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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Before and after Waterloo
+       Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802;1814;1814)
+
+Author: Edward Stanley
+
+Editor: Jane H. Adeane And Maud Grenfell
+
+Release Date: November 29, 2009 [EBook #30564]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images available at Bibliothèque nationale
+de France (http://gallica.bnf.fr) and The Internet Archive
+(http://www.archive.org).
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: book's cover]
+
+
+
+
+BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO
+
+[Illustration: _Le courier du Rhin perd tout en revenant de la foire de
+Leipsig._]
+
+
+
+
+BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO
+
+LETTERS
+
+FROM
+
+EDWARD STANLEY
+
+SOMETIME BISHOP OF NORWICH
+
+(1802; 1814; 1816)
+
+EDITED BY JANE H. ADEANE AND MAUD GRENFELL
+
+LONDON
+
+T. FISHER UNWIN
+
+ADELPHI TERRACE
+MCMVII
+
+(_All rights reserved._)
+
+ECHOES OF PAST DAYS
+
+AT
+
+ALDERLEY RECTORY
+
+[Illustration: _Edward Stanley D.D._
+
+_Bishop of Norwich_
+
+_n. 1780 ob. 1849_]
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY                               9
+
+CHAPTER I
+NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE                                          25
+
+CHAPTER II
+AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL                                              73
+
+CHAPTER III
+UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG                                             97
+
+CHAPTER IV
+ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY                                   144
+
+CHAPTER V
+THE LOW COUNTRIES                                                 199
+
+CHAPTER VI
+THE WATERLOO YEAR                                                 235
+
+CHAPTER VII
+AFTER WATERLOO                                                    247
+
+_The originals of most of the letters now published are, with the
+drawings that illustrate them, at Llanfawr, Holyhead._
+
+_Some extracts from these letters have already appeared in the "Early
+Married Life of Maria Josepha, Lady Stanley," but are here inserted
+again by kind permission of Messrs. Longman, and complete Bishop
+Stanley's correspondence._
+
+_Portions of letters quoted in Dean Stanley's volume, "Edward and
+Catherine Stanley," have also been used with Messrs. Murray's consent._
+
+_In addition to the MSS. at Llanfawr, Lord Stanley of Alderley has
+kindly contributed some original letters in his possession._
+
+_J.H.A._
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+"LE COURIER DU RHIN"                                   _Frontispiece_
+
+_Sketch brought to England 1814 by General Scott of Thorpe,
+one of the detenus in France for ten years after the rupture
+of the Peache of Amiens, mentioned page 73._
+
+BISHOP STANLEY                                       _To face page_ 2
+
+_By John Linnell. From a drawing in the possession of
+Canon J. Hugh Way, Henbury._
+
+MARGARET OWEN, LADY STANLEY                              "         10
+
+_From a miniature in the possession of Lady Reade-Carreglwyd,
+Anglesey._
+
+"FLIGHT OF INTELLECT"                                    "         17
+
+_Humorous sketch by E. Stanley._
+
+EDWARD STANLEY, 1800                                     "         25
+
+_By P. Green. The original in the possession of Lord Stanley
+of Alderley, at Penrhos, Anglesey._
+
+THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE                                 "         31
+
+_Sketch by E. Stanley, 1802._
+
+THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE                       "         43
+
+_Sketch by E. Stanley,_
+
+LORD SHEFFIELD                                           "         73
+
+_By Sir Joshua Reynolds, P.R.A. From an engraving in the
+possession of J.H. Adeane, Lanfavar, Holyhead._
+
+KITTY LEYCESTER, MRS. EDWARD STANLEY                     "         82
+
+_From a drawing by H. Edridge, A.R.A., at Alderley Park,
+Cheshire._
+
+PARIS, 1814. OLD BRIDGE AND CHÂTELET                     "        108
+
+_E. Stanley._
+
+PARIS, LA POMPE, NOTRE DAME                              "        115
+
+_E. S._
+
+PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS                                      "        141
+
+_E. S._
+
+THE CATACOMBS, PARIS                                     "        143
+
+_E. S._
+
+LAON. HOUSES AND TOWER, 1814                             "        161
+
+_E. S._
+
+BERRY AU BAC                                             "        164
+
+_E. S._
+
+VERDUN. BRIDGE                                           "        168
+
+_E. Stanley._
+
+FRENCH DILIGENCE                                         "        193
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH SHIPS                                              "        199
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT                          "        219
+
+_E. S._
+
+GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME                "        223
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH TABLE D'HOTE                                       "        226
+
+_E. S._
+
+OLD HOUSES, SAARDAM                                      "        228
+
+_E. S._
+
+PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM                         "        230
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH FISHERMEN                                          "        233
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH CARRIAGE                                           "        234
+
+_E. S._
+
+CORN MILLS AT VERNON                                     "        247
+
+_E. S._
+
+FRENCH CABRIOLET                                         "        260
+
+_E. S._
+
+HOUGOUMONT                                               "        263
+
+_E. S._
+
+INTERIOR OF HOUGOUMONT                                   "        265
+
+_E. S._
+
+LA BELLE ALLIANCE                                        "        267
+
+_E. S._
+
+WATERLOO                                                 "        270
+
+_E. S._
+
+GHENT. ST. NICHOLAS                                      "        274
+
+_E. S._
+
+PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO            "        276
+
+_E. S._
+
+PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS                "        300
+
+_E. S._
+
+THE GREAT GREEN COACH                                    "        306
+
+_E. S._
+
+ALDERLEY RECTORY                                           _page_ 308
+
+
+
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY
+
+
+The letters which are collected in this volume were written from abroad
+during the opening years of the nineteenth century, at three different
+periods: after the Peace of Amiens in 1802 and 1803, after the Peace of
+Paris in 1814, and in the year following Waterloo, June, 1816.
+
+The writer, Edward Stanley, was for thirty-three years an active country
+clergyman, and for twelve years more a no less active bishop, at a time
+when such activity was uncommon, though not so rare as is sometimes now
+supposed.
+
+Although a member of one of the oldest Cheshire families, he did not
+share the opinions of his county neighbours on public questions, and his
+voice was fearlessly raised on behalf of causes which are now
+triumphant, and against abuses which are now forgotten, but which
+acutely needed champions and reformers a hundred years ago.
+
+His foreign journeys, and more especially the first of them, had a large
+share in determining the opinions which he afterwards maintained against
+great opposition from many of his own class and profession. The sight of
+France still smarting under the effects of the Reign of Terror, and of
+other countries still sunk in Mediævalism, helped to make him a Liberal
+with "a passion for reform and improvement, but without a passion for
+destruction."
+
+He was born in 1779, the second son and youngest child of Sir John
+Stanley, the Squire of Alderley in Cheshire, and of his wife Margaret
+Owen (the Welsh heiress of Penrhos in Holyhead Island), who was one of
+the "seven lovely Peggies," well known in Anglesey society in the middle
+of the eighteenth century.
+
+The pictures of Edward Stanley and his mother, which still hang on the
+walls of her Anglesey home, show that he inherited the brilliant Welsh
+colouring, marked eyebrows and flashing dark eyes that gave force as
+well as beauty to her face. From her, too, came the romantic Celtic
+imagination and fiery energy which enabled him to find interests
+everywhere, and to make his mark in a career which was not the one he
+would have chosen.
+
+[Illustration: _Margaret Owen, Lady Stanley.
+
+n. 1742 ob. 1816._]
+
+"In early years" (so his son the Dean of Westminster records) "he had
+acquired a passion for the sea, which he cherished down to the time of
+his entrance at college, and which never left him through life. It first
+originated, as he believed, in the delight which he experienced, when
+between three and four years of age, on a visit to the seaport of
+Weymouth; and long afterwards he retained a vivid recollection of the
+point where he caught the first sight of a ship, and shed tears because
+he was not allowed to go on board. So strongly was he possessed by the
+feeling thus acquired, that as a child he used to leave his bed and
+sleep on the shelf of a wardrobe, for the pleasure of imagining himself
+in a berth on board a man-of-war.... The passion was overruled by
+circumstances beyond his control, but it gave a colour to his whole
+after-life. He never ceased to retain a keen interest in everything
+relating to the navy.... He seemed instinctively to know the history,
+character, and state of every ship and every officer in the service. Old
+naval captains were often astonished at finding in him a more accurate
+knowledge than their own of when, where, how, and under whom, such and
+such vessels had been employed. The stories of begging impostors
+professing to be shipwrecked seamen were detected at once by his
+cross-examinations. The sight of a ship, the society of sailors, the
+embarkation on a voyage, were always sufficient to inspirit and delight
+him wherever he might be."
+
+His life, when at his mother's home on the Welsh coast, only increased
+this liking, and till he went to Cambridge in 1798 his education had not
+been calculated to prepare him for a clerical life. He never received
+any instruction in classics; of Greek and Latin and mathematics he knew
+nothing, and owing to his schools and tutors being constantly changed,
+his general knowledge was of a desultory sort.
+
+His force of character, great perseverance and ambition to excel are
+shown in the strenuous manner in which he overcame all these obstacles,
+and at the close of his college career at St. John's, Cambridge, became
+a wrangler in the Mathematical Tripos of 1802.
+
+After a year passed in foreign travel Edward Stanley returned home at
+his brother's request, and took command of the Alderley Volunteers--a
+corps of defence raised by him on the family estate in expectation of a
+French invasion.
+
+In 1803 he was ordained and became curate of Windlesham, in Surrey.
+There he remained until he was presented by his father in 1805 to the
+living of Alderley, where he threw himself enthusiastically into his
+work.
+
+Alderley parish had long been neglected, and there was plenty of scope
+for the young Rector.
+
+Before he came, the clerk used to go to the churchyard stile to see
+whether there were any more coming to church, for there were seldom
+enough to make a congregation, but before Edward Stanley left, his
+parish was one of the best organised of the day. He set on foot schemes
+of education throughout the county as well as at Alderley, and was
+foremost in all reforms.
+
+The Chancellor of the diocese wrote of him: "He inherited from his
+family strong Whig principles, which he always retained, and he never
+shrank from advocating those maxims of toleration which at that time
+formed the chief watchwords of the Whig party."
+
+He was the first who distinctly saw and boldly advocated the advantages
+of general education for the people, and set the example of the extent
+to which general knowledge might be communicated in a parochial school.
+
+"To analyse the actual effects of his ministrations on the people would
+be difficult, ... but the general result was what might have been
+expected. Dissent was all but extinguished. The church was filled, the
+communicants many."
+
+He helped to found a Clerical Society, which promoted friendly
+intercourse with clergy holding various views, and was never afraid of
+avowing his opinions on subjects he thought vital, lest he should in
+consequence become unpopular.
+
+He grudged no trouble about anything he undertook, and the people
+rejoiced when they heard "the short, quick tramp of his horse's feet as
+he went galloping up their lanes." The sick were visited and cheered,
+and the children kindly cared for in and out of school.
+
+It was said of him that "whenever there was a drunken fight in the
+village and he knew of it, he would always come out to stop it--there
+was such a spirit in him."
+
+Tidings were once brought to him of a riotous crowd, which had assembled
+to witness a desperate prize fight, adjourned to the outskirts of his
+parish, and which the respectable inhabitants were unable to disperse.
+"The whole field" (so one of the humbler neighbours represented it) "was
+filled and all the trees round about, when in about a quarter of an hour
+I saw the Rector coming up the road on his little black horse as quick
+as lightning, and I trembled for fear they should harm him. He rode
+into the field and just looked round as if he thought the same, to see
+who there was that would be on his side. But it was not needed; he rode
+into the midst of the crowd and in one moment it was all over. There was
+a great calm; the blows stopped; it was as if they would all have wished
+to cover themselves up in the earth. All from the trees they dropped
+down directly. No one said a word and all went away humbled."
+
+The next day the Rector sent for the two men, not to scold them, but to
+speak to them, and sent them each away with a Bible. The effect on the
+neighbourhood was very great, and put a stop to the practice which had
+been for some time prevalent in the adjacent districts.
+
+His influence was increased by his early knowledge of the people, and by
+the long connection of his family with the place.
+
+Two years after Edward had accepted the incumbency, his father died in
+London, but he had long before given up living in Cheshire, and Alderley
+Park had been occupied at his desire by his eldest son, afterwards Sir
+John, who had made his home there since his marriage in 1796.
+
+Both the Stanley brothers married remarkable women. Lady Maria Josepha
+Holroyd, Sir John's wife, was the elder daughter of the first Lord
+Sheffield, the friend and biographer of Gibbon, and her strong
+personality impressed every one who met her.
+
+Catherine, wife of the Rector, was the daughter of the Rev. Oswald
+Leycester, of Stoke Rectory, in Shropshire. Her father was one of the
+Leycesters of Toft House, only a few miles from Alderley, and at Toft
+most of Catherine's early years were spent. She was engaged to Edward
+Stanley before she was seventeen, but did not marry him till nearly two
+years later, in 1810.
+
+During the interval she spent some time in London with Sir John and Lady
+Maria Stanley, and in the literary society of the opening years of the
+nineteenth century she was much sought after for her charm and
+appreciativeness, and for what Sydney Smith called her "porcelain
+understanding." The wits and lions of the Miss Berrys' parties vied with
+each other in making much of her; Rogers and Scott delighted in her
+conversation--in short, every one agreed, as her sister-in-law Maria
+wrote, that "in Kitty Leycester Edward will indeed have a treasure."
+
+After her marriage she kept up with her friends by active correspondence
+and by annual visits to London. Still, "to the outside world she was
+comparatively unknown; but there was a quiet wisdom, a rare
+unselfishness, a calm discrimination, a firm decision which made her
+judgment and her influence felt through the whole circle in which she
+lived." Her power and charm, coupled with her husband's, made Alderley
+Rectory an inspiring home to their children, several of whom inherited
+talent to a remarkable degree.
+
+Her sister Maria[1] writes from Hodnet, the home of the poet Heber: "I
+want to know all you have been doing since the day that bore me away
+from happy Alderley. Oh! the charm of a rectory inhabited by a Reginald
+Heber or an Edward Stanley!"
+
+That Rectory and its surroundings have been perfectly described in the
+words of the author of "Memorials of a Quiet Life"[2]: "A low house,
+with a verandah forming a wide balcony for the upper storey, where
+bird-cages hung among the roses; its rooms and passages filled with
+pictures, books, and old carved oak furniture. In a country where the
+flat pasture lands of Cheshire rise suddenly to the rocky ridge of
+Alderley Edge, with the Holy Well under an overhanging cliff; its
+gnarled pine-trees, its storm-beaten beacon tower ready to give notice
+of an invasion, and looking far over the green plain to the smoke which
+indicates in the horizon the presence of the great manufacturing towns."
+
+There was constant intercourse between the Park and the Rectory, and the
+two families with a large circle of friends led most interesting and
+busy lives. The Rector took delight in helping his seven nieces with
+their Italian and Spanish studies, in fostering their love of poetry and
+natural history, and in developing the minds of his own young children.
+He wrote plays for them to act and birthday odes for them to recite.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLIGHT OF INTELLECT
+
+Skit on the recent discovery of the motive power of steam.--E. Stanley.
+
+_To face p. 17._]
+
+Legends of the countryside, domestic tragedies and comedies were turned
+into verse, whether it were the Cheshire legend of the Iron Gates or the
+fall of Sir John Stanley and his spectacles into the Alderley mere, the
+discovery of a butterfly or the loss of "a superfine piece of Bala
+flannel."
+
+His caricatures illustrated his droll ideas, as in his sketches of the
+six "Ologies from Entomology to Apology." His witty and graceful
+"Bustle's Banquet" or the "Dinner of the Dogs" made a trio with the
+popular poems then recently published of the "Butterfly's Ball" and "The
+Peacock at Home."
+
+    "And since Insects give Balls and Birds are so gay,
+    'Tis high time to prove that we Dogs have our day."
+
+He wrote a "Familiar History of Birds," illustrated by many personal
+observations, for throughout his life he never lost a chance of watching
+wild bird life. In his early days he had had special opportunities of
+doing so among the rocks and caverns of Holyhead Island. He tells of the
+myriads of sea-birds who used to haunt the South Stack Rock there, in
+the days when it was almost inaccessible; and of their dispersal by the
+building of the first lighthouse there in 1808, when for a time they
+deserted it and never returned in such numbers.
+
+His own family at Alderley Rectory consisted of three sons and two
+daughters.
+
+The eldest son, Owen, had his father's passion for the sea, and was
+allowed to follow his bent. His scientific tastes led him to adopt the
+surveying branch of his profession, and in 1836, when appointed to the
+_Terror_ on her expedition to the North Seas, he had charge of the
+astronomical and magnetic operations.
+
+When in command of the _Britomart_, in 1840, he secured the North Island
+of New Zealand to the English by landing and hoisting the British flag,
+having heard that a party of French emigrants intended to land that day.
+They did so, but under the protection of the Union Jack.
+
+In 1846 Owen Stanley commanded the _Rattlesnake_ in an important and
+responsible expedition to survey the unknown coast of New Guinea; this
+lasted four years and was very successful, but the great strain and the
+shock of his brother Charles' death at Hobart Town, at this time, were
+too much for him. He died suddenly on board his ship at Sydney in 1850,
+"after thirty-three years' arduous service in every clime."
+
+Professor Huxley, in whose arms he breathed his last, was surgeon to
+this expedition, and his first published composition was an article
+describing it. He speaks of Owen Stanley thus: "Of all those who were
+actively engaged upon the survey, the young commander alone was destined
+to be robbed of his just rewards; he has raised an enduring monument in
+his works, and his epitaph shall be the grateful thanks of many a
+mariner threading his way among the mazes of the Coral Seas."
+
+The second and most distinguished of the three sons was Arthur Penrhyn
+Stanley, of whom it was said "that in the wideness of his sympathies,
+the broadness of his toleration, and the generosity of his temperament
+the brilliant Dean of Westminster was a true son of his father, the
+Bishop of Norwich."
+
+The third son, Charles Edward, a young officer in the Royal Engineers,
+who had done good work in the Ordnance Survey of Wales, and was already
+high in his profession, was suddenly cut off by fever at his official
+post in Tasmania in 1849.
+
+The eldest daughter, Mary, had great powers of organisation, was a keen
+philanthropist and her father's right hand at Norwich. In 1854 she took
+charge of a detachment of nurses who followed Miss Nightingale's pioneer
+band to the East, and worked devotedly for the Crimean sick and wounded
+at the hospital at Koulalee.
+
+Katherine, the youngest daughter, a most original character, married Dr.
+Vaughan, headmaster of Harrow, Master of the Temple, and Dean of
+Llandaff. She survived her whole family and lived till 1899.
+
+The home at Alderley lasted for thirty-three years, during which Edward
+Stanley had changed the whole face of the parish and successfully
+organised many schemes of improvement in the conditions of the working
+classes in his neighbourhood. He could now leave his work to other
+hands, and felt that his energies required a wider field, so that when
+in 1838 Lord Melbourne offered him the See of Norwich he was induced to
+accept the offer, though only "after much hesitation and after a severe
+struggle, which for a time almost broke down his usual health and
+sanguine spirit."
+
+"It would be vain and useless," he said, "to speak to others of what it
+cost me to leave Alderley"; but to his new sphere he carried the same
+zeal and indomitable energy which had ever characterised him, and gained
+the affection of many who had shuddered at the appointment of a "Liberal
+Bishop."
+
+At Norwich his work was very arduous and often discouraging. He came in
+the dawn of the Victorian age to attack a wall of customs and abuses
+which had arisen far back in the early Georgian era, with no hereditary
+connection or influence in the diocese to counteract the odium that he
+incurred as a new-comer by the institution of changes which he deemed
+necessary.
+
+It was no wonder that for three or four years he had to stem a steady
+torrent of prejudice and more or less opposition; but though his
+broadminded views were often the subject of criticism, his bitterest
+opponents could not withstand the genial, kindly spirit in which he met
+their objections.
+
+"At the time of his entrance upon his office party feeling was much more
+intense than it has been in later years, and of this the county of
+Norfolk presented, perhaps, as strong examples as could be found in any
+part of the kingdom."
+
+The bishop was "a Whig in politics and a staunch supporter of a Whig
+ministry," but in all the various questions where politics and theology
+cross one another he took the free and comprehensive instead of the
+precise and exclusive views, and to impress them on others was one chief
+interest of his new position.
+
+The indifference to party which he displayed, both in social matters and
+in his dealings with his clergy, tended to alienate extreme partisans of
+whatever section, and at one time caused him even to be unpopular with
+the lower classes of Norwich in spite of his sympathies.
+
+The courage with which the Rector had quelled the prize fight at
+Alderley shone out again in the Bishop. "I remember," says an
+eye-witness, "seeing Bishop Stanley, on a memorable occasion, come out
+of the Great Hall of St. Andrew's, Norwich. The Chartist mob, who lined
+the street, saluted the active, spare little Bishop with hooting and
+groans. He came out alone and unattended till he was followed by me and
+my brother, determined, as the saying is, 'to see him safe home,' for
+the mob was highly excited and brutal. Bishop Stanley marched along ten
+yards, then turned sharp round and fixed his eagle eyes on the mob, and
+then marched ten yards more and turned round again rapidly and gave the
+same hawk-like look."
+
+His words and actions must often have been startling to his
+contemporaries; when temperance was a new cause he publicly spoke in
+support of the Roman Catholic Father Mathew, who had promoted it in
+Ireland; when the idea of any education for the masses was not
+universally accepted he advocated admitting the children of Dissenters
+to the National Schools; and when the stage had not the position it now
+holds, he dared to offer hospitality to one of the most distinguished of
+its representatives, Jenny Lind, to mark his respect for her life and
+influence.
+
+For all this he was bitterly censured, but his kindly spirit and
+friendly intercourse with his clergy smoothed the way through apparently
+insurmountable difficulties, and his powerful aid was ever at hand in
+any benevolent movement to advise and organise means of help.
+
+In his home at Norwich the Bishop and Mrs. Stanley delighted to welcome
+guests of every shade of opinion, and one of them, a member of a
+well-known Quaker family, has recorded her impression of her host's
+conversation. "The Bishop talks, darting from one subject to another,
+like one impatient of delay, amusing and pleasant," and he is described
+on coming to Norwich as having "a step as quick, a voice as firm, a
+power of enduring fatigue almost as unbroken as when he traversed his
+parish in earlier days or climbed the precipices of the Alps."
+
+In his public life the liveliness of his own interest in scientific
+pursuits, the ardour with which he would hail any new discovery, the
+vividness of his own observation of Nature would illustrate with an
+unexpected brilliancy the worn-out topics of a formal speech. Few who
+were present at the meeting when the Borneo Mission was first proposed
+to the London public in 1847 can forget the strain of naval ardour with
+which the Bishop offered his heartfelt tribute of moral respect and
+admiration to the heroic exertions of Sir James Brooke.
+
+It was his highest pleasure to bear witness to the merits or to
+contribute to the welfare of British seamen. He seized every opportunity
+of addressing them on their moral and religious duties, and many were
+the rough sailors whose eyes were dimmed with tears among the
+congregations of the crews of the _Queen_ and the _Rattlesnake_, when he
+preached on board those vessels at Plymouth, whither he had accompanied
+his eldest son, Captain Owen Stanley, to witness his embarkation on his
+last voyage.
+
+"The sermon," so the Admiral told Dean Stanley twenty years afterwards,
+"was never forgotten. The men were so crowded that they almost sat on
+one another's shoulders, with such attention and admiration that they
+could scarcely restrain a cheer."
+
+For twelve years his presence was felt as a power for good through the
+length and breadth of his diocese; and after his death, in September,
+1849, his memory was long loved and revered.
+
+"I felt as if a sunbeam had passed through my parish," wrote a clergyman
+from a remote corner of his diocese, after a visit from him, "and had
+left me to rejoice in its genial and cheerful warmth. From that day I
+would have died to serve him; and I believe that not a few of my humble
+flock were animated by the same kind of feeling."
+
+His yearly visits to his former parish of Alderley were looked forward
+to by those he had known and loved during his long parochial
+ministrations as the greatest pleasure of their lives.
+
+"I have been," he writes (in the last year of his life), "in various
+directions over the parish, visiting many welcome faces, laughing with
+the living, weeping over the dying. It is gratifying to see the cordial
+familiarity with which they receive me, and Norwich clergy would
+scarcely know me by cottage fires, talking over old times with their
+hands clasped in mine as an old and dear friend."
+
+Under the light which streams through the stained glass of his own
+cathedral the remains of Bishop Stanley rest in the thoroughfare of the
+great congregation.
+
+"When we were children," said a grey-haired Norfolk rector this very
+year, "our mother never allowed us to walk upon the stone covering
+Bishop Stanley's grave. I have never forgotten it, and would not walk
+upon it even now."
+
+    "We pass; the path that each man trod
+       Is dim, or will be dim, with weeds:
+       What fame is left for human deeds
+     In endless age? It rests with God."
+
+[Illustration: _P. Green, pinx circa 1800. Emery Walker Ph. Sc._
+
+_Edward Stanley._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE
+
+Rouen and its theatres--Painted windows--Paris--Costumes _à la
+Française_--The guillotine--Geneva--Vetturino
+travelling--Italy--Spain--The Ship _John_ of Leith--Gibraltar.
+
+
+In June, 1802, Edward Stanley started on the first of those foreign
+journeys which, throughout his life, continued to be his favourite form
+of holiday.
+
+He had just left Cambridge, having obtained a brilliant degree, and
+before taking Orders he set out with his college friend, Edward
+Hussey,[3] on the Grand Tour which was then considered necessary to
+complete a liberal education.
+
+They were fortunate in the moment of their journey, for the Treaty of
+Amiens, which had been concluded only a few months before, had enabled
+Englishmen to tour safely in France for the first time for many years;
+and every scene in France was full of thrilling interest. The marks of
+the Reign of Terror were still plainly to be seen, and the new order of
+things which the First Consul had inaugurated was only just beginning.
+
+It was an epoch-making journey to a young man fresh from college, and
+Edward Stanley was deeply impressed by what he saw.
+
+He could compare his own experiences with those of his brother and
+father, who had been in France before the Revolution, and of his
+sister-in-law, Maria Josepha, who had travelled there just before the
+Reign of Terror; and in view of the destruction which had taken place
+since then, he was evidently convinced that Napoleon's iron hand was the
+greatest boon to the country.
+
+He and his companion had the good fortune to leave France before the
+short interval of peace ended abruptly, and they were therefore saved
+from the fate of hundreds of their friends and fellow-travellers who had
+thronged across the Channel in 1802, and who were detained by Napoleon
+for years against their will.
+
+Edward Stanley and Edward Hussey left France at the end of June, and
+went on to Switzerland, Italy, and finally to Spain, where the
+difficulties and dangers which they met, reveal the extraordinary dearth
+of personal comfort and civilised habits among that nation at the time.
+
+The dangers and discomforts did not, however, interfere with the
+interest and pleasure of the writer who describes them. Then and ever
+after, travelling was Edward Stanley's delight, and he took any
+adventure in the spirit of the French song--
+
+    "Je suis touriste
+     Quel gai métier."
+
+His letters to his father and brother show that he lost no opportunity
+of getting information and of recording what he saw; and he began on
+this journey the first of a long series of sketchbooks, by which he
+illustrated his later journeys so profusely.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Father, Sir John T. Stanley, Bart._
+
+ROUEN, _June 11, 1802_.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,--You have already heard that I arrived here, & have been
+fortunate in every thing since I left England. Our passage from Brighton
+to Dieppe was short and pleasant, and so was our stay at Dieppe, which
+we left the morning after we arrived in it. I never saw France before
+the Revolution, & therefore cannot judge of the Contrasted appearance of
+its towns, but this I can safely say, that I never before saw such
+strong marks of Poverty both in the houses & Inhabitants. I have as yet
+seen nothing like a Gentleman; probably many may affect the dress and
+manners of the lower Orders, in order to screen themselves & may
+consider that an outward show of Poverty is the only way of securing
+what Riches they have. I can conceive nothing so melancholy.
+
+When I saw fine seats without Windows or with shattered Roofs, &
+everywhere falling to decay, I could not help thinking of their
+unfortunate Owners, who, even if they were lucky enough to be reinstated
+in their possessions, might fear to repair their Places, lest an
+Appearance of comfort might tempt the Government to seize their Effects.
