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-<title>FOLLOWING THE EQUATOR, Part 3</title>
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-<tr><td>
- &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="p2.htm">Previous Part</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-</td><td>
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="2895-h.htm">Main Index</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-</td><td>
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="p4.htm">Next Part</a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-
-</td></tr>
-</table>
-</center>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center>
-
-
- <h1>FOLLOWING</h1>
- <h1>THE EQUATOR</h1>
- <br><br><br>
- <h3>Part 3.</h3>
- <br><br><br>
- <h2>A JOURNEY AROUND THE WORLD</h2>
- <h2>BY</h2>
- <h2>MARK TWAIN</h2>
- <br><br><br>
- <h3>SAMUEL L. CLEMENS</h3>
- <h3>HARTFORD, CONNECTICUT</h3>
-
-
-</center>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="bookcover.jpg (131K)" src="images/bookcover.jpg" height="918" width="650">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<center><img alt="bookspine.jpg (70K)" src="images/bookspine.jpg" height="918" width="265">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<center><img alt="booktitle.jpg (53K)" src="images/booktitle.jpg" height="1051" width="619">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<center><img alt="bookfront.jpg (50K)" src="images/bookfront.jpg" height="978" width="650">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<center><img alt="bookdedicate.jpg (13K)" src="images/bookdedicate.jpg" height="329" width="575">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<center><img alt="bookmaxim.jpg (16K)" src="images/bookmaxim.jpg" height="367" width="627">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-
-
- <center><h2>CONTENTS &nbsp;OF &nbsp; PART 3.</h2></center>
-
-
-<blockquote><blockquote><blockquote><blockquote>
-<h3><a href="#ch20">CHAPTER XX.</a></h3>
-<p>
-A Caller&mdash;A Talk about Old Times&mdash;The Fox Hunt&mdash;An Accurate Judgment of
-an Idiot&mdash;How We Passed the Custom Officers in Italy
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch21">CHAPTER XXI</a>.</h3>
-<p>
-The "Weet-Weet"&mdash;Keeping down the Population&mdash;Victoria&mdash;Killing the
-Aboriginals&mdash;Pioneer Days in Queensland&mdash;Material for a Drama&mdash;The
-Bush&mdash;Pudding with Arsenic&mdash;Revenge&mdash;A Right Spirit but a Wrong Method&mdash;Death of
-Donga Billy
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch22">CHAPTER XXII.</a></h3>
-<p>
-Continued Description of Aboriginals&mdash;Manly Qualities&mdash;Dodging
-Balls&mdash;Feats of Spring&mdash;Jumping&mdash;Where the Kangaroo Learned its Art&mdash;Well
-Digging&mdash;Endurance&mdash;Surgery&mdash;Artistic Abilities&mdash;Fennimore Cooper's Last
-Chance&mdash;Australian Slang
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch23">CHAPTER XXIII.</a></h3>
-<p>
-To Horsham (Colony of Victoria)&mdash;Description of Horsham&mdash;At the
-Hotel&mdash;Pepper Tree-The Agricultural College, Forty Pupils&mdash;High
-Temperature&mdash;Width of Road in Chains, Perches, etc.&mdash;The Bird with a Forgettable
-Name&mdash;The Magpie and the Lady&mdash;Fruit Trees&mdash;Soils&mdash;Sheep Shearing&mdash;To
-Stawell&mdash;Gold Mining Country&mdash;$75,000 per Month Income and able to Keep
-House&mdash;Fine Grapes and Wine&mdash;The Dryest Community on Earth&mdash;The Three
-Sisters&mdash;Gum Trees and Water
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch24">CHAPTER XXIV.</a></h3>
-<p>
-Road to Ballarat&mdash;The City&mdash;Great Gold Strike, 1851&mdash;Rush for
-Australia&mdash;"Great Nuggets"&mdash;Taxation&mdash;Revolt and Victory&mdash;Peter Lalor and the
-Eureka Stockade&mdash;"Pencil Mark"&mdash;Fine Statuary at
-Ballarat&mdash;Population&mdash;Ballarat English
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch25">CHAPTER XXV.</a></h3>
-<p>
-Bound for Bendigo&mdash;The Priest at Castlemaine&mdash;Time Saved by
-Walking&mdash;Description of Bendigo&mdash;A Valuable Nugget&mdash;Perseverence and
-Success&mdash;Mr. Blank and His Influence&mdash;Conveyance of an Idea&mdash;I Had to Like the
-Irishman&mdash;Corrigan Castle, and the Mark Twain Club&mdash;My Bascom Mystery
-Solved
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch26">CHAPTER XXVI.</a></h3>
-<p>
-Where New Zealand Is&mdash;But Few Know&mdash;Things People Think They Know&mdash;The
-Yale Professor and His Visitor from N. Z.
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch27">CHAPTER XXVII.</a></h3>
-<p>
-The South Pole Swell&mdash;Tasmania&mdash;Extermination of the Natives&mdash;The Picture
-Proclamation&mdash;The Conciliator&mdash;The Formidable Sixteen
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch28">CHAPTER XXVIII.</a></h3>
-<p>
-When the Moment Comes the Man Appears&mdash;Why Ed. Jackson called on
-Commodore Vanderbilt&mdash;Their Interview&mdash;Welcome to the Child of His
-Friend&mdash;A Big Time but under Inspection&mdash;Sent on Important Business&mdash;A Visit to
-the Boys on the Boat
-
-<br><br><br>
-<h3><a href="#ch29">CHAPTER XXIX.</a></h3>
-<p>
-Tasmania, Early Days&mdash;Description of the Town of Hobart&mdash;An Englishman's
-Love of Home Surroundings&mdash;Neatest City on Earth&mdash;The Museum&mdash;A Parrot
-with an Acquired Taste&mdash;Glass Arrow Beads&mdash;Refuge for the Indigent too
-healthy
-
-</blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<br><hr><br>
-<br><br><br>
-<br>
-<br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch20"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XX.</h2>
-
-<p><i>It is by the goodness of God that in our country we have those three
-unspeakably precious things: freedom of speech, freedom of conscience,
-and the prudence never to practice either of them.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>From diary:
-
-<p>Mr. G. called. I had not seen him since Nauheim, Germany&mdash;several years
-ago; the time that the cholera broke out at Hamburg. We talked of the
-people we had known there, or had casually met; and G. said:
-
-<p>"Do you remember my introducing you to an earl&mdash;the Earl of C.?"
-
-<p>"Yes. That was the last time I saw you. You and he were in a carriage,
-just starting&mdash;belated&mdash;for the train. I remember it."
-
-<p>"I remember it too, because of a thing which happened then which I was
-not looking for. He had told me a while before, about a remarkable and
-interesting Californian whom he had met and who was a friend of yours,
-and said that if he should ever meet you he would ask you for some
-particulars about that Californian. The subject was not mentioned that
-day at Nauheim, for we were hurrying away, and there was no time; but the
-thing that surprised me was this: when I introduced you, you said, 'I am
-glad to meet your lordship again.' The 'again' was the surprise. He is
-a little hard of hearing, and didn't catch that word, and I thought you
-hadn't intended that he should. As we drove off I had only time to say,
-'Why, what do you know about him?' and I understood you to say, 'Oh,
-nothing, except that he is the quickest judge of&mdash;&mdash;' Then we were gone,
-and I didn't get the rest. I wondered what it was that he was such a
-quick judge of. I have thought of it many times since, and still
-wondered what it could be. He and I talked it over, but could not guess
-it out. He thought it must be fox-hounds or horses, for he is a good
-judge of those&mdash;no one is a better. But you couldn't know that, because
-you didn't know him; you had mistaken him for some one else; it must be
-that, he said, because he knew you had never met him before. And of
-course you hadn't had you?"
-
-<p>"Yes, I had."
-
-<p>"Is that so? Where?"
-
-<p>"At a fox-hunt, in England."
-
-<p>"How curious that is. Why, he hadn't the least recollection of it. Had
-you any conversation with him?"
-
-<p>"Some&mdash;yes."
-
-<p>"Well, it left not the least impression upon him. What did you talk
-about?"
-
-<p>"About the fox. I think that was all."
-
-<p>"Why, that would interest him; that ought to have left an impression.
-What did he talk about?"
-
-<p>"The fox."
-
-<p>"It's very curious. I don't understand it. Did what he said leave an
-impression upon you?"
-
-<p>"Yes. It showed me that he was a quick judge of&mdash;however, I will tell
-you all about it, then you will understand. It was a quarter of a
-century ago 1873 or '74. I had an American friend in London named F.,
-who was fond of hunting, and his friends the Blanks invited him and me to
-come out to a hunt and be their guests at their country place. In the
-morning the mounts were provided, but when I saw the horses I changed my
-mind and asked permission to walk. I had never seen an English hunter
-before, and it seemed to me that I could hunt a fox safer on the ground.
-I had always been diffident about horses, anyway, even those of the
-common altitudes, and I did not feel competent to hunt on a horse that
-went on stilts. So then Mrs. Blank came to my help and said I could go
-with her in the dog-cart and we would drive to a place she knew of, and
-there we should have a good glimpse of the hunt as it went by.
-
-<p>"When we got to that place I got out and went and leaned my elbows on a
-low stone wall which enclosed a turfy and beautiful great field with
-heavy wood on all its sides except ours. Mrs. Blank sat in the dog-cart
-fifty yards away, which was as near as she could get with the vehicle.
-I was full of interest, for I had never seen a fox-hunt. I waited,
-dreaming and imagining, in the deep stillness and impressive tranquility
-which reigned in that retired spot. Presently, from away off in the
-forest on the left, a mellow bugle-note came floating; then all of a
-sudden a multitude of dogs burst out of that forest and went tearing by
-and disappeared in the forest on the right; there was a pause, and then
-a cloud of horsemen in black caps and crimson coats plunged out of the
-left-hand forest and went flaming across the field like a prairie-fire,
-a stirring sight to see. There was one man ahead of the rest, and he
-came spurring straight at me. He was fiercely excited. It was fine to
-see him ride; he was a master horseman. He came like a storm till he
-was within seven feet of me, where I was leaning on the wall, then he
-stood his horse straight up in the air on his hind toe-nails, and shouted
-like a demon:
-
-<p>"'Which way'd the fox go?'
-
-<p>"I didn't much like the tone, but I did not let on; for he was excited,
-you know. But I was calm; so I said softly, and without acrimony:
-
-<p>"'Which fox?'
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p198.jpg (51K)" src="images/p198.jpg" height="505" width="650">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>"It seemed to anger him. I don't know why; and he thundered out:
-
-<p>"'WHICH fox? Why, THE fox? Which way did the FOX go?'
-
-<p>"I said, with great gentleness&mdash;even argumentatively:
-
-<p>"'If you could be a little more definite&mdash;a little less vague&mdash;because I
-am a stranger, and there are many foxes, as you will know even better
-than I, and unless I know which one it is that you desire to identify,
-and&mdash;&mdash;'
-
-<p>"'You're certainly the damdest idiot that has escaped in a thousand
-years!' and he snatched his great horse around as easily as I would
-snatch a cat, and was away like a hurricane. A very excitable man.
-
-<p>"I went back to Mrs. Blank, and she was excited, too&mdash;oh, all alive. She
-said:
-
-<p>"'He spoke to you!&mdash;didn't he?'
-
-<p>"'Yes, it is what happened.'
-
-<p>"'I knew it! I couldn't hear what he said, but I knew he spoke to you! Do
-you know who it was? It was Lord C., and he is Master of the Buckhounds!
-Tell me&mdash;what do you think of him?'
-
-<p>"'Him? Well, for sizing-up a stranger, he's got the most sudden and
-accurate judgment of any man I ever saw.'
-
-<p>"It pleased her. I thought it would."
-
-<p>G. got away from Nauheim just in time to escape being shut in by the
-quarantine-bars on the frontiers; and so did we, for we left the next
-day. But G. had a great deal of trouble in getting by the Italian
-custom-house, and we should have fared likewise but for the
-thoughtfulness of our consul-general in Frankfort. He introduced me to
-the Italian consul-general, and I brought away from that consulate a
-letter which made our way smooth. It was a dozen lines merely commending
-me in a general way to the courtesies of servants in his Italian
-Majesty's service, but it was more powerful than it looked. In addition
-to a raft of ordinary baggage, we had six or eight trunks which were
-filled exclusively with dutiable stuff&mdash;household goods purchased in
-Frankfort for use in Florence, where we had taken a house. I was going
-to ship these through by express; but at the last moment an order went
-throughout Germany forbidding the moving of any parcels by train unless
-the owner went with them. This was a bad outlook. We must take these
-things along, and the delay sure to be caused by the examination of them
-in the custom-house might lose us our train. I imagined all sorts of
-terrors, and enlarged them steadily as we approached the Italian
-frontier. We were six in number, clogged with all that baggage, and I
-was courier for the party&mdash;the most incapable one they ever employed.
-
-<p>We arrived, and pressed with the crowd into the immense custom-house, and
-the usual worries began; everybody crowding to the counter and begging to
-have his baggage examined first, and all hands clattering and chattering
-at once. It seemed to me that I could do nothing; it would be better to
-give it all up and go away and leave the baggage. I couldn't speak the
-language; I should never accomplish anything. Just then a tall handsome
-man in a fine uniform was passing by and I knew he must be the
-station-master&mdash;and that reminded me of my letter. I ran to him and put it into
-his hands. He took it out of the envelope, and the moment his eye caught
-the royal coat of arms printed at its top, he took off his cap and made a
-beautiful bow to me, and said in English:
-
-<p>"Which is your baggage? Please show it to me."
-
-<p>I showed him the mountain. Nobody was disturbing it; nobody was
-interested in it; all the family's attempts to get attention to it had
-failed&mdash;except in the case of one of the trunks containing the dutiable
-goods. It was just being opened. My officer said:
-
-<p>"There, let that alone! Lock it. Now chalk it. Chalk all of the lot.
-Now please come and show me the hand-baggage."
-
-<p>He plowed through the waiting crowd, I following, to the counter, and he
-gave orders again, in his emphatic military way:
-
-<p>"Chalk these. Chalk all of them."
-
-<p>Then he took off his cap and made that beautiful bow again, and went his
-way. By this time these attentions had attracted the wonder of that acre
-of passengers, and the whisper had gone around that the royal family were
-present getting their baggage chalked; and as we passed down in review on
-our way to the door, I was conscious of a pervading atmosphere of envy
-which gave me deep satisfaction.
-
-<p>But soon there was an accident. My overcoat pockets were stuffed with
-German cigars and linen packages of American smoking tobacco, and a
-porter was following us around with this overcoat on his arm, and
-gradually getting it upside down. Just as I, in the rear of my family,
-moved by the sentinels at the door, about three hatfuls of the tobacco
-tumbled out on the floor. One of the soldiers pounced upon it, gathered
-it up in his arms, pointed back whence I had come, and marched me ahead
-of him past that long wall of passengers again&mdash;he chattering and
-exulting like a devil, they smiling in peaceful joy, and I trying to look
-as if my pride was not hurt, and as if I did not mind being brought to
-shame before these pleased people who had so lately envied me. But at
-heart I was cruelly humbled.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p203.jpg (54K)" src="images/p203.jpg" height="421" width="650">
-</center>
-<a href="images/p203.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Full Size" src="images/enlarge.jpg"></a>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>When I had been marched two-thirds of the long distance and the misery of
-it was at the worst, the stately station-master stepped out from
-somewhere, and the soldier left me and darted after him and overtook him;
-and I could see by the soldier's excited gestures that he was betraying
-to him the whole shabby business. The station-master was plainly very
-angry. He came striding down toward me, and when he was come near he
-began to pour out a stream of indignant Italian; then suddenly took off
-his hat and made that beautiful bow and said:
-
-<p>"Oh, it is you! I beg a thousands pardons! This idiot here&mdash;-" He turned
-to the exulting soldier and burst out with a flood of white-hot Italian
-lava, and the next moment he was bowing, and the soldier and I were
-moving in procession again&mdash;he in the lead and ashamed, this time, I with
-my chin up. And so we marched by the crowd of fascinated passengers, and
-I went forth to the train with the honors of war. Tobacco and all.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p205.jpg (17K)" src="images/p205.jpg" height="331" width="573">
-</center>
-
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch21"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXI.</h2>
-
-<p><i>Man will do many things to get himself loved, he will do all things to
-get himself envied.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>Before I saw Australia I had never heard of the "weet-weet" at all.
