diff options
131 files changed, 12426 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/29382-h.zip b/29382-h.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d1a6c48 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h.zip diff --git a/29382-h/29382-h.htm b/29382-h/29382-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..768b506 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/29382-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6692 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=utf-8" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Ladies’ Work-table Book, by Anonymous. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + + p { margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; + text-indent: 1em; + } + p.noindent {text-indent: 0em;} + p.titlepage {text-indent: 0em; text-align: center; } + + h1,h2,h3 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; + } + .chapterhead {margin-top: 4em; font-weight: normal;} + .sectionhead {margin-top: 2em; font-weight: normal;} + .chapno {font-size: 90%;} + + hr { width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; + } + .chapbreak {width: 65%; } + .decshort {width: 3em; border: solid black 1px; margin-top: 0em; margin-bottom: 0em;} + + img {border: 0;} + + table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + td {padding-left: 0.5em; padding-right: 0.5em; vertical-align: top;} + .tdr {text-align: right;} + .chapter {text-align: center; padding-top: 1.5em;} + .canvastype {text-align: center; padding-top: 0.5em; border: 1px solid black;} + .canvasdetail {border-left: 1px solid black;} + .canvasdetailr {border-left: 1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black;} + .canvasfirstnos {padding-left: 2em; border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;} + .canvasfirstnosr {padding-left: 2em; border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black;} + .canvasnos {padding-left: 2em; border-left: 1px solid black;} + .canvasnosr {padding-left: 2em; border-left: 1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black;} + .canvaslastnos {padding-left: 2em; border-left: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;} + .canvaslastnosr {padding-left: 2em; border-left: 1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;} + .diagram1 {text-align: center; border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black;} + .diagram2 {text-align: center; border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-right: 1px solid black;} + .diagram3 {text-align: center; border-left: 1px solid black; border-top: 1px solid black; border-bottom: 1px solid black;} + .diagram4 {text-align: center; border: 1px solid black;} + + body{margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; + } + + .pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + font-style: normal; + font-weight: normal; + font-variant: normal; + text-align: right; + text-indent: 0em; + } /* page numbers */ + + .smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + .smrom {font-size: smaller;} + + .imagepara {clear: both;} + + .figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center;} + + .figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-right: 0.5em; margin-bottom: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} + + .footnotes {border-top: solid 1px; text-indent: 0.5em; font-size: 0.9em; text-align: justify; } + .label {font-size: 80%; vertical-align: 0.2em; } + .fnanchor {vertical-align: 0.3em; font-size: .8em; padding-left: 0.1em;} + + ul.ix {list-style-type: none; font-size:inherit;} + + .tn {background-color: #EEE; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em;} + + .poem {padding-left: 20%; padding-right: 10%; text-align: left; text-indent: 0em;} + .i5 {margin-left: 5em;} + .i7 {margin-left: 7em;} + + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Work-Table Book, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Ladies' Work-Table Book + Containing Clear and Practical Instructions in Plain and + Fancy Needlework, Embroidery, Knitting, Netting and Crochet + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: July 12, 2009 [EBook #29382] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + +<p class="noindent">Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A <a href="#trans_note">list</a> of these changes +is found at the end of the text.</p> +</div> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[i]</a></span></p> + + +<h1 class="chapterhead"><span style="font-size: 60%;">THE</span><br /> + +<span style="font-size: 80%;">LADIES’</span><br /> + +WORK-TABLE BOOK;</h1> + +<p class="titlepage"><span style="font-size: 60%;">CONTAINING</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 80%;">CLEAR AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS</span><br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 60%;">IN</span><br /> +PLAIN AND FANCY NEEDLEWORK,<br /> +<br /> +<span style="font-size: 80%;">EMBROIDERY, KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET.</span></p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 2em;">WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS,<br /> + +<span style="font-size: 80%;">ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE VARIOUS STITCHES IN THOSE USEFUL AND FASHIONABLE +EMPLOYMENTS.</span></p> + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 3em;">NEW-YORK:<br /> +J. WINCHESTER, 30 ANN-STREET</p> + +<hr class="decshort" /> + +<p class="titlepage">1844.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[ii]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[iii]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">INTRODUCTION.</h2> + + +<p><span class="smcap">If</span> it be true that “home scenes are rendered happy or miserable in +proportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them by +woman—as sister, wife, or mother”—it will be admitted as a fact of the +utmost importance, that every thing should be done to improve the taste, +cultivate the understanding, and elevate the character of those “high +priestesses” of our domestic sanctuaries. The page of history informs +us, that the progress of any nation in morals, civilization, and +refinement, is in proportion to the elevated or degraded position in +which woman is placed in society; and the same instructive volume will +enable us to perceive, that the fanciful creations of the needle, have +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[iv]</a></span>exerted a marked influence over the pursuits and destinies of man.</p> + +<p>To blend the useful, with the ornamental and to exhibit the gushing +forth of mind, vitalised by the warm and glowing affections of the +heart, is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of woman. Without her +influence, life would be arrayed in sables, and the proud lords of +creation would be infinitely more miserable and helpless than the beasts +that perish. To render then those “terrestrial angels” all that our +fondest wishes could desire, or our most vivid imaginations picture, +must be, under any circumstances, a pleasing and delightful employment; +while for a father or a brother to behold her returning all the care +bestowed upon her, by the thousand offices of love, to the performance +to which she alone is equal, is doubtless one of the most exalted +sources of human <a name="corr1" id="corr1"></a>felicity.</p> + +<p>Providence has, in a remarkable manner, adapted woman’s tastes and +propensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the scale of +being. Tender and affectionate, it is her highest bliss to minister to +the wants, the convenience, or the pleasure of those she loves; and +hence, her inventive powers have been, in all ages, called into early +and active exercise, in the fabrication of those articles calculated to +accomplish those desirable ends. Amongst these, Useful and Ornamental +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[v]</a></span>Needlework, Knitting, and Netting, occupy a distinguished place, and +are capable of being made, not only sources of personal gratification, +but of high moral benefit, and the means of developing in surpassing +loveliness and grace, some of the highest and noblest feelings of the +soul.</p> + +<p>To become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition to +every fair <a name="corr2" id="corr2"></a>one. Never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive, as +when engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties, and +domestic cares. The subjects treated of in this little manual are of +vast importance, and to them we are indebted for a large amount of the +comforts we enjoy; as, without their aid, we should be reduced to a +state of misery and destitution of which it is hardly possible to form +an adequate conception. To learn, then, <a name="corr3" id="corr3"></a>how to fabricate articles of +dress and utility for family use, or, in the case of ladies blessed with +the means of affluence, for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor, +should form one of the most prominent branches of female education. And +yet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with +the general state of society, that this is a branch of study to which +nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school +instruction. The effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[vi]</a></span>after life, when, from a variety of circumstances, such knowledge would +be of the highest advantage, and subservient to the noblest ends, either +of domestic comfort, or of active and generous benevolence.</p> + +<p>The records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the art of +needlework; and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the earliest +developments of female taste and ingenuity. As civilization increased, +new wants called forth new exertions; the loom poured forth its +multifarious materials, and the needle, with its accompanying +implements, gave form and <a name="corr4" id="corr4"></a>utility to the fabrics submitted to its +operations. No one can look upon <span class="smrom">THE NEEDLE</span>, without emotion; it is a +constant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life. We find it the +first instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood, and it +is found to retain its usefulness and charm, even when trembling in the +grasp of fast declining age. The little girl first employs it in the +dressing of her doll: then she is taught its still higher use, in making +up some necessary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent. +Approaching to womanhood, additional preparations of articles of use, as +ornaments of herself and others, call for its daily employment; and with +what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom, as +beneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[vii]</a></span> or adorn a +bride, becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill and +fond regard. To the adornments of the bridal bed, the numerous +preparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger, and the various +comforts and conveniences of life, the service of this little instrument +is indispensible. Often too is it found aiding in the preparation of +gifts of friendship, the effects of benevolence, and the works of +charity. Many of those articles, which minister so essentially to the +solace of the afflicted, would be unknown without it; and its friendly +aid does not desert us, even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction. +By its aid, we form the last covering which is to enwrap the body of a +departed loved one, and prepare those sable habiliments, which custom +has adopted as the external signs of mourning.</p> + +<p>The needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to the +female heart; and we would impress this truth seriously upon their +recollection, that as there is</p> + +<p class="poem"><span class="i5">“Sermons in stones,</span><br /> +And good in every thing.”</p> + +<p>so the needle they so often use, is, or may be, a silent but salutary +moral teacher. They all know that however good the eye of a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[viii]</a></span> needle may +be, if it were rusted and pointless, it would be of little use. Let them +also recollect, that though it may posses the finest point and polish in +the world, if destitute of the eye, it would be of no use at all. The +lesson we wish them to derive from hence, is this; that as it is the eye +which holds the thread, and that it is by the thread alone that the +needle becomes useful, so it is the eye of intelligence directed to the +attainment of useful ends, that gives all the real value to the point +and polish, which is so much admired in the educated female; and that +unless the intellectual powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits of +goodness, all other endowments will be useless to their possessor. Let +them learn also, not to despise such of their companions as, though +intelligent and useful, are neither possessed of wit or elegance equal +to their own. Circumstances may have rendered them, like the needle, +rusty and pointless; but the eye of intelligence is there, and they may +still be useful.</p> + +<p>The want of a work containing clear instructions, without unnecessary +diffuseness, by which the uninitiated may become their own instructors, +has long been sensibly felt; and this want, the following pages are +intended to supply. Our aim is, not to make<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[ix]</a></span> young ladies servile +copyists, but to lead them to the formation of habits of thought and +reflection, which may issue in higher attainments than the knitting of a +shawl, or the netting of a <a name="corr5" id="corr5"></a>purse.</p> + +<p>Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the +development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all +worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to +flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and +admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make +all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the +happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this +end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, +in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish +them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some +noble purpose, which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the +well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the +elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, +by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a +leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such +they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[x]</a></span> and +placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important +duties, which we owe to Heaven, to our fellow beings, and to ourselves.</p> + +<p>We are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the attainment +of moral ends; and to lay that foundation of intellectual superiority, +and affectionate regard, for the comfort and happiness of others, which +can alone give light and animation, sweetness and blooming freshness, to +the interesting scenes of future life. All engagements, which are +calculated to elevate, soften, and harmonize the human character, have +this tendency; and it is in the assured conviction that the employments +here treated of, are, when cultivated in due subordination to higher +duties, well adapted to secure these objects, and to promote these +domestic ends, that the Ladies’ Work-Table Book has been prepared, and +is now presented to the lovely daughters of our land. The public will be +the best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort. Small as the +work is, it has not been produced without much labor, and considerable +exercise of thought; and it is dedicated to our fair countrywomen, in +the fervent hope, that it will not be found altogether unworthy of their +favorable notice and regard.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[xi]</a></span>In concluding these introductory remarks, we wish to say a word or two +to the parents and guardians of those, whose excellence of character is +so essential to the welfare of our beloved country. We trust by you, our +little manual will be cordially approved, and placed, as a memento of +affection, in the hands of those you most desire to see models of +sincerity, elegance, and accomplishments. This will be well; but we +trust the matter will not be allowed to rest there. It is not when good +instructors and proper books are provided for the young, that the duties +of the parental relationship are performed. No; care must be taken to +give efficiency to the means thus called into requisition, by the most +assiduous care, devoted attention, and judiciously expressed approval on +the part of those who claim the highest regard from the rising +generation. The path of education is not always strewed with flowers, +nor can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless a +foundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid, on which the +superstructure may securely rest.</p> + +<p>It has been well remarked “that intellect may be cultivated at school, +but that the affections of the heart can only be properly developed amid +the scenes of home.” Our aim in this work has<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[xii]</a></span> been, while seeking to +promote the purposes of genuine education, to raise high the moral +sentiments, and cultivate to an eminent degree the best sensibilities of +the soul. In this we ask for your cordial and careful co-operation. We +know the influence of a judicious mother, and we confidently commend our +labor to your favorable regard.</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[xiii]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead">CONTENTS.</h2> + + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="table of contents"> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Materials and Implements for Working</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">17</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Plain Needlework—Explanation of Stitches</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">28</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Plain Needlework—Instructions in the Preparation of Body Linen</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">37</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Plain Needlework—Instructions in the Preparation of House Linen</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">54</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[xiv]</a></span><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Plain Needlework—Miscellaneous Instructions</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">59</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Fancy Needlework—Explanation of Stitches</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">63</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Fancy Needlework—Explanation of Patterns</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">71</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Fancy Needlework—Instructions in Embroidery</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">79</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Fancy Needlework—Preparation of Frames</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">82</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Fancy Needlework—Application of Fancy Needlework to Useful Purposes</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">88</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[xv]</a></span><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Fancy Needlework—Special Instructions</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">91</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Knitting—Explanation of Stitches</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">97</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Knitting—Examples in Knitting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">111</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Netting—Explanation of Stitches</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">125</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Netting—Examples in Netting</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">135</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">CHAPTER XVI.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Crochet—Explanation of the Principal Stitches in Crochet Work</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">142</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[xvi]</a></span><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">CHAPTER XVII.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Crochet—Examples in Crochet</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">148</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">CHAPTER XVIII.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Tatting—Explanation of Stitches</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVIII">153</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="chapter" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">CHAPTER XIX.</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Concluding Remarks</td> + <td class="tdr"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">155</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a><span style="font-size: 80%;">THE</span><br /> +LADIES’ WORK-TABLE BOOK.</h2> + + +<h2 class="sectionhead"><span class="chapno">CHAPTER I.</span><br /> + +MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MATERIALS_FOR_PLAIN_NEEDLEWORK" id="MATERIALS_FOR_PLAIN_NEEDLEWORK"></a>MATERIALS FOR PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possible to pay +too much attention; since, on the judicious selection of materials, +depends, to a vast extent, the success of that prudent and +well-regulated economy, which is so essential to the welfare and +prosperity of every family. On this account, we have thought it right to +place before our readers the following observations, which should be +carefully attended to, as of the utmost importance. In purchasing goods, +be careful to examine the quality; and, if not experienced in such +matters, take with you an experienced friend. Cheap goods generally +prove the dearest in the end. The following rules may assist you in this +respect, if under the necessity of relying upon your own judgment. Be +careful, in purchasing articles, such as linen, calico, &c., for a +specific purpose, to have it the proper width. A great deal of waste may +be incurred, by inattention to this important direction.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Calico</span> is often so dressed up, as to make it extremely difficult to +ascertain its real quality: hence, it is best to buy it undressed. It +should be soft, and free from specks. It is of various widths,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span> and of +almost all prices. A good article, at a medium price, will be found +cheapest in the end.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Linen</span> is of various qualities. That which is called Suffolk hemp is +considered the best. Irish linen is also in great repute. But you must +be careful to escape imposition; as there are plenty of imitations, +which are good for nothing.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Muslin Checks</span> are much used for caps, &c., and are of various qualities. +You may form a good judgment of these, by observing the thin places +between the checks and the threads; if the former be good, and the +latter even, they may generally be relied on.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Blue Checks.</span>—These may be procured either of cotton or linen; but the +linen ones, though highest in price, are cheapest in the end: they will +wear double the length of time that the cotton ones will.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Prints.</span>—Give a good price, if you wish to secure a good article. Some +colors, as red, pink, lilac, bright brown, buff, and blue, wear well; +green, violet, and some other colors are very liable to fade. The best +way is to procure a patch, and wash half of it. This will test the +color, and may prevent much disappointment.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Flannels.</span>—The Welsh flannels are generally preferred, as those that are +the most durable. Lancashire flannels are cheapest, but are far inferior +in quality. You may know the one from the other by the color: the +flannels of Lancashire are of a yellowish hue; those of Wales are a kind +of bluish gray tint.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Woollen Cloths.</span>—These vary exceedingly, as to quality. The low-priced +ones are not worth half the purchase money. Good woollen cloth is +smooth, and has a good nap. If the sample shown you, be destitute of +these qualities, have nothing to do with it, unless you want to be +cheated.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Stuffs.</span>—The quality of these is sometimes very difficult <a name="corr6" id="corr6"></a>to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>detect. +Holding them up to the light is a good plan. You should also be +particular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indifferently +managed, and the stuff is dashed. Black dye is liable to injure the +material. Low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Crape.</span>—This is often damaged in the dying. You should spread it over a +white surface before you purchase it, as by that means, the blemishes in +the material, if any, will be more likely to appear.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Silks.</span>—These are, if good, costly; and great care should be exercised +in selecting them. They should not be too stiff, as in that case they +are liable to crack; and on the other hand, they should not be too thin, +as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper. A medium +thickness and stiffness is the best. If plain, you must be careful that +there are no stains or specks in them; and if figured, it is advisable +to have the pattern equally good on both <a name="corr7" id="corr7"></a>sides. This will enhance the +price at first, but you will find it to be good economy afterward. In +silks that are to be sold cheap, a kind of camel’s hair is frequently +introduced. This may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected +silk cross ways, and if camel’s hair be mixed with it, it will spring +with a kind of whirring sound. This should be attended to.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Satin.</span>—It is of various qualities and prices. The best is soft and +thick. When used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross way, as it +then looks better, and has a much richer appearance than when put on +straight.</p> + +<p>These general observations will be of great use, and should be well +impressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into exercise when +needed.</p> + +<p>In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sewing-silk +should be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span> threads and +cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. +Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, +should be kept folded up; as exposure to the air not only tarnishes +them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MATERIALS_FOR_FANCY_NEEDLEWORK" id="MATERIALS_FOR_FANCY_NEEDLEWORK"></a>MATERIALS <a name="corr8" id="corr8"></a>FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h3> + +<p>Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch with +double wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c.</p> + +<p>Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch, over +one thread, with single wool. If used for grounding, work in two +threads. This will accelerate the work, and look equally well.</p> + +<p>Silk Leaves.—If no grounding is required, work in tent stitch. The +pattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the material. +The finer the canvas, the larger the pattern.</p> + +<p>Color.—An attention to shade is of the utmost consequence; as on this, +in an eminent degree, depends the perfection of the work. The shades +must be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony of +coloring will be destroyed. The canvas must be more distinct in tent +stitch than in cross stitch, or rather more strongly contrasted, +especially in the dark shades of flowers: without attention to this +point, a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained.</p> + +<p>Wool, (English and German) white, black, and various colors.—Two, +three, four, five, or six shades of each color, as the nature of the +work may require. The same observation applies to silk and cotton, in +cases where those materials are used.</p> + +<p>Split wool, for mosaic work.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>Silk. Split silk. Floss. Half twist. Deckers. China silk. Fine purse +silk.</p> + +<p>Cotton, of various kinds.</p> + +<p>Gold twist. Silver thread. Chenille.</p> + +<p>Beads. Thick and transparent gold. Bright and burnt steel. Silver +plated, &c.</p> + +<p>Perforated cards.</p> + +<p>Canvas, called bolting, for bead work.</p> + + +<p class="titlepage"><a name="SCALE_OF_CANVASES" id="SCALE_OF_CANVASES"></a>SCALE OF CANVASES.</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" summary="scale of canvases"> +<tr> + <td class="canvastype" colspan="3">English Canvas.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasdetail">Canvas No.</td> + <td class="canvasdetail">Cross stitch.</td> + <td class="canvasdetailr">Tent stitch.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasfirstnos">16</td> + <td class="canvasfirstnos">4½</td> + <td class="canvasfirstnosr">9</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">18</td> + <td class="canvasnos">5</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">20</td> + <td class="canvasnos">5½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">11</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">22</td> + <td class="canvasnos">6</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">12</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">24</td> + <td class="canvasnos">6½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">13</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">26</td> + <td class="canvasnos">7</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">14</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">28</td> + <td class="canvasnos">7½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">30</td> + <td class="canvasnos">8</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">16</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">32</td> + <td class="canvasnos">9</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">18</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">34</td> + <td class="canvasnos">9½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">19</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">36</td> + <td class="canvasnos">10</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">38</td> + <td class="canvasnos">10¼</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">21</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">40</td> + <td class="canvasnos">11</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">22</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">42</td> + <td class="canvasnos">11½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">23</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">45</td> + <td class="canvasnos">12½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">25</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">48</td> + <td class="canvasnos">13</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">26</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">50</td> + <td class="canvasnos">14</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">28</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">55</td> + <td class="canvasnos">15</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">60</td> + <td class="canvasnos">17</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">34</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvastype" colspan="3">Silk Canvas.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasdetail">Canvas No.</td> + <td class="canvasdetail">Cross stitch.</td> + <td class="canvasdetailr">Tent stitch.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasfirstnos"> </td> + <td class="canvasfirstnos">14</td> + <td class="canvasfirstnosr">28</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvastype" colspan="3">French Canvas.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasdetail">Canvas No.</td> + <td class="canvasdetail">Cross stitch.</td> + <td class="canvasdetailr">Tent stitch.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasfirstnos">10</td> + <td class="canvasfirstnos">6½</td> + <td class="canvasfirstnosr">13</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">12</td> + <td class="canvasnos">7½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">15</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">14</td> + <td class="canvasnos">8½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">17</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">16</td> + <td class="canvasnos">9½</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">19</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">18</td> + <td class="canvasnos">10</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">19</td> + <td class="canvasnos">11</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">22</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">20</td> + <td class="canvasnos">12</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">24</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">22</td> + <td class="canvasnos">13</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">26</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">24</td> + <td class="canvasnos">14</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">28</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">26</td> + <td class="canvasnos"> </td> + <td class="canvasnosr"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvasnos">30</td> + <td class="canvasnos">15</td> + <td class="canvasnosr">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="canvaslastnos">40</td> + <td class="canvaslastnos">16</td> + <td class="canvaslastnosr">32</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MATERIALS_FOR_EMBROIDERY" id="MATERIALS_FOR_EMBROIDERY"></a>MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERY.</h3> + +<p>Silk, satin, velvet, and cloth.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MATERIALS_FOR_KNITTING_NETTING_AND_CROCHET" id="MATERIALS_FOR_KNITTING_NETTING_AND_CROCHET"></a>MATERIALS FOR KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Silk.</span>—This material is extensively used in the various productions of +which we are about to treat. The kinds usually employed in <a name="corr9" id="corr9"></a>Knitting, +Netting, and Crochet, are purse silk, or twist; coarse and fine netting +silk; second sized purse twist; plain silk; China<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span> silk; extra fine, and +finest netting silk; second sized netting silk; coarse and fine +chenille, and crochet silk. These are so well known that it would be a +waste of time to describe them in detail. They are of a great variety of +colors, and of different qualities; some sorts being much more durable, +both in fabric and color, than <a name="corr10" id="corr10"></a>others. No young lady should trust, at +first, to her own judgment in making the selection: but a little +attention will soon render her a proficient in the art of choosing the +most profitable materials. The China silks of the French surpass all +others, of that kind, with which we are acquainted, both as to the +nature of tints, and the brilliancy of the various dyes and shades.</p> + +<p><a name="corr11" id="corr11"></a><span class="smcap">Wool.</span>—This is of various colors and shades; German wool, single, and +double; Hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, seven, and +eight threads; embroidery fleecy Shetland wool; English wool, coarse +yarn, for <a name="corr12" id="corr12"></a>mitts.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="BRIEF_DESCRIPTION_OF_WOOLS" id="BRIEF_DESCRIPTION_OF_WOOLS"></a>BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF WOOLS.</h3> + +<p>German wool is the produce of the merino breed, in its highest state of +cultivation, and is the best sheep’s wool we possess. The merino fleece +is brought to the greatest perfection in Saxony, and the adjacent +states. It is chiefly manufactured for the purposes of needle-work, &c., +at Gotha; the dyeing of it is performed at Berlin, and in other parts of +Germany. The wools of Germany are, in fineness and softness, much, +superior to those of Spain. The wool is prepared in various sizes, and +for some kinds of work, may be split with great advantage. A large +quantity is imported into this country in a raw state, and is dyed and +manufactured here. Some of this is equal to the wools prepared in +Germany, as to quality; but the brilliancy of the color will not bear +comparison.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span> This remark does not extend to the black German wool, +prepared in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared on +the continent. Much wool, of a very superior quality is annually +prepared for the market; and so great is its resemblance to a superior +article, that it requires much attention, and an experienced eye, to +detect the fraud. English wool, or what is often called embroidery wool, +is much harsher than that of Germany; yet it is of a very superior kind, +and much to be preferred for some kinds of work. The dye of several +colors of English lamb’s wool is equal to that of the best dyes of +Germany; especially scarlet and some of the shades of blue, green, and +gold color, which for brilliancy and permanency, may justly claim +equality with the most finished productions of the continental states.</p> + +<p>Worsted is another description of our native produce, and is extensively +used for a great variety of useful purposes, which are familiar to every +one. A great portion of the needle-work of the last century was done in +a fine kind of worsted, called <span class="smrom">CREWELS</span>: and some specimens still remain, +which do great credit to the venerable grandames of the present +generation. Yarn is a coarse kind of worsted, much employed in making +garden nets, and for various other purposes. Fleecy (English) is +manufactured from the Leicestershire breed, and is much used in knitting +and netting: it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from an +eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. They are made up of threads, +varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. They are applied +to crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work named. German +fleecy, thought but little used, is much superior to that of this +country. Hamburgh wool is an excellent article, but has not hitherto +been much in request. Great care is necessary, in selecting wool of good +quality: but let the young novice<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span> give to the subject her best +attention; and should she find herself sometimes deceived, still +persevere, remembering that “practice makes perfect.”</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Cotton</span>, of various sizes, as numbered from one to six, or higher if +required. In the choice of this material, much care is needed, not only +in the selection of colors and shades, but also to ascertain if the +color has been stained with a permanent dye.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Down.</span>—This is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions, muffs, &c., +and is too well known to need any description here.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gold and Silver Thread and Cord.</span>—The precious metals are now very +generally employed in the ornamental parts of all kinds of fancy work. +Gold and silver threads consists of a thread of silk, round which is +spun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal required. For gold, silver or +copper gilt wire is employed, as pure gold could not be so easily +wrought. These threads can be employed in almost any way which the taste +of the fair artist may induce her to <a name="corr13" id="corr13"></a>devise. Besides the thread, gold +and silver cord is also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful, +when employed with taste and judgment. This material is a twist, and is +composed of different quantities of threads, according to the thickness +required. Much care is required in working with it, or the beauty of the +material will be spoilt. It is much used in crochet, and without due +attention, the point of the needle is liable to catch the cord, and to +break the wire, which would entirely destroy the beauty of the +performance.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Beads.</span>—These beautiful fabrications of art, are composed of gold, +silver, polished steel, and glass. There is also a beautiful sort called +garnet beads, with gold points. All these can be procured at any of the +establishments for the sale of fancy articles, and are to be employed as +the judgment or fancy may direct. The<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span> gold beads are used in making all +kinds of knitting, netting, and crochet, and look well either by +themselves, or when in connection with those of the other materials +named. Glass beads, may be procured of any variety of color, and when in +combination with gold, silver, or steel, form a beautiful relief.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_FANCY_NEEDLEWORK" id="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_FANCY_NEEDLEWORK"></a>NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h3> + +<p>Frames. Cross stitch needles. Sewing needles. Meshes, of various +sizes—at least three. Chenille Needles. Pair of long sharp-pointed +scissors. Cartridge Paper. Tissue <a name="corr14" id="corr14"></a>Paper. A fine piercer. Seam piercer. +Camel’s hair brushes.</p> + +<p>Mixture of white lead and gum water, to draw patterns for dark +materials.</p> + +<p>Mixture of stone blue and gum water, for light colors.</p> + +<p>Black lead pencils.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_KNITTING" id="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_KNITTING"></a>NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR KNITTING.</h3> + +<p>Needles of various sizes. The Nos. referred to are those of the knitting +needle gauge. Needles pointed at either end, for Turkish knitting. +Ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. A knitting sheath, &c., +to be fastened on the waist of the knitter, toward the right hand, for +the purpose of keeping the needle in a steady and proper position.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_NETTING" id="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_NETTING"></a>NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR NETTING.</h3> + +<p>A pin or mesh, on which to form the loops. A needle called a netting +needle, formed into a kind of fork, with two prongs at each end. The +ends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point, not fastened like the +eye of a common needle, but left open, that the thread or twine may pass +between them, and be wound upon the needle. The prongs are brought to a +point, in order that the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span> needle may pass through a small loop without +interruption. Twine to form foundations. A fine long darning needle for +bead work. Meshes of various, sizes from No. 1 to 11. Flat meshes, and +ivory meshes; also of various sizes. The gauge is the same as that for +knitting-needles.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_CROCHET" id="NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_CROCHET"></a>NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR CROCHET.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 381px;"> +<a href="images/illus-026-full.png"><img src="images/illus-026.png" width="381" height="41" alt="Crochet hook" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p>Ivory crochet needles of various sizes. Steel crochet needles. Rug +needles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors. These implements +should be disposed in a regular and orderly manner, as should also the +materials for working. Order and regularity are matters but too +frequently neglected in the gay and buoyant season of youth; and this +fault, which is the parent of so much annoyance in after life, is but +too generally overlooked by those whose duty it is to correct these +incipient seeds of future mischief. No pursuit should be entered into by +the young, without having some moral end in view, and this is especially +needful to be observed in cases, where at first sight, it might appear a +matter of indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or of +mere relaxation. We earnestly entreat our young friends, never to +forget, that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sacrifice +to their heavenly Father, if they assiduously endeavor to make the +habits they form in their seasons of relaxation from graver studies, +conduce to the development of the higher faculties of their nature, and +subordinate preparations for a more exalted state of being, than any +which this transitory scene can of itself<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span> present to their +contemplation and pursuits. Dyer, speaking of Tapestry, has beautifully +said—</p> + +<p class="poem"><span class="i7">“This bright art</span><br /> +Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan lands,<br /> +While she assayed with rage of holy war<br /> +To desolate their fields; but old the skill:<br /> +Long were the Phrygian’s pict’ring looms renown’d;<br /> +Tyre also, wealthy seat of art, excell’d,<br /> +And elder Sidon, in th’ historic web.”</p> + +<p>But we would have our fair friends to place before them a high and a +definite object. Let them seek, like the excellent Miss Linwood—</p> + +<p class="poem">“To raise at once our reverence and delight,<br /> +To elevate the mind and charm the sight,<br /> +To pour religion through the attentive eye,<br /> +And waft the soul on wings of <a name="corr15" id="corr15"></a>extacy;<br /> +Bid mimic art with nature’s self to vie,<br /> +And raise the spirit to its native <a name="corr16" id="corr16"></a>sky.”</p> + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER II.</span><br /> + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES" id="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES"></a>EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.</h3> + +<p>Before commencing those directions, which we deem it necessary to place +before our readers, in reference to this important portion of the +work-table manual, we wish to say a word or two to our fair +countrywomen, on the importance of a general and somewhat extensive +acquaintance with those arts, on which so much of the comfort of +individual and domestic life depends. Economy of time, labor, and +expenses, is an essential requisite in every family; and will ever claim +a due share of attention, from her who is desirous of fulfilling with +credit to herself and advantage to others, the allotted duties of her +appointed station. To those, who are at the head of the majority of +families, an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plain +needlework is indispensable. The means placed at their disposal are +limited; in many instances, extremely so: and to make the most of these +means, generally provided by the continual care and unremitting +attention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which cannot +be violated without the entailment of consequences which every well +regulated mind must be anxious to avoid.</p> + +<p>The following are the principal <a name="corr17" id="corr17"></a>stitches used in plain needlework.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Sewing_and_Felling" id="Sewing_and_Felling"></a>Sewing and Felling.</span>—If you have selvages, join them together and sew +them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and +the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. This +is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned face to face, and seamed +together; the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep +enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. Then flatten the +seam with the thumb, turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming. +The thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Hemmings" id="Hemmings"></a>Hemmings.</span>—Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and be +careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left; +bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand. +Fasten the thread <a name="corr18" id="corr18"></a>without a knot, and when you finish, sew several +stitches close together, and cut off the thread.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="German_Hemming" id="German_Hemming"></a>German Hemming.</span>—Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do +it, as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below +the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the +other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or +felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it +before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have +been employed upon; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it +down, and the work is done.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Mantuamakers_Hem" id="Mantuamakers_Hem"></a>Mantuamaker’s Hem.</span>—You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little +below the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and +felled down as strong as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Running" id="Running"></a>Running.</span>—Take three threads, leave three, and in order that the work +may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. If you sew +selvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span> raw edges, one +must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it, but a few threads +from the top. It is, in this case, to be felled afterwards.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Stitching" id="Stitching"></a>Stitching.</span>—The work must be even as possible. Turn down a piece to +stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen threads from +the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring, +the needle out, from under two before. Proceed in this manner, to the +end of the row; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to +pass the needle between the edges and bring it out where the last stitch +was finished.</p> + +<p><a name="corr19" id="corr19"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Gathering" id="Gathering"></a>Gathering.</span>—You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing +it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to make the +divisions. The piece, to which you are intending to gather it, must be +gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the +needle, and leaving four; and so preceding, alternately, until one +quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin; +stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong +needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are +<a name="corr20" id="corr20"></a>gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each +quarter, so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to +be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the +stitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered must +be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to +make the gathering look well.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Gathering" id="Double_Gathering"></a>Double Gathering, or Puffing.</span>—This is sometimes employed in setting on +frills; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. You first gather +the top, in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you +gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish +the puffing to be. You then sew on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span> the first gathering to the gown, +frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with the +width of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as +to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by +gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be +straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires +much exactness, in the execution; but if properly done, it gives a +pleasing variety to the work.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Whipping" id="Whipping"></a>Whipping.</span>—You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters, +as for gathering. You then roll the muslin or other material very +lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. +The needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on the +inside. The whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible. In +order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with +great care. The roll of the whip should be about ten threads.</p> + +<div class="figleft" style="width: 171px;"> +<a href="images/illus-031-full.png"><img src="images/illus-031.png" width="171" height="124" alt="Button-hole stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Button-hole_Stitch" id="Button-hole_Stitch"></a>Button-hole Stitch.</span>—These should be cut by a thread, and their length +should be that of the diameter of the button. In working, the +button-hole must lie lengthways upon the forefinger; and you begin at +the side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the point +of the finger on which it is laid. The needle must go in on the wrong +side, and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make the +stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close. +In turning the corners, be careful not to do it too near; and in order +that a proper thickness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needle +should go in between every two threads. Making button-holes, requires +great care and attention.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[32]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 138px;"> +<a href="images/illus-032-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-032-1.png" width="138" height="113" alt="Fancy button-hole stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Fancy_Button-hole_Stitch" id="Fancy_Button-hole_Stitch"></a>Fancy Button-hole Stitch.</span>—This resembles a very wide button-hole +stitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, where it has a very +pretty appearance; likewise for the bands and the shoulder bits, and +above the broad hems and tucks of frocks.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 99px;"> +<a href="images/illus-032-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-032-2.png" width="99" height="203" alt="Chain stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Chain_Stitch" id="Chain_Stitch"></a>Chain Stitch.</span>—In making this stitch, you are to employ union cord, +bobbin, or braid, whichever you think most suitable. Make a knot at the +end, and draw it through to the right side. While you put in the needle, +let the end hang loose, and bring it out below, so as to incline a +little towards the left hand. Pass your needle over the cord, as you +draw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, you +must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy +the effect. You proceed in the same manner to form the next, and each +succeeding loop; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, and +rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loop +begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thus +produce the resemblance of a chain.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 118px;"> +<a href="images/illus-032-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-032-3.png" width="118" height="193" alt="Fancy chain stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Fancy_Chain_Stitch" id="Fancy_Chain_Stitch"></a>Fancy Chain Stitch.</span>—The only difference between this and the common +chain stitch, is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle +at a time, and the stitches are far from each other. Its appearance will +be varied, according as you put in the needle, to slant little or much. +If you should work it perfectly horizontal, it is the same as +button-hole stitch.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[33]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 175px;"> +<a href="images/illus-033-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-033-1.png" width="175" height="90" alt="Herring-boning" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Herring-boning" id="Herring-boning"></a>Herring-boning.</span>—This is generally employed in articles composed of +flannel, or other thick material. The edge is to be cut even, and turned +down once. You work from left to right, thus: Put your needle into the +material, and take a stitch of two or three threads, as close as +possible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part +which is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand; +make another stitch, and bring down the needle; thus proceed until the +work is finished. This stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish, +and is sometimes used as an ornament for children’s robes, and at the +top of hems. It looks both neat and elegant, when carefully executed.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> +<a href="images/illus-033-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-033-2.png" width="87" height="208" alt="Fancy Herring-boning" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Fancy_Herring-boning" id="Fancy_Herring-boning"></a>Fancy Herring-boning.</span>—This is the same as common herring-bone, only it +is done in a perpendicular manner, instead of being worked horizontally +from left to right; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, +so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner. It has an exceeding +neat and pleasing look, when it is well executed, and is considered as +highly ornamental, in appropriate <a name="corr21" id="corr21"></a>situations.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 211px;"> +<a href="images/illus-033-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-033-3.png" width="211" height="69" alt="Angular Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Angular_Stitch" id="Angular_Stitch"></a>Angular Stitch.</span>—This stitch resembles button-hole stitch, only it is +carried from right to left to form the pattern. It is a neat ornament +for cuffs, skirts and capes, and children’s pelisses. As much of its +beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make the +patterns very even and straight, and of an equal width; without due +attention to this, the work will be spoiled.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[34]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 229px;"> +<a href="images/illus-034-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-034-1.png" width="229" height="117" alt="Double Herring-boning" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Herring-boning" id="Double_Herring-boning"></a>Double Herring-boning.</span>—This pattern is a kind of double herring-bone, +on each side; it is too intricate to <a name="corr22" id="corr22"></a>describe minutely. The engraving +will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could +give. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is +advisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it, to serve as a +guide.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 198px;"> +<a href="images/illus-034-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-034-2.png" width="198" height="115" alt="Horse-shoe Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Horse-shoe_Stitch" id="Horse-shoe_Stitch"></a>Horse-shoe Stitch.</span>—This is done with thick, loosely-twisted cotton, or +bobbin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanying +engraving. It has a very neat and pretty appearance, when worked near +the edge of hems, robings, &c.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 168px;"> +<a href="images/illus-034-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-034-3.png" width="168" height="144" alt="Fancy Bobbin Edging" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Fancy_Bobbin_Edging" id="Fancy_Bobbin_Edging"></a>Fancy Bobbin Edging.</span>—This is formed by a succession of loops made in +the following manner: Make a knot at the end, and put the needle through +to the right side, just below the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem, +and, putting the needle in at the wrong side, bring it through to the +right. Draw the loop to the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it, +and commence the next stitch, proceeding as before.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Chain_Stitch_on_Gathers" id="Chain_Stitch_on_Gathers"></a>Chain Stitch, on Gathers.</span>—This looks well, if worked in colored +worsted, or in cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking +care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on +the needle at the same time.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[35]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 176px;"> +<a href="images/illus-035-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-035-1.png" width="176" height="153" alt="Coral Pattern" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Coral_Pattern" id="Coral_Pattern"></a>Coral Pattern.</span>—This requires great accuracy in the working, and it is +advisable for the inexperienced to run lines, in long stitches, to fix +the middle and outsides of the pattern. It may be best understood by the +engraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand, +and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle +toward the centre. It is very suitable for the waist-bands of children’s +frocks, the tops of broad hems, &c.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 182px;"> +<a href="images/illus-035-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-035-2.png" width="182" height="64" alt="Serpentine Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Serpentine_Stitch" id="Serpentine_Stitch"></a>Serpentine Stitch.</span>—This is exceedingly pretty, and is much employed for +children’s dresses. It is worked with the hand, being sewn on to the +material when made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at the +end; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the front, to form +another loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin through the +loop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cord +so as to pass from the side of the work invariably towards the inner, or +that part next the work.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 177px;"> +<a href="images/illus-035-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-035-3.png" width="177" height="139" alt="Biassing" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Biassing" id="Biassing"></a>Biassing.</span>—In this operation, the first part of the stitch is the same +as gathering. You then stitch down; and upon the right side of the +gather, you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used for +gathering thread. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold +also of the gathering thread. The needle is always to be pointed toward +your chest. You may work two or three rows in this way, on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[36]</a></span> the sleeves +and shoulders of dresses, &c., which has a handsome effect. You must +take <a name="corr23" id="corr23"></a>great care to bring the needle out between each one of the gathers.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 179px;"> +<a href="images/illus-036-full.png"><img src="images/illus-036.png" width="179" height="71" alt="Honey Combing" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Honey_Combing" id="Honey_Combing"></a>Honey Combing.</span>—The material may be velvet, silk, &c.; and the mode of +working is as follows: The piece you intend honey-combing, must be +creased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as possible. +Then make the folds lie closely together, by tacking them with a strong +thread, and in long stitches. You then take silk of the right color; +stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds, and +proceed, with each succeeding two, in the same manner, only taking the +stitches in the intermediate spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternate +row will correspond together. Draw out the thread, when the work is +finished, and on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the right +side. This work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes +employed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well, if carefully +executed.</p> +</div> + +<p>A perfect acquaintance with these various stitches, will enable the +practical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and pleasure.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[37]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER III.</span><br /> + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="INSTRUCTIONS_IN_THE_PREPARATION_OF_BODY_LINEN" id="INSTRUCTIONS_IN_THE_PREPARATION_OF_BODY_LINEN"></a>INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN.</h3> + +<p>In order to secure economy of time, labor, and expense, and also to do +everything neatly and in order, the lady who is intending to engage in +the domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal and +family use, should be careful to have all her materials ready, and +disposed in the most systematic manner possible, before commencing work. +The materials employed in the construction of articles, which come under +the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list +of them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so well +known, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shall +therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any lady +may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses, +merely observing, that a neat work-box, well supplied with all the +implements required—including knife, scissors (of at least three +sizes,) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, +thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, india +rubber, &c., should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key, +to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children, +servants, or unauthorized intruders.</p> + +<p>The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, imple<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[38]</a></span>ments, +&c., placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of which it is an +advantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of a screw,) may +commence her work, and proceed with pleasure to herself, and without +annoyance to any <a name="corr24" id="corr24"></a>visitor, who may favor her with a call. We would +recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of +cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a +garden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume +of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose +circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time +to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, at +least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a few +cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator +intended all His children, in whatever station of life they might be +placed, to share in the common bounties of His providence; and when she, +who not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is +compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from the +cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her +duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these +advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of +the case will admit.</p> + +<p>We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear though +concise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress and +attire.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Aprons" id="Aprons"></a>Aprons.</span>—These are made of a variety of materials, and are applied to +various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are made of white, +blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, and +print, are also employed. The width is generally one breadth of the +material, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. Dress +aprons are, of course, made of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[39]</a></span> finer materials—cambric, muslin, silk, +satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c., and are generally two +breadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on +each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all +kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or +stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom +with a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sides +likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its +length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer. It should be +fastened at the back, with hooks and eyelet holes. To some aprons, +pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the +back, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. The slit, or +opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most +desirable. In some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which are +useful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must be +determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dress_Aprons" id="Dress_Aprons"></a>Dress Aprons.</span>—Take two breadths of any material you choose, dividing +one of them in the middle. Hem all round, with a broad hem, +three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a-half nails +deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted, +on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. The band is +scolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails, +leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scolloped +portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible; +leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds, by +working two rows of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the +band, leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of the band +is ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[40]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Vandyke_Apron" id="Vandyke_Apron"></a>Vandyke Apron.</span>—This may be made either of silk or muslin. The edge of +the apron is to be turned down, once all round, on the right side, to +the depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are formed by +running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the +material, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes are +completed, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth as +possible. A braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right side, over the +stitches, is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must be +placed opposite each other, so as to meet in the middle. You may line +the band with buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if +you please.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Apron_for_a_Young_Person" id="Apron_for_a_Young_Person"></a>Apron for a Young Person.</span>—Clear muslin is the best material. Hem round +with a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem, +a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. Of course, the latter +must be taken off before washing.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Morning_Apron" id="A_Morning_Apron"></a>A Morning Apron.</span>—This may be made like the last, but instead of the +shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped +frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use, is jacconet or +cambric muslin: the frill, of lawn or cambric, which you please.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Girls_Apron" id="Girls_Apron"></a>Girl’s Apron.</span>—Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is to +be made to fit the wearer, in front, between the shoulders, and sloping +to the waist. The apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; and +the shoulder straps may be of the same material, or of ribbon. The bib, +either plain or ornamented, with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most +suitable.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bathing_Gown" id="Bathing_Gown"></a>Bathing Gown.</span>—The materials employed are various, flannels, stuff, or +calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water. +The length must be determined by the height<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[41]</a></span> of the wearer, and the +width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. It should be folded +as you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails +for the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and +three-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length +of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three +inches, in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom, +and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight +with strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or +wrist, in a similar manner.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bustles" id="Bustles"></a>Bustles.</span>—These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon +the person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nails +deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one four +nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admit +of tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each +flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. When worn, the article +is turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, or calico.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Caps" id="Caps"></a>Caps.</span>—These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials +are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslins +of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and <a name="corr25" id="corr25"></a>calico, are all in request; and +the borders are extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those +most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us +from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own +pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should +be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not +to waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make this +department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Childs_Collar" id="Childs_Collar"></a>Child’s Collar.</span>—This is made of double Irish linen, and is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[42]</a></span> stitched +round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached to +them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children, of +eight or nine years of age.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Cravats" id="Cravats"></a>Cravats.</span>—These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half +handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from +muslin, eighteen nails square.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Cloaks" id="Cloaks"></a>Cloaks.</span>—These useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made +up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particular +directions concerning them. The materials are silks and stuffs, of +almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitation +shawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used. +Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a +much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look +well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same +material. Merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or +velvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly +plain. The lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color, +or else a well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the color +should be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. An +attention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage to +the lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining elegance +of appearance with durability of wear, and economy of price.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Frills" id="Frills"></a>Frills.</span>—These are used as ornaments, or a finish to various articles of +dress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c., and the manner +in which they are made is various. Sometimes they are set on quite +plain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to the +width required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the +edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[43]</a></span> rolling it over a bobbin; it +is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end. +Crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. They +are made of lawn or cambric, and sewed on to a band. The other edge is +hemmed, and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band should +be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as +possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gentlemens_Belts" id="Gentlemens_Belts"></a>Gentlemen’s Belts.</span>—These are worn by persons who have much and violent +exercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean or +other material, and sometimes of leather, and may either be made +straight, or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted, +to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of +webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. The straps are +about three inches in depth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gentlemens_Collars" id="Gentlemens_Collars"></a>Gentlemen’s Collars.</span>—These are very generally worn, and are shaped in a +variety of ways. They are made double, and ornamented with a single or +double row of back stitch. They are made to button round the neck, or +are set on to a band for that purpose. It is best to cut the pattern in +paper, and when a good fit is obtained, cut the cloth by the paper +model.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gentlemens_Fronts" id="Gentlemens_Fronts"></a>Gentlemen’s Fronts.</span>—The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes the +sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A false +hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; the +neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered into +a stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck +gussets are introduced.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Ladies_Drawers" id="Ladies_Drawers"></a>Ladies’ Drawers.</span>—Choose any proper material, and form the article by +making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. Set on a +plain or worked frill at the bottom. When set<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[44]</a></span>ting the legs on to the +band, place them so as to overlap each other. The band is eleven nails +long, and three deep.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Ladies_Flannel_Waistcoat" id="Ladies_Flannel_Waistcoat"></a>Ladies’ Flannel Waistcoat.