+The only Buildings at all tolerable are the Barracks, which in general
+are large and well taken care of, & plenty of them there are in every
+town and village. Every Person is here a Soldier, ready to turn out at a
+moment's warning. This Town is in a flourishing State at present, tho'
+during the war not a single ship made its appearance in its Ports; now
+there are a great number of Vessels, chiefly Dutch. The Trade is Cotton,
+for the Manufactory of Stuffs and Handkerchiefs. It is said to be one of
+the dearest towns in France; certainly I have not found things very
+cheap. We were at the Play last night. An Opera called "La Dot," and an
+after piece called "Blaise & Bullet" were performed. The Actors were
+capital, at Drury Lane they could not have acted better. The House is
+very large for a Country Theatre and very pretty, but so shockingly
+filthy and offensive, that I wondered any Person could go often, but
+habit, I suppose, reconciles everything. There were a great many
+officers in the Boxes, a haughty set of beings, who treat their
+Compatriotes in a very scurvy way. They are the Kings of the place and
+do what they please. Indeed, we had a fine Specimen of Liberty during
+the Performances. An Actress had been sent to Rouen from Paris, a
+wretched Performer she was, but from Paris she came, and the Managers
+were obliged to accept her & make her act. The Consequence was, she soon
+got hissed, and a Note was thrown on the Stage; whatever it was they
+were not permitted to read or make it public till they had shewn it to
+the Officer of Police, who in the present Case would not let them read
+it. The hissing was, however, continued from Corners of the House, & one
+man who sate near us talked in a high style about the People being
+imposed on, when in the middle of his Speech I saw this Man of Liberty
+jump out of the Box and disappear in an Instant. I opened the Box door
+to see what was the cause, when lo! the Lobby was filled with Soldiers,
+with their Bayonets fix'd, and the officer was looking about for any
+Person who might dare to whistle or hiss, and silent and contented were
+the Audience the rest of the Performance. I cannot help mentioning a
+Speech I heard this very evening at the Play. A Man was sitting near a
+Lady & very angry he was, & attempted often to hiss, but was for some
+time kept quiet by the Lady. At last he lost all Patience and exclaimed,
+"Ma Foi, Madame, Je ferai ici comme si jétais en Angleterre où on fait
+tout ce qu'on plait." And away he went to hiss; with what effect his
+determination a l'Angloise was attended, I have mentioned. I afterwards
+entered into conversation with the Lady, & when she told me about the
+Police Officer not giving permission to read the note, she added,
+looking at us, "to you, Gentlemen, this must be a second Comedy." Last
+night (Sunday) I went to a Fête about a mile from the Town; we paid 1s.
+3d. each. It concluded with a grand Firework. It was a sort of Vauxhall.
+In one part of the Gardens they were dancing Cotillons, in another
+swinging. In another part bands of Music. I was never so much
+entertained as with the Dancers; most of them were Children. One little
+set in a Cotillon danced in a Style I could not have fancied possible;
+you will think I am telling a _Traveller's_ Story when I tell you I
+thought they performed nearly as well as I could have seen at the Opera.
+Here, as at the Theatre, Soldiers kept every body in awe; a strong party
+of Dragoons were posted round the Gardens with their horses saddled
+close at hand ready to act. I din'd yesterday at a Table d'Hôte, with
+five French Officers. In my life I never saw such ill bred Blackguards,
+dirty in their way of eating, overbearing in their Conversation, tho'
+they never condescended to address themselves to us, and more proud and
+aristocratical than any of the _ci-devant Noblesse_ could ever have
+been. From this Moment I believe all the Accounts I have heard from our
+officers of the French officers who were prisoners during the War. They
+were always insolent, and excepting in some few cases, ungratefull in
+the extreme for any kindness shewn to them.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE, PARIS, JUNE, 1802.
+
+_To face p. 31._]
+
+PARIS, _June 17th_.
+
+The Day before yesterday I arrived in this Metropolis. We left Rouen in
+a Diligence & had a pleasant Journey; the Country we passed over was
+throughout extremely fertile; whatever Scarcity exists at present in
+France, it must be of short duration, as the Harvest promises to be
+abundant, and as every Field is corn land, the quantity of Grain will be
+immense. Government has indeed now taken every precaution. The Ports of
+Rouen & Dieppe were filled with Ships from Embden & Dantzig with Corn.
+Our Diligence was accompanied all the Night by a Guard of Dragoons, and
+we passed every now and then parties of Foot Soldiers on the Watch. The
+reason was, that the road had lately been infested with Robbers, who
+attacked the Public Carriages in great numbers, sometimes to the Amount
+of 40 together. They in general behaved well to the Passengers,
+requiring only any Money belonging to Government which might happen to
+be in the Carriage. At present as the Leader is taken and the Band
+dispersed, there is no Danger, but it is a good excuse to keep a Number
+of Troops in that part of the Country. We entered Paris by St. Denis,
+but the fine Church and Royal Palace are not now as they were in your
+time. The Former is in part unroofed and considerably damaged--the
+latter is a Barrack and from its outward appearance seems to have
+suffered much in the Revolution. The City of Paris on entering it by no
+means strikes a stranger. In your time it must have been but tolerable,
+now it is worse, as every other house seems to be falling down or to be
+deserted. We have taken our abode in the Rue de Vivienne at the Hôtel de
+Boston, a central Situation and the house tolerably dear. The poor
+Hussey suffered so much from a Nest of Buggs the first night, that he
+after enduring them to forage on his body for an Hour, left his Bed &
+passed the night on a sofa. A propos, I must beg to inform Mr. Hugh
+Leycester that I paid Attention to the Conveyances on the road & think
+that he will have no reason to complain of them; the vehicles are not
+quite so good as in England nor are the Horses, but both are still very
+tolerable. The Inns I slept at were very good, and the roads by no means
+bad. I have been to a Play every Night since my arrival in Paris and
+shall continue so to do till I have seen all the theatres. The first
+evening I went to the "Théâtre de la République"; I am told it is the
+best. At least the first Actors performed there. It is not to be
+compared with any of ours in style of fitting up. The want of light
+which first strikes a Stranger's eye on entering a foreign Play-house
+has its Advantage. It shews off the Performers and induces the Audience
+to pay more Attention to ye Stage, but the brilliant Effect we are used
+to find on entering our Theatres is wanting. This House is not fitted up
+with any taste. I thought the theatre at Rouen preferable. The famous
+Talma, the Kemble, acted in a Tragedy, & Mme. Petit, the Mrs. Siddons
+of Paris, performed. The former, I think, must have seen Kemble, as he
+resembles him both in person and style of acting, but I did not admire
+him so much. In his silent Acting, however, he was very great. Mme.
+Petit acted better than any tragic Actress I have ever seen, excepting
+Mrs. Siddons. After the Play last Night I went to the Frascati, a sort
+of Vauxhall where you pay nothing on entering, but are expected to take
+some refreshments. This, Mr. Palmer told me, was the Lounge of the Beau
+Monde, who were all to be found here after the Opera & Plays. We have
+nothing of the sort in England, therefore I shall not attempt to
+describe it. We staid here about an hour. The Company was numerous, & I
+suppose the best, at least it was better than any I had seen at the
+Theatres or in the Walks, but it appeared to me to be very bad. The Men
+I shall say nothing more of, they are all the same. They come to all
+Places in dirty Neckcloths or Pocket Handkerchiefs tied round their
+necks & most of them have filthy great Coats & Boots, in short, Dress
+amongst the Bucks (& I am told that within this Month or two they are
+very much improved) seems to be quite out of the Question. As for the
+Ladies, O mon Dieu! Madame Récamier's[4] Dress at Boodles was by no
+means extraordinary. My sister can describe that and then you may form
+some idea of them. By what I can judge from outward appearance, the
+Morals of Paris must be at a very low ebb. I may perhaps see more of
+them, when I go to the Opera & Parties. I have a thousand things more to
+say, but have no room. This Letter has been written at such out of the
+way times & by little bits at a time, that I know not how you will
+connect it, but I have not a moment to spare in the regular Course of
+the Day. It is now between 6 & 7 o'Clock in the Morning, and as I cannot
+find my Cloaths am sitting in a Dress à la Mode d'une Dame Française
+till Charles comes up with them. Paris is full of English, amongst
+others I saw Montague Matthews at the Frascati. I shall stay here till
+5th July, as my chance of seeing Buonaparte depends on my staying till
+4th, when he reviews the Consular Guard. He is a fine fellow by all
+accounts; a Military Government when such a head as his manages
+everything cannot be called a Grievance. Indeed, it is productive of so
+much order and regularity, that I begin not to dislike it so much. At
+the Theatres you have no disturbance. In the streets Carriages are kept
+in order--in short, it is supreme and seems to suit this Country vastly
+well, but God forbid I should ever witness it in England. You may write
+to me and tell others so to do till the 25th of June. Adieu; I cannot
+tell when I shall write again. This you know is a Family Epistle,
+therefore Farewell to you all.
+
+ED. STANLEY.
+
+I have just paid a visit to Madame de D. She received me very
+graciously, & strongly pressed me to stay till 14th of July to be
+present at the Grand Day. She says Paris is not now worth seeing, but
+then every Person will be in Town. If there is no other way of seeing
+Buonaparte I believe I shall stay--but I do not wish it--I shall prefer
+Geneva.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother, J. T. Stanley._
+
+HOTEL DE BOSTON, RUE VIVIENNE,
+_June 21, 1802_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,-- ... I sailed from Brighton on the evening of 8th and
+was wafted by a fine Breeze towards this Coast, which we made early on
+the morning of 9th, but owing to the tide, which had drifted us too much
+to leeward of Dieppe, we were unable to land before noon. We were
+carried before the Officer of the municipality, who after taking down
+our names, ages, & destination, left us to ramble about at pleasure.
+Whatever Dieppe might have been before the Revolution, it is now a
+melancholy-looking place. Large houses falling to ruin. Inhabitants
+poor, Streets full of Soldiers, & Churches turned into Stables,
+Barracks, or Magazines. We staid there but one night & then proceeded in
+one of their Diligences to Rouen. These Conveyances you of course have
+often seen; they are not as Speedy in their motion as an English Mail
+Coach, or as easy as a Curricle, but we have found them very convenient,
+& shall not complain of our travelling accommodation if we are always
+fortunate enough to meet with these vehicles. At Rouen we staid four
+days, as the Town is large and well worth seeing; I then made an attempt
+to procure you some painted glass; as almost all the Churches and all
+the Convents are destroyed, their fine windows are neglected, & the
+panes broken or carried off by almost every person. The _Stable_ from
+whence our Diligence started had some beautiful windows, and had I
+thought of it in time I think I might have sent you some. As it was I
+went to the owner of the Churches & asked him if he would sell any of
+the windows. Now tho' ever since he has had possession of them Everybody
+has been permitted to demolish at pleasure, he no sooner found that a
+Stranger was anxious to procure what to him was of no value, & what he
+had hitherto thought worth nothing, than he began to think he might take
+advantage & therefore told me that he would give me an answer in a few
+days if I would wait till he could see what they were worth. As I was
+going the next morning I could not hear the result, but I think you
+could for one guinea purchase nearly a whole Church window, at least it
+may be worth your while to send to Liverpool to know if any Ship is at
+any time going there. The Proprietor of these Churches is a Banker, by
+name Tezart; he lives in la Rue aux Ours.
+
+I arrived in Paris on the 15th, and intend staying even till the 14th of
+July if I cannot before then see the chief Consul. Hitherto I have been
+unfortunate; I have in vain attended at the Thuilleries when the
+Consular guard is relieved, and seated myself opposite his box at the
+Opera. On the 4th of July, however, there is a Review of his Guard, when
+he always appears, then I shall do my utmost to get a view of him. I
+cannot be introduced as I have not been at our Court, and no King was
+ever more fond of Court Etiquette than Buonaparte. He resides in the
+Thuilleries; opposite to his windows is the place de Carousel, which he
+has Separated from the great Area by a long Iron railing with three
+Gates. On each side of the 2 side Gates are placed the famous brazen
+horses from Venice, the middle Gate has 2 Lodges, where are stationed
+Horse Guards. Above this Gate are four Gilt Spears on which are perched
+the Cock & a Civic wreath which I at first took for the Roman Eagle,
+borne before their Consuls, resembling it in every other respect. These
+Gates are shut every night and also on every Review day. Paris, like all
+the Country, swarms with Soldiers; in Every Street there is a Barrack.
+In Paris alone there are upwards of 15 thousand men. I must say nothing
+of the Government. It is highly necessary in France for every person,
+particularly Strangers, to be careful in delivering their opinions; I
+can only say that the _Slavery_ of it is infinitely more to my taste
+than the _Freedom_ of France. The public Exhibitions (and indeed almost
+Every thing is public) are on a scale of Liberality which should put
+England to the blush. Everything is open without money. The finest
+library I ever saw is open Daily to Every person. You have but to ask
+for any book, & you are furnished with it, and accommodated with table,
+pens, ink, & paper. The Louvre, the finest Collection of pictures and
+Statues in the world, is likewise open, & not merely open to view. It is
+filled, excepting on the public days, with artists who are at liberty to
+copy anything they please. Where in England can we boast of anything
+like this? Our British Museum is only to be seen by interest, & then
+shewn in a very cursory manner. Our Public Libraries at the Universities
+are equally difficult of access. It is the most politic thing the
+Government could have done. The Arts are here encouraged in a most
+liberal manner. Authors, Painters, Sculptors, and, in short, all persons
+in France, have opportunities of improving themselves which can not be
+found in any other Country in the World, not even in Britain. You may
+easily conceive that I who am fond of painting was most highly
+Entertained in viewing the Great Gallery of the Louvre, & yet you will,
+I am sure, think my taste very deficient when I tell you that I do not
+admire the finest pictures of Raphael, Titian, Guido, and Paul Veronese,
+so much as I do those of Rubens, Vandyck, & le Brun, nor the landscapes
+of Claude and Poussin so much as Vernet's. Rembrandt, Gerard Dow & his
+pupils Mieris and Metsu please me more than any other artists. In the
+whole Collection they have but one of Salvator's, but that one, I think,
+is preferable to all Raphael's. I have not yet seen statues enough to be
+judge of their beauties. The Apollo of Belvidere & the celebrated
+Laocoon lose, therefore, much of their Excellence when seen by me. There
+is still a fine Collection in the Palace of Versailles, but the view of
+that once Royal Palace excites the most melancholy ideas. The furniture
+was all sold by auction, & nothing is left but the walls and their
+pictures. The Gardens are much neglected, & will soon, unless the Consul
+again makes it a royal residence, be quite ruined. You have, I daresay,
+often heard that the Morals & Society of Paris were very bad; indeed,
+you have heard nothing but the truth. As for the men, they are the
+dirtiest set of fellows I ever saw, and most of them, especially the
+Officers, very unlike Gentlemen. The dress of the women, with few
+exceptions, is highly indecent; in London, even in Drury Lane, I have
+seen few near so bad. Before I left England, I had heard, but never
+believed, that some Ladies paraded the streets in men's Clothes. It is
+singular that in the first genteel-looking person I spoke to in Paris to
+ask my way, I was answered by what I then perceived a lady in Breeches &
+boots, since when I have seen several at the Theatres, at the Frascati &
+fashionable lounges of the evening, & in the Streets and public walks! I
+have not heard from you since I left England. Excepting the letter which
+was forwarded from Grosvenor Place. I hope to hear at Geneva, where I
+shall go as soon as the great Consul will permit me by shewing himself.
+The Country is in the finest state possible, and their weather most
+favourable. They have had a scarcity of corn lately, but the approaching
+Harvest will most assuredly remove that. Adieu; I hope Mrs. Stanley has
+already received a very trifling present from me; I only sent it because
+it was classic wood. I mean the necklace made of Milton's mulberry-tree.
+I brought the wood from Christ's College Garden, in Cambridge, where
+Milton himself planted it.
+
+Believe me,
+
+Yours sincerely,
+
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+_From Edward Stanley to his Father and Mother._
+
+LYONS, _July 20, 1802_.
+
+I shall not write you a very long letter as I intend to send you a more
+particular account of myself from Geneva, for which place we propose
+setting out to-morrow, not by the Diligence, but by the Vetturino, a
+mode of travelling which, of course, you are well acquainted with, being
+the usual and almost only method practised throughout Italy unless a
+person has his own carriage. I am to pay £3 10s. for ourselves and
+Suite, but not including bed and provisions. South of the Alps these are
+agreed for.
+
+After every endeavour to see Buonaparte had proved vain, on the 6th of
+July we quitted Paris in a Cabriolet. All this night, and especially
+the next day, we thought we should be broiled to death; the thermometer
+was at 95 the noon of July 7th; as you relish that, you may have some
+idea of the Luxury you would have enjoyed with us.
+
+We arrived at Troyes on the evening of the 7th, an old town in
+Champagne. People civil and excellent Living, as the Landlord was a
+_ci-devant_ Head cook to a convent of Benedictines, but Hussey and
+Charles were almost devoured in the Night by our old enemies the Bugs.
+Hussey was obliged to change his room and sleep all next day. I escaped
+without the least visit, and I am persuaded that if a famine wasted the
+Bugs of the whole Earth, they would sooner perish than touch me.
+
+We left Troyes early on the morning of the 9th, arrived at Chatillon at
+four, and stayed there all night, for the Diligences do not travel so
+fast as in England. We left it at four the next morning, Hussey, as
+usual smarting, and I very little refreshed by sleep, as owing to a
+Compound of Ducks and Chickens who kept up a constant chorus within five
+yards of my bed, a sad noise in the kitchen from which I was barely
+separated, Dogs barking, Waggon Bells ringing, &c., I could scarcely
+close my eyes.
+
+At Dijon, beautiful Dijon, we arrived on the Evening of the 10th. Had I
+known it had been so sweet a Town I should have stayed longer, but we
+had taken our places to Châlons and were obliged to pass on. You, I
+believe, staid some time there, but, alas! how different now! The Army
+of rescue was encamped for some time in its neighbourhood, and the many
+respectable families who lived in or near it rendered it a sad prey to
+the hand of Robespierre. Its Churches and Convents are in a deplorable
+state, even as those of this still more unfortunate Town. The best
+Houses are shut up, and its finest Buildings are occupied by the
+Military. We left on the morning of the 11th, travelled safely (except a
+slight breakdown at our journey's end) to Châlons sur Saône, and on the
+11th went by the water-diligence to Macon, where we stopped to sleep. We
+arrived at dusk, and as we were in a dark staircase exploring our way
+and speaking English, we heard a voice say, "This way, Sir; here is the
+supper." We were quite rejoiced to hear an English voice, particularly
+in such a place.
+
+We soon met the speaker, and passed a most pleasant Hour with him. He
+proved to be a Passenger like ourselves in the Diligence from Lyons
+which met ours here at the Common resting-place. He was a Surgeon of the
+Staff, returning from Egypt, by name Shute. We all three talked
+together, and as loud as we could; the Company, I believe, thought us
+strange Beings. We told him what we could of England in a short time, he
+of the South, and we exchanged every Species of information, and were
+sorry when it was necessary to part.
+
+[Illustration: THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SAÔNE.
+
+_To face p. 43._]
+
+We arrived at Lyons on the 14th, the Day of the Grand Fête. We saw the
+Town Hall illuminated, and a Review on the melancholy Plains of
+Buttereaux, the common Tomb of so many Lyonnese. Here we have remained
+since, but shall probably be at Geneva on the 23rd. I lodge at the Hotel
+de Parc looking into the Place de Ferreant.
+
+The Landlady, to my great surprise, spoke to me in English very
+fluently. She is also a very excellent Spaniard. She has seen better
+days, her husband having been a Merchant, but the Revolution destroyed
+him. She was Prisoner for some time at Liverpool, taken by a Privateer
+belonging to Tarleton and Rigge, who, I am sorry to say, did not behave
+quite so handsomely as they should, the private property not having been
+restored.
+
+Of all the Towns I have seen this has suffered most. All the Châteaux
+and Villas in its most beautiful Environs are shut up. The fine Square
+of St. Louis le Grand, then Belle Cour, now Place Buonaparte, is knocked
+to pieces; the fine Statue is broken and removed, and nothing left that
+could remind you of what it was.
+
+I have been witness to a scene which, of course, my curiosity as a
+Traveller would not let me pass over, but which I hope not to see
+again--an Execution on the Guillotine. Charles saw a man suffer at
+Châlons; we did not know till it was over, but the Machine was still
+standing, and the marks of the Execution very recent. On looking out of
+my window the morning after our arrival here, I saw the dreadful
+Instrument in the Place de Ferreant, and on inquiry found that five men
+were to be beheaded in the morning and two in the evening. They deserved
+their fate; they had robbed some Farmhouses and committed some
+cruelties. In England, however, they would probably have escaped, as the
+evidence was chiefly presumptive. They were brought to the Scaffold from
+the Prison, tied each with his arms behind him and again to each other;
+they were attended by a Priest, not, however, in black, and a party of
+soldiers. The time of execution of the whole five did not exceed five
+minutes. Of all situations in the world, I can conceive of none half so
+terrible as that of the last Prisoner. He saw his companions ascend one
+after another, heard each fatal blow, and saw each Body thrown aside to
+make room for him. I shall never forget his countenance when he
+stretched out his neck on the fatal board. He shut his eyes on looking
+down where the heads of his companions had fallen, and instantly his
+face turned from ghastly paleness to a deep red, and the wire was
+touched and he was no more. Of all Deaths it is far the most easy; not a
+convulsive struggle could be perceived after the blow. The sight is
+horrid in the extreme, though not awful, as no ceremony is used to make
+it so. Those who have daily seen 200 suffer without the least ceremony
+or trial get hardened to the sight.
+
+The mode of Execution in England is not so speedy certainly nor so
+horrid, but it is conducted with a degree of Solemnity that must impress
+the mind most forcibly. I did not see the two who suffered in the
+evening, the morning's business was quite enough to satisfy my
+curiosity.
+
+The next Morning I saw a punishment a degree less shocking, though I
+think the Prisoner's fate was little better than those of the day
+before. He was seated on a Scaffold in the same place for Public View,
+there to remain for six hours and then to be imprisoned in irons for 18
+years, a Term (as he is 41) I think he will not survive.
+
+What with the immediate effects of the Siege and events that followed,
+the Town has suffered so much in its Buildings and inhabitants, that I
+think it will never recover. The Manufactories of silk are just
+beginning to shoot up by slow degrees. Formerly they afforded employment
+to 40,000 men, now not above half that number can be found, and they
+cannot earn so much. Were I a Lyonese I should wish to plant the plains
+of Buttereaux with cypress-trees and close them in with rails. The Place
+had been a scene of too much horror to remain open for Public amusement.
+The fine Hôpital de la Charité, against which the besiegers directed
+their heaviest cannon in spite of the Black ensign, which it is
+customary to hoist over buildings of that nature during a Siege, is much
+damaged, though scarcely so much as I should have expected. The Romantic
+Castle of the Pierre Suisse is no longer to be found, it was destroyed
+early in the troubles together with most of the Roman Antiquities round
+Lyons. I yesterday dined with two more Englishmen at the Table d'hôte;
+they were from the South; one, from his conversation a Navy officer, had
+been absent seven years, and had been in the Garrison of Porte Ferrajo
+in the Isle of Elba, the other an Egyptian Hero. There is also a Colonel
+from the same place whose name I know not.
+
+I heard it was an easy thing to be introduced to the Pope,[5] if letters
+are to be had for our Minister, whose name is Fagan, or something like
+it. Now, as I may if I can get an opportunity when at Geneva to pay a
+visit to Rome and Florence previous to passing the Pyrenees, I should
+like a letter to this Mr. Fagan, if one can be got. As Buonaparte's Pope
+is not, I believe, so particular as the Hero himself with regard to
+introductions, I may perhaps be presented to him. I look forward with
+inexpressible pleasure to my arrival at Geneva, to find myself amongst
+old friends and to meet with, I hope, an immense collection of letters.
+
+The Vineyards promise to be very abundant; of course we tasted some of
+the best when in Burgundy and Champagne. What a country that is! The
+corn to the East of Paris is not so promising as that in Normandy. The
+frosts which we felt in May have extended even more to the South than to
+this Town. The apple-trees of Normandy have suffered most, and the vines
+in the Northern parts of France have also been damaged.... I shall go
+from Geneva to Genoa, and there hold a council of war.
+
+GENEVA.
+
+...Between Lyons and Geneva we supped with the Passengers of a
+Vetturino. Two of these were Officers in the French Service, one of them
+a Swiss, the other a Frenchman. The conversation soon fell upon
+Politics, in which I did not choose to join, but was sufficiently
+entertained in hearing the Discourse. Both agreed in abominating the
+present state of Affairs. The Swiss hated the Consul, because he
+destroyed his Country, the other because he was too like a King. Both
+were Philosophers, and each declared himself to be a Moralist. The
+Frenchman was by far the most vehement of the two, and the Swiss seemed
+to take much pleasure in leading him on. His philosophy seemed to be
+drawn from a source equally pure with his Morality; assuming for his
+Motto his first and favourite Maxim, "que tous les hommes sont égaux par
+les lois de la Nature," &c., he thought himself justified in wishing
+Buonaparte (I was going to say) at the Devil (but I soon found out that
+the existence of that Gentleman was a matter of great doubt with the
+Philosopher) for daring to call himself the Head of the French Republic.
+His hatred of Power was only equalled by his aversion to the English,
+whom he seemed to abhor from the bottom of his heart, so much so, that
+when I attempted to defend the First Consul, he dashed out with a
+Torrent of abuse, and ended by saying, "Et enfin c'est lui qui a fait la
+paix avec l'Angleterre."
+
+I was for some time in doubt what part of the Revolution he preferred,
+but by defending Robespierre, he soon gave me an Idea of his Love of
+Liberty, Morality, Equality, and so forth. I was sorry he retired so
+soon after Supper, as I never was more entertained in my life in so
+short a time as with this little Fellow, as singular in his Figure and
+Dress as in his Manner, and he contrived to be always eating as well as
+talking.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother J, T. Stanley._
+
+_Argonauta_, OFF HYÈRES,
+_Sept. 29, 1802._
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,--Before I left Geneva I firmly intended writing to you,
+but as I left it unexpectedly and sooner than I intended I had not time,
+but this, and all my adventures till I left it, I hope you have already
+heard, as I wrote two letters, one to my Father, the other to my Mother
+before I quitted Geneva. You will no doubt be Surprised, and perhaps
+envy my present situation. Where do you think I am? Why, truly, writing
+on a cot between two 24-pounders in a Spanish 84. You will wonder, I am
+sure, at seeing the date of this letter, and perhaps wish to know by
+what good fortune I found a berth in a Spanish man-of-war, an Event
+which I little expected when I wrote last. I shall begin my story from
+Geneva, and you shall hear my adventures to the present moment. We left
+Geneva in a Vetturino for Turin, a Journey which took up 8 days longer
+than it naturally should have done, but our Coachman was taken ill, & we
+were on his account obliged to travel slowly. But I was not impatient,
+as you will know the Scenery is beautiful; we crossed Mount Cenis,
+which, after St. Bernard's, cannot be called a difficult pass. At Turin
+we stayed 3 days. It is now a melancholy Town, without commerce, &
+decreasing daily in population. The celebrated Jourdan[6] is the ruler
+of the place, & with his wife lives in the King's Palace. From Turin we
+went to Genoa, passing through Country not equal in Scenery, but
+infinitely more interesting than that between Geneva & Turin, every step
+almost having been the scene of battle, and every Town the Object of a
+siege. But the most interesting spot of all was the plain of Marengo,
+near Alessandria. As we travelled in the Diligence I had not so good an
+opportunity of viewing it as I should have had in a Vetturino, but we
+stopped a short time to see the monument which is raised to commemorate
+the victory; it is erected near 2 remarkable spots, one where Desaix[7]
+fell, the other the House from which Buonaparte wrote an account of the
+event to the Directory.