-I met but few men who had seen it thrown&mdash;at least I met but few who
-mentioned having seen it thrown. Roughly described, it is a fat wooden
-cigar with its butt-end fastened to a flexible twig. The whole thing is
-only a couple of feet long, and weighs less than two ounces. This
-feather&mdash;so to call it&mdash;is not thrown through the air, but is flung with
-an underhanded throw and made to strike the ground a little way in front
-of the thrower; then it glances and makes a long skip; glances again,
-skips again, and again and again, like the flat stone which a boy sends
-skating over the water. The water is smooth, and the stone has a good
-chance; so a strong man may make it travel fifty or seventy-five yards;
-but the weet-weet has no such good chance, for it strikes sand, grass,
-and earth in its course. Yet an expert aboriginal has sent it a measured
-distance of two hundred and twenty yards. It would have gone even
-further but it encountered rank ferns and underwood on its passage and
-they damaged its speed. Two hundred and twenty yards; and so weightless
-a toy&mdash;a mouse on the end of a bit of wire, in effect; and not sailing
-through the accommodating air, but encountering grass and sand and stuff
-at every jump. It looks wholly impossible; but Mr. Brough Smyth saw the
-feat and did the measuring, and set down the facts in his book about
-aboriginal life, which he wrote by command of the Victorian Government.
-
-<p>What is the secret of the feat? No one explains. It cannot be physical
-strength, for that could not drive such a feather-weight any distance.
-It must be art. But no one explains what the art of it is; nor how it
-gets around that law of nature which says you shall not throw any
-two-ounce thing 220 yards, either through the air or bumping along the
-ground. Rev. J. G. Woods says:
-
-<p>"The distance to which the weet-weet or kangaroo-rat can be thrown is
-truly astonishing. I have seen an Australian stand at one side of
-Kennington Oval and throw the kangaroo rat completely across it." (Width
-of Kennington Oval not stated.) "It darts through the air with the sharp
-and menacing hiss of a rifle-ball, its greatest height from the ground
-being some seven or eight feet . . . . . . When properly thrown it
-looks just like a living animal leaping along . . . . . . Its
-movements have a wonderful resemblance to the long leaps of a
-kangaroo-rat fleeing in alarm, with its long tail trailing behind it."
-
-<p>The Old Settler said that he had seen distances made by the weet-weet, in
-the early days, which almost convinced him that it was as extraordinary
-an instrument as the boomerang.
-
-<p>There must have been a large distribution of acuteness among those naked
-skinny aboriginals, or they couldn't have been such unapproachable
-trackers and boomerangers and weet-weeters. It must have been
-race-aversion that put upon them a good deal of the low-rate intellectual
-reputation which they bear and have borne this long time in the world's
-estimate of them.
-
-<p>They were lazy&mdash;always lazy. Perhaps that was their trouble. It is a
-killing defect. Surely they could have invented and built a competent
-house, but they didn't. And they could have invented and developed the
-agricultural arts, but they didn't. They went naked and houseless, and
-lived on fish and grubs and worms and wild fruits, and were just plain
-savages, for all their smartness.
-
-<p>With a country as big as the United States to live and multiply in, and
-with no epidemic diseases among them till the white man came with those
-and his other appliances of civilization, it is quite probable that there
-was never a day in his history when he could muster 100,000 of his race
-in all Australia. He diligently and deliberately kept population down by
-infanticide&mdash;largely; but mainly by certain other methods. He did not
-need to practise these artificialities any more after the white man came.
-The white man knew ways of keeping down population which were worth
-several of his. The white man knew ways of reducing a native population
-80 percent. in 20 years. The native had never seen anything as fine as
-that before.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p208.jpg (42K)" src="images/p208.jpg" height="580" width="624">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>For example, there is the case of the country now called Victoria&mdash;a
-country eighty times as large as Rhode Island, as I have already said.
-By the best official guess there were 4,500 aboriginals in it when the
-whites came along in the middle of the 'Thirties. Of these, 1,000 lived
-in Gippsland, a patch of territory the size of fifteen or sixteen Rhode
-Islands: they did not diminish as fast as some of the other communities;
-indeed, at the end of forty years there were still 200 of them left. The
-Geelong tribe diminished more satisfactorily: from 173 persons it faded
-to 34 in twenty years; at the end of another twenty the tribe numbered
-one person altogether. The two Melbourne tribes could muster almost 300
-when the white man came; they could muster but twenty, thirty-seven years
-later, in 1875. In that year there were still odds and ends of tribes
-scattered about the colony of Victoria, but I was told that natives of
-full blood are very scarce now. It is said that the aboriginals continue
-in some force in the huge territory called Queensland.
-
-<p>The early whites were not used to savages. They could not understand the
-primary law of savage life: that if a man do you a wrong, his whole tribe
-is responsible&mdash;each individual of it&mdash;and you may take your change out
-of any individual of it, without bothering to seek out the guilty one.
-When a white killed an aboriginal, the tribe applied the ancient law, and
-killed the first white they came across. To the whites this was a
-monstrous thing. Extermination seemed to be the proper medicine for such
-creatures as this. They did not kill all the blacks, but they promptly
-killed enough of them to make their own persons safe. From the dawn of
-civilization down to this day the white man has always used that very
-precaution. Mrs. Campbell Praed lived in Queensland, as a child, in the
-early days, and in her "Sketches of Australian life," we get informing
-pictures of the early struggles of the white and the black to reform each
-other.
-
-<p>Speaking of pioneer days in the mighty wilderness of Queensland, Mrs.
-Praed says:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "At first the natives retreated before the whites; and, except that
- they every now and then speared a beast in one of the herds, gave
- little cause for uneasiness. But, as the number of squatters
- increased, each one taking up miles of country and bringing two or
- three men in his train, so that shepherds' huts and stockmen's camps
- lay far apart, and defenseless in the midst of hostile tribes, the
- Blacks' depredations became more frequent and murder was no unusual
- event.
-
-<p> "The loneliness of the Australian bush can hardly be painted in
- words. Here extends mile after mile of primeval forest where
- perhaps foot of white man has never trod&mdash;interminable vistas where
- the eucalyptus trees rear their lofty trunks and spread forth their
- lanky limbs, from which the red gum oozes and hangs in fantastic
- pendants like crimson stalactites; ravines along the sides of which
- the long-bladed grass grows rankly; level untimbered plains
- alternating with undulating tracts of pasture, here and there broken
- by a stony ridge, steep gully, or dried-up creek. All wild, vast
- and desolate; all the same monotonous gray coloring, except where
- the wattle, when in blossom, shows patches of feathery gold, or a
- belt of scrub lies green, glossy, and impenetrable as Indian jungle.
-
-<p> "The solitude seems intensified by the strange sounds of reptiles,
- birds, and insects, and by the absence of larger creatures; of which
- in the day-time, the only audible signs are the stampede of a herd
- of kangaroo, or the rustle of a wallabi, or a dingo stirring the
- grass as it creeps to its lair. But there are the whirring of
- locusts, the demoniac chuckle of the laughing jack-ass, the
- screeching of cockatoos and parrots, the hissing of the frilled
- lizard, and the buzzing of innumerable insects hidden under the
- dense undergrowth. And then at night, the melancholy wailing of the
- curlews, the dismal howling of dingoes, the discordant croaking of
- tree-frogs, might well shake the nerves of the solitary watcher."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>That is the theater for the drama. When you comprehend one or two other
-details, you will perceive how well suited for trouble it was, and how
-loudly it invited it. The cattlemen's stations were scattered over that
-profound wilderness miles and miles apart&mdash;at each station half a dozen
-persons. There was a plenty of cattle, the black natives were always
-ill-nourished and hungry. The land belonged to them. The whites had not
-bought it, and couldn't buy it; for the tribes had no chiefs, nobody in
-authority, nobody competent to sell and convey; and the tribes themselves
-had no comprehension of the idea of transferable ownership of land. The
-ousted owners were despised by the white interlopers, and this opinion
-was not hidden under a bushel. More promising materials for a tragedy
-could not have been collated. Let Mrs. Praed speak:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "At Nie Nie station, one dark night, the unsuspecting hut-keeper,
- having, as he believed, secured himself against assault, was lying
- wrapped in his blankets sleeping profoundly. The Blacks crept
- stealthily down the chimney and battered in his skull while he
- slept."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>One could guess the whole drama from that little text. The curtain was
-up. It would not fall until the mastership of one party or the other was
-determined&mdash;and permanently:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "There was treachery on both sides. The Blacks killed the Whites
- when they found them defenseless, and the Whites slew the Blacks in
- a wholesale and promiscuous fashion which offended against my
- childish sense of justice.
-
-<p> "They were regarded as little above the level of brutes, and in some
- cases were destroyed like vermin.
-
-<p> "Here is an instance. A squatter, whose station was surrounded by
- Blacks, whom he suspected to be hostile and from whom he feared an
- attack, parleyed with them from his house-door. He told them it was
- Christmas-time&mdash;a time at which all men, black or white, feasted;
- that there were flour, sugar-plums, good things in plenty in the
- store, and that he would make for them such a pudding as they had
- never dreamed of&mdash;a great pudding of which all might eat and be
- filled. The Blacks listened and were lost. The pudding was made
- and distributed. Next morning there was howling in the camp, for it
- had been sweetened with sugar and arsenic!"
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p211.jpg (85K)" src="images/p211.jpg" height="1083" width="645">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>The white man's spirit was right, but his method was wrong. His spirit
-was the spirit which the civilized white has always exhibited toward the
-savage, but the use of poison was a departure from custom. True, it was
-merely a technical departure, not a real one; still, it was a departure,
-and therefore a mistake, in my opinion. It was better, kinder, swifter,
-and much more humane than a number of the methods which have been
-sanctified by custom, but that does not justify its employment. That is,
-it does not wholly justify it. Its unusual nature makes it stand out and
-attract an amount of attention which it is not entitled to. It takes
-hold upon morbid imaginations and they work it up into a sort of
-exhibition of cruelty, and this smirches the good name of our
-civilization, whereas one of the old harsher methods would have had no
-such effect because usage has made those methods familiar to us and
-innocent. In many countries we have chained the savage and starved him
-to death; and this we do not care for, because custom has inured us to
-it; yet a quick death by poison is loving kindness to it. In many
-countries we have burned the savage at the stake; and this we do not care
-for, because custom has inured us to it; yet a quick death is
-loving kindness to it. In more than one country we have hunted the savage and
-his little children and their mother with dogs and guns through the woods
-and swamps for an afternoon's sport, and filled the region with happy
-laughter over their sprawling and stumbling flight, and their wild
-supplications for mercy; but this method we do not mind, because custom
-has inured us to it; yet a quick death by poison is loving kindness to
-it. In many countries we have taken the savage's land from him, and made
-him our slave, and lashed him every day, and broken his pride, and made
-death his only friend, and overworked him till he dropped in his tracks;
-and this we do not care for, because custom has inured us to it; yet a
-quick death by poison is loving kindness to it. In the Matabeleland
-today&mdash;why, there we are confining ourselves to sanctified custom, we
-Rhodes-Beit millionaires in South Africa and Dukes in London; and nobody
-cares, because we are used to the old holy customs, and all we ask is
-that no notice&mdash;inviting new ones shall be intruded upon the attention of
-our comfortable consciences. Mrs. Praed says of the poisoner, "That
-squatter deserves to have his name handed down to the contempt of
-posterity."
-
-<p>I am sorry to hear her say that. I myself blame him for one thing, and
-severely, but I stop there. I blame him for, the indiscretion of
-introducing a novelty which was calculated to attract attention to our
-civilization. There was no occasion to do that. It was his duty, and it
-is every loyal man's duty to protect that heritage in every way he can;
-and the best way to do that is to attract attention elsewhere. The
-squatter's judgment was bad&mdash;that is plain; but his heart was right. He
-is almost the only pioneering representative of civilization in history
-who has risen above the prejudices of his caste and his heredity and
-tried to introduce the element of mercy into the superior race's dealings
-with the savage. His name is lost, and it is a pity; for it deserves to
-be handed down to posterity with homage and reverence.
-
-<p>This paragraph is from a London journal:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "To learn what France is doing to spread the blessings of
- civilization in her distant dependencies we may turn with advantage
- to New Caledonia. With a view to attracting free settlers to that
- penal colony, M. Feillet, the Governor, forcibly expropriated the
- Kanaka cultivators from the best of their plantations, with a
- derisory compensation, in spite of the protests of the Council
- General of the island. Such immigrants as could be induced to cross
- the seas thus found themselves in possession of thousands of coffee,
- cocoa, banana, and bread-fruit trees, the raising of which had cost
- the wretched natives years of toil whilst the latter had a few
- five-franc pieces to spend in the liquor stores of Noumea."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>You observe the combination? It is robbery, humiliation, and slow, slow
-murder, through poverty and the white man's whisky. The savage's gentle
-friend, the savage's noble friend, the only magnanimous and unselfish
-friend the savage has ever had, was not there with the merciful swift
-release of his poisoned pudding.
-
-<p>There are many humorous things in the world; among them the white man's
-notion that he is less savage than the other savages.&mdash;[See Chapter on
-Tasmania, post.]
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch22"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXII.</h2>
-
-<p><i>Nothing is so ignorant as a man's left hand, except a lady's watch.</i>
-
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>You notice that Mrs. Praed knows her art. She can place a thing before
-you so that you can see it. She is not alone in that. Australia is
-fertile in writers whose books are faithful mirrors of the life of the
-country and of its history. The materials were surprisingly rich, both
-in quality and in mass, and Marcus Clarke, Raolph Boldrewood, Gordon,
-Kendall, and the others, have built out of them a brilliant and vigorous
-literature, and one which must endure. Materials&mdash;there is no end to
-them! Why, a literature might be made out of the aboriginal all by
-himself, his character and ways are so freckled with varieties&mdash;varieties
-not staled by familiarity, but new to us. You do not need to invent any
-picturesquenesses; whatever you want in that line he can furnish you; and
-they will not be fancies and doubtful, but realities and authentic. In
-his history, as preserved by the white man's official records, he is
-everything&mdash;everything that a human creature can be. He covers the
-entire ground. He is a coward&mdash;there are a thousand fact to prove it.
-He is brave&mdash;there are a thousand facts to prove it. He is
-treacherous&mdash;oh, beyond imagination! he is faithful, loyal, true&mdash;the white man's
-records supply you with a harvest of instances of it that are noble,
-worshipful, and pathetically beautiful. He kills the starving stranger
-who comes begging for food and shelter there is proof of it. He succors,
-and feeds, and guides to safety, to-day, the lost stranger who fired on
-him only yesterday&mdash;there is proof of it. He takes his reluctant bride
-by force, he courts her with a club, then loves her faithfully through a
-long life&mdash;it is of record. He gathers to himself another wife by the
-same processes, beats and bangs her as a daily diversion, and by and by
-lays down his life in defending her from some outside harm&mdash;it is of
-record. He will face a hundred hostiles to rescue one of his children,
-and will kill another of his children because the family is large enough
-without it. His delicate stomach turns, at certain details of the white
-man's food; but he likes over-ripe fish, and brazed dog, and cat, and
-rat, and will eat his own uncle with relish. He is a sociable animal,
-yet he turns aside and hides behind his shield when his mother-in-law
-goes by. He is childishly afraid of ghosts and other trivialities that
-menace his soul, but dread of physical pain is a weakness which he is not
-acquainted with. He knows all the great and many of the little
-constellations, and has names for them; he has a symbol-writing by means
-of which he can convey messages far and wide among the tribes; he has a
-correct eye for form and expression, and draws a good picture; he can
-track a fugitive by delicate traces which the white man's eye cannot
-discern, and by methods which the finest white intelligence cannot
-master; he makes a missile which science itself cannot duplicate without
-the model&mdash;if with it; a missile whose secret baffled and defeated the
-searchings and theorizings of the white mathematicians for seventy years;
-and by an art all his own he performs miracles with it which the white
-man cannot approach untaught, nor parallel after teaching. Within
-certain limits this savage's intellect is the alertest and the brightest
-known to history or tradition; and yet the poor creature was never able
-to invent a counting system that would reach above five, nor a vessel
-that he could boil water in. He is the prize-curiosity of all the races.
-To all intents and purposes he is dead&mdash;in the body; but he has features
-that will live in literature.
