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+Project Gutenberg's An Ohio Woman in the Philippines, by Emily Bronson Conger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: An Ohio Woman in the Philippines
+       Giving personal experiences and descriptions including
+       incidents of Honolulu, ports in Japan and China
+
+Author: Emily Bronson Conger
+
+Release Date: April 20, 2009 [EBook #28580]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OHIO WOMAN IN THE PHILIPPINES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net/
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                    An Ohio Woman in the Philippines
+
+              Giving Personal Experiences and Descriptions
+                    Including Incidents of Honolulu,
+                        Ports in Japan and China
+
+
+
+                       Mrs. Emily Bronson Conger
+
+                      Published with illustrations
+
+
+
+
+                                  1904
+                      Press of Richard H. Leighton
+                              Akron, Ohio
+
+
+
+
+TO HIS DEAR MEMORY.
+
+
+    To my beloved husband,
+        ARTHUR LATHAM CONGER,
+    whose love was--Is my sweetest incentive;
+    whose approval was--Is my richest reward.
+            Mizpah,
+                EMILY BRONSON CONGER.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+                                           PAGES
+
+    Out of the Golden Gate                    7-14
+    First Glimpses of Japan                  15-20
+    From Yokohama to Tokio                   21-25
+    Tokio                                    26-33
+    Japan in General                         34-41
+    In Shanghai                              42-49
+    Hong Kong to Manila                      50-55
+    Iloilo and Jaro                          56-66
+    The Natives                              67-77
+    Wooings and Weddings                     78-82
+    My First Fourth in the Philippines       83-88
+    Flowers, Fruits and Berries              89-92
+    The Markets                              93-95
+    Philippine Agriculture                  96-100
+    Minerals                               101-103
+    Animals                                104-106
+    Amusements and Street Parades          107-110
+    Festivals of the Church                111-114
+    Osteopathy                             115-122
+    The McKinley Campaign                  123-125
+    Governor Taft at Jaro                  126-132
+    Shipwreck                              133-138
+    Filipino Domestic Life                 139-151
+    Islands Cebu and Romblom               152-154
+    Literature                             155-159
+    The Gordon Scouts                      160-162
+    Trials of Getting Home                 163-166
+
+
+
+
+
+
+OUT OF THE GOLDEN GATE.
+
+CHAPTER ONE.
+
+
+With the words ringing out over the clear waters of San Francisco
+Bay as the Steamer Morgan City pulled from the dock, "Now, mother,
+do be sure and take the very next boat and come to me," I waved a yes
+as best I could, and, turning to my friends, said: "I am going to the
+Philippines; but do not, I beg of you, come to the dock to see me off."
+
+I did not then realize what it meant to start alone. I vowed to
+stay in my cabin during the entire trip, but, as we steamed out of
+the Golden Gate, there was an invitation to come forth, a prophesy
+of good, a promise to return, in the glory of the last rays of the
+setting sun as they traced upon the portals, "We shall be back in the
+morning." And so I set out with something of cheer and hope, in spite
+of all the remonstrances, all the woeful prognostications of friends.
+
+If I could not find something useful to do for my boy and for other
+boys, I could accept the appointment of nurse from the Secretary
+of War, General Russell A. Alger. But, if it proved practicable,
+I preferred to be under no obligations to render service, for my
+health was poor, my strength uncertain.
+
+The sail from San Francisco to Honolulu was almost without incident;
+few of the two thousand souls on board were ill at all. They divided
+up into various cliques and parties, such as are usually made up on
+ocean voyages. When we arrived at Honolulu, I did not expect to land,
+but I was fortunate in having friends of my son's, Hon. J. Mott Smith,
+Secretary of State, and family meet me, and was taken to his more
+than delightful home and very generously, royally entertained.
+
+My impressions were, as we entered the bay, that the entire population
+of Honolulu was in the water. There seemed to be hundreds of little
+brown bodies afloat just like ducks.
+
+The passengers threw small coins into the bay, and those aquatic,
+human bodies would gather them before they could reach the bottom.
+
+The city seemed like one vast tropical garden, with its waving palms,
+gorgeous foliage and flowers, gaily colored birds and spicy odors,
+but mingled with the floral fragrance were other odors that betokened
+a foreign population.
+
+It was my first experience in seeing all sorts and conditions of
+people mingling together--Chinese, Japanese, Hawaiians, English,
+Germans and Americans. Then the manner of dress seemed so strange,
+especially for the women; they wore a garment they call halicoes like
+the Mother Hubbard that we so much deride.
+
+We visited the palace of the late Queen, Liliuokalani
+(le-le-uo-ka-lá-ne), now turned into a government building; saw the
+old throne room and the various articles that added to the pomp and
+vanity of her reign. I heard only favorable comments on her career. All
+seemed to think that she had been a wise and considerate ruler.
+
+I noticed many churches of various denominations, but was
+particularly interested in my own, the Protestant Episcopal. The
+Rt. Rev. H. C. Potter, Bishop of New York, and his secretary,
+Rev. Percy S. Grant, were passengers on board our ship, the Gælic. The
+special purpose of the Bishop's visit to Honolulu was to effect
+the transfer of the Episcopal churches of the Sandwich Islands to
+the jurisdiction of our House of Bishops. He expressed himself as
+delighted with his cordial reception and with the ready, Christian-like
+manner with which the Supervision yielded. The success of his delicate
+mission was due, on Bishop Potter's side, to the wise and fraternal
+presentation of his cause and to his charming wit and courtesy.
+
+It was still early morning when my friends with a pair of fine horses
+drove from the shore level by winding roads up through the foot hills,
+ever up and up above the luxuriant groves of banana and cocoanut, the
+view widening, and the masses of rich foliage growing denser below or
+broadening into the wide sugar plantations that surrounded palatial
+homes. We returned for luncheon and I noted that not one house had
+a chimney, that every house was protected with mosquito netting;
+porches, doors, windows, beds, all carefully veiled.
+
+After dinner we again set forth with a pair of fresh horses and drove
+for miles along the coast, visiting some of the beautiful places that
+we had already seen from the heights. The beauty of gardens, vines,
+flowers, grasses, hills, shores, ocean was bewildering. In the city
+itself are a thousand objects of interest, of which not the least is
+the market.
+
+I had never seen tropical fish before, and was somewhat surprised by
+the curious shapes and varied colors of the hundreds and thousands of
+fish exposed for sale. I do not think there was a single color scheme
+that was not carried out in that harvest of the sea. Fruits and flowers
+were there, too, in heaps and masses at prices absurdly low. With the
+chatter of the natives and the shrill cry of the fishermen as they
+came in with their heavily laden boats, the scene was one never to
+be forgotten.
+
+The natives have a time honored custom of crowning their friends at
+leave-taking with "Lais" (lays). These garlands are made by threading
+flowers on a string about a yard and a half long, usually each string
+is of one kind of flower, and, as they throw these "Lais" over the
+head of the friend about to leave, they say or sing, "Al-o-ah-o,
+until we meet again."
+
+This musical score is the greeting of good-day, good-morning, or
+good-bye; always the greeting of friends. They chose for me strings
+of purple and gold flowers. The golden ones were a sort of wax begonia
+and the purple were almost like a petunia.
+
+Instead of sitting on the deck of the steamer by myself, as I had
+purposed, I had one of the most delightful days I have ever spent
+in my life. It was with deep regret, when the boat pulled from the
+wharf, that I answered with the newly acquired song, "Al-o-ah-o,"
+the kindly voices wafted from the shore. We had taken on board many
+new passengers, and were now very closely packed in, so much so,
+that to our great disgust one family, a Chinaman, his wife, children
+and servants, fourteen in number, occupied one small stateroom. It is
+easy to believe that that room was full and overflowing into the narrow
+hallways. Though he had eight or nine children and one or two wives,
+he said he was going to China to get himself one more wife, because the
+one that he had with him did bite the children so much and so badly.
+
+I had never before seen so many various kinds of Chinese people,
+and it was a curious study each day to watch them at their various
+duties in caring for one another and preparing their food. Strange
+concoctions were some of those meals. They all ate with chop-sticks,
+and I never did find out how they carried to the mouth the amount
+of food consumed each day. One day we heard a great commotion down
+in their quarters, and, of course, all rushed to see what was the
+matter. We were passing the spot where, years before, a ship had sunk
+with a great number of Chinese on board. Our Chinese were sending off
+fire crackers and burning thousands and thousands of small papers of
+various colors and shapes, with six to ten holes in each paper. Some
+were burning incense and praying before their Joss. The interpreter
+told us that every time a steamer passes they go through these rites to
+keep the Devils away from the souls of the shipwrecked Chinese. Before
+any Evil Spirit can reach a soul it must go through each one of the
+holes in the burnt papers that were cast overboard.
+
+Bishop Potter asked us one day if we thought those Chinese people
+were our brethren. I am sure it took some Christian charity to decide
+that they were. One of these "brethren" was a Salvation Army man,
+who was married to an American woman. They were living in heathen
+quarters between decks and each day labored to teach the way of
+salvation. Many of these poor people died during the passage; the
+bodies were placed in boxes to be carried to their native land. A
+large per cent. of the whole number seemed to be going home to die,
+so emaciated and feeble were they.
+
+There was fitted up in one of the bunks in the hold of the vessel a
+Joss house. I did not dare to see it, but I learned that there was
+the usual pyramid of shelves containing amongst them the gods of War
+and Peace. Before each god is a small vessel of sand to hold the Joss
+sticks, a perfumed taper to be burned in honor of the favorite deity,
+and there is often added a cup of tea and a portion of rice. There are
+no priests or preachers, but some man buys the privilege of running
+the Joss house, and charges each worshipper a small fee. The devotee
+falls on his knees, lays his forehead to the floor, and invocates
+the god of his choice. Soothsayers are always in attendance, and for
+a small sum one may know his future.
+
+As between Chinese and Japanese, for fidelity, honesty, veracity and
+uprightness, my impression is largely in favor of the Chinese as a
+race. Captain Finch told me that on this ship, the Gælic, over which he
+had had charge for the past fifteen years, he had had, as head waiter,
+the same Chinaman that he started out with, and in all this period
+of service he never had occasion to question the integrity of this
+most faithful servant, who in the entire time had not been absent
+from the ship more than three days in all. On these rare occasions,
+this capable man had left for his substitute such minute instructions
+on bits of rice paper, placed where needed, that the work was carried
+on smoothly without need of supervision or other direction. The same
+holds true of Chinese servants on our Pacific coast. I was much pleased
+with the attention they gave each and every one of us during the entire
+trip; it was better service than any that I have ever seen on Atlantic
+ships. In the whole month's trip, I never heard one word of complaint.
+
+Being a good sailor, I can hardly judge as to the "Peacefulness of
+the Pacific." Many were quite ill when to me there was only a gentle
+roll of the steamer, soothing to the nerves, and the splash of the
+waves only lulled me to sleep.
+
+By day there were many entertainments, such as races, walking matches,
+quoits, and like games. Commander J. V. Bleecker, en route to take
+charge of the Mercedes reclaimed in Manila Bay, was a masterly artist
+in sleight-of-hand performances, and contributed much to the fun.
+
+Often the evenings were enlivened with concerts and
+readings. Col. J. H. Bird, of New York, gave memorized passages from
+Shakespeare--scenes, acts, and even entire plays in perfect voice
+and character. We thought we were most fortunate in the opportunity
+to enjoy his clever rendition of several comedies.
+
+But to one passenger, at least, the best and sweetest ministrations
+of all were the religious services. Bishop Potter took part in all
+wholesome amusements. He was often the director; he was the delightful
+chairman at all our musical and literary sessions; but it was in sacred
+service that his noble spiritual powers found expression. One calm,
+radiant Sunday morning he spoke with noblest eloquence on these words
+of the one hundred thirty-ninth psalm:--
+
+
+    Whither shall I go from thy spirit? or whither shall I flee
+                                                     from thy presence?
+    If I ascend up into heaven thou art there; if I make my bed
+                                        in hell, behold thou art there!
+    If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost
+                                                       part of the sea;
+    Even there shall thy hand lead me and thy right hand shall hold me.
+
+
+Fifteen months later, when wrecked on the coast of Panay, his clear
+voice again sounded in my soul with the assurance, "Even there shall
+thy hand lead me, and thy right hand shall hold me."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FIRST GLIMPSES OF JAPAN.
+
+CHAPTER TWO.
+
+
+But for all our devices to while away the time, the thirty-two days of
+ship life was to all of us the longest month of our lives. The Pacific,
+as Mr. Peggotty says, is "a mort of water," a vast, desolate waste of
+waters from Honolulu to our first landing place, Yokohama. We had a
+wonderful glimpse of the sacred mountain, Fujiyama. The snow-capped
+peak stood transfigured as it caught full the rays of the descending
+sun. Cone-shaped, triangular, perhaps; what was it like, this gleaming
+silhouette against the deep blue sky? Was it a mighty altar, symbol
+of earth's need of sacrifice, or emblem of the unity of the ever
+present triune God? 'Tis little wonder that it is, to the people
+over whom it stands guard, an object of reverence, of worship; that
+pilgrimages are made to its sacred heights; that yearly many lives
+are sacrificed in the toilsome ascent on bare feet, on bare knees.
+
+As we went through Japan's inland sea, one of the most beautiful bodies
+of water on the globe, it seemed, at times, as if we might reach out
+and shake hands with the natives in their curious houses, we passed
+so near to them--the odd little houses, unlike any we had ever seen;
+while about us was every known kind of Japanese craft with curious
+sails of every conceivable kind and shape. On the overloaded boats
+the curious little Japanese sailors, oddly dressed in thick padded
+coverings and bowl caps on their heads, with nothing on limbs and
+feet save small straw sandals, strapped to the feet between great
+and second toes, looked top-heavy.
+
+While I watched all these new things, I was eagerly on the lookout for
+the wreck of the Morgan City, on which my son had sailed. Nothing was
+visible of the ill-fated ship but a single spar, one long finger of
+warning held aloft. As we passed on, watching the busy boats plying
+from shore to shore, the Chinese on the boat chattered and jabbered
+faster with each other than before; we fancied they were making fun of
+their little Japanese brethren. We arrived at Yokohama about 9 P. M.,
+and were immediately placed in quarantine. The next morning a dozen
+Japanese quarantine officers appeared, covered all over with straps
+and bands of gold lace. They looked so insignificant and put on such
+an air of austere authority that one did not know whether to laugh or
+cry at their pomposity. They checked us off by squads and dozens, and
+by 12 o'clock we were ready to land. It was our first touch of Japanese
+soil, and we were about to take our first ride in a Jinricksha. It was
+very beautiful to hear as a greeting, "Ohio." As I had been told by
+a Japanese student, whom I met in Cambridge, Mass., that this is the
+national greeting, I was not unprepared as was a fellow passenger,
+who said, "Oh, he must know where you came from." My height and my
+white hair seemed to make me an object of interest. It was such a
+novel thing to be hauled around in those two-wheeled carts, one man
+pulling at the thills and another pushing at the rear. It is a fine
+experience, and one which we all enjoyed. The whole outfit is hired
+by the day for about a dollar, the price depending upon the amount
+of Pigeon English the leader can speak. The first thing they say to
+you is, "Me can speak English." We found the hotel admirably kept.
+
+The blind Japanese are an interesting class. They are trained at
+government cost to give massage treatment, and no others are allowed
+to practice. These blind nurses, male and female, go about the streets
+in care of an attendant, playing a plaintive tune on a little reed
+whistle in offer of their services. The treatment is delightful,
+the sensation is wholly new, and is most restful and invigorating
+after a long voyage.
+
+No wonder that so many of the Japs are weak-eyed or totally blind. The
+children are exposed to the intense rays of the sun, as, suspended on
+their mothers' backs, they dangle in their straps with their little
+heads wabbling helplessly. From friends who have kept house many years,
+I learned that the service rendered by the Japanese is, as a whole,
+unsatisfactory. Their cooking is entirely different from ours, and
+they do not willingly adapt themselves to our mode of living.
+
+It is not my purpose to tell much about Japan and China; they were only
+stages on the way to the Philippines; and yet they were a preparation
+for the new, strange life there. But such is the charm of Japan that
+one's memories cling to its holiday scenes and life.
+
+The Japanese are really wise in beginning their New Year in spring. The
+first of April, cherry blossom day, is made the great day of all
+the year. There are millions of cherry blossoms on trees larger
+than many of our largest apple trees--wonderful double-flowering,
+beautiful trees, just one mass of pink blossoms as far as the eye
+can reach. They do so reverence these blossoms that they rarely pluck
+them, but carry about bunches made of paper or silk tissue that rival
+the natural ones in perfection. No person is so poor that he cannot,
+on this great festal day, have his house, shop, place of amusement
+or, at least, umbrella bedecked with these delicate blossoms. It is
+almost beyond belief the extent to which they carry this festal day,
+given up entirely to greetings and parades.
+
+Then the wonderful wisteria! In its blossoming time the flower clusters
+hang from long sprays like rich fringe. From the hill-tops the view
+down on the tiny cottages, wreathed with the luxuriant vines, is most
+beautiful. A single cluster is often three feet long. They make cups,
+bowls and plates from the trunk of the vine.
+
+There are marsh fields of the white lotus. The ridges of the heavily
+thatched roofs are set with iris plants and their many hued blossoms
+make a garden in the air.
+
+One should visit Japan from April to November. In the cultivation of
+the chrysanthemum they lay more stress on the small varieties than we
+do; they prefer number to size. The autumn foliage is beautiful beyond
+belief,--vision alone can do it justice. The hillsides, the mountain
+slopes are thickly set with the miniature maples and evergreens;
+the clear, brilliant hues of the one, heightened by contrast with
+the dark green of the other, are strikingly vivid.
+
+The trees and shrubs are surely more gnarled and knotted than they are
+in Christian countries. They are trained in curious fashion. One limb
+of a tree is coaxed and stretched to see how far it can be extended
+from the body of the tree. At first I could not believe that these
+limbs belonged to a stump so far away. The Japanese pride themselves
+on their shrubs and flowers. Nothing gave me more pleasure than
+seeing all this cultivation of the gardens, no matter how small,
+around each home. I did not see a single bit of wood in Japan like
+anything that we have. The veining, color, texture and adaptiveness
+to polish suggest marble of every variety.
+
+At Yokohama I engaged a guide, Takenouchi. I found him to be a faithful
+attendant; his devotion and energy in satisfying my various requests
+was unwearied; I shall ever feel grateful to him. He would make me
+understand by little nods, winks, and sly pushes that I was not to
+purchase, and he would afterwards say: "I will go back and get the
+articles for you for just one-half the price the shop-keeper told
+you." They hope to sell to Americans for a better price than they
+ever get from each other. We went to every kind of shop; they are
+amusingly different from ours. Few things are displayed in the windows
+or on the shelves, but they are done up in fine parcels and tucked
+away out of sight. It is the rule to take two or three days to sit
+at various counters before you attempt to purchase. The seller would
+much rather keep his best things; he tries in every way to induce you
+to take the cheaper ones, or ones of inferior quality. My guide was in
+every way capable and efficient in the selection of fine embroideries,
+porcelain, bronzes, and pictures.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FROM YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO.
+
+CHAPTER THREE.
+
+
+From Yokohama to Tokio, a two hours' ride on the steam cars,
+one is constantly gazing at the wonderful country and its perfect
+cultivation. There are no vast prairies of wheat or corn, but the land
+is divided into little patches, and each patch is so lovingly tended
+that it looks not like a farm but like a garden; while each garden is
+laid out with as much care as if it were some part of Central Park,
+thick with little lakes, artistic bridges and little waterfalls with
+little mills, all too diminutive, seemingly, to be of any use, and
+yet all occupied and all busy turning out their various wares.
+
+I understand they even hoe the drilled-in wheat. The rice, the staple
+of the country, is so cared for and tended that it sells for much
+more than other rice. Imported rice is the common food.
+
+As our guide said, we must go to the "Proud of Japan," Nikko, to see
+the most wonderful temples of their kind in all the world. We took the
+cars at Yokohama for Nikko. It was an all day trip with five changes of
+cars, but every step of the way was through one vast curious workshop
+of both divine and human hands. The railway fare is only two cents a
+mile, first class, and half that, second class; we left the choice
+to our guide. A good guide is almost indispensable. Our faithful
+Takenouchi was proficient in everything; he was valet, courier,
+guide, instructor, purchasing agent, and maid. I never knew a person
+so efficient in every way; he could be attentively absent; he never
+intruded himself upon us in any way. It is impossible to describe
+the wonderful temples! They must be seen to be appreciated and, even
+then, one must needs have a microscope, so minute are the carvings in
+ivory, bronze, and porcelain, inlaid and wrought with gold and silver;
+many of them, ancient though they are, are still marvels of delicate
+lines of the patient labor of the past centuries. One of the gods,
+which was in a darkened temple, had a hundred heads, and the only way
+one could see it was by a little lantern hung on the end of a string
+and pulled up slowly. But even in that dim light we stood awestruck
+before that miracle wrought in stone. No one is allowed to walk near
+this god with shoes upon his feet. Unbelievers though we were, we were
+awed by the colossal grandeur of this great idol. The God of Wind,
+the God of War, the God of Peace, "the hundred Gods" all in line,
+were, when counted one way, one hundred, but in the reverse order
+only ninety-nine. To pray to the One Hundred, it is necessary only
+to buy a few characters of Japanese writings and paste them upon any
+one of the gods, trusting your cause to him and the Nikko.
+
+The bells, the first tones of which came down through that magnificent
+forest of huge trees and echoing from the rocks of that wonderful
+ravine, will ever sound in my ears as an instant call to a reverential
+mood. The solemn music was unlike any tone I had ever heard before;
+now it seemed the peal of the trumpet of the Last Day, now a call
+to some festival of angels and arch-angels. As the first thrills
+of emotion passed, it seemed a benediction of peace and rest; the
+evening's Gloria to the day's Jubilate, for it was the sunset hour.
+
+The next morning we took our guide and three natives to each foreigner
+to assist in getting us up the Nikko mountain. It took from 7 o'clock
+in the morning until 2 in the afternoon to reach the summit. Every
+mountain peak was covered with red, white, and pink azaleas. Our
+pathway was over a carpet of the petals of these exquisite blooms. We
+used every glowing adjective that we could command at every turn of
+these delightful hills, and at last joined in hymns of praise. Each
+alluring summit, as soon as reached, dwindled to a speck in comparison
+with the grandeur that was still further awaiting us. We stopped often
+to let the men rest, who had to work so hard pulling our little carts
+up these steep ascents.
+
+There is a great waterfall in the hills, some two hundred fifty
+feet high, but none of us dared to make the point that gives an
+entire view of it. All we could see added proof of our paucity of
+words to express our surprise that the reputed great wonders of
+this "Proud" were really true. On returning we were often obliged
+to alight and walk over fallen boulders, this being the first trip
+after the extreme winter snows. At one place, being "overtoppled" by
+the weight of my clothes and the cramped position that I had been in,
+I lost my balance and fell down, it seemed to me to be about a mile
+and a half. In a moment there were at least fifty pairs of hands to
+assist me up the mountain side. A dislocated wrist, a battered nose,
+and a blackened eye was the inventory of damages. Such a chattering
+as those natives did set up, while I, with a bit of medical skill,
+which I am modestly proud of, attended to my needs. The day had been
+so full of delights that I did not mind being battered and bruised,
+nor did I lose appetite for the very fine dinner we had at the Nikko
+Hotel, so daintily served in the most attractive fashion by the little
+Japanese maidens in their dainty costumes. In the evening the hotel
+became a lively bazaar. All sorts of wares were spread out before
+us--minute bridges modeled after the famous Emperor's Bridge at this
+place. No person is allowed to walk upon it but His Majesty. The
+story goes that General Grant was invited to cross over upon it,
+but declined with thanks. In returning we drove through that most
+wonderful grove of huge trees, the Cryptomaria, a kind of cedar,
+which rise to a height of one hundred fifty or two hundred feet. I
+may not have the number of feet exactly, but they are so tremendous
+that one wonders if they can really be living Cryptomaria. Indeed,
+much of all Japan seems artificial. Every tiny little house has its
+own little garden, perhaps but two feet square, yet artistically laid
+out with bridges, temples, miniature trees two or three inches high,
+flowers in pots, walks, and little cascades, all too toy-like and
+tiny for any but children. Nearly all of the houses have their little
+temples, and the children have their special gods; little boys have
+their gods of learning and their gods of war. The prayer to the god
+of learning is about like this: "Oh, Mr. God of Learning, won't you
+please help me to learn my lessons, won't you please help me to pass
+my examinations, and Oh, Mr. God of learning, if you will only help
+me pass my examination and to study my lessons and get them well,
+when I get through I will bring you a dish of pickles." This prayer
+was given me by a Japanese student who studied in our country.
+
+We found that nearly every banking house and hotel had for their
+expert accountants and rapid calculators, Chinamen. I finally asked
+one of the proprietors how it happened and he said it was because
+they could trust the Chinese to be more faithful and accurate. On
+the other hand, when we got to Hong Kong we found that the policemen
+were of India, because the Chinese could not be trusted to do justice
+to their fellow men. There was such a difference between the service
+of the coolie Jinricksha men in Hong Kong and in Japan. They did not
+seem so weak or travel-weary, and yet they had often to take people
+on much harder journeys.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TOKIO.
+
+CHAPTER FOUR.
+
+
+Tokio, the capital, with a population almost equal to New York, looks
+like a caricature, a miniature cast such as one sees of the Holy
+Land. The earliest mention of the use of checks in Europe is in the
+latter part of the seventeenth century. The Japanese had already been
+using them for forty years; they had also introduced the strengthening
+features of requiring them to be certified.
+
+Visiting the Rice Exchange in Tokio during a year of famine, when
+subject to wide and sudden fluctuations, it was easy to imagine one's
+self in the New York Stock Exchange, on the occasion of a flurry in
+Wall Street. There was the same seeming madness intensified by the
+guttural sounds of the language, and the brokers were not a whit
+more intelligible than a like mob in any other city. I said to the
+interpreter: "You Japanese have succeeded in copying every feature
+of the New York Stock Exchange." "New York!" he exclaimed, "why, this
+very thing has been going on here in Japan these two hundred years!"
+
+The palace is a long, low building, unattractive in itself, but
+its gardens with every beautiful device of native art, fountains,
+bridges, shrines, fantastically trimmed trees, flowers, winding ways,
+are amazingly artistic.
+
+The Lord High Chamberlain has ordered every civil officer to appear at
+court ceremonies in European dress. It seems such a pity, for they are
+not of the style or carriage to adopt court costumes. One government
+official wanted to be so very correct that he wore his dress suit to
+business. So anxious are they to be thought civilized. There is nothing
+that hurts a gentleman's feelings in Japan more than to hear one say,
+"They have such a beautiful country and when they are converted from
+heathenism it will be ideal." There is a strong Episcopal church and
+college in the capital.
+
+I am not at all prepared to judge the Japanese creeds or modes of
+worship. But one may infer something of what people are taught,
+from their character and conduct. The children honor their parents;
+the women seem obedient to their husbands and masters; and the men
+are imbued with the love of country.
+
+The prevailing religion of Japan is Shintoism, and through the kindness
+of Rev. B. T. Sakai, I will give a bit of his experience. He wished to
+acquire a better knowledge of English and found that Trinity College in
+Tokio could give him the best instruction. He went to this institution,
+pledged that he would not, on any account, become a Christian, and
+assisted in the persecution of his fellow students, who were becoming
+convinced of the truth of Christianity. During the extreme cold
+weather, the institution was badly in need of warmer rooms. Several of
+the students met and decided to make an appeal to the Bishop. They went
+to him, three Japanese boys who were converted and two who were not,
+and told him in very plain language that they would not endure the
+cold in their rooms any longer. The Bishop listened attentively and
+finally said, "Well, young men, you are perfectly right, and I have a
+very good solution of the difficulty. I am an old man and cannot live
+many years, so I will give you my warm room and I will take the cold
+one." He told me that was something new to him, that a person of his
+years and standing should be willing to make so great a sacrifice. He
+said that he could not keep the tears from running down his cheeks,
+and on no account would any of these boys accept the Bishop's proposal;
+he gave them a new idea of Christian charity.
+
+
+
+KOBE AND NAGASAKI.
+
+From Nikko we returned to Yokohama and thence by steamer to Kobe. The
+U. S. Consul, General M. Lyon, and his wife met me. They gave me the
+first particulars of the wreck of the Morgan City. Nothing could
+exceed their kindness during the two days of my stay there. Their
+familiarity with the language, the people, and the shops was a great
+help to me. And when we returned home, I found the little son of my
+hosts the most interesting object of all. Born in Kobe, cared for
+by a native nurse, an ama, as they are called, he spoke no English,
+only Japanese. He was a beautiful child, fair, golden haired, blue
+eyed, and sweet of temper.
+
+The garden of the U.S. Consul at Kobe was a marvel of beauty. There
+was a rumor that the United States government might purchase it. I hope
+so, because it is in a part of the city which has a commanding view of
+the bay, and it is such a joy to see our beautiful flag floating from
+the staff in front of the consulate. No one appreciates the meaning of
+"Our Flag" until one sees it in foreign countries.
+
+I visited the famous Buddhist Temple of Kobe; it was placed in a
+garden and there were hundreds of poor, sore eyed, sickly, dirty
+Japanese people around, and it gave one the impression that this
+temple might have been used for other purposes than worship. In all
+the temples that I visited, I never saw, except in one, anything
+that approached worship, and that was in the Sacred Temple of the
+White Horse, Nagasaki, and an American who had lived there for eight
+years said that I must be mistaken for she had never heard of any
+such doings as I saw. There seemed to be about a dozen priests who
+were carrying hot water which they dipped out of a boiling caldron
+and were sprinkling it about in the temple with curious intonations
+and chantings. They ran back and forth, swishing the water about in a
+very promiscuous manner. I stood at a respectful distance fearing to
+get some of the hot fluid on myself. Meanwhile the White Horse stood
+in the yard well groomed and cared for, little knowing what they were
+doing in his honor. I could not hear of a single place where their
+poor or sick and afflicted were cared for. They may have asylums and
+hospitals, but I never heard of any.
+
+Nagasaki is beautiful for situation. A river-like inlet, reminding
+one of the Hudson river, leads into the broad lake-like harbor. Eight
+or ten of our transports lay at anchor and still there was abundant
+room for the liners and for the little craft plying between this and
+the small ports.
+
+The dock is famous; all our ships in the east put in here for repairs
+if possible.
+
+The high hills circle about the town and bay; they are highly
+cultivated and dotted with the peculiar Japanese house. The native
+house of but one story, is not more than twelve or fourteen feet
+square, and is divided into rooms only by paper screens that may be
+removed at will. The people live out of doors as much as possible,
+or in their arbors. In cold weather a charcoal brazier is set in the
+center of the house. At night each Jap rolls himself in a thickly
+padded mat and lies on the floor with his feet to this "stove."
+
+A party was made up to visit the Concert Hall of the celebrated Geisha
+girls. General and Mrs. Greenleaf and many officers and their wives
+from the transports were of the number. They kindly invited me to
+join them. A sum total of about fifteen dollars is charged for the
+entertainment; each one bears his share of the cost. It was a rainy
+evening, rickshaws were in order. About thirty drew up before the
+Nagasaki Hotel. It was a sight! the funny little carriages, man before
+to pull, man behind to push, gaily colored lantern fore and aft and
+amused Americans in the middle, laughing, singing, and enjoying the
+fun, a strange contrast to the stolid native.
+
+The long line of carriages wound in and out like a snake with shining
+scales. The night was so dark that little was to be seen except the
+firefly lights and the bare tawny legs of the rickshaw men.
+
+It has been said that the Japanese are the soul of music. I am sure
+that no ears are cultivated to endure it. As we entered the rooms
+we were obliged to remove our shoes and put on sandals. Instead of
+sitting down on chairs we took any position we could on the floor mats
+that were placed at our disposal. At the first sound from the throat
+of a famous singer in a staccato "E-E-E-E," we all sprang to our feet
+thinking she was possibly going into some sort of a fit. With a twang
+on the strings of the flattened out little instrument, we subsided,
+concluding that the concert had begun. Then when the others joined
+in, the mingled sounds were not unlike the wail of cats on the back
+fence. The girls themselves looked pretty, in kneeling posture, lips
+painted bright red, hair prettily braided and adorned with artificial
+flowers or bits of jewelry. If they had been quiet they would have
+looked like beautiful Japanese dolls seated on the floor. After several
+"catterwaulings" by the choir, came the dances. It was all a series
+of physical culture movements; the music was rendered in most perfect
+rhythm by two of the girls, it was the poetry of motion. They would
+take pieces of silk and make little bouquets, whirlwinds, and divers
+things; the most beautiful of all was a cascade of water. It was hard
+for us to believe it was not actually a waterfall. It was made of
+unfolding yards of white silk of the most sheer and gauzy kind. From a
+thin package six inches square, there shimmered out a thousand yards--a
+veritable cascade of gleaming water. We were treated to refreshments,
+impossible cakes and tea. We were thankful that we sat near an open
+window that we might throw the cake over our shoulder, trusting some
+forlorn little Japanese who liked it might get it.
+
+The tea is finely powdered dust; the tea maker is supposed to measure
+exactly the capacity of the drinker and to take enough of this finely
+powdered tea to make three and one-half mouthfuls exactly. They do
+it by taking a rare bit of porcelain and holding it in their hands,
+turn it about and talk learnedly of the various, wonderful arts
+of pottery and how many years they have had this certain piece of
+fine porcelain, turning it about in the meantime in their hands
+as they comment on its beauties and qualities, and then take three
+large swallows of the tea and one small sip and then go on talking
+about the wonders of the cup. These cups are anything but what we
+should call tea cups. They are really large bowls, sometimes with
+a cover but more often without. But it is refreshing to drink their
+tea even if one cannot do it à la Jap. Everywhere in Japan you are
+asked to take a cup of tea, in the steam cars, in the shops and by
+the wayside. A Japanese told me that he could tell whether a person
+was educated or not by the manner in which he drank tea. They take
+lessons in tea drinking as we do in any accomplishment we wish to
+acquire. One friend could not resist buying tea pots and pretty cups;
+she had a grand collection after one day of sight-seeing.
+
+Their potteries are not like ours, huge factories, but household
+things. Here and there in a family is an artist who can make a bit
+of porcelain, a few cups, plates, or saucers stamped with his own
+individual mark. The quality varies, of course, with the skill of
+the maker, but the poorest work is beautiful; and one develops an
+insatiate greed to possess this and this and just one more.
+
+The ancient Imari, Satsuma, and the old bits of pottery that have
+been kept in the older families for centuries are, to my mind, the
+most wonderful works of art of the kind in the world; they look with
+pride on the articles of virtu as almost sacred.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+JAPAN IN GENERAL.
+
+CHAPTER FIVE.
+
+
+One of the many objects to attract the eyes of one traveling in
+Japan is the "Torii" or sacred gateway. It is said that once a bird
+from Heaven flew down and alighted upon the earth. Here the first
+gate was erected, the gate of heaven. Its construction, whether it
+be of wood, stone or metal, is ever the same, two columns slightly
+inclined toward each other, supporting a horizontal cross-beam with
+widely projecting ends, and beneath this another beam with its ends
+fitted into the columns; the whole forming a singularly graceful
+construction, illustrating how the Japanese produce the best effects
+with the simplest means. This sacred entrance arches the path wherever
+any Japanese foot approaches hallowed ground. It is, however, over
+all consecrated portals and lands, and does not necessarily indicate
+the nearness of a temple. You find it everywhere in your wanderings,
+over hill and dale, at the entrance to mountain paths, or deep in
+the recesses of the woods, sometimes it is on the edge of an oasis
+of shrubbery, or in the very heart of the rice fields, sometimes in
+front of cliff or cavern. Pass under its arch and follow the path it
+indicates and you will reach--it may be by a few steps, it may be by
+a long walk or climb--a temple sometimes, but more often a simple
+shrine; and if in this shrine you find nothing; close by you will
+see some reason for its being there. There will be a twisted pine or
+grove of stately trees, to consecrate the place and perpetuate some
+memory. Perhaps the way leads to the view of some magnificent panorama
+of land or sea spread out before the gazer who, with adoring heart,
+worships the beauty or the grandeur of his country. Wherever there
+is a Torii, there is a shrine of his religion; and wherever there is
+an outlook over the land of his birth, there is a temple of his faith.
+
+As we left Nagasaki for Shanghai, I noticed on this occasion, as
+on four later visits, the great activity of this port as a coaling
+station. It has an immense trade. Men, women, and children form
+in line from the junk which is drawn alongside of our huge ships,
+and then pass baskets of coal from one to the other. Many of the
+women and girls have babies strapped on their backs, and there they
+stand in line for hours passing these baskets back and forth. As I
+was watching them one day, for I saw them loading many times, for
+some reason not apparent, they all pounced upon one small man, and,
+as I thought, kicked him to pieces with their heavy wooden shoes and
+strong feet. After five minutes of such pummeling, as I was looking
+for a few shreds of a flattened out Japanese, he arose, shook himself,
+got in line, and passed baskets as before.
+
+One day from my comfortable bamboo chair I watched some coolies
+getting some immense timbers out of the bay near where I sat. It
+did not seem possible that these small men could manage those huge
+timbers, which were so slippery from lying in the water that they
+would often have to allow them to slip back, even after they had
+got them nearly on land. I expected every moment to see those poor
+creatures either plunge into the water themselves or be crushed by
+the weight of the heavy timbers; and while I watched for about two
+hours they must have taken out about twenty or thirty logs, twenty
+or twenty-five feet long and two feet through. I often watched the
+coolies unloading ships. Two of them would take six or eight trunks,
+bind them together, run a heavy bamboo pole through the knotted ends
+and away they would go. I never saw a single person carding what we,
+in America, pride ourselves so much on, "a full dinner pail." They
+did not even seem to have the pail.
+
+There are horses in Japan and they are poor specimens compared with
+the fine animals that we know. They are chiefly pack-horses, used in
+climbing over the mountains, consequently they go with their noses
+almost on the ground. Instead of iron shoes they have huge ones made
+of plaited straw. They are literally skin and bones, these poor beasts
+of burden.
+
+Horses may be judged, in part, by the mouth; but the Japs may be wholly
+judged by the leg. It did distress me to ride after a pair of legs
+whose calves were abnormally large, whose varicose veins were swollen
+almost to bursting. As a rule, the men trot along with very little
+effort and, seemingly, have a very good time. They cheerfully play
+the part of both horseman and horse, of conductor, motineer and power.
+
+I never could get used to the number of Jinrickshas drawn up in front
+of the railroad station, and as it is the only way to get about the
+country, I accepted it with as good a grace as I could. At a large
+station there may be hundreds of rickshaws and double hundreds of
+drivers, all clamoring as wildly as our most aggressive cabmen. They
+wave their hands frantically, crying, "Me speak English! Me speak
+English! Me speak English!"
+
+They knew originally, or have learned of foreigners, how to cheat in
+Japan as elsewhere. One often needs to ask, "Is this real tortoise
+shell?" The answer, even if imitation, is "Now, this is good; this
+is without flaw." I found it of great advantage, as far as possible,
+to keep the same men, and they became interested, not only in taking
+me to better places, but in assisting me in procuring articles, not
+only of the best value, but at Japanese prices. It is never best to
+purchase the first time you see anything, even if you want it very
+badly. I secured one Satsuma cup that has a thousand faces on it. It
+is very old, very wonderfully exact, and a work of very great art. It
+took me several days to purchase it, as the man was very loath to
+part with it, and at the end I got it for very much less than I was
+willing to give the first day.
+
+They do not seem to have any day of rest--all shops are open seven days
+of the week. All work goes on in the same unbroken round. Indeed, from
+the time I left San Francisco until my return, it was hard for me to
+"keep track" of Sunday, even with the almanac I carried; and when I
+did chase it down, I involuntarily exclaimed, "But today is Saturday
+at home; the Saturday crowds will parade the streets this evening;
+the churches will not be open until tomorrow morning."
+
+I learned here that the average wages of a laboring man, working
+from dawn to dark, is about seven cents a day of our money. The men
+do much of the menial service, much of the delicate work, too. The
+finest embroidery, with most intricate patterns and delicate tracings
+in white and colors, is done by men. Two will work at the frame, one
+putting the needle through on his side, and the other thrusting it
+back. In that way the embroideries are alike on both sides, except
+the work which is to be framed. They are so very industrious that
+they very rarely look up when anyone is examining their work.
+
+As I was watching some glass blowers, the little son of one raised
+his eyes from the various intricate bulbs that he was handing to
+his father and gave him the wrong color. Without a word of warning
+the father gave him a severe stroke with the hot tube across the
+forehead, which left a welt the size of my finger. Without one cry
+of pain he immediately handed his father the correct tube and went
+on with his work as if nothing had happened. I had intended to buy
+that very article, but it would have meant to me the suffering it
+cost the child, and I would not have taken it if it had been given me.
+
+Sanitary conditions, as far as I could judge, were bad. The houses,
+in the first place, are very small. I understand they are made small
+on account of earthquakes. It is said that the whole of Japan is in
+one quake all the time. They have shocks daily, hence, the houses
+are only one story high.
+
+I attended an auction of one of the finest collections of works of
+art that had ever been placed before the public. The only way we
+could tell that many of these works were especially choice was by the
+number of elegantly dressed Japanese who were bending before them in
+admiration. One could see that, as a whole, it was a collection of
+rare things. The books and pictures were the most interesting. One
+picture, "White Chickens," on white parchment was very artistic. It
+did not seen possible that these white feathered fowls could so
+nearly resemble the live birds in their various attitudes and sizes,
+for there were about twelve from the smallest chick to the largest
+crowing chanticleer of the barn yard. Another picture was of fish,
+which was so exact that one could almost vow that they were alive
+and ready to be caught. Indeed, one of the fish was on the end of
+the line with the hook in his mouth, and his resistance was seen from
+the captive head to the end of the little forked tail. They excel in
+birds, butterflies and flowers; and one knows the full meaning of the
+"Flowery Kingdom" of both China and Japan as one travels about. One
+sees in the public parks notices posted, "Strangers do not molest or
+capture the butterflies." For nowhere, except in this Oriental country,
+are the butterflies so gorgeously magnificent.
+
+Japan is truly a land of umbrellas and parasols. With frames made of
+the light, delicate bamboo, strands woven closely and then either
+covered with fine rice paper or silk, they are ready for rain or
+sunshine. They all carry them. The markets are the most attractive
+that one could imagine, but after hearing of the means used to enrich
+the soil, it is impossible to enjoy any fruit or vegetable. In all
+the towns are the native and the European quarters. In the latter one
+can have thoroughly good accommodations; the service and attendance
+are excellent.
+
+At one place on the coast of Japan there is cormorant fishing. Men go
+in small boats with flaring torches, hundreds of them. The birds with
+their long bills reach down into the water and pick up a huge fish,
+then the master immediately takes it out of the bill, before it can
+be swallowed, and places it in his boat for market. These birds in
+a single evening get thousands of fish. I suppose they are rewarded
+at the end of their service by being allowed to fish for themselves.
+
+Kite flying is a favorite pastime; the size, shape, and curious
+decorations are astonishing. They have fights with their kites up in
+the air, and there is just as much excitement over these kite games
+as we ever have over foot-ball. They go into paroxysms of joy when
+the favorite wins. There are singing kites and signal kites and a
+hundred other kinds.
+
+I saw no children indulging in any games on the streets. As soon
+as they are able to carry or do anything at all they seem to be
+employed. I could not but think that most of the Japanese children
+are unhealthy. Every one of them had sore eyes. Small of statue,
+the children seemed too small to walk, and yet those that looked
+only seven or eight years old would, invariably, have each a baby
+strapped on his back, and the poor little creatures would go running
+about with the small human burdens dangling as they could.
+
+There is one delightful thing about the people, as a whole, their
+attentive, courteous manners; their solicitude to assist you in
+whatever they can. They are a domestic and thrifty little race, the
+men doing by far the larger part of the work. The enormous burdens
+that these little mites of humanity can pick up and carry are an
+increasing wonder.
+
+In visiting Japan, it is convenient to make Yokohama one's headquarters
+for the northern part of the kingdom, Nagasaki for the southern
+part, and Kobe for the central part; and from these centers to take
+excursions to the various points of interest.
+
+My first visit was brief, for I still clung to the Gælic, moving when
+she moved, and stopping at her ports according to her schedule. But
+I returned and made a stay of many months, exploring at leisure the
+more important or attractive places. I have gathered together in this
+rambling account the various observations and impressions of these
+various visits, and have tried to unite them into one story.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+IN SHANGHAI.
+
+CHAPTER SIX.
+
+
+But it is time to bid Japan good-bye and sail for China. It is a
+three days' voyage from Nagasaki to Shanghai. We left the ship at the
+broad mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang and in a small river boat went up
+a tributary to Shanghai, a distance of twelve miles.
+
+I was met at the dock by our Consul General, John Goodnow, and his
+wife, with their elegantly liveried coachman, and was taken to the
+consulate, and, after a fine tiffin (lunch), we started for the walled
+city. A shrinking horror seized me as if I were at the threshold
+of the infernal regions as we crossed the draw bridge over the moat
+and entered the narrow gate of the vast city of more than a million
+souls. Immediately we were greeted by the "wailers" and lepers,--this
+was my first sight of the loathsome leprosy. Our guide had supplied
+himself with a quantity of small change. Twenty-five cents of our money
+made about a quart of their small change. A moment later we met the
+funeral cortege of a rich merchant. First came wailers and then men
+beating on drums; then sons of the deceased dressed in white (white
+is their emblem of mourning); then the servants carrying the body on
+their shoulders. More wailers followed, then came the wives. It made
+a strange impression.
+
+The streets are so very narrow that we had to press our bodies close
+against the wall to keep from being crushed as the procession passed
+us. We heard the tooting of a horn. Our guide said, "Here comes the
+Mandarin." We began to press ourselves into a niche in the wall
+to watch him pass. First came the buglers, then the soldiers and
+last the gayly-bedecked Mandarin carried in a sedan chair on the
+shoulders of six coolies. He looked the very picture of the severe
+authority that he is invested with. They say that he has witnessed
+in one day the execution of five hundred criminals. He was obliged
+to put a mark on each one's head with his own fingers, and, after
+the head was severed from the body, to remark it in proof of the
+exactness of his work. I was glad when I had seen the last of him,
+though it is only to go from bad to worse.
+
+In the opium dens, hundreds of people, of both sexes, of various ages,
+kinds and colors, were reclining in most horrible attitudes. One
+glimpse was enough for me.
+
+From this place we entered the temple. One of our guides said he was
+obliged to buy joss-sticks and kneel before the gods or it would make
+us trouble, because they are watchful of what foreigners do. They
+consider us white devils. We saw a war god nine feet high mounted on
+a war steed one foot high, a child's woolly toy. There were placed
+before the gods about six or eight cups of tea and hundreds of fragrant
+burning tapers.
+
+At one point our hearts failed us. We came to a dark bridge; it looked
+so forbidding with its various windings, so frail in structure, so
+thronged, that we were timid about stepping upon it. Being assured
+that it was safe we ventured across. While it shook under our weight,
+we did not fall into the filthy frog-pond beneath.
+
+When we reached the center, there were a number of sleight-of-hand
+performers who were doing all sorts of curious things; bringing out of
+the stone pavement living animals, bottles of wine, bits of porcelain,
+and cakes, too filthy looking even to touch.
+
+There were for sale numbers of beautiful birds in cages and wonderful
+bits of art of most intricate patterns and exquisite fineness. We
+saw beautiful pieces of brocaded silk and satin on little hand-looms,
+made by these patient, ever working people, who only have one week in
+the year for rest. There does not seem to be any provision made for
+night or rest, and each Chinaman looks forward to this one holiday
+week in which he does no work whatever, and in which he must have
+all the money ready to pay every debt he owes or be punished.
+
+I did not learn how much the average Chinaman gets for a day's wages,
+but I know that one of my friends sent a dozen linen dresses to be
+laundried, and that the charge was thirty-six cents. To be sure a
+satin dress that she sent to be cleaned was put in the tub with the
+rest. In the markets were impossible looking sausages, dried ducks,
+and curious frogs. In China, as in Japan, each individual has his
+own little table about two feet long, fourteen inches wide and six
+or eight inches high,--not unlike a tray.
+
+Their religion is centuries old, but if cleanliness be next to
+godliness, they are still centuries away from Christian virtues. The
+vast city crowded from portal to portal is one seething mass of
+living beings pushing, hustling, and silent. With the exception of a
+soothsayer, I did not see in an entire day two people talking together,
+so intent were they on their various duties.
+
+It was a joy to get out of the native into the European parts of
+Shanghai and feel safe; and yet there was not a single thing, upon
+thinking it over, that one could say was alarming, not a disrespectful
+look from any one. I said upon reaching the outer gate, "Thank God,
+we are out of there alive and safe." It was the first experience only
+to be renewed with like scenes and impressions at Canton, with the
+same thankfulness of heart, too, for escape.
+
+Our guide told us that he would be in no way responsible for anything
+that might happen in traveling about Canton. The land and its people
+are a marvel and a mystery; the great wonder is how all this vast
+multitude can be reached and helped.
+
+The rivers teem with all sorts of junks filled with all sorts of
+wares going to market, and it was upon the quays that we found for
+sale the finest carved things, the richest embroideries, the most
+delicately wrought wares. The monkey seems to be a favorite subject
+with the artist. Look at these exquisite bits of carved ivory. This
+one is the god monkey who sees no evil, his hands cover his eyes;
+this one is the god monkey who hears no evil, his hands cover his
+ears; and this one is the god monkey who speaks no evil, his hands
+cover his mouth. Half ashamed of our own dullness an old lesson came
+back with new significance,--be blind, deaf, and dumb towards evil.
+
+One curiously wrought specimen of art was an inkwell encircled by
+nine monkeys. In the center, on the lid, was the finest monkey of all;
+the diversity of bodily attitudes, the variety of facial expressions,
+and the perfection of all was wonderful. Temple cloths, with pictures
+of various gods embroidered in fine threads of gold, were marvels of
+patient labor.
+
+We once entertained at our home in Akron a converted Chinaman who had
+come to Gambier, Ohio, to study for the ministry. After the lapse of
+many years his son came to Ohio to be educated. It was interesting
+to hear him tell of the ways and customs of his native land. I asked
+him about servants being so very cheap, and he informed me that
+good servants might not be considered so cheap. The best families,
+according to the value they place upon the friendship of their friends,
+pay for every present received a certain per cent. of its value to
+their servants; and at every birthday of any member of the family,
+every wedding, every birth and death, there are hundreds of presents
+exchanged. I saw many servants in the large cities carrying these
+various gifts, and some of the servants were dressed very well,
+having, on the garments they wore, the coat-of-arms or rank of their
+master. On a little table or tray was placed the richly embroidered
+family napkin with the gift neatly wrapped therein, and on both sides
+were placed lighted tapers or artificial flowers.
+
+As with Shanghai so with all the coast towns of China, there is the
+old walled city swarming with millions of natives, and the new or
+European city as modern as New York. My two days' stay seemed like
+two weeks, so full was it of strange sights.
+
+On returning to the Gælic, I was pleased to find that two Americans
+had been added to our passenger list. Indeed, it was the last of
+the many kindly offices of Mr. Goodnow to introduce me to Rev. and
+Mrs. C. Goodrich. These new friends were delightful traveling
+companions. For a longer stay at Hong Kong and a much better boat to
+Manila, I was indebted to their thoughtfulness for me.
+
+We were told that we must all get in position to watch the entrance
+at Hong Kong. Captain Finch said that for fifteen years he always went
+down from the bridge as soon as he could to see the wonderful display
+of curious junks and craft of every conceivable kind that swarmed
+about the boat, some advertising their wares, some booming hotels, some
+fortune-telling in hieroglyphics which only the Chinese can interpret.
+
+Before our boat dropped anchor there were hundreds of Celestials
+climbing up the sides of the ship with all kinds of articles for
+sale. There were sleight-of-hand performers, there were tumblers of
+red looking stuff to drink; there were trained mice and rats. We had
+a man on shipboard who was very clever with these sleight-of-hand
+tricks, but he said he could not see where they got a single one of
+the reptiles and articles that they would take out of the ladies'
+hands, their bonnets, and his own feet, which were bare.
+
+The city of Hong Kong is built upon a rock whose sides are almost
+vertical. The city park is considered one of the finest in the
+world. It has been said that every known tree and shrub is grown there;
+and when one considers that every foot of its soil has been carried
+to its place, the wonder is how it has all been done. The blossoms
+seem to say, "The whole world is here and in bloom." The banyan tree
+grows here luxuriantly and is a great curiosity. The main trunk of
+the tree grows to the height of about thirty or forty feet. The first
+branches, and indeed many of the upper branches, strike down into the
+ground. These give the trees the appearance of being supported on huge
+sticks. As to the bamboo, it is the principal tree of which they build
+their houses, and make many articles for export in the shape of woven
+chairs, tables, and baskets of most intricate and beautiful designs,
+most reasonable in price. The first shoots in spring are used as food
+and make a delicious dish. It is prepared like cauliflower. Our much
+despised "pussley" proves to be a veritable blessing here; it makes
+a nice green or salad.
+
+China seemed like one vast graveyard, full of huge mounds from three
+to five feet high, without special marking. Each family knows where
+its own ancestors are buried. One of the reasons why they oppose the
+building of railroads through their country is their reverence for
+these burial piles.
+
+One of the very best missionary establishments that I know anything
+about is the hospital in Shanghai. The institution is full to
+overflowing and the amount of good that the nurses do there is beyond
+human measure. I heard pathetic stories almost beyond belief; I hope
+that the grand workers in that field are supplied with all they need
+in the way of money.
+
+Servants seldom remain at night in the house of their employers or
+partake of the food that is prepared for the household. The rich enjoy
+pleasure trips on the house-boats; they take their servants, horses,
+and carriages with them, and leaving the river at pleasure they journey
+up through the country to the inland towns. One cannot understand
+how the poor exist as they do on their house-boats. Of course,
+those hired by the Americans and English are well appointed, but a
+large proportion of the inhabitants are born, live, and die on these
+junks which do not seem large enough to hold even two people and yet
+multitudes live on them in squalor and misery. I have a great respect
+for the determination of Chinese children to get an education. It
+is truly wonderful that with more than fifty thousand characters to
+learn, they ever acquire any knowledge. Some of the scholars study
+diligently all their lives, trying to the last to win prizes.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+HONG KONG TO MANILA.
+
+CHAPTER SEVEN.
+
+
+From Hong Kong to Manila we were fortunate in being upon an Australian
+steamer which was very comfortable, indeed, with Japanese for
+sailors and attendants. At last I was in the tropics and felt for the
+first time what tropical heat can be; the sun poured down floods of
+intolerable heat. The first feeling is that one can not endure it;
+one gasps like a fish out of water and vows with laboring breath,
+"I'll take the next steamer home, oh, home!" It took four days to reach
+Manila. The bay is a broad expanse of water, a sea in itself. The city
+is a magnificent sight, its white houses with Spanish tiled roofs,
+its waving palms, its gentle slopes rising gradually to the mountains
+in the back ground.
+
+The waters swarmed with craft of every fashion and every country. How
+beautiful they looked, our own great warships and transports! No large
+ship can draw nearer to shore than two or three miles. All our army
+supplies must be transferred by the native boats to the quartermaster's
+department, there to be sorted for distribution to the islands where
+the troops are stationed. This necessitates the reloading of stores on
+the boats, to be transferred again to medium sized vessels to complete
+their journey. A volunteer quartermaster told me, that, on an average,
+every seventh box was wholly empty and the contents of the other six
+were rarely intact. The lost goods sometimes reappeared on native
+heads or backs. Coal oil was in demand, and disappeared with amazing
+celerity; it is far better for lights than cocoanut oil.
+
+Custom house inspection being quickly over, we landed. The beauty of
+the distant view was instantly dispelled; one glance and there was a
+wild desire to take those dirty, almost nude creatures in hand and,
+holding them at arm's length, dip them into some cleansing caldron. The
+sanitary efforts of our army are effecting changes beyond praise both
+in the people and their surroundings.
+
+A little two wheeled quielas (ké-las) drawn by a very diminutive
+horse took me to the Hotel Oriente, since turned into a government
+office. I noticed that the floors were washed in kerosene to check
+the vermin that else would carry everything off bodily. The hotel
+was so crowded that I was obliged to occupy a room with a friend,
+which was no hardship as I had already had several shocks from new
+experiences. We had no sooner sat down to talk matters over than I
+started up nervously at queer squeaks. My friend remarked, "Never mind,
+you will soon get used to them, they are only lizards most harmless,
+and most necessary in this country." The beds in our room were four
+high posters with a cane seat for the mattress, a small bamboo mat, one
+sheet, and one pillow stuffed with raw cotton and very hard. As we were
+tucked in our little narrow beds mosquito netting was carefully drawn
+about us. "Neatly laid out," said one. "All ready for the morgue,"
+responded the other.
+
+The next morning we watched with interest the carabao as they were
+taken from the muddy pools in which they had found shelter for the
+night. The natives begin work at dawn and rest two or three hours in
+the middle of the day. It seemed to me too hot for any man or beast
+to stir.
+
+When a large drove of carabao are massed together it seems inevitable
+that they shall injure each other with their great horns, six or
+eight feet long but fortunately they are curved back. Strange, too,
+I thought it, that these large animals should be driven by small
+children--my small children were really sixteen to twenty years old.
+
+We ventured forth upon this first morning and found a large cathedral
+close by. It was all we could do to push our way through the throng
+of half-naked creatures that were squatting in front of the church
+to sell flowers, fruits, cakes, beads, and other small wares.
+
+We pressed on through crooked streets out toward the principal shopping
+district, but soon found it impossible to go even that short distance
+without a carriage, the heat was so overpowering. We turned to the
+old city, Manila proper, passed over the drawbridge, and under the
+arch of its inclosing wall, centuries old.
+
+We went to the quartermaster's department to get transportation
+to Iloilo. It gave a delightful feeling of protection to see our
+soldiers in and about everywhere. At this time Judge William H. Taft
+had not been made governor; the city was still under military rule, and
+there were constant outbreaks, little insurrections at many points,
+especially in the suburbs. We were surprised to find the city so
+large and so densely populated.
+
+It is useless to deny that we were in constant fear even when
+there were soldiers by. The unsettled conditions gave us a creepy
+feeling that expressed itself in the anxious faces and broken words
+of our American women. One would say, "Oh I feel just like a fool,
+I am so scared." Another would say, "Dear me, don't I wish I were
+at home,"--another, "I just wish I could get under some bed and
+hide." But for all their fears they stayed, yielding only so far as
+to take a short vacation in Japan. There is not much in the way of
+sight seeing in Manila beyond the enormous cathedrals many of which
+were closed. About five o'clock in the afternoon everybody goes to
+the luneta to take a drive on the beach, hear the bands play, and
+watch the crowds. It is a smooth beach for about two miles. Here are
+the elite of Manila. The friars and priests saunter along, some in
+long white many-overlapping capes, and some in gowns. Rich and poor,
+clean and filthy, gay and wretched, gather here and stay until about
+half-past six, when it is dark. The rich Filipinos dine at eight.
+
+The social life in Manila, as one might suppose, was somewhat
+restricted for Americans. The weather is so enervating that it is
+impossible to get up very much enthusiasm over entertainments. During
+my stay in Manila, in all, perhaps two months, there was little in
+the way of social festivity except an occasional ball in the halls
+of the Hotel Oriente, nor did the officers who had families there
+have accommodations for much beyond an occasional exchange of dinners
+and lunches.
+
+The Americans, as a rule, did not take kindly to either entertaining
+or being entertained by natives, and besides they could not endure
+the heavy, late dinners and banquets.
+
+At one grand Filipino ball (bailie) an eight or ten course dinner was
+served about midnight. The men and women did not sit down together at
+this banquet, the older men ate at the first table, then the older
+women, then the young men, lastly the young women. After the feast
+there were two or three slow waltzes carried on in most solemn manner,
+and then came the huge task of waking up the cocheroes (drivers)
+to go home. While everything was done in a quick way according to
+a Filipino's ideas, it took an hour or two to get ready. The only
+thing that does make a lot of noise and confusion is the quarreling of
+Filipino horses that are tethered near each other. I thought American
+horses could fight and kick, but these little animals stand on their
+hind legs and fight and strike with their fore feet in a way that is
+alarming and amusing. They are beset day and night with plagues of
+insects. No wonder they are restless.
+
+The Bilibid Prison in Manila is the largest in the Philippines, and
+contains the most prisoners. The time to see the convicts and men is
+at night when they are on dress parade. Of the several hundred that I
+saw, I do not think that anyone of them is in there for other than just
+cause. They are made to work and some of them are very artistic and do
+most beautiful carvings on wood, bamboo and leather. It is very hard
+now to get any order filled, so great a demand has been created for
+their handi-work. I could not but notice the manner of the on-lookers
+as they came each day to see those poor wretches. They seemed to have
+no pity; and then, there were very few women who were prisoners. I do
+not remember seeing more than three or four in each of the five prisons
+that I visited. Orders were taken for the fancy articles made in these
+prisons. One warden said he had orders for several months' work ahead.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ILOILO AND JARO.
+
+CHAPTER EIGHT.
+
+
+We went from Manila to Iloilo on a Spanish steamer. I gave one look at
+the stateroom that was assigned to me and decided to sleep on deck in
+my steamer chair. I had been told that I positively could not eat the
+food which the ship would prepare, so I took a goodly supply with me.
+
+The captain was so gracious that I could not let him know my plans,
+so I pleaded illness but he ordered some things brought to me. There
+was a well prepared chicken with plenty of rice but made so hot
+with pepper that I threw it into the sea; next, some sort of salad
+floating in oil and smelling of garlic, it went overboard. Eggs
+cooked in oil followed the salad; last the "dulce," a composition of
+rice and custard perfumed with anise seed oil, made the menu of the
+fishes complete. I now gladly opened my box of crackers and cheese,
+oranges, figs and dates.
+
+As the sun declined, I sat watching the islands. We were passing
+by what is known as the inner course. They lay fair and fragrant as
+so many Edens afloat upon a body of water as beautiful as any that
+mortal eyes have ever seen. Huge palms rose high in air, their long
+feathery leaves swaying softly in the golden light. Darkness fell
+like a curtain; but the waters now gleamed like nether heavens with
+their own stars of phosphorescent light.
+
+On the voyage to Japan, a fellow passenger asked if I were sure that
+Iloilo was my destination in the Philippines and, being assured that
+it was, informed me that there was no such place on the ship's maps,
+which were considered very accurate. The Island of Panay was there,
+but no town of Iloilo.
+
+Iloilo (é-lo-é-lo) is the second city in size of the Philippines. It
+stands on a peninsula and has a good harbor if it were not for the
+shifting sands that make it rather difficult for the large steamers
+to come to the wharf and the tide running very high at times makes
+it harder still. There is a long wharf bordered with huge warehouses
+full of exports and imports. Vast quantities of sugar, hemp and
+tobacco are gathered here for shipment. It is a center of exchange,
+a place of large business, especially active during the first years
+of our occupation.
+
+Immense caravan trains go out from here to the various army posts to
+carry food and other supplies, while ships, like farm yards adrift,
+ply on the same errand between port and port. Cebu and Negros are
+the largest receiving stations.
+
+In the center of the town is the plaza or park. Here, after getting
+things in order, a pole was set, and the stars and stripes unfurled to
+the breeze. The quarters of our soldiers were near the park and so our
+boys had a pleasant place to lounge when off duty in the early morning
+or evening. When our troops first landed here in 1898 there was quite a
+battle, but I am not able to give its details. The results are obvious
+enough. The native army set fire to the city before fleeing across
+the river to the town of Jaro (Hár-ro). The frame work of the upper
+part of the buildings was burned but the walls or lower part remains.
+
+After the battle at Jaro, I went out to live for awhile in the quarters
+of Captain Walter H. Gordon, Lieutenant J. Barnes, and Lieutenant
+A. L. Conger, 18th U. S. A. I soon realized that the war was still on,
+for every day and night, the rattle of musketry told that somewhere
+there was trouble.
+
+One day I went out to see the fortifications deserted by the
+Filipinos. They were curious indeed; built as an officer suggested, to
+be run away from, not to be defended. One fortification was ingeniously
+made of sacks of sugar. Everywhere was devastation and waste and
+burned buildings. The natives had fled to distant towns or mountains.
+
+All this sounds bad and looked worse, and yet it takes but a little
+while to restore all. The houses are quickly rebuilt; a bamboo roof
+is made, it is lifted to the desired height on poles set in or upon
+the ground. The walls are weavings of bamboo or are plaited nepa. The
+nepa is a variety of bamboo grown near shallow sea water. When one
+of these rude dwellings is completed, it is ready for an ordinary
+family. They do not use a single article that we consider essential
+to housekeeping. Some of the better class have a kind of stove;
+its top is covered with a layer of sand or small pebbles, four or
+five inches thick; on this stand bricks or small tripods to hold
+the little pots used in cooking. Under each pot is a tiny fire. The
+skillful cook plays upon his several fires as a musician upon his
+keys, adding a morsel of fuel to one, drawing a coal from another;
+stirring all the concoctions with the same spoon. The baking differs
+only in there being an upper story of coals on the lid.
+
+It has been said that fools rush in where angels fear to tread. Two
+or three of us American women, eager to learn all we could, because
+we were daily told that the war was over and we should soon be going
+home, were rashly venturesome. But we soon found that it was unsafe to
+go about Molo or Iloilo even with a guide, and so we had to content
+ourselves with looking at the quantities of beautiful things brought
+to our door. We were tempted daily to buy the lovely fabrics woven
+by the native women. Every incoming ship is beset by a swarm of small
+traders who find their best customers amongst American women. Officers
+and men, too, are generous buyers for friends at home. The native
+weaves of every quality and color are surprisingly beautiful.
+
+Jusa (hoó-sa) cloth is made from jusi fibre; piña (peen-yah) from
+pineapple fibre; cinemi is a mixture of the two; abaka (a-ba-ka) from
+hemp fibre; algodon from the native cotton; sada is silk; sabana is
+a mixture of cotton and hemp.
+
+We visited many of the places where the most extensive weaving is done,
+and there we saw the most wretched-looking, old women handling the
+hair-like threads. Each one had by her side some emblem of the Roman
+Church as she sat at her daily task. These poor, dirty, misshapen
+creatures, weaving from daylight to dark, earn about fifty cents
+a month. So many of the women are deformed and unclean, both the
+makers and the sellers, that it seemed utterly incongruous that they
+should handle the most delicate materials. In all my observations,
+I saw but one nice, clean woman of the lower classes. In our happy
+country we do not think of seeing a whole class of people diseased
+or maimed. In the Philippines one seldom sees a well formed person;
+or if the form is good, the face is disfigured by small-pox.
+
+I was surprised, at first, on looking out after breakfast, to find at
+my door every morning from two to a dozen women and boys in sitting
+posture, almost nude, only a thin waist on the body, and a piece
+of cotton drawn tightly round the legs. Many would be solemnly and
+industriously chewing the betel nut, which colors lips and saliva a
+vivid red.
+
+It would not only be impertinent on my part to relate particulars of
+our army, but I should undoubtedly do as Mrs. Partington did--"open
+my patrician mouth and put my plebeian foot in it." The first thing
+I did on arriving at Iloilo was to call mess "board" and go to bed
+instead of "turning in."
+
+In time of special danger, the various commanders were very kind in
+providing guards--mostly, however, to protect Government property. I
+felt no great uneasiness about personal safety, though I always
+"slept with one eye open." We were so frequently threatened that we
+stood ready every moment to move on. Shots during the night are not,
+as a rule, conducive to sleep, and I did not like the sound of the
+balls as they struck the house. I had my plans laid to get behind
+the stone wall at the rear of the passage and lie on the floor. It
+was necessary to keep a close watch on the servants who were "muchee
+hard luc" (very much afraid) at the slightest change in the movements
+of either army, home or foreign.
+
+Their system of wireless telegraphy was most efficient, so much so
+that one day at 2 P. M. I was told by a native of an engagement that
+had taken place at 10 A. M. in a distant part of the island, remote
+from the telegraph stations. I wondered how he could have known,
+and later learned of their systems of signaling by kites. For night
+messages the kites are illuminated. They are expert, not only in
+flying, but in making them.
+
+Their schools are like pandemonium let loose; all the pupils studying
+aloud together, making a deafening, rasping noise. Sessions from 7
+to 10 A. M., 3 to 6 P. M.
+
+The large Mexican dollars are too cumbersome to carry in any ordinary
+purse. If one wishes to draw even a moderate sum, it is necessary to
+take a cart or carriage. A good sized garden shovel on one side and a
+big canvas bag on the other expedites bank transactions in the islands.
+
+At the time of the evacuation of Jaro by the insurrectos, our officers
+chose their quarters from the houses the natives had fled from. The
+house which we occupied had formerly been used as the Portuguese
+Consulate. Like all the better houses the lower part was built of
+stone, and the upper part of boards. There was very little need of
+heavy boards or timbers except to hold the sliding windows. I should
+think the whole house was about eighty feet square with rear porch
+that was used for a summer garden. The pillars of this porch were
+things of real beauty. They were covered with orchids that in the
+hottest weather were all dried up and quite unsightly, but when the
+rainy season began they were very beautiful in their luxuriance of
+growth and bloom. The front door was in three parts; the great double
+doors which opened outward to admit carriages and a small door in one
+of the larger doors. There was a huge knocker, the upper part was a
+woman's head. To open the large doors it was necessary to pull the
+latch by a cord that came up through the floor to one of the inner
+rooms. I used to occupy this room at night and it was my office and my
+pleasure to pull the bobbin and let the latch fly up when the scouting
+troop would come in late at night. Captain Gordon said that he never
+found me napping, that I was always ready to greet them as soon as
+their horses turned the corner two squares away. The entrance door
+admitted to a great hall with a stone floor, ending in apartments
+for the horses. On the right of the hall were rooms for domestic
+purposes, such as for the family looms, four or five of them, and for
+stores of food and goods. On the left there were four steps up and
+then a platform, then three steps down into a room about twenty feet
+square. There were two windows in this room with heavy gratings. We
+used it as a store room for the medical supplies. Returning to the
+platform, there were two heavy doors that swung in, we kept them
+bolted with heavy wooden bolts; there were no locks on any doors. At
+the foot of the steps was a long narrow room with one small window;
+it was directly over the part where the animals were. The hall was
+lighted with quite a handsome Venetian glass chandelier in which we
+used candles. From this room we entered the large main room of the
+house; the ceiling and side wall was covered with leather or oil
+cloth held in place with large tacks; there were sliding windows on
+two sides of the room which, when shoved back, opened the room so
+completely as to give the effect of being out of doors; the front
+windows looked out on the street, the side windows on the garden,
+on many trees, cocoanut, chico, bamboo, and palm. There was a large
+summer house in the center of the garden and the paths which led up
+to it were bordered with empty beer bottles. The garden was enclosed
+by a plastered wall about eight feet high, into the top of which were
+inserted broken bottles and sharp irons to keep out intruders. The
+house was covered with a sheet iron roof. The few dishes that we
+found upon our occupation were of excellent china but the three
+or four sideboards were quite inferior. The whole house was wired
+for bells. This is true of many of the houses, indeed they are all
+fashioned on one model, and all plain in finish, extra carving or fine
+wood-work would only make more work for the busy little ants. Even
+when furniture looked whole, we often found ourselves landed on the
+floor; it was no uncommon thing for a chair to give way; it had been
+honeycombed and was held together by the varnish alone.
+
+My first evening in Jaro was one of great fear. We were told by a
+priest that we were to be attacked and burned out. While sitting
+at dinner I heard just behind me a fearful noise that sounded like
+"Gluck-co-gluck-co." An American officer told me it was an alarm
+clock, but as a matter of fact it was an immense lizard, an animal
+for which I soon lost all antipathy, because of its appetite for the
+numerous bugs that infest the islands. Unfortunately they have no
+taste for the roaches, the finger-long roaches that crawl all over
+the floor. Neither were they of assistance in exterminating the huge
+rats and mice, nor the ants. The ants! It is impossible to describe
+how these miserable pests overran everything; they were on the beds,
+they were on the tables. Our table legs were set in cups of coal
+oil and our floors were washed with coal oil at least once every
+week. This disagreeable condition of things will not be wondered at,
+when I say that the horses, cattle, and carabao are kept in the lower
+part of the house, and the pigs, cats, and dogs allowed up stairs with
+the family. The servants are required to stay below with the cattle.
+
+The animals are all diseased, especially the horses. Our men were
+careful that their horses were kept far from the native beasts. The
+cats are utterly inferior. The mongoose, a little animal between
+a ferret and a rat, is very useful; no well-kept house is without
+one. Rats swarm in such vast hordes that the mongoose is absolutely
+necessary to keep them down. Still more necessary is the house
+snake. These reptiles are brought to market on a bamboo pole and
+usually sell for about one dollar apiece. Mine used to make great
+havoc among the rats up in the attic. Never before had I known what
+rats were. Every night, notwithstanding the mongoose, the house snake,
+and the traps, I used to lay in a supply of bricks, anything to throw
+at them when they would congregate in my room and have a pitched
+battle. They seemed to stand in awe of United States officers. A
+soldier said one night, glancing about, "Why, I thought the rats moved
+out all of your furniture." They would often carry things up to the
+zinc roof of our quarters, drop them, and then take after with rush
+and clatter, the snake in full chase. Mice abound, and lizards are
+everywhere, of every shape, every size, and every color.