+
+We passed also thro' Novi, every House in which is marked by Shot; that
+unfortunate Town has been three times pillaged during the war. We
+arrived at Genoa on the 10th of Septr., in my opinion the most
+magnificent Town for its size I ever saw. The Palaces are beyond
+conception beautiful, or rather were, for the French Troops are not at
+this moment admitted within the Gates; they are quartered in the Suburb
+in great numbers. As for the new Government, it is easily seen who is at
+the head of it. There is a Doge, to be sure, but his orders come all
+from Paris. While we were waiting there expecting a ship to sail to
+Barcelona, the _Medusa_, English Frigate, came in, and amongst its
+passengers who came with her we found a Cambridge acquaintance, who
+advised us to go without delay to Leghorn as the Spanish Squadron was
+waiting there for the King of Etruria[8] in order to carry him to
+Barcelona. Fortunately the next day an English Brig was going, & in her
+we took our passages; we were fortunate enough to receive a large packet
+of letters from England a few hours before she sailed, which had she
+sailed at the time the Captain intended we should have missed. Will you
+let my sisters know that they arrived safe? I am not without hopes of
+making some use of the interesting letters to Italy, tho' I am now
+steering to the westward. After a good passage of two days we arrived at
+Leghorn and found the Spaniards still there. As soon as I landed I
+delivered a letter to a Mr. Callyer, a Liverpool Gentleman who is
+settled there, & by his means was introduced to the Admiral's first
+Lieut., who promised to secure me a berth in some of the ships. In
+short, here I am in a very fine ship, tho' a horrid sailer. I have now
+given you a short sketch of my tour till arriving at Leghorn; I have
+only to say something of Leghorn and the _Argonauta_. The Town has
+suffered very much by the war, supported nearly as it was by its
+Commerce with England. The inhabitants saw with little pleasure a French
+army take possession of the place & drive away the English. They still
+have a strong force in the town--upwards of 2,000--and its
+fortifications have been dismantled. It is singular enough to see the
+French and Tuscan colours flying together on the same staff. When we
+entered the port the Tuscan Ensign was becalmed & the French flag was
+flying _by itself_. I was much grieved not to be able to visit Florence
+when so near it, but as the Squadron was in daily expectation of sailing
+I did not venture to be absent for 4 days, which the Journey would have
+required. I was therefore obliged to content myself with a view of Pisa,
+which I would not have missed on any account. The leaning Tower is a
+curiosity in itself sufficient to induce a stranger to make a long
+journey to visit it. Here the King of Etruria lived and was hourly
+expected to set out for Leghorn. But his health, as it was believed, was
+in so precarious a State that it was sometimes reported that he would
+not go at all. The Queen, indeed, was in a very critical state, and were
+it not that her children, she being an Infanta of Spain, are entitled to
+a certain sum of money by no means small, provided they were born in
+Spain, it would have been madness in her to have undertaken the voyage;
+indeed, I think it highly probable that a young Prince will make his
+appearance ere we arrive at Barcelona. After having spent a longer time
+than I liked at Leghorn, which has nothing curious to recommend it, at
+length it was given out that on the 26th the K. would certainly arrive
+from Pisa and embark as soon as possible. Accordingly at 6 o'Clock on
+that day all the houses were ornamented in the Italian style by a
+display of different coloured Streamers, etc., from the windows, & His
+Majesty entered the Town. Had I been a King I should have been not
+altogether pleased with my reception. He appeared in the Balcony of the
+Grand Duke's Palace, no one cried, "Viva Ludovico I!" He went to the
+Theatre the same Evening, which was illuminated on the occasion, &, of
+course, much crowded. I do not think our opera could have boasted a
+finer display of Diamonds than I saw that Evening in the Ladies' heads,
+but, be it remembered, that there are 7,000 Jews in Leghorn, not one of
+whom is poor; some are reported to be worth a million. Many of the
+Italians are also very rich. Next day we were informed that it was
+necessary to repair on board our ship, as the King was to go early on
+the 20th. The Naval Scene received an addition on 26th by the arrival of
+2 French frigates from Porto Ferrajo. They had carried a fresh garrison
+there & landed 500 men of the former one at Leghorn; they marched
+immediately, as it was said, to garrison Florence. On the 27th the
+Spaniards and French, the only ships of war in the roads, saluted, were
+manned and dressed. At Eleven o'Clock of the 27th (after having again
+seen the K. at the Opera) in the Launch of the _Argonauta_ we left
+Leghorn & went on board, for the first time in my life, to spend I hope
+many days in so large a ship. She was one of that unfortunate Squadron
+which came forth from Cadiz to convey home Adl. Linois[9] & his prize
+the _Hannibal_, after our unsuccessful attack in Algeciras bay. This
+Ship suffered little; she was then a better sailer than she is now, or
+most probably she would not be at present in the Service of Spain. Early
+on the morning of the 28th the Marines were on the deck. It blew fresh
+from the shore, & it was doubted whether the K. would venture; at 8
+o'Clock, however, the Royal barge was seen coming out of the Mole. The
+Admiral's Ship, _La Reyna Louisa_, gave the signal & at the instant
+Every Ship fired 3 royal salutes. The Effect was very beautiful; we were
+the nearest to the Admiral, nearer the land were the 2 other Spanish
+frigates, & abreast of us the two French Ships. They were all dressed,
+and as the King passed near them they were manned and three cheers were
+given. The King's boat came first, then the Queen's. After them followed
+the Consuls of the different Nations who were at Leghorn, & after them a
+boat from each of the Ships. There were besides a great number of other
+boats & Ships sailing about. Soon after the King had arrived on board
+the _Reyna Louisa_, of 120 guns, the Signal was made for preparing to
+Sail, & soon after the Signal for Sailing. We all got under weigh, but
+as our Ship was a bad sailer we had the mortification of seeing
+ourselves left far behind in a short time. We have had nothing but light
+winds ever since, & for the last two days contrary, but I am not in the
+smallest degree impatient to get to Barcelona. The Novelty of Scene,
+more especially as it is a naval one, pleases me more than anything I
+have met with hitherto. We are, however, now (Oct. 3rd) looking out for
+land. Cape Sebastian will be the point we shall first see in Spain, & I
+much fear that to-morrow night I shall sleep in Barcelona. Of the
+Discipline of the Spanish Navy I cannot say much, nor can I praise their
+cleanliness. I wish much to see a storm. How they manage then I do not
+know, for when it blows hard the sailors will not go aloft; as for the
+officers or Midshipmen, they never think of it. Indeed, the latter live
+exactly as well as the officers; they mess with them, have as good
+berths, & are as familiar with them as they are with each other; very
+different in every respect from the discipline in English Men of War. I
+shall write another letter to my sisters by this post; as they are at
+Highlake you may exchange letters. Soon I shall write to you again. I
+have to thank you for a very long letter which I received at Geneva,
+chiefly relating to the proper judgement of paintings. I am not yet
+quite a convert, but experience may improve me. In Spain I understand I
+shall see some very good ones by the first masters. I fear much that my
+desire of visiting Spain will not be so keen as it was when I have seen
+a very little of it. By all accounts, even from Spaniards themselves,
+travelling is very inconvenient, & what is infinitely worse, very
+expensive; added to which the intolerable Suspicion & care of the
+Government renders any stay there very unpleasant. In case I find myself
+not at my ease there I shall, when at Gibraltar, take a passage back to
+Italy, for Rome & Naples must be seen. Now I think of it I must mention
+one ship well known to you which I saw at Leghorn, namely, the _John of
+Leith_. I accidentally saw her boat with the name written; you may be
+sure I looked at her with no small pleasure.[10] When I sought for her
+next day she was gone. I little thought when I last saw you to see a
+ship in which you had spent so much time, up the Mediterranean. I am
+learning Spanish at present, & the progress I have made in it is not the
+least pleasure I have received during my stay in the _Argonauta_. It is
+a language extremely difficult to understand when spoken, but easy to
+read, & very fine. I can already understand an easy book. If I can add
+Spanish & Italian, or some knowledge of those languages, to my stock, I
+shall consider my time and money as well spent, independent of the
+Countries I shall have seen. Before I close this letter, which you will
+receive long after its original date, I must tell you I have been making
+a most interesting visit to the celebrated Lady of Mont Serrat,[11] &
+was even permitted to kiss her hand, an honour which few, unless well
+recommended, enjoy. I have not time to say so much of it as I could, I
+can only assure you that it fully answered the expectations I had
+raised. The singular Scenery and the more singular Customs of its
+solitary inhabitants, excepting the monks of the convent, who lead a
+most merry, sociable life, are well worth the trouble of going some
+distance to visit. The formation of the mountain is also very
+extraordinary. Entirely pudding stone, chiefly calcarious, some small
+parts of quartz, red granite, & flint only to be found. I have preserved
+some pieces for your museum, which I hope will arrive safe in England,
+as also the small collection of stones which I sent from the Alps.
+
+Yours sincerely,
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+MALAGA, _Jan., 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,--To this place am I once more returned, after having
+made an excursion to the far-famed city of Granada and still more
+renowned palace of the Alhambra. My last letter was dated from Gibraltar
+on the 17th of Decr. We left the Rock in a Vile Tartan,[12] rendered
+still less agreeable by belonging to Spaniards, who, at no time
+remarkable for cleanliness, were not likely to exert themselves in that
+point in a small trading Vessel. We were crowded with Passengers and
+empty Casks--both Equally in the Way; tho' the latter were not then
+noisy nor Sick, I considered them as the least nuisance. Fortunately a
+strong W. Breeze soon carried us from the Rock, and in one night we
+found ourselves close to the Mole of Malaga. We introduced ourselves on
+landing to the English Consul Laird, to whose attentions we have been
+since much indebted. On the 2nd day after our arrival we heard of a
+Muleteer who was on his return to Granada, and with whom we agreed for 3
+Mules. The distance is 18 leagues over the Mountains, a Journey of 3
+days; this is a Country wild as the Highlands of Scotland, and in parts,
+if possible, more barren. The first night we slept at Vetey Malaga and
+the 2nd at Alhama, a Town famous for its hot baths, which, thanks to the
+Moors--who built walls about them--the Spaniards still enjoy. The
+accommodations in the Country are rather inferior to those of England,
+tho' perhaps you may consider me so prejudiced in favour of my own, and
+therefore unjust in my accounts of other Countries. This may be the
+Case, and I dare say a Muleteer would find infinite fault with an
+English Inn, where accommodation may be found for the Rider as well as
+the Mule. On entering one of these Ventas, or Inns, you find yourself in
+the Midst of Jack Asses and Mules, the necks of which, being usually
+adorned with bells, produce a Music highly entertaining to a traveller
+after a long day's Journey over these delightful roads. If you can force
+your way through this Crowd of Musical Quadrupeds it is necessary that
+you should attempt to find out the Landlord and petition for a room,
+which in general may be had, and if you are fortunate, Mattrasses are
+laid on the floor. Eating, however, is always out of the question. It is
+absolutely necessary to carry your own Stock and look for your self if
+a frying Pan can be found. If you are very much tired and the Bugs,
+Mosquitos, Fleas, and other insects (sent into the World, I believe, to
+torment Mankind) are also tired or satiated with sucking the Blood from
+the Travellers the preceding night, you may chance to sleep till 3
+o'clock in the Morning, when the Carriers begin to load their beasts and
+prepare for the day's Journey. The pleasure of travelling is also
+considerably diminished by the numbers of Crosses by the road side,
+which, being all stuck up wherever a murder has been committed, are very
+unpleasant hints, and you are constantly put in mind of your latter End
+by these confounded Monuments of Mortality. Fortunately, we met with no
+Tromboners on the road, and hitherto we have saved the Country the
+Expence of Erecting 3 Crosses on our account. At last we arrived at
+Granada, the 3rd Town in Spain in Extent, being surpassed only by
+Seville and Toledo. You will, I suppose, expect a long account of the
+Alhambra and Romantic Gardens of the Generalife, a minute account of the
+curiosities in the City and a long string of etceteras relative to the
+place. You must, however, remain in ignorance of all these things till
+we meet, as at present I have neither time or inclination or paper
+sufficient to repeat my adventures and observations: suffice it to say
+that on the whole I was much disappointed both with the Alhambra and
+Granada, which are I cannot say lasting Monuments, for they are falling
+fast to ruin. Of the Indolence and negligence of the people, you will
+scarcely believe that so large a Town so near the sea, and situated in
+one of the finest vales in Spain, is almost without Trade of any
+Sort--neither troubling itself with importations or exerting its powers
+to provide Materials for Exportation. The Capt. Genl., however, is doing
+all he can to restore it to its former dignity, and were he well
+seconded, Granada might again hope to become one of the brightest
+ornaments of Spain. We returned by way of Loja and Antiquiera on the
+27th of Decr., and have been wind bound ever since, and likely to be for
+another Month--sure never was a wind so obstinate as the present. We
+have here, I believe, quite formed a party to visit another quarter of
+the Globe--a short trip to Africa is at present in agitation. A Capt.
+Riddel from Gibraltar is one of the promoters, and if we can get to
+Gibraltar in any decent time you may possibly in my next letter hear
+some account of the Good Mahometans at Tangiers. We are but to make a
+short Stay and carry our Guns and dogs, as we are told the Country is
+overrun with game of every sort. I have been most agreeably surprised in
+finding Malaga a very pleasant place: we have met with more attention
+and seen more Company here than we ever did in Barcelona. I am this
+Evening going to a Ball; unfortunately Fandangos are not fashionable
+dances, but they have another called the Bolero, which in grace and
+Elegance stands unrivalled, but would scarcely be admitted in the less
+licentious circles of our N. Climate. I shall take lessons at Cadiz, and
+hope to become an adept in all those dances before I see you. If you
+write within a fortnight--and of course you will after receiving
+this--you may still direct to Cadiz. There has been a disturbance at
+Gibraltar, which was hatching when we were there, and during our absence
+has Broken out. The many strange reports and particulars which have
+reached Malaga--as I cannot vouch for their truth, I shall not Mention;
+the Grand point, however, was to put his Royal H. on board of a Ship and
+send him back to England. There has been also a desperate gale of Wind
+in the Straights--3 Portuguese Frigates, one with the loss of her
+rudder, were blown in here. Some Vessels, I understand, were also lost
+at the Rock. I hope our little brig, _ye Corporation_, with the young
+pointers has arrived in the Thames in spite of the constant Gales and
+contrary Winds which we met with. I was sorry when the Wind became fair
+and the Rock appeared ahead. My taste for salt Water is not at all
+diminished by Experience. It is no doubt a strange one, but there is no
+accounting for these things, you know. Malaga is warm enough--we have
+Green Peas and Asparagus every day. But we experienced very severe
+Weather at Granada--Frost and Snow. The baths of the Alhambra were even
+covered with Ice an Inch Thick. Adieu! this is Post Day.
+
+Loves to all,
+Yours Sincerely,
+E. S.
+
+
+GIBRALTAR, _Jan. 22, 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,--I promised in my last, which I wrote when I was on the
+point of Setting out on a tour to Granada, to write again and give some
+account of myself immediately on my return, which was delayed on account
+of Sundry unfortunate Circumstances till the day before yesterday. From
+Malaga I wrote to my Father, and you probably have heard that a fair
+wind carried us in a vile vessel from this place to Malaga in one night,
+from whence, staying as Short a time as possible, I set out on mules to
+Granada, distant a journey of three days. Till this time I had never,
+excepting from hearsay, formed a true idea of the perfection to which
+travelling in Spain could be carried, and yet, bad as it was, my return
+to land from Gibraltar has shown that things might be a degree worse. Of
+the roads I can only say that most probably the Spaniards are indebted
+to the Moors for first marking them out, and that the present race
+follow the steps of their Ancestors, without troubling themselves with
+repairs or alterations of any description. You may well then imagine the
+delicate State in which they now are. The Ventas or Inns are in a State
+admirably corresponding to that of the high-roads. Provisions of every
+sort must necessarily be carried unless the traveller wishes to fast;
+beds are occasionally, and indeed I may say pretty generally, to be met
+with, such as they are; of course, bugs, fleas, Mosquitos, and so forth
+must not be considered: they are plentifully diffused over the Country,
+and are by no means confined to the inferior houses. With a Substitution
+for "Pallida Mors" the quotation from Horace may with truth be applied,
+"aequo pulsant pede pauperum tabernae, Regum turres." We passed thro'
+Alhama, near which are some very fine hot baths; the exact heat I could
+not ascertain (as my thermometer was actually jolted to pieces tho' in
+its case in my pocket, travelling from Turin to Genoa), but it is so
+great that I could scarcely keep my hand immersed for a minute. In
+another Country they would be much frequented; as it is there are only
+some miserable rooms for those who repair to them from necessity. On the
+evening of the 21st of December we arrived at our Journey's end, and
+found, what we did not expect, a very tolerable Inn, though as Granada
+is considered the third Town in Spain, those who are unacquainted with
+the country might expect a better. I have so much to say that I cannot
+enter into a minute account of the famous Palace of the Alhambra and
+other Curiosities in the Town, which is most beautifully situated at the
+foot of a range of snow-covered Mountains at the extremity of what is
+said to be the most luxuriant and delightful valley in Spain. I hope for
+the credit of the Inhabitants that it is not so, as certainly it is in a
+disgraceful state of Cultivation, and were it not for the Acqueducts
+erected by the Moors for the convenience of watering the land would, I
+fear, in a few years be burnt up by the intense heat of summer. Its
+chief produce is Corn and oil; silk and Wine are also cultivated, but
+the cold of winter sometimes injures the two latter. The place is badly
+peopled and has no trade; it is chiefly supported by being the chief
+criminal port of Spain, and the richest people are consequently the
+Lawyers. We saw the baths of Alhambra in a state very different from
+what they usually are--actually frozen over and the Ice nearly an Inch
+thick. I must say I was greatly disappointed with these famed remains of
+Moorish Magnificence, tho' certainly when everything was kept in order,
+the fountains all playing, it must have been very different; at present
+it is falling fast to ruin. The Governor is a man appointed by the
+Prince of Peace,[13] and I believe would be unwilling to bestow any
+attention on anything in the world but his own person, of which by all
+accounts he takes special care. We returned to Malaga through Loja and
+Antequerra, both Moorish towns. At Malaga we were detained by Contrary
+winds for three weeks; we might, indeed, have passed our time less
+advantageously at other places, as we experienced much unexpected
+Civility & saw a great deal of Spanish Society. Wearied at length with
+waiting for Winds, we determined to set out on our return to the Rock by
+land, and accordingly hired 4 horses, and, under the most favourable
+auspices, left Malaga. We soon found that even a Spanish sky could not
+be trusted; it began before we had completed half our first day's
+journey to pour with rain. To return was impossible, as we had forded
+the first river. In short, for three days we suffered Every
+Inconvenience which can be conceived, but were still to meet with
+another disappointment, for on the Morning of the day in which we had
+certainly calculated to arrive at Gibraltar we came to a River which was
+so much swelled that the Boatman could not ferry us over. Nearly a
+hundred Muleteers and others were in the same predicament, and we had
+the satisfaction of passing two most miserable days in a horrid Cortigo,
+a house of _accommodation_ a degree lower than a Venta. Our provisions
+were exhausted, and nothing but bread and water were to be met with.
+Beds, of course, or a room of any sort were unobtainable. Conceive to
+yourself a kitchen filled with smoke, without windows, in which were
+huddled together about forty of the lowest order of Spaniards. As it
+poured with rain we could not stir out, and as for staying within doors
+it was scarcely possible. If we tried to sleep we were instantly covered
+with fleas and other insects equally partial to a residence on the human
+body. After two days' penance, as the waters began to abate, we
+determined to cross the river in a small boat and proceed on foot, which
+we did, and though we had to skip thro' 2 or 3 horrible streams and wade
+thro' Mud and Marshes we performed the journey lightly, as anything was
+bearable after the Cortigo del rio Zuariano. We passed through St. Roque
+and the Spanish lines and arrived at Gibraltar on 20th, out of patience
+with the Spaniards and everything belonging to Spain. Indeed, the
+Country is a disgrace to Europe. I wish indolence was the only vice of
+the inhabitants, but added to laziness they are in general mean in their
+ideas, the women licentious in their manners, and both sexes sanguinary
+to a degree scarcely credible. In Malaga particularly, few nights pass
+without some murders. Those who have any regard for their safety must
+after dark carry a sword and a lantern. You may form some idea of the
+people when there was one fellow at Granada who had with his own hand
+committed no less than 22 Murders. Nothing could be more gratifying to
+an Englishman than finding wherever he goes the manufactures of his own
+Country. This in Spain is particularly the case; there is scarcely a
+single article of any description which this people can make for
+themselves, consequently English goods are sure of meeting with a quick
+sale. Perhaps it may be from prejudice, but certainly the idea I had of
+England before I left it has been raised many degrees since I have had
+an opportunity of comparing it with other countries. But now for some
+news respecting Gibraltar itself, which has during my absence been a
+scene of Confusion, first by a dreadful gale of wind, and secondly from
+a much more serious cause, a spirit of Mutiny in the Garrison. By the
+former 16 or 18 vessels were either lost or driven on shore; by the
+latter some lives were sacrificed before tranquillity was restored, and
+3 men have since suffered death by the Verdict of a Court Martial. No
+doubt you will see something of it in the papers; I cannot now enter
+into a detail as it would take some time. The 2 Regts. principally, and
+I believe I may say only, concerned were the Royals, which is the
+Duke's[14] own Regt., and the 25th; fortunately they did not act in
+concert. The other Regts. of the Garrison, the 2nd, 8th, 23rd, and 54th,
+particularly the latter, behaved well. The design was to seize the Duke
+and put him on board a ship and send him to England. He is disliked on
+account of his great severity: whether he carries discipline to an
+unnecessary degree military men know better than myself. Despatches have
+been sent to England, and I believe some of the men concerned; the
+greatest anxiety prevails to know what answers or orders will be
+returned. Of War and the rumours of War, tho' we it seems are nearer the
+scene of action than those who dwell at home, little is known, and what
+little is seems to be more inclined to peace than the English papers
+allow. It is here said, on what grounds I know not, that the Spaniards
+have entirely ceded Minorca to their good neighbours the French. We have
+but a small Naval force in the bay; and a few frigates and ships of
+war, one of the latter the _Bittern_, I believe, arrived yesterday from
+England, but without any particular news. Many gun boats were fitting
+out at Malaga, but I was informed they were only meant for "Guarda
+Costas," which may or not be the truth. We sailed for Cadiz the moment
+an E. wind would give us leave; it has now blown almost constantly a W.
+wind for three months, and the season has been remarkably wet. I am
+impatient to get to Cadiz as I expect certainly to find letters, the
+receipt of which from home is, I think, the greatest pleasure a
+traveller can experience. Of Louisa's[15] marriage I have as yet not
+heard, tho' no doubt, however, it has taken place. How are my Nephews
+and Nieces? I do indeed look forward with pleasure to my next visit to
+Alderley. Remember it is now nearly 2 years since I have seen you; how
+many things have happened in the time to yours most sincerely
+
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother J. T. Stanley._
+
+GIBRALTAR, _January 16, 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,-- ... I shall pass over the greater part of the rest of
+your long letter & proceed without further delay to talk of myself. The
+last time you heard from me I think was soon after I arrived in
+Barcelona; what occurred during my stay there you have most probably
+heard from my sisters, as I wrote to Highlake just before I left that
+place. I consider myself as extremely fortunate in being at Barcelona
+during a time when I had a better opportunity of seeing the Court of
+Spain and the different amusements of the Country than I could have
+witnessed by a much longer residence even in Madrid itself. I was,
+however, unfortunately only a Spectator; as no regular English Consul
+had arrived in Barcelona, I had no opportunity of being introduced
+either at Court or in the first Circles. Another difficulty also was in
+my way; unfortunately I was not in the Army & consequently had no
+uniform, without which or a Court dress no person is considered as a
+Gentleman in this Country. I have repeatedly regretted that before I
+left England I did not put my name down on some Military list, & under
+cover of a red Coat procure an undisputed right to the title of
+Gentleman in Spain.
+
+As for the people, both noble and vulgar, it requires but a very short
+residence amongst them to be highly disgusted; few receive any thing
+which deserves the name of a regular Education, & I have been told from,
+I believe, undoubted Authority, that a nobleman unable to write his
+name, or even read his own pedigree, is by no means a difficult thing to
+meet with. The Government is in such a State that ere long it must fall,
+I should think. The King is entirely under the power of the Prince of
+Peace,[16] a man who from being a common Corps de Garde has risen by
+degrees, & being naturally ambitious & extremely avaricious has gained a
+rank inferior only to that of the King, & a fortune which makes him not
+only the richest man in Spain but probably in Europe. He is disliked by
+every Class of people, & it is not, I believe, without good ground that
+he is considered as little better than a tool of Buonaparte's.
+
+The conduct of France to Spain in many particulars, which are too
+numerous now to mention, shews in what a degraded state the latter
+is--how totally unable to act or even think for herself. One instance I
+need only mention, tho' I do not vouch for the truth of it, further than
+as being a report current in the Garrison. The French have _kindly_
+offered to send 4,000 troops to Minorca in order to _take care_ of it
+for yr good friends the Spaniards, and a Squadron is fitting out at
+Toulon to carry them there. After your alarming account of the naval
+preparations in the three kingdoms you will expect that I, who am here
+in the centre of everything, should be able to tell you a great deal;
+you will, therefore, be surprised when you are informed that yours is
+almost the only account of another war which I have heard of. A Strong
+Squadron, indeed, of 6 line of Battle Ships some time ago sailed with
+sealed orders and went aloft, but where is unknown. From Barcelona, as
+it was utterly impossible to get to Madrid on account of the King
+having put an Embargo on every Conveyance, which is easily done as the
+Conveyances are bad as the roads and difficult to meet with, as well as
+enormously dear, we determined to steer for Gibraltar by Sea, and
+accordingly took passage on an English brig, which was to stop on the
+Coast for fruit we took on board. The Voyage was uncommonly long, and we
+met with every Species of weather, during which I had the pleasure of
+witnessing a very interesting Collection of Storms, with all the
+concomitant circumstances such as Splitting Sails and Shipping Seas, one
+of which did us considerable mischief, staving in all the starboard
+quarter boards, filling and very nearly carrying away the long-boat,
+drowning our live Stock, and, of course, ducking us all on deck most
+thoroughly. We stayed a week at Denia, a small but beautiful Town on the
+south part of the K. of Valencia. We were fortunately put on shore here
+in the night of December 6th. I say fortunately, as in consequence of a
+very strong Levanter the Captn. was for some hours in doubt whether he
+should not be under the necessity of running through the straits and
+carrying us to England, which was very near happening. Italy I have
+quite given up for the present. Rome and Naples I lament not to have
+seen, but you know that from Leghorn I turned to the westward in
+Compliance with Hussey's wish, who was anxious to be near Lisbon. We
+have some idea of going from this place thro' Malaga to Granada, and
+soon after we return proceed to Cadiz, and after making some excursions
+from thence go on to Lisbon. Your letter which you promised to send to
+Madrid will, I fear, never reach me, tho' I have still hopes of paying
+that Capital a visit. At Lisbon I shall arrive, I should think, about
+March, and hope to be in England about May, or perhaps sooner. At Lisbon
+I hope to find a letter from you; the direction is Jos. Lyne & Co. I
+have been very unfortunate in not finding some friends in the Garrison,
+the only officer to whom I had a letter whom I found here has been of
+little Service to us. I have, however, made the best use of my time and
+have been over the greatest part of this extraordinary Fortress, but
+shall leave the description of it, as well as of an infinity of other
+things, till we meet, which shall be very soon after my arrival in
+England. I must send this instantly or wait for the next Post day, so I
+shall conclude rather hastily. My best Love to Mrs. S. and Believe me,
+
+Yours sincerely,
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Sheffield
+
+Walker & Boutall, ph. sc.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL
+
+News of the Emperor's fall--Foreign plans--Disquieting
+rumours--Madame de Staël--London in an uproar--Emperors and
+Kings--Hero-worship at close quarters.
+
+1814.
+
+
+The sudden rupture of the Peace of Amiens in May, 1803, closed France to
+Englishmen, except to the miserable eight or nine thousand who were in
+the country at the time, and were forcibly detained there by orders of
+the First Consul. It was not until eleven years later, in April, 1814,
+when Napoleon had abdicated, and when the allies had triumphantly
+entered Paris and restored Louis XVIII. to the throne of his fathers,
+that peaceful British travellers could cross the frontier once more.
+
+The busy parish life which had occupied Edward Stanley during the years
+which had elapsed since his first visit to France had not made him less
+keen for travel than he had been in his college days, and all his ardour
+was aroused by the news that there was to be an end to Napoleon's rule.
+
+The excitement caused by the rumour of the capture of Paris and the
+deposition of the Emperor may be guessed at by a letter received at
+Alderley from Lord Sheffield, father of Lady Maria Stanley, in the
+spring of 1814.
+
+
+_Letter from Lord Sheffield._
+
+PORTLAND PLACE, _April 6, 1814_.
+
+...I am just come from the Secretary of State's Office. We are all
+gasping for further intelligence from Paris, but none has arrived since
+Capt. Harris, a very intelligent young man who was despatched in half an
+hour after the business was completed, but of course cannot answer half
+the questions put to him. He came by Flanders, escorted part of the way
+by Cossacks, but was stopped nearly a day on the road. Schwartzenberg
+completely out-generalled Buonaparte. An intercepted letter of the
+latter gave him notice of an intended operation. He instantly decided on
+the measures which brought on the capture of Paris. I suppose you know
+that King Joseph sent the Empress and King of Rome previously to
+Rambouillet. It is supposed that Buonaparte has fallen back to form a
+junction with some other troops. A friend of Marshal Beresford's[17] has
+just called here who lately had a letter from the Marshal which says
+that he is quite sure that Soult has not 15,000 men left, and that in
+sundry engagements and by desertion he has lost about 16,000 men. I
+have no letter from Sir Henry[18] or William Clinton[19] since I saw
+you, but I learn at the War Office that the latter was, on the 20th of
+last month, within ten days' march of the right wing of Lord
+Wellington's army.[20]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Further news soon followed, and the authentic accounts of the Emperor's
+abdication at Fontainebleau on April 11th, and of his banishment to
+Elba, made it certain that his power was broken.
+
+The Rector of Alderley was eager to seize the chance of viewing the
+wreck of Napoleon's Empire while the country was still ringing with
+rumours of battles and sieges, and he began to make plans to do so
+almost as soon as the French ports were open.
+
+His wife was as keen as himself, and it was at first suggested that Sir
+John and Lady Maria, as well as Mrs. Edward Stanley, should join the
+expedition; but the difficulties of finding accommodation, and the fears
+of the disturbed state of the country, made them abandon the idea, to
+their great disappointment.
+
+The following extracts from the correspondence of Lady Maria Stanley
+explain the reasons for the journey being given up by herself and her
+sister-in-law.
+
+They describe the feeling in England on the foreign situation, and also
+give a glimpse of the wayward authoress, Madame de Staël, who was just
+then on her way back to France after a banishment of ten years.
+
+
+_Lady Maria Stanley to her sister, Lady Louisa Clinton._
+
+ALDERLEY PARK, _April 30, 1814_.