-
-<p>Mr. Philip Chauncy, an officer of the Victorian Government, contributed
-to its archives a report of his personal observations of the aboriginals
-which has in it some things which I wish to condense slightly and insert
-here. He speaks of the quickness of their eyes and the accuracy of their
-judgment of the direction of approaching missiles as being quite
-extraordinary, and of the answering suppleness and accuracy of limb and
-muscle in avoiding the missile as being extraordinary also. He has seen
-an aboriginal stand as a target for cricket-balls thrown with great force
-ten or fifteen yards, by professional bowlers, and successfully dodge
-them or parry them with his shield during about half an hour. One of
-those balls, properly placed, could have killed him; "Yet he depended,
-with the utmost self-possession, on the quickness of his eye and his
-agility."
-
-<p>The shield was the customary war-shield of his race, and would not be a
-protection to you or to me. It is no broader than a stovepipe, and is
-about as long as a man's arm. The opposing surface is not flat, but
-slopes away from the centerline like a boat's bow. The difficulty about
-a cricket-ball that has been thrown with a scientific "twist" is, that it
-suddenly changes its course when it is close to its target and comes
-straight for the mark when apparently it was going overhead or to one
-side. I should not be able to protect myself from such balls for
-half-an-hour, or less.
-
-<p>Mr. Chauncy once saw "a little native man" throw a cricket-ball 119
-yards. This is said to beat the English professional record by thirteen
-yards.
-
-<p>We have all seen the circus-man bound into the air from a spring-board
-and make a somersault over eight horses standing side by side. Mr.
-Chauncy saw an aboriginal do it over eleven; and was assured that he had
-sometimes done it over fourteen. But what is that to this:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "I saw the same man leap from the ground, and in going over he
- dipped his head, unaided by his hands, into a hat placed in an
- inverted position on the top of the head of another man sitting
- upright on horseback&mdash;both man and horse being of the average size.
- The native landed on the other side of the horse with the hat fairly
- on his head. The prodigious height of the leap, and the precision
- with which it was taken so as to enable him to dip his head into the
- hat, exceeded any feat of the kind I have ever beheld."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>I should think so! On board a ship lately I saw a young Oxford athlete
-run four steps and spring into the air and squirm his hips by a
-side-twist over a bar that was five and one-half feet high; but he could not
-have stood still and cleared a bar that was four feet high. I know this,
-because I tried it myself.
-
-<p>One can see now where the kangaroo learned its art.
-
-<p>Sir George Grey and Mr. Eyre testify that the natives dug wells fourteen
-or fifteen feet deep and two feet in diameter at the bore&mdash;dug them in
-the sand&mdash;wells that were "quite circular, carried straight down, and the
-work beautifully executed."
-
-<p>Their tools were their hands and feet. How did they throw sand out from
-such a depth? How could they stoop down and get it, with only two feet
-of space to stoop in? How did they keep that sand-pipe from caving in
-on them? I do not know. Still, they did manage those seeming
-impossibilities. Swallowed the sand, may be.
-
-<p>Mr. Chauncy speaks highly of the patience and skill and alert
-intelligence of the native huntsman when he is stalking the emu, the
-kangaroo, and other game:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "As he walks through the bush his step is light, elastic, and
- noiseless; every track on the earth catches his keen eye; a leaf, or
- fragment of a stick turned, or a blade of grass recently bent by the
- tread of one of the lower animals, instantly arrests his attention;
- in fact, nothing escapes his quick and powerful sight on the ground,
- in the trees, or in the distance, which may supply him with a meal
- or warn him of danger. A little examination of the trunk of a tree
- which may be nearly covered with the scratches of opossums ascending
- and descending is sufficient to inform him whether one went up the
- night before without coming down again or not."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p218.jpg (48K)" src="images/p218.jpg" height="629" width="618">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>Fennimore Cooper lost his chance. He would have known how to value these
-people. He wouldn't have traded the dullest of them for the brightest
-Mohawk he ever invented.
-
-<p>All savages draw outline pictures upon bark; but the resemblances are not
-close, and expression is usually lacking. But the Australian
-aboriginal's pictures of animals were nicely accurate in form, attitude,
-carriage; and he put spirit into them, and expression. And his pictures
-of white people and natives were pretty nearly as good as his pictures of
-the other animals. He dressed his whites in the fashion of their day,
-both the ladies and the gentlemen. As an untaught wielder of the pencil
-it is not likely that he has his equal among savage people.
-
-<p>His place in art&mdash;as to drawing, not color-work&mdash;is well up, all things
-considered. His art is not to be classified with savage art at all, but
-on a plane two degrees above it and one degree above the lowest plane of
-civilized art. To be exact, his place in art is between Botticelli and
-De Maurier. That is to say, he could not draw as well as De Maurier but
-better than Boticelli. In feeling, he resembles both; also in grouping
-and in his preferences in the matter of subjects. His "corrobboree" of
-the Australian wilds reappears in De Maurier's Belgravian ballrooms, with
-clothes and the smirk of civilization added; Botticelli's "Spring" is the
-"corrobboree" further idealized, but with fewer clothes and more smirk.
-And well enough as to intention, but&mdash;my word!
-
-<p>The aboriginal can make a fire by friction. I have tried that.
-
-<p>All savages are able to stand a good deal of physical pain. The
-Australian aboriginal has this quality in a well-developed degree. Do
-not read the following instances if horrors are not pleasant to you.
-They were recorded by the Rev. Henry N. Wolloston, of Melbourne, who had
-been a surgeon before he became a clergyman:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> 1. "In the summer of 1852 I started on horseback from Albany, King
- George's Sound, to visit at Cape Riche, accompanied by a native on
- foot. We traveled about forty miles the first day, then camped by a
- water-hole for the night. After cooking and eating our supper, I
- observed the native, who had said nothing to me on the subject,
- collect the hot embers of the fire together, and deliberately place
- his right foot in the glowing mass for a moment, then suddenly
- withdraw it, stamping on the ground and uttering a long-drawn
- guttural sound of mingled pain and satisfaction. This operation he
- repeated several times. On my inquiring the meaning of his strange
- conduct, he only said, 'Me carpenter-make 'em' ('I am mending my
- foot'), and then showed me his charred great toe, the nail of which
- had been torn off by a tea-tree stump, in which it had been caught
- during the journey, and the pain of which he had borne with stoical
- composure until the evening, when he had an opportunity of
- cauterizing the wound in the primitive manner above described."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>And he proceeded on the journey the next day, "as if nothing had
-happened"&mdash;and walked thirty miles. It was a strange idea, to keep a
-surgeon and then do his own surgery.
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> 2. "A native about twenty-five years of age once applied to me, as
- a doctor, to extract the wooden barb of a spear, which, during a
- fight in the bush some four months previously, had entered his
- chest, just missing the heart, and penetrated the viscera to a
- considerable depth. The spear had been cut off, leaving the barb
- behind, which continued to force its way by muscular action
- gradually toward the back; and when I examined him I could feel a
- hard substance between the ribs below the left blade-bone. I made a
- deep incision, and with a pair of forceps extracted the barb, which
- was made, as usual, of hard wood about four inches long and from
- half an inch to an inch thick. It was very smooth, and partly
- digested, so to speak, by the maceration to which it had been
- exposed during its four months' journey through the body. The wound
- made by the spear had long since healed, leaving only a small
- cicatrix; and after the operation, which the native bore without
- flinching, he appeared to suffer no pain. Indeed, judging from his
- good state of health, the presence of the foreign matter did not
- materially annoy him. He was perfectly well in a few days."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>But No. 3 is my favorite. Whenever I read it I seem to enjoy all that
-the patient enjoyed&mdash;whatever it was:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> 3. "Once at King George's Sound a native presented himself to me
- with one leg only, and requested me to supply him with a wooden leg.
- He had traveled in this maimed state about ninety-six miles, for
- this purpose. I examined the limb, which had been severed just
- below the knee, and found that it had been charred by fire, while
- about two inches of the partially calcined bone protruded through
- the flesh. I at once removed this with the saw; and having made as
- presentable a stump of it as I could, covered the amputated end of
- the bone with a surrounding of muscle, and kept the patient a few
- days under my care to allow the wound to heal. On inquiring, the
- native told me that in a fight with other black-fellows a spear had
- struck his leg and penetrated the bone below the knee. Finding it
- was serious, he had recourse to the following crude and barbarous
- operation, which it appears is not uncommon among these people in
- their native state. He made a fire, and dug a hole in the earth
- only sufficiently large to admit his leg, and deep enough to allow
- the wounded part to be on a level with the surface of the ground.
- He then surrounded the limb with the live coals or charcoal, which
- was replenished until the leg was literally burnt off. The
- cauterization thus applied completely checked the hemorrhage, and he
- was able in a day or two to hobble down to the Sound, with the aid
- of a long stout stick, although he was more than a week on the
- road."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p220.jpg (64K)" src="images/p220.jpg" height="859" width="621">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>But he was a fastidious native. He soon discarded the wooden leg made
-for him by the doctor, because "it had no feeling in it." It must have
-had as much as the one he burnt off, I should think.
-
-<p>So much for the Aboriginals. It is difficult for me to let them alone.
-They are marvelously interesting creatures. For a quarter of a century,
-now, the several colonial governments have housed their remnants in
-comfortable stations, and fed them well and taken good care of them in
-every way. If I had found this out while I was in Australia I could have
-seen some of those people&mdash;but I didn't. I would walk thirty miles to
-see a stuffed one.
-
-<p>Australia has a slang of its own. This is a matter of course. The vast
-cattle and sheep industries, the strange aspects of the country, and the
-strange native animals, brute and human, are matters which would
-naturally breed a local slang. I have notes of this slang somewhere, but
-at the moment I can call to mind only a few of the words and phrases.
-They are expressive ones. The wide, sterile, unpeopled deserts have
-created eloquent phrases like "No Man's Land" and the "Never-never
-Country." Also this felicitous form: "She lives in the Never-never
-Country"&mdash;that is, she is an old maid. And this one is not without
-merit: "heifer-paddock"&mdash;young ladies' seminary. "Bail up" and "stick
-up" equivalent of our highwayman-term to "hold up" a stage-coach or a
-train. "New-chum" is the equivalent of our "tenderfoot"&mdash;new arrival.
-
-<p>And then there is the immortal "My word!" We must import it. "M-y word!"
-In cold print it is the equivalent of our "Ger-rreat Caesar!" but spoken
-with the proper Australian unction and fervency, it is worth six of it
-for grace and charm and expressiveness. Our form is rude and explosive;
-it is not suited to the drawing-room or the heifer-paddock; but "M-y
-word!" is, and is music to the ear, too, when the utterer knows how to
-say it. I saw it in print several times on the Pacific Ocean, but it
-struck me coldly, it aroused no sympathy. That was because it was the
-dead corpse of the thing, the soul was not there&mdash;the tones were
-lacking&mdash;the informing spirit&mdash;the deep feeling&mdash;the eloquence. But the
-first time I heard an Australian say it, it was positively thrilling.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p222.jpg (13K)" src="images/p222.jpg" height="329" width="489">
-</center>
-
-
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch23"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXIII.</h2>
-
-<p><i>Be careless in your dress if you must, but keep a tidy soul.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>We left Adelaide in due course, and went to Horsham, in the colony of
-Victoria; a good deal of a journey, if I remember rightly, but pleasant.
-Horsham sits in a plain which is as level as a floor&mdash;one of those famous
-dead levels which Australian books describe so often; gray, bare, sombre,
-melancholy, baked, cracked, in the tedious long drouths, but a
-horizonless ocean of vivid green grass the day after a rain. A country
-town, peaceful, reposeful, inviting, full of snug homes, with garden
-plots, and plenty of shrubbery and flowers.
-
-<p>"Horsham, October 17.
-At the hotel. The weather divine. Across the way, in front of the
-London Bank of Australia, is a very handsome cottonwood. It is in
-opulent leaf, and every leaf perfect. The full power of the on-rushing
-spring is upon it, and I imagine I can see it grow. Alongside the bank
-and a little way back in the garden there is a row of soaring
-fountain-sprays of delicate feathery foliage quivering in the breeze, and mottled
-with flashes of light that shift and play through the mass like
-flash-lights through an opal&mdash;a most beautiful tree, and a striking contrast to
-the cottonwood. Every leaf of the cottonwood is distinctly defined&mdash;it
-is a kodak for faithful, hard, unsentimental detail; the other an
-impressionist picture, delicious to look upon, full of a subtle and
-exquisite charm, but all details fused in a swoon of vague and soft
-loveliness."
-
-<p>It turned out, upon inquiry, to be a pepper tree&mdash;an importation from
-China. It has a silky sheen, soft and rich. I saw some that had long
-red bunches of currant-like berries ambushed among the foliage. At a
-distance, in certain lights, they give the tree a pinkish tint and a new
-charm.
-
-<p>There is an agricultural college eight miles from Horsham. We were
-driven out to it by its chief. The conveyance was an open wagon; the
-time, noonday; no wind; the sky without a cloud, the sunshine
-brilliant&mdash;and the mercury at 92 deg. in the shade. In some countries an indolent
-unsheltered drive of an hour and a half under such conditions would have
-been a sweltering and prostrating experience; but there was nothing of
-that in this case. It is a climate that is perfect. There was no sense
-of heat; indeed, there was no heat; the air was fine and pure and
-exhilarating; if the drive had lasted half a day I think we should not
-have felt any discomfort, or grown silent or droopy or tired. Of course,
-the secret of it was the exceeding dryness of the atmosphere. In that
-plain 112 deg. in the shade is without doubt no harder upon a man than is
-88 or 90 deg. in New York.
-
-<p>The road lay through the middle of an empty space which seemed to me to
-be a hundred yards wide between the fences. I was not given the width in
-yards, but only in chains and perches&mdash;and furlongs, I think. I would
-have given a good deal to know what the width was, but I did not pursue
-the matter. I think it is best to put up with information the way you
-get it; and seem satisfied with it, and surprised at it, and grateful for
-it, and say, "My word!" and never let on. It was a wide space; I could
-tell you how wide, in chains and perches and furlongs and things, but
-that would not help you any. Those things sound well, but they are
-shadowy and indefinite, like troy weight and avoirdupois; nobody knows
-what they mean. When you buy a pound of a drug and the man asks you
-which you want, troy or avoirdupois, it is best to say "Yes," and shift
-the subject.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p224.jpg (9K)" src="images/p224.jpg" height="481" width="260">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>They said that the wide space dates from the earliest sheep and
-cattle-raising days. People had to drive their stock long distances&mdash;immense
-journeys&mdash;from worn-out places to new ones where were water and fresh
-pasturage; and this wide space had to be left in grass and unfenced, or
-the stock would have starved to death in the transit.
-
-<p>On the way we saw the usual birds&mdash;the beautiful little green parrots,
-the magpie, and some others; and also the slender native bird of modest
-plumage and the eternally-forgettable name&mdash;the bird that is the smartest
-among birds, and can give a parrot 30 to 1 in the game and then talk him
-to death. I cannot recall that bird's name. I think it begins with M.
-I wish it began with G. or something that a person can remember.
-
-<p>The magpie was out in great force, in the fields and on the fences. He
-is a handsome large creature, with snowy white decorations, and is a
-singer; he has a murmurous rich note that is lovely. He was once modest,
-even diffident; but he lost all that when he found out that he was
-Australia's sole musical bird. He has talent, and cuteness, and
-impudence; and in his tame state he is a most satisfactory pet&mdash;never
-coming when he is called, always coming when he isn't, and studying
-disobedience as an accomplishment. He is not confined, but loafs all
-over the house and grounds, like the laughing jackass. I think he learns
-to talk, I know he learns to sing tunes, and his friends say that he
-knows how to steal without learning. I was acquainted with a tame magpie
-in Melbourne. He had lived in a lady's house several years, and believed
-he owned it. The lady had tamed him, and in return he had tamed the
-lady. He was always on deck when not wanted, always having his own way,
-always tyrannizing over the dog, and always making the cat's life a slow
-sorrow and a martyrdom. He knew a number of tunes and could sing them in
-perfect time and tune; and would do it, too, at any time that silence was
-wanted; and then encore himself and do it again; but if he was asked to
-sing he would go out and take a walk.
-
-<p>It was long believed that fruit trees would not grow in that baked and
-waterless plain around Horsham, but the agricultural college has
-dissipated that idea. Its ample nurseries were producing oranges,
-apricots, lemons, almonds, peaches, cherries, 48 varieties of apples&mdash;in
-fact, all manner of fruits, and in abundance. The trees did not seem to
-miss the water; they were in vigorous and flourishing condition.
