconda) and persons of quality,'
+and that they had no building that was suitable for any such
+ceremonial proceedings. True there was the Council Chamber in the
+Fort, but the Council Chamber was the place where the Company's
+mercantile transactions were discussed; and the Chamber, as well as
+all the other buildings in the Fort, was closely identified with the
+'Factory;' and the Company's chief officials in Madras declared--not,
+we may suppose, without regard for their own convenience--that a
+stately 'Garden House,' unassociated with ledgers and bills of sale,
+ought to be built, in due accord with the stateliness of the Company
+itself. Their application for permission to put the work in hand was
+met by the Directors in London with the typically frugal reply that
+the work might be done but care was to be taken that the Company
+should be put to 'no great charge.' Possibly the representatives in
+Madras were able to provide additional supplies on the spot, but,
+however that may have been, the house was 'handsomely built,' yet
+'with little expense to the Company.' The new garden seems to have
+comprised the area within which the Medical College and the General
+Hospital are now situated. The grounds, which stretched down, even as
+now, to the bank of the river, were well laid out, and the Company's
+first 'Garden House' was a fine possession.
+
+In 1686 Master William Gyfford, Governor of Fort St. George, had a
+fancy for using the Garden House as a private residence for himself.
+It is not to be wondered at that he did so; for Master Gyfford, after
+twenty-seven years' residence in Madras and more than twenty-seven
+years in the East, was in poor health, and lately he had been taken
+ill with a 'a violent fitt of the Stone and Wind Collick.' The
+gardenless 'Factory' in the Fort was a gloomy apology for a
+'Governor's House,' and the crowd of employees that were accommodated
+there must have been a serious infliction upon the invalid Governor;
+and he found the Garden House an agreeable retreat. In his new
+quarters he got better of his illness; and he dwelt there a
+considerable time, till in the following year he left Madras for
+England for good. The story is interesting, for it records the first
+occasion on which a Governor of Madras lived in a separate house
+outside the Fort.
+
+On various occasions the Company's 'Garden House,' with its extensive
+grounds, was used for public purposes, justifying the plea for its
+construction. For example, when the Company received the news of the
+accession of King James II, the event was celebrated with brilliant
+proceedings at the Garden House. Similarly, at the accession of Queen
+Anne 'all Europeans of fashion in the City' were invited to the Garden
+House, where they 'drank the Queen's Health, and Prosperity to old
+England.' In an earlier chapter we have related how a young Nawab of
+Arcot who had just succeeded to his murdered father's throne was
+entertained at the Garden House with great doings. Governor Pitt made
+great developments in the Gardens, and was another Governor who liked
+the Garden House as a residence. An Englishman who was living in
+Madras in 1704, when Pitt was Governor, has left an interesting
+account of the Garden House as he saw it:--
+
+     'The Governor, during the hot Winds, retires to the
+     Company's new Garden for refreshment, which he has made a
+     very delightful Place of a barren one. Its costly Gates,
+     lovely Bowling-Green, spacious Walks, Teal-pond, and
+     Curiosities preserved in several Divisions are worthy to be
+     Admired. Lemons and Grapes grow there, but five Shillings
+     worth of Water and attendance will scarcely mature one of
+     them.'
+
+Before long it had come to be an unwritten regulation that Governors
+at Fort St. George might reside at their choice either in the Fort or
+at the Garden House. There came a time, however, when the Governor had
+of necessity to betake himself to the Fort; it was the time when the
+French were besieging Madras. During the siege the enemy used the
+Garden House as a vantage-ground for their big guns; and afterwards,
+when they had captured Fort St. George and were in occupation of the
+city, they pulled the Garden House down, lest the English, trying
+perhaps to recapture the Fort, should be able to use it as a
+vantage-ground in their turn.
+
+Thus, when Madras was restored to the English, the Garden House had
+disappeared, and the only house for Governor Saunders was the original
+residence in the middle of the Fort. Governor Saunders, however, was
+not content with the walled-in accommodation that the Fort provided
+and was unwilling to forgo the residential privileges that his
+predecessors had enjoyed; so a private 'garden-house' in Chepauk was
+rented in his behalf. It belonged to a Mrs. Madeiros, a rich
+Portuguese widow, whose husband, lately deceased, had been a leading
+merchant in White Town.
+
+Mrs. Madeiros's house was 'Government House, Madras,' of the present
+day. The house, however, has been enlarged and the grounds have been
+extended since Governor Saunders lived there as a tenant.
+
+[Illustration: GOVERNMENT HOUSE, MADRAS]
+
+Governor Saunders liked his residence, and, before he had been there a
+year, the Company acquired it from the widow, who had no use for it
+now that her husband was dead; and the Governor was careful to leave
+on record the reason of the acquisition:--
+
+     'It having been always usual for the Company to allow the
+     President a house in the Country to retire to, and Mrs.
+     Medeiros being willing to dispose of her House, situated in
+     the Road to St. Thome, for three thousand five hundred
+     pagodas (say Rs 12,250), Agreed That it be purchased
+     accordingly, The Company's Garden-house having been
+     demolish'd by the French when they were in Possession of
+     this Place, and Mrs. Medeiros's being convenient for that
+     Purpose, and on a Survey esteem'd worth much more than the
+     Sum 'tis offer'd at.'
+
+The Company always enjoyed a good bargain, and Governor Saunders was
+justified in thinking that he had made a very good one in respect of
+the house; for, a few years later, the house, with certain extensions
+and improvements, was written down in the Company's books at a
+valuation of nearly four times the price that was paid for it.
+
+We have brought our story down to the acquisition of Government House,
+but it remains to relate some of the historic events in which
+Government House has figured since it was acquired.
+
+During the second siege of Madras by the French, under Lally, the
+besiegers occupied the Garden House, and during their occupation they
+did a great deal of wanton damage before they ceased their vain
+endeavours. Two years later, however, the English had the enjoyment of
+a delicate revenge. They captured Pondicherry and brought Lally to
+Madras, where they imprisoned him in the Garden House till a vessel
+was available to take him to England. The damage that he had done had
+not yet been repaired; and a contemporary Record says that 'Mr. Lally
+was lodged in those apartments of the Garden House which had escaped
+his fury at the Siege of Madras,' and that in respect of his table he
+was allowed to give his own orders 'without limitation of expence,'
+with the result that he 'seemed to have intended Revenge by
+Profusion.'
+
+A few years later Tipu, Sultan of Mysore, at the head of a body of
+horsemen, made a sudden raid on Madras; and the troopers scampered
+about the well-laid-out grounds of the Garden House, looting the
+villages on either side. According to accounts, Governor Bourchier and
+his Councillors were there when the raiders came, and they would
+assuredly have been caught had they not managed to make their escape
+in a boat that was conveniently tied up on the bank of the Cooum
+river.
+
+More than one Governor of Fort St. George has died at Government
+House, and it was there that Governor Pigot died in extraordinary
+circumstances. The tale has been told in a previous chapter, that Lord
+Pigot was arrested by his Councillors, with whom he had quarrelled,
+and that he died in confinement in the Garden House.
+
+The reader has yet to be told how the Garden House was finally
+transformed into the Government House that we see to-day.
+
+In 1798 Lord Clive, son of the great Robert Clive, was sent out to
+India as Governor of Madras. Within the first six months of his
+arrival there was the excitement of a war with Mysore, in which the
+terrible Tipu Sultan was killed during the assault on his capital.
+During the tranquil remainder of his five years in India, Lord Clive
+turned his attention to domestic reforms, and amongst them he resolved
+that the Garden House should be improved. In an official minute he
+wrote:--
+
+     'The garden house, at present occupied by Myself, is so
+     insufficient either for the private accommodation of my
+     family and Staff, or for the convenience of the public
+     occasions inseparable from my situation, that it is my
+     intention to make such an addition to it as may be
+     calculated to answer both purposes.'
+
+Lord Clive thereupon, in 1801, developed Government House at a cost of
+more than Rs. 3 lakhs; and two years later he built the beautiful
+Banqueting Hall, at a cost of Rs. 2 1/2 lakhs. The recent fall of
+Tipu's capital of Seringapatam was an event that the Banqueting Hall
+could appropriately commemorate; and Lord Clive, with pious respect
+for his dead father's memory, coupled Plassey with Seringapatam, and
+ordered that the fine figure-work on the facade of the hall should be
+a commemoration of both victories. In England the Directors of the
+Company complained of what they called 'such wasteful extravagance;'
+but the developments were a real want, and it is a matter of
+present-day satisfaction that the Madras Government have no need to be
+acquiring a site now and to be building a new Government House in
+these expensive days. Lord Clive was certainly no miser with the
+Company's money, for he built also a second Government House--a
+'country residence' at Guindy. The 'country residence' was developed
+and improved some forty years later by Lord Elphinstone, who was
+Governor of Madras in the middle of last century. It is a truly
+beautiful house, standing in beautiful grounds; and it has lately been
+a proposition that the house at Guindy should be the Governor's only
+residence, and that Government House, Madras, should be used for
+Government offices.
