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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/27581-0.txt b/27581-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..a533461 --- /dev/null +++ b/27581-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,1488 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Wu Chuanlu, by Fan Chengda + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Wu Chuanlu + +Author: Fan Chengda + +Release Date: December 21, 2008 [EBook #27581] + +Language: Chinese + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WU CHUANLU *** + + + + +Produced by Yi-hong Chen + + + + + + + +书名: 吳船錄 +範成大 著 + + +Title: Wu Chuanlu +Author: Fan Chengda + + + + +石湖居士以淳熙丁酉歲五月二十九日戊辰離成都。是日,泊舟小東郭 +合江亭下。合江者,岷江別派自永康離堆分入成都及彭、蜀諸郡合於 +此。以下新津,綠野平林,煙水清遠,極似江南。亭之上曰芳華樓, +前後植梅甚多。故事:臘月賞梅於此。管界巡檢營在亭傍。每花開及 +三分,巡檢司具申一兩日開燕,監司預焉。蜀人入吳者,皆自此登舟。 +其西則萬里橋。諸葛孔明送費禕使吳,曰:「萬里之行,始於此。」後 +因以名橋。杜子美詩曰:「門泊東吳萬里船。」此橋正為吳人設。余在 +郡時,每出東郭,過此橋,輒為之慨然。東下五里,曰板橋灘,自蜀 +都下峽,灘之始也。 + +六月己巳朔。發孥累,舟下眉州彭山縣,泊。單騎轉城,過東、北兩 +門,又轉而西。自侍郎堤西行秦岷山道中,流渠湯湯,聲震四野,新 +秧勃然鬱茂。前兩旬大旱,種幾不入土,臨行,連日得雨。道見田翁, +欣然曰:「今歲又熟矣。」 + +五十里,至郫縣。觀者塞途,皆嚴裝盛飾,帟幕相望。蓋自來無制帥 +行此路者。自是而西,州縣皆然。郫邑屋極盛,家家有流水脩竹,而 +楊氏之居為最。縣圃大竹萬?,流水貫之,濃翠欲滴。 + +未至縣二十里,有犀浦鎮,故犀浦縣。今廢,屬郫,猶為壯鎮。杜子 +美詩:「南京犀浦道,四月熟黃梅。湛湛長江去,冥冥細雨來。」蜀無 +梅雨,子美梅熟時經行,偶值雨耳。恐後人便指為梅雨,故辯之。唐 +玄宗幸蜀,嘗以成都為南京云。 + +郫筒。截大竹,長二尺以下,留一節為底,刻其外為花紋。上有蓋, +以鐵為提梁,或朱或黑,或不漆,大率挈酒竹筒耳。《華陽風俗記》所 +載,乃刳竹傾釀,閉以藕絲蕉葉,信宿馨香達於外。然後斷取以獻, +謂之郫筒酒。觀此,則是就竹林中為之,今無此酒法矣。 + +庚午。二十里,早頓安德鎮。四十里,至永康軍。一路江水分流入諸 +渠,皆雷轟雪卷,美田彌望,所謂岷山之下沃野者正在此。崇德廟在 +軍城西門外山上,秦太守李冰父子廟食處也。 + +辛未。登城西門樓。其下岷江。江自山中出,至此始盛壯。對江即岷 +山。岷山之最近者,曰青城山。其尤大者,曰大面山。大面山之後, +皆西戎山矣。西門名玉壘關。自門少轉,登浮雲亭,李蘩清叔守郡時 +所作。取杜子美詩「玉壘浮雲變古今」之句,登臨雄勝。 + +又登懷古亭,俯觀離堆。離堆者,李太守鑿崖中斷,分江水一派入永 +康以至彭、蜀,支流自郫以至成都。懷古對崖,有道觀曰伏龍,相傳 +李太守鎖孽龍於離堆之下。觀有孫太古畫李氏父子像。 + +出玉壘關,登山,謁崇德廟。新作廟前門樓,甚壯,下臨大江,名曰 +都江。江源政自西戎中來,由岷山澗壑出而會於此,故名都江。世云 +江出岷山者,自中國所見言之也。李太守疏江驅龍,有大功於西蜀。 +祠祭甚盛,歲刲羊五萬,民買一羊將以祭而偶產羔者,亦不敢留,併 +驅以享。廟前屠戶數十百家,永康郡計至專仰羊稅,甚矣其殺也。余 +作詩刻石以諷,冀神聽萬一感動云。 + +廟前近離堆,累石子作長汀以遏水,號象鼻,以形似名。西川夏旱, +支江水涸,即遣使致禱,增堰壅水,以入支江,三四宿,水即?,謂之 +攝水。余在成都,連歲遣郡丞馮?攝水祠下,皆如期而應,連得稔。既 +謁謝於廟,徜徉三樓而返。 + +將至青城,再度繩橋。每橋長百二十丈,分為五架,橋之廣十二繩排 +連之,上布竹笆,攢立大木數十於江沙中,輦石固其根,每數十木作 +一架,掛橋於半空,大風過之,掀舉幡然,大略如漁人曬網、染家晾 +綵帛之狀。又須捨輿疾步,從容則震掉不可立。同行皆失色。郡人云: +「稍迂數里,有白石渡,可以船濟,然極湍險也。」 + +五十里,早頓羅漢院沿江行。山?入青城界。道左右多幽居,流水淙琤, +脩竹彌望。晚,漸入山。 + +三十里,至青城山。門曰寶仙九室洞天。夜宿丈人觀。觀在丈人峰下, +五峰峻峙如屏,觀之臺殿,上至巖腹。丈人自唐以來,號五岳丈人儲 +福定命真君。傳記略云:「姓?,名封。與黃帝同時,帝從之問龍蹻飛 +行之道。」本朝增崇祠典,與灊、廬皆有宮名,此獨號丈人觀。先是 +其徒以為言,余為請之朝。李燾仁父適為禮部侍郎,上議曰: + +按:《河圖括地象》:岷山之精,上為井絡,帝以會昌,神以建福。注 +曰:「昌即慶也。」青城實岷山第一峰,會慶又符誕節之名。 + +乃賜名會慶建福宮。余將入山而敕書適至,乃作醮以祝聖謝恩。 + +真君殿前有大樓,曰玉華。翬飛輪?,極土木之勝。殿四壁,孫太古畫 +黃帝而下三十二仙真,筆法超妙,氣格清逸。此壁冠於西州。兩廡古 +畫尚多,半已剝落,惟張果老、孫思邈二像無恙。 + +壬申。泊青城山。始生之辰也。今春病少城,幾殆,僅得更生,因來 +名山禳祭。 + +夜,道士就殿前作步虛儀。方升壇,有大炬出殿後巖上,色洞赤,周 +旋山頂,有頃滅變。同遊者疾趨來觀,則無有矣。余默請於丈人,此 +燈正為僕出者,當復見,使諸人共觀之。語脫口,燈復出,分合眩轉, +若經藏然,食頃乃沒。觀人云:「從來此峰無燈,四年前曾一見。」 + +今日山後老人村耆耋婦子輩,聞余至此,皆扶攜來觀。村去此不遠, +但過數繩橋。俗稱其村曰獠澤,余以為不雅馴,更名老宅。近來鹽酪 +路通,壽亦減。 + +癸酉。自丈人觀西登山,五里至上清宮。在最高峰之頂,以板閣插石, +作堂殿。下視丈人峰,直堵牆耳。岷山數百峰,悉在欄檻下,如翠浪 +起伏,勢皆東傾。一軒正對大面山,一上六十里,有夷坦曰芙蓉平, +道人於彼種芎。非留旬日不可登,且涉入夷界,雖羽衣輩亦罕到。雪 +山三峰爛銀琢玉,闖出大面後。雪山在西域,去此不知幾千里,而了 +然見之,則其峻極可知。