-
-<p>Experiments are made with different soils, to see what things thrive best
-in them and what climates are best for them. A man who is ignorantly
-trying to produce upon his farm things not suited to its soil and its
-other conditions can make a journey to the college from anywhere in
-Australia, and go back with a change of scheme which will make his farm
-productive and profitable.
-
-<p>There were forty pupils there&mdash;a few of them farmers, relearning their
-trade, the rest young men mainly from the cities&mdash;novices. It seemed a
-strange thing that an agricultural college should have an attraction for
-city-bred youths, but such is the fact. They are good stuff, too; they
-are above the agricultural average of intelligence, and they come without
-any inherited prejudices in favor of hoary ignorances made sacred by long
-descent.
-
-<p>The students work all day in the fields, the nurseries, and the
-shearing-sheds, learning and doing all the practical work of the business&mdash;three
-days in a week. On the other three they study and hear lectures. They
-are taught the beginnings of such sciences as bear upon agriculture&mdash;like
-chemistry, for instance. We saw the sophomore class in sheep-shearing
-shear a dozen sheep. They did it by hand, not with the machine. The
-sheep was seized and flung down on his side and held there; and the
-students took off his coat with great celerity and adroitness. Sometimes
-they clipped off a sample of the sheep, but that is customary with
-shearers, and they don't mind it; they don't even mind it as much as the
-sheep. They dab a splotch of sheep-dip on the place and go right ahead.
-
-<p>The coat of wool was unbelievably thick. Before the shearing the sheep
-looked like the fat woman in the circus; after it he looked like a bench.
-He was clipped to the skin; and smoothly and uniformly. The fleece comes
-from him all in one piece and has the spread of a blanket.
-
-<p>The college was flying the Australian flag&mdash;the gridiron of England
-smuggled up in the northwest corner of a big red field that had the
-random stars of the Southern Cross wandering around over it.
-
-<p>From Horsham we went to Stawell. By rail. Still in the colony of
-Victoria. Stawell is in the gold-mining country. In the bank-safe was
-half a peck of surface-gold&mdash;gold dust, grain gold; rich; pure in fact,
-and pleasant to sift through one's fingers; and would be pleasanter if it
-would stick. And there were a couple of gold bricks, very heavy to
-handle, and worth $7,500 a piece. They were from a very valuable quartz
-mine; a lady owns two-thirds of it; she has an income of $75,000 a month
-from it, and is able to keep house.
-
-<p>The Stawell region is not productive of gold only; it has great
-vineyards, and produces exceptionally fine wines. One of these
-vineyards&mdash;the Great Western, owned by Mr. Irving&mdash;is regarded as a
-model. Its product has reputation abroad. It yields a choice champagne
-and a fine claret, and its hock took a prize in France two or three years
-ago. The champagne is kept in a maze of passages under ground, cut in
-the rock, to secure it an even temperature during the three-year term
-required to perfect it. In those vaults I saw 120,000 bottles of
-champagne. The colony of Victoria has a population of 1,000,000, and
-those people are said to drink 25,000,000 bottles of champagne per year.
-The dryest community on the earth. The government has lately reduced the
-duty upon foreign wines. That is one of the unkindnesses of Protection.
-A man invests years of work and a vast sum of money in a worthy
-enterprise, upon the faith of existing laws; then the law is changed, and
-the man is robbed by his own government.
-
-<p>On the way back to Stawell we had a chance to see a group of boulders
-called the Three Sisters&mdash;a curiosity oddly located; for it was upon high
-ground, with the land sloping away from it, and no height above it from
-whence the boulders could have rolled down. Relics of an early
-ice-drift, perhaps. They are noble boulders. One of them has the size and
-smoothness and plump sphericity of a balloon of the biggest pattern.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p228.jpg (23K)" src="images/p228.jpg" height="389" width="615">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>The road led through a forest of great gum-trees, lean and scraggy and
-sorrowful. The road was cream-white&mdash;a clayey kind of earth, apparently.
-Along it toiled occasional freight wagons, drawn by long double files of
-oxen. Those wagons were going a journey of two hundred miles, I was
-told, and were running a successful opposition to the railway! The
-railways are owned and run by the government.
-
-<p>Those sad gums stood up out of the dry white clay, pictures of patience
-and resignation. It is a tree that can get along without water; still it
-is fond of it&mdash;ravenously so. It is a very intelligent tree and will
-detect the presence of hidden water at a distance of fifty feet, and send
-out slender long root-fibres to prospect it. They will find it; and will
-also get at it even through a cement wall six inches thick. Once a
-cement water-pipe under ground at Stawell began to gradually reduce its
-output, and finally ceased altogether to deliver water. Upon examining
-into the matter it was found stopped up, wadded compactly with a mass of
-root-fibres, delicate and hair-like. How this stuff had gotten into the
-pipe was a puzzle for some little time; finally it was found that it had
-crept in through a crack that was almost invisible to the eye. A gum
-tree forty feet away had tapped the pipe and was drinking the water.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch24"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXIV.</h2>
-
-<p><i>There is no such thing as "the Queen's English." The property has gone
-into the hands of a joint stock company and we own the bulk of the
-shares!</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>Frequently, in Australia, one has cloud-effects of an unfamiliar sort.
-We had this kind of scenery, finely staged, all the way to Ballarat.
-Consequently we saw more sky than country on that journey. At one time a
-great stretch of the vault was densely flecked with wee ragged-edged
-flakes of painfully white cloud-stuff, all of one shape and size, and
-equidistant apart, with narrow cracks of adorable blue showing between.
-The whole was suggestive of a hurricane of snow-flakes drifting across
-the skies. By and by these flakes fused themselves together in
-interminable lines, with shady faint hollows between the lines, the long
-satin-surfaced rollers following each other in simulated movement, and
-enchantingly counterfeiting the majestic march of a flowing sea. Later,
-the sea solidified itself; then gradually broke up its mass into
-innumerable lofty white pillars of about one size, and ranged these
-across the firmament, in receding and fading perspective, in the
-similitude of a stupendous colonnade&mdash;a mirage without a doubt flung from
-the far Gates of the Hereafter.
-
-<p>The approaches to Ballarat were beautiful. The features, great green
-expanses of rolling pasture-land, bisected by eye-contenting hedges of
-commingled new-gold and old-gold gorse&mdash;and a lovely lake. One must put
-in the pause, there, to fetch the reader up with a slight jolt, and keep
-him from gliding by without noticing the lake. One must notice it; for a
-lovely lake is not as common a thing along the railways of Australia as
-are the dry places. Ninety-two in the shade again, but balmy and
-comfortable, fresh and bracing. A perfect climate.
-
-<p>Forty-five years ago the site now occupied by the City of Ballarat was a
-sylvan solitude as quiet as Eden and as lovely. Nobody had ever heard of
-it. On the 25th of August, 1851, the first great gold-strike made in
-Australia was made here. The wandering prospectors who made it scraped
-up two pounds and a half of gold the first day-worth $600. A few days
-later the place was a hive&mdash;a town. The news of the strike spread
-everywhere in a sort of instantaneous way&mdash;spread like a flash to the
-very ends of the earth. A celebrity so prompt and so universal has
-hardly been paralleled in history, perhaps. It was as if the name
-BALLARAT had suddenly been written on the sky, where all the world could
-read it at once.
-
-<p>The smaller discoveries made in the colony of New South Wales three
-months before had already started emigrants toward Australia; they had
-been coming as a stream, but they came as a flood, now. A hundred
-thousand people poured into Melbourne from England and other countries in
-a single month, and flocked away to the mines. The crews of the ships
-that brought them flocked with them; the clerks in the government offices
-followed; so did the cooks, the maids, the coachmen, the butlers, and the
-other domestic servants; so did the carpenters, the smiths, the plumbers,
-the painters, the reporters, the editors, the lawyers, the clients, the
-barkeepers, the bummers, the blacklegs, the thieves, the loose women, the
-grocers, the butchers, the bakers, the doctors, the druggists, the
-nurses; so did the police; even officials of high and hitherto envied
-place threw up their positions and joined the procession. This roaring
-avalanche swept out of Melbourne and left it desolate, Sunday-like,
-paralyzed, everything at a stand-still, the ships lying idle at anchor,
-all signs of life departed, all sounds stilled save the rasping of the
-cloud-shadows as they scraped across the vacant streets.
-
-<p>That grassy and leafy paradise at Ballarat was soon ripped open, and
-lacerated and scarified and gutted, in the feverish search for its hidden
-riches. There is nothing like surface-mining to snatch the graces and
-beauties and benignities out of a paradise, and make an odious and
-repulsive spectacle of it.
-
-<p>What fortunes were made! Immigrants got rich while the ship unloaded and
-reloaded&mdash;and went back home for good in the same cabin they had come out
-in! Not all of them. Only some. I saw the others in Ballarat myself,
-forty-five years later&mdash;what were left of them by time and death and the
-disposition to rove. They were young and gay, then; they are patriarchal
-and grave, now; and they do not get excited any more. They talk of the
-Past. They live in it. Their life is a dream, a retrospection.
-
-<p>Ballarat was a great region for "nuggets." No such nuggets were found in
-California as Ballarat produced. In fact, the Ballarat region has
-yielded the largest ones known to history. Two of them weighed about 180
-pounds each, and together were worth $90,000. They were offered to any
-poor person who would shoulder them and carry them away. Gold was so
-plentiful that it made people liberal like that.
-
-<p>Ballarat was a swarming city of tents in the early days. Everybody was
-happy, for a time, and apparently prosperous. Then came trouble. The
-government swooped down with a mining tax. And in its worst form, too;
-for it was not a tax upon what the miner had taken out, but upon what he
-was going to take out&mdash;if he could find it. It was a license-tax&mdash;license
-to work his claim&mdash;and it had to be paid before he could begin digging.
-
-<p>Consider the situation. No business is so uncertain as surface-mining.
-Your claim may be good, and it may be worthless. It may make you well
-off in a month; and then again you may have to dig and slave for half a
-year, at heavy expense, only to find out at last that the gold is not
-there in cost-paying quantity, and that your time and your hard work have
-been thrown away. It might be wise policy to advance the miner a monthly
-sum to encourage him to develop the country's riches; but to tax him
-monthly in advance instead&mdash;why, such a thing was never dreamed of in
-America. There, neither the claim itself nor its products, howsoever
-rich or poor, were taxed.
-
-<p>The Ballarat miners protested, petitioned, complained&mdash;it was of no use;
-the government held its ground, and went on collecting the tax. And not
-by pleasant methods, but by ways which must have been very galling to
-free people. The rumblings of a coming storm began to be audible.
-
-<p>By and by there was a result; and I think it may be called the finest
-thing in Australasian history. It was a revolution&mdash;small in size; but
-great politically; it was a strike for liberty, a struggle for a
-principle, a stand against injustice and oppression. It was the Barons
-and John, over again; it was Hampden and Ship-Money; it was Concord and
-Lexington; small beginnings, all of them, but all of them great in
-political results, all of them epoch-making. It is another instance of a
-victory won by a lost battle. It adds an honorable page to history; the
-people know it and are proud of it. They keep green the memory of the
-men who fell at the Eureka Stockade, and Peter Lalor has his monument.
-
-<p>The surface-soil of Ballarat was full of gold. This soil the miners
-ripped and tore and trenched and harried and disembowled, and made it
-yield up its immense treasure. Then they went down into the earth with
-deep shafts, seeking the gravelly beds of ancient rivers and brooks&mdash;and
-found them. They followed the courses of these streams, and gutted them,
-sending the gravel up in buckets to the upper world, and washing out of
-it its enormous deposits of gold. The next biggest of the two monster
-nuggets mentioned above came from an old river-channel 180 feet under
-ground.
-
-<p>Finally the quartz lodes were attacked. That is not poor-man's mining.
-Quartz-mining and milling require capital, and staying-power, and
-patience. Big companies were formed, and for several decades, now, the
-lodes have been successfully worked, and have yielded great wealth.
-Since the gold discovery in 1853 the Ballarat mines&mdash;taking the three
-kinds of mining together&mdash;have contributed to the world's pocket
-something over three hundred millions of dollars, which is to say that
-this nearly invisible little spot on the earth's surface has yielded
-about one-fourth as much gold in forty-four years as all California has
-yielded in forty-seven. The Californian aggregate, from 1848 to 1895,
-inclusive, as reported by the Statistician of the United States Mint, is
-$1,265,217,217.
-
-<p>A citizen told me a curious thing about those mines. With all my
-experience of mining I had never heard of anything of the sort before.
-The main gold reef runs about north and south&mdash;of course&mdash;for that is the
-custom of a rich gold reef. At Ballarat its course is between walls of
-slate. Now the citizen told me that throughout a stretch of twelve miles
-along the reef, the reef is crossed at intervals by a straight black
-streak of a carbonaceous nature&mdash;a streak in the slate; a streak no
-thicker than a pencil&mdash;and that wherever it crosses the reef you will
-certainly find gold at the junction. It is called the Indicator. Thirty
-feet on each side of the Indicator (and down in the slate, of course) is
-a still finer streak&mdash;a streak as fine as a pencil mark; and indeed, that
-is its name Pencil Mark. Whenever you find the Pencil Mark you know that
-thirty feet from it is the Indicator; you measure the distance, excavate,
-find the Indicator, trace it straight to the reef, and sink your shaft;
-your fortune is made, for certain. If that is true, it is curious. And
-it is curious anyway.
-
-<p>Ballarat is a town of only 40,000 population; and yet, since it is in
-Australia, it has every essential of an advanced and enlightened big
-city. This is pure matter of course. I must stop dwelling upon these
-things. It is hard to keep from dwelling upon them, though; for it is
-difficult to get away from the surprise of it. I will let the other
-details go, this time, but I must allow myself to mention that this
-little town has a park of 326 acres; a flower garden of 83 acres, with an
-elaborate and expensive fernery in it and some costly and unusually fine
-statuary; and an artificial lake covering 600 acres, equipped with a
-fleet of 200 shells, small sail boats, and little steam yachts.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p236.jpg (55K)" src="images/p236.jpg" height="1045" width="609">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>At this point I strike out some other praiseful things which I was
-tempted to add. I do not strike them out because they were not true or
-not well said, but because I find them better said by another man&mdash;and a
-man more competent to testify, too, because he belongs on the ground, and
-knows. I clip them from a chatty speech delivered some years ago by Mr.
-William Little, who was at that time mayor of Ballarat:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "The language of our citizens, in this as in other parts of
- Australasia, is mostly healthy Anglo-Saxon, free from Americanisms,
- vulgarisms, and the conflicting dialects of our Fatherland, and is
- pure enough to suit a Trench or a Latham. Our youth, aided by
- climatic influence, are in point of physique and comeliness
- unsurpassed in the Sunny South. Our young men are well ordered; and
- our maidens, 'not stepping over the bounds of modesty,' are as fair
- as Psyches, dispensing smiles as charming as November flowers."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>The closing clause has the seeming of a rather frosty compliment, but
-that is apparent only, not real. November is summer-time there.
-
-<p>His compliment to the local purity of the language is warranted. It is
-quite free from impurities; this is acknowledged far and wide. As in the
-German Empire all cultivated people claim to speak Hanovarian German, so
-in Australasia all cultivated people claim to speak Ballarat English.
-Even in England this cult has made considerable progress, and now that it
-is favored by the two great Universities, the time is not far away when
-Ballarat English will come into general use among the educated classes of
-Great Britain at large. Its great merit is, that it is shorter than
-ordinary English&mdash;that is, it is more compressed. At first you have some
-difficulty in understanding it when it is spoken as rapidly as the orator
-whom I have quoted speaks it. An illustration will show what I mean.
-When he called and I handed him a chair, he bowed and said:
-
-<p>"Q."
-
-<p>Presently, when we were lighting our cigars, he held a match to mine and
-I said:
-
-<p>"Thank you," and he said:
-
-<p>"Km."
-
-<p>Then I saw. 'Q' is the end of the phrase "I thank you" 'Km' is the end
-of the phrase "You are welcome." Mr. Little puts no emphasis upon either
-of them, but delivers them so reduced that they hardly have a sound. All
-Ballarat English is like that, and the effect is very soft and pleasant;
-it takes all the hardness and harshness out of our tongue and gives to it
-a delicate whispery and vanishing cadence which charms the ear like the
-faint rustling of the forest leaves.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch25"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXV.</h2>
-
-<p><i>"Classic." A book which people praise and don't read.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>On the rail again&mdash;bound for Bendigo. From diary:
-
-<p>October 23. Got up at 6, left at 7.30; soon reached Castlemaine, one of
-the rich gold-fields of the early days; waited several hours for a train;
-left at 3.40 and reached Bendigo in an hour. For comrade, a Catholic
-priest who was better than I was, but didn't seem to know it&mdash;a man full
-of graces of the heart, the mind, and the spirit; a lovable man. He will
-rise. He will be a bishop some day. Later an Archbishop. Later a
-Cardinal. Finally an Archangel, I hope. And then he will recall me when
-I say, "Do you remember that trip we made from Ballarat to Bendigo, when
-you were nothing but Father C., and I was nothing to what I am now?"