+
+So the Parisian expedition is at an end for us, in convention, that is,
+for I think Edward will brave all difficulties, and with Ed. Leycester,
+taking Holland first on his way, make a fight for Paris if possible; but
+all who know anything on the subject represent the present difficulties
+as so great, and the probable future ones so much greater, that Kitty
+(Mrs. Ed. Stanley) has given up all thought of making the attempt this
+year.
+
+Lodging at Paris is difficult to be had, and there are even serious
+apprehensions of a scarcity of provisions there. Moreover, the wise ones
+would not be surprised if things were in a very unsettled and, perhaps,
+turbulent state for some months. This is Miss Tunno's information,
+confirmed by other accounts she has had from Paris.
+
+Madame Moreau's[21] brother means to return to prepare for her
+reception and the mode of travelling, and when all is arranged to come
+again to fetch her.
+
+There seems every reason to think another year preferable for a trip,
+especially as I have been making the same melancholy reflections as Cat.
+Fanshawe,[22] and feared there would not be one clever or agreeable
+person left in London a Twelve-month hence; my only comfort is the
+expectation that House rent will be very cheap, and that the said Cat.
+will be better disposed to take up with second best company for want of
+perfection, and that we may have more of her society.
+
+...All you say of the French nobility and their feelings is very true;
+but if they return with the sentiment that all the Senate who wish for a
+good constitution are "des coquins," which I very much suspect, I shall
+consider the emigrants are the greatest "coquins" of the two sets.
+
+Surely, all the very bad Republicans and terrorists are exterminated. I
+should like to see a list of the Constituent Assembly, with an account
+of what has become of each. I have been reading all the accounts we have
+of the Revolution from the beginning. When I begin I am as fierce a
+Republican as ever, and think no struggle too much for the purpose of
+amending such a government or such laws. By the time I come to /93,
+however, one begins to hesitate, but I rejoice most heartily the old
+times are not restored, and hope Louis means to be sincere and
+consistent with his good beginning.
+
+I return the "Conte de Cely," which is very entertaining and
+interesting, as no doubt speaking the sentiments of all the old
+nobility. I do not think France has seen the end of her troubles
+entirely. It is impossible the Senate and the Emigrants can sit down
+quietly together, but the former--the Marshals and the Generals--would
+be formidable if they had reason given them to doubt the security of
+Louis' acceptation of the Constitution. If the Bourbons share the
+sentiments of their nobles, will you not give me leave to think they are
+too soon restored?
+
+Miss Tunno is very intimate with Mdme. Moreau and a cousin of hers. All
+her accounts have been conformable with yours.
+
+
+_Lady Louisa Clinton to her sister, Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+To-day I sat an hour with Cat. Fanshawe, and was highly amused by the
+account she gave of Mme. de Staël bolting up to her while standing
+speaking to Lord Lansdowne and some others at Mrs. Marcet's,[23] and
+saying, "I want to be acquainted with you. They say you have written a
+minuet. I am not a judge of English poetry, but those who are told me
+it is very good. Is it printed?" This intolerable impertinence, which,
+however, she probably meant for condescension, so utterly overset Cat.,
+that she could find not a word to say, and treated the overture so
+coldly that nothing more came of it.
+
+I exhort Cat. to recollect that the woman was so notorious for excessive
+ill-breeding, that no particular affront was intended, and hoped she
+would not continue coy, as I long to hear something of this Lioness from
+one who can judge.
+
+Hitherto I have had no such luck. I hear the most exaggerated statements
+of the Baroness's absurdities, or of the necessity of her being one of
+every literary party.
+
+
+_Letter from Miss Catherine Fanshawe, after meeting Lord Byron and Mme
+de Staël at Sir Humphry and Lady Davy's._
+
+_Early Spring, 1814._
+
+I have just stayed in London long enough to get a sight of the last
+imported lion,[24] Mme de Staël; but it was worth twenty peeps through
+ordinary show-boxes, being the longest and most entertaining dinner at
+which I ever in my life was present. The party being very small, her
+conversation was for the benefit of all who had ears to hear, and even
+my imperfect organ lost little of the discourse--happy if memory had
+served me with as much fidelity; for, had the whole discourse been
+written without one syllable of correction, it would be difficult to
+name a dialogue so full of eloquence and wit. Eloquence is a great word,
+but not too big for her. She speaks as she writes; and upon this
+occasion she was inspired by indignation, finding herself between two
+opposite spirits, who gave full play to all her energies. She was
+astonished to hear that this pure and perfect constitution was in need
+of radical reform; that the only safety for Ireland was to open wide the
+doors which had been locked and barred by the glorious revolution; and
+that Great Britain, the bulwark of the World, the Rock which alone had
+withstood the sweeping flood, the ebbs and flows of Democracy and
+Tyranny, was herself feeble, disjointed, and almost on the eve of ruin.
+So, at least, it was represented by her antagonist in argument, Childe
+Harold, whose sentiments, partly perhaps for the sake of argument, grew
+deeper and darker in proportion to her enthusiasm.
+
+The wit was his. He is a mixture of gloom and sarcasm, chastened,
+however, by good breeding, and with a vein of original genius that makes
+some atonement for the unheroic and uncongenial cast of his whole mind.
+It is a mind that never conveys the idea of sunshine. It is a dark night
+upon which the lightning flashes. The conversation between these two
+and Sir Humphry Davy,[25] at whose house they met, was so animated that
+Lady Davy[26] proposed coffee being served in the eating-room; so we did
+not separate till eleven. Of course we had assembled rather late. I
+should not say "assembled," for the party included no guests except Lord
+Byron and myself in addition to the "Staël" quartette....
+
+As foreigners have no idea that any opposition to Government is
+compatible with general obedience and loyalty, their astonishment was
+unbounded. I, perhaps I only, completely relished all her reasonings,
+and I thought her perfectly justified in replying to the pathetic
+mournings over departed liberty, "Et vous comptez pour rien la liberté
+de dire tout cela, et même devant les domestiques!" She concluded by
+heartily wishing us a little taste of real adversity to cure us of our
+plethora of political health.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In consequence of the difficulties and dangers anticipated in the above
+letters Edward Stanley finally decided to take as his only travelling
+companion his young brother-in-law, Edward Leycester, who was just
+leaving Cambridge for the Long Vacation.
+
+Mrs. Stanley accompanied her husband and brother as far as London, in
+order to see the festivities held in honour of the State visit of the
+Allied Sovereigns to England in June, on their way from the Restoration
+ceremonies in France.
+
+Her letters to her sister-in-law during this visit describe some of the
+actors in the great events of the last few months and the excitement
+which pervaded London during their stay.
+
+
+_Mrs. Edward Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _Friday, June 13, 1814_.
+
+Edward went for his passport the other day, and was told he must go to
+the Alien Office, being taken for a Frenchman....
+
+I forgot yesterday to beg Sir John would write Edward an introduction to
+Lord Clancarty,[27] and anybody else he can think of at Paris or the
+Hague, and send them to him as soon as possible.
+
+We have been Emperor[28] hunting all morning. No, first we went to Mass
+with Miss Cholmondeley, and heard such music!
+
+Then with her to the Panorama of Vittoria, and since then we have been
+parading St. James's Street and Piccadilly. Oh! London for ever! Edward
+saw a whiskered man go into a shop, followed him, and accosted him, and
+it was a man just arrived with despatches for the Crown Prince, who was
+thankful to be shewn his way. There was a gentleman came up to talk to
+Miss Cholmondeley, and he had been living in the house with Lucien
+Bonaparte.[29]
+
+[Illustration: _H. Edridge A.R.A. Welt 1811_ _Emory Walker Ph. Sc._
+
+_Kitty Leycester--married Edward Stanley 1810._]
+
+Then Edward was standing in Hatchard's shop, and he saw a strange bonnet
+in an open landau, and there was the Duchess of Oldenburg[30] and her
+Bonnet, and her brother sitting by her in a plain black coat, and he
+gave himself the toothache running after the carriage.
+
+He saw, or fancied he saw, a great deal of character in the Duchess's
+countenance. I just missed this, but afterwards joined Edward, and
+walked up and down St. James's Street, trusting to Edward's eyes, rather
+than all the assurances we met with, that the Emperor was gone to
+Carlton House, and were rewarded by a sight of him in a quarter of an
+hour, which had sufficed him to change his dress and his equipage, and a
+very fine head he has. Such a sense of bustle and animation as there is
+in that part of the town! You and Sir John may, and I daresay will,
+laugh at all the amazing anxiety and importance attached to a glimpse of
+what is but a man after all; but still the common principles of sympathy
+would force even Sir John's philosophy to yield to the animating throng
+of people and carriages down St. James's Street, and follow their
+example all the time he was abusing their folly.
+
+
+_June 13, 1814._
+
+At half-past ten we started for the illuminations, and nearly made the
+tour of the whole town from Park Lane to St. Paul's in the open
+barouche.
+
+I cannot conceive a more beautiful scene than the India House; they had
+hung a quantity of flags and colours of different sorts across the
+street; the flutings and capitals of the pillars, and all the outlines
+of the buildings, marked out with lamps, so that it was much more like a
+fairy palace and a fairy scene altogether than anything else.
+
+The flags concealed the sky, and formed such a fine background to the
+brilliant light thrown on all the groups of figures.
+
+We did not get home till daylight. There was nothing the least good or
+entertaining in the way of inscriptions and transparencies, except a
+"Hosanna to Jehovah, Britain, and Alexander."
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _Wednesday, June, 1814_.
+
+Where did we go to be made fools of by the Emperor yesterday for four
+hours? We went with Miss Tunno, got introduced to a gentleman's tailor
+in Parliament Street, and looked out of his window; saw a shabby coach
+and six pass, full of queer heads, one of which was so like the prints
+of Alexander, and bowed so like an Emperor, that I must and will
+maintain it to have been him till I can receive positive proof that it
+was not. We saw, too, what they said was Blücher, but we could hear or
+see nothing but that something was wrapped up in furs. However, Edward
+was more fortunate, and came in for the real bows which the real Emperor
+made from the Pulteney Hotel window, and you and Sir John may laugh as
+you please at all the trouble we have taken to see--nothing.
+
+Nevertheless, though I was well disposed to kiss the Emperor and Prince,
+and all who contributed to disappoint the public expectation, it is
+certainly entertaining and enlivening to be in expectation of meeting
+something strange every corner you turn and every different report you
+hear. The Emperor has gone out this morning to look about at half-past
+nine, long before the Prince Regent called.
+
+They say he will sail in one of his own ships from Leith and may pass
+through Manchester. But after all, it is something like what Craufurd
+described being in Paris, to be hearing yourself in the midst of a
+great bustle with your eyes shut and unable to see what was going on
+round you.
+
+We talk of Monday se'enight for our separation. There is so much to be
+seen if one could but see it here, that Edward is in no hurry to be
+off....
+
+At Lady Cork's the other night Blücher was expected. Loud Huzzas in the
+street at length announced him, the crowd gathered round the door, and
+in walked Lady Caroline Lamb[31] in a foreign uniform! This I had from
+no less authentic and accurate a source than Dr. Holland, who was an
+eye-witness. She had been at the party in female attire, and seeing Lady
+Cork's anxiety to see the great man, returned home and equipped herself
+to take in Lady C. and Co.
+
+
+_Monday, 8 a.m., June 16th._
+
+Yesterday, after Church, we went to the Park. It was a beautiful day,
+and the Emperor may well be astonished at the population, for such a
+crowd of people I could not have conceived, and such an animated crowd.
+As the white plumes of the Emperor's guard danced among the trees, the
+people all ran first to one side and then to the other; it was
+impossible to resist the example, and we ran too, backwards and forwards
+over the same hundred yards, four times, and were rewarded by seeing the
+Ranger of the Forest, Lord Sydney, who preceded the Royal party, get a
+good tumble, horse and all. We saw Lord Castlereagh almost pulled off
+his horse by congratulations and huzzahs as loud as the Emperor's, and a
+most entertaining walk we had.
+
+We dined at Mr. Egerton's. Mr. Morritt[32] rather usurped the
+conversation after dinner, but I was glad of him to save me from the
+history of each lady's adventures in search of the Emperor or the
+illuminations. The Opera must have been a grand sight; it seems
+undoubted that the Emperor and Prince Regent, and all in the Royal box,
+rose when the Princess of Wales came in and bowed to her--it is supposed
+by previous arrangement. Lord Liverpool[33] declared that he would
+resign unless something of the sort was done.
+
+One man made forty guineas by opening his box door and allowing those in
+the lobbies to take a peep for a guinea apiece. We made an attempt on
+Saturday to get into the pit, but it was quite impossible. I would not
+for the world but have been here during the fever, although what many
+people complain of is very true, that it spoils all conversation and
+society, and in another day or two I shall be quite tired of the sound
+or sight of Emperors.
+
+The merchants and bankers invited the Emperor to dinner; he said he had
+no objection if they would promise him it should not exceed
+three-quarters of an hour, on which Sir William Curtis lifted up his
+hands and exclaimed, "God bless me!"
+
+He is tired to death with the long sittings he is obliged to undergo.
+The stories of him quite bring one back to the "Arabian Nights," and
+they could not have chosen a more appropriate ballet for him than "Le
+Calife Voleur."
+
+If he stayed long enough, he might revolutionise the hours of London.
+
+I was close to Blücher yesterday, but only saw his back, for I never
+thought of looking at a man's face who had only a black coat on.
+
+You may safely rest in your belief that I do not enjoy anything I see or
+hear without telling it to you, and you are quite right in your
+conjecture as to what your feelings would be here.
+
+I have thought and said a hundred times what a fever of impatience
+disappointment, and fatigue you would be in.... You are also right in
+supposing that you know as much or more of the Emperor than I do, for
+one has not the time nor the inclination to read what one has the chance
+of seeing all the day long, and it is so entertaining that I feel it
+quite impossible to sit quiet and content when you know what is going
+on.
+
+One person meets another: "What are you here for?" "I don't know. What
+are you expecting to see?" One says the Emperor is gone this way, and
+another that way, and of all the talking couples or trios that pass you
+in the street, there are not two where the word "Emperor" or "King" or
+"Blücher" is not in one, if not both mouths; and all a foxhound's
+sagacity is necessary to scent him successfully, for he slips round by
+backways and in plain clothes.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _June 17, 1814_.
+
+We were in high luck on Sunday in getting a private interview with the
+Cossacks, through some General of M.'s acquaintance. We saw their horses
+and the white one, 20 years old, which has carried Platoff[34] through
+all his engagements. They are small horses with very thick legs. The
+Cossacks themselves would not open the door of their room till luckily a
+gentleman who could speak Russian came up, and then we were admitted.
+
+There were four, one who had been thirty years in the service, with a
+long beard and answering exactly my idea of a Cossack; the others,
+younger men with fine countenances and something graceful and
+gentleman-like in their figure and manner. They were very happy to talk,
+and there was great intelligence and animation in their eyes. No wonder
+they defy the weather with their cloaks made of black sheepskin and
+lined with some very thick cloth which makes them quite impenetrable to
+cold or wet. Their lances were 11 feet long, and they were dressed in
+blue jacket and trousers confined round the waist with a leather belt,
+in which was a rest for the lance. I envied their saddles, which have a
+sort of pommel behind and before, between which is placed a cushion, on
+which they must sit most comfortably. We must see them on horseback to
+_have seen_ them, but we shall probably have an opportunity of seeing
+them again.
+
+
+_June 18, 1814._
+
+On returning from Miss Fanshawe's we saw a royal carriage in George
+Street at Madame Moreau's, and we waited to see the Emperor and the
+Duchess (of Oldenburg) get into the carriage. He was in a plain blue
+coat; she without her curious bonnet, so that I had a good view of her
+face, which I had the satisfaction of finding exactly what I wished to
+see. The extreme simplicity of her dress--she had nothing but a plain
+white gown and plain straw hat, with no ornament of any sort--and her
+very youthful appearance made me doubt whether it was really the
+Duchess; but it was.
+
+She is very little, and there is a strong expression of intelligence,
+vivacity, and youthful, unsophisticated animation in her countenance. I
+fancied I could see so much of her character in the brisk step with
+which she jumped into the carriage, and the unassuming, lively smile
+with which she bowed to the people.
+
+The Emperor looks like a gentleman--but a country gentleman, not like an
+Emperor. His head is very like R. Heber's. The Duchess allowed herself
+to be pleased and to express her pleasure at all the sights without the
+least restraint. She asks few questions, but those very pertinent. She
+is impatient at being detained long over anything, but anxious to
+silence those who would hence infer that she runs over everything
+superficially, without gaining or retaining real knowledge.
+
+At Woolwich she was asked if she would see the steam-engines. "No, she
+had seen them already, and understood them perfectly." As they passed
+the open door she turned her head to look at the machinery, and
+instantly exclaimed, "Oh, that is one of Maudesley's engines," her eye
+immediately catching the peculiarity of the construction.
+
+
+LONDON, _June 22, 1814_.
+
+In the middle of Edward's sermon at St. George's to-day somebody in our
+pew whispered it round that there was the King of Prussia[35] in the
+Gallery. I looked as directed, and fixed my eyes on a melancholy,
+pensive, interesting face, exactly answering the descriptions of the
+King, and immediately fell into a train of very satisfactory reflection
+and conjecture on the expression of his physiognomy, for which twenty
+minutes afforded me ample time. The King was the only one I had not
+seen, therefore this opportunity of studying his face so completely was
+particularly valuable. When the prayer after the sermon was concluded,
+my informer said the King was gone, when, to my utter disappointment, I
+beheld my Hero still standing in the Gallery, and discovered I had
+pitched upon a wrong person, and wasted all my observations on a face
+that it did not really signify whether it looked merry or sad, and
+entirely missed the sight of the real King, who was in the next pew.
+
+Nothing but his sending to offer Edward a Chaplaincy in Berlin for his
+excellent sermon can possibly console me, except, indeed, the _honour by
+itself_ of having preached before a King of Prussia, which can never
+happen again in his life.
+
+...The Duchess of Oldenburg took all the merchants by surprise the other
+day. They had no idea she was coming to their dinner; she was the only
+lady, and she was rather a nuisance to them, as they had provided a
+hundred musicians, who could not perform, as she cannot bear music.[36]
+She was highly amused at the scene and with their "Hip! Hip!"
+
+
+MONDAY, _June 23, 1814_.
+
+At our dinner Mr. Tennant came in late, with many apologies, but really
+he had been hunting the Emperor--waiting for him two hours at one place
+and two hours at another, and came away at last without seeing him at
+all.
+
+He said, in his dry way, that "Have you seen the Emperor?" has entirely
+superseded the use of "How do you do?"
+
+In the morning he had gone into a shop to buy some gloves, and whilst he
+was trying them on the shopman suddenly exclaimed, "Blücher! Blücher!"
+cleared the counter at a leap, followed by all the apprentices, and Mr.
+Tennant remained soberly amongst the gloves to make his own selection,
+for he saw nothing more of his dealers.
+
+Rooms are letting to-day in the City at 60 guineas a room, or a guinea a
+seat for the procession. Tickets for places to see it from White's to be
+had at Hookham's for 80 guineas; 50 have been refused.
+
+Your letter revived me after five hours' walking and standing, and
+running after reviews, &c.
+
+I did see the King of Prussia, to be sure, and the Prince, and the
+people climbing up the trees like the grubs on the gooseberry bushes,
+and heard the _feu de joie_, whose crescendo and diminuendo was very
+fine indeed, but altogether it was not worth the trouble of being tired
+and squeezed for.
+
+At the reception at Sir Joseph Banks's house last night the most
+interesting object of the evening was a sword come down from heaven on
+purpose for the Emperor! Let the Prince Regent and his garters and his
+orders, and the merchants and the aldermen and everybody hide their
+diminished heads! What are they and their gifts to the Philosophers'?
+
+This is literally a sword made by Sowerby from the iron from some
+meteoric stones lately fallen--of course in honour of the Emperor. There
+is an inscription on it something to this effect, but not so neat as
+the subject demanded, and it is to be presented to Alexander--who does
+not deserve it, by the by, for having entirely neglected Sir Joseph
+amongst all the great sights and great men, which has rather mortified
+the poor old man.
+
+
+LONDON, _Monday night_.
+
+They are off, and in spite of all my friends' predictions to the
+contrary, I am here.
+
+Edward went this morning to Portsmouth on his way to Havre, but the
+Havre packet is employed in pleasuring people up and down to see the
+ships. Not a bed is to be had in the place, so he has secured his berth
+in the packet, if he can find her, and get on board at night after her
+morning's excursions.
+
+Standing room is to be had in the streets for three shillings; seats are
+putting up in and for two miles out of the town; all the laurels cut
+down to stick upon poles; in short, everybody is madder there than in
+London.
+
+Can the English ever be called cool and phlegmatic again? It is really a
+pity some metaphysicianising philosopher is not here to observe,
+describe, and theorise on the extraordinary symptoms and effects of
+enthusiasm, curiosity, insanity--I am sure I do not know what to call
+it--en masse.
+
+One should have supposed that the great objects would have swallowed up
+the little ones. No such thing! they have only made the appetite for
+them more ravenous.
+
+The mob got hold of Lord Hill[37] in the Park at the review, and did
+literally pull his coat and his belt to pieces. He snatched off his
+Order of the Bath, and gave it to Major Churchill, who put it in the
+holster of his saddle, where he preserved it from the mob only by
+drawing his sword and declaring he would cut any man's hand off who
+touched it. Some kissed his sword, his boots, his spurs, or anything
+they could touch; they pulled hair out of his horse's tail, and one
+butcher's boy who arrived at the happiness of shaking his hand, they
+chaired, exclaiming, "This is the man who has shaken hands with Lord
+Hill!" At last they tore his sword off by breaking the belt and then
+handed it round from one to another to be kissed.
+
+My regret at not having been at White's is stronger than my desire to go
+was; it must have been the most splendid and interesting sight one could
+ever hope to see.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On Friday, June 27th, Edward Stanley and Edward Leycester finally set
+off and sailed from Portsmouth, all gay with festivities in honour of
+the Allied Sovereigns.
+
+Mrs. Stanley was left to spend the time of their absence at her father's
+house in Cheshire, but the keen interest with which she would have
+shared the journey was not forgotten by her husband.
+
+The events of the tour were minutely chronicled in his letters to her,
+and not only in letters, but in sketch books, filled to overflowing with
+every strange group and figure which met the travellers on their way,
+through countries which had been, although so near, prohibited for such
+a long time that they had almost the interest of unknown lands.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+STOKE, _July 4, 1814_.
+
+...That my curiosity may not catch cold in the too sudden transition
+from exercise to inaction, the Shropshire and Cheshire Heroes have
+followed me down here, and I have had the pleasure of seeing and hearing
+of the crowds going to touch (for that is the present fashion of seeing,
+or, to speak philosophically, _mode_ of _perception_) Lord Hill; and
+yesterday I met Lord Combermere and his Bride at Alderley, and a worthy
+Hero he is for Cheshire!
+
+A folio from Havre just arrived. I am very noble, very virtuous, and
+very disinterested--pray assure me so, for nothing else can console
+me--it is too entertaining to send one extract.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG
+
+French prisoners--Oldenburg bonnets--"Fugio ut Fulgor"--Soldiers of
+the Empire--Paris--A French hotel--A walk through Paris--Portrait
+of Madame de Staël--An English ambassador--The Louvre--French
+tragedy--The heights of Montmartre--Cossacks in the Champs
+Elysées--£900 for substitute--Napoleon's legacies to his
+successor--A dinner at the English Embassy--Botany and
+mineralogy--Party at Madame de Staëls--A debate in the Corps
+Législatif--Malmaison--Elbowing the marshals--St Cloud and
+Trianon--The Catacombs.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Wife._
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+HAVRE, _June 26, 1814_.
+
+We have passed the Rubicon--nous voilà en France, all new, interesting,
+and delightful. I know not where or how to begin--the observations of an
+hour were I to paint in Miniature would fill my sheet; however, you must
+not expect arrangement but read a sort of higgledy-piggledy journal as
+things run through my head. I must pin them down like my Butterflies as
+they pass, or they will be gone for ever.
+
+At half-past four on Friday we sailed from Portsmouth, and saw the fleet
+in the highest beauty--amongst them all while they were under sail
+tacking, &c.; the delay has not been lost time. I should observe before
+I quit the subject of Portsmouth events, that the Emperor could not find
+time to sail about for mere amusement two days, this he left to the P.
+R.[38] He (the Emperor) and the Duchess of Oldenburg occupied themselves
+in visiting the Dockyards, Machinery, Haslar Hospital--in short,
+everything worthy the notice of enlightened beings....
+
+Our passengers were numerous, about 25 in a vessel of as many tons, with
+only six what they called regular sleeping-places.... But I had no
+reason to complain, our party was in many respects excellent--one, a
+jewel of no ordinary value, by name Mr. John Cross, of whom I must
+enquire more. I have seldom met with a man of more general and at the
+same time deep information; he seemed perfect in everything. Mineralogy,
+Antiquities, Chemistry, literature, human nature were at his fingers'
+ends, and most gentlemanly manners into the bargain....
+
+Amongst others we had three French officers, prisoners returning home.
+They had not met before that evening, but had you heard their
+incomparable voices when they sang their trios, you would have supposed
+they had practised together for years. Mr. John Cross alone surpassed
+them in their art. These gentlemen were certainly not _hostile_ to
+Bonaparte, but to gratify their musical taste they stuck at
+nothing--"God save the King," "Rule Britannia," "The Downfall of Paris"
+were chaunted in swift succession, and the following commencement of one
+of their songs will show the popular opinion of Bonaparte's campaign in
+Russia:--
+
+    "Quel est le Monarque qui peut
+         Etre si fou
+     Que d'aller à Moscou
+     Pour perdre sa grande armée?"
+
+A fair wind brought us in sight of the French coast early on Saturday.
+At 11 we were under the headland of Havre, and at 12 anchored in the
+bay, and were in an instant surrounded by chattering boatfuls who talked
+much but did nothing. On landing we were escorted to the Passport Office
+and most civilly received there; the difference, indeed, between public
+offices in England and France is quite glaring. Even the Custom house
+Officers apologised for keeping us waiting for the form of searching;
+and tho' the Underlings condescended to take a Franc or two, the Officer
+himself, when I offered money, turned away his head and hand and cried,
+"Ba, Ba, Non, Non," with such apparent sincerity that I felt as if I had
+insulted him by offering it....
+
+The whole process of getting our passports signed, &c., being over, we
+went to an Hotel. "Ici, garçon, vite mettez Messieurs les Anglois à
+l'onzième," cried a landlady--and such a landlady! and up we scampered
+to the 5th storey (there are more still above us) and to this said, "No
+onzième." ...
+
+We lost no time in the evening in looking about us; the town is situated
+about two miles up the Seine on a sort of Peninsula surrounded with very
+regular and strong fortifications. Its docks are incomparable, and
+Bonaparte would have added still more to their magnificence, but now all
+is at a stand--the grass is quietly filling up spaces hitherto taken up
+by soldiers, Workmen, shot and guns; the numberless merchant vessels in
+a state of decay proved sufficiently the entire destruction of all
+trade; but what gave me particular satisfaction was the sight of a
+flotilla of Praams, luggers, intended for the invasion of England, all
+reposing in a happy progress to speedy putrefaction and decay. About a
+mile from the town on the hill is a beautiful village called St. Michel,
+where the Havre citizens have country houses. The town itself is as
+singular as heart can wish--indeed, I am firmly convinced that the
+difference between the towns of the Earth and Moon is not greater than
+that between those of England and France. I scarcely know how to
+describe it to you. Conceive to yourself a long street of immensely tall
+houses from 5 to 8 Stories, _huddled_, for huddling is the only word
+which can convey my meaning, and in truth their extraordinary height and
+narrow breadth seem rather the effect of compression than design....
+These houses are inhabited by various families of various occupations
+and tastes, so that each Storey has its own peculiar character--here you
+see a smart Balcony with windows to the ground, garnished above and
+below with the insignia of washing woman or taylor. They are built of
+all materials, though I think chiefly of wood (like our old Cheshire
+houses) and stucco; and, thanks to time and the filth and poverty of the
+people, their exterior assumes a general tint of pleasing dirty
+picturesque. This said dirt may have its advantages as far as the eye is
+concerned, but the nose is terribly assailed by the innumerable
+compounded Effluvias which flow from every Alley-hole and corner. For
+the people and their dress! who shall venture to describe the things I
+have seen in the shape of caps, hats and bonnets, cloaks and petticoats,
+&c.? There I meet a group of Oldenburg Bonnets broader and more loaded
+with flowers, bunches, bows, plumes than any we saw in London, and would
+you believe it I am already not merely getting reconciled but absolutely
+an admirer of them.
+
+Having passed the groups of bonnets I meet at the next moment a set of
+beings ycleped Poissardes, caparisoned with coverings of all sorts,
+shapes, and sizes--here flaps a head decorated with lappets like
+butterflies' wings--here nods a bower of cloth and pins tall and narrow
+as the houses themselves, but I must not be too prolix on any one
+particular subject.
+
+
+_Sunday._
+
+We have been to the great Church. It was full, very full, but the
+congregation nearly all female.