+
+'Government House, Madras!' To most people it is suggestive of dinner
+parties within and garden parties without; and the Banqueting Hall is
+suggestive of dances and levees and meetings for good causes. But to
+people who can look at Government House, Madras, with an historic
+glance it rouses other memories. Within its original walls more than
+two centuries ago a belaced Senhor kept Portuguese state. It was here
+that Frenchmen were encamped while their guns were fruitlessly
+hammering at the walls of Fort St. George. It was here that Lally
+lived sumptuously in prison, till he was sent to Europe--eventually to
+be executed in Paris for having failed to capture Madras. It was
+within these grounds that Tipu's horsemen were scampering about on a
+September morning, looking for houses where money or jewels could be
+commandeered. It was here that an ennobled Governor of Madras lived in
+gilded captivity till death set him free.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII
+
+MADRAS AND THE SEA
+
+
+Madras is now a seaport of considerable repute; but it is interesting
+to recall the fact that less than forty years ago the city was without
+a harbour, and that ships which came there had to anchor out at sea.
+In the days of the Company, passengers and cargo had to be landed on
+the beach in boats; and, as the waves that chase one another to the
+shores of Madras are nearly always giant billows crested with foaming
+surf, the passage between ship and shore was not without its
+discomforts and also its risks.
+
+Warren Hastings, when he was senior member of the Madras Council and
+was in charge of Public Works, wrote it down that he thought it
+'possible to carry out a causeway or pier into the sea beyond the
+Surf, to which boats might come and land their goods or passengers,
+without being exposed to the Surf.' At various times different
+engineers devised plans for such a pier as Warren Hastings proposed,
+but nothing was actually done, and it was not until the sixties of
+last century that a pier was actually made. It was not a stone
+causeway such as Hastings seems to have had in his mind, but was a
+lighter and likelier structure of wood and iron; and it did excellent
+work, making it easy for passengers and cargo to be landed in fair
+weather. Madras was still, however, without a harbour; but before many
+years a harbour was taken in hand, and in the summer of 1881 its two
+arms, enclosing the small pier, were practically finished. There was
+much rejoicing; but the congratulations were short-lived, for on a
+certain night during the winter of the same year there was a cyclone
+off Madras, and the next morning the citizens saw that their harbour
+had been wrecked by the devastating waves. It was fifteen years before
+the harbour had been restored, upon an improved plan; and even then it
+was a poor apology for a haven; for when a storm was expected, ships
+were warned to put out to sea, as the cyclone had shown that a stormy
+sea was less dangerous than the storm-beaten harbour. Within recent
+years, however, the harbour has been so much altered and strengthened
+and developed that it is regarded as a splendid piece of engineering,
+and shipping business in Madras has benefited greatly. Large vessels
+can now lie up against wharves, to discharge or to load their cargo,
+and passengers can embark and disembark in comfort, and the increase
+in trade has been great. Much watchfulness, however, is still very
+necessary; for, on an exciting night a few years ago, part of the
+extended harbour-wall was washed away by a storm.
+
+Yes, Madras is an important seaport; yet it is a fact that, except to
+men whose business is with the sea, Madras is much less like a seaside
+town than it was in its earlier years, and many of the people who live
+there seldom see the briny ocean--even though they may sometimes be
+reminded of its nearness when in the stillness of the night they hear
+
+     'The league-long breakers thundering on the shore.'
+
+For one thing, the greater part of Madras is not so near the sea as it
+was in former times; for the southern wall of the harbour has acted as
+a breakwater, causing the sea to recede a very long way from the
+original shore; and houses in the thoroughfare that is still called
+'Beach Road' are now a very long way from the beach, and it is only
+from upper stories that the sea in the distance is visible. Southward,
+moreover, the magnificent road that is still called the 'Marina' is
+fast losing its right to the name; for it is only across a broad
+stretch of ever-extending dry sand that the dark blue ribbon of
+tropical sea is beheld therefrom.
+
+In earlier days Madras was verily a city of the sea. Both White Town
+and Black Town lay directly along the sea-beach, and the coming and
+going of the Company's ships were momentous events. Surf-boats used to
+land on the beach outside the 'Sea-Gate' of the wave-splashed Fort,
+laden with cargo from the Company's ships lying out in the roads; and
+the bales were carried through the gateway into the Company's
+warehouses within the Fort-walls. The Sea-Gate is still to be seen,
+and it still looks towards the sea; but the sea is far away, and the
+Sea-Gate is now one of the least used of the entrances to the Fort.
+
+[Illustration: THE SEA GATE.
+
+The sea has now receded afar.]
+
+In former times the Company had a considerable fleet of first-class
+sailing-ships, and, owing to the frequency of wars with either the
+French or the Dutch, the Company obtained royal permission to equip
+their ships as men-of-war armed with serviceable guns, which could be
+turned against an enemy if occasion required. The voyage from England
+to India was by way of the Cape of Good Hope, and it lasted at least
+three or four months, and often very much more. For example, when
+Robert Clive came out to India for the first time, the vessel was so
+buffeted by contrary winds that the commander thought it best to run
+across the Atlantic and let her lie up so long in a South American
+port that Clive learned to speak Spanish with considerable fluency;
+and it was not till nearly a year after leaving England that the young
+writer arrived at Madras.
+
+Furthermore, besides the various adventures that were natural to a
+sea-voyage, there was the contingency of a sea-fight, and the
+possibility of being taken to Pondicherry or Batavia as a prisoner of
+war instead of being landed at Madras as a paid employee of the
+'Honourable Company.'
+
+[Illustration: THE COMPANY'S FLAG.]
+
+It was usual for several ships to sail together, for mutual
+protection; and passengers had reason to congratulate themselves when
+they were eventually landed safe and sound at Madras. It can be
+readily imagined that the sight of a vessel of the Company approaching
+in the distance caused a stir of excitement amongst the residents of
+Fort St. George. There were no telegraphs from other ports to give
+previous notice of a vessel's prospective arrival; and the fact that a
+ship was at hand was unknown until her flag[3] or her particular rig
+was discerned in the distance, or until one of her guns gave notice of
+her approach. The comparative regularity, however, of the winds in
+Eastern seas caused 'seasons' in which vessels might be expected; and
+when a season arrived, the look-out who happened to be on duty on
+the Fort flagstaff must have been particularly alert. Ay, and there
+must have been much hurrying to and fro in the streets of White Town
+when the signal had been given and the news had spread that the sails
+of a Company's ship had been sighted, and while the vessel, perhaps
+with several consorts, came nearer and nearer, till at last the
+anchors were dropped and salutes were exchanged between ship and
+shore.
+
+[Footnote 3: 'The flag displayed by the Company's ships bore seven
+horizontal red stripes on a white ground, with a St. George's Cross in
+the inner top corner.'--_Love_.]
+
+There was good cause for excitement. The ship brought letters from
+home--perhaps after several months of no news at all. There were the
+private letters that told the news about near ones and dear ones;
+there were the official letters that decreed appointments in the
+Company's service and promotions and penalties, and dealt with the
+Company's business; and there were the 'news-letters'--the
+old-fashioned predecessors of the modern newspaper, which were written
+by paid correspondents, whose duty it was to give their clients news
+of London and of England and of Europe. The news was often astounding,
+and was sometimes extraordinarily behind-time. For example, the
+Company's employees in India were still professing loyalty to the Most
+High and Mighty King James II nearly a twelvemonth after that monarch
+had fled to France and had been succeeded by William and Mary; and the
+employees at Madras were surprised indeed when a ship arrived one day
+from England with the belated news.
+
+The salutes have been fired, and the vessel has been surrounded by a
+flotilla of surf-boats and catamarans. The commander and the
+passengers are being rowed ashore, and the Governor with his
+Councillors, dressed all of them in their smartest official attire,
+are waiting on the beach outside the Sea-Gate of the Fort to bid them
+a hearty welcome. Amongst the passengers there are probably some
+youths who have been posted to Madras either as apprenticed 'writers'
+or as military Cadets; and perhaps there is a senior employee who is
+returning to India after the rare event of a holiday in England.