-It has actually taken nine hours to come from Ballarat to Bendigo. We
-could have saved seven by walking. However, there was no hurry.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p240.jpg (52K)" src="images/p240.jpg" height="955" width="593">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>Bendigo was another of the rich strikes of the early days. It does a
-great quartz-mining business, now&mdash;that business which, more than any
-other that I know of, teaches patience, and requires grit and a steady
-nerve. The town is full of towering chimney-stacks, and hoisting-works,
-and looks like a petroleum-city. Speaking of patience; for example, one
-of the local companies went steadily on with its deep borings and
-searchings without show of gold or a penny of reward for eleven
-years&mdash;then struck it, and became suddenly rich. The eleven years' work had
-cost $55,000, and the first gold found was a grain the size of a pin's
-head. It is kept under locks and bars, as a precious thing, and is
-reverently shown to the visitor, "hats off." When I saw it I had not
-heard its history.
-
-<p>"It is gold. Examine it&mdash;take the glass. Now how much should you say it
-is worth?"
-
-<p>I said:
-
-<p>"I should say about two cents; or in your English dialect, four
-farthings."
-
-<p>"Well, it cost L11,000."
-
-<p>"Oh, come!"
-
-<p>"Yes, it did. Ballarat and Bendigo have produced the three monumental
-nuggets of the world, and this one is the monumentalest one of the three.
-The other two represent L9,000 a piece; this one a couple of thousand
-more. It is small, and not much to look at, but it is entitled to (its)
-name&mdash;Adam. It is the Adam-nugget of this mine, and its children run up
-into the millions."
-
-<p>Speaking of patience again, another of the mines was worked, under heavy
-expenses, during 17 years before pay was struck, and still another one
-compelled a wait of 21 years before pay was struck; then, in both
-instances, the outlay was all back in a year or two, with compound
-interest.
-
-<p>Bendigo has turned out even more gold than Ballarat. The two together
-have produced $650,000,000 worth&mdash;which is half as much as California
-produced.
-
-<p>It was through Mr. Blank&mdash;not to go into particulars about his name&mdash;it
-was mainly through Mr. Blank that my stay in Bendigo was made memorably
-pleasant and interesting. He explained this to me himself. He told me
-that it was through his influence that the city government invited me to
-the town-hall to hear complimentary speeches and respond to them; that it
-was through his influence that I had been taken on a long pleasure-drive
-through the city and shown its notable features; that it was through his
-influence that I was invited to visit the great mines; that it was
-through his influence that I was taken to the hospital and allowed to see
-the convalescent Chinaman who had been attacked at midnight in his lonely
-hut eight weeks before by robbers, and stabbed forty-six times and
-scalped besides; that it was through his influence that when I arrived
-this awful spectacle of piecings and patchings and bandagings was sitting
-up in his cot letting on to read one of my books; that it was through his
-influence that efforts had been made to get the Catholic Archbishop of
-Bendigo to invite me to dinner; that it was through his influence that
-efforts had been made to get the Anglican Bishop of Bendigo to ask me to
-supper; that it was through his influence that the dean of the editorial
-fraternity had driven me through the woodsy outlying country and shown
-me, from the summit of Lone Tree Hill, the mightiest and loveliest
-expanse of forest-clad mountain and valley that I had seen in all
-Australia. And when he asked me what had most impressed me in Bendigo
-and I answered and said it was the taste and the public spirit which had
-adorned the streets with 105 miles of shade trees, he said that it was
-through his influence that it had been done.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p243.jpg (20K)" src="images/p243.jpg" height="447" width="617">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>But I am not representing him quite correctly. He did not say it was
-through his influence that all these things had happened&mdash;for that would
-have been coarse; he merely conveyed that idea; conveyed it so subtly
-that I only caught it fleetingly, as one catches vagrant faint breaths of
-perfume when one traverses the meadows in summer; conveyed it without
-offense and without any suggestion of egoism or ostentation&mdash;but conveyed
-it, nevertheless.
-
-<p>He was an Irishman; an educated gentleman; grave, and kindly, and
-courteous; a bachelor, and about forty-five or possibly fifty years old,
-apparently. He called upon me at the hotel, and it was there that we had
-this talk. He made me like him, and did it without trouble. This was
-partly through his winning and gentle ways, but mainly through the
-amazing familiarity with my books which his conversation showed. He was
-down to date with them, too; and if he had made them the study of his
-life he could hardly have been better posted as to their contents than he
-was. He made me better satisfied with myself than I had ever been
-before. It was plain that he had a deep fondness for humor, yet he never
-laughed; he never even chuckled; in fact, humor could not win to outward
-expression on his face at all. No, he was always grave&mdash;tenderly,
-pensively grave; but he made me laugh, all along; and this was very
-trying&mdash;and very pleasant at the same time&mdash;for it was at quotations from
-my own books.
-
-<p>When he was going, he turned and said:
-
-<p>"You don't remember me?"
-
-<p>"I? Why, no. Have we met before?"
-
-<p>"No, it was a matter of correspondence."
-
-<p>"Correspondence?"
-
-<p>"Yes, many years ago. Twelve or fifteen. Oh, longer than that. But of
-course you&mdash;&mdash;" A musing pause. Then he said:
-
-<p>"Do you remember Corrigan Castle?"
-
-<p>"N-no, I believe I don't. I don't seem to recall the name."
-
-<p>He waited a moment, pondering, with the door-knob in his hand, then
-started out; but turned back and said that I had once been interested in
-Corrigan Castle, and asked me if I would go with him to his quarters in
-the evening and take a hot Scotch and talk it over. I was a teetotaler
-and liked relaxation, so I said I would.
-
-<p>We drove from the lecture-hall together about half-past ten. He had a
-most comfortably and tastefully furnished parlor, with good pictures on
-the walls, Indian and Japanese ornaments on the mantel, and here and
-there, and books everywhere-largely mine; which made me proud. The light
-was brilliant, the easy chairs were deep-cushioned, the arrangements for
-brewing and smoking were all there. We brewed and lit up; then he passed
-a sheet of note-paper to me and said&mdash;
-
-<p>"Do you remember that?"
-
-<p>"Oh, yes, indeed!"
-
-<p>The paper was of a sumptuous quality. At the top was a twisted and
-interlaced monogram printed from steel dies in gold and blue and red, in
-the ornate English fashion of long years ago; and under it, in neat
-gothic capitals was this&mdash;printed in blue:
-
-<p> THE MARK TWAIN CLUB
- CORRIGAN CASTLE
- ............187..
-
-<p>"My!" said I, "how did you come by this?"
-
-<p>"I was President of it."
-
-<p>"No!&mdash;you don't mean it."
-
-<p>"It is true. I was its first President. I was re-elected annually as
-long as its meetings were held in my castle&mdash;Corrigan&mdash;which was five
-years."
-
-<p>Then he showed me an album with twenty-three photographs of me in it.
-Five of them were of old dates, the others of various later crops; the
-list closed with a picture taken by Falk in Sydney a month before.
-
-<p>"You sent us the first five; the rest were bought."
-
-<p>This was paradise! We ran late, and talked, talked, talked&mdash;subject, the
-Mark Twain Club of Corrigan Castle, Ireland.
-
-<p>My first knowledge of that Club dates away back; all of twenty years, I
-should say. It came to me in the form of a courteous letter, written on
-the note-paper which I have described, and signed "By order of the
-President; C. PEMBROKE, Secretary." It conveyed the fact that the Club
-had been created in my honor, and added the hope that this token of
-appreciation of my work would meet with my approval.
-
-<p>I answered, with thanks; and did what I could to keep my gratification
-from over-exposure.
-
-<p>It was then that the long correspondence began. A letter came back, by
-order of the President, furnishing me the names of the members-thirty-two
-in number. With it came a copy of the Constitution and By-Laws, in
-pamphlet form, and artistically printed. The initiation fee and dues
-were in their proper place; also, schedule of meetings&mdash;monthly&mdash;for
-essays upon works of mine, followed by discussions; quarterly for
-business and a supper, without essays, but with after-supper speeches;
-also there was a list of the officers: President, Vice-President,
-Secretary, Treasurer, etc. The letter was brief, but it was pleasant
-reading, for it told me about the strong interest which the membership
-took in their new venture, etc., etc. It also asked me for a
-photograph&mdash;a special one. I went down and sat for it and sent it&mdash;with a letter,
-of course.
-
-<p>Presently came the badge of the Club, and very dainty and pretty it was;
-and very artistic. It was a frog peeping out from a graceful tangle of
-grass-sprays and rushes, and was done in enamels on a gold basis, and had
-a gold pin back of it. After I had petted it, and played with it, and
-caressed it, and enjoyed it a couple of hours, the light happened to fall
-upon it at a new angle, and revealed to me a cunning new detail; with the
-light just right, certain delicate shadings of the grass-blades and
-rush-stems wove themselves into a monogram&mdash;mine! You can see that that jewel
-was a work of art. And when you come to consider the intrinsic value of
-it, you must concede that it is not every literary club that could afford
-a badge like that. It was easily worth $75, in the opinion of Messrs.
-Marcus and Ward of New York. They said they could not duplicate it for
-that and make a profit.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p247.jpg (6K)" src="images/p247.jpg" height="230" width="184">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>By this time the Club was well under way; and
-from that time forth its secretary kept my off-hours well supplied with
-business. He reported the Club's discussions of my books with laborious
-fullness, and did his work with great spirit and ability. As a, rule, he
-synopsized; but when a speech was especially brilliant, he short-handed
-it and gave me the best passages from it, written out. There were five
-speakers whom he particularly favored in that way: Palmer, Forbes,
-Naylor, Norris, and Calder. Palmer and Forbes could never get through a
-speech without attacking each other, and each in his own way was
-formidably effective&mdash;Palmer in virile and eloquent abuse, Forbes in
-courtly and elegant but scalding satire. I could always tell which of
-them was talking without looking for his name. Naylor had a polished
-style and a happy knack at felicitous metaphor; Norris's style was wholly
-without ornament, but enviably compact, lucid, and strong. But after
-all, Calder was the gem. He never spoke when sober, he spoke
-continuously when he wasn't. And certainly they were the drunkest
-speeches that a man ever uttered. They were full of good things, but so
-incredibly mixed up and wandering that it made one's head swim to follow
-him. They were not intended to be funny, but they were,&mdash;funny for the
-very gravity which the speaker put into his flowing miracles of
-incongruity. In the course of five years I came to know the styles of
-the five orators as well as I knew the style of any speaker in my own
-club at home.
-
-<p>These reports came every month. They were written on foolscap, 600 words
-to the page, and usually about twenty-five pages in a report&mdash;a good
-15,000 words, I should say,&mdash;a solid week's work. The reports were
-absorbingly entertaining, long as they were; but, unfortunately for me,
-they did not come alone. They were always accompanied by a lot of
-questions about passages and purposes in my books, which the Club wanted
-answered; and additionally accompanied every quarter by the Treasurer's
-report, and the Auditor's report, and the Committee's report, and the
-President's review, and my opinion of these was always desired; also
-suggestions for the good of the Club, if any occurred to me.
-
-<p>By and by I came to dread those things; and this dread grew and grew and
-grew; grew until I got to anticipating them with a cold horror. For I
-was an indolent man, and not fond of letter-writing, and whenever these
-things came I had to put everything by and sit down&mdash;for my own peace of
-mind&mdash;and dig and dig until I got something out of my head which would
-answer for a reply. I got along fairly well the first year; but for the
-succeeding four years the Mark Twain Club of Corrigan Castle was my
-curse, my nightmare, the grief and misery of my life. And I got so, so
-sick of sitting for photographs. I sat every year for five years, trying
-to satisfy that insatiable organization. Then at last I rose in revolt.
-I could endure my oppressions no longer. I pulled my fortitude together
-and tore off my chains, and was a free man again, and happy. From that
-day I burned the secretary's fat envelopes the moment they arrived, and
-by and by they ceased to come.
-
-<p>Well, in the sociable frankness of that night in Bendigo I brought this
-all out in full confession. Then Mr. Blank came out in the same frank
-way, and with a preliminary word of gentle apology said that he was the
-Mark Twain Club, and the only member it had ever had!
-
-<p>Why, it was matter for anger, but I didn't feel any. He said he never
-had to work for a living, and that by the time he was thirty life had
-become a bore and a weariness to him. He had no interests left; they had
-paled and perished, one by one, and left him desolate. He had begun to
-think of suicide. Then all of a sudden he thought of that happy idea of
-starting an imaginary club, and went straightway to work at it, with
-enthusiasm and love. He was charmed with it; it gave him something to
-do. It elaborated itself on his hands;&mdash;it became twenty times more
-complex and formidable than was his first rude draft of it. Every new
-addition to his original plan which cropped up in his mind gave him a
-fresh interest and a new pleasure. He designed the Club badge himself,
-and worked over it, altering and improving it, a number of days and
-nights; then sent to London and had it made. It was the only one that
-was made. It was made for me; the "rest of the Club" went without.
-
-<p>He invented the thirty-two members and their names. He invented the five
-favorite speakers and their five separate styles. He invented their
-speeches, and reported them himself. He would have kept that Club going
-until now, if I hadn't deserted, he said. He said he worked like a slave
-over those reports; each of them cost him from a week to a fortnight's
-work, and the work gave him pleasure and kept him alive and willing to be
-alive. It was a bitter blow to him when the Club died.
-
-<p>Finally, there wasn't any Corrigan Castle. He had invented that, too.
-
-<p>It was wonderful&mdash;the whole thing; and altogether the most ingenious and
-laborious and cheerful and painstaking practical joke I have ever heard
-of. And I liked it; liked to hear him tell about it; yet I have been a
-hater of practical jokes from as long back as I can remember. Finally he
-said&mdash;
-
-<p>"Do you remember a note from Melbourne fourteen or fifteen years ago,
-telling about your lecture tour in Australia, and your death and burial
-in Melbourne?&mdash;a note from Henry Bascomb, of Bascomb Hall, Upper
-Holywell, Hants."
-
-<p>"Yes."
-
-<p>"I wrote it."
-
-<p>"M-y-word!"
-
-<p>"Yes, I did it. I don't know why. I just took the notion, and carried
-it out without stopping to think. It was wrong. It could have done
-harm. I was always sorry about it afterward. You must forgive me. I
-was Mr. Bascom's guest on his yacht, on his voyage around the world. He
-often spoke of you, and of the pleasant times you had had together in his
-home; and the notion took me, there in Melbourne, and I imitated his
-hand, and wrote the letter."
-
-<p>So the mystery was cleared up, after so many, many years.
-
-
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p251.jpg (21K)" src="images/p251.jpg" height="320" width="639">
-</center>
-
-<br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch26"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXVI.</h2>
-
-<p><i>There are people who can do all fine and heroic things but one! keep
-from telling their happinesses to the unhappy.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>After visits to Maryborough and some other Australian towns, we presently
-took passage for New Zealand. If it would not look too much like showing
-off, I would tell the reader where New Zealand is; for he is as I was; he
-thinks he knows. And he thinks he knows where Hertzegovina is; and how
-to pronounce pariah; and how to use the word unique without exposing
-himself to the derision of the dictionary. But in truth, he knows none
-of these things. There are but four or five people in the world who
-possess this knowledge, and these make their living out of it. They
-travel from place to place, visiting literary assemblages, geographical
-societies, and seats of learning, and springing sudden bets that these
-people do not know these things. Since all people think they know them,
-they are an easy prey to these adventurers. Or rather they were an easy
-prey until the law interfered, three months ago, and a New York court
-decided that this kind of gambling is illegal, "because it traverses
-Article IV, Section 9, of the Constitution of the United States, which
-forbids betting on a sure thing." This decision was rendered by the full
-Bench of the New York Supreme Court, after a test sprung upon the court
-by counsel for the prosecution, which showed that none of the nine Judges
-was able to answer any of the four questions.