+
+I spent a large part of my time leaning out of my window; there
+was so much to see. The expulsion of the insurrectos had just been
+effected, and very few of the natives remained, but as soon as they
+were thoroughly convinced that our troops had actually taken the town,
+they flocked in by the hundreds, the men nearly naked, always barefoot,
+the women in their characteristic bright red skirts.
+
+The entire time spent there was full of surprises, the customs, dress,
+food, and religious ceremonies continually furnishing matter of intense
+and varied interest. I noticed, especially, how little the men and
+women went about together, riding or walking, or to church. Neither
+do they sit together, or rather should say "squat," for, even in the
+fine churches, the women squatted in the center aisles, while the
+men were ranged in side aisles. There are few pews, and these few,
+rarely occupied, were straight and uncomfortable. No effort was ever
+made to make them comfortable, not to mention ornamental.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE NATIVES.
+
+CHAPTER NINE.
+
+
+The natives are, as a rule, small, with a yellowish brown skin; noses
+not large, lips not thick, but teeth very poor. Many of them have
+cleft palate or harelip, straight hair very black, and heads rather
+flattened on top. I examined many skulls and found the occiput and
+first cervical ankylosed. It occurred to me it might be on account
+of the burdens they carry upon their heads in order to leave their
+arms free to carry a child on the hips, to tuck in a skirt, or care
+for the cigars.
+
+The Filipino skirt is a wonder. It is made by sewing together the
+ends of a straight piece of cloth about three yards long. To hold it
+in place on the body, a plait is laid in the top edge at the right,
+and a tuck at the left, and there it stays--till it loosens. One
+often sees them stop to give the right or left a twist. The fullness
+in the front is absolutely essential for them to squat as they are so
+accustomed to do while performing all sorts of work, such as washing,
+ironing, or, in the market place, selling all conceivable kinds of
+wares. The waist for the rich and poor alike is of one pattern, the
+only variation being in the quality. It has a plain piece loose at
+the waist line for the body, a round hole for the rather low neck,
+the sleeves straight and extending to the wrist, about three-fourths
+of a yard wide. These sleeves are gathered on the shoulder to fit the
+individual. A square handkerchief folded three times in the center is
+placed round the neck and completes the costume. As fast as riches
+are amassed, trains are assumed. All clothing is starched with rice
+and stands out rigidly.
+
+The materials are largely woven by the people themselves, and the finer
+fabrics are beautiful in texture and fineness, some of the strands
+being so fine that several are used to make one thread. By weaving
+one whole day from dawn to dark, only a quarter of a yard of material
+is produced. The looms, the cost of which is about fifty cents, are
+all made by hand from bamboo; the reels and bobbins, which complete
+the outfit, raise the value of the whole to about a dollar. There is
+rarely a house that does not keep from one to a dozen looms. The jusi,
+made from the jusi that comes in the thread from China, is colored
+to suit the fancy of the individual, but is not extensively used by
+the natives, who usually prefer the abuka, piña, or sinamay, which
+are products of the abuka tree, or pineapple fibre. The quality of
+these depends on the fineness of the threads. It is very delicate,
+yet durable, and--what is most essential--can be washed.
+
+The common natives seem to have no fixed hours for their meals, nor
+do they have any idea of gathering around the family board. After
+they began to use knives and forks one woman said she would rather
+not use her knife, it cut her mouth so. Even the best of them prefer
+to squat on the floor, make a little round ball of half cooked rice
+with the tips of their fingers and throw it into the mouth.
+
+My next door neighbor was considered one of the better class of
+citizens, and through my window I could not help, in the two years
+of my stay, seeing much of the working part of her household. There
+were pigs, chickens, ducks, and turkeys, either running freely about
+the kitchen or tied by the leg to the kitchen stove. The floors of
+these kitchens are never tight; they allow the greater part of the
+accumulated filth of all these animals to sift through to the ground
+below. There were about fifteen in the family; this meant fifteen or
+twenty servants, but as there are few so poor in the islands as to be
+unable to command a poorer still, these chief servants had a crowd
+of underlings responsible to themselves alone. The head cook had
+a wife, two children and two servants that got into their quarters
+by crawling up an old ladder. I climbed up one day to see how much
+space they had. I put my head in at the the opening that served them
+for door and window, but could not get my shoulders in. The whole
+garret was about eight feet long and six feet wide. One end of it
+was partitioned off for their fighting cocks.
+
+All the time I was there this family of the cook occupied that loft,
+and the two youngest ones squalled night and day, one or other, or
+both of them. There was not a single thing in that miserable hole
+for those naked children to lie on or to sit on. The screams or the
+wails of the wretched babies, the fighting of the rats under foot, the
+thud of the bullets at one's head, the constant fear of being burned
+out,--these things are not conducive to peaceful slumbers, but to
+frightful dreams, to nightmare, to hasty wakenings from uneasy sleep.
+
+As soon as there is the slightest streak of dawn, the natives begin to
+work and clatter and chatter. No time is lost bathing or dressing. They
+wear to bed, or rather to floor or mat, the little that they have
+worn through the day, and rise and go to work next day without change
+of clothing. It never occurs to them to wash their hands except when
+they go to the well, once a day perhaps. While at the well they will
+pour water from a cocoanut shell held above the head and let it run
+down over the body, never using soap or towels. They rub their bodies
+sometimes with a stone. It does not matter which way you turn you see
+hundreds of natives at their toilet. One does not mind them more than
+the carabao in some muddy pond, and one is just about as cleanly as
+the other. They make little noise going to and fro, all being barefoot;
+but it was not long until I learned to know whether there were three,
+fifty, or one hundred passing by the swish of their bare feet.
+
+The fathers seem to lavish more affection on the children than the
+mothers, and no wonder. Even President Roosevelt would be satisfied
+with the size of families that vary from fifteen to thirty. They do
+not seem to make any great ado if one or more die. Such little bits
+of humanity, such wasted corpses; it hardly seems that the shrunken
+form could ever have breathed, it looks so little and pinched and
+starved. There was a pair of twins, a boy and a girl, which were
+said to be twenty-five years old, that were the most hideous looking
+things I ever saw. They were two feet high, with huge heads out of
+all proportion to their bodies. They used to go about the streets
+begging and giving concerts to get money. I understand that they are
+now somewhere in America.
+
+I became very much interested in a man with only one leg. I wanted
+to get him a wooden mate for it, but he said he didn't want it; that
+he could get around faster with one leg, and he certainly could take
+longer leaps than any two legged creature. Even when talking he never
+sat down. He had admirable control of his muscles. A little above
+the average height, his one leggedness made him seem over six feet.
+
+It was out of the question to take the census of any town or province,
+because of the shifting population. It is nothing for a family to move
+many times in the course of the year; they can make thirty or forty
+miles a day. They have absolutely nothing to move unless it might be
+the family cooking "sow-sow" pot, which is hung over the shoulder
+on a string, or carried on top of the head. I used often to see a
+family straggling along with anywhere from ten to twenty children,
+seemingly all of a size, going to locate at some other place. One
+family came to Jaro the night before market day. They had about six
+dozen of eggs. I said I would buy all of them; the woman cried and
+said she was sorry, as she would have nothing to sell in the market
+place the next day. At night the whole family cuddled down in a corner
+of the stable and slept.
+
+The native cook we employed proved to be a good one, and was willing to
+learn American ways of cooking. We did not know he had a family. One
+morning while attending to my duties there appeared a woman about
+five feet tall, with one shoulder about four inches higher than the
+other, one hip dislocated, one eye crossed, a harelip, which made
+the teeth part in the middle, mouth and lips stained blood red with
+betel juice, clothes--a rag or two. I screamed at her to run away,
+which she did instantly. I supposed she was some tramp who wanted to
+get a look at a white woman. She proved to be the wife of our cook,
+and after I had become accustomed to her dreadful looks, she became
+invaluable to me. Hardly anyone would have recognized her the day
+that she accompanied me to the dock. The little money that she had
+earned she had immediately put into an embroidered waist and long
+black satin train; and as I bade her good-bye she left an impression
+quite different from the first, and I am sure that the tears she shed
+were not of the crocodile kind.
+
+The first native, Anastasio Alingas, whom we employed proved to be
+the very worst we could have found. He not only stole from us right
+before my eyes, but right before the eyes of our large household. He
+took the captain's pistol, holster, and ammunition. We could not have
+been more than five or ten feet from him at the time, for it was the
+rule then to have our fire-arms handy.
+
+With an air of innocence, child-like and bland, he diverted suspicion
+to our laundry man and allowed him to be taken to prison. It was
+only after being arrested himself that he confessed and restored the
+revolver. He was allowed to go on the promise that he would never
+come any nearer than twenty miles to Jaro. He had been systematically
+lying and stealing. He used to come with tears streaming down his
+face and say that some man had stolen market money intrusted to
+him. He plundered the store-room, though it was hard to tell which
+stole the most, he or the wild monkeys that were about the house. He
+had pretended to be eager to learn, and had been so tractable that
+we were greatly disappointed to have him turn out such a bad boy. We
+found this true of every man that we tried, and most strongly true
+of the ones who pretended to be the best.
+
+All the servants, all the natives, prized highly our tin cans
+from the commissary, as we emptied them. They used to come miles
+for them. Cocoanut shells and hollow bamboo stalks are the common
+vessels. A few old cans furnished a valuable ten cent store. The
+variety of uses to which these cans were turned was remarkable.
+
+None of the so-called better class work at anything. They all carry
+huge bundles of keys at their side, and in most stentorian voice
+call out many times during the day "machacha" to a servant, who is to
+perform some very small service which her mistress could easily have
+done herself without any effort, and these lazy machachas saunter about
+in the most deliberate manner and do whatever they are asked to do in
+the most ungracious way. These so-called ladies beat their servants. I
+often interfered by pounding with a stick on the side of my window
+to attract their attention; that was all that was necessary. They
+were ashamed to have me see them. One time in particular, a woman
+took a big paddle, such as they use for pounding their clothes,
+and hit a small, sick looking creature again and again on the bare
+shoulders. What the offense was I do not know, but certainly the
+beating was such as I have never seen administered to anything.
+
+The servants always walk about three feet behind the mistresses and
+carry their parcels, but they seldom walk, however, for they ride even
+when the distance is short. The grand dames affect a great deal of
+modesty and delicacy of feeling. On a certain occasion they sent word
+to the commanding general that it would be a serious shock to their
+feelings to have the execution of a criminal take place in the center
+of the town. The gallows were erected in the suburbs. Immediately
+all the natives were set to work to make hiding places where these
+sensitive ladies, unseen, could witness the execution. From early
+dawn until 9 A. M. carriages were carrying these delicate creatures
+to their secret stations. Not one of them in the whole village of
+Jaro but was on the watch. They supposed, of course, that I would
+be so interested that I would take a prominent part; that executions
+were common festivals in the United States.
+
+The criminal himself had no idea that his sentence would be enforced,
+even up to the last moment he took it as a huge joke, and when he was
+taken to the general said he would like to be excused, and offered
+to implicate others who were more guilty than himself.
+
+Many questions were asked me concerning our methods of execution,
+and great was the surprise when I confessed that I had never seen one
+myself, nor did I ever expect to see one; that my countrywomen would
+be horrified to witness such a sight; and that on the present occasion
+I had gone to the adjoining town six miles away to escape it all. I
+was shown several pictures of the victim taken by a Chinese artist.
+
+A man buys at a booth one penny's worth of what is known as "sow-sow"
+for himself and family. I have often looked into the sow-sow pots,
+but was never able to make out what was contained therein. The
+children buy little rice cakes, thin, hard, and indigestible as bits
+of slate. The children's stomachs are abnormally large; due, perhaps,
+to the half-cooked rice and other poorly prepared food. When it comes
+to the choice of caring for the child or the fighting cock, the cock
+has the preference. The bird is carried as fondly and as carefully as
+if it were a superior creature. It was strange to see how they would
+carry these birds on their palms; nor did they attempt to fly away,
+but would sit there and crow contentedly.
+
+We had at one time five or six carpenters to do some bamboo work. They
+brought their fighting cocks along with them for amusement when they
+were not at work, which was every moment our backs were turned. They
+are so used to being driven that it never occurs to them to go on
+with their work unless someone is overseeing them. They began by
+putting the bamboo at the top of the room and working down, braiding,
+plaiting and splitting, putting in a bit here and there in a very
+deft way without a nail. They did all the cutting sitting down on
+the floor and holding the smooth bamboo pieces with their feet,
+while they sawed the various lengths with a bolo.
+
+When they had completed the partition, I said to the foreman,
+"How much for the day's work for all." The head man very politely
+informed me that he did not propose to pay these other men anything;
+if I wanted to pay them all right, but he would not. The defrauded ones
+got down on their knees to beg for their pay. I called in a priest who
+could talk some English, and explained the situation to him. He told
+me frankly that I would have to pay these other men just the same,
+notwithstanding that I had paid the foreman the full amount. He
+said I had better do it, because if I did not the men would bring
+vengeance upon me. They have no idea of justice or honor. What is
+true of business is true of every act of theirs, as far as I know.
+
+An American woman told me that her husband could not attend to his
+military duties because he had to watch the nine natives who came
+to his house to do work. He had to keep account of their irregular
+comings and goings, to examine each one that he did not steal, to
+investigate his work that it was not half done. Men and women are
+alike--they must be watched every moment, because they have been
+so long watched and driven. If women who are hired and paid by the
+month break or destroy the least thing, its value is taken out of
+their wages and they are beaten. It was very astonishing to me to see,
+notwithstanding this serfdom, that they remain submissive to the same
+masters and mistresses.
+
+A man was condemned to die by one of the secret societies. His most
+faithful servant, a member of the order, was chosen to execute the
+sentence. He calmly met his master at the door, made a thrust at him
+and wounded him slightly, struck again, and again; the third blow
+was fatal. The servant was never punished for the crime. It happened
+just a few doors from where I was living. There was a large funeral
+procession and a huge black cross was placed at the door, and that
+ended the matter, so far as I know. They place little value upon life;
+they seem to think death is but the gate to great happiness, no matter
+what its manner may be. I used to see many persons, men and women,
+with crosses on their throats and bodies. I asked ever so many what
+it meant, but was never able to find out. It was never seen upon the
+so-called better class. Much that I learned of the various tribes and
+various castes was told me by a converted Filipino, Rev. Manakin. He
+expected any time to be placed under the ban of the secret societies
+and killed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+WOOINGS AND WEDDINGS.
+
+CHAPTER TEN.
+
+
+The manner of wooing is rather peculiar. The man who wishes to pay his
+addresses to a woman gets the consent of her father and mother. He is
+received by the entire family when he calls, but is never allowed,
+in any way, to show her any special favor or attention; he must
+devote himself to the entire family. If he wishes to take her to a
+theatre, or concert, or dance, he must take the entire family. For
+about a week before the marriage the bride elect is carried about in
+a sort of wicker bamboo hammock borne on the shoulders of two young
+men and she goes about paying visits to her intimate friends; she is
+not allowed to put foot to the ground or do any sort of menial labor.
+
+Mothers brought their young daughters to me daily to importune me to
+choose a sweetheart for my son or for any other officer who happened
+to be at our headquarters. I know that one young officer was offered
+$100,000 to marry the daughter of one of the richest men in the town
+of Molo, and it was a great wonder to the father that the young man
+could refuse so brilliant a match socially, to say nothing of it
+financially. There happened to be a young Englishman in the regular
+service whose time expired while he was at Jaro. He had been cook and
+valet for an officer's mess and was really a very fine fellow. He was
+immediately chosen by a wealthy Filipino to marry his daughter. The
+young man not only got a wife but a very handsome plantation of sugar
+and rice; perhaps not the only foreign husband secured by a good dowry.
+
+The trousseau of a rich Filipino girl consists of dozens and dozens
+of rich dresses; no other article is of interest. They do not need the
+lingerie. Among the common people it is simply an arrangement between
+the mother and the groom or it can all be arranged with the priest. I
+have seen as many as fifteen young girls sitting in the market place
+while their mothers told of their various good qualities. Marriage is
+not a question of affection, seemingly. The only thing necessary is
+money enough to pay the priest. Very often all rites are set aside;
+the man chooses his companion, the two live together and probably
+rear a large family.
+
+I was told that there are two sets of commandments in use--one for
+the rich, the other for the poor.
+
+I was glad to accept the kind invitation of a rich and influential
+family to their daughter's wedding. At the proper hour, I presented
+myself at the church door and was politely escorted to a seat. There
+was music. The natives came dressed in their best, and squatted
+upon the floor of the cathedral. After a long time the bride elect
+sauntered in with three or four of her attendants not especially
+attired, nor did they march in to music but visited along the way as
+they came straggling in. Soon the groom shuffled in, I say shuffled
+because they have so recently begun to wear shoes. The bridal group
+gathered before the altar and listened to the ritual. Finally the
+groom took the bride's hand for one brief moment. A few more words
+by the priest and the ceremony was ended. To my surprise the bride
+came up and greeted me. I did not understand what I was expected to do
+but I shook hands and said I hoped she would be very happy. The groom
+now came up and bowing low presented his "felicitations." I returned
+the bow but could not muster a word. The women straggled out on one
+side of the cathedral and the men on the other. This was considered
+a first class "matrimony." There was a very large reception at the
+house with a grand ball in the evening; indeed, there were two or
+three days of festivities.
+
+In contrast to this was the wholesale matrimonial bureau which was
+conducted every Saturday morning. I have seen as many as ten couples
+married all at once. I never knew which man was married to which woman,
+as the men stood grouped on one side of the priest and the women on the
+other. I asked one groom, "Which is your wife?" He scanned the crowd of
+brides a moment then said comfortably, "Oh, she is around somewhere."
+
+I used to go to the cathedral on Saturdays to see the various
+ceremonies. The most interesting of all the cheap baptisms at
+which all the little babies born during the week were baptized for
+ten cents. These pitiable little creatures, deformed and shrunken,
+were too weak to wail, or, perhaps they were too stupified with
+narcotics. A large candle was put into each little bird-claw, the
+nurse or mother holding it in place above the passive body covered
+only with a scrap of gauze but decked out with paper flowers, huge
+pieces of jewelry, odd trinkets, anything they had--all dirty, mother,
+child, ornaments; the onlookers still more dirty. The priest whom
+I knew very well, since he lived just across the way, told me that
+few of these cheap babies live long. I am sure they could not; not
+one of them would weigh five pounds. They were all emaciated; death
+would be a mercy. There was a little fellow next door to whom I was
+very much attached. The dear little naked child would stay with me
+by the day if I would have him; he was four years old but no larger
+than an American baby of four months. I used to long for a rocking
+chair that I might sing him to sleep but he had no idea of sleeping
+when he was with me. His great brown eyes would look into my face
+with an intensity of love; he would gaze at me till I feared that he
+was something uncanny. If I gave him a lump of sugar, he would hold it
+reverently a long time before he would presume to eat it. Every day he
+and other little devoted natives would bring me bouquets of flowers,
+stuck on the spikes of a palm or on tooth picks. No well regulated
+house but has bundles of tooth picks arranged in fancy shapes such as
+fans and flowers. All their sideboards and tables have huge bouquets
+of these wonderfully wrought and gayly ornamental tooth picks.
+
+They carve with skill; out of a bit of wood or bamboo they will
+whittle a book, so pretty as to be worth four or five dollars.
+
+One day I made a woman understand by signs that I should like to weave;
+she nodded approval and in a little while a loom was brought to the
+house; we went over to the market, purchased our fiber and began. I
+found it a difficult task, as I had to sit in a cramped position;
+and the slippery treadles of round bamboo polished by use were hard
+to manage. I did better without shoes. The weaving was a diversion;
+it occupied my time when the soldiers were out of the quarters. I will
+not deny that yards of the fabric were watered with my tears. There
+was dangerous and exhausting work for our troops; and there were bad
+reports that many were mutilated and killed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MY FIRST FOURTH IN THE PHILIPPINES.
+
+CHAPTER ELEVEN.
+
+
+I can not tell what joy it was to me to see my son and the members
+of the troop come riding into town alive and well after a hard
+campaign. They looked as if they had seen service, and what huge
+appetites they brought with them. On the third of July, 1900, I heard
+that the boys were coming back on the Fourth. Learning that there
+was nothing for their next day's rations I decided to prepare a good
+old-fashioned dinner myself. All night long I baked and boiled and
+prepared that meal; eighty-three pumpkin pies, fifty-two chickens,
+three hams, forty cakes, ginger-bread, 'lasses candy, pickles,
+cheese, coffee, and cigars. Having purchased from a Chinese some fire
+crackers--as soon as there was a streak of dawn--I went to my window
+and lighted those crackers. It was such a surprise to the entire town;
+they came to see what could be the matter, as no firing was permitted
+in the city. We began our first Fourth in true American style, as the
+"Old Glory" was being raised we sang "Star Spangled Banner." Many
+joined in the chorus and in the Hip! Hip! Hurrah! I keep in a small
+frame the grateful acknowledgment of the entire Company that was
+given to me from the Gordon Scouts:
+
+
+Jaro, Panay, P. I., July 4th, 1900.
+To Mrs. A. L. Conger:
+
+
+We, the undersigned, members of Gordon's Detachment, of Mounted
+Eighteenth Infantry Scouts, desire, in behalf of the entire troop,
+to express our thanks for and appreciation of the excellent dinner
+prepared and furnished us by Mrs. A. L. Conger, July 4th, 1900. It
+was especially acceptable coming as it did immediately after return
+from arduous field service against Filipino insurrectos and, being
+prepared and tendered us by one of our own brave and kind American
+women, it was doubly so.
+
+It is the earnest wish of the detachment that Mrs. Conger may never
+know less pleasure than was afforded us by such a noble example of
+patriotic American womanhood.
+
+
+Respectfully,
+
+[Signed]
+
+
+I prepared other dinners at various times, but this first spread was
+to them and to myself a very great pleasure.
+
+Letters from home were full of surprise that we still stayed though
+the war was over--the newspapers said it was. For us the anxiety and
+struggle still went on. To be sure there were no pitched battles but
+the skirmishing was constant; new outbreaks of violence and cruelty
+were daily occurring, entailing upon our men harassing watch and
+chase. The insurrectos were butchers to their own people. Captain
+N. told me that he hired seven native men to do some work around the
+barracks up in the country and paid them in American money, good
+generous wages. They carried the money to their leader who was so
+indignant that they had worked for the Americans that he ordered them
+to dig their graves and, with his own hands, cut, mutilated, and killed
+six of them. The seventh survived. Bleeding and almost lifeless, he
+crawled back to the American quarters and told his story. The captain
+took a guide and a detail, found the place described, exhumed the
+bodies and verified every detail of the inhuman deed.
+
+They committed many bloody deeds, then swiftly drew back to the
+swamps and thickets impenetrable to our men. The very day, the hour,
+that the Peace Commissioner, Governor Taft, Judge Wright and others
+to the number of thirty were enjoying an elegantly prepared repast
+at Jaro there was, within six miles, a spirited conflict going on,
+our boys trying to capture the most blood-thirsty villains of the
+islands. This gang had hitherto escaped by keeping near the shore and
+the impenetrable swamps of the manglares. No foot but a Filipino's
+can tread these jungles. When driven into the very closest quarters,
+they take to their boats, and slip away to some nearby island.
+
+I hope that my son and his men will pardon me for telling that they
+rushed into some fortifications that they saw on one of their perilous
+marches and with a sudden fusillade captured the stronghold. The
+Filipinos had a company of cavalry, one of infantry, one of bolo men,
+and reserves. The insurrecto captain told me himself that he never was
+so surprised, mortified, and grieved that such a thing could have been
+done. They thought there was a large army back of this handful of men,
+eleven in all. General R. P. Hughes sent the following telegram to
+my son, and his brave scouts: "To Lieutenant Conger, June 14, 1900,
+Iloilo. I congratulate you and your scouts on your great success. No
+action of equal dash and gallantry has come under my notice in the
+Philippines." (Signed) R. P. Hughes.
+
+All this time there were negotiations going on to secure surrender and
+the oath of allegiance. Those who vowed submission did not consider
+it at all binding.
+
+General Del Gardo surrendered with protestations of loyalty and has
+honored his word ever since; he is now Governor of the Island of Panay
+(pan-i). He is very gentlemanly in appearance and bearing and has
+assumed the duties of his new office with much dignity. Just recently
+I learn, to my surprise, that he does not recognize the authority
+of the "Presidente" of the town of Oton, who was appointed before
+the surrender of General Del Gardo, and that therefore the very fine
+flag raising we had on the Fourth of July, 1900, is not considered
+legal. We had a famous day of it at the time. All the soldiers who
+could be spared marched to Oton. There was a company of artillery,
+some cavalry, and the scouts. From other islands, Americans and our
+sick soldiers were brought by steamer as near as possible and then
+landed in small boats. We were somewhat delayed in arriving but
+were greeted in a most friendly manner by the whole town. We were
+escorted up to the house of the Presidente and were immediately
+served with refreshments that were most lavish in quantity, color,
+shape and kind; too numerous in variety to taste, and too impossible
+of taste to partake. After the parade, came the running up of the
+flag, made by the women of the town. The shouting and the cheering
+vied with the band playing "America," "Hail Columbia," and the
+"Star Spangled Banner." It was indeed an American day celebrated
+in loyal fashion--certainly by the Americans. It was the very first
+flag raising in the Islands by the Filipinos themselves. It is with
+regret that I hear that General Del Gardo has refused officially to
+recognize this historic occasion. After these ceremonies we had the
+banquet. I do not recall any dish that was at all like our food except
+small quail, the size of our robins. Where and how they captured all
+the birds that were served to that immense crowd and how they ever
+prepared the innumerable kinds of refreshments no one will ever know
+but themselves. We were all objects of curiosity. The natives for
+miles around flocked in to gaze upon the Americans. At this place
+there is one of the finest cathedrals on the Island of Panay, large
+enough for a whole regiment of soldiers to quarter in, as once happened
+during a very severe storm. The reredos was especially fine. It was
+in the center of the cathedral and was almost wholly constructed of
+hammered silver of very intricate pattern and design. Nave, choir,
+and transepts were ornamented with exquisite carving in stone and wood.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FLOWERS, FRUITS AND BERRIES.
+
+CHAPTER TWELVE.
+
+
+Fruits are of many varieties; the most luscious are the mangoes. There
+is only one crop a year; the season lasts from April to July. It is
+a long, kidney-shaped fruit. It seems to me most delicious, but some
+do not like it at all. The flavor has the richness and sweetness of
+every fruit that one can think of. They disagree with some persons
+and give rise to a heat rash. For their sweet sake, I took chances and
+ended by making a business of eating and taking the consequences. The
+mango tree has fine green satin leaves; the fruit is not allowed to
+ripen on the tree. The natives pick mangoes as we pick choice pears
+and let them ripen before eating. They handle them just as carefully,
+and place them in baskets that hold just one layer. The best mangoes
+are sometimes fifty cents a piece. The fruit that stands next in favor
+is the chico. It looks not unlike a russet apple on the outside, but
+the inside has, when ripe, a brown meat and four or five black seeds
+quite like watermelon seeds. It is rich and can be eaten with impunity.
+
+The banana grows everywhere, and its varieties are as numerous as
+those of our apple; its colors, its sizes, manifold. Some about
+the size of one's finger are deliciously sweet and juicy. They grow
+seemingly without any cultivation whatever, by the road as freely
+as in the gardens. Guavas are plentiful, oranges abundant but poor
+in quality. The pomelo is like our "grape fruit," but larger, less
+bitter and less juicy. Cut into squares or sections and served with a
+sauce of white of egg and sugar beaten together it is a delicious dish.
+
+There are no strawberries or raspberries, but many kinds of small
+fruits, none of which I considered at all palatable, although some
+of them looked delicious hanging upon the trees or bushes. There is a
+small green kind of cherry full of tiny seeds that the natives prize
+and enjoy. The fruits of one island are common to all.
+
+The flora of the country was not seen at its best; many of the natives
+told me. Trees, shrubs, gardens and plantations had been trampled by
+both armies and left to perish. Our government took up the work of
+restoration as soon as possible. The few roses that I saw were not of a
+particularly good quality, nor did they have any fragrance. No one can
+ever know what joy thrilled me when one day I found some old fashioned
+four o'clocks growing in the church yard. The natives do not care to
+use the natural flowers in the graceful sprays or luxuriant clusters in
+which they grow. They usually stick them on the sharp spikes of some
+small palm or wind them on a little stick to make a cone or set the
+spikelets side by side in a flat block. They much prefer artificial
+stiffness to natural grace. In the hundreds of funeral ceremonies
+that I saw I never noticed the use of a single natural blossom. The
+flowers were all artificial, of silk, paper, or tissue. One reason,
+perhaps, of this choice is that all vegetation is infested with ants;
+they can scarcely be seen, but, oh, they can be felt! The first time
+I was out driving I begged the guard to gather me huge bunches of
+most exquisite blooms but I was soon eager to throw them all out;
+the ants swarmed upon me and drove me nearly frantic. I learned to
+shun my own garden paths and to content myself with looking out of
+the window on the plants below. There are many birds but no songsters.
+
+The betel nut is about the size of a walnut. The kernel is white
+like the cocoanut. They wrap a bit of this kernel with a pinch of
+air-slacked lime in a pepper leaf, then chew, chew, all day, and
+in intervals of chewing they spray the vividly colored saliva on
+door-step, pavement and church floor.
+
+I often watched the natives climb the tall cocoanut trees, about
+eighty feet high, with only the fine fern-like leaves at the extreme
+top. These trees yield twenty to fifty cocoanuts per month and live to
+a great age. No one can have any idea of the delicious milk until he
+has drunk it fresh from the recently gathered nuts. A young native will
+climb as nimbly and as swiftly as a monkey, and will be as unfettered
+by dress as his Darwinian brother. The fruit is severed from the tree
+by the useful bolo.
+
+The flowers in the parks when I saw them had all been trampled into the
+mud by the soldiers of both armies, but I was told that they had been
+very beautiful. There were also large trees, bearing huge clusters of
+blooms; one bunch had seventy-five blossoms, each as large as a fair
+sized nasturtium. These are called Fire or Fever Trees, since they
+have the appearance of being on fire and bloom in the hot season when
+fever is most prevalent. Other trees whose name I do not recall bear
+equally large clusters of purple flowers. The palms are large and grow
+in great luxuriance, and the double hibiscus look like large pinks.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE MARKETS.
+
+CHAPTER THIRTEEN.
+
+
+The market day is the great day of every town. A certain part of
+every village is prepared with booths and stalls to display wares of
+endless variety. We all looked forward to market day. There were mats
+of various sizes,--mats are used for everything. There are some so
+skillfully woven that they are handsome ornaments, worth as much as
+a good rug. There were hats woven out of the most delicately shredded
+fibers, the best costing from twelve to twenty dollars in gold, very
+durable and very beautiful. The best ones can be woven only in a damp
+place, as the fiber must be kept moist while being handled. There
+were fish nets of abaka differing in mesh to suit the various kinds
+of fish. The cloths were hung on lines to show their texture. We had
+to pick our way amongst the stalls and through or over the natives
+seated on the ground. I have seen a space of two acres covered with
+hundreds of natives, carabao, trotting bulls, chickens, turkeys,
+ducks, fine goods, vegetables, and fruits all in one mass; and I had
+to keep a good lookout where I stepped and what I ran into. It was
+not necessary to go often for they were more than willing to bring all
+their wares to the house if they had any prospects of a sale. I have
+had as many as thirty natives troop into the house at one time. They
+finally became so obnoxious that I forbade them coming at all.
+
+The silence of these crowds was noticeable. They were keenly alive
+to business and did not laugh and joke or even talk in reasonable
+measure. As a race they are solemn even in their looks, and no wonder,
+such is their degradation, misery, and despair. They have so little
+sympathy and care for each other, so little comfort, and so neglected
+and hopeless, so sunken beneath the so-called better class that when
+a little mission gospel was started one could hardly refrain from
+tears to see the joy that they had in accepting the free gospel. It
+was no trouble for them to walk thirty or forty miles to get what
+they called cheap religion. They were outcasts from society and too
+poor to pay the tithes that were imposed upon them by the priests in
+their various parishes, for no matter how small a village was there
+was the very elegant cathedral in the center of the town which only
+the rich and those who were able to pay were entitled to enter.
+
+The poor blind people wandered from village to village in groups
+of two to twenty. Quite a number of the moderately insane would go
+about begging, too, but the worst were chained to trees or put in
+stocks and their food thrown at them. Even the dumb brutes were not
+so poorly cared for.
+
+The houses of the rich, while not cleanly and not well furnished,
+always have one large room in which stands a ring of chairs with a
+rug in the center of the floor and a cuspidor by each seat. You are
+ushered in and seated in one of these low square chairs, usually cane
+seated. After the courtesies of the day and the hostess's comments on
+the fineness of your clothing, refreshments are brought in,--cigars,
+cigarettes, wine, cake, and preserved cocoanut. Sometimes American
+beer is added as possibly more acceptable than the wine.
+
+The citizens of Jaro seemed to be friendly, they often invited me
+to their festivities; committees would wait upon me, presenting me
+sometimes invitations engraved upon silver with every appearance of
+cordiality in expression and manner. They could not understand why
+I would not accept; I would explain, that first, I had no desire;
+second, I thought it poor policy to do so when our soldiers were
+obliged to fight their soldiers, and they were furnishing the money
+to carry on the warfare; then too, most of their balls were given on
+Sunday night. True, a Filipino Sunday never seemed Sunday to me. I
+could only say, foolishly enough, "But it is not Sunday at home." I
+could not attend their parties and I had little heart to dance. I
+had only to go to the window to see their various functions; it
+could hardly be called merry as they went at it in such a listless,
+lazy way, with apparently little enjoyment, the air that they carry
+into all their pleasures.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PHILIPPINE AGRICULTURE.
+
+CHAPTER FOURTEEN.
+
+
+It has been said that the prosperity of any nation depends largely
+upon its agriculture. The soil in the Philippines is very rich. The
+chief product, which the natives spend the most time upon, is rice;
+and even that is grown, one almost might say, without any care,
+especially after seeing the way the Japanese till their rice. They
+sow the rice broadcast in little square places of about half an acre
+which is partly filled with water. When this has grown eight or ten
+inches high they transplant it into other patches which have been
+previously scratched over with a rude one-handled plow that often
+has for a point only a piece of an old tin can or a straggly root,
+and into this prepared bit of land they open the dyke and let in the
+water; that is all that is necessary until the harvesting. They have
+a great pest, the langousta or grasshopper, and they are obliged,
+when these insects fly over a section of the country, to scare them
+away by any means in their power, which is usually by running about
+through the rice fields waving a red rag.
+
+As I have said before they gather these pests and eat them. I have
+seen bushels of fried langousta for sale in the markets. When they
+gather the rice harvest, it is carried to some nearby store room,
+usually in the lower part of the house in which they live. Then comes
+the threshing, which is done with old-fashioned mills, by pounding with
+a wooden mallet, or by rubbing between two large pieces of wood. Then
+they winnow it, holding it up by the peck or half bushel to let the
+wind blow the hulls off, and dry it by placing it on mats of woven
+bamboo. I saw tons of rice prepared in this way by the side of the
+road near where I lived. This being their staple, the food for man
+and beast, one can form some idea of the vast quantities that are
+needed. There was a famine while I was there and the U. S. government
+was obliged to supply the natives with rice for seed and food.
+
+There is no grass grown except a sort of swamp grass. The rice cut
+when it is green is used in the place of grass. It is never dried,
+as it grows the year round. One can look out any day and see rows
+of small bundles of this rice paddy laid by the road side for sale
+or carried by the natives on bamboo poles, a bundle before and one
+behind to balance. It was astonishing to see these small men and
+boys struggling under the weight of their "loads of hay." None of the
+American horses cared for it; their hay and grain had to be stacked
+up along the wharf and guarded. It would be of little use, however,
+to the natives as they know nothing about the use of our products.
+
+If there was any wheat grown in the islands, we never heard of it,
+and judging from the way in which flour was sold in their markets
+at ten cents for a small cornucopia that would hold about a gill,
+it was probably brought from either Australia or America.
+
+They have a camote, something like a sweet potato. Although
+it is watery and stringy it does very well and is called a good
+vegetable. They raise inferior tomatoes and very inferior garlic. It
+was a matter of great curiosity to the natives to see an American
+plow that was placed on exhibition at the British store. I am sure
+when they can take some of our good agricultural implements and turn
+the rich soil over and work it, even in a poor way, the results will
+be beyond anything we could produce here in the United States.
+
+Their cane sugar is of fine quality, almost equal to our maple
+sugar. They plant the seed in a careless way and tend it in the most
+slovenly manner imaginable, and yet, they get immense crops. One man,
+who put in a crop near where some soldiers were encamped in order to
+have their protection, told us that he sold the product from this
+small stretch of ground of not more than five or six acres for ten
+thousand dollars.
+
+The natives so disliked to work that nearly every one who employed
+men kept for them a gaming table and the inevitable fighting cocks;
+as long as they can earn a little money to gamble that is all they
+care for; houses, lands, and families are not considered. Nearly all
+the sugar mills had been burned in our neighborhood, but I know from
+the way they do everything else that they must have used the very
+crudest kind of boiling apparatus. The sugar seemed reasonably clean
+to look at, but when boiled the sediment was anything but clean. With
+our evaporating machines and with care to get the most out of the
+crop, the profit will be enormous. Often we would buy the cane in the
+markets, peel off the outside and chew the pith to get the sweet juice.
+
+They raise vast quantities of cocoa, as indifferently cared for as
+everything else, also a small flat bean, but it has a bitter taste.
+
+The largest crop of all is the hemp crop which grows, seemingly,
+without any cultivation. This hemp when growing looks something
+like the banana tree. They cut it down and divide it into lengths as
+long as possible and then prepare the wood or fiber by shaving it on
+iron teeth.
+
+They are expert in this industry, in making it fine and in tying it,
+often times, in lengths of not more than two or three inches. They
+give a very dextrous turn of the hand and the finest of these threads
+are used in some of the fabrics which they weave. I often wondered
+how they could prepare these delicate, strong, linen-like threads
+that are as fine as gossamer.
+
+A man who had cotton mills in Massachusetts visited places where the
+hemp is prepared and the looms where it is woven. He said he had never
+known anything so wonderful as the deft manner in which these people
+worked out the little skeins from an intricate mass of tangled webs.
+
+One of the curiosities of the world's fair at St. Louis will be this
+tying and weaving of hemp. Then a still greater curiosity will be the
+making of pine-apple fiber. This manufacture has been sadly neglected
+and crippled by the war and its devastations. They have learned to
+mix in other fibers because of the scarcity of the pine-apple. I
+did not see this prepared at all; only secured with difficulty some
+of the good cloth. It is considered by the natives their very best
+and finest fabric. They spend much time on its embroidery and their
+exquisite work astonishes the finest lace makers.
+
+The field corn which I saw was of such an inferior grade that it
+never occurred to me to try it; indeed, they do not bring it to market
+until it is out of the milk.
+
+On my return home I planted a few kernels as an experiment. There never
+was a more insignificant looking stalk of corn in our garden. With
+misgivings we made trial of the scrubby looking ears. To our surprise
+it was the best we ever had on our table. It seemed too good to be
+true. I gave several messes to my friends and this year am hoping to
+give pleasure to many others. I denied myself the delicious product
+that many might have seed for this spring.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MINERALS.
+
+CHAPTER FIFTEEN.
+
+
+Gold is found in every stream of the islands. In small bottles I
+saw many little nuggets which the natives had picked up. Whether it
+would pay to use good machinery to extract he gold I cannot tell;
+but certain it is that they use a great deal of gold in the curiously
+wrought articles of jewelry of which they are all passionately fond.
+
+A man who was greatly interested in the mines of Klondike said that
+there were better chances of getting gold in the Philippines and
+that he had given up all his northern claims and was now using his
+energies to secure leases in the new territory. Other minerals, too,
+he said, are abundant and valuable.
+
+I had a small brass dagger which I used to carry for defense and, upon
+showing it to some of my friends, since my return, I was asked if I
+saw this dagger made, because if I knew the secret of its annealing
+it would be worth a fortune to me.
+
+I had missed a golden chance for I had often visited a rude foundry
+where they made bolos and other articles, but it did not occur to me
+that there could be anything of value to expert workmen at home in
+these crude hand processes.
+
+The soldiers that accompanied me, as well as I myself, went into
+convulsions of laughter over the shape of their bellows and the
+working of their forge. Everything they do seemed to us to be done in
+the most awkward manner; it is done backward if possible. The first
+time I saw a carriage hitched before the animal I wondered how they
+could ever manage it.
+
+Bolos are of all sizes and shapes and are made of steel or iron to
+suit the fancy of the person. Some are of the size and pattern of an
+old-fashioned corn cutter, handles of carved wood or carabao horn;
+sometimes made with a fork-like tip and waved with saw teeth edge. It
+is an indispensable tool in war and peace. There were none so poor as
+not to have a bolo. They made cannon, too, and guns patterned after
+our American ones. And sometimes cannon were made out of bamboo,
+bound around with bands of iron. These were formidable and could
+shoot with as much noise as a brass one, if not with as much accuracy.
+
+They must get a great deal of silver, as they have so many silver
+articles; they insert bits of silver in the handles of bolos. These
+bolos are used for everything. One day I found that the little tin
+oven which I brought from home was all worn out on the inside. I was
+in despair for there was no way of getting it repaired, My native
+cook watched me as I looked at it sorrowfully. Without saying a word
+he went to work and with only a bolo took my old tin coal oil can
+and constructed a lining with the metal cleats to hold the shelves
+up. The only thing he had in the way of a tool to work with was his
+bolo, about two feet long. When I hired him I noticed that he had
+great long finger nails; I told him that he would have to cut them
+off. He said, "Why I don't too. I wouldn't have anything to scratch
+myself with." But, upon my insisting, he took his huge bolo, placed his
+fingers on a block of wood, and severed his useful finger nails. They
+use these bolos for cutting grass, cutting meat,--they use them for
+haggling our soldiers, as we learned to our grief and wrath.
+
+There are vast quantities of coal, but the mines so far have been but
+little developed. The coal is so full of sulphur that its quality
+is spoiled. There are possibilities of finding it in good paying
+quantities on several of the islands. It makes a quick blaze and
+soon burns out. The natives sell it in tiny chunks, by the handful,
+or in little woven baskets that hold just about a quart.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ANIMALS.
+
+CHAPTER SIXTEEN.
+
+
+The animal that is most essential in every way is the carabao or
+water buffalo. They are expensive, a good one costing two or three
+hundred dollars. Their number has been very much diminished by the
+rinder-pest. The precious carabao is carefully guarded; at night it
+is kept in the lower part of the house or in a little pond close by.
+
+The picture shown opposite is a good representation of the better
+class of fairly well-to-do Filipino people; they are rich if they
+can afford as many carabao as stand here. The second picture shows
+the way they are driven. Their skins are used for everything that
+good strong leather can be used for. Their meat is good for food; but
+heaven help anybody who is obliged to eat it, and when it is prepared,
+as it often is, by drying the steaks in the sun, then the toughness
+exceeds that of the tanned hide. A sausage mill could not chew dried
+carabao. The milk is watery and poor, but the natives like it very
+much. The horns are used for handles for bolos, the hoofs for glue,
+and the bones are turned into carved articles of many kinds. The
+little calves that go wandering about by the sides of their mothers
+are so curious and so top heavy, and yet they are strong even when
+small. Carabao sometimes go crazy, and when they do, they tread down
+everything in their way. Notwithstanding their ungainly bulk they can
+run as well as a good horse, and can endure long journeys quite as
+well. They are urged to greater speed by the driver taking the tail
+and giving it a twist or kicking them in the flank.
+
+I used to spend most of my time threatening my driver that he would
+have to go to a calaboose if he did not stop abusing the animal. The
+horses are only caricatures. They are so small, so poorly kept,
+and so badly driven that one burns with indignation at the sight of
+them. There is no bit and the bridle is always bad. The nose piece
+is fitted tight and has on the under side a bit of horny fish skin,
+its spikes turned towards the flesh. These are jerked into the flesh
+of the poor horse until, in its frenzy, it dashes madly from one side
+of the road to the other.
+
+Cows are of little use. They look fair but they give little milk. Goats
+are next in importance, and are delightful to watch. The kids, in
+pairs and triplets, are such pretty little creatures, so perfectly
+formed, that I could scarcely resist the desire to bring a few home.
+
+The dogs are the worst looking creatures imaginable. They are so
+maimed that they are pests rather than pets; but there are thousands
+of them. There was one exception, a dog that was brought to me one day
+from a burning house, the like of which I had never seen before. It was
+called an Andalusian poodle. It proved to be not only the handsomest
+but the best little dog I ever had. Being a lover of dogs, I regretted
+very much to give him up upon my return.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AMUSEMENTS AND STREET PARADES.
+
+CHAPTER SEVENTEEN.
+
+
+As a drowning man catches at a straw, so was I eager for anything
+that would give even slight relief from consuming anxieties and
+pressing hardships. The natives responded quickly to the slightest
+encouragement; small change drew groups of two to fifty to give me
+"special performances." There were blind fiddlers who would play
+snatches of operas picked up "by ear" on the rudest kind of a fiddle
+made out of hollow bamboo with only one string; it was astonishing
+how much music they could draw from the rude instrument. The bow was a
+piece of bent bamboo with shredded abaka for the bow-strings. Flutes
+were made of bamboo stalks; drums out of carabao hide stretched over
+a cylindrical piece of bamboo. Some of these strolling bands came many
+miles to my door, and while none of them ever produced correct music,
+still they were a great diversion.
+
+There were strolling players, too. The first performance was
+the most interesting that I have ever seen. The players arranged
+themselves within a square roughly drawn in the middle of the road;
+then to the strains of a bamboo fiddle, bamboo flute, bamboo drum,
+the melodrama was begun. The hero pranced into the open square to the
+tune of a minor dirge, not knowing a single sentence of his part; the
+prompter, kneeling down before a flaring candle, told him what to say;
+he repeated in parrot-like fashion, and then pranced off the square
+to slow dirge-like music. Now the heroine minced in from the opposite
+corner to slow music with her satin train sweeping in the dust; though
+carefully raised when she crossed the sacred precincts of the square,
+and in a sauntering way, with one arm akimbo and the other holding
+the fan up in the air, she took the opposite corner and the prompter
+told her what to say. In the meantime the candle blew out; it was
+relighted; the prompter found his place and signaled to the hero to
+come on. From the opposite side again, with a bow and hand on heart,
+the lover repeated after the prompter his addresses to the waiting
+maiden. She pretended to be surprised and shocked at his addresses,
+fainted away and was carried off the stage by two women attendants;
+the lover with folded arms looked calmly at the sad havoc he had
+wrought. Now a rival suitor sprang into the ring and with a huge
+bolo attacked number one and killed him. The heroine was now able to
+return. She did not fall into the arms of number two. She only listened
+placidly to the demand of how much she would pay to secure so splendid
+a man as the one that could bolo his rival. The parents finally entered
+and settled the difficulty. The play closed with the prospect of a
+happy union. The company dispersed, the women and girls walking on
+one side of the road with the torches in their hands, and the men on
+the other, in two solemn files. There was no chattering or laughing;
+yet they all felt that they had had a most delightful performance.
+
+Two or three concerts given at a neighboring town were very
+creditable, but only the better class attended; nine-tenths of the
+people resort to these crude, wayside performances. They look on with
+seeming indifference; there is never a sign of approval, much less
+an outburst of applause. They seem to have no place in their souls
+for the ludicrous, the comic, or the joyous. They were shocked by my
+smiles and peals of laughter. They have a strange preference for the
+minor key in music, for the dirge. No wonder when our bands would play
+lively music that they were quite ready to take up the catchy airs,
+but they would add a mournful cadence to the most stirring of our
+American airs. After awhile I found that the music oftenest rendered
+by the cathedral organ was the Aguinaldo March. I took the liberty to
+inform the commanding officer and that tune was stopped. After the
+surrender, to my great surprise and joy, the same organ rolled out
+"America"; it did thrill me, even if it was played on a Filipino
+instrument and by a Filipino.
+
+Little boys often came with tiny birds which they had trained to do
+little tricks. One had snakes which he would twist around his bare
+body. And never was there a day without a cock fight. Sometimes the
+birds were held in check by strings attached to them, but it was a
+common occurrence to see groups of natives watching their birds fight
+to the finish at any time of day, Sundays not excepted. And they will
+all bet on the issue if it takes the last cent they have. They do not
+seem to enjoy it in a hilarious manner at all. It is serious business,
+without comment or jovial look or act. No one is so busy that he can
+not stop for a cock fight.
+
+There are many kinds of monkeys on the islands. It is common to
+domesticate them, to train them to do their master's bidding; they
+become a part of the family, half plaything, half servant. Parrots,
+too, are adopted into the household and learn to speak its dialect;
+they are almost uncanny in their chatter and they, too, do all kinds
+of tricks at the bidding.
+
+I was daily importuned to buy monkeys, parrots, cocks, or song birds. I
+took a tiny bird that was never known to so much as chirp, but he grew
+fond of me, would perch upon my shoulder or would turn his little
+head right or left as if to ask if I were pleased with his silent
+attentions. The last morning of my stay in Jaro I went to the window
+and set him free but he immediately came back and clung to my hand. I
+took him to Iloilo and left him with the nurses; he lived only a day.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FESTIVALS OF THE CHURCH.
+
+CHAPTER EIGHTEEN.
+
+
+According to the Spanish calendar in my possession, there is a festival
+for every day in the year. There are services every morning at seven,
+every evening at five; often there are special grand festivals. The
+Jaro church has a wax figure of the Savior and this figure is dressed
+for various festivals in various ways; sometimes in evening dress,
+with white shirt, diamond stud, rings on the fingers, patent leather
+shoes, and a derby hat. This figure was placed on a large platform
+and either carried on the shoulders of men or put on a wagon and drawn
+by men. Once I saw the cart pushed along by a bull at the rear. This
+procession would form at the Cathedral door, march around the square
+and then usually go three or four blocks down toward the house where
+the priest lived, and by that time it would be very nearly dark and
+they would light their candles and return and go about the square
+again before going into the Cathedral.
+
+Sometimes the figure was dressed in royal robes with long purple
+mantle and gilded crown upon the head; on Good Friday it lay in a
+white shroud as if in death; on Easter day it was arrayed in flowing
+white robes and was brought from the cemetery into town and borne at
+the head of a great parade. Those who could afford to do so would set
+up a special shrine in front of their homes, adorned with flowers and
+household images. The priest would, as a special favor, have special
+services before these shrines, and the more money spent on these
+shrines and the more paid to the priest the more distinguished the
+citizen. For days before the natives were busy making long candles
+out of carabao tallow. Some of these candles, huge and crude, would
+weigh four or five pounds. None of the so-called common people or
+the poor class would take part in any of these wonderful parades
+unless they were able to wear good clothes and have long trains to
+their dresses. I never saw any one in these processions who was at
+all poor; the poor simply stand by the roadside and look on. I asked
+my Filipino woman why she did not join; she said she would just as
+soon as she could get a dress with a train. It was not many weeks
+before she was in the procession, having earned the train by laundry
+work for the officers and soldiers. For the men, it was their joy to
+be able to purchase a derby hat. I never knew there could be so many
+kinds of derbies as I saw on the heads of these natives. It was said
+that a ship-load of them was brought over once, and they so charmed
+the male population that from that time on they all aspired to own
+a derby, no matter how ancient its appearance or of what color it
+might be. And no matter if they did not have a shirt to their back,
+if they had on a good stiff derby hat, they were dressed for any
+occasion and to appear before anybody.
+
+The priests wear, first, a long, plain white robe, over this a black
+cassock, then a white cotta; and the more richly it is embroidered the
+better they like it. There was with this white cotta a white petticoat
+plain at the top and ruffled at the bottom. I did not know the names
+of the outer vestments but they were all embroidered. I offered to buy
+one of the heavily embroidered vestments from a priest but he refused,
+saying that it was very hard to get that kind of cloth embroidered so
+beautifully. He gave me one of the Filipino skirts; it was badly worn,
+but I kept it as a curiosity. Not knowing very much about the Roman
+church, there were a great many things done every day that I could not
+understand; for instance, when a priest went out in a closed carriage
+attended by two or three boys he would come from the church door with
+one of the boys in front of him ringing a bell vigorously. He would
+ring this bell just as hard as he could until the priest would get
+inside with his attendants and then they would drive away. When they
+returned they would go through this same performance of ringing this
+bell until they got inside of the church. I saw this many times and
+once asked a Roman Catholic soldier what it meant; he said he did
+not know.
+
+It may be that these people need to be terrorized by the priests;
+certain it is that, when a priest walks through the village or when
+any of the people see him, they kneel and kiss his hand, if he is so
+gracious as to honor them with the privilege. The people bow down
+before him and reverence him though he may at any moment lift his
+cane and give them a good whack over the head or shoulders. I never
+saw this done, but several of our men told me they had seen it; and
+one captain told me that he saw the priest take a huge bamboo pole
+and knock a man down because he failed to get into the procession in
+double-quick time. They do literally rule these people with the rod.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+OSTEOPATHY.
+
+CHAPTER NINETEEN.
+
+
+In 1895, for the benefit of one dearer to me than life, I went to
+Kirksville, Mo., and from Dr. A. T. Still learned something of the
+principles and practice of his great art. The subject grew in interest;
+I became a regular student of the American School of Osteopathy, and,
+in time, completed the course and took the decree. In the islands
+it was a great pleasure to me to help our sick soldiers; scores of
+them, with touching gratitude, have blessed the use that I made of
+my hands upon them. Officers and men came daily for treatment. Soon
+the Filipinos came, too. Women walked many miles carrying their sick
+children; the blind and lame besought me to lay my hands upon them. It
+was noised about that I had divine power. My door was beset. I gladly
+gave relief where I could, but for the most of them help was one
+hundred years too late.
+
+I recall with special pleasure one successful case. A woman came to
+me who said she had walked forty miles to bring her sick child; for
+compensation she offered a pigeon and three eggs. I could not look
+out of my window without seeing some poor sick native squatted on the
+ground waiting to see if I could do anything for her sick child or
+herself. The natives when burning up with fever think they dare not
+wash their bodies; they will lie hopeless and passive on the ground or
+on a small bamboo mat. It is pitiable to see them so utterly destitute;
+not one single thing that would go to make up a bed or pillow, nor
+do they seem to have any mode of taking care of their sick at all.
+
+Our army hospitals were very well kept, indeed, but it was a great
+struggle to get help enough and to get the things needed for hundreds
+of sick soldiers. There were many large buildings, but as soon as the
+government attempted to purchase them, the Filipinos asked exorbitant
+prices. And then the sanitary conditions are such that it is hard to
+establish hospitals anywhere. I read with great pleasure that the
+capitol of Luzon will be on a plateau in the mountains where the
+temperature will be lower, the air better, and the water purer.
+
+I am sure that Americans can live in the Philippines; I know that
+the resources of the islands are vast, especially in agricultural
+and mineral products; that we have, indeed, acquired in our new
+possessions immeasurable riches.
+
+As soon as any Filipino wishes to become a friend and to impress you
+that he is rich and has vast possessions, the entire family, father,
+mother, and children, will call and bring quantities of fruits, fine
+clothes, carved shells, and native pearls with curiously wrought gold
+settings, and present them with great earnestness of manner and many
+words of praise. They tell you what great value they place upon your
+friendship, and that of all the people in all the world you are the
+one person that they do most ardently believe in, and finally that
+they consider you the greatest acquisition to their islands.
+
+A Filipino general and his wife came again and again to see me;
+they brought a magnificent sunburst of diamonds which they urged
+me to accept with their greatest love and affection. I declined
+positively and absolutely. They seemed very much downcast that I
+would not accept this little token of their deep affection. They
+went home, but in about two hours came back, brought the diamonds,
+and again urged and urged so strongly that I finally consented to let
+the wife pin the elegant brooch on my dress; perhaps I should find
+out the hidden meaning of this excessive devotion. As soon as the
+officer in command returned, I told him of the gift, of my refusal,
+and of their return. A written note was hastily sent to the general
+that he must come and remove the brooch at once. Fearing the wrath of
+the officer, he came immediately and I returned the diamonds. Even
+after this the family renewed their efforts. I found out afterwards
+that the general had violated his oath of allegiance; his bribe was
+to buy my influence with the commanding officer.
+
+It was evident that many of the better class of natives, in spite of
+oath and fair face, were directing and maintaining the murderous bands
+of banditti. Often letters were found that the Filipino generals
+had written to their women friends in Jaro, Iloilo and Molo, to
+sell their jewels, to sell all they could, to buy guns, ammunition,
+and food, and later other letters were captured full of the thanks
+of the Filipino army for these gifts. While the good Filipinos were
+taking the oath of allegiance with the uplifted right hand, the left
+was much busier sending supplies to the insurrectos.
+
+The hypocrisy of the upper classes was matched by their cruelty. A
+native of prominence was gracious enough upon one occasion to direct
+a party of officers on their way. He was attended by his servant who
+walked or ran the entire distance carrying a heavy load suspended
+partly from his shoulders, and partly by a strap about the forehead.
+
+The servant failed to start with the party, but in a short time he
+caught up by running swiftly. The master calmly got off his horse,
+motioned to the servant to drop his load, and proceeded to beat the man
+unmercifully with a cane made out of fish tail, a sword-like, cruel,
+barbed affair, about four feet long. The poor servant never uttered
+a cry. As soon as possible the officers interfered and stopped the
+torture. So bloody and faint was the poor victim that they gave him
+a horse to ride. The master was angry, declared he would not have
+his authority questioned and left the party.
+
+A ball was given in the town of Jaro by the officers who were there
+and in the town of Iloilo. Army, navy, ladies, and nurses from the
+hospital were invited. It was considered quite an unusual thing to
+do at this time, as the Filipino soldiers were near at hand day and
+night, approaching and firing upon the town. One of the Filipino
+women said, "I do not see how the American officers dare congregate
+at so dangerous a time." The men decorated the huge ball room with
+magnificent palms and ferns which they had gathered and put up many
+flags. The regimental band was stationed on the porch at the rear of
+the building. It was, altogether, a very fine gathering, and all went
+merry "as the marriage bell."
+
+There was a German on the dance programme that was to end in a mock
+capture. Not thinking that it might occasion alarm, at a certain
+point, some of the soldiers were instructed to fire off some cannon
+crackers; in addition the soldiers thought it would be just as well to
+fire off a few pistols. The surprise was very great. The colonel of a
+volunteer regiment nearby heard the commotion and gave orders for the
+company to turn out and find out where this fusillade was occurring,
+not supposing that it could be in private quarters. The Presidente
+of the town was greatly alarmed, as he was expecting any moment to
+be captured for serving under the U. S. government as head man of a
+town. The firing created a great commotion, people ran hither and
+thither to find out where the battle was going on; the musicians,
+who did not understand about the firing, were frightened, too; there
+was a call to arms and great commotion. But soon explanations came,
+and immediately it was on with the dance. It was a huge joke, and when
+the sentry told that a colonel and his wife were the most frightened
+of all, barricading their doors and having extra guards placed around,
+the merriment knew no bounds.
+
+It was seldom that the officers had any of these receptions or balls,
+but when they did everybody felt they must attend, and those taking
+part in the dance enjoyed themselves very much. Sometimes the officers
+would charter a small steamer and go to one of the nearby islands,
+but it was rarely they could do so, because of the skulking natives
+and their manner of signaling where these parties landed, making it
+unsafe for any but large companies to attend these excursions.
+
+It was often the duty of our officers and men to stop the cruelties
+they saw practiced upon dumb brutes. I have in mind the way pigs were
+brought to market, their forefeet across a bamboo pole and their heads
+bound so that they could not squeal, and in this uncomfortable way
+they were carried many miles. Of the many stories that were told of
+the cruelties our soldiers perpetrated upon the helpless Filipinos,
+I do not believe one word; indeed, our men were constantly assisting
+the natives in every way possible.
+
+On the 4th of July, 1900, our officers decided to tender a reception to
+the Filipino families whose hospitalities they had enjoyed. They issued
+invitations and decorated their quarters in fine shape with flags,
+bunting, palms, and pictures. It was quite the talk of the town. The
+beauty and chivalry of the island were there. For refreshments
+they served commissary supplies with ice cream and cake. The guests
+thought it a very poor banquet for such pretentious people as the
+officers were. The Filipinos always have a ten or twelve course meal
+at twelve o'clock at their dances, especially when they have festivals
+or wedding banquets. There were many of these given. I could often
+watch the throng from my window; they went at this particular kind of
+hilarity in the same listless, slow, silent manner in which they did
+everything. The popular dance is the "Rigadon." There is a great deal
+of swinging of couples and going forward and back. None of the common
+people seem to indulge in any form of a dance, so far as I could learn.
+
+We invited upon several occasions some Filipino men and women to dine
+with us, and it was interesting to hear their remarks about various
+dishes we had prepared for them. They would ask questions concerning
+the preparations. Mince pies, which we made of canned meat and canned
+apples, were a source of great wonder; they would ask where they could
+get the fruit for that kind of a pudding. I know that they made wry
+faces at some dishes, and I know that we did ourselves, for some of
+them were beyond comparison; no chef in all the world could produce
+a good thing out of such materials.
+
+The May festival was given by the children, chiefly by the little
+girls of the cathedral congregation. The leader was a woman of fine
+character and standing. She worked hard every day with these little
+tots to train them to do their parts well, which consisted of marching
+into the cathedral by twos', arranging themselves into a circle
+about the Virgin Mother and throwing flowers and bouquets, singing
+and speaking. The ludicrous part of it all was that these little
+things were supposed to be dressed like American children. The models
+had been taken from some old magazine,--huge sleeves, small waists,
+skirt to the knees, and pantlets to the top of shoes. The shoes were
+painfully tight and the little feet, unaccustomed to being held in
+such close quarters, limped and hobbled piteously. The festival was
+carried on every day for weeks. Bushels of flowers were thrown at
+the figure of the Blessed Virgin.
+
+Some of the festivals in the larger cathedrals in Manila were gorgeous
+indeed. There were floats on which were carried the different
+patron saints, all gorgeously arrayed in the most magnificent
+costumes. Evidently the churches were never meant for the common
+or poor people, so few of them were ever seen within their walls;
+but without were vast crowds of beggars, of the blind, the deformed,
+the diseased; victims of smallpox and of leprosy in every stage of
+suffering. It is said that the first thing ordered by Bishop Brent,
+who took charge of the Protestant Episcopal church in the Philippines,
+was soap.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE McKINLEY CAMPAIGN.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY.
+
+
+The excitement on the islands ran quite high during the McKinley-Bryan
+campaign. The natives conceived that if Bryan were elected they could,
+in some way, they could not explain how, not only be very greatly
+benefited personally, but the U. S. troops would be withdrawn; they
+would then be rid not only of the Spaniards but of the Americans,
+and could then have a ruler of their own choosing. I knew that
+there were small papers or bulletins published to intensify these
+sentiments. Popular favor was all for Bryan and not one person for
+McKinley, while on the other hand I do not think there was a single
+soldier who was not a McKinley man. The feeling ran high, and, while
+our papers gave us every assurance that the Republican party would
+be victorious, we were very anxious for the news. On the night of the
+6th of November we had the glorious report. It did not take long for
+the shouts to go up from every American soldier. About eleven o'clock
+P. M. all the American officers and men formed in procession with the
+band at the head; they came around to the house where I was staying and
+called out, "Come, Mrs. Conger, you must join in this jubilee." I did
+not need a second invitation. Snatching my little American flag that I
+take wherever I go, I formed in line with the boys. We marched around
+and around the park, cheering, singing patriotic songs, and hurrahing
+for McKinley. In front of one of the houses where I knew they were the
+most bitter toward the Americans, we cheered lustily. I had been there
+only a few days before to purchase a Jusi dress for Mrs. McKinley. I
+said that I would like one of their very best weaves, as it would go
+to the White House to Mrs. McKinley. With a great deal of scorn in her
+voice and manner she declared she would not make it. We continued on
+our march through and around the town until after one o'clock, when I
+returned to my room. I was about to retire when a detachment from the
+Scouts came and said, "Oh, Mrs. Conger, we want you to come over to
+the park, we are going to have a big bonfire." So I went over and we
+had another jollification, hurrahing, singing, shouting for McKinley,
+until we made ourselves hoarse. We burned up all the old debris that
+we could gather and plenty of bamboo, which makes a cracking noise,
+quite like a roll of musketry. From every window and crevice in every
+house about that park native heads were gazing at us, and never one
+cheer came from a single throat, but we gave them to understand in
+no uncertain terms where we stood. I suppose they thought it was
+only one more unheard of thing for a woman to do, to be out marching
+and singing, and I am sure they thought "Señora Blanco," the name I
+was called by the people all over the Island of Panay, had gone mad;
+and I was certainly doing unheard of things, for, as I said before,
+it is not considered at all proper for a woman to be walking or
+riding with a man. And to think that a woman of my years, and the
+only American woman in that part of the country, would, at such an
+hour, be marching with those hundreds of boys in the dead of night
+was wholly beyond their comprehension, and they had no words adequate
+to express their disgust at my outburst of enthusiasm and patriotism.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+GOVERNOR TAFT AT JARO.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE.
+
+
+When Governor Taft and other members of the peace commission were
+expected at Iloilo and Jaro, there were great preparations for several
+weeks before hand. The guests came to Jaro for a morning reception at
+the home of one of the wealthy citizens. The house had been beautifully
+decorated and the refreshments were served in the large room at the
+left of the hall; the buffet luncheon consisted of every kind of cake
+and sweetmeats, champagne, wine, and beer. The Filipino guests were
+in the large front room, seated in rows, six or eight rows, perhaps
+twenty in a row, with their backs to each other or facing each other.
+
+I was the only American woman there until Mrs. Taft and other ladies
+with the peace commission arrived. Not wishing to sit solemnly in line
+gazing at these newly acquired sisters of mine, I ventured some remarks
+in Spanish about the weather and the coming guests. There was little
+response. My curiosity getting the better of me, I made bold to examine
+the gowns of these women for I had seldom seen before such handsome
+material, rich brocaded satins, cloth of gold wrought with seed pearls
+and jewels; huge strings of pearls on the neck, diamond and pearl
+rings on the fingers and very handsome ornaments in the hair; every
+head bore a huge pompadour and every face was heavily powdered; the
+perfume was stifling even with every window stretched to the fullest
+extent. Each woman carried a handsome fan and each was attended by at
+least one servant. After waiting in this rigid company manner about
+an hour and a half, the distinguished guests arrived. We were then
+entertained by some of the local artists and celebrities. There was
+vocal and instrumental music; a fine grand piano, very good violins,
+and the concert was by far the best music I had heard in the islands.
+
+At 1:30 we were all carried over in carriages to the house of the
+Presidente and thirty-five of us sat down to a very sumptuous banquet
+of about eighteen courses. The menu of soup, fish, game, birds,
+salads, was very quickly served, a waiter for each guest. The table
+was furnished with much silver and cut glass, and at each plate was
+a bouquet holder with napkin ring attached; there were after-dinner
+speeches by Governor Taft, Judge Wright, and others; then we were
+ushered into the large drawing-room where coffee and cigars were
+served. The room had been especially prepared by the labor of many days
+spent on tacking flags on the ceiling and side walls, making a very
+beautiful effect. There were huge bunches of artificial flowers. For
+the entertainment at this house, all the Filipino bands from the
+surrounding towns were massed together. Governor Taft complimented
+his hosts upon their very delightful "entretener," and said he had
+seen nothing to compare with it for elegance and enthusiastic welcome
+since he had been on the islands. At every corner of the plaza there
+were erected handsome bamboo arches and booths, and every strip of
+bunting and every flag that could be got out were waving in Jaro
+on this great day of inauguration of the Civil Commission on the
+Island of Panay. To me it seemed anything but a peaceful time as
+the scouts were then out after a very desperate band of insurrectos,
+but I have never seen anywhere more beautiful ornamentation or more
+lavish display of wealth, and yet there was lacking in it all the
+genuine ring of cordiality and enthusiasm. In Iloilo there were
+many receptions and various kinds of entertainments given. Governor
+Taft invited leading citizens out to the ship where he returned the
+compliment with refreshments, good cheer, and a salute.
+
+In writing of my life in the islands, I must mention incidents of
+serious nature and yet of common happening. Almost daily would come an
+instant call for troops to mount and ride post haste by night or day
+after some of these worse than lawless bands of Filipinos. One evening
+while we were at dinner we had as our guest a Lieutenant of one of the
+volunteer regiments. He had been ill and had spent the time of his
+convalescence in acquiring some of the manifold Filipino dialects,
+about sixty in all, it is said. He was detailed by the commanding
+officer to visit some of the inland villages and inspect the schools
+and inquire generally after the condition of the people. He told us
+that evening that he intended to make quite an extensive tour around
+the island of Panay in the interest of the schools. "You are going to
+take a strong guard, of course?" we asked. "Anyone going on such a
+peaceful mission as mine would not need even an orderly, but I will
+take an orderly to assist in carrying the books and pamphlets." The
+very next evening while we were at dinner, word was brought that this
+splendid young man had been killed not three miles from where we were
+sitting. In a few minutes men mounted and were off to the scene of
+the murder. In a nearby hut the young officer lay dead. He, who had so
+trustingly confided in these "peaceful people," had fallen the victim
+of his noble impulses. Every article of any value had been taken from
+his body except a little watch that he carried in a small leather case
+on his wrist; he had bought it that very day to send to his wife. No
+trace of the "insurrectos," the murderers, was ever found. A native
+woman said the officer was riding peacefully along with his orderly
+at his side when suddenly they were stopped by a volley of balls. The
+Lieutenant turned, as did also the orderly; their horses took fright,
+one rider was thrown, probably already dead, the other escaped. The
+funeral rites of our noble soldier were conducted with military honors;
+the body was sent home to his bereaved wife and family.
+
+One day a missionary was on his way from town to town; he had,
+unfortunately, an orderly with him. He was stopped and asked his
+business; he replied that he was a missionary. "Why carry a gun?" was
+the scornful retort. He was stripped of everything of value but was
+allowed to return. The soldier did not fare so well; he was killed
+before the rescuing party could reach him. A detachment was sent out
+one day to procure some young beef for sale in a nearby village. They
+were received with open arms by the Presidente of the village and the
+Padre and were most sumptuously entertained. It was kindly explained
+that they had no young cattle for sale but that about a mile further
+on there were some very fine young calves that could be had at five
+dollars in gold.
+
+Not thinking of any treachery, the soldiers mounted and rode about
+a mile beyond the village into a ravine which, according to the
+instructions, led to the cattle-field beyond. While crossing the stream
+in the bottom of the ravine, the men were startled by the whiz of
+bullets and, glancing up, found the steep banks lined with insurrectos
+who had opened fire without a moment's warning. Our men entrapped,
+surrounded, were ordered to surrender. For answer they put spurs to
+their horses and started back under a heavy fire. Unfortunately two of
+the fine horses were shot; their riders were obliged to run afoot the
+rest of the way up the bank and were picked up by their comrades. One
+of the men shouted, "Sergeant, don't you hear they are calling for
+us to surrender? Say are you going to?" With an oath, "No, not by
+a d---d sight. Run and fight." Which they did and actually got away
+from hundreds of natives and arrived in Jaro breathless and weary, the
+horses covered with foam. Not a man had been killed or wounded. Two
+horses were killed outright, but none were maimed. Soon the troop
+was in the saddle and out after those treacherous miscreants. Many
+natives were arrested and brought to town and then it was found that
+this loyal (?) Presidente, whom the commanding general had had the
+utmost confidence in was at the head of a number of Filipino companies
+which scoured the country to capture small parties of our soldiers. As
+the investigations were pressed it came out that the bodies of their
+victims had been torn to pieces and buried in quicklime that there
+might be no traces left of their treachery. It was several weeks
+before the full facts were obtained and before the mutilated remains
+of our soldiers were found and brought back and buried.
+
+The volunteer regiments suffered most from these brutal cowards,
+directed and urged on by the "very best men" in civil and "sacred"
+office. These are facts from the lips of U. S. officers, men who do
+not lie. Very often the troops were called out to capture these bloody
+bands, but it was hard to locate them or bring them to a stand. The
+natives knew so many circuitous ways of running to cover and they
+had so many friends to aid them that it was almost impossible to
+follow them. Whenever they were captured they were so surprised,
+so humiliated, so innocent, meek and subdued, that it would never
+occur to an honest man that they could know how to handle a bolo
+or a gun. But experience taught that the most guileless in looks
+were the worst desperadoes of all. My first sight of a squad of
+these captives is a thing not to be forgotten. They were a scrubby
+lot of hardly human things, stunted, gnarled pigmies, with no hats
+or shoes, and scarcely a rag of clothing. Their cruel knives, the
+deadly bolos, were the only things they could be stripped of. I looked
+down upon them from my window in astonishment. "It is not possible,"
+I exclaimed, "that these miserable creatures are samples of what is
+called the Filipino army." "Yes," an officer replied, "these are the
+fellows that never fight; that only stab in the back and mutilate
+the dying and dead." My eyes turned to the guard, our own soldiers,
+fine, manly fellows, who fairly represented the personnel of our own
+splendid army. It made me indignant that one of them should suffer
+at the hands of such vermin or rather at the hands of the religious
+manipulators who stood in safety behind their ignorant degraded slaves.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SHIPWRECK.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO.