+
+There is certainly something highly imposing and impressive in that
+general spirit of outward devotion at least which pervades all ranks.
+Nothing can be finer than their music: we had a sermon, too, and not a
+bad one. The order of things is somewhat reversed. In England we wear
+white bands and black gown, here the preacher had black bands and white
+gown, and I fear the eloquence of St. Paul would not prevent the smiles
+of my hearers in Alderley Church were I to pop on my head in the middle
+of the discourse a little black cap of which I enclose an accurate
+representation.
+
+What shall I say of political feeling? I think they appear to think or
+care very little about it; the military are certainly dissatisfied and
+the Innkeepers delighted, but further I know not what to tell you; I am
+told, however, that the new proclamation for the more decent observance
+of Sunday, by forcing the Shopkeepers to shut up their shops during
+Mass, is considered a great grievance.....
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+ROUEN, _June 28, 1814_.
+
+Foolish people are those who say it is not worth while to cross the
+water for a week. For a week! why, for an hour, for a minute, it would
+be worth the trouble--in a glance a torrent of news, ideas, feelings,
+and conceptions are poured in which are valuable through life. We staid
+at Havre till Monday morning, and though a Cantab friend of Edward's, on
+bundling into his cabriolet, expressed his astonishment we would think
+of staying a day, when he had seen more than enough of the filthy place
+in an hour, we amused ourselves very well till the moment of
+departure....
+
+At 4 on Monday we stepped into the cabriolet or front part of our
+diligence, on the panels of which was written "Fugio ut Fulgor," and
+though appearances were certainly against anything like compliance with
+this notice, the result was much nearer than I could have conceived.
+Five horses were yoked to this unwieldy caravan--two to the pole, and
+three before, and on one of these pole horses mounted a Driver without
+Stockings in Jack Boots, crack went an enormous whip, and away galloped
+our 5 coursers. It is astonishing how they can be managed by such simple
+means, yet so it was; we steered to a nicety sometimes in a trot,
+sometimes in a canter, sometimes on a full gallop.
+
+The time for changing horses by my watch was not more than one
+minute--before you knew one stage was passed another was commenced; they
+gave us 5 minutes to eat our breakfast--an operation something like that
+of ducks in a platter, the dish consisting of coffee and milk with rolls
+sopped in it. The roads are incomparable--better than ours and nearly if
+not quite as good as the Irish. The country from Havre to Rouen is rich
+in corn of every description--there is nothing particular in the face
+of it, and yet you would, if awakened from a dream, at once declare you
+were not in England; in the first place there are no hedges--the road
+was almost one continuous avenue of apple-trees; the timber trees are
+not planted in hedgerows but in little clumps or groves, sometimes but
+generally rather removed from the road, and it is amongst these that the
+villages and cottages are concealed, for it is surprising how few in
+comparison with England are seen. The trees are of two
+descriptions--either trimmed up to the very top or cut off so as to form
+underwood. I did not observe one that could be called a branching tree;
+the finest beech we saw looked like a pole with a tuft upon it. The
+cottages are mostly of clay, generally speaking very clean, and coming
+nearer to what I should define a cottage to be than ours in England.
+
+You see no cows in the fields, they are all tethered by the road-side or
+other places, by which a considerable quantity of grass must be saved,
+and each is attended by an old woman or child. We passed through 2 or 3
+small towns and entered Rouen 8 hours after quitting Havre, 57 miles.
+Rouen, beautiful Rouen, we entered through such an avenue of noble
+trees, its spires, hills and woods peeping forth, and the Seine winding
+up the country, wide as the Thames at Chelsea.
+
+Such a gateway! I have made a sketch, but were I to work it up for a
+month it would still fall far short and be an insult to the subject it
+attempts to represent. If Havre can strike the eye of a stranger, what
+must not Rouen do? Every step teems with novelty and richness, Gothic
+gateways, halls, and houses. What are our churches and cathedrals in
+England compared to the noble specimens of Gothic architecture which
+here present themselves?... Rouen has scarcely yet recovered from the
+dread they were in of the Cossacks, who were fully expected, and all
+valuables secreted--not that they were absolutely without news from the
+capital: the diligence had been stopped only once during the three days
+after the Allies entered Paris. Till then they had proceeded _comme à
+l'ordinaire_, and the diligence in which we are to proceed to-night left
+it when Shots were actually passing over the road during the battle of
+Montmartre--how they could find passengers to quit it at such an
+interesting moment I cannot conceive; had I been sure of being eaten up
+by a Horde of Cossacks, I could not have left the spot.
+
+What an odd people the French are! they will not allow they were in
+ignorance of public affairs before the entrance of the Allies. "Oh no,
+we had the Gazettes," they say, and I cannot find that they considered
+these Gazettes as doubtful authorities. We have plenty of troops
+here--genuine veterans horse and foot; I saw them out in line yesterday.
+The men were soldier-like looking fellows enough, but one of our cavalry
+regiments would have trotted over their horses in a minute without much
+ceremony; the army is certainly dissatisfied. Marmont is held in great
+contempt; they will have it he betrayed Paris, and say it would be by no
+means prudent for him to appear at the head of a line when there was any
+firing. The people may or may not like their emancipation from tyranny,
+but their vanity--they call it glory--has been tarnished by the
+surrender of Paris, and they declare on all hands that if Marmont had
+held out for a day Bonaparte would have arrived, and in an instant
+settled the business by defeating the Allies. In vain may you hint that
+he was inferior in point of numbers (to say anything of the skill and
+merit of the Russians perhaps would not have been very prudent), and
+that he could not have succeeded. A doubting shake of the head,
+significant shrug of the shoulders, and expressive "Ba, Ba," explain
+well enough their opinions on the subject.
+
+I cannot conceive a more grating badge to the officers than the white
+cockade--the fleur de lys is now generally adopted in place of the N and
+other insignia of Bonaparte, but, excepting from some begging boys, I
+have never heard the cry of "Vive Louis XVIII.!" and then it was done, I
+shrewdly suspect, as an acceptable cry for the Anglois, and followed
+immediately by "un pauvre petit liard, s'il vous plait, Mons." We went
+to the play last night; the house was filthy beyond description, and the
+company execrable as far as dress went; few women, and those in their
+morning dress and Oldenburg Bonnets--the men almost all officers, and a
+horrid-looking set they were. I would give them credit for military
+talents; they all looked like chiefs of banditti--swarthy visages,
+immense moustachios, vulgar, disgusting, dirty, and ill-bred in their
+appearance.
+
+From all I hear the account of the duels between these and the Russian
+officers at Paris were perfectly correct.[39]
+
+I am just come in from a stroll about the town. Among the most
+interesting circumstances that occurred was the inspection of
+detachments of several regiments quartered there. I happened to be close
+to the General when he addressed some Grenadiers de la Garde Impériale
+on the subject of their dismissal, which it seems they wanted. They
+spoke to him without any respect, and on his explaining the terms on
+which their dismissal could alone be had, they appeared by no means
+satisfied, and when he went I heard one of them in talking to a party
+collected round him say, "Eh bien, s'il ne veut pas nous congédier, nous
+passerons." A man standing by told me a short time ago a regiment of
+Imperial Chasseurs when called upon to shout "Vive Louis XVIII.!" at
+Boulogne, to a man, officers included, cried "Vive Napoleon!" and I feel
+very certain that had the same thing been required to-day from the
+soldiers on the field, they would have acted in the same manner, and
+that the spectators would have cried "Amen."
+
+I heard abundance of curious remarks on the subject of the war, the
+peace, and the changes; they will have it they were not conquered. "Oh
+no." "Paris ne fut jamais vaincue--elle s'est soumise seulement!" I
+leave it to your English heads to define the difference between
+submission and conquest.
+
+Beef and mutton are 5d. per lb. here. Chickens 3s. the couple, though 24
+per cent. was probably added to me as an Englishman. Bread a 100 per
+cent. cheaper than in England--at least so I was informed by an
+Englishman in the commercial line. Fish cheap as dirt at Havre, 3 John
+Dorys for 6d.
+
+From Havre to Rouen, 57 miles, cost us £1 6s. for both; from thence to
+Paris, 107 miles, £2; our dinners, including wine, are about 4s. a head;
+breakfast 2s., beds 1s. 6d. each.
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+PARIS, _June 30th_.
+
+Here we arrived about an hour ago; for the last two miles the country
+was a perfect garden--cherries, gooseberries, apple-trees, corn,
+vineyards, all chequered together in profusion; in other respects
+nothing remarkable....
+
+The first sight of Paris, or rather its situation, is about 10 miles
+off, when the heights of Montmartre, on one side, and the dome of the
+Hôpital des Invalides on the other reminded us of their trophies and
+disasters at the same time....
+
+[Illustration: OLD BRIDGE AND CHÂTELET.
+
+_Paris July 4, 1814_
+
+_To face p. 108._
+
+Now you must enter our rooms in l'Hôtel des Etrangers, rue du Hazard, as
+I know you wish to see minutely. First walk, if you please, into an
+antechamber paved with red hexagon tiles (dirty enough, to be sure), and
+the saloon also, into which you next enter through a pair of folding
+doors. This saloon is in the genuine tawdry French style--gold and
+silver carving work and dirt are the component features. It is about 20
+feet square, plenty of chairs, sofas of velvet, and so forth, but only
+one wretched rickety table in the centre. Two folding doors open into
+our bedroom, which is in furniture pretty much like the rest; the beds
+are excellent--fitted up in a sort of tent fashion--and mine has a
+looking-glass occupying the whole of one side, in which I may at leisure
+contemplate myself in my night-cap, for I cannot discover for what other
+purpose it was placed there.
+
+Now let us take a walk--put on thick shoes or you will find yourself
+rather troubled with the paving stones, for nothing like a flagged
+footpath exists; a slight inclination from each side terminates in a
+central gutter, from which are exploded showers of mud by the passing
+carriages and cabriolets. You must get on as you can; horse and foot,
+coaches and carts are jumbled together, and he who walks in Paris must
+have his eyes about him. The streets are in general narrow and
+irregular, and so much alike that it requires no small skill to find
+one's way home again. Ariadne in Paris would wish for her clue. First we
+ascended the bronze column[40] in the Place de Vendôme--figure to
+yourself a column perfect in proportions much resembling Nelson's in
+Dublin, ornamented after the plan of Trajan's pillar--all of bronze, on
+which the operations of the wars and victories in Germany are recorded.
+Bonaparte's statue crowned it, but that was removed. The column itself,
+however, will remain an eternal statue commemorating his deeds, and
+though the Eagles and letter N are rapidly effacing from every quarter,
+this must last till Paris shall be no more. From the top of this pillar
+you of course have a magnificent view, and it must have been a choice
+spot from whence to behold the fight of Montmartre. It will scarcely
+interest you much to say much about the other public buildings, suffice
+it to say that all the improvements are in the very best
+style--magnificent to the last degree; they may be the works of a
+Tyrant, but it was a Tyrant of taste, who had more sense than to spend
+120,000 Louis in sky-rockets. His public buildings at least were for the
+public good, and were ornaments to his capital.
+
+But let us turn from inanimate to living objects; since I penned the
+last line I have been sitting with Mme. de Staël.... By appointment we
+called at 12.[41] For a few moments we waited in a gaudy drawing-room;
+the door then opened and an elderly form dressed _à la jeunesse_
+appeared; she is not ugly; she is not vulgar (Edward begs to differ from
+this opinion, he thinks her ugly beyond measure); her countenance is
+pleasing, but very different from anything my fancy had formed; a pale
+complexion not far from that of a white Mulatto, if you will allow me to
+make the bull; her eyebrows dark and her hair quite sable, dry and crisp
+like a negro's, though not quite so curling. She scarcely gave me time
+to make my compliments in French before she spoke in fluent English. I
+was not sorry she fought under British colors, for though she was never
+at a loss, I knew I could express and defend myself better than had she
+spoken in French. I hurried her as much as decency would permit from one
+subject to another, but I found politics were uppermost in her
+thoughts.... She was equally averse to both parties--to the royal
+because she said it was despotism; the Imperial because it was tyranny.
+"Is there," said I, "no happy medium; are there none who can feel the
+advantages of liberty, and wish for a free constitution?" "None," said
+she, "but myself and a few--some 12 or 15--we are nothing; not enough to
+make a dinner party." I ventured to throw in a little flattery--I knew
+my ground--and remarked that an opinion like hers, which had in some
+measure influenced Europe, was in itself an host; the compliment was
+well received, and in truth I could offer it _conscientiously_ to pay
+tribute to her abilities.
+
+On leaving Mme. de S. we paid another visit. From the greatest woman we
+went to see our greatest man in Paris, Sir Charles Stuart,[42] to whom
+Lord Sheffield had given me a letter of introduction. This had been sent
+the day before, and of course I now went to see the effect. After
+waiting in the Anti-chamber of the great man for about half an hour, and
+seeing divers and sundry faces pass and repass in review, we were
+summoned to an audience. We found a little, vulgar-looking man, whom I
+should have mistaken for the great man's butler if he had not first
+given a hint that he was bonâ fide the great man himself. I think the
+conversation was nearly thus: E. S.: "Pray, Sir, are the Marshalls in
+Paris, and if so is it easy to see them?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I
+don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir, is there anything interesting to a
+stranger like myself likely to take place in the course of the next
+fortnight?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir,
+is the interior of the Thuilleries worth seeing, and could we easily see
+the apartments?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." This, I do
+assure you, was the cream of the conversation. Now certainly a great man
+ought to look wise and say he does not know so and so, when in fact he
+knows all about it, but somehow or other I could not help thinking that
+Sir Charles spoke the truth, for if I may draw any inference from
+Physiognomy, I never saw a face upon which the character of "upon my
+soul I don't know" was more visibly stamped. I left my card, bowed, and
+retired....
+
+I next turned my eyes to the Louvre.[43] What are the exhibitions of
+London, modern or ancient? What are Lord Stafford's, Grosvenor's,
+Angerstein's, &c., in comparison with this unrivalled gallery? Words
+cannot describe the coup d'œil. Figure to yourself a magnificent room so
+long that you would be unable to recognise a person at the other
+extremity, so long that the perspective lines terminate in a point,
+covered with the finest works of art all classed and numbered so as to
+afford the utmost facility of inspection; no questions asked on
+entering, no money to be given to bowing porters or butlers, no cards of
+admission procured by interest--all open to the public view, unfettered
+and unshackled; the liberality of the exhibition is increased by the
+appearance of Easels and desks occupied by artists who copy at leisure.
+It is noble and grand beyond imagination. In the Halls below are the
+Statues, arranged with equal taste, though, as they are in different
+rooms, the general effect is not so striking. I recognised all my old
+friends, the Venus de Medicis was alone new to me. She is sadly
+mutilated, but is still the admiration of all persons of sound judgment
+and orthodox taste, amongst whom, I regret to say, I deserve not to be
+classed, as I really cannot enter into the merits of statues, and the
+difference between a perfect and moderate specimen of sculpture appears
+to me infinitely less than between good and moderate paintings....
+
+After dining at a Restaurateur's, who gave us a most excellent dinner,
+wine, &c., for about 3s. a head, we went to the Théâtre Français, or the
+Drury Lane of Paris. We expected to see Talma[44] in Mérope, but his
+part was taken by one who is equally famous, Dufour, and the female part
+by Mme. Roncour. She was intolerable, though apparently a great
+favourite; he tolerable, and that is all I can say. In truth, French
+tragedy is little to my taste.... The best part of the play was the
+opportunity it afforded "les bonnes gens" de Paris to show their
+loyalty, and much gratified I was in hearing some enthusiastic applause
+of certain passages as they applied to the return of their ancient
+sovereign. There is something very sombre and vulgar in the French
+playhouses with the men's boots and the women's bonnets. Could I in an
+instant waft you from the solitudes of Stoke to the clatter of Paris,
+how you would stare to see the boxes filled with persons almost
+extinguished in their enormous casques of straw and flowers. I have seen
+several bearing, in addition to other ornaments, a bunch of 5 or 6
+lilies as large as life....
+
+[Illustration: POMP. NOTRE DAME.
+
+_Paris, July 11, 1814._
+
+_To face p. 115._]
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+PARIS, _July 8, 1814_.
+
+You will take for granted we have seen all the exhibitions, libraries,
+&c., of Paris; they will wait for more ample description--a glance on
+one or two will be sufficient.
+
+L'Hôpital des Invalides was, you know, famous for its magnificent dome,
+which was decorated with flags, standards, and trophies of the
+victorious arms of France; impatient to shew them to Edward, I hastened
+thither, but alas, not a pennant remains. On the near approach of the
+Allies they were taken down, and some say burnt, others buried, others
+removed to a distance. I asked one of the Invalides whether the Allies
+had not got possession of a few. With great indignation and animation he
+exclaimed, "Je suis aussi sûr que je suis de mon existence qu'il n'out
+pas pris un _seul_ même."
+
+On Sunday last, after having hunted everywhere for a Protestant church,
+one of which we found at last by some blunder quite empty, we went with
+our landlord, a serjeant in the national guard, to inspect the heights
+of Chaumont, Belleville, and Mt. Martre.... We ascended from the town
+for about 3 miles to a sort of large rambling village, in situation and
+circumstances somewhat like Highgate. This was Belleville, whose heights
+run on receding from Paris a considerable distance, but terminate rather
+abruptly in the direction of Mont Martre, from which they are separated
+by a low, swampy valley containing all the dead horses, filth, and
+exuvious putrefactions of Paris.... Immediately below, extending for
+many miles, including St. Denis and other villages, are fine plains;
+upon which plains about 3 in the morning the Russians deployed, and the
+Spectacle must have been interesting beyond measure.... On the heights
+and towards the base were assembled part of Marmont's[45] army with
+their field pieces and some few heavier guns; there, too, were stationed
+the greater part of the students of l'Ecole Polytechnique, corresponding
+to our Woolwich cadets. Nothing could surpass their conduct when their
+brethren in arms fled; they clung to their guns and were nearly all
+annihilated. I was assured that their bodies were found in masses on the
+spot where they were originally stationed; their number was about
+300.... I met a few in the course of the day who were, like ourselves,
+contemplating the field of battle, and who spoke like the rest of their
+countrymen of the baseness of Marmont and treachery of the day. The
+cannonade must have been pretty sharp while it lasted, as about 5,000
+Russians perished before they got possession of the heights--though the
+actual operation of storming did not occupy half an hour--but their
+lines were quite open to a severe fire of grape from eminences
+commanding every inch of the plain. Whilst this work was going on at
+Belleville, another Russian column performed a similar service at Mt.
+Martre, which is nearer Paris--in fact, immediately above the
+Barriers.... Thither our guide next conducted us, and pointed out the
+particular spots where the assault and carnage were most desperate. A
+number of Parties were walking about and all talking of the battle or
+Bonaparte.... Till this day I had never heard him openly and honestly
+avowed, but here I had several opportunities of incorporating myself in
+groups in which his name was bandied about with every invective which
+French hatred and fluency could invent. Their tongues, like Baron
+Munchausen's horn, seemed to run with an accumulated rapidity from the
+long embargo laid upon them. "Sacré gueux, bête, voleur," &c., were the
+current coin in which they repaid his despotism, and I was happy to find
+that his conduct in Spain was by all held in utter detestation and
+considered as the ground work of his ruin.
+
+I saw one party in such a state of bodily and mental agitation that I
+ran up expecting to see a battle, but the multiplicity of hands, arms,
+and legs which were rising, falling, wheeling, and kicking, were merely
+energetic additions to the general subject.... The National guard were
+not (with few exceptions) actually engaged. To the amount of 36,000 they
+occupied the towns and barriers, by all accounts guessing, or, as one
+intelligent conductor assured us, very certain that they would not be
+called upon to fight much for the defence of Paris.... Indeed, from all
+I have been able to learn, and from all I have been able to see, it
+appears pretty clear that no serious defence was intended--a little
+opposition was necessary for the look of the thing. And although Marmont
+might have done more, I feel convinced that had he exerted himself to
+the utmost, Paris must have perished.
+
+The heights were defended in a very inadequate and unsoldierlike manner;
+not a single work was thrown up before the guns, no entrenchments, no
+bastions, and yet with three days' notice all this might have easily
+been done. The barriers all round Paris were, and still are, hemmed
+round with Palisades with loop holes, each of which might have been
+demolished by half a dozen rounds from a 6-pounder; the French, indeed,
+laugh at them and consider them as mere divertissements of Bonaparte's,
+and feeble attempts to excite a spirit of defence amongst the people--a
+spirit which, fortunately for Europe, was never excited. The lads of
+Paris had determined to take their chance and not to do one atom more
+than they were called upon or compelled to do. These wooden barriers
+are made of le bois de tremble (aspen), and the pun was that the
+fortifications "tremblaient partout." You will like to hear something of
+Edgeworth's friend, St. Jean d'Angély;[46] he came up to the barrier
+where our landlord (who had been formerly an imperial guardsman and
+fought in the battle of Marengo) was posted; here he called loudly for
+some brandy, for which he got laughed at by the whole line of guard; he
+then sallied forth and proceeded a short distance, when his horse took
+fright, and as St. Jean was, as our landlord told us, "entiérement du
+même avis avec son cheval," they both set off as fast as they could, and
+were in a few minutes far beyond all danger, nor did they appear again
+amid the din of arms. The fate of Paris was decided with a rapidity and
+sang-froid quite astonishing. By 5 o'clock in the Evening all was
+entirely at an end, and the national guard and allies incorporated and
+doing the usual duty of the town. They were, indeed, under arms a little
+longer than usual, and a few more sentries were placed and the theatre
+not open that Evening, but that single evening was the only exception,
+and the next day the Palais Royal was as brilliant and more cheerful
+than ever, with its motley groups of visitors. The Cossacks were not
+quartered in the Palais Royal, they were in the Ch. Elysées, the trees
+of which bear visible marks of their horses' teeth, but a good many came
+in from curiosity and hung their horses in the open space of the
+Palais.... The Russian discipline was most severe, and not an article
+was taken from any individual with impunity, immediate death was the
+punishment. The field of battle bore few marks of the event--a few
+skeletons of horses and rags of uniforms; the more surprising thing is
+that, notwithstanding all the trampling of horse and foot on the plains
+below so late as the end of March, the corn has not suffered in the
+slightest degree. I wish the Alderley crops were as good.
+
+You have no idea of the severity of the conscription. That men can be
+attached to a being who dragged them, with such violence to every
+feeling, from their homes would be astonishing, but for the well-known
+force of the "selfish principle" which amalgamates their glory with his.
+A friend of our landlord's paid at various times 18,000 fr., about £900;
+he thought himself safe, but Bonaparte wanted a Volunteer guard of
+honour; he was told it would be prudent to enroll himself, which in
+consideration of the great sums he had paid would be merely a nominal
+business, and that he would never be called upon. He did put his name
+down; was called out in a trice and shot in the next campaign. Our
+waiter at Rouen assured me his friends had bought him off by giving in
+the first instance £25 for a substitute, with an annuity to the said
+substitute of an equal sum--pretty well this, for a poor lad of about
+16.
+
+Thanks to our landlord and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we might have been
+introduced into the Thuilleries, but came too late. We lost nothing, as
+after Mass the King marched through a beautiful sort of Glass gallery
+facing the Thuilleries Gardens, and then came out into a Balcony to shew
+himself to the crowd there assembled! he was received with universal and
+loud applause. "Vive le Roi!" was heard as loud as heart could wish,
+hats, sticks and handkerchiefs were flying in all directions. When he
+entered Paris, in one of the Barriers a sort of Archway was made and so
+contrived that as the carriage passed under a crown fell upon it, a band
+at the same time striking up "Où peut on être mieux que dans le sein de
+sa famille," which is, you know, one of their favourite airs.
+
+Poor man, he has enough to do, and will, I fear, experience a turbulent
+reign. Bonaparte has left his troops 3 years in arrears, the treasury
+empty, two parties equally clamourous for places and pensions, both of
+which must be satisfied. Their taxes are heavier than I thought they
+were. Our landlord has an estate worth about 2,000 frcs., his father
+paid 200 fr. a year for it, and he is now under the necessity of paying
+1,200, having only a clear surplus of 800, and the finances are at too
+low an ebb to allow of any immediate reduction in their taxes....
+
+To take things in their course, I must now proceed to my dinner at Sir
+Charles Stuart's. I was shewn into a room where I found three or four
+Englishmen gaping at one another. Before many more had assembled, in
+came Sir C., and I _believe_, or rather I am willing to flatter myself,
+he made a sort of half bow towards us, and then we stood and gaped
+again; a few more words between him and one or two who were to go to
+Court the day after, but to me and some others not a syllable of any
+description was uttered, and when some more English were shewn in who
+were, I presume, as respectable as myself, his behaviour was quite
+boorish, he did not condescend to look towards the door. These things
+went on till a throng of Spaniards with Stars and orders came in; with
+these he appeared tolerably intimate, and also with three Englishmen who
+afterwards appeared. We were about 24 in number, and all I had to do in
+the half-hour preceding dinner was to look out for the most intelligent,
+gentleman-like-looking Englishman I could, to secure a place by him....
+
+You will ask who I met. I protest to you that I went and returned
+without being able to learn more than that the secretary's name was
+Bidwell, and that one other person in company was a Mr. Martin, who had
+been agent for prisoners; of the rest I knew nothing, not even of my
+neighbour; birth, parentage, and education were alike involved in the
+cloud of diplomatic mystery which seemed to impend heavily over this
+mansion, and when my neighbour asked me, or I asked him, the names of
+any person present the answer was mutual--"I don't know." Sir Charles
+sat in the centre with a gold-coated Don on each side of him, with whom
+he might have whispered, for though I sat within two of his Excellency,
+I never heard the sound of his voice: however, my opinion may not
+coincide with all that pass from Calais to Dover, as I heard one man
+remark to another that his countenance was very pleasing, to which was
+added in reply, "and he is a very sensible man." These things may be,
+but I never met with one more perfect in the art of concealing his
+talents.
+
+Now for the Jardin des Plantes and its lectures. This same Jardin is a
+large space appropriated to Botanical pursuits, public walks,
+menageries, museums, &c. There you see Bears and Lions and, in fact, the
+finest collection of Birds and Beasts alive, some in little paddocks,
+others in clean and airy dens. But this is the least part of this
+delightful establishment; its museums and cabinets are like the Louvre,
+the finest collection in the world. Everything is arranged in such order
+that it is almost impossible to see it without feeling a love of
+science; here the mineralogist, geologist, naturalist, entomologist may
+each pursue his favourite studies unmolested. Here, as everywhere else,
+the utmost liberality is shewn to all, but to Englishmen particularly,
+your country is your passport. Like the mysterious "Open Sesame" in the
+Arabian nights, you have only to say, "Je suis Anglais" and you go in
+and out at pleasure. I have seen Frenchmen begging in vain with ladies
+and officers of the party and turned away because they had happened on
+the wrong day or hour, and then we, without solicitation, have been
+desired to walk in. But all these museums and living animals, curious
+and interesting as they are, are surpassed by the still greater
+liberality shewn in the daily lectures given by the members of the
+Institute or Professors of the several sciences. I have attended
+Haiiy,[47] Duméril,[48] l'Ettorel, du Mare, and others upon Mineralogy,
+Nat. Hist., and Entomology, and Haiiy, you know, is the first
+mineralogist in Europe, and I never looked upon a more interesting
+being. When he entered the lecture room, every one rose out of respect,
+and well they might. He is 80 years of age apparently, with a most
+heavenly patriarchal countenance and silver hair; his teeth are gone, so
+that I could not understand a word he said, though, indeed, had he been
+possessed of all the teeth in Christendom I apprehend I should not have
+been much wiser, as he lectured on the angular forms of the Amphiboles.
+He looked like a man picked out of a crystal, and when he dies he ought
+to be reincarnated and placed in his own museum.
+
+Another Scene to which I found my way was equally interesting: I went to
+a lecture on Iconographic drawing, or Science, as it was called, of
+representing natural subjects. In other words, when I got there I found
+it was a professorship of drawing, everything connected with Nat. Hist.,
+such as flowers, animals, insects; and the Professor lectures one day
+and practically instructs on another. I happened to be present at one
+of the latter. Conceive my surprise at finding myself in a large library
+filled with tables, drawing books, ladies and gentlemen all sketching
+either from nature or excellent copies here. As it was not a public day
+except to those who wished to attend for instruction, I ought not with
+propriety to have intruded, but "J'étais Anglois" and every attention
+was paid. You would have given a little finger to have seen the room; it
+was a hot summer's day, but there all was cool and fragrant; the windows
+opened on the gardens, the tables were covered with groupes of flowers
+in vases; the company, about 40, were seated up and down where ever they
+chose, each with a nice desk and drawing board--in short, it was a scene
+which excited feelings of respect for a nation which thus patronised
+everything which could add to the rational improvement of its members.
+Were France the seat of religion and pure virtue it would be Utopia
+verified; but, alas! there are spots which stain the picture and cast a
+balance decidedly in favour of England: we are rough, we are
+narrow-minded, but he who travels is brought to confess and say
+"England! with all thy faults I love thee still." ...
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+PARIS, _July 10th_.