-
-<p>All people think that New Zealand is close to Australia or Asia, or
-somewhere, and that you cross to it on a bridge. But that is not so. It
-is not close to anything, but lies by itself, out in the water. It is
-nearest to Australia, but still not near. The gap between is very wide.
-It will be a surprise to the reader, as it was to me, to learn that the
-distance from Australia to New Zealand is really twelve or thirteen
-hundred miles, and that there is no bridge. I learned this from
-Professor X., of Yale University, whom I met in the steamer on the great
-lakes when I was crossing the continent to sail across the Pacific. I
-asked him about New Zealand, in order to make conversation. I supposed
-he would generalize a little without compromising himself, and then turn
-the subject to something he was acquainted with, and my object would then
-be attained; the ice would be broken, and we could go smoothly on, and
-get acquainted, and have a pleasant time. But, to my surprise, he was
-not only not embarrassed by my question, but seemed to welcome it, and to
-take a distinct interest in it. He began to talk&mdash;fluently, confidently,
-comfortably; and as he talked, my admiration grew and grew; for as the
-subject developed under his hands, I saw that he not only knew where New
-Zealand was, but that he was minutely familiar with every detail of its
-history, politics, religions, and commerce, its fauna, flora, geology,
-products, and climatic peculiarities. When he was done, I was lost in
-wonder and admiration, and said to myself, he knows everything; in the
-domain of human knowledge he is king.
-
-<p>I wanted to see him do more miracles; and so, just for the pleasure of
-hearing him answer, I asked him about Hertzegovina, and pariah, and
-unique. But he began to generalize then, and show distress. I saw that
-with New Zealand gone, he was a Samson shorn of his locks; he was as
-other men. This was a curious and interesting mystery, and I was frank
-with him, and asked him to explain it.
-
-<p>He tried to avoid it at first; but then laughed and said that after all,
-the matter was not worth concealment, so he would let me into the secret.
-In substance, this is his story:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p>"Last autumn I was at work one morning at home, when a card came up&mdash;the
-card of a stranger. Under the name was printed a line which showed that
-this visitor was Professor of Theological Engineering in Wellington
-University, New Zealand. I was troubled&mdash;troubled, I mean, by the
-shortness of the notice. College etiquette required that he be at once
-invited to dinner by some member of the Faculty&mdash;invited to dine on that
-day&mdash;not, put off till a subsequent day. I did not quite know what to
-do. College etiquette requires, in the case of a foreign guest, that the
-dinner-talk shall begin with complimentary references to his country, its
-great men, its services to civilization, its seats of learning, and
-things like that; and of course the host is responsible, and must either
-begin this talk himself or see that it is done by some one else. I was
-in great difficulty; and the more I searched my memory, the more my
-trouble grew. I found that I knew nothing about New Zealand. I thought
-I knew where it was, and that was all. I had an impression that it was
-close to Australia, or Asia, or somewhere, and that one went over to it
-on a bridge. This might turn out to be incorrect; and even if correct,
-it would not furnish matter enough for the purpose at the dinner, and I
-should expose my College to shame before my guest; he would see that I, a
-member of the Faculty of the first University in America, was wholly
-ignorant of his country, and he would go away and tell this, and laugh at
-it. The thought of it made my face burn.
-
-<p>"I sent for my wife and told her how I was situated, and asked for her
-help, and she thought of a thing which I might have thought of myself, if
-I had not been excited and worried. She said she would go and tell the
-visitor that I was out but would be in in a few minutes; and she would
-talk, and keep him busy while I got out the back way and hurried over and
-make Professor Lawson give the dinner. For Lawson knew everything, and
-could meet the guest in a creditable way and save the reputation of the
-University.
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p253.jpg (34K)" src="images/p253.jpg" height="521" width="401">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p>I ran to Lawson, but was disappointed. He did not know
-anything about New Zealand. He said that, as far as his recollection
-went it was close to Australia, or Asia, or somewhere, and you go over to
-it on a bridge; but that was all he knew. It was too bad. Lawson was a
-perfect encyclopedia of abstruse learning; but now in this hour of our
-need, it turned out that he did not know any useful thing.
-
-<p>"We consulted. He saw that the reputation of the University was in very
-real peril, and he walked the floor in anxiety, talking, and trying to
-think out some way to meet the difficulty. Presently he decided that we
-must try the rest of the Faculty&mdash;some of them might know about New
-Zealand. So we went to the telephone and called up the professor of
-astronomy and asked him, and he said that all he knew was, that it was
-close to Australia, or Asia, or somewhere, and you went over to it on&mdash;&mdash;
-
-<p>"We shut him off and called up the professor of biology, and he said that
-all he knew was that it was close to Aus&mdash;&mdash;.
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-
-<center>
-<table summary="">
-<tr>
-<td>
-<img alt="p254a.jpg (6K)" src="images/p254a.jpg" height="384" width="153">
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
-</td>
-
-<td><img alt="p254b.jpg (5K)" src="images/p254b.jpg" height="380" width="135">
-</td>
-
-</tr>
-</table>
-</center>
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p>"We shut him off, and sat down, worried and disheartened, to see if we
-could think up some other scheme. We shortly hit upon one which promised
-well, and this one we adopted, and set its machinery going at once. It
-was this. Lawson must give the dinner. The Faculty must be notified by
-telephone to prepare. We must all get to work diligently, and at the end
-of eight hours and a half we must come to dinner acquainted with New
-Zealand; at least well enough informed to appear without discredit before
-this native. To seem properly intelligent we should have to know about
-New Zealand's population, and politics, and form of government, and
-commerce, and taxes, and products, and ancient history, and modern
-history, and varieties of religion, and nature of the laws, and their
-codification, and amount of revenue, and whence drawn, and methods of
-collection, and percentage of loss, and character of climate, and&mdash;well,
-a lot of things like that; we must suck the maps and cyclopedias dry.
-And while we posted up in this way, the Faculty's wives must flock over,
-one after the other, in a studiedly casual way, and help my wife keep the
-New Zealander quiet, and not let him get out and come interfering with
-our studies. The scheme worked admirably; but it stopped business,
-stopped it entirely.
-
-<p>"It is in the official log-book of Yale, to be read and wondered at by
-future generations&mdash;the account of the Great Blank Day&mdash;the memorable
-Blank Day&mdash;the day wherein the wheels of culture were stopped, a Sunday
-silence prevailed all about, and the whole University stood still while
-the Faculty read-up and qualified itself to sit at meat, without shame,
-in the presence of the Professor of Theological Engineering from New
-Zealand:
-
-<p>"When we assembled at the dinner we were miserably tired and worn&mdash;but we
-were posted. Yes, it is fair to claim that. In fact, erudition is a
-pale name for it. New Zealand was the only subject; and it was just
-beautiful to hear us ripple it out. And with such an air of
-unembarrassed ease, and unostentatious familiarity with detail, and
-trained and seasoned mastery of the subject-and oh, the grace and fluency
-of it!
-
-<p>"Well, finally somebody happened to notice that the guest was looking
-dazed, and wasn't saying anything. So they stirred him up, of course.
-Then that man came out with a good, honest, eloquent compliment that made
-the Faculty blush. He said he was not worthy to sit in the company of
-men like these; that he had been silent from admiration; that he had been
-silent from another cause also&mdash;silent from shame&mdash;silent from ignorance!
-'For,' said he, 'I, who have lived eighteen years in New Zealand and have
-served five in a professorship, and ought to know much about that
-country, perceive, now, that I know almost nothing about it. I say it
-with shame, that I have learned fifty times, yes, a hundred times more
-about New Zealand in these two hours at this table than I ever knew
-before in all the eighteen years put together. I was silent because I
-could not help myself. What I knew about taxes, and policies, and laws,
-and revenue, and products, and history, and all that multitude of things,
-was but general, and ordinary, and vague-unscientific, in a word&mdash;and it
-would have been insanity to expose it here to the searching glare of your
-amazingly accurate and all-comprehensive knowledge of those matters,
-gentlemen. I beg you to let me sit silent&mdash;as becomes me. But do not
-change the subject; I can at least follow you, in this one; whereas if
-you change to one which shall call out the full strength of your mighty
-erudition, I shall be as one lost. If you know all this about a remote
-little inconsequent patch like New Zealand, ah, what wouldn't you know
-about any other Subject!'"
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p255.jpg (18K)" src="images/p255.jpg" height="517" width="343">
-</center>
-
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch27"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXVII.</h2>
-
-<p><i>Man is the Only Animal that Blushes. Or needs to.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p><i>The universal brotherhood of man is our most precious possession, what
-there is of it.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>FROM DIARY:
-
-<p>November 1&mdash;noon. A fine day, a brilliant sun. Warm in the sun, cold
-in the shade&mdash;an icy breeze blowing out of the south. A solemn long
-swell rolling up northward. It comes from the South Pole, with nothing
-in the way to obstruct its march and tone its energy down. I have read
-somewhere that an acute observer among the early explorers&mdash;Cook? or
-Tasman?&mdash;accepted this majestic swell as trustworthy circumstantial
-evidence that no important land lay to the southward, and so did not
-waste time on a useless quest in that direction, but changed his course
-and went searching elsewhere.
-
-<p>Afternoon. Passing between Tasmania (formerly Van Diemen's Land) and
-neighboring islands&mdash;islands whence the poor exiled Tasmanian savages
-used to gaze at their lost homeland and cry; and die of broken hearts.
-How glad I am that all these native races are dead and gone, or nearly
-so. The work was mercifully swift and horrible in some portions of
-Australia. As far as Tasmania is concerned, the extermination was
-complete: not a native is left. It was a strife of years, and decades of
-years. The Whites and the Blacks hunted each other, ambushed each other,
-butchered each other. The Blacks were not numerous. But they were wary,
-alert, cunning, and they knew their country well. They lasted a long
-time, few as they were, and inflicted much slaughter upon the Whites.
-
-<p>The Government wanted to save the Blacks from ultimate extermination, if
-possible. One of its schemes was to capture them and coop them up, on a
-neighboring island, under guard. Bodies of Whites volunteered for the
-hunt, for the pay was good&mdash;L5 for each Black captured and delivered, but
-the success achieved was not very satisfactory. The Black was naked, and
-his body was greased. It was hard to get a grip on him that would hold.
-The Whites moved about in armed bodies, and surprised little families of
-natives, and did make captures; but it was suspected that in these
-surprises half a dozen natives were killed to one caught&mdash;and that was
-not what the Government desired.
-
-<p>Another scheme was to drive the natives into a corner of the island and
-fence them in by a cordon of men placed in line across the country; but
-the natives managed to slip through, constantly, and continue their
-murders and arsons.
-
-<p>The governor warned these unlettered savages by printed proclamation that
-they must stay in the desolate region officially appointed for them! The
-proclamation was a dead letter; the savages could not read it. Afterward
-a picture-proclamation was issued. It was painted up on boards, and
-these were nailed to trees in the forest.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p258.jpg (53K)" src="images/p258.jpg" height="997" width="561">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>Herewith is a photographic
-reproduction of this fashion-plate. Substantially it means:
-
-<p>1. The Governor wishes the Whites and the Blacks to love each other;
-
-<p>2. He loves his black subjects;
-
-<p>3. Blacks who kill Whites will be hanged;
-
-<p>4. Whites who kill Blacks will be hanged.
-
-<p>Upon its several schemes the Government spent L30,000 and employed the
-labors and ingenuities of several thousand Whites for a long time with
-failure as a result. Then, at last, a quarter of a century after the
-beginning of the troubles between the two races, the right man was found.
-No, he found himself. This was George Augustus Robinson, called in
-history "The Conciliator." He was not educated, and not conspicuous in
-any way. He was a working bricklayer, in Hobart Town. But he must have
-been an amazing personality; a man worth traveling far to see. It may be
-his counterpart appears in history, but I do not know where to look for
-it.
-
-<p>He set himself this incredible task: to go out into the wilderness, the
-jungle, and the mountain-retreats where the hunted and implacable savages
-were hidden, and appear among them unarmed, speak the language of love
-and of kindness to them, and persuade them to forsake their homes and the
-wild free life that was so dear to them, and go with him and surrender to
-the hated Whites and live under their watch and ward, and upon their
-charity the rest of their lives! On its face it was the dream of a
-madman.
-
-<p>In the beginning, his moral-suasion project was sarcastically dubbed the
-sugar plum speculation. If the scheme was striking, and new to the
-world's experience, the situation was not less so. It was this. The
-White population numbered 40,000 in 1831; the Black population numbered
-three hundred. Not 300 warriors, but 300 men, women, and children. The
-Whites were armed with guns, the Blacks with clubs and spears. The
-Whites had fought the Blacks for a quarter of a century, and had tried
-every thinkable way to capture, kill, or subdue them; and could not do
-it. If white men of any race could have done it, these would have
-accomplished it. But every scheme had failed, the splendid 300, the
-matchless 300 were unconquered, and manifestly unconquerable. They would
-not yield, they would listen to no terms, they would fight to the bitter
-end. Yet they had no poet to keep up their heart, and sing the marvel of
-their magnificent patriotism.
-
-<p>At the end of five-and-twenty years of hard fighting, the surviving 300
-naked patriots were still defiant, still persistent, still efficacious
-with their rude weapons, and the Governor and the 40,000 knew not which
-way to turn, nor what to do.
-
-<p>Then the Bricklayer&mdash;that wonderful man&mdash;proposed to go out into the
-wilderness, with no weapon but his tongue, and no protection but his
-honest eye and his humane heart; and track those embittered savages to
-their lairs in the gloomy forests and among the mountain snows.
-Naturally, he was considered a crank. But he was not quite that. In
-fact, he was a good way short of that. He was building upon his long and
-intimate knowledge of the native character. The deriders of his project
-were right&mdash;from their standpoint&mdash;for they believed the natives to be
-mere wild beasts; and Robinson was right, from his standpoint&mdash;for he
-believed the natives to be human beings. The truth did really lie
-between the two. The event proved that Robinson's judgment was soundest;
-but about once a month for four years the event came near to giving the
-verdict to the deriders, for about that frequently Robinson barely
-escaped falling under the native spears.
-
-<p>But history shows that he had a thinking head, and was not a mere wild
-sentimentalist. For instance, he wanted the war parties called in
-before he started unarmed upon his mission of peace. He wanted the best
-chance of success&mdash;not a half-chance. And he was very willing to have
-help; and so, high rewards were advertised, for any who would go unarmed
-with him. This opportunity was declined. Robinson persuaded some tamed
-natives of both sexes to go with him&mdash;a strong evidence of his persuasive
-powers, for those natives well knew that their destruction would be
-almost certain. As it turned out, they had to face death over and over
-again.
-
-<p>Robinson and his little party had a difficult undertaking upon their
-hands. They could not ride off, horseback, comfortably into the woods
-and call Leonidas and his 300 together for a talk and a treaty the
-following day; for the wild men were not in a body; they were scattered,
-immense distances apart, over regions so desolate that even the birds
-could not make a living with the chances offered&mdash;scattered in groups of
-twenty, a dozen, half a dozen, even in groups of three. And the mission
-must go on foot. Mr. Bonwick furnishes a description of those horrible
-regions, whereby it will be seen that even fugitive gangs of the hardiest
-and choicest human devils the world has seen&mdash;the convicts set apart to
-people the "Hell of Macquarrie Harbor Station"&mdash;were never able, but
-once, to survive the horrors of a march through them, but starving and
-struggling, and fainting and failing, ate each other, and died:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p>"Onward, still onward, was the order of the indomitable Robinson. No one
-ignorant of the western country of Tasmania can form a correct idea of
-the traveling difficulties. While I was resident in Hobart Town, the
-Governor, Sir John Franklin, and his lady, undertook the western journey
-to Macquarrie Harbor, and suffered terribly. One man who assisted to
-carry her ladyship through the swamps, gave me his bitter experience of
-its miseries. Several were disabled for life. No wonder that but one
-party, escaping from Macquarrie Harbor convict settlement, arrived at the
-civilized region in safety. Men perished in the scrub, were lost in
-snow, or were devoured by their companions. This was the territory
-traversed by Mr. Robinson and his Black guides. All honor to his
-intrepidity, and their wonderful fidelity! When they had, in the depth
-of winter, to cross deep and rapid rivers, pass among mountains six
-thousand feet high, pierce dangerous thickets, and find food in a country
-forsaken even by birds, we can realize their hardships.
-
-<p>"After a frightful journey by Cradle Mountain, and over the lofty plateau
-of Middlesex Plains, the travelers experienced unwonted misery, and the
-circumstances called forth the best qualities of the noble little band.