</span>—This is, in many cases, an indispensable +article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece of +flannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, folding it exactly in the +middle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm holes +must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. The front is to be +slightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediately +under the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same in +length, and terminating in a point. Bosom-gores are also to be +introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. They are to be +put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat, +it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and +slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the +front, in which the button holes are made, and buttons set on; the +shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front.</p> + +<p><a name="corr26" id="corr26"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Ladies_Night_Jackets" id="Ladies_Night_Jackets"></a>Ladies’ Night Jackets.</span>—The materials are various, including lawn, +linen, and calico. The jackets are made of two breadths, and as it is +desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two breadths should be +cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. The neck is to +be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and a +slit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass +freely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up, +leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and the neck and bosom are to be +hemmed as neatly as possible. The sleeves are to be made the required +length, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into +the arm holes mentioned above. A neat frill round the neck, bosom, and +wrists, finishes the whole.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[45]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Night_Gowns" id="Night_Gowns"></a>Night Gowns.</span>—These must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. The +following are directions for three different sizes. The length of the +gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard +and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the +third; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen +nails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half +breadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom +twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen, +fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. The length of the +sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width half a breadth; +they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square, +and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemed +desirable.</p> + +<p>A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve, +which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar about +three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, in +order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail +square, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made in +front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is +three, two and a-half and two nails, respectively. The whole is finished +with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is an +object, cut three gowns together. This will prevent much waste of +material; an object, by every head of a family, to be constantly kept in +view.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Neck_and_Pocket_Handkerchiefs" id="Neck_and_Pocket_Handkerchiefs"></a>Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs.</span>—These are made of a great variety of +materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neck +handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. It +is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it more +strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes ’round the waist, and +ties in front. Sometimes a broad<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[46]</a></span> muslin hem is put on the two straight +sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their +neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of +lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a +worked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those +of ladies.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Petticoats_Flannel" id="Petticoats_Flannel"></a>Petticoats (Flannel).</span>—These are not only useful, but indispensable +articles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is most durable, and +keeps its color best in washing. The length of the petticoat is +regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended; and the +width ranges from three breadths to one and a-half. The bottom is hemmed +with a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong band +of calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button +hole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to which +strings of tape are attached; these are passed through the opposite +holes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle, +which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of about +four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound with a +strong binding.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Petticoats" id="Petticoats"></a>Petticoats</span> are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also to +make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. They should have +three or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width, and the +bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks or +worked muslin. The latter is extremely neat. They are to be set on to a +strong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back about +four nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only +at the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all the +fulness is thrown to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the +petticoat, is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[47]</a></span> a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist, +or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case the +body should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. The band +is generally about one nail in breadth. The materials proper for +petticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca, +stuff, &c. What are called middle, or under petticoats, are made in the +same manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing +their own infants, and who wear petticoats with bodies to them, have +them open in front.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pinafore" id="Pinafore"></a>Pinafore.</span>—This is a useful article of dress, especially in large +families. Holland is the best material. For an open one, one breadth is +sufficient. Double the pinafore into four, and cut the arm holes to the +required depth in the two side folds, so that half will form the front. +The neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle, +and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band, which fastens by a +button behind. Sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes, being +gathered near the edge, and set on before the arm hole is hemmed, so +that when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear. The lappet is +a second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as +possible. Then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk +braid that will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is +an advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round the +waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is most to be +preferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Holland, or other +material, will be required. It is seamed up at the sides, leaving slits +for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to go +round the middle of the wearer. Neck gussets may be introduced, but the +much neater way is, to double the pinafore into four, and let in a piece +at each shoulder, about a nail<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[48]</a></span> wide, and two nails in length, gathering +each quarter from the arm holes, into the pieces so let in, and felling +similar pieces on the inside of the shoulder. The two middle quarters +are to be gathered into half the collar, and the back in the same +manner. The sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gathered +into the arm holes. A slit is made at the hands, and the bottom is +gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pockets" id="Pockets"></a>Pockets.</span>—These are made of any kind of material you please. You take a +piece of double, and cut it to the shape required. Stitch the two pieces +neatly round, a little distance from the edge. Then turn it, and let the +seam be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an +inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be +either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on the +strings, and the pocket is complete. Some ladies have pockets attached +to the petticoat. In that case, it is only a square of calico, about ten +nails long, and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, as +plain as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Ribbon_Scarf" id="A_Ribbon_Scarf"></a>A Ribbon Scarf.</span>—This is made of broad satin ribbon, and must not be +less than two nails and a half wide: its length is two yards and three +quarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the <a name="corr27" id="corr27"></a>wrong side, and run in a +slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. The +ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as +may suit the fancy. The scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan’s +down. This is an elegant article of female attire.</p> + +<p><a name="corr28" id="corr28"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Scarf" id="Plain_Scarf"></a>Plain Scarf.</span>—This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two +yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to +admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished +appearance.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[49]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="An_Indian_Scarf" id="An_Indian_Scarf"></a>An Indian Scarf.</span>—This is an elegant article of dress and can be easily +made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors are required: +that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You must have the scarf +four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length: +this must be black. Then you must have of the other two colors, pieces +seven nails long, and the same width as the black, and you are, after +finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and +a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the +scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the +black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the +middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet +stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the +other, as accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together are +to be sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to +make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces fast together, +and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You finish by laying +a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of a +clear, bright color. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue, +to correspond with the two half stripes. This is suitable for a walking +dress, or an evening party.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Dress_Shawl" id="A_Dress_Shawl"></a>A Dress Shawl.</span>—Take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin +velvet or plush, which you please, and line it with sarcenet either +white, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk +or satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crossway. +Or you may trim it with fur, lace, or fringe.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Cashmere_Shawl" id="Cashmere_Shawl"></a>Cashmere Shawl.</span>—You will require for the centre a piece of colored +Cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed round with a +narrow hem. You must then take four stripes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[50]</a></span> all of Cashmere, or of a +shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, which +must be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitches +may appear as little as possible. The border should be three nails +broad, and of course joined point to point at the corners; and it must +be so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over each +other. The shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimes +by a colored gimp laid on over the joinings.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Ladys_Walking_Shawl" id="A_Ladys_Walking_Shawl"></a>A Lady’s Walking Shawl.</span>—This may be made of cloth, merino, or silk; and +either a whole, or half square, at pleasure. The dimensions are one yard +and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. In order that when the +shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time, +care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides, +to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. The +trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Travelling_Shawl" id="A_Travelling_Shawl"></a>A Travelling Shawl.</span>—This is easily made, and is very warm and +convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover it +with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Mourning_Shawls" id="Mourning_Shawls"></a>Mourning Shawls.</span>—These may be made either of half a square of black +silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or +you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, and +border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two +straight sides of the shawl.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Shifts" id="Shifts"></a>Shifts.</span>—These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. They are +made either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the neatest method. +Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cut +off a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to +widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams; +then you double it in a slanting direction,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[51]</a></span> so as to mark off at the +top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join the +narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit +for the arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back and +bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case, +the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies +hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut +either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another +<a name="corr29" id="corr29"></a>method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate +from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then +let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill +gives a neat finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain +or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and +gusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. In all +cases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste the +material. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at +one time. Shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age, +are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly +the neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed +with a broad hem.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Shirts" id="Shirts"></a>Shirts.</span>—These are generally made of linen; but calico is also made use +of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and +station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care, +make several shirts of an ordinary man’s size. In cutting, you must take +a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure +the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off +the other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders, +gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars, +&c., must be fitted,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[52]</a></span> and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits +the person for whom the articles are intended.</p> + +<p>In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front +flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off the spaces for +the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. The bosom-slit +is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The +space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes +the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, and +the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths +are so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders, +or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and the +sleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one; +and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches, +introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated +according to the taste of the maker, or the wearer.</p> + +<p>Gentlemen’s night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they are +larger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which is +called shirting-width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip +will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders, +wristbands, &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Veils" id="Veils"></a>Veils.</span>—These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked, +as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace: +mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet-black is to be preferred, +as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. Colored veils +look well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, put +on as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a light color is +preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is +hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest. +All veils<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[53]</a></span> have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are +frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the +wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second +string round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes from +the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool +and refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled all round the +bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. It +is advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leave +them the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to appear +unsightly and slovenly.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[54]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER IV.</span><br /> + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="INSTRUCTIONS_IN_THE_PREPARATION_OF_HOUSE_LINEN" id="INSTRUCTIONS_IN_THE_PREPARATION_OF_HOUSE_LINEN"></a>INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bed-room_Linen" id="Bed-room_Linen"></a>Bed-room Linen.</span>—This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow covers, +towels, table covers, and pincushion covers.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Quilts" id="Quilts"></a>Quilts.</span>—These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with +the purposes to which they are to be applied. They are generally made of +the outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laid +between,) and stitched in diamonds or other devices. The stitches must +pass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by +a binding proper for the purpose. They are best done in a frame.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Blankets" id="Blankets"></a>Blankets.</span>—These are bought ready prepared for use. It is sometimes +advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with +scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Sheets" id="Sheets"></a>Sheets.</span>—These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and calico. Linen +sheets are in general to be preferred. The seam up the middle must be +sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed: +the latter is the preferable method. Sheets, and all bed-room linen, +should be marked and numbered. To add the date of the year is also an +advantage.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pillow_Covers" id="Pillow_Covers"></a>Pillow Covers.</span>—These are made of fine or coarse linen, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[55]</a></span> sometimes +of calico. The material should be of such a width as to correspond with +the length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamed +up, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with +a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons, as is deemed most +convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to +procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit the +pillow. The selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and +hemmed, as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the same +manner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape slot is run +into the <a name="corr30" id="corr30"></a>other.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Towels" id="Towels"></a>Towels.</span>—Towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted +to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long, +and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are +fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape +loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dressing_Table_Covers" id="Dressing_Table_Covers"></a>Dressing Table Covers.</span>—These may be made of any material that is proper +for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin +are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quilting +which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are +merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered +with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All +depends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance in +accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially +regarded.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pincushion_Covers" id="Pincushion_Covers"></a>Pincushion Covers.</span>—A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to +it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into +which the cushion is slipped. They may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[56]</a></span> either worked or plain, and +should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all +round.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Table_Linen" id="Table_Linen"></a>Table Linen.</span>—This department of plain needlework comprises table +cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Table_Cloths" id="Table_Cloths"></a>Table Cloths.</span>—These may be purchased either singly or cut from the +piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as +possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dinner_Napkins" id="Dinner_Napkins"></a>Dinner Napkins.</span>—These are of various materials; if cut from the piece, +they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large and +small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. +The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and +light employment for very young ladies; and in this way habits of +neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very +beneficial in after life.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pantry_Linen" id="Pantry_Linen"></a>Pantry Linen.</span>—In this department you will have to prepare pantry +cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass, and lamp +cloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong and +durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and are +useful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but +some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. The plate +basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to +prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made of +linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape +of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to +hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a +slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be +made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning +lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are +to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[57]</a></span> or +if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing +looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for +domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by +the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable +remuneration be given them. They would thus become more sensible of the +value of time, and would contract habits of industry, which would be of +essential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progress +through life. A fair price paid for work done, either by a child or an +adult, is far preferable to what is called charity. It at once promotes +industry, and encourages a spirit of honest independence, which is far +removed from unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneaking +servility. Benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman; and we hope that +all our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence will +seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of +the comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts and +talents, with which Providence may have endowed them.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Housemaid_and_Kitchen_Linen" id="Housemaid_and_Kitchen_Linen"></a>Housemaid and Kitchen Linen.</span>—The next subject to which the attention of +the votress of plain needlework ought to be directed, is the preparation +of housemaid and kitchen linen. On these subjects, a very few general +observations will be all that is necessary. In the housemaid’s +department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fine +and soft, are to be provided. To these must be added, dusters, flannels +for scouring, and chamber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind +and color different from any thing else. All these must be neatly hemmed +and run, or seamed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed family +should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy +appearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, of +two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[58]</a></span> which case only +one seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag more +suitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to seamed up +neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at the +top. The best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. In +the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths; +which should be made as neat as possible. Long towels, of good linen, +and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers; they are +generally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. They +should be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends should be secured +strongly and neatly together. If the selvage is bad, the best way is to +hem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea cloths, and knife cloths, may be +made of any suitable material; but in all cases let the edges be turned +down, and neatly sewed or overcast.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pudding_Cloth" id="Pudding_Cloth"></a>Pudding Cloth.</span>—This should be made of coarse linen, neatly hemmed +round, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Jelly_Bag" id="Jelly_Bag"></a>Jelly Bag.</span>—This is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form a +half square. The top must be hemmed, and be furnished with three loops, +by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use.</p> + +<p>Some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise be +introduced, are to be found in the concluding <a href="#CHAPTER_XIX">chapter</a>.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[59]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER V.</span><br /> + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="MISCELLANEOUS_INSTRUCTIONS" id="MISCELLANEOUS_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Binding" id="Binding"></a>Binding.</span>—Various kinds of work have binding set on to them in +preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. +Flannel is generally bound; sometimes with a thin tape, made for that +purpose, and called “flannel binding.” It is also common to bind flannel +with sarcenet ribbon. The binding is so put on, as to show but little +over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the +other side, it is run on with small stitches.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Braiding" id="Braiding"></a>Braiding.</span>—Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of +purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of +the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less +perceived.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Marking" id="Marking"></a>Marking.</span>—It is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and +numbered. This is often done with ink, but as some persons like to mark +with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be taken +each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in +order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the +person, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: and +the third is the reverse of the first, that is, aslant from you toward +the left hand. The needle<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[60]</a></span> is to be brought out at the corner of the +stitch, nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters +or figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Piping" id="Piping"></a>Piping.</span>—This is much used in ornamenting children’s and other dresses. +It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a stripe of +silk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plaiting" id="Plaiting"></a>Plaiting.</span>—The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them, +one against another. In double plaiting they lie both ways, and meet in +the <a name="corr31" id="corr31"></a>middle.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tucks" id="Tucks"></a>Tucks.</span>—These require to be made even. You should have the breadth of +the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. They look +the best run on with small and regular stitches. You must be careful to +take a back-stitch constantly, as you proceed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Making_Buttons" id="Making_Buttons"></a>Making Buttons.</span>—Cover the wire with a piece of calico, or other +material of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work round +the wire in button-hole stitch; work the centre like a <a name="corr32" id="corr32"></a>star.</p> + +<p>Some may think that we have been too minute; but we were desirous to +omit nothing that could be generally useful; and we have had regard also +to those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plain +needlework in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articles +for their humbler fellow creatures, or by the sale of which, they +procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have good +reason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, in +this way, to aid the cause of humanity—and to devote a portion of their +leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence—but +they are destitute of the practical experience necessary to enable them +to do so. To<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[61]</a></span> all such, we hope our little manual will be an acceptable +offering, and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means and +talents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of +the wise man, “There is that scattereth and yet increaseth.”</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="DIAGRAM" id="DIAGRAM"></a>DIAGRAM.</h3> + +<table cellpadding="5" cellspacing="0" summary="diagram"> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">1</td> + <td class="diagram1">2</td> + <td class="diagram1">3</td> + <td class="diagram1">4</td> + <td class="diagram1">5</td> + <td class="diagram1">6</td> + <td class="diagram1">7</td> + <td class="diagram1">8</td> + <td class="diagram1">9</td> + <td class="diagram2">10</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">11</td> + <td class="diagram1">12</td> + <td class="diagram1">13</td> + <td class="diagram1">14</td> + <td class="diagram1">15</td> + <td class="diagram1">16</td> + <td class="diagram1">17</td> + <td class="diagram1">18</td> + <td class="diagram1">19</td> + <td class="diagram2">20</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">21</td> + <td class="diagram1">22</td> + <td class="diagram1">23</td> + <td class="diagram1">24</td> + <td class="diagram1">25</td> + <td class="diagram1">26</td> + <td class="diagram1">27</td> + <td class="diagram1">28</td> + <td class="diagram1">29</td> + <td class="diagram2">30</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">31</td> + <td class="diagram1">32</td> + <td class="diagram1">33</td> + <td class="diagram1">34</td> + <td class="diagram1">35</td> + <td class="diagram1">36</td> + <td class="diagram1">37</td> + <td class="diagram1">38</td> + <td class="diagram1">39</td> + <td class="diagram2">40</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">41</td> + <td class="diagram1">42</td> + <td class="diagram1">43</td> + <td class="diagram1">44</td> + <td class="diagram1">45</td> + <td class="diagram1">46</td> + <td class="diagram1">47</td> + <td class="diagram1">48</td> + <td class="diagram1">49</td> + <td class="diagram2">50</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">51</td> + <td class="diagram1">52</td> + <td class="diagram1">53</td> + <td class="diagram1">54</td> + <td class="diagram1">55</td> + <td class="diagram1">56</td> + <td class="diagram1">57</td> + <td class="diagram1">58</td> + <td class="diagram1">59</td> + <td class="diagram2">60</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">61</td> + <td class="diagram1">62</td> + <td class="diagram1">63</td> + <td class="diagram1">64</td> + <td class="diagram1">65</td> + <td class="diagram1">66</td> + <td class="diagram1">67</td> + <td class="diagram1">68</td> + <td class="diagram1">69</td> + <td class="diagram2">70</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">71</td> + <td class="diagram1">72</td> + <td class="diagram1">73</td> + <td class="diagram1">74</td> + <td class="diagram1">75</td> + <td class="diagram1">76</td> + <td class="diagram1">77</td> + <td class="diagram1">78</td> + <td class="diagram1">79</td> + <td class="diagram2">80</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">81</td> + <td class="diagram1">82</td> + <td class="diagram1">83</td> + <td class="diagram1">84</td> + <td class="diagram1">85</td> + <td class="diagram1">86</td> + <td class="diagram1">87</td> + <td class="diagram1">88</td> + <td class="diagram1">89</td> + <td class="diagram2">90</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">91</td> + <td class="diagram1">92</td> + <td class="diagram1">93</td> + <td class="diagram1">94</td> + <td class="diagram1">95</td> + <td class="diagram1">96</td> + <td class="diagram1">97</td> + <td class="diagram1">98</td> + <td class="diagram1">99</td> + <td class="diagram2">100</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram1">101</td> + <td class="diagram1">102</td> + <td class="diagram1">103</td> + <td class="diagram1">104</td> + <td class="diagram1">105</td> + <td class="diagram1">106</td> + <td class="diagram1">107</td> + <td class="diagram1">108</td> + <td class="diagram1">109</td> + <td class="diagram2">110</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="diagram3">111</td> + <td class="diagram3">112</td> + <td class="diagram3">113</td> + <td class="diagram3">114</td> + <td class="diagram3">115</td> + <td class="diagram3">116</td> + <td class="diagram3">117</td> + <td class="diagram3">118</td> + <td class="diagram3">119</td> + <td class="diagram4">120</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p>In order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work as easy +of acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following diagram; any lady +will thus be able to form the various stitches, by simply taking a piece +of canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessary +to form a square like the diagram;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[62]</a></span> she will perceive the lines +represent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being the +holes formed by the intersection of the threads; and following the +directions given in the accompanying <a href="#CHAPTER_VI">chapter</a>, she will soon be able to +work any patterns here exhibited, and such new ones as her inventive +genius may lead her to design.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[63]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER VI.</span><br /> + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_FANCY" id="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_FANCY"></a>EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Art of Fancy Needlework is closely allied to the sister ones of +Painting and Design; and appears to have been well understood amongst +the most polished nations of antiquity. We know that the art was +practised with considerable success, by the Babylonians, Egyptians, +Persians, and Arabians, as well as by the Greeks and Romans. The Jews +brought the art of needlework with them, out of Egypt, as we learn from +the directions for building the Tabernacle, and preparing the holy +garments; and Sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broidered +cloths, in which part of her extensive traffic consisted. In more modern +times, we find the fair hands of the ladies of Europe employed in +depicting the events of history, in tapestry, of which the much +celebrated Bayeux tapestry—supposed to have been wrought by Matilda, +the beloved wife of William the Norman—detailing the various +occurrences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to the +fatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high rank +employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to the +reformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in those +ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[64]</a></span> temples, and +the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated with +the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it has +flourished most.<a name="FNanchor_64-1_1" id="FNanchor_64-1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_64-1_1" class="fnanchor">[64-*]</a> Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I.; Ann, queen of +France; Catherine, of Aragon; Lady Jane Grey; Mary Queen of Scots; and +Queen Elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. At the +Reformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly to +decline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the present +century. At that time, a new and elevated development of mind began to +appear, which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every +department of arts and sciences. This revival of the fine arts, like the +mental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, was often +in extremely bad taste; but as the latter becomes more purified and +exalted, the former advances in improvement—mind asserts its +superiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and ornamental, a +living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. The year +1800 gave to the world, the celebrated Berlin patterns; but it was not +until a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became generally +appreciated; but now, such is the perfection attained in the cultivation +of the art of needlework, that some of its productions, for delicacy and +expression, may almost bear comparison with painting in <a name="corr33" id="corr33"></a>oil.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 182px;"> +<a href="images/illus-064-full.png"><img src="images/illus-064.png" width="182" height="59" alt="Tent Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tent_Stitch" id="Tent_Stitch"></a>Tent Stitch.</span>—Work the cross way of the canvas, bringing your needle up +through the diagram, No. 2 down 11, one stitch; up 3 down 12, up 4 down +13, and so continue to the end. This stitch is proper for grounding, and +for groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the best +effect if<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[65]</a></span> the flowers are done in tent stitch, and the grounding in +tent cross stitch (which is the same as tent stitch, only crossed.)</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 96px;"> +<a href="images/illus-065-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-065-1.png" width="96" height="76" alt="Cross Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><a name="corr34" id="corr34"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Cross_Stitch" id="Cross_Stitch"></a>Cross Stitch.</span>—Is the same as marking stitch; bring your needle up 21 +down 3, up 23 down 1, one stitch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so +continue till your work is finished. All the stitches must incline to +the right, or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 143px;"> +<a href="images/illus-065-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-065-2.png" width="143" height="92" alt="Double Cross Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Cross_Stitch" id="Double_Cross_Stitch"></a>Double Cross Stitch.</span>—This is a <a name="corr35" id="corr35"></a>stitch very easy of execution. Bring +your needle up No. 41, over four threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43 +down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one stitch. Four, +six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, according +as taste may suggest. This is an admirable stitch for large pieces of +work. Gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition to +its attractive beauty.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 80px;"> +<a href="images/illus-065-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-065-3.png" width="80" height="74" alt="Straight Cross Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Straight_Cross_Stitch" id="Straight_Cross_Stitch"></a>Straight Cross Stitch.</span>—This is a new invention, and has a pretty +appearance. Bring your needle up No. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, one +stitch; up 31 down 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till the +work is finished.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 107px;"> +<a href="images/illus-065-4-full.png"><img src="images/illus-065-4.png" width="107" height="103" alt="" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Straight_Cross_Stitch" id="Double_Straight_Cross_Stitch"></a>Double Straight Cross Stitch.</span>—Bring your needle up No. 3 down 43, up 21 +down 25, up 14 down 32, up 12 down 34, one stitch. Owing to the number +of times the wool is crossed, each stitch has a very bead-like +appearance. A piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable effect.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[66]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 96px;"> +<a href="images/illus-066-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-066-1.png" width="96" height="60" alt="Gobelin Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gobelin_Stitch" id="Gobelin_Stitch"></a>Gobelin Stitch.</span>—This truly beautiful stitch is especially calculated +for working on canvas traced with flowers, leaves, &c.; and also for +working designs, copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle up No. 2 +down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the end of +the row. The stitches may be taken either in height or width, as may +best accord with the taste, or with the subject represented.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 114px;"> +<a href="images/illus-066-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-066-2.png" width="114" height="96" alt="Basket Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Basket_Stitch" id="Basket_Stitch"></a>Basket Stitch.</span>—This is the same as Irish stitch, but the <a name="corr36" id="corr36"></a>arrangement is +different. Work three stitches over two threads; these are called short +stitches; and then the long ones are formed by working three over six +threads, the centre of which are the two on which the short stitches +were worked. Thus you must continue the short and long stitches +alternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the long +stitches must come under the short ones; and this diversity must be kept +up until all the rows are completed. To finish the pattern, you have +only to run a loose film of wool under the long stitches on each of the +short ones, and the task is done.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 107px;"> +<a href="images/illus-066-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-066-3.png" width="107" height="137" alt="Irish Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Irish_Stitch" id="Irish_Stitch"></a>Irish Stitch.</span>—This is the production of an Irish lady of high rank. +Bring your needle up No. 1 over four threads down 41, one stitch back +two threads, up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line with 41) +down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down +41, continuing thus over the square. The spaces left between every other +stitch must be filled up with half stitches; for instance, up 81 down +101, up 83 down 103. It is also some<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[67]</a></span>times worked covering six and eight +threads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, in +the same proportion as the directions given. This stitch is proper for +grounding, when the design is worked in tent or cross stitch; and the +effect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same +<a name="corr37" id="corr37"></a>color. It can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds and +vandykes for example, and many others which will suggest themselves to +the fair votaries of this delightful art. It looks pretty, and is easy +of execution.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 105px;"> +<a href="images/illus-067-full.png"><img src="images/illus-067.png" width="105" height="133" alt="Feather Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Feather_Stitch" id="Feather_Stitch"></a>Feather Stitch.</span>—This, as its name implies, has a light and feathery +appearance, and will be found proper for any work in which lightness +should predominate. You must proceed as in tent stitch, and work over +twelve threads or less, but not more; then bring your needle out one +thread below, and cross on each side of your straight stitch: you must +so continue, taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping the +bottom even with the long stitch with which you began. Thus proceed +until you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: of +course you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary to +complete the row. You can vary the pattern considerably by making the +edges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant stitches, the +first one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, in +our opinion, improve the appearance of the work. You can introduce as +many shades as you please, only taking care that a proper contrast is +duly preserved. You finish by stitching up the centre of each row on a +single thread. For this purpose, silk or gold thread may be introduced +with advantage. It should be remarked, that each row must be worked the +contrary way to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[68]</a></span> one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrow +portions may meet and blend with each other.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 157px;"> +<a href="images/illus-068-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-068-1.png" width="157" height="91" alt="Point Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Point_Stitch" id="Point_Stitch"></a>Point Stitch.</span>—To work this stitch, take four threads straight way of +the canvas, and bring the needle three steps up, and so proceed until +your point is of a sufficient depth. This stitch looks pretty, worked in +different and well contrasted shades, and may be applied to many useful +and ornamental purposes.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 120px;"> +<a href="images/illus-068-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-068-2.png" width="120" height="107" alt="Queen Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Queen_Stitch" id="Queen_Stitch"></a>Queen Stitch.</span>—Work over four threads in height and two in width, +crossing from right to left, and back again. Finish each row by a stitch +across, between them, taking a thread of each, and, of course, working +upon two threads. This is a very neat stitch.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 101px;"> +<a href="images/illus-068-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-068-3.png" width="101" height="72" alt="Queen’s Vandyke" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Queens_Vandyke" id="Queens_Vandyke"></a>Queen’s Vandyke.</span>—This is supposed to be the invention of Princess +Clementina, one of the daughters, we believe of a king of France. Take +twelve threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the length and breadth +are in conformity. It can be introduced into a variety of work, and +looks well.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 79px;"> +<a href="images/illus-068-4-full.png"><img src="images/illus-068-4.png" width="79" height="88" alt="Single Plait Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Single_Plait_Stitch" id="Single_Plait_Stitch"></a>Single Plait Stitch.</span>—Pass the needle across the canvas through two +threads, from right to left; you then cross four threads downward, and +pass the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant, +and again pass over four threads, always working downward, and passing +the needle from right to left, across two threads, until the row is +completed as far as you desire.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[69]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 79px;"> +<a href="images/illus-069-full.png"><img src="images/illus-069.png" width="79" height="89" alt="Double Plait Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Plait_Stitch" id="Double_Plait_Stitch"></a>Double Plait Stitch.</span>—This stitch is from left to right across four +threads aslant downward, and crossed from right to left, the needle +passing out at the left, in the middle of the four threads just crossed, +and so continue working downward, until you have finished the pattern.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Velvet_Stitch" id="Velvet_Stitch"></a>Velvet Stitch.</span>—This is a combination of cross stitch and queen stitch, +and is very ornamental when properly done. You work in plain cross +stitch three rows, then leave three threads, and again work three rows +as before; thus proceed until your canvas is covered, leaving three +threads between every triple row of cross stitch. Then across the rows +work in queen stitch with double wool; but instead of taking two +distinct threads for each stitch, you may take one thread of the +preceding stitch; this will give an added thickness to your work. It +will be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment, as +doing so will make it better to cut. If you work it in squares, they +should not be larger than seventeen stitches; and to look well, they +must each be placed the contrary way to the other.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Algerine_Work" id="Algerine_Work"></a>Algerine Work.</span>—This work much resembles a Venetian carpet, but is +finer; it looks best done in very small patterns. It is worked over +cotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners; the stitches are +over three threads. Your work as in raised work, putting the colors in +as you come to them, and counting three stitches in width, as one stitch +when you are working Berlin pattern. The paper canvas is No. 45 and the +cord No. 00. It is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Fill_up_Corners" id="To_Fill_up_Corners"></a>To Fill up Corners.</span>—Work in any stitch you prefer and shade in +accordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[70]</a></span> borders, &c., +there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. In all +that, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothing +is lost by taking time to think. However trivial and unimportant our +actions may be, they should always be preceded by mature deliberation. A +habit of thought once established will remain through life, and protect +its possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions, and the +agonies of remorse and unavailable <a name="corr38" id="corr38"></a>repentance.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="Footnote_64-1_1" id="Footnote_64-1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64-1_1"><span class="label">[64-*]</span></a> The presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common +mark of approval in the ages of chivalry.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[71]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER VII.</span><br /> + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXPLANATION_OF_PATTERNS" id="EXPLANATION_OF_PATTERNS"></a>EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS.</h3> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 188px;"> +<a href="images/illus-071-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-071-1.png" width="188" height="190" alt="The Beaufort Star" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="The_Beaufort_Star" id="The_Beaufort_Star"></a>The Beaufort Star.</span>—This is a beautiful pattern, and will look well, as +a centre, for any moderately-sized piece of work. Begin on the width of +the canvas, and take twelve threads, reducing at every stitch, one +thread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and <a name="corr39" id="corr39"></a>increasing +alternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row. The +next row is performed in the same manner, only you work on the long way +of the canvas. Introduce gold or silver thread between where the +stitches join, and so finish.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 101px;"> +<a href="images/illus-071-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-071-2.png" width="101" height="102" alt="Chess Pattern" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Chess_Pattern" id="Chess_Pattern"></a>Chess Pattern.</span>—Work a square in cross stitch, with three stitches, +making three of a dark shade and six of white, working as many squares +as you require, and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by cross +stitch, which you must fill up with Irish stitch, working across the +canvas. You can employ any color that will harmonize well with the cross +stitch; and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[72]</a></span> to complete the pattern, you must work a single stitch +across each square, in Irish stitch.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dice_Pattern" id="Dice_Pattern"></a>Dice Pattern.</span>—This is formed by working rows of eight stitches, in any +color you please. You must here have four shades, and work two stitches +in each shade. Commence a stitch, over ten threads, and drop one each +time, until you have taken eight stitches; the intermediate spaces are +for the ground, which must contrast with the pattern; and the +introduction of a little gold or silver thread, would be an <a name="corr40" id="corr40"></a>improvement.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 246px;"> +<a href="images/illus-072-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-072-1.png" width="246" height="164" alt="Double Diamond, in Long Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Diamond_in_Long_Stitch" id="Double_Diamond_in_Long_Stitch"></a>Double Diamond, in Long Stitch.</span>—This pattern, when it is worked in two +colors strongly contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, is +exceedingly beautiful. The shades of scarlet and blue, on a white or +black ground, produce the most agreeable effect.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 176px;"> +<a href="images/illus-072-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-072-2.png" width="176" height="232" alt="German Pattern" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="German_Pattern" id="German_Pattern"></a>German Pattern.</span>—There is a Gothic grandeur and sobriety about this +pattern which gives to it a noble and grave aspect. It is worked in +Irish stitch, six threads straight down the second row, falling about +four stitches below the first; the third, the same below the second; the +fourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three the +same; and then six in the same proportion. You then increase, and so +render the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of a +Gothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[73]</a></span> to +produce the best effect: those for the first and last row must be of the +same tint; and the same rule applies to all the rest. A lady can, of +course, choose her own colors; but care must be had to blend the +alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 164px;"> +<a href="images/illus-073-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-073-1.png" width="164" height="168" alt="Irish Diamond" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Irish_Diamond" id="Irish_Diamond"></a>Irish Diamond.</span>—This is beautiful, and is very easy of execution. +Commence with two threads, and increase to fourteen, working across the +canvas, and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in the +same manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. Begin the next +row two threads down the canvas, and place a gold or steel bead in the +centre of each diamond. Finish with a bordering of gold twist, or mother +of pearl.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<a href="images/illus-073-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-073-2.png" width="150" height="149" alt="Lace" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Lace" id="Lace"></a>Lace.</span>—This is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of execution. +The recognized material is a black Chantilly silk. It is mostly worked +from Berlin patterns, and may be done either in cross stitch, or in +straight stitch pattern: the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool. +You may imitate a pearl border, by taking two threads directly behind +the border. It is used for sofa pillows, &c., to which it forms a very +pretty termination indeed.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Heart_Pattern" id="Heart_Pattern"></a>Heart Pattern.</span>—This pattern looks well. Pass the wool over ten threads +in the centre, then make four additional stitches of ten threads, +dropping one each time from the top, and taking one up at the bottom; +then take the sixth stitch, dropping a thread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[74]</a></span> at the top as before, but +keeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch; your seventh stitch must +be in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and your +last will be on two threads, worked in the same manner: then proceed to +form the other half of the pattern. The hearts may be worked in various +shades of the same color, and the space between them is to filled up +with a diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 69px;"> +<a href="images/illus-074-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-074-1.png" width="69" height="80" alt="Princess Royal" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Princess_Royal" id="Princess_Royal"></a>Princess Royal.</span>—Work this in rows of stitches over four and two threads +alternately, leaving one thread between each stitch: begin the next row +two threads down, with a stitch over two threads, and proceed as before. +Work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in the vacancies with +gold or pearl beads.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Roman_Pattern" id="Roman_Pattern"></a>Roman Pattern.</span>—The material to be used, in working the pattern, is +purse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent stitch. +The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; the +centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, then the next, and +lastly the darkest to form a broad outline. This kind of work is done +quickly, and presents a rich appearance.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 121px;"> +<a href="images/illus-074-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-074-2.png" width="121" height="134" alt="Russian Pattern" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Russian_Pattern" id="Russian_Pattern"></a>Russian Pattern.</span>—This is worked in rows across the canvas, in stitches +of irregular lengths, and has a pleasing effect. Pass the first stitch +over sixteen threads, the second over twelve, the third over sixteen, +and so proceed to the seventh row, which is the centre. Pass the stitch +over eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a space +of four threads, and commence as at first. Form the second row in the +same manner, leaving four threads between the longest stitches in each +row: the rows may be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[75]</a></span> worked in any number of shades, taking care to +preserve uniformity, and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond, +worked in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color; or it +may be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the monotonous +appearance of the pattern. It will be best to begin and finish each row +with a half diamond.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 151px;"> +<a href="images/illus-075-full.png"><img src="images/illus-075.png" width="151" height="154" alt="Victoria Pattern" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Victoria_Pattern" id="Victoria_Pattern"></a>Victoria Pattern.</span>—Pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch over six +threads, the next over five, and so proceed to the corner, which will be +on one thread; the other side must be done in a different shade, but the +same color, and the shades of each must be turned alternately the +opposite way. The corner stitch should be of some brilliant colored +silk, if not of gold thread: the top of one square will be the bottom of +another, and you work the three stitches between the corners in black or +dark wool. The squares must be filled in with long stitch, working from +corner to corner, across the canvas.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Wave_Pattern" id="Wave_Pattern"></a>Wave Pattern.</span>—These are extremely beautiful, when worked in four or +five shades. They are done in Irish stitch, and the rows must be worked +close together, the wool is passed over six threads, and the rows +dropped a few threads below each other, so as to form a wave. The +pattern may be varied almost infinitely; the following forms a beautiful +specimen: work six rows of any length you choose, dropping one stitch at +the top and adding one to the bottom of each row; then proceed upwards, +for six rows, and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventh +row forming the centre; then work nine rows, of which the first, third, +fifth seventh, and ninth, must be level with the second row of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[76]</a></span> +pointed wave; and the second, fourth, sixth, and eight, must be on a +level with the first and last rows, while the first, third, fifth, +seventh, and ninth, must drop two stitches, so as to produce an +irregular edge; then work a pointed wave, as before, and the pattern is +<a name="corr41" id="corr41"></a>complete.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 105px;"> +<a href="images/illus-076-full.png"><img src="images/illus-076.png" width="105" height="128" alt="Windsor Pattern" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Windsor_Pattern" id="Windsor_Pattern"></a>Windsor Pattern.</span>—In working this pattern, you must count eight threads +down the canvas, and then increase one each way, until you have twelve, +so as to form a diamond of six sides. The second row must be begun with +twelve threads, so as to join the longest stitch in the former row. When +each row is finished, the intersectional diamonds must be filled in; +which may be done either in silk or gold thread, and has <a name="corr42" id="corr42"></a>an extremely +neat appearance.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[77]</a></span></p> + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SUGGESTIONS_AS_TO_PATTERNS" id="SUGGESTIONS_AS_TO_PATTERNS"></a>SUGGESTIONS AS TO PATTERNS.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">For</span> bottle-stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are very +beautiful. The materials proper for working them, are silk and wool, +with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread or twist. For +foundations, you may use either velvet or silk canvas.</p> + +<p>Small sprigs are pretty, for work that is not too large; chenille is +proper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in silk; a +few gold beads add to the effect.</p> + +<p>For large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, and produce +a good impression on the eye; the outline is to be traced in brilliant +silk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same color, working +half in each shade; the medallion should be placed upon a white field, +and the whole grounded in a dark color, which harmonizes well with the +design of the pattern.</p> + +<p>Bags may be worked in a variety of ways, to suit taste and convenience. +The border is often made to resemble black lace, and when properly +executed, looks extremely well. The parts filled up, should be worked in +black floss or black wool. Leaves may be worked with gold twist, or +beads may be employed. The grounding should be in fine twisted silk: any +color may be used. In other cases, white wool, white silk, silver and +glass beads, and several other materials are in requisition; so that +here is ample scope for classification and arrangement. A mourning bag<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[78]</a></span> +looks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, and +ornamented with black glass and silver beads, disposed in a tasteful and +ornamental style. Sometimes a bag is worked as a shield of four squares; +in such a case, two squares should be worked in feather stitch, and the +others in any stitch that will form a pleasing contrast: the border +should be a simple, but elegant lace pattern.</p> + +<p>For braces and bracelets, any small border pattern may be adopted. They +should be worked in two colors, highly contrasted, for bracelets: gold +twist round the edge is a great addition.</p> + +<p>These suggestions in reference to patterns, might have been greatly +extended; but we wish every young lady to draw upon the resources of her +own mind, and to think for herself. To one, who is desirous to excel, we +have said enough; a little thought will enable her to apply the general +principles, here laid down, to any particular case; and, without the +employment of the thinking faculty, the most minute instructions, in +this or any other art, would fail in producing their intended effects.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[79]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER VIII.</span><br /> + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="INSTRUCTIONS_IN_EMBROIDERY" id="INSTRUCTIONS_IN_EMBROIDERY"></a>INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Embroidery_with_Silk" id="Embroidery_with_Silk"></a>Embroidery with Silk.</span>—The materials used as foundations, are various, +embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed in +working is purse silk, deckers, half twist, and floss; but floss is most +in request.</p> + +<p>Embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot be done well +on the hand, except in very small pieces. The same careful attention to +shades, before recommended, is necessary here; for small flowers two or +three shades are sufficient; but in roses and others, that are large, +five shades are in general required; the darker shades should be worked +into the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work them +in French knots,)<a name="FNanchor_79-1_2" id="FNanchor_79-1_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_79-1_2" class="fnanchor">[79-*]</a> and thence proceed with the lighter, until you +come to the lightest, which forms the outline. The pattern must be +correctly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves you must begin +with the points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with a +shade more dark: you may soften the blending, by working each shade up, +between the stitches of the preceding shade. Three,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[80]</a></span> or at most four +shades, are sufficient for the leaves: the introduction of more would +injure the effect.</p> + +<p><a name="corr44" id="corr44"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Chenille_Embroidery" id="Chenille_Embroidery"></a>Chenille Embroidery.</span>—Is very beautiful for screens, &c., but must not +be used for any work that is liable to pressure. Choose a needle as +large as can be conveniently used, and be careful not to have the +lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working. +For flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be too near. The +chenille must pass through the material freely, so as not to draw it. It +looks well done in velvet, with occasional introductions of gold and +silver thread.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Raised_Embroidery" id="Raised_Embroidery"></a>Raised Embroidery.</span>—Draw the pattern on the material as before. Work the +flowers, &c., to the height required, in soft cotton, taking care that +the centre is much higher than the edges. A careful study of nature is +indispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work. +Pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, only +working them much closer. The most striking effect is produced when the +flowers or animals are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. Much in +this, as in every department of this charming art, must depend upon the +taste and judgment—correct or otherwise—of the fair artist. A servile +copyist will never attain to excellence.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Embroidery_in_Wool" id="Embroidery_in_Wool"></a>Embroidery in Wool.</span>—This is proper for any large piece of work. The +rules for shading embroidery with silk apply here; only the work must +not be quite so thick on the material; care must also be taken to bring +the wool through on the right side, as near as possible to where it +passes through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, which +would occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from the +frame. When finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to damp +the back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[81]</a></span> +the wrong side. This kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting of +various articles of dress, on which, when judiciously placed, it has a +pleasing effect.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Patterns" id="Patterns"></a>Patterns.</span>—This is a part of fancy needlework to which too much +attention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. We want to see +native genius developed, and we are convinced that many a fair one could +increase our stock of patterns, with new and surprising conceptions, if +she could but be induced to make the trial. To draw patterns for +embroidery or braid work, get a piece of cartridge paper, and having +drawn out the design, trace it off upon tissue paper, or which is +better, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find it +easy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run one +hole into another. Lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you +intend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go +through the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the +material be dark, take a camel’s hair pencil, and paint the marks with a +mixture of white lead and gum water; or if you prefer it, you can trace +the marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead pencil, but the other +methods are preferable. A little practice and <a name="corr45" id="corr45"></a>perseverance will enable +you to became tolerably proficient in this department, and confer upon +you the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits of +untiring diligence, which are so essential to the attainment of any +object. Ever recollect, that anything worth doing at all, is worth doing +well.</p> + + +<div class="footnotes"> +<p><a name="corr43" id="corr43"></a><a name="Footnote_79-1_2" id="Footnote_79-1_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79-1_2"><span class="label">[79-*]</span></a> This applies especially to the working of dahlias: begin +with the centre knot and work round it as many as are required.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[82]</a></span></p> + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER IX.</span><br /> + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="PREPARATION_OF_FRAMES" id="PREPARATION_OF_FRAMES"></a>PREPARATION OF FRAMES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">This</span> is a subject which must be carefully attended to, or much +unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Cross_Stitch" id="To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Cross_Stitch"></a>To Dress a Frame for Cross Stitch.</span>—The canvas must be hemmed neatly +round: then count your threads, and place the centre one exactly in the +middle of the frame. The canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws or +pegs will permit; and if too long, should be wrapped round the poles +with tissue paper, to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms, as +that is essential to the beauty of the work. It must in all cases be +rolled <i>under</i>, or it will occasion much trouble in the working. When +placed quite even in the frame, secure by fine twine passed over the +stretchers, and through the canvas very closely; both sides must be +tightened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will be +spoiled.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Cloth_Work" id="To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Cloth_Work"></a>To Dress a Frame for Cloth Work.</span>—Stretch your cloth in the frame as +tight as possible, the right side uppermost.</p> + +<p>The canvas on which you intend to work, must be of a size to correspond +with the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth, +to which it is to be secured as smooth as possible. When the work is +finished the canvas must be cut, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[83]</a></span> the threads drawn out, first one +and then the other. It is necessary to be especially careful in working, +not to split the threads, as that would prevent them drawing, and would +spoil the appearance of the work. In all cases, it is advisable to place +the cloth so as that the nap may go downward. In working bouquets of +flowers, this rule is indispensable.</p> + +<p>The patterns for cloth work should be light and open. It looks well for +sofas, arm chairs, &c., but is by no means so durable as work done with +wool, entirely on canvas.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Tent_Stitch" id="To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Tent_Stitch"></a>To Dress a Frame for Tent Stitch.</span>—Prepare the frame, and brace the +canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining the +contrary way to that in which you slant your stitch. This is necessary, +as tent stitch always twists a little. This method will cause the work, +when taken out of the frame, to appear tolerably straight. Should it +after all be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a square +board, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as to +become perfectly straight. The back of the work should then be slightly +brushed over with isinglass water, taking care not to let the liquid +come through to the right side. A sheet of paper must be placed between +the work and the board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid upon +it, and the whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or the +brilliancy of the colors will be destroyed.</p> + +<p>Some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly improper, +and should never be <a name="corr46" id="corr46"></a>resorted to.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="INSTRUCTIONS_FOR_WORKING" id="INSTRUCTIONS_FOR_WORKING"></a>INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Armorial_Bearings" id="Armorial_Bearings"></a>Armorial Bearings.</span>—Work the arms and crest in silk, as brilliancy is +the thing here principally required. It will be proper that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[84]</a></span> the scroll +should be worked in wool. The contrast will have a pleasing effect.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Applique" id="Applique"></a>Applique.</span>—This is a very beautiful kind of work. The material may be +either silk, or cloth, or any other fabric which may be preferred. Upon +this foundation, pieces of satin, velvet, &c., are to be carefully +tacked down; the pattern, leaves, flowers, &c., must then be drawn, both +on the foundation, and the materials of which they are to be formed; +after which, they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest manner +possible. They are then to be braided with <a name="corr47" id="corr47"></a>their own colors round the +edges; you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves; work +the centre of leaves in a long stitch, and the kind of silk called purse +silk, and after braiding the centre of flowers—if single—work over +them with French knots, made by twining the silk twice round the needle, +and passing it through the material. This kind of work, as covers for +tables chairs, &c., is very elegant, and has a good effect.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bead_Work" id="Bead_Work"></a>Bead Work.</span>—Use the canvas called bolting; and work two threads each way +on the slant, with china silk, taking especial care that the beads are +all turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. Work the +pattern with thick beads and ground with transparent ones. You must, in +this kind of work, have as few shades as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Braid_Work" id="Braid_Work"></a>Braid Work.