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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Fireplace, by Henry H. Saylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Fireplace
+
+Author: Henry H. Saylor
+
+Release Date: September 19, 2008 [EBook #26670]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A FIREPLACE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Markus Brenner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               MAKING A
+                               FIREPLACE
+
+
+                         _By_ HENRY H. SAYLOR
+
+                               AUTHOR OF
+                 BUNGALOWS, MAKING A ROSE GARDEN, ETC.
+
+                            [Illustration]
+
+
+                               NEW YORK
+                        McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+                                 1913
+
+
+
+                          Copyright, 1913, by
+                          MCBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+                       Published, January, 1913
+
+
+
+    [Illustration: The fireplace of long ago, made large enough to
+    accommodate most of the kitchen’s pots and pans beside the fire]
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                      PAGE
+  INTRODUCTION                                           1
+
+  CONSTRUCTION                                           7
+
+  MISCELLANEOUS ODD FORMS                               22
+
+  FACINGS AND MANTELS                                   25
+
+  MENDING POOR FIREPLACES                               31
+
+  FIREPLACE ACCESSORIES                                 36
+
+  BUILDING THE FIRE                                     45
+
+
+
+
+                           THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  THE FIREPLACE OF LONG AGO                 _Frontispiece_
+
+                                             FACING PAGE
+  AN ENGLISH BASKET GRATE IN BRASS                       4
+
+  A MODERN ENGLISH FIRE CORNER IN CONTRASTING TILES      4
+
+  AN INGLENOOK WITH STONE HEARTH                        22
+
+  CAEN STONE MANTEL FOR THE FORMAL TYPE                 26
+
+  AN INFORMAL FIREPLACE IN FIELD STONE                  30
+
+  THE MODERN COLONIAL TYPE WITH BRICK FACING AND
+  WHITE WOOD MANTEL                                     38
+
+  A CRAFTSMAN TYPE IN BRICK WITH COPPER HOOD            46
+
+  A RECESSED FIREPLACE IN BRICK AND ROUGH PLASTER       50
+
+
+
+
+                             INTRODUCTION
+
+
+In a book of this kind there is no particular need for dwelling at
+length on the desirability of having a fireplace. That will be taken for
+granted. It is enough to say that in these days a home can scarcely be
+considered worthy of the name if it does not contain at least one
+hearth. There is some inexplicable quality in a wood fire that exerts
+almost a hypnotic influence upon those who eagerly gather about it. The
+smoldering glow of the logs induces a calm and introspective mood that
+banishes all the trivialities and distractions of the day’s work and
+gives one an opportunity to replenish his store of energy for the coming
+day.
+
+The open fire, unlike most of the comforts that we demand in a modern
+home, has been associated with the race as far back almost as the home
+itself. At first, of course, it was as a necessity and the development
+from that to a luxury has been an exceedingly slow one extending over
+the years down to the present time.
+
+There are two forms of the open fire—a possible third one, the gas log,
+being a subject on which the less said the better. We have, therefore, a
+choice between the open fireplace designed for wood and the basket grate
+in which to burn coal, preferably cannel coal. This latter fuel is not
+nearly so well known in this country as in England where the scarcity of
+wood necessarily makes coal the more commonly used fuel. With our own
+abundance of wood, however, there will perhaps be little hesitancy in
+choosing the open fireplace rather than the basket grate for coal,
+although in certain cases, for example an apartment where the flue has
+been built too small, or in a house where an available chimney offers
+only a small flue area for fireplace use, the basket grate will prove a
+welcome solution of the problem. Of course there is no excuse whatever
+for building a modern home with a chimney too small for the sort of
+fireplace you want, but where the chimney has already been built without
+this provision it may possibly be found that a small terra cotta flue
+lining may be inserted in the larger flue without seriously damaging the
+latter’s power of draft. In that event the addition of a basket grate
+fireplace to an old house would be an interesting possibility.
+
+However fully we may appreciate the desirability of some sort of
+fireplace, there seems to be a rather widespread impression that the
+attainment is largely a matter of chance. Too many home-builders have
+instructed their architects to provide a fireplace or two in the fond
+hope that the matter was then practically closed—a mere matter of time
+until they might be sitting before the fire’s cheerful glow. Too
+frequently the result has been a disappointment when the first few
+trials introduced into the room more smoke than heat or cheer. The
+reason for this is that there is a scientific basis for fireplace
+building which is frequently ignored absolutely by an over-confident and
+stupid mason. Where the work of building the home has been entrusted to
+an architect’s hands the latter usually appreciates the fact that the
+building of the fireplaces is liable more than any other part of the
+house to be taken into the mason’s own hands with, if he is not watched,
+disastrous results. Undoubtedly every mason would resent most
+strongly any insinuation as to his lack of knowledge regarding fireplace
+construction. Each mason not only thinks that he knows how a fireplace
+should be built, but it is almost as general a rule that he feels that
+his particular method is the only correct one.
+
+    [Illustration: One of the best forms of the basket grate in
+    brass. The splayed sides send out more heat]
+
+    [Illustration: A modern English fire corner. Facing and hearth
+    have been worked out in a rather startling contrast of tiles]
+
+
+In view of this it might be well for any man building his own home to
+give some attention to the matter of his fireplaces, to insist on
+knowing how they are designed and to follow their construction
+throughout so that there is no chance for a blunder; and this chance is
+not so slight as might be supposed. In a house in which the author had
+carefully shown every detail of construction in the drawings, it was
+found when the building was nearly completed that the cast-iron throat
+flues, which ordinarily prevent any possible mistake of construction on
+the mason’s part, had been put in reversed and it was necessary to tear
+down the whole face of the chimney breast in each case to replace them
+properly.
+
+The matter of construction is not at all a complicated affair, as the
+next chapter will aim to show.
+
+
+
+
+                             CONSTRUCTION
+
+
+The chief difficulty in attaining a successful fireplace design does not
+lie in securing an abundant draft. In fact it is an easy matter to make
+a fireplace draw if the flue is large enough and the opening from the
+fire chamber into the flue unobstructed. There will never be any
+question of getting a roaring blaze the moment the fire is lighted.
+
+This is, in a way, the type of fireplace that our Colonial ancestors
+built—great cavernous openings and generous flues, with the result that
+the more wood was piled upon the blaze the more they blistered their
+toes and at the same time chilled their backs. For it is evident that
+when we secure such a strong, unobstructed current of hot air up the
+chimney, enough cool air to take its place must be drawn into the room
+through every opening and crevice. The result is a mighty draft that
+rushes past those unfortunate enough to be sitting about the fire and
+carries rapidly up the chimney almost all of the heat of combustion.
+
+In the fireplace of our Colonial ancestors probably ninety per cent. of
+the heat was entirely lost, being carried up the chimney. However, cord
+wood was then to be had for the cutting.
+
+We want a different sort of a fire in these days—one that will burn
+with a steady, constant blaze or glow, conserving most of its heat,
+which the back and sides of the fire chamber will reflect out into the
+room.
+
+Such a fireplace will not necessarily be a large one. It is amusing to
+hear how universally the demand goes up for large fireplaces—“great
+big fellows that will burn full cord wood.” It is hard to see just why
+this is. It may be based on the assumption that if a small fireplace is
+desirable a large one is more so. This is a fallacy that the architect
+and fireplace builder find it hard to dispel. There is no objection
+whatever to a large fireplace in a summer camp or informal shack of that
+sort. In fact a small one would in such a place be ridiculous, but when
+we come to our year-round living-room or dining-room or den, where the
+walls of the room are tight and the whole atmosphere quieter and more
+restrained, a large fireplace would be distinctly a disturbing element.
+Such a room as this, unless very poorly built, would not permit the
+in-take of sufficient air for the draft of a big fireplace, whereas in
+our slab cabin or log bungalow the conditions are quite different.
+
+    [Illustration: A section through the fireplace and chimney. The
+    broad cross-hatching represents brickwork]
+
+For the ordinary room, therefore, a fair average size for the fireplace
+opening is three feet in width by two and a half feet high, with a depth
+half the width. From such a fireplace it is possible to get a maximum of
+heat with a minimum of draft.
+
+There are two vital principles that should be observed in the design of
+any fireplace. One of these is the relation between the size of the
+opening into the room and the size of the flue itself. A cross-section
+of the flue—which incidentally should be kept the same throughout its
+extent—should be one-tenth of the area of the opening into the room.
+The second vital consideration is the introduction of what are known as
+a “smoke shelf” and a “smoke chamber.” The reason for constructing a
+fireplace with these two features will appear more readily by reference
+to the diagram. This is drawn to show that when a fire is kindled on the
+hearth the warm air current, which is generated immediately, begins to
+rise through the throat (the opening between the fire chamber and the
+smoke chamber) and at once induces a down-draft of cold air. If the back
+of the fireplace were on the same continuous plane with the rear side of
+the chimney flue, this downward current of cold air would strike
+directly upon the fire itself and force smoke out into the room. The
+smoke shelf is built just where it will prevent this action. The
+sectional diagram does not perhaps make quite clear the shape of this
+smoke chamber, but the accompanying perspective outline sketch will
+indicate the fact that the throat and the smoke chamber at the bottom
+must extend across the full width of the fire chamber. This width in
+the smoke chamber immediately diminishes in rising until it joins the
+flue at the flue’s own area.
+
+The sectional diagram indicates a cast-iron damper built in the throat.
+This is not necessary, for it contributes nothing to the efficiency of
+the fire itself. Its one great advantage is that by furnishing the mason
+with an unalterable form, it forces him to build the throat properly
+rather than in one of the wrong ways that his own judgment might
+dictate. Such a cast-iron damper also forms a support for the flat arch
+of brick over the opening if bricks are used. If the damper is not built
+in, it is necessary to use an iron supporting bar to carry this flat
+arch. Then too, in case the damper is not used, there is lost the
+advantage of being able quite readily to close the throat entirely,
+which is highly desirable in the summertime and frequently in the winter
+when the fireplace is acting too strenuously as a ventilator. If the
+cast-iron throat is not used, therefore, it will be well to lay an iron
+plate on the smoke shelf in such a way that it could be drawn forward
+across the opening to close it.
+
+    [Illustration: Perspective view of the fireplace, showing the
+    shape of the various parts as built without a cast-iron throat
+    damper]
+
+There are other types of dampers, most of them patented and all of them
+aiming to provide an adjustable opening in the throat in some way. One
+or two of these have a knob or handle projecting through the brickwork
+of the arch, permitting the convenient adjustment of the damper from
+outside. As a general principle, however, it is well to choose the
+simplest possible device that will secure the desired result.
+
+The terra cotta flue lining which is shown in the sectional diagram is
+not absolutely necessary, of course, as it is a rather modern
+introduction and unnumbered fireplaces have served their purpose without
+it. There is no question, however, regarding its worth, for it provides
+a flue with smooth, regular sides that will not clog nearly so readily
+as an ordinary brick flue. Besides that, it has the advantage of
+permitting a thinner wall for the chimney. It is dangerous to build a
+chimney with a single four-inch thickness of brick between the flue and
+whatever may adjoin the chimney. Of course no wood should be allowed to
+come within an inch or two of the brickwork in any event, but with a
+single thickness of brick, unlined, there is always the danger that the
+mortar will crumble from a joint and leave an opening through which it
+would be an easy matter for sparks or flame to do considerable damage.
+The introduction of a flue lining, however, into the chimney built in
+this way makes it entirely safe, provided the joints between sections of
+flue lining are carefully filled and made smooth with cement mortar.
+
+The sectional diagram, it will be noticed, indicates a difference
+between the main back wall of the chimney, eight inches thick, and the
+brickwork laid inside the fire chamber to form the hearth and the back.
+The reason for this separation is that the rough brickwork of the
+chimney is always laid first as simply as possible, leaving the fire
+chamber with its sloping back and sides and the hearth to be filled in
+later with a better grade of brick or perhaps another kind. Frequently,
+also, tile will be combined with the brick finish as a hearth or facing.
+
+    [Illustration: A cross-section showing the construction of a
+    large stone fireplace with slightly arched opening]
+
+A support for the hearth is usually obtained as indicated—by bringing
+what is called a “row-lock” or “trimmer” arch between the foundation
+masonry of the chimney and a pair of floor joists set out at the proper
+distance, depending upon the desired width of the hearth. While this is
+the customary method, occasionally a support is secured in some other
+way, such as corbeling out from the masonry foundation, or by extending
+two short projections of this masonry from the bottom up at either end
+of the hearth and throwing an arch across between these. Upon a bed of
+cement the hearth bricks themselves are laid, usually flush with the
+floor, although occasionally enough higher to permit a beveled molding
+strip to cover the joint between brick and floor more closely. In some
+cases the hearth itself is raised the full thickness of a brick above
+the floor, as in one of the photographic illustrations shown.
+
+The width of the hearth is ordinarily made about sixteen or eighteen
+inches beyond the face of the opening with the average size fireplace,
+twenty inches or even more with larger ones. This width should be
+increased, of course, if the opening is made considerably larger. The
+question of materials for the hearth and facing will be discussed in the
+next chapter.
+
+The chimney itself should extend at least a foot or two above any nearby
+roof ridge and it should work without any cowl, whirligig or other
+device of that type on the top. There is no great objection to having
+the opening a horizontal one at the top of the chimney, although in that
+case if the flue is nearly straight throughout its course, some rain
+will find its way down to the hearth in a hard storm. In most cases
+there is enough bend in the flue to prevent this, and if not it may be
+avoided by covering the top of the chimney with a stone and having the
+openings vertical ones on all four sides just under this.
+
+All of the brickwork throughout chimney and fireplace should be laid in
+first-class cement mortar which consists of one part Portland cement to
+three parts clean, sharp sand. Although lime mortar was used in all
+brickwork up to recent years, it is not durable, particularly in the
+vicinity of heat.
+
+
+
+
+                        MISCELLANEOUS ODD FORMS
+
+
+There are many unusual forms of fireplace with which we are not
+particularly concerned. For example, one sees occasionally an opening
+shaped like an inverted heart or like an ace of spades. It is possible
+to make a fireplace of this kind work satisfactorily, but it is by no
+means certain that this result can be accomplished at the first trial
+nor that the fire will continue to work properly under all conditions.
+It is safer always to adhere to the established type of rectangular
+opening, or to depart from this only to the extent of having the top an
+arch of large radius. Whenever the top is permitted to vary more than a
+slight extent from the horizontal there is the danger of having the
+smoke escape into the room at the top.