-Mr. Robinson wrote afterwards to Mr. Secretary Burnett some details of
-this passage of horrors. In that letter, of Oct 2, 1834, he states that
-his Natives were very reluctant to go over the dreadful mountain passes;
-that 'for seven successive days we continued traveling over one solid
-body of snow;' that 'the snows were of incredible depth;' that 'the
-Natives were frequently up to their middle in snow.' But still the
-ill-clad, ill-fed, diseased, and way-worn men and women were sustained by the
-cheerful voice of their unconquerable friend, and responded most nobly to
-his call."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>Mr. Bonwick says that Robinson's friendly capture of the Big River tribe
-remember, it was a whole tribe&mdash;"was by far the grandest feature of the
-war, and the crowning glory of his efforts." The word "war" was not well
-chosen, and is misleading. There was war still, but only the Blacks were
-conducting it&mdash;the Whites were holding off until Robinson could give his
-scheme a fair trial. I think that we are to understand that the friendly
-capture of that tribe was by far the most important thing, the highest in
-value, that happened during the whole thirty years of truceless
-hostilities; that it was a decisive thing, a peaceful Waterloo, the
-surrender of the native Napoleon and his dreaded forces, the happy ending
-of the long strife. For "that tribe was the terror of the colony," its
-chief "the Black Douglas of Bush households."
-
-<p>Robinson knew that these formidable people were lurking somewhere, in
-some remote corner of the hideous regions just described, and he and his
-unarmed little party started on a tedious and perilous hunt for them. At
-last, "there, under the shadows of the Frenchman's Cap, whose grim cone
-rose five thousand feet in the uninhabited westward interior," they were
-found. It was a serious moment. Robinson himself believed, for once,
-that his mission, successful until now, was to end here in failure, and
-that his own death-hour had struck.
-
-<p>The redoubtable chief stood in menacing attitude, with his eighteen-foot
-spear poised; his warriors stood massed at his back, armed for battle,
-their faces eloquent with their long-cherished loathing for white men.
-"They rattled their spears and shouted their war-cry." Their women were
-back of them, laden with supplies of weapons, and keeping their 150 eager
-dogs quiet until the chief should give the signal to fall on.
-
-<p>"I think we shall soon be in the resurrection," whispered a member of
-Robinson's little party.
-
-<p>"I think we shall," answered Robinson; then plucked up heart and began
-his persuasions&mdash;in the tribe's own dialect, which surprised and pleased
-the chief. Presently there was an interruption by the chief:
-
-<p>"Who are you?"
-
-<p>"We are gentlemen."
-
-<p>"Where are your guns?"
-
-<p>"We have none."
-
-<p>The warrior was astonished.
-
-<p>"Where your little guns?" (pistols).
-
-<p>"We have none."
-
-<p>A few minutes passed&mdash;in by-play&mdash;suspense&mdash;discussion among the
-tribesmen&mdash;Robinson's tamed squaws ventured to cross the line and begin
-persuasions upon the wild squaws. Then the chief stepped back "to confer
-with the old women&mdash;the real arbiters of savage war." Mr. Bonwick
-continues:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "As the fallen gladiator in the arena looks for the signal of life
- or death from the president of the amphitheatre, so waited our
- friends in anxious suspense while the conference continued. In a
- few minutes, before a word was uttered, the women of the tribe threw
- up their arms three times. This was the inviolable sign of peace!
- Down fell the spears. Forward, with a heavy sigh of relief, and
- upward glance of gratitude, came the friends of peace. The
- impulsive natives rushed forth with tears and cries, as each saw in
- the other's ranks a loved one of the past.
-
-<p> "It was a jubilee of joy. A festival followed. And, while tears
- flowed at the recital of woe, a corrobory of pleasant laughter
- closed the eventful day."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>In four years, without the spilling of a drop of blood, Robinson brought
-them all in, willing captives, and delivered them to the white governor,
-and ended the war which powder and bullets, and thousands of men to use
-them, had prosecuted without result since 1804.
-
-<p>Marsyas charming the wild beasts with his music&mdash;that is fable; but the
-miracle wrought by Robinson is fact. It is history&mdash;and authentic; and
-surely, there is nothing greater, nothing more reverence-compelling in
-the history of any country, ancient or modern.
-
-<p>And in memory of the greatest man Australasia ever developed or ever will
-develop, there is a stately monument to George Augustus Robinson, the
-Conciliator in&mdash;no, it is to another man, I forget his name.
-
-<p>However, Robertson's own generation honored him, and in manifesting it
-honored themselves. The Government gave him a money-reward and a
-thousand acres of land; and the people held mass-meetings and praised him
-and emphasized their praise with a large subscription of money.
-
-<p>A good dramatic situation; but the curtain fell on another:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> "When this desperate tribe was thus captured, there was much
- surprise to find that the L30,000 of a little earlier day had been
- spent, and the whole population of the colony placed under arms, in
- contention with an opposing force of sixteen men with wooden spears!
- Yet such was the fact. The celebrated Big River tribe, that had
- been raised by European fears to a host, consisted of sixteen men,
- nine women, and one child. With a knowledge of the mischief done by
- these few, their wonderful marches and their widespread aggressions,
- their enemies cannot deny to them the attributes of courage and
- military tact. A Wallace might harass a large army with a small and
- determined band; but the contending parties were at least equal in
- arms and civilization. The Zulus who fought us in Africa, the
- Maories in New Zealand, the Arabs in the Soudan, were far better
- provided with weapons, more advanced in the science of war, and
- considerably more numerous, than the naked Tasmanians. Governor
- Arthur rightly termed them a noble race."
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>These were indeed wonderful people, the natives. They ought not to have
-been wasted. They should have been crossed with the Whites. It would
-have improved the Whites and done the Natives no harm.
-
-<p>But the Natives were wasted, poor heroic wild creatures. They were
-gathered together in little settlements on neighboring islands, and
-paternally cared for by the Government, and instructed in religion, and
-deprived of tobacco, because the superintendent of the Sunday-school was
-not a smoker, and so considered smoking immoral.
-
-<p>The Natives were not used to clothes, and houses, and regular hours, and
-church, and school, and Sunday-school, and work, and the other misplaced
-persecutions of civilization, and they pined for their lost home and
-their wild free life. Too late they repented that they had traded that
-heaven for this hell. They sat homesick on their alien crags, and day by
-day gazed out through their tears over the sea with unappeasable longing
-toward the hazy bulk which was the specter of what had been their
-paradise; one by one their hearts broke and they died.
-
-<p>In a very few years nothing but a scant remnant remained alive. A
-handful lingered along into age. In 1864 the last man died, in 1876 the
-last woman died, and the Spartans of Australasia were extinct.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p266.jpg (40K)" src="images/p266.jpg" height="1015" width="583">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>The Whites always mean well when they take human fish out of the ocean
-and try to make them dry and warm and happy and comfortable in a chicken
-coop; but the kindest-hearted white man can always be depended on to
-prove himself inadequate when he deals with savages. He cannot turn the
-situation around and imagine how he would like it to have a well-meaning
-savage transfer him from his house and his church and his clothes and his
-books and his choice food to a hideous wilderness of sand and rocks and
-snow, and ice and sleet and storm and blistering sun, with no shelter, no
-bed, no covering for his and his family's naked bodies, and nothing to
-eat but snakes and grubs and 'offal. This would be a hell to him; and if
-he had any wisdom he would know that his own civilization is a hell to
-the savage&mdash;but he hasn't any, and has never had any; and for lack of it
-he shut up those poor natives in the unimaginable perdition of his
-civilization, committing his crime with the very best intentions, and saw
-those poor creatures waste away under his tortures; and gazed at it,
-vaguely troubled and sorrowful, and wondered what could be the matter
-with them. One is almost betrayed into respecting those criminals, they
-were so sincerely kind, and tender, and humane; and well-meaning.
-
-<p><i>They</i> didn't know why those exiled savages faded away, and they did their
-honest best to reason it out. And one man, in a like case in New South
-Wales, did reason it out and arrive at a solution:
-
-<blockquote><blockquote>
-<p> <i>"It is from the wrath of God, which is revealed from heaven against
- cold ungodliness and unrighteousness of men."</i>
-</blockquote></blockquote>
-
-<p>That settles it.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch28"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXVIII.</h2>
-
-<p><i>Let us be thankful for the fools. But for them the rest of us could not
-succeed.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>The aphorism does really seem true: "Given the Circumstances, the Man
-will appear." But the man musn't appear ahead of time, or it will spoil
-everything. In Robinson's case the Moment had been approaching for a
-quarter of a century&mdash;and meantime the future Conciliator was tranquilly
-laying bricks in Hobart. When all other means had failed, the Moment had
-arrived, and the Bricklayer put down his trowel and came forward.
-Earlier he would have been jeered back to his trowel again. It reminds
-me of a tale that was told me by a Kentuckian on the train when we were
-crossing Montana. He said the tale was current in Louisville years ago.
-He thought it had been in print, but could not remember. At any rate, in
-substance it was this, as nearly as I can call it back to mind.
-
-<p>A few years before the outbreak of the Civil War it began to appear that
-Memphis, Tennessee, was going to be a great tobacco entrepot&mdash;the wise
-could see the signs of it. At that time Memphis had a wharf boat, of
-course. There was a paved sloping wharf, for the accommodation of
-freight, but the steamers landed on the outside of the wharfboat, and all
-loading and unloading was done across it, between steamer and shore. A
-number of wharfboat clerks were needed, and part of the time, every day,
-they were very busy, and part of the time tediously idle. They were
-boiling over with youth and spirits, and they had to make the intervals
-of idleness endurable in some way; and as a rule, they did it by
-contriving practical jokes and playing them upon each other.
-
-<p>The favorite butt for the jokes was Ed Jackson, because he played none
-himself, and was easy game for other people's&mdash;for he always believed
-whatever was told him.
-
-<p>One day he told the others his scheme for his holiday. He was not going
-fishing or hunting this time&mdash;no, he had thought out a better plan. Out
-of his $40 a month he had saved enough for his purpose, in an economical
-way, and he was going to have a look at New York.
-
-<p>It was a great and surprising idea. It meant travel&mdash;immense travel&mdash;in
-those days it meant seeing the world; it was the equivalent of a voyage
-around it in ours. At first the other youths thought his mind was
-affected, but when they found that he was in earnest, the next thing to
-be thought of was, what sort of opportunity this venture might afford for
-a practical joke.
-
-<p>The young men studied over the matter, then held a secret consultation
-and made a plan. The idea was, that one of the conspirators should offer
-Ed a letter of introduction to Commodore Vanderbilt, and trick him into
-delivering it. It would be easy to do this. But what would Ed do when
-he got back to Memphis? That was a serious matter. He was good-hearted,
-and had always taken the jokes patiently; but they had been jokes which
-did not humiliate him, did not bring him to shame; whereas, this would be
-a cruel one in that way, and to play it was to meddle with fire; for with
-all his good nature, Ed was a Southerner&mdash;and the English of that was,
-that when he came back he would kill as many of the conspirators as he
-could before falling himself. However, the chances must be taken&mdash;it
-wouldn't do to waste such a joke as that.
-
-<p>So the letter was prepared with great care and elaboration. It was
-signed Alfred Fairchild, and was written in an easy and friendly spirit.
-It stated that the bearer was the bosom friend of the writer's son, and
-was of good parts and sterling character, and it begged the Commodore to
-be kind to the young stranger for the writer's sake. It went on to say,
-"You may have forgotten me, in this long stretch of time, but you will
-easily call me back out of your boyhood memories when I remind you of how
-we robbed old Stevenson's orchard that night; and how, while he was
-chasing down the road after us, we cut across the field and doubled back
-and sold his own apples to his own cook for a hat-full of doughnuts; and
-the time that we&mdash;&mdash;" and so forth and so on, bringing in names of
-imaginary comrades, and detailing all sorts of wild and absurd and, of
-course, wholly imaginary schoolboy pranks and adventures, but putting
-them into lively and telling shape.
-
-<p>With all gravity Ed was asked if he would like to have a letter to
-Commodore Vanderbilt, the great millionaire. It was expected that the
-question would astonish Ed, and it did.
-
-<p>"What? Do you know that extraordinary man?"
-
-<p>"No; but my father does. They were schoolboys together. And if you
-like, I'll write and ask father. I know he'll be glad to give it to you
-for my sake."
-
-<p>Ed could not find words capable of expressing his gratitude and delight.
-The three days passed, and the letter was put into his bands. He started
-on his trip, still pouring out his thanks while he shook good-bye all
-around. And when he was out of sight his comrades let fly their laughter
-in a storm of happy satisfaction&mdash;and then quieted down, and were less
-happy, less satisfied. For the old doubts as to the wisdom of this
-deception began to intrude again.
-
-<p>Arrived in New York, Ed found his way to Commodore Vanderbilt's business
-quarters, and was ushered into a large anteroom, where a score of people
-were patiently awaiting their turn for a two-minute interview with the
-millionaire in his private office. A servant asked for Ed's card, and
-got the letter instead. Ed was sent for a moment later, and found Mr.
-Vanderbilt alone, with the letter&mdash;open&mdash;in his hand.
-
-<p>"Pray sit down, Mr. &mdash;er&mdash;"
-
-<p>"Jackson."
-
-<p>"Ah&mdash;sit down, Mr. Jackson. By the opening sentences it seems to be a
-letter from an old friend. Allow me&mdash;I will run my eye through it. He
-says he says&mdash;why, who is it?" He turned the sheet and found the
-signature. "Alfred Fairchild&mdash;hm&mdash;Fairchild&mdash;I don't recall the name.
-But that is nothing&mdash;a thousand names have gone from me. He says&mdash;he
-says-hm-hmoh, dear, but it's good! Oh, it's rare! I don't quite
-remember it, but I seem to it'll all come back to me presently. He
-says&mdash;he says&mdash;hm&mdash;hm-oh, but that was a game! Oh, spl-endid! How it
-carries me back! It's all dim, of course it's a long time ago&mdash;and the
-names&mdash;some of the names are wavery and indistinct&mdash;but sho', I know it
-happened&mdash;I can feel it! and lord, how it warms my heart, and brings
-back my lost youth! Well, well, well, I've got to come back into this
-work-a-day world now&mdash;business presses and people are waiting&mdash;I'll keep
-the rest for bed to-night, and live my youth over again. And you'll
-thank Fairchild for me when you see him&mdash;I used to call him Alf, I
-think&mdash;and you'll give him my gratitude for&mdash;what this letter has done for the
-tired spirit of a hard-worked man; and tell him there isn't anything that
-I can do for him or any friend of his that I won't do. And as for you,
-my lad, you are my guest; you can't stop at any hotel in New York. Sit.
-where you are a little while, till I get through with these people, then
-we'll go home. I'll take care of you, my boy&mdash;make yourself easy as to
-that."
-
-<p>Ed stayed a week, and had an immense time&mdash;and never suspected that the
-Commodore's shrewd eye was on him, and that he was daily being weighed
-and measured and analyzed and tried and tested.
-
-<p>Yes, he had an immense time; and never wrote home, but saved it all up to
-tell when he should get back. Twice, with proper modesty and decency, he
-proposed to end his visit, but the Commodore said, "No&mdash;wait; leave it to
-me; I'll tell you when to go."
-
-<p>In those days the Commodore was making some of those vast combinations of
-his&mdash;consolidations of warring odds and ends of railroads into harmonious
-systems, and concentrations of floating and rudderless commerce in
-effective centers&mdash;and among other things his farseeing eye had detected
-the convergence of that huge tobacco-commerce, already spoken of, toward
-Memphis, and he had resolved to set his grasp upon it and make it his
-own.
-
-<p>The week came to an end. Then the Commodore said:
-
-<p>"Now you can start home. But first we will have some more talk about
-that tobacco matter. I know you now. I know your abilities as well as
-you know them yourself&mdash;perhaps better. You understand that tobacco
-matter; you understand that I am going to take possession of it, and you
-also understand the plans which I have matured for doing it. What I want
-is a man who knows my mind, and is qualified to represent me in Memphis,
-and be in supreme command of that important business&mdash;and I appoint you."
-
-<p>"Me!"
-
-<p>"Yes. Your salary will be high&mdash;of course-for you are representing me.
-Later you will earn increases of it, and will get them. You will need a
-small army of assistants; choose them yourself&mdash;and carefully. Take no
-man for friendship's sake; but, all things being equal, take the man you
-know, take your friend, in preference to the stranger." After some
-further talk under this head, the Commodore said:
-
-<p>"Good-bye, my boy, and thank Alf for me, for sending you to me."