+
+
+The climate seemed beyond physical endurance, although the thermometer
+ranged no higher than from ninety to one hundred ten, but the heat was
+continuous night and day; exhaustion without relief. The only time that
+one could get a breath was about five o'clock in the morning; in the
+middle of the day the sun's rays are white-hot needles,--this is the
+only way that I can express it; and even if one carries an umbrella,
+the heat pierces directly through. From the first of November to
+the middle of December, there is usually about six or seven hours
+a day of comparative comfort; but the season is too short to brace
+the enervated body. One day the thermometer fell to seventy-eight;
+we Americans shivered and craved a fire, so much did we feel the
+change of temperature.
+
+I finally learned from the natives that it is not best after bathing,
+to rub the body with a towel; and indeed, following them more closely,
+that it is wise to feed with cocoanut oil the famished pores of the
+skin which has been weakened by excessive exudation. The rainy season
+begins in April, usually, and gives some relief from the excessive
+heat; and such rains, never in my life had I known before what it
+was to have rain come down by the barrelful! The two-story house in
+which we were quartered was quite solidly built, and the boards of
+the second story were over-lapped to keep out the rain; and yet,
+I have often had to get up on the bed or table while the water
+poured in at innumerable unsuspected cracks and swept the floor
+like a torrent. It was hard to tell which frightened one the most,
+the terrible rain-storms or the awful earthquakes. In the house
+there was a magnificent glass chandelier. The first time we had a
+severe earthquake that chandelier swayed back and forth in such a
+wild way that it seemed as if it must fall and crush every prism,
+tiny light, and bell. I felt sure whenever a quake began that I
+should not live through it. The flying fragments across the room,
+the creaking hard-wood doors, the nauseating feeling that everything
+under foot was falling away,--it was a frightful experience then,
+it is a sickening memory now. One never gets used to these shocks no
+matter how many occur; the more, the worse. They are more frequent
+in the night than in the day. It was not quite so bad if the wild
+start from uneasy slumber was followed by a cheery voice calling,
+"Hello there, are you alive, has anything hurt you, has anything
+struck?" Even the rats are terrified, and the natives, almost to a
+soul, leave their houses, congregate in the middle of the street,
+and begin to pray. Sometimes a fierce wind from the north brings sad
+havoc to the hastily built bamboo houses; a whole street of these
+slightly constructed dwellings is toppled over or lies aslant, or is
+swept away. At first we used to smile at the storm signal displayed at
+Iloilo. If the sky was clear and still, we would start out confidently
+on some trip, to the next town perhaps; before we had gone more than
+a half mile we would be drenched through and through and no cloud,
+not even as big as a man's hand was to be seen; at other times dense
+clouds, the blackest clouds, would shut down close upon us,--such are
+the strange variations. No sort of sailing craft ever leaves the port
+when the signals are up for one of these hurricane storms; if caught
+out in them they put instantly into the nearest port. Shipwrecks are
+frequent, partly on account of these sudden storms, but chiefly on
+account of the shifting sands of the course.
+
+From Manila to Iloilo on a boat that had been purchased for the use
+of the government, I was, on one occasion, the only passenger on
+board. The captain had never been over this course before, but he was
+confident of getting through with the help of a Spanish chart. About
+two o'clock in the morning I sprang to my feet alarmed by the harsh
+grinding of the boat's keel, the scurrying of many feet, the shouting
+of quick orders. The shock of the boat blew out all lamps; in the
+darkness I opened the door of my cabin and ran to find the captain,
+guided by his voice. I learned that we were aground. I asked him if
+I could help. "Yes, if you can carry messages to the engineer and
+translate them into Spanish." I ran to and fro, stumbling up or down,
+forgetting every time I passed that a certain part of the ship had a
+raised ledge. The effort was to prop the boat with spars that it might
+not tip as it crunched and settled down upon the coral reefs. We could
+hardly wait until daylight to measure the predicament. When the light
+grew clear so that I saw the illuminated waters, there was a scene of
+new and wonderful beauty,--a garden of the sea, a coral grove. Far as
+the eye could reach there was every conceivable color, shape, and kind
+of coral,--pink, green, yellow, and white. It all looked so safe and
+soft, as if one might crush it in the hands; and yet these huge cakes
+of coral were like adamant, except the delicate fern-like spikes that
+were so viciously piercing the bottom of our boat. I saw all kinds of
+sea shells, the lovely nautilus spreading its sails on the surface,
+and the huge devil-fish sprawling at the bottom of the shallow pools,
+with its many tentacles thrown out on every side.
+
+With innumerable ants, swarms of mosquitoes, lizards everywhere,
+rats by the million, mice, myriads of langoustas or grass-hoppers,
+long cockroaches, squeaking bugs, monkeys that stole everything they
+could lay their hands on, the fear of the deadly bolo, the dread
+each night of waking up amid flame and smoke, earthquakes, tornadoes,
+dreadful thunders and lightnings, torrents of water, life sometimes
+seemed hard; each new day was but a repetition of yesterday, and I
+used constantly to rely upon the assured promises--Psalms XCI:
+
+"He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide
+under the shadow of the Almighty.
+
+"I will say of the Lord, he is my refuge and my fortress: my God:
+in him will I trust.
+
+"Surely he shall deliver thee from the snare of the fowler, and from
+the noisome pestilence.
+
+"He shall cover thee with his feathers, and under his wings shalt
+thou trust; his truth shall be thy shield and buckler.
+
+"Thou shalt not be afraid for the terror by night; nor for the arrow
+that flieth by day;
+
+"Nor for the pestilence that walketh in darkness; nor for the
+destruction that wasteth at noonday.
+
+"A thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy right hand;
+but it shall not come nigh thee.
+
+"Only with thine eyes shalt thou behold and see the reward of the
+wicked.
+
+"Because thou hast made the Lord, which is my refuge, even the most
+High, thy habitation;
+
+"There shall no evil befall thee, neither shall any plague come nigh
+thy dwelling.
+
+"For he shall give his angels charge over thee, to keep thee in all
+thy ways.
+
+"They shall bear thee up in their hands, lest thou dash thy foot
+against a stone.
+
+"Thou shalt tread upon the lion and the dragon shalt thou trample
+under feet.
+
+"Because he hath set his love upon thee, therefore will I deliver him:
+I will set him on high, because he hath known my name.
+
+"He shall call upon me, and I will answer him: I will be with him in
+trouble; I will deliver him, and honour him.
+
+"With long life will I satisfy him, and show him my salvation."
+
+Looking down from my window every day into the faces of six or more
+dead bodies that were brought to the cathedral, I knew that "The
+pestilence was walking in the darkness."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FILIPINO DOMESTIC LIFE.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE.
+
+
+The houses are made of bamboo; some of them are pretty, quite artistic;
+the plain ones cost about seventy-five cents each; no furniture of
+any kind is needed. The native food is rice, or, as it is called in
+the vernacular, "Sow-sow." It is cooked in an earthen pot set upon
+stones with a few lighted twigs thrust under it for fire. When it is
+eaten with nature's forks--the fingers--with a relish of raw fish,
+it is the chief article of diet.
+
+House-cleaning is one thing that I never saw in practice or evidence. I
+took a supply of lye with me and it was a huge joke to see the natives
+use it in cleaning the floors.
+
+The windows are made of oyster shells which are thin and flat;
+these cut in three-inch squares make a window peculiarly adapted to
+withstand the heavy storms and earthquakes; it transmits a pleasant
+opalescent light.
+
+Coffee is raised, but not widely used by the natives; they prefer
+chocolate.
+
+After many unsuccessful attempts, I gave up trying to have my dishes
+washed in my way; I soon discovered that the servants used the tea
+towels on their bodies. This convinced me, and I let them wash mine
+as they did their own, by pouring water on each dish separately,
+rinsing and setting to dry on the porch in the sun, the only place
+where the vermin would not crawl over them.
+
+The irons used for pressing clothes are like a smooth, round-bottomed
+skillet, the inside is filled with lighted sticks and embers. The
+operator, who sits on the floor, passes this smoking mass over the
+thing to be pressed. The article, when finished, looks as if it had
+been sat upon.
+
+One Palm Sunday I visited five different churches in all of which
+were palms in profusion, woven into almost innumerable forms; fishes,
+birds in and out of cages, trees, fruits, flowers, crosses, crowns,
+sceptres, mitres, and saints' emblems. The cathedral at Arevalo looked
+like a huge garden, but, in one second after it had been discovered
+that a white woman and an American officer were present, the entire
+congregation, rising, turned to look at us; it seemed as if a whirlwind
+were sweeping the palms, so nervous were the hands that held them.
+
+After the service, the crowd came out and vanished immediately,
+fear of an attack having overcome their curiosity.
+
+Nearly all the little children are naked. One day I saw a little
+fellow about three years old who was suffering severely with the
+smallpox. He was smoking a huge cigar of the kind the natives make by
+rolling the natural tobacco leaf and tying it with a bit of bamboo
+fibre. He did look ridiculous. A native teacher told me that they
+all begin to smoke when about two years old; poor, little, stunted,
+starved things, fed on half cooked rice and raw fish.
+
+Drunkenness is comparatively rare among the natives; the intoxicating
+beverage is the "Tuba," which is made about as follows: The flowers
+of the cocoanut are cut while still in bud and the sap, or "Beno,"
+caught in a tube of bamboo; the liquor is gathered daily as we gather
+maple sap and fermented by the addition of a piece of wood, which
+also imparts a slight color. The product of this fermentation is an
+insidious stimulant. I never tasted it, but one poor soldier told
+me his sad experience and that sufficed. After a particularly hard
+march, his company came to a halt in a village; he asked for water,
+but could get only this innocent looking "Beno;" he took one tiny
+glass; it tasted like cologne water; his thirst not being quenched,
+he took a second and a third glass, after which he proceeded to make
+a howling mob of himself. This, since it happened in the face of the
+enemy, with momentary expectation of attack, was a serious offence
+enough, but coupled with the fact that he was "on guard" at the time,
+entailed punishments, the rigor of which, can be guessed only by
+those familiar with army discipline.
+
+Once a party of officers and men were going from one island to another,
+carrying money and food for the soldiers. It was found, after starting,
+that they were not so heavily guarded as they should be, in view of
+the fact that they would be exposed to attack when in the narrow
+channels between the islands. At one point where they were hemmed
+in, not only by the islands, but by a number of sailing crafts, the
+Captain, a Filipino, very seriously asked the Paymaster if he had
+plenty of fire arms; his reply was, "Oh, muchee fusile," meaning,
+"Oh, very much fire arms." To add to the horror of the situation
+they were becalmed. The Captain became very much alarmed and the
+soldiers more so. Strange to relate, there came a gale of wind that
+not only blew them out into a wider channel beyond the reach of their
+insurrecto friends, but put them well on their way. This was told me
+as being almost like a miracle. No one can ever realize until they
+have been caught in one of these terrific gales what their severity
+is. I remember one blast that tore my hair down and swept away every
+article of loose clothing, also some things that I had just purchased;
+I never saw them again. It would not occur to the natives to return
+anything that they found, even if they knew that they never could use
+it; they all professed friendship to my face, and were constantly
+begging for any little article that I might have, but they never
+returned anything they saw me drop or that had been blown away.
+
+We had, at one time, a peace society formed, there was an attendance
+of all the women of Jaro, some from Iloilo, and the President was
+chosen from Molo. I took pleasure in joining this society for the
+maintenance of peace and fraternal feeling with the Filipinos.
+
+One day I thought it my duty to call upon the President of the
+new peace commission. She lived in the town of Molo. I invited a
+native woman to accompany me, and secured a guard of soldiers and an
+interpreter. Such a commotion as the visit created. The interpreter
+explained that I had called to pay my respects, as I was the only
+American woman who had joined the peace society. The President
+was pale with fright at my coming, though I had with me a woman
+whom she knew very well. After she had recovered from the shock,
+we had a very agreeable time. She called in some of her family; one
+daughter played well on the piano, a large grand, and another played
+upon the violin. In the meantime refreshments were served in lavish
+profusion. They offered me very handsome cloths and embroideries,
+which I declined with thanks. It is a common custom to make presents.
+
+I had agreed with this Filipino friend to exchange views on points of
+etiquette and social manners. She told me that I had committed quite
+a breach of propriety in allowing the interpreter, who was a soldier,
+to ride on the front seat of the carriage; that it would become known
+everywhere that she and I actually had a man ride with us. It is not
+customary for even husbands and wives to drive together. My criticism
+was, "We do not like the manner of your ladies expectorating. In
+America we consider it a very filthy and offensive habit." She was
+quite surprised that we were so very particular and asked me if we
+chewed the spittle.
+
+A large cathedral was situated just across the street, a circumstance
+that enabled me to witness many ceremonies of the Roman church, of
+whose existence I had no previous knowledge; daily services were held,
+and all the Saints' days were observed. On festivals of especial
+importance there were very gorgeous processions. The principal
+features were the bands of music, the choir, acolytes, priests, and
+rich people,--the poor have no place--all arrayed in purple and fine
+linen; gold, silver, pearls, and rare jewels sparkled in the sun by
+day, or, at night, in the light of the candles and torches carried
+by thousands of men, women and children.
+
+It was a trying experience to be awakened from sound sleep by the
+firing of guns. It was necessary to be always armed and ready to
+receive the "peaceful people." (We read daily in the American papers
+that all danger was over.)
+
+A characteristic feature of each town is a plaza at its center, and
+here the people have shrines or places of worship at the corners,
+the wealthier people, only, having them in their homes.
+
+Smallpox is a disease of such common occurrence that the natives
+have no dread of it; the mortality from this one cause alone is
+appalling. This brings to mind the funeral ceremony, which, since the
+natives are all Catholics, is always performed by the padre or priest.
+
+In red, pink, or otherwise gayly decorated coffin, the corpse,
+which is often exposed to view and sometimes covered with cheap
+paper flowers, bits of lace and jewelry, is taken to the church,
+where there are already as many as five or six bodies at a time
+awaiting the arrival of the priest to say prayers and sprinkle holy
+water upon them. If the family of the deceased is too poor to buy or
+rent a coffin, the body is wrapped in a coarse mat, slung on a pole,
+and carried to the outer door of the church, to have a little water
+sprinkled thereon or service said over it. If the families are unable
+to rent a spot of earth in the cemetery, their dead are dumped into a
+pile and left to decay and bleach upon the surface. In contrast with
+this brutal neglect of the poor, is the lavish expenditure of the
+rich. The daughter of one of the wealthy residents having died, the
+body was placed in a casket elaborately trimmed with blue satin, the
+catafalque also was covered with blue satin and trimmed with ruffles
+of satin and lace. In the funeral procession, the coffin was carried
+on the shoulders of several young men, while at the sides walked young
+ladies, each dressed in a blue satin gown with a long train and white
+veil, and each lavishly decorated with precious jewels. They held long,
+blue satin ribbons fastened to the casket. At the door of the church
+the casket was taken in charge by three priests, attended by thirty
+or forty choir boys, acolytes, and others, and placed upon a black
+pedestal about thirty feet high and completely surrounded by hundreds
+of candles, many of which were held in gilded figures of cherubim;
+the whole was surmounted by a flambeau made by immersing cotton in
+alcohol. The general effect was of a huge burning pile. Incense was
+burned every where in and about the edifice, which was elaborately
+decorated with satin festoons, palms, artificial flowers, emblems
+wrought in beads, all in profusion and arranged with native taste. All
+this, with the intonation of the priests, the chanting of the choir,
+and the blaring of three bands, made a weird and impressive scene
+never to be forgotten. After the ceremony, which lasted about an
+hour, the body was taken to the cemetery, and, as it was by this
+time quite dark, each person in the procession carried a torch or
+candle. I noticed quite a number of Chinese among the following,
+evidently friends, and these were arrayed in as gorgeous apparel as
+the natives. The remains having been disposed of, there was a grand
+reception given in the evening in honor of the deceased.
+
+It is customary to have a dance every Sunday evening, and each woman
+has a chair in which she sits while not dancing. The priests not only
+attend, but participate most heartily.
+
+I was told that among the papers captured in Manila was a document
+which proved to be the last bull issued by the Pope to the King of
+Spain (1895 or 96). This was an agreement between the Pope and the
+King, whereby the former conveys to the latter the right to authorize
+the sale of indulgences. The King, in turn, sold this right to the
+padres and friars in the islands. Absolution from a lie cost the
+sinner six pesos, or three dollars in gold; other sins in proportion to
+their enormity and the financial ability of the offender. The annual
+income of the King of Spain from this system has been estimated at
+the modest figure of ten millions.
+
+The discovery of this and other documents is due to a party of
+interpreters who became greatly fascinated by the unearthing
+process. In the same church in which these were found, the men
+investigated the gambling tables and found them controlled and
+manipulated from the room below by means of traps, tubes, and other
+appliances. An interesting fact in this connection is that one of
+the interpreters was himself a Romanist, and loath to believe his
+eyes, but the evidence was convincing, and he was forced to admit
+it. Gambling is a national custom, deeply rooted.
+
+I shall never forget the joy I experienced when we got two milch
+cows. What visions of milk, cream, and butter,--fresh butter, not
+canned; then, too, to see the natives milk was truly a diversion;
+they went at it from the wrong side, stood at as great a distance
+as the length of arms permitted, and in a few seconds were through,
+having obtained for their trouble about a pint of milk--an excellent
+milk-man's fluid--a blue and chalky mixture.
+
+One day I heard what seemed to be a cry of distress, half human in
+entreaty, and I rushed to see what could be the matter. There, on its
+back, was a goat being milked; there were four boys, each holding a
+leg, while the fifth one milked upward into a cocoanut shell. It was
+a ludicrous sight.
+
+One of their dainties is cooked grasshoppers, which are sold by the
+bushel in the markets. I cannot recommend this dish, for I never
+was able to summon sufficient courage to test it, but I should think
+it would be as delectable as the myriad little dried fish which are
+eaten with garlic as a garnish and flavor.
+
+The poor little horses are half starved and otherwise maltreated by
+the natives, who haven't the least idea of how to manage them. They
+beat them to make them go, then pull up sharply on the reins which
+whirls them round and round or plunges them right and left, often
+into the ditches beside the road. It was no uncommon sight to see
+officers or men getting out of their quielas to push and pull to get
+the animal started, only to have the driver whip and jerk as before.
+
+Some of the natives bought the American horses and it was painful to
+see them try to make our noble steeds submit to methods a la Filipino.
+
+Beggars by the thousand were everywhere, blind, lame, and deformed;
+homeless, they wandered from town to town to beg, especially on
+market days. One blind woman, who lived on the road from Iloilo to
+Jaro, had collected seventy-five "mex," only to have it stolen by
+her sister. Complaint was made to the military commander, but it was
+found that the money had been spent and that there was no redress to
+be had. She must continue to beg while her sister lived hard by in
+the new "shack" which she had built with the stolen "denaro" (money).
+
+About three miles from Jaro was quite a leper colony, shunned,
+of course, by the natives. During confession, the lepers kneeled
+several rods away from the priests. I saw one poor woman whose feet
+were entirely gone lashed to a board so she could drag herself along
+by the aid of her hands, which had not yet begun to decay.
+
+There were no visible means of caring for the sick and afflicted; the
+insane were kept in stocks or chained to trees, and the U. S. hospitals
+were so overtaxed by the demands made upon them by our own soldiers
+that little space or attention could be spared to the natives. Charity
+begins at home.
+
+God bless the dear women who nursed our sick soldiers; it was my
+pleasure to know quite intimately several of these girls who have
+made many a poor boy more comfortable. I am proud, too, of our
+U. S. Army; of course not all of the men were of the Sunday School
+order, but under such great discomforts, in such deadly perils, and
+among such treacherous people, nothing more can be expected of mortal
+men than they rendered. Many poor boys trusted these natives to their
+sorrow. They accepted hospitality and their death was planned right
+before their eyes, they, of course, not understanding the language
+sufficiently to comprehend what was intended. They paid the penalty
+of their trust with their lives.
+
+On Decoration Day we were able to make beautiful wreaths and
+crosses. Our soldiers marched to the cemeteries and placed the
+flowers on the graves of the brave boys who had given their lives in
+defence of the flag. I had the pleasure of representing the mothers,
+whose spiritual presence was, I felt sure, with those far-away loved
+ones. An officer has written me that Memorial Day was again observed
+this year, and I am sure it was done fittingly.
+
+A Protestant mission was established at Jaro, in a bamboo chapel,
+pure bamboo throughout, roof, walls, windows, seats, floor. The seats,
+however, were seldom used, for the natives prefer to squat on the
+floor. The congregation consisted of men, women, and children, many
+of whom came on foot from a distance of twenty or more miles, the
+older people scantily clad, and the children entirely naked; a more
+attentive audience would be hard to find, as all were eager to get the
+"cheap religion." None of the inhabitants of Jaro attend, as yet;
+they fear to do so, since they are under the strict surveillance
+of the padre, and are in the shadow of the seminary for priests,
+the educational center of the island of Panay.
+
+The Protestant minister is a graduate of this institution and is
+subject to all imaginable abuses and insults. Under his teachings,
+a great many have been baptized, who seemed devoutly in earnest; it
+is inspiring to hear them sing with great zeal the familiar hymns,
+"Rock of Ages," "Safe in the Arms of Jesus," etc. One incident
+will suffice to illustrate the intense and determined opposition to
+Protestantism. One of the native teachers was warned not to return
+to his home, but, in defiance of all threats, he did so, and was
+murdered before the eyes of his family. I shall expect to hear that
+many other missionaries have been disposed of in a similar manner,
+after the withdrawal of the American troops.
+
+Many ask my opinion as to the value of these possessions; to me they
+seem rich beyond all estimate. A friend whom I met there, a man who
+has seen practically the whole world, said that, for climate and
+possibilities, he knew of no country to compare with the Philippines.
+
+The young generation is greedy for knowledge and anxious to progress,
+though the older people do not take kindly to innovations, but cling
+to their old superstitions and cruelties. God grant the better day
+may come soon.
+
+There was quite an ambition among the natives to be musical;
+they picked up quickly, "by ear," some of the catchy things our
+band played. When I heard them playing "A Hot Time in the Old Town
+To-night," on their way to the cemetery, I could not restrain my
+laughter, and if the deceased were of the order of Katapunan the
+prophecy was fulfilled. Officers informed me that this society was
+probably the worst one ever organized, more deadly than anarchists
+ever were. It was originated by the Masons, but the priests acquired
+control of it and made it a menace to law and order. I should not
+have escaped with my life had it not been for one of the best friends
+I have ever known, a "mestizo," part Spanish and part Filipino. She
+undoubtedly saved my life by declaring that before anything was done
+to me she and her husband must be sacrificed. "Greater love hath no
+man than this." They were influential people throughout the islands,
+and nothing occurred.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ISLANDS CEBU AND ROMBLOM.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR.
+
+
+The various islands seemed to have their own peculiarities. Cebu is
+famous for vast quantities of Manila hemp; also for shell spoons;
+these are beautiful, of various sizes, and colors, according to the
+shell they are cut from. They are especially appropriate in serving
+fish. The abaka-cloth of this island is the finest made, and its pearl
+fisheries are valuable. In 1901 a lively insurrection was going on in
+Cebu. The banks of the bay were lined with refugees who had come from
+the inland to be protected from their enemies. There were hundreds
+of them, but not a single cooking utensil amongst them. Some would
+go up to the market place and buy a penny's worth of rice skillfully
+put up in a woven piece of bamboo. And lucky for them if they had
+the penny. The rest spent their time fishing.
+
+The cathedral of Cebu, built of stone, is especially fine. It has for
+its Patron Saint, a babe, Santa Niña. The story is that at one time
+there were a great many babies stricken with a malady; the parents
+vowed if the Holy Mother would spare their children they would build
+this cathedral.
+
+One of the largest prisons is at Cebu. We were shown many of the
+dungeons; there were then confined within those walls many very
+bad Insurrectos.
+
+As we were eager to visit one of the large estates, we were given a
+heavy guard and went inland about two miles from the port; it was
+certainly a fine plantation, much better kept than any I had ever
+seen before. We were apparently cordially received, and were assured
+if we would only stay we could partake of some of the family pig,
+that was even then wandering around in the best room in the house.
+
+The floor of the large reception room was polished as perfectly as a
+piano top; its boards were at least eighteen inches wide and sixteen to
+twenty feet long. I asked several persons the name of this beautiful
+place, but could not find out. On the sideboard were quantities of
+fine china and silver that had been received only a few days before
+from Spain, there was a large grand piano, and there were eight or
+ten chairs in the center of the room forming a hollow square. Here
+we were seated and were offered refreshments of wine, cigars and
+"dulce." While this place seemed isolated it was not more than ten
+minutes before we had a gathering of several hundred natives, indeed
+our visit was shortened by the fear that we might be outnumbered and
+captured, and so we hastened back to quarters.
+
+While all the islands are tropical in appearance, Cebu is pre-eminently
+luxuriant. We were sorry not to stay longer and learn more of its
+people and its industries.
+
+Romblom is considered by many the most picturesque of the islands. The
+entrance is certainly beautiful; small ships can come up to the
+dock. The town itself is on the banks of a wonderful stream of water
+that has been brought down from the hills above. There is a finely
+constructed aqueduct that must have cost the Spaniards a great deal
+of money, even with cheap labor. It is certainly a very delightfully
+situated little town. This place is famous for its mats; they are woven
+of every conceivable color and texture, and are of all sizes, from
+those for a child's bed to those for the side of a house. The edges of
+some mats are woven to look like lace, and some like embroidery. They
+range in price from fifty cents to fifty dollars. Every one who visits
+Romblom is sure to bring away a mat.
+
+On every island much corn is raised, perhaps for export; certainly
+the staple is rice. Quite a number of young men who were officers in
+our volunteer regiments, have located on the island of Guimeras, and
+I have no doubt that, with their New England thrift, they will be able
+to secure magnificent crops. The soil is amazingly rich; under skilled
+care it will produce a hundred fold. Many of the islands are so near
+to one another that it is an easy matter to pass from island to island.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LITERATURE.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE.
+
+
+In no house of any town, on any island, nor in the very best houses
+of the so-called very best families, did I ever see any books,
+newspapers, magazines, periodicals of any kind whatever. One woman
+triumphantly took out of a box a book, nicely folded up in wax paper,
+a history of the United States, printed in 1840. In a lower room of a
+large house, once a convent, but now occupied by two or three priests,
+there were perhaps four or five hundred books written in Spanish and
+Latin on church matters. One reason for the dearth of books is the
+difficulty of protecting them from the ravages of the ants. We found
+to our horror that our books were devoured by them. And then the times
+were troublous and things were out of joint. In the large seminary at
+Molo, where hundreds of girls are taught every year, I did not see a
+single book of any kind or any printed matter, except a few pamphlets
+concerning the Roman church. The girls work on embroideries, and surely
+for fineness they surpass all others. They do the most cobweb-like
+drawn work, and on this are wrought roses, lilies, and butterflies
+with outspread wings that look as if they had just lighted down to sip
+the nectar from the blossoms; these very fine embroideries are done
+on the piña cloth. It is no wonder that the people would get even the
+advertisements on our canned goods and ask any American whom they met
+what the letters were and what the words meant. Our empty cans with
+tomato, pear, peach labels were to them precious things. Whereever
+our soldiers were, the adults and the children crowded around them
+and impromptu classes were formed to spell out all the American words
+they could find; even the newspaper wrappers and the letter envelopes,
+that were thrown away, were carefully picked up so as to glean the
+meaning of these "Americano" words. There was near our quarters a very
+large building that was used for the education of boys; one can form
+some idea of the size of this building when two or three regiments
+were encamped there with all their equipments.
+
+There may have been books here, once, but nothing was left when our
+troops occupied it except a few pictures on the walls, a few tables
+and desks, a few chairs and sleeping mats.
+
+There was a little story in connection with the bell tower on one
+side of the plaza in Jaro; this tower was about eighty feet high,
+had a roof and niches for seven or eight good sounding bells. From
+the top of this tower one could see many miles in every direction;
+when the Philippine army fled from the town they immediately thought
+our soldiers might ascend the tower and watch their course, so
+they burned the staircases. Alas for the little children who had
+taken refuge in the tower! As the flames swept up the stairways,
+they fled before them; two of them actually clung to the clapper of
+one great bell, and there they hung until its frame was burned away
+and the poor little things fell with the falling bell. Their remains
+were found later by our soldiers, the small hands still faithful
+to their hold. The bells were in time replaced and doubtless still
+chime out the hours of the day. It is the duty of one man to attend
+to the bells; the greater the festival day the oftener and longer
+they ring. When they rang a special peal for some special service,
+I tried to attend. One day there was an unusual amount of commotion
+and clanging, so I determined to go over to the service. Hundreds of
+natives had gathered together. To my surprise, six natives came in
+bearing on their shoulders a bamboo pole; from this pole a hammock
+was suspended, in which some one was reclining; but over the entire
+person, hammock, and pole, was thrown a thick bamboo net, entirely
+concealing all within; it was taken up to the chancel and whoever
+was in that hammock was given the sacrament. He was, no doubt, some
+eminent civilian or officer, for the vast congregation rose to their
+feet when the procession came in and when it passed out. I asked
+two or three of the Filipino women, whom I knew well, who it was,
+but they professed not to know. They always treated me with respect
+when I attended any of their services and placed a chair for me. I
+noticed how few carried books to church. I do not believe I ever saw
+a dozen books in the hands of worshipers in any of the cathedrals,
+and I visited a great many, five on Palm Sunday, 1900. I know from
+the children themselves, and from their teachers, that there are
+complaints about the size of the books and about the number which
+they have to get their lessons from in the new schools.
+
+There are three American newspapers in Manila, and one American
+library. The grand success of the library more than repays all the cost
+and trouble of establishing it. One must experience it to know the
+joy of getting letters, magazines, papers, and books that come once
+or twice a month, only. It really seemed when the precious mail bags
+were opened that their treasures were too sacred to be even handled. We
+were so hungry and thirsty for news from home, for reading matter in
+this bookless country, where even a primer would have been a prize.
+
+I alternated between passive submission to island laziness,
+shiftlessness, slovenliness, dirt, and active assertion of Ohio
+vim. Sick of vermin and slime, I would take pail, scrubbing brush
+and lye, and fall to; sick of it all, I would get a Summit county
+breakfast, old fashioned pan cakes for old times' sake; sick of the
+native laundress who cleansed nothing, I would give an Akron rub myself
+to my own clothes and have something fit to wear. These attacks of
+energy depended somewhat on the temperature, somewhat on exhausted
+patience, somewhat on homesickness, but most on dread of revolt and
+attack; or of sickening news--not of battle, but of assassination and
+mutilation. Whether I worked or rested, I was careful to sit or stand
+close to a wall--to guard against a stab in the back. I smile now,
+not gaily, at the picture of myself over a washtub, a small dagger
+in my belt, a revolver on a stool within easy reach of my steady,
+right hand, rubbing briskly while the tears of homesickness rolled
+down in uncontrollable floods, but singing, nevertheless, with might
+and main:--
+
+
+			"Am I a soldier of the Cross,
+			  A follower of the Lamb?
+			And shall I fear to own His cause,
+			  Or blush to speak His name?
+
+			"Must I be carried to the skies
+			  On flowery beds of ease,
+			While others fought to win the prize,
+			  And sailed through bloody seas?"
+
+
+Singing as triumphantly as possible to the last verse and word of
+that ringing hymn. My door and windows were set thick with wondering
+faces and staring eyes, a Señora washing. These Americans were past
+understanding! And that revolver--they shivered as they looked at it,
+and not one doubted that it would be vigorously used if needed. And I
+looked at them, saying to myself, as I often did, "You poor miserable
+creatures, utterly neglected, utterly ignorant and degraded."
+
+No wonder that the diseased, the deformed, the blind, the one-toed, the
+twelve-toed, and monstrous parts and organs are the rule rather than
+the exception. These things are true of nine-tenths of this people.
+
+
+
+
+                            THE ADVERTISER.
+
+                      ILOILO 25th. NOVEMBER 1899.
+
+                                 EXTRA.
+
+                          Reuter's Telegrams.
+
+
+                           THE TRANSVAAL WAR.
+
+LONDON 25th. Novr.--The British losses at Belmont are stated at 48
+killed, 146 wounded, and 21 missing. The losses include four Officers
+killed and 21 wounded and are chiefly Guardsmen.
+
+50 Boers were taken prisoner, including the German commandant and
+six Field Cornets.
+
+The British Infantry are said to have behaved splendidly and were
+admirably supported by the Artillery and the Naval Brigade, carrying
+three Ridges successively. The Victory is a most complete one. It is
+stated that the enemy fought with the greatest courage and skill.
+
+
+This Extra was Issued Daily--Eighty-four Mexican Dollars per Year.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GORDON SCOUTS.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX.
+
+
+The Gordon Scouts were a detachment made up of volunteers from the
+Eighteenth U. S. Infantry. They were under direct command of Captain
+W. A. Gordon and Lieutenant A. L. Conger. The captain lost health and
+was sent home; thus the troop was, for about a year, under the command
+of Lieutenant Conger. It would not be proper for me to tell of the
+wonderful expeditions and the heroic deeds of the Gordon Scouts. No
+one was more generous in praise of them than General Del Gardo, now
+governor of the Island of Panay. He told me often of his great esteem
+for my son and of the generous way in which he treated his prisoners
+and captives. Surely men were never kinder to a woman than these
+scouts were to me; they most affectionately called me Mother Conger
+and treated me always with the greatest respect and kindness. I hope
+some day the history of this brave band of men will be written, with
+its more than romantic campaigns and wonderful exploits, marches,
+dangers, and miraculous escapes. Few men were wounded or disabled,
+notwithstanding all the tedious marches in most impenetrable swamps
+and mountains, with no guide but the stars by night and the sun by
+day, and no maps or trusted men to guide them. I recall the bravery
+of one man who was shot through the abdomen, and when they stopped to
+carry him away he said, "Leave me here; I cannot live, and you may
+all be captured or killed." They tenderly placed him in a blanket,
+carried him to a place of safety, and, when he died, they brought
+him back to Jaro and buried him with military honors. He was the only
+man killed in all the months of their arduous tasks.
+
+If I have any courage I owe it to my grandmother. I will perhaps
+be pardoned if I say that all my girlhood life was spent with my
+Grandmother Bronson, a very small woman, weighing less than ninety
+pounds, small featured, always quaintly dressed in the old-fashioned
+Levantine silk with two breadths only in the skirt, a crossed silk
+handkerchief with a small white one folded neatly across her breast,
+a black silk apron, dainty cap made of sheer linen lawn with full
+ruffles. She it was who entered into all my child life and who used to
+tell me of her early pioneer days, and of her wonderful experiences
+with the Indians. In the War of 1812, fearing for his little family,
+my grandfather started her back to Connecticut on horse back with
+her four little children, the youngest, my father, only six months
+old. The two older children walked part of the way; whoever rode
+had to carry the baby and the next smallest child rode on a pillion
+that was tied to the saddle. In this way she accomplished the long
+journey from Cleveland, Ohio, to Connecticut. When she used to tell
+me of the wonderful things that happened on this tedious journey,
+that took weeks and weeks to accomplish, I used to wonder if I should
+ever take so long a trip. I take pleasure in presenting the dearly
+loved grandmother of eighty-one and the little girl of ten.
+
+While my dear little grandmother dreaded the Indians, I did the
+treacherous Filipinos; while she dreaded the wolves, bears and wild
+beasts, I did the stab of the ever ready bolo and stealthy natives,
+and the prospect of fire; she endured the pangs of hunger, so did I;
+and I now feel that I am worthy to be her descendant and to sit by
+her side.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRIALS OF GETTING HOME.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN.
+
+
+The first stages of my return home were from Iloilo to Manila,
+and thence to Nagasaki, the chief port of Japan. Upon leaving
+Iloilo for Manila, my son accompanied me as far as Manila; he heard
+incidentally that he was to be made a staff officer; as I procured
+quick transportation as far as Nagasaki, I told him to return to
+his duties and I would get along some way. Upon reaching Nagasaki,
+the difficulties began. I went immediately to the various offices of
+steamship lines and found there was no passage of any grade to be
+had. Many were fleeing from the various ports to get away from the
+plague and all steamers were crowded because of the reduced rates
+to the Pan-American Fair. Thinking I might have a better chance from
+Yokohama, I took passage up there on the North German Lloyd line. I
+had a splendid state-room, fine service, the best of everything. I
+told the purser I should like to engage that same state-room back to
+Liverpool; he replied he could not take me, that I would not live to
+get there. I assured him that I was a good sailor, that I was very
+much emaciated with my long stay in the Philippines, that I would soon
+recover with his good food and the sea air; but he refused to take
+me. When I reached Yokohama, I immediately began to see if I could not
+secure sailing from there; day after day went by, it was the old story,
+everything taken. When the Gaelic was returning I told the captain that
+I would be willing to take even third cabin at first class rates, but
+even thus there were no accommodations. Within an hour of the ship's
+sailing, word was brought to me that two women had given up their
+cabin and that I might have it; it was two miles out to the ship,
+with no sampan--small boat--of any kind to get my baggage out, so I
+tearfully saw this ship sail away. I then decided to return to Nagasaki
+to try again from that port. The voyage back was by the Empress line of
+steamers flying between Vancouver and Yokohama. Upon reaching Nagasaki
+again I appealed to the quarter-master to secure transportation; he
+said I could not get anything at all. Officers whom I had met in the
+Philippines proposed to take me and my baggage on board without the
+necessary red tape, in fact to make me a stow-away, but I refused. I
+cabled my son in New York to see if I could get a favorable order
+from Washington. I cabled Governor Taft, but he was powerless in the
+great pressure of our returning troops. In the meantime, I was daily
+growing weaker from the excitement and worry of being unable to do
+anything at all. The housekeeper of the very well-kept Nagasaki hotel
+was especially kind. She gave me very good attention and even the
+Chinese boy who took care of my room and brought my meals realized
+the desperate condition I was in. One day, with the deepest kind of
+solicitude on his otherwise stolid but child-like and bland face,
+he said:--
+
+"Mrs., you no got husband?"
+
+"No."
+
+"You no got all same boys."
+
+"Yes, I have three nice boys."
+
+"Why no then you three boys not come and help poor sick mother go
+home to die?"
+
+Captain John E. Weber, of the Thirty-Eighth Volunteers returning
+home on transport Logan, insisted upon my taking his state room. The
+quarter-master, who had refused me so many times before, thought that
+he could not allow it, anything so out of the "general routine of
+business;" but Captain Weber said, "On no account will I leave you
+here, after all your faithful service in the Philippines to myself,
+other officers, and hundreds of boys." I had one of the best state
+rooms on the upper deck and received the most kindly attentions from
+many on board; the quarter-master had been a personal friend of my
+husband in other and happier days. On the homeward way, the ship
+took what is known as the northern course; she made no stop between
+Nagasaki and San Francisco. We went far enough north to see the coast
+of Alaska. We saw many whales and experienced much cold weather. In
+my low state of vitality I suffered from the cold, but not from sea
+sickness. I did not miss a single meal en route during the twenty-four
+sailing days of the ship. They were days of great pleasure. We had
+social games and singing, and religious services on Sunday. There were
+a great many sick soldiers in the ship's hospital; three dying during
+the voyage. On reaching San Francisco the ship was placed in quarantine
+the usual number of days, but there was no added delay as there were
+on board no cases of infectious disease. Mrs. General Funston was
+one of the passengers and was greeted most cordially by the friends
+and neighbors of this, her native state. Upon my declaring to the
+custom house officers that I had been two years in the Philippines
+and had nothing for sale they immediately passed my baggage without
+any trouble. My son in New York, to whom I had cabled from Nagasaki,
+had never received my message, so there was no one to meet me, but
+I was so thankful to be in dear, blessed America that it was joy
+enough. No, not enough until I reached my own beloved home. Had it
+been possible I would have kissed every blade of grass on its grounds,
+and every leaf on its trees.
+
+I am not ashamed to say that July 10th, the day of my home coming,
+I knelt down and kissed with unspeakable gratitude and love its dear
+earth and once more thanked God that His hand had led me--led me home.
+
+"Adious."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Ohio Woman in the Philippines, by 
+Emily Bronson Conger
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+
+Project Gutenberg's An Ohio Woman in the Philippines, by Emily Bronson Conger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: An Ohio Woman in the Philippines
+       Giving personal experiences and descriptions including
+              incidents of Honolulu, ports in Japan and China
+
+Author: Emily Bronson Conger
+
+Release Date: April 20, 2009 [EBook #28580]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OHIO WOMAN IN THE PHILIPPINES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net/
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="front">
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/front.jpg" alt="Original front." width="477" height="720"></div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><p></p>
+<div id="p000" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p000.jpg" alt="Scout." width="436" height="720"><p class="figureHead">Scout.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+</div>
+<div class="titlePage">
+<h1 class="docTitle">An Ohio Woman in the Philippines</h1>
+<h2 class="docTitle">Giving Personal Experiences and Descriptions Including Incidents of Honolulu, Ports in Japan and China</h2>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/logo.gif" alt="Publisher Logo." width="105" height="149"></div>
+<h2 class="byline"><span class="docAuthor">Mrs. Emily Bronson Conger</span></h2>
+<h2 class="docImprint">Published with illustrations</h2>
+</div><div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><p class="aligncenter">1904<br>
+Press of Richard H. Leighton<br>
+Akron, Ohio
+
+</p>
+</div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">To His Dear Memory.</h2>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="line"><i>To my beloved husband,</i>
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 4em; "><i><span class="smallcaps">Arthur Latham Conger,</span></i></p>
+<p class="line"><i>whose love was&#8212;Is my sweetest incentive;</i></p>
+<p class="line"><i>whose approval was&#8212;Is my richest reward.</i>
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 4em; "><i>Mizpah,</i>
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 8em; "><i><span class="smallcaps">Emily Bronson Conger.</span></i></p>
+</div><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb4" href="#pb4">4</a>]</span></div>
+<div id="toc" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Index</h2>
+<ol class="lsoff">
+<li>&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">PAGES</span>
+
+</li>
+<li><a href="#ch1">Out of the Golden Gate</a> <span class="tocPagenum">7&#8211;14</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch2">First Glimpses of Japan</a> <span class="tocPagenum">15&#8211;20</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch3">From Yokohama to Tokio</a> <span class="tocPagenum">21&#8211;25</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch4">Tokio</a> <span class="tocPagenum">26&#8211;33</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch5">Japan in General</a> <span class="tocPagenum">34&#8211;41</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch6">In Shanghai</a> <span class="tocPagenum">42&#8211;49</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch7">Hong Kong to Manila</a> <span class="tocPagenum">50&#8211;55</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch8">Iloilo and Jaro</a> <span class="tocPagenum">56&#8211;66</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch9">The Natives</a> <span class="tocPagenum">67&#8211;77</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch10">Wooings and Weddings</a> <span class="tocPagenum">78&#8211;82</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch11">My First Fourth in the Philippines</a> <span class="tocPagenum">83&#8211;88</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch12">Flowers, Fruits and Berries</a> <span class="tocPagenum">89&#8211;92</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch13">The Markets</a> <span class="tocPagenum">93&#8211;95</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch14">Philippine Agriculture</a> <span class="tocPagenum">96&#8211;100</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch15">Minerals</a> <span class="tocPagenum">101&#8211;103</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch16">Animals</a> <span class="tocPagenum">104&#8211;106</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch17">Amusements and Street Parades</a> <span class="tocPagenum">107&#8211;110</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch18">Festivals of the Church</a> <span class="tocPagenum">111&#8211;114</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch19">Osteopathy</a> <span class="tocPagenum">115&#8211;122</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch20">The McKinley Campaign</a> <span class="tocPagenum">123&#8211;125</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch21">Governor Taft at Jaro</a> <span class="tocPagenum">126&#8211;132</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch22">Shipwreck</a> <span class="tocPagenum">133&#8211;138</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch23">Filipino Domestic Life</a> <span class="tocPagenum">139&#8211;151</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch24">Islands Cebu and Romblom</a> <span class="tocPagenum">152&#8211;154</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch25">Literature</a> <span class="tocPagenum">155&#8211;159</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch26">The Gordon Scouts</a> <span class="tocPagenum">160&#8211;162</span></li>
+<li><a href="#ch27">Trials of Getting Home</a> <span class="tocPagenum">163&#8211;166</span></li>
+</ol><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb5" href="#pb5">5</a>]</span></div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Illustrations</h2>
+<ol class="lsoff">
+<li>&nbsp; <span class="tocPagenum">OP. PAGES</span>
+
+</li>
+<li><a href="#p000">Frontispiece&#8212;Scout</a></li>
+<li><a href="#p011">Fujiyama</a> <span class="tocPagenum">11</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p016">&#8220;Morgan City&#8221; as She was Sinking</a> <span class="tocPagenum">16</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p018">U. S. Troops from Wreck of &#8220;Morgan City&#8221;</a> <span class="tocPagenum">18</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p019">&#8220;Extended Limb of Tree&#8221;</a> <span class="tocPagenum">19</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p022">Great Gate Nikko</a> <span class="tocPagenum">22</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p030">Oura at Nagasaki</a> <span class="tocPagenum">30</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p032">Japanese Musicians</a> <span class="tocPagenum">32</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p033">Tori&iuml;</a> <span class="tocPagenum">33</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p037">Bansi</a> <span class="tocPagenum">37</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p050">Native Lady</a> <span class="tocPagenum">50</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p059">Town of Molo</a> <span class="tocPagenum">59</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p074">Presidente of Arevelo</a> <span class="tocPagenum">74</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p087">Surrender of Del Gardo</a> <span class="tocPagenum">87</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p088">Cathedral at Oton</a> <span class="tocPagenum">88</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p089">Interior of Cathedral</a> <span class="tocPagenum">89</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p103"><span class="corr" id="xd0e438" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span> Pond</a> <span class="tocPagenum">103</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p105"><span class="corr" id="xd0e446" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span></a> <span class="tocPagenum">105</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p126">Jaro at Time of Reception to Governor Taft</a> <span class="tocPagenum">126</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p138">Cemetery Crypts</a> <span class="tocPagenum">138</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p152">Facade Church Santa Ni&ntilde;a</a> <span class="tocPagenum">152</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p155-1">Native House, Cost One Dollar</a> <span class="tocPagenum">155</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p155-2"><span class="corr" id="xd0e477" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span> Cart</a> <span class="tocPagenum">155</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p159">The Advertiser</a> <span class="tocPagenum">159</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p160">Collier and Craig</a> <span class="tocPagenum">160</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p162">Emily Bronson and Mary Hickox</a> <span class="tocPagenum">162</span></li>
+<li><a href="#p167">Adious</a> <span class="tocPagenum">167</span></li>
+</ol><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb6" href="#pb6">6</a>]</span></div>
+<div class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><p class="aligncenter"><i>Copyrighted 1904</i>
+
+
+
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="body"><span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb7" href="#pb7">7</a>]</span><div id="ch1" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Out of the Golden Gate.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter One.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-w.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-w.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">W</span>ith the words ringing out over the clear waters of San Francisco Bay as the Steamer Morgan City pulled from the dock, &#8220;Now,
+mother, do be sure and take the very next boat and come to me,&#8221; I waved a yes as best I could, and, turning to my friends,
+said: &#8220;I am going to the Philippines; but do not, I beg of you, come to the dock to see me off.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>I did not then realize what it meant to start alone. I vowed to stay in my cabin during the entire trip, but, as we steamed
+out of the Golden Gate, there was an invitation to come forth, a prophesy of good, a promise to return, in the glory of the
+last rays of the setting sun as they traced upon the portals, &#8220;We shall be back in the morning.&#8221; And so I set out with something
+of cheer and hope, in spite of all the remonstrances, all the woeful prognostications of friends.
+
+</p>
+<p>If I could not find something useful to do for my boy and for other boys, I could accept the appointment of nurse from the
+Secretary of War, General Russell A. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb8" href="#pb8">8</a>]</span>Alger. But, if it proved practicable, I preferred to be under no obligations to render service, for my health was poor, my
+strength uncertain.
+
+</p>
+<p>The sail from San Francisco to Honolulu was almost without incident; few of the two thousand souls on board were ill at all.
+They divided up into various cliques and parties, such as are usually made up on ocean voyages. When we arrived at Honolulu,
+I did not expect to land, but I was fortunate in having friends of my son&#8217;s, Hon. J. Mott Smith, Secretary of State, and family
+meet me, and was taken to his more than delightful home and very generously, royally entertained.
+
+</p>
+<p>My impressions were, as we entered the bay, that the entire population of Honolulu was in the water. There seemed to be hundreds
+of little brown bodies afloat just like ducks.
+
+</p>
+<p>The passengers threw small coins into the bay, and those aquatic, human bodies would gather them before they could reach the
+bottom.
+
+</p>
+<p>The city seemed like one vast tropical garden, with its waving palms, gorgeous foliage and flowers, gaily colored birds and
+spicy odors, but mingled with the floral fragrance were other odors that betokened a foreign population.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was my first experience in seeing all sorts and conditions of people mingling together&#8212;Chinese, Japanese, Hawaiians, English,
+Germans and Americans. Then the manner of dress seemed so strange, especially for the women; they wore a garment they call
+halicoes like the Mother Hubbard that we so much deride.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb9" href="#pb9">9</a>]</span></p>
+<p>We visited the palace of the late Queen, Liliuokalani (le-le-uo-ka-l&aacute;-ne), now turned into a government building; saw the
+old throne room and the various articles that added to the pomp and vanity of her reign. I heard only favorable comments on
+her career. All seemed to think that she had been a wise and considerate ruler.
+
+</p>
+<p>I noticed many churches of various denominations, but was particularly interested in my own, the Protestant Episcopal. The
+Rt. Rev. H. C. Potter, Bishop of New York, and his secretary, Rev. Percy S. Grant, were passengers on board our ship, the
+G&aelig;lic. The special purpose of the Bishop&#8217;s visit to Honolulu was to effect the transfer of the Episcopal churches of the Sandwich
+Islands to the jurisdiction of our House of Bishops. He expressed himself as delighted with his cordial reception and with
+the ready, Christian-like manner with which the Supervision yielded. The success of his delicate mission was due, on Bishop
+Potter&#8217;s side, to the wise and fraternal presentation of his cause and to his charming wit and courtesy.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was still early morning when my friends with a pair of fine horses drove from the shore level by winding roads up through
+the foot hills, ever up and up above the luxuriant groves of banana and cocoanut, the view widening, and the masses of rich
+foliage growing denser below or broadening into the wide sugar plantations that surrounded palatial homes. We returned for
+luncheon and I noted that not one house had a chimney, that every house was protected with mosquito netting; porches, doors,
+windows, beds, all carefully veiled.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb10" href="#pb10">10</a>]</span></p>
+<p>After dinner we again set forth with a pair of fresh horses and drove for miles along the coast, visiting some of the beautiful
+places that we had already seen from the heights. The beauty of gardens, vines, flowers, grasses, hills, shores, ocean was
+bewildering. In the city itself are a thousand objects of interest, of which not the least is the market.
+
+</p>
+<p>I had never seen tropical fish before, and was somewhat surprised by the curious shapes and varied colors of the hundreds
+and thousands of fish exposed for sale. I do not think there was a single color scheme that was not carried out in that harvest
+of the sea. Fruits and flowers were there, too, in heaps and masses at prices absurdly low. With the chatter of the natives
+and the shrill cry of the fishermen as they came in with their heavily laden boats, the scene was one never to be forgotten.
+
+</p>
+<p>The natives have a time honored custom of crowning their friends at leave-taking with &#8220;Lais&#8221; (lays). These garlands are made
+by threading flowers on a string about a yard and a half long, usually each string is of one kind of flower, and, as they
+throw these &#8220;Lais&#8221; over the head of the friend about to leave, they say or sing, &#8220;Al-o-ah-o, until we meet again.&#8221;
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/music.gif" alt="AL O AH O. AL O. AH O UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN AL O. AH O. AL O. AH O. UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN." width="720" height="172"><p class="figureHead">AL O AH O. AL O. AH O UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN AL O. AH O. AL O. AH O. UNTIL WE MEET AGAIN.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb11" href="#pb11">11</a>]</span></p>
+<p>This musical score is the greeting of good-day, good-morning, or good-bye; always the greeting of friends. They chose for
+me strings of purple and gold flowers. The golden ones were a sort of wax begonia and the purple were almost like a petunia.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p011" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p011.jpg" alt="Fujiyama from Tagonoura, Suruga." width="720" height="572"><p class="figureHead">Fujiyama from Tagonoura, Suruga.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>Instead of sitting on the deck of the steamer by myself, as I had purposed, I had one of the most delightful days I have ever
+spent in my life. It was with deep regret, when the boat pulled from the wharf, that I answered with the newly acquired song,
+&#8220;Al-o-ah-o,&#8221; the kindly voices wafted from the shore. We had taken on board many new passengers, and were now very closely
+packed in, so much so, that to our great disgust one family, a Chinaman, his wife, children and servants, fourteen in number,
+occupied one small stateroom. It is easy to believe that that room was full and overflowing into the narrow hallways. Though
+he had eight or nine children and one or two wives, he said he was going to China to get himself one more wife, because the
+one that he had with him did bite the children so much and so badly.
+
+</p>
+<p>I had never before seen so many various kinds of Chinese people, and it was a curious study each day to watch them at their
+various duties in caring for one another and preparing their food. Strange concoctions were some of those meals. They all
+ate with chop-sticks, and I never did find out how they carried to the mouth the amount of food consumed each day. One day
+we heard a great commotion down in their quarters, and, of course, all rushed to see what was the matter. We were passing
+the spot where, years before, a ship had sunk with a great <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb12" href="#pb12">12</a>]</span>number of Chinese on board. Our Chinese were sending off fire crackers and burning thousands and thousands of small papers
+of various colors and shapes, with six to ten holes in each paper. Some were burning incense and praying before their Joss.
+The interpreter told us that every time a steamer passes they go through these rites to keep the Devils away from the souls
+of the shipwrecked Chinese. Before any Evil Spirit can reach a soul it must go through each one of the holes in the burnt
+papers that were cast overboard.
+
+</p>
+<p>Bishop Potter asked us one day if we thought those Chinese people were our brethren. I am sure it took some Christian charity
+to decide that they were. One of these &#8220;brethren&#8221; was a Salvation Army man, who was married to an American woman. They were
+living in heathen quarters between decks and each day labored to teach the way of salvation. Many of these poor people died
+during the passage; the bodies were placed in boxes to be carried to their native land. A large per cent. of the whole number
+seemed to be going home to die, so emaciated and feeble were they.
+
+</p>
+<p>There was fitted up in one of the bunks in the hold of the vessel a Joss house. I did not dare to see it, but I learned that
+there was the usual pyramid of shelves containing amongst them the gods of War and Peace. Before each god is a small vessel
+of sand to hold the Joss sticks, a perfumed taper to be burned in honor of the favorite deity, and there is often added a
+cup of tea and a portion of rice. There are no priests or preachers, but some man buys the privilege of running the Joss house,
+and charges <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb13" href="#pb13">13</a>]</span>each worshipper a small fee. The devotee falls on his knees, lays his forehead to the floor, and invocates the god of his
+choice. Soothsayers are always in attendance, and for a small sum one may know his future.
+
+</p>
+<p>As between Chinese and Japanese, for fidelity, honesty, veracity and uprightness, my impression is largely in favor of the
+Chinese as a race. Captain Finch told me that on this ship, the G&aelig;lic, over which he had had charge for the past fifteen years,
+he had had, as head waiter, the same Chinaman that he started out with, and in all this period of service he never had occasion
+to question the integrity of this most faithful servant, who in the entire time had not been absent from the ship more than
+three days in all. On these rare occasions, this capable man had left for his substitute such minute instructions on bits
+of rice paper, placed where needed, that the work was carried on smoothly without need of supervision or other direction.
+The same holds true of Chinese servants on our Pacific coast. I was much pleased with the attention they gave each and every
+one of us during the entire trip; it was better service than any that I have ever seen on Atlantic ships. In the whole month&#8217;s
+trip, I never heard one word of complaint.
+
+</p>
+<p>Being a good sailor, I can hardly judge as to the &#8220;Peacefulness of the Pacific.&#8221; Many were quite ill when to me there was
+only a gentle roll of the steamer, soothing to the nerves, and the splash of the waves only lulled me to sleep.
+
+</p>
+<p>By day there were many entertainments, such as races, walking matches, quoits, and like games. Commander <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb14" href="#pb14">14</a>]</span>J. V. Bleecker, en route to take charge of the Mercedes reclaimed in Manila Bay, was a masterly artist in sleight-of-hand
+performances, and contributed much to the fun.
+
+</p>
+<p>Often the evenings were enlivened with concerts and readings. Col. J. H. Bird, of New York, gave memorized passages from Shakespeare&#8212;scenes,
+acts, and even entire plays in perfect voice and character. We thought we were most fortunate in the opportunity to enjoy
+his clever rendition of several comedies.
+
+</p>
+<p>But to one passenger, at least, the best and sweetest ministrations of all were the religious services. Bishop Potter took
+part in all wholesome amusements. He was often the director; he was the delightful chairman at all our musical and literary
+sessions; but it was in sacred service that his noble spiritual powers found expression. One calm, radiant Sunday morning
+he spoke with noblest eloquence on these words of the one hundred thirty-ninth psalm:&#8212;
+
+
+</p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="line">Whither shall I go from thy spirit? or whither shall I flee from thy presence?</p>
+<p class="line">If I ascend up into heaven thou art there; if I make my bed in hell, behold thou art there!</p>
+<p class="line">If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost part of the sea;</p>
+<p class="line">Even there shall thy hand lead me and thy right hand shall hold me.</p>
+</div>
+<p>Fifteen months later, when wrecked on the coast of Panay, his clear voice again sounded in my soul with the assurance, &#8220;Even
+there shall thy hand lead me, and thy right hand shall hold me.&#8221;
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb15" href="#pb15">15</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch2" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">First Glimpses of Japan.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Two.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-b.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-b.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">B</span>ut for all our devices to while away the time, the thirty-two days of ship life was to all of us the longest month of our
+lives. The Pacific, as Mr. Peggotty says, is &#8220;a mort of water,&#8221; a vast, desolate waste of waters from Honolulu to our first
+landing place, Yokohama. We had a wonderful glimpse of the sacred mountain, Fujiyama. The snow-capped peak stood transfigured
+as it caught full the rays of the descending sun. Cone-shaped, triangular, perhaps; what was it like, this gleaming silhouette
+against the deep blue sky? Was it a mighty altar, symbol of earth&#8217;s need of sacrifice, or emblem of the unity of the ever
+present triune God? &#8217;Tis little wonder that it is, to the people over whom it stands guard, an object of reverence, of worship;
+that pilgrimages are made to its sacred heights; that yearly many lives are sacrificed in the toilsome ascent on bare feet,
+on bare knees.
+
+</p>
+<p>As we went through Japan&#8217;s inland sea, one of the most beautiful bodies of water on the globe, it seemed, at times, as if
+we might reach out and shake hands with the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb16" href="#pb16">16</a>]</span>natives in their curious houses, we passed so near to them&#8212;the odd little houses, unlike any we had ever seen; while about
+us was every known kind of Japanese craft with curious sails of every conceivable kind and shape. On the overloaded boats
+the curious little Japanese sailors, oddly dressed in thick padded coverings and bowl caps on their heads, with nothing on
+limbs and feet save small straw sandals, strapped to the feet between great and second toes, looked top-heavy.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p016" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p016.jpg" alt="&#8220;Morgan City&#8221; as She was Sinking." width="720" height="515"><p class="figureHead">&#8220;Morgan City&#8221; as She was Sinking.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>While I watched all these new things, I was eagerly on the lookout for the wreck of the Morgan City, on which my son had sailed.
+Nothing was visible of the ill-fated ship but a single spar, one long finger of warning held aloft. As we passed on, watching
+the busy boats plying from shore to shore, the Chinese on the boat chattered and jabbered faster with each other than before;
+we fancied they were making fun of their little Japanese brethren. We arrived at Yokohama about 9 P. M., and were immediately
+placed in quarantine. The next morning a dozen Japanese quarantine officers appeared, covered all over with straps and bands
+of gold lace. They looked so insignificant and put on such an air of austere authority that one did not know whether to laugh
+or cry at their pomposity. They checked us off by squads and dozens, and by 12 o&#8217;clock we were ready to land. It was our first
+touch of Japanese soil, and we were about to take our first ride in a Jinricksha. It was very beautiful to hear as a greeting,
+&#8220;Ohio.&#8221; As I had been told by a Japanese student, whom I met in Cambridge, Mass., that this is the national greeting, I was
+not unprepared as was <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb17" href="#pb17">17</a>]</span>a fellow passenger, who said, &#8220;Oh, he must know where you came from.&#8221; My height and my white hair seemed to make me an object
+of interest. It was such a novel thing to be hauled around in those two-wheeled carts, one man pulling at the thills and another
+pushing at the rear. It is a fine experience, and one which we all enjoyed. The whole outfit is hired by the day for about
+a dollar, the price depending upon the amount of Pigeon English the leader can speak. The first thing they say to you is,
+&#8220;Me can speak English.&#8221; We found the hotel admirably kept.
+
+</p>
+<p>The blind Japanese are an interesting class. They are trained at government cost to give massage treatment, and no others
+are allowed to practice. These blind nurses, male and female, go about the streets in care of an attendant, playing a plaintive
+tune on a little reed whistle in offer of their services. The treatment is delightful, the sensation is wholly new, and is
+most restful and invigorating after a long voyage.
+
+</p>
+<p>No wonder that so many of the Japs are weak-eyed or totally blind. The children are exposed to the intense rays of the sun,
+as, suspended on their mothers&#8217; backs, they dangle in their straps with their little heads wabbling helplessly. From friends
+who have kept house many years, I learned that the service rendered by the Japanese is, as a whole, unsatisfactory. Their
+cooking is entirely different from ours, and they do not willingly adapt themselves to our mode of living.
+
+</p>
+<p>It is not my purpose to tell much about Japan and China; they were only stages on the way to the Philippines; <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb18" href="#pb18">18</a>]</span>and yet they were a preparation for the new, strange life there. But such is the charm of Japan that one&#8217;s memories cling
+to its holiday scenes and life.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p018" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p018.jpg" alt="U. S. Troops from Wreck of &#8220;Morgan City.&#8221;" width="720" height="516"><p class="figureHead">U. S. Troops from Wreck of &#8220;Morgan City.&#8221;</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The Japanese are really wise in beginning their New Year in spring. The first of April, cherry blossom day, is made the great
+day of all the year. There are millions of cherry blossoms on trees larger than many of our largest apple trees&#8212;wonderful
+double-flowering, beautiful trees, just one mass of pink blossoms as far as the eye can reach. They do so reverence these
+blossoms that they rarely pluck them, but carry about bunches made of paper or silk tissue that rival the natural ones in
+perfection. No person is so poor that he cannot, on this great festal day, have his house, shop, place of amusement or, at
+least, umbrella bedecked with these delicate blossoms. It is almost beyond belief the extent to which they carry this festal
+day, given up entirely to greetings and parades.
+
+</p>
+<p>Then the wonderful <span class="corr" id="xd0e638" title="Source: wistaria">wisteria</span>! In its blossoming time the flower clusters hang from long sprays like rich fringe. From the hill-tops the view down on the
+tiny cottages, wreathed with the luxuriant vines, is most beautiful. A single cluster is often three feet long. They make
+cups, bowls and plates from the trunk of the vine.
+
+</p>
+<p>There are marsh fields of the white lotus. The ridges of the heavily thatched roofs are set with iris plants and their many
+hued blossoms make a garden in the air.
+
+</p>
+<p>One should visit Japan from April to November. In the cultivation of the chrysanthemum they lay more stress on the small varieties
+than we do; they prefer number to size. The autumn foliage is beautiful beyond belief,&#8212;<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb19" href="#pb19">19</a>]</span>vision alone can do it justice. The hillsides, the mountain slopes are thickly set with the miniature maples and evergreens;
+the clear, brilliant hues of the one, heightened by contrast with the dark green of the other, are strikingly vivid.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p019" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p019.jpg" alt="On Left of Picture is Seen a Tree with its Extended Limb." width="720" height="564"><p class="figureHead">On Left of Picture is Seen a Tree with its Extended Limb.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The trees and shrubs are surely more gnarled and knotted than they are in Christian countries. They are trained in curious
+fashion. One limb of a tree is coaxed and stretched to see how far it can be extended from the body of the tree. At first
+I could not believe that these limbs belonged to a stump so far away. The Japanese pride themselves on their shrubs and flowers.
+Nothing gave me more pleasure than seeing all this cultivation of the gardens, no matter how small, around each home. I did
+not see a single bit of wood in Japan like anything that we have. The veining, color, texture and adaptiveness to polish suggest
+marble of every variety.
+
+</p>
+<p>At Yokohama I engaged a guide, Takenouchi. I found him to be a faithful attendant; his devotion and energy in satisfying my
+various requests was unwearied; I shall ever feel grateful to him. He would make me understand by little nods, winks, and
+sly pushes that I was not to purchase, and he would afterwards say: &#8220;I will go back and get the articles for you for just
+one-half the price the shop-keeper told you.&#8221; They hope to sell to Americans for a better price than they ever get from each
+other. We went to every kind of shop; they are amusingly different from ours. Few things are displayed in the windows or on
+the shelves, but they are done up in fine parcels and tucked away out of sight. It is the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb20" href="#pb20">20</a>]</span>rule to take two or three days to sit at various counters before you attempt to purchase. The seller would much rather keep
+his best things; he tries in every way to induce you to take the cheaper ones, or ones of inferior quality. My guide was in
+every way capable and efficient in the selection of fine embroideries, porcelain, bronzes, and pictures.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o020.gif" alt="Ornament." width="107" height="187"></div><p>
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb21" href="#pb21">21</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch3" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">From Yokohama to Tokio.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Three.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-f.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-f.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">F</span>rom Yokohama to Tokio, a two hours&#8217; ride on the steam cars, one is constantly gazing at the wonderful country and its perfect
+cultivation. There are no vast prairies of wheat or corn, but the land is divided into little patches, and each patch is so
+lovingly tended that it looks not like a farm but like a garden; while each garden is laid out with as much care as if it
+were some part of Central Park, thick with little lakes, artistic bridges and little waterfalls with little mills, all too
+diminutive, seemingly, to be of any use, and yet all occupied and all busy turning out their various wares.
+
+</p>
+<p>I understand they even hoe the drilled-in wheat. The rice, the staple of the country, is so cared for and tended that it sells
+for much more than other rice. Imported rice is the common food.
+
+</p>
+<p>As our guide said, we must go to the &#8220;Proud of Japan,&#8221; Nikko, to see the most wonderful temples of their kind in all the world.
+We took the cars at Yokohama for Nikko. It was an all day trip with five changes of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb22" href="#pb22">22</a>]</span>cars, but every step of the way was through one vast curious workshop of both divine and human hands. The railway fare is
+only two cents a mile, first class, and half that, second class; we left the choice to our guide. A good guide is almost <span class="corr" id="xd0e677" title="Source: indispensible">indispensable</span>. Our faithful Takenouchi was proficient in everything; he was valet, courier, guide, instructor, purchasing agent, and maid.
+I never knew a person so efficient in every way; he could be attentively absent; he never intruded himself upon us in any
+way. It is impossible to describe the wonderful temples! They must be seen to be appreciated and, even then, one must needs
+have a microscope, so minute are the carvings in ivory, bronze, and porcelain, inlaid and wrought with gold and silver; many
+of them, ancient though they are, are still marvels of delicate lines of the patient labor of the past centuries. One of the
+gods, which was in a darkened temple, had a hundred heads, and the only way one could see it was by a little lantern hung
+on the end of a string and pulled up slowly. But even in that dim light we stood awestruck before that miracle wrought in
+stone. No one is allowed to walk near this god with shoes upon his feet. Unbelievers though we were, we were awed by the colossal
+grandeur of this great idol. The God of Wind, the God of War, the God of Peace, &#8220;the hundred Gods&#8221; all in line, were, when
+counted one way, one hundred, but in the reverse order only ninety-nine. To pray to the One Hundred, it is necessary only
+to buy a few characters of Japanese writings and paste them upon any one of the gods, trusting your cause to him and the Nikko.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p022" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p022.jpg" alt="Y&#333;meimon Great Gate, Nikk&#333;." width="720" height="565"><p class="figureHead">Y&#333;meimon Great Gate, Nikk&#333;.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb23" href="#pb23">23</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The bells, the first tones of which came down through that magnificent forest of huge trees and echoing from the rocks of
+that wonderful ravine, will ever sound in my ears as an instant call to a reverential mood. The solemn music was unlike any
+tone I had ever heard before; now it seemed the peal of the trumpet of the Last Day, now a call to some festival of angels
+and arch-angels. As the first thrills of emotion passed, it seemed a benediction of peace and rest; the evening&#8217;s Gloria to
+the day&#8217;s Jubilate, for it was the sunset hour.
+
+</p>
+<p>The next morning we took our guide and three natives to each foreigner to assist in getting us up the Nikko mountain. It took
+from 7 o&#8217;clock in the morning until 2 in the afternoon to reach the summit. Every mountain peak was covered with red, white,
+and pink azaleas. Our pathway was over a carpet of the petals of these exquisite blooms. We used every glowing adjective that
+we could command at every turn of these delightful hills, and at last joined in hymns of praise. Each alluring summit, as
+soon as reached, dwindled to a speck in comparison with the grandeur that was still further awaiting us. We stopped often
+to let the men rest, who had to work so hard pulling our little carts up these steep ascents.
+
+</p>
+<p>There is a great waterfall in the hills, some two hundred fifty feet high, but none of us dared to make the point that gives
+an entire view of it. All we could see added proof of our paucity of words to express our surprise that the reputed great
+wonders of this &#8220;Proud&#8221; were really true. On returning we were often obliged to alight and walk over fallen boulders, this
+being the first trip after the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb24" href="#pb24">24</a>]</span>extreme winter snows. At one place, being &#8220;overtoppled&#8221; by the weight of my clothes and the cramped position that I had been
+in, I lost my balance and fell down, it seemed to me to be about a mile and a half. In a moment there were at least fifty
+pairs of hands to assist me up the mountain side. A dislocated wrist, a battered nose, and a blackened eye was the inventory
+of damages. Such a chattering as those natives did set up, while I, with a bit of medical skill, which I am modestly proud
+of, attended to my needs. The day had been so full of delights that I did not mind being battered and bruised, nor did I lose
+appetite for the very fine dinner we had at the Nikko Hotel, so daintily served in the most attractive fashion by the little
+Japanese maidens in their dainty costumes. In the evening the hotel became a lively bazaar. All sorts of wares were spread
+out before us&#8212;minute bridges modeled after the famous Emperor&#8217;s Bridge at this place. No <span class="corr" id="xd0e694" title="Source: preson">person</span> is allowed to walk upon it but His Majesty. The story goes that General Grant was invited to cross over upon it, but declined
+with thanks. In returning we drove through that most wonderful grove of huge trees, the Cryptomaria, a kind of cedar, which
+rise to a height of one hundred fifty or two hundred feet. I may not have the number of feet exactly, but they are so tremendous
+that one wonders if they can really be living Cryptomaria. Indeed, much of all Japan seems artificial. Every tiny little house
+has its own little garden, perhaps but two feet square, yet artistically laid out with bridges, temples, miniature trees two
+or three inches high, flowers in pots, walks, and little cascades, all too toy-like and tiny for <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb25" href="#pb25">25</a>]</span>any but children. Nearly all of the houses have their little temples, and the children have their special gods; little boys
+have their gods of learning and their gods of war. The prayer to the god of learning is about like this: &#8220;Oh, Mr. God of Learning,
+won&#8217;t you please help me to learn my lessons, won&#8217;t you please help me to pass my examinations, and Oh, Mr. God of learning,
+if you will only help me pass my examination and to study my lessons and get them well, when I get through I will bring you
+a dish of pickles.&#8221; This prayer was given me by a Japanese student who studied in our country.
+
+</p>
+<p>We found that nearly every banking house and hotel had for their expert accountants and rapid calculators, Chinamen. I finally
+asked one of the proprietors how it happened and he said it was because they could trust the Chinese to be more faithful and
+accurate. On the other hand, when we got to Hong Kong we found that the policemen were of India, because the Chinese could
+not be trusted to do justice to their fellow men. There was such a difference between the service of the <span class="corr" id="xd0e701" title="Source: cooly">coolie</span> Jinricksha men in Hong Kong and in Japan. They did not seem so weak or travel-weary, and yet they had often to take people
+on much harder journeys.
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb26" href="#pb26">26</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch4" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Tokio.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Four.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>okio, the <span class="corr" id="xd0e712" title="Source: capitol">capital</span>, with a population almost equal to New York, looks like a caricature, a miniature cast such as one sees of the Holy Land.
+The earliest mention of the use of checks in Europe is in the latter part of the seventeenth century. The Japanese had already
+been using them for forty years; they had also introduced the strengthening features of requiring them to be certified.