+
+    [Illustration: The inglenook seldom fails as a dispenser of home
+    cheer. Frequently the seats are placed too close to the fire]
+
+There is one other type that deserves special mention and that is the
+double fireplace, where two openings in adjacent rooms are served by a
+single flue between them. The only way in which this affects the two
+vital principles mentioned above is that the cross-section area of the
+flue should be one-tenth of the combined areas of the openings. The
+throat will in this case be in the middle of the chimney with the smoke
+shelf on either side of it. It is essential in a fireplace of this kind
+that there be no disturbing draft tending to pass through the opening
+from one room to the other.
+
+Still another type which is even more rarely seen is the open fire in
+the middle of a room, such as may be desired occasionally in the
+lounging room of a large club. Such an apparent anomaly could be
+secured by suspending a metal flue and hood from the roof, so that the
+lower edge of the truncated pyramidal form at the bottom would form the
+upper side of the fireplace “opening” at a convenient height above the
+hearth of brick, stone, tile or concrete. It is conceivable that an
+effective and thoroughly practical fireplace could be thus devised,
+having the flue and hood of wrought iron or copper, suspended and
+steadied by chains or bars from the ceiling and surrounding walls. In
+such a form the same principle of a fixed ratio between opening (here
+the entire perimeter of the hood multiplied by the distance above the
+hearth) and cross-section of flue would have to be observed, and here
+also it would be well to provide as fully as possible against the
+presence of disturbing drafts.
+
+
+
+
+                          FACINGS AND MANTELS
+
+
+There is not a particularly wide choice of materials available for the
+finish of the hearth and fireplace. Stone, brick, cement and tile
+exhaust the possibilities, although with combinations of these we have
+all the variety that we could wish.
+
+Stone is suitable only in certain environments—the informal shack or
+log cabin chiefly, though of course it is impossible to make any hard
+and fast rule in the matter.
+
+Brick is almost never out of place. Perhaps it is the association with
+the fireplaces that have been built by our fathers and grandfathers, or
+perhaps it is the inherent worth and fitness of the material itself
+that puts it forward as a first choice. Undoubtedly the practical
+consideration that it is easier and more economical to build has
+something to do with the matter.
+
+Concrete is a newcomer in the field of fireplace facing and as yet it
+cannot be said to have shown any particular reason why it should
+displace the other materials. With the ordinary heat developed in an
+open fire of wood there is no likelihood of cracking the concrete facing
+if the material has been properly mixed and applied, although there
+seems to be a vague impression that this might be a real danger. The
+color of concrete gives it no particular recommendation, for it is one
+that remains unchanged by fire, though not unstained by smoke. Brick, on
+the other hand, and tile, have the very closest possible association
+with fire in the making, which gives them a peculiar fitness for this
+purpose.
+
+    [Illustration: Caen stone or its clever representation in cement
+    serves well for the more formal type of mantel and facing]
+
+Tile, the last of the four materials, gives more latitude in design than
+any of the others, sometimes too much latitude we feel. If
+understandingly used, nothing could be more appropriate and attractive,
+but tile has been used so carelessly that somehow we have a feeling that
+the tiled fireplace is for show rather than for use. In any case, there
+is no question whatever regarding the unfitness of the glazed tiles
+which have made horrors of thousands of pseudo fireplace openings. It is
+only the mat-glazed or unglazed tiles that have any right to be used in
+such a place.
+
+Since this little volume has for its subject the fireplace rather than
+the mantel, little need be said regarding the latter outward form,
+though there is no doubt that a whole book on the subject might
+profitably be written. To touch upon the subject as lightly as space
+will permit, we can probably do no better than to suggest the obvious
+type of mantel for one or two of the more common architectural styles,
+and recommend that in other styles the architect be allowed sufficient
+latitude in design and expense to distinguish this important feature of
+hall, living-room, dining-room or library with the characteristics of
+the style he has worked out for the house itself.
+
+The modern home along Colonial lines is perhaps the commonest problem,
+and incidentally the easiest, for the old models of delicately detailed
+white-painted wood mantels are so well known and so universally admired
+that modern reproductions along good lines and reasonable cost are
+easily obtained.
+
+For the English plaster or half-timber house the architect will
+doubtless design a special mantel, in scale and in harmony with the dark
+paneling and other architectural woodwork, probably with a paneled
+over-mantel if the cost is not too rigorously held down.
+
+In a house which breaks away from the historic architectural styles, as
+so many of the stucco buildings of the day do, the mantel treatment
+offers particularly interesting possibilities. Frequently the mantel is
+done away with entirely and the chimney breast treated independently as
+a whole.
+
+With the very informal type of summer home where a rough stone for
+facing and chimney is employed, the mantel treatment can hardly be kept
+too simple and unobtrusive in its rugged strength. A heavy log, planed
+to a smooth top surface and resting on two projecting stone brackets,
+is frequently used with good effect. The chimney breast may be stepped
+back at the shelf height to form a narrow stone ledge, or the breast
+left without any shelf. Many simple variations with the informal brick
+chimney breast will occur to everyone. In general, with these summer
+shacks or bungalows, the fireplace is the chief architectural feature of
+the living-room and for that reason will stand a moderate amount of
+embellishment, but this latter should take the form of a slightly better
+finish of the materials used throughout the room rather than the
+introduction of more elaborate and costly ones.
+
+    [Illustration: A fireplace and chimney breast of field stone,
+    chosen with care and laid with more than average skill]
+
+
+
+
+                        MENDING POOR FIREPLACES
+
+
+It is well enough to say just how a fireplace should be built so that it
+will work satisfactorily, but that does not go far in helping the man
+who has a fireplace that will not work. Frequently it is possible
+without any very great expense and trouble to correct a fireplace that
+has been improperly built. If one has in mind a clear comprehension of
+the few elementary principles of fireplace construction it will usually
+be an easy matter to determine the reason why a fireplace smokes or
+fails to draw.
+
+The cross-section area of the flue is likely to prove the most common
+difficulty. Usually this cannot be seen from inside the fireplace,
+because of the narrow throat and the smoke chamber which in some form
+may be above the shelf. If, therefore, the apparent essentials—such as
+shape of opening, narrow throat across the whole width, and preferably
+the slanting back—have been followed out it would be well to determine
+the area of the flue itself. To do this it will be necessary to reach
+the top of the chimney and, by lowering a weight on a line, find which
+flue leads to the fireplace in question. Its area at the top will in all
+probability be its area throughout. If the flue happens to be the only
+one in that particular chimney it may sometimes be determined more
+easily by counting the bricks in its two horizontal directions and in
+this way estimating what would probably be the inside flue. This
+conclusion is by no means sure, however, since the chimney may be built
+with eight-inch walls or it may be simply a four-inch wall with the
+flue lining. To one with a knowledge of bricklaying, however, the way in
+which the chimney is laid up will usually indicate the size of the flue.
+
+Having determined the size of the fireplace opening and the
+cross-section area of the flue itself, it will in many cases be found
+that the latter is too small for the former. The easiest way to remedy
+this difficulty naturally would be to decrease the size of the opening
+in the face of the fireplace. In order to check up the diagnosis,
+however, it would be well to fit a pair of thin boards to wedge fairly
+tightly into the opening at the top, one of which boards could be drawn
+down past the other one so that the fireplace opening may be decreased
+anywhere from six to twelve inches in height—using two six-inch boards.
+By testing the fireplace in action in this way it will be readily
+determined by what amount the opening must be decreased. The boards
+then being removed, a wrought-iron curtain or decorative projecting hood
+of wrought iron or copper may be fitted permanently to the front.
+
+It is possible, however, that the opening of the fireplace and the flue
+area are properly related, in which case it may be found that the
+trouble is due to the lack of a narrow throat and smoke shelf. This too
+could be constructed in the fireplace without disturbing anything
+outside, such as the mantel or chimney breast, unless the fireplace is
+not large enough to permit the addition of four inches of brick at the
+back. If it is not, it will be well to examine carefully the thickness
+of the wall at the back of the fireplace and if this is sufficient, part
+of it could be taken away where the slope of the back joins the upright
+wall—about a foot above the hearth surface—and the sloping back built
+in from there up to form the throat. Or, to make perfectly sure of the
+result, the mantel itself could be removed—this is usually merely
+nailed to the plaster—and enough of the chimney breast taken down to
+permit the introduction of a cast-iron throat damper.
+
+
+
+
+                         FIREPLACE ACCESSORIES
+
+
+Just as a turkey dinner depends largely for its success upon the
+“fixin’s,” so the fireplace is in itself incomplete without its andirons
+and tools. To begin with the most nearly indispensable appurtenances, we
+must name the andirons—or, if the fuel is to be coal, then the basket
+grate. I have wondered sometimes why the philosophers have not hit upon
+the andiron as a particularly fitting subject for pleasurable
+rumination. There are so few things which combine to such a degree the
+purely utilitarian with the eminently decorative qualities. Most things
+which do combine the two in any real measure have been developed on the
+side of one at the expense of the other quality. Take man’s dress coat,
+for example, the cut-away front of which, with the two buttons at the
+back, was designed to permit the gentleman to loop the skirts up to his
+waist when he mounted his horse. Or, take the modern lighting fixture
+with its little pan still waiting to catch the drip of the tallow
+beneath the flame, which has long since been displaced by gas tip or
+incandescent filament. How few things there are, after all, which ages
+ago—probably through a long evolution—were designed to meet a real
+need in the best possible manner and which still meet that need and
+combine true beauty with their usefulness. The wrought-iron shoe of a
+horse occurs to us, perhaps a ship’s anchor, a string-bow or an axe
+helve.
+
+Some support is needed to raise the fuel so that the air may find a
+clear passage under and through it to the flames, and nothing could well
+be devised to serve the purpose better than the pair of horizontal
+wrought bars, each with its single rear foot and its steadying front,
+the upper continuation of which serves to hold the burning logs in
+place.
+
+One is not likely to go wrong in making a choice of andirons for any
+given type of fireplace. The simply turned brass patterns belong so
+obviously to the Colonial brick opening with its surrounding white
+woodwork; the rougher wrought-iron types are so evidently at home in the
+craftsman fireplace or the rough opening of stonework, that misfits are
+hardly possible.
+
+Fortunately the old brass andirons of Colonial days have proven
+themselves fitted to survive, and many of them are still to be found in
+old cobwebby attics or in the more accessible shop of the dealer in
+antiques. One of these confided to me his way of distinguishing the
+really old andirons from artificially aged reproductions: the old ones
+have the turned brass of the front post held in place by a wrought-iron
+bar that attaches to the horizontal member by a screw thread on the bar
+itself; on the modern examples this upright bar is drilled with a
+threaded hole into which an ordinary short screw engages through a hole
+in the horizontal member.
+
+    [Illustration: The good old dependable Colonial type, with its
+    simple brick facing framed by the delicately detailed white wood
+    mantel]
+
+Next after the andirons in importance are the tools—the three most
+nearly essential ones being the poker, tongs and shovel. There is no
+need of saying that these should harmonize with the andirons and
+preferably be of brass if they are of brass; wrought iron if the
+andirons are of wrought iron. There are two ways of taking care of
+them—the ordinary method of using a stand which, if the tools are
+bought together, will probably come with them; or in some of the
+fireplace types where the whole chimney breast is of brick, concrete or
+stone, sometimes a combination of three or more hooks is wrought in the
+same metal as the tools and fixed securely in the chimney breast at the
+side of the opening.
+
+A brush for the hearth, although not so frequently seen, is exceedingly
+useful in sweeping back the ashes and small embers. Then there is the
+time-honored bellows, now hardly more than an ornament, for with a
+scientifically built fireplace it should never need to be called into
+action.
+
+A screen of some sort comes nearer to being classed with the necessities
+than with the merely decorative accessories, for it is hardly safe to
+leave a fire or even the smoldering embers without some protection
+against the damage that is so quickly caused by sparks. The usual type
+of screen is the woven wire one in several forms. Probably the most
+convenient type is that made up of a number of flat sections which fold
+upon one another into a compact mass which will not be in the way when
+not in use. In recent years, however, there is another sort of screen
+that is coming to be regarded with very high favor and that is the
+screen made up of glass in combination with other materials. There is
+the simple French screen of glass panes in a gilded frame, and there are
+wonderful possibilities for the employment of the craftsman’s skill in
+combining with plain or lightly tinted glass more decorative features in
+the way of stained glass and leading or in the combination of glass and
+metals.
+
+The design of a fire screen depends, of course, on the purpose it is
+intended to serve. If it is desired to secure a screen that will cut off
+the heat but not the light of the fire, the craftsman will work with
+larger areas of clear glass. On the other hand, it may be felt desirable
+to make a nearly opaque screen to cut off both light and heat. These, of
+course, are usually small rectangles on some sort of a pedestal and are
+not intended to take the place of spark screens.
+
+A wood receptacle of some form is a convenient accessory, as one will
+avoid the task of carrying fuel up from the cellar or in from the
+woodpile whenever a fire is desired. There is a broad field from which
+to choose—brass-bound boxes of many sizes and forms, sturdy baskets and
+the metal wood baskets which are made for holding the logs themselves.
+There are those who prefer not to encumber the vicinity of the
+fireplace with these rather bulky receptacles, but who find it
+convenient to have a box built in near by in the form of a window-seat
+or perhaps as a part of built-in bookcases. Two or three houses that I
+have known had a very simple rough dumbwaiter running from the cellar up
+into a window-seat. This could be loaded with fuel, hoisted into
+position and locked there until the fuel was needed.
+
+There are two other fireplace accessories that we must not overlook, and
+these are the crane and the trivet. The crane is a very picturesque
+feature in a fireplace that is large enough to hold it comfortably, but
+it does seem unfortunate that in a great many fireplaces the crane is
+dragged in with the idea of making it a decorative feature but without
+any expectation of putting it to practical use. There are
+fireplaces—in a summer camp, for example—where a crane could be put to
+good use. Used elsewhere it is too often merely an affectation.
+
+The trivet is not nearly so well known as the crane and yet it might be
+put to use in a modern fireplace much more frequently. In England it is
+found in various ingenious forms, most of which show, however, some form
+of low stool which is stood upon the hearth, as near as may be
+convenient to the fire, to keep warm a teakettle or perhaps even a plate
+of toast. There are some rather interesting antique brass trivets to be
+found in many of the larger antique shops.