+
+Madame de Staëls party formed a fine contrast to the gloom and
+ponderosity of Sir Charles Stuart's dinner the day before. We went a
+quarter before nine, thinking, as it was the nominal hour, it would be
+ill-bred to go too early, but the French are more punctual in these
+matters, for we found the good people all assembled and Marmont[49]
+walked out not five minutes before we walked in.
+
+In his stead we had General Lafayette,[50] the cornerstone of the
+Revolution. He is a tall, clumsy-made man, not much unlike Dr.
+Nightingale, tho' rather thinner. His countenance discovers thought and
+sound judgment, but by no means quickness or brilliancy; his manners
+were quiet, unassuming, and gentleman-like. He spoke little, and then
+said nothing particularly worth notice.
+
+The next lion announced was a lioness, the celebrated Madame
+Récamier,[51] and though she is not in her première jeunesse, I can
+easily conceive how she could once dazzle the world. It would be too
+much to give her credit for superior talents, but her manners were very
+agreeable tho' rather like all other belles of France who have fallen in
+my way, somewhat à la languissante. But I am all this while forgetting
+the star of the evening, the Baroness herself. She sat in a line with
+about six ladies, before whom were arranged as many gentlemen, all
+listening to the oracular tongue of their political Sybil.
+
+She was in high spirits because she had been warmed up by the decision
+of the court and commons concerning the liberty of the press, which had
+received an effectual check by limiting all liberty of speech and
+opinion to works containing not less than 480 pages, thus excluding the
+papers and pamphlets. The moment we were announced, before she asked me
+how I did, she enquired whether I had heard this notable decision, and
+then demanded what I thought of it. Of course, I assured her how much I
+lamented the prospect of an inundation of dull, prolix books to which
+France was thus inevitably exposed. This, as we spoke in English, she
+immediately translated for the benefit of the company, adding "Ce
+Monsieur Anglois dit cela, et c'est bien vrai il a raison," and then she
+laughed and seemed to enjoy the catalogue of stupid books which might be
+anticipated.
+
+I must confess the party was a little formidable; in England I should
+have said formal, but there is something in French manners wholly
+foreign to any application of the word formal, and really after
+exchanging a few remarks I was glad to be introduced to her son[52] and
+daughter,[53] with both of whom I was much pleased. They are clever and
+agreeable. She is not above eighteen or twenty, and if her complexion
+was good would be very pretty. She was not shy, beginning conversation
+in a trice upon interesting subjects. She compared the English and
+French character, in which she (and I presume it was a maternal opinion)
+would not allow an atom of merit to the latter. On finding that I was a
+clergyman she immediately began upon Religion, talked of Hodgson,[54]
+Andrews, Wilberforce,[55] and then in questioning me about the
+Methodists (about whom she seemed to have heard much and entertained
+confused notions) we slid into mysticism, which carried us, of course,
+into the third vol. of "Allemagne"; she spoke in raptures of the mystic
+school, said she was quite one in heart--"Cela se peut," thought I; but
+somehow or other "Je ne le crois pas," for I have heard some little
+anecdotes of her mother, in which, whatever may be her theoretical views
+of mysticism, her practical opinions are rather more lax than Fénelon's.
+Much against my will I took my leave, willing to hope that Mme. S. spoke
+the truth when she said how glad she should be to see me if I visited
+Paris during the winter; she is off to Switzerland in a few days. The
+French say we have spoilt her--in fact, she occupies little of the
+public attention in Paris.
+
+The next event most interesting was our visit to the Corps Législatif,
+or House of Commons. We went to a certain door, to which we were refused
+admittance, and told it was too full or too late. But said I, "Nous
+sommes Anglois"; in an instant a man came up and placed us in an inner
+gallery in the body of the house. The House is something like the Royal
+Institution--of course larger and beautifully fitted up. Considering it
+as the Royal Institution for your better comprehension, the President
+sits on a tribunal throne in a recess corresponding to the fire-place;
+immediately below is a sort of Rostrum from whence the Members speak, in
+situation like the lecturer of the R.I. In point of decoration and
+external appearance both of house and members, it is far superior to our
+House of Commons, as all the members wear uniforms of blue and gold, but
+taking it all together I know not that anything can be more illustrative
+of the French Character--externally all correct and delightful, but
+within "a sad rottenness of the state of Denmark."
+
+The president began the proceedings by ringing a bell; a paper was then
+read detailing, I believe, the orders of the day. A member then arose
+and went to the Rostrum. In the middle of his speech he was called to
+order and told it was a very bad speech, so down he came and another
+mounted. He was equally disliked, for they told him he spoke too low and
+they could not hear him, so he disappeared; then half a dozen got up and
+were so impatient that they began speaking altogether before they
+reached the Tribune. In vain did the President ring his bell, and stand
+up and gesticulate. Silence, however, was at length obtained, and he
+addressed them, but with little better success than the rest. One man
+then stept forward and did obtain a hearing, for he had good lungs and a
+fair share of eloquence. His speech was short, but it was by far the
+best; his name was Dumolard.[56] Soon afterwards the sitting broke up;
+the whole took up little more than an hour. I know not whether the
+perfect want of order was more ridiculous or disgusting; the sittings of
+the Senate (Peers) are private....
+
+We will now take you to Malmaison, the interesting retreat of the
+interesting Joséphine. Her character was scarcely known in England. We
+hear little more of her than as a discarded Empress or Mistress of
+Buonaparte's, but she had much to recommend her to public as well as
+private notice. The French all speak highly of her, and it is
+impossible, on seeing Malmaison and hearing of her virtues, not to join
+in their opinion. To be sure, as a Frenchman told me in running through
+a list of virtues, "Elle avait été un peu libertine, mais ce n'est rien
+cela," and, indeed, I could almost have added, "C'est bien vrai," for
+every allowance should be made; consider the situation in which she was
+placed, her education, her temptations; many a saint might have fallen
+from the eminence on which she stood; I never dwelt with more
+satisfaction or felt more inclined to coincide in that benevolent
+verdict of the best of judges of human nature and human frailty,
+"Neither do I condemn thee, go and sin no more," than in criticising the
+character of Joséphine.
+
+[Illustration: MALMAISON]
+
+I am not sure whether you know exactly the history of Malmaison. The
+house and land attached to it were purchased by Buonaparte when First
+Consul, and given to Joséphine, who made it what it is, and bought more
+land, so that it is now in fact a little Estate. On being divorced, she
+retired thither with Eugène Beauharnais, her son, and younger children.
+Her pursuits and occupations will be best understood by describing what
+we saw. I should say, before I proceed, that it required some interest
+to get in, and that we went with the Hibberts, who knew the secretary of
+the Swedish Ambassador, in whose suite we were incorporated for
+admission. The chief room in the house is what is called the Gallery A,
+planned and finished according to her own designs; the floor is a mass
+of dark inlaid marble, the ceiling arched and light admitted from it,
+the whole not much unlike the Gallery at Winnington on a much larger
+scale. It would be difficult to describe the fitting up of the interior.
+The walls are hung with the most exquisite selections from ancient
+Masters, not stolen, but many given to her, and the rest purchased by
+herself; but I was more struck by the statues than with any thing else.
+The dots represent them and their situations in the Gallery; they are
+chiefly by two modern artists, Canova and Boher, though I fear the
+reputation of my taste and judgment will suffer by the confession. I
+still must confess that I felt far more pleasure than in looking either
+upon Apollo or the Venus de Medicis. There was a Bust and Statue of
+herself, the latter particularly beautiful, and if accurate, which I was
+assured it was, the original must have been elegant and interesting to
+the last degree. It reminded me much of Lady Charlemont, with a stronger
+expression of sense. The rest of the room was furnished with tables
+inlaid with marble, upon which were a variety of bronzes, pieces of
+armour, &c., and her musical instruments were as she had left them, and
+everything wore an appearance of comfort which is seldom seen in the
+midst of such magnificence. Through folding doors you enter into a
+smaller room hung with pictures. C. was her chapel; before a little
+unostentatious altar, which had every appearance of having daily
+witnessed her devotions, was a beautiful Raphael; the walls were hung
+with seven small Scripture subjects by Poussin. I would have given a
+great deal to have been her invisible observer in this sacred
+retirement. She must have been alone, for it was scarcely large enough
+to admit priest or attendant.
+
+D. was a room in which she breakfasted, during which time music was
+generally performed in B. From E. was a fine view of the Aqueduct of
+Marly, and E. was the way to the Garden, which she had fitted up in the
+English style. I have not time to enter into detail of these or her
+greenhouses. She was fond of Society and patronised the Arts. She
+allowed Artists to sit at leisure in her gallery to copy pictures, and
+conversed with them a great deal. She did an infinity of good to all
+within her reach and was beloved by all. Her death was very sudden; she
+had complained of a sore throat, but not sufficiently to confine her to
+her room. On a certain Wednesday or Thursday she was in her Park in high
+spirits, showing it to the Emperor Alexander and King of Prussia; being
+rather heated she drank some iced water; in the evening she was worse,
+on Sunday she was dead, sensible to the last; talked of death, seemed
+perfectly resigned--to use the words of a French lady, who told me many
+interesting particulars, "sa mort était très chrétienne." They were
+busied in packing pictures and making catalogues, but I believe there is
+no fear of dismantling the house, as Eugène Beauharnais[57] and the
+children are to have it in conformity to her will.[58] I have seen few
+things since my departure from England which have interested me more
+than Malmaison, and I could almost fancy that her statue, which is that
+of a pensive female, with the chin resting on the hand, was her ghost
+ruminating over the extraordinary events which had recently occurred,
+and which she had quitted for ever. You will see Malmaison in my
+sketch-book, as well as the Castle of Vincennes, which is as picturesque
+and imposing as it is interesting, from the circumstances attending the
+Duke d'Enghien's[59] death. It seems this event was known at Paris the
+next day and spoken of with as much freedom as the despotic government
+of Paris would admit....
+
+I went yesterday to see the house of Peers in the Luxembourg. The Hall
+of sittings is not unlike that of the Corps Législatif, but the
+decorations are more interesting, each niche being filled with Austrian
+standards and a few others. Under a gilt dome, supported by similar
+pillars, was the spot where Napoleon's throne was _not_. The remnants I
+saw lying in one of the Ante-rooms, all of which were ornamented with
+immense pictures of the principal battles, but these, out of compliment
+to the Emperor, &c., had been covered over with green baize, even the
+very standards had been removed during the stay of the Emperor of
+Austria in Paris. There is a sitting on Tuesday, and if I stand at the
+door I may see the Marshals alight, but my curiosity would not be
+satisfied, as no persons seem to know them; even the man who shewed us
+the hall, who actually keeps the door thro' which they enter and sees
+them all constantly, assured me he did not know one from the other. He
+did not even know whether Marmont[60] had one arm or two.
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+PARIS, _July 11th_.
+
+Thanks to our Landlord, and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we have just been
+elbowing the Marshals, as a serjeant of the National Guard offered to
+take us into the Thuilleries, and in we went with him in full uniform,
+on the very best day we could have selected since our arrival in Paris,
+as a corps of about 10 or 15,000 men were to be reviewed by the King "en
+masse" in the Place de Carousel, immediately in front of the
+Thuilleries.
+
+We were stationed in a room of which I had heard much and wished above
+all things to see--"la Salle des Maréchaux," so called from the
+full-length portraits of 18 of these gentlemen with which it is hung;
+the upper part of the room is surrounded by a gallery decorated with
+pictures of the chief battles--Lodi, Passage of the Po, and one sea
+piece descriptive of the capture of our Frigate, the _Ambuscade_, by a
+smaller vessel. It is so good a picture that for the sake of the
+painting I never thought of lamenting the subject.
+
+After standing in this Hall for a few minutes in the midst of Generals
+without number in full uniform, I had the satisfaction of being almost
+knocked over by Marshal Jourdan,[61] a sharp, queer-looking fellow not
+at all stamped with the features of a hero. I eyed him well, and had
+scarcely satiated my curiosity when half a dozen more came by, walking
+about without peculiar honors or attention, and only to be distinguished
+from the Generals by a broad red ribbon, worn like those of our Knights
+of the Bath.
+
+I looked at each and all, but as few could tell their names I was at a
+loss to distinguish one from another; my head and eyes were in a perfect
+fidget, flying from Marshal to Marshal and from Picture to Picture.
+
+Of the Ducs de Treviso,[62] de Conegliano,[63] Serurier,[64] and
+Perignan[65] I had no doubt, as I saw them again several times, but I am
+not sure that I should know the others except from a recollection of
+their pictures.
+
+I will describe a few while their countenances are fresh upon my memory.
+
+Ney[66] is a fine, handsome man, but remarkably fair with light curling
+hair, and struck us very like Mrs. Parker, of Astle.
+
+Duc d'Istria[67] was reckoned by Robert Hibbert like me--that is to say,
+he had dark arched eyebrows, a fox-like sort of countenance, very dark,
+almost swarthy, and from his extreme bilious appearance, I should
+imagine might be troubled, like myself, with bad headaches.
+
+Davoust![68] I can scarcely recall his portrait without shuddering. If
+ever an evil spirit peeped thro' the visage of a human being, it was in
+Davoust. Every bad passion seemed to have set its mark on his face:
+nothing grand, warlike, or dignified. It was all dark, cruel, cunning,
+and malevolent. His body, too, seemed to partake of his character. I
+should fancy he was rather deformed. I never saw so good a Richard III.
+Let him pass and make way for one of a different description,
+Victor,[69] a fine, open, gentlemanly countenance, tho' not like a
+military hero. Marmont, a dark haired, sharp-looking man of military
+stature. Duc de Dantzig,[70] very ugly and squinting. Berthier,[71]
+remarkably quiet and intelligent. Murat,[72] an effeminate coxcomb with
+no characteristic but that of self-satisfaction. Moncey, a respectable
+veteran. Massèna,[73] the most military of all, dark hair and
+countenance, fine figure. Soult,[74] a stern soldier, vulgar but
+energetic; his mouth and lower part of his face like Edridge,[75] though
+not so large a man.
+
+The King was to me a very secondary person; however, I was close to him
+as he tottered, like a good old well-meaning man, to Mass. On his return
+he appeared, as I described last Sunday, in the balcony facing the
+gardens for a few minutes and was loudly cheered, and then he came back
+to the Salle des Maréchaux and sat down in a fine chair of Bonaparte's,
+covered all over with his Bees, in a Balcony facing the Place de
+Carousel, from whence he looked down on the 10,000 troops who were there
+assembled. The shouts here were not what they ought to have been.
+Comparatively few cried "God bless him!" and I much fear the number who
+thought it was still less. The Duc de Berri,[76] on horseback with
+Marshal Moncey on one side and Du Pont[77] on the other, reviewed the
+troops, who passed in companies and troops before them. As each company
+passed the officer held up his sword and cried "Vive le Roi!" and some
+of the soldiers did the same, but not more than one out of ten.
+
+I heard an anecdote of the Duc de Berri which is, I hope, true. A few
+days ago in reviewing some troops on the Champs Elysées an officer in
+passing chose to cry out, "Vive Napoléon!" upon which the Duc rode up
+to him, tore his Epaulette from his shoulder and order from his breast,
+threw them on the ground, and instantly dismissed him the service; this
+spirit pleased the soldiers, and they all shouted "Vive le Roi!"
+
+On Saturday we went to St. Cloud, Versailles, and the great and little
+Trianon. St. Cloud and the great Trianon were the especial residences of
+Buonaparte, and I looked at his bed and tables and chairs with some
+curiosity. I have not time to describe all these. I saw one public place
+yesterday which should be mentioned, a museum of models in every
+department of art and science, with all the machines, &c., connected
+with them. I would willingly conclude my observations on Paris with some
+remarks on its manners, principles, &c., and I would begin with Religion
+first if I could, but the fact is there appears to be none. If any does
+exist it must approximate to Mysticism and lie concealed in the recesses
+of the heart, for truly "the right hand knoweth not what the left hand
+doeth." But with all this non-appearance I should be cautious in passing
+too severe a censure. It must be remembered that the nation is military,
+that from the earliest years they "sing of arms," and Buonaparte carried
+this to such a degree that even children not much older than Owen[78]
+are to be seen in full Uniforms. He wished to incorporate the two terms
+of man and soldier. We laughed, you remember, at the account of the
+little King of Rome appearing in Uniform; in Paris this would not appear
+ridiculous. He had uniforms of all the favourite regiments horse and
+foot....
+
+[Illustration: PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS.
+
+_to face p. 141._]
+
+But yet there appears to be less vice than in England, I should rather
+say less organised vice; I have not heard of a single Robbery, public or
+private--I walk without fear of pickpockets; I should be inclined to say
+they seemed rather against themselves than against each other. Their
+principles may be more relaxed on some points than ours, but I doubt
+much whether a Frenchman would not be as much disgusted in England as an
+Englishman could possibly be in France; we call them a profligate race
+and condemn them in toto--something like Hudibras' John Bull--
+
+    "Compounds for sin he is inclined to
+     By damning those he has no mind to."
+
+Their public walks and Theatres are less offensive to decency than ours.
+Drunkenness is scarcely known; at first sight I should pronounce them an
+idle, indolent people; the streets are almost always full; the gardens,
+public walks, &c., swarm at all hours with saunterers. According to my
+ideas a Frenchman's life must be wretched, for he does not seem at all
+to enter into the charms of home--their houses are not calculated for
+it; they huddle together in nooks and corners, and the male part
+(judging from the multitudes I daily see) leave the women and children
+to get through the day as they can.
+
+Their coffee-houses are some of them quite extraordinary; most of them
+are ornamented with Mirrors in abundance, but some shine with more
+splendour. In the Palais Royal there is one called "Le Café de mille
+Colonnes," which merits some description. It consists of three or four
+rooms--the largest is almost one mass of plate-glass Mirrors, beautiful
+clocks at each end, and magnificent chandeliers; behind a raised Table
+of most superb structure, composed of slabs of marble and plate-glass,
+sat a lady dressed in the richest manner, Diamonds on head and hand,
+Lace, Muslin, &c. This is the Landlady; by her a little boy, about 4
+years old, stood in charge of a drawer from whence the small change was
+issued; this, if it happened to be copper, was delicately touched by the
+fair hand, which was immediately washed in a glass of water as if
+contaminated by the vulgar metal. She never spoke to the waiters, but
+rung a golden bell; her inkstands, flower jars--in short, every article
+on the table was of the same metal or of silver gilt. The tables for the
+company were fine marble slabs; the room was from the reflection of all
+the mirrors, as you may suppose, a perfect blaze of light, and yet
+altogether the place looked dirty, from the undress and shabby coats of
+the company. The French never dress for the evening unless going out to
+parties, and they always look dirty and unlike gentlemen; the former is
+not the case, in fact for they are constantly washing and bathing. An
+hour or two before I was in this extraordinary coffee-house I had
+traversed a spot as opposite to it as could well be--the Catacombs!--a
+range of vaults nearly half a mile long, about 80 feet under ground, in
+which are deposited all the bones from all the cemeteries in Paris. I
+suppose we were in company with some millions of skeletons, whose skulls
+are so arranged as to form regular patterns, and here and there was an
+altar made of bones fancifully piled up, on the sides an inscription in
+Latin, French, &c. Behind one wall the bodies of all who perished in the
+massacres in Paris were immured. They were brought in carts at night and
+thrown in, and there they rest, festering not in their shrouds but in
+clothes. Such a mass of corrupt flesh would soon have infested all the
+vaults, so they were bricked up.
+
+[Illustration: Catacombs Paris, July 8, 1814]
+
+I wish to recommend our hotel to any people you may hear of coming to
+Paris--Hôtel des Estrangers, Rue du Hazard, kept by Mr. Meriel. Its
+situation is both quiet and convenient; it is really not five minutes'
+walk from the leading objects of Paris, and the people have been civil
+to us beyond measure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY
+
+The Ex-Imperial Guard--Anecdotes of the last days at
+Fontainebleau--Invalided Cossacks--"Trahison"--Ruin and
+desolation--Roast dog--An English soldier--A Trappist veteran--Jack
+boots--Polytechnic cadets--A Russian officer--Cossacks, Kalmucks,
+and sparrows--Prussians and British lions--Rhine Castles--Rival
+inscriptions--Diligence atmosphere--Brisemaison--Sociable English.
+
+
+On leaving Paris, Edward Stanley planned to follow the traces of the
+desperate campaign which Napoleon had fought in the early months of that
+year (1814) against the Allies, and in which he so nearly succeeded in
+saving his crown for a time.
+
+As, however, the English travellers did not intend to return again to
+Paris, they reversed Napoleon's line of march and started to
+Fontainebleau by the road along which the Emperor rode back in hot haste
+on the night of March 30th, to take up the command of the force which
+should have been defending his capital, and where the sight of Mortier's
+flying troops convinced him that all hope was at an end.
+
+When they had visited Fontainebleau, where the final abdication had
+taken place on April 11th, they turned north-east to Melun and posted on
+through towns which had been the scenes of some of the most desperate
+fighting in that wonderful campaign, when Napoleon had seemed to be
+everywhere at once, dealing blows right and left against the three
+armies which, in the beginning of January, had advanced to threaten his
+Empire--Bülow in the north, Blücher on the east, and Schwarzenberg on
+the south.
+
+They passed through Guignes and Meaux, by which Napoleon's army had
+marched after his victory over Blücher at Vauchamps on February 14th, in
+the rapid movement to reinforce Marshal Victor, and to drive back
+Schwarzenberg from the Seine.
+
+Through Château Thierry, where on the 12th of February the Emperor and
+Marshal Mortier had pursued Russians and Prussians from street to street
+till they were driven over the Marne, and whence the French leader
+dashed after Blücher to Vauchamps.
+
+Through Soissons, which the Russians under Winzengerode had bombarded on
+March 3rd, and forced to surrender, whereby Blücher and Bülow were
+enabled to join hands.
+
+Through Laon, where Blücher retreated after Craonne, and where he
+finally shattered Marmont's forces in a night attack.
+
+By Berry au Bac, where the Emperor crossed the Aisne on his way to fight
+Blücher at Craonne, the scene on March 7th of one of the bloodiest
+battles of the war.
+
+On to Rheims where, after Marmont's disaster at Laon, Napoleon beat the
+Russians just before he was forced to rush southwards again to contend
+with Schwarzenberg and his Austrians.
+
+Finally they reached Châlons, which had been Napoleon's starting-point
+for the whole campaign, and where he had arrived in the closing days of
+January after having taken his last farewell of Marie Louise and of the
+King of Rome.
+
+After Châlons they turned eastwards, following the line of fortresses
+for which Napoleon had staked and lost his crown, and reached the Rhine
+by Verdun, Metz, and Mayence; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle, Lille, and
+Brussels, which had by the Treaty of Paris, in May, been ceded with the
+whole of Belgium to the Netherlands.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Wife._
+
+MELUN, _July 14th_.
+
+We quitted our Hotel yesterday morning at six for Fontainebleau.
+
+There is nothing particularly interesting about the road, which is
+almost an incessant avenue. About half-way we passed a fine Château of
+Marshal Jourdan's.
+
+The forest of Fontainebleau commences about four miles from the town and
+extends some nine or ten miles in all directions. At first I was in
+hopes of being gratified with the sight of fine woods, but, with the
+exception of a few patches of good oaks, the remainder is little better
+than underwood and dwarflings.
+
+We went into the heart of the forest to see an old Hermitage now
+inhabited by a keeper and his family. They had been visited by Cossacks,
+but had received no injury whatever; on the contrary the poor woman
+related with all the eloquence of Truth and the French animation that
+from their own soldiers they had suffered all that cruelty and rapacity
+could devise--indeed, the house and gardens bore evidence to the
+facts--window shutters pierced with bullets, broken doors, furniture
+gone, and above 800 francs' worth of honey destroyed out of pure
+wantonness--in short the poor people seemed quite ruined. I received a
+similar account in the town. Fontainebleau is a dull, melancholy-looking
+place, with a very extensive ugly palace--interesting only from the late
+events. Scarcely a soul appeared about; we crossed the large court in
+which Buonaparte took his last farewell and embraced the Imperial
+Eagles, called by some loyal French "The vile Cuckoos." Our hostess was,
+I presume, a staunch imperialist, who thought she could not shew her
+zeal for the Emperor in a stronger manner than by imposing on
+Englishmen. She began by asking 16s. for a plate of 8 little wretched
+mutton chops; we resented the imposition, although the sudden appearance
+of 4 or 5 officers of the imperial guard almost rendered it doubtful
+whether we ought to act too warmly on the defensive, as they seemed to
+patronise our hostess; however, we refused to pay and retired unimposed
+upon.
+
+The imperial guard here are supposed to be particularly attached to the
+Emperor, and of course averse to Englishmen, but I was agreeably
+surprised to find three out of the four really something like gentlemen
+in their manners; we entered into conversation, which I managed as
+dexterously as I could, manœuvering between the evil of sacrificing my
+own opinions on one side, and of giving them offence on the other; it
+was a nice point, as I perceived a word beyond the line of demarcation
+would have inflamed them in a trice. One happened to differ with another
+on a political point, which produced a loud and rapid stamping with the
+feet, accompanied by a course of pirouets on the heel with the velocity
+of a dervish, which fully proved what might be effected on their tempers
+had I been disposed to try the experiment. They called themselves the
+Ex-Imperial Guard. On retiring I shook hands with them, and with as low
+a bow as the little King of Rome, said "Messieurs les Gardes d'Honneur,
+Je vous salue." ...
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+_Monday, July 19th._
+
+...The history of Buonaparte immediately preceding, and subsequent to
+the surrender of Paris, was never actually known--I will give it you.
+
+The capitulation took place on the 30th (March). In the evening of that
+day he arrived at Fontainebleau without his army. Rumours of fighting
+near Paris had reached him. He almost immediately set off with Berthier
+in his carriage for Paris, and actually arrived at Villejuif, only 6
+miles from the capital; when he heard the result he turned about and
+appeared again at Fontainebleau at 9 the next morning. When he alighted,
+the person who handed him out, a sort of head-porter of the Palace, who
+was our guide, told me he looked "triste, bien triste"; he spoke to
+nobody, went upstairs as fast as he could, and then called for his plans
+and maps; his occupation during the whole time he staid consisted in
+writing and looking over papers, but to what this writing and these
+papers related the world may feel but will never know; his spirits were
+by no means broken down; in a day or two he was pretty much as usual,
+and it is said he signed the Abdication without the least apparent
+emotion. We heard he was mad, but I can assure you from undoubted
+authority that he was perfectly well in mind and body the whole time,
+and, notwithstanding his excessive fatigues, as corpulent as ever;
+indeed, said our guide, "War seems to agree with him better than with
+any man I ever knew." Buonaparte laid out immense sums in furnishing and
+beautifying the Palais here. I got into his library, the snuggest room
+you ever saw, immediately below a little study in which he always sat
+and settled his affairs; his arm-chair was a very comfortable, honest,
+plain arm-chair, but I looked in vain for all the gashes and notches
+which it was said he was wont to inflict upon it. I could not perceive
+a scratch, he was too busily employed in that said chair in forming
+plans for cutting up Europe; within three yards of his table was a
+little door, or rather trap door, by which you descended down the oddest
+spiral staircase you ever beheld into the Library, which was low and
+small; the books were few of them new, almost all standard works upon
+history--at least I am sure 4 out of 5 were historical--all of his own
+selection, and each stamped, as in fact was everything else from high to
+low, far and wide, with his N., or his Bees or his Eagle--all of which
+Louis XVIII is as busily employed in effacing, which alone will give him
+ample employment: but to return to the books. Amongst the rest I
+found--Shakespeare ... and a whole range of Ecclesiastical History,
+which, if ever read, might account in some degree for his shutting up
+the Pope as the existing representative of the animals who have
+occasioned half the feuds and divisions therein recorded. There was a
+Chapel, which he regularly attended on Sundays and Saints' days. His
+State bed was a sort of State business, very uncomfortable, consisting
+of 5 or 6 mattresses under a royal canopy with 2 Satin Pillows at each
+end.
+
+During his residence he never stirred beyond the gates, though I could
+not discover that he was at all under restraint, or in any way looked
+upon as a prisoner; we were told in England (what are we not told
+there?) that he feared the people, who would have torn him in pieces;
+this is an idle story. I rather suspect the people liked him too well,
+besides which his Guards were there, and by them he is idolised. He
+generally took exercise in a long and beautiful Gallery, called the
+Gallery of Francis I., on both sides of which were busts of his great
+Generals on panels ornamented with the N., and some name above alluding
+to a victory; thus above one N. was _Nazareth_, which puzzled me at
+first, but I afterwards heard he had cut up some Turks there; besides
+the Gallery, he walked every day up and down a Terrace; he dined every
+day in a miserable (I speak comparatively) little passage room without
+any shew of state; he was affable to his attendants and is liked by
+them. His abdication room is not one of the state apartments--it is a
+shabby ante-room; I could almost fancy that in performing this
+humiliating deed he had retired as far as possible from the Halls and
+Saloons which were decorated by his hand, and had witnessed his Imperial
+magnificence. Most of the Marshals were in the room, and it would have
+been a tour indeed to have glided through the hearts of each when such
+an extraordinary performance was transacting. It was in the great Court
+before the Palace that he took his leave, not above 1,500 troops were
+present. At such a moment to have heard such a speech, delivered with
+the dignity and stage effect Buonaparte well knew how to give, must have
+produced a strong effect--how great (how sad I had almost said) the
+contrast!