+
+</p>
+<p>Visiting the Rice Exchange in Tokio during a year of famine, when subject to wide and sudden fluctuations, it was easy to
+imagine one&#8217;s self in the New York Stock Exchange, on the occasion of a flurry in Wall Street. There was the same seeming
+madness intensified by the guttural sounds of the language, and the brokers were not a whit more intelligible than a like
+mob in any other city. I said to the interpreter: &#8220;You Japanese have succeeded in copying every feature of the New York Stock
+Exchange.&#8221; &#8220;New York!&#8221; he exclaimed, &#8220;why, this very thing has been going on here in Japan these two hundred years!&#8221;
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb27" href="#pb27">27</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The palace is a long, low building, unattractive in itself, but its gardens with every beautiful device of native art, fountains,
+bridges, shrines, fantastically trimmed trees, flowers, winding ways, are amazingly artistic.
+
+</p>
+<p>The Lord High Chamberlain has ordered every civil officer to appear at court ceremonies in European dress. It seems such a
+pity, for they are not of the style or carriage to adopt court costumes. One government official wanted to be so very correct
+that he wore his dress suit to business. So anxious are they to be thought civilized. There is nothing that hurts a gentleman&#8217;s
+feelings in Japan more than to hear one say, &#8220;They have such a beautiful country and when they are converted from heathenism
+it will be ideal.&#8221; There is a strong Episcopal church and college in the capital.
+
+</p>
+<p>I am not at all prepared to judge the Japanese creeds or modes of worship. But one may infer something of what people are
+taught, from their character and conduct. The children honor their parents; the women seem obedient to their husbands and
+masters; and the men are imbued with the love of country.
+
+</p>
+<p>The prevailing religion of Japan is Shintoism, and through the kindness of Rev. B. T. Sakai, I will give a bit of his experience.
+He wished to acquire a better knowledge of English and found that Trinity College in Tokio could give him the best instruction.
+He went to this institution, pledged that he would not, on any account, become a Christian, and assisted in the persecution
+of his fellow students, who were becoming convinced of the truth of Christianity. During the extreme cold <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb28" href="#pb28">28</a>]</span>weather, the institution was badly in need of warmer rooms. Several of the students met and decided to make an appeal to the
+Bishop. They went to him, three Japanese boys who were converted and two who were not, and told him in very plain language
+that they would not endure the cold in their rooms any longer. The Bishop listened attentively and finally said, &#8220;Well, young
+men, you are perfectly right, and I have a very good solution of the difficulty. I am an old man and cannot live many years,
+so I will give you my warm room and I will take the cold one.&#8221; He told me that was something new to him, that a person of
+his years and standing should be willing to make so great a sacrifice. He said that he could not keep the tears from running
+down his cheeks, and on no account would any of these boys accept the Bishop&#8217;s proposal; he gave them a new idea of Christian
+charity.
+
+
+</p>
+<div class="div2">
+<h3 class="normal">KOBE AND NAGASAKI.</h3>
+<p>From Nikko we returned to Yokohama and thence by steamer to Kobe. The U. S. Consul, General M. Lyon, and his wife met me.
+They gave me the first particulars of the wreck of the Morgan City. Nothing could exceed their kindness during the two days
+of my stay there. Their familiarity with the language, the people, and the shops was a great help to me. And when we returned
+home, I found the little son of my hosts the most interesting object of all. Born in Kobe, cared for by a native nurse, an
+ama, as they are called, he spoke no English, only Japanese. He was a beautiful child, fair, golden haired, blue eyed, and
+sweet of temper.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb29" href="#pb29">29</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The garden of the U.S. Consul at Kobe was a marvel of beauty. There was a rumor that the United States government might purchase
+it. I hope so, because it is in a part of the city which has a commanding view of the bay, and it is such a joy to see our
+beautiful flag floating from the staff in front of the consulate. No one appreciates the meaning of &#8220;Our Flag&#8221; until one sees
+it in foreign countries.
+
+</p>
+<p>I visited the famous <span class="corr" id="xd0e738" title="Source: Buddist">Buddhist</span> Temple of Kobe; it was placed in a garden and there were hundreds of poor, sore eyed, sickly, dirty Japanese people around,
+and it gave one the impression that this temple might have been used for other purposes than worship. In all the temples that
+I visited, I never saw, except in one, anything that approached worship, and that was in the Sacred Temple of the White Horse,
+Nagasaki, and an American who had lived there for eight years said that I must be mistaken for she had never heard of any
+such doings as I saw. There seemed to be about a dozen priests who were carrying hot water which they dipped out of a boiling
+caldron and were sprinkling it about in the temple with curious intonations and chantings. They ran back and forth, swishing
+the water about in a very promiscuous manner. I stood at a respectful distance fearing to get some of the hot fluid on myself.
+Meanwhile the White Horse stood in the yard well groomed and cared for, little knowing what they were doing in his honor.
+I could not hear of a single place where their poor or sick and afflicted were cared for. They may have asylums and hospitals,
+but I never heard of any.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb30" href="#pb30">30</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Nagasaki is beautiful for situation. A river-like inlet, reminding one of the Hudson river, leads into the broad lake-like
+harbor. Eight or ten of our transports lay at anchor and still there was abundant room for the liners and for the little craft
+plying between this and the small ports.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p030" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p030.jpg" alt="Oura at Nagasaki." width="720" height="556"><p class="figureHead">Oura at Nagasaki.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The dock is famous; all our ships in the east put in here for repairs if possible.
+
+</p>
+<p>The high hills circle about the town and bay; they are highly cultivated and dotted with the peculiar Japanese house. The
+native house of but one story, is not more than twelve or fourteen feet square, and is divided into rooms only by paper screens
+that may be removed at will. The people live out of doors as much as possible, or in their arbors. In cold weather a charcoal
+brazier is set in the center of the house. At night each Jap rolls himself in a thickly padded mat and lies on the floor with
+his feet to this &#8220;stove.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>A party was made up to visit the Concert Hall of the celebrated Geisha girls. General and Mrs. Greenleaf and many officers
+and their wives from the transports were of the number. They kindly invited me to join them. A sum total of about fifteen
+dollars is charged for the entertainment; each one bears his share of the cost. It was a rainy evening, rickshaws were in
+order. About thirty drew up before the Nagasaki Hotel. It was a sight! the funny little carriages, man before to pull, man
+behind to push, gaily colored lantern fore and aft and amused Americans in the middle, laughing, singing, and enjoying the
+fun, a strange contrast to the stolid native.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb31" href="#pb31">31</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The long line of carriages wound in and out like a snake with shining scales. The night was so dark that little was to be
+seen except the firefly lights and the bare tawny legs of the rickshaw men.
+
+</p>
+<p>It has been said that the Japanese are the soul of music. I am sure that no ears are cultivated to endure it. As we entered
+the rooms we were obliged to remove our shoes and put on sandals. Instead of sitting down on chairs we took any position we
+could on the floor mats that were placed at our disposal. At the first sound from the throat of a famous singer in a staccato
+&#8220;E-E-E-E,&#8221; we all sprang to our feet thinking she was possibly going into some sort of a fit. With a twang on the strings
+of the flattened out little instrument, we subsided, concluding that the concert had begun. Then when the others joined in,
+the mingled sounds were not unlike the wail of cats on the back fence. The girls themselves looked pretty, in kneeling posture,
+lips painted bright red, hair prettily braided and adorned with artificial flowers or bits of jewelry. If they had been quiet
+they would have looked like beautiful Japanese dolls seated on the floor. After several &#8220;catterwaulings&#8221; by the choir, came
+the dances. It was all a series of physical culture movements; the music was rendered in most perfect rhythm by two of the
+girls, it was the poetry of motion. They would take pieces of silk and make little bouquets, whirlwinds, and divers things;
+the most beautiful of all was a cascade of water. It was hard for us to believe it was not actually a waterfall. It was made
+of unfolding yards of white silk of the most sheer and gauzy kind. From a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb32" href="#pb32">32</a>]</span>thin package six inches square, there shimmered out a thousand yards&#8212;a veritable cascade of gleaming water. We were treated
+to refreshments, impossible cakes and tea. We were thankful that we sat near an open window that we might throw the cake over
+our shoulder, trusting some forlorn little Japanese who liked it might get it.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p032" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p032.jpg" alt="Japanese Musicians." width="720" height="556"><p class="figureHead">Japanese Musicians.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The tea is finely powdered dust; the tea maker is supposed to measure exactly the capacity of the drinker and to take enough
+of this finely powdered tea to make three and one-half mouthfuls exactly. They do it by taking a rare bit of porcelain and
+holding it in their hands, turn it about and talk learnedly of the various, wonderful arts of pottery and how many years they
+have had this certain piece of fine porcelain, turning it about in the meantime in their hands as they comment on its beauties
+and qualities, and then take three large swallows of the tea and one small sip and then go on talking about the wonders of
+the cup. These cups are anything but what we should call tea cups. They are really large bowls, sometimes with a cover but
+more often without. But it is refreshing to drink their tea even if one cannot do it &agrave; la Jap. Everywhere in Japan you are
+asked to take a cup of tea, in the steam cars, in the shops and by the wayside. A Japanese told me that he could tell whether
+a person was educated or not by the manner in which he drank tea. They take lessons in tea drinking as we do in any accomplishment
+we wish to acquire. One friend could not resist buying tea pots and pretty cups; she had a grand collection after one day
+of sight-seeing.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb33" href="#pb33">33</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Their potteries are not like ours, huge factories, but household things. Here and there in a family is an artist who can make
+a bit of porcelain, a few cups, plates, or saucers stamped with his own individual mark. The quality varies, of course, with
+the skill of the maker, but the poorest work is beautiful; and one develops an insatiate greed to possess this and this and
+just one more.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p033" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p033.jpg" alt="Tori&iuml;." width="720" height="559"><p class="figureHead">Tori&iuml;.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The ancient Imari, Satsuma, and the old bits of pottery that have been kept in the older families for centuries are, to my
+mind, the most wonderful works of art of the kind in the world; they look with pride on the articles of virtu as almost sacred.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o151.gif" alt="Ornament." width="202" height="105"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb34" href="#pb34">34</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div id="ch5" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Japan in General.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Five.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-o.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-o.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">O</span>ne of the many objects to attract the eyes of one traveling in Japan is the &#8220;Torii&#8221; or sacred gateway. It is said that once
+a bird from Heaven flew down and alighted upon the earth. Here the first gate was erected, the gate of heaven. Its construction,
+whether it be of wood, stone or metal, is ever the same, two columns slightly inclined toward each other, supporting a horizontal
+cross-beam with widely projecting ends, and beneath this another beam with its ends fitted into the columns; the whole forming
+a singularly graceful construction, illustrating how the Japanese produce the best effects with the simplest means. This sacred
+entrance arches the path wherever any Japanese foot approaches hallowed ground. It is, however, over all consecrated portals
+and lands, and does not necessarily indicate the nearness of a temple. You find it everywhere in your wanderings, over hill
+and dale, at the entrance to mountain paths, or deep in the recesses of the woods, sometimes it is on the edge of an oasis
+of shrubbery, or in the very heart of the rice fields, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb35" href="#pb35">35</a>]</span>sometimes in front of cliff or cavern. Pass under its arch and follow the path it indicates and you will reach&#8212;it may be by
+a few steps, it may be by a long walk or climb&#8212;a temple sometimes, but more often a simple shrine; and if in this shrine you
+find nothing; close by you will see some reason for its being there. There will be a twisted pine or grove of stately trees,
+to consecrate the place and perpetuate some memory. Perhaps the way leads to the view of some magnificent panorama of land
+or sea spread out before the gazer who, with adoring heart, worships the beauty or the grandeur of his country. Wherever there
+is a Torii, there is a shrine of his religion; and wherever there is an outlook over the land of his birth, there is a temple
+of his faith.
+
+</p>
+<p>As we left Nagasaki for Shanghai, I noticed on this occasion, as on four later visits, the great activity of this port as
+a coaling station. It has an immense trade. Men, women, and children form in line from the junk which is drawn alongside of
+our huge ships, and then pass baskets of coal from one to the other. Many of the women and girls have babies strapped on their
+backs, and there they stand in line for hours passing these baskets back and forth. As I was watching them one day, for I
+saw them loading many times, for some reason not apparent, they all pounced upon one small man, and, as I thought, kicked
+him to pieces with their heavy wooden shoes and strong feet. After five minutes of such pummeling, as I was looking for a
+few shreds of a flattened out Japanese, he arose, shook himself, got in line, and passed baskets as before.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb36" href="#pb36">36</a>]</span></p>
+<p>One day from my comfortable bamboo chair I watched some coolies getting some immense timbers out of the bay near where I sat.
+It did not seem possible that these small men could manage those huge timbers, which were so slippery from lying in the water
+that they would often have to allow them to slip back, even after they had got them nearly on land. I expected every moment
+to see those poor creatures either plunge into the water themselves or be crushed by the weight of the heavy timbers; and
+while I watched for about two hours they must have taken out about twenty or thirty logs, twenty or twenty-five feet long
+and two feet through. I often watched the coolies unloading ships. Two of them would take six or eight trunks, bind them together,
+run a heavy bamboo pole through the knotted ends and away they would go. I never saw a single person carding what we, in America,
+pride ourselves so much on, &#8220;a full dinner pail.&#8221; They did not even seem to have the pail.
+
+</p>
+<p>There are horses in Japan and they are poor specimens compared with the fine animals that we know. They are chiefly pack-horses,
+used in climbing over the mountains, consequently they go with their noses almost on the ground. Instead of iron shoes they
+have huge ones made of plaited straw. They are literally skin and bones, these poor beasts of burden.
+
+</p>
+<p>Horses may be judged, in part, by the mouth; but the Japs may be wholly judged by the leg. It did distress me to ride after
+a pair of legs whose calves were abnormally large, whose varicose veins were swollen almost to bursting. As a rule, the men
+trot along with very little <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb37" href="#pb37">37</a>]</span>effort and, seemingly, have a very good time. They cheerfully play the part of both horseman and horse, of conductor, motineer
+and power.
+
+</p>
+<p>I never could get used to the number of Jinrickshas drawn up in front of the railroad station, and as it is the only way to
+get about the country, I accepted it with as good a grace as I could. At a large station there may be hundreds of rickshaws
+and double hundreds of drivers, all clamoring as wildly as our most aggressive cabmen. They wave their hands frantically,
+crying, &#8220;Me speak English! Me speak English! Me speak English!&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>They knew originally, or have learned of foreigners, how to cheat in Japan as elsewhere. One often needs to ask, &#8220;Is this
+real tortoise shell?&#8221; The answer, even if imitation, is &#8220;Now, this is good; this is without flaw.&#8221; I found it of great advantage,
+as far as possible, to keep the same men, and they became interested, not only in taking me to better places, but in assisting
+me in procuring articles, not only of the best value, but at Japanese prices. It is never best to purchase the first time
+you see anything, even if you want it very badly. I secured one Satsuma cup that has a thousand faces on it. It is very old,
+very wonderfully exact, and a work of very great art. It took me several days to purchase it, as the man was very loath to
+part with it, and at the end I got it for very much less than I was willing to give the first day.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p037" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p037.jpg" alt="Maikonohama, Banshu." width="720" height="556"><p class="figureHead">Maikonohama, Banshu.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>They do not seem to have any day of rest&#8212;all shops are open seven days of the week. All work goes on in the same unbroken
+round. Indeed, from the time I left San Francisco until my return, it was hard for me to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb38" href="#pb38">38</a>]</span>&#8220;keep track&#8221; of Sunday, even with the almanac I carried; and when I did chase it down, I involuntarily exclaimed, &#8220;But today
+is Saturday at home; the Saturday crowds will parade the streets this evening; the churches will not be open until tomorrow
+morning.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>I learned here that the average wages of a laboring man, working from dawn to dark, is about seven cents a day of our money.
+The men do much of the menial service, much of the delicate work, too. The finest embroidery, with most intricate patterns
+and delicate tracings in white and colors, is done by men. Two will work at the frame, one putting the needle through on his
+side, and the other thrusting it back. In that way the embroideries are alike on both sides, except the work which is to be
+framed. They are so very industrious that they very rarely look up when anyone is examining their work.
+
+</p>
+<p>As I was watching some glass blowers, the little son of one raised his eyes from the various intricate bulbs that he was handing
+to his father and gave him the wrong color. Without a word of warning the father gave him a severe stroke with the hot tube
+across the forehead, which left a welt the size of my finger. Without one cry of pain he immediately handed his father the
+correct tube and went on with his work as if nothing had happened. I had intended to buy that very article, but it would have
+meant to me the suffering it cost the child, and I would not have taken it if it had been given me.
+
+</p>
+<p>Sanitary conditions, as far as I could judge, were bad. The houses, in the first place, are very small. I understand they
+are made small on account of earthquakes. It <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb39" href="#pb39">39</a>]</span>is said that the whole of Japan is in one quake all the time. They have shocks daily, hence, the houses are only one story
+high.
+
+</p>
+<p>I attended an auction of one of the finest collections of works of art that had ever been placed before the public. The only
+way we could tell that many of these works were especially choice was by the number of elegantly dressed Japanese who were
+bending before them in admiration. One could see that, as a whole, it was a collection of rare things. The books and pictures
+were the most interesting. One picture, &#8220;White Chickens,&#8221; on white parchment was very artistic. It did not seen possible that
+these white feathered fowls could so nearly resemble the live birds in their various attitudes and sizes, for there were about
+twelve from the smallest chick to the largest crowing chanticleer of the barn yard. Another picture was of fish, which was
+so exact that one could almost vow that they were alive and ready to be caught. Indeed, one of the fish was on the end of
+the line with the hook in his mouth, and his resistance was seen from the captive head to the end of the little forked tail.
+They excel in birds, butterflies and flowers; and one knows the full meaning of the &#8220;Flowery Kingdom&#8221; of both China and Japan
+as one travels about. One sees in the public parks notices posted, &#8220;Strangers do not molest or capture the butterflies.&#8221; For
+nowhere, except in this Oriental country, are the butterflies so gorgeously magnificent.
+
+</p>
+<p>Japan is truly a land of umbrellas and parasols. With frames made of the light, delicate bamboo, strands woven closely and
+then either covered with fine rice paper or <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb40" href="#pb40">40</a>]</span>silk, they are ready for rain or sunshine. They all carry them. The markets are the most attractive that one could imagine,
+but after hearing of the means used to enrich the soil, it is impossible to enjoy any fruit or vegetable. In all the towns
+are the native and the European quarters. In the latter one can have thoroughly good accommodations; the service and attendance
+are excellent.
+
+</p>
+<p>At one place on the coast of Japan there is cormorant fishing. Men go in small boats with flaring torches, hundreds of them.
+The birds with their long bills reach down into the water and pick up a huge fish, then the master immediately takes it out
+of the bill, before it can be swallowed, and places it in his boat for market. These birds in a single evening get thousands
+of fish. I suppose they are rewarded at the end of their service by being allowed to fish for themselves.
+
+</p>
+<p>Kite flying is a favorite pastime; the size, shape, and curious decorations are astonishing. They have fights with their kites
+up in the air, and there is just as much excitement over these kite games as we ever have over foot-ball. They go into paroxysms
+of joy when the favorite wins. There are singing kites and signal kites and a hundred other kinds.
+
+</p>
+<p>I saw no children indulging in any games on the streets. As soon as they are able to carry or do anything at all they seem
+to be employed. I could not but think that most of the Japanese children are unhealthy. Every one of them had sore eyes. Small
+of statue, the children seemed too small to walk, and yet those that looked only seven or eight years old would, invariably,
+have each a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb41" href="#pb41">41</a>]</span>baby strapped on his back, and the poor little creatures would go running about with the small human burdens dangling as they
+could.
+
+</p>
+<p>There is one delightful thing about the people, as a whole, their attentive, courteous manners; their solicitude to assist
+you in whatever they can. They are a domestic and thrifty little race, the men doing by far the larger part of the work. The
+enormous burdens that these little mites of humanity can pick up and carry are an increasing wonder.
+
+</p>
+<p>In visiting Japan, it is convenient to make Yokohama one&#8217;s headquarters for the northern part of the kingdom, Nagasaki for
+the southern part, and Kobe for the central part; and from these centers to take excursions to the various points of interest.
+
+</p>
+<p>My first visit was brief, for I still clung to the G&aelig;lic, moving when she moved, and stopping at her ports according to her
+schedule. But I returned and made a stay of many months, exploring at leisure the more important or attractive places. I have
+gathered together in this rambling account the various observations and impressions of these various visits, and have tried
+to unite them into one story.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o103.gif" alt="Ornament." width="115" height="53"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb42" href="#pb42">42</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch6" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">In Shanghai.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Six.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-b.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-b.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">B</span>ut it is time to bid Japan good-bye and sail for China. It is a three days&#8217; voyage from Nagasaki to Shanghai. We left the
+ship at the broad mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang and in a small river boat went up a tributary to Shanghai, a distance of twelve
+miles.
+
+</p>
+<p>I was met at the dock by our Consul General, John Goodnow, and his wife, with their elegantly liveried coachman, and was taken
+to the consulate, and, after a fine tiffin (lunch), we started for the walled city. A shrinking horror seized me as if I were
+at the threshold of the infernal regions as we crossed the draw bridge over the moat and entered the narrow gate of the vast
+city of more than a million souls. Immediately we were greeted by the &#8220;wailers&#8221; and lepers,&#8212;this was my first sight of the
+loathsome leprosy. Our guide had supplied himself with a quantity of small change. Twenty-five cents of our money made about
+a quart of their small change. A moment later we met the funeral cortege of a rich merchant. First came wailers and then men
+beating on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb43" href="#pb43">43</a>]</span>drums; then sons of the deceased dressed in white (white is their emblem of mourning); then the servants carrying the body
+on their shoulders. More wailers followed, then came the wives. It made a strange impression.
+
+</p>
+<p>The streets are so very narrow that we had to press our bodies close against the wall to keep from being crushed as the procession
+passed us. We heard the tooting of a horn. Our guide said, &#8220;Here comes the Mandarin.&#8221; We began to press ourselves into a niche
+in the wall to watch him pass. First came the buglers, then the soldiers and last the gayly-bedecked Mandarin carried in a
+sedan chair on the shoulders of six coolies. He looked the very picture of the severe authority that he is invested with.
+They say that he has witnessed in one day the execution of five hundred criminals. He was obliged to put a mark on each one&#8217;s
+head with his own fingers, and, after the head was severed from the body, to remark it in proof of the exactness of his work.
+I was glad when I had seen the last of him, though it is only to go from bad to worse.
+
+</p>
+<p>In the opium dens, hundreds of people, of both sexes, of various ages, kinds and colors, were reclining in most horrible attitudes.
+One glimpse was enough for me.
+
+</p>
+<p>From this place we entered the temple. One of our guides said he was obliged to buy joss-sticks and kneel before the gods
+or it would make us trouble, because they are watchful of what foreigners do. They consider us white devils. We saw a war
+god nine feet high mounted on a war steed one foot high, a child&#8217;s woolly toy. There were placed before the gods about six
+or eight cups of tea and hundreds of fragrant burning tapers.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb44" href="#pb44">44</a>]</span></p>
+<p>At one point our hearts failed us. We came to a dark bridge; it looked so forbidding with its various windings, so frail in
+structure, so thronged, that we were timid about stepping upon it. Being assured that it was safe we ventured across. While
+it shook under our weight, we did not fall into the filthy frog-pond beneath.
+
+</p>
+<p>When we reached the center, there were a number of sleight-of-hand performers who were doing all sorts of curious things;
+bringing out of the stone pavement living animals, bottles of wine, bits of porcelain, and cakes, too filthy looking even
+to touch.
+
+</p>
+<p>There were for sale numbers of beautiful birds in cages and wonderful bits of art of most intricate patterns and exquisite
+fineness. We saw beautiful pieces of brocaded silk and satin on little hand-looms, made by these patient, ever working people,
+who only have one week in the year for rest. There does not seem to be any provision made for night or rest, and each Chinaman
+looks forward to this one holiday week in which he does no work whatever, and in which he must have all the money ready to
+pay every debt he owes or be punished.
+
+</p>
+<p>I did not learn how much the average Chinaman gets for a day&#8217;s wages, but I know that one of my friends sent a dozen linen
+dresses to be laundried, and that the charge was thirty-six cents. To be sure a satin dress that she sent to be cleaned was
+put in the tub with the rest. In the markets were impossible looking sausages, dried ducks, and curious frogs. In China, as
+in Japan, each individual has his own little table about two feet long, fourteen inches wide and six or eight inches high,&#8212;not
+unlike a tray.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb45" href="#pb45">45</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Their religion is centuries old, but if cleanliness be next to godliness, they are still centuries away from Christian virtues.
+The vast city crowded from portal to portal is one seething mass of living beings pushing, hustling, and silent. With the
+exception of a soothsayer, I did not see in an entire day two people talking together, so intent were they on their various
+duties.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was a joy to get out of the native into the European parts of Shanghai and feel safe; and yet there was not a single thing,
+upon thinking it over, that one could say was alarming, not a disrespectful look from any one. I said upon reaching the outer
+gate, &#8220;Thank God, we are out of there alive and safe.&#8221; It was the first experience only to be renewed with like scenes and
+impressions at Canton, with the same thankfulness of heart, too, for escape.
+
+</p>
+<p>Our guide told us that he would be in no way responsible for anything that might happen in traveling about Canton. The land
+and its people are a marvel and a mystery; the great wonder is how all this vast multitude can be reached and helped.
+
+</p>
+<p>The rivers teem with all sorts of junks filled with all sorts of wares going to market, and it was upon the quays that we
+found for sale the finest carved things, the richest embroideries, the most delicately wrought wares. The monkey seems to
+be a favorite subject with the artist. Look at these exquisite bits of carved ivory. This one is the god monkey who sees no
+evil, his hands cover his eyes; this one is the god monkey who hears no evil, his hands cover his ears; and this one is the
+god monkey who speaks <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb46" href="#pb46">46</a>]</span>no evil, his hands cover his mouth. Half ashamed of our own dullness an old lesson came back with new significance,&#8212;be blind,
+deaf, and dumb towards evil.
+
+</p>
+<p>One curiously wrought specimen of art was an inkwell encircled by nine monkeys. In the center, on the lid, was the finest
+monkey of all; the diversity of bodily attitudes, the variety of facial expressions, and the perfection of all was wonderful.
+Temple cloths, with pictures of various gods embroidered in fine threads of gold, were marvels of patient labor.
+
+</p>
+<p>We once entertained at our home in Akron a converted Chinaman who had come to Gambier, Ohio, to study for the ministry. After
+the lapse of many years his son came to Ohio to be educated. It was interesting to hear him tell of the ways and customs of
+his native land. I asked him about servants being so very cheap, and he informed me that good servants might not be considered
+so cheap. The best families, according to the value they place upon the friendship of their friends, pay for every present
+received a certain per cent. of its value to their servants; and at every birthday of any member of the family, every wedding,
+every birth and death, there are hundreds of presents exchanged. I saw many servants in the large cities carrying these various
+gifts, and some of the servants were dressed very well, having, on the garments they wore, the coat-of-arms or rank of their
+master. On a little table or tray was placed the richly embroidered family napkin with the gift neatly wrapped therein, and
+on both sides were placed lighted tapers or artificial flowers.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb47" href="#pb47">47</a>]</span></p>
+<p>As with Shanghai so with all the coast towns of China, there is the old walled city swarming with millions of natives, and
+the new or European city as modern as New York. My two days&#8217; stay seemed like two weeks, so full was it of strange sights.
+
+</p>
+<p>On returning to the G&aelig;lic, I was pleased to find that two Americans had been added to our passenger list. Indeed, it was the
+last of the many kindly offices of Mr. Goodnow to introduce me to Rev. and Mrs. C. Goodrich. These new friends were delightful
+traveling companions. For a longer stay at Hong Kong and a much better boat to Manila, I was indebted to their thoughtfulness
+for me.
+
+</p>
+<p>We were told that we must all get in position to watch the entrance at Hong Kong. Captain Finch said that for fifteen years
+he always went down from the bridge as soon as he could to see the wonderful display of curious junks and craft of every conceivable
+kind that swarmed about the boat, some advertising their wares, some booming hotels, some fortune-telling in hieroglyphics
+which only the Chinese can interpret.
+
+</p>
+<p>Before our boat dropped anchor there were hundreds of Celestials climbing up the sides of the ship with all kinds of articles
+for sale. There were sleight-of-hand performers, there were tumblers of red looking stuff to drink; there were trained mice
+and rats. We had a man on shipboard who was very clever with these sleight-of-hand tricks, but he said he could not see where
+they got a single one of the reptiles and articles that they would take out of the ladies&#8217; hands, their bonnets, and his own
+feet, which were bare.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb48" href="#pb48">48</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The city of Hong Kong is built upon a rock whose sides are almost vertical. The city park is considered one of the finest
+in the world. It has been said that every known tree and shrub is grown there; and when one considers that every foot of its
+soil has been carried to its place, the wonder is how it has all been done. The blossoms seem to say, &#8220;The whole world is
+here and in bloom.&#8221; The banyan tree grows here luxuriantly and is a great curiosity. The main trunk of the tree grows to the
+height of about thirty or forty feet. The first branches, and indeed many of the upper branches, strike down into the ground.
+These give the trees the appearance of being supported on huge sticks. As to the bamboo, it is the principal tree of which
+they build their houses, and make many articles for export in the shape of woven chairs, tables, and baskets of most intricate
+and beautiful designs, most reasonable in price. The first shoots in spring are used as food and make a delicious dish. It
+is prepared like cauliflower. Our much despised &#8220;pussley&#8221; proves to be a veritable blessing here; it makes a nice green or
+salad.
+
+</p>
+<p>China seemed like one vast graveyard, full of huge mounds from three to five feet high, without special marking. Each family
+knows where its own ancestors are buried. One of the reasons why they oppose the building of railroads through their country
+is their reverence for these burial piles.
+
+</p>
+<p>One of the very best missionary establishments that I know anything about is the hospital in Shanghai. The institution is
+full to overflowing and the amount of good <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb49" href="#pb49">49</a>]</span>that the nurses do there is beyond human measure. I heard pathetic stories almost beyond belief; I hope that the grand workers
+in that field are supplied with all they need in the way of money.
+
+</p>
+<p>Servants seldom remain at night in the house of their employers or partake of the food that is prepared for the household.
+The rich enjoy pleasure trips on the house-boats; they take their servants, horses, and carriages with them, and leaving the
+river at pleasure they journey up through the country to the inland towns. One cannot understand how the poor exist as they
+do on their house-boats. Of course, those hired by the Americans and English are well appointed, but a large proportion of
+the inhabitants are born, live, and die on these junks which do not seem large enough to hold even two people and yet multitudes
+live on them in squalor and misery. I have a great respect for the determination of Chinese children to get an education.
+It is truly wonderful that with more than fifty thousand characters to learn, they ever acquire any knowledge. Some of the
+scholars study diligently all their lives, trying to the last to win prizes.
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb50" href="#pb50">50</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch7" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Hong Kong to Manila.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Seven.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-f.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-f.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">F</span>rom Hong Kong to Manila we were fortunate in being upon an Australian steamer which was very comfortable, indeed, with Japanese
+for sailors and attendants. At last I was in the tropics and felt for the first time what tropical heat can be; the sun poured
+down floods of intolerable heat. The first feeling is that one can not endure it; one gasps like a fish out of water and vows
+with laboring breath, &#8220;I&#8217;ll take the next steamer home, oh, home!&#8221; It took four days to reach Manila. The bay is a broad expanse
+of water, a sea in itself. The city is a magnificent sight, its white houses with Spanish tiled roofs, its waving palms, its
+gentle slopes rising gradually to the mountains in the back ground.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p050" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p050.jpg" alt="Native Lady." width="349" height="541"><p class="figureHead">Native Lady.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The waters swarmed with craft of every fashion and every country. How beautiful they looked, our own great warships and transports!
+No large ship can draw nearer to shore than two or three miles. All our army supplies must be transferred by the native boats
+to the quartermaster&#8217;s department, there to be sorted for distribution <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb51" href="#pb51">51</a>]</span>to the islands where the troops are stationed. This necessitates the reloading of stores on the boats, to be transferred again
+to medium sized vessels to complete their journey. A volunteer quartermaster told me, that, on an average, every seventh box
+was wholly empty and the contents of the other six were rarely intact. The lost goods sometimes reappeared on native heads
+or backs. Coal oil was in demand, and disappeared with amazing celerity; it is far better for lights than cocoanut oil.
+
+</p>
+<p>Custom house inspection being quickly over, we landed. The beauty of the distant view was instantly dispelled; one glance
+and there was a wild desire to take those dirty, almost nude creatures in hand and, holding them at arm&#8217;s length, dip them
+into some cleansing caldron. The sanitary efforts of our army are effecting changes beyond praise both in the people and their
+surroundings.
+
+</p>
+<p>A little two wheeled quielas (k&eacute;-las) drawn by a very diminutive horse took me to the Hotel Oriente, since turned into a government
+office. I noticed that the floors were washed in kerosene to check the vermin that else would carry everything off bodily.
+The hotel was so crowded that I was obliged to occupy a room with a friend, which was no hardship as I had already had several
+shocks from new experiences. We had no sooner sat down to talk matters over than I started up nervously at queer squeaks.
+My friend remarked, &#8220;Never mind, you will soon get used to them, they are only lizards most harmless, and most necessary in
+this country.&#8221; The beds in our room were four high posters with a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb52" href="#pb52">52</a>]</span>cane seat for the mattress, a small bamboo mat, one sheet, and one pillow stuffed with raw cotton and very hard. As we were
+tucked in our little narrow beds mosquito netting was carefully drawn about us. &#8220;Neatly laid out,&#8221; said one. &#8220;All ready for
+the morgue,&#8221; responded the other.
+
+</p>
+<p>The next morning we watched with interest the <span class="corr" id="xd0e938" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> as they were taken from the muddy pools in which they had found shelter for the night. The natives begin work at dawn and
+rest two or three hours in the middle of the day. It seemed to me too hot for any man or beast to stir.
+
+</p>
+<p>When a large drove of <span class="corr" id="xd0e943" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> are massed together it seems inevitable that they shall injure each other with their great horns, six or eight feet long
+but fortunately they are curved back. Strange, too, I thought it, that these large animals should be driven by small children&#8212;my
+small children were really sixteen to twenty years old.
+
+</p>
+<p>We ventured forth upon this first morning and found a large cathedral close by. It was all we could do to push our way through
+the throng of half-naked creatures that were squatting in front of the church to sell flowers, fruits, cakes, beads, and other
+small wares.
+
+</p>
+<p>We pressed on through crooked streets out toward the principal shopping district, but soon found it impossible to go even
+that short distance without a carriage, the heat was so overpowering. We turned to the old city, Manila proper, passed over
+the drawbridge, and under the arch of its inclosing wall, centuries old.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb53" href="#pb53">53</a>]</span></p>
+<p>We went to the quartermaster&#8217;s department to get transportation to Iloilo. It gave a delightful feeling of protection to see
+our soldiers in and about everywhere. At this time Judge William H. Taft had not been made governor; the city was still under
+military rule, and there were constant outbreaks, little insurrections at many points, especially in the suburbs. We were
+surprised to find the city so large and so densely populated.
+
+</p>
+<p>It is useless to deny that we were in constant fear even when there were soldiers by. The unsettled conditions gave us a creepy
+feeling that expressed itself in the anxious faces and broken words of our American women. One would say, &#8220;Oh I feel just
+like a fool, I am so scared.&#8221; Another would say, &#8220;Dear me, don&#8217;t I wish I were at home,&#8221;&#8212;another, &#8220;I just wish I could get
+under some bed and hide.&#8221; But for all their fears they stayed, yielding only so far as to take a short vacation in Japan.
+There is not much in the way of sight seeing in Manila beyond the enormous cathedrals many of which were closed. About five
+o&#8217;clock in the afternoon everybody goes to the luneta to take a drive on the beach, hear the bands play, and watch the crowds.
+It is a smooth beach for about two miles. Here are the elite of Manila. The friars and priests saunter along, some in long
+white many-overlapping capes, and some in gowns. Rich and poor, clean and filthy, gay and wretched, gather here and stay until
+about half-past six, when it is dark. The rich Filipinos dine at eight.
+
+</p>
+<p>The social life in Manila, as one might suppose, was somewhat restricted for Americans. The weather is so <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb54" href="#pb54">54</a>]</span>enervating that it is impossible to get up very much enthusiasm over entertainments. During my stay in Manila, in all, perhaps
+two months, there was little in the way of social festivity except an occasional ball in the halls of the Hotel Oriente, nor
+did the officers who had families there have accommodations for much beyond an occasional exchange of dinners and lunches.
+
+</p>
+<p>The Americans, as a rule, did not take kindly to either entertaining or being entertained by natives, and besides they could
+not endure the heavy, late dinners and banquets.
+
+</p>
+<p>At one grand Filipino ball (bailie) an eight or ten course dinner was served about midnight. The men and women did not sit
+down together at this banquet, the older men ate at the first table, then the older women, then the young men, lastly the
+young women. After the feast there were two or three slow waltzes carried on in most solemn manner, and then came the huge
+task of waking up the cocheroes (drivers) to go home. While everything was done in a quick way according to a Filipino&#8217;s ideas,
+it took an hour or two to get ready. The only thing that does make a lot of noise and confusion is the quarreling of Filipino
+horses that are tethered near each other. I thought American horses could fight and kick, but these little animals stand on
+their hind legs and fight and strike with their fore feet in a way that is alarming and amusing. They are beset day and night
+with plagues of insects. No wonder they are restless.
+
+</p>
+<p>The <span class="corr" id="xd0e965" title="Source: Bilibeb">Bilibid</span> Prison in Manila is the largest in the Philippines, and contains the most prisoners. The time to see the convicts and men
+is at night when they are on <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb55" href="#pb55">55</a>]</span>dress parade. Of the several hundred that I saw, I do not think that anyone of them is in there for other than just cause.
+They are made to work and some of them are very artistic and do most beautiful carvings on wood, bamboo and leather. It is
+very hard now to get any order filled, so great a demand has been created for their handi-work. I could not but notice the
+manner of the on-lookers as they came each day to see those poor wretches. They seemed to have no pity; and then, there were
+very few women who were prisoners. I do not remember seeing more than three or four in each of the five prisons that I visited.
+Orders were taken for the fancy articles made in these prisons. One warden said he had orders for several months&#8217; work ahead.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o055.gif" alt="Ornament." width="116" height="98"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb56" href="#pb56">56</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch8" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Iloilo and Jaro.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Eight.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-w.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-w.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">W</span>e went from Manila to Iloilo on a Spanish steamer. I gave one look at the stateroom that was assigned to me and decided to
+sleep on deck in my steamer chair. I had been told that I positively could not eat the food which the ship would prepare,
+so I took a goodly supply with me.
+
+</p>
+<p>The captain was so gracious that I could not let him know my plans, so I pleaded illness but he ordered some things brought
+to me. There was a well prepared chicken with plenty of rice but made so hot with pepper that I threw it into the sea; next,
+some sort of salad floating in oil and smelling of garlic, it went overboard. Eggs cooked in oil followed the salad; last
+the &#8220;dulce,&#8221; a composition of rice and custard perfumed with anise seed oil, made the menu of the fishes complete. I now gladly
+opened my box of crackers and cheese, oranges, figs and dates.
+
+</p>
+<p>As the sun declined, I sat watching the islands. We were passing by what is known as the inner course. They <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb57" href="#pb57">57</a>]</span>lay fair and fragrant as so many Edens afloat upon a body of water as beautiful as any that mortal eyes have ever seen. Huge
+palms rose high in air, their long feathery leaves swaying softly in the golden light. Darkness fell like a curtain; but the
+waters now gleamed like nether heavens with their own stars of phosphorescent light.
+
+</p>
+<p>On the voyage to Japan, a fellow passenger asked if I were sure that Iloilo was my destination in the Philippines and, being
+assured that it was, informed me that there was no such place on the ship&#8217;s maps, which were considered very accurate. The
+Island of Panay was there, but no town of Iloilo.
+
+</p>
+<p>Iloilo (&eacute;-lo-&eacute;-lo) is the second city in size of the Philippines. It stands on a peninsula and has a good harbor if it were
+not for the shifting sands that make it rather difficult for the large steamers to come to the wharf and the tide running
+very high at times makes it harder still. There is a long wharf bordered with huge warehouses full of exports and imports.
+Vast quantities of sugar, hemp and tobacco are gathered here for shipment. It is a center of exchange, a place of large business,
+especially active during the first years of our occupation.
+
+</p>
+<p>Immense caravan trains go out from here to the various army posts to carry food and other supplies, while ships, like farm
+yards adrift, ply on the same errand between port and port. Cebu and Negros are the largest receiving stations.
+
+</p>
+<p>In the center of the town is the plaza or park. Here, after getting things in order, a pole was set, and the stars <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb58" href="#pb58">58</a>]</span>and stripes unfurled to the breeze. The quarters of our soldiers were near the park and so our boys had a pleasant place to
+lounge when off duty in the early morning or evening. When our troops first landed here in 1898 there was quite a battle,
+but I am not able to give its details. The results are obvious enough. The native army set fire to the city before fleeing
+across the river to the town of Jaro (H&aacute;r-ro). The frame work of the upper part of the buildings was burned but the walls
+or lower part remains.
+
+</p>
+<p>After the battle at Jaro, I went out to live for awhile in the quarters of Captain Walter H. Gordon, Lieutenant J. Barnes,
+and Lieutenant A. L. Conger, 18th U. S. A. I soon realized that the war was still on, for every day and night, the rattle
+of musketry told that somewhere there was trouble.
+
+</p>
+<p>One day I went out to see the fortifications deserted by the Filipinos. They were curious indeed; built as an officer suggested,
+to be run away from, not to be defended. One fortification was ingeniously made of sacks of sugar. Everywhere was devastation
+and waste and burned buildings. The natives had fled to distant towns or mountains.
+
+</p>
+<p>All this sounds bad and looked worse, and yet it takes but a little while to restore all. The houses are quickly rebuilt;
+a bamboo roof is made, it is lifted to the desired height on poles set in or upon the ground. The walls are weavings of bamboo
+or are plaited nepa. The nepa is a variety of bamboo grown near shallow sea water. When one of these rude dwellings is completed,
+it is <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb59" href="#pb59">59</a>]</span>ready for an ordinary family. They do not use a single article that we consider essential to housekeeping. Some of the better
+class have a kind of stove; its top is covered with a layer of sand or small pebbles, four or five inches thick; on this stand
+bricks or small tripods to hold the little pots used in cooking. Under each pot is a tiny fire. The skillful cook plays upon
+his several fires as a musician upon his keys, adding a morsel of fuel to one, drawing a coal from another; stirring all the
+concoctions with the same spoon. The baking differs only in there being an upper story of coals on the lid.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p059" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p059.jpg" alt="Town of Molo, Island of Panay." width="720" height="511"><p class="figureHead">Town of Molo, Island of Panay.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>It has been said that fools rush in where angels fear to tread. Two or three of us American women, eager to learn all we could,
+because we were daily told that the war was over and we should soon be going home, were rashly venturesome. But we soon found
+that it was unsafe to go about Molo or Iloilo even with a guide, and so we had to content ourselves with looking at the quantities
+of beautiful things brought to our door. We were tempted daily to buy the lovely fabrics woven by the native women. Every
+incoming ship is beset by a swarm of small traders who find their best customers amongst American women. Officers and men,
+too, are generous buyers for friends at home. The native weaves of every quality and color are surprisingly beautiful.
+
+</p>
+<p>Jusa (ho&oacute;-sa) cloth is made from jusi fibre; pi&ntilde;a (peen-yah) from pineapple fibre; cinemi is a mixture of the two; abaka (a-ba-ka)
+from hemp fibre; algodon from the native cotton; sada is silk; sabana is a mixture of cotton and hemp.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb60" href="#pb60">60</a>]</span></p>
+<p>We visited many of the places where the most extensive weaving is done, and there we saw the most wretched-looking, old women
+handling the hair-like threads. Each one had by her side some emblem of the Roman Church as she sat at her daily task. These
+poor, dirty, misshapen creatures, weaving from daylight to dark, earn about fifty cents a month. So many of the women are
+deformed and unclean, both the makers and the sellers, that it seemed utterly incongruous that they should handle the most
+delicate materials. In all my observations, I saw but one nice, clean woman of the lower classes. In our happy country we
+do not think of seeing a whole class of people diseased or maimed. In the Philippines one seldom sees a well formed person;
+or if the form is good, the face is disfigured by small-pox.
+
+</p>
+<p>I was surprised, at first, on looking out after breakfast, to find at my door every morning from two to a dozen women and
+boys in sitting posture, almost nude, only a thin waist on the body, and a piece of cotton drawn tightly round the legs. Many
+would be solemnly and industriously chewing the betel nut, which colors lips and saliva a vivid red.
+
+</p>
+<p>It would not only be impertinent on my part to relate particulars of our army, but I should undoubtedly do as Mrs. Partington
+did&#8212;&#8220;open my patrician mouth and put my plebeian foot in it.&#8221; The first thing I did on arriving at Iloilo was to call mess
+&#8220;board&#8221; and go to bed instead of &#8220;turning in.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>In time of special danger, the various commanders were very kind in providing guards&#8212;mostly, however, to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb61" href="#pb61">61</a>]</span>protect Government property. I felt no great uneasiness about personal safety, though I always &#8220;slept with one eye open.&#8221;
+We were so frequently threatened that we stood ready every moment to move on. Shots during the night are not, as a rule, conducive
+to sleep, and I did not like the sound of the balls as they struck the house. I had my plans laid to get behind the stone
+wall at the rear of the passage and lie on the floor. It was necessary to keep a close watch on the servants who were &#8220;muchee
+hard luc&#8221; (very much afraid) at the slightest change in the movements of either army, home or foreign.
+
+</p>
+<p>Their system of wireless telegraphy was most efficient, so much so that one day at 2 <span class="smallcaps">P. M.</span> I was told by a native of an engagement that had taken place at 10 <span class="smallcaps">A. M.</span> in a distant part of the island, remote from the telegraph stations. I wondered how he could have known, and later learned
+of their systems of signaling by kites. For night messages the kites are illuminated. They are expert, not only in flying,
+but in making them.
+
+</p>
+<p>Their schools are like pandemonium let loose; all the pupils studying aloud together, making a deafening, rasping noise. Sessions
+from 7 to 10 <span class="smallcaps">A. M.</span>, 3 to 6 <span class="smallcaps">P. M.</span>
+
+</p>
+<p>The large Mexican dollars are too cumbersome to carry in any ordinary purse. If one wishes to draw even a moderate sum, it
+is necessary to take a cart or carriage. A good sized garden shovel on one side and a big canvas bag on the other expedites
+bank transactions in the islands.
+
+</p>
+<p>At the time of the evacuation of Jaro by the insurrectos, our officers chose their quarters from the houses the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb62" href="#pb62">62</a>]</span>natives had fled from. The house which we occupied had formerly been used as the Portuguese Consulate. Like all the better
+houses the lower part was built of stone, and the upper part of boards. There was very little need of heavy boards or timbers
+except to hold the sliding windows. I should think the whole house was about eighty feet square with rear porch that was used
+for a summer garden. The pillars of this porch were things of real beauty. They were covered with orchids that in the hottest
+weather were all dried up and quite unsightly, but when the rainy season began they were very beautiful in their luxuriance
+of growth and bloom. The front door was in three parts; the great double doors which opened outward to admit carriages and
+a small door in one of the larger doors. There was a huge knocker, the upper part was a woman&#8217;s head. To open the large doors
+it was necessary to pull the latch by a cord that came up through the floor to one of the inner rooms. I used to occupy this
+room at night and it was my office and my pleasure to pull the bobbin and let the latch fly up when the scouting troop would
+come in late at night. Captain Gordon said that he never found me napping, that I was always ready to greet them as soon as
+their horses turned the corner two squares away. The entrance door admitted to a great hall with a stone floor, ending in
+apartments for the horses. On the right of the hall were rooms for domestic purposes, such as for the family looms, four or
+five of them, and for stores of food and goods. On the left there were four steps up and then a platform, then three steps
+down into a room about <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb63" href="#pb63">63</a>]</span>twenty feet square. There were two windows in this room with heavy gratings. We used it as a store room for the medical supplies.
+Returning to the platform, there were two heavy doors that swung in, we kept them bolted with heavy wooden bolts; there were
+no locks on any doors. At the foot of the steps was a long narrow room with one small window; it was directly over the part
+where the animals were. The hall was lighted with quite a handsome Venetian glass chandelier in which we used candles. From
+this room we entered the large main room of the house; the ceiling and side wall was covered with leather or oil cloth held
+in place with large tacks; there were sliding windows on two sides of the room which, when shoved back, opened the room so
+completely as to give the effect of being out of doors; the front windows looked out on the street, the side windows on the
+garden, on many trees, cocoanut, chico, bamboo, and palm. There was a large summer house in the center of the garden and the
+paths which led up to it were bordered with empty beer bottles. The garden was enclosed by a plastered wall about eight feet
+high, into the top of which were inserted broken bottles and sharp irons to keep out intruders. The house was covered with
+a sheet iron roof. The few dishes that we found upon our occupation were of excellent china but the three or four sideboards
+were quite inferior. The whole house was wired for bells. This is true of many of the houses, indeed they are all fashioned
+on one model, and all plain in finish, extra carving or fine wood-work would only make more work for the busy little ants.
+Even when furniture <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb64" href="#pb64">64</a>]</span>looked whole, we often found ourselves landed on the floor; it was no uncommon thing for a chair to give way; it had been
+honeycombed and was held together by the varnish alone.
+
+</p>
+<p>My first evening in Jaro was one of great fear. We were told by a priest that we were to be attacked and burned out. While
+sitting at dinner I heard just behind me a fearful noise that sounded like &#8220;Gluck-co-gluck-co.&#8221; An American officer told me
+it was an alarm clock, but as a matter of fact it was an immense lizard, an animal for which I soon lost all antipathy, because
+of its appetite for the numerous bugs that infest the islands. Unfortunately they have no taste for the roaches, the finger-long
+roaches that crawl all over the floor. Neither were they of assistance in exterminating the huge rats and mice, nor the ants.
+The ants! It is impossible to describe how these miserable pests overran everything; they were on the beds, they were on the
+tables. Our table legs were set in cups of coal oil and our floors were washed with coal oil at least once every week. This
+disagreeable condition of things will not be wondered at, when I say that the horses, cattle, and <span class="corr" id="xd0e1055" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> are kept in the lower part of the house, and the pigs, cats, and dogs allowed up stairs with the family. The servants are
+required to stay below with the cattle.
+
+</p>
+<p>The animals are all diseased, especially the horses. Our men were careful that their horses were kept far from the native
+beasts. The cats are utterly inferior. The mongoose, a little animal between a ferret and a rat, is very useful; no well-kept
+house is without one. Rats <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb65" href="#pb65">65</a>]</span>swarm in such vast hordes that the mongoose is absolutely necessary to keep them down. Still more necessary is the house snake.
+These reptiles are brought to market on a bamboo pole and usually sell for about one dollar apiece. Mine used to make great
+havoc among the rats up in the attic. Never before had I known what rats were. Every night, notwithstanding the mongoose,
+the house snake, and the traps, I used to lay in a supply of bricks, anything to throw at them when they would congregate
+in my room and have a pitched battle. They seemed to stand in awe of United States officers. A soldier said one night, glancing
+about, &#8220;Why, I thought the rats moved out all of your furniture.&#8221; They would often carry things up to the zinc roof of our
+quarters, drop them, and then take after with rush and clatter, the snake in full chase. Mice abound, and lizards are everywhere,
+of every shape, every size, and every color.
+
+</p>
+<p>I spent a large part of my time leaning out of my window; there was so much to see. The expulsion of the insurrectos had just
+been effected, and very few of the natives remained, but as soon as they were thoroughly convinced that our troops had actually
+taken the town, they flocked in by the hundreds, the men nearly naked, always barefoot, the women in their characteristic
+bright red skirts.
+
+</p>
+<p>The entire time spent there was full of surprises, the customs, dress, food, and religious ceremonies continually furnishing
+matter of intense and varied interest. I noticed, especially, how little the men and women went about together, riding or
+walking, or to church. Neither <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb66" href="#pb66">66</a>]</span>do they sit together, or rather should say &#8220;squat,&#8221; for, even in the fine churches, the women squatted in the center aisles,
+while the men were ranged in side aisles. There are few pews, and these few, rarely occupied, were straight and uncomfortable.
+No effort was ever made to make them comfortable, not to mention ornamental.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o138.gif" alt="Ornament." width="418" height="100"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb67" href="#pb67">67</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch9" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">The Natives.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Nine.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he natives are, as a rule, small, with a yellowish brown skin; noses not large, lips not thick, but teeth very poor. Many
+of them have cleft palate or harelip, straight hair very black, and heads rather flattened on top. I examined many skulls
+and found the occiput and first cervical ankylosed. It occurred to me it might be on account of the burdens they carry upon
+their heads in order to leave their arms free to carry a child on the hips, to tuck in a skirt, or care for the cigars.
+
+</p>
+<p>The Filipino skirt is a wonder. It is made by sewing together the ends of a straight piece of cloth about three yards long.
+To hold it in place on the body, a plait is laid in the top edge at the right, and a tuck at the left, and there it stays&#8212;till
+it loosens. One often sees them stop to give the right or left a twist. The fullness in the front is absolutely essential
+for them to squat as they are so accustomed to do while performing all sorts of work, such as washing, ironing, or, in the
+market place, selling all conceivable kinds of wares. The waist for the rich <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb68" href="#pb68">68</a>]</span>and poor alike is of one pattern, the only variation being in the quality. It has a plain piece loose at the waist line for
+the body, a round hole for the rather low neck, the sleeves straight and extending to the wrist, about three-fourths of a
+yard wide. These sleeves are gathered on the shoulder to fit the individual. A square handkerchief folded three times in the
+center is placed round the neck and completes the costume. As fast as riches are amassed, trains are assumed. All clothing
+is starched with rice and stands out rigidly.
+
+</p>
+<p>The materials are largely woven by the people themselves, and the finer fabrics are beautiful in texture and fineness, some
+of the strands being so fine that several are used to make one thread. By weaving one whole day from dawn to dark, only a
+quarter of a yard of material is produced. The looms, the cost of which is about fifty cents, are all made by hand from bamboo;
+the reels and bobbins, which complete the outfit, raise the value of the whole to about a dollar. There is rarely a house
+that does not keep from one to a dozen looms. The jusi, made from the jusi that comes in the thread from China, is colored
+to suit the fancy of the individual, but is not extensively used by the natives, who usually prefer the abuka, pi&ntilde;a, or sinamay,
+which are products of the abuka tree, or pineapple fibre. The quality of these depends on the fineness of the threads. It
+is very delicate, yet durable, and&#8212;what is most essential&#8212;can be washed.
+
+</p>
+<p>The common natives seem to have no fixed hours for their meals, nor do they have any idea of gathering around the family board.
+After they began to use knives and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb69" href="#pb69">69</a>]</span>forks one woman said she would rather not use her knife, it cut her mouth so. Even the best of them prefer to squat on the
+floor, make a little round ball of half cooked rice with the tips of their fingers and throw it into the mouth.
+
+</p>
+<p>My next door neighbor was considered one of the better class of citizens, and through my window I could not help, in the two
+years of my stay, seeing much of the working part of her household. There were pigs, chickens, ducks, and turkeys, either
+running freely about the kitchen or tied by the leg to the kitchen stove. The floors of these kitchens are never tight; they
+allow the greater part of the accumulated filth of all these animals to sift through to the ground below. There were about
+fifteen in the family; this meant fifteen or twenty servants, but as there are few so poor in the islands as to be unable
+to command a poorer still, these chief servants had a crowd of underlings responsible to themselves alone. The head cook had
+a wife, two children and two servants that got into their quarters by crawling up an old ladder. I climbed up one day to see
+how much space they had. I put my head in at the the opening that served them for door and window, but could not get my shoulders
+in. The whole garret was about eight feet long and six feet wide. One end of it was partitioned off for their fighting cocks.
+
+</p>
+<p>All the time I was there this family of the cook occupied that loft, and the two youngest ones squalled night and day, one
+or other, or both of them. There was not a single thing in that miserable hole for those naked children to lie on or to sit
+on. The screams or the wails of <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb70" href="#pb70">70</a>]</span>the wretched babies, the fighting of the rats under foot, the thud of the bullets at one&#8217;s head, the constant fear of being
+burned out,&#8212;these things are not conducive to peaceful slumbers, but to frightful dreams, to nightmare, to hasty wakenings
+from uneasy sleep.
+
+</p>
+<p>As soon as there is the slightest streak of dawn, the natives begin to work and clatter and chatter. No time is lost bathing
+or dressing. They wear to bed, or rather to floor or mat, the little that they have worn through the day, and rise and go
+to work next day without change of clothing. It never occurs to them to wash their hands except when they go to the well,
+once a day perhaps. While at the well they will pour water from a cocoanut shell held above the head and let it run down over
+the body, never using soap or towels. They rub their bodies sometimes with a stone. It does not matter which way you turn
+you see hundreds of natives at their toilet. One does not mind them more than the <span class="corr" id="xd0e1099" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> in some muddy pond, and one is just about as cleanly as the other. They make little noise going to and fro, all being barefoot;
+but it was not long until I learned to know whether there were three, fifty, or one hundred passing by the swish of their
+bare feet.
+
+</p>
+<p>The fathers seem to lavish more affection on the children than the mothers, and no wonder. Even President Roosevelt would
+be satisfied with the size of families that vary from fifteen to thirty. They do not seem to make any great ado if one or
+more die. Such little bits of humanity, such wasted corpses; it hardly seems that the shrunken form could ever have breathed,
+it looks so little <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb71" href="#pb71">71</a>]</span>and pinched and starved. There was a pair of twins, a boy and a girl, which were said to be twenty-five years old, that were
+the most hideous looking things I ever saw. They were two feet high, with huge heads out of all proportion to their bodies.
+They used to go about the streets begging and giving concerts to get money. I understand that they are now somewhere in America.
+
+</p>
+<p>I became very much interested in a man with only one leg. I wanted to get him a wooden mate for it, but he said he didn&#8217;t
+want it; that he could get around faster with one leg, and he certainly could take longer leaps than any two legged creature.
+Even when talking he never sat down. He had admirable control of his muscles. A little above the average height, his one leggedness
+made him seem over six feet.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was out of the question to take the census of any town or province, because of the shifting population. It is nothing for
+a family to move many times in the course of the year; they can make thirty or forty miles a day. They have absolutely nothing
+to move unless it might be the family cooking &#8220;<span class="corr" id="xd0e1110" title="Source: sowsow">sow-sow</span>&#8221; pot, which is hung over the shoulder on a string, or carried on top of the head. I used often to see a family straggling
+along with anywhere from ten to twenty children, seemingly all of a size, going to locate at some other place. One family
+came to Jaro the night before market day. They had about six dozen of eggs. I said I would buy all of them; the woman cried
+and said she was sorry, as she would have nothing to sell in the market place the next day. At night the whole family cuddled
+down in a corner of the stable and slept.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb72" href="#pb72">72</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The native cook we employed proved to be a good one, and was willing to learn American ways of cooking. We did not know he
+had a family. One morning while attending to my duties there appeared a woman about five feet tall, with one shoulder about
+four inches higher than the other, one hip dislocated, one eye crossed, a harelip, which made the teeth part in the middle,
+mouth and lips stained blood red with betel juice, clothes&#8212;a rag or two. I screamed at her to run away, which she did instantly.
+I supposed she was some tramp who wanted to get a look at a white woman. She proved to be the wife of our cook, and after
+I had become accustomed to her dreadful looks, she became invaluable to me. Hardly anyone would have recognized her the day
+that she accompanied me to the dock. The little money that she had earned she had immediately put into an embroidered waist
+and long black satin train; and as I bade her good-bye she left an impression quite different from the first, and I am sure
+that the tears she shed were not of the crocodile kind.
+
+</p>
+<p>The first native, Anastasio Alingas, whom we employed proved to be the very worst we could have found. He not only stole from
+us right before my eyes, but right before the eyes of our large household. He took the captain&#8217;s pistol, holster, and ammunition.
+We could not have been more than five or ten feet from him at the time, for it was the rule then to have our fire-arms handy.
+
+</p>
+<p>With an air of innocence, child-like and bland, he diverted suspicion to our laundry man and allowed him to be taken to prison.
+It was only after being arrested himself that he confessed and restored the revolver. He <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb73" href="#pb73">73</a>]</span>was allowed to go on the promise that he would never come any nearer than twenty miles to Jaro. He had been systematically
+lying and stealing. He used to come with tears streaming down his face and say that some man had stolen market money intrusted
+to him. He plundered the store-room, though it was hard to tell which stole the most, he or the wild monkeys that were about
+the house. He had pretended to be eager to learn, and had been so tractable that we were greatly disappointed to have him
+turn out such a bad boy. We found this true of every man that we tried, and most strongly true of the ones who pretended to
+be the best.
+
+</p>
+<p>All the servants, all the natives, prized highly our tin cans from the commissary, as we emptied them. They used to come miles
+for them. Cocoanut shells and hollow bamboo stalks are the common vessels. A few old cans furnished a valuable ten cent store.
+The variety of uses to which these cans were turned was remarkable.
+
+</p>
+<p>None of the so-called better class work at anything. They all carry huge bundles of keys at their side, and in most stentorian
+voice call out many times during the day &#8220;machacha&#8221; to a servant, who is to perform some very small service which her mistress
+could easily have done herself without any effort, and these lazy machachas saunter about in the most deliberate manner and
+do whatever they are asked to do in the most ungracious way. These so-called ladies beat their servants. I often interfered
+by pounding with a stick on the side of my window to attract their attention; that was all that was necessary. They were ashamed
+to have me see them. One time in <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb74" href="#pb74">74</a>]</span>particular, a woman took a big paddle, such as they use for pounding their clothes, and hit a small, sick looking creature
+again and again on the bare shoulders. What the offense was I do not know, but certainly the beating was such as I have never
+seen administered to anything.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p074" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p074.jpg" alt="Presidente of Arevalo, Island Panay, Trotting Bull and Quielas." width="720" height="506"><p class="figureHead">Presidente of Arevalo, Island Panay, Trotting Bull and Quielas.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The servants always walk about three feet behind the mistresses and carry their parcels, but they seldom walk, however, for
+they ride even when the distance is short. The grand dames affect a great deal of modesty and delicacy of feeling. On a certain
+occasion they sent word to the commanding general that it would be a serious shock to their feelings to have the execution
+of a criminal take place in the center of the town. The gallows were erected in the suburbs. Immediately all the natives were
+set to work to make hiding places where these sensitive ladies, unseen, could witness the execution. From early dawn until
+<span class="corr" id="xd0e1135" title="Source: at "></span>9 <span class="smallcaps">A. M.</span> carriages were carrying these delicate creatures to their secret stations. Not one of them in the whole village of Jaro but
+was on the watch. They supposed, of course, that I would be so interested that I would take a prominent part; that executions
+were common festivals in the United States.
+
+</p>
+<p>The criminal himself had no idea that his sentence would be enforced, even up to the last moment he took it as a huge joke,
+and when he was taken to the general said he would like to be excused, and offered to implicate others who were more guilty
+than himself.
+
+</p>
+<p>Many questions were asked me concerning our methods of execution, and great was the surprise when I confessed that I had never
+seen one myself, nor did I ever expect <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb75" href="#pb75">75</a>]</span>to see one; that my countrywomen would be horrified to witness such a sight; and that on the present occasion I had gone to
+the adjoining town six miles away to escape it all. I was shown several pictures of the victim taken by a Chinese artist.
+
+</p>
+<p>A man buys at a booth one penny&#8217;s worth of what is known as &#8220;sow-sow&#8221; for himself and family. I have often looked into the
+sow-sow pots, but was never able to make out what was contained therein. The children buy little rice cakes, thin, hard, and
+indigestible as bits of slate. The children&#8217;s stomachs are abnormally large; due, perhaps, to the half-cooked rice and other
+poorly prepared food. When it comes to the choice of caring for the child or the fighting cock, the cock has the preference.
+The bird is carried as fondly and as carefully as if it were a superior creature. It was strange to see how they would carry
+these birds on their palms; nor did they attempt to fly away, but would sit there and crow contentedly.
+
+</p>
+<p>We had at one time five or six carpenters to do some bamboo work. They brought their fighting cocks along with them for amusement
+when they were not at work, which was every moment our backs were turned. They are so used to being driven that it never occurs
+to them to go on with their work unless someone is overseeing them. They began by putting the bamboo at the top of the room
+and working down, braiding, plaiting and splitting, putting in a bit here and there in a very deft way without a nail. They
+did all the cutting sitting down on the floor and holding the smooth bamboo pieces with their feet, while they sawed the various
+lengths with a bolo.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb76" href="#pb76">76</a>]</span></p>
+<p>When they had completed the partition, I said to the foreman, &#8220;How much for the day&#8217;s work for all.&#8221; The head man very politely
+informed me that he did not propose to pay these other men anything; if I wanted to pay them all right, but he would not.
+The defrauded ones got down on their knees to beg for their pay. I called in a priest who could talk some English, and explained
+the situation to him. He told me frankly that I would have to pay these other men just the same, notwithstanding that I had
+paid the foreman the full amount. He said I had better do it, because if I did not the men would bring vengeance upon me.
+They have no idea of justice or honor. What is true of business is true of every act of theirs, as far as I know.
+
+</p>
+<p>An American woman told me that her husband could not attend to his military duties because he had to watch the nine natives
+who came to his house to do work. He had to keep account of their irregular comings and goings, to examine each one that he
+did not steal, to investigate his work that it was not half done. Men and women are alike&#8212;they must be watched every moment,
+because they have been so long watched and driven. If women who are hired and paid by the month break or destroy the least
+thing, its value is taken out of their wages and they are beaten. It was very astonishing to me to see, notwithstanding this
+serfdom, that they remain submissive to the same masters and mistresses.
+
+</p>
+<p>A man was condemned to die by one of the secret societies. His most faithful servant, a member of the order, was chosen to
+execute the sentence. He calmly met <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb77" href="#pb77">77</a>]</span>his master at the door, made a thrust at him and wounded him slightly, struck again, and again; the third blow was fatal.
+The servant was never punished for the crime. It happened just a few doors from where I was living. There was a large funeral
+procession and a huge black cross was placed at the door, and that ended the matter, so far as I know. They place little value
+upon life; they seem to think death is but the gate to great happiness, no matter what its manner may be. I used to see many
+persons, men and women, with crosses on their throats and bodies. I asked ever so many what it meant, but was never able to
+find out. It was never seen upon the so-called better class. Much that I learned of the various tribes and various castes
+was told me by a converted Filipino, Rev. Manakin. He expected any time to be placed under the ban of the secret societies
+and killed.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o162.gif" alt="Ornament." width="299" height="84"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb78" href="#pb78">78</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch10" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Wooings and Weddings.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Ten.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he manner of wooing is rather peculiar. The man who wishes to pay his addresses to a woman gets the consent of her father
+and mother. He is received by the entire family when he calls, but is never allowed, in any way, to show her any special favor
+or attention; he must devote himself to the entire family. If he wishes to take her to a theatre, or concert, or dance, he
+must take the entire family. For about a week before the marriage the bride elect is carried about in a sort of wicker bamboo
+hammock borne on the shoulders of two young men and she goes about paying visits to her intimate friends; she is not allowed
+to put foot to the ground or do any sort of menial labor.
+
+</p>
+<p>Mothers brought their young daughters to me daily to importune me to choose a sweetheart for my son or for any other officer
+who happened to be at our headquarters. I know that one young officer was offered $100,000 to marry the daughter of one of
+the richest men in the town of Molo, and it was a great wonder to <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb79" href="#pb79">79</a>]</span>the father that the young man could refuse so brilliant a match socially, to say nothing of it financially. There happened
+to be a young Englishman in the regular service whose time expired while he was at Jaro. He had been cook and valet for an
+officer&#8217;s mess and was really a very fine fellow. He was immediately chosen by a wealthy Filipino to marry his daughter. The
+young man not only got a wife but a very handsome plantation of sugar and rice; perhaps not the only foreign husband secured
+by a good dowry.
+
+</p>
+<p>The trousseau of a rich Filipino girl consists of dozens and dozens of rich dresses; no other article is of interest. They
+do not need the lingerie. Among the common people it is simply an arrangement between the mother and the groom or it can all
+be arranged with the priest. I have seen as many as fifteen young girls sitting in the market place while their mothers told
+of their various good qualities. Marriage is not a question of affection, seemingly. The only thing necessary is money enough
+to pay the priest. Very often all rites are set aside; the man chooses his companion, the two live together and probably rear
+a large family.
+
+</p>
+<p>I was told that there are two sets of commandments in use&#8212;one for the rich, the other for the poor.
+
+</p>
+<p>I was glad to accept the kind invitation of a rich and influential family to their daughter&#8217;s wedding. At the proper hour,
+I presented myself at the church door and was politely escorted to a seat. There was music. The natives came dressed in their
+best, and squatted upon the floor of the cathedral. After a long time the bride elect <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb80" href="#pb80">80</a>]</span>sauntered in with three or four of her attendants not especially attired, nor did they march in to music but visited along
+the way as they came straggling in. Soon the groom shuffled in, I say shuffled because they have so recently begun to wear
+shoes. The bridal group gathered before the altar and listened to the ritual. Finally the groom took the bride&#8217;s hand for
+one brief moment. A few more words by the priest and the ceremony was ended. To my surprise the bride came up and greeted
+me. I did not understand what I was expected to do but I shook hands and said I hoped she would be very happy. The groom now
+came up and bowing low presented his &#8220;felicitations.&#8221; I returned the bow but could not muster a word. The women straggled
+out on one side of the cathedral and the men on the other. This was considered a first class &#8220;matrimony.&#8221; There was a very
+large reception at the house with a grand ball in the evening; indeed, there were two or three days of festivities.
+
+</p>
+<p>In contrast to this was the wholesale matrimonial bureau which was conducted every Saturday morning. I have seen as many as
+ten couples married all at once. I never knew which man was married to which woman, as the men stood grouped on one side of
+the priest and the women on the other. I asked one groom, &#8220;Which is your wife?&#8221; He scanned the crowd of brides a moment then
+said comfortably, &#8220;Oh, she is around somewhere.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>I used to go to the cathedral on Saturdays to see the various ceremonies. The most interesting of all <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb81" href="#pb81">81</a>]</span>the cheap baptisms at which all the little babies born during the week were baptized for ten cents. These pitiable little
+creatures, deformed and shrunken, were too weak to wail, or, perhaps they were too stupified with narcotics. A large candle
+was put into each little bird-claw, the nurse or mother holding it in place above the passive body covered only with a scrap
+of gauze but decked out with paper flowers, huge pieces of jewelry, odd trinkets, anything they had&#8212;all dirty, mother, child,
+ornaments; the onlookers still more dirty. The priest whom I knew very well, since he lived just across the way, told me that
+few of these cheap babies live long. I am sure they could not; not one of them would weigh five pounds. They were all emaciated;
+death would be a mercy. There was a little fellow next door to whom I was very much attached. The dear little naked child
+would stay with me by the day if I would have him; he was four years old but no larger than an American baby of four months.
+I used to long for a rocking chair that I might sing him to sleep but he had no idea of sleeping when he was with me. His
+great brown eyes would look into my face with an intensity of love; he would gaze at me till I feared that he was something
+uncanny. If I gave him a lump of sugar, he would hold it reverently a long time before he would presume to eat it. Every day
+he and other little devoted natives would bring me bouquets of flowers, stuck on the spikes of a palm or on tooth picks. No
+well regulated house but has bundles of tooth picks arranged in fancy shapes such as fans and flowers. All their sideboards
+and <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb82" href="#pb82">82</a>]</span>tables have huge bouquets of these wonderfully wrought and gayly ornamental tooth picks.
+
+</p>
+<p>They carve with skill; out of a bit of wood or bamboo they will whittle a book, so pretty as to be worth four or five dollars.
+
+</p>
+<p>One day I made a woman understand by signs that I should like to weave; she nodded approval and in a little while a loom was
+brought to the house; we went over to the market, purchased our fiber and began. I found it a difficult task, as I had to
+sit in a cramped position; and the slippery treadles of round bamboo polished by use were hard to manage. I did better without
+shoes. The weaving was a diversion; it occupied my time when the soldiers were out of the quarters. I will not deny that yards
+of the fabric were watered with my tears. There was dangerous and exhausting work for our troops; and there were bad reports
+that many were mutilated and killed.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o151.gif" alt="Ornament." width="202" height="105"></div><p>
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb83" href="#pb83">83</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch11" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">My First Fourth in the Philippines.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Eleven.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">I</span> can not tell what joy it was to me to see my son and the members of the troop come riding into town alive and well after
+a hard campaign. They looked as if they had seen service, and what huge appetites they brought with them. On the third of
+July, 1900, I heard that the boys were coming back on the Fourth. Learning that there was nothing for their next day&#8217;s rations
+I decided to prepare a good old-fashioned dinner myself. All night long I baked and boiled and prepared that meal; eighty-three
+pumpkin pies, fifty-two chickens, three hams, forty cakes, ginger-bread, &#8217;lasses candy, pickles, cheese, coffee, and cigars.