</span>—Trace the pattern in the material, and proceed with the +various shades, from the outline or lightest, to the darkest, till the +whole is completed. In this work only two shades are for leaves, and +three for flowers; make the points as sharp as possible, and in turning +the points, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the +braid, and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place. Vein +the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishing as +taste may direct; and in fastening<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[85]</a></span> draw the braid through the material. +The best instrument for this purpose is a chenille needle. In braid work +and applique, only one stitch must be taken at a time, or else the work +will appear puckered.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Braces" id="Braces"></a>Braces.</span>—Work in silk canvas three inches broad, in silk or wool, in any +pattern you prefer.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gem_or_Set_Patterns" id="Gem_or_Set_Patterns"></a>Gem, or Set Patterns.</span>—For this kind of work, ground in black or dark +wool, and work the patterns in silks, as distinct and bright as +possible, and with the utmost variety of colors. The beauty of these +productions of the needle, depends chiefly upon their brilliant and +gem-like appearance.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gobelin" id="Gobelin"></a>Gobelin.</span>—If you work in coarse canvas, adopt the same contrast of +shades as you employ in cross stitch; if the material be fine, you must +shade as in tent stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gentlemens_Waistcoats" id="Gentlemens_Waistcoats"></a>Gentlemen’s Waistcoats.</span>—To ornament the dress of a father, brother, or +husband, must at all times be a pleasing employment for domestic +affection. For dress waistcoats, embroider satin, either in the form of +a wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, or in small sprigs; for +morning, you may work in any pattern you prefer. Patterns of the +Caledonian Clans are now much admired.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Landscapes" id="Landscapes"></a>Landscapes.</span>—These may be rendered extremely beautiful, if properly +managed. The trees in front should be much lighter than those seen in +the back ground, and great care should be taken to prevent the latter +having too blue a cast, as this renders them unharmonious, when +contrasted with the sky. Represent water by shades of a blue grey: the +sky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled with +clouds composed of varying tints of a white and a yellow drab. If +mountains are seen in the distance, they should be of a grey <a name="corr48" id="corr48"></a>lavender +tint, and some living animal<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[86]</a></span> should, in nearly all cases, be +introduced. The presence of a cow, sheep, &c., gives life and animation +to the view.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Mosaic_Work" id="Mosaic_Work"></a>Mosaic Work.</span>—If you work with wool, cut it into short lengths, and +untwist it. No wool can be procured sufficiently fine for this kind of +work. If you work with silk, the finest floss is preferable to any +other: split silk would be found extremely inconvenient, and the work +would not look so well. Care must be taken that the shades are very +distinct, or they will appear jumbled and unsightly. It will also be +necessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one flower +to another, as in that case the fastenings would become visible on the +right side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. In working a +landscape, some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, to +avoid the trouble of working one. As a compliance with such advice would +tend to foster habits of idleness, and thus weaken the sense of moral +propriety which should in all we do be ever present with us, as well as +destroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which flies from every +species of deception, we hope the fair votaries of this delightful art +will reject the suggestion with the contempt it merits.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Patterns_on_Canvas" id="Patterns_on_Canvas"></a>Patterns on Canvas.</span>—Employ for canvas four or five shades, beginning +with the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter tint, till you +come to the lightest, following the distinction of contrast exhibited by +the Berlin patterns. If you wish to introduce silk into any part, it +will be best to work it in last. Be careful to avoid taking odd threads, +if you work the pattern in cross stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Perforated_Card" id="Perforated_Card"></a>Perforated Card.</span>—The needle must not be too large, or the holes will be +liable to get broken. The smaller ones must be worked in silk: the +larger patterns may be done in either silk or wool. Sometimes the +flowers are worked in Chenille, and the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[87]</a></span> leaves in silk; this gives to +card cases, &c., a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Rug_Bordering" id="Rug_Bordering"></a>Rug Bordering.</span>—Use a wooden mesh, grooved, an inch and a quarter in +width; pass the material over the mesh, and work in cross stitch: the +material to be used, is what is called slacks, (a kind of worsted,) +which must be six or eight times doubled. You must leave three threads +between each row, and not more than eight rows are required to complete +the border.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Wire_Work" id="Wire_Work"></a>Wire Work.</span>—For this work choose shades of a light in preference to a +dark color, and work with silk. If you employ both silk and wool, silk +must be used for the lighter shades, or the beauty of the work will be +impaired. Sponge the whole before commencing work.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[88]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="corr49" id="corr49"></a><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER X.</span><br /> + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead">APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Lace_fancy" id="Lace_fancy"></a>Lace.</span>—This imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags, +sofa pillows, &c.; and also for ladies’ work bags, to which it is both +ornamental and becoming.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Princess_Royal_application" id="Princess_Royal_application"></a>Princess Royal.</span>—This pattern is especially proper for bags or small +stands.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Point_Stitch_application" id="Point_Stitch_application"></a>Point Stitch</span>, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, as well +as for bags of a considerable <a name="corr50" id="corr50"></a>size.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Basket_Stitch_application" id="Basket_Stitch_application"></a>Basket Stitch.</span>—This kind of work is very elegant for flower, fruit, or +work baskets; or any other of an ornamental character.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="German_Pattern_application" id="German_Pattern_application"></a>German Pattern</span>, is well adapted for slippers, as, when worked, it is +found to be very durable, and its appearance peculiarly fits it for this +application.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Embroidery" id="Embroidery"></a>Embroidery</span>, is of almost universal application: that with chenille is +much used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a most +pleasing effect. Embroidery in wool is also much in use for the same +purpose.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Rug_Borderings" id="Rug_Borderings"></a>Rug Borderings.</span>—These may be considered as articles of domestic +economy; and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor, +or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter, +or a sister, this kind of work is at all times,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[89]</a></span> when properly executed, +superior, considered merely as work, far superior to any similar +productions emanating from the loom.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gentlemens_Waistcoats_and_Braces" id="Gentlemens_Waistcoats_and_Braces"></a>Gentlemen’s Waistcoats and Braces.</span>—By being able to perform this kind +of work, it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer an +elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increase +the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. This reason is amply +sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate this +department of fancy needlework.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Wire_Work_application" id="Wire_Work_application"></a>Wire Work.</span>—This is a lovely material for baskets, and various kinds of +ornamental fabrications.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Working_Figures" id="Working_Figures"></a>Working Figures.</span>—This delightful application of the needle may be +rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes. By it +the sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted: the +scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or the +portrait of a departed friend may be placed before us, as when blooming +in all the living lustre of angelic loveliness. Let this portion of the +art be especially and <a name="corr51" id="corr51"></a>assiduously cultivated.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Armorial_Bearings_application" id="Armorial_Bearings_application"></a>Armorial Bearings.</span>—These are proper for screens, and may be made of a +high moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardent +desire to become acquainted with the events of history, and with the +actions and principles of former times.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Mosaic_Work_and_Perforated_Card" id="Mosaic_Work_and_Perforated_Card"></a>Mosaic Work, and Perforated Card.</span>—These are used for note books, +ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and a variety of other +useful purposes.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Braid_Work_application" id="Braid_Work_application"></a>Braid Work.</span>—The application of this kind of work is well known, and is +so general, that no particular cases need be pointed out.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Applique_application" id="Applique_application"></a>Applique.</span>—This is very elegant, as employed for table covers,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[90]</a></span> sofas, +chairs, &c.; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever it is +applied it has a pleasing effect.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Star_Patterns" id="Star_Patterns"></a>Star Patterns</span>, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, or any piece +of work that is small.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Medallion_Pattern" id="Medallion_Pattern"></a>Medallion Pattern.</span>—Where the work is coarse, or large, these may be +introduced with good effect; but especial attention must be paid to a +proper combination of colors and shades.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[91]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XI.</span><br /> + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="SPECIAL_INSTRUCTIONS" id="SPECIAL_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Instructions_in_Grounding" id="Instructions_in_Grounding"></a>Instructions in Grounding.</span>—Care must be taken in grounding to make the +effect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you ground in dark colors, +your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint; for +those in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensible. +The canvas for white grounding should be white; and if for dark +grounding, a striped fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimes +appear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub +over the surface with a little Indian ink water previous to commencing +working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the +edges of the work, and it must be quite dry before you commence +grounding. A camel’s hair brush is best for this purpose. In working in +cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right to +left across the canvas, and then back again. This is preferable to +crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance to +the work.</p> + +<p>If you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance will be +uneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases begin to go round from +the centre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off as you finish +with each needleful, which should not be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[92]</a></span> too long, as the wool is +liable to get rough and soiled. It is also necessary to have them +irregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming together which +they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. For +working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more +than fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have a +canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former, +you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool; +in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. Following this +calculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for +any piece of work; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at the +same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades. +An attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in +the grounding department of the art.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Working_Figures_instructions" id="Working_Figures_instructions"></a>Working Figures.</span>—This is at once one of the most difficult, and at the +same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancy +needlework will have to perform; they generally produce the best effect +when worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold and +silver beads. The hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch; and +the face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch; working four of the latter +for one of the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is +no easy task; but it <i>must</i> be carefully attended to, as almost the +whole beauty of the work depends upon it. The shades in these parts of +the figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the features +the perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also +demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, +particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the back +ground should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper prominence +may be given to the figure: this object will be aided<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[93]</a></span> considerably by +working in the lighter shades in silk: any representation of water or of +painted glass, should be worked in the same material. The intention of +the fair worker should be to give to her performance as near an +approximation to oil painting as possible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Raised_Work" id="Raised_Work"></a>Raised Work.</span>—This should be done with German wool, as it more nearly +resembles velvet. For working flowers, you must have two meshes, +one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked in +gobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one mesh out, until you have +completed the next row. You work across the flowers; and in order to +save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, +it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking +care not to get the various shades mixed together. This is more needful, +as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing +another. When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, with +a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower into +its proper form.</p> + +<p>For working animals or birds, you must have three meshes; <a name="corr52" id="corr52"></a>the first, one +quarter; and the third, one seventh of an inch: the second must be a +medium between these two. You will require the largest for the breast, +and the upper parts of the wings. Cross stitch may be employed in +working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You may work +leaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy +may direct. You may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from Berlin +pattern; but the latter is decidedly to be preferred.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Working_Berlin_Patterns" id="Working_Berlin_Patterns"></a>Working Berlin Patterns.</span>—For these patterns, it will be necessary to +work in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as you +may desire the work to be a larger, or of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[94]</a></span> same size as the pattern: +and, it must be borne in mind, that all the patterns are drawn for tent +stitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it the +same size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas, +for ten on the paper. The choice of colors, for these patterns, is a +matter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade, if +sudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. A +natural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can, alone +produce the desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades will +be required: in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost +indispensible; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre, +then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from it, +and the next four to the lightest tint; the whole, to be so managed, as +to give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which its position +in the design demands. For small flowers, so many shades are rarely +necessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft; +this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of +tints, which is so indispensible. You must recollect, that for work done +in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for that +done in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. A +proper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kinds +of green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose; +Saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; French green, for +iris, marigold, narcissus, &c.; and for poppies, tulips, &c.; a willow +green, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally; and +for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper +to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light: +the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; the +next two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[95]</a></span> third; and the +fifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves be +distinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darker +than those upon which the light falls; and if of a color having a bluish +tint, a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. The stalks of +roses, &c., should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green. White +flowers are often spoilt, by being worked of too dark a shade; if you do +not work with silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, by +using Moravian cotton and white wool; these combined with three shades +of light stone color—the second two shades darker than the first, and +the third darker than the second, in the same proportions—will produce +a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, by leaves of the +proper tints, will have a most beautiful appearance. The lighter parts +of all flowers, in Berlin patterns, may be worked in silk; and in many +cases that is a decided improvement; but it should never be introduced +in the leaves; here it would be out of place. We again repeat, beware of +servile copying: try to engage your own judgment in this work, and, +remember, that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one of +the most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain.</p> + +<p>We have now, we trust, placed before the young student of fancy +needlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to the art, +as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowed +upon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful employment. With +one or two additional remarks, we will conclude this portion of our +labors. The young votary of the needle must recollect that, if she +allows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attention +from the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedly +wrong and had far better never learn it at all. Another thing to be +especially guarded against,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[96]</a></span> is, not to devote too much time to this, or +any other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to a +serious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it never +for a moment be <a name="corr53" id="corr53"></a>forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, if +you wish to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. Again, +take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your +pursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship, +benevolence, or duty. The young lady who can forget her moral and +domestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, gives but +little promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages of life.</p> + +<p>Let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements.</p> + +<p>Cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in paper, +writing the color on each, and numbering them according to their shades, +1, 2, 3, &c., beginning with the darkest.</p> + +<p>Dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble or +<a name="corr54" id="corr54"></a>inconvenience, and use every possible care to prevent your work from +being spoiled in the performance.</p> + +<p>We advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting and +design; and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high and +moral development of the heart, and of the character.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[97]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XII.</span><br /> + +KNITTING.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_KNITTING" id="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_KNITTING"></a>EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Before</span> entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter, we wish to +make a few remarks; which, we trust, will be acceptable to our fair +readers.</p> + +<p>The art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the Spanish; +and would doubtless form, in connection with needlework, an agreeable +relaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movements +which made up, for the most part, the lives of the ancient female +nobility of that peninsula. The Scotch also lay claim to the invention, +but we think upon no sufficient authority. Knitted silk-hose were first +worn in England by Henry VIII., and we are told that a present of a pair +of long knitted silk stockings, of Spanish manufacture, was presented to +the young prince (Edward VI.), by Sir Thomas Gresham, and was graciously +received, as a gift of some importance. Clumsy and unsightly cloth-hose +had been previously worn: and, though we are told by Howel, that Queen +Elizabeth was presented with a pair of black <i>knitted</i> silk stockings, +by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were not +allowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed only +suited to regal magnificence. We believe the first pair of knitted +stockings, ever made in Eng<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[98]</a></span>land, were the production of one William +Rider, an apprentice, residing on London Bridge; who, having +accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained on +some business, at the house of one of the Italian merchants, made a pair +of a similar kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. The +stocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. <a name="corr55" id="corr55"></a>Lee, M. A., who had been +expelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutes +of the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to the +necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art of +knitting, for their subsistence; and as necessity is the parent of +invention, Mr. Lee, by carefully watching the motion of the needles, was +enabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking-frame; which has been the +source of much advantage to others, though there is reason to believe +the contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor. Since +its first <a name="corr56" id="corr56"></a>introduction, knitting has been applied to a vast variety of +purposes, and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief. It +has furnished to the blind, the indigent, and almost destitute Irish +cottage girl, the <a name="corr57" id="corr57"></a>means, pleasure and profit at the same time. Many +ladies, including some in the rank of royalty, have employed their hours +of leisure in the fabrication of articles, the produce of which have +gone to the funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of at +least some of</p> + +<p class="poem">“The numerous ills that flesh is heir to;”</p> + +<p class="noindent">and amongst those, the labors of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, upon the +estates of Lord de Vesci, in Ireland, ought not to be forgotten.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Cast_on_the_Loops_or_Stitches" id="To_Cast_on_the_Loops_or_Stitches"></a>To Cast on the Loops or Stitches.</span>—Take the material in the right hand, +and twist it round the little finger, bring it under the next two, and +pass it over the fore finger. Then take the end in the left hand, +(holding the needle in the right,) wrap it round<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[99]</a></span> the little finger, and +thence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. By this +process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she must +then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and above +that which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle, +which must be brought down through the loop, and the thread which is in +the left hand, being drawn tight, completes the operation. This process +must be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Knitting_Stitch" id="Knitting_Stitch"></a>Knitting Stitch.</span>—The needle must be put through the cast-on stitch, and +the material turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the under +loop, or stitch, is to be let off. This is called plain stitch, and is +to be continued until one round is completed.</p> + +<p><a name="corr58" id="corr58"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Pearl_Stitch" id="Pearl_Stitch"></a>Pearl Stitch.</span>—Called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is formed by +knitting with the material before the needle; and instead of bringing +the needle over the upper thread, it is brought under it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Rib" id="To_Rib"></a>To Rib</span>, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. Three plain, +and three pearled, is generally the rule.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_cast_over" id="To_cast_over"></a>To cast over.</span>—This means bringing the material round the needle, +forward.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Narrowing" id="Narrowing"></a>Narrowing.</span>—This is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting two +together, so as to form only one loop.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Raising" id="Raising"></a>Raising.</span>—This is to increase the number of stitches, and is effected by +knitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip out the left +hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch, +putting the needle under the stitch. Care must be taken to put the +thread back when the additional stitch is finished.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Seam" id="To_Seam"></a>To Seam.</span>—Knit a pearl stitch every alternate row.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Row" id="A_Row"></a>A Row</span>, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[100]</a></span> other; and +a <span class="smcap">ROUND</span>, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. <span class="smcap">Note</span>, +in <a name="corr59" id="corr59"></a>casting on a stocking, there must always be an odd stitch cast on for +the seam.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_bring_the_thread_forward" id="To_bring_the_thread_forward"></a>To bring the thread forward</span>, means to pass it between the needles toward +the person of the operator.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Loop_Stitch" id="A_Loop_Stitch"></a>A Loop Stitch</span>, is made by passing the thread before the needle. In +knitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper place.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Slip_Stitch" id="A_Slip_Stitch"></a>A Slip Stitch</span>, is made by passing it from one needle to another without +knitting it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_fasten_on" id="To_fasten_on"></a>To fasten on.</span>—This term refers to fastening the end of the material, +when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. The best +way is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other, and knit a few +stitches with both.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_cast_off" id="To_cast_off"></a>To cast off.</span>—This is done by knitting two stitches, passing the first +over the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which is to be +made secure by passing thread through it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Welts" id="Welts"></a>Welts</span>, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done at the +top of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting or curling +up.</p> + +<p>Sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, or in a +variety of neat and fanciful patterns. Scarcely any kind of work is +susceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so many ornamental +fabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair votary of this art must be +careful neither to knit too tight or too loose. A medium, which will +soon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and shows the +various kinds of work to the best advantage. The young lady should take +care to preserve her needles entirely free from rust, and to handle the +materials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[101]</a></span>Having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this useful +art, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful.</p> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="FANCY_STITCHES_IN_KNITTING" id="FANCY_STITCHES_IN_KNITTING"></a>FANCY STITCHES IN KNITTING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bees_Stitch" id="Bees_Stitch"></a>Bee’s Stitch.</span>—In knitting a purse in this stitch, you must cast the +loops on three needles, having twenty on each. The two first rows in +plain knitting. The third is thus worked. Having brought the silk in +front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the one +you slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one is +pearled; proceed in this manner for one round. The next round you knit +plain; the next is to be executed like the third. Proceed thus in +alternate rounds, and you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted, +knitting six or eight rounds of each.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Berlin_Wire_Stitch" id="Berlin_Wire_Stitch"></a>Berlin Wire Stitch.</span>—The stitches cast on must be an even number. Knit +three, four, or five plain rows. Then begin the work by taking off the +first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and make +a stitch; repeat this process to the end of the row; the next row is to +be knitted plain, and so on alternately.</p> + +<p>This work may be done either with large pins and lamb’s wool, if it be +intended for shawls, &c., or with fine needles and thread, in which case +it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars, +and other articles of dress. If it is intended for insertion work, the +number of stitches cast on are eight, and one pattern is formed by each +four stitches.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Common_Plait" id="Common_Plait"></a>Common Plait.</span>—This is employed for muffatees, coverlets, and various +other articles. You cast on the stitches in threes:<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[102]</a></span> the number is +unlimited. Knit one row plain, then proceed as follows. Row first, three +plain stitches and three pearled. Second row the same, taking care to +begin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plain +stitches, you begin with the pearled. Proceed in the same way with the +third row, and you will have a succession of squares, of inside and +outside knitting, alternately. The fourth row is to be begun with the +same kind of stitches as completed the first row; continue as before, +and the work will be in squares, like those of a chess board. This +stitch is extremely pretty.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Chain_Stitch_Knitting" id="Chain_Stitch_Knitting"></a>Chain Stitch.</span>—The number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. Knit the +first two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three plain +stitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven stitches; +the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the other three +<a name="corr60" id="corr60"></a>stitches plain. The next row is plain knitting, and then you proceed as +in the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completed +sixteen rows. You then knit three stitches plain, and take off the four +succeeding ones upon a spare pin. The next three stitches from behind +the pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the material +is to be drawn so tight, as that <a name="corr61" id="corr61"></a>the pins may be connected together as +closely as possible. This done you knit the four stitches of the third +pin, which completes the twist. The remaining three stitches are then to +be knitted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearling +seven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when another +twist is to be made.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Crows-foot_Stitch" id="Crows-foot_Stitch"></a>Crow’s-foot Stitch.</span>—This stitch may be worked in two ways. If it be for +a shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the beginning and end of each +row.</p> + +<p>In the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[103]</a></span> can be +divided by three, and you must cast on one additional for the +commencement. You knit the first row plain and then proceed according to +the following directions: First, knit a stitch. Second, make a stitch. +Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two stitches together. Fifth, put the +stitch you slipped over the two last knitted; this is to be repeated, +with the exception of the first knitted stitch, to the end of the row. +The next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches. This stitch is +neat and elegant.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Knitting" id="Double_Knitting"></a>Double Knitting.</span>—Of this stitch there are three kinds, now in general +use. In executing them proceed as follows. Having cast on any even +number of stitches, knit a few rows in plain knitting; then, for the +double stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the material +in front, between the knitting pins. Then a stitch is to be taken off, +being careful to put the needle inside the loop, and to pass the +material back again. You then knit another stitch, and so proceed to the +end of the row.</p> + +<p>For the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even number of +stitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain; the material +being put twice over the pin. Then, as in the first kind, pass the +material between the needles; a stitch is to be slipped, and the +material passed again behind. This process is repeated in every stitch +to the end of the row. In the next row, you reverse the work, knitting +the stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones. +The third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others. +It is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside +out; hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. The +number of stitches must be even, as in the previous <a name="corr62" id="corr62"></a>methods. No plain +row is needed; but you commence by putting the material in front of the +pins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[104]</a></span> Turn +the first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till the +row is finished.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dutch_Common_Knitting" id="Dutch_Common_Knitting"></a>Dutch Common Knitting.</span>—This is the common knitting stitch, performed in +a more expeditious manner than that in general practised. The needle +filled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and the material also, +which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. It passes +to the needles over the fore finger. To form the loop on the needle held +in the right hand, it is only necessary to put it into the stitch from +behind, and knit off by putting the material round the needle.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Embossed_Diamond" id="Embossed_Diamond"></a>Embossed Diamond.</span>—You cast on any number of stitches which can be +divided by seven. The first row is plain: for the second, pearl one +stitch, knit five, and pearl two; thus proceed, alternately, to complete +the row: for the third, knit two, pearl three, and knit four, and so +proceed. The fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six, +alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. The next row you pearl +two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. Next knit two, pearl +four and knit three, alternately. Next knit six, and pearl one, +successively. Reverse the next, pearling six, and knitting one. Then in +the succeeding row, knit five and pearl three, and knit four in +succession. Next knit three, pearl two, and knit five, alternately. The +succeeding row is plain.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Embossed_Hexagon_Stitch" id="Embossed_Hexagon_Stitch"></a>Embossed Hexagon Stitch.</span>—You can work with any number of <a name="corr63" id="corr63"></a>stitches you +choose, which can be divided by six. The first row is plain, the next +pearled throughout; the third row is plain. For the first knit four +stitches, and slip two at the end; then pearl a row, taking <a name="corr64" id="corr64"></a>care to slip +the stitches that were slipped before. Next knit a row slipping the two +stitches as before. The next row is pearled still slipping the two +stitches. The succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the +others, and the two stitches<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[105]</a></span> are still to be slipped. The next row is +pearled, and you take up all the stitches; then a row is to be knitted +plain, and a row pearled, which completes the pattern. In beginning the +next pattern, you pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, so +that they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously worked +pattern; you then proceed as before.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Elastic_Rib" id="Elastic_Rib"></a>Elastic Rib.</span>—This as its name implies, is the proper stitch for +garters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yet +firmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit one +row plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; then one +pearled, and so on alternately to the end.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Fantail_Stitch" id="Fantail_Stitch"></a>Fantail Stitch.</span>—The application of this stitch is in the preparation of +mitts, gloves, &c., and sometimes it is used for purses, in which it +looks extremely pretty. The material generally employed is cotton, and +you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. A loop +is made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, and +make and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitted plain, and +you narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row, at the second +and third loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally cast +on. The usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="French_Stitch" id="French_Stitch"></a>French Stitch.</span>—You set on the loops in fours, and must have two over. +The first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, and knit two +stitches together. Form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front, +and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and the +last stitch pearled, which completes the pattern. The next row is begun +in a similar manner, the thread is turned back, two stitches are knitted +together at the end, the thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="German_Knitting" id="German_Knitting"></a>German Knitting.</span>—You cast on twenty-one stitches, and pro<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[106]</a></span>ceed as +follows. First row, the material is to be passed forward, one stitch +slipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; three stitches +are then to be knitted, and two taken as one; again pass the material +forward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the same, except that when in +the first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knit +three. For the third row, you pass the material as before, and slip one +stitch, then two are taken as one, and the slipped one is passed over +again; repeat this, except that in taking two stitches together, you +knit one, and pass the slipped one over; finish by knitting two +stitches.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Honeycomb_Stitch" id="Honeycomb_Stitch"></a>Honeycomb Stitch.</span>—This is also often used for shawls. It is knitted as +follows. You knit the first stitch, and pass the other to make a loop +over the needle. Two stitches are then knitted together, and you thus +continue making the loops, and <a name="corr65" id="corr65"></a>knitting two stitches together, until you +have completed the row. You knit every second row thus; the alternate +ones plain.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Herring-bone_Bag_Stitch" id="Herring-bone_Bag_Stitch"></a>Herring-bone Bag Stitch.</span>—You cast on the stitches by fours, and the +material used is silk. Knit two plain stitches, and then make a large +one, by turning the silk twice over the needle; after which, knit two +stitches together, and repeat this, until you have completed the work.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Imitation_Net-work_Stitch" id="Imitation_Net-work_Stitch"></a>Imitation Net-work Stitch.</span>—You set on any number of stitches you +please, but you must have no odd ones. The first row is plain knitting. +The next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin, and +twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting it +behind again. You are then to knit two loops together, and the pin must +be put first into the one nearest to you, and the wool is to be twisted +round the pin as before. Then again, knit two together, and so on to the +end. Each row is done in the same manner.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[107]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Knit_Herring-bone_Stitch" id="Knit_Herring-bone_Stitch"></a>Knit Herring-bone Stitch.</span>—Any number of stitches you please may be cast +on, observing to have three for each pattern, and one over at each end. +The first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off the +first stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. Next make one, by +passing the material before, and knitting one, pearl two stitches +together, and make and knit a stitch as before. Every row is the same.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Lace_Wave_Stitch" id="Lace_Wave_Stitch"></a>Lace Wave Stitch.</span>—The number of stitches must be even. The first stitch +is to be slipped; then knit one, and make one, by casting the material +over the pin. Narrow, by knitting two stitches together, and again knit +a stitch; then make one, and again narrow; and so on till you complete +the row. The next row is done plain. The third row is as follows: two +stitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; then +knit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row +plain. For the fifth row, knit three <a name="corr66" id="corr66"></a>stitches plain, and thus proceed as +in the third row. The sixth row is done plain; and the seventh one +commences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding as +before. The eighth row is plain; and the ninth is begun by knitting five +plain stitches, and proceed as above; then knit two rows plain, and the +pattern is complete. This can be continued to any length required.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Moss_Stitch" id="Moss_Stitch"></a>Moss Stitch.</span>—This is easily done. Cast on any even number of loops, and +for the first row, the first loop is slipped, the material brought in +front; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end. The next row is +so worked, that the stitches knit in the proceeding row, must be pearled +in this.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Open_Hem" id="Open_Hem"></a>Open Hem.</span>—The number of stitches is unlimited, but they must be capable +of being divided by four. At the beginning of each row you slip the +first stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[108]</a></span> by putting the +cotton over the pin; knit two loops together; knit one stitch, make a +stitch, and so proceed. You must have very fine pins and sewing cotton.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Open_Cross_Stitch" id="Open_Cross_Stitch"></a>Open Cross Stitch.</span>—This is done in the following manner. Two colors are +to be employed, and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch. In +working the second row of each, the following is the order of procedure: +first, knit a stitch: second, make a stitch; third, slip one; fourth, +two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn over +the knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. The two next +are to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rows +with each color, successively. The fresh color is always to cross from +beneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the work. In +the making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and it looks well, +but, of course, requires to be bordered with some other pattern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Ornamental_Ladder_Stitch" id="Ornamental_Ladder_Stitch"></a>Ornamental Ladder Stitch.</span>—The stitches are to be set on in elevens. +Commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit two together, and +repeat the same, drawing the first loop over the second; proceed thus to +the end. Commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass the +material over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed to +the end. In the next row, knit two; pass the material round the pin +twice, knit two, and so continue. Thus you proceed with alternate rows +of knitted and pearled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches made +by throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pine_Apple_Stitch" id="Pine_Apple_Stitch"></a>Pine Apple Stitch.</span>—For a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on three +needles, and proceed thus: First row, knit one plain, raise one by +throwing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, then raise, knit two +plain, you knit the next two together, drawing<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</a></span> the last loop over the +first; you will then have six loops. In the second row, knit the first +raised loop, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plain +till you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together as +in the first row. Third row, you knit plain to the raising, and then +proceed as in the first row. You knit the fourth as the second; and so +proceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. Then in the stitches +you had previously narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead upon +each plain loop, with a thread, and again raise. Where you had +previously raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk. +In this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until you have +twelve rows as before. You then reverse, and again work as in the first +part of the pattern.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Open_Stitch" id="Plain_Open_Stitch"></a>Plain Open Stitch.</span>—The stitches set on must be an even number. The two +first rows are plain. Then commence the third row, by knitting one +stitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knitting +two together. This is to be repeated, until you come to the last stitch, +which must be knit. Then knit two plain rows and proceed as before.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Porcupine_Stitch" id="Porcupine_Stitch"></a>Porcupine Stitch.</span>—This is proper for a purse, and when properly +executed, is extremely pretty. You cast on, upon each of three needles, +thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. For the next, you knit four +stitches: and, having brought the silk forward, knit one loop: this will +form the middle stitch of the pattern. Then, again bringing the silk +forward, knit fourteen stitches; after which, slip one, and leaving the +under part, knit two together, and draw the stitches, last slipped, over +it. Then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed for +six rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. You knit +till within one of where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to be +slipped, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</a></span> you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over +it. You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also +plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where you +are to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. You next knit +a round plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside of +the purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as this purse is done +the wrong side out. You are to knit, until you come within one loop of +the bead, which must be slipped, and you knit the next two together. You +are then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased as +in the proceeding pattern, which will make that the middle or bead +stitch. The material should be done in middle sized purse silk, on +needles, No. 18.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Rough-cast_Stitch" id="Rough-cast_Stitch"></a>Rough-cast Stitch.</span>—Any odd number of stitches may be cast on. Each row +is begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearled +alternately. This is very suitable for borders, as it is firm and looks +neat.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Wave_Knitting" id="Wave_Knitting"></a>Wave Knitting.</span>—This is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks extremely +neat. Commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. Then proceed as +follows. First row, knit four loops plain, pearl one, knit nine plain, +and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops. +Commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain, +pearl seven, repeat as before. Third row, knit two plain, pearl five, +knit five plain, repeat. Fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearl +three, repeat. Fifth row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, and +repeat to the end. This finishes the pattern.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XIII.</span><br /> + +KNITTING.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXAMPLES_IN_KNITTING" id="EXAMPLES_IN_KNITTING"></a>EXAMPLES IN KNITTING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Biroche" id="A_Biroche"></a>A Biroche.</span>—The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool forward, slip +one, and knit two together. This elegant cushion is made up of sixteen +narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually toward +the centre. It may be made in double German wool, or other material, +with No. 19 ivory or wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit two +turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this +forms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit two +stitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be +continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until +you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You will now find +the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. You then again +commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed. +When the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrow +stripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Babys_Cap" id="A_Babys_Cap"></a>A Baby’s Cap.</span>—Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds, +and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding round +you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the <a name="corr67" id="corr67"></a>preceding ones. +Then take in eighty stitches, namely;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</a></span> one at every fourth, which will +form a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain, +the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again +knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again +repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you +next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on +twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of +double knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows +plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off at +top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and open +rows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; then +increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, and +decrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Babys_Hood" id="Babys_Hood"></a>Baby’s Hood.</span>—Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; cast on fifty +stitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front. +Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest +is to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast on fifty stitches to form the +foundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. Line with white silk, +and trim with satin ribbon.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Babys_Shoe" id="Babys_Shoe"></a>Baby’s Shoe.</span>—Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast on twenty-eight +stitches, <i>in blue</i>, and knit one row plain; then knit a plain row in +white, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn; then a +similar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this without +increasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have ten +stripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeen +stitches. You begin from the heel. The remaining thirteen stitches are +knitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, +until you have five rows <a name="corr68" id="corr68"></a>of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</a></span> one color, and four of the other. The +thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to +correspond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other, +decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to +form a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches +round the <a name="corr69" id="corr69"></a>ankle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the +three needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing the +wool forward, then slip one; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch +over them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for one +round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish, +bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rows +plain, and cast off. You must use No. 14 needles, and double German +wool.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Beautiful_Fringe_and_Border" id="A_Beautiful_Fringe_and_Border"></a>A Beautiful Fringe and Border.</span>—This can be applied to a variety of +useful purposes. It is executed as follows. The number of stitches must +be even, and of any depth you deem desirable. Begin, by making a stitch, +laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit +them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as many +rows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten +off, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel +for the fringe.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Comforter" id="A_Comforter"></a>A Comforter.</span>—On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and in +knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each <a name="corr70" id="corr70"></a>stitch. The +comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a +fringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will require a +quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb’s wool; for the fringe a +little more will be required.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Another_Comforter" id="Another_Comforter"></a>Another Comforter.</span>—You are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plain +sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards;<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</a></span> then take +twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have +twenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by knitting as before, +twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and it +is done.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Zephyr" id="Zephyr"></a>Zephyr.</span>—This is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made either of a +half-handkerchief form, or a square. Cast on about 130 loops, and knit +in French or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other pretty +pattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, &c. You may add a fringe and +<a name="corr71" id="corr71"></a>border, which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="An_Over-shoe" id="An_Over-shoe"></a>An Over-shoe.</span>—These are useful to wear in the house, or to slip over a +satin shoe, when occasion requires. The number of stitches to be cast on +is thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewn +up on one side, to the heel; then sew up three inches for the instep, +and form the toe by puckering in the end.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Knitted_Muff" id="A_Knitted_Muff"></a>A Knitted Muff, in imitation of Sable.</span>—You cast on seventy or eighty +stitches. Knit the first three rows plain; then, for the fourth row, +bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches at the back, knit them; +repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is about +half a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct as +possible. You must here use No. 19 needles, and double German wool. The +shades required are four, and you begin with the lightest, proceeding to +the darkest, and then reversing them. The muff must be stuffed, and +lined with silk.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Strong_Knitted_Purse" id="A_Strong_Knitted_Purse"></a>A Strong Knitted Purse.</span>—Any number of stitches, that can be divided by +three, will do. First and third row: The wool is to be brought forward, +then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeat +second and fourth row plain. Third and fifth row: knit two, before +commencing the pattern; the holes<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</a></span> will then fall in a diagonal +direction: It will require to be well stretched.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Barege_Knitting_for_Shawls" id="Barege_Knitting_for_Shawls"></a>Barege Knitting, for Shawls.</span>—In this kind of work, you commence with +any number of stitches you require: and, after knitting one row plain, +you begin the second, by knitting three <a name="corr72" id="corr72"></a>stitches; then, bring the wool +forward, and knit three together, taking them off at the back; again you +bring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. The third row is +pearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning by +knitting three stitches together. Fifth row, the same as the third; and +thus proceed with any number of rows you choose. You may introduce any +patterns in flowers, &c., you may desire, by breaking off the ground +color, and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by means +of a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. All flowers, &c., must be +done in plain knitting.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Checked_Patterns" id="Checked_Patterns"></a>Checked Patterns.</span>—Any number of stitches may be cast on, that can be +divided by six. Then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches, and +three plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and three +pearl. This pattern may be worked for children’s socks, bags, mats, (if +done in coarse materials,) &c.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Close_Stitch_for_a_Waistcoat" id="Close_Stitch_for_a_Waistcoat"></a>Close Stitch, for a Waistcoat.</span>—This is to be done in two colors, and +cast on any odd number of stitches. First and fifth row, with one color; +knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second and sixth row, with the +same color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass the +wool back, knit one, repeat. The third is the first reversed, and the +fourth is worked exactly as the second, omitting the first stitch.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Pine_Apple_Purse" id="Pine_Apple_Purse"></a>Pine Apple Purse.</span>—The material is purse twist, and you will require two +colors; one skein of green, and one and a half of orange. Cast on 159 +stitches, and proceed as follows. Knit the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</a></span> first row, and turn it, then +knit two rows, and again turn. To have ten points you must narrow and +widen alternately every seven stitches. Proceed in this way with the +green twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain row +and turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then +reverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of +every row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eight +rows of points. You make no loops in the second row, but having counted +when you have finished the points, you seam in the first row of green +and reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops, proceed to knit +twelve rows; after which, you must narrow until you have but four loops +on each pin, then knit the stalks, and narrow off.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Star_with_Eight_Points" id="Star_with_Eight_Points"></a>Star, with Eight Points.</span>—This is proper for the bottom of a bag or +purse. In working it, proceed according to the following directions. You +work with five needles, on each of four of which you cast on two +stitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. Then, first row, raise, +knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop. +Second row, you knit a plain round. Third row, raise, knit two plain, +raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of each +needle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle, +for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. To take off the points, proceed as +follows: first row, raise one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needle +as in knitting, knit one, and draw the one not knitted over it; knit +plain, and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle; thus +proceed with each pin, and the star will be completed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Knee_Caps" id="Knee_Caps"></a>Knee Caps.</span>—You commence with casting on eleven loops, and knitting +eight rounds; then begin to raise every alternate round until you have +forty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</a></span> plain, and then +narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. Take off.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Knitting_Footing" id="Knitting_Footing"></a>Knitting Footing.</span>—The material is fine cotton, and you cast eleven +stitches. Knit one row plain. Second row, knit one, make one, knit two +together, knit three plain, make one, knit two together knit three +plain. Third row, is the second row reversed; the fourth is the same as +the second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for any +length you please. A bag knitted the same way, and put over blue or +crimson silk, looks extremely handsome. The material for a bag is fine +worsted, and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be divided +by eleven, taking care to have one additional stitch for each +twenty-two; that is, for four elevens, cast on forty-six.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Nightcap" id="Double_Nightcap"></a>Double Nightcap.</span>—You will find five needles are required. You must cast +on two stitches on each of four needles, and in the first row increase +two, and in the second one plain stitch in each. In the third row, the +centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on +each side of it every other row, until you have attained the width +required. You then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain, until +the cap is of a sufficient length, say twenty-four to twenty-eight +inches, then decrease the first row, and make the other end to +correspond with the one first knitted.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dotted_Knitting" id="Dotted_Knitting"></a>Dotted Knitting, for Baby’s Shoes, &c.</span>—Cast on and knit as many rows as +you desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. Begin every +other row with a pearled stitch. An odd number of stitches are required, +and No. 8 needles.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Knitted_Fringe" id="Knitted_Fringe"></a>Knitted Fringe.</span>—This may be made of any material deemed most suitable +for the purposes to which it is to be applied. Cast on eight stitches. +First knit two, then make one by bringing the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</a></span> cotton round the needle, +and knitting it when it <a name="corr73" id="corr73"></a>occurs in the next row; then knit two stitches +together, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight, +and so proceed to the end of the row. When you have knitted as many rows +as you require, cast off five stitches and leave three, to be +unravelled, for the fringe. They may be knitted in two or more colors, +taking care to knit them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal number +of stitches in each color.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Gentlemans_Travelling_Cap" id="Gentlemans_Travelling_Cap"></a>Gentleman’s Travelling Cap.</span>—You first cast on an even number of +stitches, and thus proceed; the first row is plain; then slip off the +first stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the material in +front; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and so +proceed to the end of the row: you commence the next by slipping a +stitch as before; then knit two stitches together to the last, which is +to be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Herring-bone_Purse" id="Herring-bone_Purse"></a>Herring-bone Purse.</span>—The number of stitches must be so as to be divided +by four. The silk is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit one, and +bring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, again bring the silk forward, +pearl one, and so repeat. This purse should be knitted with second sized +netting silk, No. 13.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Half_Handkerchief" id="Half_Handkerchief"></a>Half Handkerchief.</span>—This is extremely pretty, when properly executed. +Begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit as many rows, +increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon the +pin. You must increase always at the same end: then commence the +pattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together, +putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. Repeat this +until you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make a +stitch, and knit the remainder plain. The next row is to be done in +pearl stitch, and the succeeding one as the first pattern. Every row of +pearl stitch must be in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</a></span>creased one, and the three last stitches are to +be knitted plain. This handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long +on the straight side. When completed, fasten off.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Habit_Shirt" id="Habit_Shirt"></a>Habit Shirt.</span>—These are worn under a shawl, and are extremely +comfortable: they protect the chest from cold. The material most proper +for them is floss wool, and they should be knitted with steel pins. You +knit the front first, and begin by casting on as many loops as will form +the length required. As it is necessary that one end should be a good +deal more sloped than the other, you must be careful to increase at the +end most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are only +to increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one of +the fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back. +Commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at +each end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one +shoulder to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row for +the neck. You then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on one +side and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper hollow is +obtained. You then knit the collar straight, and of any depth you +please. Make up, by sewing the various parts together, and set on a +ribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and another to secure it at +the throat.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Harlequin_Quilt" id="Harlequin_Quilt"></a>Harlequin Quilt, with Tucks.</span>—This is done in double knitting stitch, +with six threads fleecy. The pieces are six inches square. Each square +consists of about 24 stitches, and they are to be sewn together with a +tuft of wool, black or white, at each corner. The square should be +knitted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yard +and a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should be +white. Make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times +round a grooved<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[120]</a></span> wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarse +thread in the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care that +an end is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to the +quilt. The loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the +mesh; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible.</p> + +<p><a name="corr74" id="corr74"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="Pattern_for_a_Light_Scarf" id="Pattern_for_a_Light_Scarf"></a>Pattern for a Light Scarf.</span>—Cast on the number of stitches required upon +No. 18 needles, and any kind of material you choose; three-threads +fleecy is <a name="corr75" id="corr75"></a>generally preferred. Knit one plain stitch, then two together, +and so on alternately, to the end of the row: each succeeding one is but +a repetition of the first: it may be done in stripes, with various +colors.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Knitted_Muffatees" id="Plain_Knitted_Muffatees"></a>Plain Knitted Muffatees.</span>—For these you will require four needles. On +three of these cast on an equal number of stitches, according to the +size required, and knit each round three pearl and three plain: finish +with one plain and two pearl rows.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Stockings" id="Stockings"></a>Stockings.</span>—Cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 99, fifth +109, sixth 133. Then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings, +40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, according to the sizes given +above. The narrowings in the leg are according to the size, 8, 10, 12, +13, 14, and 21. After which you knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds to +the heel, which is to be formed in the following manner. The stitches +are to be divided in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for the +middle, and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and +pearled stitches. The length, of course, varies in proportion to the +size, being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 for +the fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. The heel is finished +by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, and +taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[121]</a></span> till all is +taken off. There will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished. +Having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. You take +up sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking them +up, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitch +in the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in the +corners, that would otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round on +the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as +those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle. +You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be; +and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 14, 18, 23, +26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the narrowings for the feet will be 6, +8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, according to the measurement given. +You begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams, leaving only the +seam stitch between, and narrowing twice with three, and twice with two +rounds left between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but one +round between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only are +left. Finish by putting the two needles having stitches on them +together. And when two stitches are done in this manner, cast them off, +the first over the last, until the whole is taken off the needles. It +should be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of the +stocking, and are as follows: first size 29, second 33, third 33, fourth +37, fifth 41, and sixth 45.</p> + +<p>Some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe is here +directed to be finished.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Open-work_Stockings" id="Open-work_Stockings"></a>Open-work Stockings.</span>—On each needle cast on 52 stitches with fine +cotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. When you +arrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, and when you have 38 +stitches on each needle, cease, and knit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[122]</a></span> until the article is +completed; then take half the stitches to form the heel, knit 23 loops, +and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows. In forming the heel, +narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam, and then the loops +must be taken up, the end one as close as possible. Take three stitches +from each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round +plain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. +Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36 +loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and +sixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrow +at the ends of the needles every other row, until only ten remain on +each; narrow every row until you have only three, which you cast off in +the usual manner. The open pattern is produced by knitting every fifth +round thus: take two stitches in one, and bring the cotton in front of +the needle, that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding two +into one. The more open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitches +and the finer needles you will require.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Night_Stocking" id="A_Night_Stocking"></a>A Night Stocking.</span>—This is easily done: cast on 54 stitches on large +needles, and pearl every other <a name="corr76" id="corr76"></a>stitch, narrowing gradually toward the +end.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Socks" id="Socks"></a>Socks.</span>—These are very useful articles, and are easy of execution. In +the first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and in the third +85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25, +29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The instep has 24, 25, or +42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 12, or 14 turns. The +length of the foot between the narrowings, is 10, 15, and 28 rounds.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Corner_for_a_Shawl" id="Corner_for_a_Shawl"></a>Corner for a Shawl.</span>—This, if properly executed, according to the +directions, looks extremely handsome. Begin by casting<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[123]</a></span> on two loops, to +form the point; knit them, and proceed as follows. First row, make a +loop, knit the two original ones together, make a loop; you will then +have three loops upon the pin; knit four additional rows in plain and +pearled alternately, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of +each row, and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. In +the next row commence the pattern thus. Sixth row begin with six plain +stitches, pearl one, knit six plain. Seventh row plain knitting. Eighth +row, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit two +together, pearl one, knit six plain. Ninth row plain. Tenth, knit six +plain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit two together, +again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make +a stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row <a name="corr77" id="corr77"></a>plain. Twelfth, knit six plain, +knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two +together, make a <a name="corr78" id="corr78"></a>stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, +knit six plain. Thirteenth row plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl +three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, +pearl three, make a stitch, knit two <a name="corr79" id="corr79"></a>together, pearl three, knit six +plain. Fifteenth row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a +stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. +Seventeenth row plain. Eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit two +together, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, +knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a +stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Nineteenth row +plain. Twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl three, knit +two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[124]</a></span> two together, +make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl +three, knit two together, knit six plain. The twenty-first row is plain, +and you then decrease as you increased, knitting the <a name="corr80" id="corr80"></a>twenty-second row +as the twentieth, and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin. +The square is then complete.