+Possibly too there are some ladies, either wives of employees who have
+been willing to accompany or to follow their husbands to the
+mysterious East--or, as was not infrequently the case, young ladies
+who, with the consent of the Directors, have been shipped out to India
+by their parents or guardians or on their own account, in the hope
+that companionable bachelor employees, pining in their loneliness,
+will jump at the chance of matrimony.
+
+[Illustration: SURF-BOAT]
+
+The surf-boat comes nearer and nearer; and when it gets among the
+breakers there are feminine screams of terror. The alarm is not
+without cause; for at one moment the boat is being balanced on the top
+of a heaving wave, and the next it is almost lost to sight in a
+foaming hollow. The excitement in the tossing boat is tremendous; but
+it is brief; for there are only three or four breakers to be
+negotiated, and in less than a minute a curling wave has caught the
+boat in its clutch and hurls it with a thud into the shallows. Naked
+coolies rush forward and lay hold of its sides, lest the backwash
+should carry it seaward again; and, with the help of the next wave,
+they manage to haul the boat a little further on shore, and the
+passengers are able to disembark--splashed, perhaps, but safe and
+sound.
+
+When the greetings are over, the Governor leads the way into the Fort,
+where a general meal is served and the news is told and the
+exclamations of surprise are many. In the evening there is a banquet,
+and after the banquet, 'when the gentlemen have finished their wine,'
+and have rejoined the ladies, the stately dances of the period are
+'performed;' and it is not unlikely that before the assembly breaks
+up, some, if not all, of the newly-arrived young ladies have received
+and have accepted offers of matrimony; and it is possible that two or
+more gallants have had a serious quarrel about this young lady or
+that, and even possible that, out of the Governor's sight, swords have
+been drawn in her regard.
+
+On the morrow the unloading begins; and for many days a fleet of
+surf-boats is busily engaged in bringing ashore the broadcloths and
+other English wares which the Company will be able to sell at a large
+profit--not forgetting the barrels of canary and madeira and other
+luxuries that have been imported both for private consumption and also
+for the general table in the Fort. And when the unloading is over and
+the ship has been overhauled after her long voyage, the surf-boats
+will then be engaged in carrying to the ship the calicoes and other
+Indian wares that are to be exported to England for the Company's
+profit there.
+
+The sea-trade of Madras is very much greater now than it was in the
+days of old. Not a day now passes but at least one steamship glides
+into the Madras Harbour, and it is always a much larger vessel than
+was the very largest of the sailing-ships that in those bygone times
+tacked laboriously to an anchorage in the Madras roads. But the
+excitement has disappeared. The steamers come and go with as little
+stir--or not so much--as when a tramcar leaves a crowded
+street-corner.
+
+In Madras there are still some reminders of the times when nautical
+affairs were in more general evidence in Madras than they are now. For
+example, the 'Naval Hospital Road' is still the name of a thoroughfare
+which leads from the Poonamallee Road, opposite the School of Arts, to
+Vepery, and it is a reminder of the fact that there were once upon a
+time sufficient naval men in Madras to make a hospital for sick seamen
+a necessity. The buildings of the old Naval Hospital still exist; they
+are the buildings in the Poonamallee Road opposite the School of Arts.
+In the early part of last century the Naval Hospital itself was
+abolished, and the buildings were converted into a 'Gun Carriage
+Factory'--and this is now no more. It is a good many years indeed
+since the Gun Carriage Factory was closed down; and in Madras at this
+particular time, when there is a very pressing demand for house
+accommodation, many people wonder that such spacious premises in so
+busy a quarter of the city should have been lying idle for so long and
+are hoping to see them once more serving some useful purpose.
+
+Another reminder of the nautical conditions of those days is to be
+found in the existence of an 'Admiralty House.' 'Admiralty House' is a
+fine residence in San Thome, and is now the property of the Raja of
+Vizianagram. It was apparently the San Thome residence of the Admiral
+of the East Indian fleet. That official had another residence within
+the Fort, which used also to be called 'Admiralty House'--the house
+which Robert Clive occupied at the time of his marriage, and which is
+now the Accountant-General's office.
+
+We will glance at one more reminder of the nautical Madras of bygone
+times. At Royapuram there is a large house which is now styled 'Biden
+House,' and is used as a harbour-masters' residence, but which until a
+few years ago was called 'The Biden Home' or 'The Sailors' Home.' It
+is not an ancient building, but it was nevertheless built in the days
+of the sailing-ship, and is a reminder of the times when sailing-ships
+used to lie out in the Madras Roads and the 'Sailors' Home' offered
+seamen entertainment more physically and morally wholesome than that
+which was provided in the low-class hotels and saloons which laid
+themselves out for the spoliation of Jack ashore--and of the time when
+the wreck of a sailing-ship on the Coromandel coast was not an
+uncommon occurrence and parties of distressed seamen were not
+infrequently to be seen in Madras, for whom a temporary 'Home' had to
+be provided. The 'Old Salt'--the picturesque sea-dog of sailing-ship
+days--has disappeared except from story-books--the old-fashioned
+seaman with earrings in his ears and a villainous 'quid' in his mouth,
+dressed in a blue jersey and the baggiest of blue trowsers, and
+lurching as he walked, always 'full of strange oaths', and larding his
+speech with nautical jargon. On shore, after a long sea-voyage, and
+with money in his pockets, the 'Old Salt' in an Eastern port was not
+always a factor for peace and progress. He was not uncommonly too
+frequent a visitor at what the Madras Records call the 'punch houses,'
+and the Records show that he often caused a disturbance. But he was a
+brave fellow, and at sea he did much for England's trade and for
+England's greatness. In an Indian seaport he was a picturesque, if
+troublesome, personage, and nautical Madras has changed with the Old
+Salt's disappearance.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII
+
+THE STORY OF THE SCHOOLS
+
+
+A tourist who goes the round of Madras must surely be impressed with
+the numerous signs of its educational activity. Apart from the
+multitude of juvenile schools in every part of the crowded city, the
+number of academic institutions is large, and educational buildings
+are amongst the most prominent of its edifices. Our tourist, putting
+himself in charge of a guide at the Central Station for a drive along
+the beautiful Marina, sees a number of academic buildings on his way.
+The Medical College is just outside the station yard. The classic
+facade of Pachaiyappa's College for Hindus peeps at him gracefully
+across the Esplanade. The Law College lifts its Saracenic towers above
+him as he passes by. Across the road he sees the collection of
+miniature domes and spires and towers that surmount the various
+buildings that make up the far-famed Christian College. Driving along
+the Marina he sees the Senate House of the Madras University
+surmounted by its four squat towers; farther on he sees the staid
+Engineering College, and the still staider Presidency College, and,
+beyond, the whitewashed buildings of Queen Mary's residential College
+for Women; and on his way back by the Mount Road he sees the
+Muhammedan College, with its little white mosque and its spacious
+playing-fields in the heart of the city. There are yet more colleges
+in Madras; and there are also numerous large schools, some of which
+are attended by more than a thousand pupils.
+
+Yes, the educational activity in Madras is great; and it is
+interesting to reflect that it is a development from very small
+educational enterprises in the days when Madras was young.
+
+The initial enterprise was small indeed. The first school in Madras
+was the little "public school for children, several of whom are
+English", which the French Capuchin priest, Father Ephraim, opened in
+his own house in White Town very soon after Madras came into being.
+His pupils were mostly Portuguese or Portuguese Eurasians, the
+children of Portuguese subjects who had come from Mylapore and who,
+for purposes of trade or commerce, had settled down within the English
+Company's domain. His English pupils must have been children of the
+very few of the Company's civil or military employees that were
+married, or of the still fewer English free settlers. Father Ephraim,
+who according to accounts was a really learned man, charged no fees,
+yet was deeply interested in the welfare of his scholars; and the
+little school must have supplied a great want in those far-off days.
+It is interesting indeed to think of that little 'public school;' for
+the room in the priest's house was the scene of the very first
+beginning of what are now the mighty educational activities of
+Madras--an earnest, moreover, of the great things that the Roman
+Catholic Church was going to do in the way of education, both for boys
+and for girls, in South India.