+Having purchased from a Chinese some fire crackers&#8212;as soon as there was a streak of dawn&#8212;I went to my window and lighted those
+crackers. It was such a surprise to the entire town; they came to see what could be the matter, as no firing was permitted
+in the city. We began our first Fourth in true American style, as the &#8220;Old Glory&#8221; was being raised we sang &#8220;Star Spangled
+Banner.&#8221; Many joined <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb84" href="#pb84">84</a>]</span>in the chorus and in the Hip! Hip! Hurrah! I keep in a small frame the grateful acknowledgment of the entire Company that
+was given to me from the Gordon Scouts:
+
+
+</p>
+<div class="blockquote">
+<p><span class="smallcaps">Jaro, Panay</span>, P. I., July 4th, 1900.<br>
+To <span class="smallcaps">Mrs. A. L. Conger</span>:
+
+
+</p>
+<p>We, the undersigned, members of Gordon&#8217;s Detachment, of Mounted Eighteenth Infantry Scouts, desire, in behalf of the entire
+troop, to express our thanks for and appreciation of the excellent dinner prepared and furnished us by Mrs. A. L. Conger,
+July 4th, 1900. It was especially acceptable coming as it did immediately after return from arduous field service against
+Filipino insurrectos and, being prepared and tendered us by one of our own brave and kind American women, it was doubly so.
+
+</p>
+<p>It is the earnest wish of the detachment that Mrs. Conger may never know less pleasure than was afforded us by such a noble
+example of patriotic American womanhood.
+
+
+</p>
+<p>Respectfully,
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p084.gif" alt="Signatures." width="501" height="282"></div><p>
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb85" href="#pb85">85</a>]</span></p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p085.gif" alt="Signatures." width="490" height="507"></div><p>
+</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>I prepared other dinners at various times, but this first spread was to them and to myself a very great pleasure.
+
+</p>
+<p>Letters from home were full of surprise that we still stayed though the war was over&#8212;the newspapers said it was. For us the
+anxiety and struggle still went on. To be sure there were no pitched battles but the skirmishing was constant; new outbreaks
+of violence and cruelty were daily occurring, entailing upon our men harassing watch and chase. The insurrectos were butchers
+to their own people. Captain N. told me that he hired seven native men to do some work around the barracks <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb86" href="#pb86">86</a>]</span>up in the country and paid them in American money, good generous wages. They carried the money to their leader who was so
+indignant that they had worked for the Americans that he ordered them to dig their graves and, with his own hands, cut, mutilated,
+and killed six of them. The seventh survived. Bleeding and almost lifeless, he crawled back to the American quarters and told
+his story. The captain took a guide and a detail, found the place described, exhumed the bodies and verified every detail
+of the inhuman deed.
+
+</p>
+<p>They committed many bloody deeds, then swiftly drew back to the swamps and thickets impenetrable to our men. The very day,
+the hour, that the Peace Commissioner, Governor Taft, Judge Wright and others to the number of thirty were enjoying an elegantly
+prepared repast at Jaro there was, within six miles, a spirited conflict going on, our boys trying to capture the most blood-thirsty
+<span class="corr" id="xd0e1246" title="Source: villians">villains</span> of the islands. This gang had hitherto escaped by keeping near the shore and the impenetrable swamps of the manglares. No
+foot but a Filipino&#8217;s can tread these jungles. When driven into the very closest quarters, they take to their boats, and slip
+away to some nearby island.
+
+</p>
+<p>I hope that my son and his men will pardon me for telling that they rushed into some fortifications that they saw on one of
+their perilous marches and with a sudden fusillade captured the stronghold. The Filipinos had a company of cavalry, one of
+infantry, one of bolo men, and reserves. The insurrecto captain told me himself that he never was so surprised, mortified,
+and grieved <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb87" href="#pb87">87</a>]</span>that such a thing could have been done. They thought there was a large army back of this handful of men, eleven in all. General
+R. P. Hughes sent the following telegram to my son, and his brave scouts: &#8220;To Lieutenant Conger, June 14, 1900, Iloilo. I
+congratulate you and your scouts on your great success. No action of equal dash and gallantry has come under my notice in
+the Philippines.&#8221; (Signed) R. P. Hughes.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p087" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p087.jpg" alt="Surrender of General Delgardo and Army. February 2, 1901." width="720" height="480"><p class="figureHead">Surrender of General Delgardo and Army. February 2, 1901.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>All this time there were negotiations going on to secure surrender and the oath of allegiance. Those who vowed submission
+did not consider it at all binding.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p088" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p088.jpg" alt="Cathedral at Oton." width="720" height="506"><p class="figureHead">Cathedral at Oton.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>General Del Gardo surrendered with protestations of loyalty and has honored his word ever since; he is now Governor of the
+Island of Panay (pan-i). He is very gentlemanly in appearance and bearing and has assumed the duties of his new office with
+much dignity. Just recently I learn, to my surprise, that he does not recognize the authority of the &#8220;Presidente&#8221; of the town
+of Oton, who was appointed before the surrender of General Del Gardo, and that therefore the very fine flag raising we had
+on the Fourth of July, 1900, is not considered legal. We had a famous day of it at the time. All the soldiers who could be
+spared marched to Oton. There was a company of artillery, some cavalry, and the scouts. From other islands, Americans and
+our sick soldiers were brought by steamer as near as possible and then landed in small boats. We were somewhat delayed in
+arriving but were greeted in a most friendly manner by the whole town. We were escorted up to the house of the Presidente
+and were immediately served with refreshments <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb88" href="#pb88">88</a>]</span>that were most lavish in quantity, color, shape and kind; too numerous in variety to taste, and too impossible of taste to
+partake. After the parade, came the running up of the flag, made by the women of the town. The shouting and the cheering vied
+with the band playing &#8220;America,&#8221; &#8220;Hail Columbia,&#8221; and the &#8220;Star Spangled Banner.&#8221; It was indeed an American day celebrated
+in loyal fashion&#8212;certainly by the Americans. It was the very first flag raising in the Islands by the Filipinos themselves.
+It is with regret that I hear that General Del Gardo has refused officially to recognize this historic occasion. After these
+ceremonies we had the banquet. I do not recall any dish that was at all like our food except small quail, the size of our
+robins. Where and how they captured all the birds that were served to that immense crowd and how they ever prepared the innumerable
+kinds of refreshments no one will ever know but themselves. We were all objects of curiosity. The natives for miles around
+flocked in to gaze upon the Americans. At this place there is one of the finest cathedrals on the Island of Panay, large enough
+for a whole regiment of soldiers to quarter in, as once happened during a very severe storm. The reredos was especially fine.
+It was in the center of the cathedral and was almost wholly constructed of hammered silver of very intricate pattern and design.
+Nave, choir, and transepts were ornamented with exquisite carving in stone and wood.
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb89" href="#pb89">89</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch12" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Flowers, Fruits and Berries.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twelve.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-f.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-f.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">F</span>ruits are of many <span class="corr" id="xd0e1277" title="Source: varities">varieties</span>; the most luscious are the mangoes. There is only one crop a year; the season lasts from April to July. It is a long, kidney-shaped
+fruit. It seems to me most delicious, but some do not like it at all. The flavor has the richness and sweetness of every fruit
+that one can think of. They disagree with some persons and give rise to a heat rash. For their sweet sake, I took chances
+and ended by making a business of eating and taking the consequences. The mango tree has fine green satin leaves; the fruit
+is not allowed to ripen on the tree. The natives pick mangoes as we pick choice pears and let them ripen before eating. They
+handle them just as carefully, and place them in baskets that hold just one layer. The best mangoes are sometimes fifty cents
+a piece. The fruit that stands next in favor is the chico. It looks not unlike a russet apple on the outside, but the inside
+has, when ripe, a brown meat and four or five black seeds quite like watermelon seeds. It is rich and can be eaten with impunity.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p089" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p089.jpg" alt="Interior of Cathedral at Oton." width="720" height="505"><p class="figureHead">Interior of Cathedral at Oton.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The banana grows everywhere, and its varieties are <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb90" href="#pb90">90</a>]</span>as numerous as those of our apple; its colors, its sizes, manifold. Some about the size of one&#8217;s finger are deliciously sweet
+and juicy. They grow seemingly without any cultivation whatever, by the road as freely as in the gardens. Guavas are plentiful,
+oranges abundant but poor in quality. The pomelo is like our &#8220;grape fruit,&#8221; but larger, less bitter and less juicy. Cut into
+squares or sections and served with a sauce of white of egg and sugar beaten together it is a delicious dish.
+
+</p>
+<p>There are no strawberries or raspberries, but many kinds of small fruits, none of which I considered at all palatable, although
+some of them looked delicious hanging upon the trees or bushes. There is a small green kind of cherry full of tiny seeds that
+the natives prize and enjoy. The fruits of one island are common to all.
+
+</p>
+<p>The flora of the country was not seen at its best; many of the natives told me. Trees, shrubs, gardens and plantations had
+been trampled by both armies and left to perish. Our government took up the work of restoration as soon as possible. The few
+roses that I saw were not of a particularly good quality, nor did they have any fragrance. No one can ever know what joy thrilled
+me when one day I found some old fashioned four o&#8217;clocks growing in the church yard. The natives do not care to use the natural
+flowers in the graceful sprays or luxuriant clusters in which they grow. They usually stick them on the sharp spikes of some
+small palm or wind them on a little stick to make a cone or set the spikelets side by side in a flat block. They much prefer
+artificial stiffness to natural grace. In the hundreds of funeral <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb91" href="#pb91">91</a>]</span>ceremonies that I saw I never noticed the use of a single natural blossom. The flowers were all artificial, of silk, paper,
+or tissue. One reason, perhaps, of this choice is that all vegetation is infested with ants; they can scarcely be seen, but,
+oh, they can be felt! The first time I was out driving I begged the guard to gather me huge bunches of most exquisite blooms
+but I was soon eager to throw them all out; the ants swarmed upon me and drove me nearly frantic. I learned to shun my own
+garden paths and to content myself with looking out of the window on the plants below. There are many birds but no songsters.
+
+</p>
+<p>The betel nut is about the size of a walnut. The kernel is white like the cocoanut. They wrap a bit of this kernel with a
+pinch of air-slacked lime in a pepper leaf, then chew, chew, all day, and in intervals of chewing they spray the vividly colored
+saliva on door-step, pavement and church floor.
+
+</p>
+<p>I often watched the natives climb the tall cocoanut trees, about eighty feet high, with only the fine fern-like leaves at
+the extreme top. These trees yield twenty to fifty cocoanuts per month and live to a great age. No one can have any idea of
+the delicious milk until he has drunk it fresh from the recently gathered nuts. A young native will climb as nimbly and as
+swiftly as a monkey, and will be as unfettered by dress as his Darwinian brother. The fruit is severed from the tree by the
+useful bolo.
+
+</p>
+<p>The flowers in the parks when I saw them had all been trampled into the mud by the soldiers of both <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb92" href="#pb92">92</a>]</span>armies, but I was told that they had been very beautiful. There were also large trees, bearing huge clusters of blooms; one
+bunch had seventy-five blossoms, each as large as a fair sized nasturtium. These are called Fire or Fever Trees, since they
+have the appearance of being on fire and bloom in the hot season when fever is most prevalent. Other trees whose name I do
+not recall bear equally large clusters of purple flowers. The palms are large and grow in great luxuriance, and the double
+hibiscus look like large pinks.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o151.gif" alt="Ornament." width="202" height="105"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb93" href="#pb93">93</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch13" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">The Markets.</h2>
+<h2 class="normal">Chapter Thirteen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he market day is the great day of every town. A certain part of every village is prepared with booths and stalls to display
+wares of endless variety. We all looked forward to market day. There were mats of various sizes,&#8212;mats are used for everything.
+There are some so skillfully woven that they are handsome ornaments, worth as much as a good rug. There were hats woven out
+of the most delicately shredded fibers, the best costing from twelve to twenty dollars in gold, very durable and very beautiful.
+The best ones can be woven only in a damp place, as the fiber must be kept moist while being handled. There were fish nets
+of abaka differing in mesh to suit the various kinds of fish. The cloths were hung on lines to show their texture. We had
+to pick our way amongst the stalls and through or over the natives seated on the ground. I have seen a space of two acres
+covered with hundreds of natives, <span class="corr" id="xd0e1316" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span>, trotting bulls, chickens, turkeys, ducks, fine goods, vegetables, and fruits all in one mass; and I had to keep <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb94" href="#pb94">94</a>]</span>a good lookout where I stepped and what I ran into. It was not necessary to go often for they were more than willing to bring
+all their wares to the house if they had any prospects of a sale. I have had as many as thirty natives troop into the house
+at one time. They finally became so obnoxious that I forbade them coming at all.
+
+</p>
+<p>The silence of these crowds was noticeable. They were keenly alive to business and did not laugh and joke or even talk in
+reasonable measure. As a race they are solemn even in their looks, and no wonder, such is their degradation, misery, and despair.
+They have so little sympathy and care for each other, so little comfort, and so neglected and hopeless, so sunken beneath
+the so-called better class that when a little mission gospel was started one could hardly refrain from tears to see the joy
+that they had in accepting the free gospel. It was no trouble for them to walk thirty or forty miles to get what they called
+cheap religion. They were outcasts from society and too poor to pay the tithes that were imposed upon them by the priests
+in their various parishes, for no matter how small a village was there was the very elegant cathedral in the center of the
+town which only the rich and those who were able to pay were entitled to enter.
+
+</p>
+<p>The poor blind people wandered from village to village in groups of two to twenty. Quite a number of the moderately insane
+would go about begging, too, but the worst were chained to trees or put in stocks and their food thrown at them. Even the
+dumb brutes were not so poorly cared for.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb95" href="#pb95">95</a>]</span></p>
+<p>The houses of the rich, while not cleanly and not well furnished, always have one large room in which stands a ring of chairs
+with a rug in the center of the floor and a cuspidor by each seat. You are ushered in and seated in one of these low square
+chairs, usually cane seated. After the courtesies of the day and the hostess&#8217;s comments on the fineness of your clothing,
+refreshments are brought in,&#8212;cigars, cigarettes, wine, cake, and preserved cocoanut. Sometimes American beer is added as possibly
+more acceptable than the wine.
+
+</p>
+<p>The citizens of Jaro seemed to be friendly, they often invited me to their festivities; committees would wait upon me, presenting
+me sometimes invitations engraved upon silver with every appearance of cordiality in expression and manner. They could not
+understand why I would not accept; I would explain, that first, I had no desire; second, I thought it poor policy to do so
+when our soldiers were obliged to fight their soldiers, and they were furnishing the money to carry on the warfare; then too,
+most of their balls were given on Sunday night. True, a Filipino Sunday never seemed Sunday to me. I could only say, foolishly
+enough, &#8220;But it is not Sunday at home.&#8221; I could not attend their parties and I had little heart to dance. I had only to go
+to the window to see their various functions; it could hardly be called merry as they went at it in such a listless, lazy
+way, with apparently little enjoyment, the air that they carry into all their pleasures.
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb96" href="#pb96">96</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch14" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Philippine Agriculture.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Fourteen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">I</span>t has been said that the prosperity of any nation depends largely upon its agriculture. The soil in the Philippines is very
+rich. The chief product, which the natives spend the most time upon, is rice; and even that is grown, one almost might say,
+without any care, especially after seeing the way the Japanese till their rice. They sow the rice broadcast in little square
+places of about half an acre which is partly filled with water. When this has grown eight or ten inches high they transplant
+it into other patches which have been previously scratched over with a rude one-handled plow that often has for a point only
+a piece of an old tin can or a straggly root, and into this prepared bit of land they open the dyke and let in the water;
+that is all that is necessary until the harvesting. They have a great pest, the langousta or grasshopper, and they are obliged,
+when these insects fly over a section of the country, to scare them away by any means in their power, which is usually by
+running about through the rice fields waving a red rag.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb97" href="#pb97">97</a>]</span></p>
+<p>As I have said before they gather these pests and eat them. I have seen bushels of fried langousta for sale in the markets.
+When they gather the rice harvest, it is carried to some nearby store room, usually in the lower part of the house in which
+they live. Then comes the threshing, which is done with old-fashioned mills, by pounding with a wooden mallet, or by rubbing
+between two large pieces of wood. Then they winnow it, holding it up by the peck or half bushel to let the wind blow the hulls
+off, and dry it by placing it on mats of woven bamboo. I saw tons of rice prepared in this way by the side of the road near
+where I lived. This being their staple, the food for man and beast, one can form some idea of the vast quantities that are
+needed. There was a famine while I was there and the U. S. government was obliged to supply the natives with rice for seed
+and food.
+
+</p>
+<p>There is no grass grown except a sort of swamp grass. The rice cut when it is green is used in the place of grass. It is never
+dried, as it grows the year round. One can look out any day and see rows of small bundles of this rice paddy laid by the road
+side for sale or carried by the natives on bamboo poles, a bundle before and one behind to balance. It was astonishing to
+see these small men and boys struggling under the weight of their &#8220;loads of hay.&#8221; None of the American horses cared for it;
+their hay and grain had to be stacked up along the wharf and guarded. It would be of little use, however, to the natives as
+they know nothing about the use of our products.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb98" href="#pb98">98</a>]</span></p>
+<p>If there was any wheat grown in the islands, we never heard of it, and judging from the way in which flour was sold in their
+markets at ten cents for a small cornucopia that would hold about a gill, it was probably brought from either Australia or
+America.
+
+</p>
+<p>They have a camote, something like a sweet potato. Although it is watery and stringy it does very well and is called a good
+vegetable. They raise inferior tomatoes and very inferior garlic. It was a matter of great curiosity to the natives to see
+an American plow that was placed on exhibition at the British store. I am sure when they can take some of our good agricultural
+implements and turn the rich soil over and work it, even in a poor way, the results will be beyond anything we could produce
+here in the United States.
+
+</p>
+<p>Their cane sugar is of fine quality, almost equal to our maple sugar. They plant the seed in a careless way and tend it in
+the most slovenly manner imaginable, and yet, they get immense crops. One man, who put in a crop near where some soldiers
+were encamped in order to have their protection, told us that he sold the product from this small stretch of ground of not
+more than five or six acres for ten thousand dollars.
+
+</p>
+<p>The natives so disliked to work that nearly every one who employed men kept for them a gaming table and the inevitable fighting
+cocks; as long as they can earn a little money to gamble that is all they care for; houses, lands, and families are not considered.
+Nearly all the sugar mills had been burned in our neighborhood, but I know from the way they do everything else that they
+must <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb99" href="#pb99">99</a>]</span>have used the very crudest kind of boiling apparatus. The sugar seemed reasonably clean to look at, but when boiled the sediment
+was anything but clean. With our evaporating machines and with care to get the most out of the crop, the profit will be enormous.
+Often we would buy the cane in the markets, peel off the outside and chew the pith to get the sweet juice.
+
+</p>
+<p>They raise vast quantities of cocoa, as indifferently cared for as everything else, also a small flat bean, but it has a bitter
+taste.
+
+</p>
+<p>The largest crop of all is the hemp crop which grows, seemingly, without any cultivation. This hemp when growing looks something
+like the banana tree. They cut it down and divide it into lengths as long as possible and then prepare the wood or fiber by
+shaving it on iron teeth.
+
+</p>
+<p>They are expert in this industry, in making it fine and in tying it, often times, in lengths of not more than two or three
+inches. They give a very dextrous turn of the hand and the finest of these threads are used in some of the fabrics which they
+weave. I often wondered how they could prepare these delicate, strong, linen-like threads that are as fine as gossamer.
+
+</p>
+<p>A man who had cotton mills in Massachusetts visited places where the hemp is prepared and the looms where it is woven. He
+said he had never known anything so wonderful as the deft manner in which these people worked out the little skeins from an
+intricate mass of tangled webs.
+
+</p>
+<p>One of the curiosities of the world&#8217;s fair at St. Louis will be this tying and weaving of hemp. Then a still <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb100" href="#pb100">100</a>]</span>greater curiosity will be the making of pine-apple fiber. This manufacture has been sadly neglected and crippled by the war
+and its devastations. They have learned to mix in other fibers because of the scarcity of the pine-apple. I did not see this
+prepared at all; only secured with difficulty some of the good cloth. It is considered by the natives their very best and
+finest fabric. They spend much time on its embroidery and their exquisite work astonishes the finest lace makers.
+
+</p>
+<p>The field corn which I saw was of such an inferior grade that it never occurred to me to try it; indeed, they do not bring
+it to market until it is out of the milk.
+
+</p>
+<p>On my return home I planted a few kernels as an experiment. There never was a more insignificant looking stalk of corn in
+our garden. With misgivings we made trial of the scrubby looking ears. To our surprise it was the best we ever had on our
+table. It seemed too good to be true. I gave several messes to my friends and this year am hoping to give pleasure to many
+others. I denied myself the delicious product that many might have seed for this spring.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o100.gif" alt="Ornament." width="138" height="51"></div><p>
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb101" href="#pb101">101</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch15" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Minerals.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Fifteen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-g.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-g.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">G</span>old is found in every stream of the islands. In small bottles I saw many little nuggets which the natives had picked up. Whether
+it would pay to use good machinery to extract he gold I cannot tell; but certain it is that they use a great deal of gold
+in the curiously wrought articles of jewelry of which they are all passionately fond.
+
+</p>
+<p>A man who was greatly interested in the mines of Klondike said that there were better chances of getting gold in the Philippines
+and that he had given up all his northern claims and was now using his energies to secure leases in the new territory. Other
+minerals, too, he said, are abundant and valuable.
+
+</p>
+<p>I had a small brass dagger which I used to carry for defense and, upon showing it to some of my friends, since my return,
+I was asked if I saw this dagger made, because if I knew the secret of its annealing it would be worth a fortune to me.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb102" href="#pb102">102</a>]</span></p>
+<p>I had missed a golden chance for I had often visited a rude foundry where they made bolos and other articles, but it did not
+occur to me that there could be anything of value to expert workmen at home in these crude hand processes.
+
+</p>
+<p>The soldiers that accompanied me, as well as I myself, went into convulsions of laughter over the shape of their bellows and
+the working of their forge. Everything they do seemed to us to be done in the most awkward manner; it is done backward if
+possible. The first time I saw a carriage hitched before the animal I wondered how they could ever manage it.
+
+</p>
+<p>Bolos are of all sizes and shapes and are made of steel or iron to suit the fancy of the person. Some are of the size and
+pattern of an old-fashioned corn cutter, handles of carved wood or <span class="corr" id="xd0e1394" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> horn; sometimes made with a fork-like tip and waved with saw teeth edge. It is an indispensable tool in war and peace. There
+were none so poor as not to have a bolo. They made cannon, too, and guns patterned after our American ones. And sometimes
+cannon were made out of bamboo, bound around with bands of iron. These were formidable and could shoot with as much noise
+as a brass one, if not with as much accuracy.
+
+</p>
+<p>They must get a great deal of silver, as they have so many silver articles; they insert bits of silver in the handles of bolos.
+These bolos are used for everything. One day I found that the little tin oven which I brought from home was all worn out on
+the inside. I was in despair for there was no way of getting it repaired, My <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb103" href="#pb103">103</a>]</span>native cook watched me as I looked at it sorrowfully. Without saying a word he went to work and with only a bolo took my old
+tin coal oil can and constructed a lining with the metal cleats to hold the shelves up. The only thing he had in the way of
+a tool to work with was his bolo, about two feet long. When I hired him I noticed that he had great long finger nails; I told
+him that he would have to cut them off. He said, &#8220;Why I don&#8217;t too. I wouldn&#8217;t have anything to scratch myself with.&#8221; But,
+upon my insisting, he took his huge bolo, placed his fingers on a block of wood, and severed his useful finger nails. They
+use these bolos for cutting grass, cutting meat,&#8212;they use them for haggling our soldiers, as we learned to our grief and wrath.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p103" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p103.jpg" alt="Carabao Pond." width="720" height="499"><p class="figureHead"><span class="corr" id="xd0e1404" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span> Pond.
+</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>There are vast quantities of coal, but the mines so far have been but little developed. The coal is so full of sulphur that
+its quality is spoiled. There are possibilities of finding it in good paying quantities on several of the islands. It makes
+a quick blaze and <span class="corr" id="xd0e1410" title="Source: soons">soon</span> burns out. The natives sell it in tiny chunks, by the handful, or in little woven baskets that hold just about a quart.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o103.gif" alt="Ornament." width="115" height="53"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb104" href="#pb104">104</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch16" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Animals.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Sixteen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he animal that is most essential in every way is the <span class="corr" id="xd0e1426" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> or water buffalo. They are expensive, a good one costing two or three hundred dollars. Their number has been very much diminished
+by the rinder-pest. The precious <span class="corr" id="xd0e1429" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> is carefully guarded; at night it is kept in the lower part of the house or in a little pond close by.
+
+</p>
+<p>The picture shown opposite is a good representation of the better class of fairly well-to-do Filipino people; they are rich
+if they can afford as many <span class="corr" id="xd0e1434" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> as stand here. The second picture shows the way they are driven. Their skins are used for everything that good strong leather
+can be used for. Their meat is good for food; but heaven help anybody who is obliged to eat it, and when it is prepared, as
+it often is, by drying the steaks in the sun, then the toughness exceeds that of the tanned hide. A sausage mill could not
+chew dried <span class="corr" id="xd0e1437" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span>. The milk is watery and poor, but the natives like it very much. The horns are used for handles for bolos, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb105" href="#pb105">105</a>]</span>the hoofs for glue, and the bones are turned into carved articles of many kinds. The little calves that go wandering about
+by the sides of their mothers are so curious and so top heavy, and yet they are strong even when small. <span class="corr" id="xd0e1442" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span> sometimes go crazy, and when they do, they tread down everything in their way. Notwithstanding their ungainly bulk they can
+run as well as a good horse, and can endure long journeys quite as well. They are urged to greater speed by the driver taking
+the tail and giving it a twist or kicking them in the flank.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p105" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p105.jpg" alt="Carabao and Riders." width="483" height="720"><p class="figureHead"><span class="corr" id="xd0e1448" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span> and Riders.
+</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>I used to spend most of my time threatening my driver that he would have to go to a calaboose if he did not stop abusing the
+animal. The horses are only caricatures. They are so small, so poorly kept, and so badly driven that one burns with indignation
+at the sight of them. There is no bit and the bridle is always bad. The nose piece is fitted tight and has on the under side
+a bit of horny fish skin, its spikes turned towards the flesh. These are jerked into the flesh of the poor horse until, in
+its frenzy, it dashes madly from one side of the road to the other.
+
+</p>
+<p>Cows are of little use. They look fair but they give little milk. Goats are next in importance, and are delightful to watch.
+The kids, in pairs and triplets, are such pretty little creatures, so perfectly formed, that I could scarcely resist the desire
+to bring a few home.
+
+</p>
+<p>The dogs are the worst looking creatures imaginable. They are so maimed that they are pests rather than pets; but there are
+thousands of them. There was one exception, a dog that was brought to me one day from a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb106" href="#pb106">106</a>]</span>burning house, the like of which I had never seen before. It was called an Andalusian poodle. It proved to be not only the
+handsomest but the best little dog I ever had. Being a lover of dogs, I regretted very much to give him up upon my return.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o138.gif" alt="Ornament." width="418" height="100"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb107" href="#pb107">107</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch17" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Amusements and Street Parades.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Seventeen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-a.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-a.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">A</span>s a drowning man catches at a straw, so was I eager for anything that would give even slight relief from consuming anxieties
+and pressing hardships. The natives responded quickly to the slightest encouragement; small change drew groups of two to fifty
+to give me &#8220;special performances.&#8221; There were blind fiddlers who would play snatches of operas picked up &#8220;by ear&#8221; on the rudest
+kind of a fiddle made out of hollow bamboo with only one string; it was astonishing how much music they could draw from the
+rude instrument. The bow was a piece of bent bamboo with shredded abaka for the bow-strings. Flutes were made of bamboo stalks;
+drums out of <span class="corr" id="xd0e1473" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> hide stretched over a cylindrical piece of bamboo. Some of these strolling bands came many miles to my door, and while none
+of them ever produced correct music, still they were a great diversion.
+
+</p>
+<p>There were strolling players, too. The first performance was the most interesting that I have ever seen. The players arranged
+themselves within a square roughly <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb108" href="#pb108">108</a>]</span>drawn in the middle of the road; then to the strains of a bamboo fiddle, bamboo flute, bamboo drum, the melodrama was begun.
+The hero pranced into the open square to the tune of a minor dirge, not knowing a single sentence of his part; the prompter,
+kneeling down before a flaring candle, told him what to say; he repeated in parrot-like fashion, and then pranced off the
+square to slow dirge-like music. Now the heroine minced in from the opposite corner to slow music with her satin train sweeping
+in the dust; though carefully raised when she crossed the sacred precincts of the square, and in a sauntering way, with one
+arm akimbo and the other holding the fan up in the air, she took the opposite corner and the prompter told her what to say.
+In the meantime the candle blew out; it was relighted; the prompter found his place and signaled to the hero to come on. From
+the opposite side again, with a bow and hand on heart, the lover repeated after the prompter his addresses to the waiting
+maiden. She pretended to be surprised and shocked at his addresses, fainted away and was carried off the stage by two women
+attendants; the lover with folded arms looked calmly at the sad havoc he had wrought. Now a rival suitor sprang into the ring
+and with a huge bolo attacked number one and killed him. The heroine was now able to return. She did not fall into the arms
+of number two. She only listened placidly to the demand of how much she would pay to secure so splendid a man as the one that
+could bolo his rival. The parents finally entered and settled the difficulty. The play closed with the prospect of a happy
+union. The <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb109" href="#pb109">109</a>]</span>company dispersed, the women and girls walking on one side of the road with the torches in their hands, and the men on the
+other, in two solemn files. There was no chattering or laughing; yet they all felt that they had had a most delightful performance.
+
+</p>
+<p>Two or three concerts given at a neighboring town were very creditable, but only the better class attended; nine-tenths of
+the people resort to these crude, wayside performances. They look on with seeming indifference; there is never a sign of approval,
+much less an outburst of applause. They seem to have no place in their souls for the ludicrous, the comic, or the joyous.
+They were shocked by my smiles and peals of laughter. They have a strange preference for the minor key in music, for the dirge.
+No wonder when our bands would play lively music that they were quite ready to take up the catchy airs, but they would add
+a mournful cadence to the most stirring of our American airs. After awhile I found that the music oftenest rendered by the
+cathedral organ was the Aguinaldo March. I took the liberty to inform the commanding officer and that tune was stopped. After
+the surrender, to my great surprise and joy, the same organ rolled out &#8220;America&#8221;; it did thrill me, even if it was played
+on a Filipino instrument and by a Filipino.
+
+</p>
+<p>Little boys often came with tiny birds which they had trained to do little tricks. One had snakes which he would twist around
+his bare body. And never was there a day without a cock fight. Sometimes the birds were held in check by strings attached
+to them, but it was a common occurrence to see groups of natives watching <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb110" href="#pb110">110</a>]</span>their birds fight to the finish at any time of day, Sundays not excepted. And they will all bet on the issue if it takes the
+last cent they have. <span class="corr" id="xd0e1488" title="Source: The">They</span> do not seem to enjoy it in a hilarious manner at all. It is serious business, without comment or jovial look or act. No one
+is so busy that he can not stop for a cock fight.
+
+</p>
+<p>There are many kinds of monkeys on the islands. It is common to domesticate them, to train them to do their master&#8217;s bidding;
+they become a part of the family, half plaything, half servant. Parrots, too, are adopted into the household and learn to
+speak its dialect; they are almost uncanny in their chatter and they, too, do all kinds of tricks at the bidding.
+
+</p>
+<p>I was daily importuned to buy monkeys, parrots, cocks, or song birds. I took a tiny bird that was never known to so much as
+chirp, but he grew fond of me, would perch upon my shoulder or would turn his little head right or left as if to ask if I
+were pleased with his silent attentions. The last morning of my stay in Jaro I went to the window and set him free but he
+immediately came back and clung to my hand. I took him to Iloilo and left him with the nurses; he lived only a day.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o110.gif" alt="Ornament." width="145" height="49"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb111" href="#pb111">111</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch18" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Festivals of the Church.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Eighteen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-a.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-a.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">A</span>ccording to the Spanish calendar in my possession, there is a festival for every day in the year. There are services every
+morning at seven, every evening at five; often there are special grand festivals. The Jaro church has a wax figure of the
+Savior and this figure is dressed for various festivals in various ways; sometimes in evening dress, with white shirt, diamond
+stud, rings on the fingers, patent leather shoes, and a derby hat. This figure was placed on a large platform and either carried
+on the shoulders of men or put on a wagon and drawn by men. Once I saw the cart pushed along by a bull at the rear. This procession
+would form at the Cathedral door, march around the square and then usually go three or four blocks down toward the house where
+the priest lived, and by that time it would be very nearly dark and they would light their candles and return and go about
+the square again before going into the Cathedral.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb112" href="#pb112">112</a>]</span></p>
+<p>Sometimes the figure was dressed in royal robes with long purple mantle and gilded crown upon the head; on Good Friday it
+lay in a white shroud as if in death; on Easter day it was arrayed in flowing white robes and was brought from the cemetery
+into town and borne at the head of a great parade. Those who could afford to do so would set up a special shrine in front
+of their homes, adorned with flowers and household images. The priest would, as a special favor, have special services before
+these shrines, and the more money spent on these shrines and the more paid to the priest the more distinguished the citizen.
+For days before the natives were busy making long candles out of <span class="corr" id="xd0e1511" title="Source: caribou">carabao</span> tallow. Some of these candles, huge and crude, would weigh four or five pounds. None of the so-called common people or the
+poor class would take part in any of these wonderful parades unless they were able to wear good clothes and have long trains
+to their dresses. I never saw any one in these processions who was at all poor; the poor simply stand by the roadside and
+look on. I asked my Filipino woman why she did not join; she said she would just as soon as she could get a dress with a train.
+It was not many weeks before she was in the procession, having earned the train by laundry work for the officers and soldiers.
+For the men, it was their joy to be able to purchase a derby hat. I never knew there could be so many kinds of derbies as
+I saw on the heads of these natives. It was said that a ship-load of them was brought over once, and they so charmed the male
+population that from that time on they all aspired to own a derby, no matter how <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb113" href="#pb113">113</a>]</span>ancient its appearance or of what color it might be. And no matter if they did not have a shirt to their back, if they had
+on a good stiff derby hat, they were dressed for any occasion and to appear before anybody.
+
+</p>
+<p>The priests wear, first, a long, plain white robe, over this a black cassock, then a white cotta; and the more richly it is
+embroidered the better they like it. There was with this white cotta a white petticoat plain at the top and ruffled at the
+bottom. I did not know the names of the outer vestments but they were all embroidered. I offered to buy one of the heavily
+embroidered vestments from a priest but he refused, saying that it was very hard to get that kind of cloth embroidered so
+beautifully. He gave me one of the Filipino skirts; it was badly worn, but I kept it as a curiosity. Not knowing very much
+about the Roman church, there were a great many things done every day that I could not understand; for instance, when a priest
+went out in a closed carriage attended by two or three boys he would come from the church door with one of the boys in front
+of him ringing a bell vigorously. He would ring this bell just as hard as he could until the priest would get inside with
+his attendants and then they would drive away. When they returned they would go through this same performance of ringing this
+bell until they got inside of the church. I saw this many times and once asked a Roman Catholic soldier what it meant; he
+said he did not know.
+
+</p>
+<p>It may be that these people need to be terrorized by the priests; certain it is that, when a priest walks through the village
+or when any of the people see him, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb114" href="#pb114">114</a>]</span>they kneel and kiss his hand, if he is so gracious as to honor them with the privilege. The people bow down before him and
+reverence him though he may at any moment lift his cane and give them a good whack over the head or shoulders. I never saw
+this done, but several of our men told me they had seen it; and one captain told me that he saw the priest take a huge bamboo
+pole and knock a man down because he failed to get into the procession in double-quick time. They do literally rule these
+people with the rod.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o162.gif" alt="Ornament." width="299" height="84"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb115" href="#pb115">115</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch19" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Osteopathy.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Nineteen.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">I</span>n 1895, for the benefit of one dearer to me than life, I went to Kirksville, Mo., and from Dr. A. T. Still learned something
+of the principles and practice of his great art. The subject grew in interest; I became a regular student of the American
+School of Osteopathy, and, in time, completed the course and took the decree. In the islands it was a great pleasure to me
+to help our sick soldiers; scores of them, with touching gratitude, have blessed the use that I made of my hands upon them.
+Officers and men came daily for treatment. Soon the Filipinos came, too. Women walked many miles carrying their sick children;
+the blind and lame besought me to lay my hands upon them. It was noised about that I had divine power. My door was beset.
+I gladly gave relief where I could, but for the most of them help was one hundred years too late.
+
+</p>
+<p>I recall with special pleasure one successful case. A woman came to me who said she had walked forty miles to bring her sick
+child; for compensation she offered a <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb116" href="#pb116">116</a>]</span>pigeon and three eggs. I could not look out of my window without seeing some poor sick native squatted on the ground waiting
+to see if I could do anything for her sick child or herself. The natives when burning up with fever think they dare not wash
+their bodies; they will lie hopeless and passive on the ground or on a small bamboo mat. It is pitiable to see them so utterly
+destitute; not one single thing that would go to make up a bed or pillow, nor do they seem to have any mode of taking care
+of their sick at all.
+
+</p>
+<p>Our army hospitals were very well kept, indeed, but it was a great struggle to get help enough and to get the things needed
+for hundreds of sick soldiers. There were many large buildings, but as soon as the government attempted to purchase them,
+the Filipinos asked exorbitant prices. And then the sanitary conditions are such that it is hard to establish hospitals anywhere.
+I read with great pleasure that the capitol of Luzon will be on a plateau in the mountains where the temperature will be lower,
+the air better, and the water purer.
+
+</p>
+<p>I am sure that Americans can live in the Philippines; I know that the resources of the islands are vast, especially in agricultural
+and mineral products; that we have, indeed, acquired in our new possessions immeasurable riches.
+
+</p>
+<p>As soon as any Filipino wishes to become a friend and to impress you that he is rich and has vast possessions, the entire
+family, father, mother, and children, will call and bring quantities of fruits, fine clothes, carved shells, and native pearls
+with curiously wrought <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb117" href="#pb117">117</a>]</span>gold settings, and present them with great earnestness of manner and many words of praise. They tell you what great value
+they place upon your friendship, and that of all the people in all the world you are the one person that they do most ardently
+believe in, and finally that they consider you the greatest acquisition to their islands.
+
+</p>
+<p>A Filipino general and his wife came again and again to see me; they brought a magnificent sunburst of diamonds which they
+urged me to accept with their greatest love and affection. I declined positively and absolutely. They seemed very much downcast
+that I would not accept this little token of their deep affection. They went home, but in about two hours came back, brought
+the diamonds, and again urged and urged so strongly that I finally consented to let the wife pin the elegant brooch on my
+dress; perhaps I should find out the hidden meaning of this excessive devotion. As soon as the officer in command returned,
+I told him of the gift, of my refusal, and of their return. A written note was hastily sent to the general that he must come
+and remove the brooch at once. Fearing the wrath of the officer, he came immediately and I returned the diamonds. Even after
+this the family renewed their efforts. I found out afterwards that the general had violated his oath of allegiance; his bribe
+was to buy my influence with the commanding officer.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was evident that many of the better class of natives, in spite of oath and fair face, were directing and maintaining the
+murderous bands of banditti. Often letters were found that the Filipino generals had written to their <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb118" href="#pb118">118</a>]</span>women friends in Jaro, Iloilo and Molo, to sell their jewels, to sell all they could, to buy guns, ammunition, and food, and
+later other letters were captured full of the thanks of the Filipino army for these gifts. While the good Filipinos were taking
+the oath of allegiance with the uplifted right hand, the left was much busier sending supplies to the insurrectos.
+
+</p>
+<p>The hypocrisy of the upper classes was matched by their cruelty. A native of prominence was gracious enough upon one occasion
+to direct a party of officers on their way. He was attended by his servant who walked or ran the entire distance carrying
+a heavy load suspended partly from his shoulders, and partly by a strap about the forehead.
+
+</p>
+<p>The servant failed to start with the party, but in a short time he caught up by running swiftly. The master calmly got off
+his horse, motioned to the servant to drop his load, and proceeded to beat the man unmercifully with a cane made out of fish
+tail, a sword-like, cruel, barbed affair, about four feet long. The poor servant never uttered a cry. As soon as possible
+the officers interfered and stopped the torture. So bloody and faint was the poor victim that they gave him a horse to ride.
+The master was angry, declared he would not have his authority questioned and left the party.
+
+</p>
+<p>A ball was given in the town of Jaro by the officers who were there and in the town of Iloilo. Army, navy, ladies, and nurses
+from the hospital were invited. It was considered quite an unusual thing to do at this time, as the Filipino soldiers were
+near at hand day and night, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb119" href="#pb119">119</a>]</span>approaching and firing upon the town. One of the Filipino women said, &#8220;I do not see how the American officers dare congregate
+at so dangerous a time.&#8221; The men decorated the huge ball room with magnificent palms and ferns which they had gathered and
+put up many flags. The regimental band was stationed on the porch at the rear of the building. It was, altogether, a very
+fine gathering, and all went merry &#8220;as the marriage bell.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>There was a German on the dance programme that was to end in a mock capture. Not thinking that it might occasion alarm, at
+a certain point, some of the soldiers were instructed to fire off some cannon crackers; in addition the soldiers thought it
+would be just as well to fire off a few pistols. The surprise was very great. The colonel of a volunteer regiment nearby heard
+the commotion and gave orders for the company to turn out and find out where this fusillade was occurring, not supposing that
+it could be in private quarters. The Presidente of the town was greatly alarmed, as he was expecting any moment to be captured
+for serving under the U. S. government as head man of a town. The firing created a great commotion, people ran hither and
+thither to find out where the battle was going on; the musicians, who did not understand about the firing, were frightened,
+too; there was a call to arms and great commotion. But soon explanations came, and immediately it was on with the dance. It
+was a huge joke, and when the sentry told that a colonel and his wife were the most frightened of all, barricading their doors
+and having extra guards placed around, the merriment knew no bounds.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb120" href="#pb120">120</a>]</span></p>
+<p>It was seldom that the officers had any of these receptions or balls, but when they did everybody felt they must attend, and
+those taking part in the dance enjoyed themselves very much. Sometimes the officers would charter a small steamer and go to
+one of the nearby islands, but it was rarely they could do so, because of the skulking natives and their manner of signaling
+where these parties landed, making it unsafe for any but large companies to attend these excursions.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was often the duty of our officers and men to stop the cruelties they saw practiced upon dumb brutes. I have in mind the
+way pigs were brought to market, their forefeet across a bamboo pole and their heads bound so that they could not squeal,
+and in this uncomfortable way they were carried many miles. Of the many stories that were told of the cruelties our soldiers
+perpetrated upon the helpless Filipinos, I do not believe one word; indeed, our men were constantly assisting the natives
+in every way possible.
+
+</p>
+<p>On the 4th of July, 1900, our officers decided to tender a reception to the Filipino families whose hospitalities they had
+enjoyed. They issued invitations and decorated their quarters in fine shape with flags, bunting, palms, and pictures. It was
+quite the talk of the town. The beauty and chivalry of the island were there. For refreshments they served commissary supplies
+with ice cream and cake. The guests thought it a very poor banquet for such pretentious people as the officers were. The Filipinos
+always have a ten or twelve course meal at twelve o&#8217;clock at their dances, especially when they have <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb121" href="#pb121">121</a>]</span>festivals or wedding banquets. There were many of these given. I could often watch the throng from my window; they went at
+this particular kind of hilarity in the same listless, slow, silent manner in which they did everything. The popular dance
+is the &#8220;Rigadon.&#8221; There is a great deal of swinging of couples and going forward and back. None of the common people seem
+to indulge in any form of a dance, so far as I could learn.
+
+</p>
+<p>We invited upon several occasions some Filipino men and women to dine with us, and it was interesting to hear their remarks
+about various dishes we had prepared for them. They would ask questions concerning the preparations. Mince pies, which we
+made of canned meat and canned apples, were a source of great wonder; they would ask where they could get the fruit for that
+kind of a pudding. I know that they made wry faces at some dishes, and I know that we did ourselves, for some of them were
+beyond comparison; no chef in all the world could produce a good thing out of such materials.
+
+</p>
+<p>The May festival was given by the children, chiefly by the little girls of the cathedral congregation. The leader was a woman
+of fine character and standing. She worked hard every day with these little tots to train them to do their parts well, which
+consisted of marching into the cathedral by twos&#8217;, arranging themselves into a circle about the Virgin Mother and throwing
+flowers and bouquets, singing and speaking. The ludicrous part of it all was that these little things were supposed to be
+dressed like American children. The models had been taken from some old magazine,&#8212;huge sleeves, small <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb122" href="#pb122">122</a>]</span>waists, skirt to the knees, and pantlets to the top of shoes. The shoes were painfully tight and the little feet, unaccustomed
+to being held in such close quarters, limped and hobbled piteously. The festival was carried on every day for weeks. Bushels
+of flowers were thrown at the figure of the Blessed Virgin.
+
+</p>
+<p>Some of the festivals in the larger cathedrals in Manila were gorgeous indeed. There were floats on which were carried the
+different patron saints, all gorgeously arrayed in the most magnificent costumes. Evidently the churches were never meant
+for the common or poor people, so few of them were ever seen within their walls; but without were vast crowds of beggars,
+of the blind, the deformed, the <span class="corr" id="xd0e1580" title="Source: deseased">diseased</span>; victims of smallpox and of leprosy in every stage of suffering. It is said that the first thing ordered by Bishop Brent,
+who took charge of the Protestant Episcopal church in the Philippines, was soap.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o122.gif" alt="Ornament." width="151" height="58"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb123" href="#pb123">123</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch20" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">The McKinley Campaign.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he excitement on the islands ran quite high during the McKinley-Bryan campaign. The natives conceived that if Bryan were elected
+they could, in some way, they could not explain how, not only be very greatly benefited personally, but the U. S. troops would
+be withdrawn; they would then be rid not only of the Spaniards but of the Americans, and could then have a ruler of their
+own choosing. I knew that there were small papers or bulletins published to intensify these sentiments. Popular favor was
+all for Bryan and not one person for McKinley, while on the other hand I do not think there was a single soldier who was not
+a McKinley man. The feeling ran high, and, while our papers gave us every assurance that the Republican party would be victorious,
+we were very anxious for the news. On the night of the 6th of November we had the glorious report. It did not take long for
+the shouts to go up from every American soldier. About eleven o&#8217;clock <span class="smallcaps">P. M.</span> all the American officers and men formed in procession with the band at <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb124" href="#pb124">124</a>]</span>the head; they came around to the house where I was staying and called out, &#8220;Come, Mrs. Conger, you must join in this jubilee.&#8221;
+I did not need a second invitation. Snatching my little American flag that I take wherever I go, I formed in line with the
+boys. We marched around and around the park, cheering, singing patriotic songs, and hurrahing for McKinley. In front of one
+of the houses where I knew they were the most bitter toward the Americans, we cheered lustily. I had been there only a few
+days before to purchase a Jusi dress for Mrs. McKinley. I said that I would like one of their very best weaves, as it would
+go to the White House to Mrs. McKinley. With a great deal of scorn in her voice and manner she declared she would not make
+it. We continued on our march through and around the town until after one o&#8217;clock, when I returned to my room. I was about
+to retire when a detachment from the Scouts came and said, &#8220;Oh, Mrs. Conger, we want you to come over to the park, we are
+going to have a big bonfire.&#8221; So I went over and we had another jollification, hurrahing, singing, shouting for McKinley,
+until we made ourselves hoarse. We burned up all the old debris that we could gather and plenty of bamboo, which makes a cracking
+noise, quite like a roll of musketry. From every window and crevice in every house about that park native heads were gazing
+at us, and never one cheer came from a single throat, but we gave them to understand in no uncertain terms where we stood.
+I suppose they thought it was only one more unheard of thing for a woman to do, to be out marching and singing, and I <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb125" href="#pb125">125</a>]</span>am sure they thought &#8220;<span class="corr" id="xd0e1603" title="Source: Senora">Se&ntilde;ora</span> Blanco,&#8221; the name I was called by the people all over the Island of Panay, had gone mad; and I was certainly doing unheard
+of things, for, as I said before, it is not considered at all proper for a woman to be walking or riding with a man. And to
+think that a woman of my years, and the only American woman in that part of the country, would, at such an hour, be marching
+with those hundreds of boys in the dead of night was wholly beyond their comprehension, and they had no words adequate to
+express their disgust at my outburst of enthusiasm and patriotism.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o125.gif" alt="Ornament." width="217" height="112"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb126" href="#pb126">126</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch21" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Governor Taft at Jaro.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty-One.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-w.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-w.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">W</span>hen Governor Taft and other members of the peace commission were expected at Iloilo and Jaro, there were great preparations
+for several weeks before hand. The guests came to Jaro for a morning reception at the home of one of the wealthy citizens.
+The house had been beautifully decorated and the refreshments were served in the large room at the left of the hall; the buffet
+luncheon consisted of every kind of cake and sweetmeats, champagne, wine, and beer. The Filipino guests were in the large
+front room, seated in rows, six or eight rows, perhaps twenty in a row, with their backs to each other or facing each other.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p126" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p126.jpg" alt="Jaro at Time of Reception to Governor W. H. Taft and Party." width="720" height="484"><p class="figureHead">Jaro at Time of Reception to Governor W. H. Taft and Party.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>I was the only American woman there until Mrs. Taft and other ladies with the peace commission arrived. Not wishing to sit
+solemnly in line gazing at these newly acquired sisters of mine, I ventured some remarks in Spanish about the weather and
+the coming guests. There was little response. My curiosity getting the better of me, I made bold to examine the gowns of these
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb127" href="#pb127">127</a>]</span>women for I had seldom seen before such handsome material, rich brocaded satins, cloth of gold wrought with seed pearls and
+jewels; huge strings of pearls on the neck, diamond and pearl rings on the fingers and very handsome ornaments in the hair;
+every head bore a huge pompadour and every face was heavily powdered; the perfume was stifling even with every window stretched
+to the fullest extent. Each woman carried a handsome fan and each was attended by at least one servant. After waiting in this
+rigid company manner about an hour and a half, the distinguished guests arrived. We were then entertained by some of the local
+artists and celebrities. There was vocal and instrumental music; a fine grand piano, very good violins, and the concert was
+by far the best music I had heard in the islands.
+
+</p>
+<p>At 1:30 we were all carried over in carriages to the house of the Presidente and thirty-five of us sat down to a very sumptuous
+banquet of about eighteen courses. The menu of soup, fish, game, birds, salads, was very quickly served, a waiter for each
+guest. The table was furnished with much silver and cut glass, and at each plate was a bouquet holder with napkin ring attached;
+there were after-dinner speeches by Governor Taft, Judge Wright, and others; then we were ushered into the large drawing-room
+where coffee and cigars were served. The room had been especially prepared by the labor of many days spent on tacking flags
+on the ceiling and side walls, making a very beautiful effect. There were huge bunches of artificial flowers. For the entertainment
+at this house, all the Filipino bands from the surrounding towns were <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb128" href="#pb128">128</a>]</span>massed together. Governor Taft complimented his hosts upon their very delightful &#8220;entretener,&#8221; and said he had seen nothing
+to compare with it for elegance and enthusiastic welcome since he had been on the islands. At every corner of the plaza there
+were erected handsome bamboo arches and booths, and every strip of bunting and every flag that could be got out were waving
+in Jaro on this great day of inauguration of the Civil Commission on the Island of Panay. To me it seemed anything but a peaceful
+time as the scouts were then out after a very desperate band of insurrectos, but I have never seen anywhere more beautiful
+ornamentation or more lavish display of wealth, and yet there was lacking in it all the genuine ring of cordiality and enthusiasm.
+In Iloilo there were many receptions and various kinds of entertainments given. Governor Taft invited leading citizens out
+to the ship where he returned the compliment with refreshments, good cheer, and a salute.
+
+</p>
+<p>In writing of my life in the islands, I must mention incidents of serious nature and yet of common happening. Almost daily
+would come an instant call for troops to mount and ride post haste by night or day after some of these worse than lawless
+bands of Filipinos. One evening while we were at dinner we had as our guest a Lieutenant of one of the volunteer regiments.
+He had been ill and had spent the time of his convalescence in acquiring some of the manifold Filipino dialects, about sixty
+in all, it is said. He was detailed by the commanding officer to visit some of the inland villages and inspect the schools
+and inquire generally after the condition of the <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb129" href="#pb129">129</a>]</span>people. He told us that evening that he intended to make quite an extensive tour around the island of Panay in the interest
+of the schools. &#8220;You are going to take a strong guard, of course?&#8221; we asked. &#8220;Anyone going on such a peaceful mission as mine
+would not need even an orderly, but I will take an orderly to assist in carrying the books and pamphlets.&#8221; The very next evening
+while we were at dinner, word was brought that this splendid young man had been killed not three miles from where we were
+sitting. In a few minutes men mounted and were off to the scene of the murder. In a nearby hut the young officer lay dead.
+He, who had so trustingly confided in these &#8220;peaceful people,&#8221; had fallen the victim of his noble impulses. Every article
+of any value had been taken from his body except a little watch that he carried in a small leather case on his wrist; he had
+bought it that very day to send to his wife. No trace of the &#8220;insurrectos,&#8221; the murderers, was ever found. A native woman
+said the officer was riding peacefully along with his orderly at his side when suddenly they were stopped by a volley of balls.
+The Lieutenant turned, as did also the orderly; their horses took fright, one rider was thrown, probably already dead, the
+other escaped. The funeral rites of our noble soldier were conducted with military honors; the body was sent home to his bereaved
+wife and family.
+
+</p>
+<p>One day a missionary was on his way from town to town; he had, unfortunately, an orderly with him. He was stopped and asked
+his business; he replied that he was a missionary. &#8220;Why carry a gun?&#8221; was the scornful <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb130" href="#pb130">130</a>]</span>retort. He was stripped of everything of value but was allowed to return. The soldier did not fare so well; he was killed
+before the rescuing party could reach him. A detachment was sent out one day to procure some young beef for sale in a nearby
+village. They were received with open arms by the Presidente of the village and the Padre and were most sumptuously entertained.
+It was kindly explained that they had no young cattle for sale but that about a mile further on there were some very fine
+young calves that could be had at five dollars in gold.
+
+</p>
+<p>Not thinking of any treachery, the soldiers mounted and rode about a mile beyond the village into a ravine which, according
+to the instructions, led to the cattle-field beyond. While crossing the stream in the bottom of the ravine, the men were startled
+by the whiz of bullets and, glancing up, found the steep banks lined with insurrectos who had opened fire without a moment&#8217;s
+warning. Our men entrapped, surrounded, were ordered to surrender. For answer they put spurs to their horses and started back
+under a heavy fire. Unfortunately two of the fine horses were shot; their riders were obliged to run afoot the rest of the
+way up the bank and were picked up by their comrades. One of the men shouted, &#8220;Sergeant, don&#8217;t you hear they are calling for
+us to surrender? Say are you going to?&#8221; With an oath, &#8220;No, not by a d&#8212;-d sight. Run and fight.&#8221; Which they did and actually
+got away from hundreds of natives and arrived in Jaro breathless and weary, the horses covered with foam. Not a man had been
+killed or wounded. <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb131" href="#pb131">131</a>]</span>Two horses were killed outright, but none were maimed. Soon the troop was in the saddle and out after those treacherous miscreants.
+Many natives were arrested and brought to town and then it was found that this loyal (?) Presidente, whom the commanding general
+had had the utmost confidence in was at the head of a number of Filipino companies which scoured the country to capture small
+parties of our soldiers. As the investigations were pressed it came out that the bodies of their victims had been torn to
+pieces and buried in quicklime that there might be no traces left of their treachery. It was several weeks before the full
+facts were obtained and before the mutilated remains of our soldiers were found and brought back and buried.
+
+</p>
+<p>The volunteer regiments suffered most from these brutal cowards, directed and urged on by the &#8220;very best men&#8221; in civil and
+&#8220;sacred&#8221; office. These are facts from the lips of U. S. officers, men who do not lie. Very often the troops were called out
+to capture these bloody bands, but it was hard to locate them or bring them to a stand. The natives knew so many circuitous
+ways of running to cover and they had so many friends to aid them that it was almost impossible to follow them. Whenever they
+were captured they were so surprised, so humiliated, so innocent, meek and subdued, that it would never occur to an honest
+man that they could know how to handle a bolo or a gun. But experience taught that the most guileless in looks were the worst
+desperadoes of all. My first sight of a squad of these captives is a thing not to be forgotten. They were a scrubby lot of
+hardly <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb132" href="#pb132">132</a>]</span>human things, stunted, gnarled pigmies, with no hats or shoes, and scarcely a rag of clothing. Their cruel knives, the deadly
+bolos, were the only things they could be stripped of. I looked down upon them from my window in astonishment. &#8220;It is not
+possible,&#8221; I exclaimed, &#8220;that these miserable creatures are samples of what is called the Filipino army.&#8221; &#8220;Yes,&#8221; an officer
+replied, &#8220;these are the fellows that never fight; that only stab in the back and mutilate the dying and dead.&#8221; My eyes turned
+to the guard, our own soldiers, fine, manly fellows, who fairly represented the personnel of our own splendid army. It made
+me indignant that one of them should suffer at the hands of such vermin or rather at the hands of the religious manipulators
+who stood in safety behind their ignorant degraded slaves.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/logo.gif" alt="Ornament." width="105" height="149"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb133" href="#pb133">133</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch22" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Shipwreck.</h2>
+<h2 class="normal">Chapter Twenty-Two.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he climate seemed beyond physical endurance, although the thermometer ranged no higher than from ninety to one hundred ten,
+but the heat was continuous night and day; exhaustion without relief. The only time that one could get a breath was about
+five o&#8217;clock in the morning; in the middle of the day the sun&#8217;s rays are white-hot needles,&#8212;this is the only way that I can
+express it; and even if one carries an umbrella, the heat pierces directly through. From the first of November to the middle
+of December, there is usually about six or seven hours a day of comparative comfort; but the season is too short to brace
+the enervated body. One day the thermometer fell to seventy-eight; we Americans shivered and craved a fire, so much did we
+feel the change of temperature.
+
+</p>
+<p>I finally learned from the natives that it is not best after bathing, to rub the body with a towel; and indeed, following
+them more closely, that it is wise to feed with cocoanut oil the famished pores of the skin which has <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb134" href="#pb134">134</a>]</span>been weakened by excessive exudation. The rainy season begins in April, usually, and gives some relief from the excessive
+heat; and such rains, never in my life had I known before what it was to have rain come down by the barrelful! The two-story
+house in which we were quartered was quite solidly built, and the boards of the second story were over-lapped to keep out
+the rain; and yet, I have often had to get up on the bed or table while the water poured in at innumerable unsuspected cracks
+and swept the floor like a torrent. It was hard to tell which frightened one the most, the terrible rain-storms or the awful
+earthquakes. In the house there was a magnificent glass chandelier. The first time we had a severe earthquake that chandelier
+swayed back and forth in such a wild way that it seemed as if it must fall and crush every prism, tiny light, and bell. I
+felt sure whenever a quake began that I should not live through it. The flying fragments across the room, the creaking hard-wood
+doors, the nauseating feeling that everything under foot was falling away,&#8212;it was a frightful experience then, it is a sickening
+memory now. One never gets used to these shocks no matter how many occur; the more, the worse. They are more frequent in the
+night than in the day. It was not quite so bad if the wild start from uneasy slumber was followed by a cheery voice calling,
+&#8220;Hello there, are you alive, has anything hurt you, has anything struck?&#8221; Even the rats are terrified, and the natives, almost
+to a soul, leave their houses, congregate in the middle of the street, and begin to pray. Sometimes a fierce wind from the
+north brings sad havoc <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb135" href="#pb135">135</a>]</span>to the hastily built bamboo houses; a whole street of these slightly constructed dwellings is toppled over or lies aslant,
+or is swept away. At first we used to smile at the storm signal displayed at Iloilo. If the sky was clear and still, we would
+start out confidently on some trip, to the next town perhaps; before we had gone more than a half mile we would be drenched
+through and through and no cloud, not even as big as a man&#8217;s hand was to be seen; at other times dense clouds, the blackest
+clouds, would shut down close upon us,&#8212;such are the strange variations. No sort of sailing craft ever leaves the port when
+the signals are up for one of these hurricane storms; if caught out in them they put instantly into the nearest port. Shipwrecks
+are frequent, partly on account of these sudden storms, but chiefly on account of the shifting sands of the course.
+
+</p>
+<p>From Manila to Iloilo on a boat that had been purchased for the use of the government, I was, on one occasion, the only passenger
+on board. The captain had never been over this course before, but he was confident of getting through with the help of a Spanish
+chart. About two o&#8217;clock in the morning I sprang to my feet alarmed by the harsh grinding of the boat&#8217;s keel, the scurrying
+of many feet, the shouting of quick orders. The shock of the boat blew out all lamps; in the darkness I opened the door of
+my cabin and ran to find the captain, guided by his voice. I learned that we were aground. I asked him if I could help. &#8220;Yes,
+if you can carry messages to the engineer and translate them into Spanish.&#8221; I ran to and fro, stumbling up or down, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb136" href="#pb136">136</a>]</span>forgetting every time I passed that a certain part of the ship had a raised ledge. The effort was to prop the boat with spars
+that it might not tip as it crunched and settled down upon the coral reefs. We could hardly wait until daylight to measure
+the predicament. When the light grew clear so that I saw the illuminated waters, there was a scene of new and wonderful beauty,&#8212;a
+garden of the sea, a coral grove. Far as the eye could reach there was every conceivable color, shape, and kind of coral,&#8212;pink,
+green, yellow, and white. It all looked so safe and soft, as if one might crush it in the hands; and yet these huge cakes
+of coral were like adamant, except the delicate fern-like spikes that were so viciously piercing the bottom of our boat. I
+saw all kinds of sea shells, the lovely nautilus spreading its sails on the surface, and the huge devil-fish sprawling at
+the bottom of the shallow pools, with its many tentacles thrown out on every side.
+
+</p>
+<p>With innumerable ants, swarms of mosquitoes, lizards everywhere, rats by the million, mice, myriads of langoustas or grass-hoppers,
+long cockroaches, squeaking bugs, monkeys that stole everything they could lay their hands on, the fear of the deadly bolo,
+the dread each night of waking up amid flame and smoke, earthquakes, tornadoes, dreadful thunders and lightnings, torrents
+of water, life sometimes seemed hard; each new day was but a repetition of yesterday, and I used constantly to rely upon the
+assured promises&#8212;Psalms XCI:
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide under the shadow of the Almighty.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;I will say of the Lord, he is my refuge and my fortress: my God: in him will I trust.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb137" href="#pb137">137</a>]</span></p>
+<p>&#8220;Surely he shall deliver thee from the snare of the fowler, and from the noisome pestilence.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;He shall cover thee with his feathers, and under his wings shalt thou trust; his truth shall be thy shield and buckler.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Thou shalt not be afraid for the terror by night; nor for the arrow that flieth by day;
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Nor for the pestilence that walketh in darkness; nor for the destruction that wasteth at noonday.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;A thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy right hand; but it shall not come nigh thee.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Only with thine eyes shalt thou behold and see the reward of the wicked.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Because thou hast made the Lord, which is my refuge, even the most High, thy habitation;
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;There shall no evil befall thee, neither shall any plague come nigh thy dwelling.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;For he shall give his angels charge over thee, to keep thee in all thy ways.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;They shall bear thee up in their hands, lest thou dash thy foot against a stone.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Thou shalt tread upon the lion and the dragon shalt thou trample under feet.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Because he hath set his love upon thee, therefore will I deliver him: I will set him on high, because he hath known my name.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;He shall call upon me, and I will answer him: I will be with him in trouble; I will deliver him, and honour him.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p138" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p138.jpg" alt="Cemetery Crypts for Those Who Can Buy or Rent." width="720" height="498"><p class="figureHead">Cemetery Crypts for Those Who Can Buy or Rent.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb138" href="#pb138">138</a>]</span></p>
+<p>&#8220;With long life will I satisfy him, and show him my salvation.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>Looking down from my window every day into the faces of six or more dead bodies that were brought to the cathedral, I knew
+that &#8220;The pestilence was walking in the darkness.&#8221;
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o138.gif" alt="Ornament." width="418" height="100"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb139" href="#pb139">139</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch23" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Filipino Domestic Life.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty-Three.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he houses are made of bamboo; some of them are pretty, quite artistic; the plain ones cost about seventy-five cents each;
+no furniture of any kind is needed. The native food is rice, or, as it is called in the vernacular, &#8220;Sow-sow.&#8221; It is cooked
+in an earthen pot set upon stones with a few lighted twigs thrust under it for fire. When it is eaten with nature&#8217;s forks&#8212;the
+fingers&#8212;with a relish of raw fish, it is the chief article of diet.
+
+</p>
+<p>House-cleaning is one thing that I never saw in practice or evidence. I took a supply of lye with me and it was a huge joke
+to see the natives use it in cleaning the floors.
+
+</p>
+<p>The windows are made of oyster shells which are thin and flat; these cut in three-inch squares make a window peculiarly adapted
+to withstand the heavy storms and earthquakes; it transmits a pleasant opalescent light.
+
+</p>
+<p>Coffee is raised, but not widely used by the natives; they prefer chocolate.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb140" href="#pb140">140</a>]</span></p>
+<p>After many unsuccessful attempts, I gave up trying to have my dishes washed in my way; I soon discovered that the servants
+used the tea <span class="corr" id="xd0e1736" title="Source: towls">towels</span> on their bodies. This convinced me, and I let them wash mine as they did their own, by pouring water on each dish separately,
+rinsing and setting to dry on the porch in the sun, the only place where the vermin would not crawl over them.
+
+</p>
+<p>The irons used for pressing clothes are like a smooth, round-bottomed skillet, the inside is filled with lighted sticks and
+embers. The operator, who sits on the floor, passes this smoking mass over the thing to be pressed. The article, when finished,
+looks as if it had been sat upon.
+
+</p>
+<p>One Palm Sunday I visited five different churches in all of which were palms in profusion, woven into almost innumerable forms;
+fishes, birds in and out of cages, trees, fruits, flowers, crosses, crowns, sceptres, mitres, and saints&#8217; emblems. The cathedral
+at Arevalo looked like a huge garden, but, in one second after it had been discovered that a white woman and an American officer
+were present, the entire congregation, rising, turned to look at us; it seemed as if a whirlwind were sweeping the palms,
+so nervous were the hands that held them.
+
+</p>
+<p>After the service, the crowd came out and vanished immediately, fear of an attack having overcome their curiosity.
+
+</p>
+<p>Nearly all the little children are naked. One day I saw a little fellow about three years old who was suffering severely with
+the smallpox. He was smoking a huge cigar of the kind the natives make by rolling the natural tobacco leaf and tying it with
+a bit of bamboo <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb141" href="#pb141">141</a>]</span>fibre. He did look ridiculous. A native teacher told me that they all begin to smoke when about two years old; poor, little,
+stunted, starved things, fed on half cooked rice and raw fish.
+
+</p>
+<p>Drunkenness is comparatively rare among the natives; the intoxicating beverage is the &#8220;Tuba,&#8221; which is made about as follows:
+The flowers of the cocoanut are cut while still in bud and the sap, or &#8220;Beno,&#8221; caught in a tube of bamboo; the liquor is gathered
+daily as we gather maple sap and fermented by the addition of a piece of wood, which also imparts a slight color. The product
+of this fermentation is an insidious stimulant. I never tasted it, but one poor soldier told me his sad experience and that
+sufficed. After a particularly hard march, his company came to a halt in a village; he asked for water, but could get only
+this innocent looking &#8220;Beno;&#8221; he took one tiny glass; it tasted like cologne water; his thirst not being quenched, he took
+a second and a third glass, after which he proceeded to make a howling mob of himself. This, since it happened in the face
+of the enemy, with momentary expectation of attack, was a serious offence enough, but coupled with the fact that he was &#8220;on
+guard&#8221; at the time, entailed punishments, the rigor of which, can be guessed only by those familiar with army discipline.
+
+</p>
+<p>Once a party of officers and men were going from one island to another, carrying money and food for the soldiers. It was found,
+after starting, that they were not so heavily guarded as they should be, in view of the fact that they would be exposed to
+attack when in the narrow <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb142" href="#pb142">142</a>]</span>channels between the islands. At one point where they were hemmed in, not only by the islands, but by a number of sailing
+crafts, the Captain, a Filipino, very seriously asked the Paymaster if he had plenty of fire arms; his reply was, &#8220;Oh, muchee
+fusile,&#8221; meaning, &#8220;Oh, very much fire arms.&#8221; To add to the horror of the situation they were becalmed. The Captain became
+very much alarmed and the soldiers more so. Strange to relate, there came a gale of wind that not only blew them out into
+a wider channel beyond the reach of their insurrecto friends, but put them well on their way. This was told me as being almost
+like a miracle. No one can ever realize until they have been caught in one of these terrific gales what their severity is.
+I remember one blast that tore my hair down and swept away every article of loose clothing, also some things that I had just
+purchased; I never saw them again. It would not occur to the natives to return anything that they found, even if they knew
+that they never could use it; they all professed friendship to my face, and were constantly begging for any little article
+that I might have, but they never returned anything they saw me drop or that had been blown away.
+
+</p>
+<p>We had, at one time, a peace society formed, there was an attendance of all the women of Jaro, some from Iloilo, and the President
+was chosen from Molo. I took pleasure in joining this society for the maintenance of peace and fraternal feeling with the
+Filipinos.
+
+</p>
+<p>One day I thought it my duty to call upon the President of the new peace commission. She lived in the town <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb143" href="#pb143">143</a>]</span>of Molo. I invited a native woman to accompany me, and secured a guard of soldiers and an interpreter. Such a commotion as
+the visit created. The interpreter explained that I had called to pay my respects, as I was the only American woman who had
+joined the peace society. The President was pale with fright at my coming, though I had with me a woman whom she knew very
+well. After she had recovered from the shock, we had a very agreeable time. She called in some of her family; one daughter
+played well on the piano, a large grand, and another played upon the violin. In the meantime refreshments were served in lavish
+profusion. They offered <span class="corr" id="xd0e1761" title="Source: mes">me</span> very handsome cloths and embroideries, which I declined with thanks. It is a common custom to make presents.
+
+</p>
+<p>I had agreed with this Filipino friend to exchange views on points of etiquette and social manners. She told me that I had
+committed quite a breach of propriety in allowing the interpreter, who was a soldier, to ride on the front seat of the carriage;
+that it would become known everywhere that she and I actually had a man ride with us. It is not customary for even husbands
+and wives to drive together. My criticism was, &#8220;We do not like the manner of your ladies expectorating. In America we consider
+it a very filthy and offensive habit.&#8221; She was quite surprised that we were so very particular and asked me if we chewed the
+spittle.
+
+</p>
+<p>A large cathedral was situated just across the street, a circumstance that enabled me to witness many ceremonies of the Roman
+church, of whose existence I had no previous knowledge; daily services were held, and all <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb144" href="#pb144">144</a>]</span>the Saints&#8217; days were observed. On festivals of especial importance there were very gorgeous processions. The principal features
+were the bands of music, the choir, acolytes, priests, and rich people,&#8212;the poor have no place&#8212;all arrayed in purple and fine
+linen; gold, silver, pearls, and rare jewels sparkled in the sun by day, or, at night, in the light of the candles and torches
+carried by thousands of men, women and children.
+
+</p>
+<p>It was a trying experience to be awakened from sound sleep by the firing of guns. It was necessary to be always armed and
+ready to receive the &#8220;peaceful people.&#8221; (We read daily in the American papers that all danger was over.)
+
+</p>
+<p>A characteristic feature of each town is a plaza at its center, and here the people have shrines or places of worship at the
+corners, the wealthier people, only, having them in their homes.
+
+</p>
+<p>Smallpox is a disease of such common occurrence that the natives have no dread of it; the mortality from this one cause alone
+is appalling. This brings to mind the funeral ceremony, which, since the natives are all Catholics, is always performed by
+the padre or priest.
+
+</p>
+<p>In red, pink, or otherwise gayly decorated coffin, the corpse, which is often exposed to view and sometimes covered with cheap
+paper flowers, bits of lace and jewelry, is taken to the church, where there are already as many as five or six bodies at
+a time awaiting the arrival of the priest to say prayers and sprinkle holy water upon them. If the family of the deceased
+is too poor to buy or rent a coffin, the body is wrapped in a coarse mat, <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb145" href="#pb145">145</a>]</span>slung on a pole, and carried to the outer door of the church, to have a little water sprinkled thereon or service said over
+it. If the families are unable to rent a spot of earth in the cemetery, their dead are dumped into a pile and left to decay
+and bleach upon the surface. In contrast with this brutal neglect of the poor, is the lavish expenditure of the rich. The
+daughter of one of the wealthy residents having died, the body was placed in a casket elaborately trimmed with blue satin,
+the catafalque also was covered with blue satin and trimmed with ruffles of satin and lace. In the funeral procession, the
+coffin was carried on the shoulders of several young men, while at the sides walked young ladies, each dressed in a blue satin
+gown with a long train and white veil, and each lavishly decorated with precious jewels. They held long, blue satin ribbons
+fastened to the casket. At the door of the church the casket was taken in charge by three priests, attended by thirty or forty
+choir boys, acolytes, and others, and placed upon a black pedestal about thirty feet high and completely surrounded by hundreds
+of candles, many of which were held in gilded figures of cherubim; the whole was surmounted by a flambeau made by immersing
+cotton in alcohol. The general effect was of a huge burning pile. Incense was burned every where in and about the edifice,
+which was elaborately decorated with satin festoons, palms, <span class="corr" id="xd0e1780" title="Source: artifical">artificial</span> flowers, emblems wrought in beads, all in profusion and arranged with native taste. All this, with the intonation of the
+priests, the chanting of the choir, and the blaring of three bands, made a weird and impressive scene never <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb146" href="#pb146">146</a>]</span>to be forgotten. After the ceremony, which lasted about an hour, the body was taken to the cemetery, and, as it was by this
+time quite dark, each person in the procession carried a torch or candle. I noticed quite a number of Chinese among the following,
+evidently friends, and these were arrayed in as gorgeous apparel as the natives. The remains having been disposed of, there
+was a grand reception given in the evening in honor of the deceased.