+
+
+
+
+                           BUILDING THE FIRE
+
+
+I have no doubt that the majority of the readers who have patiently
+found their way thus far through this little book will feel like closing
+it with a sigh of impatience at the sight of the chapter heading above.
+“Who doesn’t know how to build a wood fire? We might as well seek
+instruction as to the most approved method of striking a match!” But if
+you will bear with me for a moment I would say most emphatically that as
+a matter of fact very few people really do know how to build a fire. It
+is easy enough to assemble a bunch of newspapers, twigs, kindling and
+logs so that it is possible to _start_ a fire, but perhaps you have
+noticed that while many fires are kindled few burn out. If you are
+seeking for the greatest amount of comfort and enjoyment from your wood
+fire you will secure it only by sitting at the feet of that greatest of
+all teachers, experience, or perhaps more quickly by experimenting a bit
+with one or two of the simple expedients which I shall try to show are
+based on the wood fire’s way of working. While there are those who would
+not for worlds give up the pleasure of tinkering with the tongs and
+poker while the fire burns, it will perhaps not detract from this
+enjoyment if the tinkering is not actually the result of necessity to
+keep the logs burning. Fire-mending is a delightful recreation only when
+it is not imposed upon us by becoming an alternative to having the
+glowing embers become discouraged and give up the fight.
+
+    [Illustration: There is a splendid opportunity for home
+    craftsmanship of a high order in making the copper hood for an
+    example of this type]
+
+First of all, there is the need of having fuel that is really dry. It
+is not essential that the woodpile be kept indoors, but it should at
+least have shelter above it and on three sides. The woodsheds of New
+England farmhouses offer a practical and efficient solution of the
+problem. Usually you will find these as an extension to the house, a
+shed open only to the south, in which the cord wood is piled neatly to
+the roof with sawn ends to the front. Two long logs are laid on the
+floor or ground, at right angles to the firewood, so as to encourage a
+circulation of air for drying.
+
+In addition to the heavier logs which are cut to fit the fireplace
+opening, there should be almost an equal quantity of twigs, brush and
+smaller pieces, or else split kindling, to serve as starting fuel.
+
+To lay a fire on the hearth, select first a heavy log which should be
+placed close against the back of the fire chamber on the hearth and not
+on the andirons. This is the traditional “backlog.” It will serve
+through several fires and is intended mainly as a protection of the back
+brickwork. Stand the andirons with their rear ends close up against the
+backlog, and if the latter is of the best size its top will be well
+above the horizontal bars of the andirons. Now select a smaller
+log—preferably not a split piece—and lay it across the andirons. If a
+big fire is desired, keep this log—the “forelog”—well to the front,
+just back of the andiron upright posts, leaving plenty of space between
+backlog and forelog for the main body of the fire. The distance between
+these two logs will govern the size of the fire. In this space put a few
+crumpled sheets of newspaper, some of the lighter twigs and small
+branches, and one, two or three logs or split pieces, as may be required
+to fill the space. The diagrams will make clearer this arrangement for a
+small fire or a large one.
+
+    [Illustration: Section showing the arrangement of andirons and
+    wood for a large fire (at the left) and a smaller one]
+
+As the central portion of the fire burns away, keep the forelog pushed
+back against it, unless a less active fire is desired. It is well to
+remember that where one isolated log will not burn, two close together
+probably will, and a pyramid of three will do still better.
+
+Many fireplaces show a tendency to smoke only when first lighted; this
+is probably due to a cold chimney, and can usually be prevented or made
+less objectionable by burning a newspaper just under the throat, thus
+starting the proper action of the up and down drafts.
+
+If it is possible for us to choose between various kinds of wood for our
+open fire fuel there is opened up one of the most interesting phases of
+the whole subject. To most people probably a wood fire is a wood fire,
+whether the logs be of cherry wood, pine, hickory or anything else. For
+the wood fire connoisseur, if we may call him by that name, there is no
+difficulty whatever in telling with a glance at the fire just what wood
+is burned. The crackle and explosive nature of hickory, the hiss of
+pine, the steady flame from cherry, the hot and rapid disintegration of
+sycamore, and the steady and thorough combustion of soft apple wood
+soon become familiar characteristics to those who have the opportunity
+to lay the fire in variety. Then there is, of course, the fascination
+and the weird coloring in a driftwood fire—most spectacular of all but
+unfortunately denied to most of us.
+
+    [Illustration: A simple and exceedingly effective recessed
+    design in brick and rough plaster. The hearth is raised above
+    the floor]
+
+Finally, the most important factor of all in the management of a wood
+fire is an ample bed of ashes for its foundation. It is impossible for
+anyone who has not actually tried fires both ways to appreciate the
+immense advantage that a bed of wood ashes gives. It unquestionably
+doubles the fire’s efficiency in throwing heat out into the room, it
+halves the care and attention needed to keep the fire burning, and it
+increases beyond measure the beauty of a wood fire, when it is nearing
+its end, by rekindling itself with the embers and keeping alive for a
+long time the quiet, dull red glow. Stop your ears to the importunities
+of the over-zealous housekeeper and steel yourself against the pricks of
+the conscience of cleanliness. If need be, fight for the retention of
+that bed of ashes. You can scarcely get it too large or too deep. The
+accumulation of two years is a priceless treasure. One of my own
+fireplaces has a bank that has to be depleted about twice a year to make
+room for the fire. A peck or two of the fine white powder is then
+carried out to bring joy to the rose garden.
+
+To one who loves a wood fire and knows its possibilities the mention of
+such a thing as an ash-drop is as a red flag to a bull. Peace be to the
+ashes of the man who invented this easy method of robbing the hearth of
+half its charm. May he be forgiven it.
+
+
+
+
+                                 _THE
+                            HOUSE & GARDEN
+                                MAKING
+                                BOOKS_
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Fireplace_ is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis
+Court_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making Paths and Driveways_; _Making a
+Poultry House_; _Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making
+Built-in Furniture_; _Making a Rock Garden_; _Making a Garden to Bloom
+this Year_; _Making a Garden of Perennials_; _Making the Grounds
+Attractive with Shrubbery_; _Making a Bulb Garden_, _Making a Garage_,
+_Making and Furnishing Outdoor Rooms and Porches_; with others to be
+announced later.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Fireplace, by Henry H. Saylor
+
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Fireplace, by Henry H. Saylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Fireplace
+
+Author: Henry H. Saylor
+
+Release Date: September 19, 2008 [EBook #26670]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A FIREPLACE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Markus Brenner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
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+</pre>
+
+
+<table class="title" summary="title page">
+<tr><td colspan="3"><h1><span style="letter-spacing: 0.40ex">MAKING A</span><br />
+<span style="letter-spacing: 0.25ex">FIREPLACE</span></h1></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="3"><p class="author"><i>By</i> HENRY H. SAYLOR</p>
+<p class="details">AUTHOR OF<br />
+BUNGALOWS, MAKING A ROSE GARDEN, ETC.</p>
+</td></tr>
+
+<tr><td style="width: 30%"></td><td style="width: 40%; padding-top: 1.5em; padding-bottom: 6.5em"><div class="figcenter" style="width: 53px;">
+<a href="images/illu_logo.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_logo_th.jpg" width="53" height="54" alt="" title="" /></a>
+</div></td><td style="width: 30%"></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="3">
+<p class="publisher"><small>NEW YORK</small><br />
+McBRIDE, NAST &amp; COMPANY<br />
+<small>1913</small></p></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<p class="copyright">
+Copyright, 1913, by<br />
+<span class="smcap">McBride, Nast &amp; Co.</span></p>
+
+<p class="copyright" style="margin-top: 5em">Published, January, 1913</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 356px;">
+<a name="The_Fireplace_of_Long_Ago" id="The_Fireplace_of_Long_Ago"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_frontispiece.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_frontispiece_th.jpg" width="356" height="249" alt="The Fireplace of Long Ago" title="The Fireplace of Long Ago" /></a>
+<span class="caption">The fireplace of long ago, made large enough to accommodate
+most of the kitchen&#8217;s pots and pans beside the fire</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS</h2>
+
+
+<table class="toc" summary="contents">
+<tr style="line-height: 100%"><td></td><td class="onpage">PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#INTRODUCTION">Introduction</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#CONSTRUCTION">Construction</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#MISCELLANEOUS_ODD_FORMS">Miscellaneous Odd Forms</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#FACINGS_AND_MANTELS">Facings and Mantels</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#MENDING_POOR_FIREPLACES">Mending Poor Fireplaces</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#FIREPLACE_ACCESSORIES">Fireplace Accessories</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#BUILDING_THE_FIRE">Building the Fire</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_45">45</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<h2><a name="THE_ILLUSTRATIONS" id="THE_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>THE ILLUSTRATIONS</h2>
+
+
+
+
+<table class="toc" summary="illustrations">
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#The_Fireplace_of_Long_Ago">The Fireplace of Long Ago</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><i>Frontispiece</i></td></tr>
+<tr><td></td><td class="onpage" style="line-height: 100%">FACING<br />PAGE</td></tr>
+<tr><td style="padding-top: 0em"><span class="smcap"><a href="#An_English_Basket_Grate_in_Brass">An English Basket Grate in Brass</a></span></td><td class="onpage" style="padding-top: 0em"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#A_Modern_English_Fire_Corner_in_Contrasting_Tiles">A Modern English Fire Corner in Contrasting Tiles</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_4">4</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#An_Inglenook_with_Stone_Hearth">An Inglenook with Stone Hearth</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#Caen_Stone_Mantel_for_the_Formal_Type">Caen Stone Mantel for the Formal Type</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#An_Informal_Fireplace_in_Field_Stone">An Informal Fireplace in Field Stone</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_30">30</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#The_Modern_Colonial_Type">The Modern Colonial Type with Brick Facing and White Wood Mantel</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#A_Craftsman_Type">A Craftsman Type in Brick with Copper Hood</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_46">46</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td><span class="smcap"><a href="#A_Recessed_Fireplace">A Recessed Fireplace in Brick and Rough Plaster</a></span></td><td class="onpage"><a href="#Page_50">50</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="INTRODUCTION" id="INTRODUCTION"></a>INTRODUCTION</h2>
+
+
+<p>In a book of this kind there is no particular
+need for dwelling at length on the
+desirability of having a fireplace. That
+will be taken for granted. It is enough
+to say that in these days a home can
+scarcely be considered worthy of the name
+if it does not contain at least one hearth.
+There is some inexplicable quality in a
+wood fire that exerts almost a hypnotic
+influence upon those who eagerly gather
+about it. The smoldering glow of the
+logs induces a calm and introspective
+mood that banishes all the trivialities and
+distractions of the day&#8217;s work and gives
+one an opportunity to replenish his store
+of energy for the coming day.</p>
+
+<p>The open fire, unlike most of the comforts
+that we demand in a modern home,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>has been associated with the race as far
+back almost as the home itself. At first,
+of course, it was as a necessity and the
+development from that to a luxury has
+been an exceedingly slow one extending
+over the years down to the present time.</p>
+
+<p>There are two forms of the open fire&mdash;a
+possible third one, the gas log, being a
+subject on which the less said the better.
+We have, therefore, a choice between the
+open fireplace designed for wood and the
+basket grate in which to burn coal, preferably
+cannel coal. This latter fuel is not
+nearly so well known in this country as
+in England where the scarcity of wood
+necessarily makes coal the more commonly
+used fuel. With our own abundance
+of wood, however, there will perhaps
+be little hesitancy in choosing the
+open fireplace rather than the basket
+grate for coal, although in certain cases,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>for example an apartment where the flue
+has been built too small, or in a house
+where an available chimney offers only a
+small flue area for fireplace use, the basket
+grate will prove a welcome solution of
+the problem. Of course there is no excuse
+whatever for building a modern home
+with a chimney too small for the sort of
+fireplace you want, but where the chimney
+has already been built without this provision
+it may possibly be found that a
+small terra cotta flue lining may be inserted
+in the larger flue without seriously
+damaging the latter&#8217;s power of draft. In
+that event the addition of a basket grate
+fireplace to an old house would be an interesting
+possibility.</p>
+
+<p>However fully we may appreciate the
+desirability of some sort of fireplace,
+there seems to be a rather widespread impression
+that the attainment is largely a
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>matter of chance. Too many home-builders
+have instructed their architects
+to provide a fireplace or two in the fond
+hope that the matter was then practically
+closed&mdash;a mere matter of time until they
+might be sitting before the fire&#8217;s cheerful
+glow. Too frequently the result has been
+a disappointment when the first few trials
+introduced into the room more smoke than
+heat or cheer. The reason for this is
+that there is a scientific basis for fireplace
+building which is frequently ignored
+absolutely by an over-confident and stupid
+mason. Where the work of building the
+home has been entrusted to an architect&#8217;s
+hands the latter usually appreciates the
+fact that the building of the fireplaces is
+liable more than any other part of the
+house to be taken into the mason&#8217;s own
+hands with, if he is not watched, disastrous
+results. Undoubtedly every mason
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>would resent most strongly any insinuation
+as to his lack of knowledge regarding
+fireplace construction. Each mason not
+only thinks that he knows how a fireplace
+should be built, but it is almost as general
+a rule that he feels that his particular
+method is the only correct one.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 328px; padding-bottom: 0em">
+<a name="An_English_Basket_Grate_in_Brass" id="An_English_Basket_Grate_in_Brass"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_04a.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_04a_th.jpg" width="328" height="223" alt="An English Basket Grate in Brass" title="An English Basket Grate in Brass" /></a>
+<span class="caption">One of the best forms of the basket grate in brass.