上清之遊,真天下偉觀哉! + +夜,有燈出。四山以千百數,謂之聖燈。聖燈所至多有,說者不能堅 +決。或云古人所藏丹藥之光,或謂草木之靈者有光,或又以謂龍神山 +鬼所作,其深信者則以為仙聖之所設化也。 + +甲戌。下山五里,復至丈人觀。二十里,早頓長生觀,范長生得道處 +也。有孫太古畫龍虎二君,在殿外兩壁上。筆勢揮掃,雲?飛動,蓋孫 +筆之尤奇者。 + +殿壁又有孫畫《味江龍》一堵。相傳孫欲畫龍而不知其真。有丈夫過, +云:「君欲識真龍乎?」忽變而夭矯。孫諦視,畫得之。視稍久,一目 +遂眚,即此畫也。舊壁,宣和間取入京師。臨行,道士募名筆摹於新 +壁,今所存者摹本也。 + +晚,宿范氏莊園。 + +乙亥。十五里,發青城縣。同年雅州守何正仲子方來見,招遊其?從園 +林。江水分流入縣,灘聲聒耳,以故人家悉有流渠脩竹,易成幽趣。 + +四十五里,晚宿蜀州城外聖佛院。 + +丙子。二十里,早頓周家莊。周氏三大第,皆高爽嚴潔。大抵沃野所 +在,二百年不見兵火。居民屋室如法,有承平氣象。 + +十里,至蜀州。郡圃內西湖極廣袤。荷花正盛,呼湖船汎之。繫纜古 +木脩竹間,景物甚野,為西州勝處。湖中多小菱,可食。蜀無菱,至 +此始見之[8]。郡守吳廣仲撒舊四相堂新之,名曰熙春。余謂不若仍 +其舊。四相謂唐李絳、鍾紹京等,皆嘗為蜀州刺史者也。然但名四相, +嫌限定數,乃為更名相業云。 + +丁丑。三十里,早頓江原縣。前館職張縯季長招至其曾祖所作善頌堂 +上。季長之祖與司馬溫公、范太史同朝相善也,論新法不合,歸。二 +公作《善頌堂詩》以送之,使歸壽其親。詩卷皆存壁,有趙清獻公宰 +邑時題字。 + +季長之族祖浩,藏仁宗御飛白書。山谷所跋者,其末句譽天地之高厚, +贊日月之光華;「臣知其不能也」,今集中作「臣自知其不能也」。「自」 +字蓋後來所增,語意方全。山谷自稱「洪州分寧縣雙井里前史官臣黃 +庭堅」,蓋謫戎州時所跋。 + +四十里,宿新津縣。成都及此郡送客畢會。邑中借居,僦舍皆滿,縣 +人以為盛。成都萬里橋下之江與岷江正派合於此。 + +戊寅。為送客住一日。飲罷,發遣,令各歸,留者尚十五六。新津縣 +廨上雨傍風,無一席寬潔處。送客貪於相從,歡然竟日,忘其居之陋 +也。 + +己卯。大雨,不可登脩覺。脩覺者,新津縣對江一小山。上有絕勝亭, +一望平野,可盡西川。杜子美所謂「西川供客眼,惟有此江郊」。是日, +霧雨昏昏,非遠望所宜,故不復登。 + +辰初,以小舟下彭山,己、未已到,與孥累船會。即解維,午後,至 +眉州城外江,即玻?江也。冬時水色如此。方夏,潦怒濤漲,皆黃流耳。 +江上小山名蟆頤,川原平遠似江、浙間。 + +城中荷花特盛,處處有池塘。他郡種荷者皆買種於眉。?城悉是石街, +最為雅潔,前守王陽英昭祖所作也。景疏樓在子城上,甚草草。聞舊 +樓在其角,尤不如今。其前多草木蔽虧,無所見。 + +庚辰。劉焞文潛招集於郡圃起文堂,堂名蓋為東坡設對起文。又一堂, +前守李石知幾所作,名元祐學堂。眉人云:「李初揭堂名,輕薄子於郡 +前旗亭上,亦書其榜曰『淳熙酒肆』。」其俗大抵好論議。文潛,郡人 +也。 + +眉郡治有古?,在廳事後,太守不敢居,扃鑰奉祠之。又聞軍資庫有一 +水甕,滿貯石子,每月朔亦祠之,仍增水、石各一器,不知其幾年, +而至今不滿。官府怪誣之事,未有如眉之?甕者。 + +辛巳。招送客燕於眉山館,與?別。荔子已過,郡中猶餘一株,皆如渥 +丹,盡擷以見餉。偶有兩柈留館中,經宿取視,綠葉紅實粲然。乃知 +尋常用籃絡盛貯,徒欲透風,不知為雨露沾灑,風日炙薄,經宿色香 +都變。試取數百顆,貯以大合,密封之,走介入成都,以遺高、朱二 +使者,亦兩夕到。二君回書云:「風露之氣如新。」記之以告好事者。 + +壬午。發眉州。六十里,午,至中巖,號西川林泉最佳處。相傳為第 +五羅漢諾矩那道場,又為慈姥龍所居。 + +登岸即入山徑,半里有?魚潭。水出巖下,莫知淺深,是為龍之窟宅。 +人拍手潭上,則?魚自巖下出,然莫敢玩。兩年前,有監司從卒浴其中, +若有物曳入崖下。翌日,屍浮出江上。 + +又半里,有深源泉。凡五里,至慈姥巖。巖前即寺也。凡山中巖潭亭 +院之榜,皆山谷書。山谷貶戎州,今?州也。有親故在青神,遂至眉, +遊中巖。自此不復西,蓋元不識成都,疑有所畏避云。 + +入寺,側出石磴,半里餘,有三石峰,平正如高樓巍闕,?嶪奇偉,不 +可名狀。前二峰,後一峰,如品字。前二峰之間,容一徑,可以並行。 +至中峰之下,有石室,諾矩那庵也。舊說有天台僧,遇病僧與一木鎖 +匙,曰:「異日至眉之中巖,以此匙扣石?,我當出見。」已而果然。 +天台僧怳然,識為病僧。挈以赴海中齋會。既回,如夢覺。自此中巖 +之名遂顯。三峰,土人謂之石?。余觀之,乃三石樓,?蓋不足道。 + +傍又有寶缾峰數百尺,上侈下縮,真一古壺,亦甚奇怪。 + +送客復集山中,遂留宿。初夜,月出東嶺,松桂如蒙霜雪,與諸人憑 +欄極談。至夜分,散。 + +癸未。早食後,與送客出寺,至慈姥巖前徘徊,皆不忍分袂。復班荊, +小飲巖下。須臾風雨大至,巖溜垂下如布,雨映松竹,如玉塵散飛。 +諸賓各即席作詩,不覺日暮,遂皆不成行。下山,復入宿寺中。 + +甲申。早出山,至江步,與送客先歸者別。放船過青衣,入湖瀼峽, +由平羌舊縣至嘉州,日未晡。自眉至嘉,百二十里,中巖其半途也。 + +謁憲使程詠之於雪堂。雪堂者,詠之葺重堂之後一堂。深邃清涼,專 +以度暑。盡取所藏雪圖掛四壁,而榜曰雪堂,將以館余。余不暇遷, +然未行以前,蓋日造焉。 + +先是余造舟於?,既成,泝流泊於嘉。甫畢而被召,自合江乘小舟至此。 +登新艦,乃治裝,及載諸軍封樁,稍治一行私商匿稅之弊,例留數日。 + +行館之側,曰問月堂。雖久不葺,然月正出前簷,名不虛得。 + +城累大石為之,以備漲湍,雖庳而堅。儀門之榜曰犍為郡,然非漢郡 +舊地也。尤多荔枝,皆大本,輪囷數圍,以九頂寺殿前槱核者為最, +每歲,憲司專之。 + +乙酉。泊嘉州。渡江,遊凌雲。在城對岸,山不甚高,綿延有九山頭, +故又名九頂。舊名青衣山;青衣,蠶叢氏之神也。舊屬平羌縣,縣廢, +併屬龍遊。 + +躋石磴,登凌雲寺。寺有天寧閣,即大像所在。嘉為眾水之會,導江、 +沫水與岷江,皆合於山下,南流以下犍為。沫水合大渡河由雅州而來, +直擣山壁,灘瀧險惡,號舟楫至危之地。唐開元中,浮屠海通始鑿山 +為彌勒佛像以鎮之。高三百六十尺,頂圍十丈,目廣二丈,為樓十三 +層。自頭面以及其足,極天下佛像之大。兩耳猶以木為之。佛足去江 +數步,驚濤怒號,洶湧過前,不可安立正視,今謂之佛頭灘。佛閣正 +面三峨,餘三面皆佳山,眾江錯流諸山間,登臨之勝,自西州來,始 +見此耳。東坡詩:「但願身為漢嘉守,載酒常作凌雲遊。」後人取其語, +作載酒亭於山上。 + +丙戌。泊嘉州。遊萬景樓,在州城,傍高丘之上。漢嘉登臨山水之勝, +既豪西州,而萬景所見,又甲於一郡。其前大江之所經,犍為、戎、 +瀘,遠山縹緲明滅,煙雲無際。右列三峨,左橫九頂,殘山剩水,間 +見錯出。萬景之名,真不濫吹。余詩蓋題為西南第一樓也。 + +九頂之傍,有烏尤一峰,小江水繞之,如巧畫之圖。樓前百餘步,有 +古安樂園。