+
+</p>
+<p>It is customary to have a dance every Sunday evening, and each woman has a chair in which she sits while not dancing. The
+priests not only attend, but participate most heartily.
+
+</p>
+<p>I was told that among the papers captured in Manila was a document which proved to be the last bull issued by the Pope to
+the King of Spain (1895 or 96). This was an agreement between the Pope and the King, whereby the former conveys to the latter
+the right to authorize the sale of indulgences. The King, in turn, sold this right to the padres and friars in the islands.
+Absolution from a lie cost the sinner six pesos, or three dollars in gold; other sins in proportion to their enormity and
+the financial ability of the offender. The annual income of the King of Spain from this system has been estimated at the modest
+figure of ten millions.
+
+</p>
+<p>The discovery of this and other documents is due to a party of interpreters who became greatly fascinated by the unearthing
+process. In the same church in which these were found, the men investigated the gambling tables and found them controlled
+and manipulated from the room below by means of traps, tubes, and other <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb147" href="#pb147">147</a>]</span>appliances. An interesting fact in this connection is that one of the interpreters was himself a Romanist, and loath to believe
+his eyes, but the evidence was convincing, and he was forced to admit it. Gambling is a national custom, deeply rooted.
+
+</p>
+<p>I shall never forget the joy I experienced when we got two milch cows. What visions of milk, cream, and butter,&#8212;fresh butter,
+not canned; then, too, to see the natives milk was truly a diversion; they went at it from the wrong side, stood at as great
+a distance as the length of arms permitted, and in a few seconds were through, having obtained for their trouble about a pint
+of milk&#8212;an excellent milk-man&#8217;s fluid&#8212;a blue and chalky mixture.
+
+</p>
+<p>One day I heard what seemed to be a cry of distress, half human in entreaty, and I rushed to see what could be the matter.
+There, on its back, was a goat being milked; there were four boys, each holding a leg, while the fifth one milked upward into
+a cocoanut shell. It was a ludicrous sight.
+
+</p>
+<p>One of their dainties is cooked grasshoppers, which are sold by the bushel in the markets. I cannot recommend this dish, for
+I never was able to summon sufficient courage to test it, but I should think it would be as delectable as the myriad little
+dried fish which are eaten with garlic as a garnish and flavor.
+
+</p>
+<p>The poor little horses are half starved and otherwise maltreated by the natives, who haven&#8217;t the least idea of how to manage
+them. They beat them to make them go, then pull up sharply on the reins which whirls them <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb148" href="#pb148">148</a>]</span>round and round or plunges them right and left, often into the ditches beside the road. It was no uncommon sight to see officers
+or men getting out of their quielas to push and pull to get the animal started, only to have the driver whip and jerk as before.
+
+</p>
+<p>Some of the natives bought the American horses and it was painful to see them try to make our noble steeds submit to methods
+a la Filipino.
+
+</p>
+<p>Beggars by the thousand were everywhere, blind, lame, and deformed; homeless, they wandered from town to town to beg, especially
+on market days. One blind woman, who lived on the road from Iloilo to Jaro, had collected seventy-five &#8220;mex,&#8221; only to have
+it stolen by her sister. Complaint was made to the military commander, but it was found that the money had been spent and
+that there was no redress to be had. She must continue to beg while her sister lived hard by in the new &#8220;shack&#8221; which she
+had built with the stolen &#8220;denaro&#8221; (money).
+
+</p>
+<p>About three miles from Jaro was quite a leper colony, shunned, of course, by the natives. During confession, the lepers kneeled
+several rods away from the priests. I saw one poor woman whose feet were entirely gone lashed to a board so she could drag
+herself along by the aid of her hands, which had not yet begun to decay.
+
+</p>
+<p>There were no visible means of caring for the sick and afflicted; the insane were kept in stocks or chained to trees, and
+the U. S. hospitals were so overtaxed by the demands made upon them by our own soldiers that little space or attention could
+be spared to the natives. Charity begins at home.
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb149" href="#pb149">149</a>]</span></p>
+<p>God bless the dear women who nursed our sick soldiers; it was my pleasure to know quite intimately several of these girls
+who have made many a poor boy more comfortable. I am proud, too, of our U. S. Army; of course not all of the men were of the
+Sunday School order, but under such great discomforts, in such deadly perils, and among such treacherous people, nothing more
+can be expected of mortal men than they rendered. Many poor boys trusted these natives to their sorrow. They accepted hospitality
+and their death was planned right before their eyes, they, of course, not understanding the language sufficiently to comprehend
+what was intended. They paid the penalty of their trust with their lives.
+
+</p>
+<p>On Decoration Day we were able to make beautiful wreaths and crosses. Our soldiers marched to the cemeteries and placed the
+flowers on the graves of the brave boys who had given their lives in defence of the flag. I had the pleasure of representing
+the mothers, whose spiritual presence was, I felt sure, with those far-away loved ones. An officer has written me that Memorial
+Day was again observed this year, and I am sure it was done fittingly.
+
+</p>
+<p>A Protestant mission was established at Jaro, in a bamboo chapel, pure bamboo throughout, roof, walls, windows, seats, floor.
+The seats, however, were seldom used, for the natives prefer to squat on the floor. The congregation consisted of men, women,
+and children, many of whom came on foot from a distance of twenty or more miles, the older people scantily clad, and the children
+entirely naked; a more attentive audience would be <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb150" href="#pb150">150</a>]</span>hard to find, as all were eager to get the &#8220;cheap religion.&#8221; None of the inhabitants of Jaro attend, as yet; they fear to
+do so, since they are under the strict surveillance of the padre, and are in the shadow of the seminary for priests, the educational
+center of the island of Panay.
+
+</p>
+<p>The Protestant minister is a graduate of this institution and is subject to all imaginable abuses and insults. Under his teachings,
+a great many have been baptized, who seemed devoutly in earnest; it is inspiring to hear them sing with great zeal the familiar
+hymns, &#8220;Rock of Ages,&#8221; &#8220;Safe in the Arms of Jesus,&#8221; etc. One incident will suffice to illustrate the intense and determined
+opposition to Protestantism. One of the native teachers was warned not to return to his home, but, in defiance of all threats,
+he did so, and was murdered before the eyes of his family. I shall expect to hear that many other missionaries have been disposed
+of in a similar manner, after the withdrawal of the American troops.
+
+</p>
+<p>Many ask my opinion as to the value of these possessions; to me they seem rich beyond all estimate. A friend whom I met there,
+a man who has seen practically the whole world, said that, for climate and possibilities, he knew of no country to compare
+with the Philippines.
+
+</p>
+<p>The young generation is greedy for knowledge and anxious to progress, though the older people do not take kindly to innovations,
+but cling to their old superstitions and cruelties. God grant the better day may come soon.
+
+</p>
+<p>There was quite an ambition among the natives to be musical; they picked up quickly, &#8220;by ear,&#8221; some of the catchy things our
+band played. When I heard them <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb151" href="#pb151">151</a>]</span>playing &#8220;A Hot Time in the Old Town To-night,&#8221; on their way to the cemetery, I could not restrain my laughter, and if the
+deceased were of the order of Katapunan the prophecy was fulfilled. Officers informed me that this society was probably the
+worst one ever organized, more deadly than anarchists ever were. It was originated by the Masons, but the priests acquired
+control of it and made it a menace to law and order. I should not have escaped with my life had it not been for one of the
+best friends I have ever known, a &#8220;mestizo,&#8221; part Spanish and part Filipino. She undoubtedly saved my life by declaring that
+before anything was done to me she and her husband must be sacrificed. &#8220;Greater love hath no man than this.&#8221; They were influential
+people throughout the islands, and nothing occurred.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o151.gif" alt="Ornament." width="202" height="105"></div><p>
+
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb152" href="#pb152">152</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch24" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Islands Cebu and Romblom.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty-Four.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he various islands seemed to have their own peculiarities. Cebu is famous for vast quantities of Manila hemp; also for shell
+spoons; these are beautiful, of various sizes, and colors, according to the shell they are cut from. They are especially appropriate
+in serving fish. The abaka-cloth of this island is the finest made, and its pearl fisheries are valuable. In 1901 a lively
+insurrection was going on in Cebu. The banks of the bay were lined with refugees who had come from the inland to be protected
+from their enemies. There were hundreds of them, but not a single cooking utensil amongst them. Some would go up to the market
+place and buy a penny&#8217;s worth of rice skillfully put up in a woven piece of bamboo. And lucky for them if they had the penny.
+The rest spent their time fishing.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p152" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p152.jpg" alt="Facade of Church, Santa Ni&ntilde;a at Cebu, P. I." width="326" height="474"><p class="figureHead">Facade of Church, Santa Ni&ntilde;a at Cebu, P. I.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>The cathedral of Cebu, built of stone, is especially fine. It has for its Patron Saint, a babe, Santa Ni&ntilde;a. The story is that
+at one time there were a great many <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb153" href="#pb153">153</a>]</span>babies stricken with a malady; the parents vowed if the Holy Mother would spare their children they would build this cathedral.
+
+</p>
+<p>One of the largest prisons is at Cebu. We were shown many of the dungeons; there were then confined within those walls many
+very bad Insurrectos.
+
+</p>
+<p>As we were eager to visit one of the large estates, we were given a heavy guard and went inland about two miles from the port;
+it was certainly a fine plantation, much better kept than any I had ever seen before. We were apparently cordially received,
+and were assured if we would only stay we could partake of some of the family pig, that was even then wandering around in
+the best room in the house.
+
+</p>
+<p>The floor of the large reception room was polished as perfectly as a piano top; its boards were at least eighteen inches wide
+and sixteen to twenty feet long. I asked several persons the name of this beautiful place, but could not find out. On the
+sideboard were quantities of fine china and silver that had been received only a few days before from Spain, there was a large
+grand piano, and there were eight or ten chairs in the center of the room forming a hollow square. Here we were seated and
+were offered refreshments of wine, cigars and &#8220;dulce.&#8221; While this place seemed isolated it was not more than ten minutes before
+we had a gathering of several hundred natives, indeed our visit was shortened by the fear that we might be outnumbered and
+captured, and so we hastened back to quarters.
+
+</p>
+<p>While all the islands are tropical in appearance, Cebu <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb154" href="#pb154">154</a>]</span>is pre-eminently luxuriant. We were sorry not to stay longer and learn more of its people and its industries.
+
+</p>
+<p>Romblom is considered by many the most picturesque of the islands. The entrance is certainly beautiful; small ships can come
+up to the dock. The town itself is on the banks of a wonderful stream of water that has been brought down from the hills above.
+There is a finely constructed aqueduct that must have cost the Spaniards a great deal of money, even with cheap labor. It
+is certainly a very delightfully situated little town. This place is famous for its mats; they are woven of every conceivable
+color and texture, and are of all sizes, from those for a child&#8217;s bed to those for the side of a house. The edges of some
+mats are woven to look like lace, and some like embroidery. They range in price from fifty cents to fifty dollars. Every one
+who visits Romblom is sure to bring away a mat.
+
+</p>
+<p>On every island much corn is raised, perhaps for export; certainly the staple is rice. Quite a number of young men who were
+officers in our volunteer regiments, have located on the island of Guimeras, and I have no doubt that, with their New England
+thrift, they will be able to secure magnificent crops. The soil is amazingly rich; under skilled care it will produce a hundred
+fold. Many of the islands are so near to one another that it is an easy matter to pass from island to island.
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb155" href="#pb155">155</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch25" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Literature.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty-Five.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-i.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">I</span>n no house of any town, on any island, nor in the very best houses of the so-called very best families, did I ever see any
+books, newspapers, magazines, periodicals of any kind whatever. One woman triumphantly took out of a box a book, nicely folded
+up in wax paper, a history of the United States, printed in 1840. In a lower room of a large house, once a convent, but now
+occupied by two or three priests, there were perhaps four or five hundred books written in Spanish and Latin on church matters.
+One reason for the dearth of books is the difficulty of protecting them from the ravages of the ants. We found to our horror
+that our books were devoured by them. And then the times were troublous and things were out of joint. In the large seminary
+at Molo, where hundreds of girls are taught every year, I did not see a single book of any kind or any printed matter, except
+a few pamphlets concerning the Roman church. The girls work on embroideries, and surely for <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb156" href="#pb156">156</a>]</span>fineness they surpass all others. They do the most cobweb-like drawn work, and on this are wrought roses, lilies, and butterflies
+with outspread wings that look as if they had just lighted down to sip the nectar from the blossoms; these very fine embroideries
+are done on the pi&ntilde;a cloth. It is no wonder that the people would get even the advertisements on our canned goods and ask
+any American whom they met what the letters were and what the words meant. Our empty cans with tomato, pear, peach labels
+were to them precious things. Whereever our soldiers were, the adults and the children crowded around them and impromptu classes
+were formed to spell out all the American words they could find; even the newspaper wrappers and the letter envelopes, that
+were thrown away, were carefully picked up so as to glean the meaning of these &#8220;Americano&#8221; words. There was near our quarters
+a very large building that was used for the education of boys; one can form some idea of the size of this building when two
+or three regiments were encamped there with all their equipments.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p155-1" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p155-1.jpg" alt="Typical Native House. Costs About One Dollar." width="466" height="321"><p class="figureHead">Typical Native House. Costs About One Dollar.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>There may have been books here, once, but nothing was left when our troops occupied it except a few pictures on the walls,
+a few tables and desks, a few chairs and sleeping mats.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p155-2" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p155-2.jpg" alt="Carabao Cart." width="464" height="318"><p class="figureHead"><span class="corr" id="xd0e1886" title="Source: Caribou">Carabao</span> Cart.
+</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>There was a little story in connection with the bell tower on one side of the plaza in Jaro; this tower was about eighty feet
+high, had a roof and niches for seven or eight good sounding bells. From the top of this tower one could see many miles in
+every direction; when the Philippine army fled from the town they immediately <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb157" href="#pb157">157</a>]</span>thought our soldiers might ascend the tower and watch their course, so they burned the staircases. Alas for the little children
+who had taken refuge in the tower! As the flames swept up the stairways, they fled before them; two of them actually clung
+to the clapper of one great bell, and there they hung until its frame was burned away and the poor little things fell with
+the falling bell. Their remains were found later by our soldiers, the small hands still faithful to their hold. The bells
+were in time replaced and doubtless still chime out the hours of the day. It is the duty of one man to attend to the bells;
+the greater the festival day the oftener and longer they ring. When they rang a special peal for some special service, I tried
+to attend. One day there was an unusual amount of commotion and clanging, so I determined to go over to the service. Hundreds
+of natives had gathered together. To my surprise, six natives came in bearing on their shoulders a bamboo pole; from this
+pole a hammock was suspended, in which some one was reclining; but over the entire person, hammock, and pole, was thrown a
+thick bamboo net, entirely concealing all within; it was taken up to the chancel and whoever was in that hammock was given
+the sacrament. He was, no doubt, some eminent civilian or officer, for the vast congregation rose to their feet when the procession
+came in and when it passed out. I asked two or three of the Filipino women, whom I knew well, who it was, but they professed
+not to know. They always treated me with respect when I attended any of their services and placed a chair for me. I noticed
+how few carried books <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb158" href="#pb158">158</a>]</span>to church. I do not believe I ever saw a dozen books in the hands of worshipers in any of the cathedrals, and I visited a
+great many, five on Palm Sunday, 1900. I know from the children themselves, and from their teachers, that there are complaints
+about the size of the books and about the number which they have to get their lessons from in the new schools.
+
+</p>
+<p>There are three American newspapers in Manila, and one American library. The grand success of the library more than repays
+all the cost and trouble of establishing it. One must experience it to know the joy of getting letters, magazines, papers,
+and books that come once or twice a month, only. It really seemed when the precious mail bags were opened that their treasures
+were too sacred to be even handled. We were so hungry and thirsty for news from home, for reading matter in this bookless
+country, where even a primer would have been a prize.
+
+</p>
+<p>I alternated between passive submission to island laziness, shiftlessness, slovenliness, dirt, and active assertion of Ohio
+vim. Sick of vermin and slime, I would take pail, scrubbing brush and lye, and fall to; sick of it all, I would get a Summit
+county breakfast, old fashioned pan cakes for old times&#8217; sake; sick of the native laundress who cleansed nothing, I would
+give an Akron rub myself to my own clothes and have something fit to wear. These attacks of energy depended somewhat on the
+temperature, somewhat on exhausted patience, somewhat on homesickness, but most on dread of revolt and attack; or of sickening
+news&#8212;not of battle, but of assassination <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb159" href="#pb159">159</a>]</span>and mutilation. Whether I worked or rested, I was careful to sit or stand close to a wall&#8212;to guard against a stab in the back.
+I smile now, not gaily, at the picture of myself over a washtub, a small dagger in my belt, a revolver on a stool within easy
+reach of my steady, right hand, rubbing briskly while the tears of homesickness rolled down in uncontrollable floods, but
+singing, nevertheless, with might and main:&#8212;
+
+
+</p>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="line">&#8220;Am I a soldier of the Cross,
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 2em; ">A follower of the Lamb?</p>
+<p class="line">And shall I fear to own His cause,
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 2em; ">Or blush to speak His name?</p>
+</div>
+<div class="poem">
+<p class="line">&#8220;Must I be carried to the skies
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 2em; ">On flowery beds of ease,</p>
+<p class="line">While others fought to win the prize,
+
+</p>
+<p class="line" style="text-indent: 2em; ">And sailed through bloody seas?&#8221;</p>
+</div>
+<p>Singing as triumphantly as possible to the last verse and word of that ringing hymn. My door and windows were set thick with
+wondering faces and staring eyes, a Se&ntilde;ora washing. These Americans were past understanding! And that revolver&#8212;they shivered
+as they looked at it, and not one doubted that it would be vigorously used if needed. And I looked at them, saying to myself,
+as I often did, &#8220;You poor miserable creatures, utterly neglected, utterly ignorant and degraded.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>No wonder that the diseased, the deformed, the blind, the one-toed, the twelve-toed, and monstrous parts and organs are the
+rule rather than the exception. These things are true of nine-tenths of this people.
+
+
+
+
+</p>
+<div class="blockquote" id="p159">
+<p class="aligncenter">THE ADVERTISER.
+
+</p>
+<p class="aligncenter">ILOILO 25th. NOVEMBER 1899.
+
+</p>
+<p class="aligncenter">EXTRA.
+
+</p>
+<p>Reuter&#8217;s Telegrams.
+
+
+</p>
+<p>THE TRANSVAAL WAR.
+
+</p>
+<p>LONDON 25th. Novr.&#8212;The British losses at Belmont are stated at 48 killed, 146 wounded, and 21 missing. The losses include
+four Officers killed and 21 wounded and are chiefly Guardsmen.
+
+</p>
+<p>50 Boers were taken prisoner, including the German commandant and six Field Cornets.
+
+</p>
+<p>The British Infantry are said to have behaved splendidly and were admirably <span class="corr" id="xd0e1941" title="Source: suported">supported</span> by the Artillery and the Naval Brigade, carrying three Ridges successively. The Victory is a most complete one. It is stated
+that the enemy fought with the greatest courage and skill.
+</p>
+</div><p>
+
+</p>
+<p class="aligncenter">This Extra was Issued Daily&#8212;Eighty-four Mexican Dollars per Year.
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb160" href="#pb160">160</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch26" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">The Gordon Scouts.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty-Six.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he Gordon Scouts were a detachment <span class="corr" id="xd0e1955" title="Source: make">made</span> up of volunteers from the Eighteenth U. S. Infantry. They were under direct command of Captain W. A. Gordon and Lieutenant
+A. L. Conger. The captain lost health and was sent home; thus the troop was, for about a year, under the command of Lieutenant
+Conger. It would not be proper for me to tell of the wonderful expeditions and the heroic deeds of the Gordon Scouts. No one
+was more generous in praise of them than General Del Gardo, now governor of the Island of Panay. He told me often of his great
+esteem for my son and of the generous way in which he treated his prisoners and captives. Surely men were never kinder to
+a woman than these scouts were to me; they most affectionately called me Mother Conger and treated me always with the greatest
+respect and kindness. I hope some day the history of this brave band of men will be written, with its more than romantic campaigns
+and wonderful exploits, marches, dangers, and miraculous escapes. Few men were wounded <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb161" href="#pb161">161</a>]</span>or disabled, notwithstanding all the tedious marches in most impenetrable swamps and mountains, with no guide but the stars
+by night and the sun by day, and no maps or trusted men to guide them. I recall the bravery of one man who was shot through
+the abdomen, and when they stopped to carry him away he said, &#8220;Leave me here; I cannot live, and you may all be captured or
+killed.&#8221; They tenderly placed him in a blanket, carried him to a place of safety, and, when he died, they brought him back
+to Jaro and buried him with military honors. He was the only man killed in all the months of their arduous tasks.
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p160" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p160.jpg" alt="Collier. Craig." width="591" height="576"><p class="figureHead">Collier. Craig.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>If I have any courage I owe it to my grandmother. I will perhaps be pardoned if I say that all my girlhood life was spent
+with my Grandmother Bronson, a very small <span class="corr" id="xd0e1967" title="Source: women">woman</span>, weighing less than ninety pounds, small featured, always quaintly dressed in the old-fashioned Levantine silk with two breadths
+only in the skirt, a crossed silk handkerchief with a small white one folded neatly across her breast, a black silk apron,
+dainty cap made of sheer linen lawn with full ruffles. She it was who entered into all my child life and who used to tell
+me of her early pioneer days, and of her wonderful experiences with the Indians. In the War of 1812, fearing for his little
+family, my grandfather started her back to Connecticut on horse back with her four little children, the youngest, my father,
+only six months old. The two older children walked part of the way; whoever rode had to carry the baby and the next smallest
+child rode on a pillion that was tied to the saddle. In this way she accomplished <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb162" href="#pb162">162</a>]</span>the long journey from Cleveland, Ohio, to Connecticut. When she used to tell me of the wonderful things that happened on this
+tedious journey, that took weeks and weeks to accomplish, I used to wonder if I should ever take so long a trip. I take pleasure
+in presenting the dearly loved grandmother of eighty-one and the little girl of ten.
+
+</p>
+<p>While my dear little grandmother dreaded the Indians, I did the treacherous Filipinos; while she dreaded the wolves, bears
+and wild beasts, I did the stab of the ever ready bolo and stealthy natives, and the prospect of fire; she endured the pangs
+of hunger, so did I; and I now feel that I am worthy to be her descendant and to sit by her side.
+
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/o162.gif" alt="Ornament." width="299" height="84"></div><p>
+
+
+
+<span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb163" href="#pb163">163</a>]</span></p>
+</div>
+<div id="ch27" class="div1"><span class="pagenum">
+[<a href="#toc">Contents</a>]
+</span><h2 class="normal">Trials of Getting Home.</h2>
+<h2 class="label">Chapter Twenty-Seven.</h2>
+<p style="&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat top left;&#xA; "><span style="&#xA; float: left;&#xA; width: 100px;&#xA; height: 130px;&#xA; background: url(images/initial-t.gif) no-repeat;&#xA; &#xA; text-align: right;&#xA; color: white;&#xA; ">T</span>he first stages of my return home were from Iloilo to Manila, and thence to Nagasaki, the chief port of Japan. Upon leaving
+Iloilo for Manila, my son accompanied me as far as Manila; he heard incidentally that he was to be made a staff officer; as
+I procured quick transportation as far as Nagasaki, I told him to return to his duties and I would get along some way. Upon
+reaching Nagasaki, the difficulties began. I went immediately to the various offices of steamship lines and found there was
+no passage of any grade to be had. Many were fleeing from the various ports to get away from the plague and all steamers were
+crowded because of the reduced rates to the Pan-American Fair. Thinking I might have a better chance from Yokohama, I took
+passage up there on the North German Lloyd line. I had a splendid state-room, fine service, the best of everything. I told
+the purser I should like to engage that same state-room back to Liverpool; he replied he could <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb164" href="#pb164">164</a>]</span>not take me, that I would not live to get there. I assured him that I was a good sailor, that I was very much emaciated with
+my long stay in the Philippines, that I would soon recover with his good food and the sea air; but he refused to take me.
+When I reached Yokohama, I immediately began to see if I could not secure sailing from there; day after day went by, it was
+the old story, everything taken. When the Gaelic was returning I told the captain that I would be willing to take even third
+cabin at first class rates, but even thus there were no accommodations. Within an hour of the ship&#8217;s sailing, word was brought
+to me that two women had given up their cabin and that I might have it; it was two miles out to the ship, with no sampan&#8212;small
+boat&#8212;of any kind to get my baggage out, so I tearfully saw this ship sail away. I then decided to return to Nagasaki to try
+again from that port. The voyage back was by the Empress line of steamers flying between <span class="corr" id="xd0e1989" title="Source: Vancover">Vancouver</span> and Yokohama. Upon reaching Nagasaki again I appealed to the quarter-master to secure transportation; he said I could not
+get anything at all. Officers whom I had met in the Philippines proposed to take me and my baggage on board without the necessary
+red tape, in fact to make me a stow-away, but I refused. I cabled my son in New York to see if I could get a favorable order
+from Washington. I cabled Governor Taft, but he was powerless in the great pressure of our returning troops. In the meantime,
+I was daily growing weaker from the excitement and worry of being unable to do anything at all. The housekeeper of the very
+well-kept Nagasaki hotel was <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb165" href="#pb165">165</a>]</span>especially kind. She gave me very good attention and even the Chinese boy who took care of my room and brought my meals realized
+the desperate condition I was in. One day, with the deepest kind of solicitude on his otherwise stolid but child-like and
+bland face, he said:&#8212;
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p162" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p162.jpg" alt="Emily Bronson. Mary Hickox Bronson." width="586" height="624"><p class="figureHead">Emily Bronson. Mary Hickox Bronson.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Mrs., you no got husband?&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;No.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;You no got all same boys.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Yes,<span class="corr" id="xd0e2007" title="Source: &#8221;"></span> I have three nice boys.&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;Why no then you three boys not come and help poor sick mother go home to die?&#8221;
+
+</p>
+<p>Captain John E. Weber, of the Thirty-Eighth Volunteers returning home on transport Logan, insisted upon my taking his state
+room. The quarter-master, who had refused me so many times before, thought that he could not allow it, anything so out of
+the &#8220;general routine of business;&#8221; but Captain Weber said, &#8220;On no account will I leave you here, after all your faithful service
+in the Philippines to myself, other officers, and hundreds of boys.<span class="corr" id="xd0e2013" title="Not in source">&#8221;</span> I had one of the best state rooms on the upper deck and received the most kindly attentions from many on board; the quarter-master
+had been a personal friend of my husband in other and happier days. On the homeward way, the ship took what is known as the
+northern course; she made no stop between Nagasaki and San Francisco. We went far enough north to see the coast of Alaska.
+We saw many whales and experienced much cold weather. In my low state of vitality I suffered from the cold, but not from sea
+sickness. I did not miss a single meal en route during the twenty-four sailing days of the ship. They <span class="pagenum">[<a id="pb166" href="#pb166">166</a>]</span>were days of great pleasure. We had social games and singing, and religious services on Sunday. There were a great many sick
+soldiers in the ship&#8217;s hospital; three dying during the voyage. On reaching San Francisco the ship was placed in quarantine
+the usual number of days, but there was no added delay as there were on board no cases of infectious disease. Mrs. General
+Funston was one of the passengers and was greeted most cordially by the friends and neighbors of this, her native state. Upon
+my declaring to the custom house officers that I had been two years in the Philippines and had nothing for sale they immediately
+passed my baggage without any trouble. My son in New York, to whom I had cabled from Nagasaki, had never received my message,
+so there was no one to meet me, but I was so thankful to be in dear, blessed America that it was joy enough. No, not enough
+until I reached my own beloved home. Had it been possible I would have kissed every blade of grass on its grounds, and every
+leaf on its trees.
+
+</p>
+<p>I am not ashamed to say that July 10th, the day of my home coming, I knelt down and kissed with unspeakable gratitude and
+love its dear earth and once more thanked God that His hand had led me&#8212;led me home.
+
+</p>
+<p>&#8220;<span class="smallcaps">Adious.</span>&#8221;
+
+
+</p>
+<p></p>
+<div id="p167" class="figure"><img border="0" src="images/p167.jpg" alt="Adious." width="674" height="454"><p class="figureHead">Adious.</p>
+</div><p>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<div class="back">
+<div class="transcribernote">
+<h2>Colophon</h2>
+<h3>Availability</h3>
+<p>This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give
+it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/">www.gutenberg.org</a>.
+
+</p>
+<p>This eBook is produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at <a href="http://www.pgdp.net/">www.pgdp.net</a>.
+
+</p>
+<h3>Encoding</h3>
+<p>This text is produced from various scans available at the Internet Archive and Google Books.
+<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=3G7eIrJzRpsC">GB 1</a> (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/anohiowomaninph01conggoog">TIA</a>),
+<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=4AimldLF08wC">GB 2</a> (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/anohiowomaninph00conggoog">TIA</a>),
+<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/ohiowomaninphili00cong">TIA 1</a>,
+<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/ohiowomaninphili04cong">TIA 2</a>,
+<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/ohiowomaninphili00congrich">TIA 3</a>. A further copy is available at <a href="http://digital.library.cornell.edu/cgi/t/text/text-idx?c=sea;idno=sea198">Cornell University</a>.
+
+</p>
+<p>Obvious spelling mistakes in the text have been corrected. This includes the curious use of the word <i>caribou</i> for <i>carabao</i> throughout the text.
+
+
+</p>
+<h3>Revision History</h3>
+<ol class="lsoff">
+<li>2009-04-19 Started.
+
+</li>
+</ol>
+<h3>External References</h3>
+<p>This Project Gutenberg eBook contains external references. These links may not work for you.</p>
+<h3>Corrections</h3>
+<p>The following corrections have been applied to the text:</p>
+<table width="75%">
+<tr>
+<th>Page</th>
+<th>Source</th>
+<th>Correction</th>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e438">5</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e446">5</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e477">5</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e638">18</a></td>
+<td width="40%">wistaria</td>
+<td width="40%">wisteria</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e677">22</a></td>
+<td width="40%">indispensible</td>
+<td width="40%">indispensable</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e694">24</a></td>
+<td width="40%">preson</td>
+<td width="40%">person</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e701">25</a></td>
+<td width="40%">cooly</td>
+<td width="40%">coolie</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e712">26</a></td>
+<td width="40%">capitol</td>
+<td width="40%">capital</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e738">29</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Buddist</td>
+<td width="40%">Buddhist</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e938">52</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e943">52</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e965">54</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Bilibeb</td>
+<td width="40%">Bilibid</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1055">64</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1099">70</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1110">71</a></td>
+<td width="40%">sowsow</td>
+<td width="40%">sow-sow</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1135">74</a></td>
+<td width="40%">at </td>
+<td width="40%">
+[<i>Deleted</i>]
+
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1246">86</a></td>
+<td width="40%">villians</td>
+<td width="40%">villains</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1277">89</a></td>
+<td width="40%">varities</td>
+<td width="40%">varieties</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1316">93</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1394">102</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1404">103</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1410">103</a></td>
+<td width="40%">soons</td>
+<td width="40%">soon</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1426">104</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1429">104</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1434">104</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1437">104</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1442">105</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1448">105</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1473">107</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1488">110</a></td>
+<td width="40%">The</td>
+<td width="40%">They</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1511">112</a></td>
+<td width="40%">caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1580">122</a></td>
+<td width="40%">deseased</td>
+<td width="40%">diseased</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1603">125</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Senora</td>
+<td width="40%">Se&ntilde;ora</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1736">140</a></td>
+<td width="40%">towls</td>
+<td width="40%">towels</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1761">143</a></td>
+<td width="40%">mes</td>
+<td width="40%">me</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1780">145</a></td>
+<td width="40%">artifical</td>
+<td width="40%">artificial</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1886">156</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Caribou</td>
+<td width="40%">Carabao</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1941">159</a></td>
+<td width="40%">suported</td>
+<td width="40%">supported</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1955">160</a></td>
+<td width="40%">make</td>
+<td width="40%">made</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1967">161</a></td>
+<td width="40%">women</td>
+<td width="40%">woman</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e1989">164</a></td>
+<td width="40%">Vancover</td>
+<td width="40%">Vancouver</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2007">165</a></td>
+<td width="40%">&#8221;</td>
+<td width="40%">
+[<i>Deleted</i>]
+
+</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td width="20%"><a class="pageref" href="#xd0e2013">165</a></td>
+<td width="40%">
+[<i>Not in source</i>]
+
+</td>
+<td width="40%">&#8221;</td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Ohio Woman in the Philippines, by 
+Emily Bronson Conger
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+Project Gutenberg's An Ohio Woman in the Philippines, by Emily Bronson Conger
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: An Ohio Woman in the Philippines
+       Giving personal experiences and descriptions including
+       incidents of Honolulu, ports in Japan and China
+
+Author: Emily Bronson Conger
+
+Release Date: April 20, 2009 [EBook #28580]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN OHIO WOMAN IN THE PHILIPPINES ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at
+http://www.pgdp.net/
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                    An Ohio Woman in the Philippines
+
+              Giving Personal Experiences and Descriptions
+                    Including Incidents of Honolulu,
+                        Ports in Japan and China
+
+
+
+                       Mrs. Emily Bronson Conger
+
+                      Published with illustrations
+
+
+
+
+                                  1904
+                      Press of Richard H. Leighton
+                              Akron, Ohio
+
+
+
+
+TO HIS DEAR MEMORY.
+
+
+    To my beloved husband,
+        ARTHUR LATHAM CONGER,
+    whose love was--Is my sweetest incentive;
+    whose approval was--Is my richest reward.
+            Mizpah,
+                EMILY BRONSON CONGER.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+INDEX
+
+
+
+                                           PAGES
+
+    Out of the Golden Gate                    7-14
+    First Glimpses of Japan                  15-20
+    From Yokohama to Tokio                   21-25
+    Tokio                                    26-33
+    Japan in General                         34-41
+    In Shanghai                              42-49
+    Hong Kong to Manila                      50-55
+    Iloilo and Jaro                          56-66
+    The Natives                              67-77
+    Wooings and Weddings                     78-82
+    My First Fourth in the Philippines       83-88
+    Flowers, Fruits and Berries              89-92
+    The Markets                              93-95
+    Philippine Agriculture                  96-100
+    Minerals                               101-103
+    Animals                                104-106
+    Amusements and Street Parades          107-110
+    Festivals of the Church                111-114
+    Osteopathy                             115-122
+    The McKinley Campaign                  123-125
+    Governor Taft at Jaro                  126-132
+    Shipwreck                              133-138
+    Filipino Domestic Life                 139-151
+    Islands Cebu and Romblom               152-154
+    Literature                             155-159
+    The Gordon Scouts                      160-162
+    Trials of Getting Home                 163-166
+
+
+
+
+
+
+OUT OF THE GOLDEN GATE.
+
+CHAPTER ONE.
+
+
+With the words ringing out over the clear waters of San Francisco
+Bay as the Steamer Morgan City pulled from the dock, "Now, mother,
+do be sure and take the very next boat and come to me," I waved a yes
+as best I could, and, turning to my friends, said: "I am going to the
+Philippines; but do not, I beg of you, come to the dock to see me off."
+
+I did not then realize what it meant to start alone. I vowed to
+stay in my cabin during the entire trip, but, as we steamed out of
+the Golden Gate, there was an invitation to come forth, a prophesy
+of good, a promise to return, in the glory of the last rays of the
+setting sun as they traced upon the portals, "We shall be back in the
+morning." And so I set out with something of cheer and hope, in spite
+of all the remonstrances, all the woeful prognostications of friends.
+
+If I could not find something useful to do for my boy and for other
+boys, I could accept the appointment of nurse from the Secretary
+of War, General Russell A. Alger. But, if it proved practicable,
+I preferred to be under no obligations to render service, for my
+health was poor, my strength uncertain.
+
+The sail from San Francisco to Honolulu was almost without incident;
+few of the two thousand souls on board were ill at all. They divided
+up into various cliques and parties, such as are usually made up on
+ocean voyages. When we arrived at Honolulu, I did not expect to land,
+but I was fortunate in having friends of my son's, Hon. J. Mott Smith,
+Secretary of State, and family meet me, and was taken to his more
+than delightful home and very generously, royally entertained.
+
+My impressions were, as we entered the bay, that the entire population
+of Honolulu was in the water. There seemed to be hundreds of little
+brown bodies afloat just like ducks.
+
+The passengers threw small coins into the bay, and those aquatic,
+human bodies would gather them before they could reach the bottom.
+
+The city seemed like one vast tropical garden, with its waving palms,
+gorgeous foliage and flowers, gaily colored birds and spicy odors,
+but mingled with the floral fragrance were other odors that betokened
+a foreign population.
+
+It was my first experience in seeing all sorts and conditions of
+people mingling together--Chinese, Japanese, Hawaiians, English,
+Germans and Americans. Then the manner of dress seemed so strange,
+especially for the women; they wore a garment they call halicoes like
+the Mother Hubbard that we so much deride.
+
+We visited the palace of the late Queen, Liliuokalani
+(le-le-uo-ka-la-ne), now turned into a government building; saw the
+old throne room and the various articles that added to the pomp and
+vanity of her reign. I heard only favorable comments on her career. All
+seemed to think that she had been a wise and considerate ruler.
+
+I noticed many churches of various denominations, but was
+particularly interested in my own, the Protestant Episcopal. The
+Rt. Rev. H. C. Potter, Bishop of New York, and his secretary,
+Rev. Percy S. Grant, were passengers on board our ship, the Gaelic. The
+special purpose of the Bishop's visit to Honolulu was to effect
+the transfer of the Episcopal churches of the Sandwich Islands to
+the jurisdiction of our House of Bishops. He expressed himself as
+delighted with his cordial reception and with the ready, Christian-like
+manner with which the Supervision yielded. The success of his delicate
+mission was due, on Bishop Potter's side, to the wise and fraternal
+presentation of his cause and to his charming wit and courtesy.
+
+It was still early morning when my friends with a pair of fine horses
+drove from the shore level by winding roads up through the foot hills,
+ever up and up above the luxuriant groves of banana and cocoanut, the
+view widening, and the masses of rich foliage growing denser below or
+broadening into the wide sugar plantations that surrounded palatial
+homes. We returned for luncheon and I noted that not one house had
+a chimney, that every house was protected with mosquito netting;
+porches, doors, windows, beds, all carefully veiled.
+
+After dinner we again set forth with a pair of fresh horses and drove
+for miles along the coast, visiting some of the beautiful places that
+we had already seen from the heights. The beauty of gardens, vines,
+flowers, grasses, hills, shores, ocean was bewildering. In the city
+itself are a thousand objects of interest, of which not the least is
+the market.
+
+I had never seen tropical fish before, and was somewhat surprised by
+the curious shapes and varied colors of the hundreds and thousands of
+fish exposed for sale. I do not think there was a single color scheme
+that was not carried out in that harvest of the sea. Fruits and flowers
+were there, too, in heaps and masses at prices absurdly low. With the
+chatter of the natives and the shrill cry of the fishermen as they
+came in with their heavily laden boats, the scene was one never to
+be forgotten.
+
+The natives have a time honored custom of crowning their friends at
+leave-taking with "Lais" (lays). These garlands are made by threading
+flowers on a string about a yard and a half long, usually each string
+is of one kind of flower, and, as they throw these "Lais" over the
+head of the friend about to leave, they say or sing, "Al-o-ah-o,
+until we meet again."
+
+This musical score is the greeting of good-day, good-morning, or
+good-bye; always the greeting of friends. They chose for me strings
+of purple and gold flowers. The golden ones were a sort of wax begonia
+and the purple were almost like a petunia.
+
+Instead of sitting on the deck of the steamer by myself, as I had
+purposed, I had one of the most delightful days I have ever spent
+in my life. It was with deep regret, when the boat pulled from the
+wharf, that I answered with the newly acquired song, "Al-o-ah-o,"
+the kindly voices wafted from the shore. We had taken on board many
+new passengers, and were now very closely packed in, so much so,
+that to our great disgust one family, a Chinaman, his wife, children
+and servants, fourteen in number, occupied one small stateroom. It is
+easy to believe that that room was full and overflowing into the narrow
+hallways. Though he had eight or nine children and one or two wives,
+he said he was going to China to get himself one more wife, because the
+one that he had with him did bite the children so much and so badly.
+
+I had never before seen so many various kinds of Chinese people,
+and it was a curious study each day to watch them at their various
+duties in caring for one another and preparing their food. Strange
+concoctions were some of those meals. They all ate with chop-sticks,
+and I never did find out how they carried to the mouth the amount
+of food consumed each day. One day we heard a great commotion down
+in their quarters, and, of course, all rushed to see what was the
+matter. We were passing the spot where, years before, a ship had sunk
+with a great number of Chinese on board. Our Chinese were sending off
+fire crackers and burning thousands and thousands of small papers of
+various colors and shapes, with six to ten holes in each paper. Some
+were burning incense and praying before their Joss. The interpreter
+told us that every time a steamer passes they go through these rites to
+keep the Devils away from the souls of the shipwrecked Chinese. Before
+any Evil Spirit can reach a soul it must go through each one of the
+holes in the burnt papers that were cast overboard.
+
+Bishop Potter asked us one day if we thought those Chinese people
+were our brethren. I am sure it took some Christian charity to decide
+that they were. One of these "brethren" was a Salvation Army man,
+who was married to an American woman. They were living in heathen
+quarters between decks and each day labored to teach the way of
+salvation. Many of these poor people died during the passage; the
+bodies were placed in boxes to be carried to their native land. A
+large per cent. of the whole number seemed to be going home to die,
+so emaciated and feeble were they.
+
+There was fitted up in one of the bunks in the hold of the vessel a
+Joss house. I did not dare to see it, but I learned that there was
+the usual pyramid of shelves containing amongst them the gods of War
+and Peace. Before each god is a small vessel of sand to hold the Joss
+sticks, a perfumed taper to be burned in honor of the favorite deity,
+and there is often added a cup of tea and a portion of rice. There are
+no priests or preachers, but some man buys the privilege of running
+the Joss house, and charges each worshipper a small fee. The devotee
+falls on his knees, lays his forehead to the floor, and invocates
+the god of his choice. Soothsayers are always in attendance, and for
+a small sum one may know his future.
+
+As between Chinese and Japanese, for fidelity, honesty, veracity and
+uprightness, my impression is largely in favor of the Chinese as a
+race. Captain Finch told me that on this ship, the Gaelic, over which he
+had had charge for the past fifteen years, he had had, as head waiter,
+the same Chinaman that he started out with, and in all this period
+of service he never had occasion to question the integrity of this
+most faithful servant, who in the entire time had not been absent
+from the ship more than three days in all. On these rare occasions,
+this capable man had left for his substitute such minute instructions
+on bits of rice paper, placed where needed, that the work was carried
+on smoothly without need of supervision or other direction. The same
+holds true of Chinese servants on our Pacific coast. I was much pleased
+with the attention they gave each and every one of us during the entire
+trip; it was better service than any that I have ever seen on Atlantic
+ships. In the whole month's trip, I never heard one word of complaint.
+
+Being a good sailor, I can hardly judge as to the "Peacefulness of
+the Pacific." Many were quite ill when to me there was only a gentle
+roll of the steamer, soothing to the nerves, and the splash of the
+waves only lulled me to sleep.
+
+By day there were many entertainments, such as races, walking matches,
+quoits, and like games. Commander J. V. Bleecker, en route to take
+charge of the Mercedes reclaimed in Manila Bay, was a masterly artist
+in sleight-of-hand performances, and contributed much to the fun.
+
+Often the evenings were enlivened with concerts and
+readings. Col. J. H. Bird, of New York, gave memorized passages from
+Shakespeare--scenes, acts, and even entire plays in perfect voice
+and character. We thought we were most fortunate in the opportunity
+to enjoy his clever rendition of several comedies.
+
+But to one passenger, at least, the best and sweetest ministrations
+of all were the religious services. Bishop Potter took part in all
+wholesome amusements. He was often the director; he was the delightful
+chairman at all our musical and literary sessions; but it was in sacred
+service that his noble spiritual powers found expression. One calm,
+radiant Sunday morning he spoke with noblest eloquence on these words
+of the one hundred thirty-ninth psalm:--
+
+
+    Whither shall I go from thy spirit? or whither shall I flee
+                                                     from thy presence?
+    If I ascend up into heaven thou art there; if I make my bed
+                                        in hell, behold thou art there!
+    If I take the wings of the morning and dwell in the uttermost
+                                                       part of the sea;
+    Even there shall thy hand lead me and thy right hand shall hold me.
+
+
+Fifteen months later, when wrecked on the coast of Panay, his clear
+voice again sounded in my soul with the assurance, "Even there shall
+thy hand lead me, and thy right hand shall hold me."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FIRST GLIMPSES OF JAPAN.
+
+CHAPTER TWO.
+
+
+But for all our devices to while away the time, the thirty-two days of
+ship life was to all of us the longest month of our lives. The Pacific,
+as Mr. Peggotty says, is "a mort of water," a vast, desolate waste of
+waters from Honolulu to our first landing place, Yokohama. We had a
+wonderful glimpse of the sacred mountain, Fujiyama. The snow-capped
+peak stood transfigured as it caught full the rays of the descending
+sun. Cone-shaped, triangular, perhaps; what was it like, this gleaming
+silhouette against the deep blue sky? Was it a mighty altar, symbol
+of earth's need of sacrifice, or emblem of the unity of the ever
+present triune God? 'Tis little wonder that it is, to the people
+over whom it stands guard, an object of reverence, of worship; that
+pilgrimages are made to its sacred heights; that yearly many lives
+are sacrificed in the toilsome ascent on bare feet, on bare knees.
+
+As we went through Japan's inland sea, one of the most beautiful bodies
+of water on the globe, it seemed, at times, as if we might reach out
+and shake hands with the natives in their curious houses, we passed
+so near to them--the odd little houses, unlike any we had ever seen;
+while about us was every known kind of Japanese craft with curious
+sails of every conceivable kind and shape. On the overloaded boats
+the curious little Japanese sailors, oddly dressed in thick padded
+coverings and bowl caps on their heads, with nothing on limbs and
+feet save small straw sandals, strapped to the feet between great
+and second toes, looked top-heavy.
+
+While I watched all these new things, I was eagerly on the lookout for
+the wreck of the Morgan City, on which my son had sailed. Nothing was
+visible of the ill-fated ship but a single spar, one long finger of
+warning held aloft. As we passed on, watching the busy boats plying
+from shore to shore, the Chinese on the boat chattered and jabbered
+faster with each other than before; we fancied they were making fun of
+their little Japanese brethren. We arrived at Yokohama about 9 P. M.,
+and were immediately placed in quarantine. The next morning a dozen
+Japanese quarantine officers appeared, covered all over with straps
+and bands of gold lace. They looked so insignificant and put on such
+an air of austere authority that one did not know whether to laugh or
+cry at their pomposity. They checked us off by squads and dozens, and
+by 12 o'clock we were ready to land. It was our first touch of Japanese
+soil, and we were about to take our first ride in a Jinricksha. It was
+very beautiful to hear as a greeting, "Ohio." As I had been told by
+a Japanese student, whom I met in Cambridge, Mass., that this is the
+national greeting, I was not unprepared as was a fellow passenger,
+who said, "Oh, he must know where you came from." My height and my
+white hair seemed to make me an object of interest. It was such a
+novel thing to be hauled around in those two-wheeled carts, one man
+pulling at the thills and another pushing at the rear. It is a fine
+experience, and one which we all enjoyed. The whole outfit is hired
+by the day for about a dollar, the price depending upon the amount
+of Pigeon English the leader can speak. The first thing they say to
+you is, "Me can speak English." We found the hotel admirably kept.
+
+The blind Japanese are an interesting class. They are trained at
+government cost to give massage treatment, and no others are allowed
+to practice. These blind nurses, male and female, go about the streets
+in care of an attendant, playing a plaintive tune on a little reed
+whistle in offer of their services. The treatment is delightful,
+the sensation is wholly new, and is most restful and invigorating
+after a long voyage.
+
+No wonder that so many of the Japs are weak-eyed or totally blind. The
+children are exposed to the intense rays of the sun, as, suspended on
+their mothers' backs, they dangle in their straps with their little
+heads wabbling helplessly. From friends who have kept house many years,
+I learned that the service rendered by the Japanese is, as a whole,
+unsatisfactory. Their cooking is entirely different from ours, and
+they do not willingly adapt themselves to our mode of living.
+
+It is not my purpose to tell much about Japan and China; they were only
+stages on the way to the Philippines; and yet they were a preparation
+for the new, strange life there. But such is the charm of Japan that
+one's memories cling to its holiday scenes and life.
+
+The Japanese are really wise in beginning their New Year in spring. The
+first of April, cherry blossom day, is made the great day of all
+the year. There are millions of cherry blossoms on trees larger
+than many of our largest apple trees--wonderful double-flowering,
+beautiful trees, just one mass of pink blossoms as far as the eye
+can reach. They do so reverence these blossoms that they rarely pluck
+them, but carry about bunches made of paper or silk tissue that rival
+the natural ones in perfection. No person is so poor that he cannot,
+on this great festal day, have his house, shop, place of amusement
+or, at least, umbrella bedecked with these delicate blossoms. It is
+almost beyond belief the extent to which they carry this festal day,
+given up entirely to greetings and parades.
+
+Then the wonderful wisteria! In its blossoming time the flower clusters
+hang from long sprays like rich fringe. From the hill-tops the view
+down on the tiny cottages, wreathed with the luxuriant vines, is most
+beautiful. A single cluster is often three feet long. They make cups,
+bowls and plates from the trunk of the vine.
+
+There are marsh fields of the white lotus. The ridges of the heavily
+thatched roofs are set with iris plants and their many hued blossoms
+make a garden in the air.
+
+One should visit Japan from April to November. In the cultivation of
+the chrysanthemum they lay more stress on the small varieties than we
+do; they prefer number to size. The autumn foliage is beautiful beyond
+belief,--vision alone can do it justice. The hillsides, the mountain
+slopes are thickly set with the miniature maples and evergreens;
+the clear, brilliant hues of the one, heightened by contrast with
+the dark green of the other, are strikingly vivid.
+
+The trees and shrubs are surely more gnarled and knotted than they are
+in Christian countries. They are trained in curious fashion. One limb
+of a tree is coaxed and stretched to see how far it can be extended
+from the body of the tree. At first I could not believe that these
+limbs belonged to a stump so far away. The Japanese pride themselves
+on their shrubs and flowers. Nothing gave me more pleasure than
+seeing all this cultivation of the gardens, no matter how small,
+around each home. I did not see a single bit of wood in Japan like
+anything that we have. The veining, color, texture and adaptiveness
+to polish suggest marble of every variety.
+
+At Yokohama I engaged a guide, Takenouchi. I found him to be a faithful
+attendant; his devotion and energy in satisfying my various requests
+was unwearied; I shall ever feel grateful to him. He would make me
+understand by little nods, winks, and sly pushes that I was not to
+purchase, and he would afterwards say: "I will go back and get the
+articles for you for just one-half the price the shop-keeper told
+you." They hope to sell to Americans for a better price than they
+ever get from each other. We went to every kind of shop; they are
+amusingly different from ours. Few things are displayed in the windows
+or on the shelves, but they are done up in fine parcels and tucked
+away out of sight. It is the rule to take two or three days to sit
+at various counters before you attempt to purchase. The seller would
+much rather keep his best things; he tries in every way to induce you
+to take the cheaper ones, or ones of inferior quality. My guide was in
+every way capable and efficient in the selection of fine embroideries,
+porcelain, bronzes, and pictures.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FROM YOKOHAMA TO TOKIO.
+
+CHAPTER THREE.
+
+
+From Yokohama to Tokio, a two hours' ride on the steam cars,
+one is constantly gazing at the wonderful country and its perfect
+cultivation. There are no vast prairies of wheat or corn, but the land
+is divided into little patches, and each patch is so lovingly tended
+that it looks not like a farm but like a garden; while each garden is
+laid out with as much care as if it were some part of Central Park,
+thick with little lakes, artistic bridges and little waterfalls with
+little mills, all too diminutive, seemingly, to be of any use, and
+yet all occupied and all busy turning out their various wares.
+
+I understand they even hoe the drilled-in wheat. The rice, the staple
+of the country, is so cared for and tended that it sells for much
+more than other rice. Imported rice is the common food.
+
+As our guide said, we must go to the "Proud of Japan," Nikko, to see
+the most wonderful temples of their kind in all the world. We took the
+cars at Yokohama for Nikko. It was an all day trip with five changes of
+cars, but every step of the way was through one vast curious workshop
+of both divine and human hands. The railway fare is only two cents a
+mile, first class, and half that, second class; we left the choice
+to our guide. A good guide is almost indispensable. Our faithful
+Takenouchi was proficient in everything; he was valet, courier,
+guide, instructor, purchasing agent, and maid. I never knew a person
+so efficient in every way; he could be attentively absent; he never
+intruded himself upon us in any way. It is impossible to describe
+the wonderful temples! They must be seen to be appreciated and, even
+then, one must needs have a microscope, so minute are the carvings in
+ivory, bronze, and porcelain, inlaid and wrought with gold and silver;
+many of them, ancient though they are, are still marvels of delicate
+lines of the patient labor of the past centuries. One of the gods,
+which was in a darkened temple, had a hundred heads, and the only way
+one could see it was by a little lantern hung on the end of a string
+and pulled up slowly. But even in that dim light we stood awestruck
+before that miracle wrought in stone. No one is allowed to walk near
+this god with shoes upon his feet. Unbelievers though we were, we were
+awed by the colossal grandeur of this great idol. The God of Wind,
+the God of War, the God of Peace, "the hundred Gods" all in line,
+were, when counted one way, one hundred, but in the reverse order
+only ninety-nine. To pray to the One Hundred, it is necessary only
+to buy a few characters of Japanese writings and paste them upon any
+one of the gods, trusting your cause to him and the Nikko.
+
+The bells, the first tones of which came down through that magnificent
+forest of huge trees and echoing from the rocks of that wonderful
+ravine, will ever sound in my ears as an instant call to a reverential
+mood. The solemn music was unlike any tone I had ever heard before;
+now it seemed the peal of the trumpet of the Last Day, now a call
+to some festival of angels and arch-angels. As the first thrills
+of emotion passed, it seemed a benediction of peace and rest; the
+evening's Gloria to the day's Jubilate, for it was the sunset hour.
+
+The next morning we took our guide and three natives to each foreigner
+to assist in getting us up the Nikko mountain. It took from 7 o'clock
+in the morning until 2 in the afternoon to reach the summit. Every
+mountain peak was covered with red, white, and pink azaleas. Our
+pathway was over a carpet of the petals of these exquisite blooms. We
+used every glowing adjective that we could command at every turn of
+these delightful hills, and at last joined in hymns of praise. Each
+alluring summit, as soon as reached, dwindled to a speck in comparison
+with the grandeur that was still further awaiting us. We stopped often
+to let the men rest, who had to work so hard pulling our little carts
+up these steep ascents.
+
+There is a great waterfall in the hills, some two hundred fifty
+feet high, but none of us dared to make the point that gives an
+entire view of it. All we could see added proof of our paucity of
+words to express our surprise that the reputed great wonders of
+this "Proud" were really true. On returning we were often obliged
+to alight and walk over fallen boulders, this being the first trip
+after the extreme winter snows. At one place, being "overtoppled" by
+the weight of my clothes and the cramped position that I had been in,
+I lost my balance and fell down, it seemed to me to be about a mile
+and a half. In a moment there were at least fifty pairs of hands to
+assist me up the mountain side. A dislocated wrist, a battered nose,
+and a blackened eye was the inventory of damages. Such a chattering
+as those natives did set up, while I, with a bit of medical skill,
+which I am modestly proud of, attended to my needs. The day had been
+so full of delights that I did not mind being battered and bruised,
+nor did I lose appetite for the very fine dinner we had at the Nikko
+Hotel, so daintily served in the most attractive fashion by the little
+Japanese maidens in their dainty costumes. In the evening the hotel
+became a lively bazaar. All sorts of wares were spread out before
+us--minute bridges modeled after the famous Emperor's Bridge at this
+place. No person is allowed to walk upon it but His Majesty. The
+story goes that General Grant was invited to cross over upon it,
+but declined with thanks. In returning we drove through that most
+wonderful grove of huge trees, the Cryptomaria, a kind of cedar,
+which rise to a height of one hundred fifty or two hundred feet. I
+may not have the number of feet exactly, but they are so tremendous
+that one wonders if they can really be living Cryptomaria. Indeed,
+much of all Japan seems artificial. Every tiny little house has its
+own little garden, perhaps but two feet square, yet artistically laid
+out with bridges, temples, miniature trees two or three inches high,
+flowers in pots, walks, and little cascades, all too toy-like and
+tiny for any but children. Nearly all of the houses have their little
+temples, and the children have their special gods; little boys have
+their gods of learning and their gods of war. The prayer to the god
+of learning is about like this: "Oh, Mr. God of Learning, won't you
+please help me to learn my lessons, won't you please help me to pass
+my examinations, and Oh, Mr. God of learning, if you will only help
+me pass my examination and to study my lessons and get them well,
+when I get through I will bring you a dish of pickles." This prayer
+was given me by a Japanese student who studied in our country.
+
+We found that nearly every banking house and hotel had for their
+expert accountants and rapid calculators, Chinamen. I finally asked
+one of the proprietors how it happened and he said it was because
+they could trust the Chinese to be more faithful and accurate. On
+the other hand, when we got to Hong Kong we found that the policemen
+were of India, because the Chinese could not be trusted to do justice
+to their fellow men. There was such a difference between the service
+of the coolie Jinricksha men in Hong Kong and in Japan. They did not
+seem so weak or travel-weary, and yet they had often to take people
+on much harder journeys.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TOKIO.
+
+CHAPTER FOUR.
+
+
+Tokio, the capital, with a population almost equal to New York, looks
+like a caricature, a miniature cast such as one sees of the Holy
+Land. The earliest mention of the use of checks in Europe is in the
+latter part of the seventeenth century. The Japanese had already been
+using them for forty years; they had also introduced the strengthening
+features of requiring them to be certified.
+
+Visiting the Rice Exchange in Tokio during a year of famine, when
+subject to wide and sudden fluctuations, it was easy to imagine one's
+self in the New York Stock Exchange, on the occasion of a flurry in
+Wall Street. There was the same seeming madness intensified by the
+guttural sounds of the language, and the brokers were not a whit
+more intelligible than a like mob in any other city. I said to the
+interpreter: "You Japanese have succeeded in copying every feature
+of the New York Stock Exchange." "New York!" he exclaimed, "why, this
+very thing has been going on here in Japan these two hundred years!"
+
+The palace is a long, low building, unattractive in itself, but
+its gardens with every beautiful device of native art, fountains,
+bridges, shrines, fantastically trimmed trees, flowers, winding ways,
+are amazingly artistic.
+
+The Lord High Chamberlain has ordered every civil officer to appear at
+court ceremonies in European dress. It seems such a pity, for they are
+not of the style or carriage to adopt court costumes. One government
+official wanted to be so very correct that he wore his dress suit to
+business. So anxious are they to be thought civilized. There is nothing
+that hurts a gentleman's feelings in Japan more than to hear one say,
+"They have such a beautiful country and when they are converted from
+heathenism it will be ideal." There is a strong Episcopal church and
+college in the capital.
+
+I am not at all prepared to judge the Japanese creeds or modes of
+worship. But one may infer something of what people are taught,
+from their character and conduct. The children honor their parents;
+the women seem obedient to their husbands and masters; and the men
+are imbued with the love of country.
+
+The prevailing religion of Japan is Shintoism, and through the kindness
+of Rev. B. T. Sakai, I will give a bit of his experience. He wished to
+acquire a better knowledge of English and found that Trinity College in
+Tokio could give him the best instruction. He went to this institution,
+pledged that he would not, on any account, become a Christian, and
+assisted in the persecution of his fellow students, who were becoming
+convinced of the truth of Christianity. During the extreme cold
+weather, the institution was badly in need of warmer rooms. Several of
+the students met and decided to make an appeal to the Bishop. They went
+to him, three Japanese boys who were converted and two who were not,
+and told him in very plain language that they would not endure the
+cold in their rooms any longer. The Bishop listened attentively and
+finally said, "Well, young men, you are perfectly right, and I have a
+very good solution of the difficulty. I am an old man and cannot live
+many years, so I will give you my warm room and I will take the cold
+one." He told me that was something new to him, that a person of his
+years and standing should be willing to make so great a sacrifice. He
+said that he could not keep the tears from running down his cheeks,
+and on no account would any of these boys accept the Bishop's proposal;
+he gave them a new idea of Christian charity.
+
+
+
+KOBE AND NAGASAKI.
+
+From Nikko we returned to Yokohama and thence by steamer to Kobe. The
+U. S. Consul, General M. Lyon, and his wife met me. They gave me the
+first particulars of the wreck of the Morgan City. Nothing could
+exceed their kindness during the two days of my stay there. Their
+familiarity with the language, the people, and the shops was a great
+help to me. And when we returned home, I found the little son of my
+hosts the most interesting object of all. Born in Kobe, cared for
+by a native nurse, an ama, as they are called, he spoke no English,
+only Japanese. He was a beautiful child, fair, golden haired, blue
+eyed, and sweet of temper.
+
+The garden of the U.S. Consul at Kobe was a marvel of beauty. There
+was a rumor that the United States government might purchase it. I hope
+so, because it is in a part of the city which has a commanding view of
+the bay, and it is such a joy to see our beautiful flag floating from
+the staff in front of the consulate. No one appreciates the meaning of
+"Our Flag" until one sees it in foreign countries.
+
+I visited the famous Buddhist Temple of Kobe; it was placed in a
+garden and there were hundreds of poor, sore eyed, sickly, dirty
+Japanese people around, and it gave one the impression that this
+temple might have been used for other purposes than worship. In all
+the temples that I visited, I never saw, except in one, anything
+that approached worship, and that was in the Sacred Temple of the
+White Horse, Nagasaki, and an American who had lived there for eight
+years said that I must be mistaken for she had never heard of any
+such doings as I saw. There seemed to be about a dozen priests who
+were carrying hot water which they dipped out of a boiling caldron
+and were sprinkling it about in the temple with curious intonations
+and chantings. They ran back and forth, swishing the water about in a
+very promiscuous manner. I stood at a respectful distance fearing to
+get some of the hot fluid on myself. Meanwhile the White Horse stood
+in the yard well groomed and cared for, little knowing what they were
+doing in his honor. I could not hear of a single place where their
+poor or sick and afflicted were cared for. They may have asylums and
+hospitals, but I never heard of any.
+
+Nagasaki is beautiful for situation. A river-like inlet, reminding
+one of the Hudson river, leads into the broad lake-like harbor. Eight
+or ten of our transports lay at anchor and still there was abundant
+room for the liners and for the little craft plying between this and
+the small ports.
+
+The dock is famous; all our ships in the east put in here for repairs
+if possible.
+
+The high hills circle about the town and bay; they are highly
+cultivated and dotted with the peculiar Japanese house. The native
+house of but one story, is not more than twelve or fourteen feet
+square, and is divided into rooms only by paper screens that may be
+removed at will. The people live out of doors as much as possible,
+or in their arbors. In cold weather a charcoal brazier is set in the
+center of the house. At night each Jap rolls himself in a thickly
+padded mat and lies on the floor with his feet to this "stove."
+
+A party was made up to visit the Concert Hall of the celebrated Geisha
+girls. General and Mrs. Greenleaf and many officers and their wives
+from the transports were of the number. They kindly invited me to
+join them. A sum total of about fifteen dollars is charged for the
+entertainment; each one bears his share of the cost. It was a rainy
+evening, rickshaws were in order. About thirty drew up before the
+Nagasaki Hotel. It was a sight! the funny little carriages, man before
+to pull, man behind to push, gaily colored lantern fore and aft and
+amused Americans in the middle, laughing, singing, and enjoying the
+fun, a strange contrast to the stolid native.
+
+The long line of carriages wound in and out like a snake with shining
+scales. The night was so dark that little was to be seen except the
+firefly lights and the bare tawny legs of the rickshaw men.
+
+It has been said that the Japanese are the soul of music. I am sure
+that no ears are cultivated to endure it. As we entered the rooms
+we were obliged to remove our shoes and put on sandals. Instead of
+sitting down on chairs we took any position we could on the floor mats
+that were placed at our disposal. At the first sound from the throat
+of a famous singer in a staccato "E-E-E-E," we all sprang to our feet
+thinking she was possibly going into some sort of a fit. With a twang
+on the strings of the flattened out little instrument, we subsided,
+concluding that the concert had begun. Then when the others joined
+in, the mingled sounds were not unlike the wail of cats on the back
+fence. The girls themselves looked pretty, in kneeling posture, lips
+painted bright red, hair prettily braided and adorned with artificial
+flowers or bits of jewelry. If they had been quiet they would have
+looked like beautiful Japanese dolls seated on the floor. After several
+"catterwaulings" by the choir, came the dances. It was all a series
+of physical culture movements; the music was rendered in most perfect
+rhythm by two of the girls, it was the poetry of motion. They would
+take pieces of silk and make little bouquets, whirlwinds, and divers
+things; the most beautiful of all was a cascade of water. It was hard
+for us to believe it was not actually a waterfall. It was made of
+unfolding yards of white silk of the most sheer and gauzy kind. From a
+thin package six inches square, there shimmered out a thousand yards--a
+veritable cascade of gleaming water. We were treated to refreshments,
+impossible cakes and tea. We were thankful that we sat near an open
+window that we might throw the cake over our shoulder, trusting some
+forlorn little Japanese who liked it might get it.
+
+The tea is finely powdered dust; the tea maker is supposed to measure
+exactly the capacity of the drinker and to take enough of this finely
+powdered tea to make three and one-half mouthfuls exactly. They do
+it by taking a rare bit of porcelain and holding it in their hands,
+turn it about and talk learnedly of the various, wonderful arts
+of pottery and how many years they have had this certain piece of
+fine porcelain, turning it about in the meantime in their hands
+as they comment on its beauties and qualities, and then take three
+large swallows of the tea and one small sip and then go on talking
+about the wonders of the cup. These cups are anything but what we
+should call tea cups. They are really large bowls, sometimes with
+a cover but more often without. But it is refreshing to drink their
+tea even if one cannot do it a la Jap. Everywhere in Japan you are
+asked to take a cup of tea, in the steam cars, in the shops and by
+the wayside. A Japanese told me that he could tell whether a person
+was educated or not by the manner in which he drank tea. They take
+lessons in tea drinking as we do in any accomplishment we wish to
+acquire. One friend could not resist buying tea pots and pretty cups;
+she had a grand collection after one day of sight-seeing.
+
+Their potteries are not like ours, huge factories, but household
+things. Here and there in a family is an artist who can make a bit
+of porcelain, a few cups, plates, or saucers stamped with his own
+individual mark. The quality varies, of course, with the skill of
+the maker, but the poorest work is beautiful; and one develops an
+insatiate greed to possess this and this and just one more.
+
+The ancient Imari, Satsuma, and the old bits of pottery that have
+been kept in the older families for centuries are, to my mind, the
+most wonderful works of art of the kind in the world; they look with
+pride on the articles of virtu as almost sacred.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+JAPAN IN GENERAL.
+
+CHAPTER FIVE.
+
+
+One of the many objects to attract the eyes of one traveling in
+Japan is the "Torii" or sacred gateway. It is said that once a bird
+from Heaven flew down and alighted upon the earth. Here the first
+gate was erected, the gate of heaven. Its construction, whether it
+be of wood, stone or metal, is ever the same, two columns slightly
+inclined toward each other, supporting a horizontal cross-beam with
+widely projecting ends, and beneath this another beam with its ends
+fitted into the columns; the whole forming a singularly graceful
+construction, illustrating how the Japanese produce the best effects
+with the simplest means. This sacred entrance arches the path wherever
+any Japanese foot approaches hallowed ground. It is, however, over
+all consecrated portals and lands, and does not necessarily indicate
+the nearness of a temple. You find it everywhere in your wanderings,
+over hill and dale, at the entrance to mountain paths, or deep in
+the recesses of the woods, sometimes it is on the edge of an oasis
+of shrubbery, or in the very heart of the rice fields, sometimes in
+front of cliff or cavern. Pass under its arch and follow the path it
+indicates and you will reach--it may be by a few steps, it may be by
+a long walk or climb--a temple sometimes, but more often a simple
+shrine; and if in this shrine you find nothing; close by you will
+see some reason for its being there. There will be a twisted pine or
+grove of stately trees, to consecrate the place and perpetuate some
+memory. Perhaps the way leads to the view of some magnificent panorama
+of land or sea spread out before the gazer who, with adoring heart,
+worships the beauty or the grandeur of his country. Wherever there
+is a Torii, there is a shrine of his religion; and wherever there is
+an outlook over the land of his birth, there is a temple of his faith.
+
+As we left Nagasaki for Shanghai, I noticed on this occasion, as
+on four later visits, the great activity of this port as a coaling
+station. It has an immense trade. Men, women, and children form
+in line from the junk which is drawn alongside of our huge ships,
+and then pass baskets of coal from one to the other. Many of the
+women and girls have babies strapped on their backs, and there they
+stand in line for hours passing these baskets back and forth. As I
+was watching them one day, for I saw them loading many times, for
+some reason not apparent, they all pounced upon one small man, and,
+as I thought, kicked him to pieces with their heavy wooden shoes and
+strong feet. After five minutes of such pummeling, as I was looking
+for a few shreds of a flattened out Japanese, he arose, shook himself,
+got in line, and passed baskets as before.
+
+One day from my comfortable bamboo chair I watched some coolies
+getting some immense timbers out of the bay near where I sat. It
+did not seem possible that these small men could manage those huge
+timbers, which were so slippery from lying in the water that they
+would often have to allow them to slip back, even after they had
+got them nearly on land. I expected every moment to see those poor
+creatures either plunge into the water themselves or be crushed by
+the weight of the heavy timbers; and while I watched for about two
+hours they must have taken out about twenty or thirty logs, twenty
+or twenty-five feet long and two feet through. I often watched the
+coolies unloading ships. Two of them would take six or eight trunks,
+bind them together, run a heavy bamboo pole through the knotted ends
+and away they would go. I never saw a single person carding what we,
+in America, pride ourselves so much on, "a full dinner pail." They
+did not even seem to have the pail.
+
+There are horses in Japan and they are poor specimens compared with
+the fine animals that we know. They are chiefly pack-horses, used in
+climbing over the mountains, consequently they go with their noses
+almost on the ground. Instead of iron shoes they have huge ones made
+of plaited straw. They are literally skin and bones, these poor beasts
+of burden.
+
+Horses may be judged, in part, by the mouth; but the Japs may be wholly
+judged by the leg. It did distress me to ride after a pair of legs
+whose calves were abnormally large, whose varicose veins were swollen
+almost to bursting. As a rule, the men trot along with very little
+effort and, seemingly, have a very good time. They cheerfully play
+the part of both horseman and horse, of conductor, motineer and power.
+
+I never could get used to the number of Jinrickshas drawn up in front
+of the railroad station, and as it is the only way to get about the
+country, I accepted it with as good a grace as I could. At a large
+station there may be hundreds of rickshaws and double hundreds of
+drivers, all clamoring as wildly as our most aggressive cabmen. They
+wave their hands frantically, crying, "Me speak English! Me speak
+English! Me speak English!"
+
+They knew originally, or have learned of foreigners, how to cheat in
+Japan as elsewhere. One often needs to ask, "Is this real tortoise
+shell?" The answer, even if imitation, is "Now, this is good; this
+is without flaw." I found it of great advantage, as far as possible,
+to keep the same men, and they became interested, not only in taking
+me to better places, but in assisting me in procuring articles, not
+only of the best value, but at Japanese prices. It is never best to
+purchase the first time you see anything, even if you want it very
+badly. I secured one Satsuma cup that has a thousand faces on it. It
+is very old, very wonderfully exact, and a work of very great art. It
+took me several days to purchase it, as the man was very loath to
+part with it, and at the end I got it for very much less than I was
+willing to give the first day.
+
+They do not seem to have any day of rest--all shops are open seven days
+of the week. All work goes on in the same unbroken round. Indeed, from
+the time I left San Francisco until my return, it was hard for me to
+"keep track" of Sunday, even with the almanac I carried; and when I
+did chase it down, I involuntarily exclaimed, "But today is Saturday
+at home; the Saturday crowds will parade the streets this evening;
+the churches will not be open until tomorrow morning."
+
+I learned here that the average wages of a laboring man, working
+from dawn to dark, is about seven cents a day of our money. The men
+do much of the menial service, much of the delicate work, too. The
+finest embroidery, with most intricate patterns and delicate tracings
+in white and colors, is done by men. Two will work at the frame, one
+putting the needle through on his side, and the other thrusting it
+back. In that way the embroideries are alike on both sides, except
+the work which is to be framed. They are so very industrious that
+they very rarely look up when anyone is examining their work.