+The splayed sides send out more heat</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 326px;">
+<a name="A_Modern_English_Fire_Corner_in_Contrasting_Tiles" id="A_Modern_English_Fire_Corner_in_Contrasting_Tiles"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_04b.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_04b_th.jpg" width="326" height="222" alt="A Modern English Fire Corner in Contrasting Tiles" title="A Modern English Fire Corner in Contrasting Tiles" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A modern English fire corner. Facing and
+hearth have been worked out in a rather startling
+contrast of tiles</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p>In view of this it might be well for any
+man building his own home to give some
+attention to the matter of his fireplaces,
+to insist on knowing how they are designed
+and to follow their construction
+throughout so that there is no chance for
+a blunder; and this chance is not so slight
+as might be supposed. In a house in
+which the author had carefully shown
+every detail of construction in the drawings,
+it was found when the building was
+nearly completed that the cast-iron throat
+flues, which ordinarily prevent any possible
+mistake of construction on the mason&#8217;s
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>part, had been put in reversed and
+it was necessary to tear down the whole
+face of the chimney breast in each case to
+replace them properly.</p>
+
+<p>The matter of construction is not at all
+a complicated affair, as the next chapter
+will aim to show.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="CONSTRUCTION" id="CONSTRUCTION"></a>CONSTRUCTION</h2>
+
+
+<p class="newsection"><span class="firstword"><span class="dropcap">T</span>he</span> chief difficulty in attaining a successful
+fireplace design does not lie
+in securing an abundant draft. In fact
+it is an easy matter to make a fireplace
+draw if the flue is large enough and the
+opening from the fire chamber into the
+flue unobstructed. There will never be
+any question of getting a roaring blaze
+the moment the fire is lighted.</p>
+
+<p>This is, in a way, the type of fireplace
+that our Colonial ancestors built&mdash;great
+cavernous openings and generous flues,
+with the result that the more wood was
+piled upon the blaze the more they blistered
+their toes and at the same time
+chilled their backs. For it is evident that
+when we secure such a strong, unobstructed
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>current of hot air up the chimney,
+enough cool air to take its place must
+be drawn into the room through every
+opening and crevice. The result is a
+mighty draft that rushes past those unfortunate
+enough to be sitting about the
+fire and carries rapidly up the chimney
+almost all of the heat of combustion.</p>
+
+<p>In the fireplace of our Colonial ancestors
+probably ninety per cent. of the
+heat was entirely lost, being carried up
+the chimney. However, cord wood was
+then to be had for the cutting.</p>
+
+<p>We want a different sort of a fire in
+these days&mdash;one that will burn with a
+steady, constant blaze or glow, conserving
+most of its heat, which the back and sides
+of the fire chamber will reflect out into
+the room.</p>
+
+<p>Such a fireplace will not necessarily be
+a large one. It is amusing to hear how
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>universally the demand goes up for large
+fireplaces&mdash;&#8220;great big fellows that will
+burn full cord wood.&#8221; It is hard to see
+just why this is. It may be based on
+the assumption that if a small fireplace is
+desirable a large one is more so. This
+is a fallacy that the architect and fireplace
+builder find it hard to dispel.
+There is no objection whatever to a large
+fireplace in a summer camp or informal
+shack of that sort. In fact a small one
+would in such a place be ridiculous, but
+when we come to our year-round living-room
+or dining-room or den, where the
+walls of the room are tight and the whole
+atmosphere quieter and more restrained,
+a large fireplace would be distinctly a
+disturbing element. Such a room as this,
+unless very poorly built, would not permit
+the in-take of sufficient air for the
+draft of a big fireplace, whereas in our
+slab cabin or log bungalow the conditions
+are quite different.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 216px;">
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>
+<a href="images/illu_10.jpg">
+<img class="dblborder" src="images/illu_10_th.jpg" width="216" height="389" alt="A section through the fireplace and
+chimney" title="A section through the fireplace and chimney" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A section through the fireplace and
+chimney. The broad cross-hatching represents
+brickwork</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>For the ordinary room, therefore, a
+fair average size for the fireplace opening
+is three feet in width by two and a half
+feet high, with a depth half the width.
+From such a fireplace it is possible to get a
+maximum of heat with a minimum of draft.</p>
+
+<p>There are two vital principles that
+should be observed in the design of any
+fireplace. One of these is the relation between
+the size of the opening into the
+room and the size of the flue itself. A
+cross-section of the flue&mdash;which incidentally
+should be kept the same throughout
+its extent&mdash;should be one-tenth of
+the area of the opening into the room.
+The second vital consideration is the introduction
+of what are known as a
+&#8220;smoke shelf&#8221; and a &#8220;smoke chamber.&#8221;
+The reason for constructing a fireplace
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>with these two features will appear more
+readily by reference to the diagram.
+This is drawn to show that when a fire is
+kindled on the hearth the warm air current,
+which is generated immediately, begins
+to rise through the throat (the opening
+between the fire chamber and the
+smoke chamber) and at once induces a
+down-draft of cold air. If the back of
+the fireplace were on the same continuous
+plane with the rear side of the chimney
+flue, this downward current of cold air
+would strike directly upon the fire itself
+and force smoke out into the room. The
+smoke shelf is built just where it will prevent
+this action. The sectional diagram
+does not perhaps make quite clear the
+shape of this smoke chamber, but the accompanying
+perspective outline sketch
+will indicate the fact that the throat and
+the smoke chamber at the bottom must
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>extend across the full width of the fire
+chamber. This width in the smoke
+chamber immediately diminishes in rising
+until it joins the flue at the flue&#8217;s own
+area.</p>
+
+<p>The sectional diagram indicates a cast-iron
+damper built in the throat. This is
+not necessary, for it contributes nothing
+to the efficiency of the fire itself. Its one
+great advantage is that by furnishing the
+mason with an unalterable form, it forces
+him to build the throat properly rather
+than in one of the wrong ways that his
+own judgment might dictate. Such a
+cast-iron damper also forms a support
+for the flat arch of brick over the opening
+if bricks are used. If the damper is
+not built in, it is necessary to use an iron
+supporting bar to carry this flat arch.
+Then too, in case the damper is not used,
+there is lost the advantage of being able
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>quite readily to close the throat entirely,
+which is highly desirable in the summertime
+and frequently in the winter when
+the fireplace is acting too strenuously as
+a ventilator. If the cast-iron throat is
+not used, therefore, it will be well to lay
+an iron plate on the smoke shelf in such
+a way that it could be drawn forward
+across the opening to close it.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 252px;">
+<a href="images/illu_14.jpg">
+<img class="dblborder" src="images/illu_14_th.jpg" width="252" height="408" alt="Perspective view" title="Perspective view" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Perspective view of the fireplace, showing the
+shape of the various parts as built without a
+cast-iron throat damper</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>There are other types of dampers, most
+of them patented and all of them aiming
+to provide an adjustable opening in the
+throat in some way. One or two of these
+have a knob or handle projecting through
+the brickwork of the arch, permitting the
+convenient adjustment of the damper
+from outside. As a general principle,
+however, it is well to choose the simplest
+possible device that will secure the desired
+result.</p>
+
+<p>The terra cotta flue lining which is
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>shown in the sectional diagram is not absolutely
+necessary, of course, as it is
+a rather modern introduction and unnumbered
+fireplaces have served their purpose
+without it. There is no question, however,
+regarding its worth, for it provides a flue
+with smooth, regular sides that will not
+clog nearly so readily as an ordinary
+brick flue. Besides that, it has the advantage
+of permitting a thinner wall for
+the chimney. It is dangerous to build
+a chimney with a single four-inch thickness
+of brick between the flue and whatever
+may adjoin the chimney. Of course
+no wood should be allowed to come within
+an inch or two of the brickwork in
+any event, but with a single thickness
+of brick, unlined, there is always
+the danger that the mortar will crumble
+from a joint and leave an opening
+through which it would be an easy matter
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>for sparks or flame to do considerable
+damage. The introduction of a flue lining,
+however, into the chimney built in this
+way makes it entirely safe, provided the
+joints between sections of flue lining are
+carefully filled and made smooth with cement
+mortar.</p>
+
+<p>The sectional diagram, it will be noticed,
+indicates a difference between the main
+back wall of the chimney, eight inches
+thick, and the brickwork laid inside the
+fire chamber to form the hearth and the
+back. The reason for this separation is
+that the rough brickwork of the chimney
+is always laid first as simply as possible,
+leaving the fire chamber with its sloping
+back and sides and the hearth to be filled
+in later with a better grade of brick or
+perhaps another kind. Frequently, also,
+tile will be combined with the brick finish
+as a hearth or facing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 257px;">
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>
+<a href="images/illu_18.jpg">
+<img class="border" src="images/illu_18_th.jpg" width="257" height="380" alt="A cross-section" title="A cross-section" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A cross-section showing the construction of a
+large stone fireplace with slightly arched opening</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>A support for the hearth is usually obtained
+as indicated&mdash;by bringing what
+is called a &#8220;row-lock&#8221; or &#8220;trimmer&#8221;
+arch between the foundation masonry of
+the chimney and a pair of floor joists set
+out at the proper distance, depending
+upon the desired width of the hearth.
+While this is the customary method, occasionally
+a support is secured in some
+other way, such as corbeling out from the
+masonry foundation, or by extending two
+short projections of this masonry from
+the bottom up at either end of the hearth
+and throwing an arch across between
+these. Upon a bed of cement the hearth
+bricks themselves are laid, usually flush
+with the floor, although occasionally
+enough higher to permit a beveled molding
+strip to cover the joint between brick and
+floor more closely. In some cases the
+hearth itself is raised the full thickness
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>of a brick above the floor, as in one of
+the photographic illustrations shown.</p>
+
+<p>The width of the hearth is ordinarily
+made about sixteen or eighteen inches beyond
+the face of the opening with the average
+size fireplace, twenty inches or even
+more with larger ones. This width should
+be increased, of course, if the opening is
+made considerably larger. The question
+of materials for the hearth and facing
+will be discussed in the next chapter.</p>
+
+<p>The chimney itself should extend at
+least a foot or two above any nearby roof
+ridge and it should work without any
+cowl, whirligig or other device of that
+type on the top. There is no great objection
+to having the opening a horizontal
+one at the top of the chimney, although
+in that case if the flue is nearly straight
+throughout its course, some rain will find
+its way down to the hearth in a hard
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>storm. In most cases there is enough
+bend in the flue to prevent this, and if not
+it may be avoided by covering the top of
+the chimney with a stone and having the
+openings vertical ones on all four sides
+just under this.</p>
+
+<p>All of the brickwork throughout chimney
+and fireplace should be laid in first-class
+cement mortar which consists of one
+part Portland cement to three parts clean,
+sharp sand. Although lime mortar was
+used in all brickwork up to recent years,
+it is not durable, particularly in the vicinity
+of heat.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="MISCELLANEOUS_ODD_FORMS" id="MISCELLANEOUS_ODD_FORMS"></a>MISCELLANEOUS ODD FORMS</h2>
+
+
+<p class="newsection"><span class="firstword"><span class="dropcap">T</span>here</span> are many unusual forms of
+fireplace with which we are not particularly
+concerned. For example, one
+sees occasionally an opening shaped like
+an inverted heart or like an ace of spades.
+It is possible to make a fireplace of this
+kind work satisfactorily, but it is by no
+means certain that this result can be accomplished
+at the first trial nor that the
+fire will continue to work properly under
+all conditions. It is safer always to adhere
+to the established type of rectangular
+opening, or to depart from this only to
+the extent of having the top an arch of
+large radius. Whenever the top is permitted
+to vary more than a slight extent
+from the horizontal there is the danger of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>having the smoke escape into the room at
+the top.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 335px;">
+<a name="An_Inglenook_with_Stone_Hearth" id="An_Inglenook_with_Stone_Hearth"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_22.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_22_th.jpg" width="335" height="248" alt="An Inglenook with Stone Hearth" title="An Inglenook with Stone Hearth" /></a>
+<span class="caption">The inglenook seldom fails as a dispenser of home cheer.
+Frequently the seats are placed too close to the fire</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There is one other type that deserves
+special mention and that is the double fireplace,
+where two openings in adjacent
+rooms are served by a single flue between
+them. The only way in which this affects
+the two vital principles mentioned above
+is that the cross-section area of the flue
+should be one-tenth of the combined areas
+of the openings. The throat will in this
+case be in the middle of the chimney with
+the smoke shelf on either side of it. It is
+essential in a fireplace of this kind that
+there be no disturbing draft tending to
+pass through the opening from one room
+to the other.</p>
+
+<p>Still another type which is even more
+rarely seen is the open fire in the middle
+of a room, such as may be desired occasionally
+in the lounging room of a large
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>club. Such an apparent anomaly could
+be secured by suspending a metal flue and
+hood from the roof, so that the lower edge
+of the truncated pyramidal form at the
+bottom would form the upper side of the
+fireplace &#8220;opening&#8221; at a convenient
+height above the hearth of brick, stone,
+tile or concrete. It is conceivable that
+an effective and thoroughly practical fireplace
+could be thus devised, having the
+flue and hood of wrought iron or copper,
+suspended and steadied by chains or bars
+from the ceiling and surrounding walls.
+In such a form the same principle of a
+fixed ratio between opening (here the entire
+perimeter of the hood multiplied by
+the distance above the hearth) and cross-section
+of flue would have to be observed,
+and here also it would be well to provide
+as fully as possible against the presence
+of disturbing drafts.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="FACINGS_AND_MANTELS" id="FACINGS_AND_MANTELS"></a>FACINGS AND MANTELS</h2>
+
+
+<p class="newsection"><span class="firstword"><span class="dropcap">T</span>here</span> is not a particularly wide
+choice of materials available for the
+finish of the hearth and fireplace. Stone,
+brick, cement and tile exhaust the possibilities,
+although with combinations of
+these we have all the variety that we could
+wish.</p>
+
+<p>Stone is suitable only in certain environments&mdash;the
+informal shack or log
+cabin chiefly, though of course it is impossible
+to make any hard and fast rule
+in the matter.</p>
+
+<p>Brick is almost never out of place.
+Perhaps it is the association with the fireplaces
+that have been built by our fathers
+and grandfathers, or perhaps it is the inherent
+worth and fitness of the material
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>itself that puts it forward as a first
+choice. Undoubtedly the practical consideration
+that it is easier and more economical
+to build has something to do with
+the matter.</p>
+
+<p>Concrete is a newcomer in the field of
+fireplace facing and as yet it cannot be
+said to have shown any particular reason
+why it should displace the other materials.
+With the ordinary heat developed in
+an open fire of wood there is no likelihood
+of cracking the concrete facing if the material
+has been properly mixed and applied,
+although there seems to be a vague
+impression that this might be a real danger.