山谷常遊之,名軒曰涪翁,壁間題字猶存。云「見水繞烏 +尤」,惟此亭耳。是時未有萬景,故山谷以安樂園為勝,今不足道矣。 + +下山,入小巷,至廣福院。中有水洞,靜聽洞中,時有金玉聲,琅然 +清越,不知水滴何許作此聲也。舊名東丁水,寺亦因名東丁院,山谷 +更名方響洞,題詩云:「古人名此東丁水,自古丁東直到今。我為更名 +方響洞,要知山水有清音。」 + +丁亥、戊子、己丑、庚寅、辛卯,泊嘉州。遣近送人馬,歸者十九。 +留家嘉州岸下,單騎入峨眉。有三山,為一列,曰大峨、中峨、小峨。 +中峨、小峨昔傳有遊者,今不復有路。惟大峨一山,其高摩霄,為佛 +書所記普賢大士示現之所。自郡城出西門,濟燕渡水,洶湧甚險。此 +即雅州江,其源自巂州邛部合大渡河,穿夷界千山以來。過渡,宿蘇 +稽鎮。 + +壬辰。早發蘇稽,午過符文鎮。兩鎮市井繁遝,類壯縣。符文出布, +村婦聚觀於道,皆行而績麻,無索手者。民皆束艾蒿於門,燃之發煙, +意者熏袚穢氣,以為候迎之禮。 + +午後,至峨眉縣宿。 + +癸巳。發峨眉縣。出西門,登山,過慈福、普安二院、白水莊、蜀村 +店。十二里,龍神堂。 + +自是?谷舂淙,林樾雄深。小憩華嚴院,過青竹橋、峨眉新觀、路口、 +梅樹埡、兩龍堂,至中峰院。院有普賢閣,回環十七峰繞之。背倚白 +崖峰。右傍最高而峻挺者,曰呼應峰。下有茂真尊者庵,人?罕至。孫 +思邈隱於峨眉,茂真在時,常與孫相呼,相應於此云。 + +出院,過樟木、牛心二嶺及牛心院路口,至雙溪橋。亂山如屏簇,有 +兩山相對,各有一溪出焉。並流至橋下,石塹深數十丈,窈然沉碧, +飛湍噴雪,奔出橋外,則入岑蔚中,可數十步,兩溪合為一,以投大 +壑。淵渟凝湛,散為溪灘。灘中悉是五色及白質青章石子。水色麴塵, +與石色相得,如鋪翠錦,非摹寫可具。朝日照之,則有光彩發溪上, +倒射巖壑,相傳以為大士小現也。 + +牛心寺三藏師繼業,自西域歸過此,將開山,兩石?溪上,攬得其一, +上有一目,端正透底,以為寶瑞,至今藏寺中,此水遂名寶現溪。自 +是登危磴,過菩薩閣,當道有榜,曰天下大峨山,遂至白水普賢寺。 +自縣至此,步步皆峻陂,四十餘里,然始是登峰頂之山?耳。 + +甲午。宿白水寺。大雨,不可登山。 + +謁普賢大士銅像。國初,敕成都所鑄。有太宗、真宗、仁宗三朝所賜 +御製書百餘卷,七寶冠、金珠瓔珞、袈裟、金銀缾?、奩爐、匙?、果 +壘、銅鐘、鼓、鑼、磬、蠟茶、塔、芝草之屬。又有崇寧中宮所賜錢 +幡及織成紅幡等物甚多,內仁宗所賜紅羅紫繡袈裟,上有御書《發願 +文》,曰: + +佛法長興,法輪常轉。國泰民安,風雨順時。干戈永息,人民安樂, +子孫昌盛。一切眾生,同登彼岸。嘉祐七年十月十七日,福寧殿御札 +記。 + +次至經藏。亦朝廷遣尚方工作寶藏也。正面為樓闕,兩傍小樓夾之。 +釘鉸皆以?石,極備奇靡。相傳純用京師端門之制。經書則造於成都, +用碧硾紙銷銀書之。卷首悉有銷金圖畫,各圖一卷之事。經簾織輪相 +鈴杵器物及「天下太平」、「皇帝」、「萬歲」等字於繁花縟葉之中,今 +不復見此等織文矣。 + +次至三千鐵彿殿,云:「普賢居此山,有三千徒眾共住,故作此佛。」 +冶鑄甚朴拙。 + +是日設供,且禱於大士,丐三日好晴以登山。 + +乙未。大霽,遂登上峰。自此至峰頂光相寺七寶巖,其高六十里。大 +略去縣中平地不下百里,又無復蹊磴。斫木作長梯,釘巖壁,緣之而 +上,意天下登山險峻,無此比者。余以健卒挾山轎強登。以山丁三十 +夫,曳大繩行前挽之,同行則用山中梯轎。 + +出白水寺側門,便登點心山。言峻甚,足膝點於心胸云。 + +過茅亭觜、石子雷、大小深坑、駱駝嶺、簇店。凡言店者,當道板屋 +一間。將有登山客,則寺僧先遣人煮湯於店,以俟蒸炊。 + +又過峰門、羅漢店、大小扶{左?右舁}、錯喜歡、木皮里、胡孫梯、雷 +洞平。凡言平者,差可以託足之處也。雷洞者,路在深崖,萬仞磴道, +缺處則下瞰沉黑若洞然。相傳下有淵水,神龍所居,凡七十二洞。歲 +旱,則禱於第三洞。初投香幣,不應,則投死彘及婦人弊履之類,以 +掁觸之,往往雷風暴發。峰頂光明巖上所謂兜羅綿雲,亦多出於此洞。 + +過新店、八十四盤、娑羅平。娑羅者,其木葉如海桐,又似楊梅花, +紅白色,春夏間開,惟此山有之。初登山半即見之,至此,滿山皆是。 +大抵大峨之上,凡草木禽蟲,悉非世間所有,昔固傳聞,今親驗之。 +余來以季夏,數日前,雪大降,木葉猶有雪漬斕斑之跡。草木之異, +有如八仙而探紫,有如牽牛而大數倍,有如蓼而淺青。聞春時異花尤 +多,但是時山寒,人鮮能識之。草葉之異者,亦不可勝數。山高多風, +木不能長,枝悉下垂。古苔如亂髮,鬖鬖挂木上,垂至地,長數丈。 +又有塔松,狀似杉而葉圓細,亦不能高,重重偃蹇如浮圖,至山頂尤 +多。又繼無鳥雀,蓋山高,飛不能上。 + +自娑羅平,過思佛亭、軟草平、洗?溪,遂極峰頂光相寺。亦板屋數十 +間,無人居。中間有普賢小殿。以卯初登山,至此已申後。初衣暑綌, +漸高漸寒,到八十四盤,則驟寒。比及山頂,亟挾纊兩重,又加毳衲 +駝茸之裘,盡衣笥中所藏。繫重巾,躡氈靴,猶凜慄不自持,則熾炭 +擁爐危坐。山頂有泉,煮米不成飯,但碎如砂粒。萬古冰雪之汁,不 +能熟物,余前知之,自山下攜水一缶來,財自足也。 + +移頃,冒寒登天仙橋,至光明巖。炷香小殿上,木皮蓋之。王瞻叔參 +政,嘗易以瓦,為雪霜所薄,一年輒碎,後復以木皮易之,翻可支二 +三年。人云佛現悉以午,今已申後,不若歸舍,明日復來。 + +逡巡,忽雲出巖下,傍谷中,即雷洞山也。雲行,勃如隊仗。既當巖, +則少駐。雲頭現大圓光,雜色之暈數重。倚立相對中,有水墨影,若 +仙聖跨象者。一碗茶頃,光沒,而其傍復現一光如前,有頃亦沒。雲 +中復有金光兩道,橫射巖腹,人亦謂之小現。日暮,雲物皆散,四山 +寂然。乙夜,燈出,巖下?滿,彌望以千百計。夜寒甚,不可久立。 + +丙申。復登巖眺望,巖後岷山萬重,少北則瓦屋山在雅州,少南則大 +瓦屋,近南詔,形狀宛然,瓦屋一間也。小瓦屋亦有光相,謂之辟支 +佛現。此諸山之後,即西域雪山,崔嵬刻削,凡數十百峰,初日照之, +雪色洞明如爛銀,晃耀曙光中。此雪自古至今,未嘗消也。山綿延入 +天竺諸蕃,相去不知幾千里,望之但如在几案間,瑰奇勝絕之觀,真 +冠平生矣。復詣巖殿致禱,俄氛霧四起,混然一白,僧云銀色世界也。 + +有頃,大雨傾注,氛霧辟易。僧云:「洗巖雨也,佛將大現。」兜羅綿 +雲復布巖下,紛鬱而上,將至巖數丈輒止。雲平如玉地,時雨點有餘 +飛。俯視巖腹,有大圓光,偃?平雲之上。外暈三重,每重有青黃紅綠 +之色。光之正中,虛明凝湛,觀者各自見其形現於虛明之處,毫釐無 +隱,一如對鏡,舉手動足,影皆隨形而不見傍人,僧云攝身光也。此 +光既沒,前山風起雲馳,風雲之間,復出大圓相光,橫?數山,盡諸異 +色,合集成釆。峰巒草木,皆鮮妍絢蒨,不可正視。雲霧既散,而此 +光獨明,人謂之清現。凡佛光欲現,必先布雲,所謂兜羅綿世界。光 +相依雲而出,其不依雲,則謂之清現,極難得。 + +食頃,光漸移,過山而西。左顧雷洞山上,復出一光,如前而差小, +須臾亦飛行過山外,至平野間,轉徙得得,與巖正相值,色狀俱變, +遂為金橋。