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Border_for_the_Shawl" id="Border_for_the_Shawl"></a>Border for the Shawl.</span>—Having finished the corner, pick up the +twenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain; the second row, +knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again pearl three, then +three plain, pearl three, knit four plain. The third row knit plain; the +fourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl three together, knit one, pearl one, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. Fifth row plain. +Sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, +knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain. +Eighth row, same as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth. +Eleventh plain. Twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, and +re-commence the pattern. The shawl must be knitted on the same sized +pins as the border and corner, and must have as many loops as there are +stitches in the length of the border. The border and corner may be done +in two colors, which must harmonize well with each other, and form a +good contrast to the shawl itself.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[125]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XIV.</span><br /> + +NETTING.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_NETTING" id="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_NETTING"></a>EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Netting</span> is another employment, to which the attention of the fair has +been directed from the remotest times. Specimens of Egyptian network, +performed three thousand years since, are still in existence; and, from +that time, the art, in connection with that of spinning flax, was there +carried to its highest state of perfection. With these specimens, are +preserved some of the needles anciently used in netting. They are to be +found in one of the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made of +flax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, “they +could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry a +sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius Lupus, while +governor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each string of which +consisted of one hundred and fifty threads.” But even this fineness was +far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, presented by Amasis, king +of Egypt, to the Rhodians, the threads of which, as we learn from the +same authority, were each composed of three hundred and sixty-five +fibres. Herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[126]</a></span>In connection with other elegant female accomplishments, netting has +continued to claim the attention of the ladies of Europe, in every +advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivated +with considerable success. Netting was a favorite employment of the late +Queen Charlotte, during the latter years of her life.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 154px;"> +<a href="images/illus-126-full.png"><img src="images/illus-126.png" width="154" height="102" alt="Plain Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Netting" id="Plain_Netting"></a>Plain Netting.</span>—Take the mesh in the left hand, (having previously made +a long loop with twine, and fixed it to any convenient support,) between +the two first fingers and the thumb. The netting needle must be threaded +with the material, and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spoken +of, and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot +<i>under</i> the twine. The silk is to be held in the right hand between the +fore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the left +hand, so that the material may be formed into a slack loop, passing over +all the fingers, except the little one. In this position, the silk must +be held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, and +the needle must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing the +material to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. The +needle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass +under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus through +the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of the +material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop. +The needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is so +brought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needle +being drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengage +all the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its hold +of the second loop, which<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[127]</a></span> was formed by passing the material round it. +By means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to +be drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the +foundation. This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of +stitches are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the net +desired. As the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered to +drop off; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn out, and a row +of loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respective +knots, and moving freely onwards. The work is then to be turned over, +which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed; and in netting a +second row, it will be done as before from left to right. In commencing +the second, and all the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed as +to come up close to the bottom of the <a name="corr81" id="corr81"></a>preceding row or loops, and the +former process with the needle must be repeated. It will be needful, to +have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, or +otherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible it +should do.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Bead_Stitch" id="Bead_Stitch"></a>Bead Stitch.</span>—To execute this stitch properly, requires care, but it is +very ornamental. Beads of all kinds, may be introduced. In order to net +with beads, you must procure a long taper darning needle: the stitch is +as follows; string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with: this +bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until the +knot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread, +passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh. +The needle and thread are then to be drawn through it, by which means +the bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made. By working the +beads in this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, and +so remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[128]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 147px;"> +<a href="images/illus-128-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-128-1.png" width="147" height="169" alt="Diamond Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Diamond_Netting" id="Diamond_Netting"></a>Diamond Netting.</span>—This kind of netting is easy of execution, and looks +extremely pretty. It is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch, +in order to effect which, the silk must be put twice round the mesh, +instead of once, as in plain netting. Treble diamond netting is similar, +only the process is rather more difficult in execution. After netting +three rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of +one loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is +finished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch, +then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before. +For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make a loop, +then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and the plain stitch +to the end of the row. For the <a name="corr82" id="corr82"></a>fourth row you net three stitches in +plain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat as in previous rows. +An attention to this arrangement, will soon enable the young student in +net-work, to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 154px;"> +<a href="images/illus-128-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-128-2.png" width="154" height="170" alt="Diamond Netting, of Five Stitches" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Diamond_Netting_of_Five_Stitches" id="Diamond_Netting_of_Five_Stitches"></a>Diamond Netting, of Five Stitches.</span>—Commence with a long loop, then net +five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long +loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet +the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before +commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Third +row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work +three plain loops. Begin the fourth<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[129]</a></span> row with a plain stitch, work a +long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain +stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed +to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a +loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the +mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with +three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two +plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a +long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins +with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch +plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row +with a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, +withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, +again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row +is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, +then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper for +this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse +twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 158px;"> +<a href="images/illus-129-full.png"><img src="images/illus-129.png" width="158" height="128" alt="Dotted Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dotted_Netting" id="Dotted_Netting"></a>Dotted Netting.</span>—This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops you +require, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you next +increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows +are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform +appearance, as in that consists its principal <a name="corr83" id="corr83"></a>beauty.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Shaded_Silk_Netting" id="Shaded_Silk_Netting"></a>Shaded Silk Netting.</span>—This is beautiful, when the shades blend well +together. Of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the next +needful must be matched with the utmost care.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[130]</a></span> It is not possible to +give minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things, +practice will insure success.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 147px;"> +<a href="images/illus-130-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-130-1.png" width="147" height="109" alt="Grecian Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Grecian_Netting" id="Grecian_Netting"></a>Grecian Netting.</span>—This is beautiful, and should be worked with fine +silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted +with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. The +silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle +must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into +the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the +first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers +and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, +that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kinds +of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is +completed. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, +and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best +accords with the design you are intending to accomplish.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 150px;"> +<a href="images/illus-130-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-130-2.png" width="150" height="125" alt="French Ground Net" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="French_Ground_Net" id="French_Ground_Net"></a>French Ground Net.</span>—You must have an even number of loops on the +foundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops, +alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin +the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; +commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and +the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, +the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Another_kind_of_Honeycomb_Netting" id="Another_kind_of_Honeycomb_Netting"></a>Another kind of Honeycomb Netting.</span>—Use a mesh No. 17, and set on an +even number of stitches. Net the first row plain, having the silk round +the mesh twice. For the second row you<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[131]</a></span> put the silk once round the mesh +and net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net the +first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch +plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, +alternately. The third row is the same as the first, and the fourth as +the second. These kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, +&c., and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four +or five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 158px;"> +<a href="images/illus-131-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-131-1.png" width="158" height="112" alt="Honeycomb Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Honeycomb_Netting" id="Honeycomb_Netting"></a>Honeycomb Netting.</span>—You are to make an even number of loops, putting the +silk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk +once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the +back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of +the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other +stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, the +silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceed +thus in alternate rows until the work is done.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 156px;"> +<a href="images/illus-131-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-131-2.png" width="156" height="112" alt="" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Honeycomb_Netting_with_two_Meshes" id="Honeycomb_Netting_with_two_Meshes"></a>Honeycomb Netting, with two Meshes.</span>—The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16. +Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with +the No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the second +stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth +stitch, and then the third, and so on to the <a name="corr84" id="corr84"></a>end. Work the third row +with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the +first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, +and so on to the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[132]</a></span> end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next +row is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first +twisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the +commencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This +kind of netting is proper for a veil.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 152px;"> +<a href="images/illus-132-full.png"><img src="images/illus-132.png" width="152" height="123" alt="" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Leaf_Netting" id="Leaf_Netting"></a>Leaf Netting.</span>—This is pretty when executed properly. You should work +with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern. +Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net +three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation +to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second row +as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four +loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; +repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The +third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, +then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two +loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row; +finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net +one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three +plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is +netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be +done.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Net_with_Points" id="Net_with_Points"></a>Net with Points.</span>—This is done by making a foundation of, say, ninety +stitches. Net on this foundation with any color you please. Net fifty +stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing ten +stitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. Two colors +are required.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[133]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 87px;"> +<a href="images/illus-133-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-133-1.png" width="87" height="153" alt="Maltese Netting, in Spots" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Maltese_Netting_in_Spots" id="Maltese_Netting_in_Spots"></a>Maltese Netting, in Spots.</span>—This is neat and elegant: it is done as +follows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row +by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, +and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without +netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you +are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted +separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is +to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. If +you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk +pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat +the operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appears +in the pattern, or in almost any form you please.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 117px;"> +<a href="images/illus-133-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-133-2.png" width="117" height="138" alt="Plain Open Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Open_Netting" id="Plain_Open_Netting"></a>Plain Open Netting.</span>—This is pretty, and easy of execution. The +operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop +stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may +net to any length you please. The direction here given is all that is +necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain +proficiency.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 143px;"> +<a href="images/illus-133-3-full.png"><img src="images/illus-133-3.png" width="143" height="86" alt="Round Netting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Round_Netting" id="Round_Netting"></a>Round Netting.</span>—You commence making the loops, as in common netting, by +twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk +through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, +between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be +kept on them<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[134]</a></span> as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought +down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting +direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw +your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. You <a name="corr85" id="corr85"></a>every <a name="corr86" id="corr86"></a>succeeding +loop in the same way.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[135]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XV.</span><br /> + +NETTING.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXAMPLES_IN_NETTING" id="EXAMPLES_IN_NETTING"></a>EXAMPLES IN NETTING.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Purse_with_China_Silk" id="A_Purse_with_China_Silk"></a>A Purse, with China Silk.</span>—Make as many stitches on the foundation as +you please. Net three rows with plain colors, then five with China silk. +Repeat.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Seam_Purse_with_Beads" id="A_Seam_Purse_with_Beads"></a>A Seam Purse, with Beads.</span>—You will need four skeins of fine silk, and a +mesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row. +Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. Net +the third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thus +till the purse is completed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Netted_Bag_with_Ring" id="A_Netted_Bag_with_Ring"></a>A Netted Bag, with Ring.</span>—On a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bag +to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the +bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the +bottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You may +use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Dice_Pattern_Purse" id="Dice_Pattern_Purse"></a>Dice Pattern Purse.</span>—This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. You +must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On a +foundation of ninety-eight <a name="corr87" id="corr87"></a>stitches, net seven with the darkest color. +You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to +the seventh stitch of the first row<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[136]</a></span> of the dark color, and net seven +rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must be +careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this process +until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the +squares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a +weaver’s knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Honeycomb_Mittens" id="Honeycomb_Mittens"></a>Honeycomb Mittens.</span>—You commence by casting on fifty stitches; the first +four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the +silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the +mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. The +first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second +is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and +the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches +with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two +increased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net +five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; +net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four +succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next +round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven +<a name="corr88" id="corr88"></a>stitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in +plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and +net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side +again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing +to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased, +and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the +thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until +that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round +with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain +netting; the silk is to be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[137]</a></span> fastened to the side of the thumb, in order +to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds +successively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in +the same manner you did the thumb, using double <a name="corr89" id="corr89"></a>silk.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Netted_Cuffs" id="Netted_Cuffs"></a>Netted Cuffs.</span>—The materials are German wool and French floss silk, and +the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15. +You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form +the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three +rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted +twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of +wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the +small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with +two narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having in +each loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and +do the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turning +the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of +border and finish to the <a name="corr90" id="corr90"></a>whole.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Netted_Cuff_with_Silk_and_Wool" id="Netted_Cuff_with_Silk_and_Wool"></a>Netted Cuff with Silk and Wool.</span>—On a foundation of ninety-six stitches, +and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row the +same. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in +German wool. The fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, with +wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net +fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be +done in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted in +dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color +as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper +shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[138]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Netted_Fringe" id="Netted_Fringe"></a>Netted Fringe.</span>—Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, dropping +off the stitches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with a +flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, +net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they +are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may +dictate.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Netted_Opera_Cap" id="Netted_Opera_Cap"></a>Netted Opera Cap.</span>—Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, +smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches. +You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well: +commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the +second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the +sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five +more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you +commence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches on +each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color +as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in +that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken +up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the +lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net +another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and +taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with +the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, +proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, +and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be folded +in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, +taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of the +cap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, net +a row with the narrow mesh,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[139]</a></span> to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the +cap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 188px;"> +<a href="images/illus-139-full.png"><img src="images/illus-139.png" width="188" height="110" alt="Netted Scollop Edging" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Netted_Scollop_Edging" id="Netted_Scollop_Edging"></a>Netted Scollop Edging.</span>—You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as +many stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be +No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the +other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat +mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the +foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain +stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in +long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to +increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of +the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the +increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The +fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which +finishes the scollop.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Netted_Gentlemans_Purse" id="Plain_Netted_Gentlemans_Purse"></a>Plain Netted Gentleman’s Purse.</span>—Of coarse netting silk, you will +require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation of +eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten +inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put +upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then +take it off and trim it as you please.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Ladys_Purse" id="A_Ladys_Purse"></a>A Lady’s Purse.</span>—Net in the same manner seventy stitches on the +foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No. +10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rows +with one, and four with the other.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Netted_Mittens" id="Plain_Netted_Mittens"></a>Plain Netted Mittens.</span>—Begin on forty-eight stitches as a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[140]</a></span> foundation, +and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a +mesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are to +be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one +plain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. Again net +round, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must then +net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the +same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the +thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, +decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you are +to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the +two together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes +the thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as +before. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12 +mesh, and five skeins of silk.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 187px;"> +<a href="images/illus-140-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-140-1.png" width="187" height="102" alt="A Plain Scollop" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Plain_Scollop" id="A_Plain_Scollop"></a>A Plain Scollop.</span>—You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is +the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase +twenty stitches in each <a name="corr91" id="corr91"></a>loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, +netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted +plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 143px;"> +<a href="images/illus-140-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-140-2.png" width="143" height="54" alt="Cap Border Scollop" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Cap_Border_Scollop" id="Cap_Border_Scollop"></a>Cap Border Scollop.</span>—You commence with one stitch for each scollop, as +in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and +increase in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the +round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. +The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preced<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[141]</a></span>ing one. +The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the +size of what is called third-sized purse twist.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Net_Cravat" id="Net_Cravat"></a>Net Cravat.</span>—This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9. +Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, net +twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or +white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed +thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides +together, and draw up the ends. You may add tassels, if you choose.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Net_Scarf" id="A_Net_Scarf"></a>A Net Scarf.</span>—This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No. +2, and in that kind of silk called <i>dockers</i>. You are to commence, by +casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, +and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, +completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which will +complete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have +tassels attached.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Long_Purse_in_Points" id="A_Long_Purse_in_Points"></a>A Long Purse, in Points.</span>—Upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitches +in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in the +next row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten, +always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten +unnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and +put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from +the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the +sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the +mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the +concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color the +ten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; and +you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern is +then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[142]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XVI.</span><br /> + +CROCHET.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="STITCHES_IN_CROCHET" id="STITCHES_IN_CROCHET"></a>STITCHES IN CROCHET.</h3> + +<p><span class="smcap">Crochet</span> has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the +fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very +difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a +variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted +in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, +and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, +cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate +share of attention to details, will make an expert workman.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Stitches" id="Stitches"></a>Stitches.</span>—These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, +plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. +It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though +it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably +correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one +end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so +on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather +tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the +foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she +intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[143]</a></span> +foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it +through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, +until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must +proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and +from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the +most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will +find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and +depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not +generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row +separately.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Crochet" id="Plain_Crochet"></a>Plain Crochet.</span>—Make only one loop in each stitch. In making common +purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Double_Crochet" id="Plain_Double_Crochet"></a>Plain Double Crochet.</span>—Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the +stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the others +described.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Stitch_Open_Crochet" id="Plain_Stitch_Open_Crochet"></a>Plain Stitch Open Crochet.</span>—This stitch is done in the following manner. +To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which +must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be +repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the +same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in +the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it <a name="corr92" id="corr92"></a>can be +varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct.</p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 109px;"> +<a href="images/illus-143-full.png"><img src="images/illus-143.png" width="109" height="60" alt="Open Crochet" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Open_Crochet" id="Open_Crochet"></a>Open Crochet.</span>—This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the +following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First +make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one +stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be +passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the +material, and you will thus have three stitches on<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[144]</a></span> the needle. Through +the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; +through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, +through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. +You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link +of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch +between each two double ones, which will leave an open space.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 97px;"> +<a href="images/illus-144-1-full.png"><img src="images/illus-144-1.png" width="97" height="57" alt="Double Open Crochet" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Open_Crochet" id="Double_Open_Crochet"></a>Double Open Crochet.</span>—This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch +is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the +needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have +two long stitches and one open stitch in succession.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 136px;"> +<a href="images/illus-144-2-full.png"><img src="images/illus-144-2.png" width="136" height="80" alt="Treble Open Crochet" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Treble_Open_Crochet" id="Treble_Open_Crochet"></a>Treble Open Crochet.</span>—This is exactly like the last, only making three +long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat +and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming +effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with +beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and +pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones.</p> +</div> + +<p>This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each <a name="corr93" id="corr93"></a>square. Beads +of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or +polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Double_Stitch_Crochet" id="Double_Stitch_Crochet"></a>Double Stitch Crochet.</span>—To work this you have only to take both meshes +of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Plain_Stitch_Elastic_Crochet" id="Plain_Stitch_Elastic_Crochet"></a>Plain Stitch Elastic Crochet.</span>—Work backward and forwards, first taking +one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken +first.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[145]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Bead_Stitch_crochet" id="Bead_Stitch_crochet"></a>Bead Stitch.</span>—If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you +intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a +bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to +pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on +by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong +side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the +front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping +the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back <a name="corr94" id="corr94"></a>of the stitch +you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and +make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the +bead is on the right side.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Edge_Stitch" id="Edge_Stitch"></a>Edge Stitch.</span>—To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the +first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then +draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch is +formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this +stitch, because if it is not done, you will <a name="corr95" id="corr95"></a>lose in each row a stitch. +On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the +work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is +indispensible.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Raised_Stitch" id="A_Raised_Stitch"></a>A Raised Stitch.</span>—Make this by passing the needle through, both meshes +of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space +or hole.</p> + +<p><a name="corr96" id="corr96"></a><span class="smcap"><a name="To_increase_or_decrease_a_Stitch" id="To_increase_or_decrease_a_Stitch"></a>To increase or decrease a Stitch.</span>—In the former case, make two stitches +in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or +miss one.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="True_Stitch" id="True_Stitch"></a>True Stitch.</span>—This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, +when working in different colors, so as to conceal <a name="corr97" id="corr97"></a>the half stitch. +This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the +more beautiful will the work appear.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[146]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="To_fasten_on_or_off" id="To_fasten_on_or_off"></a>To fasten on or off.</span>—The former is done by laying the two ends of the +material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter +process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, +which must be fastened at the back.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Dividing_Line" id="A_Dividing_Line"></a>A Dividing Line.</span>—The most general form is that of working two stitches +up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it +can be varied according to taste.</p> + +<p>What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, means +<a name="corr98" id="corr98"></a>making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which +new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Carry_on_a_Thread_in_Double_Crochet" id="To_Carry_on_a_Thread_in_Double_Crochet"></a>To Carry on a Thread in Double Crochet.</span>—It is a very common thing to +work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the +case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so +managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplish +this, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, that +are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and +the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the +stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and +the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, +through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the +finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull +through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make one +stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires +it.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Joining_the_Threads" id="Joining_the_Threads"></a>Joining the Threads.</span>—In order that threads may be united neatly and +properly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the thread +quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of +the left hand, by the end of the thread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[147]</a></span> you are about to commence +working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will +of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, +proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread +you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread +you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for +about six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as +usual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, of +making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the +required degree of fineness.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_Increase_a_Stitch_in_Crochet" id="To_Increase_a_Stitch_in_Crochet"></a>To Increase a Stitch in Crochet.</span>—The process by which this is done, is +as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the +hinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which would +otherwise occur.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="To_take_in_a_Stitch" id="To_take_in_a_Stitch"></a>To take in a Stitch.</span>—To do this, two stitches are taken on the needle +at the same time, and you work them off as one.</p> + +<p>We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in +crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the +directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend +their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful +employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply +her own mind to the various directions. “No one can become an expert +needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[148]</a></span>”</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XVII.</span><br /> + +CROCHET.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXAMPLES_IN_CROCHET" id="EXAMPLES_IN_CROCHET"></a>EXAMPLES IN CROCHET.</h3> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 126px;"> +<a href="images/illus-148-full.png"><img src="images/illus-148.png" width="126" height="68" alt="Crochet Edging, for Collars" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Crochet_Edging_for_Collars" id="Crochet_Edging_for_Collars"></a>Crochet Edging, for Collars, &c.</span>—Ascertain the length you will require, +and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel +hook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of +tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. +If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and +termination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the +second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of +the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to +be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is +worked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work two +chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by +casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on the +foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, +passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from +behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops; +and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, +to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will +still have three loops on the hook.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[149]</a></span> Again, throw on a stitch as before, +which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then +throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops +remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle; +and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, +and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, +but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it +into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the +two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being +inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from +behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the +hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the +first loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrown +in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will +now have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous +row, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in all +respects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in the +following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a +double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then +seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain +stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollop +or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 128px;"> +<a href="images/illus-149-full.png"><img src="images/illus-149.png" width="128" height="45" alt="Petticoat Crochet Edging" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Petticoat_Crochet_Edging" id="Petticoat_Crochet_Edging"></a>Petticoat Crochet Edging.</span>—Work this in the following manner. First row +like the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; and +finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, is +the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having +an ivory screw handle.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[150]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Crochet_Edging_Handkerchiefs" id="Crochet_Edging_Handkerchiefs"></a>Crochet Edging, Handkerchiefs.</span>—This is done <a name="corr99" id="corr99"></a>in three rows, worked as +the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. +The material is Persian thread, No. 12; and you work with a fine steel +crochet needle, with a screw handle.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Insertion_or_Crochet_Beading" id="Insertion_or_Crochet_Beading"></a>Insertion, or Crochet Beading.</span>—You work this, if narrow, as first and +second rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the +third row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or No. 12 cotton, and +looks neat and handsome.</p> + +<p>The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. It is +necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as it +is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, of +course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken, +to have them gauged. If a needle will go into the slit, opposite No. 4, +but not into No. 5, then it is a No. 4 needle.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Sofa_Pillow" id="Sofa_Pillow"></a>Sofa Pillow.</span>—Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochet +needle; work as follows. For the first stripe, commence with two rows of +the same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a color +that will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row must +be of a different color, or it may be white. The next five rows are to +correspond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe is +composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same +color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades +as the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same, but, +of course, the colors are different. A white row in the middle of each +stripe, is, in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetition +of the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the +second, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspond +<i>exactly</i> with the first.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[151]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="Turkish_Pattern" id="Turkish_Pattern"></a>Turkish Pattern, for a Table Cover.</span>—Use a steel needle, and six threads +fleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, say +claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, and +scarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, two +scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in two +blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in two +scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the +scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. +We have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to +assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. +She can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and the +more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original will +her work appear.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Plain_Crochet_Bag_in_Silk" id="A_Plain_Crochet_Bag_in_Silk"></a>A Plain Crochet Bag, in Silk.</span>—Begin at the top with a chain, of one +hundred and fifty stitches. The material to work with, may be any kind +of silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may be +deemed desirable. On this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, and +then a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. The +second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work one +plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the +plain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different +color. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the +pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two +colors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is to +contrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars should +also be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of the +same color; all the small stars should be alike. The stripes are to be +repeated successively, until the bag is completed.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[152]</a></span><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Greek_Cap" id="A_Greek_Cap"></a>A Greek Cap, in coarse Chenille.</span>—With a chain of six or eight stitches, +begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, in +rows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches, +in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches in open +crochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few +plain lines, in black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Crochet_Neck_Chain" id="A_Crochet_Neck_Chain"></a>A Crochet Neck Chain.</span>—Commence with fine plain stitches; then put the +needle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. By +twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitch +appears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, and +crocheted.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="A_Plain_Crochet_Purse" id="A_Plain_Crochet_Purse"></a>A Plain Crochet Purse.</span>—This purse is made with middle-sized netting +silk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be made of one hundred +and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to +crochet three rows plain in the same <a name="corr100" id="corr100"></a>color. Then, five rows, in a color +making a good contrast. Repeat these stripes as many times as are +requisite, and crochet up the sides. Draw up the ends, and trim the +purse.</p> + +<p>We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as without +engravings, they would not be understood. This kind of work is capable +of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but in +almost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to +be described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, to +afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that for +purses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into +requisition. Much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of +colors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[153]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XVIII" id="CHAPTER_XVIII"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XVIII.</span><br /> + +TATTING.</h2> + + +<h3 class="sectionhead"><a name="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_TATTING" id="EXPLANATION_OF_STITCHES_TATTING"></a>EXPLANATION OF STITCHES.</h3> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 320px;"> +<a href="images/illus-153-full.png"><img src="images/illus-153.png" width="320" height="94" alt="Tatting Open Stitch" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Tatting_Open_Stitch" id="Tatting_Open_Stitch"></a>Tatting Open Stitch.</span>—Take <a name="corr101" id="corr101"></a>your tatting needle, and, having threaded it +with the appropriate material make a knot at the end. In order to make +the loops, put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand, +and form also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers, +extending them for that purpose. These loops are made by carrying the +thread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, so +as to pass over the knot. In this position they must be held tightly +down by the pressure of the thumb. You will observe that the thumb and +fore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop, but you +are to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight direction +from the fore finger and thumb, between the second and third fingers: +the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, up +through the middle, between the thread<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[154]</a></span> which is on the needle, and the +thread round the fingers. You must be careful to have the thread (on the +needle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through. +From the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as +possible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make +the stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which +is next the needle. You are to withdraw the second finger, and allow the +loop round the fingers to form round the thread. The fingers are then to +be again inserted, and form the stitch with the second finger by drawing +it up to its proper place, close to the thumb. This will finish the +stitch. For the next, cast the thread over the back part of the hand, +instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch, and let the +needle be inserted down through the finger loop, between the first and +second fingers; then draw it up through between the two threads over the +back part of the fingers, and form the stitch with the second one, as in +the previous stitch. You work the third stitch the same as the first, +only longer, that it may form a long loop. Repeat the second stitch, +then the long loop; and thus proceed until you have seven loops: after +this, the thread is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop.</p> +</div> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 204px;"> +<a href="images/illus-154-full.png"><img src="images/illus-154.png" width="204" height="192" alt="Star Tatting" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Star_Tatting" id="Star_Tatting"></a>Star Tatting.</span>—The material for this kind of work is bobbin, such as is +generally used for children’s caps. You have only to work six scollops +and draw them up close, so as to form a star. When made with precision +and regularity, they present a neat appearance. Star tatting is well +adapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[155]</a></span></p> + +<div class="imagepara"> +<div class="figleft" style="width: 175px;"> +<a href="images/illus-155-full.png"><img src="images/illus-155.png" width="175" height="42" alt="" title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p><span class="smcap"><a name="Common_Tatting_Edging" id="Common_Tatting_Edging"></a>Common Tatting Edging.</span>—Make the loops, and work the first stitch as in +the first pattern; then work twenty stitches the same way to form the +scollop. When it is finished, you must draw up the thread tight, and +then commence another. If it has been properly done, the scollop will +draw freely.</p> +</div> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[156]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="CHAPTER_XIX" id="CHAPTER_XIX"></a><span class="chapno">CHAPTER XIX.</span><br /> + +CONCLUDING REMARKS.</h2> + + +<p><span class="smcap">In</span> bringing the Ladies’ Work-Table Book to a close, we cannot persuade +ourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or two to our fair +friends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all the useful or +ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable +them to acquire. We should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to be +absent from our thoughts: she who has no definite aim in what she does, +can never have any good ground of hope, that, in her progress through +life, she can attain to excellence.</p> + +<p>These remarks apply principally to that large class, who are dependent +upon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort and respectability, +in their respective stations. But, as those ladies, whose circumstances +render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matter +of indifference, a knowledge of them is, by no means, unnecessary. In +many ways indeed, a lady, blessed with affluence, may render an +acquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful.</p> + +<p>It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, whose +education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. In +those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[157]</a></span> is actuated by a +true Christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place of +a mother to her humble dependents; and, under a deep sense of her high +responsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitable +and kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the duties +of that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days be +called upon to fill. In this case, how useful will the kind and careful +mistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper method +of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family +who, however humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wise +and the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectable +appearance.</p> + +<p>Those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time to +the superintendence of our female charity schools, will also find such +knowledge extremely beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow the +example of the holy Dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving and +destitute poor, an acquaintance with <i>plain needlework</i> is +indispensible; and indeed, it will, in every walk of life, be found +useful to her who is, by the animating love of the Lord Jesus, disposed</p> + +<p class="poem"><span class="i5">“To seek the wretched out,</span><br /> +And court the offices of soft humanity.”</p> + +<p>Another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of the kindly +solicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed out. In cases +where the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected, it will +be generally found that their religious and moral training has been +equally uncared for. Let the Christian lady evince a real desire to +improve the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and she +will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the +reception of instructions of a <a name="corr102" id="corr102"></a>higher<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[158]</a></span> and still more important +character. Hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence +of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly Christian spirit. We once +had the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith of +Christ, while those in whose service she was, and two others, highly +respectable persons, answered for her at the font. This beautiful +meeting together of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the most +splendid parish churches in England, and left on our minds an impression +which will never be effaced.</p> + +<p>In the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votary +of the needle, such instructions as we hope will be found sufficiently +clear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of her +assiduity, taste, and judgment. We have sought to be concise, without +being obscure; and to give plain directions, without making our readers +mere imitators, or copyists. One fault which is to be found in all the +books on these subjects, which we have seen, we have carefully avoided; +that is, the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in the +fabrication of each example given. Nothing can be more absurd, and +mischievous than this. The young work-woman can only exercise her +judgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. The various +stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, in +most instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in the +choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: here +judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and +forms; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to rely +upon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beauty +or propriety. We see the effect of this, in the sameness, and monotonous +appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work: and we have endeavored to +do our best, to introduce a more cor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[159]</a></span>rect taste and principle into this +department of the elegant arts, in which females are engaged. We know +that much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen; and we wish +to see it expand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps over +our native hills.</p> + +<p>We have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which the +needle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so well calculated +to promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readily +admitted by all, that he who has made the most improvements, and +produced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument, +has conferred a real benefit upon his race.</p> + +<p>We have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition of +accomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. We wish to direct the +minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct, to +the immortal beauties of moral excellence. These works may be made +conducive, in a high degree, to the development of family affection, and +the promotion, to a vast extent, of the purposes of genuine charity, +benevolence, and friendship. But there is yet a higher kind of use, to +which we would apply them. We would have the young lady, who is becoming +expert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric +grows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill +to plan and execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind; of that +Mind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the +Omnipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency to what +would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. It is +Omnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived and executed all the +beautiful wonders of creation; and that Wisdom and Power were called +into activity by Omnipotent Love. We wish to impress this sublime truth +upon the mind of our young<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[160]</a></span> readers, because we wish them to place their +Heavenly Father before them—as their pattern and example—in all that +they take in hand; and to remember that, as He formed the universe by +Wisdom, from Love—so all their actions and elegant contrivances should +be the result of judgment, guided by affection—that they may thus +become like their Father, who is in Heaven.</p> + +<p>Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the +development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all +worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to +flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and +admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make +all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the +happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this +end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, +in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish +them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some +noble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the +well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the +elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, +by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a +leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such +they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and +placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important +duties. The young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or of music, +should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those pursuits, will +be accounted lost or improved, by the impartial Judge of all—just in +proportion as they have been made to serve the <a name="corr103" id="corr103"></a>purposes of selfish +gratification, or to minister to the development of an elevated moral +character—generous and warm affections—and<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[161]</a></span> the cultivation of those +virtues, which, as essentials of the Christian character, shall outlive +the ravages of time, and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of a +coming eternity.</p> + +<p>In all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, let her +place a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to render every +transaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher state +of being. Our various faculties and powers were not given us to be +wasted, but to be used to the honor of our Creator—the comfort and +welfare of those around us—and, as a consequence of our faithful +discharge of our several obligations, conducive, in an eminent degree, +to our happiness. No mistake can be more fatal, than an idea that, for +what we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. What we call +trifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the +most important acts of our lives. It is not by great events that our +characters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our duties +in that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly Father has +seen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, <a name="corr104" id="corr104"></a>soothe the sorrows, +increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should be +the highest aim of a laudable ambition—and every endeavor should be +most assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends. +It is, in fact, only when we thus employ our various talents and +capabilities, that they are really useful, in any other case, they are +only ministers to our personal pride, and selfish gratification, instead +of becoming links in that golden chain, by which the faithful +performance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of “a +crown of righteousness, that fadeth not away.”</p> + +<p>Let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exercises +her judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or mate<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[162]</a></span>rials, or in +the invention of new developments of creative genius, ever remember to +exercise those powers as a Christian—let her cultivate, in her inmost +soul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from on +high—and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice, +acceptable to her God, by doing all in the spirit, and under the +influence of that sacred charity—that boundless benevolence—which ever +rejoices, in making its various capabilities subservient to the good of +others, and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time, +an endurance and a continuity, that shall endure for ever.</p> + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[163]</a></span></p> + + +<h2 class="chapterhead"><a name="INDEX" id="INDEX"></a>INDEX.