+The color of concrete gives it no
+particular recommendation, for it is one
+that remains unchanged by fire, though
+not unstained by smoke. Brick, on the
+other hand, and tile, have the very closest
+possible association with fire in the making,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>which gives them a peculiar fitness
+for this purpose.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 271px;">
+<a name="Caen_Stone_Mantel_for_the_Formal_Type" id="Caen_Stone_Mantel_for_the_Formal_Type"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_26.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_26_th.jpg" width="271" height="360" alt="Caen Stone Mantel for the Formal Type" title="Caen Stone Mantel for the Formal Type" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Caen stone or its clever representation in cement
+serves well for the more formal type of mantel and
+facing</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Tile, the last of the four materials,
+gives more latitude in design than any of
+the others, sometimes too much latitude
+we feel. If understandingly used, nothing
+could be more appropriate and attractive,
+but tile has been used so carelessly
+that somehow we have a feeling that the
+tiled fireplace is for show rather than for
+use. In any case, there is no question
+whatever regarding the unfitness of the
+glazed tiles which have made horrors of
+thousands of pseudo fireplace openings.
+It is only the mat-glazed or unglazed tiles
+that have any right to be used in such a
+place.</p>
+
+<p>Since this little volume has for its subject
+the fireplace rather than the mantel,
+little need be said regarding the latter
+outward form, though there is no doubt
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>that a whole book on the subject might
+profitably be written. To touch upon
+the subject as lightly as space will permit,
+we can probably do no better than to
+suggest the obvious type of mantel for
+one or two of the more common architectural
+styles, and recommend that in other
+styles the architect be allowed sufficient
+latitude in design and expense to distinguish
+this important feature of hall, living-room,
+dining-room or library with the
+characteristics of the style he has worked
+out for the house itself.</p>
+
+<p>The modern home along Colonial lines
+is perhaps the commonest problem, and
+incidentally the easiest, for the old models
+of delicately detailed white-painted wood
+mantels are so well known and so universally
+admired that modern reproductions
+along good lines and reasonable cost are
+easily obtained.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>For the English plaster or half-timber
+house the architect will doubtless design
+a special mantel, in scale and in harmony
+with the dark paneling and other architectural
+woodwork, probably with a paneled
+over-mantel if the cost is not too rigorously
+held down.</p>
+
+<p>In a house which breaks away from the
+historic architectural styles, as so many
+of the stucco buildings of the day do, the
+mantel treatment offers particularly interesting
+possibilities. Frequently the mantel
+is done away with entirely and the
+chimney breast treated independently as
+a whole.</p>
+
+<p>With the very informal type of summer
+home where a rough stone for facing
+and chimney is employed, the mantel treatment
+can hardly be kept too simple and
+unobtrusive in its rugged strength. A
+heavy log, planed to a smooth top surface
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>and resting on two projecting stone
+brackets, is frequently used with good
+effect. The chimney breast may be
+stepped back at the shelf height to form
+a narrow stone ledge, or the breast left
+without any shelf. Many simple variations
+with the informal brick chimney
+breast will occur to everyone. In general,
+with these summer shacks or bungalows,
+the fireplace is the chief architectural
+feature of the living-room and for
+that reason will stand a moderate amount
+of embellishment, but this latter should
+take the form of a slightly better finish
+of the materials used throughout the room
+rather than the introduction of more elaborate
+and costly ones.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 277px;">
+<a name="An_Informal_Fireplace_in_Field_Stone" id="An_Informal_Fireplace_in_Field_Stone"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_30.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_30_th.jpg" width="277" height="422" alt="An Informal Fireplace in Field Stone" title="An Informal Fireplace in Field Stone" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A fireplace and chimney breast of field stone,
+chosen with care and laid with more than average
+skill</span>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="MENDING_POOR_FIREPLACES" id="MENDING_POOR_FIREPLACES"></a>MENDING POOR FIREPLACES</h2>
+
+
+<p class="newsection"><span class="firstword"><span class="dropcap">I</span>t</span> is well enough to say just how a fireplace
+should be built so that it will
+work satisfactorily, but that does not go
+far in helping the man who has a fireplace
+that will not work. Frequently it is possible
+without any very great expense and
+trouble to correct a fireplace that has
+been improperly built. If one has in
+mind a clear comprehension of the few elementary
+principles of fireplace construction
+it will usually be an easy matter to
+determine the reason why a fireplace
+smokes or fails to draw.</p>
+
+<p>The cross-section area of the flue is
+likely to prove the most common difficulty.
+Usually this cannot be seen from
+inside the fireplace, because of the narrow
+throat and the smoke chamber which in
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span>some form may be above the shelf.
+If, therefore, the apparent essentials&mdash;such
+as shape of opening, narrow
+throat across the whole width, and preferably
+the slanting back&mdash;have been followed
+out it would be well to determine
+the area of the flue itself. To do this it
+will be necessary to reach the top of the
+chimney and, by lowering a weight on a
+line, find which flue leads to the fireplace
+in question. Its area at the top will in
+all probability be its area throughout.
+If the flue happens to be the only one in
+that particular chimney it may sometimes
+be determined more easily by counting the
+bricks in its two horizontal directions and
+in this way estimating what would probably
+be the inside flue. This conclusion
+is by no means sure, however, since the
+chimney may be built with eight-inch walls
+or it may be simply a four-inch wall with
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span>the flue lining. To one with a knowledge
+of bricklaying, however, the way in which
+the chimney is laid up will usually indicate
+the size of the flue.</p>
+
+<p>Having determined the size of the fireplace
+opening and the cross-section area
+of the flue itself, it will in many cases be
+found that the latter is too small for the
+former. The easiest way to remedy this
+difficulty naturally would be to decrease
+the size of the opening in the face of the
+fireplace. In order to check up the diagnosis,
+however, it would be well to fit a
+pair of thin boards to wedge fairly
+tightly into the opening at the top, one
+of which boards could be drawn down past
+the other one so that the fireplace opening
+may be decreased anywhere from six
+to twelve inches in height&mdash;using two
+six-inch boards. By testing the fireplace
+in action in this way it will be readily determined
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span>by what amount the opening
+must be decreased. The boards then being
+removed, a wrought-iron curtain or
+decorative projecting hood of wrought
+iron or copper may be fitted permanently
+to the front.</p>
+
+<p>It is possible, however, that the opening
+of the fireplace and the flue area are
+properly related, in which case it may be
+found that the trouble is due to the lack
+of a narrow throat and smoke shelf.
+This too could be constructed in the fireplace
+without disturbing anything outside,
+such as the mantel or chimney breast,
+unless the fireplace is not large enough
+to permit the addition of four inches of
+brick at the back. If it is not, it will be
+well to examine carefully the thickness of
+the wall at the back of the fireplace and
+if this is sufficient, part of it could be
+taken away where the slope of the back
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span>joins the upright wall&mdash;about a foot
+above the hearth surface&mdash;and the sloping
+back built in from there up to form
+the throat. Or, to make perfectly sure
+of the result, the mantel itself could be removed&mdash;this
+is usually merely nailed to
+the plaster&mdash;and enough of the chimney
+breast taken down to permit the introduction
+of a cast-iron throat damper.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="FIREPLACE_ACCESSORIES" id="FIREPLACE_ACCESSORIES"></a>FIREPLACE ACCESSORIES</h2>
+
+
+<p class="newsection"><span class="firstword"><span class="dropcap">J</span>ust</span> as a turkey dinner depends
+largely for its success upon the
+&#8220;fixin&#8217;s,&#8221; so the fireplace is in itself incomplete
+without its andirons and tools.
+To begin with the most nearly indispensable
+appurtenances, we must name the andirons&mdash;or,
+if the fuel is to be coal, then
+the basket grate. I have wondered sometimes
+why the philosophers have not hit
+upon the andiron as a particularly fitting
+subject for pleasurable rumination.
+There are so few things which combine to
+such a degree the purely utilitarian with
+the eminently decorative qualities. Most
+things which do combine the two in any
+real measure have been developed on the
+side of one at the expense of the other
+quality. Take man&#8217;s dress coat, for example,
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span>the cut-away front of which, with
+the two buttons at the back, was designed
+to permit the gentleman to loop the skirts
+up to his waist when he mounted his horse.
+Or, take the modern lighting fixture with
+its little pan still waiting to catch the
+drip of the tallow beneath the flame, which
+has long since been displaced by gas
+tip or incandescent filament. How few
+things there are, after all, which ages ago&mdash;probably
+through a long evolution&mdash;were
+designed to meet a real need in the
+best possible manner and which still meet
+that need and combine true beauty with
+their usefulness. The wrought-iron shoe
+of a horse occurs to us, perhaps a ship&#8217;s
+anchor, a string-bow or an axe helve.</p>
+
+<p>Some support is needed to raise the
+fuel so that the air may find a clear passage
+under and through it to the flames,
+and nothing could well be devised to serve
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>the purpose better than the pair of horizontal
+wrought bars, each with its single
+rear foot and its steadying front, the upper
+continuation of which serves to hold
+the burning logs in place.</p>
+
+<p>One is not likely to go wrong in making
+a choice of andirons for any given type
+of fireplace. The simply turned brass
+patterns belong so obviously to the Colonial
+brick opening with its surrounding
+white woodwork; the rougher wrought-iron
+types are so evidently at home in the
+craftsman fireplace or the rough opening
+of stonework, that misfits are hardly possible.</p>
+
+<p>Fortunately the old brass andirons of
+Colonial days have proven themselves fitted
+to survive, and many of them are still
+to be found in old cobwebby attics or in
+the more accessible shop of the dealer in
+antiques. One of these confided to me his
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span>way of distinguishing the really old andirons
+from artificially aged reproductions:
+the old ones have the turned brass of the
+front post held in place by a wrought-iron
+bar that attaches to the horizontal
+member by a screw thread on the bar itself;
+on the modern examples this upright
+bar is drilled with a threaded hole into
+which an ordinary short screw engages
+through a hole in the horizontal member.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 398px;">
+<a name="The_Modern_Colonial_Type" id="The_Modern_Colonial_Type"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_38.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_38_th.jpg" width="398" height="249" alt="The Modern Colonial Type" title="The Modern Colonial Type" /></a>
+<span class="caption">The good old dependable Colonial type, with its simple brick facing
+framed by the delicately detailed white wood mantel</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Next after the andirons in importance
+are the tools&mdash;the three most nearly essential
+ones being the poker, tongs and
+shovel. There is no need of saying that
+these should harmonize with the andirons
+and preferably be of brass if they are
+of brass; wrought iron if the andirons
+are of wrought iron. There are two
+ways of taking care of them&mdash;the ordinary
+method of using a stand which, if
+the tools are bought together, will probably
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span>come with them; or in some of the
+fireplace types where the whole chimney
+breast is of brick, concrete or stone,
+sometimes a combination of three or more
+hooks is wrought in the same metal as
+the tools and fixed securely in the chimney
+breast at the side of the opening.</p>
+
+<p>A brush for the hearth, although not
+so frequently seen, is exceedingly useful
+in sweeping back the ashes and small embers.
+Then there is the time-honored
+bellows, now hardly more than an ornament,
+for with a scientifically built fireplace
+it should never need to be called
+into action.</p>
+
+<p>A screen of some sort comes nearer to
+being classed with the necessities than
+with the merely decorative accessories,
+for it is hardly safe to leave a fire or
+even the smoldering embers without some
+protection against the damage that is so
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span>quickly caused by sparks. The usual
+type of screen is the woven wire one in
+several forms. Probably the most convenient
+type is that made up of a number
+of flat sections which fold upon one
+another into a compact mass which will
+not be in the way when not in use. In
+recent years, however, there is another
+sort of screen that is coming to be regarded
+with very high favor and that is
+the screen made up of glass in combination
+with other materials. There is the
+simple French screen of glass panes in a
+gilded frame, and there are wonderful
+possibilities for the employment of the
+craftsman&#8217;s skill in combining with plain
+or lightly tinted glass more decorative
+features in the way of stained glass and
+leading or in the combination of glass
+and metals.</p>
+
+<p>The design of a fire screen depends, of
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span>course, on the purpose it is intended to
+serve. If it is desired to secure a screen
+that will cut off the heat but not the light
+of the fire, the craftsman will work with
+larger areas of clear glass. On the other
+hand, it may be felt desirable to make a
+nearly opaque screen to cut off both light
+and heat. These, of course, are usually
+small rectangles on some sort of a pedestal
+and are not intended to take the place
+of spark screens.</p>
+
+<p>A wood receptacle of some form is a
+convenient accessory, as one will avoid
+the task of carrying fuel up from the cellar
+or in from the woodpile whenever a
+fire is desired. There is a broad field
+from which to choose&mdash;brass-bound
+boxes of many sizes and forms, sturdy
+baskets and the metal wood baskets which
+are made for holding the logs themselves.
+There are those who prefer not to encumber
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span>the vicinity of the fireplace with
+these rather bulky receptacles, but who
+find it convenient to have a box built in
+near by in the form of a window-seat or
+perhaps as a part of built-in bookcases.
+Two or three houses that I have known
+had a very simple rough dumbwaiter running
+from the cellar up into a window-seat.
+This could be loaded with fuel,
+hoisted into position and locked there until
+the fuel was needed.</p>
+
+<p>There are two other fireplace accessories
+that we must not overlook, and these
+are the crane and the trivet. The crane
+is a very picturesque feature in a fireplace
+that is large enough to hold it
+comfortably, but it does seem unfortunate
+that in a great many fireplaces the
+crane is dragged in with the idea of making
+it a decorative feature but without
+any expectation of putting it to practical
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>use. There are fireplaces&mdash;in a
+summer camp, for example&mdash;where a
+crane could be put to good use. Used
+elsewhere it is too often merely an affectation.</p>
+
+<p>The trivet is not nearly so well known
+as the crane and yet it might be put to
+use in a modern fireplace much more frequently.
+In England it is found in various
+ingenious forms, most of which show,
+however, some form of low stool which is
+stood upon the hearth, as near as may be
+convenient to the fire, to keep warm a
+teakettle or perhaps even a plate of toast.