+
+Father Ephraim's school continued to prosper under his successors, and
+in the seventeenth century it was transferred, as a poor-school, to a
+building in the grounds of what is now the Roman Catholic Cathedral in
+Armenian Street; and in 1875 it was put under the control of the
+brothers of St. Patrick, an Irish order of educational monks, and it
+became St. Patrick's orphanage. Later the brothers transferred
+themselves and their orphanage to the spacious park--Elphinstone
+Park--on the southern bank of the Adyar River, the premises which they
+occupy still.
+
+For some thirty years the Company took no part in educational work,
+and the children of Madras were left entirely to Father Ephraim's
+care. Then for two years a certain Master Patrick Warner was the
+Company's temporary chaplain of Madras--a conscientious and
+uncompromising Protestant minister who wrote some long letters to the
+Directors in England denouncing the laxity of the conduct of the
+Company's employees and deploring the influence that Roman Catholic
+priests had been allowed to obtain in Fort St. George. Finally, he
+went back to England, with the threat that he was going to interview
+the Directors on various matters pertaining to Madras; and that he
+succeeded in making himself heard is to be seen in the fact that in
+the following year the Directors sent a Protestant schoolmaster out to
+Madras. The letter in which they notified the appointment to the
+Governor in Council at Fort St. George was assuredly inspired by
+Master Patrick Warner's undoubtedly high-minded representations. They
+wrote that, as there were now in Fort St. George 'so many married
+families,' they were sending out 'one Mr. Ralph Orde to be
+schoolmaster at the Fort ... who is to teach all the Children to read
+English and to write and Cypher gratis, and if any of the other
+Natives, as Portuguez, Gentues (Telugus),[4] or others will send their
+Children to School, we require they be also taught gratis ... and he
+is likewise to instruct them in the Principles of the Protestant
+religion.' Mr. Ralph Orde arrived by the same ship which brought the
+letter, and his arrival (1677) is another notable event in the history
+of education in Madras. It was the first beginning of Government
+education--the laying of the first stone in what is now such a vast
+edifice.
+
+[Footnote 4: In modern Madras the great majority of the Hindu
+residents are Tamils; but in the beginning there were very few Tamil
+immigrants, and the Hindu residents were nearly all of them Telugus
+(Gentoos).]
+
+In appointing a schoolmaster, the Directors meant to do their best for
+education in their rising city; for they had [5]engaged no mean
+dominie on a menial's pay. In choosing Mr. Ralph Orde they chose a
+good man, and they paid him accordingly. He was to dine at the General
+Table, and his salary was to be L50 a year, which in those days was no
+small sum--more than the salary of some of the Members of Council.
+Perhaps, indeed, they got too good a man for the post; for after five
+years of educational work in Madras, Mr. Orde complained that his
+schoolmastering had been 'much prejudicial to my health,' and he asked
+to be relieved of his duties and to be appointed to a post in the
+Company's civil service instead. His request was granted. A new
+schoolmaster was appointed; and as a 'Civilian' Mr. Orde worked with
+such success that in two or three years he was sent to Sumatra to be
+the Chief of a factory that he was to found on the west coast of the
+island. The ex-schoolmaster would, perhaps, have risen to be Governor
+of Madras, but it would seem that life in the East had really been
+'much prejudicial to his health,' for he died in Sumatra ten years
+after his first arrival in Madras.
+
+In 1688, by virtue of the Company's Royal Charter, a Corporation of
+the City of Madras came into being, and it was among their delegated
+duties that they should build a school in Black Town for the purpose
+of teaching 'Native children to speak, read, and write the English
+Tongue, and to understand Arithmetic and Merchants' Accompts.' Three
+years later, however, Elihu Yale, Governor of Madras, complained to
+the Corporation that, although they had been empowered to levy taxes
+on the citizens, they had not so much as thought about building a
+school, and had neglected various other civic responsibilities. The
+Company--rightly or wrongly--sought to justify their inaction with the
+excuse which the Corporation of Madras has--rightly or wrongly--made
+for civic inaction so many times since, namely that 'no funds' had
+been assigned to them by Government for the works that they were
+called upon to undertake. As for taxation, they remarked that the
+people in Black Town had not been schooled to civic taxation; and it
+is true that any ruthless collection of taxes might have meant
+wholesale departures from the city, or at any rate a serious check to
+further immigration. So the municipal school for Native children never
+came into being.
+
+Meanwhile the Company's free school in White Town, started by Mr.
+Orde, continued its work under Mr. Orde's successors; and elementary
+instruction was imparted therein to a heterogeneous crowd of
+children--English, Eurasians, and Indians--Christians and Hindus.
+Eventually the school was put in charge of the chaplain of St. Mary's
+Church in the Fort, and the chaplain and his churchwardens agreed in
+thinking that such education was not of the kind that a Church should
+control, and that it was rather their duty to institute in Madras a
+residential free-school for poor Protestant children of British
+descent, which should be conducted on the lines of the many 'charity
+schools' in England; and in 1715, with the approval of the Directors,
+'St. Mary's Church Charity School' was founded. The event is of
+particular interest; for St. Mary's Church Charity School developed
+later into the 'Male Asylum'--the institution which has done so much
+for boys and girls for so many years, and which, after changing its
+habitation on various occasions, is now comfortably housed in spacious
+premises in the Poonamallee road.
+
+The year 1715 is noteworthy on another account. St. Mary's School
+having been founded solely for the benefit of children of European
+descent, the native children who had attended the Company's day-school
+were deprived of education. The Society for the Promotion of Christian
+Knowledge undertook to supply the want, by establishing schools in
+Madras for the special benefit of Indian children; and the year 1715,
+therefore, is the date which marks the first beginning of the
+educational work that English Protestant missionary societies have
+done in India. The Society found themselves unable to take up the work
+immediately themselves; so they applied to the vigorous Danish
+Lutheran Mission at Tranquebar, which was then a Danish settlement;
+and a Danish minister was sent to Madras to set things going.
+
+In the course of time Madras had become a much more habitable city
+than it had been in its first beginnings, and a much more possible
+place of residence for European women. The Company's employees,
+therefore, were more and more disposed to matrimony; and, as already
+related, the Directors, believing that married men made steadier
+employees, had from early times encouraged the nuptial humour by
+sending out from England periodical batches of well-connected young
+women as prospective brides for employees who lacked either the means
+or the inclination to take a trip home to choose partners for
+themselves. The number of European fathers and mothers, therefore, in
+Madras was continually increasing; and for the education of their
+children, as also for that of children of well-to-do Eurasians, there
+was need of a different kind of education than the various
+free-schools supplied. Home education, with or without paid tutors and
+governesses, probably served its turn with some, but it was certain
+that sooner or later the private school would come into being.
+
+We are unable to say when the first private school in Madras was
+started; but an advertisement in one of the issues of the _Madras
+Courier_, in 1790, shows that a private school for boys was started in
+that year; and it was probably the first. The enterprising
+educationist was Mr. John Holmes, M.A., who opened the 'Madras
+Academy' in Black Town for the instruction of boys in 'Reading,
+Writing, Arithmetic, History, the use of the Globes, French, Greek,
+and Latin.' Other towns in the Madras Presidency had their English
+residents, so Mr. Holmes offered to accommodate 'a few Boarders;' and
+the offer was found so convenient that certain parents wanted
+accommodation for their girls as well as for their boys. Mr. Holmes
+was willing to receive all the pupils that he could get; for in an
+advertisement two months later he announced that he was going to move
+to a larger house in which 'apartments will be allotted for the Young
+Ladies entirely removed and separate from the Young Gentlemen.'
+
+The Madras Academy was eminently successful; but the mixed boarding
+school was not its most commendable side; and in the following year an
+enterprising lady-educationist announced that she was opening in Black
+Town a 'Female Boarding School,' in which her young ladies would be
+'genteelly boarded, tenderly treated, carefully Educated, and the most
+strict attention paid to their Morals,' and the school was to be
+conducted as far as possible 'in the manner most approv'd of in
+England.' The enterprising lady-educationist was a Mrs. Murray, who
+had been a mistress in the Female Asylum. Her syllabus of education
+was of a more feminine sort than that which was followed at the Madras
+Academy; for, as announced in the prospectus, it included 'Reading and
+Writing, the English language and Arithmetic; Music, French, Drawing
+and Dancing; with Lace, Tambour, and Embroidery, all sorts of Plain
+and Flowered needle-work.' The two syllabuses are interesting
+reminders as to what were the usual subjects of education for European
+boys and girls a century and a half ago.