大略如吳江垂虹,而兩圯各有紫雲捧之。凡自午至未,雲 +物凈盡,謂之收巖,獨金橋現至酉後始沒。 + +同登峰頂者:幕客簡世傑伯雋、楊光商卿、周傑德俊萬、進士虞植子 +建及家弟成績。今日,復有同年楊愻伯勉、幕客李嘉謀良仲自夾江來, +甫至而光現。 + +丁酉。下山。始登山時,雖躋攀艱難,有繩曳其前,猶險而不危。下 +山時,雖復以繩縋輿後梯斗下,輿夫難著?,既險且危。下山漸覺暑氣, +以次減去綿衲。午至白水寺,則絺綌如故。聞昨暮寺中大雷雨,峰頂 +夕陽快晴,元不知也。 + +幕客范謨季申、郭明復中行、楊輔嗣勳皆自漢嘉來會,而不及余於峰 +頂。食後,同遊黑水,過虎溪橋,奔流激湍,大略似雙溪而小不及。 +始開山,僧自白水尋勝至此,溪漲,不可渡,有虎蹲伏其傍,因遂跨 +之,亂流以濟,故以名溪。白、黑二水,皆以石色得名。黑水前對月 +峰,棟宇稍潔。宿寺中東閣。 + +秋七月戊戌,朔。離黑水,復過白水寺,前渡雙溪橋,入牛心寺。雨 +後斷路,白雲峽水方漲,碧流白石,照人肺肝,如層冰積雪。籃輿下 +行峽淺處以入寺。飛濤濺沬,襟裙皆濡。境過清,毛髮盡竦。 + +寺對青蓮峰,有白雲、青蓮二閣最佳。牛心本孫思邈隱居,相傳時出 +諸山,寺中人數見之。小說亦載招僧誦經,施與金錢,正此山故事。 + +有孫仙煉丹?,在峰頂,及陶珠泉在白雲峽最深處。去寺數里,水深不 +可涉。獨訪丹?。?傍多奇石,祠堂後一石尤佳,可以箕踞宴坐,名玩 +丹石。 + +寺有唐畫羅漢一板,筆跡超妙,眉目津津,欲與人語。成都古畫浮圖 +像最多,以余所見,皆出此下。蜀畫胡僧,惟盧楞伽之筆為第一,今 +見此板,乃知楞伽源流所自,餘十五板亡之矣。 + +此寺即繼業三藏所作。業姓王氏,耀洲人。隸東京天壽院。乾德二年, +詔沙門三百人,入天竺求舍利及貝多葉書,業預遣中。至開寶九年, +始歸寺。所藏《涅盤經》一函,四十二卷。業於每卷後,分記西域行 +程,雖不甚詳,然地里大略可考,世所罕見,錄於此,以備國史之闕。 + +業自階州出塞西行,由靈武、西?、甘、肅、瓜、沙等州,入伊吳、高 +昌、焉耆、于闐、疏勒、大食諸國,度雪嶺至布路州國。 + +又度大?嶺,雪山至伽溼彌羅國,西登大山,有薩埵太子投崖飼虎處, +遂至健陀羅國,謂之中印土。 + +又西至庶流波國及左爛陀羅國。國有二寺。 + +又西過四大國,至大曲女城,南臨陷牟河,北背洹河,塔廟甚多而無 +僧尼。 + +又西二程,有寶?故基。 + +又西至波羅奈國,兩城相距五里,南臨洹河。 + +又西北十許里,至鹿野苑,塔廟佛蹟最夥(業自云別有傳記,今不傳 +矣)。南行十里,渡洹河。河南有大浮圖。自鹿野苑西至摩羯提國,館 +於漢寺。寺多租入,八村隸焉。僧徒往來如歸,南與杖林山相直,巍 +峰巋然。山北有優波掬多石室及塔廟故基。南百里有孤山,名?足三峰。 +云是迦葉入定處。 + +又西北百里,有菩提寶座城。四門相望,金剛座在其中,東向。 + +又東至尼連禪河。東岸有石柱,記佛舊事。自菩提座東南五里,至佛 +苦行處。 + +又西三里,至三迦葉村及牧牛女池。金剛座之北門外,有師子國伽藍。 + +又北五里,至伽耶城。 + +又北十里,至伽耶山,云是佛說《寶雲經》處。 + +又自金剛座東北十五里,至正覺山。 + +又東北三十里,至骨磨城。業館於蝦羅寺,謂之南印土。諸國僧多居 +之。 + +又東北四十里,至王舍城。東南五里,有降醉象塔。 + +又東北,登大山,細路盤紆,有舍利子塔。 + +又臨澗有下馬迎風塔。度絕壑,登山頂,有大塔廟,云是七佛說法處。 +山北平地。 + +又有舍利本生塔。其北山半曰鷲峰,云是佛說《法華經》處。山下即 +王舍城,城北山址,有溫泉二十餘井。 + +又北有大寺及迦蘭?竹園故跡。 + +又東有阿難半身舍利塔。溫湯之西,有平地,直南登山,復有畢?羅窟 +[29]。業止其中,誦經百日而去。窟西,復有阿難證果塔。此去新 +王舍城八里,日往乞食會。新王舍城有蘭若,隸漢寺。 + +又有樹提迦故宅城。其西,有輪王塔。 + +又北十五里,有那爛?寺。寺之南北,各有數十寺,門皆西向。其北, +有四佛座。 + +又東北十五里,至烏嶺頭寺。東南五里,有聖觀自在像。 + +又東北十里,至伽溼彌羅漢寺,寺南距漢寺八里許。自漢寺東行十二 +里,至卻提希山。 + +又東七十里,有鴿寺。西北五十里,有支那西寺,古漢寺也。西北百 +里,至花氏城,育王故都也。自此渡河,北至毘耶離城,有維摩方丈 +故跡。 + +又至拘尸那城及多羅聚落。踰大山數重,至泥波羅國。 + +又至磨逾里,過雪嶺,至三耶寺。由故道自此入階洲。 + +太祖已宴駕,太宗即位。業詣闕進所得梵夾舍利等,詔擇名山修習。 +登峨眉,北望牛心,眾峰環翊,遂作庵居,已而為寺。業年八十四而 +終。 + +出牛心,復過中峰之前,入新峨眉觀。自觀前山開新路,極峻斗下。 +冒雨以遊龍門,竭蹶數里,?至一處,澗溪自兩山石門中湧出,是為龍 +門峽也。以一葉舟棹入石門,兩岸千丈巖壁,色如碧玉,刻削光潤。 +入峽十餘丈,有兩瀑布各出一巖頂,相對飛下嵌根,有盤石承之,激 +為飛雨,濺洙滿峽,舟過其前,衣皆沾灑透溼,又數丈,半巖有圓龕, +去水可二丈,以木梯升之,即龍洞也。峽中紺碧無底,石寒水清,非 +復人世。舟行數十步,石壁益峻,水益湍,亟回棹。舟人云:「前去更 +奇。」以雨大作,加飛瀑沾濡,暑肌起粟,骨驚神,凜乎其不可以久 +留也。 + +昔嘗聞峨眉雙溪,不減廬山三峽。前日過之,真奇絕。及至龍門,則 +雙溪又在下風。蓋天下峽泉之勝,當以龍門為第一。要之遊者自知, +未之遊者,必以余言為過。然其路險絕,亂石當道,將至峽,必捨輿, +躡草履,經營蹞步於槎牙兀臬中,方至峽口。蓋大峨峰頂天下絕觀, +蜀人固自罕遊,而龍門又勝絕於山間,遊峨眉者,亦罕能到。非好奇 +喜事、忘勞苦而不憚疾病者,不能至焉。 + +復尋大路出山。初夜,始至縣中。 + +己亥。發峨眉。晚,至嘉州。 + +庚子、辛丑。皆泊嘉州。 + +壬寅。將解纜。嘉守王亢子蒼留看月榭。前權守陸游務觀所作,正對 +大峨,取李大白「峨眉山月半輪秋,影入平羌江水流」之句。郡治乃 +在山坡上。正堂之偏,有孫真人祠。祠前有丹井;又有石洞,亦有水 +聲如東丁,號鳴玉洞。 + +食後,發嘉州。監司太守前路相別。憲司吏獨棹葉舟,過佛頭灘,覆 +於望中。子姪船上重下輕,屢欹側不免,議易舟。僅行二十里,至王 +波渡宿。 + +蜀中稱尊老者為波,祖及外祖皆曰波,又有所謂天波、日波、月波、 +雷波者,皆尊之之稱。此王波蓋王老或王翁也。宋景文嘗辯之,謂當 +作「皤」字。魯直貶涪州別駕,自號涪皤,或從其俗云。 + +癸卯。發王波渡,四十里至羅護鎮。岸有石如馬,村人常以繩糜之, +云不然為怪。百里至犍為縣。縣有江樓,甚高爽,下臨長川。過縣二 +十里,至下?宿。 + + +-------------------------------------------------------------------------------- + +卷下 +甲辰。發下?。百里,至?州宣化縣。百二十里,至?州,纔亭午。?, +古戎州也。 + +山谷謫居在小寺中,號大死庵。