+
+As I was watching some glass blowers, the little son of one raised
+his eyes from the various intricate bulbs that he was handing to
+his father and gave him the wrong color. Without a word of warning
+the father gave him a severe stroke with the hot tube across the
+forehead, which left a welt the size of my finger. Without one cry
+of pain he immediately handed his father the correct tube and went
+on with his work as if nothing had happened. I had intended to buy
+that very article, but it would have meant to me the suffering it
+cost the child, and I would not have taken it if it had been given me.
+
+Sanitary conditions, as far as I could judge, were bad. The houses,
+in the first place, are very small. I understand they are made small
+on account of earthquakes. It is said that the whole of Japan is in
+one quake all the time. They have shocks daily, hence, the houses
+are only one story high.
+
+I attended an auction of one of the finest collections of works of
+art that had ever been placed before the public. The only way we
+could tell that many of these works were especially choice was by the
+number of elegantly dressed Japanese who were bending before them in
+admiration. One could see that, as a whole, it was a collection of
+rare things. The books and pictures were the most interesting. One
+picture, "White Chickens," on white parchment was very artistic. It
+did not seen possible that these white feathered fowls could so
+nearly resemble the live birds in their various attitudes and sizes,
+for there were about twelve from the smallest chick to the largest
+crowing chanticleer of the barn yard. Another picture was of fish,
+which was so exact that one could almost vow that they were alive
+and ready to be caught. Indeed, one of the fish was on the end of
+the line with the hook in his mouth, and his resistance was seen from
+the captive head to the end of the little forked tail. They excel in
+birds, butterflies and flowers; and one knows the full meaning of the
+"Flowery Kingdom" of both China and Japan as one travels about. One
+sees in the public parks notices posted, "Strangers do not molest or
+capture the butterflies." For nowhere, except in this Oriental country,
+are the butterflies so gorgeously magnificent.
+
+Japan is truly a land of umbrellas and parasols. With frames made of
+the light, delicate bamboo, strands woven closely and then either
+covered with fine rice paper or silk, they are ready for rain or
+sunshine. They all carry them. The markets are the most attractive
+that one could imagine, but after hearing of the means used to enrich
+the soil, it is impossible to enjoy any fruit or vegetable. In all
+the towns are the native and the European quarters. In the latter one
+can have thoroughly good accommodations; the service and attendance
+are excellent.
+
+At one place on the coast of Japan there is cormorant fishing. Men go
+in small boats with flaring torches, hundreds of them. The birds with
+their long bills reach down into the water and pick up a huge fish,
+then the master immediately takes it out of the bill, before it can
+be swallowed, and places it in his boat for market. These birds in
+a single evening get thousands of fish. I suppose they are rewarded
+at the end of their service by being allowed to fish for themselves.
+
+Kite flying is a favorite pastime; the size, shape, and curious
+decorations are astonishing. They have fights with their kites up in
+the air, and there is just as much excitement over these kite games
+as we ever have over foot-ball. They go into paroxysms of joy when
+the favorite wins. There are singing kites and signal kites and a
+hundred other kinds.
+
+I saw no children indulging in any games on the streets. As soon
+as they are able to carry or do anything at all they seem to be
+employed. I could not but think that most of the Japanese children
+are unhealthy. Every one of them had sore eyes. Small of statue,
+the children seemed too small to walk, and yet those that looked
+only seven or eight years old would, invariably, have each a baby
+strapped on his back, and the poor little creatures would go running
+about with the small human burdens dangling as they could.
+
+There is one delightful thing about the people, as a whole, their
+attentive, courteous manners; their solicitude to assist you in
+whatever they can. They are a domestic and thrifty little race, the
+men doing by far the larger part of the work. The enormous burdens
+that these little mites of humanity can pick up and carry are an
+increasing wonder.
+
+In visiting Japan, it is convenient to make Yokohama one's headquarters
+for the northern part of the kingdom, Nagasaki for the southern
+part, and Kobe for the central part; and from these centers to take
+excursions to the various points of interest.
+
+My first visit was brief, for I still clung to the Gaelic, moving when
+she moved, and stopping at her ports according to her schedule. But
+I returned and made a stay of many months, exploring at leisure the
+more important or attractive places. I have gathered together in this
+rambling account the various observations and impressions of these
+various visits, and have tried to unite them into one story.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+IN SHANGHAI.
+
+CHAPTER SIX.
+
+
+But it is time to bid Japan good-bye and sail for China. It is a
+three days' voyage from Nagasaki to Shanghai. We left the ship at the
+broad mouth of the Yang-tse-Kiang and in a small river boat went up
+a tributary to Shanghai, a distance of twelve miles.
+
+I was met at the dock by our Consul General, John Goodnow, and his
+wife, with their elegantly liveried coachman, and was taken to the
+consulate, and, after a fine tiffin (lunch), we started for the walled
+city. A shrinking horror seized me as if I were at the threshold
+of the infernal regions as we crossed the draw bridge over the moat
+and entered the narrow gate of the vast city of more than a million
+souls. Immediately we were greeted by the "wailers" and lepers,--this
+was my first sight of the loathsome leprosy. Our guide had supplied
+himself with a quantity of small change. Twenty-five cents of our money
+made about a quart of their small change. A moment later we met the
+funeral cortege of a rich merchant. First came wailers and then men
+beating on drums; then sons of the deceased dressed in white (white
+is their emblem of mourning); then the servants carrying the body on
+their shoulders. More wailers followed, then came the wives. It made
+a strange impression.
+
+The streets are so very narrow that we had to press our bodies close
+against the wall to keep from being crushed as the procession passed
+us. We heard the tooting of a horn. Our guide said, "Here comes the
+Mandarin." We began to press ourselves into a niche in the wall
+to watch him pass. First came the buglers, then the soldiers and
+last the gayly-bedecked Mandarin carried in a sedan chair on the
+shoulders of six coolies. He looked the very picture of the severe
+authority that he is invested with. They say that he has witnessed
+in one day the execution of five hundred criminals. He was obliged
+to put a mark on each one's head with his own fingers, and, after
+the head was severed from the body, to remark it in proof of the
+exactness of his work. I was glad when I had seen the last of him,
+though it is only to go from bad to worse.
+
+In the opium dens, hundreds of people, of both sexes, of various ages,
+kinds and colors, were reclining in most horrible attitudes. One
+glimpse was enough for me.
+
+From this place we entered the temple. One of our guides said he was
+obliged to buy joss-sticks and kneel before the gods or it would make
+us trouble, because they are watchful of what foreigners do. They
+consider us white devils. We saw a war god nine feet high mounted on
+a war steed one foot high, a child's woolly toy. There were placed
+before the gods about six or eight cups of tea and hundreds of fragrant
+burning tapers.
+
+At one point our hearts failed us. We came to a dark bridge; it looked
+so forbidding with its various windings, so frail in structure, so
+thronged, that we were timid about stepping upon it. Being assured
+that it was safe we ventured across. While it shook under our weight,
+we did not fall into the filthy frog-pond beneath.
+
+When we reached the center, there were a number of sleight-of-hand
+performers who were doing all sorts of curious things; bringing out of
+the stone pavement living animals, bottles of wine, bits of porcelain,
+and cakes, too filthy looking even to touch.
+
+There were for sale numbers of beautiful birds in cages and wonderful
+bits of art of most intricate patterns and exquisite fineness. We
+saw beautiful pieces of brocaded silk and satin on little hand-looms,
+made by these patient, ever working people, who only have one week in
+the year for rest. There does not seem to be any provision made for
+night or rest, and each Chinaman looks forward to this one holiday
+week in which he does no work whatever, and in which he must have
+all the money ready to pay every debt he owes or be punished.
+
+I did not learn how much the average Chinaman gets for a day's wages,
+but I know that one of my friends sent a dozen linen dresses to be
+laundried, and that the charge was thirty-six cents. To be sure a
+satin dress that she sent to be cleaned was put in the tub with the
+rest. In the markets were impossible looking sausages, dried ducks,
+and curious frogs. In China, as in Japan, each individual has his
+own little table about two feet long, fourteen inches wide and six
+or eight inches high,--not unlike a tray.
+
+Their religion is centuries old, but if cleanliness be next to
+godliness, they are still centuries away from Christian virtues. The
+vast city crowded from portal to portal is one seething mass of
+living beings pushing, hustling, and silent. With the exception of a
+soothsayer, I did not see in an entire day two people talking together,
+so intent were they on their various duties.
+
+It was a joy to get out of the native into the European parts of
+Shanghai and feel safe; and yet there was not a single thing, upon
+thinking it over, that one could say was alarming, not a disrespectful
+look from any one. I said upon reaching the outer gate, "Thank God,
+we are out of there alive and safe." It was the first experience only
+to be renewed with like scenes and impressions at Canton, with the
+same thankfulness of heart, too, for escape.
+
+Our guide told us that he would be in no way responsible for anything
+that might happen in traveling about Canton. The land and its people
+are a marvel and a mystery; the great wonder is how all this vast
+multitude can be reached and helped.
+
+The rivers teem with all sorts of junks filled with all sorts of
+wares going to market, and it was upon the quays that we found for
+sale the finest carved things, the richest embroideries, the most
+delicately wrought wares. The monkey seems to be a favorite subject
+with the artist. Look at these exquisite bits of carved ivory. This
+one is the god monkey who sees no evil, his hands cover his eyes;
+this one is the god monkey who hears no evil, his hands cover his
+ears; and this one is the god monkey who speaks no evil, his hands
+cover his mouth. Half ashamed of our own dullness an old lesson came
+back with new significance,--be blind, deaf, and dumb towards evil.
+
+One curiously wrought specimen of art was an inkwell encircled by
+nine monkeys. In the center, on the lid, was the finest monkey of all;
+the diversity of bodily attitudes, the variety of facial expressions,
+and the perfection of all was wonderful. Temple cloths, with pictures
+of various gods embroidered in fine threads of gold, were marvels of
+patient labor.
+
+We once entertained at our home in Akron a converted Chinaman who had
+come to Gambier, Ohio, to study for the ministry. After the lapse of
+many years his son came to Ohio to be educated. It was interesting
+to hear him tell of the ways and customs of his native land. I asked
+him about servants being so very cheap, and he informed me that
+good servants might not be considered so cheap. The best families,
+according to the value they place upon the friendship of their friends,
+pay for every present received a certain per cent. of its value to
+their servants; and at every birthday of any member of the family,
+every wedding, every birth and death, there are hundreds of presents
+exchanged. I saw many servants in the large cities carrying these
+various gifts, and some of the servants were dressed very well,
+having, on the garments they wore, the coat-of-arms or rank of their
+master. On a little table or tray was placed the richly embroidered
+family napkin with the gift neatly wrapped therein, and on both sides
+were placed lighted tapers or artificial flowers.
+
+As with Shanghai so with all the coast towns of China, there is the
+old walled city swarming with millions of natives, and the new or
+European city as modern as New York. My two days' stay seemed like
+two weeks, so full was it of strange sights.
+
+On returning to the Gaelic, I was pleased to find that two Americans
+had been added to our passenger list. Indeed, it was the last of
+the many kindly offices of Mr. Goodnow to introduce me to Rev. and
+Mrs. C. Goodrich. These new friends were delightful traveling
+companions. For a longer stay at Hong Kong and a much better boat to
+Manila, I was indebted to their thoughtfulness for me.
+
+We were told that we must all get in position to watch the entrance
+at Hong Kong. Captain Finch said that for fifteen years he always went
+down from the bridge as soon as he could to see the wonderful display
+of curious junks and craft of every conceivable kind that swarmed
+about the boat, some advertising their wares, some booming hotels, some
+fortune-telling in hieroglyphics which only the Chinese can interpret.
+
+Before our boat dropped anchor there were hundreds of Celestials
+climbing up the sides of the ship with all kinds of articles for
+sale. There were sleight-of-hand performers, there were tumblers of
+red looking stuff to drink; there were trained mice and rats. We had
+a man on shipboard who was very clever with these sleight-of-hand
+tricks, but he said he could not see where they got a single one of
+the reptiles and articles that they would take out of the ladies'
+hands, their bonnets, and his own feet, which were bare.
+
+The city of Hong Kong is built upon a rock whose sides are almost
+vertical. The city park is considered one of the finest in the
+world. It has been said that every known tree and shrub is grown there;
+and when one considers that every foot of its soil has been carried
+to its place, the wonder is how it has all been done. The blossoms
+seem to say, "The whole world is here and in bloom." The banyan tree
+grows here luxuriantly and is a great curiosity. The main trunk of
+the tree grows to the height of about thirty or forty feet. The first
+branches, and indeed many of the upper branches, strike down into the
+ground. These give the trees the appearance of being supported on huge
+sticks. As to the bamboo, it is the principal tree of which they build
+their houses, and make many articles for export in the shape of woven
+chairs, tables, and baskets of most intricate and beautiful designs,
+most reasonable in price. The first shoots in spring are used as food
+and make a delicious dish. It is prepared like cauliflower. Our much
+despised "pussley" proves to be a veritable blessing here; it makes
+a nice green or salad.
+
+China seemed like one vast graveyard, full of huge mounds from three
+to five feet high, without special marking. Each family knows where
+its own ancestors are buried. One of the reasons why they oppose the
+building of railroads through their country is their reverence for
+these burial piles.
+
+One of the very best missionary establishments that I know anything
+about is the hospital in Shanghai. The institution is full to
+overflowing and the amount of good that the nurses do there is beyond
+human measure. I heard pathetic stories almost beyond belief; I hope
+that the grand workers in that field are supplied with all they need
+in the way of money.
+
+Servants seldom remain at night in the house of their employers or
+partake of the food that is prepared for the household. The rich enjoy
+pleasure trips on the house-boats; they take their servants, horses,
+and carriages with them, and leaving the river at pleasure they journey
+up through the country to the inland towns. One cannot understand
+how the poor exist as they do on their house-boats. Of course,
+those hired by the Americans and English are well appointed, but a
+large proportion of the inhabitants are born, live, and die on these
+junks which do not seem large enough to hold even two people and yet
+multitudes live on them in squalor and misery. I have a great respect
+for the determination of Chinese children to get an education. It
+is truly wonderful that with more than fifty thousand characters to
+learn, they ever acquire any knowledge. Some of the scholars study
+diligently all their lives, trying to the last to win prizes.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+HONG KONG TO MANILA.
+
+CHAPTER SEVEN.
+
+
+From Hong Kong to Manila we were fortunate in being upon an Australian
+steamer which was very comfortable, indeed, with Japanese for
+sailors and attendants. At last I was in the tropics and felt for the
+first time what tropical heat can be; the sun poured down floods of
+intolerable heat. The first feeling is that one can not endure it;
+one gasps like a fish out of water and vows with laboring breath,
+"I'll take the next steamer home, oh, home!" It took four days to reach
+Manila. The bay is a broad expanse of water, a sea in itself. The city
+is a magnificent sight, its white houses with Spanish tiled roofs,
+its waving palms, its gentle slopes rising gradually to the mountains
+in the back ground.
+
+The waters swarmed with craft of every fashion and every country. How
+beautiful they looked, our own great warships and transports! No large
+ship can draw nearer to shore than two or three miles. All our army
+supplies must be transferred by the native boats to the quartermaster's
+department, there to be sorted for distribution to the islands where
+the troops are stationed. This necessitates the reloading of stores on
+the boats, to be transferred again to medium sized vessels to complete
+their journey. A volunteer quartermaster told me, that, on an average,
+every seventh box was wholly empty and the contents of the other six
+were rarely intact. The lost goods sometimes reappeared on native
+heads or backs. Coal oil was in demand, and disappeared with amazing
+celerity; it is far better for lights than cocoanut oil.
+
+Custom house inspection being quickly over, we landed. The beauty of
+the distant view was instantly dispelled; one glance and there was a
+wild desire to take those dirty, almost nude creatures in hand and,
+holding them at arm's length, dip them into some cleansing caldron. The
+sanitary efforts of our army are effecting changes beyond praise both
+in the people and their surroundings.
+
+A little two wheeled quielas (ke-las) drawn by a very diminutive
+horse took me to the Hotel Oriente, since turned into a government
+office. I noticed that the floors were washed in kerosene to check
+the vermin that else would carry everything off bodily. The hotel
+was so crowded that I was obliged to occupy a room with a friend,
+which was no hardship as I had already had several shocks from new
+experiences. We had no sooner sat down to talk matters over than I
+started up nervously at queer squeaks. My friend remarked, "Never mind,
+you will soon get used to them, they are only lizards most harmless,
+and most necessary in this country." The beds in our room were four
+high posters with a cane seat for the mattress, a small bamboo mat, one
+sheet, and one pillow stuffed with raw cotton and very hard. As we were
+tucked in our little narrow beds mosquito netting was carefully drawn
+about us. "Neatly laid out," said one. "All ready for the morgue,"
+responded the other.
+
+The next morning we watched with interest the carabao as they were
+taken from the muddy pools in which they had found shelter for the
+night. The natives begin work at dawn and rest two or three hours in
+the middle of the day. It seemed to me too hot for any man or beast
+to stir.
+
+When a large drove of carabao are massed together it seems inevitable
+that they shall injure each other with their great horns, six or
+eight feet long but fortunately they are curved back. Strange, too,
+I thought it, that these large animals should be driven by small
+children--my small children were really sixteen to twenty years old.
+
+We ventured forth upon this first morning and found a large cathedral
+close by. It was all we could do to push our way through the throng
+of half-naked creatures that were squatting in front of the church
+to sell flowers, fruits, cakes, beads, and other small wares.
+
+We pressed on through crooked streets out toward the principal shopping
+district, but soon found it impossible to go even that short distance
+without a carriage, the heat was so overpowering. We turned to the
+old city, Manila proper, passed over the drawbridge, and under the
+arch of its inclosing wall, centuries old.
+
+We went to the quartermaster's department to get transportation
+to Iloilo. It gave a delightful feeling of protection to see our
+soldiers in and about everywhere. At this time Judge William H. Taft
+had not been made governor; the city was still under military rule, and
+there were constant outbreaks, little insurrections at many points,
+especially in the suburbs. We were surprised to find the city so
+large and so densely populated.
+
+It is useless to deny that we were in constant fear even when
+there were soldiers by. The unsettled conditions gave us a creepy
+feeling that expressed itself in the anxious faces and broken words
+of our American women. One would say, "Oh I feel just like a fool,
+I am so scared." Another would say, "Dear me, don't I wish I were
+at home,"--another, "I just wish I could get under some bed and
+hide." But for all their fears they stayed, yielding only so far as
+to take a short vacation in Japan. There is not much in the way of
+sight seeing in Manila beyond the enormous cathedrals many of which
+were closed. About five o'clock in the afternoon everybody goes to
+the luneta to take a drive on the beach, hear the bands play, and
+watch the crowds. It is a smooth beach for about two miles. Here are
+the elite of Manila. The friars and priests saunter along, some in
+long white many-overlapping capes, and some in gowns. Rich and poor,
+clean and filthy, gay and wretched, gather here and stay until about
+half-past six, when it is dark. The rich Filipinos dine at eight.
+
+The social life in Manila, as one might suppose, was somewhat
+restricted for Americans. The weather is so enervating that it is
+impossible to get up very much enthusiasm over entertainments. During
+my stay in Manila, in all, perhaps two months, there was little in
+the way of social festivity except an occasional ball in the halls
+of the Hotel Oriente, nor did the officers who had families there
+have accommodations for much beyond an occasional exchange of dinners
+and lunches.
+
+The Americans, as a rule, did not take kindly to either entertaining
+or being entertained by natives, and besides they could not endure
+the heavy, late dinners and banquets.
+
+At one grand Filipino ball (bailie) an eight or ten course dinner was
+served about midnight. The men and women did not sit down together at
+this banquet, the older men ate at the first table, then the older
+women, then the young men, lastly the young women. After the feast
+there were two or three slow waltzes carried on in most solemn manner,
+and then came the huge task of waking up the cocheroes (drivers)
+to go home. While everything was done in a quick way according to
+a Filipino's ideas, it took an hour or two to get ready. The only
+thing that does make a lot of noise and confusion is the quarreling of
+Filipino horses that are tethered near each other. I thought American
+horses could fight and kick, but these little animals stand on their
+hind legs and fight and strike with their fore feet in a way that is
+alarming and amusing. They are beset day and night with plagues of
+insects. No wonder they are restless.
+
+The Bilibid Prison in Manila is the largest in the Philippines, and
+contains the most prisoners. The time to see the convicts and men is
+at night when they are on dress parade. Of the several hundred that I
+saw, I do not think that anyone of them is in there for other than just
+cause. They are made to work and some of them are very artistic and do
+most beautiful carvings on wood, bamboo and leather. It is very hard
+now to get any order filled, so great a demand has been created for
+their handi-work. I could not but notice the manner of the on-lookers
+as they came each day to see those poor wretches. They seemed to have
+no pity; and then, there were very few women who were prisoners. I do
+not remember seeing more than three or four in each of the five prisons
+that I visited. Orders were taken for the fancy articles made in these
+prisons. One warden said he had orders for several months' work ahead.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ILOILO AND JARO.
+
+CHAPTER EIGHT.
+
+
+We went from Manila to Iloilo on a Spanish steamer. I gave one look at
+the stateroom that was assigned to me and decided to sleep on deck in
+my steamer chair. I had been told that I positively could not eat the
+food which the ship would prepare, so I took a goodly supply with me.
+
+The captain was so gracious that I could not let him know my plans,
+so I pleaded illness but he ordered some things brought to me. There
+was a well prepared chicken with plenty of rice but made so hot
+with pepper that I threw it into the sea; next, some sort of salad
+floating in oil and smelling of garlic, it went overboard. Eggs
+cooked in oil followed the salad; last the "dulce," a composition of
+rice and custard perfumed with anise seed oil, made the menu of the
+fishes complete. I now gladly opened my box of crackers and cheese,
+oranges, figs and dates.
+
+As the sun declined, I sat watching the islands. We were passing
+by what is known as the inner course. They lay fair and fragrant as
+so many Edens afloat upon a body of water as beautiful as any that
+mortal eyes have ever seen. Huge palms rose high in air, their long
+feathery leaves swaying softly in the golden light. Darkness fell
+like a curtain; but the waters now gleamed like nether heavens with
+their own stars of phosphorescent light.
+
+On the voyage to Japan, a fellow passenger asked if I were sure that
+Iloilo was my destination in the Philippines and, being assured that
+it was, informed me that there was no such place on the ship's maps,
+which were considered very accurate. The Island of Panay was there,
+but no town of Iloilo.
+
+Iloilo (e-lo-e-lo) is the second city in size of the Philippines. It
+stands on a peninsula and has a good harbor if it were not for the
+shifting sands that make it rather difficult for the large steamers
+to come to the wharf and the tide running very high at times makes
+it harder still. There is a long wharf bordered with huge warehouses
+full of exports and imports. Vast quantities of sugar, hemp and
+tobacco are gathered here for shipment. It is a center of exchange,
+a place of large business, especially active during the first years
+of our occupation.
+
+Immense caravan trains go out from here to the various army posts to
+carry food and other supplies, while ships, like farm yards adrift,
+ply on the same errand between port and port. Cebu and Negros are
+the largest receiving stations.
+
+In the center of the town is the plaza or park. Here, after getting
+things in order, a pole was set, and the stars and stripes unfurled to
+the breeze. The quarters of our soldiers were near the park and so our
+boys had a pleasant place to lounge when off duty in the early morning
+or evening. When our troops first landed here in 1898 there was quite a
+battle, but I am not able to give its details. The results are obvious
+enough. The native army set fire to the city before fleeing across
+the river to the town of Jaro (Har-ro). The frame work of the upper
+part of the buildings was burned but the walls or lower part remains.
+
+After the battle at Jaro, I went out to live for awhile in the quarters
+of Captain Walter H. Gordon, Lieutenant J. Barnes, and Lieutenant
+A. L. Conger, 18th U. S. A. I soon realized that the war was still on,
+for every day and night, the rattle of musketry told that somewhere
+there was trouble.
+
+One day I went out to see the fortifications deserted by the
+Filipinos. They were curious indeed; built as an officer suggested, to
+be run away from, not to be defended. One fortification was ingeniously
+made of sacks of sugar. Everywhere was devastation and waste and
+burned buildings. The natives had fled to distant towns or mountains.
+
+All this sounds bad and looked worse, and yet it takes but a little
+while to restore all. The houses are quickly rebuilt; a bamboo roof
+is made, it is lifted to the desired height on poles set in or upon
+the ground. The walls are weavings of bamboo or are plaited nepa. The
+nepa is a variety of bamboo grown near shallow sea water. When one
+of these rude dwellings is completed, it is ready for an ordinary
+family. They do not use a single article that we consider essential
+to housekeeping. Some of the better class have a kind of stove;
+its top is covered with a layer of sand or small pebbles, four or
+five inches thick; on this stand bricks or small tripods to hold
+the little pots used in cooking. Under each pot is a tiny fire. The
+skillful cook plays upon his several fires as a musician upon his
+keys, adding a morsel of fuel to one, drawing a coal from another;
+stirring all the concoctions with the same spoon. The baking differs
+only in there being an upper story of coals on the lid.
+
+It has been said that fools rush in where angels fear to tread. Two
+or three of us American women, eager to learn all we could, because
+we were daily told that the war was over and we should soon be going
+home, were rashly venturesome. But we soon found that it was unsafe to
+go about Molo or Iloilo even with a guide, and so we had to content
+ourselves with looking at the quantities of beautiful things brought
+to our door. We were tempted daily to buy the lovely fabrics woven
+by the native women. Every incoming ship is beset by a swarm of small
+traders who find their best customers amongst American women. Officers
+and men, too, are generous buyers for friends at home. The native
+weaves of every quality and color are surprisingly beautiful.
+
+Jusa (hoo-sa) cloth is made from jusi fibre; pina (peen-yah) from
+pineapple fibre; cinemi is a mixture of the two; abaka (a-ba-ka) from
+hemp fibre; algodon from the native cotton; sada is silk; sabana is
+a mixture of cotton and hemp.
+
+We visited many of the places where the most extensive weaving is done,
+and there we saw the most wretched-looking, old women handling the
+hair-like threads. Each one had by her side some emblem of the Roman
+Church as she sat at her daily task. These poor, dirty, misshapen
+creatures, weaving from daylight to dark, earn about fifty cents
+a month. So many of the women are deformed and unclean, both the
+makers and the sellers, that it seemed utterly incongruous that they
+should handle the most delicate materials. In all my observations,
+I saw but one nice, clean woman of the lower classes. In our happy
+country we do not think of seeing a whole class of people diseased
+or maimed. In the Philippines one seldom sees a well formed person;
+or if the form is good, the face is disfigured by small-pox.
+
+I was surprised, at first, on looking out after breakfast, to find at
+my door every morning from two to a dozen women and boys in sitting
+posture, almost nude, only a thin waist on the body, and a piece
+of cotton drawn tightly round the legs. Many would be solemnly and
+industriously chewing the betel nut, which colors lips and saliva a
+vivid red.
+
+It would not only be impertinent on my part to relate particulars of
+our army, but I should undoubtedly do as Mrs. Partington did--"open
+my patrician mouth and put my plebeian foot in it." The first thing
+I did on arriving at Iloilo was to call mess "board" and go to bed
+instead of "turning in."
+
+In time of special danger, the various commanders were very kind in
+providing guards--mostly, however, to protect Government property. I
+felt no great uneasiness about personal safety, though I always
+"slept with one eye open." We were so frequently threatened that we
+stood ready every moment to move on. Shots during the night are not,
+as a rule, conducive to sleep, and I did not like the sound of the
+balls as they struck the house. I had my plans laid to get behind
+the stone wall at the rear of the passage and lie on the floor. It
+was necessary to keep a close watch on the servants who were "muchee
+hard luc" (very much afraid) at the slightest change in the movements
+of either army, home or foreign.
+
+Their system of wireless telegraphy was most efficient, so much so
+that one day at 2 P. M. I was told by a native of an engagement that
+had taken place at 10 A. M. in a distant part of the island, remote
+from the telegraph stations. I wondered how he could have known,
+and later learned of their systems of signaling by kites. For night
+messages the kites are illuminated. They are expert, not only in
+flying, but in making them.
+
+Their schools are like pandemonium let loose; all the pupils studying
+aloud together, making a deafening, rasping noise. Sessions from 7
+to 10 A. M., 3 to 6 P. M.
+
+The large Mexican dollars are too cumbersome to carry in any ordinary
+purse. If one wishes to draw even a moderate sum, it is necessary to
+take a cart or carriage. A good sized garden shovel on one side and a
+big canvas bag on the other expedites bank transactions in the islands.
+
+At the time of the evacuation of Jaro by the insurrectos, our officers
+chose their quarters from the houses the natives had fled from. The
+house which we occupied had formerly been used as the Portuguese
+Consulate. Like all the better houses the lower part was built of
+stone, and the upper part of boards. There was very little need of
+heavy boards or timbers except to hold the sliding windows. I should
+think the whole house was about eighty feet square with rear porch
+that was used for a summer garden. The pillars of this porch were
+things of real beauty. They were covered with orchids that in the
+hottest weather were all dried up and quite unsightly, but when the
+rainy season began they were very beautiful in their luxuriance of
+growth and bloom. The front door was in three parts; the great double
+doors which opened outward to admit carriages and a small door in one
+of the larger doors. There was a huge knocker, the upper part was a
+woman's head. To open the large doors it was necessary to pull the
+latch by a cord that came up through the floor to one of the inner
+rooms. I used to occupy this room at night and it was my office and my
+pleasure to pull the bobbin and let the latch fly up when the scouting
+troop would come in late at night. Captain Gordon said that he never
+found me napping, that I was always ready to greet them as soon as
+their horses turned the corner two squares away. The entrance door
+admitted to a great hall with a stone floor, ending in apartments
+for the horses. On the right of the hall were rooms for domestic
+purposes, such as for the family looms, four or five of them, and for
+stores of food and goods. On the left there were four steps up and
+then a platform, then three steps down into a room about twenty feet
+square. There were two windows in this room with heavy gratings. We
+used it as a store room for the medical supplies. Returning to the
+platform, there were two heavy doors that swung in, we kept them
+bolted with heavy wooden bolts; there were no locks on any doors. At
+the foot of the steps was a long narrow room with one small window;
+it was directly over the part where the animals were. The hall was
+lighted with quite a handsome Venetian glass chandelier in which we
+used candles. From this room we entered the large main room of the
+house; the ceiling and side wall was covered with leather or oil
+cloth held in place with large tacks; there were sliding windows on
+two sides of the room which, when shoved back, opened the room so
+completely as to give the effect of being out of doors; the front
+windows looked out on the street, the side windows on the garden,
+on many trees, cocoanut, chico, bamboo, and palm. There was a large
+summer house in the center of the garden and the paths which led up
+to it were bordered with empty beer bottles. The garden was enclosed
+by a plastered wall about eight feet high, into the top of which were
+inserted broken bottles and sharp irons to keep out intruders. The
+house was covered with a sheet iron roof. The few dishes that we
+found upon our occupation were of excellent china but the three
+or four sideboards were quite inferior. The whole house was wired
+for bells. This is true of many of the houses, indeed they are all
+fashioned on one model, and all plain in finish, extra carving or fine
+wood-work would only make more work for the busy little ants. Even
+when furniture looked whole, we often found ourselves landed on the
+floor; it was no uncommon thing for a chair to give way; it had been
+honeycombed and was held together by the varnish alone.
+
+My first evening in Jaro was one of great fear. We were told by a
+priest that we were to be attacked and burned out. While sitting
+at dinner I heard just behind me a fearful noise that sounded like
+"Gluck-co-gluck-co." An American officer told me it was an alarm
+clock, but as a matter of fact it was an immense lizard, an animal
+for which I soon lost all antipathy, because of its appetite for the
+numerous bugs that infest the islands. Unfortunately they have no
+taste for the roaches, the finger-long roaches that crawl all over
+the floor. Neither were they of assistance in exterminating the huge
+rats and mice, nor the ants. The ants! It is impossible to describe
+how these miserable pests overran everything; they were on the beds,
+they were on the tables. Our table legs were set in cups of coal
+oil and our floors were washed with coal oil at least once every
+week. This disagreeable condition of things will not be wondered at,
+when I say that the horses, cattle, and carabao are kept in the lower
+part of the house, and the pigs, cats, and dogs allowed up stairs with
+the family. The servants are required to stay below with the cattle.
+
+The animals are all diseased, especially the horses. Our men were
+careful that their horses were kept far from the native beasts. The
+cats are utterly inferior. The mongoose, a little animal between
+a ferret and a rat, is very useful; no well-kept house is without
+one. Rats swarm in such vast hordes that the mongoose is absolutely
+necessary to keep them down. Still more necessary is the house
+snake. These reptiles are brought to market on a bamboo pole and
+usually sell for about one dollar apiece. Mine used to make great
+havoc among the rats up in the attic. Never before had I known what
+rats were. Every night, notwithstanding the mongoose, the house snake,
+and the traps, I used to lay in a supply of bricks, anything to throw
+at them when they would congregate in my room and have a pitched
+battle. They seemed to stand in awe of United States officers. A
+soldier said one night, glancing about, "Why, I thought the rats moved
+out all of your furniture." They would often carry things up to the
+zinc roof of our quarters, drop them, and then take after with rush
+and clatter, the snake in full chase. Mice abound, and lizards are
+everywhere, of every shape, every size, and every color.
+
+I spent a large part of my time leaning out of my window; there
+was so much to see. The expulsion of the insurrectos had just been
+effected, and very few of the natives remained, but as soon as they
+were thoroughly convinced that our troops had actually taken the town,
+they flocked in by the hundreds, the men nearly naked, always barefoot,
+the women in their characteristic bright red skirts.
+
+The entire time spent there was full of surprises, the customs, dress,
+food, and religious ceremonies continually furnishing matter of intense
+and varied interest. I noticed, especially, how little the men and
+women went about together, riding or walking, or to church. Neither
+do they sit together, or rather should say "squat," for, even in the
+fine churches, the women squatted in the center aisles, while the
+men were ranged in side aisles. There are few pews, and these few,
+rarely occupied, were straight and uncomfortable. No effort was ever
+made to make them comfortable, not to mention ornamental.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE NATIVES.
+
+CHAPTER NINE.
+
+
+The natives are, as a rule, small, with a yellowish brown skin; noses
+not large, lips not thick, but teeth very poor. Many of them have
+cleft palate or harelip, straight hair very black, and heads rather
+flattened on top. I examined many skulls and found the occiput and
+first cervical ankylosed. It occurred to me it might be on account
+of the burdens they carry upon their heads in order to leave their
+arms free to carry a child on the hips, to tuck in a skirt, or care
+for the cigars.
+
+The Filipino skirt is a wonder. It is made by sewing together the
+ends of a straight piece of cloth about three yards long. To hold it
+in place on the body, a plait is laid in the top edge at the right,
+and a tuck at the left, and there it stays--till it loosens. One
+often sees them stop to give the right or left a twist. The fullness
+in the front is absolutely essential for them to squat as they are so
+accustomed to do while performing all sorts of work, such as washing,
+ironing, or, in the market place, selling all conceivable kinds of
+wares. The waist for the rich and poor alike is of one pattern, the
+only variation being in the quality. It has a plain piece loose at
+the waist line for the body, a round hole for the rather low neck,
+the sleeves straight and extending to the wrist, about three-fourths
+of a yard wide. These sleeves are gathered on the shoulder to fit the
+individual. A square handkerchief folded three times in the center is
+placed round the neck and completes the costume. As fast as riches
+are amassed, trains are assumed. All clothing is starched with rice
+and stands out rigidly.
+
+The materials are largely woven by the people themselves, and the finer
+fabrics are beautiful in texture and fineness, some of the strands
+being so fine that several are used to make one thread. By weaving
+one whole day from dawn to dark, only a quarter of a yard of material
+is produced. The looms, the cost of which is about fifty cents, are
+all made by hand from bamboo; the reels and bobbins, which complete
+the outfit, raise the value of the whole to about a dollar. There is
+rarely a house that does not keep from one to a dozen looms. The jusi,
+made from the jusi that comes in the thread from China, is colored
+to suit the fancy of the individual, but is not extensively used by
+the natives, who usually prefer the abuka, pina, or sinamay, which
+are products of the abuka tree, or pineapple fibre. The quality of
+these depends on the fineness of the threads. It is very delicate,
+yet durable, and--what is most essential--can be washed.
+
+The common natives seem to have no fixed hours for their meals, nor
+do they have any idea of gathering around the family board. After
+they began to use knives and forks one woman said she would rather
+not use her knife, it cut her mouth so. Even the best of them prefer
+to squat on the floor, make a little round ball of half cooked rice
+with the tips of their fingers and throw it into the mouth.
+
+My next door neighbor was considered one of the better class of
+citizens, and through my window I could not help, in the two years
+of my stay, seeing much of the working part of her household. There
+were pigs, chickens, ducks, and turkeys, either running freely about
+the kitchen or tied by the leg to the kitchen stove. The floors of
+these kitchens are never tight; they allow the greater part of the
+accumulated filth of all these animals to sift through to the ground
+below. There were about fifteen in the family; this meant fifteen or
+twenty servants, but as there are few so poor in the islands as to be
+unable to command a poorer still, these chief servants had a crowd
+of underlings responsible to themselves alone. The head cook had
+a wife, two children and two servants that got into their quarters
+by crawling up an old ladder. I climbed up one day to see how much
+space they had. I put my head in at the the opening that served them
+for door and window, but could not get my shoulders in. The whole
+garret was about eight feet long and six feet wide. One end of it
+was partitioned off for their fighting cocks.
+
+All the time I was there this family of the cook occupied that loft,
+and the two youngest ones squalled night and day, one or other, or
+both of them. There was not a single thing in that miserable hole
+for those naked children to lie on or to sit on. The screams or the
+wails of the wretched babies, the fighting of the rats under foot, the
+thud of the bullets at one's head, the constant fear of being burned
+out,--these things are not conducive to peaceful slumbers, but to
+frightful dreams, to nightmare, to hasty wakenings from uneasy sleep.
+
+As soon as there is the slightest streak of dawn, the natives begin to
+work and clatter and chatter. No time is lost bathing or dressing. They
+wear to bed, or rather to floor or mat, the little that they have
+worn through the day, and rise and go to work next day without change
+of clothing. It never occurs to them to wash their hands except when
+they go to the well, once a day perhaps. While at the well they will
+pour water from a cocoanut shell held above the head and let it run
+down over the body, never using soap or towels. They rub their bodies
+sometimes with a stone. It does not matter which way you turn you see
+hundreds of natives at their toilet. One does not mind them more than
+the carabao in some muddy pond, and one is just about as cleanly as
+the other. They make little noise going to and fro, all being barefoot;
+but it was not long until I learned to know whether there were three,
+fifty, or one hundred passing by the swish of their bare feet.
+
+The fathers seem to lavish more affection on the children than the
+mothers, and no wonder. Even President Roosevelt would be satisfied
+with the size of families that vary from fifteen to thirty. They do
+not seem to make any great ado if one or more die. Such little bits
+of humanity, such wasted corpses; it hardly seems that the shrunken
+form could ever have breathed, it looks so little and pinched and
+starved. There was a pair of twins, a boy and a girl, which were
+said to be twenty-five years old, that were the most hideous looking
+things I ever saw. They were two feet high, with huge heads out of
+all proportion to their bodies. They used to go about the streets
+begging and giving concerts to get money. I understand that they are
+now somewhere in America.
+
+I became very much interested in a man with only one leg. I wanted
+to get him a wooden mate for it, but he said he didn't want it; that
+he could get around faster with one leg, and he certainly could take
+longer leaps than any two legged creature. Even when talking he never
+sat down. He had admirable control of his muscles. A little above
+the average height, his one leggedness made him seem over six feet.
+
+It was out of the question to take the census of any town or province,
+because of the shifting population. It is nothing for a family to move
+many times in the course of the year; they can make thirty or forty
+miles a day. They have absolutely nothing to move unless it might be
+the family cooking "sow-sow" pot, which is hung over the shoulder
+on a string, or carried on top of the head. I used often to see a
+family straggling along with anywhere from ten to twenty children,
+seemingly all of a size, going to locate at some other place. One
+family came to Jaro the night before market day. They had about six
+dozen of eggs. I said I would buy all of them; the woman cried and
+said she was sorry, as she would have nothing to sell in the market
+place the next day. At night the whole family cuddled down in a corner
+of the stable and slept.
+
+The native cook we employed proved to be a good one, and was willing to
+learn American ways of cooking. We did not know he had a family. One
+morning while attending to my duties there appeared a woman about
+five feet tall, with one shoulder about four inches higher than the
+other, one hip dislocated, one eye crossed, a harelip, which made
+the teeth part in the middle, mouth and lips stained blood red with
+betel juice, clothes--a rag or two. I screamed at her to run away,
+which she did instantly. I supposed she was some tramp who wanted to
+get a look at a white woman. She proved to be the wife of our cook,
+and after I had become accustomed to her dreadful looks, she became
+invaluable to me. Hardly anyone would have recognized her the day
+that she accompanied me to the dock. The little money that she had
+earned she had immediately put into an embroidered waist and long
+black satin train; and as I bade her good-bye she left an impression
+quite different from the first, and I am sure that the tears she shed
+were not of the crocodile kind.
+
+The first native, Anastasio Alingas, whom we employed proved to be
+the very worst we could have found. He not only stole from us right
+before my eyes, but right before the eyes of our large household. He
+took the captain's pistol, holster, and ammunition. We could not have
+been more than five or ten feet from him at the time, for it was the
+rule then to have our fire-arms handy.
+
+With an air of innocence, child-like and bland, he diverted suspicion
+to our laundry man and allowed him to be taken to prison. It was
+only after being arrested himself that he confessed and restored the
+revolver. He was allowed to go on the promise that he would never
+come any nearer than twenty miles to Jaro. He had been systematically
+lying and stealing. He used to come with tears streaming down his
+face and say that some man had stolen market money intrusted to
+him. He plundered the store-room, though it was hard to tell which
+stole the most, he or the wild monkeys that were about the house. He
+had pretended to be eager to learn, and had been so tractable that
+we were greatly disappointed to have him turn out such a bad boy. We
+found this true of every man that we tried, and most strongly true
+of the ones who pretended to be the best.
+
+All the servants, all the natives, prized highly our tin cans
+from the commissary, as we emptied them. They used to come miles
+for them. Cocoanut shells and hollow bamboo stalks are the common
+vessels. A few old cans furnished a valuable ten cent store. The
+variety of uses to which these cans were turned was remarkable.
+
+None of the so-called better class work at anything. They all carry
+huge bundles of keys at their side, and in most stentorian voice
+call out many times during the day "machacha" to a servant, who is to
+perform some very small service which her mistress could easily have
+done herself without any effort, and these lazy machachas saunter about
+in the most deliberate manner and do whatever they are asked to do in
+the most ungracious way. These so-called ladies beat their servants. I
+often interfered by pounding with a stick on the side of my window
+to attract their attention; that was all that was necessary. They
+were ashamed to have me see them. One time in particular, a woman
+took a big paddle, such as they use for pounding their clothes,
+and hit a small, sick looking creature again and again on the bare
+shoulders. What the offense was I do not know, but certainly the
+beating was such as I have never seen administered to anything.
+
+The servants always walk about three feet behind the mistresses and
+carry their parcels, but they seldom walk, however, for they ride even
+when the distance is short. The grand dames affect a great deal of
+modesty and delicacy of feeling. On a certain occasion they sent word
+to the commanding general that it would be a serious shock to their
+feelings to have the execution of a criminal take place in the center
+of the town. The gallows were erected in the suburbs. Immediately
+all the natives were set to work to make hiding places where these
+sensitive ladies, unseen, could witness the execution. From early
+dawn until 9 A. M. carriages were carrying these delicate creatures
+to their secret stations. Not one of them in the whole village of
+Jaro but was on the watch. They supposed, of course, that I would
+be so interested that I would take a prominent part; that executions
+were common festivals in the United States.
+
+The criminal himself had no idea that his sentence would be enforced,
+even up to the last moment he took it as a huge joke, and when he was
+taken to the general said he would like to be excused, and offered
+to implicate others who were more guilty than himself.
+
+Many questions were asked me concerning our methods of execution,
+and great was the surprise when I confessed that I had never seen one
+myself, nor did I ever expect to see one; that my countrywomen would
+be horrified to witness such a sight; and that on the present occasion
+I had gone to the adjoining town six miles away to escape it all. I
+was shown several pictures of the victim taken by a Chinese artist.
+
+A man buys at a booth one penny's worth of what is known as "sow-sow"
+for himself and family. I have often looked into the sow-sow pots,
+but was never able to make out what was contained therein. The
+children buy little rice cakes, thin, hard, and indigestible as bits
+of slate. The children's stomachs are abnormally large; due, perhaps,
+to the half-cooked rice and other poorly prepared food. When it comes
+to the choice of caring for the child or the fighting cock, the cock
+has the preference. The bird is carried as fondly and as carefully as
+if it were a superior creature. It was strange to see how they would
+carry these birds on their palms; nor did they attempt to fly away,
+but would sit there and crow contentedly.
+
+We had at one time five or six carpenters to do some bamboo work. They
+brought their fighting cocks along with them for amusement when they
+were not at work, which was every moment our backs were turned. They
+are so used to being driven that it never occurs to them to go on
+with their work unless someone is overseeing them. They began by
+putting the bamboo at the top of the room and working down, braiding,
+plaiting and splitting, putting in a bit here and there in a very
+deft way without a nail. They did all the cutting sitting down on
+the floor and holding the smooth bamboo pieces with their feet,
+while they sawed the various lengths with a bolo.
+
+When they had completed the partition, I said to the foreman,
+"How much for the day's work for all." The head man very politely
+informed me that he did not propose to pay these other men anything;
+if I wanted to pay them all right, but he would not. The defrauded ones
+got down on their knees to beg for their pay. I called in a priest who
+could talk some English, and explained the situation to him. He told
+me frankly that I would have to pay these other men just the same,
+notwithstanding that I had paid the foreman the full amount. He
+said I had better do it, because if I did not the men would bring
+vengeance upon me. They have no idea of justice or honor. What is
+true of business is true of every act of theirs, as far as I know.
+
+An American woman told me that her husband could not attend to his
+military duties because he had to watch the nine natives who came
+to his house to do work. He had to keep account of their irregular
+comings and goings, to examine each one that he did not steal, to
+investigate his work that it was not half done. Men and women are
+alike--they must be watched every moment, because they have been
+so long watched and driven. If women who are hired and paid by the
+month break or destroy the least thing, its value is taken out of
+their wages and they are beaten. It was very astonishing to me to see,
+notwithstanding this serfdom, that they remain submissive to the same
+masters and mistresses.
+
+A man was condemned to die by one of the secret societies. His most
+faithful servant, a member of the order, was chosen to execute the
+sentence. He calmly met his master at the door, made a thrust at him
+and wounded him slightly, struck again, and again; the third blow
+was fatal. The servant was never punished for the crime. It happened
+just a few doors from where I was living. There was a large funeral
+procession and a huge black cross was placed at the door, and that
+ended the matter, so far as I know. They place little value upon life;
+they seem to think death is but the gate to great happiness, no matter
+what its manner may be. I used to see many persons, men and women,
+with crosses on their throats and bodies. I asked ever so many what
+it meant, but was never able to find out. It was never seen upon the
+so-called better class. Much that I learned of the various tribes and
+various castes was told me by a converted Filipino, Rev. Manakin. He
+expected any time to be placed under the ban of the secret societies
+and killed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+WOOINGS AND WEDDINGS.
+
+CHAPTER TEN.
+
+
+The manner of wooing is rather peculiar. The man who wishes to pay his
+addresses to a woman gets the consent of her father and mother. He is
+received by the entire family when he calls, but is never allowed,
+in any way, to show her any special favor or attention; he must
+devote himself to the entire family. If he wishes to take her to a
+theatre, or concert, or dance, he must take the entire family. For
+about a week before the marriage the bride elect is carried about in
+a sort of wicker bamboo hammock borne on the shoulders of two young
+men and she goes about paying visits to her intimate friends; she is
+not allowed to put foot to the ground or do any sort of menial labor.
+
+Mothers brought their young daughters to me daily to importune me to
+choose a sweetheart for my son or for any other officer who happened
+to be at our headquarters. I know that one young officer was offered
+$100,000 to marry the daughter of one of the richest men in the town
+of Molo, and it was a great wonder to the father that the young man
+could refuse so brilliant a match socially, to say nothing of it
+financially. There happened to be a young Englishman in the regular
+service whose time expired while he was at Jaro. He had been cook and
+valet for an officer's mess and was really a very fine fellow. He was
+immediately chosen by a wealthy Filipino to marry his daughter. The
+young man not only got a wife but a very handsome plantation of sugar
+and rice; perhaps not the only foreign husband secured by a good dowry.
+
+The trousseau of a rich Filipino girl consists of dozens and dozens
+of rich dresses; no other article is of interest. They do not need the
+lingerie. Among the common people it is simply an arrangement between
+the mother and the groom or it can all be arranged with the priest. I
+have seen as many as fifteen young girls sitting in the market place
+while their mothers told of their various good qualities. Marriage is
+not a question of affection, seemingly. The only thing necessary is
+money enough to pay the priest. Very often all rites are set aside;
+the man chooses his companion, the two live together and probably
+rear a large family.
+
+I was told that there are two sets of commandments in use--one for
+the rich, the other for the poor.
+
+I was glad to accept the kind invitation of a rich and influential
+family to their daughter's wedding. At the proper hour, I presented
+myself at the church door and was politely escorted to a seat. There
+was music. The natives came dressed in their best, and squatted
+upon the floor of the cathedral. After a long time the bride elect
+sauntered in with three or four of her attendants not especially
+attired, nor did they march in to music but visited along the way as
+they came straggling in. Soon the groom shuffled in, I say shuffled
+because they have so recently begun to wear shoes. The bridal group
+gathered before the altar and listened to the ritual. Finally the
+groom took the bride's hand for one brief moment. A few more words
+by the priest and the ceremony was ended. To my surprise the bride
+came up and greeted me. I did not understand what I was expected to do
+but I shook hands and said I hoped she would be very happy. The groom
+now came up and bowing low presented his "felicitations." I returned
+the bow but could not muster a word. The women straggled out on one
+side of the cathedral and the men on the other. This was considered
+a first class "matrimony." There was a very large reception at the
+house with a grand ball in the evening; indeed, there were two or
+three days of festivities.
+
+In contrast to this was the wholesale matrimonial bureau which was
+conducted every Saturday morning. I have seen as many as ten couples
+married all at once. I never knew which man was married to which woman,
+as the men stood grouped on one side of the priest and the women on the
+other. I asked one groom, "Which is your wife?" He scanned the crowd of
+brides a moment then said comfortably, "Oh, she is around somewhere."
+
+I used to go to the cathedral on Saturdays to see the various
+ceremonies. The most interesting of all the cheap baptisms at
+which all the little babies born during the week were baptized for
+ten cents. These pitiable little creatures, deformed and shrunken,
+were too weak to wail, or, perhaps they were too stupified with
+narcotics. A large candle was put into each little bird-claw, the
+nurse or mother holding it in place above the passive body covered
+only with a scrap of gauze but decked out with paper flowers, huge
+pieces of jewelry, odd trinkets, anything they had--all dirty, mother,
+child, ornaments; the onlookers still more dirty. The priest whom
+I knew very well, since he lived just across the way, told me that
+few of these cheap babies live long. I am sure they could not; not
+one of them would weigh five pounds. They were all emaciated; death
+would be a mercy. There was a little fellow next door to whom I was
+very much attached. The dear little naked child would stay with me
+by the day if I would have him; he was four years old but no larger
+than an American baby of four months. I used to long for a rocking
+chair that I might sing him to sleep but he had no idea of sleeping
+when he was with me. His great brown eyes would look into my face
+with an intensity of love; he would gaze at me till I feared that he
+was something uncanny. If I gave him a lump of sugar, he would hold it
+reverently a long time before he would presume to eat it. Every day he
+and other little devoted natives would bring me bouquets of flowers,
+stuck on the spikes of a palm or on tooth picks. No well regulated
+house but has bundles of tooth picks arranged in fancy shapes such as
+fans and flowers. All their sideboards and tables have huge bouquets
+of these wonderfully wrought and gayly ornamental tooth picks.
+
+They carve with skill; out of a bit of wood or bamboo they will
+whittle a book, so pretty as to be worth four or five dollars.
+
+One day I made a woman understand by signs that I should like to weave;
+she nodded approval and in a little while a loom was brought to the
+house; we went over to the market, purchased our fiber and began. I
+found it a difficult task, as I had to sit in a cramped position;
+and the slippery treadles of round bamboo polished by use were hard
+to manage. I did better without shoes. The weaving was a diversion;
+it occupied my time when the soldiers were out of the quarters. I will
+not deny that yards of the fabric were watered with my tears. There
+was dangerous and exhausting work for our troops; and there were bad
+reports that many were mutilated and killed.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MY FIRST FOURTH IN THE PHILIPPINES.
+
+CHAPTER ELEVEN.
+
+
+I can not tell what joy it was to me to see my son and the members
+of the troop come riding into town alive and well after a hard
+campaign. They looked as if they had seen service, and what huge
+appetites they brought with them. On the third of July, 1900, I heard
+that the boys were coming back on the Fourth. Learning that there
+was nothing for their next day's rations I decided to prepare a good
+old-fashioned dinner myself. All night long I baked and boiled and
+prepared that meal; eighty-three pumpkin pies, fifty-two chickens,
+three hams, forty cakes, ginger-bread, 'lasses candy, pickles,
+cheese, coffee, and cigars. Having purchased from a Chinese some fire
+crackers--as soon as there was a streak of dawn--I went to my window
+and lighted those crackers. It was such a surprise to the entire town;
+they came to see what could be the matter, as no firing was permitted
+in the city. We began our first Fourth in true American style, as the
+"Old Glory" was being raised we sang "Star Spangled Banner." Many
+joined in the chorus and in the Hip! Hip! Hurrah! I keep in a small
+frame the grateful acknowledgment of the entire Company that was
+given to me from the Gordon Scouts:
+
+
+Jaro, Panay, P. I., July 4th, 1900.
+To Mrs. A. L. Conger:
+
+
+We, the undersigned, members of Gordon's Detachment, of Mounted
+Eighteenth Infantry Scouts, desire, in behalf of the entire troop,
+to express our thanks for and appreciation of the excellent dinner
+prepared and furnished us by Mrs. A. L. Conger, July 4th, 1900. It
+was especially acceptable coming as it did immediately after return
+from arduous field service against Filipino insurrectos and, being
+prepared and tendered us by one of our own brave and kind American
+women, it was doubly so.
+
+It is the earnest wish of the detachment that Mrs. Conger may never
+know less pleasure than was afforded us by such a noble example of
+patriotic American womanhood.
+
+
+Respectfully,
+
+[Signed]
+
+
+I prepared other dinners at various times, but this first spread was
+to them and to myself a very great pleasure.
+
+Letters from home were full of surprise that we still stayed though
+the war was over--the newspapers said it was. For us the anxiety and
+struggle still went on. To be sure there were no pitched battles but
+the skirmishing was constant; new outbreaks of violence and cruelty
+were daily occurring, entailing upon our men harassing watch and
+chase. The insurrectos were butchers to their own people. Captain
+N. told me that he hired seven native men to do some work around the
+barracks up in the country and paid them in American money, good
+generous wages. They carried the money to their leader who was so
+indignant that they had worked for the Americans that he ordered them
+to dig their graves and, with his own hands, cut, mutilated, and killed
+six of them. The seventh survived. Bleeding and almost lifeless, he
+crawled back to the American quarters and told his story. The captain
+took a guide and a detail, found the place described, exhumed the
+bodies and verified every detail of the inhuman deed.
+
+They committed many bloody deeds, then swiftly drew back to the
+swamps and thickets impenetrable to our men. The very day, the hour,
+that the Peace Commissioner, Governor Taft, Judge Wright and others
+to the number of thirty were enjoying an elegantly prepared repast
+at Jaro there was, within six miles, a spirited conflict going on,
+our boys trying to capture the most blood-thirsty villains of the
+islands. This gang had hitherto escaped by keeping near the shore and
+the impenetrable swamps of the manglares. No foot but a Filipino's
+can tread these jungles. When driven into the very closest quarters,
+they take to their boats, and slip away to some nearby island.
+
+I hope that my son and his men will pardon me for telling that they
+rushed into some fortifications that they saw on one of their perilous
+marches and with a sudden fusillade captured the stronghold. The
+Filipinos had a company of cavalry, one of infantry, one of bolo men,
+and reserves. The insurrecto captain told me himself that he never was
+so surprised, mortified, and grieved that such a thing could have been
+done. They thought there was a large army back of this handful of men,
+eleven in all. General R. P. Hughes sent the following telegram to
+my son, and his brave scouts: "To Lieutenant Conger, June 14, 1900,
+Iloilo. I congratulate you and your scouts on your great success. No
+action of equal dash and gallantry has come under my notice in the
+Philippines." (Signed) R. P. Hughes.
+
+All this time there were negotiations going on to secure surrender and
+the oath of allegiance. Those who vowed submission did not consider
+it at all binding.
+
+General Del Gardo surrendered with protestations of loyalty and has
+honored his word ever since; he is now Governor of the Island of Panay
+(pan-i). He is very gentlemanly in appearance and bearing and has
+assumed the duties of his new office with much dignity. Just recently
+I learn, to my surprise, that he does not recognize the authority
+of the "Presidente" of the town of Oton, who was appointed before
+the surrender of General Del Gardo, and that therefore the very fine
+flag raising we had on the Fourth of July, 1900, is not considered
+legal. We had a famous day of it at the time. All the soldiers who
+could be spared marched to Oton. There was a company of artillery,
+some cavalry, and the scouts. From other islands, Americans and our
+sick soldiers were brought by steamer as near as possible and then
+landed in small boats. We were somewhat delayed in arriving but
+were greeted in a most friendly manner by the whole town. We were
+escorted up to the house of the Presidente and were immediately
+served with refreshments that were most lavish in quantity, color,
+shape and kind; too numerous in variety to taste, and too impossible
+of taste to partake. After the parade, came the running up of the
+flag, made by the women of the town. The shouting and the cheering
+vied with the band playing "America," "Hail Columbia," and the
+"Star Spangled Banner." It was indeed an American day celebrated
+in loyal fashion--certainly by the Americans. It was the very first
+flag raising in the Islands by the Filipinos themselves. It is with
+regret that I hear that General Del Gardo has refused officially to
+recognize this historic occasion. After these ceremonies we had the
+banquet. I do not recall any dish that was at all like our food except
+small quail, the size of our robins. Where and how they captured all
+the birds that were served to that immense crowd and how they ever
+prepared the innumerable kinds of refreshments no one will ever know
+but themselves. We were all objects of curiosity. The natives for
+miles around flocked in to gaze upon the Americans. At this place
+there is one of the finest cathedrals on the Island of Panay, large
+enough for a whole regiment of soldiers to quarter in, as once happened
+during a very severe storm. The reredos was especially fine. It was
+in the center of the cathedral and was almost wholly constructed of
+hammered silver of very intricate pattern and design. Nave, choir,
+and transepts were ornamented with exquisite carving in stone and wood.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FLOWERS, FRUITS AND BERRIES.
+
+CHAPTER TWELVE.
+
+
+Fruits are of many varieties; the most luscious are the mangoes. There
+is only one crop a year; the season lasts from April to July. It is
+a long, kidney-shaped fruit. It seems to me most delicious, but some
+do not like it at all. The flavor has the richness and sweetness of
+every fruit that one can think of. They disagree with some persons
+and give rise to a heat rash. For their sweet sake, I took chances and
+ended by making a business of eating and taking the consequences. The
+mango tree has fine green satin leaves; the fruit is not allowed to
+ripen on the tree. The natives pick mangoes as we pick choice pears
+and let them ripen before eating. They handle them just as carefully,
+and place them in baskets that hold just one layer. The best mangoes
+are sometimes fifty cents a piece. The fruit that stands next in favor
+is the chico. It looks not unlike a russet apple on the outside, but
+the inside has, when ripe, a brown meat and four or five black seeds
+quite like watermelon seeds. It is rich and can be eaten with impunity.
+
+The banana grows everywhere, and its varieties are as numerous as
+those of our apple; its colors, its sizes, manifold. Some about
+the size of one's finger are deliciously sweet and juicy. They grow
+seemingly without any cultivation whatever, by the road as freely
+as in the gardens. Guavas are plentiful, oranges abundant but poor
+in quality. The pomelo is like our "grape fruit," but larger, less
+bitter and less juicy. Cut into squares or sections and served with a
+sauce of white of egg and sugar beaten together it is a delicious dish.
+
+There are no strawberries or raspberries, but many kinds of small
+fruits, none of which I considered at all palatable, although some
+of them looked delicious hanging upon the trees or bushes. There is a
+small green kind of cherry full of tiny seeds that the natives prize
+and enjoy. The fruits of one island are common to all.
+
+The flora of the country was not seen at its best; many of the natives
+told me. Trees, shrubs, gardens and plantations had been trampled by
+both armies and left to perish. Our government took up the work of
+restoration as soon as possible. The few roses that I saw were not of a
+particularly good quality, nor did they have any fragrance. No one can
+ever know what joy thrilled me when one day I found some old fashioned
+four o'clocks growing in the church yard. The natives do not care to
+use the natural flowers in the graceful sprays or luxuriant clusters in
+which they grow. They usually stick them on the sharp spikes of some
+small palm or wind them on a little stick to make a cone or set the
+spikelets side by side in a flat block. They much prefer artificial
+stiffness to natural grace. In the hundreds of funeral ceremonies
+that I saw I never noticed the use of a single natural blossom. The
+flowers were all artificial, of silk, paper, or tissue. One reason,
+perhaps, of this choice is that all vegetation is infested with ants;
+they can scarcely be seen, but, oh, they can be felt! The first time
+I was out driving I begged the guard to gather me huge bunches of
+most exquisite blooms but I was soon eager to throw them all out;
+the ants swarmed upon me and drove me nearly frantic. I learned to
+shun my own garden paths and to content myself with looking out of
+the window on the plants below. There are many birds but no songsters.
+
+The betel nut is about the size of a walnut. The kernel is white
+like the cocoanut. They wrap a bit of this kernel with a pinch of
+air-slacked lime in a pepper leaf, then chew, chew, all day, and
+in intervals of chewing they spray the vividly colored saliva on
+door-step, pavement and church floor.
+
+I often watched the natives climb the tall cocoanut trees, about
+eighty feet high, with only the fine fern-like leaves at the extreme
+top. These trees yield twenty to fifty cocoanuts per month and live to
+a great age. No one can have any idea of the delicious milk until he
+has drunk it fresh from the recently gathered nuts. A young native will
+climb as nimbly and as swiftly as a monkey, and will be as unfettered
+by dress as his Darwinian brother. The fruit is severed from the tree
+by the useful bolo.
+
+The flowers in the parks when I saw them had all been trampled into the
+mud by the soldiers of both armies, but I was told that they had been
+very beautiful. There were also large trees, bearing huge clusters of
+blooms; one bunch had seventy-five blossoms, each as large as a fair
+sized nasturtium. These are called Fire or Fever Trees, since they
+have the appearance of being on fire and bloom in the hot season when
+fever is most prevalent. Other trees whose name I do not recall bear
+equally large clusters of purple flowers. The palms are large and grow
+in great luxuriance, and the double hibiscus look like large pinks.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE MARKETS.
+
+CHAPTER THIRTEEN.
+
+
+The market day is the great day of every town. A certain part of
+every village is prepared with booths and stalls to display wares of
+endless variety. We all looked forward to market day. There were mats
+of various sizes,--mats are used for everything. There are some so
+skillfully woven that they are handsome ornaments, worth as much as
+a good rug. There were hats woven out of the most delicately shredded
+fibers, the best costing from twelve to twenty dollars in gold, very
+durable and very beautiful. The best ones can be woven only in a damp
+place, as the fiber must be kept moist while being handled. There
+were fish nets of abaka differing in mesh to suit the various kinds
+of fish. The cloths were hung on lines to show their texture. We had
+to pick our way amongst the stalls and through or over the natives
+seated on the ground. I have seen a space of two acres covered with
+hundreds of natives, carabao, trotting bulls, chickens, turkeys,
+ducks, fine goods, vegetables, and fruits all in one mass; and I had
+to keep a good lookout where I stepped and what I ran into. It was
+not necessary to go often for they were more than willing to bring all
+their wares to the house if they had any prospects of a sale. I have
+had as many as thirty natives troop into the house at one time. They
+finally became so obnoxious that I forbade them coming at all.
+
+The silence of these crowds was noticeable. They were keenly alive
+to business and did not laugh and joke or even talk in reasonable
+measure. As a race they are solemn even in their looks, and no wonder,
+such is their degradation, misery, and despair. They have so little
+sympathy and care for each other, so little comfort, and so neglected
+and hopeless, so sunken beneath the so-called better class that when
+a little mission gospel was started one could hardly refrain from
+tears to see the joy that they had in accepting the free gospel. It
+was no trouble for them to walk thirty or forty miles to get what
+they called cheap religion. They were outcasts from society and too
+poor to pay the tithes that were imposed upon them by the priests in
+their various parishes, for no matter how small a village was there
+was the very elegant cathedral in the center of the town which only
+the rich and those who were able to pay were entitled to enter.
+
+The poor blind people wandered from village to village in groups
+of two to twenty. Quite a number of the moderately insane would go
+about begging, too, but the worst were chained to trees or put in
+stocks and their food thrown at them. Even the dumb brutes were not
+so poorly cared for.
+
+The houses of the rich, while not cleanly and not well furnished,
+always have one large room in which stands a ring of chairs with a
+rug in the center of the floor and a cuspidor by each seat. You are
+ushered in and seated in one of these low square chairs, usually cane
+seated. After the courtesies of the day and the hostess's comments on
+the fineness of your clothing, refreshments are brought in,--cigars,
+cigarettes, wine, cake, and preserved cocoanut. Sometimes American
+beer is added as possibly more acceptable than the wine.
+
+The citizens of Jaro seemed to be friendly, they often invited me
+to their festivities; committees would wait upon me, presenting me
+sometimes invitations engraved upon silver with every appearance of
+cordiality in expression and manner. They could not understand why
+I would not accept; I would explain, that first, I had no desire;
+second, I thought it poor policy to do so when our soldiers were
+obliged to fight their soldiers, and they were furnishing the money
+to carry on the warfare; then too, most of their balls were given on
+Sunday night. True, a Filipino Sunday never seemed Sunday to me. I
+could only say, foolishly enough, "But it is not Sunday at home." I
+could not attend their parties and I had little heart to dance. I
+had only to go to the window to see their various functions; it
+could hardly be called merry as they went at it in such a listless,
+lazy way, with apparently little enjoyment, the air that they carry
+into all their pleasures.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+PHILIPPINE AGRICULTURE.
+
+CHAPTER FOURTEEN.
+
+
+It has been said that the prosperity of any nation depends largely
+upon its agriculture. The soil in the Philippines is very rich. The
+chief product, which the natives spend the most time upon, is rice;
+and even that is grown, one almost might say, without any care,
+especially after seeing the way the Japanese till their rice. They
+sow the rice broadcast in little square places of about half an acre
+which is partly filled with water. When this has grown eight or ten
+inches high they transplant it into other patches which have been
+previously scratched over with a rude one-handled plow that often
+has for a point only a piece of an old tin can or a straggly root,
+and into this prepared bit of land they open the dyke and let in the
+water; that is all that is necessary until the harvesting. They have
+a great pest, the langousta or grasshopper, and they are obliged,
+when these insects fly over a section of the country, to scare them
+away by any means in their power, which is usually by running about
+through the rice fields waving a red rag.
+
+As I have said before they gather these pests and eat them. I have
+seen bushels of fried langousta for sale in the markets. When they
+gather the rice harvest, it is carried to some nearby store room,
+usually in the lower part of the house in which they live. Then comes
+the threshing, which is done with old-fashioned mills, by pounding with
+a wooden mallet, or by rubbing between two large pieces of wood. Then
+they winnow it, holding it up by the peck or half bushel to let the
+wind blow the hulls off, and dry it by placing it on mats of woven
+bamboo. I saw tons of rice prepared in this way by the side of the
+road near where I lived. This being their staple, the food for man
+and beast, one can form some idea of the vast quantities that are
+needed. There was a famine while I was there and the U. S. government
+was obliged to supply the natives with rice for seed and food.
+
+There is no grass grown except a sort of swamp grass. The rice cut
+when it is green is used in the place of grass. It is never dried,
+as it grows the year round. One can look out any day and see rows
+of small bundles of this rice paddy laid by the road side for sale
+or carried by the natives on bamboo poles, a bundle before and one
+behind to balance. It was astonishing to see these small men and
+boys struggling under the weight of their "loads of hay." None of the
+American horses cared for it; their hay and grain had to be stacked
+up along the wharf and guarded. It would be of little use, however,
+to the natives as they know nothing about the use of our products.
+
+If there was any wheat grown in the islands, we never heard of it,
+and judging from the way in which flour was sold in their markets
+at ten cents for a small cornucopia that would hold about a gill,
+it was probably brought from either Australia or America.
+
+They have a camote, something like a sweet potato. Although
+it is watery and stringy it does very well and is called a good
+vegetable. They raise inferior tomatoes and very inferior garlic. It
+was a matter of great curiosity to the natives to see an American
+plow that was placed on exhibition at the British store. I am sure
+when they can take some of our good agricultural implements and turn
+the rich soil over and work it, even in a poor way, the results will
+be beyond anything we could produce here in the United States.
+
+Their cane sugar is of fine quality, almost equal to our maple
+sugar. They plant the seed in a careless way and tend it in the most
+slovenly manner imaginable, and yet, they get immense crops. One man,
+who put in a crop near where some soldiers were encamped in order to
+have their protection, told us that he sold the product from this
+small stretch of ground of not more than five or six acres for ten
+thousand dollars.
+
+The natives so disliked to work that nearly every one who employed
+men kept for them a gaming table and the inevitable fighting cocks;
+as long as they can earn a little money to gamble that is all they
+care for; houses, lands, and families are not considered. Nearly all
+the sugar mills had been burned in our neighborhood, but I know from
+the way they do everything else that they must have used the very
+crudest kind of boiling apparatus. The sugar seemed reasonably clean
+to look at, but when boiled the sediment was anything but clean. With
+our evaporating machines and with care to get the most out of the
+crop, the profit will be enormous. Often we would buy the cane in the
+markets, peel off the outside and chew the pith to get the sweet juice.
+
+They raise vast quantities of cocoa, as indifferently cared for as
+everything else, also a small flat bean, but it has a bitter taste.
+
+The largest crop of all is the hemp crop which grows, seemingly,
+without any cultivation. This hemp when growing looks something
+like the banana tree. They cut it down and divide it into lengths as
+long as possible and then prepare the wood or fiber by shaving it on
+iron teeth.
+
+They are expert in this industry, in making it fine and in tying it,
+often times, in lengths of not more than two or three inches. They
+give a very dextrous turn of the hand and the finest of these threads
+are used in some of the fabrics which they weave. I often wondered
+how they could prepare these delicate, strong, linen-like threads
+that are as fine as gossamer.
+
+A man who had cotton mills in Massachusetts visited places where the
+hemp is prepared and the looms where it is woven. He said he had never
+known anything so wonderful as the deft manner in which these people
+worked out the little skeins from an intricate mass of tangled webs.
+
+One of the curiosities of the world's fair at St. Louis will be this
+tying and weaving of hemp. Then a still greater curiosity will be the
+making of pine-apple fiber. This manufacture has been sadly neglected
+and crippled by the war and its devastations. They have learned to
+mix in other fibers because of the scarcity of the pine-apple. I
+did not see this prepared at all; only secured with difficulty some
+of the good cloth. It is considered by the natives their very best
+and finest fabric. They spend much time on its embroidery and their
+exquisite work astonishes the finest lace makers.
+
+The field corn which I saw was of such an inferior grade that it
+never occurred to me to try it; indeed, they do not bring it to market
+until it is out of the milk.
+
+On my return home I planted a few kernels as an experiment. There never
+was a more insignificant looking stalk of corn in our garden. With
+misgivings we made trial of the scrubby looking ears. To our surprise
+it was the best we ever had on our table. It seemed too good to be
+true. I gave several messes to my friends and this year am hoping to
+give pleasure to many others. I denied myself the delicious product
+that many might have seed for this spring.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+MINERALS.
+
+CHAPTER FIFTEEN.
+
+
+Gold is found in every stream of the islands. In small bottles I
+saw many little nuggets which the natives had picked up. Whether it
+would pay to use good machinery to extract he gold I cannot tell;
+but certain it is that they use a great deal of gold in the curiously
+wrought articles of jewelry of which they are all passionately fond.
+
+A man who was greatly interested in the mines of Klondike said that
+there were better chances of getting gold in the Philippines and
+that he had given up all his northern claims and was now using his
+energies to secure leases in the new territory. Other minerals, too,
+he said, are abundant and valuable.
+
+I had a small brass dagger which I used to carry for defense and, upon
+showing it to some of my friends, since my return, I was asked if I
+saw this dagger made, because if I knew the secret of its annealing
+it would be worth a fortune to me.
+
+I had missed a golden chance for I had often visited a rude foundry
+where they made bolos and other articles, but it did not occur to me
+that there could be anything of value to expert workmen at home in
+these crude hand processes.