+
+Schools, therefore, were available for children of every
+class--European and Indian, rich and poor; but the schools for
+Indians, conducted either by missionaries or by indigenous teachers,
+were of an elementary kind; and, apart from Oriental studies in
+indigenous institutions, there was little or nothing in the way of
+higher education for Indians either in Madras or anywhere else in
+India. This condition was altered, however, during the governorship of
+Lord William Bentinck, the magnanimous if not brilliant
+governor-general whose term of office lasted for seven years, from
+1828 to 1835.
+
+During this period everything favoured educational progress in India.
+There was peace in England and there was peace in India. It was a time
+of great educational developments in England, as is manifested by the
+fact that within this period the London University and Durham
+University were opened, and the great British Association for the
+Advancement of Science was established. Such conditions in England had
+their influence in India, and the more so because Lord William
+Bentinck was ardent for progress. The opening of the Madras Medical
+College in 1835 was one of the signs of the times. During Lord William
+Bentinck's term of office education in India was reformed. Macaulay,
+afterwards Lord Macaulay, was an Indian official at the time, and he
+penned a notable report on education in India, in which he belittled
+vernacular learning and asserted that the Government of India would do
+well to discountenance it altogether, and to introduce western
+learning and the study of English literature into all schools under
+Government control, and to make it a rule that the English language
+was to be the only medium of instruction. Whether or not Macaulay's
+views were correct, they were adopted by the Government of India, and
+Lord William Bentinck issued in 1835 a resolution in accordance
+therewith, in which he sought to secure the people's acceptance of
+English education for their children by notifying that a knowledge of
+English would in future be necessary for admission into Government
+service. Government service is particularly coveted in India, and the
+resolution encouraged the foundation of schools of a good class in
+which special attention would be given to the study of the English
+language; and within a few years a number of important educational
+institutions had been founded in different parts of India.
+
+In South India the Madras Christian College, called originally 'The
+General Assembly's Institution,' was first in the field. It was
+founded in 1837, by the Rev. John Anderson, the first missionary that
+the Church of Scotland sent out to Madras. The name of the founder is
+preserved in the 'Anderson Hall' in one of the college buildings; but
+the remarkable progress of the institution has been very specially due
+to the untiring energy of the Rev. Dr. Miller, whose statue stands on
+the opposite side of the public road. Dr. Miller was Principal for a
+number of years, and now (1921) at a great age the venerable
+educationist is living in retirement in Scotland.
+
+In 1839, two years after the foundation of the Christian College, the
+Roman Catholic Bishop in Madras, Dr. Carew, founded St. Mary's
+Seminary, which after forty-five years became St. Mary's College, and
+which is now represented by St. Mary's High School for Europeans and
+St. Gabriel's High School for Indians.
+
+Two years later, in 1841, the Presidency College had its beginning, in
+a rented room in Egmore. At its foundation it was not a Government
+institution, but was a public school under the control of governors,
+who were chosen from among the leading Europeans and Indians in
+Madras, with the Advocate-General as their first president. It was
+styled 'The High School of the Madras University,' and it was the
+founders' intention that when a college department had been added, the
+institution should be called the 'Madras University,' and should apply
+for a charter. In the sixties, however, the Madras Government was
+considering a scheme of its own for a University of Madras, whereupon
+the governors of the 'University High School' transferred their school
+to the Government, who called it the 'Presidency College.' The
+Presidency College continued to work in the rented building until
+1870, when the building that it now occupies was publicly opened by
+the Duke of Edinburgh.
+
+[Illustration: UNIVERSITY SENATE HOUSE]
+
+Pachaiyappa's College, a well-known Hindu institution, had its first
+beginning in 1842. Like the other colleges in Madras, it began as a
+school; the school was called 'Pachaiyappa's Central Institution,' and
+was located in Black Town. The present buildings were opened in 1850
+by Sir Henry Pottinger, an ex-governor of Madras, amid a large
+gathering of leading European and Indian residents; and for a number
+of years the annual 'Day' at Pachaiyappa's College was an important
+social event. Pachaiyappa was a rich and religious Hindu, who made his
+money as a broker in the Company's service, and who died more than a
+hundred years ago leaving a lakh of pagodas--some 3 1/2 lakhs of
+rupees--for temple purposes. The trustees neglected the provisions of
+the will, whereupon the High Court assumed control of the funds,
+which under the Court's control rose to the value of nearly Rs. 7 1/2
+lakhs. The original amount was set apart for the fulfilment of the
+terms of the will, and the surplus was assigned to educational
+purposes in Pachaiyappa's name.
+
+[Illustration: PACHAIYAPPA'S COLLEGE.]
+
+The education of girls shared in the development; for in 1842 the
+first party of Nuns of the Presentation Order was brought out from
+Ireland, and a convent, with a boarding school and an orphanage,--the
+'Georgetown Convent' of to-day--was established in Black Town. The
+'Vepery Convent School' and some of the other successful convent
+schools in Madras are controlled by nuns of the same Order.
+
+Education in India was given further impetus in the time of Lord
+Dalhousie. During his term of office (1848-1856) the present system of
+education, under a Director of Public Instruction, was introduced, and
+Government was empowered to make liberal educational grants, and to
+establish universities. The despatch in which the educational
+developments were announced has been called 'the intellectual charter
+of India.'
+
+[Illustration: DOVETON PROTESTANT COLLEGE]
+
+Various institutions in Madras are representative of this later
+development. A Government 'Normal School'--which has grown into the
+'Teachers' College' of to-day--was established in 1856, to increase
+the number and the efficiency of indigenous teachers; and the Madras
+University was incorporated in 1857, for the control and the
+development of higher education. Of large high schools still
+existing, the Harris High School in Royapettah was founded by the
+Church Missionary Society in 1856, for the education of Mohammedan
+boys, and was named after Lord Harris, who was Governor of Madras at
+the time; and the Hindu High School, in Triplicane, was founded in
+1857. Doveton College, Vepery, for Anglo-Indian boys was opened in
+1855. It owes its existence to a wealthy Eurasian, Captain John
+Doveton, who obtained his Captaincy in the service of the Nizam of
+Hyderabad, and who left a large sum of money to an earlier
+institution, the Parental Academy, which was afterwards called Doveton
+College in the deceased officer's honour. Within later years
+philanthropic and enterprising Indians have done much for education,
+and numerous schools both for boys and for girls have been established
+by their efforts.
+
+An educational building of curious interest is the office of the
+Director of Public Instruction, in Nungumbaukam. It is commonly known
+as the 'Old College'. In the masonry of a large arch at the entrance,
+as well as on another arch within, quaint designs have been
+introduced--mysterious faces, and flags, and strange geometrical
+figures. The house was the property of a wealthy Armenian merchant
+named Moorat, who died more than a hundred years ago; and it may be
+supposed that the quaint designs were after the nature of family
+memorials. In the early part of last century the Armenian merchant's
+son sold the building to Government, who used it as a 'College for
+Junior Civilians.' Hence the designation 'Old College'; but the name
+does not mean that it was a building in which young civilians were
+trained, but means that it was a building in which there were
+'colleagues' in residence, or, in other words, that, the 'General
+Table' having been dissolved, the 'College' was a mess-house for
+junior civilians. Later, its large hall was for many years a
+recognized assembly-room for amateur concerts, amateur dramatic
+entertainments, and other occasions of social reunion. The quaint
+devices on the gates are still preserved, and the name of the old
+'College' still survives; but the associations have gone. Not even as
+a ghost does the long-robed Armenian merchant tread the floors; the
+junior civilians, with their ancient pranks and their antiquated
+jests, have departed; in the great hall the lilt of the song and the
+frenzy of the fiddles for the dance and the amateur mouthings of the
+drama are heard no more. A multitude of turbanned clerks are pouring
+forth the blue-black ink from their pens; schoolmasters haunt the
+portals to press their claims for educational grants for their own
+particular schools; and the click of a chorus of typewriters is the
+only music that is borne upon the breeze.
+
+I have told the story of the schools. It is creditable to Madras; for
+great things have been done since that first little 'public school'
+was opened in the Fort.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV
+
+HERE AND THERE
+
+
+Before closing the story of Madras, it will be well to speak, at least
+very briefly, of some of the prominent landmarks of the city that we
+have not yet described.