-
-<p>When Ed reached Memphis he rushed down to the wharf in a fever to tell
-his great news and thank the boys over and over again for thinking to
-give him the letter to Mr. Vanderbilt. It happened to be one of those
-idle times. Blazing hot noonday, and no sign of life on the wharf. But
-as Ed threaded his way among the freight piles, he saw a white linen
-figure stretched in slumber upon a pile of grain-sacks under an awning,
-and said to himself, "That's one of them," and hastened his step; next,
-he said, "It's Charley&mdash;it's Fairchild good"; and the next moment laid an
-affectionate hand on the sleeper's shoulder. The eyes opened lazily,
-took one glance, the face blanched, the form whirled itself from the
-sack-pile, and in an instant Ed was alone and Fairchild was flying for
-the wharf-boat like the wind!
-
-<p>Ed was dazed, stupefied. Was Fairchild crazy? What could be the meaning
-of this? He started slow and dreamily down toward the wharf-boat; turned
-the corner of a freight-pile and came suddenly upon two of the boys.
-They were lightly laughing over some pleasant matter; they heard his
-step, and glanced up just as he discovered them; the laugh died abruptly;
-and before Ed could speak they were off, and sailing over barrels and
-bales like hunted deer. Again Ed was paralyzed. Had the boys all gone
-mad? What could be the explanation of this extraordinary conduct? And
-so, dreaming along, he reached the wharf-boat, and stepped aboard&mdash;nothing
-but silence there, and vacancy. He crossed the deck, turned the corner
-to go down the outer guard, heard a fervent&mdash;
-
-<p>"O lord!" and saw a white linen form plunge overboard.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p274.jpg (62K)" src="images/p274.jpg" height="1063" width="631">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>The youth came up coughing and strangling, and cried out&mdash;
-
-<p>"Go 'way from here! You let me alone. I didn't do it, I swear I
-didn't!"
-
-<p>"Didn't do what?"
-
-<p>"Give you the&mdash;&mdash;"
-
-<p>"Never mind what you didn't do&mdash;come out of that! What makes you all act
-so? What have I done?"
-
-<p>"You? Why you haven't done anything. But&mdash;&mdash;"
-
-<p>"Well, then, what have you got against me? What do you all treat me so
-for?"
-
-<p>"I&mdash;er&mdash;but haven't you got anything against us?"
-
-<p>"Of course not. What put such a thing into your head?"
-
-<p>"Honor bright&mdash;you haven't?
-
-<p>"Honor bright."
-
-<p>"Swear it!"
-
-<p>"I don't know what in the world you mean, but I swear it, anyway."
-
-<p>"And you'll shake hands with me?"
-
-<p>"Goodness knows I'll be glad to! Why, I'm just starving to shake hands
-with somebody!"
-
-<p>The swimmer muttered, "Hang him, he smelt a rat and never delivered the
-letter!&mdash;but it's all right, I'm not going to fetch up the subject." And
-he crawled out and came dripping and draining to shake hands. First one
-and then another of the conspirators showed up cautiously&mdash;armed to the
-teeth&mdash;took in the amicable situation, then ventured warily forward and
-joined the love-feast.
-
-<p>And to Ed's eager inquiry as to what made them act as they had been
-acting, they answered evasively, and pretended that they had put it up as
-a joke, to see what he would do. It was the best explanation they could
-invent at such short notice. And each said to himself, "He never
-delivered that letter, and the joke is on us, if he only knew it or we
-were dull enough to come out and tell."
-
-<p>Then, of course, they wanted to know all about the trip; and he said&mdash;
-
-<p>"Come right up on the boiler deck and order the drinks&mdash;it's my treat.
-I'm going to tell you all about it. And to-night it's my treat
-again&mdash;and we'll have oysters and a time!"
-
-<p>When the drinks were brought and cigars lighted, Ed said:
-
-<p>"Well, when I delivered the letter to Mr. Vanderbilt&mdash;&mdash;"
-
-<p>"Great Scott!"
-
-<p>"Gracious, how you scared me. What's the matter?"
-
-<p>"Oh&mdash;er&mdash;nothing. Nothing&mdash;it was a tack in the chair-seat," said one.
-
-<p>"But you all said it. However, no matter. When I delivered the
-letter&mdash;&mdash;"
-
-<p>"Did you deliver it?" And they looked at each other as people might who
-thought that maybe they were dreaming.
-
-<p>Then they settled to listening; and as the story deepened and its marvels
-grew, the amazement of it made them dumb, and the interest of it took
-their breath. They hardly uttered a whisper during two hours, but sat
-like petrifactions and drank in the immortal romance. At last the tale
-was ended, and Ed said&mdash;
-
-<p>"And it's all owing to you, boys, and you'll never find me
-ungrateful&mdash;bless your hearts, the best friends a fellow ever had! You'll all have
-places; I want every one of you. I know you&mdash;I know you 'by the back,'
-as the gamblers say. You're jokers, and all that, but you're sterling,
-with the hallmark on. And Charley Fairchild, you shall be my first
-assistant and right hand, because of your first-class ability, and
-because you got me the letter, and for your father's sake who wrote it
-for me, and to please Mr. Vanderbilt, who said it would! And here's to
-that great man&mdash;drink hearty!"
-
-<p>Yes, when the Moment comes, the Man appears&mdash;even if he is a thousand
-miles away, and has to be discovered by a practical joke.
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<h2><a name="ch29"></a><br><br>CHAPTER XXVIX.</h2>
-
-<p><i>When people do not respect us we are sharply offended; yet deep down in
-his private heart no man much respects himself.</i>
- <center>&mdash;Pudd'nhead Wilson's New Calendar.</center>
-
-<p>Necessarily, the human interest is the first interest in the log-book of
-any country. The annals of Tasmania, in whose shadow we were sailing,
-are lurid with that feature. Tasmania was a convict-dump, in old times;
-this has been indicated in the account of the Conciliator, where
-reference is made to vain attempts of desperate convicts to win to
-permanent freedom, after escaping from Macquarrie Harbor and the "Gates
-of Hell." In the early days Tasmania had a great population of convicts,
-of both sexes and all ages, and a bitter hard life they had. In one spot
-there was a settlement of juvenile convicts&mdash;children&mdash;who had been sent
-thither from their home and their friends on the other side of the globe
-to expiate their "crimes."
-
-<br><br><br><br>
-<center><img alt="p278.jpg (64K)" src="images/p278.jpg" height="1053" width="611">
-</center>
-<br><br><br><br>
-
-<p>In due course our ship entered the estuary called the Derwent, at whose
-head stands Hobart, the capital of Tasmania. The Derwent's shores
-furnish scenery of an interesting sort. The historian Laurie, whose
-book, "The Story of Australasia," is just out, invoices its features with
-considerable truth and intemperance: "The marvelous picturesqueness of
-every point of view, combined with the clear balmy atmosphere and the
-transparency of the ocean depths, must have delighted and deeply
-impressed" the early explorers. "If the rock-bound coasts, sullen,
-defiant, and lowering, seemed uninviting, these were occasionally broken
-into charmingly alluring coves floored with golden sand, clad with
-evergreen shrubbery, and adorned with every variety of indigenous wattle,
-she-oak, wild flower, and fern, from the delicately graceful
-'maiden-hair' to the palm-like 'old man'; while the majestic gum-tree, clean and
-smooth as the mast of 'some tall ammiral' pierces the clear air to the
-height of 230 feet or more."
-
-<p>It looked so to me. "Coasting along Tasman's Peninsula, what a shock of
-pleasant wonder must have struck the early mariner on suddenly sighting
-Cape Pillar, with its cluster of black-ribbed basaltic columns rising to
-a height of 900 feet, the hydra head wreathed in a turban of fleecy
-cloud, the base lashed by jealous waves spouting angry fountains of
-foam."
-
-<p>That is well enough, but I did not suppose those snags were 900 feet
-high. Still they were a very fine show. They stood boldly out by
-themselves, and made a fascinatingly odd spectacle. But there was
-nothing about their appearance to suggest the heads of a hydra. They
-looked like a row of lofty slabs with their upper ends tapered to the
-shape of a carving-knife point; in fact, the early voyager, ignorant of
-their great height, might have mistaken them for a rusty old rank of
-piles that had sagged this way and that out of the perpendicular.
-
-<p>The Peninsula is lofty, rocky, and densely clothed with scrub, or brush,
-or both. It is joined to the main by a low neck. At this junction was
-formerly a convict station called Port Arthur&mdash;a place hard to escape
-from. Behind it was the wilderness of scrub, in which a fugitive would
-soon starve; in front was the narrow neck, with a cordon of chained dogs
-across it, and a line of lanterns, and a fence of living guards, armed.
-We saw the place as we swept by&mdash;that is, we had a glimpse of what we
-were told was the entrance to Port Arthur. The glimpse was worth
-something, as a remembrancer, but that was all.
-
-<p>The voyage thence up the Derwent Frith displays a grand succession of
-fairy visions, in its entire length elsewhere unequaled. In gliding over
-the deep blue sea studded with lovely islets luxuriant to the water's
-edge, one is at a loss which scene to choose for contemplation and to
-admire most. When the Huon and Bruni have been passed, there seems no
-possible chance of a rival; but suddenly Mount Wellington, massive and
-noble like his brother Etna, literally heaves in sight, sternly guarded
-on either hand by Mounts Nelson and Rumney; presently we arrive at
-Sullivan's Cove&mdash;Hobart!
-
-<p>It is an attractive town. It sits on low hills that slope to the
-harbor&mdash;a harbor that looks like a river, and is as smooth as one. Its still
-surface is pictured with dainty reflections of boats and grassy banks and
-luxuriant foliage. Back of the town rise highlands that are clothed in
-woodland loveliness, and over the way is that noble mountain, Wellington,
-a stately bulk, a most majestic pile. How beautiful is the whole region,
-for form, and grouping, and opulence, and freshness of foliage, and
-variety of color, and grace and shapeliness of the hills, the capes, the
-promontories; and then, the splendor of the sunlight, the dim rich
-distances, the charm of the water-glimpses! And it was in this paradise
-that the yellow-liveried convicts were landed, and the Corps-bandits
-quartered, and the wanton slaughter of the kangaroo-chasing black
-innocents consummated on that autumn day in May, in the brutish old time.
-It was all out of keeping with the place, a sort of bringing of heaven
-and hell together.
-
-<p>The remembrance of this paradise reminds me that it was at Hobart that we
-struck the head of the procession of Junior Englands. We were to
-encounter other sections of it in New Zealand, presently, and others
-later in Natal. Wherever the exiled Englishman can find in his new home
-resemblances to his old one, he is touched to the marrow of his being;
-the love that is in his heart inspires his imagination, and these allied
-forces transfigure those resemblances into authentic duplicates of the
-revered originals. It is beautiful, the feeling which works this
-enchantment, and it compels one's homage; compels it, and also compels
-one's assent&mdash;compels it always&mdash;even when, as happens sometimes, one
-does not see the resemblances as clearly as does the exile who is
-pointing them out.
-
-<p>The resemblances do exist, it is quite true; and often they cunningly
-approximate the originals&mdash;but after all, in the matter of certain
-physical patent rights there is only one England. Now that I have
-sampled the globe, I am not in doubt. There is a beauty of Switzerland,
-and it is repeated in the glaciers and snowy ranges of many parts of the
-earth; there is a beauty of the fiord, and it is repeated in New Zealand
-and Alaska; there is a beauty of Hawaii, and it is repeated in ten
-thousand islands of the Southern seas; there is a beauty of the prairie
-and the plain, and it is repeated here and there in the earth; each of
-these is worshipful, each is perfect in its way, yet holds no monopoly of
-its beauty; but that beauty which is England is alone&mdash;it has no
-duplicate.
-
-<p>It is made up of very simple details&mdash;just grass, and trees, and shrubs,
-and roads, and hedges, and gardens, and houses, and vines, and churches,
-and castles, and here and there a ruin&mdash;and over it all a mellow
-dream-haze of history. But its beauty is incomparable, and all its own.
-
-<p>Hobart has a peculiarity&mdash;it is the neatest town that the sun shines on;
-and I incline to believe that it is also the cleanest. However that may
-be, its supremacy in neatness is not to be questioned. There cannot be
-another town in the world that has no shabby exteriors; no rickety gates
-and fences, no neglected houses crumbling to ruin, no crazy and unsightly
-sheds, no weed-grown front-yards of the poor, no back-yards littered with
-tin cans and old boots and empty bottles, no rubbish in the gutters, no
-clutter on the sidewalks, no outer-borders fraying out into dirty lanes
-and tin-patched huts. No, in Hobart all the aspects are tidy, and all a
-comfort to the eye; the modestest cottage looks combed and brushed, and
-has its vines, its flowers, its neat fence, its neat gate, its comely cat
-asleep on the window ledge.
-
-<p>We had a glimpse of the museum, by courtesy of the American gentleman who
-is curator of it. It has samples of half-a-dozen different kinds of
-marsupials&mdash;[A marsupial is a plantigrade vertebrate whose specialty is
-its pocket. In some countries it is extinct, in the others it is rare.
-The first American marsupials were Stephen Girard, Mr. Astor and the
-opossum; the principal marsupials of the Southern Hemisphere are Mr.
-Rhodes, and the kangaroo. I, myself, am the latest marsupial. Also, I
-might boast that I have the largest pocket of them all. But there is
-nothing in that.]&mdash;one, the "Tasmanian devil;" that is, I think he was
-one of them. And there was a fish with lungs. When the water dries up
-it can live in the mud. Most curious of all was a parrot that kills
-sheep. On one great sheep-run this bird killed a thousand sheep in a
-whole year. He doesn't want the whole sheep, but only the kidney-fat.
-This restricted taste makes him an expensive bird to support. To get the
-fat he drives his beak in and rips it out; the wound is mortal. This
-parrot furnishes a notable example of evolution brought about by changed
-conditions. When the sheep culture was introduced, it presently brought
-famine to the parrot by exterminating a kind of grub which had always
-thitherto been the parrot's diet. The miseries of hunger made the bird
-willing to eat raw flesh, since it could get no other food, and it began
-to pick remnants of meat from sheep skins hung out on the fences to dry.
-It soon came to prefer sheep meat to any other food, and by and by it
-came to prefer the kidney-fat to any other detail of the sheep. The
-parrot's bill was not well shaped for digging out the fat, but Nature
-fixed that matter; she altered the bill's shape, and now the parrot can
-dig out kidney-fat better than the Chief Justice of the Supreme Court, or
-anybody else, for that matter&mdash;even an Admiral.
-
-<p>And there was another curiosity&mdash;quite a stunning one, I thought:
-Arrow-heads and knives just like those which Primeval Man made out of flint,
-and thought he had done such a wonderful thing&mdash;yes, and has been humored
-and coddled in that superstition by this age of admiring scientists until
-there is probably no living with him in the other world by now. Yet here
-is his finest and nicest work exactly duplicated in our day; and by
-people who have never heard of him or his works: by aborigines who lived
-in the islands of these seas, within our time. And they not only
-duplicated those works of art but did it in the brittlest and most
-treacherous of substances&mdash;glass: made them out of old brandy bottles
-flung out of the British camps; millions of tons of them. It is time for
-Primeval Man to make a little less noise, now. He has had his day. He
-is not what he used to be. We had a drive through a bloomy and odorous
-fairy-land, to the Refuge for the Indigent&mdash;a spacious and comfortable
-home, with hospitals, etc., for both sexes. There was a crowd in there,
-of the oldest people I have ever seen. It was like being suddenly set
-down in a new world&mdash;a weird world where Youth has never been, a world
-sacred to Age, and bowed forms, and wrinkles. Out of the 359 persons
-present, 223 were ex-convicts, and could have told stirring tales, no
-doubt, if they had been minded to talk; 42 of the 359 were past 80, and
-several were close upon 90; the average age at death there is 76 years.
-As for me, I have no use for that place; it is too healthy. Seventy is
-old enough&mdash;after that, there is too much risk. Youth and gaiety might
-vanish, any day&mdash;and then, what is left? Death in life; death without
-its privileges, death without its benefits. There were 185 women in that
-Refuge, and 81 of them were ex-convicts.
-
-<p>The steamer disappointed us. Instead of making a long visit at Hobart,
-as usual, she made a short one. So we got but a glimpse of Tasmania, and
-then moved on.
-
-
-
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