後人就作祠堂,并裒墨蹟刻其中。方 +山谷謫居時,屢有鎖江亭詩,今江上舊基,別作新亭,頗如法鎖江者。 + +舊戎州在對江平坡之上,與夷蠻雜處。馬湖江自夷中出,合大江。夷 +自馬湖舟行,必過舊州下,故聯鎖於江口,以防其出沒。今徙州治於 +南岸,而鎖江之名猶存,猶置鎖中流,但攔稅而已。 + +舊州有《韋?紀功碑》,巍然在荒榛中。對江諸夷皆重屋,林木蔚然, +盛暑猶荷氈以觀客舟之過江。 + +兩岸多荔子林。郡醞舊名「重碧」,取杜子美《戎州》詩「重碧拈春酒, +輕紅擘荔枝」之句。余謂「重」字不宜名酒,為更名「春碧」。印本「拈」 +或作「酤」,郡有碑本,乃作「粘」字。 + +乙巳。發?州。十五里,有南廣江來合大江,通百二十里,至南溪縣。 +四十五里,至瀘州江安縣。道中有灘,號張旗三灘。謂湍勢奔急,張 +旗之頃,已過三灘也。百二十里,至瀘州,方申時。 + +大雨中不暇登眺。瀘雖近年以為帥府,井邑草草,不成都會,亦以密 +邇夷蠻故也,然在漢已為江陽縣矣。 + +蜀中惟瀘?之城皆以屋蓋之,極類廣西。?多頹圮,瀘獨全好,然猶不 +及桂林之壯。瀘、?對江即夷界。近城有渡瀘亭,竟不知諸葛孔明的從 +何處渡。或云?正對馬湖江,馬湖入諸夷路,當自彼渡也。 + +丙午。泊瀘州。登南定樓,為一郡佳處。前帥晁公武子止所作,下臨 +內江。此水自資、簡州來合大江。城上有來風亭,瞰二江合處,於納 +涼最宜,梁介子輔所作。子輔蓋得末疾於斯亭,竟以不起,亭名疑讖 +云。 + +丁未。將解維,瀘帥馬騏德駿移具江亭。比散,風起,日亦曛,不可 +行。 + +戊申。發瀘州。百二十里,至合江縣。對岸有廟曰登天王,相傳為呂 +光廟。事苻堅,以破虜將軍平蜀有功,後其子紹即天王位,登天之名 +或以此。舟人至縣,皆上謁,以魚為享,無即以鮓。又以鳩摩羅什從 +祀而享以餅餌。 + +又有劉仙觀,在對江安樂山。劉仙名珍,隋開皇時人。山中出天符木 +葉,上有篆文,如道士書符,人採以相贈遺。 + +蜀中送客至嘉州歸盡,獨楊商卿父子、譚季壬德稱三人送至此,踰千 +里矣。乃為留一宿以話別。 + +己酉。發合江。二百四十里,至恭州江津縣。二十里,過漁洞,宿泥 +培村。 + +庚戌。發泥培。六十里,至恭州。自此入峽路。大抵自西川至東川, +風土已不同,至峽路益陋矣。恭為州乃在一大磐石上,盛夏無水土氣, +毒熱如爐炭燔灼,山水皆有瘴,而水氣尤毒。人喜生癭,婦人尤多。 +自此至秭歸皆然。承平時謂之川峽,自不同年而語。軍興,置大帥司, +始總名四川。然法令科條,猶稱川峽。 + +泊舟小憩報恩寺,熱亦不可逃。生平不堪暑,未有如此日者。 + +辛亥。發恭州。嘉陵江自利、閬、果、合等州來合大江。百四十里, +至涪州樂溫縣。有張益德廟。大觀中賜額雄威,韶興中封忠顯王。蒲 +氏墨舊出此縣,大韶死久矣,其族人猶賣墨,不復能大佳,亦以賤價 +故也。 + +七十里,至涪州排亭之前,波濤大洶,濆淖如屋,不可梢船。過州, +入黔江泊。此江自黔州來合大江。大江怒漲,水色黃濁。黔江乃清泠 +如玻璃,其下悉是石底。自成都登舟,至此始見清江。涪雖不與蕃部 +雜居,舊亦夷,俗號為四人。四人者,謂華人、巴人及?君與盤瓠之種 +也。 + +自眉、嘉至此,皆產荔枝。唐以涪州任貢。楊太真所嗜,去州數里, +有妃子園,然其品實不高。今天下荔枝,當以閩中為第一,閩中又以 +莆田陳家紫為最。川、廣荔枝生時,固有厚味多液者,乾之肉皆瘠, +閩產則否。 + +壬子。發涪州。過??灘,既險且長。水雖大漲,亂石猶森然。兩傍他 +舟皆蕩兀,驚怖號呼。 + +百二十里,至忠州酆都縣。去縣三里,有平都山仙都道觀,本朝更名 +景德。冒大暑往遊,阪道數折,乃至峰頂。碑牒所傳,前漢王方平、 +後漢陰長生皆在此山得道仙去。有陰君丹爐及兩君祠堂皆存。祠堂唐 +李吉甫所作,壁亦有吉甫像。有晉、隋、唐三殿,制度率痺狹,不突 +兀,故能久存。壁皆當時所畫,不能盡精,惟隋殿後壁十仙像為奇筆, +豐臞妍怪,各各不同,非若近世繪仙聖者一切為靡曼之狀也。晉殿內 +壁亦有溪女等像,可亞隋壁。殿前浴丹池,不甚甘涼。 + +滿山古柏大數圍,轉運司歲遣官點視。相傳為陰君手種。余以成都孔 +明廟柏觀之,彼止劉蜀時物,乃大此數倍。然段文昌《修觀記》已云 +「峭壁千仞,下臨沸波,老柏萬栽,上蔭峰頂」,段時已稱老柏,或真 +陰君所植,直差瘦耳。陰君以煉丹濟人為道業,其法猶傳,知石泉軍 +章森德茂家有陰丹甚奇,即陰君丹法也。 + +觀中唐以來留題碑刻以百數,暑甚不暇?讀。道家以冥獄所寓為酆都 +宮,羽流云此地或是。 + +晚行數十里,至竹平宿。 + +癸丑。發竹平。七十里,至忠州。有四賢閣,繪劉晏、陸贄、李吉甫、 +白居易像,皆嘗謫此州者。又有荔枝樓,樂天所作。 + +又行五十里,至萬州武寧縣。八十里,至萬州。宿在江濱。邑里最為 +蕭條,又不及恭、涪。蜀諺曰:「益、梓、利、夔最下,忠、涪、恭、 +萬尤卑。」然泝江入蜀者,至此即捨舟而徒,不兩旬可至成都,舟行 +即須十旬。 + +甲寅。早遊西山。萬有西山及岑公洞,皆可遊。岑叟事見嚴挺之碑, +隋末避地得道。洞隔漲江,不暇往。 + +西山之麓登阪,及山半,得平地,有泉溢為小湖,作亭堂其上,荷芰 +充滿,四山紫翠環之,亦佳處也。山谷題字極稱許之。湖上有煙霏閣, +取題中語也。 + +食頃回,解舟。六十里,至開江口。水自開、達州來合大江。四十里, +至下巖。沿江石壁下,忽嵌空為大石屋,即石壁鑿為像設,前有瑞光 +閣,閣上石巖如簷,覆之水簾,落巖下排溜閣前,此景甚奇。然此水 +乃山頂田間灌溉之餘,旱則涸矣。閣前有大荔枝兩株,交柯蔽映。入 +蜀道,至此始見荔枝。 + +巖壁刻字尤多,坡、谷皆有之。坡書殊不類,非其親蹟。寺屋尤弊壞。 +昔有劉道者創之,劉死,鑿巖壁以藏骨,今有石室處可辨也。 + +四十里,至雲安軍。又十餘里,風作水湧,泊舟宿。 + +乙卯。過午,風稍息,遂行。百四十里,至夔州。余前年入蜀,以重 +午至夔,魚復方漲,八陣在水中,今來水更過之,六十四蕝不復得見, +頗有遺恨。 + +峽江水性大惡,飲輒生癭,婦人尤多。前過此時,婢子輩汲江而飲, +數日後發熱,一再宿,項領腫起,十餘人悉然。至西川月餘,方漸消 +散。守、倅乃日取水於?龍山泉,去郡十許里,前此不知也。 + +丙辰。泊夔州。早遣人視瞿唐水齊,僅能沒灩澦之頂,盤渦散出其上, +謂之灩澦撒髮。人云如馬尚不可下,況撒髮耶!是夜,水忽驟漲,渰 +及排亭諸簟舍,亟遣人毀拆,終夜有聲,及明走視,灩澦則已在五丈 +水下。或謂可以僥倖乘此入峽,而夔人猶難之。同行皆往瞿唐祀白帝, +登三峽堂及遊高齋,皆在關上。高齋雖未必是杜子美所賦,然下臨灩 +澦,亦奇觀也。 + +丁巳。水長未已,辰、巳時,遂決解維。十五里,至瞿唐口,水平如 +席。獨灩澦之頂,猶渦紋瀺灂,舟拂其上以過,搖艣者汗手死心,皆 +面無人色。蓋天下至險之地,行路極危之時,傍觀皆神驚,余已在舟 +中,一切付自然,不暇問,據胡?坐招頭處,任其盪兀。每一舟入峽數 +里,後舟方敢續發。水勢怒急,恐猝相遇,不可解拆也。帥司遣卒執 +旗,次第立山之上,下一舟平安,則簸旗以招後船。舊圖云:「灩澦大 +如襆,瞿唐不可觸。灩澦大如馬,瞿唐不可下。」