+
+Of churches, we should mention St. George's Cathedral. It was opened
+in 1816, not as a cathedral but as an ordinary church; for Madras then
+was not a diocese by itself, but was a part of the immense diocese of
+Calcutta. The new church was regarded as a necessity; for a great many
+'garden houses' had sprung up in and about the Mount Road, in the area
+that was called the 'Choultry Plain,' and the Directors of the Company
+agreed with representations from Madras that it was undesirable that
+English residents within the bounds should be able to stay away from
+the Church-services on Sunday with the reasonable excuse that the
+nearest Anglican church--St. Mary's in the Fort--was too far away from
+their houses for them to be expected to attend. So the new church was
+built; and some twenty years later, when Dr. Corrie, Archdeacon of
+Calcutta, was consecrated first Bishop of Madras, the church became
+'the Cathedral Church of St. George.' St. George's Cathedral is a
+stately building, with a spire 139 feet high, and it stands in
+spacious grounds. The total cost was more than two lakhs of rupees;
+but nobody had to be asked to subscribe, for the money was available
+from a peculiar source. It was an age in which State lotteries were in
+vogue; Madras had followed the fashion with a series of official
+lotteries, and a 'Lottery Fund' had been created from the profits, so
+that there was always a good supply of cash available for
+extraordinary expenses, such as mending the roads or entertaining
+distinguished visitors. It was from the Lottery Fund that the cost of
+building St. George's was met.
+
+[Illustration: ST. GEORGE'S CATHEDRAL.]
+
+St. Andrew's Church--most commonly known as 'The Kirk'--was planned
+while St. George's was being built; and it is remarkable that it was
+not projected sooner than it was. Scotchmen in Madras, as in other
+parts of India, apart from Scottish soldiers, have been many; and the
+names of a number of Madras roads and houses--such as Anderson Road,
+Graeme's Road, Davidson Street, Brodie Castle, Leith Castle, Mackay's
+Gardens--are reminders of the fact that not a few of the Scots of
+Madras have been influential; and at the time when a second Anglican
+church was being built in the city it was suggested to the Directors
+of the Company in England that the numerous residents who were
+members of the Church of Scotland ought to have a church too. The
+Directors, who realized no doubt the desirability of being agreeable
+to the many Scots in Madras, one of whom at the time was the Governor
+himself, Mr. Hugh Elliot, consented to the suggestion, and in 1815
+they sent out a notification that a Presbyterian church was to be
+built not only at Madras but also in each of the other Presidency
+cities at the Company's expense, and that the Company would maintain a
+Presbyterian chaplain at each. The Directors laid down no instructions
+as to what was to be the maximum cost of each kirk, but it was
+unpretentious buildings that they had in mind. At Bombay a large kirk
+was built for less than half a lakh of rupees, but for the kirk at
+Madras the Madras Government submitted a bill for nearly Rs. 2 1/4
+lakhs--some Rs. 10,000 more than the total cost of St. George's
+Cathedral, and the Directors were indignant. The Kirk, however, had
+been built; and it is one of the handsome churches of Madras.[5] It is
+a domed building, with a tall steeple over the Grecian facade; and
+some of its critics have said that the combination of dome and steeple
+gives the edifice a strangely camel-backed appearance; but, however
+that may be, the dome adds beauty to the interior. When the Church was
+opened, it was found that the dome evoked disturbing echoes, and a
+large additional expense had to be incurred to exorcise the wandering
+voices. The steeple reaches a height of 166 1/2 feet, which is 27 1/2
+feet higher than that of St. George's.
+
+[Illustration: ST. ANDREW'S (THE "KIRK").]
+
+[Footnote 5: Major de Haviland, of the Madras Engineers, built St.
+George's on a plan designed by Major Caldwell, his senior in the
+service. Major de Haviland both designed the Kirk and built it, and he
+devoted himself to his work and was very proud of his creation, which
+was nevertheless much criticized by unfriendly critics.]
+
+The Roman Catholic Cathedral at Mylapore has been described on page
+61. A sketch of the handsome building is given on the next page.
+
+The High Court, a red Saracenic structure that spreads itself out over
+a large area between Georgetown and the Fort, is a modern building. It
+was opened within the memory of elderly lawyers of Madras, some of
+whom used themselves to practise in the big building which is now the
+Collector's Office, opposite the gate of the Port Trust premises, and
+which was for many years the habitation of the Supreme Court at
+Madras. The present High Court is a mighty monument to the development
+of 'The Law' in Madras. In the early days of Fort St. George the
+Company administered its own justice to its own people, and the court
+was held in a building in the Fort. Punishments in those far-off
+times, judicial or otherwise, were usually severe; and the Records
+show that even a civil servant of junior rank who gave trouble was
+liable to be awarded some such penalty as to sit for an hour or more
+on a sharp-backed 'wooden horse,' with or without weights attached to
+the delinquent's feet. In the town that grew up outside the Fort,
+justice as between natives of the soil was administered by an Indian
+_adikhari_, who represented the lord of the soil. As the Company's
+influence and authority increased, various courts of law were
+created--and the Records show that there were certainly crimes enough
+to justify their creation. A large number of the criminal trials in
+the earlier years of Madras were in respect of thefts of children, to
+sell them as slaves, especially to Dutch merchants along the coast,
+where the victims were not likely to be traced. Slavery was a
+recognized condition of life in old Madras, as indeed it was in the
+whole of Europe; and in the Council-book of Fort St. George there is
+still to be seen an Order, dated September 29, 1687, "that Mr. Fraser
+do buy forty young Sound Slaves for the Rt. Hon'ble Company," who were
+to be made to work as boatmen in the Company's fleet of surf-boats. It
+was in reference to a slave that the first case of trial by jury was
+held in Madras, in 1665, and it was a _cause celebre_. The prisoner
+was a Mrs. Dawes, who was accused of having murdered a slave girl in
+her service. The Governor himself, who, like a doge of Venice, was
+both ruler and judge, was on the bench, and the twelve jurymen gave a
+unanimous verdict that Mrs. Dawes was 'guilty of the murther, but not
+in mannere and forme,' by which they seem to have meant that the
+circumstances of the case exonerated her from the capital charge.
+Being pressed to give a verdict 'without exception or limitation,'
+they brought in a unanimous verdict of 'not guilty,' whereupon the
+Governor felt that, although the woman had been guilty of a crime, he
+had no help for it but to set her free. He thereupon wrote to the
+Directors in England, expressing his disapproval of 'such an
+unexpected verdict,' and notifying that in his ignorance of the law
+and its formalities he was by no means confident that he had done the
+right thing; and the end of it was that the Governor, presumably with
+the Directors' approval, created two justices, on whom was thereafter
+to fall the responsibility of hearing all such serious cases. Change
+upon change! and to-day the Madras High Court, with the various other
+courts in different parts of the city, is a very visible symbol of the
+serious reality of the administration of justice.
+
+[Illustration: ST. THOME CATHEDRAL.]
+
+The story of the origin of the principal literary and scientific
+institutions in Madras is interesting. In the olden times, when there
+were no literary or scientific magazines by which an 'exile in the
+East' could keep himself in touch with the developments of genius
+throughout the world, people in India with literary or scientific
+tastes had to be content to gratify their tastes with local
+researches, and to depend upon one another for any interchange of
+ideas. This meant that old-time literary and scientific societies in
+India were naturally more enthusiastic than most such societies in
+India are now. Madras indeed has been particularly fortunate in her
+time in having had residents who were earnest in cultured pursuits,
+and whose work survives, directly or indirectly, at the present day.
+
+For example, it was an old-time Madras Civilian, with a hobby for
+astronomy and with a private observatory of his own, that created a
+local interest in the science and is thereby to be regarded as the
+originator of the Madras Observatory--the first British Observatory in
+the East, a famous institution in olden days, which secured for Madras
+the honour--which is still hers--of setting the standard of time
+throughout the whole of India. The Madras Civilian was Mr. William
+Petrie, an extraordinarily versatile genius, who entered the service
+as a young man and rose to be a member of the Government, yet managed
+to find time for very serious astronomical pursuits in his house at
+Nungambaukam. Going home to England on long furlough, Mr. Petrie
+allowed the Madras Government to acquire his instruments; and in 1791,
+when he came back to Madras, the Madras Observatory was built, with
+Mr. Petrie as adviser.
+
+Another enthusiastic scientist in Madras in the same period was Dr.
+James Anderson, who, after many years of work in the Company's medical
+service, settled down at Madras as 'Physician-General,' on a salary of
+L2,500 a year, and devoted himself and a large part of his handsome
+salary to botanical pursuits. He acquired in Nungambaukam more than a
+hundred acres of land, which included what are now the grounds of the
+houses that go by the names of Pycroft's Gardens and Tulloch's
+Gardens; and for nearly a quarter of a century, until his death, Dr.