+
+The stones were overgrown with grass; nobody appeared, no voice was
+heard except the clacking of half a dozen old women who were weeding on
+their knees, and all the windows were closed. The dreary, deserted
+present compared with the magnificent past excited nearly the same
+feelings as if I had been looking on Tadmor in the wilderness. After
+passing the Imperial prison we were ushered into the apartments of the
+Imperial prisoners, the poor Pope and his 16 Cardinals. I had quite
+forgotten the place of their confinement, and was a little surprised
+when the man said, "Here, Sir, dwelt for 19 months the holy Conclave of
+St. Peter." He must have led a miserable life, for though he was allowed
+two carriages, with 6 and 8 horses to each, he neither stirred out
+himself nor allowed any of the Cardinals to so do, saying he did not
+think it right for prisoners. Buonaparte saw him in January, I think the
+man said, for the last time. So much for Fontainebleau. Few have
+followed their master to Elba. Roustan the Mameluke and Constant his
+Valet were certainly very ungrateful; one of them--I forget which--to
+whom Buonaparte had given 25,000 fr. (about £1,200) the day before he
+left Fontainebleau, applied to the Duc de Berri for admission into his
+service; in reply the Duc told him his gratitude ought to have carried
+him to Elba, but though it had not, if he (the Duke) ever heard that
+Buonaparte wished to have him there, he would bind him hand and foot and
+send him immediately. None of the Royal allies have been to
+Fontainebleau at the time or since, except the King of Prussia, who
+came incog. a few days ago. This the guide said he had heard since; he
+had, indeed, seen three persons walking about, but he had not shewn them
+the Palace nor spoken to them. That it was the King of Prussia was
+confirmed by a curious little memorandum I found wafered over a high
+glass on the top of the room in which we dined, and which caught my eye
+immediately; I shewed it to the people of the house, who said they had
+not observed it before, but remembered three gentlemen dining there on
+that day. "Sa Majesté le Roi de Prusse accompagné du Prince Guillaume
+son fils a diné en cette appartement avec son premier Chambellan Mr.
+Baron D'Ambolle, le 8 Juillet, 1814." ... This is the way the King of
+Prussia always went about in Paris, nobody knew him or saw him....
+
+From Fontainebleau we went to Melun and kept proceeding through Guignes
+to Meaux. At Guignes we began to hear of the effects of war: 15,000
+Russians had been bivouacked above the town for a week. Buonaparte
+advanced with his troops, on which they retired, but troops do not walk
+up and down the earth like lambs, but rather like roaring lions, seeking
+whom they may devour; however, here let us insert once for all the
+account I have invariably received from sufferers throughout the whole
+Theatre of war--that the conduct of the Russians and French was widely
+different; the former generally behaving as well as could possibly be
+expected, and pillaging only from necessity; the latter seem to have
+made havoc and devastation their delight. They might perhaps act on
+principle, conceiving that it was better for the treasure and good
+things of the land to fall into their hands than the enemy's.
+
+At a little shabby inn at Guignes where we breakfasted Buonaparte had
+slept. The people described him dressed "comme un perruquier" in a grey
+great-coat; he clattered into the house, bustled about, went to his room
+early, and appeared again at 9 the next morning, but "J'en reponds bien"
+that he was not sleeping all that time. If from Guignes we traversed a
+country where we heard of war, at Meaux we began to see the
+effects--before a picturesque gateway we descended to cross the bridge
+over a stone arch which had been blown up. Shot-holes marked the wall,
+and within the houses were well bespattered with musket balls. It was
+the first visible field of battle we had crossed, and to heighten the
+interest, while we were looking about and asking particulars of the
+people, up came bands of Russian troops of all descriptions, Cossacks
+included, 1,500 having just entered the town invalided from Paris on
+their return home. To be sure, a more filthy set I never beheld. The
+country is pretty well stocked with Cossack horses; they were purchased
+at a very cheap rate--from 25 shillings to 50 a piece. We have had
+several of them in our carriage, and find them far more active and rapid
+than the French, though smaller and more miserable in appearance. My
+conversation with the Russians (for I made it a point to speak to
+everybody) was rather laconic, and generally ran thus, "Vous Russe, moi
+Inglis"--the answer, "You Inglis, moi Russe, we brothers"--and then I
+generally got a tap on the shoulder and a broad grin of approbation
+which terminated the conference.
+
+You know the chief event which occurred at Meaux was the explosion of
+the powder magazines by the French on their retreat, for which they were
+most severely, and, I think, unjustly, censured in our
+despatches--indeed, after seeing and hearing with my own eyes and ears,
+I feel less than ever inclined to put implicit faith in these public
+documents. The Magazine was in a large house where wines had been stored
+in the cellar--about half a mile to the west of the town upon a hill.
+About 3 o'clock in the morning the explosion took place with an
+"_ébranlement_" which shook the town to its very foundation. In an
+instant every pane of glass was shattered to atoms, but the cathedral
+windows, which were composed of small squares in lead, escaped tolerably
+well, only here and there some patches being forced out. The tiles also
+partook of the general crash. Many, of course, were broken by the shower
+of shot, stones, &c., which fell, but the actual concussion destroyed
+the greater part. Numbers of houses were remaining in their dilapidated
+state, and presented a curious scene. We went to see the spot where the
+house stood, for the house itself, like the temple of Loretto,
+disappeared altogether. Some others near it were on their last
+legs--top, beams, doors, all blown away. Even the trees in a garden were
+in part thrown down, and the larger ones much excoriated. Only one
+person was killed on the spot, supposed to have been a marauder who was
+pillaging near the place. Another person about half a mile off, driving
+away his furniture to a place of safety, was wounded, and died soon
+afterwards.
+
+From Meaux, I may say almost all the way to Châlons, a distance of above
+150 miles, the country bore lamentable marks of the scourge with which
+it has been afflicted. I will allow you--I would allow myself perhaps,
+when I look back to the circumstances connected with the war--to wish
+that all the country, Paris included, had been sacked and pillaged as a
+just punishment, or rather as the sole mode of convincing these
+infatuated people that they are the conquered and not the Conqueror of
+the Allies. Wherever I go, whatever field of battle I see--be it Craon,
+Laon, Soissons, or elsewhere--victory is never accorded to the Russians.
+"Oh non, les Russes étaient toujours vaincus." One fellow who had been
+one of Buonaparte's guides at Craon had the impudence to assure me that
+the moment he appeared the Allies ran away. "Aye, but," said I, "how
+came the French to retreat and leave them alone?" "Oh, because just then
+the _trahison_ which had been all arranged 19 months before began to
+appear."
+
+Again, at Laon I was assured that the French drove all before them, and
+gained the heights. "Then," said I, "why did not they stay there?" "Oh,
+then reappeared '_la petite trahison_,'" and so they go on, and well do
+they deserve, and heartily do I wish, to have their pride and impudence
+lowered. But when I see what war is, when I see the devastation this
+comet bears in its sweeping tail, its dreadful impartiality involving
+alike the innocent and the guilty, I should be very sorry if it depended
+on me to pronounce sentence, or cry "havoc and let loose." ...
+
+On the 14th we slept at Château Thierry--such an Inn, and such insolent
+pigs of people! Spain was scarcely worse ... added to the filthiness of
+the place, a diligence happened at the same time to pour forth its
+contents in the shape of a crew of the most vulgar, dirty French
+officers I ever saw. It was well we had no communication with them, for
+by the conversation I overheard in the next room there would have been
+little mutual satisfaction: "Oh! voici un regiment (alluding to us 5) de
+ces Anglois dans la maison! où vont-ils les Coquins?" "Moi je ne sais
+pas, les vilains!" Luckily they all tumbled upstairs to bed very soon,
+each with a cigar smoking and puffing from beneath the penthouse of
+their huge moustachios, during their ascent, by the by, keeping the
+Landlady in hot water lest they should break into her best bedroom, of
+which she carefully kept the key, telling me at the same time she was
+afraid of their insisting upon having clean sheets. By their appearance,
+however, I did not conceive her to be in much danger of so unfair a
+demand. We had the clean sheets, damp enough, but no matter--she
+remembered them in the Bill most handsomely, and when I remonstrated
+against some of her charges, for I must observe that we dined in a
+wretched hole with our postillions, she checked me by saying, "Comment,
+Monsieur, c'est trop! Cela ne se peut pas; comme tout ici est si
+charmant." ... There was no reply to be made to such an appeal, so I
+bowed, paid, and retired. Then the bridge was blown up, the streets
+speckled with bullets. Near the bridge, which had been smartly
+contested, the houses were actually riddled, yet here the Emperor stood
+exposed as quiet and unconcerned amidst the balls as if (to use their
+own expression) he had been "chez lui."
+
+As we advanced the marks of war became stronger and stronger, every
+village wore a rueful aspect, and every individual told a tale more and
+more harrowing to the feelings. The Postmasters seem to have been the
+greatest sufferers, as their situation demanded a large supply of corn,
+horses and forage, all of which, even to the chickens, were carried off.
+One poor woman, wife of a postmaster, a very well-behaved,
+gentlewoman-like sort of person, told me that when 80,000 Russians came
+to their town she escaped into the woods (you will remember the snow was
+then deep on the ground and the cold excessive) where for two days she
+and her family had nothing to eat. The Cossacks then found her, but did
+no harm, only asking for food. I mention her case not as singular, for
+it was the lot of thousands, but merely to shew what people must expect
+when Enemies approach.
+
+Soissons was the next place, and compared with the scene of desolation
+there presented all that we had hitherto seen was trifling.
+
+I little thought last February that in July I should witness such
+superlatively interesting scenes. With the exception of Elba alone, ours
+has been the very best tour that could have been taken, and exactly at
+the right time, for I apprehend that a month ago we could not have
+passed the country....
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+MAYENCE, _July 22nd_.
+
+Our speed outstrips my pen. I am to retrace our steps to Soissons,
+whereas here we are upon the banks of the Rhine, which is hurrying
+majestically by to terminate its course amongst the dykes of Holland.
+
+The nearer we came to Soissons[79] the nearer we perceived we were to
+the field of some terrible contest, and the suburbs, where the thickest
+of the fight took place, presented a frightful picture of war, not a
+house entire. It seems they were unroofed for the convenience of the
+attacking party, or set on fire, an operation which took up a very short
+space of time, thanks to the energetic labours of about 50 or 60,000
+men. Indeed, fire and sword had done their utmost--burnt beams,
+battered doors, not a vestige of furniture or window frames. I cannot
+give you a better idea of the quantity of shot, and consequent number of
+beings who must have perished, than by assuring you that on one front of
+a house about the extent of our home, and which was not more favoured
+than its neighbours, I counted between 2 and 300 bullet marks. I was
+leaning against a bit of broken wall in a garden, which appeared to be
+the doorway to a sort of cellar, taking a sketch, when the gardener came
+up and gave me some particulars of the fight. He pointed to this cave or
+cellar as the place of shelter in which he and 44 others had been
+concealed, every moment dreading a discovery which, whether by friend or
+foe, they looked upon as equally fatal. Fortunately the foe were the
+discoverers. Upon the termination of the battle, which had been
+favourable to the Allies, in came a parcel of Russians upon the
+trembling peasants. Conceiving it to be a hiding-place for French
+soldiers, they rushed upon them, but finding none, satisfied themselves
+with asking what business they had there, and turning them out to find
+their way through blood and slaughter to some more secure place of
+shelter. A small mill pool had been so completely choked with dead that
+they were obliged to let off the water and clean it out. With Sir
+Charles Stuart's dispatches cut out of the Macclesfield Paper we
+ascended the Cathedral, and from thence, as upon a map, traced out the
+operations of both armies. Soissons is half surrounded by the Aisne,
+and stands on a fine plain, upon which the Russians displayed.
+Buonaparte, in one of his Bulletins, abuses a governor who allowed the
+Allies to take possession of the town when he was in pursuit, thus
+giving them a passage over the river, adding that had that governor done
+his duty the Russians might have been cut off. In England this was all
+voted "leather and prunello" and a mere vapouring opinion of the
+Emperor's, but as far as I could observe he was perfectly right, and had
+the governor been acting under my orders I question much whether I
+should not have hanged him. In looking about we were shewn a sort of
+town hall, with windows ornamented with the most beautiful painted glass
+you ever saw--nice little figures, trophies, landscapes, &c.--but a
+party of Russians had unfortunately been lodged there, and the glass was
+almost all smashed. I procured a specimen, but alas! portmanteaus are
+not the best packing-cases for glass, and in my possession it fared
+little better than with the Cossacks. However, if it is pulverised, I
+will bring it home as a Souvenir....
+
+[Illustration: HOUSES AND TOWER, LAON, 1814.]
+
+_To face p. 161._
+
+From Soissons to Laon the country is uninteresting except from the late
+events. With the exception of the first view of the plain and town of
+Laon, we passed village after village in the same state of ruin and
+dilapidation. Chavignon, about 4 miles from Laon, seemed, however, to
+have been more particularly the object of vengeance; it was throughout
+nearly a repetition of the suburbs of Soissons. Laon rises like a sort
+of Gibraltar from a rich and beautiful plain covered with little woods,
+vineyards, villages, and cornfields; the summit is crowned with an old
+castle, the town with its Cathedral towers and a parcel of windmills.
+Buonaparte had been extremely anxious to dislodge the allies; for two
+days made a furious and almost incessant attack, which was fortunately
+unsuccessful owing, to speak in French terms, to _la petite trahison_,
+in plain English, the bravery of the Russians, who not only withstood
+the repeated shocks, but pursued the enemy all the way to Soissons,
+every little copse and wood becoming a scene of contest, and the whole
+plain was strewed with dead. Since quitting Rouen I do not recollect any
+town at all to be compared with Laon either in point of scenery without
+or picturesque beauty within; it is one of the most curious old places I
+ever saw--Round Towers, Gateways, &c. We took up our quarters at an
+odd-looking Inn, with the nicest people we had met with for some time.
+They spoke with horror of the miseries they had undergone in this Inn,
+not much larger than Cutts' at Wilmslow; they had daily to feed and
+accommodate for upwards of two months 150 Russians of all descriptions,
+and this at a moment when provisions were, of course, extremely dear.
+The landlord's daughter with two friends were imprisoned, actually
+afraid of putting their noses beyond the keyhole; luckily they could
+make artificial flowers, and two of them drew remarkably well; a
+favourite dog of the landlord's was their companion. A Cossack had one
+day taken him by the tail with the firm intent to put him on the kitchen
+fire, the bare recollection of which kindled all our host's anger, and
+he declared that had his poor dog been roasted, though he well knew the
+consequence, he should have shot the Cossack; fortunately the dog
+escaped, but as his Master assured me, never smelt or heard a Cossack's
+name mentioned afterwards without popping his tail between his legs and
+making off with the utmost speed. Both at this place and at Soissons we
+met with people with whom Davenport[80] had lodged, and in both places
+he has established a character which reflects the highest credit on his
+activity, humanity, and generosity. He was no idle spectator; he went
+about endeavouring by every means in his power to alleviate the miseries
+of war by protecting persons and property, and by administering to the
+wants of the sick and wounded of every description....
+
+On the 16th we quitted Laon for Berry au Bac, passing through Corbeny
+and close to the heights of Craon, upon which a battle was fought which
+might be considered as the coup de grâce to the French. The Emperor
+commanded in person; he talked nearly half an hour with the Postmaster,
+whom he summoned before him; if the man spoke truth, his conversation
+appears to have been rather childish. After asking many questions about
+the roads and country, he vented a torrent of abuse against the
+Russians, upon whom he assured the Postmaster it was his intention to
+inflict summary punishment, and, indeed, according to the French
+translation of the business, he actually did so, tho' I never could find
+out that any other of the Imperial troops remained to enjoy the victory
+on these said heights, saving and except the wounded and killed; one
+spot was pointed out where in one grave were deposited the remains of
+3,000....
+
+In this village of Corbeny there had been sad devastation; but it was at
+Berry au Bac that we were to see the superlative degree of misery. This
+unfortunate little town had been captured 7 times--4 times by the
+Russians, 3 times by the French; their bridge, a beautiful work of 3
+arches, only completed in December, was blown up March 19. The houses
+fared no better; whole streets were annihilated--chiefly for the sake of
+burning the beams for fire-wood by the Russians--but the walls were in
+great measure knocked over by the French, for what other purpose than
+wanton cruelty I could not learn. Pillage and violence of every
+description had been excessive. Some of the inhabitants died of pure
+fright; a gentleman-like-looking man assured me his own father was of
+the number. Even here the Cossacks were complimented for their
+comparative good behaviour, while the French and the Emperor were justly
+execrated--"Plait à Dieu" said a poor man who stood moaning over the
+ruins of his cottage, "Plait à Dieu, qu'il soit mort, et qu'on
+n'entendît plus de Napoléon";--the old woman, his wife, told me they
+only feared the Cossacks when they were drunk. An old Cossack had taken
+up his quarters with them--"Ah c'était un bon Viellard; un bon Papa."
+
+[Illustration: BERRY AU BAC.
+
+_To face p. 164._]
+
+One day a party of 20 or 30 drunken Cossacks broke into their yard, and
+insisted on entering the house; the old woman said she had nothing to
+fear and would have opened the door, but the Cossack seized her, saying,
+"There is but one way to save you," and taking her by the arm, shewed
+her to his companions as his prize and threatened the man who should
+touch his property with instant death. They did not dispute the matter
+with him and retired quietly. When they were out of sight he told her to
+follow him, and led her 3 or 4 miles up the country amongst the woods
+and left her in a place of safety, taking a kind leave of her and
+saying, "I have done all I could for you, now farewell"--and she saw no
+more of him....
+
+We arrived at Rheims on the evening of the 16th, a large, fine, regular,
+dull-looking city in a dull-looking plain. The Cathedral is grand
+enough, but I felt no wish to remain till the Coronation. Hitherto we
+had seen inanimate vestiges of war, at Rheims we were to see the living
+effects. By accident we passed the door of a large Church or Hall which
+had been converted into an Hospital for 400 Russian prisoners, and on
+benches near the porch were seated some convalescent patients without
+arms or legs. We stopped to speak to them as well as we could, and upon
+saying we were Englanders, one of the Russians with evident rapture and
+unfeigned delight made signs that there was a British soldier amongst
+their number, and immediately 4 or 5 of them ran to bring him out; and
+such a poor object did appear dragged along, his legs withered away and
+emaciated to the last degree. He had been wounded at St. Jean de Luz in
+the thigh, and subsequently afflicted with a fever which had thus
+deprived him of the use of his limbs. We gave something to those who
+were nearest, and on my asking if any Prussian was there to whom I could
+speak in French, as I wished to express our desire but inability to
+relieve all, I was conducted through the wards to a miserable being who
+was seated with his head suspended in a sling from the top of the bed,
+both legs dreadfully shattered, and unable to support himself upright
+through extreme weakness.
+
+During the whole of supper-time the Hospital and this Englishman hung
+heavy on my mind; I felt as if I had not done enough, and that I might
+be of use in writing to his friends. Accordingly about 10 o'clock I went
+again to the Gate and begged admittance. On mentioning my wish to see
+the Englishman, I was immediately allowed to enter, and conducted up the
+wards. On each side were small beds, clean, and in admirable order;
+there was nothing to interrupt the silence but our own echoing footsteps
+and the groans of the poor patients all round. The Nurses were in the
+costume of Nuns, and from religious principles undertake the care of
+the sick--there was something very awful in marching up the aisles with
+these conductors at this time. My poor countryman was asleep when I came
+to his bedside. I took down memorandums of his case, and promised to
+write to his friends, and left him money to assist him on his road home,
+should he (of which I much doubt) ever recover.
+
+I staid with him some time; in the course of the conversation some
+wounded Prussians came up on their crutches, and it was quite gratifying
+to see their kindness and goodwill to this poor fellow who, sole of his
+nation and kindred, was wasting away amongst strangers. They patted him
+on his head, called him their _cher_ and _bon garçon_, lifted him up
+that he might see and hear better, and he assured me that by them and by
+all the attendants he was treated with the utmost kindness and
+attention. Amongst 400 wounded soldiers whose deep groans and ghastly
+countenances announced that many were almost passing the barrier which
+separates the mortal from the immortal, with their nurses by my side
+holding their glimmering tapers, each arrayed in the order of their
+religion and wearing the Cross as the badge of their profession, was a
+situation in which I had never before been placed. In offering
+ministerial advice, and, I trust, affording religious consolation under
+circumstances so solemn and peculiar, you may conceive that I did speak
+with all the earnestness and fervour in my power. I told the nurses who
+and what I was, and so far from entertaining any illiberal ideas as to
+the propriety of my interfering in what might be called their clerical
+department, they expressed the greatest pleasure and seemed to rejoice
+that their patient was visited by one of his own ministers.... Thus
+ended my visit to the Hospital at Rheims, which I never can forget.
+
+We travelled the next day to Verdun, bidding adieu to the Hibberts at
+Châlons.
+
+You will ask if we have seen any vestiges of war on the soil such as
+bodies. We have met with a tolerable quantity of dead horses by the
+road-side and in ditches, but only one human being, half scratched up by
+a dog, has appeared; a few rags of uniform dangling upon the skeleton
+bones called our attention to it.
+
+Verdun is a very comfortable town of considerable extent decently
+fortified; the number of English there was from 1,000 to 1,100; they
+were all sent off in a hurry. At 5 in the evening they received the
+order, at 7 the next morning the greater part were off, and 24 hours
+afterward the Allies hovered round the town. The French boast, and
+nobody can contradict the assertion, that the Allies were never able to
+take their fortresses; certainly not; for they never attempted. Instead
+of losing their time in besieging, they left a few to mark the place and
+went on.... The English prisoners seem to have enjoyed every comfort
+they could expect--in fact, their imprisonment was in great measure
+nominal; with little difficulty they were allowed to go as far as they
+wished; they were noticed by the inhabitants, and many have married and
+settled in France. I think the prisoners in England have not been so
+well off, and complain with reason.
+
+[Illustration: VERDUN BRIDGE.
+
+_To face p. 168._]
+
+We went to the English church and Theatre, and saw as much as we could
+for half a day. For the honor of my country I lament to say that many
+here contracted heavy debts which are not likely to be paid. Some
+instances were mentioned, the truth of which were proved by letters I
+read from the parties themselves, little creditable to our national
+character, and by persons, too, who ought to have known better. On the
+18th we left Verdun for Metz. I had always winked at and generally
+encouraged the addition of another passenger behind our Cabriolet. The
+road was quite crowded with straggling soldiers going or returning to
+their several homes or regiments. We rarely passed in a day less than 2
+or 300, and really sometimes in situations so very favorable to robbing
+that I am surprised we were never attacked, their appearance being
+generally stamped with a character perfectly congenial to the Banditti
+Trade--dark, whiskered, sunburnt visages, with ragged uniform and naked
+feet. Sometimes we were more fortunate than at others; for instance,
+stragglers from the Hamburg garrison, whose wan faces bore testimony to
+the fact they related of having lived for the last 4 or 5 months on
+horseflesh; but our charitable assistance was to be this day most
+abundantly rewarded. We overtook a poor fellow, more wretched than most
+we had seen, toiling away with his bivouacking cloak tied round him. He,
+too, solicited, and misunderstanding my answer, said in the most
+pitiable but submissive tone, "Alors, Monsieur ne permettra pas que je
+monte?" "Tout au contraire," said I, "Montez tout de suite." After
+proceeding a little way I thought I might as well see who we had got
+behind us, and guess my astonishment when I received the answer. Who do
+you imagine, of all the people in the world, Buonaparte had raked forth
+to secure the Imperial Diadem upon his brow, to fight his battles, and
+deal in blood, but--A monk of La Trappe. For three years had he resided
+in Silence and solitude in this most severe society when Buonaparte
+suppressed it, and insisted that all the Noviciate Monks in No. 36
+should sally forth and henceforth wield both their swords and their
+tongues; with lingering steps and slow our poor companion went. In the
+battle of Lutzen[81] he fought and conquered. In Leipsic[82] he fought
+and fell--the _wind_ of a shot tore his eye out and struck him down, and
+the shot killed his next neighbour upon the spot; he was taken prisoner
+by the Swedes, and was now returning from Stockholm to his brethren near
+Fribourg. The simplicity with which he told his tale bore ample
+testimony to the Truth, but in addition he shewed me his Rosary and
+credentials. After having talked over the battle I changed the subject,
+and determined to see if he could wield the sword of controversy as
+well as of war; and accordingly telling him who I was, asked his opinion
+of the Protestant Faith and the chief points of difference between us.
+He hesitated a little at first: "Attendez, Monsieur, il faut que je
+pense un peu." In about a minute he tapped at the carriage. "Eh bien,
+Monsieur, j'ai pensé," and then entered upon the subject, which he
+discussed with much good sense and ability, sometimes in Latin,
+sometimes in French; and though he supported his argument well and
+manfully, he displayed a liberality of sentiment and a spirit of true
+Christianity which quite attached me to him. I asked him his opinion of
+the _salvability_ of protestants and infallibility of Catholics.
+"Ecoutez moi," was his reply. "Je pense que ceux qui savent que la
+Religion Catholique est la vraie Religion et ne la pratiquent pas,
+seront damnés, mais pour ceux qui ne pensent pas comme nous. Oh non,
+Señor, ne le croyez pas. Oh mon Dieu! non, non! jamais, jamais!" "Are
+you _quite sure_ a minister ought not to marry? You will recollect St.
+Peter was a married man." "Oh que, oui, c'est vrai, mais le moment qu'il
+suivit notre Seigneur on n'entend plus de sa femme." From this we
+proceeded to various other topics, amongst others to the propriety of
+renouncing a religion in which we conceived there were erroneous
+opinions. "Señor, écoutez," said he, "can that religion be good which
+springs from a bad principle? Les Anglois étaient une fois des bons
+Catholiques; le Divorce d'un Roi capricieux fut la cause de leur
+changement. Ah, cela n'était pas bon." ...
+
+When we were on the point of parting he turned to me: "Señor, j'espère
+que je ne vous ai pas faché, si je me suis exprimé trop fortement devant
+vous qui m'avez tant rendu service, il faut me pardonner, je suis pauvre
+et malheureux, mais je pensois que c'était mon devoir."
+
+It was as lucky a meeting for him as for me. I assisted him with money
+to expedite him homewards, and he entertained and interested me all the
+way to Metz, when, much against my will, we parted, for had he been
+going to Pekin I should have accommodated him with a seat....
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+COLOGNE, _July 25th_.
+
+If you could see what I now see, or form any ideas adequate to the
+scenery around me, you would indeed prize a letter which, though
+commenced at 4 in the morning, cannot be valued at a less price than 2
+or 3 old Castles; but it is not yet the moment to sing the praises of
+the Rhine. I shall only say that we slept at Bacharach, and that I am
+now looking at 4 old Castles whenever I raise my eyes from the paper,
+and that a fine old Abbey is only eclipsed by the gable end of a Church,
+equally curious, which is almost thrusting itself into the window as if
+to look at the strangers.