+There are some rather interesting antique
+brass trivets to be found in many
+of the larger antique shops.</p>
+
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span></p>
+<h2><a name="BUILDING_THE_FIRE" id="BUILDING_THE_FIRE"></a>BUILDING THE FIRE</h2>
+
+
+<p class="newsection"><span class="firstword"><span class="dropcap">I</span>have</span> no doubt that the majority
+of the readers who have patiently
+found their way thus far through this little
+book will feel like closing it with a sigh
+of impatience at the sight of the chapter
+heading above. &#8220;Who doesn&#8217;t know how
+to build a wood fire? We might as well
+seek instruction as to the most approved
+method of striking a match!&#8221; But if
+you will bear with me for a moment I
+would say most emphatically that as a
+matter of fact very few people really do
+know how to build a fire. It is easy
+enough to assemble a bunch of newspapers,
+twigs, kindling and logs so that it
+is possible to <i>start</i> a fire, but perhaps
+you have noticed that while many fires
+are kindled few burn out. If you are
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span>seeking for the greatest amount of comfort
+and enjoyment from your wood fire
+you will secure it only by sitting at the
+feet of that greatest of all teachers, experience,
+or perhaps more quickly by experimenting
+a bit with one or two of the
+simple expedients which I shall try to
+show are based on the wood fire&#8217;s way of
+working. While there are those who
+would not for worlds give up the pleasure
+of tinkering with the tongs and poker
+while the fire burns, it will perhaps not
+detract from this enjoyment if the tinkering
+is not actually the result of necessity
+to keep the logs burning. Fire-mending
+is a delightful recreation only
+when it is not imposed upon us by becoming
+an alternative to having the glowing
+embers become discouraged and give up
+the fight.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 446px;">
+<a name="A_Craftsman_Type" id="A_Craftsman_Type"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_46.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_46_th.jpg" width="446" height="254" alt="A Craftsman Type in Brick with Copper Hood" title="A Craftsman Type in Brick with Copper Hood" /></a>
+<span class="caption">There is a splendid opportunity for home craftsmanship of a high order in
+making the copper hood for an example of this type</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>First of all, there is the need of having
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span>fuel that is really dry. It is not essential
+that the woodpile be kept indoors,
+but it should at least have shelter above
+it and on three sides. The woodsheds of
+New England farmhouses offer a practical
+and efficient solution of the problem.
+Usually you will find these as an extension
+to the house, a shed open only to the
+south, in which the cord wood is piled
+neatly to the roof with sawn ends to the
+front. Two long logs are laid on the
+floor or ground, at right angles to the
+firewood, so as to encourage a circulation
+of air for drying.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the heavier logs which
+are cut to fit the fireplace opening, there
+should be almost an equal quantity of
+twigs, brush and smaller pieces, or else
+split kindling, to serve as starting fuel.</p>
+
+<p>To lay a fire on the hearth, select first
+a heavy log which should be placed close
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span>against the back of the fire chamber on
+the hearth and not on the andirons. This
+is the traditional &#8220;backlog.&#8221; It will
+serve through several fires and is intended
+mainly as a protection of the back brickwork.
+Stand the andirons with their
+rear ends close up against the backlog,
+and if the latter is of the best size its
+top will be well above the horizontal bars
+of the andirons. Now select a smaller
+log&mdash;preferably not a split piece&mdash;and
+lay it across the andirons. If a big
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span>fire is desired, keep this log&mdash;the &#8220;forelog&#8221;&mdash;well
+to the front, just back of
+the andiron upright posts, leaving plenty
+of space between backlog and forelog for
+the main body of the fire. The distance
+between these two logs will govern the
+size of the fire. In this space put a few
+crumpled sheets of newspaper, some of
+the lighter twigs and small branches, and
+one, two or three logs or split pieces, as
+may be required to fill the space. The
+diagrams will make clearer this arrangement
+for a small fire or a large one.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 304px;">
+<a href="images/illu_48.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_48_th.jpg" width="304" height="136" alt="Section showing the arrangement of andirons and wood" title="Section showing the arrangement of andirons and wood" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Section showing the arrangement of andirons
+and wood for a large fire (at the left) and a
+smaller one</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As the central portion of the fire burns
+away, keep the forelog pushed back
+against it, unless a less active fire is desired.
+It is well to remember that where
+one isolated log will not burn, two close
+together probably will, and a pyramid of
+three will do still better.</p>
+
+<p>Many fireplaces show a tendency to
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span>smoke only when first lighted; this is probably
+due to a cold chimney, and can usually
+be prevented or made less objectionable
+by burning a newspaper just under
+the throat, thus starting the proper action
+of the up and down drafts.</p>
+
+<p>If it is possible for us to choose between
+various kinds of wood for our open
+fire fuel there is opened up one of the
+most interesting phases of the whole subject.
+To most people probably a wood
+fire is a wood fire, whether the logs be of
+cherry wood, pine, hickory or anything
+else. For the wood fire connoisseur, if
+we may call him by that name, there is
+no difficulty whatever in telling with a
+glance at the fire just what wood is
+burned. The crackle and explosive nature
+of hickory, the hiss of pine, the
+steady flame from cherry, the hot and
+rapid disintegration of sycamore, and the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span>steady and thorough combustion of soft
+apple wood soon become familiar characteristics
+to those who have the opportunity
+to lay the fire in variety. Then
+there is, of course, the fascination and
+the weird coloring in a driftwood fire&mdash;most
+spectacular of all but unfortunately
+denied to most of us.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 272px;">
+<a name="A_Recessed_Fireplace" id="A_Recessed_Fireplace"></a>
+<a href="images/illu_50.jpg">
+<img src="images/illu_50_th.jpg" width="272" height="343" alt="A Recessed Fireplace in Brick and Rough Plaster" title="A Recessed Fireplace in Brick and Rough Plaster" /></a>
+<span class="caption">A simple and exceedingly effective recessed design
+in brick and rough plaster. The hearth is
+raised above the floor</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Finally, the most important factor of
+all in the management of a wood fire
+is an ample bed of ashes for its foundation.
+It is impossible for anyone who
+has not actually tried fires both ways to
+appreciate the immense advantage that a
+bed of wood ashes gives. It unquestionably
+doubles the fire&#8217;s efficiency in throwing
+heat out into the room, it halves the
+care and attention needed to keep the fire
+burning, and it increases beyond measure
+the beauty of a wood fire, when it is nearing
+its end, by rekindling itself with the
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span>embers and keeping alive for a long time
+the quiet, dull red glow. Stop your ears
+to the importunities of the over-zealous
+housekeeper and steel yourself against the
+pricks of the conscience of cleanliness.
+If need be, fight for the retention of that
+bed of ashes. You can scarcely get it too
+large or too deep. The accumulation of
+two years is a priceless treasure. One of
+my own fireplaces has a bank that has to
+be depleted about twice a year to make
+room for the fire. A peck or two of the
+fine white powder is then carried out to
+bring joy to the rose garden.</p>
+
+<p>To one who loves a wood fire and knows
+its possibilities the mention of such a
+thing as an ash-drop is as a red flag to a
+bull. Peace be to the ashes of the man
+who invented this easy method of robbing
+the hearth of half its charm. May he be
+forgiven it.</p>
+
+
+
+<h2 class="ads">THE<br />
+HOUSE &amp; GARDEN<br />
+<span class="u">MAKING</span><br />
+BOOKS</h2>
+
+
+<p>It is the intention of the publishers to make
+this series of little volumes, of which <i>Making
+a Fireplace</i> is one, a complete library of authoritative
+and well illustrated handbooks dealing
+with the activities of the home-maker and
+amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly
+clear the possibility of having, and the means of
+having, some of the more important features of
+a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication
+are the following: <i>Making a Rose Garden;
+Making a Lawn; Making a Tennis Court;
+Making a Water Garden; Making Paths and Driveways;
+Making a Poultry House; Making a Garden
+with Hotbed and Coldframe; Making Built-in
+Furniture; Making a Rock Garden; Making a
+Garden to Bloom this Year; Making a Garden
+of Perennials; Making the Grounds Attractive
+with Shrubbery; Making a Bulb Garden, Making
+a Garage, Making and Furnishing Outdoor Rooms
+and Porches;</i> with others to be announced later.
+</p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Fireplace, by Henry H. Saylor
+
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+</body>
+</html>
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Fireplace, by Henry H. Saylor
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Making a Fireplace
+
+Author: Henry H. Saylor
+
+Release Date: September 19, 2008 [EBook #26670]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MAKING A FIREPLACE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Markus Brenner and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                               MAKING A
+                               FIREPLACE
+
+
+                         _By_ HENRY H. SAYLOR
+
+                               AUTHOR OF
+                 BUNGALOWS, MAKING A ROSE GARDEN, ETC.
+
+                            [Illustration]
+
+
+                               NEW YORK
+                        McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY
+                                 1913
+
+
+
+                          Copyright, 1913, by
+                          MCBRIDE, NAST & CO.
+
+                       Published, January, 1913
+
+
+
+    [Illustration: The fireplace of long ago, made large enough to
+    accommodate most of the kitchen's pots and pans beside the fire]
+
+
+
+
+                               CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                      PAGE
+  INTRODUCTION                                           1
+
+  CONSTRUCTION                                           7
+
+  MISCELLANEOUS ODD FORMS                               22
+
+  FACINGS AND MANTELS                                   25
+
+  MENDING POOR FIREPLACES                               31
+
+  FIREPLACE ACCESSORIES                                 36
+
+  BUILDING THE FIRE                                     45
+
+
+
+
+                           THE ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+  THE FIREPLACE OF LONG AGO                 _Frontispiece_
+
+                                             FACING PAGE
+  AN ENGLISH BASKET GRATE IN BRASS                       4
+
+  A MODERN ENGLISH FIRE CORNER IN CONTRASTING TILES      4
+
+  AN INGLENOOK WITH STONE HEARTH                        22
+
+  CAEN STONE MANTEL FOR THE FORMAL TYPE                 26
+
+  AN INFORMAL FIREPLACE IN FIELD STONE                  30
+
+  THE MODERN COLONIAL TYPE WITH BRICK FACING AND
+  WHITE WOOD MANTEL                                     38
+
+  A CRAFTSMAN TYPE IN BRICK WITH COPPER HOOD            46
+
+  A RECESSED FIREPLACE IN BRICK AND ROUGH PLASTER       50
+
+
+
+
+                             INTRODUCTION
+
+
+In a book of this kind there is no particular need for dwelling at
+length on the desirability of having a fireplace. That will be taken for
+granted. It is enough to say that in these days a home can scarcely be
+considered worthy of the name if it does not contain at least one
+hearth. There is some inexplicable quality in a wood fire that exerts
+almost a hypnotic influence upon those who eagerly gather about it. The
+smoldering glow of the logs induces a calm and introspective mood that
+banishes all the trivialities and distractions of the day's work and
+gives one an opportunity to replenish his store of energy for the coming
+day.
+
+The open fire, unlike most of the comforts that we demand in a modern
+home, has been associated with the race as far back almost as the home
+itself. At first, of course, it was as a necessity and the development
+from that to a luxury has been an exceedingly slow one extending over
+the years down to the present time.
+
+There are two forms of the open fire--a possible third one, the gas log,
+being a subject on which the less said the better. We have, therefore, a
+choice between the open fireplace designed for wood and the basket grate
+in which to burn coal, preferably cannel coal. This latter fuel is not
+nearly so well known in this country as in England where the scarcity of
+wood necessarily makes coal the more commonly used fuel. With our own
+abundance of wood, however, there will perhaps be little hesitancy in
+choosing the open fireplace rather than the basket grate for coal,
+although in certain cases, for example an apartment where the flue has
+been built too small, or in a house where an available chimney offers
+only a small flue area for fireplace use, the basket grate will prove a
+welcome solution of the problem. Of course there is no excuse whatever
+for building a modern home with a chimney too small for the sort of
+fireplace you want, but where the chimney has already been built without
+this provision it may possibly be found that a small terra cotta flue
+lining may be inserted in the larger flue without seriously damaging the
+latter's power of draft. In that event the addition of a basket grate
+fireplace to an old house would be an interesting possibility.
+
+However fully we may appreciate the desirability of some sort of
+fireplace, there seems to be a rather widespread impression that the
+attainment is largely a matter of chance. Too many home-builders have
+instructed their architects to provide a fireplace or two in the fond
+hope that the matter was then practically closed--a mere matter of time
+until they might be sitting before the fire's cheerful glow. Too
+frequently the result has been a disappointment when the first few
+trials introduced into the room more smoke than heat or cheer. The
+reason for this is that there is a scientific basis for fireplace
+building which is frequently ignored absolutely by an over-confident and
+stupid mason. Where the work of building the home has been entrusted to
+an architect's hands the latter usually appreciates the fact that the
+building of the fireplaces is liable more than any other part of the
+house to be taken into the mason's own hands with, if he is not watched,
+disastrous results. Undoubtedly every mason would resent most
+strongly any insinuation as to his lack of knowledge regarding fireplace
+construction. Each mason not only thinks that he knows how a fireplace
+should be built, but it is almost as general a rule that he feels that
+his particular method is the only correct one.
+
+    [Illustration: One of the best forms of the basket grate in
+    brass. The splayed sides send out more heat]
+
+    [Illustration: A modern English fire corner. Facing and hearth
+    have been worked out in a rather startling contrast of tiles]
+
+
+In view of this it might be well for any man building his own home to
+give some attention to the matter of his fireplaces, to insist on
+knowing how they are designed and to follow their construction
+throughout so that there is no chance for a blunder; and this chance is
+not so slight as might be supposed. In a house in which the author had
+carefully shown every detail of construction in the drawings, it was
+found when the building was nearly completed that the cast-iron throat
+flues, which ordinarily prevent any possible mistake of construction on
+the mason's part, had been put in reversed and it was necessary to tear
+down the whole face of the chimney breast in each case to replace them
+properly.
+
+The matter of construction is not at all a complicated affair, as the
+next chapter will aim to show.
+
+
+
+
+                             CONSTRUCTION
+
+
+The chief difficulty in attaining a successful fireplace design does not
+lie in securing an abundant draft. In fact it is an easy matter to make
+a fireplace draw if the flue is large enough and the opening from the
+fire chamber into the flue unobstructed. There will never be any
+question of getting a roaring blaze the moment the fire is lighted.
+
+This is, in a way, the type of fireplace that our Colonial ancestors
+built--great cavernous openings and generous flues, with the result that
+the more wood was piled upon the blaze the more they blistered their
+toes and at the same time chilled their backs. For it is evident that
+when we secure such a strong, unobstructed current of hot air up the
+chimney, enough cool air to take its place must be drawn into the room
+through every opening and crevice. The result is a mighty draft that
+rushes past those unfortunate enough to be sitting about the fire and
+carries rapidly up the chimney almost all of the heat of combustion.
+
+In the fireplace of our Colonial ancestors probably ninety per cent. of
+the heat was entirely lost, being carried up the chimney. However, cord
+wood was then to be had for the cutting.