+
+The soldiers that accompanied me, as well as I myself, went into
+convulsions of laughter over the shape of their bellows and the
+working of their forge. Everything they do seemed to us to be done in
+the most awkward manner; it is done backward if possible. The first
+time I saw a carriage hitched before the animal I wondered how they
+could ever manage it.
+
+Bolos are of all sizes and shapes and are made of steel or iron to
+suit the fancy of the person. Some are of the size and pattern of an
+old-fashioned corn cutter, handles of carved wood or carabao horn;
+sometimes made with a fork-like tip and waved with saw teeth edge. It
+is an indispensable tool in war and peace. There were none so poor as
+not to have a bolo. They made cannon, too, and guns patterned after
+our American ones. And sometimes cannon were made out of bamboo,
+bound around with bands of iron. These were formidable and could
+shoot with as much noise as a brass one, if not with as much accuracy.
+
+They must get a great deal of silver, as they have so many silver
+articles; they insert bits of silver in the handles of bolos. These
+bolos are used for everything. One day I found that the little tin
+oven which I brought from home was all worn out on the inside. I was
+in despair for there was no way of getting it repaired, My native
+cook watched me as I looked at it sorrowfully. Without saying a word
+he went to work and with only a bolo took my old tin coal oil can
+and constructed a lining with the metal cleats to hold the shelves
+up. The only thing he had in the way of a tool to work with was his
+bolo, about two feet long. When I hired him I noticed that he had
+great long finger nails; I told him that he would have to cut them
+off. He said, "Why I don't too. I wouldn't have anything to scratch
+myself with." But, upon my insisting, he took his huge bolo, placed his
+fingers on a block of wood, and severed his useful finger nails. They
+use these bolos for cutting grass, cutting meat,--they use them for
+haggling our soldiers, as we learned to our grief and wrath.
+
+There are vast quantities of coal, but the mines so far have been but
+little developed. The coal is so full of sulphur that its quality
+is spoiled. There are possibilities of finding it in good paying
+quantities on several of the islands. It makes a quick blaze and
+soon burns out. The natives sell it in tiny chunks, by the handful,
+or in little woven baskets that hold just about a quart.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ANIMALS.
+
+CHAPTER SIXTEEN.
+
+
+The animal that is most essential in every way is the carabao or
+water buffalo. They are expensive, a good one costing two or three
+hundred dollars. Their number has been very much diminished by the
+rinder-pest. The precious carabao is carefully guarded; at night it
+is kept in the lower part of the house or in a little pond close by.
+
+The picture shown opposite is a good representation of the better
+class of fairly well-to-do Filipino people; they are rich if they
+can afford as many carabao as stand here. The second picture shows
+the way they are driven. Their skins are used for everything that
+good strong leather can be used for. Their meat is good for food; but
+heaven help anybody who is obliged to eat it, and when it is prepared,
+as it often is, by drying the steaks in the sun, then the toughness
+exceeds that of the tanned hide. A sausage mill could not chew dried
+carabao. The milk is watery and poor, but the natives like it very
+much. The horns are used for handles for bolos, the hoofs for glue,
+and the bones are turned into carved articles of many kinds. The
+little calves that go wandering about by the sides of their mothers
+are so curious and so top heavy, and yet they are strong even when
+small. Carabao sometimes go crazy, and when they do, they tread down
+everything in their way. Notwithstanding their ungainly bulk they can
+run as well as a good horse, and can endure long journeys quite as
+well. They are urged to greater speed by the driver taking the tail
+and giving it a twist or kicking them in the flank.
+
+I used to spend most of my time threatening my driver that he would
+have to go to a calaboose if he did not stop abusing the animal. The
+horses are only caricatures. They are so small, so poorly kept,
+and so badly driven that one burns with indignation at the sight of
+them. There is no bit and the bridle is always bad. The nose piece
+is fitted tight and has on the under side a bit of horny fish skin,
+its spikes turned towards the flesh. These are jerked into the flesh
+of the poor horse until, in its frenzy, it dashes madly from one side
+of the road to the other.
+
+Cows are of little use. They look fair but they give little milk. Goats
+are next in importance, and are delightful to watch. The kids, in
+pairs and triplets, are such pretty little creatures, so perfectly
+formed, that I could scarcely resist the desire to bring a few home.
+
+The dogs are the worst looking creatures imaginable. They are so
+maimed that they are pests rather than pets; but there are thousands
+of them. There was one exception, a dog that was brought to me one day
+from a burning house, the like of which I had never seen before. It was
+called an Andalusian poodle. It proved to be not only the handsomest
+but the best little dog I ever had. Being a lover of dogs, I regretted
+very much to give him up upon my return.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+AMUSEMENTS AND STREET PARADES.
+
+CHAPTER SEVENTEEN.
+
+
+As a drowning man catches at a straw, so was I eager for anything
+that would give even slight relief from consuming anxieties and
+pressing hardships. The natives responded quickly to the slightest
+encouragement; small change drew groups of two to fifty to give me
+"special performances." There were blind fiddlers who would play
+snatches of operas picked up "by ear" on the rudest kind of a fiddle
+made out of hollow bamboo with only one string; it was astonishing
+how much music they could draw from the rude instrument. The bow was a
+piece of bent bamboo with shredded abaka for the bow-strings. Flutes
+were made of bamboo stalks; drums out of carabao hide stretched over
+a cylindrical piece of bamboo. Some of these strolling bands came many
+miles to my door, and while none of them ever produced correct music,
+still they were a great diversion.
+
+There were strolling players, too. The first performance was
+the most interesting that I have ever seen. The players arranged
+themselves within a square roughly drawn in the middle of the road;
+then to the strains of a bamboo fiddle, bamboo flute, bamboo drum,
+the melodrama was begun. The hero pranced into the open square to the
+tune of a minor dirge, not knowing a single sentence of his part; the
+prompter, kneeling down before a flaring candle, told him what to say;
+he repeated in parrot-like fashion, and then pranced off the square
+to slow dirge-like music. Now the heroine minced in from the opposite
+corner to slow music with her satin train sweeping in the dust; though
+carefully raised when she crossed the sacred precincts of the square,
+and in a sauntering way, with one arm akimbo and the other holding
+the fan up in the air, she took the opposite corner and the prompter
+told her what to say. In the meantime the candle blew out; it was
+relighted; the prompter found his place and signaled to the hero to
+come on. From the opposite side again, with a bow and hand on heart,
+the lover repeated after the prompter his addresses to the waiting
+maiden. She pretended to be surprised and shocked at his addresses,
+fainted away and was carried off the stage by two women attendants;
+the lover with folded arms looked calmly at the sad havoc he had
+wrought. Now a rival suitor sprang into the ring and with a huge
+bolo attacked number one and killed him. The heroine was now able to
+return. She did not fall into the arms of number two. She only listened
+placidly to the demand of how much she would pay to secure so splendid
+a man as the one that could bolo his rival. The parents finally entered
+and settled the difficulty. The play closed with the prospect of a
+happy union. The company dispersed, the women and girls walking on
+one side of the road with the torches in their hands, and the men on
+the other, in two solemn files. There was no chattering or laughing;
+yet they all felt that they had had a most delightful performance.
+
+Two or three concerts given at a neighboring town were very
+creditable, but only the better class attended; nine-tenths of the
+people resort to these crude, wayside performances. They look on with
+seeming indifference; there is never a sign of approval, much less
+an outburst of applause. They seem to have no place in their souls
+for the ludicrous, the comic, or the joyous. They were shocked by my
+smiles and peals of laughter. They have a strange preference for the
+minor key in music, for the dirge. No wonder when our bands would play
+lively music that they were quite ready to take up the catchy airs,
+but they would add a mournful cadence to the most stirring of our
+American airs. After awhile I found that the music oftenest rendered
+by the cathedral organ was the Aguinaldo March. I took the liberty to
+inform the commanding officer and that tune was stopped. After the
+surrender, to my great surprise and joy, the same organ rolled out
+"America"; it did thrill me, even if it was played on a Filipino
+instrument and by a Filipino.
+
+Little boys often came with tiny birds which they had trained to do
+little tricks. One had snakes which he would twist around his bare
+body. And never was there a day without a cock fight. Sometimes the
+birds were held in check by strings attached to them, but it was a
+common occurrence to see groups of natives watching their birds fight
+to the finish at any time of day, Sundays not excepted. And they will
+all bet on the issue if it takes the last cent they have. They do not
+seem to enjoy it in a hilarious manner at all. It is serious business,
+without comment or jovial look or act. No one is so busy that he can
+not stop for a cock fight.
+
+There are many kinds of monkeys on the islands. It is common to
+domesticate them, to train them to do their master's bidding; they
+become a part of the family, half plaything, half servant. Parrots,
+too, are adopted into the household and learn to speak its dialect;
+they are almost uncanny in their chatter and they, too, do all kinds
+of tricks at the bidding.
+
+I was daily importuned to buy monkeys, parrots, cocks, or song birds. I
+took a tiny bird that was never known to so much as chirp, but he grew
+fond of me, would perch upon my shoulder or would turn his little
+head right or left as if to ask if I were pleased with his silent
+attentions. The last morning of my stay in Jaro I went to the window
+and set him free but he immediately came back and clung to my hand. I
+took him to Iloilo and left him with the nurses; he lived only a day.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FESTIVALS OF THE CHURCH.
+
+CHAPTER EIGHTEEN.
+
+
+According to the Spanish calendar in my possession, there is a festival
+for every day in the year. There are services every morning at seven,
+every evening at five; often there are special grand festivals. The
+Jaro church has a wax figure of the Savior and this figure is dressed
+for various festivals in various ways; sometimes in evening dress,
+with white shirt, diamond stud, rings on the fingers, patent leather
+shoes, and a derby hat. This figure was placed on a large platform
+and either carried on the shoulders of men or put on a wagon and drawn
+by men. Once I saw the cart pushed along by a bull at the rear. This
+procession would form at the Cathedral door, march around the square
+and then usually go three or four blocks down toward the house where
+the priest lived, and by that time it would be very nearly dark and
+they would light their candles and return and go about the square
+again before going into the Cathedral.
+
+Sometimes the figure was dressed in royal robes with long purple
+mantle and gilded crown upon the head; on Good Friday it lay in a
+white shroud as if in death; on Easter day it was arrayed in flowing
+white robes and was brought from the cemetery into town and borne at
+the head of a great parade. Those who could afford to do so would set
+up a special shrine in front of their homes, adorned with flowers and
+household images. The priest would, as a special favor, have special
+services before these shrines, and the more money spent on these
+shrines and the more paid to the priest the more distinguished the
+citizen. For days before the natives were busy making long candles
+out of carabao tallow. Some of these candles, huge and crude, would
+weigh four or five pounds. None of the so-called common people or
+the poor class would take part in any of these wonderful parades
+unless they were able to wear good clothes and have long trains to
+their dresses. I never saw any one in these processions who was at
+all poor; the poor simply stand by the roadside and look on. I asked
+my Filipino woman why she did not join; she said she would just as
+soon as she could get a dress with a train. It was not many weeks
+before she was in the procession, having earned the train by laundry
+work for the officers and soldiers. For the men, it was their joy to
+be able to purchase a derby hat. I never knew there could be so many
+kinds of derbies as I saw on the heads of these natives. It was said
+that a ship-load of them was brought over once, and they so charmed
+the male population that from that time on they all aspired to own
+a derby, no matter how ancient its appearance or of what color it
+might be. And no matter if they did not have a shirt to their back,
+if they had on a good stiff derby hat, they were dressed for any
+occasion and to appear before anybody.
+
+The priests wear, first, a long, plain white robe, over this a black
+cassock, then a white cotta; and the more richly it is embroidered the
+better they like it. There was with this white cotta a white petticoat
+plain at the top and ruffled at the bottom. I did not know the names
+of the outer vestments but they were all embroidered. I offered to buy
+one of the heavily embroidered vestments from a priest but he refused,
+saying that it was very hard to get that kind of cloth embroidered so
+beautifully. He gave me one of the Filipino skirts; it was badly worn,
+but I kept it as a curiosity. Not knowing very much about the Roman
+church, there were a great many things done every day that I could not
+understand; for instance, when a priest went out in a closed carriage
+attended by two or three boys he would come from the church door with
+one of the boys in front of him ringing a bell vigorously. He would
+ring this bell just as hard as he could until the priest would get
+inside with his attendants and then they would drive away. When they
+returned they would go through this same performance of ringing this
+bell until they got inside of the church. I saw this many times and
+once asked a Roman Catholic soldier what it meant; he said he did
+not know.
+
+It may be that these people need to be terrorized by the priests;
+certain it is that, when a priest walks through the village or when
+any of the people see him, they kneel and kiss his hand, if he is so
+gracious as to honor them with the privilege. The people bow down
+before him and reverence him though he may at any moment lift his
+cane and give them a good whack over the head or shoulders. I never
+saw this done, but several of our men told me they had seen it; and
+one captain told me that he saw the priest take a huge bamboo pole
+and knock a man down because he failed to get into the procession in
+double-quick time. They do literally rule these people with the rod.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+OSTEOPATHY.
+
+CHAPTER NINETEEN.
+
+
+In 1895, for the benefit of one dearer to me than life, I went to
+Kirksville, Mo., and from Dr. A. T. Still learned something of the
+principles and practice of his great art. The subject grew in interest;
+I became a regular student of the American School of Osteopathy, and,
+in time, completed the course and took the decree. In the islands
+it was a great pleasure to me to help our sick soldiers; scores of
+them, with touching gratitude, have blessed the use that I made of
+my hands upon them. Officers and men came daily for treatment. Soon
+the Filipinos came, too. Women walked many miles carrying their sick
+children; the blind and lame besought me to lay my hands upon them. It
+was noised about that I had divine power. My door was beset. I gladly
+gave relief where I could, but for the most of them help was one
+hundred years too late.
+
+I recall with special pleasure one successful case. A woman came to
+me who said she had walked forty miles to bring her sick child; for
+compensation she offered a pigeon and three eggs. I could not look
+out of my window without seeing some poor sick native squatted on the
+ground waiting to see if I could do anything for her sick child or
+herself. The natives when burning up with fever think they dare not
+wash their bodies; they will lie hopeless and passive on the ground or
+on a small bamboo mat. It is pitiable to see them so utterly destitute;
+not one single thing that would go to make up a bed or pillow, nor
+do they seem to have any mode of taking care of their sick at all.
+
+Our army hospitals were very well kept, indeed, but it was a great
+struggle to get help enough and to get the things needed for hundreds
+of sick soldiers. There were many large buildings, but as soon as the
+government attempted to purchase them, the Filipinos asked exorbitant
+prices. And then the sanitary conditions are such that it is hard to
+establish hospitals anywhere. I read with great pleasure that the
+capitol of Luzon will be on a plateau in the mountains where the
+temperature will be lower, the air better, and the water purer.
+
+I am sure that Americans can live in the Philippines; I know that
+the resources of the islands are vast, especially in agricultural
+and mineral products; that we have, indeed, acquired in our new
+possessions immeasurable riches.
+
+As soon as any Filipino wishes to become a friend and to impress you
+that he is rich and has vast possessions, the entire family, father,
+mother, and children, will call and bring quantities of fruits, fine
+clothes, carved shells, and native pearls with curiously wrought gold
+settings, and present them with great earnestness of manner and many
+words of praise. They tell you what great value they place upon your
+friendship, and that of all the people in all the world you are the
+one person that they do most ardently believe in, and finally that
+they consider you the greatest acquisition to their islands.
+
+A Filipino general and his wife came again and again to see me;
+they brought a magnificent sunburst of diamonds which they urged
+me to accept with their greatest love and affection. I declined
+positively and absolutely. They seemed very much downcast that I
+would not accept this little token of their deep affection. They
+went home, but in about two hours came back, brought the diamonds,
+and again urged and urged so strongly that I finally consented to let
+the wife pin the elegant brooch on my dress; perhaps I should find
+out the hidden meaning of this excessive devotion. As soon as the
+officer in command returned, I told him of the gift, of my refusal,
+and of their return. A written note was hastily sent to the general
+that he must come and remove the brooch at once. Fearing the wrath of
+the officer, he came immediately and I returned the diamonds. Even
+after this the family renewed their efforts. I found out afterwards
+that the general had violated his oath of allegiance; his bribe was
+to buy my influence with the commanding officer.
+
+It was evident that many of the better class of natives, in spite of
+oath and fair face, were directing and maintaining the murderous bands
+of banditti. Often letters were found that the Filipino generals
+had written to their women friends in Jaro, Iloilo and Molo, to
+sell their jewels, to sell all they could, to buy guns, ammunition,
+and food, and later other letters were captured full of the thanks
+of the Filipino army for these gifts. While the good Filipinos were
+taking the oath of allegiance with the uplifted right hand, the left
+was much busier sending supplies to the insurrectos.
+
+The hypocrisy of the upper classes was matched by their cruelty. A
+native of prominence was gracious enough upon one occasion to direct
+a party of officers on their way. He was attended by his servant who
+walked or ran the entire distance carrying a heavy load suspended
+partly from his shoulders, and partly by a strap about the forehead.
+
+The servant failed to start with the party, but in a short time he
+caught up by running swiftly. The master calmly got off his horse,
+motioned to the servant to drop his load, and proceeded to beat the man
+unmercifully with a cane made out of fish tail, a sword-like, cruel,
+barbed affair, about four feet long. The poor servant never uttered
+a cry. As soon as possible the officers interfered and stopped the
+torture. So bloody and faint was the poor victim that they gave him
+a horse to ride. The master was angry, declared he would not have
+his authority questioned and left the party.
+
+A ball was given in the town of Jaro by the officers who were there
+and in the town of Iloilo. Army, navy, ladies, and nurses from the
+hospital were invited. It was considered quite an unusual thing to
+do at this time, as the Filipino soldiers were near at hand day and
+night, approaching and firing upon the town. One of the Filipino
+women said, "I do not see how the American officers dare congregate
+at so dangerous a time." The men decorated the huge ball room with
+magnificent palms and ferns which they had gathered and put up many
+flags. The regimental band was stationed on the porch at the rear of
+the building. It was, altogether, a very fine gathering, and all went
+merry "as the marriage bell."
+
+There was a German on the dance programme that was to end in a mock
+capture. Not thinking that it might occasion alarm, at a certain
+point, some of the soldiers were instructed to fire off some cannon
+crackers; in addition the soldiers thought it would be just as well to
+fire off a few pistols. The surprise was very great. The colonel of a
+volunteer regiment nearby heard the commotion and gave orders for the
+company to turn out and find out where this fusillade was occurring,
+not supposing that it could be in private quarters. The Presidente
+of the town was greatly alarmed, as he was expecting any moment to
+be captured for serving under the U. S. government as head man of a
+town. The firing created a great commotion, people ran hither and
+thither to find out where the battle was going on; the musicians,
+who did not understand about the firing, were frightened, too; there
+was a call to arms and great commotion. But soon explanations came,
+and immediately it was on with the dance. It was a huge joke, and when
+the sentry told that a colonel and his wife were the most frightened
+of all, barricading their doors and having extra guards placed around,
+the merriment knew no bounds.
+
+It was seldom that the officers had any of these receptions or balls,
+but when they did everybody felt they must attend, and those taking
+part in the dance enjoyed themselves very much. Sometimes the officers
+would charter a small steamer and go to one of the nearby islands,
+but it was rarely they could do so, because of the skulking natives
+and their manner of signaling where these parties landed, making it
+unsafe for any but large companies to attend these excursions.
+
+It was often the duty of our officers and men to stop the cruelties
+they saw practiced upon dumb brutes. I have in mind the way pigs were
+brought to market, their forefeet across a bamboo pole and their heads
+bound so that they could not squeal, and in this uncomfortable way
+they were carried many miles. Of the many stories that were told of
+the cruelties our soldiers perpetrated upon the helpless Filipinos,
+I do not believe one word; indeed, our men were constantly assisting
+the natives in every way possible.
+
+On the 4th of July, 1900, our officers decided to tender a reception to
+the Filipino families whose hospitalities they had enjoyed. They issued
+invitations and decorated their quarters in fine shape with flags,
+bunting, palms, and pictures. It was quite the talk of the town. The
+beauty and chivalry of the island were there. For refreshments
+they served commissary supplies with ice cream and cake. The guests
+thought it a very poor banquet for such pretentious people as the
+officers were. The Filipinos always have a ten or twelve course meal
+at twelve o'clock at their dances, especially when they have festivals
+or wedding banquets. There were many of these given. I could often
+watch the throng from my window; they went at this particular kind of
+hilarity in the same listless, slow, silent manner in which they did
+everything. The popular dance is the "Rigadon." There is a great deal
+of swinging of couples and going forward and back. None of the common
+people seem to indulge in any form of a dance, so far as I could learn.
+
+We invited upon several occasions some Filipino men and women to dine
+with us, and it was interesting to hear their remarks about various
+dishes we had prepared for them. They would ask questions concerning
+the preparations. Mince pies, which we made of canned meat and canned
+apples, were a source of great wonder; they would ask where they could
+get the fruit for that kind of a pudding. I know that they made wry
+faces at some dishes, and I know that we did ourselves, for some of
+them were beyond comparison; no chef in all the world could produce
+a good thing out of such materials.
+
+The May festival was given by the children, chiefly by the little
+girls of the cathedral congregation. The leader was a woman of fine
+character and standing. She worked hard every day with these little
+tots to train them to do their parts well, which consisted of marching
+into the cathedral by twos', arranging themselves into a circle
+about the Virgin Mother and throwing flowers and bouquets, singing
+and speaking. The ludicrous part of it all was that these little
+things were supposed to be dressed like American children. The models
+had been taken from some old magazine,--huge sleeves, small waists,
+skirt to the knees, and pantlets to the top of shoes. The shoes were
+painfully tight and the little feet, unaccustomed to being held in
+such close quarters, limped and hobbled piteously. The festival was
+carried on every day for weeks. Bushels of flowers were thrown at
+the figure of the Blessed Virgin.
+
+Some of the festivals in the larger cathedrals in Manila were gorgeous
+indeed. There were floats on which were carried the different
+patron saints, all gorgeously arrayed in the most magnificent
+costumes. Evidently the churches were never meant for the common
+or poor people, so few of them were ever seen within their walls;
+but without were vast crowds of beggars, of the blind, the deformed,
+the diseased; victims of smallpox and of leprosy in every stage of
+suffering. It is said that the first thing ordered by Bishop Brent,
+who took charge of the Protestant Episcopal church in the Philippines,
+was soap.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE McKINLEY CAMPAIGN.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY.
+
+
+The excitement on the islands ran quite high during the McKinley-Bryan
+campaign. The natives conceived that if Bryan were elected they could,
+in some way, they could not explain how, not only be very greatly
+benefited personally, but the U. S. troops would be withdrawn; they
+would then be rid not only of the Spaniards but of the Americans,
+and could then have a ruler of their own choosing. I knew that
+there were small papers or bulletins published to intensify these
+sentiments. Popular favor was all for Bryan and not one person for
+McKinley, while on the other hand I do not think there was a single
+soldier who was not a McKinley man. The feeling ran high, and, while
+our papers gave us every assurance that the Republican party would
+be victorious, we were very anxious for the news. On the night of the
+6th of November we had the glorious report. It did not take long for
+the shouts to go up from every American soldier. About eleven o'clock
+P. M. all the American officers and men formed in procession with the
+band at the head; they came around to the house where I was staying and
+called out, "Come, Mrs. Conger, you must join in this jubilee." I did
+not need a second invitation. Snatching my little American flag that I
+take wherever I go, I formed in line with the boys. We marched around
+and around the park, cheering, singing patriotic songs, and hurrahing
+for McKinley. In front of one of the houses where I knew they were the
+most bitter toward the Americans, we cheered lustily. I had been there
+only a few days before to purchase a Jusi dress for Mrs. McKinley. I
+said that I would like one of their very best weaves, as it would go
+to the White House to Mrs. McKinley. With a great deal of scorn in her
+voice and manner she declared she would not make it. We continued on
+our march through and around the town until after one o'clock, when I
+returned to my room. I was about to retire when a detachment from the
+Scouts came and said, "Oh, Mrs. Conger, we want you to come over to
+the park, we are going to have a big bonfire." So I went over and we
+had another jollification, hurrahing, singing, shouting for McKinley,
+until we made ourselves hoarse. We burned up all the old debris that
+we could gather and plenty of bamboo, which makes a cracking noise,
+quite like a roll of musketry. From every window and crevice in every
+house about that park native heads were gazing at us, and never one
+cheer came from a single throat, but we gave them to understand in
+no uncertain terms where we stood. I suppose they thought it was
+only one more unheard of thing for a woman to do, to be out marching
+and singing, and I am sure they thought "Senora Blanco," the name I
+was called by the people all over the Island of Panay, had gone mad;
+and I was certainly doing unheard of things, for, as I said before,
+it is not considered at all proper for a woman to be walking or
+riding with a man. And to think that a woman of my years, and the
+only American woman in that part of the country, would, at such an
+hour, be marching with those hundreds of boys in the dead of night
+was wholly beyond their comprehension, and they had no words adequate
+to express their disgust at my outburst of enthusiasm and patriotism.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+GOVERNOR TAFT AT JARO.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-ONE.
+
+
+When Governor Taft and other members of the peace commission were
+expected at Iloilo and Jaro, there were great preparations for several
+weeks before hand. The guests came to Jaro for a morning reception at
+the home of one of the wealthy citizens. The house had been beautifully
+decorated and the refreshments were served in the large room at the
+left of the hall; the buffet luncheon consisted of every kind of cake
+and sweetmeats, champagne, wine, and beer. The Filipino guests were
+in the large front room, seated in rows, six or eight rows, perhaps
+twenty in a row, with their backs to each other or facing each other.
+
+I was the only American woman there until Mrs. Taft and other ladies
+with the peace commission arrived. Not wishing to sit solemnly in line
+gazing at these newly acquired sisters of mine, I ventured some remarks
+in Spanish about the weather and the coming guests. There was little
+response. My curiosity getting the better of me, I made bold to examine
+the gowns of these women for I had seldom seen before such handsome
+material, rich brocaded satins, cloth of gold wrought with seed pearls
+and jewels; huge strings of pearls on the neck, diamond and pearl
+rings on the fingers and very handsome ornaments in the hair; every
+head bore a huge pompadour and every face was heavily powdered; the
+perfume was stifling even with every window stretched to the fullest
+extent. Each woman carried a handsome fan and each was attended by at
+least one servant. After waiting in this rigid company manner about
+an hour and a half, the distinguished guests arrived. We were then
+entertained by some of the local artists and celebrities. There was
+vocal and instrumental music; a fine grand piano, very good violins,
+and the concert was by far the best music I had heard in the islands.
+
+At 1:30 we were all carried over in carriages to the house of the
+Presidente and thirty-five of us sat down to a very sumptuous banquet
+of about eighteen courses. The menu of soup, fish, game, birds,
+salads, was very quickly served, a waiter for each guest. The table
+was furnished with much silver and cut glass, and at each plate was
+a bouquet holder with napkin ring attached; there were after-dinner
+speeches by Governor Taft, Judge Wright, and others; then we were
+ushered into the large drawing-room where coffee and cigars were
+served. The room had been especially prepared by the labor of many days
+spent on tacking flags on the ceiling and side walls, making a very
+beautiful effect. There were huge bunches of artificial flowers. For
+the entertainment at this house, all the Filipino bands from the
+surrounding towns were massed together. Governor Taft complimented
+his hosts upon their very delightful "entretener," and said he had
+seen nothing to compare with it for elegance and enthusiastic welcome
+since he had been on the islands. At every corner of the plaza there
+were erected handsome bamboo arches and booths, and every strip of
+bunting and every flag that could be got out were waving in Jaro
+on this great day of inauguration of the Civil Commission on the
+Island of Panay. To me it seemed anything but a peaceful time as
+the scouts were then out after a very desperate band of insurrectos,
+but I have never seen anywhere more beautiful ornamentation or more
+lavish display of wealth, and yet there was lacking in it all the
+genuine ring of cordiality and enthusiasm. In Iloilo there were
+many receptions and various kinds of entertainments given. Governor
+Taft invited leading citizens out to the ship where he returned the
+compliment with refreshments, good cheer, and a salute.
+
+In writing of my life in the islands, I must mention incidents of
+serious nature and yet of common happening. Almost daily would come an
+instant call for troops to mount and ride post haste by night or day
+after some of these worse than lawless bands of Filipinos. One evening
+while we were at dinner we had as our guest a Lieutenant of one of the
+volunteer regiments. He had been ill and had spent the time of his
+convalescence in acquiring some of the manifold Filipino dialects,
+about sixty in all, it is said. He was detailed by the commanding
+officer to visit some of the inland villages and inspect the schools
+and inquire generally after the condition of the people. He told us
+that evening that he intended to make quite an extensive tour around
+the island of Panay in the interest of the schools. "You are going to
+take a strong guard, of course?" we asked. "Anyone going on such a
+peaceful mission as mine would not need even an orderly, but I will
+take an orderly to assist in carrying the books and pamphlets." The
+very next evening while we were at dinner, word was brought that this
+splendid young man had been killed not three miles from where we were
+sitting. In a few minutes men mounted and were off to the scene of
+the murder. In a nearby hut the young officer lay dead. He, who had so
+trustingly confided in these "peaceful people," had fallen the victim
+of his noble impulses. Every article of any value had been taken from
+his body except a little watch that he carried in a small leather case
+on his wrist; he had bought it that very day to send to his wife. No
+trace of the "insurrectos," the murderers, was ever found. A native
+woman said the officer was riding peacefully along with his orderly
+at his side when suddenly they were stopped by a volley of balls. The
+Lieutenant turned, as did also the orderly; their horses took fright,
+one rider was thrown, probably already dead, the other escaped. The
+funeral rites of our noble soldier were conducted with military honors;
+the body was sent home to his bereaved wife and family.
+
+One day a missionary was on his way from town to town; he had,
+unfortunately, an orderly with him. He was stopped and asked his
+business; he replied that he was a missionary. "Why carry a gun?" was
+the scornful retort. He was stripped of everything of value but was
+allowed to return. The soldier did not fare so well; he was killed
+before the rescuing party could reach him. A detachment was sent out
+one day to procure some young beef for sale in a nearby village. They
+were received with open arms by the Presidente of the village and the
+Padre and were most sumptuously entertained. It was kindly explained
+that they had no young cattle for sale but that about a mile further
+on there were some very fine young calves that could be had at five
+dollars in gold.
+
+Not thinking of any treachery, the soldiers mounted and rode about
+a mile beyond the village into a ravine which, according to the
+instructions, led to the cattle-field beyond. While crossing the stream
+in the bottom of the ravine, the men were startled by the whiz of
+bullets and, glancing up, found the steep banks lined with insurrectos
+who had opened fire without a moment's warning. Our men entrapped,
+surrounded, were ordered to surrender. For answer they put spurs to
+their horses and started back under a heavy fire. Unfortunately two of
+the fine horses were shot; their riders were obliged to run afoot the
+rest of the way up the bank and were picked up by their comrades. One
+of the men shouted, "Sergeant, don't you hear they are calling for
+us to surrender? Say are you going to?" With an oath, "No, not by
+a d---d sight. Run and fight." Which they did and actually got away
+from hundreds of natives and arrived in Jaro breathless and weary, the
+horses covered with foam. Not a man had been killed or wounded. Two
+horses were killed outright, but none were maimed. Soon the troop
+was in the saddle and out after those treacherous miscreants. Many
+natives were arrested and brought to town and then it was found that
+this loyal (?) Presidente, whom the commanding general had had the
+utmost confidence in was at the head of a number of Filipino companies
+which scoured the country to capture small parties of our soldiers. As
+the investigations were pressed it came out that the bodies of their
+victims had been torn to pieces and buried in quicklime that there
+might be no traces left of their treachery. It was several weeks
+before the full facts were obtained and before the mutilated remains
+of our soldiers were found and brought back and buried.
+
+The volunteer regiments suffered most from these brutal cowards,
+directed and urged on by the "very best men" in civil and "sacred"
+office. These are facts from the lips of U. S. officers, men who do
+not lie. Very often the troops were called out to capture these bloody
+bands, but it was hard to locate them or bring them to a stand. The
+natives knew so many circuitous ways of running to cover and they
+had so many friends to aid them that it was almost impossible to
+follow them. Whenever they were captured they were so surprised,
+so humiliated, so innocent, meek and subdued, that it would never
+occur to an honest man that they could know how to handle a bolo
+or a gun. But experience taught that the most guileless in looks
+were the worst desperadoes of all. My first sight of a squad of
+these captives is a thing not to be forgotten. They were a scrubby
+lot of hardly human things, stunted, gnarled pigmies, with no hats
+or shoes, and scarcely a rag of clothing. Their cruel knives, the
+deadly bolos, were the only things they could be stripped of. I looked
+down upon them from my window in astonishment. "It is not possible,"
+I exclaimed, "that these miserable creatures are samples of what is
+called the Filipino army." "Yes," an officer replied, "these are the
+fellows that never fight; that only stab in the back and mutilate
+the dying and dead." My eyes turned to the guard, our own soldiers,
+fine, manly fellows, who fairly represented the personnel of our own
+splendid army. It made me indignant that one of them should suffer
+at the hands of such vermin or rather at the hands of the religious
+manipulators who stood in safety behind their ignorant degraded slaves.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+SHIPWRECK.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-TWO.
+
+
+The climate seemed beyond physical endurance, although the thermometer
+ranged no higher than from ninety to one hundred ten, but the heat was
+continuous night and day; exhaustion without relief. The only time that
+one could get a breath was about five o'clock in the morning; in the
+middle of the day the sun's rays are white-hot needles,--this is the
+only way that I can express it; and even if one carries an umbrella,
+the heat pierces directly through. From the first of November to
+the middle of December, there is usually about six or seven hours
+a day of comparative comfort; but the season is too short to brace
+the enervated body. One day the thermometer fell to seventy-eight;
+we Americans shivered and craved a fire, so much did we feel the
+change of temperature.
+
+I finally learned from the natives that it is not best after bathing,
+to rub the body with a towel; and indeed, following them more closely,
+that it is wise to feed with cocoanut oil the famished pores of the
+skin which has been weakened by excessive exudation. The rainy season
+begins in April, usually, and gives some relief from the excessive
+heat; and such rains, never in my life had I known before what it
+was to have rain come down by the barrelful! The two-story house in
+which we were quartered was quite solidly built, and the boards of
+the second story were over-lapped to keep out the rain; and yet,
+I have often had to get up on the bed or table while the water
+poured in at innumerable unsuspected cracks and swept the floor
+like a torrent. It was hard to tell which frightened one the most,
+the terrible rain-storms or the awful earthquakes. In the house
+there was a magnificent glass chandelier. The first time we had a
+severe earthquake that chandelier swayed back and forth in such a
+wild way that it seemed as if it must fall and crush every prism,
+tiny light, and bell. I felt sure whenever a quake began that I
+should not live through it. The flying fragments across the room,
+the creaking hard-wood doors, the nauseating feeling that everything
+under foot was falling away,--it was a frightful experience then,
+it is a sickening memory now. One never gets used to these shocks no
+matter how many occur; the more, the worse. They are more frequent
+in the night than in the day. It was not quite so bad if the wild
+start from uneasy slumber was followed by a cheery voice calling,
+"Hello there, are you alive, has anything hurt you, has anything
+struck?" Even the rats are terrified, and the natives, almost to a
+soul, leave their houses, congregate in the middle of the street,
+and begin to pray. Sometimes a fierce wind from the north brings sad
+havoc to the hastily built bamboo houses; a whole street of these
+slightly constructed dwellings is toppled over or lies aslant, or is
+swept away. At first we used to smile at the storm signal displayed at
+Iloilo. If the sky was clear and still, we would start out confidently
+on some trip, to the next town perhaps; before we had gone more than
+a half mile we would be drenched through and through and no cloud,
+not even as big as a man's hand was to be seen; at other times dense
+clouds, the blackest clouds, would shut down close upon us,--such are
+the strange variations. No sort of sailing craft ever leaves the port
+when the signals are up for one of these hurricane storms; if caught
+out in them they put instantly into the nearest port. Shipwrecks are
+frequent, partly on account of these sudden storms, but chiefly on
+account of the shifting sands of the course.
+
+From Manila to Iloilo on a boat that had been purchased for the use
+of the government, I was, on one occasion, the only passenger on
+board. The captain had never been over this course before, but he was
+confident of getting through with the help of a Spanish chart. About
+two o'clock in the morning I sprang to my feet alarmed by the harsh
+grinding of the boat's keel, the scurrying of many feet, the shouting
+of quick orders. The shock of the boat blew out all lamps; in the
+darkness I opened the door of my cabin and ran to find the captain,
+guided by his voice. I learned that we were aground. I asked him if
+I could help. "Yes, if you can carry messages to the engineer and
+translate them into Spanish." I ran to and fro, stumbling up or down,
+forgetting every time I passed that a certain part of the ship had a
+raised ledge. The effort was to prop the boat with spars that it might
+not tip as it crunched and settled down upon the coral reefs. We could
+hardly wait until daylight to measure the predicament. When the light
+grew clear so that I saw the illuminated waters, there was a scene of
+new and wonderful beauty,--a garden of the sea, a coral grove. Far as
+the eye could reach there was every conceivable color, shape, and kind
+of coral,--pink, green, yellow, and white. It all looked so safe and
+soft, as if one might crush it in the hands; and yet these huge cakes
+of coral were like adamant, except the delicate fern-like spikes that
+were so viciously piercing the bottom of our boat. I saw all kinds of
+sea shells, the lovely nautilus spreading its sails on the surface,
+and the huge devil-fish sprawling at the bottom of the shallow pools,
+with its many tentacles thrown out on every side.
+
+With innumerable ants, swarms of mosquitoes, lizards everywhere,
+rats by the million, mice, myriads of langoustas or grass-hoppers,
+long cockroaches, squeaking bugs, monkeys that stole everything they
+could lay their hands on, the fear of the deadly bolo, the dread
+each night of waking up amid flame and smoke, earthquakes, tornadoes,
+dreadful thunders and lightnings, torrents of water, life sometimes
+seemed hard; each new day was but a repetition of yesterday, and I
+used constantly to rely upon the assured promises--Psalms XCI:
+
+"He that dwelleth in the secret place of the most High shall abide
+under the shadow of the Almighty.
+
+"I will say of the Lord, he is my refuge and my fortress: my God:
+in him will I trust.
+
+"Surely he shall deliver thee from the snare of the fowler, and from
+the noisome pestilence.
+
+"He shall cover thee with his feathers, and under his wings shalt
+thou trust; his truth shall be thy shield and buckler.
+
+"Thou shalt not be afraid for the terror by night; nor for the arrow
+that flieth by day;
+
+"Nor for the pestilence that walketh in darkness; nor for the
+destruction that wasteth at noonday.
+
+"A thousand shall fall at thy side, and ten thousand at thy right hand;
+but it shall not come nigh thee.
+
+"Only with thine eyes shalt thou behold and see the reward of the
+wicked.
+
+"Because thou hast made the Lord, which is my refuge, even the most
+High, thy habitation;
+
+"There shall no evil befall thee, neither shall any plague come nigh
+thy dwelling.
+
+"For he shall give his angels charge over thee, to keep thee in all
+thy ways.
+
+"They shall bear thee up in their hands, lest thou dash thy foot
+against a stone.
+
+"Thou shalt tread upon the lion and the dragon shalt thou trample
+under feet.
+
+"Because he hath set his love upon thee, therefore will I deliver him:
+I will set him on high, because he hath known my name.
+
+"He shall call upon me, and I will answer him: I will be with him in
+trouble; I will deliver him, and honour him.
+
+"With long life will I satisfy him, and show him my salvation."
+
+Looking down from my window every day into the faces of six or more
+dead bodies that were brought to the cathedral, I knew that "The
+pestilence was walking in the darkness."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FILIPINO DOMESTIC LIFE.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-THREE.
+
+
+The houses are made of bamboo; some of them are pretty, quite artistic;
+the plain ones cost about seventy-five cents each; no furniture of
+any kind is needed. The native food is rice, or, as it is called in
+the vernacular, "Sow-sow." It is cooked in an earthen pot set upon
+stones with a few lighted twigs thrust under it for fire. When it is
+eaten with nature's forks--the fingers--with a relish of raw fish,
+it is the chief article of diet.
+
+House-cleaning is one thing that I never saw in practice or evidence. I
+took a supply of lye with me and it was a huge joke to see the natives
+use it in cleaning the floors.
+
+The windows are made of oyster shells which are thin and flat;
+these cut in three-inch squares make a window peculiarly adapted to
+withstand the heavy storms and earthquakes; it transmits a pleasant
+opalescent light.
+
+Coffee is raised, but not widely used by the natives; they prefer
+chocolate.
+
+After many unsuccessful attempts, I gave up trying to have my dishes
+washed in my way; I soon discovered that the servants used the tea
+towels on their bodies. This convinced me, and I let them wash mine
+as they did their own, by pouring water on each dish separately,
+rinsing and setting to dry on the porch in the sun, the only place
+where the vermin would not crawl over them.
+
+The irons used for pressing clothes are like a smooth, round-bottomed
+skillet, the inside is filled with lighted sticks and embers. The
+operator, who sits on the floor, passes this smoking mass over the
+thing to be pressed. The article, when finished, looks as if it had
+been sat upon.
+
+One Palm Sunday I visited five different churches in all of which
+were palms in profusion, woven into almost innumerable forms; fishes,
+birds in and out of cages, trees, fruits, flowers, crosses, crowns,
+sceptres, mitres, and saints' emblems. The cathedral at Arevalo looked
+like a huge garden, but, in one second after it had been discovered
+that a white woman and an American officer were present, the entire
+congregation, rising, turned to look at us; it seemed as if a whirlwind
+were sweeping the palms, so nervous were the hands that held them.
+
+After the service, the crowd came out and vanished immediately,
+fear of an attack having overcome their curiosity.
+
+Nearly all the little children are naked. One day I saw a little
+fellow about three years old who was suffering severely with the
+smallpox. He was smoking a huge cigar of the kind the natives make by
+rolling the natural tobacco leaf and tying it with a bit of bamboo
+fibre. He did look ridiculous. A native teacher told me that they
+all begin to smoke when about two years old; poor, little, stunted,
+starved things, fed on half cooked rice and raw fish.
+
+Drunkenness is comparatively rare among the natives; the intoxicating
+beverage is the "Tuba," which is made about as follows: The flowers
+of the cocoanut are cut while still in bud and the sap, or "Beno,"
+caught in a tube of bamboo; the liquor is gathered daily as we gather
+maple sap and fermented by the addition of a piece of wood, which
+also imparts a slight color. The product of this fermentation is an
+insidious stimulant. I never tasted it, but one poor soldier told
+me his sad experience and that sufficed. After a particularly hard
+march, his company came to a halt in a village; he asked for water,
+but could get only this innocent looking "Beno;" he took one tiny
+glass; it tasted like cologne water; his thirst not being quenched,
+he took a second and a third glass, after which he proceeded to make
+a howling mob of himself. This, since it happened in the face of the
+enemy, with momentary expectation of attack, was a serious offence
+enough, but coupled with the fact that he was "on guard" at the time,
+entailed punishments, the rigor of which, can be guessed only by
+those familiar with army discipline.
+
+Once a party of officers and men were going from one island to another,
+carrying money and food for the soldiers. It was found, after starting,
+that they were not so heavily guarded as they should be, in view of
+the fact that they would be exposed to attack when in the narrow
+channels between the islands. At one point where they were hemmed
+in, not only by the islands, but by a number of sailing crafts, the
+Captain, a Filipino, very seriously asked the Paymaster if he had
+plenty of fire arms; his reply was, "Oh, muchee fusile," meaning,
+"Oh, very much fire arms." To add to the horror of the situation
+they were becalmed. The Captain became very much alarmed and the
+soldiers more so. Strange to relate, there came a gale of wind that
+not only blew them out into a wider channel beyond the reach of their
+insurrecto friends, but put them well on their way. This was told me
+as being almost like a miracle. No one can ever realize until they
+have been caught in one of these terrific gales what their severity
+is. I remember one blast that tore my hair down and swept away every
+article of loose clothing, also some things that I had just purchased;
+I never saw them again. It would not occur to the natives to return
+anything that they found, even if they knew that they never could use
+it; they all professed friendship to my face, and were constantly
+begging for any little article that I might have, but they never
+returned anything they saw me drop or that had been blown away.
+
+We had, at one time, a peace society formed, there was an attendance
+of all the women of Jaro, some from Iloilo, and the President was
+chosen from Molo. I took pleasure in joining this society for the
+maintenance of peace and fraternal feeling with the Filipinos.
+
+One day I thought it my duty to call upon the President of the
+new peace commission. She lived in the town of Molo. I invited a
+native woman to accompany me, and secured a guard of soldiers and an
+interpreter. Such a commotion as the visit created. The interpreter
+explained that I had called to pay my respects, as I was the only
+American woman who had joined the peace society. The President
+was pale with fright at my coming, though I had with me a woman
+whom she knew very well. After she had recovered from the shock,
+we had a very agreeable time. She called in some of her family; one
+daughter played well on the piano, a large grand, and another played
+upon the violin. In the meantime refreshments were served in lavish
+profusion. They offered me very handsome cloths and embroideries,
+which I declined with thanks. It is a common custom to make presents.
+
+I had agreed with this Filipino friend to exchange views on points of
+etiquette and social manners. She told me that I had committed quite
+a breach of propriety in allowing the interpreter, who was a soldier,
+to ride on the front seat of the carriage; that it would become known
+everywhere that she and I actually had a man ride with us. It is not
+customary for even husbands and wives to drive together. My criticism
+was, "We do not like the manner of your ladies expectorating. In
+America we consider it a very filthy and offensive habit." She was
+quite surprised that we were so very particular and asked me if we
+chewed the spittle.
+
+A large cathedral was situated just across the street, a circumstance
+that enabled me to witness many ceremonies of the Roman church, of
+whose existence I had no previous knowledge; daily services were held,
+and all the Saints' days were observed. On festivals of especial
+importance there were very gorgeous processions. The principal
+features were the bands of music, the choir, acolytes, priests, and
+rich people,--the poor have no place--all arrayed in purple and fine
+linen; gold, silver, pearls, and rare jewels sparkled in the sun by
+day, or, at night, in the light of the candles and torches carried
+by thousands of men, women and children.
+
+It was a trying experience to be awakened from sound sleep by the
+firing of guns. It was necessary to be always armed and ready to
+receive the "peaceful people." (We read daily in the American papers
+that all danger was over.)
+
+A characteristic feature of each town is a plaza at its center, and
+here the people have shrines or places of worship at the corners,
+the wealthier people, only, having them in their homes.
+
+Smallpox is a disease of such common occurrence that the natives
+have no dread of it; the mortality from this one cause alone is
+appalling. This brings to mind the funeral ceremony, which, since the
+natives are all Catholics, is always performed by the padre or priest.
+
+In red, pink, or otherwise gayly decorated coffin, the corpse,
+which is often exposed to view and sometimes covered with cheap
+paper flowers, bits of lace and jewelry, is taken to the church,
+where there are already as many as five or six bodies at a time
+awaiting the arrival of the priest to say prayers and sprinkle holy
+water upon them. If the family of the deceased is too poor to buy or
+rent a coffin, the body is wrapped in a coarse mat, slung on a pole,
+and carried to the outer door of the church, to have a little water
+sprinkled thereon or service said over it. If the families are unable
+to rent a spot of earth in the cemetery, their dead are dumped into a
+pile and left to decay and bleach upon the surface. In contrast with
+this brutal neglect of the poor, is the lavish expenditure of the
+rich. The daughter of one of the wealthy residents having died, the
+body was placed in a casket elaborately trimmed with blue satin, the
+catafalque also was covered with blue satin and trimmed with ruffles
+of satin and lace. In the funeral procession, the coffin was carried
+on the shoulders of several young men, while at the sides walked young
+ladies, each dressed in a blue satin gown with a long train and white
+veil, and each lavishly decorated with precious jewels. They held long,
+blue satin ribbons fastened to the casket. At the door of the church
+the casket was taken in charge by three priests, attended by thirty
+or forty choir boys, acolytes, and others, and placed upon a black
+pedestal about thirty feet high and completely surrounded by hundreds
+of candles, many of which were held in gilded figures of cherubim;
+the whole was surmounted by a flambeau made by immersing cotton in
+alcohol. The general effect was of a huge burning pile. Incense was
+burned every where in and about the edifice, which was elaborately
+decorated with satin festoons, palms, artificial flowers, emblems
+wrought in beads, all in profusion and arranged with native taste. All
+this, with the intonation of the priests, the chanting of the choir,
+and the blaring of three bands, made a weird and impressive scene
+never to be forgotten. After the ceremony, which lasted about an
+hour, the body was taken to the cemetery, and, as it was by this
+time quite dark, each person in the procession carried a torch or
+candle. I noticed quite a number of Chinese among the following,
+evidently friends, and these were arrayed in as gorgeous apparel as
+the natives. The remains having been disposed of, there was a grand
+reception given in the evening in honor of the deceased.
+
+It is customary to have a dance every Sunday evening, and each woman
+has a chair in which she sits while not dancing. The priests not only
+attend, but participate most heartily.
+
+I was told that among the papers captured in Manila was a document
+which proved to be the last bull issued by the Pope to the King of
+Spain (1895 or 96). This was an agreement between the Pope and the
+King, whereby the former conveys to the latter the right to authorize
+the sale of indulgences. The King, in turn, sold this right to the
+padres and friars in the islands. Absolution from a lie cost the
+sinner six pesos, or three dollars in gold; other sins in proportion to
+their enormity and the financial ability of the offender. The annual
+income of the King of Spain from this system has been estimated at
+the modest figure of ten millions.
+
+The discovery of this and other documents is due to a party of
+interpreters who became greatly fascinated by the unearthing
+process. In the same church in which these were found, the men
+investigated the gambling tables and found them controlled and
+manipulated from the room below by means of traps, tubes, and other
+appliances. An interesting fact in this connection is that one of
+the interpreters was himself a Romanist, and loath to believe his
+eyes, but the evidence was convincing, and he was forced to admit
+it. Gambling is a national custom, deeply rooted.
+
+I shall never forget the joy I experienced when we got two milch
+cows. What visions of milk, cream, and butter,--fresh butter, not
+canned; then, too, to see the natives milk was truly a diversion;
+they went at it from the wrong side, stood at as great a distance
+as the length of arms permitted, and in a few seconds were through,
+having obtained for their trouble about a pint of milk--an excellent
+milk-man's fluid--a blue and chalky mixture.
+
+One day I heard what seemed to be a cry of distress, half human in
+entreaty, and I rushed to see what could be the matter. There, on its
+back, was a goat being milked; there were four boys, each holding a
+leg, while the fifth one milked upward into a cocoanut shell. It was
+a ludicrous sight.
+
+One of their dainties is cooked grasshoppers, which are sold by the
+bushel in the markets. I cannot recommend this dish, for I never
+was able to summon sufficient courage to test it, but I should think
+it would be as delectable as the myriad little dried fish which are
+eaten with garlic as a garnish and flavor.
+
+The poor little horses are half starved and otherwise maltreated by
+the natives, who haven't the least idea of how to manage them. They
+beat them to make them go, then pull up sharply on the reins which
+whirls them round and round or plunges them right and left, often
+into the ditches beside the road. It was no uncommon sight to see
+officers or men getting out of their quielas to push and pull to get
+the animal started, only to have the driver whip and jerk as before.
+
+Some of the natives bought the American horses and it was painful to
+see them try to make our noble steeds submit to methods a la Filipino.
+
+Beggars by the thousand were everywhere, blind, lame, and deformed;
+homeless, they wandered from town to town to beg, especially on
+market days. One blind woman, who lived on the road from Iloilo to
+Jaro, had collected seventy-five "mex," only to have it stolen by
+her sister. Complaint was made to the military commander, but it was
+found that the money had been spent and that there was no redress to
+be had. She must continue to beg while her sister lived hard by in
+the new "shack" which she had built with the stolen "denaro" (money).
+
+About three miles from Jaro was quite a leper colony, shunned,
+of course, by the natives. During confession, the lepers kneeled
+several rods away from the priests. I saw one poor woman whose feet
+were entirely gone lashed to a board so she could drag herself along
+by the aid of her hands, which had not yet begun to decay.
+
+There were no visible means of caring for the sick and afflicted; the
+insane were kept in stocks or chained to trees, and the U. S. hospitals
+were so overtaxed by the demands made upon them by our own soldiers
+that little space or attention could be spared to the natives. Charity
+begins at home.
+
+God bless the dear women who nursed our sick soldiers; it was my
+pleasure to know quite intimately several of these girls who have
+made many a poor boy more comfortable. I am proud, too, of our
+U. S. Army; of course not all of the men were of the Sunday School
+order, but under such great discomforts, in such deadly perils, and
+among such treacherous people, nothing more can be expected of mortal
+men than they rendered. Many poor boys trusted these natives to their
+sorrow. They accepted hospitality and their death was planned right
+before their eyes, they, of course, not understanding the language
+sufficiently to comprehend what was intended. They paid the penalty
+of their trust with their lives.
+
+On Decoration Day we were able to make beautiful wreaths and
+crosses. Our soldiers marched to the cemeteries and placed the
+flowers on the graves of the brave boys who had given their lives in
+defence of the flag. I had the pleasure of representing the mothers,
+whose spiritual presence was, I felt sure, with those far-away loved
+ones. An officer has written me that Memorial Day was again observed
+this year, and I am sure it was done fittingly.
+
+A Protestant mission was established at Jaro, in a bamboo chapel,
+pure bamboo throughout, roof, walls, windows, seats, floor. The seats,
+however, were seldom used, for the natives prefer to squat on the
+floor. The congregation consisted of men, women, and children, many
+of whom came on foot from a distance of twenty or more miles, the
+older people scantily clad, and the children entirely naked; a more
+attentive audience would be hard to find, as all were eager to get the
+"cheap religion." None of the inhabitants of Jaro attend, as yet;
+they fear to do so, since they are under the strict surveillance
+of the padre, and are in the shadow of the seminary for priests,
+the educational center of the island of Panay.
+
+The Protestant minister is a graduate of this institution and is
+subject to all imaginable abuses and insults. Under his teachings,
+a great many have been baptized, who seemed devoutly in earnest; it
+is inspiring to hear them sing with great zeal the familiar hymns,
+"Rock of Ages," "Safe in the Arms of Jesus," etc. One incident
+will suffice to illustrate the intense and determined opposition to
+Protestantism. One of the native teachers was warned not to return
+to his home, but, in defiance of all threats, he did so, and was
+murdered before the eyes of his family. I shall expect to hear that
+many other missionaries have been disposed of in a similar manner,
+after the withdrawal of the American troops.
+
+Many ask my opinion as to the value of these possessions; to me they
+seem rich beyond all estimate. A friend whom I met there, a man who
+has seen practically the whole world, said that, for climate and
+possibilities, he knew of no country to compare with the Philippines.
+
+The young generation is greedy for knowledge and anxious to progress,
+though the older people do not take kindly to innovations, but cling
+to their old superstitions and cruelties. God grant the better day
+may come soon.
+
+There was quite an ambition among the natives to be musical;
+they picked up quickly, "by ear," some of the catchy things our
+band played. When I heard them playing "A Hot Time in the Old Town
+To-night," on their way to the cemetery, I could not restrain my
+laughter, and if the deceased were of the order of Katapunan the
+prophecy was fulfilled. Officers informed me that this society was
+probably the worst one ever organized, more deadly than anarchists
+ever were. It was originated by the Masons, but the priests acquired
+control of it and made it a menace to law and order. I should not
+have escaped with my life had it not been for one of the best friends
+I have ever known, a "mestizo," part Spanish and part Filipino. She
+undoubtedly saved my life by declaring that before anything was done
+to me she and her husband must be sacrificed. "Greater love hath no
+man than this." They were influential people throughout the islands,
+and nothing occurred.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ISLANDS CEBU AND ROMBLOM.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-FOUR.
+
+
+The various islands seemed to have their own peculiarities. Cebu is
+famous for vast quantities of Manila hemp; also for shell spoons;
+these are beautiful, of various sizes, and colors, according to the
+shell they are cut from. They are especially appropriate in serving
+fish. The abaka-cloth of this island is the finest made, and its pearl
+fisheries are valuable. In 1901 a lively insurrection was going on in
+Cebu. The banks of the bay were lined with refugees who had come from
+the inland to be protected from their enemies. There were hundreds
+of them, but not a single cooking utensil amongst them. Some would
+go up to the market place and buy a penny's worth of rice skillfully
+put up in a woven piece of bamboo. And lucky for them if they had
+the penny. The rest spent their time fishing.
+
+The cathedral of Cebu, built of stone, is especially fine. It has for
+its Patron Saint, a babe, Santa Nina. The story is that at one time
+there were a great many babies stricken with a malady; the parents
+vowed if the Holy Mother would spare their children they would build
+this cathedral.
+
+One of the largest prisons is at Cebu. We were shown many of the
+dungeons; there were then confined within those walls many very
+bad Insurrectos.
+
+As we were eager to visit one of the large estates, we were given a
+heavy guard and went inland about two miles from the port; it was
+certainly a fine plantation, much better kept than any I had ever
+seen before. We were apparently cordially received, and were assured
+if we would only stay we could partake of some of the family pig,
+that was even then wandering around in the best room in the house.
+
+The floor of the large reception room was polished as perfectly as a
+piano top; its boards were at least eighteen inches wide and sixteen to
+twenty feet long. I asked several persons the name of this beautiful
+place, but could not find out. On the sideboard were quantities of
+fine china and silver that had been received only a few days before
+from Spain, there was a large grand piano, and there were eight or
+ten chairs in the center of the room forming a hollow square. Here
+we were seated and were offered refreshments of wine, cigars and
+"dulce." While this place seemed isolated it was not more than ten
+minutes before we had a gathering of several hundred natives, indeed
+our visit was shortened by the fear that we might be outnumbered and
+captured, and so we hastened back to quarters.
+
+While all the islands are tropical in appearance, Cebu is pre-eminently
+luxuriant. We were sorry not to stay longer and learn more of its
+people and its industries.
+
+Romblom is considered by many the most picturesque of the islands. The
+entrance is certainly beautiful; small ships can come up to the
+dock. The town itself is on the banks of a wonderful stream of water
+that has been brought down from the hills above. There is a finely
+constructed aqueduct that must have cost the Spaniards a great deal
+of money, even with cheap labor. It is certainly a very delightfully
+situated little town. This place is famous for its mats; they are woven
+of every conceivable color and texture, and are of all sizes, from
+those for a child's bed to those for the side of a house. The edges of
+some mats are woven to look like lace, and some like embroidery. They
+range in price from fifty cents to fifty dollars. Every one who visits
+Romblom is sure to bring away a mat.
+
+On every island much corn is raised, perhaps for export; certainly
+the staple is rice. Quite a number of young men who were officers in
+our volunteer regiments, have located on the island of Guimeras, and
+I have no doubt that, with their New England thrift, they will be able
+to secure magnificent crops. The soil is amazingly rich; under skilled
+care it will produce a hundred fold. Many of the islands are so near
+to one another that it is an easy matter to pass from island to island.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+LITERATURE.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-FIVE.
+
+
+In no house of any town, on any island, nor in the very best houses
+of the so-called very best families, did I ever see any books,
+newspapers, magazines, periodicals of any kind whatever. One woman
+triumphantly took out of a box a book, nicely folded up in wax paper,
+a history of the United States, printed in 1840. In a lower room of a
+large house, once a convent, but now occupied by two or three priests,
+there were perhaps four or five hundred books written in Spanish and
+Latin on church matters. One reason for the dearth of books is the
+difficulty of protecting them from the ravages of the ants. We found
+to our horror that our books were devoured by them. And then the times
+were troublous and things were out of joint. In the large seminary at
+Molo, where hundreds of girls are taught every year, I did not see a
+single book of any kind or any printed matter, except a few pamphlets
+concerning the Roman church. The girls work on embroideries, and surely
+for fineness they surpass all others. They do the most cobweb-like
+drawn work, and on this are wrought roses, lilies, and butterflies
+with outspread wings that look as if they had just lighted down to sip
+the nectar from the blossoms; these very fine embroideries are done
+on the pina cloth. It is no wonder that the people would get even the
+advertisements on our canned goods and ask any American whom they met
+what the letters were and what the words meant. Our empty cans with
+tomato, pear, peach labels were to them precious things. Whereever
+our soldiers were, the adults and the children crowded around them
+and impromptu classes were formed to spell out all the American words
+they could find; even the newspaper wrappers and the letter envelopes,
+that were thrown away, were carefully picked up so as to glean the
+meaning of these "Americano" words. There was near our quarters a very
+large building that was used for the education of boys; one can form
+some idea of the size of this building when two or three regiments
+were encamped there with all their equipments.
+
+There may have been books here, once, but nothing was left when our
+troops occupied it except a few pictures on the walls, a few tables
+and desks, a few chairs and sleeping mats.
+
+There was a little story in connection with the bell tower on one
+side of the plaza in Jaro; this tower was about eighty feet high,
+had a roof and niches for seven or eight good sounding bells. From
+the top of this tower one could see many miles in every direction;
+when the Philippine army fled from the town they immediately thought
+our soldiers might ascend the tower and watch their course, so
+they burned the staircases. Alas for the little children who had
+taken refuge in the tower! As the flames swept up the stairways,
+they fled before them; two of them actually clung to the clapper of
+one great bell, and there they hung until its frame was burned away
+and the poor little things fell with the falling bell. Their remains
+were found later by our soldiers, the small hands still faithful
+to their hold. The bells were in time replaced and doubtless still
+chime out the hours of the day. It is the duty of one man to attend
+to the bells; the greater the festival day the oftener and longer
+they ring. When they rang a special peal for some special service,
+I tried to attend. One day there was an unusual amount of commotion
+and clanging, so I determined to go over to the service. Hundreds of
+natives had gathered together. To my surprise, six natives came in
+bearing on their shoulders a bamboo pole; from this pole a hammock
+was suspended, in which some one was reclining; but over the entire
+person, hammock, and pole, was thrown a thick bamboo net, entirely
+concealing all within; it was taken up to the chancel and whoever
+was in that hammock was given the sacrament. He was, no doubt, some
+eminent civilian or officer, for the vast congregation rose to their
+feet when the procession came in and when it passed out. I asked
+two or three of the Filipino women, whom I knew well, who it was,
+but they professed not to know. They always treated me with respect
+when I attended any of their services and placed a chair for me. I
+noticed how few carried books to church. I do not believe I ever saw
+a dozen books in the hands of worshipers in any of the cathedrals,
+and I visited a great many, five on Palm Sunday, 1900. I know from
+the children themselves, and from their teachers, that there are
+complaints about the size of the books and about the number which
+they have to get their lessons from in the new schools.
+
+There are three American newspapers in Manila, and one American
+library. The grand success of the library more than repays all the cost
+and trouble of establishing it. One must experience it to know the
+joy of getting letters, magazines, papers, and books that come once
+or twice a month, only. It really seemed when the precious mail bags
+were opened that their treasures were too sacred to be even handled. We
+were so hungry and thirsty for news from home, for reading matter in
+this bookless country, where even a primer would have been a prize.
+
+I alternated between passive submission to island laziness,
+shiftlessness, slovenliness, dirt, and active assertion of Ohio
+vim. Sick of vermin and slime, I would take pail, scrubbing brush
+and lye, and fall to; sick of it all, I would get a Summit county
+breakfast, old fashioned pan cakes for old times' sake; sick of the
+native laundress who cleansed nothing, I would give an Akron rub myself
+to my own clothes and have something fit to wear. These attacks of
+energy depended somewhat on the temperature, somewhat on exhausted
+patience, somewhat on homesickness, but most on dread of revolt and
+attack; or of sickening news--not of battle, but of assassination and
+mutilation. Whether I worked or rested, I was careful to sit or stand
+close to a wall--to guard against a stab in the back. I smile now,
+not gaily, at the picture of myself over a washtub, a small dagger
+in my belt, a revolver on a stool within easy reach of my steady,
+right hand, rubbing briskly while the tears of homesickness rolled
+down in uncontrollable floods, but singing, nevertheless, with might
+and main:--
+
+
+			"Am I a soldier of the Cross,
+			  A follower of the Lamb?
+			And shall I fear to own His cause,
+			  Or blush to speak His name?
+
+			"Must I be carried to the skies
+			  On flowery beds of ease,
+			While others fought to win the prize,
+			  And sailed through bloody seas?"
+
+
+Singing as triumphantly as possible to the last verse and word of
+that ringing hymn. My door and windows were set thick with wondering
+faces and staring eyes, a Senora washing. These Americans were past
+understanding! And that revolver--they shivered as they looked at it,
+and not one doubted that it would be vigorously used if needed. And I
+looked at them, saying to myself, as I often did, "You poor miserable
+creatures, utterly neglected, utterly ignorant and degraded."
+
+No wonder that the diseased, the deformed, the blind, the one-toed, the
+twelve-toed, and monstrous parts and organs are the rule rather than
+the exception. These things are true of nine-tenths of this people.
+
+
+
+
+                            THE ADVERTISER.
+
+                      ILOILO 25th. NOVEMBER 1899.
+
+                                 EXTRA.
+
+                          Reuter's Telegrams.
+
+
+                           THE TRANSVAAL WAR.
+
+LONDON 25th. Novr.--The British losses at Belmont are stated at 48
+killed, 146 wounded, and 21 missing. The losses include four Officers
+killed and 21 wounded and are chiefly Guardsmen.
+
+50 Boers were taken prisoner, including the German commandant and
+six Field Cornets.
+
+The British Infantry are said to have behaved splendidly and were
+admirably supported by the Artillery and the Naval Brigade, carrying
+three Ridges successively. The Victory is a most complete one. It is
+stated that the enemy fought with the greatest courage and skill.
+
+
+This Extra was Issued Daily--Eighty-four Mexican Dollars per Year.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE GORDON SCOUTS.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-SIX.
+
+
+The Gordon Scouts were a detachment made up of volunteers from the
+Eighteenth U. S. Infantry. They were under direct command of Captain
+W. A. Gordon and Lieutenant A. L. Conger. The captain lost health and
+was sent home; thus the troop was, for about a year, under the command
+of Lieutenant Conger. It would not be proper for me to tell of the
+wonderful expeditions and the heroic deeds of the Gordon Scouts. No
+one was more generous in praise of them than General Del Gardo, now
+governor of the Island of Panay. He told me often of his great esteem
+for my son and of the generous way in which he treated his prisoners
+and captives. Surely men were never kinder to a woman than these
+scouts were to me; they most affectionately called me Mother Conger
+and treated me always with the greatest respect and kindness. I hope
+some day the history of this brave band of men will be written, with
+its more than romantic campaigns and wonderful exploits, marches,
+dangers, and miraculous escapes. Few men were wounded or disabled,
+notwithstanding all the tedious marches in most impenetrable swamps
+and mountains, with no guide but the stars by night and the sun by
+day, and no maps or trusted men to guide them. I recall the bravery
+of one man who was shot through the abdomen, and when they stopped to
+carry him away he said, "Leave me here; I cannot live, and you may
+all be captured or killed." They tenderly placed him in a blanket,
+carried him to a place of safety, and, when he died, they brought
+him back to Jaro and buried him with military honors. He was the only
+man killed in all the months of their arduous tasks.
+
+If I have any courage I owe it to my grandmother. I will perhaps
+be pardoned if I say that all my girlhood life was spent with my
+Grandmother Bronson, a very small woman, weighing less than ninety
+pounds, small featured, always quaintly dressed in the old-fashioned
+Levantine silk with two breadths only in the skirt, a crossed silk
+handkerchief with a small white one folded neatly across her breast,
+a black silk apron, dainty cap made of sheer linen lawn with full
+ruffles. She it was who entered into all my child life and who used to
+tell me of her early pioneer days, and of her wonderful experiences
+with the Indians. In the War of 1812, fearing for his little family,
+my grandfather started her back to Connecticut on horse back with
+her four little children, the youngest, my father, only six months
+old. The two older children walked part of the way; whoever rode
+had to carry the baby and the next smallest child rode on a pillion
+that was tied to the saddle. In this way she accomplished the long
+journey from Cleveland, Ohio, to Connecticut. When she used to tell
+me of the wonderful things that happened on this tedious journey,
+that took weeks and weeks to accomplish, I used to wonder if I should
+ever take so long a trip. I take pleasure in presenting the dearly
+loved grandmother of eighty-one and the little girl of ten.
+
+While my dear little grandmother dreaded the Indians, I did the
+treacherous Filipinos; while she dreaded the wolves, bears and wild
+beasts, I did the stab of the ever ready bolo and stealthy natives,
+and the prospect of fire; she endured the pangs of hunger, so did I;
+and I now feel that I am worthy to be her descendant and to sit by
+her side.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+TRIALS OF GETTING HOME.
+
+CHAPTER TWENTY-SEVEN.
+
+
+The first stages of my return home were from Iloilo to Manila,
+and thence to Nagasaki, the chief port of Japan. Upon leaving
+Iloilo for Manila, my son accompanied me as far as Manila; he heard
+incidentally that he was to be made a staff officer; as I procured
+quick transportation as far as Nagasaki, I told him to return to
+his duties and I would get along some way. Upon reaching Nagasaki,
+the difficulties began. I went immediately to the various offices of
+steamship lines and found there was no passage of any grade to be
+had. Many were fleeing from the various ports to get away from the
+plague and all steamers were crowded because of the reduced rates
+to the Pan-American Fair. Thinking I might have a better chance from
+Yokohama, I took passage up there on the North German Lloyd line. I
+had a splendid state-room, fine service, the best of everything. I
+told the purser I should like to engage that same state-room back to
+Liverpool; he replied he could not take me, that I would not live to
+get there. I assured him that I was a good sailor, that I was very
+much emaciated with my long stay in the Philippines, that I would soon
+recover with his good food and the sea air; but he refused to take
+me. When I reached Yokohama, I immediately began to see if I could not
+secure sailing from there; day after day went by, it was the old story,
+everything taken. When the Gaelic was returning I told the captain that
+I would be willing to take even third cabin at first class rates, but
+even thus there were no accommodations. Within an hour of the ship's
+sailing, word was brought to me that two women had given up their
+cabin and that I might have it; it was two miles out to the ship,
+with no sampan--small boat--of any kind to get my baggage out, so I
+tearfully saw this ship sail away. I then decided to return to Nagasaki
+to try again from that port. The voyage back was by the Empress line of
+steamers flying between Vancouver and Yokohama. Upon reaching Nagasaki
+again I appealed to the quarter-master to secure transportation; he
+said I could not get anything at all. Officers whom I had met in the
+Philippines proposed to take me and my baggage on board without the
+necessary red tape, in fact to make me a stow-away, but I refused. I
+cabled my son in New York to see if I could get a favorable order
+from Washington. I cabled Governor Taft, but he was powerless in the
+great pressure of our returning troops. In the meantime, I was daily
+growing weaker from the excitement and worry of being unable to do
+anything at all. The housekeeper of the very well-kept Nagasaki hotel
+was especially kind. She gave me very good attention and even the
+Chinese boy who took care of my room and brought my meals realized
+the desperate condition I was in. One day, with the deepest kind of
+solicitude on his otherwise stolid but child-like and bland face,
+he said:--
+
+"Mrs., you no got husband?"
+
+"No."
+
+"You no got all same boys."
+
+"Yes, I have three nice boys."
+
+"Why no then you three boys not come and help poor sick mother go
+home to die?"
+
+Captain John E. Weber, of the Thirty-Eighth Volunteers returning
+home on transport Logan, insisted upon my taking his state room. The
+quarter-master, who had refused me so many times before, thought that
+he could not allow it, anything so out of the "general routine of
+business;" but Captain Weber said, "On no account will I leave you
+here, after all your faithful service in the Philippines to myself,
+other officers, and hundreds of boys." I had one of the best state
+rooms on the upper deck and received the most kindly attentions from
+many on board; the quarter-master had been a personal friend of my
+husband in other and happier days. On the homeward way, the ship
+took what is known as the northern course; she made no stop between
+Nagasaki and San Francisco. We went far enough north to see the coast
+of Alaska. We saw many whales and experienced much cold weather. In
+my low state of vitality I suffered from the cold, but not from sea
+sickness. I did not miss a single meal en route during the twenty-four
+sailing days of the ship. They were days of great pleasure. We had
+social games and singing, and religious services on Sunday. There were
+a great many sick soldiers in the ship's hospital; three dying during
+the voyage. On reaching San Francisco the ship was placed in quarantine
+the usual number of days, but there was no added delay as there were
+on board no cases of infectious disease. Mrs. General Funston was
+one of the passengers and was greeted most cordially by the friends
+and neighbors of this, her native state. Upon my declaring to the
+custom house officers that I had been two years in the Philippines
+and had nothing for sale they immediately passed my baggage without
+any trouble. My son in New York, to whom I had cabled from Nagasaki,
+had never received my message, so there was no one to meet me, but
+I was so thankful to be in dear, blessed America that it was joy
+enough. No, not enough until I reached my own beloved home. Had it
+been possible I would have kissed every blade of grass on its grounds,
+and every leaf on its trees.
+
+I am not ashamed to say that July 10th, the day of my home coming,
+I knelt down and kissed with unspeakable gratitude and love its dear
+earth and once more thanked God that His hand had led me--led me home.
+
+"Adious."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of An Ohio Woman in the Philippines, by
+Emily Bronson Conger
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