</h2> + + + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Algerine Work, <a href="#Algerine_Work">69</a></li> + <li>Angular Stitch, <a href="#Angular_Stitch">33</a></li> + <li>Applique, <a href="#Applique">84</a>, <a href="#Applique_application">89</a></li> + <li>Apron, Girl’s, <a href="#Girls_Apron">40</a></li> + <li>——, Morning, <a href="#A_Morning_Apron">40</a></li> + <li>——, Vandyke, <a href="#Vandyke_Apron">40</a></li> + <li>—— for a young person, <a href="#Apron_for_a_Young_Person">40</a></li> + <li>Aprons, <a href="#Aprons">38</a></li> + <li>——, Dress, <a href="#Dress_Aprons">39</a></li> + <li>Armorial Bearings, <a href="#Armorial_Bearings">83</a>, <a href="#Armorial_Bearings_application">89</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Baby’s Cap, <a href="#A_Babys_Cap">111</a></li> + <li>—— Hood, <a href="#Babys_Hood">112</a></li> + <li>—— Shoe, <a href="#Babys_Shoe">112</a></li> + <li>Barege Knitting for Shawls, <a href="#Barege_Knitting_for_Shawls">115</a></li> + <li>Basket Stitch, <a href="#Basket_Stitch">66</a>, <a href="#Basket_Stitch_application">88</a></li> + <li>Bathing Gown, <a href="#Bathing_Gown">40</a></li> + <li>Bead Stitch, <a href="#Bead_Stitch">127</a>, <a href="#Bead_Stitch_crochet">145</a></li> + <li>Bead Work, <a href="#Bead_Work">84</a></li> + <li>Beaufort Star, <a href="#The_Beaufort_Star">71</a></li> + <li>Beautiful Fringe and Border, <a href="#A_Beautiful_Fringe_and_Border">113</a></li> + <li><a name="corr105" id="corr105"></a>Bed-room Linen, <a href="#Bed-room_Linen">54</a></li> + <li>Bee’s Stitch, <a href="#Bees_Stitch">101</a></li> + <li>Berlin Wire Stitch, <a href="#Berlin_Wire_Stitch">101</a></li> + <li>Biassing, <a href="#Biassing">35</a></li> + <li>Binding, <a href="#Binding">59</a></li> + <li>Biroche, A, <a href="#A_Biroche">111</a></li> + <li>Blankets, <a href="#Blankets">54</a></li> + <li>Border for a Shawl, <a href="#Border_for_the_Shawl">124</a></li> + <li>Braces, <a href="#Braces">85</a></li> + <li>Braiding, <a href="#Braiding">59</a></li> + <li>Braid Work, <a href="#Braid_Work">84</a>, <a href="#Braid_Work_application">89</a></li> + <li>Brief Description of Wools, <a href="#BRIEF_DESCRIPTION_OF_WOOLS">22</a></li> + <li>Bustles, <a href="#Bustles">41</a></li> + <li>Button-hole Stitch, <a href="#Button-hole_Stitch">31</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Cap Border Scollop, <a href="#Cap_Border_Scollop">140</a></li> + <li>Caps, <a href="#Caps">41</a></li> + <li>Cashmere Shawl, <a href="#Cashmere_Shawl">49</a></li> + <li>Cast off, To, <a href="#To_cast_off">100</a></li> + <li>Cast on, To, <a href="#To_Cast_on_the_Loops_or_Stitches">98</a></li> + <li>Cast over, To, <a href="#To_cast_over">99</a></li> + <li>Chain Stitch, <a href="#Chain_Stitch">32</a>, <a href="#Chain_Stitch_Knitting">102</a></li> + <li><a name="corr106" id="corr106"></a>—— —— on Gathers, <a href="#Chain_Stitch_on_Gathers">34</a></li> + <li>Checked Patterns, <a href="#Checked_Patterns">115</a></li> + <li>Chenille Embroidery, <a href="#Chenille_Embroidery">80</a></li> + <li>Chess Pattern, <a href="#Chess_Pattern">71</a></li> + <li>Child’s Collar, <a href="#Childs_Collar">41</a></li> + <li>Cloaks, <a href="#Cloaks">42</a></li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[164]</a></span>Close Stitch for Waistcoats, <a href="#Close_Stitch_for_a_Waistcoat">115</a></li> + <li>Comforter, A, <a href="#A_Comforter">113</a></li> + <li>Comforter, Another, <a href="#Another_Comforter">113</a></li> + <li>Common Plait, <a href="#Common_Plait">101</a></li> + <li>Common Tatting <a name="corr107" id="corr107"></a>Edging, <a href="#Common_Tatting_Edging">155</a></li> + <li>Coral Pattern, <a href="#Coral_Pattern">35</a></li> + <li>Corner for a Shawl, <a href="#Corner_for_a_Shawl">122</a></li> + <li>Corners, To fill up, <a href="#To_Fill_up_Corners">69</a></li> + <li>Cravats, <a href="#Cravats">42</a></li> + <li>Crochet Edging, for Collars, <a href="#Crochet_Edging_for_Collars">148</a></li> + <li>—— —— for Hdkfs., <a href="#Crochet_Edging_Handkerchiefs">150</a></li> + <li>—— Neck Chain, <a href="#A_Crochet_Neck_Chain">152</a></li> + <li>Cross Stitch, <a href="#Cross_Stitch">65</a></li> + <li>Crow’s-foot Stitch, <a href="#Crows-foot_Stitch">102</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Diagram, <a href="#DIAGRAM">61</a></li> + <li>Diamond Netting, <a href="#Diamond_Netting">128</a></li> + <li>—— —— 5 stitches, <a href="#Diamond_Netting_of_Five_Stitches">128</a></li> + <li>Dice Pattern, <a href="#Dice_Pattern">72</a></li> + <li>—— —— Purse, <a href="#Dice_Pattern_Purse">135</a></li> + <li>Dinner Napkins, <a href="#Dinner_Napkins">56</a></li> + <li>Dividing Line, A, <a href="#A_Dividing_Line">146</a></li> + <li>Dotted Knitting, Baby’s shoe, <a href="#Dotted_Knitting">117</a></li> + <li>—— Netting, <a href="#Dotted_Netting">129</a></li> + <li>Double Cross Stitch, <a href="#Double_Cross_Stitch">65</a></li> + <li>—— Diamond, long stitch, <a href="#Double_Diamond_in_Long_Stitch">72</a></li> + <li>—— Herring-boning, <a href="#Double_Herring-boning">34</a></li> + <li>—— Knitting, <a href="#Double_Knitting">103</a></li> + <li>—— Nightcap, <a href="#Double_Nightcap">117</a></li> + <li>—— Open Crochet, <a href="#Double_Open_Crochet">144</a></li> + <li>—— Plait Stitch, <a href="#Double_Plait_Stitch">69</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch Crochet, <a href="#Double_Stitch_Crochet">144</a></li> + <li>—— Straight Cross Stitch, <a href="#Double_Straight_Cross_Stitch">65</a></li> + <li>Dressing Table Covers, <a href="#Dressing_Table_Covers">55</a></li> + <li>Dress Shawl, <a href="#A_Dress_Shawl">49</a></li> + <li>Dutch Common Knitting, <a href="#Dutch_Common_Knitting">104</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Edge Stitch, <a href="#Edge_Stitch">145</a></li> + <li>Elastic Rib, <a href="#Elastic_Rib">105</a></li> + <li>Embroidery, <a href="#Embroidery">88</a></li> + <li>—— in Wool, <a href="#Embroidery_in_Wool">80</a></li> + <li>—— with Silk, <a href="#Embroidery_with_Silk">79</a></li> + <li>Embossed Diamond, <a href="#Embossed_Diamond">104</a></li> + <li>—— Hexagon Stitch, <a href="#Embossed_Hexagon_Stitch">104</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Fancy Bobbin Edging, <a href="#Fancy_Bobbin_Edging">34</a></li> + <li>—— Button-hole Stitch, <a href="#Fancy_Button-hole_Stitch">31</a></li> + <li>—— Chain Stitch, <a href="#Fancy_Chain_Stitch">31</a></li> + <li>—— Herring-boning, <a href="#Fancy_Herring-boning">33</a></li> + <li><a name="corr108" id="corr108"></a>Fantail Stitch, <a href="#Fantail_Stitch">105</a></li> + <li>Fasten on, To, <a href="#To_fasten_on">100</a></li> + <li>—— off, To, <a href="#To_fasten_on_or_off">146</a></li> + <li>Feather Stitch, <a href="#Feather_Stitch">67</a></li> + <li>French Ground Net, <a href="#French_Ground_Net">130</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch, <a href="#French_Stitch">105</a></li> + <li>Frills, <a href="#Frills">42</a></li> + <li>Frame, to Dress for Cloth Work, <a href="#To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Cloth_Work">82</a></li> + <li>——, to Dress for Cross Stitch, <a href="#To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Cross_Stitch">82</a></li> + <li>——, to Dress for Tent Stitch, <a href="#To_Dress_a_Frame_for_Tent_Stitch">83</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[165]</a></span>Gathering, Double, or Puffing, <a href="#Double_Gathering">30</a></li> + <li>——, <a href="#Gathering">30</a></li> + <li>Gem, or Set Patterns, <a href="#Gem_or_Set_Patterns">85</a></li> + <li>Gentlemen’s Belts, <a href="#Gentlemens_Belts">43</a></li> + <li>—— Braces, <a href="#Gentlemens_Waistcoats_and_Braces">89</a></li> + <li>—— Collars, <a href="#Gentlemens_Collars">43</a></li> + <li>—— Fronts, <a href="#Gentlemens_Fronts">43</a></li> + <li>—— Travelling <a name="corr109" id="corr109"></a>Cap, <a href="#Gentlemans_Travelling_Cap">118</a></li> + <li>—— Waistcoats, <a href="#Gentlemens_Waistcoats">85</a>, <a href="#Gentlemens_Waistcoats_and_Braces">89</a></li> + <li>German Knitting, <a href="#German_Knitting">105</a></li> + <li>—— Pattern, <a href="#German_Pattern">72</a>, <a href="#German_Pattern_application">88</a></li> + <li>Gobelin, <a href="#Gobelin">85</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch, <a href="#Gobelin_Stitch">66</a></li> + <li>Grecian Netting, <a href="#Grecian_Netting">130</a></li> + <li>Greek Cap, coarse Chenille, <a href="#A_Greek_Cap">152</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Habit Shirt, <a href="#Habit_Shirt">119</a></li> + <li>Half Handkerchief, <a href="#Half_Handkerchief">118</a></li> + <li>Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts, <a href="#Harlequin_Quilt">119</a></li> + <li>Heart Pattern, <a href="#Heart_Pattern">73</a></li> + <li>Hemming, <a href="#Hemmings">29</a></li> + <li>——, German, <a href="#German_Hemming">29</a></li> + <li>Herring-bone Bag Stitch, <a href="#Herring-bone_Bag_Stitch">106</a></li> + <li>—— Purse, <a href="#Herring-bone_Purse">118</a></li> + <li>Herring-boning, <a href="#Herring-boning">33</a></li> + <li>Honeycombing, <a href="#Honey_Combing">36</a></li> + <li>Honeycomb Mittens, <a href="#Honeycomb_Mittens">136</a></li> + <li>—— Netting, <a href="#Honeycomb_Netting">131</a></li> + <li>—— ——, with two Meshes, <a href="#Honeycomb_Netting_with_two_Meshes">131</a></li> + <li>——, Another kind, <a href="#Another_kind_of_Honeycomb_Netting">130</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch, <a href="#Honeycomb_Stitch">106</a></li> + <li>Horse-shoe Stitch, <a href="#Horse-shoe_Stitch">34</a></li> + <li>Housemaid and Kitchen Linen, <a href="#Housemaid_and_Kitchen_Linen">57</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Imitation <a name="corr110" id="corr110"></a>Net-work Stitch, <a href="#Imitation_Net-work_Stitch">106</a></li> + <li>Indian Scarf, <a href="#An_Indian_Scarf">49</a></li> + <li>Insertion, Crochet Beading, <a href="#Insertion_or_Crochet_Beading">150</a></li> + <li>Instructions in Grounding, <a href="#Instructions_in_Grounding">91</a></li> + <li>Irish Diamond, <a href="#Irish_Diamond">73</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch, <a href="#Irish_Stitch">66</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Jelly Bag, <a href="#Jelly_Bag">58</a></li> + <li>Joining the Threads, <a href="#Joining_the_Threads">146</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Knee Caps, <a href="#Knee_Caps">116</a></li> + <li>Knit Herring-bone Stitch, <a href="#Knit_Herring-bone_Stitch">107</a></li> + <li>Knitted Footing, <a href="#Knitting_Footing">117</a></li> + <li>—— Fringe, <a href="#Knitted_Fringe">117</a></li> + <li>—— Muff, <a href="#A_Knitted_Muff">114</a></li> + <li>Knitting Stitch, <a href="#Knitting_Stitch">99</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Lace, <a href="#Lace">73</a>, <a href="#Lace_fancy">88</a></li> + <li>—— Wave Stitch, <a href="#Lace_Wave_Stitch">107</a></li> + <li>Ladies’ Drawers, <a href="#Ladies_Drawers">43</a></li> + <li>—— Flannel Waistcoats, <a href="#Ladies_Flannel_Waistcoat">44</a></li> + <li>—— Night Jackets, <a href="#Ladies_Night_Jackets">44</a></li> + <li>—— Purses, <a href="#A_Ladys_Purse">139</a></li> + <li>—— Walking Shawls, <a href="#A_Ladys_Walking_Shawl">50</a></li> + <li>Landscapes, <a href="#Landscapes">85</a></li> + <li>Leaf Netting, <a href="#Leaf_Netting">132</a></li> + <li>Long Purse, in Points, <a href="#A_Long_Purse_in_Points">141</a></li> + <li>Loop Stitch, <a href="#A_Loop_Stitch">100</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Making Buttons, <a href="#Making_Buttons">60</a></li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[166]</a></span>Maltese Netting in Spots, <a href="#Maltese_Netting_in_Spots">133</a></li> + <li>Mantuamaker’s Hem, <a href="#Mantuamakers_Hem">29</a></li> + <li>Materials for Plain Needlework, <a href="#MATERIALS_FOR_PLAIN_NEEDLEWORK">17</a></li> + <li>—— for Embroidery, <a href="#MATERIALS_FOR_EMBROIDERY">21</a></li> + <li>—— for Fancy Needlework, <a href="#MATERIALS_FOR_FANCY_NEEDLEWORK">20</a></li> + <li>—— for Knitting, Netting and Crochet, <a href="#MATERIALS_FOR_KNITTING_NETTING_AND_CROCHET">21</a></li> + <li>Marking, <a href="#Marking">59</a></li> + <li>Medallion Pattern, <a href="#Medallion_Pattern">90</a></li> + <li>Mosaic Work, <a href="#Mosaic_Work">86</a>, <a href="#Mosaic_Work_and_Perforated_Card">89</a></li> + <li>Moss Stitch, <a href="#Moss_Stitch">107</a></li> + <li>Mourning Shawls, <a href="#Mourning_Shawls">50</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Narrowing, <a href="#Narrowing">99</a></li> + <li>Necessary Implements in Crochet, <a href="#NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_CROCHET">26</a></li> + <li>Necessary Implements in Fancy Needlework, <a href="#NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_FANCY_NEEDLEWORK">25</a></li> + <li>Necessary Implements in Knitting, <a href="#NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_KNITTING">25</a></li> + <li>Necessary Implements in Netting, <a href="#NECESSARY_IMPLEMENTS_FOR_NETTING">25</a></li> + <li>Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs, <a href="#Neck_and_Pocket_Handkerchiefs">45</a></li> + <li>Net Cravat, <a href="#Net_Cravat">141</a></li> + <li>—— Scarf, <a href="#A_Net_Scarf">141</a></li> + <li>—— with Points, <a href="#Net_with_Points">132</a></li> + <li>Netted Bag, with Ring, <a href="#A_Netted_Bag_with_Ring">135</a></li> + <li>—— Cuffs, with Silk and Wool, <a href="#Netted_Cuff_with_Silk_and_Wool">137</a></li> + <li>—— Cuffs, <a href="#Netted_Cuffs">137</a></li> + <li>—— Fringe, <a href="#Netted_Fringe">138</a></li> + <li>—— Opera Cap, <a href="#Netted_Opera_Cap">138</a></li> + <li>—— Scollop Edging, <a href="#Netted_Scollop_Edging">139</a></li> + <li>Night Gowns, <a href="#Night_Gowns">45</a></li> + <li>—— Stockings, <a href="#A_Night_Stocking">122</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Open Cross Stitch, <a href="#Open_Cross_Stitch">108</a></li> + <li>—— Crochet, <a href="#Open_Crochet">143</a></li> + <li>—— Hem, <a href="#Open_Hem">107</a></li> + <li>—— Work Stockings, <a href="#Open-work_Stockings">121</a></li> + <li>Ornamental Ladder Stitch, <a href="#Ornamental_Ladder_Stitch">108</a></li> + <li>Over Shoe, <a href="#An_Over-shoe">114</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Pantry Linen, <a href="#Pantry_Linen">56</a></li> + <li>Pattern for a Light Scarf, <a href="#Pattern_for_a_Light_Scarf">120</a></li> + <li>Patterns on Canvas, <a href="#Patterns_on_Canvas">86</a></li> + <li>Pearl Stitch, <a href="#Pearl_Stitch">99</a></li> + <li>Perforated Card, <a href="#Perforated_Card">86</a>, <a href="#Mosaic_Work_and_Perforated_Card">89</a></li> + <li>Petticoat Crochet Edging, <a href="#Petticoat_Crochet_Edging">149</a></li> + <li>Petticoats, <a href="#Petticoats">46</a></li> + <li>——, Flannel, <a href="#Petticoats_Flannel">46</a></li> + <li>Pillow Covers, <a href="#Pillow_Covers">54</a></li> + <li>Pinafore, <a href="#Pinafore">47</a></li> + <li>Pincushion Covers, <a href="#Pincushion_Covers">55</a></li> + <li>Pine Apple Purse, <a href="#Pine_Apple_Purse">115</a></li> + <li>—— —— Stitch, <a href="#Pine_Apple_Stitch">108</a></li> + <li>Piping, <a href="#Piping">60</a></li> + <li>Plain Crochet, <a href="#Plain_Crochet">143</a></li> + <li>—— Crochet Bag, in Silk, <a href="#A_Plain_Crochet_Bag_in_Silk">151</a></li> + <li>—— —— Purse, <a href="#A_Plain_Crochet_Purse">152</a></li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[167]</a></span>—— Double Crochet, <a href="#Plain_Double_Crochet">143</a></li> + <li>—— Knitted Muffatees, <a href="#Plain_Knitted_Muffatees">120</a></li> + <li>—— —— Gentleman’s Purse, <a href="#Plain_Netted_Gentlemans_Purse">139</a></li> + <li>—— Netted Mittens, <a href="#Plain_Netted_Mittens">139</a></li> + <li>—— Netting, <a href="#Plain_Netting">126</a></li> + <li>—— Open Netting, <a href="#Plain_Open_Netting">133</a></li> + <li>—— —— Stitch, <a href="#Plain_Open_Stitch">109</a></li> + <li>—— —— Elastic Crochet, <a href="#Plain_Stitch_Elastic_Crochet">144</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch Open Crochet, <a href="#Plain_Stitch_Open_Crochet">143</a></li> + <li>—— Scarf, <a href="#Plain_Scarf">48</a></li> + <li>—— Scollop, <a href="#A_Plain_Scollop">140</a></li> + <li>Plaiting, <a href="#Plaiting">60</a></li> + <li>Pockets, <a href="#Pockets">48</a></li> + <li>Point Stitch, <a href="#Point_Stitch">68</a>, <a href="#Point_Stitch_application">88</a></li> + <li>Porcupine Stitch, <a href="#Porcupine_Stitch">109</a></li> + <li>Princess Royal, <a href="#Princess_Royal">74</a>, <a href="#Princess_Royal_application">88</a></li> + <li>Pudding Cloth, <a href="#Pudding_Cloth">58</a></li> + <li>Purse, with China Silk, <a href="#A_Purse_with_China_Silk">135</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Queen Stitch, <a href="#Queen_Stitch">68</a></li> + <li>Queen’s Vandyke, <a href="#Queens_Vandyke">68</a></li> + <li>Quilts, <a href="#Quilts">54</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Raised Embroidery, <a href="#Raised_Embroidery">80</a></li> + <li>—— Stitch, A, <a href="#A_Raised_Stitch">145</a></li> + <li>—— Work, <a href="#Raised_Work">93</a></li> + <li>Raising, <a href="#Raising">99</a></li> + <li>Rib, To, <a href="#To_Rib">99</a></li> + <li>Ribbon Scarf, <a href="#A_Ribbon_Scarf">48</a></li> + <li>Roman Pattern, <a href="#Roman_Pattern">74</a></li> + <li>Round Netting, <a href="#Round_Netting">133</a></li> + <li>Rough Cast Stitch, <a href="#Rough-cast_Stitch">110</a></li> + <li>Row, A, <a href="#A_Row">99</a></li> + <li>Rug Bordering, <a href="#Rug_Bordering">87</a>, <a href="#Rug_Borderings">88</a></li> + <li>Running, <a href="#Running">29</a></li> + <li>Russian Pattern, <a href="#Russian_Pattern">74</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Scale of Canvases, <a href="#SCALE_OF_CANVASES">21</a></li> + <li>Seam, To, <a href="#To_Seam">99</a></li> + <li>Seam Purse, with Beads, <a href="#A_Seam_Purse_with_Beads">135</a></li> + <li>Serpentine Stitch, <a href="#Serpentine_Stitch">35</a></li> + <li>Sewing and Felling, <a href="#Sewing_and_Felling">29</a></li> + <li>Shaded Silk Netting, <a href="#Shaded_Silk_Netting">129</a></li> + <li>Sheets, <a href="#Sheets">54</a></li> + <li>Shifts, <a href="#Shifts">50</a></li> + <li>Shirts, <a href="#Shirts">51</a></li> + <li>Single Plait Stitch, <a href="#Single_Plait_Stitch">68</a></li> + <li>Slip Stitch, <a href="#A_Slip_Stitch">100</a></li> + <li>Socks, <a href="#Socks">122</a></li> + <li>Sofa Pillow, <a href="#Sofa_Pillow">150</a></li> + <li>Star Pattern, <a href="#Star_Patterns">90</a></li> + <li>—— Tatting, <a href="#Star_Tatting">154</a></li> + <li>—— with Eight Points, <a href="#Star_with_Eight_Points">116</a></li> + <li>Stitches in Crochet, <a href="#STITCHES_IN_CROCHET">142</a></li> + <li>Stitching, <a href="#Stitching">30</a></li> + <li>Stitch, To take in a, <a href="#To_take_in_a_Stitch">147</a></li> + <li>——, To increase or decrease a, <a href="#To_increase_or_decrease_a_Stitch">145</a></li> + <li>——, To incr. in Crochet, <a href="#To_Increase_a_Stitch_in_Crochet">147</a></li> + <li>Stitches, To cast on the Loops or, <a href="#To_Cast_on_the_Loops_or_Stitches">98</a></li> + <li>Stockings, <a href="#Stockings">120</a></li> + <li><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[168]</a></span>Straight Cross Stitch, <a href="#Straight_Cross_Stitch">65</a></li> + <li>Strong Knitted Purse, <a href="#A_Strong_Knitted_Purse">114</a></li> + <li>Suggestions as to Patterns, <a href="#SUGGESTIONS_AS_TO_PATTERNS">77</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Table Cloths, <a href="#Table_Cloths">56</a></li> + <li>—— Linen, <a href="#Table_Linen">56</a></li> + <li>Tatting, Open Stitch, <a href="#Tatting_Open_Stitch">153</a></li> + <li>Tent Stitch, <a href="#Tent_Stitch">64</a></li> + <li>Thread, To bring forward a, <a href="#To_bring_the_thread_forward">100</a></li> + <li>——, To carry on a, in Double Crochet, <a href="#To_Carry_on_a_Thread_in_Double_Crochet">146</a></li> + <li>Towels, <a href="#Towels">55</a></li> + <li>Travelling Shawl, <a href="#A_Travelling_Shawl">50</a></li> + <li>Treble Open Crochet, <a href="#Treble_Open_Crochet">144</a></li> + <li>True Stitch, <a href="#True_Stitch">145</a></li> + <li>Tucks, <a href="#Tucks">60</a></li> + <li>Turkish Pattern for a Table Cover, <a href="#Turkish_Pattern">151</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Veils, <a href="#Veils">52</a></li> + <li>Velvet Stitch, <a href="#Velvet_Stitch">69</a></li> + <li>Victoria Pattern, <a href="#Victoria_Pattern">75</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Wave Pattern, <a href="#Wave_Pattern">75</a></li> + <li>—— Knitting, <a href="#Wave_Knitting">110</a></li> + <li>Welts, <a href="#Welts">100</a></li> + <li>Whipping, <a href="#Whipping">31</a></li> + <li>Windsor Pattern, <a href="#Windsor_Pattern">76</a></li> + <li>Wire Work, <a href="#Wire_Work">87</a>, <a href="#Wire_Work_application">89</a></li> + <li>Working Berlin Pattern, <a href="#Working_Berlin_Patterns">93</a></li> + <li>—— Figures, <a href="#Working_Figures">89</a>, <a href="#Working_Berlin_Patterns">92</a></li> +</ul> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>Zephyr, A, <a href="#Zephyr">114</a></li> +</ul> + + +<p class="titlepage" style="margin-top: 2em;">THE END.</p> + + + + +<hr class="chapbreak" /> + +<div class="tn"> +<p class="titlepage"><a name="trans_note" id="trans_note"></a><b>Transcriber’s Note</b></p> + + +<p class="noindent">The following typographical errors were corrected:</p> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="margin-left: 0;" summary="Typographical errors"> +<tr> + <td style="width: 10%;">Page</td> + <td style="width: 40%;">Error</td> + <td style="width: 40%;">Correction</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr1">iv</a></td> + <td>human felicity</td> + <td>human felicity.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr2">v</a></td> + <td>fair one</td> + <td>fair one.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr3">v</a></td> + <td>then, how, to fabricate</td> + <td>then, how to fabricate</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr4">vi</a></td> + <td>form and utilty</td> + <td>form and utility</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr5">ix</a></td> + <td>netting of a purse,</td> + <td>netting of a purse.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr6">18</a></td> + <td>very difficult t</td> + <td>very difficult to</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr7">19</a></td> + <td>both sides, This</td> + <td>both sides. This</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr8">20</a></td> + <td>MATERIALS FOE</td> + <td>MATERIALS FOR</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr9">21</a></td> + <td>Knitting Netting,</td> + <td>Knitting, Netting,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr10">22</a></td> + <td>than others</td> + <td>than others.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr11">22</a></td> + <td>Wool.—This</td> + <td><span class="smcap">Wool.</span>—This</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr12">22</a></td> + <td>yarn, for mitts,</td> + <td>yarn, for mitts.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr13">24</a></td> + <td>her to devise</td> + <td>her to devise.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr14">25</a></td> + <td>Tissue Paper</td> + <td>Tissue Paper.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr15">27</a></td> + <td>extacy;”</td> + <td>extacy;</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr16">27</a></td> + <td>native sky.</td> + <td>native sky.”</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr17">28</a></td> + <td>principal stiches</td> + <td>principal stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr18">29</a></td> + <td>thread with out</td> + <td>thread without</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr19">30</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Gathering</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Gathering.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr20">30</a></td> + <td>are gathered, Then</td> + <td>are gathered. Then</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr21">33</a></td> + <td>appropriate situations</td> + <td>appropriate situations.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr22">34</a></td> + <td>intricate to describle</td> + <td>intricate to describe</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr23">36</a></td> + <td>must take grest</td> + <td>must take great</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr24">38</a></td> + <td>visiter</td> + <td>visitor</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr25">41</a></td> + <td>colico, ore</td> + <td>calico, are</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr26">44</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">adies’ Night Jackets.</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Ladies’ Night Jackets.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr27">48</a></td> + <td>wrong, side</td> + <td>wrong side</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr28">48</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Plain Scarf</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Plain Scarf.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr29">51</a></td> + <td>Another meth d</td> + <td>Another method</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr30">55</a></td> + <td>into the other,</td> + <td>into the other.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr31">60</a></td> + <td>in the middle</td> + <td>in the middle.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr32">60</a></td> + <td>like a star</td> + <td>like a star.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr33">64</a></td> + <td>painting in oil,</td> + <td>painting in oil.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr34">65</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Cross Stitch</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Cross Stitch.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr35">65</a></td> + <td>This is a stich</td> + <td>This is a stitch</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr36">66</a></td> + <td>arrangment</td> + <td>arrangement</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr37">67</a></td> + <td>same color</td> + <td>same color.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr38">70</a></td> + <td>unavailable repentance</td> + <td>unavailable repentance.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr39">71</a></td> + <td>increas-increasing</td> + <td>increasing</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr40">72</a></td> + <td>inprovement</td> + <td>improvement</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr41">76</a></td> + <td>is complete</td> + <td>is complete.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr42">76</a></td> + <td>ane xtremly</td> + <td>an extremely</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr43">fn 79-*</a></td> + <td>The footnote marker was missing on the footnote</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr44">80</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Chenille Embroidery</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Chenille Embroidery.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr45">81</a></td> + <td>perseverence</td> + <td>perseverance</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr46">83</a></td> + <td>restored to</td> + <td>resorted to</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr47">84</a></td> + <td>braided with ther</td> + <td>braided with their</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr48">85</a></td> + <td>lavendar</td> + <td>lavender</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr49">88</a></td> + <td>CHAPTER X</td> + <td>CHAPTER X.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr50">88</a></td> + <td>considerable size</td> + <td>considerable size.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr51">89</a></td> + <td>assidously</td> + <td>assiduously</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr52">93</a></td> + <td>the, first</td> + <td>the first</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr53">96</a></td> + <td>forgotton</td> + <td>forgotten</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr54">96</a></td> + <td>incovenience</td> + <td>inconvenience</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr55">98</a></td> + <td>Lee., M. A,</td> + <td>Lee, M. A.,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr56">98</a></td> + <td>first intoduction</td> + <td>first introduction</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr57">98</a></td> + <td>the means</td> + <td>the means,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr58">99</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Pearl Stitch</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Pearl Stitch.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr59">100</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Note</span>, in cas tingon</td> + <td><span class="smcap">Note</span>, in casting on</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr60">102</a></td> + <td>other three stiches</td> + <td>other three stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr61">102</a></td> + <td>that tbe pins</td> + <td>that the pins</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr62">103</a></td> + <td>previous methods</td> + <td>previous methods.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr63">104</a></td> + <td>stitches, you choose</td> + <td>stitches you choose</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr64">104</a></td> + <td>taking careto</td> + <td>taking care to</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr65">106</a></td> + <td>loops, and kniting</td> + <td>loops, and knitting</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr66">107</a></td> + <td>knit three siitches</td> + <td>knit three stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr67">111</a></td> + <td>preceeding</td> + <td>preceding</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr68">112</a></td> + <td>five rows o</td> + <td>five rows of</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr69">113</a></td> + <td>ancle</td> + <td>ankle</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr70">113</a></td> + <td>each stitch; The</td> + <td>each stitch. The</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr71">114</a></td> + <td>fringe and borber</td> + <td>fringe and border</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr72">115</a></td> + <td>knitting three stiches</td> + <td>knitting three stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr73">118</a></td> + <td>when it ouccurs</td> + <td>when it occurs</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr74">120</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Pattern for a Light Scarf</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">Pattern for a Light Scarf.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr75">120</a></td> + <td>generaly</td> + <td>generally</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr76">122</a></td> + <td>every other stich</td> + <td>every other stitch</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr77">123</a></td> + <td>Eleventh row plain</td> + <td>Eleventh row plain.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr78">123</a></td> + <td>make a siitch</td> + <td>make a stitch</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr79">123</a></td> + <td>knit two togteher</td> + <td>knit two together</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr80">124</a></td> + <td>twenty-seeond</td> + <td>twenty-second</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr81">127</a></td> + <td>bottom of the preceeding</td> + <td>bottom of the preceding</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr82">128</a></td> + <td>For the fouth</td> + <td>For the fourth</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr83">129</a></td> + <td>principal beauty</td> + <td>principal beauty.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr84">131</a></td> + <td>the end Work</td> + <td>the end. Work</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr85">134</a></td> + <td colspan="2">You every is missing a word, probably work. This change was not made in the text</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr86">134</a></td> + <td>succeding</td> + <td>succeeding</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr87">135</a></td> + <td>ninety-eight stiiches</td> + <td>ninety-eight stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr88">136</a></td> + <td>net seven stiches</td> + <td>net seven stitches</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr89">137</a></td> + <td>double silk</td> + <td>double silk.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr90">137</a></td> + <td>to the whole,</td> + <td>to the whole.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr91">140</a></td> + <td>loop Net</td> + <td>loop. Net</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr92">143</a></td> + <td>can be be varied</td> + <td>can be varied</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr93">144</a></td> + <td>each square,</td> + <td>each square.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr94">145</a></td> + <td>back or the</td> + <td>back of the</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr95">145</a></td> + <td>loose in each</td> + <td>lose in each</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr96">145</a></td> + <td><span class="smcap">To increase or decrease a Stitch.</span></td> + <td><span class="smcap">To Increase or Decrease a Stitch.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr97">145</a></td> + <td>conceal the the half</td> + <td>conceal the half</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr98">146</a></td> + <td>means meaking</td> + <td>means making</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr99">150</a></td> + <td>This is done it</td> + <td>This is done in</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr100">152</a></td> + <td>same color</td> + <td>same color.</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr101">153</a></td> + <td>Take you tatting</td> + <td>Take your tatting</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr102">157</a></td> + <td>of a highe</td> + <td>of a higher</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr103">160</a></td> + <td>puposes of selfish</td> + <td>purposes of selfish</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr104">161</a></td> + <td>sooth</td> + <td>soothe</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr105">163</a></td> + <td>Bedroom</td> + <td>Bed-room</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr106">163</a></td> + <td>—— on Gathers</td> + <td>—— —— on Gathers</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr107">164</a></td> + <td>Tatting Edging</td> + <td>Tatting Edging,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr108">164</a></td> + <td>Fan-tail</td> + <td>Fantail</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr109">165</a></td> + <td>Travelling Cap</td> + <td>Travelling Cap,</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><a href="#corr110">165</a></td> + <td>Imitation Network</td> + <td>Imitation Net-work</td> +</tr> +</table> + + +<p class="noindent">The Index has been standardized to have a , between the index entry +and the page number.</p> + +<p class="noindent">The following words had inconsistent spelling and +hyphenation.</p> + +<ul class="ix"> + <li>cross-way / crossway</li> + <li>honey-comb / honeycomb</li> + <li>indispensible / indispensable</li> + <li>needle-woman / needlewoman</li> + <li>needle-work / needlework</li> + <li>net-work / network</li> + <li>pin-cushion / pincushion</li> + <li>vitalized / vitalised</li> +</ul> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Work-Table Book, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK *** + +***** This file should be named 29382-h.htm or 29382-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/3/8/29382/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + + +</pre> + +</body> +</html> + diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-026-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-026-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..04f05f7 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-026-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-026.png b/29382-h/images/illus-026.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..01aec73 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-026.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-031-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-031-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..faaef06 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-031-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-031.png b/29382-h/images/illus-031.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8431421 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-031.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-032-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-032-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fbe3c86 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-032-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-032-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-032-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..77dd627 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-032-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-032-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-032-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..05cbfd0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-032-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-032-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-032-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3213a93 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-032-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-032-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-032-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..907e569 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-032-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-032-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-032-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b026a4b --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-032-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-033-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-033-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..054a4a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-033-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-033-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-033-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7fee84f --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-033-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-033-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-033-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8fd74e0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-033-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-033-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-033-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..abf9ec0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-033-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-033-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-033-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..61d9b86 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-033-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-033-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-033-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..853ca9e --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-033-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-034-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-034-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1d9b057 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-034-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-034-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-034-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..91bf850 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-034-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-034-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-034-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a97cd00 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-034-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-034-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-034-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..42106c9 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-034-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-034-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-034-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..98865db --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-034-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-034-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-034-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dbbfa47 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-034-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-035-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-035-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..529696c --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-035-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-035-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-035-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..09925a8 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-035-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-035-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-035-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d606eb9 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-035-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-035-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-035-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3f3cc1f --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-035-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-035-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-035-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d146b58 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-035-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-035-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-035-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c64670d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-035-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-036-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-036-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4b3ccdb --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-036-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-036.png b/29382-h/images/illus-036.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..d814952 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-036.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-064-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-064-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02f0006 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-064-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-064.png b/29382-h/images/illus-064.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a3337db --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-064.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4a06e1 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2d16060 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9afd7bc --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f7cfbb5 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f778e91 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0323265 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-4-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-4-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..329f2ac --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-4-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-065-4.png b/29382-h/images/illus-065-4.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..68c3343 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-065-4.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-066-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-066-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5e254a6 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-066-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-066-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-066-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5cfcd68 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-066-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-066-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-066-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f14ac59 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-066-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-066-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-066-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..39b3ee2 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-066-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-066-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-066-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0e535b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-066-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-066-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-066-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..59b7313 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-066-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-067-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-067-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dc5163e --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-067-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-067.png b/29382-h/images/illus-067.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6c75c93 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-067.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5377295 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1ccf12d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..703c693 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..774f45b --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..31c5898 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..18a2116 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-4-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-4-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3d996ad --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-4-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-068-4.png b/29382-h/images/illus-068-4.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b99c2bf --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-068-4.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-069-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-069-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8ff5529 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-069-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-069.png b/29382-h/images/illus-069.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f5d7729 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-069.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-071-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-071-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..02cb1f7 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-071-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-071-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-071-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b9c6745 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-071-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-071-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-071-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..8122098 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-071-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-071-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-071-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..59481f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-071-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-072-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-072-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dfdb902 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-072-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-072-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-072-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..94b07c3 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-072-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-072-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-072-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..0725dda --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-072-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-072-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-072-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..6a2ffe4 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-072-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-073-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-073-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3c15c75 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-073-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-073-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-073-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..dbafe10 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-073-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-073-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-073-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..21b054b --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-073-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-073-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-073-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..62c7178 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-073-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-074-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-074-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..4f9d824 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-074-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-074-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-074-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..68caf7d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-074-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-074-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-074-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f1b9c7d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-074-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-074-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-074-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af70bc7 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-074-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-075-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-075-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1d37417 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-075-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-075.png b/29382-h/images/illus-075.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..58400b4 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-075.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-076-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-076-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e090463 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-076-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-076.png b/29382-h/images/illus-076.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..30b1ac4 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-076.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-126-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-126-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..c747918 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-126-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-126.png b/29382-h/images/illus-126.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5f35d82 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-126.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-128-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-128-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3aca924 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-128-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-128-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-128-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b4a1b4a --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-128-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-128-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-128-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f4aae3a --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-128-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-128-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-128-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..af275ad --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-128-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-129-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-129-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..cba009d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-129-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-129.png b/29382-h/images/illus-129.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..9bdcc2b --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-129.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-130-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-130-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e21dd32 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-130-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-130-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-130-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b321780 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-130-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-130-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-130-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7dc95ab --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-130-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-130-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-130-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..887e103 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-130-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-131-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-131-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7ee5e7c --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-131-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-131-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-131-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..93fb9a1 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-131-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-131-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-131-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a42b108 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-131-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-131-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-131-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fae61dd --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-131-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-132-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-132-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3dece1c --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-132-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-132.png b/29382-h/images/illus-132.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1fdc2a0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-132.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-133-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-133-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..29f5a12 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-133-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-133-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-133-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..816c889 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-133-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-133-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-133-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..e2f3c2f --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-133-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-133-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-133-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..a4b7c15 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-133-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-133-3-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-133-3-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..45f98c7 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-133-3-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-133-3.png b/29382-h/images/illus-133-3.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..efa263d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-133-3.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-139-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-139-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..42612ee --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-139-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-139.png b/29382-h/images/illus-139.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..60dd807 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-139.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-140-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-140-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..2e36be0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-140-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-140-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-140-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f547164 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-140-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-140-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-140-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..73ce16c --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-140-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-140-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-140-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3b8eb95 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-140-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-143-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-143-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..1708d12 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-143-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-143.png b/29382-h/images/illus-143.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..3aa50b0 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-143.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-144-1-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-144-1-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..036c581 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-144-1-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-144-1.png b/29382-h/images/illus-144-1.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..ac3c69c --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-144-1.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-144-2-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-144-2-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..190bf4a --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-144-2-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-144-2.png b/29382-h/images/illus-144-2.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fdd2aee --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-144-2.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-148-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-148-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..fa4d518 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-148-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-148.png b/29382-h/images/illus-148.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..19ba7cf --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-148.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-149-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-149-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..115fbb1 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-149-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-149.png b/29382-h/images/illus-149.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b155575 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-149.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-153-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-153-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..715d9b3 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-153-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-153.png b/29382-h/images/illus-153.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..b3dfee5 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-153.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-154-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-154-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..7678346 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-154-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-154.png b/29382-h/images/illus-154.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..12cc077 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-154.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-155-full.png b/29382-h/images/illus-155-full.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..f5741ac --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-155-full.png diff --git a/29382-h/images/illus-155.png b/29382-h/images/illus-155.png Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..5afc71d --- /dev/null +++ b/29382-h/images/illus-155.png diff --git a/29382.txt b/29382.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..c424371 --- /dev/null +++ b/29382.txt @@ -0,0 +1,5718 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Ladies' Work-Table Book, by Anonymous + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Ladies' Work-Table Book + Containing Clear and Practical Instructions in Plain and + Fancy Needlework, Embroidery, Knitting, Netting and Crochet + +Author: Anonymous + +Release Date: July 12, 2009 [EBook #29382] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + +Transcriber's Note + +Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of corrections +is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and +hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled +and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. + + + + + THE + + LADIES' + WORK-TABLE BOOK; + + CONTAINING + + CLEAR AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS + + IN + + PLAIN AND FANCY NEEDLEWORK, + EMBROIDERY, KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET. + + WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, + ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE VARIOUS STITCHES IN THOSE USEFUL AND + FASHIONABLE EMPLOYMENTS. + + + NEW-YORK: + J. WINCHESTER, 30 ANN-STREET + 1844. + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + + +If it be true that "home scenes are rendered happy or miserable in +proportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them by +woman--as sister, wife, or mother"--it will be admitted as a fact of the +utmost importance, that every thing should be done to improve the taste, +cultivate the understanding, and elevate the character of those "high +priestesses" of our domestic sanctuaries. The page of history informs +us, that the progress of any nation in morals, civilization, and +refinement, is in proportion to the elevated or degraded position in +which woman is placed in society; and the same instructive volume will +enable us to perceive, that the fanciful creations of the needle, have +exerted a marked influence over the pursuits and destinies of man. + +To blend the useful, with the ornamental and to exhibit the gushing +forth of mind, vitalised by the warm and glowing affections of the +heart, is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of woman. Without her +influence, life would be arrayed in sables, and the proud lords of +creation would be infinitely more miserable and helpless than the beasts +that perish. To render then those "terrestrial angels" all that our +fondest wishes could desire, or our most vivid imaginations picture, +must be, under any circumstances, a pleasing and delightful employment; +while for a father or a brother to behold her returning all the care +bestowed upon her, by the thousand offices of love, to the performance +to which she alone is equal, is doubtless one of the most exalted +sources of human felicity. + +Providence has, in a remarkable manner, adapted woman's tastes and +propensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the scale of +being. Tender and affectionate, it is her highest bliss to minister to +the wants, the convenience, or the pleasure of those she loves; and +hence, her inventive powers have been, in all ages, called into early +and active exercise, in the fabrication of those articles calculated to +accomplish those desirable ends. Amongst these, Useful and Ornamental +Needlework, Knitting, and Netting, occupy a distinguished place, and +are capable of being made, not only sources of personal gratification, +but of high moral benefit, and the means of developing in surpassing +loveliness and grace, some of the highest and noblest feelings of the +soul. + +To become an expert needle-woman should be an object of ambition to +every fair one. Never is beauty and feminine grace so attractive, as +when engaged in the honorable discharge of household duties, and +domestic cares. The subjects treated of in this little manual are of +vast importance, and to them we are indebted for a large amount of the +comforts we enjoy; as, without their aid, we should be reduced to a +state of misery and destitution of which it is hardly possible to form +an adequate conception. To learn, then, how to fabricate articles of +dress and utility for family use, or, in the case of ladies blessed with +the means of affluence, for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor, +should form one of the most prominent branches of female education. And +yet experience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with +the general state of society, that this is a branch of study to which +nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school +instruction. The effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent in +after life, when, from a variety of circumstances, such knowledge would +be of the highest advantage, and subservient to the noblest ends, either +of domestic comfort, or of active and generous benevolence. + +The records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the art of +needlework; and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the earliest +developments of female taste and ingenuity. As civilization increased, +new wants called forth new exertions; the loom poured forth its +multifarious materials, and the needle, with its accompanying +implements, gave form and utility to the fabrics submitted to its +operations. No one can look upon THE NEEDLE, without emotion; it is a +constant companion throughout the pilgrimage of life. We find it the +first instrument of use placed in the hand of budding childhood, and it +is found to retain its usefulness and charm, even when trembling in the +grasp of fast declining age. The little girl first employs it in the +dressing of her doll: then she is taught its still higher use, in making +up some necessary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent. +Approaching to womanhood, additional preparations of articles of use, as +ornaments of herself and others, call for its daily employment; and with +what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the bosom, as +beneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover or adorn a +bride, becomes visible in the charming productions of female skill and +fond regard. To the adornments of the bridal bed, the numerous +preparations for an anxiously-expected little stranger, and the various +comforts and conveniences of life, the service of this little instrument +is indispensible. Often too is it found aiding in the preparation of +gifts of friendship, the effects of benevolence, and the works of +charity. Many of those articles, which minister so essentially to the +solace of the afflicted, would be unknown without it; and its friendly +aid does not desert us, even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction. +By its aid, we form the last covering which is to enwrap the body of a +departed loved one, and prepare those sable habiliments, which custom +has adopted as the external signs of mourning. + +The needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to the +female heart; and we would impress this truth seriously upon their +recollection, that as there is + + "Sermons in stones, + And good in every thing." + +so the needle they so often use, is, or may be, a silent but salutary +moral teacher. They all know that however good the eye of a needle may +be, if it were rusted and pointless, it would be of little use. Let them +also recollect, that though it may posses the finest point and polish in +the world, if destitute of the eye, it would be of no use at all. The +lesson we wish them to derive from hence, is this; that as it is the eye +which holds the thread, and that it is by the thread alone that the +needle becomes useful, so it is the eye of intelligence directed to the +attainment of useful ends, that gives all the real value to the point +and polish, which is so much admired in the educated female; and that +unless the intellectual powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits of +goodness, all other endowments will be useless to their possessor. Let +them learn also, not to despise such of their companions as, though +intelligent and useful, are neither possessed of wit or elegance equal +to their own. Circumstances may have rendered them, like the needle, +rusty and pointless; but the eye of intelligence is there, and they may +still be useful. + +The want of a work containing clear instructions, without unnecessary +diffuseness, by which the uninitiated may become their own instructors, +has long been sensibly felt; and this want, the following pages are +intended to supply. Our aim is, not to make young ladies servile +copyists, but to lead them to the formation of habits of thought and +reflection, which may issue in higher attainments than the knitting of a +shawl, or the netting of a purse. + +Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the +development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all +worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to +flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and +admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make +all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the +happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this +end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, +in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish +them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some +noble purpose, which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the +well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the +elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, +by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a +leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such +they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and +placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important +duties, which we owe to Heaven, to our fellow beings, and to ourselves. + +We are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the attainment +of moral ends; and to lay that foundation of intellectual superiority, +and affectionate regard, for the comfort and happiness of others, which +can alone give light and animation, sweetness and blooming freshness, to +the interesting scenes of future life. All engagements, which are +calculated to elevate, soften, and harmonize the human character, have +this tendency; and it is in the assured conviction that the employments +here treated of, are, when cultivated in due subordination to higher +duties, well adapted to secure these objects, and to promote these +domestic ends, that the Ladies' Work-Table Book has been prepared, and +is now presented to the lovely daughters of our land. The public will be +the best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort. Small as the +work is, it has not been produced without much labor, and considerable +exercise of thought; and it is dedicated to our fair countrywomen, in +the fervent hope, that it will not be found altogether unworthy of their +favorable notice and regard. + +In concluding these introductory remarks, we wish to say a word or two +to the parents and guardians of those, whose excellence of character is +so essential to the welfare of our beloved country. We trust by you, our +little manual will be cordially approved, and placed, as a memento of +affection, in the hands of those you most desire to see models of +sincerity, elegance, and accomplishments. This will be well; but we +trust the matter will not be allowed to rest there. It is not when good +instructors and proper books are provided for the young, that the duties +of the parental relationship are performed. No; care must be taken to +give efficiency to the means thus called into requisition, by the most +assiduous care, devoted attention, and judiciously expressed approval on +the part of those who claim the highest regard from the rising +generation. The path of education is not always strewed with flowers, +nor can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless a +foundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid, on which the +superstructure may securely rest. + +It has been well remarked "that intellect may be cultivated at school, +but that the affections of the heart can only be properly developed amid +the scenes of home." Our aim in this work has been, while seeking to +promote the purposes of genuine education, to raise high the moral +sentiments, and cultivate to an eminent degree the best sensibilities of +the soul. In this we ask for your cordial and careful co-operation. We +know the influence of a judicious mother, and we confidently commend our +labor to your favorable regard. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + + CHAPTER I. + MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING 17 + + CHAPTER II. + PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 28 + + CHAPTER III. + PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN 37 + + CHAPTER IV. + PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN 54 + + CHAPTER V. + PLAIN NEEDLEWORK--MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS 59 + + CHAPTER VI. + FANCY NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 63 + + CHAPTER VII. + FANCY NEEDLEWORK--EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS 71 + + CHAPTER VIII. + FANCY NEEDLEWORK--INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY 79 + + CHAPTER IX. + FANCY NEEDLEWORK--PREPARATION OF FRAMES 82 + + CHAPTER X. + FANCY NEEDLEWORK--APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL + PURPOSES 88 + + CHAPTER XI. + FANCY NEEDLEWORK--SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS 91 + + CHAPTER XII. + KNITTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 97 + + CHAPTER XIII. + KNITTING--EXAMPLES IN KNITTING 111 + + CHAPTER XIV. + NETTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 125 + + CHAPTER XV. + NETTING--EXAMPLES IN NETTING 135 + + CHAPTER XVI. + CROCHET--EXPLANATION OF THE PRINCIPAL STITCHES IN CROCHET WORK 142 + + CHAPTER XVII. + CROCHET--EXAMPLES IN CROCHET 148 + + CHAPTER XVIII. + TATTING--EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 153 + + CHAPTER XIX. + CONCLUDING REMARKS 155 + + + + +THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. + + +CHAPTER I. + +MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING. + + +MATERIALS FOR PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. + +The subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possible to pay +too much attention; since, on the judicious selection of materials, +depends, to a vast extent, the success of that prudent and +well-regulated economy, which is so essential to the welfare and +prosperity of every family. On this account, we have thought it right to +place before our readers the following observations, which should be +carefully attended to, as of the utmost importance. In purchasing goods, +be careful to examine the quality; and, if not experienced in such +matters, take with you an experienced friend. Cheap goods generally +prove the dearest in the end. The following rules may assist you in this +respect, if under the necessity of relying upon your own judgment. Be +careful, in purchasing articles, such as linen, calico, &c., for a +specific purpose, to have it the proper width. A great deal of waste may +be incurred, by inattention to this important direction. + +CALICO is often so dressed up, as to make it extremely difficult to +ascertain its real quality: hence, it is best to buy it undressed. It +should be soft, and free from specks. It is of various widths, and of +almost all prices. A good article, at a medium price, will be found +cheapest in the end. + +LINEN is of various qualities. That which is called Suffolk hemp is +considered the best. Irish linen is also in great repute. But you must +be careful to escape imposition; as there are plenty of imitations, +which are good for nothing. + +MUSLIN CHECKS are much used for caps, &c., and are of various qualities. +You may form a good judgment of these, by observing the thin places +between the checks and the threads; if the former be good, and the +latter even, they may generally be relied on. + +BLUE CHECKS.--These may be procured either of cotton or linen; but the +linen ones, though highest in price, are cheapest in the end: they will +wear double the length of time that the cotton ones will. + +PRINTS.--Give a good price, if you wish to secure a good article. Some +colors, as red, pink, lilac, bright brown, buff, and blue, wear well; +green, violet, and some other colors are very liable to fade. The best +way is to procure a patch, and wash half of it. This will test the +color, and may prevent much disappointment. + +FLANNELS.--The Welsh flannels are generally preferred, as those that are +the most durable. Lancashire flannels are cheapest, but are far inferior +in quality. You may know the one from the other by the color: the +flannels of Lancashire are of a yellowish hue; those of Wales are a kind +of bluish gray tint. + +WOOLLEN CLOTHS.--These vary exceedingly, as to quality. The low-priced +ones are not worth half the purchase money. Good woollen cloth is +smooth, and has a good nap. If the sample shown you, be destitute of +these qualities, have nothing to do with it, unless you want to be +cheated. + +STUFFS.--The quality of these is sometimes very difficult to detect. +Holding them up to the light is a good plan. You should also be +particular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indifferently +managed, and the stuff is dashed. Black dye is liable to injure the +material. Low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything. + +CRAPE.--This is often damaged in the dying. You should spread it over a +white surface before you purchase it, as by that means, the blemishes in +the material, if any, will be more likely to appear. + +SILKS.--These are, if good, costly; and great care should be exercised +in selecting them. They should not be too stiff, as in that case they +are liable to crack; and on the other hand, they should not be too thin, +as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon as paper. A medium +thickness and stiffness is the best. If plain, you must be careful that +there are no stains or specks in them; and if figured, it is advisable +to have the pattern equally good on both sides. This will enhance the +price at first, but you will find it to be good economy afterward. In +silks that are to be sold cheap, a kind of camel's hair is frequently +introduced. This may be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected +silk cross ways, and if camel's hair be mixed with it, it will spring +with a kind of whirring sound. This should be attended to. + +SATIN.--It is of various qualities and prices. The best is soft and +thick. When used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross way, as it +then looks better, and has a much richer appearance than when put on +straight. + +These general observations will be of great use, and should be well +impressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into exercise when +needed. + +In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sewing-silk +should be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored threads and +cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to injure them. +Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, when not in use, +should be kept folded up; as exposure to the air not only tarnishes +them, but is likely to injure them in a variety of ways. + + +MATERIALS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + +Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch with +double wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa-pillow, &c. + +Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in cross stitch, over +one thread, with single wool. If used for grounding, work in two +threads. This will accelerate the work, and look equally well. + +Silk Leaves.--If no grounding is required, work in tent stitch. The +pattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the material. +The finer the canvas, the larger the pattern. + +Color.--An attention to shade is of the utmost consequence; as on this, +in an eminent degree, depends the perfection of the work. The shades +must be so chosen, as to blend into each other, or all harmony of +coloring will be destroyed. The canvas must be more distinct in tent +stitch than in cross stitch, or rather more strongly contrasted, +especially in the dark shades of flowers: without attention to this +point, a good resemblance of nature cannot be obtained. + +Wool, (English and German) white, black, and various colors.--Two, +three, four, five, or six shades of each color, as the nature of the +work may require. The same observation applies to silk and cotton, in +cases where those materials are used. + +Split wool, for mosaic work. + +Silk. Split silk. Floss. Half twist. Deckers. China silk. Fine purse +silk. + +Cotton, of various kinds. + +Gold twist. Silver thread. Chenille. + +Beads. Thick and transparent gold. Bright and burnt steel. Silver +plated, &c. + +Perforated cards. + +Canvas, called bolting, for bead work. + + +SCALE OF CANVASES. + + English Canvas. + ------------------------------------------- + Canvas No. Cross stitch. Tent stitch. + ------------------------------------------- + 16 4-1/2 9 + 18 5 10 + 20 5-1/2 11 + 22 6 12 + 24 6-1/2 13 + 26 7 14 + 28 7-1/2 15 + 30 8 16 + 32 9 18 + 34 9-1/2 19 + 36 10 20 + 38 10-1/4 21 + 40 11 22 + 42 11-1/2 23 + 45 12-1/2 25 + 48 13 26 + 50 14 28 + 55 15 30 + 60 17 34 + + Silk Canvas. + ------------------------------------------- + Canvas No. Cross stitch. Tent stitch. + ------------------------------------------- + 14 28 + + French Canvas. + ------------------------------------------- + Canvas No. Cross stitch. Tent stitch. + ------------------------------------------- + 10 6-1/2 13 + 12 7-1/2 15 + 14 8-1/2 17 + 16 9-1/2 19 + 18 10 20 + 19 11 22 + 20 12 24 + 22 13 26 + 24 14 28 + 26 + 30 15 30 + 40 16 32 + + +MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERY. + +Silk, satin, velvet, and cloth. + + +MATERIALS FOR KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET. + +SILK.--This material is extensively used in the various productions of +which we are about to treat. The kinds usually employed in Knitting, +Netting, and Crochet, are purse silk, or twist; coarse and fine netting +silk; second sized purse twist; plain silk; China silk; extra fine, and +finest netting silk; second sized netting silk; coarse and fine +chenille, and crochet silk. These are so well known that it would be a +waste of time to describe them in detail. They are of a great variety of +colors, and of different qualities; some sorts being much more durable, +both in fabric and color, than others. No young lady should trust, at +first, to her own judgment in making the selection: but a little +attention will soon render her a proficient in the art of choosing the +most profitable materials. The China silks of the French surpass all +others, of that kind, with which we are acquainted, both as to the +nature of tints, and the brilliancy of the various dyes and shades. + +WOOL.--This is of various colors and shades; German wool, single, and +double; Hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, seven, and +eight threads; embroidery fleecy Shetland wool; English wool, coarse +yarn, for mitts. + + +BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF WOOLS. + +German wool is the produce of the merino breed, in its highest state of +cultivation, and is the best sheep's wool we possess. The merino fleece +is brought to the greatest perfection in Saxony, and the adjacent +states. It is chiefly manufactured for the purposes of needle-work, &c., +at Gotha; the dyeing of it is performed at Berlin, and in other parts of +Germany. The wools of Germany are, in fineness and softness, much, +superior to those of Spain. The wool is prepared in various sizes, and +for some kinds of work, may be split with great advantage. A large +quantity is imported into this country in a raw state, and is dyed and +manufactured here. Some of this is equal to the wools prepared in +Germany, as to quality; but the brilliancy of the color will not bear +comparison. This remark does not extend to the black German wool, +prepared in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared on +the continent. Much wool, of a very superior quality is annually +prepared for the market; and so great is its resemblance to a superior +article, that it requires much attention, and an experienced eye, to +detect the fraud. English wool, or what is often called embroidery wool, +is much harsher than that of Germany; yet it is of a very superior kind, +and much to be preferred for some kinds of work. The dye of several +colors of English lamb's wool is equal to that of the best dyes of +Germany; especially scarlet and some of the shades of blue, green, and +gold color, which for brilliancy and permanency, may justly claim +equality with the most finished productions of the continental states. + +Worsted is another description of our native produce, and is extensively +used for a great variety of useful purposes, which are familiar to every +one. A great portion of the needle-work of the last century was done in +a fine kind of worsted, called CREWELS: and some specimens still remain, +which do great credit to the venerable grandames of the present +generation. Yarn is a coarse kind of worsted, much employed in making +garden nets, and for various other purposes. Fleecy (English) is +manufactured from the Leicestershire breed, and is much used in knitting +and netting: it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from an +eighth to a quarter of an inch in diameter. They are made up of threads, +varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. They are applied +to crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work named. German +fleecy, thought but little used, is much superior to that of this +country. Hamburgh wool is an excellent article, but has not hitherto +been much in request. Great care is necessary, in selecting wool of good +quality: but let the young novice give to the subject her best +attention; and should she find herself sometimes deceived, still +persevere, remembering that "practice makes perfect." + +COTTON, of various sizes, as numbered from one to six, or higher if +required. In the choice of this material, much care is needed, not only +in the selection of colors and shades, but also to ascertain if the +color has been stained with a permanent dye. + +DOWN.