+
+We want a different sort of a fire in these days--one that will burn
+with a steady, constant blaze or glow, conserving most of its heat,
+which the back and sides of the fire chamber will reflect out into the
+room.
+
+Such a fireplace will not necessarily be a large one. It is amusing to
+hear how universally the demand goes up for large fireplaces--"great
+big fellows that will burn full cord wood." It is hard to see just why
+this is. It may be based on the assumption that if a small fireplace is
+desirable a large one is more so. This is a fallacy that the architect
+and fireplace builder find it hard to dispel. There is no objection
+whatever to a large fireplace in a summer camp or informal shack of that
+sort. In fact a small one would in such a place be ridiculous, but when
+we come to our year-round living-room or dining-room or den, where the
+walls of the room are tight and the whole atmosphere quieter and more
+restrained, a large fireplace would be distinctly a disturbing element.
+Such a room as this, unless very poorly built, would not permit the
+in-take of sufficient air for the draft of a big fireplace, whereas in
+our slab cabin or log bungalow the conditions are quite different.
+
+    [Illustration: A section through the fireplace and chimney. The
+    broad cross-hatching represents brickwork]
+
+For the ordinary room, therefore, a fair average size for the fireplace
+opening is three feet in width by two and a half feet high, with a depth
+half the width. From such a fireplace it is possible to get a maximum of
+heat with a minimum of draft.
+
+There are two vital principles that should be observed in the design of
+any fireplace. One of these is the relation between the size of the
+opening into the room and the size of the flue itself. A cross-section
+of the flue--which incidentally should be kept the same throughout its
+extent--should be one-tenth of the area of the opening into the room.
+The second vital consideration is the introduction of what are known as
+a "smoke shelf" and a "smoke chamber." The reason for constructing a
+fireplace with these two features will appear more readily by reference
+to the diagram. This is drawn to show that when a fire is kindled on the
+hearth the warm air current, which is generated immediately, begins to
+rise through the throat (the opening between the fire chamber and the
+smoke chamber) and at once induces a down-draft of cold air. If the back
+of the fireplace were on the same continuous plane with the rear side of
+the chimney flue, this downward current of cold air would strike
+directly upon the fire itself and force smoke out into the room. The
+smoke shelf is built just where it will prevent this action. The
+sectional diagram does not perhaps make quite clear the shape of this
+smoke chamber, but the accompanying perspective outline sketch will
+indicate the fact that the throat and the smoke chamber at the bottom
+must extend across the full width of the fire chamber. This width in
+the smoke chamber immediately diminishes in rising until it joins the
+flue at the flue's own area.
+
+The sectional diagram indicates a cast-iron damper built in the throat.
+This is not necessary, for it contributes nothing to the efficiency of
+the fire itself. Its one great advantage is that by furnishing the mason
+with an unalterable form, it forces him to build the throat properly
+rather than in one of the wrong ways that his own judgment might
+dictate. Such a cast-iron damper also forms a support for the flat arch
+of brick over the opening if bricks are used. If the damper is not built
+in, it is necessary to use an iron supporting bar to carry this flat
+arch. Then too, in case the damper is not used, there is lost the
+advantage of being able quite readily to close the throat entirely,
+which is highly desirable in the summertime and frequently in the winter
+when the fireplace is acting too strenuously as a ventilator. If the
+cast-iron throat is not used, therefore, it will be well to lay an iron
+plate on the smoke shelf in such a way that it could be drawn forward
+across the opening to close it.
+
+    [Illustration: Perspective view of the fireplace, showing the
+    shape of the various parts as built without a cast-iron throat
+    damper]
+
+There are other types of dampers, most of them patented and all of them
+aiming to provide an adjustable opening in the throat in some way. One
+or two of these have a knob or handle projecting through the brickwork
+of the arch, permitting the convenient adjustment of the damper from
+outside. As a general principle, however, it is well to choose the
+simplest possible device that will secure the desired result.
+
+The terra cotta flue lining which is shown in the sectional diagram is
+not absolutely necessary, of course, as it is a rather modern
+introduction and unnumbered fireplaces have served their purpose without
+it. There is no question, however, regarding its worth, for it provides
+a flue with smooth, regular sides that will not clog nearly so readily
+as an ordinary brick flue. Besides that, it has the advantage of
+permitting a thinner wall for the chimney. It is dangerous to build a
+chimney with a single four-inch thickness of brick between the flue and
+whatever may adjoin the chimney. Of course no wood should be allowed to
+come within an inch or two of the brickwork in any event, but with a
+single thickness of brick, unlined, there is always the danger that the
+mortar will crumble from a joint and leave an opening through which it
+would be an easy matter for sparks or flame to do considerable damage.
+The introduction of a flue lining, however, into the chimney built in
+this way makes it entirely safe, provided the joints between sections of
+flue lining are carefully filled and made smooth with cement mortar.
+
+The sectional diagram, it will be noticed, indicates a difference
+between the main back wall of the chimney, eight inches thick, and the
+brickwork laid inside the fire chamber to form the hearth and the back.
+The reason for this separation is that the rough brickwork of the
+chimney is always laid first as simply as possible, leaving the fire
+chamber with its sloping back and sides and the hearth to be filled in
+later with a better grade of brick or perhaps another kind. Frequently,
+also, tile will be combined with the brick finish as a hearth or facing.
+
+    [Illustration: A cross-section showing the construction of a
+    large stone fireplace with slightly arched opening]
+
+A support for the hearth is usually obtained as indicated--by bringing
+what is called a "row-lock" or "trimmer" arch between the foundation
+masonry of the chimney and a pair of floor joists set out at the proper
+distance, depending upon the desired width of the hearth. While this is
+the customary method, occasionally a support is secured in some other
+way, such as corbeling out from the masonry foundation, or by extending
+two short projections of this masonry from the bottom up at either end
+of the hearth and throwing an arch across between these. Upon a bed of
+cement the hearth bricks themselves are laid, usually flush with the
+floor, although occasionally enough higher to permit a beveled molding
+strip to cover the joint between brick and floor more closely. In some
+cases the hearth itself is raised the full thickness of a brick above
+the floor, as in one of the photographic illustrations shown.
+
+The width of the hearth is ordinarily made about sixteen or eighteen
+inches beyond the face of the opening with the average size fireplace,
+twenty inches or even more with larger ones. This width should be
+increased, of course, if the opening is made considerably larger. The
+question of materials for the hearth and facing will be discussed in the
+next chapter.
+
+The chimney itself should extend at least a foot or two above any nearby
+roof ridge and it should work without any cowl, whirligig or other
+device of that type on the top. There is no great objection to having
+the opening a horizontal one at the top of the chimney, although in that
+case if the flue is nearly straight throughout its course, some rain
+will find its way down to the hearth in a hard storm. In most cases
+there is enough bend in the flue to prevent this, and if not it may be
+avoided by covering the top of the chimney with a stone and having the
+openings vertical ones on all four sides just under this.
+
+All of the brickwork throughout chimney and fireplace should be laid in
+first-class cement mortar which consists of one part Portland cement to
+three parts clean, sharp sand. Although lime mortar was used in all
+brickwork up to recent years, it is not durable, particularly in the
+vicinity of heat.
+
+
+
+
+                        MISCELLANEOUS ODD FORMS
+
+
+There are many unusual forms of fireplace with which we are not
+particularly concerned. For example, one sees occasionally an opening
+shaped like an inverted heart or like an ace of spades. It is possible
+to make a fireplace of this kind work satisfactorily, but it is by no
+means certain that this result can be accomplished at the first trial
+nor that the fire will continue to work properly under all conditions.
+It is safer always to adhere to the established type of rectangular
+opening, or to depart from this only to the extent of having the top an
+arch of large radius. Whenever the top is permitted to vary more than a
+slight extent from the horizontal there is the danger of having the
+smoke escape into the room at the top.
+
+    [Illustration: The inglenook seldom fails as a dispenser of home
+    cheer. Frequently the seats are placed too close to the fire]
+
+There is one other type that deserves special mention and that is the
+double fireplace, where two openings in adjacent rooms are served by a
+single flue between them. The only way in which this affects the two
+vital principles mentioned above is that the cross-section area of the
+flue should be one-tenth of the combined areas of the openings. The
+throat will in this case be in the middle of the chimney with the smoke
+shelf on either side of it. It is essential in a fireplace of this kind
+that there be no disturbing draft tending to pass through the opening
+from one room to the other.
+
+Still another type which is even more rarely seen is the open fire in
+the middle of a room, such as may be desired occasionally in the
+lounging room of a large club. Such an apparent anomaly could be
+secured by suspending a metal flue and hood from the roof, so that the
+lower edge of the truncated pyramidal form at the bottom would form the
+upper side of the fireplace "opening" at a convenient height above the
+hearth of brick, stone, tile or concrete. It is conceivable that an
+effective and thoroughly practical fireplace could be thus devised,
+having the flue and hood of wrought iron or copper, suspended and
+steadied by chains or bars from the ceiling and surrounding walls. In
+such a form the same principle of a fixed ratio between opening (here
+the entire perimeter of the hood multiplied by the distance above the
+hearth) and cross-section of flue would have to be observed, and here
+also it would be well to provide as fully as possible against the
+presence of disturbing drafts.
+
+
+
+
+                          FACINGS AND MANTELS
+
+
+There is not a particularly wide choice of materials available for the
+finish of the hearth and fireplace. Stone, brick, cement and tile
+exhaust the possibilities, although with combinations of these we have
+all the variety that we could wish.
+
+Stone is suitable only in certain environments--the informal shack or
+log cabin chiefly, though of course it is impossible to make any hard
+and fast rule in the matter.
+
+Brick is almost never out of place. Perhaps it is the association with
+the fireplaces that have been built by our fathers and grandfathers, or
+perhaps it is the inherent worth and fitness of the material itself
+that puts it forward as a first choice. Undoubtedly the practical
+consideration that it is easier and more economical to build has
+something to do with the matter.
+
+Concrete is a newcomer in the field of fireplace facing and as yet it
+cannot be said to have shown any particular reason why it should
+displace the other materials. With the ordinary heat developed in an
+open fire of wood there is no likelihood of cracking the concrete facing
+if the material has been properly mixed and applied, although there
+seems to be a vague impression that this might be a real danger. The
+color of concrete gives it no particular recommendation, for it is one
+that remains unchanged by fire, though not unstained by smoke. Brick, on
+the other hand, and tile, have the very closest possible association
+with fire in the making, which gives them a peculiar fitness for this
+purpose.
+
+    [Illustration: Caen stone or its clever representation in cement
+    serves well for the more formal type of mantel and facing]
+
+Tile, the last of the four materials, gives more latitude in design than
+any of the others, sometimes too much latitude we feel. If
+understandingly used, nothing could be more appropriate and attractive,
+but tile has been used so carelessly that somehow we have a feeling that
+the tiled fireplace is for show rather than for use. In any case, there
+is no question whatever regarding the unfitness of the glazed tiles
+which have made horrors of thousands of pseudo fireplace openings. It is
+only the mat-glazed or unglazed tiles that have any right to be used in
+such a place.
+
+Since this little volume has for its subject the fireplace rather than
+the mantel, little need be said regarding the latter outward form,
+though there is no doubt that a whole book on the subject might
+profitably be written. To touch upon the subject as lightly as space
+will permit, we can probably do no better than to suggest the obvious
+type of mantel for one or two of the more common architectural styles,
+and recommend that in other styles the architect be allowed sufficient
+latitude in design and expense to distinguish this important feature of
+hall, living-room, dining-room or library with the characteristics of
+the style he has worked out for the house itself.
+
+The modern home along Colonial lines is perhaps the commonest problem,
+and incidentally the easiest, for the old models of delicately detailed
+white-painted wood mantels are so well known and so universally admired
+that modern reproductions along good lines and reasonable cost are
+easily obtained.
+
+For the English plaster or half-timber house the architect will
+doubtless design a special mantel, in scale and in harmony with the dark
+paneling and other architectural woodwork, probably with a paneled
+over-mantel if the cost is not too rigorously held down.
+
+In a house which breaks away from the historic architectural styles, as
+so many of the stucco buildings of the day do, the mantel treatment
+offers particularly interesting possibilities. Frequently the mantel is
+done away with entirely and the chimney breast treated independently as
+a whole.
+
+With the very informal type of summer home where a rough stone for
+facing and chimney is employed, the mantel treatment can hardly be kept
+too simple and unobtrusive in its rugged strength. A heavy log, planed
+to a smooth top surface and resting on two projecting stone brackets,
+is frequently used with good effect. The chimney breast may be stepped
+back at the shelf height to form a narrow stone ledge, or the breast
+left without any shelf. Many simple variations with the informal brick
+chimney breast will occur to everyone. In general, with these summer
+shacks or bungalows, the fireplace is the chief architectural feature of
+the living-room and for that reason will stand a moderate amount of
+embellishment, but this latter should take the form of a slightly better
+finish of the materials used throughout the room rather than the
+introduction of more elaborate and costly ones.
+
+    [Illustration: A fireplace and chimney breast of field stone,
+    chosen with care and laid with more than average skill]
+
+
+
+
+                        MENDING POOR FIREPLACES
+
+
+It is well enough to say just how a fireplace should be built so that it
+will work satisfactorily, but that does not go far in helping the man
+who has a fireplace that will not work. Frequently it is possible
+without any very great expense and trouble to correct a fireplace that
+has been improperly built. If one has in mind a clear comprehension of
+the few elementary principles of fireplace construction it will usually
+be an easy matter to determine the reason why a fireplace smokes or
+fails to draw.
+
+The cross-section area of the flue is likely to prove the most common
+difficulty. Usually this cannot be seen from inside the fireplace,
+because of the narrow throat and the smoke chamber which in some form
+may be above the shelf. If, therefore, the apparent essentials--such as
+shape of opening, narrow throat across the whole width, and preferably
+the slanting back--have been followed out it would be well to determine
+the area of the flue itself. To do this it will be necessary to reach
+the top of the chimney and, by lowering a weight on a line, find which
+flue leads to the fireplace in question. Its area at the top will in all
+probability be its area throughout. If the flue happens to be the only
+one in that particular chimney it may sometimes be determined more
+easily by counting the bricks in its two horizontal directions and in
+this way estimating what would probably be the inside flue. This
+conclusion is by no means sure, however, since the chimney may be built
+with eight-inch walls or it may be simply a four-inch wall with the
+flue lining. To one with a knowledge of bricklaying, however, the way in
+which the chimney is laid up will usually indicate the size of the flue.