+Anderson utilized his leisure in the creation and development of a
+useful and ornamental botanical garden. He was most enthusiastic over
+his hobby, and he was continually carrying out botanical and
+agricultural experiments, of medical or commercial or industrial
+value. His grounds were open to the public, and 'Dr. Anderson's
+Botanical Gardens' became famous, and were a place of popular resort.
+Dr. Anderson died at the age of seventy-two; and in St. George's
+Cathedral his memory is graced with a fine statue that was carved by
+the most eminent sculptor, Sir Francis Chantrey, and for which his
+medical brethren in the Madras Service subscribed. How many years
+after his death his gardens continued to exist it might be difficult
+to say, but they must have suffered badly from the want of the ardent
+botanist's enthusiastic care. But the botanic spirit that Dr. Anderson
+had started remained alive in Madras; for in 1835, when, to the regret
+of many, his gardens had been split up into building-sites for two
+private residences, there was still a sufficient number of botanically
+inclined people in the city to found the Agri-Horticultural Society of
+Madras, a still-energetic body whose beautiful gardens at Teynampet
+deserve to be more generally appreciated by the public than they are.
+
+The Madras Literary Society was founded a good many years ago. Its
+work now is that of a circulating library; but in earlier times it was
+especially a 'literary society,' and its meetings, at which lectures
+were delivered or papers were read and discussed, were crowded
+gatherings of the leading Europeans in the city. The original Literary
+Society included scientific researches within its scope, and
+scientific members used to discourse learnedly on scientific subjects
+of topical interest, such as 'The Land-Crabs of Madras,' or
+'Prehistoric Tombs in the Salem District,' or 'Gold in the Wynaad of
+Malabar.' The name of the Society remains, but the literary and
+scientific meetings are no more. The last lecture, if memory fails
+not, was delivered in the nineties, and the audience was not large
+enough or enthusiastic enough to denote that lectures were any longer
+in demand. As a 'Literary Society and Auxiliary of the Royal Asiatic
+Society,' the institution has outlived its requirement; but it has a
+valuable store of more than 50,000 books, new and old, on all
+subjects, and it is continually adding to the number; and, as a
+circulating library of a high standard, it fulfils an excellent
+literary purpose.
+
+The Madras Museum is a magnificent institution. It is to the Madras
+Literary Society that it owes its being; and the Literary Society did
+Madras splendid service in the initiation thereof. This was in 1851,
+when the Literary Society presented its fine collection of geological
+specimens to the Madras Government as the nucleus of the rich and
+varied store of treasures that the Madras Museum now displays. The
+Government lodged the geological specimens in the 'Collector's
+Cutcherry'--a house which forms a part--the oldest part--of the Museum
+buildings of to-day. Before the Government acquired the house in 1830
+for a Cutcherry, the house had been private property, and, under the
+name of the 'Pantheon,' it had been for many years the predecessor of
+the Old College as the 'Assembly Rooms', wherein Madras Society had
+its balls, its plays, and its big dinners. The name of the old
+building still survives in the Pantheon Road, in which the Museum is
+situated.
+
+A high circular building on the Marina always attracts a stranger's
+attention. It has a curious and interesting history. It is commonly
+called 'The Ice-House,' and the name suggests its original purpose. A
+number of years ago, when ice-factories had not been started and when
+in Madras the luxury of the 'cool drink' was unknown, somebody
+conceived the idea of importing ship-loads of blocks of ice from
+America. The idea was developed, and about the year 1840 a commercial
+scheme took shape. A large circular building was erected close to the
+sea-beach as a reservoir for the imported ice, which sailing-ships
+brought in huge blocks from the western world; and for a number of
+years the scheme was a commercial success. The ice was sold at four
+annas a pound, and many people in Madras remember the time when it was
+the only ice that was to be had, and large quantities of it were sold.
+With the eventual institution of ice-factories, which could supply ice
+at a much cheaper rate, the enterprise came to an end, and for a
+considerable time the ice-reservoir was out of use. Then somebody
+bought it, and put windows into the walls, and turned it into a
+residence; and meanwhile, as a result of the construction of the
+harbour, the sea receded a long way down the Ice-house shore. As a
+residence, however, a house of so strange a shape was not in request;
+and eventually some benevolent Hindus turned it into a free hostel for
+any preacher or religious teacher of repute, whatever his creed, who
+might be temporarily staying in Madras, especially if he felt that he
+had a message to deliver to the city. But the reputable prophets who
+availed themselves of the proffered hospitality were few; and the
+'Ice-house' had a deserted look. A few years ago the Madras Government
+acquired it for the excellent purpose of a 'Brahman Widows' Home' for
+Brahman girl-widows at school. This is the purpose that it now
+fulfils. From Ice-house to child-widows' home! It is a great
+transformation--from a house whose chambers were stored with hard
+blocks of cold ice to a house whose chambers are aglow with the warmth
+of young life! There is room to hope that in course of time the
+Child-widows' Home will have outlived its purpose--in the time when
+gentler ideals will prevail, and the sorrows of child-widows will have
+ceased, and the institution will no longer be a need.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV
+
+'NO MEAN CITY'
+
+
+It is less than three hundred years since Mr. Francis Day, seeking a
+likely spot for a trading settlement, surveyed the desolate sea-beach
+near the mouth of the Cooum, and decided that the settlement should be
+there. A few scattered huts on the shore and a few catamarans out at
+sea were the only signs of human life, and the breakers that sported
+on the beach were the only manifestations of activity. But the years
+have gone by--wild times and quiet times, years of war and years of
+peaceful progress--and the scene has changed, and great is the
+transformation. In place of the scattered huts there are huge
+buildings on the beach, and behind them is a great and ever greater
+city. The catamarans have not disappeared, but great ships pass to and
+fro in the offing or lie within the shelter of the harbour walls. The
+little 'Factory' in the Fort, within which the Company transacted its
+mercantile business, has gone; but elsewhere in its stead there are
+big offices of numerous commercial firms; and, moreover, there are
+large 'factories' of the modern kind, such as are denoted by tall
+chimneys and the perpetual roar of whirring wheels.
+
+The growth of Madras is a remarkable testimony to British enterprise,
+energy, and perseverance, and also to Indian appreciation of the
+new-comers and of their methods; and it is a matter of satisfaction
+that many illustrious Indians have played an energetic and conspicuous
+part in the development of the city and the promotion of its welfare.
+In many respects the conditions were altogether unfavorable for the
+foundation of a maritime city. There was no natural harbour, and the
+breakers beat continually on the shore; and the so-called river was of
+little practical use. The nearest Indian towns were a good many miles
+away, and the Portuguese merchants in the neighbouring settlement of
+Mylapore were commercial rivals, who might have been supposed to have
+absorbed all the trade that was to be had. Yet Madras is now a large
+city, with more than half a million inhabitants; and its commerce and
+its industries have been so successful that its population is still
+increasing rapidly. Houses are being built everywhere, yet the demand
+increases. Not only are the suburbs being extended, but moreover the
+gardens of existing houses are being everywhere divided, so as to
+provide further building-sites; and two houses or more now stand
+within grounds that were formerly occupied by only one.
+
+But it is well for Madras that, except in respect of some of its
+streets and particular localities, it is not a crowded city, and that
+there is therefore room for such additions. Madras has been called the
+'City of Distances,' and it still deserves the name; for within its
+limits there are some magnificent spaces, and in the garden of many a
+private house the resident can sit of an evening and imagine himself
+in a rural retreat, far from the madding crowd.
+
+Like all cities, Madras has its drab--very drab!--quarters and its
+mean--very mean!--and straggling streets. Madras was not laid out on
+any definite plan. Like ancient Rome, it had in the beginning to
+attract outsiders to come and live there, and outsiders had to be
+given much license to do things their own way, and the city was
+allowed to grow just as it would; and in respect of many of its parts
+there is much room for criticism. But Madras is a fine city
+nevertheless, with a number of stately buildings, both public and
+private, and with great possibilities; and its 'Marina' can truly be
+called magnificent.
+
+But the greatest charm of Madras lies in its history. It was here that
+the foundations of the Indian Empire may be said to have been laid.