--This is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions, muffs, &c., +and is too well known to need any description here. + +GOLD AND SILVER THREAD AND CORD.--The precious metals are now very +generally employed in the ornamental parts of all kinds of fancy work. +Gold and silver threads consists of a thread of silk, round which is +spun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal required. For gold, silver or +copper gilt wire is employed, as pure gold could not be so easily +wrought. These threads can be employed in almost any way which the taste +of the fair artist may induce her to devise. Besides the thread, gold +and silver cord is also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful, +when employed with taste and judgment. This material is a twist, and is +composed of different quantities of threads, according to the thickness +required. Much care is required in working with it, or the beauty of the +material will be spoilt. It is much used in crochet, and without due +attention, the point of the needle is liable to catch the cord, and to +break the wire, which would entirely destroy the beauty of the +performance. + +BEADS.--These beautiful fabrications of art, are composed of gold, +silver, polished steel, and glass. There is also a beautiful sort called +garnet beads, with gold points. All these can be procured at any of the +establishments for the sale of fancy articles, and are to be employed as +the judgment or fancy may direct. The gold beads are used in making all +kinds of knitting, netting, and crochet, and look well either by +themselves, or when in connection with those of the other materials +named. Glass beads, may be procured of any variety of color, and when in +combination with gold, silver, or steel, form a beautiful relief. + + +NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + +Frames. Cross stitch needles. Sewing needles. Meshes, of various +sizes--at least three. Chenille Needles. Pair of long sharp-pointed +scissors. Cartridge Paper. Tissue Paper. A fine piercer. Seam piercer. +Camel's hair brushes. + +Mixture of white lead and gum water, to draw patterns for dark +materials. + +Mixture of stone blue and gum water, for light colors. + +Black lead pencils. + + +NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR KNITTING. + +Needles of various sizes. The Nos. referred to are those of the knitting +needle gauge. Needles pointed at either end, for Turkish knitting. +Ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. A knitting sheath, &c., +to be fastened on the waist of the knitter, toward the right hand, for +the purpose of keeping the needle in a steady and proper position. + + +NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR NETTING. + +A pin or mesh, on which to form the loops. A needle called a netting +needle, formed into a kind of fork, with two prongs at each end. The +ends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point, not fastened like the +eye of a common needle, but left open, that the thread or twine may pass +between them, and be wound upon the needle. The prongs are brought to a +point, in order that the needle may pass through a small loop without +interruption. Twine to form foundations. A fine long darning needle for +bead work. Meshes of various, sizes from No. 1 to 11. Flat meshes, and +ivory meshes; also of various sizes. The gauge is the same as that for +knitting-needles. + + +NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR CROCHET. + +[Illustration] + +Ivory crochet needles of various sizes. Steel crochet needles. Rug +needles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors. These implements +should be disposed in a regular and orderly manner, as should also the +materials for working. Order and regularity are matters but too +frequently neglected in the gay and buoyant season of youth; and this +fault, which is the parent of so much annoyance in after life, is but +too generally overlooked by those whose duty it is to correct these +incipient seeds of future mischief. No pursuit should be entered into by +the young, without having some moral end in view, and this is especially +needful to be observed in cases, where at first sight, it might appear a +matter of indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or of +mere relaxation. We earnestly entreat our young friends, never to +forget, that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sacrifice +to their heavenly Father, if they assiduously endeavor to make the +habits they form in their seasons of relaxation from graver studies, +conduce to the development of the higher faculties of their nature, and +subordinate preparations for a more exalted state of being, than any +which this transitory scene can of itself present to their +contemplation and pursuits. Dyer, speaking of Tapestry, has beautifully +said-- + + "This bright art + Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan lands, + While she assayed with rage of holy war + To desolate their fields; but old the skill: + Long were the Phrygian's pict'ring looms renown'd; + Tyre also, wealthy seat of art, excell'd, + And elder Sidon, in th' historic web." + +But we would have our fair friends to place before them a high and a +definite object. Let them seek, like the excellent Miss Linwood-- + + "To raise at once our reverence and delight, + To elevate the mind and charm the sight, + To pour religion through the attentive eye, + And waft the soul on wings of extacy; + Bid mimic art with nature's self to vie, + And raise the spirit to its native sky." + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. + + +EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. + +Before commencing those directions, which we deem it necessary to +place before our readers, in reference to this important portion +of the work-table manual, we wish to say a word or two to our fair +countrywomen, on the importance of a general and somewhat extensive +acquaintance with those arts, on which so much of the comfort of +individual and domestic life depends. Economy of time, labor, and +expenses, is an essential requisite in every family; and will ever claim +a due share of attention, from her who is desirous of fulfilling with +credit to herself and advantage to others, the allotted duties of her +appointed station. To those, who are at the head of the majority of +families, an extensive knowledge of the various departments of plain +needlework is indispensable. The means placed at their disposal are +limited; in many instances, extremely so: and to make the most of these +means, generally provided by the continual care and unremitting +attention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which cannot +be violated without the entailment of consequences which every well +regulated mind must be anxious to avoid. + +The following are the principal stitches used in plain needlework. + +SEWING AND FELLING.--If you have selvages, join them together and sew +them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down one of the edges once, and +the other double the breadth, and then turn half of it back again. This +is for the fell. The two pieces are pinned face to face, and seamed +together; the stitches being in a slanting direction, and just deep +enough to hold the separate pieces firmly together. Then flatten the +seam with the thumb, turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming. +The thread is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over. + +HEMMINGS.--Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. Flatten, and be +careful, especially in turning down the corners. Hem from right to left; +bring the point of the needle from the chest toward the right hand. +Fasten the thread without a knot, and when you finish, sew several +stitches close together, and cut off the thread. + +GERMAN HEMMING.--Turn down both the raw edges once, taking care so to do +it, as that both turns may be toward your person; you then lay one below +the other, so as that the smooth edge of the nearest does not touch the +other, but lies just beneath it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or +felled to the piece against which you have laid it, still holding it +before you. You are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have +been employed upon; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it +down, and the work is done. + +MANTUAMAKER'S HEM.--You lay the raw edge of one of your pieces a little +below the other; the upper edge is then turned over the other twice, and +felled down as strong as possible. + +RUNNING.--Take three threads, leave three, and in order that the work +may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. If you sew +selvages, they must be joined evenly together; but if raw edges, one +must be turned down once, and the other laid upon it, but a few threads +from the top. It is, in this case, to be felled afterwards. + +STITCHING.--The work must be even as possible. Turn down a piece to +stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or fourteen threads from +the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two threads back, and so bring, +the needle out, from under two before. Proceed in this manner, to the +end of the row; and in joining a fresh piece of thread, take care to +pass the needle between the edges and bring it out where the last stitch +was finished. + +GATHERING.--You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and dividing +it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to make the +divisions. The piece, to which you are intending to gather it, must be +gathered about twelve threads from the top, taking three threads on the +needle, and leaving four; and so preceding, alternately, until one +quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by twisting it round a pin; +stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly and neatly, with a strong +needle or pin. You then proceed as before, until all the gathers are +gathered. Then take out the pins, and regulate the gathers of each +quarter, so as to correspond with those of the piece to which it is to +be sewed. The gathers are then to be fastened on, one at a time; and the +stitches must be in a slanting direction. The part to be gathered must +be cut quite even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to +make the gathering look well. + +DOUBLE GATHERING, OR PUFFING.--This is sometimes employed in setting on +frills; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. You first gather +the top, in the usual way; then, having stroked down the gathers, you +gather again under the first gathering, and of such a depth as you wish +the puffing to be. You then sew on the first gathering to the gown, +frock, &c. you design to trim, at a distance, corresponding with the +width of the puffing: and the second gathering sewed to the edge, so as +to form a full hem. You may make a double hem, if you please, by +gathering three times instead of only twice; and one of the hems may be +straight, while the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires +much exactness, in the execution; but if properly done, it gives a +pleasing variety to the work. + +WHIPPING.--You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves and quarters, +as for gathering. You then roll the muslin or other material very +lightly upon the finger, making use of the left thumb for that purpose. +The needle must go in on the outside, and be brought through, on the +inside. The whipping-cotton should be as strong and even as possible. In +order that the stitches may draw with ease, they must be taken with +great care. The roll of the whip should be about ten threads. + +[Illustration] + +BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.--These should be cut by a thread, and their length +should be that of the diameter of the button. In working, the +button-hole must lie lengthways upon the forefinger; and you begin at +the side which is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest from the point +of the finger on which it is laid. The needle must go in on the wrong +side, and be brought out on the right, five threads down. To make the +stitch, the needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close. +In turning the corners, be careful not to do it too near; and in order +that a proper thickness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needle +should go in between every two threads. Making button-holes, requires +great care and attention. + +[Illustration] + +FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH.--This resembles a very wide button-hole +stitch, and is very neat for the fronts of bodies, where it has a very +pretty appearance; likewise for the bands and the shoulder bits, and +above the broad hems and tucks of frocks. + +[Illustration] + +CHAIN STITCH.--In making this stitch, you are to employ union cord, +bobbin, or braid, whichever you think most suitable. Make a knot at the +end, and draw it through to the right side. While you put in the needle, +let the end hang loose, and bring it out below, so as to incline a +little towards the left hand. Pass your needle over the cord, as you +draw it out, and this will form a loop. In drawing out the mesh, you +must be careful not to draw the stitch too tight, as that would destroy +the effect. You proceed in the same manner to form the next, and each +succeeding loop; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, and +rather more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each loop +begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and you thus +produce the resemblance of a chain. + +[Illustration] + +FANCY CHAIN STITCH.--The only difference between this and the common +chain stitch, is that very little of the cord is taken up on the needle +at a time, and the stitches are far from each other. Its appearance will +be varied, according as you put in the needle, to slant little or much. +If you should work it perfectly horizontal, it is the same as +button-hole stitch. + +[Illustration] + +HERRING-BONING.--This is generally employed in articles composed of +flannel, or other thick material. The edge is to be cut even, and turned +down once. You work from left to right, thus: Put your needle into the +material, and take a stitch of two or three threads, as close as +possible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle half way up that part +which is turned down, and four or five threads toward the right hand; +make another stitch, and bring down the needle; thus proceed until the +work is finished. This stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish, +and is sometimes used as an ornament for children's robes, and at the +top of hems. It looks both neat and elegant, when carefully executed. + +[Illustration] + +FANCY HERRING-BONING.--This is the same as common herring-bone, only it +is done in a perpendicular manner, instead of being worked horizontally +from left to right; and the thread is brought round behind the needle, +so as to finish the work in a more elegant manner. It has an exceeding +neat and pleasing look, when it is well executed, and is considered as +highly ornamental, in appropriate situations. + +[Illustration] + +ANGULAR STITCH.--This stitch resembles button-hole stitch, only it is +carried from right to left to form the pattern. It is a neat ornament +for cuffs, skirts and capes, and children's pelisses. As much of its +beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to make the +patterns very even and straight, and of an equal width; without due +attention to this, the work will be spoiled. + +[Illustration] + +DOUBLE HERRING-BONING.--This pattern is a kind of double herring-bone, +on each side; it is too intricate to describe minutely. The engraving +will give a better idea of this stitch than any description we could +give. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is +advisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it, to serve as a +guide. + +[Illustration] + +HORSE-SHOE STITCH.--This is done with thick, loosely-twisted cotton, or +bobbin, and is worked from left to right, as shown in the accompanying +engraving. It has a very neat and pretty appearance, when worked near +the edge of hems, robings, &c. + +[Illustration] + +FANCY BOBBIN EDGING.--This is formed by a succession of loops made in +the following manner: Make a knot at the end, and put the needle through +to the right side, just below the hem. Bring the bobbin over the hem, +and, putting the needle in at the wrong side, bring it through to the +right. Draw the loop to the size you desire, pass the bobbin through it, +and commence the next stitch, proceeding as before. + +CHAIN STITCH, ON GATHERS.--This looks well, if worked in colored +worsted, or in cord. Two gathers are taken up for each stitch, taking +care always to take one of the previous stitches and one new gather on +the needle at the same time. + +[Illustration] + +CORAL PATTERN.--This requires great accuracy in the working, and it is +advisable for the inexperienced to run lines, in long stitches, to fix +the middle and outsides of the pattern. It may be best understood by the +engraving, merely observing that the stitch is begun on the left hand, +and continued alternately from left to right, always pointing the needle +toward the centre. It is very suitable for the waist-bands of children's +frocks, the tops of broad hems, &c. + +[Illustration] + +SERPENTINE STITCH.--This is exceedingly pretty, and is much employed for +children's dresses. It is worked with the hand, being sewn on to the +material when made. Take the cord, knot it so as to form a loop at the +end; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the front, to form +another loop to the right hand; continue passing the bobbin through the +loop on one side, then through the loop on the other, directing the cord +so as to pass from the side of the work invariably towards the inner, or +that part next the work. + +[Illustration] + +BIASSING.--In this operation, the first part of the stitch is the same +as gathering. You then stitch down; and upon the right side of the +gather, you lay a thread a good deal thicker than the one you used for +gathering thread. Over this thread you sew, taking care to take hold +also of the gathering thread. The needle is always to be pointed toward +your chest. You may work two or three rows in this way, on the sleeves +and shoulders of dresses, &c., which has a handsome effect. You must +take great care to bring the needle out between each one of the gathers. + +[Illustration] + +HONEY COMBING.--The material may be velvet, silk, &c.; and the mode of +working is as follows: The piece you intend honey-combing, must be +creased in regular folds, taking care that they are as even as possible. +Then make the folds lie closely together, by tacking them with a strong +thread, and in long stitches. You then take silk of the right color; +stitch together at equal and proper distances the two first folds, and +proceed, with each succeeding two, in the same manner, only taking the +stitches in the intermediate spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternate +row will correspond together. Draw out the thread, when the work is +finished, and on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the right +side. This work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes +employed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well, if carefully +executed. + +A perfect acquaintance with these various stitches, will enable the +practical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and pleasure. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. + + +INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN. + +In order to secure economy of time, labor, and expense, and also to do +everything neatly and in order, the lady who is intending to engage in +the domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal and +family use, should be careful to have all her materials ready, and +disposed in the most systematic manner possible, before commencing work. +The materials employed in the construction of articles, which come under +the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list +of them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so well +known, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shall +therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any lady +may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses, +merely observing, that a neat work-box, well supplied with all the +implements required--including knife, scissors (of at least three +sizes,) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles, +thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, india +rubber, &c., should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key, +to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children, +servants, or unauthorized intruders. + +The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, implements, +&c., placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of which it is an +advantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of a screw,) may +commence her work, and proceed with pleasure to herself, and without +annoyance to any visitor, who may favor her with a call. We would +recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of +cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a +garden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume +of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose +circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time +to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, at +least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a few +cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator +intended all His children, in whatever station of life they might be +placed, to share in the common bounties of His providence; and when she, +who not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is +compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from the +cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her +duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these +advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of +the case will admit. + +We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear though +concise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress and +attire. + +APRONS.--These are made of a variety of materials, and are applied to +various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are made of white, +blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, and +print, are also employed. The width is generally one breadth of the +material, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. Dress +aprons are, of course, made of finer materials--cambric, muslin, silk, +satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c., and are generally two +breadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on +each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all +kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or +stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom +with a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sides +likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its +length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer. It should be +fastened at the back, with hooks and eyelet holes. To some aprons, +pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the +back, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. The slit, or +opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most +desirable. In some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which are +useful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must be +determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them. + +DRESS APRONS.--Take two breadths of any material you choose, dividing +one of them in the middle. Hem all round, with a broad hem, +three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a-half nails +deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted, +on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. The band is +scolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails, +leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scolloped +portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible; +leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds, by +working two rows of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the +band, leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of the band +is ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top. + +VANDYKE APRON.--This may be made either of silk or muslin. The edge of +the apron is to be turned down, once all round, on the right side, to +the depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are formed by +running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the +material, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes are +completed, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth as +possible. A braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right side, over the +stitches, is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must be +placed opposite each other, so as to meet in the middle. You may line +the band with buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if +you please. + +APRON FOR A YOUNG PERSON.--Clear muslin is the best material. Hem round +with a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem, +a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. Of course, the latter +must be taken off before washing. + +A MORNING APRON.--This may be made like the last, but instead of the +shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped +frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use, is jacconet or +cambric muslin: the frill, of lawn or cambric, which you please. + +GIRL'S APRON.--Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is to +be made to fit the wearer, in front, between the shoulders, and sloping +to the waist. The apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; and +the shoulder straps may be of the same material, or of ribbon. The bib, +either plain or ornamented, with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most +suitable. + +BATHING GOWN.--The materials employed are various, flannels, stuff, or +calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water. +The length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and the +width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. It should be folded +as you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails +for the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and +three-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length +of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three +inches, in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom, +and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight +with strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or +wrist, in a similar manner. + +BUSTLES.--These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon +the person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nails +deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one four +nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admit +of tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each +flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. When worn, the article +is turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, or calico. + +CAPS.--These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials +are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslins +of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and calico, are all in request; and +the borders are extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those +most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us +from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own +pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should +be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not +to waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make this +department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle. + +CHILD'S COLLAR.--This is made of double Irish linen, and is stitched +round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached to +them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children, of +eight or nine years of age. + +CRAVATS.--These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half +handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from +muslin, eighteen nails square. + +CLOAKS.--These useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made +up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particular +directions concerning them. The materials are silks and stuffs, of +almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitation +shawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used. +Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a +much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look +well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same +material. Merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or +velvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly +plain. The lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color, +or else a well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the color +should be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. An +attention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage to +the lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining elegance +of appearance with durability of wear, and economy of price. + +FRILLS.--These are used as ornaments, or a finish to various articles of +dress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c., and the manner +in which they are made is various. Sometimes they are set on quite +plain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to the +width required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the +edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin; it +is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end. +Crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. They +are made of lawn or cambric, and sewed on to a band. The other edge is +hemmed, and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band should +be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as +possible. + +GENTLEMEN'S BELTS.--These are worn by persons who have much and violent +exercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean or +other material, and sometimes of leather, and may either be made +straight, or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted, +to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of +webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. The straps are +about three inches in depth. + +GENTLEMEN'S COLLARS.--These are very generally worn, and are shaped in a +variety of ways. They are made double, and ornamented with a single or +double row of back stitch. They are made to button round the neck, or +are set on to a band for that purpose. It is best to cut the pattern in +paper, and when a good fit is obtained, cut the cloth by the paper +model. + +GENTLEMEN'S FRONTS.--The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes the +sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A false +hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; the +neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered into +a stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck +gussets are introduced. + +LADIES' DRAWERS.--Choose any proper material, and form the article by +making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. Set on a +plain or worked frill at the bottom. When setting the legs on to the +band, place them so as to overlap each other. The band is eleven nails +long, and three deep. + +LADIES' FLANNEL WAISTCOAT.--This is, in many cases, an indispensable +article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece of +flannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, folding it exactly in the +middle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm holes +must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. The front is to be +slightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediately +under the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same in +length, and terminating in a point. Bosom-gores are also to be +introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. They are to be +put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat, +it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and +slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the +front, in which the button holes are made, and buttons set on; the +shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front. + +LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS.--The materials are various, including lawn, +linen, and calico. The jackets are made of two breadths, and as it is +desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two breadths should be +cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. The neck is to +be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and a +slit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass +freely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up, +leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and the neck and bosom are to be +hemmed as neatly as possible. The sleeves are to be made the required +length, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into +the arm holes mentioned above. A neat frill round the neck, bosom, and +wrists, finishes the whole. + +NIGHT GOWNS.--These must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. The +following are directions for three different sizes. The length of the +gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard +and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the +third; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen +nails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half +breadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom +twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen, +fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. The length of the +sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width half a breadth; +they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square, +and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemed +desirable. + +A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve, +which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar about +three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, in +order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail +square, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made in +front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is +three, two and a-half and two nails, respectively. The whole is finished +with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is an +object, cut three gowns together. This will prevent much waste of +material; an object, by every head of a family, to be constantly kept in +view. + +NECK AND POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.--These are made of a great variety of +materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neck +handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. It +is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it more +strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes 'round the waist, and +ties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight +sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their +neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of +lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a +worked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those +of ladies. + +PETTICOATS (FLANNEL).--These are not only useful, but indispensable +articles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is most durable, and +keeps its color best in washing. The length of the petticoat is +regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended; and the +width ranges from three breadths to one and a-half. The bottom is hemmed +with a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong band +of calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button +hole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to which +strings of tape are attached; these are passed through the opposite +holes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle, +which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of about +four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound with a +strong binding. + +PETTICOATS are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also to +make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. They should have +three or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width, and the +bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks or +worked muslin. The latter is extremely neat. They are to be set on to a +strong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back about +four nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only +at the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all the +fulness is thrown to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the +petticoat, is a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist, +or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case the +body should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. The band +is generally about one nail in breadth. The materials proper for +petticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca, +stuff, &c. What are called middle, or under petticoats, are made in the +same manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing +their own infants, and who wear petticoats with bodies to them, have +them open in front. + +PINAFORE.--This is a useful article of dress, especially in large +families. Holland is the best material. For an open one, one breadth is +sufficient. Double the pinafore into four, and cut the arm holes to the +required depth in the two side folds, so that half will form the front. +The neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle, +and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band, which fastens by a +button behind. Sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes, being +gathered near the edge, and set on before the arm hole is hemmed, so +that when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear. The lappet is +a second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as +possible. Then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk +braid that will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is +an advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round the +waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is most to be +preferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Holland, or other +material, will be required. It is seamed up at the sides, leaving slits +for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to go +round the middle of the wearer. Neck gussets may be introduced, but the +much neater way is, to double the pinafore into four, and let in a piece +at each shoulder, about a nail wide, and two nails in length, gathering +each quarter from the arm holes, into the pieces so let in, and felling +similar pieces on the inside of the shoulder. The two middle quarters +are to be gathered into half the collar, and the back in the same +manner. The sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gathered +into the arm holes. A slit is made at the hands, and the bottom is +gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth. + +POCKETS.--These are made of any kind of material you please. You take a +piece of double, and cut it to the shape required. Stitch the two pieces +neatly round, a little distance from the edge. Then turn it, and let the +seam be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an +inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be +either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on the +strings, and the pocket is complete. Some ladies have pockets attached +to the petticoat. In that case, it is only a square of calico, about ten +nails long, and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, as +plain as possible. + +A RIBBON SCARF.--This is made of broad satin ribbon, and must not be +less than two nails and a half wide: its length is two yards and three +quarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in a +slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. The +ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as +may suit the fancy. The scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan's +down. This is an elegant article of female attire. + +PLAIN SCARF.--This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two +yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to +admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished +appearance. + +AN INDIAN SCARF.--This is an elegant article of dress and can be easily +made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors are required: +that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You must have the scarf +four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length: +this must be black. Then you must have of the other two colors, pieces +seven nails long, and the same width as the black, and you are, after +finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and +a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the +scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the +black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the +middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet +stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the +other, as accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together are +to be sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to +make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces fast together, +and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You finish by laying +a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of a +clear, bright color. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue, +to correspond with the two half stripes. This is suitable for a walking +dress, or an evening party. + +A DRESS SHAWL.--Take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin +velvet or plush, which you please, and line it with sarcenet either +white, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk +or satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crossway. +Or you may trim it with fur, lace, or fringe. + +CASHMERE SHAWL.--You will require for the centre a piece of colored +Cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed round with a +narrow hem. You must then take four stripes all of Cashmere, or of a +shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, which +must be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitches +may appear as little as possible. The border should be three nails +broad, and of course joined point to point at the corners; and it must +be so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over each +other. The shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimes +by a colored gimp laid on over the joinings. + +A LADY'S WALKING SHAWL.--This may be made of cloth, merino, or silk; and +either a whole, or half square, at pleasure. The dimensions are one yard +and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. In order that when the +shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time, +care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides, +to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. The +trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety. + +A TRAVELLING SHAWL.--This is easily made, and is very warm and +convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover it +with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please. + +MOURNING SHAWLS.--These may be made either of half a square of black +silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or +you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, and +border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two +straight sides of the shawl. + +SHIFTS.--These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. They are +made either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the neatest method. +Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cut +off a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to +widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams; +then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at the +top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join the +narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit +for the arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back and +bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case, +the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies +hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut +either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another +method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate +from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then +let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill +gives a neat finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain +or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and +gusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. In all +cases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste the +material. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at +one time. Shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age, +are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly +the neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed +with a broad hem. + +SHIRTS.--These are generally made of linen; but calico is also made use +of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and +station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care, +make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. In cutting, you must take +a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure +the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off +the other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders, +gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars, +&c., must be fitted, and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits +the person for whom the articles are intended. + +In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front +flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off the spaces for +the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. The bosom-slit +is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The +space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes +the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, and +the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths +are so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders, +or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and the +sleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one; +and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches, +introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated +according to the taste of the maker, or the wearer. + +Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they are +larger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which is +called shirting-width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip +will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders, +wristbands, &c. + +VEILS.--These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked, +as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace: +mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet-black is to be preferred, +as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. Colored veils +look well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, put +on as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a light color is +preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is +hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest. +All veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are +frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the +wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second +string round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes from +the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool +and refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled all round the +bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. It +is advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leave +them the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to appear +unsightly and slovenly. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. + + +INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOUSE LINEN. + +BED-ROOM LINEN.--This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pillow covers, +towels, table covers, and pincushion covers. + +QUILTS.--These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance with +the purposes to which they are to be applied. They are generally made of +the outside material and the lining, (wadding or flannel being laid +between,) and stitched in diamonds or other devices. The stitches must +pass through the whole, and the edges of the quilt are to be secured by +a binding proper for the purpose. They are best done in a frame. + +BLANKETS.--These are bought ready prepared for use. It is sometimes +advisable to work over the edges at the end, which should be done with +scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of button-hole stitch. + +SHEETS.--These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and calico. Linen +sheets are in general to be preferred. The seam up the middle must be +sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may either be hemmed or seamed: +the latter is the preferable method. Sheets, and all bed-room linen, +should be marked and numbered. To add the date of the year is also an +advantage. + +PILLOW COVERS.--These are made of fine or coarse linen, and sometimes +of calico. The material should be of such a width as to correspond with +the length of the pillow. One yard and three nails, doubled and seamed +up, is the proper size. One end is seamed up, and the other hemmed with +a broad hem, and furnished with strings or buttons, as is deemed most +convenient. We think the preferable way of making pillow covers is to +procure a material of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit the +pillow. The selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and +hemmed, as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the same +manner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape slot is run +into the other. + +TOWELS.--Towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a quality adapted +to the uses to which they are applicable. They should be one yard long, +and about ten or twelve nails wide. The best are bought single, and are +fringed at the ends. Others are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape +loop attached to them, by which they can be suspended against a wall. + +DRESSING TABLE COVERS.--These may be made of any material that is proper +for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but sometimes dimity and muslin +are employed, or the table is covered with a kind of Marseilles quilting +which is prepared expressly for the purpose. Sometimes the covers are +merely hemmed round, but they look much neater if fringed, or bordered +with a moderately full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All +depends upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance in +accordance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially +regarded. + +PINCUSHION COVERS.--A large pincushion, having two covers belonging to +it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are merely a bag into +which the cushion is slipped. They may be either worked or plain, and +should have small tassels at each corner, and a frill or fringe all +round. + +TABLE LINEN.--This department of plain needlework comprises table +cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins. + +TABLE CLOTHS.--These may be purchased either singly or cut from the +piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as neatly as +possible. + +DINNER NAPKINS.--These are of various materials; if cut from the piece, +they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table cloths. Large and +small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are made in the same manner. +The hemming of all these should be extremely neat. It is a pretty and +light employment for very young ladies; and in this way habits of +neatness and usefulness may be formed, which will be found very +beneficial in after life. + +PANTRY LINEN.--In this department you will have to prepare pantry +cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass, and lamp +cloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a strong and +durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look neat and are +useful. They are generally made of huckaback of moderate fineness; but +some ladies prefer making them of a coarser kind of damask. The plate +basket cloth is a kind of bag, which is put into the plate basket to +prevent the side from becoming greased or discolored. They are made of +linen, which is well fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape +of the bottom of the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to +hang over the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a +slit for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be +made of fine soft linen, or diaper; and the cloths used in cleaning +lamps, &c., must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are +to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends; or +if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Nothing +looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which are for +domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be employed by +the more affluent, in making up those articles and a suitable +remuneration be given them. They would thus become more sensible of the +value of time, and would contract habits of industry, which would be of +essential service to them in the more advanced stages of their progress +through life. A fair price paid for work done, either by a child or an +adult, is far preferable to what is called charity. It at once promotes +industry, and encourages a spirit of honest independence, which is far +removed from unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneaking +servility. Benevolence is the peculiar glory of woman; and we hope that +all our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence will +seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of +the comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts and +talents, with which Providence may have endowed them. + +HOUSEMAID AND KITCHEN LINEN.--The next subject to which the attention of +the votress of plain needlework ought to be directed, is the preparation +of housemaid and kitchen linen. On these subjects, a very few general +observations will be all that is necessary. In the housemaid's +department, paint cloths, old and soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fine +and soft, are to be provided. To these must be added, dusters, flannels +for scouring, and chamber bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind +and color different from any thing else. All these must be neatly hemmed +and run, or seamed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed family +should bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy +appearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be provided, of +two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in which case only +one seam will be required; or of two breadths, which makes the bag more +suitable for large articles of clothing. These bags are to seamed up +neatly at the bottom, and to have strings which will draw, run in at the +top. The best material is canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. In +the kitchen department, you will require both table and dresser cloths; +which should be made as neat as possible. Long towels, of good linen, +and of a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers; they are +generally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. They +should be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends should be secured +strongly and neatly together. If the selvage is bad, the best way is to +hem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea cloths, and knife cloths, may be +made of any suitable material; but in all cases let the edges be turned +down, and neatly sewed or overcast. + +PUDDING CLOTH.--This should be made of coarse linen, neatly hemmed +round, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked. + +JELLY BAG.--This is made of a half square, doubled so as to still form a +half square. The top must be hemmed, and be furnished with three loops, +by which it is to be suspended from the frame when in use. + +Some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise be +introduced, are to be found in the concluding chapter. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. + + +MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS. + +BINDING.--Various kinds of work have binding set on to them in +preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone stitch. +Flannel is generally bound; sometimes with a thin tape, made for that +purpose, and called "flannel binding." It is also common to bind flannel +with sarcenet ribbon. The binding is so put on, as to show but little +over the edge on the right side, where it is hemmed down neatly; on the +other side, it is run on with small stitches. + +BRAIDING.--Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of +purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out of +the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less +perceived. + +MARKING.--It is of essential importance that cloths should be marked and +numbered. This is often done with ink, but as some persons like to mark +with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two threads are to be taken +each way of the cloth, and the needle must be passed three ways, in +order that the stitch may be complete. The first is aslant from the +person, toward the right hand; the second is downward, toward you: and +the third is the reverse of the first, that is, aslant from you toward +the left hand. The needle is to be brought out at the corner of the +stitch, nearest to that you are about to make. The shapes of the letters +or figures can be learnt from an inspection of any common sampler. + +PIPING.--This is much used in ornamenting children's and other dresses. +It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, in a stripe of +silk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly as possible. + +PLAITING.--The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place them, +one against another. In double plaiting they lie both ways, and meet in +the middle. + +TUCKS.--These require to be made even. You should have the breadth of +the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on a card. They look +the best run on with small and regular stitches. You must be careful to +take a back-stitch constantly, as you proceed. + +MAKING BUTTONS.--Cover the wire with a piece of calico, or other +material of the proper size; turn in the corners neatly, and work round +the wire in button-hole stitch; work the centre like a star. + +Some may think that we have been too minute; but we were desirous to +omit nothing that could be generally useful; and we have had regard also +to those ladies who, having been under no necessity of practising plain +needlework in their earlier years, are desirous of preparing articles +for their humbler fellow creatures, or by the sale of which, they +procure more ample supplies for the funds of charity. We have good +reason to believe, that many well-disposed persons would be glad, in +this way, to aid the cause of humanity--and to devote a portion of their +leisure hours to the augmenting of the resources of benevolence--but +they are destitute of the practical experience necessary to enable them +to do so. To all such, we hope our little manual will be an acceptable +offering, and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means and +talents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of +the wise man, "There is that scattereth and yet increaseth." + + +DIAGRAM. + + ___________________________________________________ + | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 21 | 22 | 23 | 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 35 | 36 | 37 | 38 | 39 | 40 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 41 | 42 | 43 | 44 | 45 | 46 | 47 | 48 | 49 | 50 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 51 | 52 | 53 | 54 | 55 | 56 | 57 | 58 | 59 | 60 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 61 | 62 | 63 | 64 | 65 | 66 | 67 | 68 | 69 | 70 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 71 | 72 | 73 | 74 | 75 | 76 | 77 | 78 | 79 | 80 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 81 | 82 | 83 | 84 | 85 | 86 | 87 | 88 | 89 | 90 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + | 91 | 92 | 93 | 94 | 95 | 96 | 97 | 98 | 99 |100 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + |101 |102 |103 |104 |105 |106 |107 |108 |109 |110 | + |----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----+----| + |111 |112 |113 |114 |115 |116 |117 |118 |119 |120 | + --------------------------------------------------- + +In order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work as easy +of acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following diagram; any lady +will thus be able to form the various stitches, by simply taking a piece +of canvas, and counting the corresponding number of threads, necessary +to form a square like the diagram; she will perceive the lines +represent the threads of the canvas, the squares numbered being the +holes formed by the intersection of the threads; and following the +directions given in the accompanying chapter, she will soon be able to +work any patterns here exhibited, and such new ones as her inventive +genius may lead her to design. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + + +EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. + +The Art of Fancy Needlework is closely allied to the sister ones of +Painting and Design; and appears to have been well understood amongst +the most polished nations of antiquity. We know that the art was +practised with considerable success, by the Babylonians, Egyptians, +Persians, and Arabians, as well as by the Greeks and Romans. The Jews +brought the art of needlework with them, out of Egypt, as we learn from +the directions for building the Tabernacle, and preparing the holy +garments; and Sidon is celebrated for the rich wares of broidered +cloths, in which part of her extensive traffic consisted. In more modern +times, we find the fair hands of the ladies of Europe employed in +depicting the events of history, in tapestry, of which the much +celebrated Bayeux tapestry--supposed to have been wrought by Matilda, +the beloved wife of William the Norman--detailing the various +occurrences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to the +fatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high rank +employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to the +reformation; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that in those +ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the temples, and +the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus become associated with +the sanctifying influences of religion and manly virtue, it has +flourished most.[64-*] Queen Adelicia, wife of Henry I.; Ann, queen of +France; Catherine, of Aragon; Lady Jane Grey; Mary Queen of Scots; and +Queen Elizabeth, all excelled in this delightful art. At the +Reformation, or soon after that event, needlework began sensibly to +decline, and continued to do so, until the commencement of the present +century. At that time, a new and elevated development of mind began to +appear, which was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every +department of arts and sciences. This revival of the fine arts, like the +mental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, was often +in extremely bad taste; but as the latter becomes more purified and +exalted, the former advances in improvement--mind asserts its +superiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and ornamental, a +living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. The year +1800 gave to the world, the celebrated Berlin patterns; but it was not +until a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became generally +appreciated; but now, such is the perfection attained in the cultivation +of the art of needlework, that some of its productions, for delicacy and +expression, may almost bear comparison with painting in oil. + +[Illustration] + +TENT STITCH.--Work the cross way of the canvas, bringing your needle up +through the diagram, No. 2 down 11, one stitch; up 3 down 12, up 4 down +13, and so continue to the end. This stitch is proper for grounding, and +for groups of flowers; but in the latter case, it will produce the best +effect if the flowers are done in tent stitch, and the grounding in +tent cross stitch (which is the same as tent stitch, only crossed.) + +[Illustration] + +CROSS STITCH.--Is the same as marking stitch; bring your needle up 21 +down 3, up 23 down 1, one stitch, up 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so +continue till your work is finished. All the stitches must incline to +the right, or the work will appear imperfect and unsightly. + +[Illustration] + +DOUBLE CROSS STITCH.--This is a stitch very easy of execution. Bring +your needle up No. 41, over four threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43 +down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, up 43 down 21, one stitch. Four, +six, or eight threads may be taken in depth, and two in width, according +as taste may suggest. This is an admirable stitch for large pieces of +work. Gold thread introduced between each row is a desirable addition to +its attractive beauty. + +[Illustration] + +STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH.--This is a new invention, and has a pretty +appearance. Bring your needle up No. 11 down 13, up 2 down 22, one +stitch; up 31 down 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till the +work is finished. + +[Illustration] + +DOUBLE STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH.--Bring your needle up No. 3 down 43, up 21 +down 25, up 14 down 32, up 12 down 34, one stitch. Owing to the number +of times the wool is crossed, each stitch has a very bead-like +appearance. A piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable effect. + +[Illustration] + +GOBELIN STITCH.--This truly beautiful stitch is especially calculated +for working on canvas traced with flowers, leaves, &c.; and also for +working designs, copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle up No. 2 +down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, up 4 down 23, and so on to the end of +the row. The stitches may be taken either in height or width, as may +best accord with the taste, or with the subject represented. + +[Illustration] + +BASKET STITCH.--This is the same as Irish stitch, but the arrangement is +different. Work three stitches over two threads; these are called short +stitches; and then the long ones are formed by working three over six +threads, the centre of which are the two on which the short stitches +were worked. Thus you must continue the short and long stitches +alternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the long +stitches must come under the short ones; and this diversity must be kept +up until all the rows are completed. To finish the pattern, you have +only to run a loose film of wool under the long stitches on each of the +short ones, and the task is done. + +[Illustration] + +IRISH STITCH.--This is the production of an Irish lady of high rank. +Bring your needle up No. 1 over four threads down 41, one stitch back +two threads, up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line with 41) +down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down +41, continuing thus over the square. The spaces left between every other +stitch must be filled up with half stitches; for instance, up 81 down +101, up 83 down 103. It is also sometimes worked covering six and eight +threads of the canvas at a time, coming back three or four threads, in +the same proportion as the directions given. This stitch is proper for +grounding, when the design is worked in tent or cross stitch; and the +effect would be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same +color. It can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds and +vandykes for example, and many others which will suggest themselves to +the fair votaries of this delightful art. It looks pretty, and is easy +of execution. + +[Illustration] + +FEATHER STITCH.--This, as its name implies, has a light and feathery +appearance, and will be found proper for any work in which lightness +should predominate. You must proceed as in tent stitch, and work over +twelve threads or less, but not more; then bring your needle out one +thread below, and cross on each side of your straight stitch: you must +so continue, taking care to drop a thread in height and keeping the +bottom even with the long stitch with which you began. Thus proceed +until you have ten threads on the cross, which will make a square: of +course you must, in the same manner, form all the squares necessary to +complete the row. You can vary the pattern considerably by making the +edges irregular, which is done by lowering your slant stitches, the +first one two, and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, in +our opinion, improve the appearance of the work. You can introduce as +many shades as you please, only taking care that a proper contrast is +duly preserved. You finish by stitching up the centre of each row on a +single thread. For this purpose, silk or gold thread may be introduced +with advantage. It should be remarked, that each row must be worked the +contrary way to the one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrow +portions may meet and blend with each other. + +[Illustration] + +POINT STITCH.--To work this stitch, take four threads straight way of +the canvas, and bring the needle three steps up, and so proceed until +your point is of a sufficient depth. This stitch looks pretty, worked in +different and well contrasted shades, and may be applied to many useful +and ornamental purposes. + +[Illustration] + +QUEEN STITCH.--Work over four threads in height and two in width, +crossing from right to left, and back again. Finish each row by a stitch +across, between them, taking a thread of each, and, of course, working +upon two threads. This is a very neat stitch. + +[Illustration] + +QUEEN'S VANDYKE.--This is supposed to be the invention of Princess +Clementina, one of the daughters, we believe of a king of France. Take +twelve threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the length and breadth +are in conformity. It can be introduced into a variety of work, and +looks well. + +[Illustration] + +SINGLE PLAIT STITCH.--Pass the needle across the canvas through two +threads, from right to left; you then cross four threads downward, and +pass the needle as before; then cross upward over two threads aslant, +and again pass over four threads, always working downward, and passing +the needle from right to left, across two threads, until the row is +completed as far as you desire. + +[Illustration] + +DOUBLE PLAIT STITCH.--This stitch is from left to right across four +threads aslant downward, and crossed from right to left, the needle +passing out at the left, in the middle of the four threads just crossed, +and so continue working downward, until you have finished the pattern. + +VELVET STITCH.--This is a combination of cross stitch and queen stitch, +and is very ornamental when properly done. You work in plain cross +stitch three rows, then leave three threads, and again work three rows +as before; thus proceed until your canvas is covered, leaving three +threads between every triple row of cross stitch. Then across the rows +work in queen stitch with double wool; but instead of taking two +distinct threads for each stitch, you may take one thread of the +preceding stitch; this will give an added thickness to your work. It +will be advisable to work the wool over slips of card or parchment, as +doing so will make it better to cut. If you work it in squares, they +should not be larger than seventeen stitches; and to look well, they +must each be placed the contrary way to the other. + +ALGERINE WORK.--This work much resembles a Venetian carpet, but is +finer; it looks best done in very small patterns. It is worked over +cotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners; the stitches are +over three threads. Your work as in raised work, putting the colors in +as you come to them, and counting three stitches in width, as one stitch +when you are working Berlin pattern. The paper canvas is No. 45 and the +cord No. 00. It is proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work. + +TO FILL UP CORNERS.--Work in any stitch you prefer and shade in +accordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental borders, &c., +there is much room for the development of taste and judgment. In all +that, you undertake, it will be well for you to recollect, that nothing +is lost by taking time to think. However trivial and unimportant our +actions may be, they should always be preceded by mature deliberation. A +habit of thought once established will remain through life, and protect +its possessor from the countless miseries of rash actions, and the +agonies of remorse and unavailable repentance. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[64-*] The presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark of +approval in the ages of chivalry. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + + +EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS. + +[Illustration] + +THE BEAUFORT STAR.--This is a beautiful pattern, and will look well, as +a centre, for any moderately-sized piece of work. Begin on the width of +the canvas, and take twelve threads, reducing at every stitch, one +thread for six rows, and thus continue decreasing and increasing +alternately, to form squares like diamonds, to the end of the row. The +next row is performed in the same manner, only you work on the long way +of the canvas. Introduce gold or silver thread between where the +stitches join, and so finish. + +[Illustration] + +CHESS PATTERN.--Work a square in cross stitch, with three stitches, +making three of a dark shade and six of white, working as many squares +as you require, and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by cross +stitch, which you must fill up with Irish stitch, working across the +canvas. You can employ any color that will harmonize well with the cross +stitch; and to complete the pattern, you must work a single stitch +across each square, in Irish stitch. + +DICE PATTERN.--This is formed by working rows of eight stitches, in any +color you please. You must here have four shades, and work two stitches +in each shade. Commence a stitch, over ten threads, and drop one each +time, until you have taken eight stitches; the intermediate spaces are +for the ground, which must contrast with the pattern; and the +introduction of a little gold or silver thread, would be an improvement. + +[Illustration] + +DOUBLE DIAMOND, IN LONG STITCH.--This pattern, when it is worked in two +colors strongly contrasted, and the diamonds composed of beads, is +exceedingly beautiful. The shades of scarlet and blue, on a white or +black ground, produce the most agreeable effect. + +[Illustration] + +GERMAN PATTERN.--There is a Gothic grandeur and sobriety about this +pattern which gives to it a noble and grave aspect. It is worked in +Irish stitch, six threads straight down the second row, falling about +four stitches below the first; the third, the same below the second; the +fourth and fifth the same number below the third; the next three the +same; and then six in the same proportion. You then increase, and so +render the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of a +Gothic column reversed; and the centre should be so disposed as to +produce the best effect: those for the first and last row must be of the +same tint; and the same rule applies to all the rest. A lady can, of +course, choose her own colors; but care must be had to blend the +alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a natural harmony. + +[Illustration] + +IRISH DIAMOND.--This is beautiful, and is very easy of execution. +Commence with two threads, and increase to fourteen, working across the +canvas, and increasing one thread each way; then decrease to two in the +same manner; and so proceed, until the row is completed. Begin the next +row two threads down the canvas, and place a gold or steel bead in the +centre of each diamond. Finish with a bordering of gold twist, or mother +of pearl. + +[Illustration] + +LACE.--This is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of execution. +The recognized material is a black Chantilly silk. It is mostly worked +from Berlin patterns, and may be done either in cross stitch, or in +straight stitch pattern: the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool. +You may imitate a pearl border, by taking two threads directly behind +the border. It is used for sofa pillows, &c., to which it forms a very +pretty termination indeed. + +HEART PATTERN.--This pattern looks well. Pass the wool over ten threads +in the centre, then make four additional stitches of ten threads, +dropping one each time from the top, and taking one up at the bottom; +then take the sixth stitch, dropping a thread at the top as before, but +keeping the bottom even with the fifth stitch; your seventh stitch must +be in six threads, decreasing two both at the top and bottom; and your +last will be on two threads, worked in the same manner: then proceed to +form the other half of the pattern. The hearts may be worked in various +shades of the same color, and the space between them is to filled up +with a diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl. + +[Illustration] + +PRINCESS ROYAL.--Work this in rows of stitches over four and two threads +alternately, leaving one thread between each stitch: begin the next row +two threads down, with a stitch over two threads, and proceed as before. +Work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in the vacancies with +gold or pearl beads. + +ROMAN PATTERN.--The material to be used, in working the pattern, is +purse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin or tent stitch. +The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the same color; the +centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, then the next, and +lastly the darkest to form a broad outline. This kind of work is done +quickly, and presents a rich appearance. + +[Illustration] + +RUSSIAN PATTERN.--This is worked in rows across the canvas, in stitches +of irregular lengths, and has a pleasing effect. Pass the first stitch +over sixteen threads, the second over twelve, the third over sixteen, +and so proceed to the seventh row, which is the centre. Pass the stitch +over eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six rows; leave a space +of four threads, and commence as at first. Form the second row in the +same manner, leaving four threads between the longest stitches in each +row: the rows may be worked in any number of shades, taking care to +preserve uniformity, and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond, +worked in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color; or it +may be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the monotonous +appearance of the pattern. It will be best to begin and finish each row +with a half diamond. + +[Illustration] + +VICTORIA PATTERN.--Pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch over six +threads, the next over five, and so proceed to the corner, which will be +on one thread; the other side must be done in a different shade, but the +same color, and the shades of each must be turned alternately the +opposite way. The corner stitch should be of some brilliant colored +silk, if not of gold thread: the top of one square will be the bottom of +another, and you work the three stitches between the corners in black or +dark wool. The squares must be filled in with long stitch, working from +corner to corner, across the canvas. + +WAVE PATTERN.--These are extremely beautiful, when worked in four or +five shades. They are done in Irish stitch, and the rows must be worked +close together, the wool is passed over six threads, and the rows +dropped a few threads below each other, so as to form a wave. The +pattern may be varied almost infinitely; the following forms a beautiful +specimen: work six rows of any length you choose, dropping one stitch at +the top and adding one to the bottom of each row; then proceed upwards, +for six rows, and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventh +row forming the centre; then work nine rows, of which the first, third, +fifth seventh, and ninth, must be level with the second row of the +pointed wave; and the second, fourth, sixth, and eight, must be on a +level with the first and last rows, while the first, third, fifth, +seventh, and ninth, must drop two stitches, so as to produce an +irregular edge; then work a pointed wave, as before, and the pattern is +complete. + +[Illustration] + +WINDSOR PATTERN.--In working this pattern, you must count eight threads +down the canvas, and then increase one each way, until you have twelve, +so as to form a diamond of six sides. The second row must be begun with +twelve threads, so as to join the longest stitch in the former row. When +each row is finished, the intersectional diamonds must be filled in; +which may be done either in silk or gold thread, and has an extremely +neat appearance. + + +SUGGESTIONS AS TO PATTERNS. + +For bottle-stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are very +beautiful. The materials proper for working them, are silk and wool, +with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread or twist. For +foundations, you may use either velvet or silk canvas. + +Small sprigs are pretty, for work that is not too large; chenille is +proper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in silk; a +few gold beads add to the effect. + +For large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, and produce +a good impression on the eye; the outline is to be traced in brilliant +silk, and for the centre employ two shades of the same color, working +half in each shade; the medallion should be placed upon a white field, +and the whole grounded in a dark color, which harmonizes well with the +design of the pattern. + +Bags may be worked in a variety of ways, to suit taste and convenience. +The border is often made to resemble black lace, and when properly +executed, looks extremely well. The parts filled up, should be worked in +black floss or black wool. Leaves may be worked with gold twist, or +beads may be employed. The grounding should be in fine twisted silk: any +color may be used. In other cases, white wool, white silk, silver and +glass beads, and several other materials are in requisition; so that +here is ample scope for classification and arrangement. A mourning bag +looks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, and +ornamented with black glass and silver beads, disposed in a tasteful and +ornamental style. Sometimes a bag is worked as a shield of four squares; +in such a case, two squares should be worked in feather stitch, and the +others in any stitch that will form a pleasing contrast: the border +should be a simple, but elegant lace pattern. + +For braces and bracelets, any small border pattern may be adopted. They +should be worked in two colors, highly contrasted, for bracelets: gold +twist round the edge is a great addition. + +These suggestions in reference to patterns, might have been greatly +extended; but we wish every young lady to draw upon the resources of her +own mind, and to think for herself. To one, who is desirous to excel, we +have said enough; a little thought will enable her to apply the general +principles, here laid down, to any particular case; and, without the +employment of the thinking faculty, the most minute instructions, in +this or any other art, would fail in producing their intended effects. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + + +INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY. + +EMBROIDERY WITH SILK.--The materials used as foundations, are various, +embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet; and the silk employed in +working is purse silk, deckers, half twist, and floss; but floss is most +in request. + +Embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot be done well +on the hand, except in very small pieces. The same careful attention to +shades, before recommended, is necessary here; for small flowers two or +three shades are sufficient; but in roses and others, that are large, +five shades are in general required; the darker shades should be worked +into the centre of the flower, (and it is often advisable to work them +in French knots,)[79-*] and thence proceed with the lighter, until you +come to the lightest, which forms the outline. The pattern must be +correctly drawn upon the material, and in working leaves you must begin +with the points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with a +shade more dark: you may soften the blending, by working each shade up, +between the stitches of the preceding shade. Three, or at most four +shades, are sufficient for the leaves: the introduction of more would +injure the effect. + +CHENILLE EMBROIDERY.--Is very beautiful for screens, &c., but must not +be used for any work that is liable to pressure. Choose a needle as +large as can be conveniently used, and be careful not to have the +lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to get rough in the working. +For flowers, it is necessary that the shades should not be too near. The +chenille must pass through the material freely, so as not to draw it. It +looks well done in velvet, with occasional introductions of gold and +silver thread. + +RAISED EMBROIDERY.--Draw the pattern on the material as before. Work the +flowers, &c., to the height required, in soft cotton, taking care that +the centre is much higher than the edges. A careful study of nature is +indispensable to the attainment of excellence in this kind of work. +Pursue the same method with your colors, as in flat embroidery, only +working them much closer. The most striking effect is produced when the +flowers or animals are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. Much in +this, as in every department of this charming art, must depend upon the +taste and judgment--correct or otherwise--of the fair artist. A servile +copyist will never attain to excellence. + +EMBROIDERY IN WOOL.--This is proper for any large piece of work. The +rules for shading embroidery with silk apply here; only the work must +not be quite so thick on the material; care must also be taken to bring +the wool through on the right side, as near as possible to where it +passes through, in order that none may appear on the wrong side, which +would occasion much trouble in drawing it, even when removed from the +frame. When finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to damp +the back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron on +the wrong side. This kind of work is appropriate for the ornamenting of +various articles of dress, on which, when judiciously placed, it has a +pleasing effect. + +PATTERNS.--This is a part of fancy needlework to which too much +attention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. We want to see +native genius developed, and we are convinced that many a fair one could +increase our stock of patterns, with new and surprising conceptions, if +she could but be induced to make the trial. To draw patterns for +embroidery or braid work, get a piece of cartridge paper, and having +drawn out the design, trace it off upon tissue paper, or which is +better, a tracing paper, properly prepared; after which you will find it +easy to pierce it through with a piercer, taking care not to run one +hole into another. Lay the paper so prepared upon the material which you +intend to work, and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go +through the holes; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the +material be dark, take a camel's hair pencil, and paint the marks with a +mixture of white lead and gum water; or if you prefer it, you can trace +the marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead pencil, but the other +methods are preferable. A little practice and perseverance will enable +you to became tolerably proficient in this department, and confer upon +you the further advantage of aiding you in acquiring those habits of +untiring diligence, which are so essential to the attainment of any +object. Ever recollect, that anything worth doing at all, is worth doing +well. + + +FOOTNOTES: + +[79-*] This applies especially to the working of dahlias: begin with the +centre knot and work round it as many as are required. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + + +PREPARATION OF FRAMES. + +This is a subject which must be carefully attended to, or much +unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence. + +TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CROSS STITCH.--The canvas must be hemmed neatly +round: then count your threads, and place the centre one exactly in the +middle of the frame. The canvas must be drawn as tight as the screws or +pegs will permit; and if too long, should be wrapped round the poles +with tissue paper, to keep it from dust and the friction of the arms, as +that is essential to the beauty of the work. It must in all cases be +rolled _under_, or it will occasion much trouble in the working. When +placed quite even in the frame, secure by fine twine passed over the +stretchers, and through the canvas very closely; both sides must be +tightened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will be +spoiled. + +TO DRESS A FRAME FOR CLOTH WORK.--Stretch your cloth in the frame as +tight as possible, the right side uppermost. + +The canvas on which you intend to work, must be of a size to correspond +with the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the centre of the cloth, +to which it is to be secured as smooth as possible. When the work is +finished the canvas must be cut, and the threads drawn out, first one +and then the other. It is necessary to be especially careful in working, +not to split the threads, as that would prevent them drawing, and would +spoil the appearance of the work. In all cases, it is advisable to place +the cloth so as that the nap may go downward. In working bouquets of +flowers, this rule is indispensable. + +The patterns for cloth work should be light and open. It looks well for +sofas, arm chairs, &c., but is by no means so durable as work done with +wool, entirely on canvas. + +TO DRESS A FRAME FOR TENT STITCH.--Prepare the frame, and brace the +canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclining the +contrary way to that in which you slant your stitch. This is necessary, +as tent stitch always twists a little. This method will cause the work, +when taken out of the frame, to appear tolerably straight. Should it +after all be crooked, it should be nailed at the edges to a square +board, and the work may then be pulled even by the threads so as to +become perfectly straight. The back of the work should then be slightly +brushed over with isinglass water, taking care not to let the liquid +come through to the right side. A sheet of paper must be placed between +the work and the board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid upon +it, and the whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or the +brilliancy of the colors will be destroyed. + +Some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly improper, +and should never be resorted to. + + +INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING. + +ARMORIAL BEARINGS.--Work the arms and crest in silk, as brilliancy is +the thing here principally required. It will be proper that the scroll +should be worked in wool. The contrast will have a pleasing effect. + +APPLIQUE.--This is a very beautiful kind of work. The material may be +either silk, or cloth, or any other fabric which may be preferred. Upon +this foundation, pieces of satin, velvet, &c., are to be carefully +tacked down; the pattern, leaves, flowers, &c., must then be drawn, both +on the foundation, and the materials of which they are to be formed; +after which, they must be cut out and sewed on in the neatest manner +possible. They are then to be braided with their own colors round the +edges; you must also braid the tendrils and the veins of leaves; work +the centre of leaves in a long stitch, and the kind of silk called purse +silk, and after braiding the centre of flowers--if single--work over +them with French knots, made by twining the silk twice round the needle, +and passing it through the material. This kind of work, as covers for +tables chairs, &c., is very elegant, and has a good effect. + +BEAD WORK.--Use the canvas called bolting; and work two threads each way +on the slant, with china silk, taking especial care that the beads are +all turned the same way, that the whole may appear uniform. Work the +pattern with thick beads and ground with transparent ones. You must, in +this kind of work, have as few shades as possible. + +BRAID WORK.--Trace the pattern in the material, and proceed with the +various shades, from the outline or lightest, to the darkest, till the +whole is completed. In this work only two shades are for leaves, and +three for flowers; make the points as sharp as possible, and in turning +the points, work one stitch up close to the point where you turn the +braid, and another immediately afterwards to keep it in its place. Vein +the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk use gold braid in finishing as +taste may direct; and in fastening draw the braid through the material. +The best instrument for this purpose is a chenille needle. In braid work +and applique, only one stitch must be taken at a time, or else the work +will appear puckered. + +BRACES.--Work in silk canvas three inches broad, in silk or wool, in any +pattern you prefer. + +GEM, OR SET PATTERNS.--For this kind of work, ground in black or dark +wool, and work the patterns in silks, as distinct and bright as +possible, and with the utmost variety of colors. The beauty of these +productions of the needle, depends chiefly upon their brilliant and +gem-like appearance. + +GOBELIN.--If you work in coarse canvas, adopt the same contrast of +shades as you employ in cross stitch; if the material be fine, you must +shade as in tent stitch. + +GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS.--To ornament the dress of a father, brother, or +husband, must at all times be a pleasing employment for domestic +affection. For dress waistcoats, embroider satin, either in the form of +a wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, or in small sprigs; for +morning, you may work in any pattern you prefer. Patterns of the +Caledonian Clans are now much admired. + +LANDSCAPES.--These may be rendered extremely beautiful, if properly +managed. The trees in front should be much lighter than those seen in +the back ground, and great care should be taken to prevent the latter +having too blue a cast, as this renders them unharmonious, when +contrasted with the sky. Represent water by shades of a blue grey: the +sky should be a serene blue, with much closeness, and mingled with +clouds composed of varying tints of a white and a yellow drab. If +mountains are seen in the distance, they should be of a grey lavender +tint, and some living animal should, in nearly all cases, be +introduced. The presence of a cow, sheep, &c., gives life and animation +to the view. + +MOSAIC WORK.--If you work with wool, cut it into short lengths, and +untwist it. No wool can be procured sufficiently fine for this kind of +work. If you work with silk, the finest floss is preferable to any +other: split silk would be found extremely inconvenient, and the work +would not look so well. Care must be taken that the shades are very +distinct, or they will appear jumbled and unsightly. It will also be +necessary to fasten off at every shade, and not to pass from one flower +to another, as in that case the fastenings would become visible on the +right side, and thus impair the beauty of the performance. In working a +landscape, some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, to +avoid the trouble of working one. As a compliance with such advice would +tend to foster habits of idleness, and thus weaken the sense of moral +propriety which should in all we do be ever present with us, as well as +destroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which flies from every +species of deception, we hope the fair votaries of this delightful art +will reject the suggestion with the contempt it merits. + +PATTERNS ON CANVAS.--Employ for canvas four or five shades, beginning +with the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter tint, till you +come to the lightest, following the distinction of contrast exhibited by +the Berlin patterns. If you wish to introduce silk into any part, it +will be best to work it in last. Be careful to avoid taking odd threads, +if you work the pattern in cross stitch. + +PERFORATED CARD.--The needle must not be too large, or the holes will be +liable to get broken. The smaller ones must be worked in silk: the +larger patterns may be done in either silk or wool. Sometimes the +flowers are worked in Chenille, and the leaves in silk; this gives to +card cases, &c., a beautiful and highly ornamental appearance. + +RUG BORDERING.--Use a wooden mesh, grooved, an inch and a quarter in +width; pass the material over the mesh, and work in cross stitch: the +material to be used, is what is called slacks, (a kind of worsted,) +which must be six or eight times doubled. You must leave three threads +between each row, and not more than eight rows are required to complete +the border. + +WIRE WORK.--For this work choose shades of a light in preference to a +dark color, and work with silk. If you employ both silk and wool, silk +must be used for the lighter shades, or the beauty of the work will be +impaired. Sponge the whole before commencing work. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + + +APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES. + +LACE.--This imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage bags, +sofa pillows, &c.; and also for ladies' work bags, to which it is both +ornamental and becoming. + +PRINCESS ROYAL.--This pattern is especially proper for bags or small +stands. + +POINT STITCH, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, as well +as for bags of a considerable size. + +BASKET STITCH.--This kind of work is very elegant for flower, fruit, or +work baskets; or any other of an ornamental character. + +GERMAN PATTERN, is well adapted for slippers, as, when worked, it is +found to be very durable, and its appearance peculiarly fits it for this +application. + +EMBROIDERY, is of almost universal application: that with chenille is +much used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is productive of a most +pleasing effect. Embroidery in wool is also much in use for the same +purpose. + +RUG BORDERINGS.--These may be considered as articles of domestic +economy; and besides the pleasure which arises from seeing the parlor, +or the side-board, adorned with the elegant productions of a daughter, +or a sister, this kind of work is at all times, when properly executed, +superior, considered merely as work, far superior to any similar +productions emanating from the loom. + +GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS AND BRACES.--By being able to perform this kind +of work, it is at all times in the power of the fair sex to offer an +elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, and thus to increase +the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. This reason is amply +sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen to cultivate this +department of fancy needlework. + +WIRE WORK.--This is a lovely material for baskets, and various kinds of +ornamental fabrications. + +WORKING FIGURES.--This delightful application of the needle may be +rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting purposes. By it +the sister arts of painting and design may be materially promoted: the +scenes of former days may be delineated on the historic canvas, or the +portrait of a departed friend may be placed before us, as when blooming +in all the living lustre of angelic loveliness. Let this portion of the +art be especially and assiduously cultivated. + +ARMORIAL BEARINGS.--These are proper for screens, and may be made of a +high moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the young, an ardent +desire to become acquainted with the events of history, and with the +actions and principles of former times. + +MOSAIC WORK, AND PERFORATED CARD.--These are used for note books, +ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and a variety of other +useful purposes. + +BRAID WORK.--The application of this kind of work is well known, and is +so general, that no particular cases need be pointed out. + +APPLIQUE.--This is very elegant, as employed for table covers, sofas, +chairs, &c.; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever it is +applied it has a pleasing effect. + +STAR PATTERNS, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, or any piece +of work that is small. + +MEDALLION PATTERN.--Where the work is coarse, or large, these may be +introduced with good effect; but especial attention must be paid to a +proper combination of colors and shades. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +FANCY NEEDLEWORK. + + +SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS. + +INSTRUCTIONS IN GROUNDING.--Care must be taken in grounding to make the +effect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you ground in dark colors, +your pattern should be worked in shades of a light and lively tint; for +those in which dark shades predominate, a light ground is indispensible. +The canvas for white grounding should be white; and if for dark +grounding, a striped fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimes +appear through the wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub +over the surface with a little Indian ink water previous to commencing +working, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the +edges of the work, and it must be quite dry before you commence +grounding. A camel's hair brush is best for this purpose. In working in +cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working from right to +left across the canvas, and then back again. This is preferable to +crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an improved appearance to +the work. + +If you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance will be +uneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases begin to go round from +the centre, and work outwards, taking care to fasten off as you finish +with each needleful, which should not be too long, as the wool is +liable to get rough and soiled. It is also necessary to have them +irregular as to length, to prevent the fastenings coming together which +they will be apt to do if this suggestion is not attended to. For +working in tent stitch with single wool, the canvas must not have more +than fourteen threads to an inch; for cross stitch you must have a +canvas not coarser than twenty-two threads to an inch; for the former, +you will for every two and a half square inches require a skein of wool; +in the latter case a skein will cover two inches. Following this +calculation, you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for +any piece of work; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at the +same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching the shades. +An attention to these instructions will soon make you a proficient in +the grounding department of the art. + +WORKING FIGURES.--This is at once one of the most difficult, and at the +same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the votary of fancy +needlework will have to perform; they generally produce the best effect +when worked in wool and silk, with a judicious mixture of gold and +silver beads. The hair and drapery should be worked in cross stitch; and +the face, neck, and hands, in tent stitch; working four of the latter +for one of the former. To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is +no easy task; but it _must_ be carefully attended to, as almost the +whole beauty of the work depends upon it. The shades in these parts of +the figure must be extremely close; indeed upon shading of the features +the perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also +demands considerable care: the shades must be very distinct, +particularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the back +ground should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper prominence +may be given to the figure: this object will be aided considerably by +working in the lighter shades in silk: any representation of water or of +painted glass, should be worked in the same material. The intention of +the fair worker should be to give to her performance as near an +approximation to oil painting as possible. + +RAISED WORK.--This should be done with German wool, as it more nearly +resembles velvet. For working flowers, you must have two meshes, +one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pattern must be worked in +gobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one mesh out, until you have +completed the next row. You work across the flowers; and in order to +save an unnecessary waste of time, as well as to facilitate your work, +it will be best to thread as many needles as you require shades, taking +care not to get the various shades mixed together. This is more needful, +as you cannot, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing +another. When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, with +a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower into +its proper form. + +For working animals or birds, you must have three meshes; the first, one +quarter; and the third, one seventh of an inch: the second must be a +medium between these two. You will require the largest for the breast, +and the upper parts of the wings. Cross stitch may be employed in +working the beak, or feet, and is indeed preferable. You may work +leaves, either in cross stitch or in gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy +may direct. You may work either from a drawing on canvas, or from Berlin +pattern; but the latter is decidedly to be preferred. + +WORKING BERLIN PATTERNS.--For these patterns, it will be necessary to +work in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, according as you +may desire the work to be a larger, or of the same size as the pattern: +and, it must be borne in mind, that all the patterns are drawn for tent +stitch, so that if you work in cross stitch, and wish to have it the +same size as the pattern, you must count twenty stitches on the canvas, +for ten on the paper. The choice of colors, for these patterns, is a +matter of essential importance as the transition from shade to shade, if +sudden and abrupt, will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. A +natural succession of tints, softly blending into each other, can, alone +produce the desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades will +be required: in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost +indispensible; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre, +then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from it, +and the next four to the lightest tint; the whole, to be so managed, as +to give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which its position +in the design demands. For small flowers, so many shades are rarely +necessary. The two darkest shades should be strong, the others soft; +this secures sufficiency of contrast, without impairing that harmony of +tints, which is so indispensible. You must recollect, that for work done +in tent stitch, a greater contrast of shade is required, than for that +done in cross stitch. This remark should never be lost sight of. A +proper attention to the shading of leaves, is indispensible; the kinds +of green required, for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose; +Saxon green, for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; French green, for +iris, marigold, narcissus, &c.; and for poppies, tulips, &c.; a willow +green, which has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally; and +for leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper +to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of light: +the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the least; the +next two; then the fourth shade, two darker than the third; and the +fifth, two darker than the fourth: take care that the veins of leaves be +distinctly marked, and those which are in the shade should be darker +than those upon which the light falls; and if of a color having a bluish +tint, a few worked in olive green will have a fine effect. The stalks of +roses, &c., should be worked in olive brown or a very dark green. White +flowers are often spoilt, by being worked of too dark a shade; if you do +not work with silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, by +using Moravian cotton and white wool; these combined with three shades +of light stone color--the second two shades darker than the first, and +the third darker than the second, in the same proportions--will produce +a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, by leaves of the +proper tints, will have a most beautiful appearance. The lighter parts +of all flowers, in Berlin patterns, may be worked in silk; and in many +cases that is a decided improvement; but it should never be introduced +in the leaves; here it would be out of place. We again repeat, beware of +servile copying: try to engage your own judgment in this work, and, +remember, that to become used to think and to discriminate, is one of +the most valuable acquisitions that a young lady can attain. + +We have now, we trust, placed before the young student of fancy +needlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to the art, +as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is bestowed +upon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful employment. With +one or two additional remarks, we will conclude this portion of our +labors. The young votary of the needle must recollect that, if she +allows her fondness for this accomplishment to draw off her attention +from the more serious or useful business of life, she will act decidedly +wrong and had far better never learn it at all. Another thing to be +especially guarded against, is, not to devote too much time to this, or +any other engagement, at once; the mind and body are both injured, to a +serious extent, by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it never +for a moment be forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, if +you wish to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. Again, +take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your +pursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship, +benevolence, or duty. The young lady who can forget her moral and +domestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, gives but +little promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages of life. + +Let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements. + +Cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in paper, +writing the color on each, and numbering them according to their shades, +1, 2, 3, &c., beginning with the darkest. + +Dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble or +inconvenience, and use every possible care to prevent your work from +being spoiled in the performance. + +We advise every young lady to pay particular attention to painting and +design; and to render every accomplishment subservient to some high and +moral development of the heart, and of the character. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +KNITTING. + + +EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. + +Before entering upon the immediate subject of this chapter, we wish to +make a few remarks; which, we trust, will be acceptable to our fair +readers. + +The art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the Spanish; +and would doubtless form, in connection with needlework, an agreeable +relaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvarying mechanical movements +which made up, for the most part, the lives of the ancient female +nobility of that peninsula. The Scotch also lay claim to the invention, +but we think upon no sufficient authority. Knitted silk-hose were first +worn in England by Henry VIII., and we are told that a present of a pair +of long knitted silk stockings, of Spanish manufacture, was presented to +the young prince (Edward VI.), by Sir Thomas Gresham, and was graciously +received, as a gift of some importance. Clumsy and unsightly cloth-hose +had been previously worn: and, though we are told by Howel, that Queen +Elizabeth was presented with a pair of black _knitted_ silk stockings, +by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet her maids of honor were not +allowed to wear an article of dress, which her royal pride deemed only +suited to regal magnificence. We believe the first pair of knitted +stockings, ever made in England, were the production of one William +Rider, an apprentice, residing on London Bridge; who, having +accidentally seen a pair of knitted worsted stockings, while detained on +some business, at the house of one of the Italian merchants, made a pair +of a similar kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. The +stocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. Lee, M. A., who had been +expelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention to the statutes +of the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, were reduced to the +necessity of depending upon the skill of the latter, in the art of +knitting, for their subsistence; and as necessity is the parent of +invention, Mr. Lee, by carefully watching the motion of the needles, was +enabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking-frame; which has been the +source of much advantage to others, though there is reason to believe +the contrivance was of little service to the original proprietor. Since +its first introduction, knitting has been applied to a vast variety of +purposes, and has been improved to an extent almost beyond belief. It +has furnished to the blind, the indigent, and almost destitute Irish +cottage girl, the means, pleasure and profit at the same time. Many +ladies, including some in the rank of royalty, have employed their hours +of leisure in the fabrication of articles, the produce of which have +gone to the funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of at +least some of + + "The numerous ills that flesh is heir to;" + +and amongst those, the labors of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, upon the +estates of Lord de Vesci, in Ireland, ought not to be forgotten. + +TO CAST ON THE LOOPS OR STITCHES.--Take the material in the right hand, +and twist it round the little finger, bring it under the next two, and +pass it over the fore finger. Then take the end in the left hand, +(holding the needle in the right,) wrap it round the little finger, and +thence bring it over the thumb, and round the two fore fingers. By this +process the young learner will find that she has formed a loop: she must +then bring the needle under the lower thread of the material, and above +that which is over the fore finger of the right hand under the needle, +which must be brought down through the loop, and the thread which is in +the left hand, being drawn tight, completes the operation. This process +must be repeated as many times as there are stitches cast on. + +KNITTING STITCH.--The needle must be put through the cast-on stitch, and +the material turned over it, which is to be taken up, and the under +loop, or stitch, is to be let off. This is called plain stitch, and is +to be continued until one round is completed. + +PEARL STITCH.--Called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is formed by +knitting with the material before the needle; and instead of bringing +the needle over the upper thread, it is brought under it. + +TO RIB, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. Three plain, +and three pearled, is generally the rule. + +TO CAST OVER.--This means bringing the material round the needle, +forward. + +NARROWING.--This is to decrease the number of stitches by knitting two +together, so as to form only one loop. + +RAISING.--This is to increase the number of stitches, and is effected by +knitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip out the left +hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form a second stitch, +putting the needle under the stitch. Care must be taken to put the +thread back when the additional stitch is finished. + +TO SEAM.--Knit a pearl stitch every alternate row. + +A ROW, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the other; and +a ROUND, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or more needles. NOTE, +in casting on a stocking, there must always be an odd stitch cast on for +the seam. + +TO BRING THE THREAD FORWARD, means to pass it between the needles toward +the person of the operator. + +A LOOP STITCH, is made by passing the thread before the needle. In +knitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper place. + +A SLIP STITCH, is made by passing it from one needle to another without +knitting it. + +TO FASTEN ON.--This term refers to fastening the end of the material, +when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the work. The best +way is to place the two ends contrarywise to each other, and knit a few +stitches with both. + +TO CAST OFF.--This is done by knitting two stitches, passing the first +over the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which is to be +made secure by passing thread through it. + +WELTS, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done at the +top of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting or curling +up. + +Sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, or in a +variety of neat and fanciful patterns. Scarcely any kind of work is +susceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so many ornamental +fabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair votary of this art must be +careful neither to knit too tight or too loose. A medium, which will +soon be acquired by care and practice, is the best, and shows the +various kinds of work to the best advantage. The young lady should take +care to preserve her needles entirely free from rust, and to handle the +materials of her work with as delicate a touch as possible. + +Having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this useful +art, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most beautiful. + + +FANCY STITCHES IN KNITTING. + +BEE'S STITCH.--In knitting a purse in this stitch, you must cast the +loops on three needles, having twenty on each. The two first rows in +plain knitting. The third is thus worked. Having brought the silk in +front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you knit the next, pulling the one +you slipped over it; you knit the next, and the succeeding one is +pearled; proceed in this manner for one round. The next round you knit +plain; the next is to be executed like the third. Proceed thus in +alternate rounds, and you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted, +knitting six or eight rounds of each. + +BERLIN WIRE STITCH.--The stitches cast on must be an even number. Knit +three, four, or five plain rows. Then begin the work by taking off the +first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off two stitches together, and make +a stitch; repeat this process to the end of the row; the next row is to +be knitted plain, and so on alternately. + +This work may be done either with large pins and lamb's wool, if it be +intended for shawls, &c., or with fine needles and thread, in which case +it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, capes, collars, +and other articles of dress. If it is intended for insertion work, the +number of stitches cast on are eight, and one pattern is formed by each +four stitches. + +COMMON PLAIT.--This is employed for muffatees, coverlets, and various +other articles. You cast on the stitches in threes: the number is +unlimited. Knit one row plain, then proceed as follows. Row first, three +plain stitches and three pearled. Second row the same, taking care to +begin where the last is finished, that is, if you ended with plain +stitches, you begin with the pearled. Proceed in the same way with the +third row, and you will have a succession of squares, of inside and +outside knitting, alternately. The fourth row is to be begun with the +same kind of stitches as completed the first row; continue as before, +and the work will be in squares, like those of a chess board. This +stitch is extremely pretty. + +CHAIN STITCH.--The number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. Knit the +first two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three plain +stitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven stitches; +the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the other three +stitches plain. The next row is plain knitting, and then you proceed as +in the third row, and so on alternately, until you have completed +sixteen rows. You then knit three stitches plain, and take off the four +succeeding ones upon a spare pin. The next three stitches from behind +the pin, are to be knitted so as to miss it completely, and the material +is to be drawn so tight, as that the pins may be connected together as +closely as possible. This done you knit the four stitches of the third +pin, which completes the twist. The remaining three stitches are then to +be knitted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearling +seven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when another +twist is to be made. + +CROW'S-FOOT STITCH.--This stitch may be worked in two ways. If it be for +a shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the beginning and end of each +row. + +In the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that can be +divided by three, and you must cast on one additional for the +commencement. You knit the first row plain and then proceed according to +the following directions: First, knit a stitch. Second, make a stitch. +Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two stitches together. Fifth, put the +stitch you slipped over the two last knitted; this is to be repeated, +with the exception of the first knitted stitch, to the end of the row. +The next row is composed entirely of pearled stitches. This stitch is +neat and elegant. + +DOUBLE KNITTING.--Of this stitch there are three kinds, now in general +use. In executing them proceed as follows. Having cast on any even +number of stitches, knit a few rows in plain knitting; then, for the +double stitch, begin the row by knitting a stitch, and pass the material +in front, between the knitting pins. Then a stitch is to be taken off, +being careful to put the needle inside the loop, and to pass the +material back again. You then knit another stitch, and so proceed to the +end of the row. + +For the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even number of +stitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain; the material +being put twice over the pin. Then, as in the first kind, pass the +material between the needles; a stitch is to be slipped, and the +material passed again behind. This process is repeated in every stitch +to the end of the row. In the next row, you reverse the work, knitting +the stitches that were before slipped, and slipping the knitted ones. +The third kind is very simple, and can be done quicker than the others. +It is worked on the wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside +out; hence it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. The +number of stitches must be even, as in the previous methods. No plain +row is needed; but you commence by putting the material in front of the +pins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position. Turn +the first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till the +row is finished. + +DUTCH COMMON KNITTING.--This is the common knitting stitch, performed in +a more expeditious manner than that in general practised. The needle +filled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and the material also, +which is to be wrapped round the little finger once or twice. It passes +to the needles over the fore finger. To form the loop on the needle held +in the right hand, it is only necessary to put it into the stitch from +behind, and knit off by putting the material round the needle. + +EMBOSSED DIAMOND.--You cast on any number of stitches which can be +divided by seven. The first row is plain: for the second, pearl one +stitch, knit five, and pearl two; thus proceed, alternately, to complete +the row: for the third, knit two, pearl three, and knit four, and so +proceed. The fourth row you pearl three, knit one, and pearl six, +alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. The next row you pearl +two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the end. Next knit two, pearl +four and knit three, alternately. Next knit six, and pearl one, +successively. Reverse the next, pearling six, and knitting one. Then in +the succeeding row, knit five and pearl three, and knit four in +succession. Next knit three, pearl two, and knit five, alternately. The +succeeding row is plain. + +EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH.--You can work with any number of stitches you +choose, which can be divided by six. The first row is plain, the next +pearled throughout; the third row is plain. For the first knit four +stitches, and slip two at the end; then pearl a row, taking care to slip +the stitches that were slipped before. Next knit a row slipping the two +stitches as before. The next row is pearled still slipping the two +stitches. The succeeding two rows are knitted and pearled like the +others, and the two stitches are still to be slipped. The next row is +pearled, and you take up all the stitches; then a row is to be knitted +plain, and a row pearled, which completes the pattern. In beginning the +next pattern, you pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, so +that they shall be exactly in the centre of the previously worked +pattern; you then proceed as before. + +ELASTIC RIB.--This as its name implies, is the proper stitch for +garters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily yet +firmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, and knit one +row plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; then one +pearled, and so on alternately to the end. + +FANTAIL STITCH.--The application of this stitch is in the preparation of +mitts, gloves, &c., and sometimes it is used for purses, in which it +looks extremely pretty. The material generally employed is cotton, and +you begin by setting on any even number of stitches you require. A loop +is made, by throwing the cotton over the pin; you then knit a loop, and +make and knit alternately; each of the two last are knitted plain, and +you narrow the commencement and conclusion of each row, at the second +and third loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally cast +on. The usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen. + +FRENCH STITCH.--You set on the loops in fours, and must have two over. +The first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, and knit two +stitches together. Form a new stitch by bringing the thread in front, +and knit a stitch; the thread is again to be brought in front, and the +last stitch pearled, which completes the pattern. The next row is begun +in a similar manner, the thread is turned back, two stitches are knitted +together at the end, the thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch. + +GERMAN KNITTING.--You cast on twenty-one stitches, and proceed as +follows. First row, the material is to be passed forward, one stitch +slipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; three stitches +are then to be knitted, and two taken as one; again pass the material +forward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the same, except that when in +the first you knitted three stitches, knit one; and when one, you knit +three. For the third row, you pass the material as before, and slip one +stitch, then two are taken as one, and the slipped one is passed over +again; repeat this, except that in taking two stitches together, you +knit one, and pass the slipped one over; finish by knitting two +stitches. + +HONEYCOMB STITCH.--This is also often used for shawls. It is knitted as +follows. You knit the first stitch, and pass the other to make a loop +over the needle. Two stitches are then knitted together, and you thus +continue making the loops, and knitting two stitches together, until you +have completed the row. You knit every second row thus; the alternate +ones plain. + +HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH.--You cast on the stitches by fours, and the +material used is silk. Knit two plain stitches, and then make a large +one, by turning the silk twice over the needle; after which, knit two +stitches together, and repeat this, until you have completed the work. + +IMITATION NET-WORK STITCH.--You set on any number of stitches you +please, but you must have no odd ones. The first row is plain knitting. +The next row you commence by bringing the wool upon the first pin, and +twisting it round it by bringing it over from behind, and putting it +behind again. You are then to knit two loops together, and the pin must +be put first into the one nearest to you, and the wool is to be twisted +round the pin as before. Then again, knit two together, and so on to the +end. Each row is done in the same manner. + +KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH.--Any number of stitches you please may be cast +on, observing to have three for each pattern, and one over at each end. +The first row must be plain: then, in beginning the second, take off the +first stitch, and knit two together in pearl stitch. Next make one, by +passing the material before, and knitting one, pearl two stitches +together, and make and knit a stitch as before. Every row is the same. + +LACE WAVE STITCH.--The number of stitches must be even. The first stitch +is to be slipped; then knit one, and make one, by casting the material +over the pin. Narrow, by knitting two stitches together, and again knit +a stitch; then make one, and again narrow; and so on till you complete +the row. The next row is done plain. The third row is as follows: two +stitches knitted plain; make one stitch, and narrow two in one; then +knit one stitch; make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row +plain. For the fifth row, knit three stitches plain, and thus proceed as +in the third row. The sixth row is done plain; and the seventh one +commences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding as +before. The eighth row is plain; and the ninth is begun by knitting five +plain stitches, and proceed as above; then knit two rows plain, and the +pattern is complete. This can be continued to any length required. + +MOSS STITCH.--This is easily done. Cast on any even number of loops, and +for the first row, the first loop is slipped, the material brought in +front; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the end. The next row is +so worked, that the stitches knit in the proceeding row, must be pearled +in this. + +OPEN HEM.--The number of stitches is unlimited, but they must be capable +of being divided by four. At the beginning of each row you slip the +first stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch by putting the +cotton over the pin; knit two loops together; knit one stitch, make a +stitch, and so proceed. You must have very fine pins and sewing cotton. + +OPEN CROSS STITCH.--This is done in the following manner. Two colors are +to be employed, and the first row of each is done in pearl stitch. In +working the second row of each, the following is the order of procedure: +first, knit a stitch: second, make a stitch; third, slip one; fourth, +two are to be knitted together, and the one slipped is to be drawn over +the knitted ones; thus you proceed to the end of the row. The two next +are to be commenced with the other color; and thus you work two rows +with each color, successively. The fresh color is always to cross from +beneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the work. In +the making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and it looks well, +but, of course, requires to be bordered with some other pattern. + +ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH.--The stitches are to be set on in elevens. +Commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit two together, and +repeat the same, drawing the first loop over the second; proceed thus to +the end. Commence the second row by pearling two stitches; pass the +material over the pin twice; again pearl two stitches, and so proceed to +the end. In the next row, knit two; pass the material round the pin +twice, knit two, and so continue. Thus you proceed with alternate rows +of knitted and pearled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches made +by throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them. + +PINE APPLE STITCH.--For a bag you must cast on thirty-six loops on three +needles, and proceed thus: First row, knit one plain, raise one by +throwing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, then raise, knit two +plain, you knit the next two together, drawing the last loop over the +first; you will then have six loops. In the second row, knit the first +raised loop, then raise, knit the next one plain, then raise, knit plain +till you come to the next raising, and omit knitting the two together as +in the first row. Third row, you knit plain to the raising, and then +proceed as in the first row. You knit the fourth as the second; and so +proceed alternately, until you have twelve rows. Then in the stitches +you had previously narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead upon +each plain loop, with a thread, and again raise. Where you had +previously raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk. +In this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until you have +twelve rows as before. You then reverse, and again work as in the first +part of the pattern. + +PLAIN OPEN STITCH.--The stitches set on must be an even number. The two +first rows are plain. Then commence the third row, by knitting one +stitch; pass the material in front, and form a new stitch, by knitting +two together. This is to be repeated, until you come to the last stitch, +which must be knit. Then knit two plain rows and proceed as before. + +PORCUPINE STITCH.--This is proper for a purse, and when properly +executed, is extremely pretty. You cast on, upon each of three needles, +thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. For the next, you knit four +stitches: and, having brought the silk forward, knit one loop: this will +form the middle stitch of the pattern. Then, again bringing the silk +forward, knit fourteen stitches; after which, slip one, and leaving the +under part, knit two together, and draw the stitches, last slipped, over +it. Then knit four stitches, as at the commencement, and so proceed for +six rounds, increasing before and after each middle stitch. You knit +till within one of where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to be +slipped, and you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over +it. You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also +plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where you +are to insert a bead, by bringing it through the stitches. You next knit +a round plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on the outside of +the purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as this purse is done +the wrong side out. You are to knit, until you come within one loop of +the bead, which must be slipped, and you knit the next two together. You +are then to increase six rounds on each side of the stitch decreased as +in the proceeding pattern, which will make that the middle or bead +stitch. The material should be done in middle sized purse silk, on +needles, No. 18. + +ROUGH-CAST STITCH.--Any odd number of stitches may be cast on. Each row +is begun with a plain stitch, and the others are plain and pearled +alternately. This is very suitable for borders, as it is firm and looks +neat. + +WAVE KNITTING.--This is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks extremely +neat. Commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. Then proceed as +follows. First row, knit four loops plain, pearl one, knit nine plain, +and repeat to the end of the row, finishing with four plain loops. +Commence the second row with three pearled stitches, knit three plain, +pearl seven, repeat as before. Third row, knit two plain, pearl five, +knit five plain, repeat. Fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearl +three, repeat. Fifth row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, and +repeat to the end. This finishes the pattern. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +KNITTING. + + +EXAMPLES IN KNITTING. + +A BIROCHE.--The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool forward, slip +one, and knit two together. This elegant cushion is made up of sixteen +narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, which decrease gradually toward +the centre. It may be made in double German wool, or other material, +with No. 19 ivory or wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit two +turns; then in gold color three turns, and again two in black: this +forms the narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus: knit two +stitches, and turn; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be +continued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, until +you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You will now find +the wool has descended to the wide part of the stripe. You then again +commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, until the whole is completed. +When the last wide stripe is finished, knit it to the first narrow +stripe, and make up the biroche in any manner you please. + +A BABY'S CAP.--Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins; knit twelve rounds, +and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch: in the succeeding round +you must pearl the stitches which were left plain in the preceding ones. +Then take in eighty stitches, namely; one at every fourth, which will +form a full border; then proceed to knit the cap thus: one row plain, +the next open, then three plain, and twenty-four double knitting; again +knit three rows plain, one open, repeat the three plain rows, again +repeat the double knitting, and the plain and open rows as before; you +next proceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on +twenty-four stitches at each end of the pins; knit forty-eight rows of +double knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows +plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows; then fasten off at +top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and open +rows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen loops; then +increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then knit sixteen, and +decrease as you increased, and thus the circle becomes regularly formed. + +BABY'S HOOD.--Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; cast on fifty +stitches, and knit eighty rows plain; roll up sixty, to form the front. +Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed together, and the rest +is to be drawn up for the crown. Then cast on fifty stitches to form the +foundation of the hood, and knit forty rows plain. Line with white silk, +and trim with satin ribbon. + +BABY'S SHOE.--Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast on twenty-eight +stitches, _in blue_, and knit one row plain; then knit a plain row in +white, adding one stitch at the end to form the heel, and turn; then a +similar row in blue, to increase and turn, repeat this without +increasing, and changing the colors each time, until you have ten +stripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, casting off seventeen +stitches. You begin from the heel. The remaining thirteen stitches are +knitted with white; turn; knit a row with blue; turn: and so continue, +until you have five rows of one color, and four of the other. The +thirteen stitches are then to be done in blue, and seventeen to +correspond, are to be added; turn: this side is finished like the other, +decreasing from the heel. You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to +form a shoe. You are then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches +round the ankle and fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the +three needles, and knit five rows plain; make a stitch by bringing the +wool forward, then slip one; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch +over them; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process for one +round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat and finish, +bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then knit two rows +plain, and cast off. You must use No. 14 needles, and double German +wool. + +A BEAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER.--This can be applied to a variety of +useful purposes. It is executed as follows. The number of stitches must +be even, and of any depth you deem desirable. Begin, by making a stitch, +laying the material over the needle; put it through two loops, and knit +them as one; repeat to the end of the row; thus continue to knit as many +rows as you please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten +off, letting from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel +for the fringe. + +A COMFORTER.--On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; and in +knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch. The +comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished with a +fringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will require a +quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool; for the fringe a +little more will be required. + +ANOTHER COMFORTER.--You are to cast on thirty stitches, and knit plain +sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards; then take +twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you will have +twenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by knitting as before, +twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only to sew up the end, and it +is done. + +ZEPHYR.--This is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made either of a +half-handkerchief form, or a square. Cast on about 130 loops, and knit +in French or honey-comb stitch, which you like; or any other pretty +pattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, &c. You may add a fringe and +border, which gives to the zephyr a rich and finished appearance. + +AN OVER-SHOE.--These are useful to wear in the house, or to slip over a +satin shoe, when occasion requires. The number of stitches to be cast on +is thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which is to be doubled, and sewn +up on one side, to the heel; then sew up three inches for the instep, +and form the toe by puckering in the end. + +A KNITTED MUFF, IN IMITATION OF SABLE.--You cast on seventy or eighty +stitches. Knit the first three rows plain; then, for the fourth row, +bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches at the back, knit them; +repeat to the end: these four must be repeated, until the piece is about +half a yard long, taking care that the shading is as correct as +possible. You must here use No. 19 needles, and double German wool. The +shades required are four, and you begin with the lightest, proceeding to +the darkest, and then reversing them. The muff must be stuffed, and +lined with silk. + +A STRONG KNITTED PURSE.--Any number of stitches, that can be divided by +three, will do. First and third row: The wool is to be brought forward, +then slip one, knit two, and pass over them the slip stitch; repeat +second and fourth row plain. Third and fifth row: knit two, before +commencing the pattern; the holes will then fall in a diagonal +direction: It will require to be well stretched. + +BAREGE KNITTING, FOR SHAWLS.--In this kind of work, you commence with +any number of stitches you require: and, after knitting one row plain, +you begin the second, by knitting three stitches; then, bring the wool +forward, and knit three together, taking them off at the back; again you +bring the wool forward, and knit three, as before. The third row is +pearled; and the fourth is the second repeated, only beginning by +knitting three stitches together. Fifth row, the same as the third; and +thus proceed with any number of rows you choose. You may introduce any +patterns in flowers, &c., you may desire, by breaking off the ground +color, and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by means +of a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. All flowers, &c., must be +done in plain knitting. + +CHECKED PATTERNS.--Any number of stitches may be cast on, that can be +divided by six. Then knit the first three rows three pearl stitches, and +three plain; second three rows, knit three stitches plain, and three +pearl. This pattern may be worked for children's socks, bags, mats, (if +done in coarse materials,) &c. + +CLOSE STITCH, FOR A WAISTCOAT.--This is to be done in two colors, and +cast on any odd number of stitches. First and fifth row, with one color; +knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second and sixth row, with the +same color; knit one, bring the wool forward, and slip one; pass the +wool back, knit one, repeat. The third is the first reversed, and the +fourth is worked exactly as the second, omitting the first stitch. + +PINE APPLE PURSE.--The material is purse twist, and you will require two +colors; one skein of green, and one and a half of orange. Cast on 159 +stitches, and proceed as follows. Knit the first row, and turn it, then +knit two rows, and again turn. To have ten points you must narrow and +widen alternately every seven stitches. Proceed in this way with the +green twist for fifteen rounds; then with the orange knit one plain row +and turn, knit seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then +reverse the narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of +every row of points, and make a loop on each side: you are to have eight +rows of points. You make no loops in the second row, but having counted +when you have finished the points, you seam in the first row of green +and reverse the narrowings without taking up the loops, proceed to knit +twelve rows; after which, you must narrow until you have but four loops +on each pin, then knit the stalks, and narrow off. + +STAR, WITH EIGHT POINTS.--This is proper for the bottom of a bag or +purse. In working it, proceed according to the following directions. You +work with five needles, on each of four of which you cast on two +stitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. Then, first row, raise, +knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at every knitted loop. +Second row, you knit a plain round. Third row, raise, knit two plain, +raise, two plain; the raising is at the beginning and middle of each +needle; and you thus proceed, until you have fifty beads on a needle, +for a bag, and eighteen for a purse. To take off the points, proceed as +follows: first row, raise one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needle +as in knitting, knit one, and draw the one not knitted over it; knit +plain, and put on beads until you come to the middle of the needle; thus +proceed with each pin, and the star will be completed. + +KNEE CAPS.--You commence with casting on eleven loops, and knitting +eight rounds; then begin to raise every alternate round until you have +forty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds plain, and then +narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. Take off. + +KNITTING FOOTING.--The material is fine cotton, and you cast eleven +stitches. Knit one row plain. Second row, knit one, make one, knit two +together, knit three plain, make one, knit two together knit three +plain. Third row, is the second row reversed; the fourth is the same as +the second; and you thus proceed with each row, alternately, for any +length you please. A bag knitted the same way, and put over blue or +crimson silk, looks extremely handsome. The material for a bag is fine +worsted, and you may cast on any number of stitches that can be divided +by eleven, taking care to have one additional stitch for each +twenty-two; that is, for four elevens, cast on forty-six. + +DOUBLE NIGHTCAP.--You will find five needles are required. You must cast +on two stitches on each of four needles, and in the first row increase +two, and in the second one plain stitch in each. In the third row, the +centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, and you must increase on +each side of it every other row, until you have attained the width +required. You then knit the fourth and every succeeding row plain, until +the cap is of a sufficient length, say twenty-four to twenty-eight +inches, then decrease the first row, and make the other end to +correspond with the one first knitted. + +DOTTED KNITTING, FOR BABY'S SHOES, &C.--Cast on and knit as many rows as +you desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next pearled. Begin every +other row with a pearled stitch. An odd number of stitches are required, +and No. 8 needles. + +KNITTED FRINGE.--This may be made of any material deemed most suitable +for the purposes to which it is to be applied. Cast on eight stitches. +First knit two, then make one by bringing the cotton round the needle, +and knitting it when it occurs in the next row; then knit two stitches +together, knit one, make one as before, knit two together, knit eight, +and so proceed to the end of the row. When you have knitted as many rows +as you require, cast off five stitches and leave three, to be +unravelled, for the fringe. They may be knitted in two or more colors, +taking care to knit them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal number +of stitches in each color. + +GENTLEMAN'S TRAVELLING CAP.--You first cast on an even number of +stitches, and thus proceed; the first row is plain; then slip off the +first stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the material in +front; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, and so +proceed to the end of the row: you commence the next by slipping a +stitch as before; then knit two stitches together to the last, which is +to be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately. + +HERRING-BONE PURSE.--The number of stitches must be so as to be divided +by four. The silk is to be brought forward, then slip one, knit one, and +bring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, again bring the silk forward, +pearl one, and so repeat. This purse should be knitted with second sized +netting silk, No. 13. + +HALF HANDKERCHIEF.--This is extremely pretty, when properly executed. +Begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit as many rows, +increasing one each row as is required to give you seven loops upon the +pin. You must increase always at the same end: then commence the +pattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and knit two stitches together, +putting the slipped stitch over the two knitted as one. Repeat this +until you have got to four stitches from the end; then again make a +stitch, and knit the remainder plain. The next row is to be done in +pearl stitch, and the succeeding one as the first pattern. Every row of +pearl stitch must be increased one, and the three last stitches are to +be knitted plain. This handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long +on the straight side. When completed, fasten off. + +HABIT SHIRT.--These are worn under a shawl, and are extremely +comfortable: they protect the chest from cold. The material most proper +for them is floss wool, and they should be knitted with steel pins. You +knit the front first, and begin by casting on as many loops as will form +the length required. As it is necessary that one end should be a good +deal more sloped than the other, you must be careful to increase at the +end most sloped, at each end of the row; but at the other, you are only +to increase at the end, and not at the beginning: having knitted one of +the fronts, knit the other to match it, and then begin the back. +Commence at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at +each end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one +shoulder to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row for +the neck. You then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on one +side and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper hollow is +obtained. You then knit the collar straight, and of any depth you +please. Make up, by sewing the various parts together, and set on a +ribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and another to secure it at +the throat. + +HARLEQUIN QUILT, WITH TUCKS.--This is done in double knitting stitch, +with six threads fleecy. The pieces are six inches square. Each square +consists of about 24 stitches, and they are to be sewn together with a +tuft of wool, black or white, at each corner. The square should be +knitted in at least three colors, including white; in a quilt one yard +and a half square, there will be 225 pieces, 113 of which should be +white. Make the tufts as follows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times +round a grooved wooden mesh, one inch in width: then slip a coarse +thread in the groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care that +an end is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to the +quilt. The loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the +mesh; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as possible. + +PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF.--Cast on the number of stitches required upon +No. 18 needles, and any kind of material you choose; three-threads +fleecy is generally preferred. Knit one plain stitch, then two together, +and so on alternately, to the end of the row: each succeeding one is but +a repetition of the first: it may be done in stripes, with various +colors. + +PLAIN KNITTED MUFFATEES.--For these you will require four needles. On +three of these cast on an equal number of stitches, according to the +size required, and knit each round three pearl and three plain: finish +with one plain and two pearl rows. + +STOCKINGS.--Cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 99, fifth +109, sixth 133. Then knit rounds to the commencement of the narrowings, +40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, according to the sizes given +above. The narrowings in the leg are according to the size, 8, 10, 12, +13, 14, and 21. After which you knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds to +the heel, which is to be formed in the following manner. The stitches +are to be divided in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for the +middle, and the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and +pearled stitches. The length, of course, varies in proportion to the +size, being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 for +the fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. The heel is finished +by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, and +taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row, till all is +taken off. There will thus be nine stitches when the heel is finished. +Having got thus far, you proceed to form the foot as follows. You take +up sixteen on each side of the heel, in the second row, and taking them +up, you make a seam on each side of the instep, knitting another stitch +in the loop under the first and last, which prevents holes in the +corners, that would otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round on +the heel sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as +those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot needle. +You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the case may be; +and the rounds between the heel and toe narrowings, will be 14, 18, 23, +26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the narrowings for the feet will be 6, +8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, according to the measurement given. +You begin the toe by narrowing double at the seams, leaving only the +seam stitch between, and narrowing twice with three, and twice with two +rounds left between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but one +round between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only are +left. Finish by putting the two needles having stitches on them +together. And when two stitches are done in this manner, cast them off, +the first over the last, until the whole is taken off the needles. It +should be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary with the size of the +stocking, and are as follows: first size 29, second 33, third 33, fourth +37, fifth 41, and sixth 45. + +Some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe is here +directed to be finished. + +OPEN-WORK STOCKINGS.--On each needle cast on 52 stitches with fine +cotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. When you +arrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, and when you have 38 +stitches on each needle, cease, and knit until the article is +completed; then take half the stitches to form the heel, knit 23 loops, +and narrow on each side of the seam for three rows. In forming the heel, +narrow every row once the fourth loop from the seam, and then the loops +must be taken up, the end one as close as possible. Take three stitches +from each side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round +plain; after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. +Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until only 36 +loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are the fifth and +sixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, and then narrow +at the ends of the needles every other row, until only ten remain on +each; narrow every row until you have only three, which you cast off in +the usual manner. The open pattern is produced by knitting every fifth +round thus: take two stitches in one, and bring the cotton in front of +the needle, that it may form a stitch before taking the succeeding two +into one. The more open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitches +and the finer needles you will require. + +A NIGHT STOCKING.