+
+Having determined the size of the fireplace opening and the
+cross-section area of the flue itself, it will in many cases be found
+that the latter is too small for the former. The easiest way to remedy
+this difficulty naturally would be to decrease the size of the opening
+in the face of the fireplace. In order to check up the diagnosis,
+however, it would be well to fit a pair of thin boards to wedge fairly
+tightly into the opening at the top, one of which boards could be drawn
+down past the other one so that the fireplace opening may be decreased
+anywhere from six to twelve inches in height--using two six-inch boards.
+By testing the fireplace in action in this way it will be readily
+determined by what amount the opening must be decreased. The boards
+then being removed, a wrought-iron curtain or decorative projecting hood
+of wrought iron or copper may be fitted permanently to the front.
+
+It is possible, however, that the opening of the fireplace and the flue
+area are properly related, in which case it may be found that the
+trouble is due to the lack of a narrow throat and smoke shelf. This too
+could be constructed in the fireplace without disturbing anything
+outside, such as the mantel or chimney breast, unless the fireplace is
+not large enough to permit the addition of four inches of brick at the
+back. If it is not, it will be well to examine carefully the thickness
+of the wall at the back of the fireplace and if this is sufficient, part
+of it could be taken away where the slope of the back joins the upright
+wall--about a foot above the hearth surface--and the sloping back built
+in from there up to form the throat. Or, to make perfectly sure of the
+result, the mantel itself could be removed--this is usually merely
+nailed to the plaster--and enough of the chimney breast taken down to
+permit the introduction of a cast-iron throat damper.
+
+
+
+
+                         FIREPLACE ACCESSORIES
+
+
+Just as a turkey dinner depends largely for its success upon the
+"fixin's," so the fireplace is in itself incomplete without its andirons
+and tools. To begin with the most nearly indispensable appurtenances, we
+must name the andirons--or, if the fuel is to be coal, then the basket
+grate. I have wondered sometimes why the philosophers have not hit upon
+the andiron as a particularly fitting subject for pleasurable
+rumination. There are so few things which combine to such a degree the
+purely utilitarian with the eminently decorative qualities. Most things
+which do combine the two in any real measure have been developed on the
+side of one at the expense of the other quality. Take man's dress coat,
+for example, the cut-away front of which, with the two buttons at the
+back, was designed to permit the gentleman to loop the skirts up to his
+waist when he mounted his horse. Or, take the modern lighting fixture
+with its little pan still waiting to catch the drip of the tallow
+beneath the flame, which has long since been displaced by gas tip or
+incandescent filament. How few things there are, after all, which ages
+ago--probably through a long evolution--were designed to meet a real
+need in the best possible manner and which still meet that need and
+combine true beauty with their usefulness. The wrought-iron shoe of a
+horse occurs to us, perhaps a ship's anchor, a string-bow or an axe
+helve.
+
+Some support is needed to raise the fuel so that the air may find a
+clear passage under and through it to the flames, and nothing could well
+be devised to serve the purpose better than the pair of horizontal
+wrought bars, each with its single rear foot and its steadying front,
+the upper continuation of which serves to hold the burning logs in
+place.
+
+One is not likely to go wrong in making a choice of andirons for any
+given type of fireplace. The simply turned brass patterns belong so
+obviously to the Colonial brick opening with its surrounding white
+woodwork; the rougher wrought-iron types are so evidently at home in the
+craftsman fireplace or the rough opening of stonework, that misfits are
+hardly possible.
+
+Fortunately the old brass andirons of Colonial days have proven
+themselves fitted to survive, and many of them are still to be found in
+old cobwebby attics or in the more accessible shop of the dealer in
+antiques. One of these confided to me his way of distinguishing the
+really old andirons from artificially aged reproductions: the old ones
+have the turned brass of the front post held in place by a wrought-iron
+bar that attaches to the horizontal member by a screw thread on the bar
+itself; on the modern examples this upright bar is drilled with a
+threaded hole into which an ordinary short screw engages through a hole
+in the horizontal member.
+
+    [Illustration: The good old dependable Colonial type, with its
+    simple brick facing framed by the delicately detailed white wood
+    mantel]
+
+Next after the andirons in importance are the tools--the three most
+nearly essential ones being the poker, tongs and shovel. There is no
+need of saying that these should harmonize with the andirons and
+preferably be of brass if they are of brass; wrought iron if the
+andirons are of wrought iron. There are two ways of taking care of
+them--the ordinary method of using a stand which, if the tools are
+bought together, will probably come with them; or in some of the
+fireplace types where the whole chimney breast is of brick, concrete or
+stone, sometimes a combination of three or more hooks is wrought in the
+same metal as the tools and fixed securely in the chimney breast at the
+side of the opening.
+
+A brush for the hearth, although not so frequently seen, is exceedingly
+useful in sweeping back the ashes and small embers. Then there is the
+time-honored bellows, now hardly more than an ornament, for with a
+scientifically built fireplace it should never need to be called into
+action.
+
+A screen of some sort comes nearer to being classed with the necessities
+than with the merely decorative accessories, for it is hardly safe to
+leave a fire or even the smoldering embers without some protection
+against the damage that is so quickly caused by sparks. The usual type
+of screen is the woven wire one in several forms. Probably the most
+convenient type is that made up of a number of flat sections which fold
+upon one another into a compact mass which will not be in the way when
+not in use. In recent years, however, there is another sort of screen
+that is coming to be regarded with very high favor and that is the
+screen made up of glass in combination with other materials. There is
+the simple French screen of glass panes in a gilded frame, and there are
+wonderful possibilities for the employment of the craftsman's skill in
+combining with plain or lightly tinted glass more decorative features in
+the way of stained glass and leading or in the combination of glass and
+metals.
+
+The design of a fire screen depends, of course, on the purpose it is
+intended to serve. If it is desired to secure a screen that will cut off
+the heat but not the light of the fire, the craftsman will work with
+larger areas of clear glass. On the other hand, it may be felt desirable
+to make a nearly opaque screen to cut off both light and heat. These, of
+course, are usually small rectangles on some sort of a pedestal and are
+not intended to take the place of spark screens.
+
+A wood receptacle of some form is a convenient accessory, as one will
+avoid the task of carrying fuel up from the cellar or in from the
+woodpile whenever a fire is desired. There is a broad field from which
+to choose--brass-bound boxes of many sizes and forms, sturdy baskets and
+the metal wood baskets which are made for holding the logs themselves.
+There are those who prefer not to encumber the vicinity of the
+fireplace with these rather bulky receptacles, but who find it
+convenient to have a box built in near by in the form of a window-seat
+or perhaps as a part of built-in bookcases. Two or three houses that I
+have known had a very simple rough dumbwaiter running from the cellar up
+into a window-seat. This could be loaded with fuel, hoisted into
+position and locked there until the fuel was needed.
+
+There are two other fireplace accessories that we must not overlook, and
+these are the crane and the trivet. The crane is a very picturesque
+feature in a fireplace that is large enough to hold it comfortably, but
+it does seem unfortunate that in a great many fireplaces the crane is
+dragged in with the idea of making it a decorative feature but without
+any expectation of putting it to practical use. There are
+fireplaces--in a summer camp, for example--where a crane could be put to
+good use. Used elsewhere it is too often merely an affectation.
+
+The trivet is not nearly so well known as the crane and yet it might be
+put to use in a modern fireplace much more frequently. In England it is
+found in various ingenious forms, most of which show, however, some form
+of low stool which is stood upon the hearth, as near as may be
+convenient to the fire, to keep warm a teakettle or perhaps even a plate
+of toast. There are some rather interesting antique brass trivets to be
+found in many of the larger antique shops.
+
+
+
+
+                           BUILDING THE FIRE
+
+
+I have no doubt that the majority of the readers who have patiently
+found their way thus far through this little book will feel like closing
+it with a sigh of impatience at the sight of the chapter heading above.
+"Who doesn't know how to build a wood fire? We might as well seek
+instruction as to the most approved method of striking a match!" But if
+you will bear with me for a moment I would say most emphatically that as
+a matter of fact very few people really do know how to build a fire. It
+is easy enough to assemble a bunch of newspapers, twigs, kindling and
+logs so that it is possible to _start_ a fire, but perhaps you have
+noticed that while many fires are kindled few burn out. If you are
+seeking for the greatest amount of comfort and enjoyment from your wood
+fire you will secure it only by sitting at the feet of that greatest of
+all teachers, experience, or perhaps more quickly by experimenting a bit
+with one or two of the simple expedients which I shall try to show are
+based on the wood fire's way of working. While there are those who would
+not for worlds give up the pleasure of tinkering with the tongs and
+poker while the fire burns, it will perhaps not detract from this
+enjoyment if the tinkering is not actually the result of necessity to
+keep the logs burning. Fire-mending is a delightful recreation only when
+it is not imposed upon us by becoming an alternative to having the
+glowing embers become discouraged and give up the fight.
+
+    [Illustration: There is a splendid opportunity for home
+    craftsmanship of a high order in making the copper hood for an
+    example of this type]
+
+First of all, there is the need of having fuel that is really dry. It
+is not essential that the woodpile be kept indoors, but it should at
+least have shelter above it and on three sides. The woodsheds of New
+England farmhouses offer a practical and efficient solution of the
+problem. Usually you will find these as an extension to the house, a
+shed open only to the south, in which the cord wood is piled neatly to
+the roof with sawn ends to the front. Two long logs are laid on the
+floor or ground, at right angles to the firewood, so as to encourage a
+circulation of air for drying.
+
+In addition to the heavier logs which are cut to fit the fireplace
+opening, there should be almost an equal quantity of twigs, brush and
+smaller pieces, or else split kindling, to serve as starting fuel.
+
+To lay a fire on the hearth, select first a heavy log which should be
+placed close against the back of the fire chamber on the hearth and not
+on the andirons. This is the traditional "backlog." It will serve
+through several fires and is intended mainly as a protection of the back
+brickwork. Stand the andirons with their rear ends close up against the
+backlog, and if the latter is of the best size its top will be well
+above the horizontal bars of the andirons. Now select a smaller
+log--preferably not a split piece--and lay it across the andirons. If a
+big fire is desired, keep this log--the "forelog"--well to the front,
+just back of the andiron upright posts, leaving plenty of space between
+backlog and forelog for the main body of the fire. The distance between
+these two logs will govern the size of the fire. In this space put a few
+crumpled sheets of newspaper, some of the lighter twigs and small
+branches, and one, two or three logs or split pieces, as may be required
+to fill the space. The diagrams will make clearer this arrangement for a
+small fire or a large one.
+
+    [Illustration: Section showing the arrangement of andirons and
+    wood for a large fire (at the left) and a smaller one]
+
+As the central portion of the fire burns away, keep the forelog pushed
+back against it, unless a less active fire is desired. It is well to
+remember that where one isolated log will not burn, two close together
+probably will, and a pyramid of three will do still better.
+
+Many fireplaces show a tendency to smoke only when first lighted; this
+is probably due to a cold chimney, and can usually be prevented or made
+less objectionable by burning a newspaper just under the throat, thus
+starting the proper action of the up and down drafts.
+
+If it is possible for us to choose between various kinds of wood for our
+open fire fuel there is opened up one of the most interesting phases of
+the whole subject. To most people probably a wood fire is a wood fire,
+whether the logs be of cherry wood, pine, hickory or anything else. For
+the wood fire connoisseur, if we may call him by that name, there is no
+difficulty whatever in telling with a glance at the fire just what wood
+is burned. The crackle and explosive nature of hickory, the hiss of
+pine, the steady flame from cherry, the hot and rapid disintegration of
+sycamore, and the steady and thorough combustion of soft apple wood
+soon become familiar characteristics to those who have the opportunity
+to lay the fire in variety. Then there is, of course, the fascination
+and the weird coloring in a driftwood fire--most spectacular of all but
+unfortunately denied to most of us.
+
+    [Illustration: A simple and exceedingly effective recessed
+    design in brick and rough plaster. The hearth is raised above
+    the floor]
+
+Finally, the most important factor of all in the management of a wood
+fire is an ample bed of ashes for its foundation. It is impossible for
+anyone who has not actually tried fires both ways to appreciate the
+immense advantage that a bed of wood ashes gives. It unquestionably
+doubles the fire's efficiency in throwing heat out into the room, it
+halves the care and attention needed to keep the fire burning, and it
+increases beyond measure the beauty of a wood fire, when it is nearing
+its end, by rekindling itself with the embers and keeping alive for a
+long time the quiet, dull red glow. Stop your ears to the importunities
+of the over-zealous housekeeper and steel yourself against the pricks of
+the conscience of cleanliness. If need be, fight for the retention of
+that bed of ashes. You can scarcely get it too large or too deep. The
+accumulation of two years is a priceless treasure. One of my own
+fireplaces has a bank that has to be depleted about twice a year to make
+room for the fire. A peck or two of the fine white powder is then
+carried out to bring joy to the rose garden.
+
+To one who loves a wood fire and knows its possibilities the mention of
+such a thing as an ash-drop is as a red flag to a bull. Peace be to the
+ashes of the man who invented this easy method of robbing the hearth of
+half its charm. May he be forgiven it.
+
+
+
+
+                                 _THE
+                            HOUSE & GARDEN
+                                MAKING
+                                BOOKS_
+
+
+It is the intention of the publishers to make this series of little
+volumes, of which _Making a Fireplace_ is one, a complete library of
+authoritative and well illustrated handbooks dealing with the activities
+of the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and diagrams
+will, in each respective book, aim to make perfectly clear the
+possibility of having, and the means of having, some of the more
+important features of a modern country or suburban home. Among the
+titles already issued or planned for early publication are the
+following: _Making a Rose Garden_; _Making a Lawn_; _Making a Tennis
+Court_; _Making a Water Garden_; _Making Paths and Driveways_; _Making a
+Poultry House_; _Making a Garden with Hotbed and Coldframe_; _Making
+Built-in Furniture_; _Making a Rock Garden_; _Making a Garden to Bloom
+this Year_; _Making a Garden of Perennials_; _Making the Grounds
+Attractive with Shrubbery_; _Making a Bulb Garden_, _Making a Garage_,
+_Making and Furnishing Outdoor Rooms and Porches_; with others to be
+announced later.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Making a Fireplace, by Henry H. Saylor
+
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