此俗傳「灩澦大如 +象,瞿唐不可上」,蓋非是也。後人立石辯之,甚詳。 + +入峽百餘步,南壁有泉,相傳行人欲飲水,則叫呼曰人渴也,泉出巖 +罅,盡一杯而止。舟行速且難梢泊,不暇考也。 + +峽中兩岸,高巖峻壁,斧鑿之痕皴皴然,而黑石灘最號嶮惡。兩山束 +江驟起,水勢不及平,兩邊高而中窪下,狀如茶碾之槽,舟楫易以傾 +側,謂之茶槽齊,萬萬不可行。余來,水勢適平,免所謂茶槽者。又 +水大漲,渰沒草木,謂之青草齊,則諸灘之上,水寬少浪,可以犯之 +而行。余之來,水未能盡漫草木,但名草根齊,法亦不可涉,然犯難 +以行,不可回首也。 + +十五里,至大溪口。水稍闊,山亦差遠,夔峽之險紓矣。 + +七十里,至巫山縣宿。縣人云:「昨夕水大漲,灩澦恰在船底,故可下 +夔峽。至巫峽則不然,則須水退十丈乃可。」是夕,水驟退數丈,同 +行者皆有喜色。 + +戊午。乘水退下巫峽,灘瀧稠險,濆淖洄洑,其危又過夔峽。 + +三十五里,至神女廟。廟前灘尤洶怒,十二峰俱在北岸,前後蔽虧, +不能足其數。最東一峰尤奇絕,其頂分兩歧,如雙玉篸插半霄,最西 +一峰似之而差小。餘峰皆鬱嵂非常,但不如兩峰之詭特。相傳一峰之 +上,有文曰「巫」,不暇訪尋。自縣行半里,即入峽。時辰巳間,日未 +當午,峽間陡暗如昏暮,舉頭僅有天數尺耳。兩壁皆是奇山,其可儗 +十二峰者甚多。煙雲映發,應接不暇,如是者百餘里,富哉其觀山也。 +十二峰皆有名,不甚切,事不足錄。 + +神女廟乃在諸峰對岸小岡之上,所謂陽雲臺、高唐觀,人云在來鶴峰 +上,亦未必是。神女之事,據宋玉賦云以諷襄王,其詞亦止乎禮義, +如「玉色頩以赬顏」、「羌不可兮犯干」之語,可以概見。後世不?,一 +切以兒女子褻之。余嘗作前後《巫山高》以辯。今廟中石刻引《墉城 +記》:瑤姬,西王母之女,稱雲華夫人,助禹驅鬼神,斬石疏波,有功 +見紀,今封妙用真人,廟額曰凝真觀,從祀有白馬將軍,俗傳所驅之 +神也。 + +巫峽山最嘉處,不問陰晴,常多雲氣,映帶飄拂,不可繪畫,余兩過 +其下,所見皆然。豈余經過時偶如此,抑其地固然?「行雲」之語, +亦有所據依耶?世傳巫山圖,皆非是;雖夔府官廨中所畫亦不類。余 +令畫史以小舠泛中流摹寫,始得形似。今好事者所藏,舉不若余圖之 +真也。 + +廟有馴鴉,客舟將來,則迓於數里之外,或直至縣。下船過,亦送數 +里。人以餅餌擲空,鴉仰喙承取不失一。土人謂之神鴉,亦謂之迎船 +鴉。 + +二十里,至東奔灘。高浪大渦,巨艑掀舞,不當一槁葉,或為渦所使, +如磨之旋。三老挽招竿叫呼,力爭以出渦。 + +二十里,過歸州巴東縣,有寇忠愍公祠。縣亭二柏,傳為公手植。 + +九十里,至歸州。未至州數里,曰吒灘,其嶮又過東奔。土人云黃魔 +神所為也。連接城下大灘,曰人鮓甕。很石橫?,據江十七八。從人船 +傾側,水入篷窗,危不濟。聞交代胡長文給事已至夷陵,欲陸行,舟 +車且參辰,義不可相避,泊秭歸以須之。 + +己未。泊歸州。峽路州郡固皆荒涼,未有若歸之甚者。滿目皆茅茨, +惟州宅雖有蓋瓦,緣江負山,偪仄無平地。楚熊繹始封於此,篳路藍 +縷,以啟山林,其後始大,奄有今荊湖數千里之廣。 + +州東五里,有清烈公祠,屈平廟也。秭歸之名,俗傳以屈平被放,其 +姊女嬃先歸,故以名,殆若戲論。好事者或書作此「姊歸」字。 + +倚郭秭歸縣,亦傳為宋玉宅。杜子美詩云:「宋玉悲秋宅。」謂此縣傍 +有酒壚,或為題作「宋玉東家」。 + +屬邑興山縣,王嬙生焉。今有昭君臺、香溪,尚存。城南二里有明妃 +廟。余嘗論歸為州僻陋,為西蜀之最,而男子有屈、宋,女子有昭君。 +閥閱如此,政未易忽。 + +庚申、辛酉。泊歸州。歸故嘗隸湖北,近歲以地望形勢正在峽中,乃 +以屬夔,是矣。而財賦仍隸湖北,歲輸止二萬緡,而一州兩屬,罷於 +奔命,非是。當別撥此緡補湖北而併以歸隸夔,始盡事理。 + +壬戌。泊歸州。水驟退十許丈,沿岸灘石森然,人鮓甕石亦盡出。望 +昨夕繫舟排亭,乃在半山間。移舟近東泊。從船遷徙稍緩,為暗石作 +觸,水入船,幾破敗。 + +癸亥。泊歸州。假郡中小圃,挈孥累暫駐望洋軒。所謂圃者,崖上不 +能兩畝,花竹蕭然。有秭歸、懷忠二小堂。前後山既高且近,堂堂??, +迫而臨之,如欲覆壓。 + +甲子。泊歸州。長文自峽山陸行,暮夜至歸鄉沱渡江,往渡頭迓之。 +余前入蜀時,亦以江漲不可泝,自此路來,極天下之艱險。乃告峽州 +守管鑑、歸州守葉默、倅熊浩及夔漕沈作礪,請略修治。先是過麻線 +堆下,人告余不須登山,有浮屠法寶於山?刊木開路,盡避麻線之厄, +縣尉孫某作小記龕道傍石壁上。余感之,謂一道人獨能辦此,況以官 +司力耶?乃作《麻線堆詩》以遺四君。是時,余改成都路制置使,號 +令不及峽中,故以詩道之。繼而四君皆相聽許,以鹽、米募村夫鑿石 +治梯級,其不可施力者,則改從他塗。除治十六七,商旅遂以通行。 +新制使之來正賴此,然猶歎?行路之難,特不見未修治以前耳。 + +乙丑、丙寅。泊歸州。 + +丁卯。欲解船,而長文固留,復泊歸州。 + +八月戊辰,朔。發歸州。兩岸大石連延,蹲踞相望,頑很之態,不可 +狀名。 + +五里,入白狗峽。山特奇峭,峽左小溪入玉虛洞中,可容數百人。 + +三十里,至新灘。此灘惡名豪三峽,漢、晉時,山再崩,塞江,所以 +後名新灘。石亂水洶,瞬息覆溺,上下欲脫免者,必盤博陸行,以虛 +舟過之。兩岸多居民,號灘子,專以盤灘為業。余犯漲潦時來,水漫 +羨不復見灘,擊楫飛度,人翻以為快。 + +八十里,至黃牛峽。上有洺川廟,黃牛之神也,亦云助禹疏川者。廟 +背大峰,峻壁之上,有黃?如牛,一黑?如人牽之,云此其神也。廟門 +兩石馬,一馬缺一耳,東坡所書歐陽公夢記及詩甚詳。至今人以此馬 +為有靈,甚嚴憚之。古語云:「朝發黃牛,暮宿黃牛。三朝三暮,黃牛 +如故。」言其山岧嶢,終日猶望見之。歐陽公詩中亦引用此語。然余 +順流而下,回首即望斷,「如故」之語,亦好事者之言耳。自此以往, +峽山尤奇,江道轉至黃牛山背,謂之假十二峰。過假十二峰之下,兩 +岸悉是奇峰,不可數計,不可以圖畫摹寫,亦不可以言語形容,超妙 +勝絕,殆有過巫陽處。歐陽公所以泝峽來遊,正不為黃牛廟也。 + +黃牛峽盡,則扇子峽。蝦蟆碚在南壁半山,有石挺出,如大蟆,呿吻 +向江。泉出蟆背山竇中,漫流背上散下。蟆吻垂頤頷間如水簾以下於 +江,時水方漲,蟆去江面纔丈餘,聞水落時,下更有小磯承之。張又 +新《水品》亦錄此泉。蜀士赴廷對,或挹取以為硯水,過此,則峽中 +灘盡矣。 + +三十里,得南岸平地,曰平善?。出峽舟至是皆檥泊,相慶如更生。舟 +師、篙工皆有犒賜,上下歡然。將吏以刺字通賀,不待至至喜亭也。 +舟將至平善壩,青天烈日中,忽大風急雨傾盆。食頃,至壩下,風定 +雨止,晴色如故,若江漬之神相送者。 + +己巳。發平善壩。三十里,早食。時至峽州。登至喜亭。敝甚,不稱 +坡翁之記。州宅有楚塞樓,山谷所名。古語曰:「荊門虎牙,楚之西塞。」 +夷陵即其地。自古以為重鎮。三國時,又為吳之西陵。陸遜以為夷陵 +要害,國之關限。今吳、蜀共道此地,但為蕞爾荒壘耳。 + +郡圃又有爾雅臺,相傳郭景純註《爾雅》於此。臺對一尖峰,曰郭道 +山,景純所居也。 + +夷陵縣有歐陽公草堂一間,亦已圮壞。 + +對江渡即登峽山,陸路之始也。向余入蜀時,以漲江不可泝,自此徒 +行,備嘗艱厄。過渡有甘泉寺,山上有泉及姜詩妻龐氏祠,相傳為湧 +泉躍鯉之地。傍近又有姜詩泉,此地之信否,未可決也。 + +百四十里,至楊木寨,宿。嚮離蜀都至漢嘉,則江之兩岸皆山矣。入 +夔州,則山忽陡高,無不摩雲者。自嘉以來,東西三千里,南北綿?, +以入蕃夷之界,又莫知其幾千里,不知其幾千萬峰,山之多且高大如 +此,然自出夷陵,至是回首西望,則杳然不復一點,惟蒼煙落日,雲 +平無際,有登高懷遠之歎而已。 + +庚午。發楊木寨。八十里,至江陵之枝江縣。四十里,至松滋縣。二 +百十里[43],至荊南之沙頭,宿。沙頭一名沙市。 + +辛未。泊沙頭。道大隄,入城謁諸官。 + +壬申、癸酉。泊沙頭。江陵帥辛棄疾幼安招遊渚官。敗荷剩水,雖有 +野意,而故時樓觀,無一存者。後人作小堂,亦草草。舊對此有絳帳 +臺,今在營寨中,無復遺?。章華臺在城外野寺,亦粗存梗概。詢龍山 +落帽臺,云在城北三十里,一小丘耳。息壤在子城南門外,舊記以為 +不可犯,畚鍤所及,輒復如故,又能致雷雨。唐元和中,裴宙為牧, +掘之六尺,得石樓如江陵城樓狀。是歲,霖雨為災。用方士說復埋之, +一夕如故,舊傳如此。近歲遇旱,則郡守設祭掘之,畚其土於傍,以 +俟報應。往往掘至石樓之簷,而雨作矣。則復以故土還覆之,不聞其 +壤之息也。然掘土而致雨,則辛幼安云:「親驗之而信。」 + +甲戌。泊沙頭。 + +乙亥。移舟出大江,宿江瀆廟前。 + +丙子。發江瀆廟。七十里,至公安縣。登二聖寺。二聖之名,江湖間 +競尚之,即在處佛寺門兩金剛神也。此則遷之殿上。傳記載發?靈異, +大略出於夢應。云是千佛數中最後者,一名婁至德,一名青葉髻。江 +岸喜隤,或時巨足?印其處則隤止。 + +百二十五里,至石首縣對岸宿。縣下石磯,不可泊舟。 + +丁丑。發石首。百七十里,至魯家洑。自此至鄂渚,有兩途。一路遵 +大江,過岳陽及臨湘、嘉魚二縣。岳陽通洞庭處,波浪連天,有風即 +不可行,故客舟多避之。一路自魯家洑入沌。沌者,江傍支流,如海 +之?,其廣僅過運河,不畏風浪。兩岸皆蘆荻,時時有人家。但支港通 +諸小湖,故為盜區;客舟非結伴作氣不可行。偶有鄂兵二百更戍,欲 +歸過荊南,遂以舟載,使偕行。自魯家洑避大江入沌,月明行三十里, +宿。 + +戊寅、己卯。皆早暮行沌中。 + +庚辰。行過所謂百里荒者。皆湖灤茭蘆,不復人?,巨盜之所出沒。月 +色如晝,將士甚武。徹夜鳴艣,弓弩上弦,擊鼓鉦以行,至曉不止。 + +辛巳。晨出大江,午至鄂渚。泊鸚鵡洲前南布堤下。南市在城外,沿 +江數萬家,廛閈甚盛,列肆如櫛。酒壚樓欄尤壯麗,外郡未見其比。 +蓋川、廣、荊、襄、淮、浙貿遷之會,貨物之至者無不售,且不問多 +少,一日可盡,其盛壯如此。 + +監司帥守劉邦翰子宣而下,皆來相見邀飯,皆曰未敢定日。及欲移具 +舟次,余笑曰:「若定日則莫若中秋,張具則莫欲南樓。」眾亦笑許。 + +壬午。晚,遂集南樓。樓在州治前黃鶴山上。輪?高寒,甲於湖外。下 +臨南市,邑屋鱗差。岷江自西南斜抱郡城東下。天無纖雲,月色奇甚。 +江面如練,空水吞吐。平生所遇中秋佳月,似此夕亦有數,況復修南 +樓故事,老子於此,興復不淺也。 + +向在桂林時,默數九年之間,九處見中秋,其間相去或萬里,不勝漂 +泊之歎,嘗作一賦以自廣。及徙成都,兩秋皆略見月。十二年間,十 +處見中秋。去年嘗題數語於大慈樓上,今年又忽至此。通計十三年間, +十一處見中秋,亦可以謂之游子。然余以病丐骸骨,儻恩旨垂允,自 +此歸田園,帶月荷鋤,得遂此生矣。坐中亦作樂府一篇,俾鄂人傳之。 + +水調歌頭 + +細數十年事,十處過中秋。今年新夢忽到,黃鶴舊山頭。老子?中不淺, +此會天教重見,今古一南樓。星漢淡無色,玉鏡獨空浮。 +斂秦煙,收楚霧,熨江流。關河離合南北,依舊照清愁。想見姮娥冷 +眼,應笑歸來霜鬢,空敝黑貂裘。釃酒問蟾兔,肯去伴滄洲。 + +所謂十一處見中秋,今略識於此。始自酉年計之,是年直東觀,戌年 +檥船松江垂虹亭下,亥年泛陽羨罨畫溪,子年守栝蒼,丑年內宿玉堂, +寅年使虜次睢陽,卯年自西掖出泊吳興城外,辰年歸石湖,巳午年帥 +桂林,未、申年帥成都,而今酉年客武昌也。 + +癸未。泊鄂州南樓,月色如昨夜。 + +甲申。泊鄂州。蜀兵遠送者,封樁裹糧之具,至此當盡數貿易,非三 +日不可了,故為之留。 + +統帥李川邀看新寨。鄂營昔皆茇舍,今始易以瓦屋,方畢四分之一。 +登壓雲亭,則前後盡見,周絡井井,甚有條理。將司中又有雅歌、整 +暇二堂,皆面江山,登覽超勝。 + +乙酉、丙戌。泊鄂州。遣送兵之半歸成都。 + +丁亥。風作,不可行。 + +戊子。早解維欲出,江風不已,至暮逾甚,又留一夕。土人云:「江上 +社前後,輒大風數日,謂之社風。上下水船悉不行。」果然。 + +己丑。社風稍緩,解維小泊漢口。漢水自北岸出,清碧可鑑,合大江 +濁流,始不相入。行里許,則為江水所勝,渾而一色。凡水自兩岸出 +於江者皆然。其行緩,故得澄瑩。大江如激箭,萬里奔流,不得不濁 +也。午後風息,通行。百八十里,至三江口,宿。三江之名所在多有, +凡水參會處,皆稱之。 + +庚寅。發三江口。辰時過赤壁,泊黃州臨?亭下。赤壁,小赤土山也。 +未見所謂「亂石穿空」及「蒙茸」、「巉巖」之境,東坡詞賦微夸焉。 + +郡將招集東坡雪堂。郡東山壟重複,中有平地,四向皆有小岡環之。 +東坡卜居時,是亦有取於風水之說。前守鳩材欲作設廳,已而輟作雪 +堂,故稍宏壯。堂東小屋,榜曰東坡,堂前橋亭曰小橋,皆後人旁緣 +命之。對面高坡上,新作小亭曰高寒,姑取《水調》中語,非當時故 +實。然此亭正對東岸武昌數峰,亦登覽不凡處。 + +晚過竹樓,郡治後赤壁山上方丈一間耳。轉至棲霞樓,面勢正對落日, +暉景既墮,晴霞?天末,併染川流,醺黃酣紫,照映下上,蓋日日如此, +命名有旨也。樓之規製甚工,問其人,則曰故相秦申王生於臨?舟中, +黃人作慶端堂於其處,近年撒而作棲霞云。 + +黃岡岸下素號不可泊舟,行旅患之。余舟亦移泊一灣渚中。蓋江為赤 +壁一磯所攖,流轉甚駛,水紋有暈,散亂開合全如三峽。郡議欲開澳 +以歸宿客舟,未決。 + +辛卯。發黃州。四十里,過巴河。水清澈,自北岸入濁流如漢口。通 +行二百三十里,至桐木溝,宿。 + +壬辰。發桐木溝。八十里,至馬頭,宿。 + +癸巳。發馬頭。百二十五里,至江州。泊琵琶亭,前守曹訓子序新作, +通判呂勝己隸書,《琵琶行》刻石左方。 + +甲午。泊江州,登庾樓,前臨大江,後對康廬,背、面皆登臨奇絕。 +又名山大川,悉萃此樓,他處不能兼有,此獨擅之。庾元亮故事,本 +是武昌南樓,後人以元亮嘗刺江州,故亦以庾名此樓。然景物則有南 +樓不逮者。樓下思白堂,正直廬山雙劍峰。相傳此名最不利,郡中每 +二百年輒有兵禍。父老久願更名,而無定論。余欲取東西二林所在, +名之雙林。 + +乙未。泊江州。早出南門,去城百里,至濂溪。溪水闊尋丈,漫流荒 +田中,?為小湖。郡守潘慈明伯龍新作周先生祠堂及小亭於溪上。 + +三十里,至太平興國宮。