--This is easily done: cast on 54 stitches on large +needles, and pearl every other stitch, narrowing gradually toward the +end. + +SOCKS.--These are very useful articles, and are easy of execution. In +the first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and in the third +85; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which there are 25, +29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The instep has 24, 25, or +42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 12, or 14 turns. The +length of the foot between the narrowings, is 10, 15, and 28 rounds. + +CORNER FOR A SHAWL.--This, if properly executed, according to the +directions, looks extremely handsome. Begin by casting on two loops, to +form the point; knit them, and proceed as follows. First row, make a +loop, knit the two original ones together, make a loop; you will then +have three loops upon the pin; knit four additional rows in plain and +pearled alternately, increasing a stitch at the beginning and end of +each row, and then on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. In +the next row commence the pattern thus. Sixth row begin with six plain +stitches, pearl one, knit six plain. Seventh row plain knitting. Eighth +row, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit two +together, pearl one, knit six plain. Ninth row plain. Tenth, knit six +plain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit two together, +again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make +a stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row plain. Twelfth, knit six plain, +knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, +knit six plain. Thirteenth row plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl +three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, +pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six +plain. Fifteenth row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a +stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. +Seventeenth row plain. Eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit two +together, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, +knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a +stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Nineteenth row +plain. Twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl three, knit +two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two together, pearl +three, knit two together, knit six plain. The twenty-first row is plain, +and you then decrease as you increased, knitting the twenty-second row +as the twentieth, and so proceed until you have two loops on the pin. +The square is then complete. + +BORDER FOR THE SHAWL.--Having finished the corner, pick up the +twenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain; the second row, +knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again pearl three, then +three plain, pearl three, knit four plain. The third row knit plain; the +fourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl three together, knit one, pearl one, knit two +together, make a stitch, pearl four, knit four plain. Fifth row plain. +Sixth row knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, +make a stitch, pearl three, knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, +knit two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain. +Eighth row, same as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth. +Eleventh plain. Twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, and +re-commence the pattern. The shawl must be knitted on the same sized +pins as the border and corner, and must have as many loops as there are +stitches in the length of the border. The border and corner may be done +in two colors, which must harmonize well with each other, and form a +good contrast to the shawl itself. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +NETTING. + + +EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. + +Netting is another employment, to which the attention of the fair has +been directed from the remotest times. Specimens of Egyptian network, +performed three thousand years since, are still in existence; and, from +that time, the art, in connection with that of spinning flax, was there +carried to its highest state of perfection. With these specimens, are +preserved some of the needles anciently used in netting. They are to be +found in one of the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made of +flax, and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, "they +could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry a +sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius Lupus, while +governor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each string of which +consisted of one hundred and fifty threads." But even this fineness was +far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, presented by Amasis, king +of Egypt, to the Rhodians, the threads of which, as we learn from the +same authority, were each composed of three hundred and sixty-five +fibres. Herodotus also mentions a corslet of a similar texture. + +In connection with other elegant female accomplishments, netting has +continued to claim the attention of the ladies of Europe, in every +advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cultivated +with considerable success. Netting was a favorite employment of the late +Queen Charlotte, during the latter years of her life. + +[Illustration] + +PLAIN NETTING.--Take the mesh in the left hand, (having previously made +a long loop with twine, and fixed it to any convenient support,) between +the two first fingers and the thumb. The netting needle must be threaded +with the material, and fastened by a knot to the long loop before spoken +of, and the mesh must be held up as close as possible to this knot +_under_ the twine. The silk is to be held in the right hand between the +fore finger and the thumb and must be passed under and around the left +hand, so that the material may be formed into a slack loop, passing over +all the fingers, except the little one. In this position, the silk must +be held between the upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, and +the needle must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing the +material to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. The +needle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass +under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus through +the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that portion of the +material which goes backward for the purpose of forming the second loop. +The needle must be kept in its position, till the right hand is so +brought round as to be able to pull it through, and then the needle +being drawn out and held in the right hand, the worker must disengage +all the fingers of the left except the last, which is to retain its hold +of the second loop, which was formed by passing the material round it. +By means of this hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to +be drawn to the mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the +foundation. This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of +stitches are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the net +desired. As the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered to +drop off; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn out, and a row +of loops will be found suspended from the foundation by their respective +knots, and moving freely onwards. The work is then to be turned over, +which will cause the ends of the rows to be reversed; and in netting a +second row, it will be done as before from left to right. In commencing +the second, and all the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed as +to come up close to the bottom of the preceding row or loops, and the +former process with the needle must be repeated. It will be needful, to +have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, or +otherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible it +should do. + +BEAD STITCH.--To execute this stitch properly, requires care, but it is +very ornamental. Beads of all kinds, may be introduced. In order to net +with beads, you must procure a long taper darning needle: the stitch is +as follows; string a bead upon the thread or silk you net with: this +bead is to be brought to the front of the mesh, and held there until the +knot is made; at the back of the mesh, bring the needle and thread, +passing the point through the bead which is upon the front of the mesh. +The needle and thread are then to be drawn through it, by which means +the bead will be brought quite up to the knot just made. By working the +beads in this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, and +so remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work. + +[Illustration] + +DIAMOND NETTING.--This kind of netting is easy of execution, and looks +extremely pretty. It is done by making every other stitch a loop stitch, +in order to effect which, the silk must be put twice round the mesh, +instead of once, as in plain netting. Treble diamond netting is similar, +only the process is rather more difficult in execution. After netting +three rows plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of +one loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is +finished: then in working the second row, commence with a plain stitch, +then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat as before. +For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, make a loop, +then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and the plain stitch +to the end of the row. For the fourth row you net three stitches in +plain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat as in previous rows. +An attention to this arrangement, will soon enable the young student in +net-work, to net in as many stitches as may seem desirable. + +[Illustration] + +DIAMOND NETTING, OF FIVE STITCHES.--Commence with a long loop, then net +five loops plain, repeat to the end of the row, finishing with a long +loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, make a loose stitch to meet +the short loop in the previous row, and withdraw the mesh before +commencing the next loop, work four loops plain, and so proceed. Third +row is commenced as the second: withdraw the mesh as before, and work +three plain loops. Begin the fourth row with a plain stitch, work a +long loop, then a loose stitch; withdraw the mesh, and work two plain +stitches; again withdraw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed +to the end. The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a +loose stitch, withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the +mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row commences with +three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and finish with two +plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as in the last case; make a +long loop, and finish with two plain stitches. The eighth row begins +with three stitches in plain netting; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch +plain, make a loose stitch, again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row +with a plain stitch. In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, +withdraw the mesh, net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, +again withdraw the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row +is begun as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, +then make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper for +this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized purse +twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work. + +[Illustration] + +DOTTED NETTING.--This is easily done. Cast on the number of loops you +require, and proceed as follows. Begin with long loop, in which you next +increase two stitches; repeat to the end of the row. None of the rows +are at all varied; and you must carefully preserve its uniform +appearance, as in that consists its principal beauty. + +SHADED SILK NETTING.--This is beautiful, when the shades blend well +together. Of course, each row must be worked in one shade, and the next +needful must be matched with the utmost care. It is not possible to +give minute rules on such a subject: but, in this, as in other things, +practice will insure success. + +[Illustration] + +GRECIAN NETTING.--This is beautiful, and should be worked with fine +silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 and 18; one plain row is to be netted +with the large mesh, and then in the next row employ the small one. The +silk is twisted round the fingers as in plain netting, and the needle +must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and thence into +the second. Then let the second be drawn through the first, and the +first through the second, finishing the stitch by releasing your fingers +and pulling the material tight. The succeeding stitch is a small loop, +that appears to cross the stitches twisted together. These three kinds +of stitches form the pattern, and are to be repeated until the work is +completed. Grecian netting may be employed for a variety of purposes, +and you can, of course, vary both the material and the meshes as best +accords with the design you are intending to accomplish. + +[Illustration] + +FRENCH GROUND NET.--You must have an even number of loops on the +foundation, then proceed. First row, plain stitches and long loops, +alternately; second row plain; make a loose stitch, and repeat. Begin +the fourth with a loose stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end; +commence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, and +the little loop as in the third row; in coming after the last long loop, +the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch. + +ANOTHER KIND OF HONEYCOMB NETTING.--Use a mesh No. 17, and set on an +even number of stitches. Net the first row plain, having the silk round +the mesh twice. For the second row you put the silk once round the mesh +and net the second loop, having previously half twisted it. Then net the +first loop plain, net the fourth as the second, again net a stitch +plain, and thus proceed with plain and half-twisted stitches, +alternately. The third row is the same as the first, and the fourth as +the second. These kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, +&c., and may be done in different colors if the purse is worked in four +or five rows of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting. + +[Illustration] + +HONEYCOMB NETTING.--You are to make an even number of loops, putting the +silk twice round a No. 18 mesh, for the second row net with the silk +once round the mesh, and put the first stitch through the second at the +back, and net it; then the second stitch is pulled through the middle of +the first and netted: you do the same with each two of the other +stitches, and must be careful not to burst them. For the third row, the +silk is put twice round the mesh, and the netting is plain. You proceed +thus in alternate rows until the work is done. + +[Illustration] + +HONEYCOMB NETTING, WITH TWO MESHES.--The meshes proper are No. 9 and 16. +Cast on an even number of stitches, and net the first row plain, with +the No. 9 mesh. With mesh No. 16 net the second row, working the second +stitch first and the first second, and so proceed netting the fourth +stitch, and then the third, and so on to the end. Work the third row +with No. 9 as before, and the fourth row as the second, only netting the +first loop plain, and then taking, first the third, and then the second, +and so on to the end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next +row is done plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first +twisted row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the +commencement of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This +kind of netting is proper for a veil. + +[Illustration] + +LEAF NETTING.--This is pretty when executed properly. You should work +with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. Five loops are required for each pattern. +Commence the first row by netting two plain loops for the edge, then net +three plain, in the next loop increase four, and repeat this operation +to the end of the row; finish with two plain loops. Begin the second row +as before, and collect all the loops increased in each of the twice four +loops formed in the last row, into one; then net four loops plain; +repeat this to the end of the row, and net two plain as before. The +third row is plain netting. The fourth row has two loops netted plain, +then two more plain; you then increase four on each of the next two +loops, net one plain, and repeat the operation to the end of the row; +finish by netting two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net +one plain loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three +plain, and so repeat; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is +netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires it to be +done. + +NET WITH POINTS.--This is done by making a foundation of, say, ninety +stitches. Net on this foundation with any color you please. Net fifty +stitches and return back again, proceed as before, only decreasing ten +stitches, and so go on, until the required point is gained. Two colors +are required. + +[Illustration] + +MALTESE NETTING, IN SPOTS.--This is neat and elegant: it is done as +follows. The first two rows are netted plain: you commence the third row +by netting seven stitches; the silk is then to be passed round the mesh, +and the needle brought under the knot in the second row, but without +netting it; that is between the stitch you last netted and the one you +are about to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be netted +separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row; but it is +to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches previously netted. If +you desire the spots to appear very distinct and prominent, let the silk +pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards through the loop, and repeat +the operation to the end. You may do this spotting, either as it appears +in the pattern, or in almost any form you please. + +[Illustration] + +PLAIN OPEN NETTING.--This is pretty, and easy of execution. The +operation is performed by netting three rows plain, then a row of loop +stitches, then three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. You may +net to any length you please. The direction here given is all that is +necessary, and if duly attended to will enable any young lady to attain +proficiency. + +[Illustration] + +ROUND NETTING.--You commence making the loops, as in common netting, by +twisting the silk round the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk +through the finger-loop, and bring it up on the back side of the mesh, +between it and the fore finger; the fingers and loop are still to be +kept on them as before; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought +down through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting +direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you withdraw +your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. You every succeeding +loop in the same way. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +NETTING. + + +EXAMPLES IN NETTING. + +A PURSE, WITH CHINA SILK.--Make as many stitches on the foundation as +you please. Net three rows with plain colors, then five with China silk. +Repeat. + +A SEAM PURSE, WITH BEADS.--You will need four skeins of fine silk, and a +mesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred stitches, net one plain row. +Then in the next row, net a plain and a bead stitch successively. Net +the third row plain, and begin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thus +till the purse is completed. + +A NETTED BAG, WITH RING.--On a foundation of sixty stitches, net the bag +to half the length required; then net in a gilt ring, and finish the +bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk tassel at the +bottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a No. 16 mesh. You may +use union cord, or gilt twist, if you prefer it. + +DICE PATTERN PURSE.--This is done in two colors, highly contrasted. You +must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a No. 10 mesh. On a +foundation of ninety-eight stitches, net seven with the darkest color. +You net seven rows. Then introduce the lighter silk, by joining it to +the seventh stitch of the first row of the dark color, and net seven +rows upon the succeeding seven stitches of the foundation. You must be +careful to loop in the last dark stitch on each row: repeat this process +until the purse is of the length you require; of course reversing the +squares. In cutting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a +weaver's knot, with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color. + +HONEYCOMB MITTENS.--You commence by casting on fifty stitches; the first +four rows are to netted plain: after which, you net one row with the +silk, twice round the mesh; again net two rows with the silk round the +mesh once: you then commence netting rounds, and net rows as before. The +first row is to be netted with the silk twice round the mesh, the second +is in honey-comb pattern; the third round is executed as the first, and +the fourth as the second; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches +with the silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two +increased stitches in the twelfth loop; in the next row, you are to net +five stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row; +net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four +succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately; in the next +round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, and net seven +stitches; increase two stitches in the eighth round and net seventeen in +plain and pattern, alternate rounds; in the eighteenth increase two, and +net five rounds; again increase two, and net five; and on each side +again increase two; net three rounds after the last increase, continuing +to net till you arrive at the stitch over the last stitch you increased, +and net it to the one corresponding to it on the other side of the +thumb; if it does not fit as it ought to do, you must decrease, until +that object is secured; you are to finish the thumb, by netting a round +with the silk, put twice round the mesh, and two rounds in plain +netting; the silk is to be fastened to the side of the thumb, in order +to finish the hand: and you are to net plain and pattern rounds +successively. When the mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in +the same manner you did the thumb, using double silk. + +NETTED CUFFS.--The materials are German wool and French floss silk, and +the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a small steel one, No. 15. +You commence on a foundation of fifty-four loops; and in order to form +the right side, you net one row of wool with the large mesh, and three +rows of silk with the small one, alternately, till you have netted +twenty four rows. Then you form the wrong side, by netting one row of +wool with the larger mesh, and two rows of the same material with the +small one. You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with +two narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, having in +each loop three stitches; above this, knit one narrow row of silk, and +do the same at the other end. You have only to double the cuffs, turning +the plain side inmost, and the rows of wool and silk will form a kind of +border and finish to the whole. + +NETTED CUFF WITH SILK AND WOOL.--On a foundation of ninety-six stitches, +and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in floss silk. Second row the +same. Then with an ivory mesh of half an inch in width, net one row in +German wool. The fourth row is to be done two stitches in one, with +wool, using a small mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net +fourteen rows with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be +done in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted in +dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, the same color +as at the commencement, alternately, with seven rows of wool, in proper +shades, and finish with an edge to correspond with the beginning. + +NETTED FRINGE.--Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required length, dropping +off the stitches on the left. Net the next row the same. Then with a +flat mesh, the width of the fringe, placing the grooved edge downward, +net one row. These latter loops are to be cut, and either left as they +are, or knitted two and two together, as the taste of the worker may +dictate. + +NETTED OPERA CAP.--Work with one mesh, half an inch wide; and another, +smaller, of steel; and begin on a foundation of seventy-four stitches. +You must procure in double German wool, two colors that contrast well: +commence with the darkest shade, and net with the wide mesh one row; the +second is to be netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately: the +sixth and seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh: then net five +more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately: this done, you +commence with the other color, and net one row, having three stitches on +each loop of the row preceding: you now introduce silk of the same color +as that of the wool first used, and net one row with the narrow mesh; in +that row all the stitches of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken +up separately; the foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the +lighter colored wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net +another piece of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and +taking one of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with +the narrow mesh in the centre row of knots; in the piece thus doubled, +proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the narrow one, +and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is then to be folded +in the same manner, and united to the former one by netting a row, +taking up as before the centre row of knots. This makes the front of the +cap appear in four pieces. At the back, in the centre row of knots, net +a row with the narrow mesh, to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the +cap at the end, and put the strings on. This completes it. + +[Illustration] + +NETTED SCOLLOP EDGING.--You work this with a flat mesh, and set on as +many stitches as you intend to have scollops. The flat mesh should be +No. 3; and you will also require two round ones, one No. 14 and the +other No. 18. Begin the work as follows. Net the first row with the flat +mesh, and increase eighteen stitches into each of the loops on the +foundation. For the second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain +stitch into each loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in +long loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh; you are to +increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the end of +the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and leaving all the +increased stitches without netting them, net the long loops plain. The +fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the mesh No. 14, which +finishes the scollop. + +PLAIN NETTED GENTLEMAN'S PURSE.--Of coarse netting silk, you will +require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must have a foundation of +eighty stitches on which to commence, and you net to the length of ten +inches. Net up the sides and damp it slightly, after which it is put +upon a purse stretcher, where it is to be left for a few hours, then +take it off and trim it as you please. + +A LADY'S PURSE.--Net in the same manner seventy stitches on the +foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ a mesh No. +10, and fine netting silk. Two colors may be used, netting five rows +with one, and four with the other. + +PLAIN NETTED MITTENS.--Begin on forty-eight stitches as a foundation, +and net four rows plain; then form the loops, for the ribbon, with a +mesh double the size of that you work with. Then five rows more are to +be netted plain; and in the next you must join both ends, and net one +plain round, taking care in the twelfth stitch to increase. Again net +round, and increase as before. Net the remaining stitches. You must then +net sixteen rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the +same place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the +thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the thumb, +decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger mesh you are +to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one round, taking the +two together. Net two or three rounds with a finer mesh: this finishes +the thumb. Net as many rounds as are wanted for the hand, and finish as +before. Run in the ribbon, and edge with lace. You must have a No. 12 +mesh, and five skeins of silk. + +[Illustration] + +A PLAIN SCOLLOP.--You must cast on one stitch for each scollop: this is +the first row. For the second, use a flat mesh No. 1, and increase +twenty stitches in each loop. Net the third with a round mesh No. 14, +netting all the increased loops plain. The two next rows are netted +plain, with the same mesh, which finishes the pattern. + +[Illustration] + +CAP BORDER SCOLLOP.--You commence with one stitch for each scollop, as +in last pattern. For the second row, use the flat mesh No. 1, and +increase in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the +round mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. +The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preceding one. +The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should be about the +size of what is called third-sized purse twist. + +NET CRAVAT.--This is netted with German wool, and with a mesh No. 9. +Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend first to use, net +twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then introduce the other color, or +white; and again, in the same manner, net twenty-three rows. Proceed +thus, till you have three stripes of each color: then net the two sides +together, and draw up the ends. You may add tassels, if you choose. + +A NET SCARF.--This is to be worked with two flat needles, No. 8 and No. +2, and in that kind of silk called _dockers_. You are to commence, by +casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows with the smaller mesh, +and thirty or thirty-two with the larger one. These repeated, six times, +completes the scarf. You must add the four narrow rows, which will +complete the edge. The scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have +tassels attached. + +A LONG PURSE, IN POINTS.--Upon your foundation loops, put sixty stitches +in one of the colors you intend to use, and return on them. Then, in the +next row, put on forty stitches, the next forty, and so on to ten, +always returning on the number last put on, and leaving the ten +unnetted. You then, with another needle, introduce your other color, and +put on ten stitches upon the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from +the sixty of the first color. When you have reached the last of the +sixty, which you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the +mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the +concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color the +ten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased ten; and +you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. One pattern is +then complete; and you re-commence and proceed as before. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +CROCHET. + + +STITCHES IN CROCHET. + +Crochet has been long known, but it has only become a favorite with the +fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It is very +difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be applied to a +variety of useful and ornamental purposes. It is most frequently adopted +in working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, slippers, carriage mats, +and a great variety of other things of elegance and utility. Silk, +cotton, and wool, are employed, and the work is so easy, that a moderate +share of attention to details, will make an expert workman. + +STITCHES.--These are called plain single crochet, plain double crochet, +plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety of stitches. +It is not easy to describe the manner of working crochet stitch, though +it is easy of execution: perhaps the following will be found tolerably +correct. Take a skein of wool, and having wound it, make a loop at one +end, like the first link in a chain; through this draw another, and so +on, until the chain is of the length required. Each must be made rather +tight as it is drawn through its preceding loop. This forms the +foundation, and the young worker may then proceed with the article she +intends to make. She must pass the needle through the last loop of the +foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, draw it +through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the foundation, +until the row is completed. Having thus formed the first row, she must +proceed as before to form a second, and so on from right to left, and +from left to right, until she has all the rows required. This is the +most effectual way we know of for the learner to pursue and she will +find that her work is the same on both sides, producing raised and +depressed rows in alternate succession. In working she must not +generally work backward and forward, but must finish each row +separately. + +PLAIN CROCHET.--Make only one loop in each stitch. In making common +purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed. + +PLAIN DOUBLE CROCHET.--Keep two loops on the needle before finishing the +stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than any of the others +described. + +PLAIN STITCH OPEN CROCHET.--This stitch is done in the following manner. +To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet five stitches, which +must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of the chain. This is to be +repeated to the foundation. The rest of the rows are to be done in the +same way, attaching every fifth stitch to the centre one of each loop in +the row preceding. This looks extremely well for purses, and it can be +varied by employing two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct. + +[Illustration] + +OPEN CROCHET.--This stitch is difficult to describe; an attention to the +following rules will, we hope, enable the reader to understand it. First +make a chain of the length required for the foundation; then work one +stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, which must be +passed through the first loop of the chain, through which bring the +material, and you will thus have three stitches on the needle. Through +the two first of these the material must be drawn, which will leave two; +through these the material must be again drawn, and that will leave one, +through which you are to make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. +You then put the material over the needle, and through the fourth link +of the chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch +between each two double ones, which will leave an open space. + +[Illustration] + +DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is a similar stitch, only the single stitch +is omitted, and the two long stitches are made together, by passing the +needle through the next loop without making a stitch. Thus you will have +two long stitches and one open stitch in succession. + +[Illustration] + +TREBLE OPEN CROCHET.--This is exactly like the last, only making three +long stitches, instead of two, before every plain stitch. It looks neat +and elegant, and may have beads introduced, which produce a charming +effect. The following directions will enable the novice to work with +beads with freedom and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and +pass one on to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones. + +This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square. Beads +of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a diamond. A gold or +polished steel one should form the centre of each diamond. + +DOUBLE STITCH CROCHET.--To work this you have only to take both meshes +of the chain, instead of one, as in common crochet. + +PLAIN STITCH ELASTIC CROCHET.--Work backward and forwards, first taking +one mesh of the chain, and then the other. The upper mesh must be taken +first. + +BEAD STITCH.--If you wish to work with beads, you must thread all you +intend to use, before you begin to work. Then when you wish to insert a +bead, no matter what the pattern is you are executing, you have only to +pass a bead down to the last stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on +by working the stitch as usual; but this will leave it on the wrong +side; to prevent which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the +front, having it on the fore finger of the left hand: by thus keeping +the bead in front, and inserting the needle from the back of the stitch +you are about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and +make the finishing loop in the common way: you will then find that the +bead is on the right side. + +EDGE STITCH.--To work this stitch you are to draw a loop through the +first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work in rounds, then +draw a second loop through the one last made. Thus the edge stitch is +formed. It is of importance to attend to the regular working of this +stitch, because if it is not done, you will lose in each row a stitch. +On a round, it is not necessary to work the edge stitch; but when the +work has to be turned to work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is +indispensible. + +A RAISED STITCH.--Make this by passing the needle through, both meshes +of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, in the same space +or hole. + +TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH.--In the former case, make two stitches +in the mesh; and in the latter, take two stitches together as one, or +miss one. + +TRUE STITCH.--This means to keep the stitches exactly over each other, +when working in different colors, so as to conceal the half stitch. +This must be done with care: and the more attention is paid to it, the +more beautiful will the work appear. + +TO FASTEN ON OR OFF.--The former is done by laying the two ends of the +material contrary wise, and working a few stitches with both. The latter +process is performed by drawing the material through the last stitch, +which must be fastened at the back. + +A DIVIDING LINE.--The most general form is that of working two stitches +up and down alternately, between the stripes in the groundings; but it +can be varied according to taste. + +What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end of a row, means +making one stitch of a chain before the first and after the last, which +new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeeding row. + +TO CARRY ON A THREAD IN DOUBLE CROCHET.--It is a very common thing to +work a pattern in crochet, in more than one color; when this is the +case, it is necessary that the colors, not required, should be so +managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, at the back. To accomplish +this, they must be worked in the following manner. Let the threads, that +are not required, be laid along the fore finger of the left hand; and +the crochet needle must be inserted in the usual manner, into the +stitch; you are to let it go below the threads you are carrying on, and +the thread with which you are working is to be drawn at the back, +through the stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the +finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and pull +through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you will make one +stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as your work requires +it. + +JOINING THE THREADS.--In order that threads may be united neatly and +properly, observe the following directions. Do not work up the thread +quite to the end, but leave a small portion; then, on the fore finger of +the left hand, by the end of the thread you are about to commence +working with, the end to be toward the tip of the finger, the ball will +of course be toward the arm; work over it for about six stitches, +proceeding as you do in carrying over the threads; then by the thread +you worked with, but on the same finger, and continue with the thread +you have last fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for +about six stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as +usual, with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, of +making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of securing the +required degree of fineness. + +TO INCREASE A STITCH IN CROCHET.--The process by which this is done, is +as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then work it again from the +hinder or back part of the stitch. This prevents a hole, which would +otherwise occur. + +TO TAKE IN A STITCH.--To do this, two stitches are taken on the needle +at the same time, and you work them off as one. + +We have given the fullest explanation of the various stitches in +crochet, that our limited space will allow; and we hope that the +directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to comprehend +their meaning. But we cannot promise any votary of this delightful +employment, even tolerable success, unless she will assiduously apply +her own mind to the various directions. "No one can become an expert +needlewoman, who does not think, and think deeply, too." + + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +CROCHET. + + +EXAMPLES IN CROCHET. + +[Illustration] + +CROCHET EDGING, FOR COLLARS, &C.--Ascertain the length you will require, +and cast on the necessary number of chain stitches; you must use a steel +hook No. 19. You will find your labor facilitated by sewing a piece of +tape at the beginning and the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. +If the tops be an inch wide, it will form a good beginning and +termination. The foundation of chain stitch forms the first row; the +second is worked thus; the hook is inserted through the first loop of +the foundation; (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to +be brought in the usual manner; directly above this, a second loop is +worked, which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work two +chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, by +casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on the +foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the hook, +passing two loops without working them, and catching the thread from +behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the needle three loops; +and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, which is, in like manner, +to be pulled through the first loop, near the point. By this, you will +still have three loops on the hook. Again, throw on a stitch as before, +which draw through the two first loops on the end of the hook; then +throw on another stitch, which must be pulled through the two loops +remaining on the hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle; +and thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, +and then perform another stitch; and so proceed, as in the former row, +but instead of inserting the hook in the third loop, as before, pass it +into the first open portion of the work, and work the stitch over the +two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The needle being +inserted into the open space, you are to catch the material in from +behind, and draw it through, by which you will have three loops on the +hook: then throw a loop on as before, and let it be drawn through the +first loop, on the point of the hook. Another loop is next to be thrown +in, and drawn through the two loops nearest the hook, on which you will +now have two loops. You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous +row, and so proceed to the end. The next row is the same in all +respects; and the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge: it is worked in the +following manner: the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a +double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row; then +seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two chain +stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus one scollop +or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others in the same way. + +[Illustration] + +PETTICOAT CROCHET EDGING.--Work this in the following manner. First row +like the last pattern. The second like the second of the last; and +finish with the fifth row of the same pattern. Persian cotton, No. 6, is +the best material; and you work with a long steel crochet needle, having +an ivory screw handle. + +CROCHET EDGING, HANDKERCHIEFS.--This is done in three rows, worked as +the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, for collars. +The material is Persian thread, No. 12; and you work with a fine steel +crochet needle, with a screw handle. + +INSERTION, OR CROCHET BEADING.--You work this, if narrow, as first and +second rows of the first pattern; if you have it wider, work it as the +third row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or No. 12 cotton, and +looks neat and handsome. + +The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended to. It is +necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than otherwise, as it +is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of the stitch depends, of +course, upon that of the needle; and, therefore, care should be taken, +to have them gauged. If a needle will go into the slit, opposite No. 4, +but not into No. 5, then it is a No. 4 needle. + +SOFA PILLOW.--Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good sized crochet +needle; work as follows. For the first stripe, commence with two rows of +the same color; the three next rows, in different shades, of a color +that will contrast well with that of the two first; the sixth row must +be of a different color, or it may be white. The next five rows are to +correspond, reversing the colors and shades. The second stripe is +composed of seven rows: the first, three distinct shades of the same +color; the middle one, a contrast; and the other three, the same shades +as the first, but reversed as before. The third stripe is the same, but, +of course, the colors are different. A white row in the middle of each +stripe, is, in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetition +of the first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the +second, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspond +_exactly_ with the first. + +TURKISH PATTERN, FOR A TABLE COVER.--Use a steel needle, and six threads +fleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of the same color, say +claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, gold color, blue, and +scarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work the pattern in two greens, two +scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a yellow. On the gold color, in two +blues and one claret, white, lilac, and green. On the blue, in two +scarlets, two greens, one drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the +scarlet, one green, one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. +We have merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to +assist the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. +She can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases; and the +more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more original will +her work appear. + +A PLAIN CROCHET BAG, IN SILK.--Begin at the top with a chain, of one +hundred and fifty stitches. The material to work with, may be any kind +of silk that is proper for the purpose, and of any color that may be +deemed desirable. On this foundation, a plain row is to be worked, and +then a row in two colors, in two stitches of each alternately. The +second color is employed to form the ground of the pattern. Work one +plain row, and then work large stars, in a color to contrast with the +plain ground. Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different +color. One row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the +pattern; and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two +colors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is to +contrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars should +also be well contrasted; but, all in the same stripe, must be of the +same color; all the small stars should be alike. The stripes are to be +repeated successively, until the bag is completed. + +A GREEK CAP, IN COARSE CHENILLE.--With a chain of six or eight stitches, +begin at the top, and having united the ends, work round and round, in +rows, until it is eight inches across. You must increase your stitches, +in each row, so as to preserve the work flat. Work the stitches in open +crochet, and between every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few +plain lines, in black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant. + +A CROCHET NECK CHAIN.--Commence with fine plain stitches; then put the +needle through the back of the second, and make one stitch plain. By +twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will find that one stitch +appears to cross; that stitch is the one to be next taken, and +crocheted. + +A PLAIN CROCHET PURSE.--This purse is made with middle-sized netting +silk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be made of one hundred +and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, on which, you are to +crochet three rows plain in the same color. Then, five rows, in a color +making a good contrast. Repeat these stripes as many times as are +requisite, and crochet up the sides. Draw up the ends, and trim the +purse. + +We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as without +engravings, they would not be understood. This kind of work is capable +of being applied to an almost indefinite number of purposes; but in +almost all cases, though easy of execution, the patterns are not easy to +be described in writing. We have, however, done all that is required, to +afford an insight into this kind of needlework; and have shewn that for +purses, bags, caps, neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into +requisition. Much care and judgment are required in the arrangement of +colors, as on this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +TATTING. + + +EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. + +[Illustration] + +TATTING OPEN STITCH.--Take your tatting needle, and, having threaded it +with the appropriate material make a knot at the end. In order to make +the loops, put the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand, +and form also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers, +extending them for that purpose. These loops are made by carrying the +thread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, so +as to pass over the knot. In this position they must be held tightly +down by the pressure of the thumb. You will observe that the thumb and +fore finger are never to be moved while you form the scollop, but you +are to bring the needle and thread toward you in a straight direction +from the fore finger and thumb, between the second and third fingers: +the needle is then to be inserted from behind the finger loop, up +through the middle, between the thread which is on the needle, and the +thread round the fingers. You must be careful to have the thread (on the +needle) between you and the needle, after you have drawn it through. +From the right hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as +possible, leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make +the stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which +is next the needle. You are to withdraw the second finger, and allow the +loop round the fingers to form round the thread. The fingers are then to +be again inserted, and form the stitch with the second finger by drawing +it up to its proper place, close to the thumb. This will finish the +stitch. For the next, cast the thread over the back part of the hand, +instead of bringing it to you as in the former stitch, and let the +needle be inserted down through the finger loop, between the first and +second fingers; then draw it up through between the two threads over the +back part of the fingers, and form the stitch with the second one, as in +the previous stitch. You work the third stitch the same as the first, +only longer, that it may form a long loop. Repeat the second stitch, +then the long loop; and thus proceed until you have seven loops: after +this, the thread is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop. + +[Illustration] + +STAR TATTING.--The material for this kind of work is bobbin, such as is +generally used for children's caps. You have only to work six scollops +and draw them up close, so as to form a star. When made with precision +and regularity, they present a neat appearance. Star tatting is well +adapted for trimmings to a great many articles of apparel and ornament. + +[Illustration] + +COMMON TATTING EDGING.--Make the loops, and work the first stitch as in +the first pattern; then work twenty stitches the same way to form the +scollop. When it is finished, you must draw up the thread tight, and +then commence another. If it has been properly done, the scollop will +draw freely. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +CONCLUDING REMARKS. + + +In bringing the Ladies' Work-Table Book to a close, we cannot persuade +ourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or two to our fair +friends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all the useful or +ornamental accomplishments their circumstances and situations may enable +them to acquire. We should never, for one moment, suffer the utile to be +absent from our thoughts: she who has no definite aim in what she does, +can never have any good ground of hope, that, in her progress through +life, she can attain to excellence. + +These remarks apply principally to that large class, who are dependent +upon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort and respectability, +in their respective stations. But, as those ladies, whose circumstances +render a practical acquaintance with the arts here treated of, a matter +of indifference, a knowledge of them is, by no means, unnecessary. In +many ways indeed, a lady, blessed with affluence, may render an +acquaintance with the details of needlework extensively useful. + +It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, whose +education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably neglected. In +those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and is actuated by a +true Christian spirit, will consider herself as standing in the place of +a mother to her humble dependents; and, under a deep sense of her high +responsibilities, will endeavor to improve, and fit them, by suitable +and kindly-imparted instructions, for the proper discharge of the duties +of that station, which it may be presumed they will in after days be +called upon to fill. In this case, how useful will the kind and careful +mistress find a knowledge of that art, which teaches the proper method +of making those articles of dress which are so essential to every family +who, however humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wise +and the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectable +appearance. + +Those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their time to +the superintendence of our female charity schools, will also find such +knowledge extremely beneficial. To those who are disposed to follow the +example of the holy Dorcas, in providing garments for the deserving and +destitute poor, an acquaintance with _plain needlework_ is +indispensible; and indeed, it will, in every walk of life, be found +useful to her who is, by the animating love of the Lord Jesus, disposed + + "To seek the wretched out, + And court the offices of soft humanity." + +Another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of the kindly +solicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed out. In cases +where the secular tuition of young persons has been neglected, it will +be generally found that their religious and moral training has been +equally uncared for. Let the Christian lady evince a real desire to +improve the temporal condition of those beneath her influence, and she +will soon find that the best affections of the heart are opened to the +reception of instructions of a higher and still more important +character. Hard indeed must be that heart which can resist the influence +of genuine kindness exercised in a friendly Christian spirit. We once +had the pleasure of seeing a young servant baptized in the faith of +Christ, while those in whose service she was, and two others, highly +respectable persons, answered for her at the font. This beautiful +meeting together of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the most +splendid parish churches in England, and left on our minds an impression +which will never be effaced. + +In the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the young votary +of the needle, such instructions as we hope will be found sufficiently +clear to enable her to produce many a delightful specimen of her +assiduity, taste, and judgment. We have sought to be concise, without +being obscure; and to give plain directions, without making our readers +mere imitators, or copyists. One fault which is to be found in all the +books on these subjects, which we have seen, we have carefully avoided; +that is, the giving a list of the various colours to be employed in the +fabrication of each example given. Nothing can be more absurd, and +mischievous than this. The young work-woman can only exercise her +judgment, to any extent, in this department of her labors. The various +stitches she must form according to the prescribed rule; because, in +most instances, they can be performed in no other manner; but in the +choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope: here +judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and +forms; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to rely +upon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense of beauty +or propriety. We see the effect of this, in the sameness, and monotonous +appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work: and we have endeavored to +do our best, to introduce a more correct taste and principle into this +department of the elegant arts, in which females are engaged. We know +that much native genius exists among our fair countrywomen; and we wish +to see it expand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps over +our native hills. + +We have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to which the +needle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so well calculated +to promote: and if such be its importance, then it will be readily +admitted by all, that he who has made the most improvements, and +produced the most finished specimens of this all-important instrument, +has conferred a real benefit upon his race. + +We have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition of +accomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. We wish to direct the +minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest and instruct, to +the immortal beauties of moral excellence. These works may be made +conducive, in a high degree, to the development of family affection, and +the promotion, to a vast extent, of the purposes of genuine charity, +benevolence, and friendship. But there is yet a higher kind of use, to +which we would apply them. We would have the young lady, who is becoming +expert and clever at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric +grows beneath her forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill +to plan and execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind; of that +Mind, whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the +Omnipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency to what +would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer cloud. It is +Omnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived and executed all the +beautiful wonders of creation; and that Wisdom and Power were called +into activity by Omnipotent Love. We wish to impress this sublime truth +upon the mind of our young readers, because we wish them to place their +Heavenly Father before them--as their pattern and example--in all that +they take in hand; and to remember that, as He formed the universe by +Wisdom, from Love--so all their actions and elegant contrivances should +be the result of judgment, guided by affection--that they may thus +become like their Father, who is in Heaven. + +Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservient to the +development of moral goodness, that they may become pursuits at all +worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent into this world to +flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only to be seen and +admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow beings; and to make +all our powers and capabilities, in some way or other conducive to the +happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers on the path of time. To this +end, we wish our fair countrywomen to devote their best attention; and, +in its attainment, to exert every energy which they possess. We wish +them to make all the knowledge which they may acquire subserve some +noble purpose; which will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the +well-spring of the purest affections must be opened in the soul; and the +elegant productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, +by the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a +leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and such +they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, and +placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more important +duties. The young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or of music, +should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those pursuits, will +be accounted lost or improved, by the impartial Judge of all--just in +proportion as they have been made to serve the purposes of selfish +gratification, or to minister to the development of an elevated moral +character--generous and warm affections--and the cultivation of those +virtues, which, as essentials of the Christian character, shall outlive +the ravages of time, and qualify the soul for all the beatitudes of a +coming eternity. + +In all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, let her +place a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to render every +transaction of her life conducive to her preparation for a higher state +of being. Our various faculties and powers were not given us to be +wasted, but to be used to the honor of our Creator--the comfort and +welfare of those around us--and, as a consequence of our faithful +discharge of our several obligations, conducive, in an eminent degree, +to our happiness. No mistake can be more fatal, than an idea that, for +what we call trifles, we shall have no account to render. What we call +trifles, may be, in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the +most important acts of our lives. It is not by great events that our +characters are formed; but by the neglect or performance of our duties +in that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly Father has +seen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, soothe the sorrows, +increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all around us, should be +the highest aim of a laudable ambition--and every endeavor should be +most assiduously devoted to the accomplishment of these important ends. +It is, in fact, only when we thus employ our various talents and +capabilities, that they are really useful, in any other case, they are +only ministers to our personal pride, and selfish gratification, instead +of becoming links in that golden chain, by which the faithful +performance of appointed duties is elevated to the possession of "a +crown of righteousness, that fadeth not away." + +Let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exercises +her judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or materials, or in +the invention of new developments of creative genius, ever remember to +exercise those powers as a Christian--let her cultivate, in her inmost +soul, the conviction, that all her skill and power is imparted from on +high--and let her be careful to make all she does, a sacrifice, +acceptable to her God, by doing all in the spirit, and under the +influence of that sacred charity--that boundless benevolence--which ever +rejoices, in making its various capabilities subservient to the good of +others, and thus gives to the otherwise perishable occurrences of time, +an endurance and a continuity, that shall endure for ever. + + + + +INDEX. + + + Algerine Work, 69 + + Angular Stitch, 33 + + Applique, 84, 89 + + Apron, Girl's, 40 + + ----, Morning, 40 + + ----, Vandyke, 40 + + ---- for a young person, 40 + + Aprons, 38 + + ----, Dress, 39 + + Armorial Bearings, 83, 89 + + + Baby's Cap, 111 + + ---- Hood, 112 + + ---- Shoe, 112 + + Barege Knitting for Shawls, 115 + + Basket Stitch, 66, 88 + + Bathing Gown, 40 + + Bead Stitch, 127, 145 + + Bead Work, 84 + + Beaufort Star, 71 + + Beautiful Fringe and Border, 113 + + Bed-room Linen, 54 + + Bee's Stitch, 101 + + Berlin Wire Stitch, 101 + + Biassing, 35 + + Binding, 59 + + Biroche, A, 111 + + Blankets, 54 + + Border for a Shawl, 124 + + Braces, 85 + + Braiding, 59 + + Braid Work, 84, 89 + + Brief Description of Wools, 22 + + Bustles, 41 + + Button-hole Stitch, 31 + + + Cap Border Scollop, 140 + + Caps, 41 + + Cashmere Shawl, 49 + + Cast off, To, 100 + + Cast on, To, 98 + + Cast over, To, 99 + + Chain Stitch, 32, 102 + + ---- ---- on Gathers, 34 + + Checked Patterns, 115 + + Chenille Embroidery, 80 + + Chess Pattern, 71 + + Child's Collar, 41 + + Cloaks, 42 + + Close Stitch for Waistcoats, 115 + + Comforter, A, 113 + + Comforter, Another, 113 + + Common Plait, 101 + + Common Tatting Edging, 155 + + Coral Pattern, 35 + + Corner for a Shawl, 122 + + Corners, To fill up, 69 + + Cravats, 42 + + Crochet Edging, for Collars, 148 + + ---- ---- for Hdkfs., 150 + + ---- Neck Chain, 152 + + Cross Stitch, 65 + + Crow's-foot Stitch, 102 + + + Diagram, 61 + + Diamond Netting, 128 + + ---- ---- 5 stitches, 128 + + Dice Pattern, 72 + + ---- ---- Purse, 135 + + Dinner Napkins, 56 + + Dividing Line, A, 146 + + Dotted Knitting, Baby's shoe, 117 + + ---- Netting, 129 + + Double Cross Stitch, 65 + + ---- Diamond, long stitch, 72 + + ---- Herring-boning, 34 + + ---- Knitting, 103 + + ---- Nightcap, 117 + + ---- Open Crochet, 144 + + ---- Plait Stitch, 69 + + ---- Stitch Crochet, 144 + + ---- Straight Cross Stitch, 65 + + Dressing Table Covers, 55 + + Dress Shawl, 49 + + Dutch Common Knitting, 104 + + + Edge Stitch, 145 + + Elastic Rib, 105 + + Embroidery, 88 + + ---- in Wool, 80 + + ---- with Silk, 79 + + Embossed Diamond, 104 + + ---- Hexagon Stitch, 104 + + + Fancy Bobbin Edging, 34 + + ---- Button-hole Stitch, 31 + + ---- Chain Stitch, 31 + + ---- Herring-boning, 33 + + Fantail Stitch, 105 + + Fasten on, To, 100 + + ---- off, To, 146 + + Feather Stitch, 67 + + French Ground Net, 130 + + ---- Stitch, 105 + + Frills, 42 + + Frame, to Dress for Cloth Work, 82 + + ----, to Dress for Cross Stitch, 82 + + ----, to Dress for Tent Stitch, 83 + + + Gathering, Double, or Puffing, 30 + + ----, 30 + + Gem, or Set Patterns, 85 + + Gentlemen's Belts, 43 + + ---- Braces, 89 + + ---- Collars, 43 + + ---- Fronts, 43 + + ---- Travelling Cap, 118 + + ---- Waistcoats, 85, 89 + + German Knitting, 105 + + ---- Pattern, 72, 88 + + Gobelin, 85 + + ---- Stitch, 66 + + Grecian Netting, 130 + + Greek Cap, coarse Chenille, 152 + + + Habit Shirt, 119 + + Half Handkerchief, 118 + + Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts, 119 + + Heart Pattern, 73 + + Hemming, 29 + + ----, German, 29 + + Herring-bone Bag Stitch, 106 + + ---- Purse, 118 + + Herring-boning, 33 + + Honeycombing, 36 + + Honeycomb Mittens, 136 + + ---- Netting, 131 + + ---- ----, with two Meshes, 131 + + ----, Another kind, 130 + + ---- Stitch, 106 + + Horse-shoe Stitch, 34 + + Housemaid and Kitchen Linen, 57 + + + Imitation Net-work Stitch, 106 + + Indian Scarf, 49 + + Insertion, Crochet Beading, 150 + + Instructions in Grounding, 91 + + Irish Diamond, 73 + + ---- Stitch, 66 + + + Jelly Bag, 58 + + Joining the Threads, 146 + + + Knee Caps, 116 + + Knit Herring-bone Stitch, 107 + + Knitted Footing, 117 + + ---- Fringe, 117 + + ---- Muff, 114 + + Knitting Stitch, 99 + + + Lace, 73, 88 + + ---- Wave Stitch, 107 + + Ladies' Drawers, 43 + + ---- Flannel Waistcoats, 44 + + ---- Night Jackets, 44 + + ---- Purses, 139 + + ---- Walking Shawls, 50 + + Landscapes, 85 + + Leaf Netting, 132 + + Long Purse, in Points, 141 + + Loop Stitch, 100 + + + Making Buttons, 60 + + Maltese Netting in Spots, 133 + + Mantuamaker's Hem, 29 + + Materials for Plain Needlework, 17 + + ---- for Embroidery, 21 + + ---- for Fancy Needlework, 20 + + ---- for Knitting, Netting and Crochet, 21 + + Marking, 59 + + Medallion Pattern, 90 + + Mosaic Work, 86, 89 + + Moss Stitch, 107 + + Mourning Shawls, 50 + + + Narrowing, 99 + + Necessary Implements in Crochet, 26 + + Necessary Implements in Fancy Needlework, 25 + + Necessary Implements in Knitting, 25 + + Necessary Implements in Netting, 25 + + Neck and Pocket Handkerchiefs, 45 + + Net Cravat, 141 + + ---- Scarf, 141 + + ---- with Points, 132 + + Netted Bag, with Ring, 135 + + ---- Cuffs, with Silk and Wool, 137 + + ---- Cuffs, 137 + + ---- Fringe, 138 + + ---- Opera Cap, 138 + + ---- Scollop Edging, 139 + + Night Gowns, 45 + + ---- Stockings, 122 + + + Open Cross Stitch, 108 + + ---- Crochet, 143 + + ---- Hem, 107 + + ---- Work Stockings, 121 + + Ornamental Ladder Stitch, 108 + + Over Shoe, 114 + + + Pantry Linen, 56 + + Pattern for a Light Scarf, 120 + + Patterns on Canvas, 86 + + Pearl Stitch, 99 + + Perforated Card, 86, 89 + + Petticoat Crochet Edging, 149 + + Petticoats, 46 + + ----, Flannel, 46 + + Pillow Covers, 54 + + Pinafore, 47 + + Pincushion Covers, 55 + + Pine Apple Purse, 115 + + ---- ---- Stitch, 108 + + Piping, 60 + + Plain Crochet, 143 + + ---- Crochet Bag, in Silk, 151 + + ---- ---- Purse, 152 + + ---- Double Crochet, 143 + + ---- Knitted Muffatees, 120 + + ---- ---- Gentleman's Purse, 139 + + ---- Netted Mittens, 139 + + ---- Netting, 126 + + ---- Open Netting, 133 + + ---- ---- Stitch, 109 + + ---- ---- Elastic Crochet, 144 + + ---- Stitch Open Crochet, 143 + + ---- Scarf, 48 + + ---- Scollop, 140 + + Plaiting, 60 + + Pockets, 48 + + Point Stitch, 68, 88 + + Porcupine Stitch, 109 + + Princess Royal, 74, 88 + + Pudding Cloth, 58 + + Purse, with China Silk, 135 + + + Queen Stitch, 68 + + Queen's Vandyke, 68 + + Quilts, 54 + + + Raised Embroidery, 80 + + ---- Stitch, A, 145 + + ---- Work, 93 + + Raising, 99 + + Rib, To, 99 + + Ribbon Scarf, 48 + + Roman Pattern, 74 + + Round Netting, 133 + + Rough Cast Stitch, 110 + + Row, A, 99 + + Rug Bordering, 87, 88 + + Running, 29 + + Russian Pattern, 74 + + + Scale of Canvases, 21 + + Seam, To, 99 + + Seam Purse, with Beads, 135 + + Serpentine Stitch, 35 + + Sewing and Felling, 29 + + Shaded Silk Netting, 129 + + Sheets, 54 + + Shifts, 50 + + Shirts, 51 + + Single Plait Stitch, 68 + + Slip Stitch, 100 + + Socks, 122 + + Sofa Pillow, 150 + + Star Pattern, 90 + + ---- Tatting, 154 + + ---- with Eight Points, 116 + + Stitches in Crochet, 142 + + Stitching, 30 + + Stitch, To take in a, 147 + + ----, To increase or decrease a, 145 + + ----, To incr. in Crochet, 147 + + Stitches, To cast on the Loops or, 98 + + Stockings, 120 + + Straight Cross Stitch, 65 + + Strong Knitted Purse, 114 + + Suggestions as to Patterns, 77 + + + Table Cloths, 56 + + ---- Linen, 56 + + Tatting, Open Stitch, 153 + + Tent Stitch, 64 + + Thread, To bring forward a, 100 + + ----, To carry on a, in Double Crochet, 146 + + Towels, 55 + + Travelling Shawl, 50 + + Treble Open Crochet, 144 + + True Stitch, 145 + + Tucks, 60 + + Turkish Pattern for a Table Cover, 151 + + + Veils, 52 + + Velvet Stitch, 69 + + Victoria Pattern, 75 + + + Wave Pattern, 75 + + ---- Knitting, 110 + + Welts, 100 + + Whipping, 31 + + Windsor Pattern, 76 + + Wire Work, 87, 89 + + Working Berlin Pattern, 93 + + ---- Figures, 89, 92 + + + Zephyr, A, 114 + + +THE END. + + + + +Transcriber's Note + + +The following typographical errors were corrected. + + iv human felicity changed to human felicity. + v fair one changed to fair one. + v then, how, to fabricate changed to then, how to fabricate + vi form and utilty changed to form and utility + ix netting of a purse, changed to netting of a purse. + 18 very difficult t changed to very difficult to + 19 both sides, This changed to both sides. This + 20 MATERIALS FOE changed to MATERIALS FOR + 21 Knitting Netting, changed to Knitting, Netting, + 22 than others changed to than others. + 22 Wool.--This changed to WOOL.--This + 22 yarn, for mitts, changed to yarn, for mitts. + 24 her to devise changed to her to devise. + 25 Tissue Paper changed to Tissue Paper. + 27 extacy;" changed to extacy; + 27 native sky. changed to native sky." + 28 principal stiches changed to principal stitches + 29 thread with out changed to thread without + 30 GATHERING changed to GATHERING. + 30 are gathered, Then changed to are gathered. Then + 33 appropriate situations changed to appropriate situations. + 34 intricate to describle changed to intricate to describe + 36 must take grest changed to must take great + 38 visiter changed to visitor + 41 colico, ore changed to calico, are + 44 ADIES' NIGHT JACKETS. changed to LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS. + 48 wrong, side changed to wrong side + 48 PLAIN SCARF changed to PLAIN SCARF. + 51 Another meth d changed to Another method + 55 into the other, changed to into the other. + 60 in the middle changed to in the middle. + 60 like a star changed to like a star. + 64 painting in oil, changed to painting in oil. + 65 CROSS STITCH changed to CROSS STITCH. + 65 This is a stich changed to This is a stitch + 66 arrangment changed to arrangement + 67 same color changed to same color. + 70 unavailable repentance changed to unavailable repentance. + 71 increas-increasing changed to increasing + 72 inprovement changed to improvement + 76 is complete changed to is complete. + 76 ane xtremly changed to an extremely + fn 79-* The footnote marker was missing on the footnote + 80 CHENILLE EMBROIDERY changed to CHENILLE EMBROIDERY. + 81 perseverence changed to perseverance + 83 restored to changed to resorted to + 84 braided with ther changed to braided with their + 85 lavendar changed to lavender + 88 CHAPTER X changed to CHAPTER X. + 88 considerable size changed to considerable size. + 89 assidously changed to assiduously + 93 the, first changed to the first + 96 forgotton changed to forgotten + 96 incovenience changed to inconvenience + 98 Lee., M. A, changed to Lee, M. A., + 98 first intoduction changed to first introduction + 98 the means changed to the means, + 99 PEARL STITCH changed to PEARL STITCH. + 100 NOTE, in cas tingon changed to NOTE, in casting on + 102 other three stiches changed to other three stitches + 102 that tbe pins changed to that the pins + 103 previous methods changed to previous methods. + 104 stitches, you choose changed to stitches you choose + 104 taking careto changed to taking care to + 106 loops, and kniting changed to loops, and knitting + 107 knit three siitches changed to knit three stitches + 111 preceeding changed to preceding + 112 five rows o changed to five rows of + 113 ancle changed to ankle + 113 each stitch; The changed to each stitch. The + 114 fringe and borber changed to fringe and border + 115 knitting three stiches changed to knitting three stitches + 118 when it ouccurs changed to when it occurs + 120 PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF changed to PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF. + 120 generaly changed to generally + 122 every other stich changed to every other stitch + 123 Eleventh row plain changed to Eleventh row plain. + 123 make a siitch changed to make a stitch + 123 knit two togteher changed to knit two together + 124 twenty-seeond changed to twenty-second + 127 bottom of the preceeding changed to bottom of the preceding + 128 For the fouth changed to For the fourth + 129 principal beauty changed to principal beauty. + 131 the end Work changed to the end. Work + 134 You every is missing a word, probably "work." This change was + not made in the text + 134 succeding changed to succeeding + 135 ninety-eight stiiches changed to ninety-eight stitches + 136 net seven stiches changed to net seven stitches + 137 double silk changed to double silk. + 137 to the whole, changed to to the whole. + 140 loop Net changed to loop. Net + 143 can be be varied changed to can be varied + 144 each square, changed to each square. + 145 back or the changed to back of the + 145 loose in each changed to lose in each + 145 TO INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH. changed to TO INCREASE OR + DECREASE A STITCH. + 145 conceal the the half changed to conceal the half + 146 means meaking changed to means making + 150 This is done it changed to This is done in + 152 same color changed to same color. + 153 Take you tatting changed to Take your tatting + 157 of a highe changed to of a higher + 160 puposes of selfish changed to purposes of selfish + 161 sooth changed to soothe + 163 Bedroom changed to Bed-room + 163 ---- on Gathers changed to ---- ---- on Gathers + 164 Tatting Edging changed to Tatting Edging, + 164 Fan-tail changed to Fantail + 165 Travelling Cap changed to Travelling Cap, + 165 Imitation Network changed to Imitation Net-work + +The Index has been standardized to have a , between the index entry +and the page number. + +The following words had inconsistent spelling and hyphenation. + + cross-way / crossway + honey-comb / honeycomb + indispensible / indispensable + needle-woman / needlewoman + needle-work / needlework + net-work / network + pin-cushion / pincushion + vitalized / vitalised + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Ladies' Work-Table Book, by Anonymous + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK *** + +***** This file should be named 29382.txt or 29382.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/3/8/29382/ + +Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project +Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation" +or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project +Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation." + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right +of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws. + +The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/29382.zip b/29382.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..55650ef --- /dev/null +++ b/29382.zip diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6312041 --- /dev/null +++ b/LICENSE.txt @@ -0,0 +1,11 @@ +This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements, +metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be +in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES. + +Procedures for determining public domain status are described in +the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org. + +No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in +jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize +this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright +status under the laws that apply to them. diff --git a/README.md b/README.md new file mode 100644 index 0000000..910a441 --- /dev/null +++ b/README.md @@ -0,0 +1,2 @@ +Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for +eBook #29382 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/29382) |