+The history of Madras is not a story of aggressive warfare. The
+settlers were gentle merchants, whose weapon was not the sword but the
+pen, and whose only desire it was to be left alone to carry on their
+business in peace. But the rising city was a continual mark for the
+hostility of commercial and political rivals, both European and
+Indian. It was a storm-centre, and the storms were often fierce; and
+the merchants were often compelled to meet force with force. Moreover,
+the merchants were men, and their doings therefore were by no means
+always without reproach; but, with due allowance for human weakness,
+the history of Madras is a history of which Madras may be proud. The
+city has grown from strength to strength, and in its story there is
+much inspiration. This little book has merely told the story in part;
+but it will have served its purpose if it has in any way helped the
+reader to realize that the story of Madras is the story of no mean
+city.
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+_The figures refer to the pages_
+
+
+Admiralty House, 85
+
+Agri-Horticultural Society, 108
+
+Aix-la-Chapelle (Treaty), 28, 39
+
+Amir Mahal, 67
+
+Anderson, Dr. J., 107
+
+Anderson, Rev. J., 95
+
+Appar, 61
+
+Arcot, Siege of, 64
+
+Arcot, Prince of, 67
+
+Armagaum, 2, 5, 9
+
+Armenians, 19, 20
+
+Armenian street, 19, 59
+
+Assumption Church, 56
+
+Aurangzeb, 39, 64
+
+
+Bantam, 8
+
+Bentinck (Governor-General), 94
+
+Biden House, 86
+
+Black Town (Old), 19, 22, 25, 26, 29
+
+Black Town (New), 29, 31, 32
+
+Bound Hedge, The, 41
+
+Bourchier (Governor), 76
+
+Brahman Widows' Home, 109, 110
+
+
+Carew (R. C. Bishop), 95
+
+Carnatic, The, 63
+
+Cassa Verona, 39
+
+Chandragiri (Rajah), 6, 7, 63, 64
+
+Chepauk, 22
+
+Chepauk Palace, 22, 63-68
+
+China, 22
+
+China Bazaar, 22
+
+Chintadripet, 23
+
+Christian College, 87, 95
+
+Clive (Governor), 76, 77
+
+Clive, Robert, 17, 28, 64, 81
+
+Cochrane's Canal, 35
+
+Cogan, Andrew, 7, 9
+
+Convent Schools, 97, 98
+
+Cooum River, 6, 9, 12
+
+Coral trade, 20
+
+Corrie, Bishop, 101
+
+Corporation of Madras, 90
+
+Cyclone, 78, 79
+
+
+Dalhousie (Governor-General), 67, 98
+
+Danish Lutheran Mission, 92
+
+Da-ud Khan, 13, 14, 22
+
+Day, Francis, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 111
+
+De Haviland, Major, 104 (Note)
+
+Diamond trade, 20
+
+Doveton College, 98, 99
+
+Dupleix, 27, 39
+
+DuPre, Mr., 31, 32
+
+Dutch, The, 2, 5, 13, 39, 56
+
+
+Egmore, 1, 21, 31, (acquisition), 35, 41, (the Egmore Fort), 43-46
+
+Elliot, Hugh (Governor), 103
+
+Elphinstone Park, 38
+
+Engineering College, 87
+
+'English Burying Place', 51, 52
+
+Ephraim, Father, 57-59, 88, 89
+
+
+'Factory,' The, 12, 69, 71
+
+'Female Boarding School', 93
+
+Flag (E. India Co.), 81
+
+Fort St. George, 12-19, 27, 30
+
+French, The, 14, 15, 26, 27-31, 50
+
+
+'Garden-Houses', 70
+
+Gentoos (Telugus), 19, 89
+
+Georgetown, 29
+
+Georgetown Convent, 97
+
+Goa, 1, 58
+
+Golconda, King of, 13, 22, 35, 39, 64
+
+Government House, Madras, 74-77
+
+Government House, Guindy, 77
+
+Gyfford (Governor), 72
+
+
+Haidar Ali, 15, 22, 31-33, 40, 65
+
+Harbour, The, 79
+
+Harris High School, 99
+
+Hastings, Warren, 65, 78
+
+High Court, 104
+
+Hindu High School, 99
+
+Holmes, John, 92, 93
+
+Hyderabad, Nizam of, 64
+
+Hynmers, Joseph, 53
+
+
+Ice-House, The, 109
+
+
+Jews in Madras, 20, 21, 25
+
+
+Kuppam, 1
+
+
+Labourdonnais, 27
+
+Lally, 30, 31, 40, 50, 75
+
+Langhorn (Governor), 58
+
+Law College, 87
+
+Literary Society, 108
+
+Little Mount, 60, 61
+
+Luz Church, The, 62
+
+
+Macartney (Governor), 66
+
+Macaulay, 94
+
+Madras Literary Society, 108
+
+Madre-de-Deus Church, 62
+
+Male Asylum, 43, 44, 91
+
+Manucci, 9 (Note)
+
+Marina, The, 79, 87
+
+Marmalong Bridge, 20
+
+Mastan, 62
+
+Masulipatam, 2, 7
+
+Medical College, 87, 94
+
+Miller, Rev. Dr., 95
+
+Mohammed Ali (_See_ 'Walajah'), 64
+
+Mohammedans, 21, 22
+
+Mohammedan College, 87
+
+'Moors', 21, 24
+
+Murray, Mrs., 93
+
+Museum, The, 108, 109
+
+Mylapore, 1, 5, 6, 38, 61 (_See_ also San Thome)
+
+
+Nattukottai Chetties, 21
+
+Naval Hospital Road, 85
+
+Nungumbaukam, 37, 41
+
+
+Observatory, The, 107
+
+'Old College', The, 99, 100
+
+Orde, Ralph, 89, 90
+
+
+Pachaiyappa's College, 87, 96, 97
+
+Parthasarathy Temple, 1
+
+Petrie, W., 107
+
+Peyton, Capt., 27
+
+Peyalvar, 61
+
+Pitt (Governor), 73
+
+Pondicherry, 15, 20, 21, 60
+
+Poonamallee (Naik), 6, 7
+
+Popham's Broadway, 9 (Note)
+
+Portuguese, The, 1, 2, 5, 6, 39, 56, 58, 112
+
+'Portuguese Burying Place', 59
+
+Pottinger, Sir H., 96
+
+Powney Family, The, 53
+
+Presentation Nuns, 97
+
+Presidency College, 87, 95, 96
+
+Pulicat, 2
+
+Pursewaukam, 35, 41
+
+
+Queen Mary's College for Women, 87
+
+
+Rajah Mahal (Chandragiri), 7
+
+Royapettah, 22
+
+
+St. Andrew's (The 'Kirk'), 103, 104
+
+St. Andrew's Church (R. C.), 58, 59
+
+St. Gabriel's High School, 95
+
+St. George's Cathedral, 101
+
+St. Mary's Cathedral (R. C.), 59, 60
+
+St. Mary's Charity School, 91
+
+St. Mary's Church (Fort), 17, 47-55
+
+St. Mary's High School, 95
+
+St. Matthias's Church, 20
+
+St. Patrick's Orphanage, 88
+
+St. Thomas's Mount, 61, 62
+
+San Thome, 13, 31, 32,
+  (acquisition), 38-40,
+  (redoubt), 43,
+  Cathedral, 61, 104 (_See_ also 'Mylapore')
+
+Saunders (Governor), 73
+
+Sea-Gate, 80
+
+Senate House, 87, 96
+
+Slavery in Madras, 106
+
+S.P.C.K., 91
+
+
+Teachers' College, 98
+
+Thomas, St., 38, 60, 61
+
+Tipu Sultan, 31, 43, 65, 66, 75
+
+Tiruvalluvar, 61
+
+Tondiarpet, 35
+
+Trincomalee, 27
+
+Triplicane, 1, 21, 22, 32, (acquisition), 35
+
+Triplicane River, 6, 8 (_See_ 'Cooum')
+
+Triplicane Temple, 1
+
+
+Umdat-ul-Umara, 66
+
+University of Madras, 66
+
+Uscan, Peter, 19, 20
+
+
+Vepery, 1, (acquisition), 37-88
+
+Vepery Convent School, 98
+
+
+Walajah (Nawab), 22, 64-66
+
+Wall Tax Road, 33
+
+Warner, Rev. P., 58, 89
+
+Washermanpet, 24
+
+Weavers' Street, 23
+
+White Town, 19, 25, 27
+
+Widows' Home, The, 109
+
+
+Yale (Governor), 16, 23, 35, 53, 57, 90
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of The Story of Madras, by Glyn Barlow
+
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