在聖治峰下,左則香爐、石頂諸峰,右則獅 +子、蓮花諸峰,面對蘄、黃諸山,形勝之地也。宮之尊神曰九天採訪 +使者。唐開元中,見夢玄宗,作廟於此。南唐號升元府,本朝更宮名 +而加號使者曰應元保運。相傳唐創廟時,林木皆浮出江上,命曰神運 +云。紹興初,賊李成破江州,縱兵大掠,焚宮淨盡,所存止外門數間。 +其後道士復修建,惟真君之殿差如法,餘率因陋就寡。從屋在山下及 +澗之外者,今皆灌木生之,猝不可復矣。又道士輩各自開戶牖,荒涼 +之象可掬。 + +入山五里,至東林寺,晉惠遠師道場也。自晉以來,為星居寺,數十 +年前始更十方,樓閣堂殿,奇巧巨麗,然皆非晉舊屋。虎溪涓涓一溝, +不能五尺闊,遠師送客,乃獨不肯過此,過則林虎又為號鳴焉。白蓮 +花亦不復種花,獨遠公與十八賢祠堂,猶榜曰蓮社。山上五杉閣,晉 +杉也。近年為主僧所伐。閣後舍利塔,鳩摩羅什所攜來以瘞者,其屋 +又南唐時所改作。獨聰明泉如故,商仲堪與遠公談《易》處也。 + +凡山之故物,如袈裟、麈扇,皆已不存。承平時獨有晉安帝輦、佛馱 +耶舍革?、謝靈運貝葉經,更李成亂,今皆亡去。成屯此寺,故與西林 +併,得不爇,而唐以來諸刻皆無恙。最可稱者,李邕寺碑,開元十九 +年作。并張又新碑陰,大中十年作。李訥《兀兀禪師碑》,張庭倩書。 +顏魯公題碑之兩側,略云: + +永泰丙午,真卿佐吉州。夏六月,次於東林。仰廬阜之爐峰,想遠公 +之遺烈。升神運殿,禮僧伽衣。觀生法師麈尾扇、謝靈運翻《涅槃經》、 +貝多梵夾,忻慕不足,聊寓刻於張、李二公耶舍禪師之碑側。 + +自魯公題後,世因傳此石為張李碑。又有柳公權《復寺碑》,大中十一 +年作,書法尤遒麗。又有李肇、蔡京、苗紳等碑,皆佳。 + +遠師塔,寺西數十步,晉杉存焉。出虎溪門,隔路有澗從東來,澗上 +峰如屏障,翠樾蒙密,絕似杭之靈隱之飛來峰下。余囑主僧法才作亭, +名曰過溪,呼山夫鋤治作址,一夕畢。僧約以冬初可斷手。自是東林 +增一勝處,而余於山中亦附晉、唐諸賢以不朽矣。 + +寺東北隅有新作白樂天草堂。樂天元和十年為州司馬,作堂香爐峰北 +遺愛寺南,往來遊處焉。後與寺並廢,今所作非元和故處也。 + +遠師塔西即西林寺,惠永師道場也。案:諸碑始於偽趙時竺曇現而成 +於惠永,規摹大略似東林而微小。此地舊名香谷,永先作此寺,遠徙 +而為鄰,號東林,至今稱二林焉。主寺久不得人,廊廡缺壞,榛蔓生 +之,惟殿堂僅存。獨餘主院一僧,余入山時,亦藏逃不見。 + +寺有《西林道場碑》,隋太常博士渤海歐陽詢撰,大業十二年作,而不 +著書人姓名。筆意清潤,微有肉,酷似虞永興,然結字之體,則全是 +率更法。疑詢在隋時作此體,入唐始加勁瘦刻削也。顏魯公題其碑額 +之上,亦以永泰丙午歲遊東林時來。大略謂緬懷遠、現之遺烈,躋重 +閣,觀張僧繇畫佛像、梁武帝蹙綿繡錦囊,因題歐陽公譔永公碑陰。 +然其實乃題碑額之上,非碑陰也。碑陰別有大中時遊人題名,筆法亦 +不凡。 + +還,宿東林。 + +丙申。離東林。飯太平宮前草市中。過清虛庵,在撥雲峰下。晚,入 +城。 + +廬山雖號九屏,然其實不甚深。山行皆繞大峰之足,遠望只一獨山也。 +然比他山為最高,雲繞山腹則雨,雲翳山頂則晴。俗云:「廬山戴帽, +平地安?。廬山繫腰,平地安橋。」此語可與「灩澦如象,瞿唐莫上, +灩澦如馬,瞿唐莫下」為對。 + +九月丁酉,朔。泊江州。風作,終日不行。 + +戊戌。風小止。巳時發江州,回望廬山漸束而高,不復迤邐之狀。過 +湖口,望大孤如道士冠立碧波萬頃中,亦奇觀也。 + +九十里,至交石夾,宿。 + +己亥。發交石夾。東望小孤如艾炷,午後過之。澎浪磯在其南。風起 +波作,又行食頃。通行八十里,泊滶背洲。欲拍馬當,風甚不可前。 +江中有風,則白頭浪作,便不可行。 + +庚子。風未止。強移船數里,至馬當對岸小港中泊。 + +辛丑。風少緩,移舟五六里,風復作波斯夾。泊夾中,浪猶洶湧。 + +壬寅。泊波斯夾。日暮,風息月明,欲行。船人鬨云小龍見於岸側。 +競往觀,則已夜。 + +癸卯。發波斯夾,至皖口。北岸淮山相迎,綿延不絕。灊、皖、瑯琊, +雲物縹緲,生平未曾著?處也。南岸自牛磯、雁汊行幾二百里,至長風 +沙下口,宿。 + +甲辰。發長風沙。百里,午至池州池口。泊望淮亭,去城尚十餘里。 +夜,大風。舟楫搖蕩,通昔不寐。 + +乙巳。泊池州。入城,登九華樓,作重九。風雨陡作,懶至齊山,望 +之數里間。一土山極庳小,上有翠微亭,特以杜牧之詩傳耳。九華稍 +秀出,然不逮所聞。夜移舟出江,?入南湖口,泊非水亭。 + +丙午。離池州。十數里風作,泊清溪口。 + +丁未。泊清溪。九華所謂九峰者,至此始見之。 + +戊申。發清溪。泊長風沙。 + +己酉。發長風沙。入夾行。晚,泊太平州。 + +庚戌。登凌歊臺。臺宋武帝所作,為登臨。往跡更兵燼,重修草草, +道徑亦蕪莽不治,塔寺亦蕭索。 + +辛亥。發太平州。 + +壬子。至建康府。泊賞心亭下。 + +癸丑。集玉麟堂。 + +甲寅、乙卯。泊建康。從留守樞密劉公行視新修外城。自賞心亭渡南 +岸,由舊二水亭基登小輿,轉至伏龜樓基,徘徊四望,金陵山本止三 +面,至此則形勢回互,江南諸山與淮山團圞,應接無復空闕。唐人詩 +所謂「山圍故國周遭在」者,惟此處所見為然。凡遊金陵者,若不至 +伏龜,則如未始遊焉。一城之勢,此地最高,如龜昂首狀。樓之外, +即是坡?綿延,無濠塹,自古為受敵處。相傳曹彬取李煜,自此入也。 + +行城十之九,乃下。登舟至清溪閣,南朝諸人為遊息處,比年修治為 +閣。及小圃傍,有空地,可種植。隸漕司,不可得。自清溪泛舟,還 +集玉麟。 + +丙辰。發建康。 + +丁巳。泊長蘆。襆被宿寺中。此為菩提達磨一葦浮渡處。寺在沙洲之 +上,甚雄傑。江波淙齧,行且及門。寺前舊有居人,今皆蕩去。岸下 +不可泊舟,移在五里所一港中。寺有一葦堂以祠達磨。 + +戊午。開啟法會慶聖節道場。畢,登舟。 + +己未。至鎮江府。閘已閉,運河淺淤,買小舟,盤博,不勝煩勞。 + +庚申、辛酉。泊鎮江。 + +壬戌。發鎮江。久去江、浙,奔走川、廣,乍入舫艋,蕭然有漁釣舊 +想,不知其身之自天末歸也。 + +癸亥。晝夜行。 + +甲子。至常州。 + +乙丑。泊常州。 + +丙寅。發常州。平江親戚故舊來相迓者,陸續於道,恍然如隔世焉。 + +冬十月丁卯,朔。雨中,行不住。 + +戊辰。未至滸墅十里所,泊。 + +己巳。晚,入盤門。 + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Wu Chuanlu, by Fan Chengda + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK WU CHUANLU *** + +***** This file should be named 27581-0.txt or 27581-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + 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