+
+Little enlivened our day after parting with our Monk, unless I should
+except a good scene from a picture which happened at one of the Post
+houses. No Postillions were at home, so the Landlord himself was to
+drive--an enormous man, rather infirm, with a night-cap on his head,
+from whence emerged a long pigtail. It was necessary he should be put
+into his Jack boots. By Jack boots you are to understand two large
+things as big as portmanteaus, always reminding me of boots fit for the
+leg which appears in the Castle of Otranto. Accordingly no less than 4
+or 5 persons actually lifted the Landlord into his boots, an operation
+which, from the weight and infirmities of the one and the extreme
+clumsiness of the others, took up nearly a quarter of an hour; and, of
+course, when fairly deposited in them he was unable to move, and further
+help was necessary to place him on the saddle.... The first view of
+Metz, after traversing an uninteresting country, is remarkably fine. It
+stands in a fine rich plain, near though beyond the reach of an
+eminence--for it does not deserve the name of a mountain--the sides of
+which are covered with woods, villages, and vineyards. There is
+something very grand in entering a fortified Town--the clattering of
+drawbridges, appearance of moats, guns, sentinels, and all the other
+etceteras of war. Our passports were demanded for the first time. At
+length we were allowed to pass, and found ourselves in a large, clean
+town, chiefly remarkable for its Cathedral, the painted window of which
+was equal to any I ever saw. The first thing we invariably do in these
+towns is to ascend the highest spire, from whence the general plan and
+position are at once explained. You need not be alarmed. There is no
+fever at present at Metz, or on the Rhine; but there has been. From the
+close of 1813 and until the last two months not less than 69,000 sick or
+wounded have been in the hospitals of Metz--a large Church contained
+about 3,000 at a time, the remainder were scattered about wherever they
+could find room, and many breathed their last in the streets. Of course,
+such a concourse of dead and dying infested the air to a certain degree,
+and a fever was the result. However, not above 2 or 300 inhabitants
+suffered. Of the sick troops from 12 to 1,500 per day were buried
+without the town, and quicklime thrown in. We supped with three or four
+Frenchmen and a Genoese officer, one of Buonaparte's Imperial _Elites_
+of the Guard. His form and countenance were quite Vandyck--I never
+looked upon a face so well calculated for a picture; his dark whiskers
+and black curling hair composed an admirable frame for a couple of the
+most expressive eyes; his manners were extremely gentleman-like, and you
+may conceive I did not talk and look at him with any diminution of
+interest when I found he was on his way home from Moscow. He had gone
+through the whole of the retreat, had almost reached the boundaries of
+Poland, when at Calick he was wounded, taken prisoner, and marched back
+to Moscow. His description of the miseries of that horrible retreat was
+petrifying--when a horse fell it was instantly surrounded by famished
+Frenchmen, who devoured the carcase; not merely those who slept were
+frozen, but even sentries upon their posts. Yet with all this he imputed
+no blame to Buonaparte. The Russians, he said, had reason to thank the
+severity of their climate, without which they must have been completely
+conquered. I will say this, indeed, that the Russians themselves seem to
+consider their own efforts as rather secondary to the weather. Besides
+this officer we had a Citizen of Metz, a young officer of the
+Polytechnique School who had fought at Montmartre, and a youth who was
+silent; the other 3, however, made ample amends, talking incessantly,
+and all equally vehement in praise of Buonaparte. The officer blessed
+his stars that he had enough to live upon, and that he was now quitting
+a service which, having lost its brightest ornament, was no longer
+interesting or supportable. The young Polytechnique was equally violent,
+with less of the gentleman to soften it down. He, too, was disgusted,
+and had retired for the same reason (these Frenchmen are sad liars after
+all). Of course, as he had been engaged with his school companions I
+thought I could not have a better opportunity of ascertaining the number
+killed at Montmartre, as it was invariably circulated and believed at
+Paris that this defence was noble to a degree and that the greater part
+perished by their guns. You will recollect that the Polytechnique cadets
+I met on the heights of Montmartre said the same, and yet the youth
+asserted that they had not lost a single individual, that only 30 were
+wounded, whereas they knocked over the Russians in countless
+multitudes.[83] The Citizen took the best ground for his Panegyric. He
+referred us to the roads, the public buildings, the national
+improvements which France had gained under the dynasty of Napoleon; and
+when I hinted the intolerable weight of the taxes (being 1/5 on all
+rents and property) he made light of them, assuring me that Frenchmen
+had quite enough left for the comforts of life. When they all filled
+their glasses to drink to the health of their hero I turned to the
+Genoese officer and begged first to drink to the restoration of Genoa to
+that independence of which Napoleon had in great measure deprived her,
+adding that her present degradation was a cruel contrast to the
+dignified station she once held in Europe. His national superseded his
+Imperial feelings, and he drank my toast with great good humour and
+satisfaction; nor did he think it necessary in return to press me to
+drink success to the Emperor, though the Citizen on my refusal, half in
+joke, half in earnest, said he wished I might be ill off for the rest of
+my journey.
+
+My good fortune has not quitted me, however. The next morning on getting
+into the Diligence we found only one passenger--Major Kleist, nephew to
+the celebrated Prussian General and to General Tousein--a Russian
+equally famous here though not so well known in England. His appearance
+was much in his favor; he talked a great deal; had commanded a regiment
+of the Russian Imperial Elites of the Guard (in which he still was) at
+the battle of Leipsic and throughout the campaign; been engaged in every
+action from the Borodino to the capture of Paris; wounded two or three
+times; fought a French Officer in the Bois de Boulogne, and got his
+finger cut abominably; visited London and Portsmouth with his Emperor,
+dined with the Regent, &c. He told me many interesting anecdotes and
+particulars, although, from a certain random way of speaking and the
+loose, unconnected manner in which his words dropped from him, I could
+not place implicit confidence in what he said, nor vouch for the
+accuracy of his accounts. He said decidedly that Alexander had visited
+the Princess of Wales in London incog.; he mentioned an anecdote which I
+cannot quite believe, because had it occurred in Paris we must have
+heard of it. One day when Eugène Beauharnais was with Louis XVIII.
+Marmont came in. Eugène, on seeing him, turned to the King, said, "Sire,
+here is a Traitor; do not trust in him; he has betrayed one master, he
+may betray you."
+
+Marmont, of course, challenged him; they fought the next day and Marmont
+was wounded in the arm. He spoke highly of the King of Prussia as a
+military, unassuming, amiable, sensible man, and that he _does_ visit
+the tomb of his wife.[84] Alexander, he said, was fond of diplomacy, an
+amiable man, very brave, but not much of a general. I asked him what he
+thought of the Duchess of Oldenburg. When I said she had excellent sense
+and great information, he simply replied, "Oui, et peut-être un pen
+trop." Of Constantine[85] he spoke with indignation, and his whiskers
+vibrated as he described his detestable character--debauched, depraved,
+cruel, dishonest, and a coward. Constantine was abusing a Colonel in
+very gross tones, a short time ago, for misconduct and incompetency in
+battle. "Indeed!" said the officer; "you must have been misinformed;
+this cannot arise from your own observation, as I do not recollect
+having ever seen you near me upon these occasions."
+
+No wonder the Russians were moderate towards the inhabitants during the
+campaign--their discipline was severe enough. Our friend the Major
+caught 7 Cossacks plundering a cottage; he had them all tied up and
+knouted them to death by the moderate infliction of 1,000 blows each. In
+truth he seemed to hold the lives of these gentlemen, including the
+Calmucs, rather cheap. "Pour moi," said he, "Je considere un Cossac, un
+Calmuc et un Moineau à peu près comme la même chose."
+
+At St. Avold we again fell in with a regiment of Russians, or rather
+detachments from many regiments. Whoever they were they did not appear
+to be in high favour with the Major. "Our army," said he, "is divided
+into three classes--the first we can trust for discipline and ability;
+the second consists of Cossacks and other irregulars, whose business is
+reconnoitring, plundering, and running away when they see the Enemy; the
+men before you compose the third--fellows who know nothing and do
+nothing, but can stand quietly in the place assigned them and get killed
+one after another without ever thinking of turning their backs"; and
+their appearance was very like their character--patient, heavy,
+slumbering, hard-featured countenance; sitting or standing without any
+appearance of animation.
+
+At St. Avold we began to lose the French language, and from this my
+fluency was reduced to signs, or at most to a very laconic speech--"Ich
+Englander, Ich woll haben Brod mitt Café," &c. At Dendrich, a little
+village near Forbach, we crossed the new line of demarcation between
+France and Austria, and found the towns chiefly occupied by Bavarians.
+Unless I am much mistaken, this country will soon be a bone of
+contention; the people (as far as I can judge in three days) are
+dissatisfied, and the leaders of France look with a jealous eye on the
+encroachment, and an imaginary line of separation will not easily be
+respected. Here I saw what is meant by a German forest--as far as the
+eye could reach all was wood. Austria may, if she pleases, by her new
+accession of territory become charcoal vendor to the whole world. The
+road is excellent, carried on in a fine, broad, straight line. Till
+Buonaparte spoke the word, there was no regular communication between
+Metz and Mayence, now there is not a more noble road for travelling. We
+were now in the Hock country; in the Villages we bought what I should
+have called wine of the same sort for 6d. a bottle....
+
+On Thursday, the 21st, we entered Mayence, over and through similar
+drawbridges, bastions, hornworks, counterscarps as at Metz; here we met
+a curious assemblage. By the first Gate were stationed a guard of
+Prussians with the British Lions on their caps, John Bull having
+supplied some Prussian Regiments with Uniforms. At the next gate a band
+of white Austrians, with their caps shaded with boughs of Acacia (you
+will remember that their custom of wearing green boughs in their Hats
+was interpreted by the French into a premeditated insult). These, with
+Saxons in red, Bavarians in light blue, and Russians in green, made out
+the remainder of the motley crew. We found an excellent Inn, and dined
+at a Table d'Hôte with about 30 people. The striking contrast we already
+perceived between the French and Austrians was very amusing, the former
+all bustle and loquacity with dark hair, the latter grave and sedate
+with light hair; the Inns, accommodation, eating, &c., much cleaner; a
+band played to us during dinner, and I was pleased to see the Austrian
+moustachios recede with a smile of satisfaction as they listened to the
+"Chasse de Henri Quatre."
+
+There is little to be seen in the town. I found a most intelligent
+bookseller, and was tantalised with the number of fine Engravings, &c.,
+I might have purchased for a trifle....
+
+I have heard a curious political report repeated here, which is current
+all over the Continent--that Austria has sold the Netherlands and
+Brabant to England; the report gains credit probably because the towns
+in that part of the country are still garrisoned with British troops.
+Poor England is certainly not much beloved; we are admired, feared,
+respected, and courted; but these people will have, and perhaps with
+some reason, that upon all occasions our own Interest is the sole object
+of consideration; that our Treaties have the good of ourselves and not
+the peace of Europe at heart; and so far they carry this opinion, that I
+was very near getting into a quarrel with a fat man in the Diligence who
+spoke it as a common idea that we fought with our money and not with our
+blood, for that we were too rich to risk our lives, and had there been a
+bridge that Napoleon would have been in London long ago. I told him he
+knew nothing at all about the matter (to which, by the bye, he
+afterwards virtually assented), and as a Frenchman's choler does not
+last long, we were good friends the rest of the journey, and he
+apologised for his behaviour, saying, it was a failing of his--"de
+s'échauffer bientôt." Upon one point we agreed, too, in politics, viz.,
+being Anti-Napoleonites.
+
+Now for the Rhine. At 10 o'clock on Friday, July 22nd, in a little
+rotten, picturesque-looking boat and two men (preferring a private
+conveyance to the public passage boats for the convenience of stopping
+at pleasure) we left Mayence; the river here is about half a mile
+across, traversable by a bridge of boats. The Maine falls into it just
+above the town, and there appears nothing on the Frankfort or Strasburgh
+side to interest a traveller's eye, the country being flat vine or corn
+land. The Stream runs with a steady rapidity of about three and a half
+or 4 miles an hour, so that in a boat, with the addition of oars, you
+may proceed at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. The distance to
+Cologne is about 120 miles. On the bank of the River we saw some of
+those immense floats preparing which are composed of timbers for the
+Holland markets. We glided with an imperceptible motion down the stream,
+expecting as we proceeded to behold the magnificent ruins of which we
+had heard so much. But, alas! village succeeded village, town followed
+town, and yet not a single turret made its appearance. We sat with our
+sketch books in battle array, but our pencils were asleep; we began to
+regret the uninteresting, even country we had passed from Metz to
+Mayence, and the time which might be called lost in coming so far for so
+useless a purpose, and to make vow after vow that we would never in
+future believe the account given by others respecting people and places.
+By this time our appetites began to grow keen, luckily, just at the time
+when our spirits began to flag, and, accordingly, we went on shore at
+Rudesheim, famous for its excellent hock, and having dispatched a dinner
+and bottle of hock we ventured forth to explore, and, luckily, fell in
+with a little Gothic round tower, which, with the dinner, rather raised
+our spirits and enabled us to proceed 4 or 5 miles further to Bingen
+when we turned a Corner....
+
+I verily believe such another corner does not exist in the world. From
+the corner of Bingen must be dated the beauties of the Rhine, and from
+the corner of Bingen I commence my next letter; suffice it now to say
+that the moment we turned the Corner we both, with one impulse, called
+out, "Oh!" and sat in the boat with our hands uplifted in speechless
+astonishment....
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+AIX LA CHAPELLE, _July 27, 1814_.
+
+I left you turning the corner of Bingen, now let me describe what there
+presented itself. On the left a beautiful picturesque town, with tower
+and picturesque-looking steeples placed each exactly on the spot an
+artist would have selected, with hills and woods on each side and a
+bridge running over a small river which emptied itself in the Rhine.
+Immediately before us, on a small islet, stood the Tower of Mausthurm,
+or the Mouse turret, so called from a tradition that a Baron once locked
+up a number of his Vassals in a tower and then set fire to it and
+consumed it and its inhabitants, in consequence of which certain mice
+haunted him by day and by night to such a degree that he fled his
+Country and built this solitary Tower on its island. But all this would
+not do. The Mice pursued him to his Island, and the tale ends in his
+being devoured by them there.
+
+On both sides the river hills covered with vines and woods rose
+abruptly, and on the right, tottering on a pinnacle that frowns over the
+flood, stood the Castle of Ehrenfels....
+
+It would be quite impossible, and indeed unnecessary (as my sketch-book
+can best unfold the tale), to describe all we saw. For above 100 miles,
+with little interruption, the same scenery presented itself, attaining
+its superlative point of grandeur in the neighbourhood of Lorich and
+Bacharach. It might be called a perfect Louvre of old Castles, each
+being a chef d'œuvre of its species. I could almost doubt the
+interference of a human hand in their creation. Placed upon elevated and
+apparently impossible crags, they look more like the fortresses of the
+Giants when they warred against the Gods than any thing else. But the
+Castles were not the only points of attraction. Every mile presented a
+village as interesting as the battlements which threatened to crush
+them to death from above. Each vied with its neighbour in picturesque
+beauty, and the people as well as the buildings in these remote nooks
+and corners partook of the wild character of the scenery. A shower of
+rain and close of the day induced us to make Bacharach our
+sleeping-place. The Landlord, with his night-cap on his head and pipe in
+his mouth, expressed no surprise at our appearance. The coffee and the
+milk and the hock came in due season when he had nodded acquiescence to
+my demand, and he puffed away with as much indifference as if two
+strange Englishmen had not been in his house. We found good clean beds,
+and should have slept very well but for the deep-toned Bell of the
+Church within a few yards of us, which tolled the time of night every
+half-hour, and for a watchman who, by way of murdering the little sleep
+which had survived the sound of the Bell, sounded with all his might a
+cow-horn, and then, as if perfectly satisfied that he had awaked every
+soul in the village, bawled out the hour and retired, leaving them just
+time to fall asleep again before the half-hour called for a repetition
+of his exertions.
+
+Every evening about dusk, in our course down the river, a curious
+Phenomenon presented itself which to me, as an Entomologist, had
+peculiar charms. We were surrounded as far as the eye could reach with
+what appeared to be a fall of snow, but which, in fact, was a cloud of
+beautiful white Ephemera just emerged from their Chrysalis state to
+flutter away in their perfection for one or two hours before their
+death. I mention this circumstance now, whilst it is fresh in my memory,
+for I really should hesitate in relating it before company for fear of
+being accused of traveller's stories. I had heard of them before, and
+was therefore not so much surprised, though the infinite number was
+truly astonishing.
+
+On Saturday, 23rd, we dined and spent an hour or two in Coblentz, which,
+situated at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, is strongly
+fortified towards the land. There is little worth notice in the town
+except a Stone fountain erected by Napoleon, from the pipes of which run
+the united streams of the two rivers. Upon these are carved in large
+letters the two following inscriptions, the one immediately below the
+other in characters precisely similar:--
+
+           A.N. MDCCCXII.
+     Mémorable par la Campagne
+         Contre les Russes
+  Sous la Préfecture de Jules Dragon.
+
+     *       *       *       *       *
+
+      Vu et approuvé par nous
+ Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz
+       Le Ier. Janvier 1814.
+
+At Coblentz as well as at Cologne the Rhine is passed by a flying
+bridge--_i.e._, a large boat moored to several other smaller ones, whose
+only use is to keep the large one steady. It swings from bank to bank,
+according as the mooring line is placed on one side or the other, merely
+by the action of the current producing a sort of compound motion.
+Coblentz is completely commanded by the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, a
+rock as high as Dover, the summit and side covered with the ruins of the
+fortress which the French blew up. The people in this country are pretty
+well satisfied with the change of affairs. They led a life of
+unsupportable tyranny under the rod of Napoleon. The river was crowded
+with custom house officers. Not a man could pass without being
+personally searched for Coffee and sugar in every part of his dress. All
+they lament now is the uncertainty of their fate. Many expressed a hope
+that the report of their being sold to England might be true. All they
+want is certainty, and then their commerce will revive. As it is,
+nothing can be more uninteresting in a commercial point of view than
+this noble river. We did not see above a dozen Merchants' barks in the
+course of 120 miles, and yet they say trade is tenfold greater than when
+Napoleon governed. Below Coblentz we passed some of the Châteaux of the
+German Princes, which are generally large, uncomfortable-looking houses,
+fitted up, as far as external examination allowed us to judge, without
+taste. The river became rather dull, but at Andernach, where we slept,
+it began to improve and to promise better for the next morning, and for
+some miles we were not disappointed.
+
+We were under the necessity of travelling on the Sunday, which in our
+situation I certainly held to be no crime. What I could do I did in
+inducing our Boatmen to attend their Mass. Religion, which appears to be
+nearly extinct in France, is by no means so in Germany. We find the
+churches all well attended and plentifully scattered over the whole
+country. In the course of the morning we passed a large Chapel dedicated
+to St. Apollonius, and noted for its Miracles, all of which were
+recorded by our Boatmen with the air of implicit reverence and belief.
+It happened to be the festival of the Saint, and from a distance of 10
+or 20 miles even the road was crowded with persons going or coming to
+their favourite shrine. You will recollect what Mme. de Staël says of
+the Germans' taste for religious music. Of this we had a specimen
+to-day. As we passed the height upon which the Chapel stood a boat
+containing 40 or 50 people put off from the shore and preceded us for
+several miles chaunting almost the whole way hymns and psalms. In the
+Evening, soon after leaving Bonn, we came up with another containing
+about 120, who every quarter of an hour delighted us with the same
+strains. They glided with the stream, and gave us time to row alongside,
+and we continued in their company the remainder of the day.
+
+Could I have heard and not have seen all would have been perfect, but
+the charm was almost broken by the heterogeneous mixture of piety and
+indifference, outward practice and inward negligence. Some were telling
+their beads and chattering Pater Nosters, some were at one moment on
+their knees, in the next quarrelling with their neighbour; but, after
+all, the general effect was so solemn and imposing that I was willing to
+spare my criticisms, and give them credit for perhaps more than they
+deserved. Conceive such a concourse of persons, on one of the finest
+Evenings imaginable, floating silently with the stream, and then at a
+signal given bursting forth into songs of praise to God--all perfect in
+their respective parts, now loud, now low, the softer tones of the women
+at one time singing alone. If the value of a Sabbath depends on the
+religious feelings excited, I may safely say I have passed few so
+valuable. They had no Priest amongst them, the hymns were the
+spontaneous flow of the moment. Whenever one began the rest were sure to
+follow.
+
+When upon the subject of music I must be the advocate of Mme. de Staël.
+She has been accused of falsehood in stating that in the Cottages in
+Germany a Piano Forte was a necessary piece of furniture. I cannot from
+my own knowledge go quite so far, but from my short experience of German
+manners I may safely say there is no nation in which Music is so
+popular. We have heard the notes of pianos and harpsichords issuing from
+holes and corners where they might least be expected, and as for flutes
+and other instruments, there is scarcely a village in which, in the
+course of an hour, you will not hear a dozen.
+
+At Cologne we were lodged at a French Inn kept by the landlord and his
+wife alone--no waiters, no other attendance--and yet the house was
+spacious, clean, and excellent. I never met with more attention and wish
+to accommodate, and not only in the house; the exertions of our host
+were exerted still further in our behalf. He introduced us to a Club
+chiefly composed of French Germans, who were as hospitably inclined as
+himself. One gentleman invited us to his house, would give us some
+excellent hock, introduced us to his family, amongst the rest a little
+fellow with a sabre by his side, with curling locks and countenance and
+manner interesting as Owen's. Hearing I was fond of pictures and painted
+glass, he carried me to a fine old Connoisseur, his father-in-law, whose
+fears and temper were a good deal roused by the "peste," as he termed
+it, of still having half a dozen Cossacks in his house. However, they
+were officers, and by his own account did him no harm whatever; but for
+fear of accidents he had unpanelled his great dining-room. Our friend
+had a large and excellent house, in a style very unlike and far more
+magnificent than is usually met with in England. In return for his
+civility I was delighted to have it in my power to give him a few ounces
+of our Pecco Tea which remained of our original stock. Travelling in
+Germany is certainly neither luxurious nor rapid; the custom of hiring
+a carriage for a certain distance and taking post horses does not extend
+here, and you are therefore reduced to the following dilemma, either
+taking a Carriage and the same horses for your journey or the "Post
+Waggon," or Diligence, which is of the two rather more rapid. Of two
+evils we preferred the last, and at half-past 8 this morning were landed
+at Aix la Chapelle, having performed the journey of 45 miles in 12 and a
+half hours shaken to death, choked with dust, and poisoned with tobacco,
+for here a great hooked pipe is as necessary an appendage to the mouth
+as the tongue itself. Under the circumstances above mentioned, with the
+Thermometer at about 98 into the bargain, you may conceive we were
+heartily glad to run from the coach office to the Baths as instinctively
+as young ducks. On looking over the list of persons visiting the place,
+we were delighted to find the names of Lord and Lady Glenbervie[86] and
+Mr. North.[87] Accordingly, having first ascended the highest steeple in
+the town, and been more disgusted than in any place I have seen since
+Spain, with virgins and dolls in beads and muslins, and pomatum and
+relics of saints' beards, and napkins from our Saviour's tomb, and
+mummeries quite disgraceful, we went to call upon them....
+
+We find this, like every other town and village, swarming with Prussian
+troops. General Kleist commands, and has no less an army than 170,000.
+This seems very like a determination of the King of Prussia not to give
+up the slice he has gained in the grand continental scramble. Every
+uniform we saw was of British manufacture. An officer told me we had
+furnished sufficient for 70,000 Infantry and 20,000 Cavalry.
+
+There is little to be seen in this place. The country about reminded me
+most of England; for the first time on the continent we saw hedges and
+trees of tolerable size growing amongst them. We were directed above all
+other things to pay our respects to the great gambling table. It is,
+indeed, one of the Lions of the Town; the room is splendid in size, and
+everybody goes to see it. It is open 3 times a day for about 2 or 3
+hours each time. About 50 or 60 people were winning or losing round a
+large table at a game apparently something like vingt un; not a word was
+said, but money was shovelled to the right and left very plentifully....
+I forgot to mention that near Linz on the Rhine we passed a headland
+fronted and inlaid with as fine a range of Basaltic columns as the
+Giant's Causeway, some bent, some leaning, some upright. They are
+plentiful throughout that part of the country, and are remarkably
+regular; all the stone posts are formed of them, and even here I still
+see them....
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH DILIGENCE.]
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+BRUXELLES, _29th_.
+
+After a night and greater part of two days passed in a species of oven
+called a French Diligence, with Réaumur Thermometer at 23--hotter, you
+will observe, than is necessary to hatch silkworms, and very nearly
+sufficient to annihilate your unfortunate brother and husband--did we
+arrive at Bruxelles.... I must give you a few details that you may fully
+understand the extent of our misery. We arrived at Liège all well, with
+only two other passengers; conceive our sorrow when on re-entering the
+Diligence after dinner we found besides ourselves and a lady the places
+occupied by a Dutch officer, who sat gasping without his coat, and so
+far exhausted by the heat, though he had been ten years in Batavia, that
+his pipe hung dangling as if he had not breath sufficient to keep its
+vestal fire alive, and a lady with two children besides living
+intruders. A net from the top was filled with bags, baskets, and
+band-boxes. Our night was sad indeed, and the groans of our
+fellow-travellers and the ineffectual fluttering of a fan which the
+Officer used proved how little they were satisfied with the order of
+things. The children were crammed with a succession of French Plums,
+almonds, garlicked mutton, liqueurs, and hock, all of which ingredients
+the kind mother endeavoured to cement on their Stomachs by Basons of
+milk at sunrise, but no sooner had a few additional jolts brought these
+bons-bons into close contact than the windows were occupied the rest of
+the journey by the stretched-out heads of the poor children.
+
+The heat has been more excessive for the last 4 or 5 days than has been
+experienced for many years in this country; and, in short, when _I_
+think it worth while to mention heat as the cause of real inconvenience,
+you may consider it such as would have thrown you into a fever. Enough
+of our personal sufferings, which you may easily conceive have been few
+indeed if the above is worth recording....
+
+I left Aix la Chapelle with no great regret. The Country round it is
+pretty, much resembling Kent, but as a town or watering-place it has
+nothing to recommend but its gambling-table. I expected to have found a
+museum of human nature and national character.--Tables d'hôtes crowded
+with the best bred of all countries, but just the reverse. There were
+Tables d'hôte's at the minor Inns tolerably frequented, but none at the
+most fashionable; there the guests lived by themselves. There is no
+point of rendezvous, no promenade, no Assembly room, where the
+concentrated world may be seen. Like Swedenborgh's theory of living in
+the midst of invisible spirits, so at Aix la Chapelle (unless time and
+opportunity may have thrown him into private circles) a traveller may be
+surrounded by Princes and Potentates without knowing or benefiting by
+their illustrious presence; the Glenbervies made the same complaint.
+From Aix to Liège we had the company of a very pleasant, well-informed
+citizen of Liège (indeed, all the military classes in Germany seem well
+informed), who in pathetic terms lamented his lot. In the cutting up of
+this grand continental dish Prussia has had Benjamin's mess in this part
+of the country. We have his troops, with few exceptions, forming a
+cordon within the Rhine from Saarbruck to Liège, and they are by no
+means popular. We have clothed them, and all the people feed them,
+besides having been called upon for contributions. It is flattering to
+see the high respect shown to the British character, which increases as
+opportunities occur of observing its effects. If we were like the people
+of Bruxelles (said our Liègeois) all would be well; we should rejoice in
+having a garrison. British troops, so far from exacting contributions or
+demanding free quarters, pay for everything, are beloved by the people,
+and money circulates, whereas under the Prussian government we pay all,
+are put to all manner of inconvenience, and receive neither thanks nor
+satisfaction. They appear to have been peculiarly unfortunate in all
+wars. Poor Liège has received a thump from one, a kick from another, and
+been robbed by a third. The Austrians have burnt their Suburbs, the
+Republicans sold their national and ecclesiastical Estates, and lately
+they have had the pleasure of being pillaged by French Marshals and
+satisfying the voracious appetite of the Crown Prince, who put them to
+an expense of 150,000 frs. in providing his table for 7 weeks, and when
+they hinted that they thought it but fair their Royal visitor should pay
+for his own dinners, he departed, leaving his bills unpaid. He seems to
+have been secreting himself here like a Cat in a barn watching the
+motions of the mice, acting solely from interested motives, and ready to
+pounce upon whatever might be safely turned to his own advantage. When
+the French retreated out of Holland the Duke of Tarentum[88] did the
+poor people at Liège the honour of making their town a point in the line
+of his march. He stopped one night, and because the inhabitants did not
+illuminate and express great joy at his illustrious presence he demanded
+an immediate contribution of 300,000 frs., 150,000 of which were paid
+the next morning. Luckily the Allies appeared towards Noon, and I hope
+his Grace will not get the remainder.
+
+In the character of almost all these French military leaders there are
+such blots and stains that one sickens at the thought of being of the
+same species. It would be endless to recount the acts of rapacity
+committed by all these engines of Imperial France; conscious that their
+throne might one day fall, they lost no time in amassing wealth, and
+pillage was the watchword from the Cathedral to the Cottage. Lisle is in
+the hands of the French, and by their own account the people have
+suffered every species of misery, yet they are strong for Napoleon,
+Garrison and Citizen, and I cannot find that they ever vented their
+feelings in any other way than in nicknaming their General Maison[89] (a
+cruel Tyrant who destroyed all their suburbs under pretence they might
+be in the way in case of a siege, which might have been done in a day
+had the Allies ever thought of such a thing); he is in consequence
+called General Brise Maison, and then the foolish people laugh and cry,
+"Que c'est bon cela," think they have done a great feat and submit like
+lambs. The country from Liège to Brussels wears the same Anglicised
+face--hedgerows and trees without any leading features. Bruxelles is a
+nice town--and really it was a gratification in passing the gate to see
+a fat John Bull keeping guard with his red coat. The Garrison consists
+of about 3,000, amongst the rest a regiment of Highlanders whose dress
+is the marvel of the people. A French Lady who came with us from Liège
+had seen some and expressed her utter surprise, and as if she was
+speaking to one who doubted the fact, she repeated, "C'est vrai!
+actuellement rien qu'un petit Jupon--mais comment!" and then she lifted
+her eyes and hands and reiterated, "petit jupon--et comment,"
+concluding, as if she almost doubted the evidence of her own senses, "Je
+les ai vus moi-même."
+
+At Bruxelles at least we expected to see a numerous and genteel Table
+d'hôte, and in this hope took up our quarters at a magnificent Hotel in
+the Place Royale--very fine indeed, and very full of English, much too
+full, for though we saw a few in the passages, or eyed them as they
+peeped out of their doors, and sat down with about 15 or 20 at table,
+"They spoke not, they moved not, they looked not around." By dint of
+asking for salt and mustard, and giving my next neighbour as much
+trouble as I could to show I had a tongue which I should be happy to
+use, we towards the 3rd Act of the Entertainment began to talk, and
+ascended gradually from the meats to the wines (here, it is true, there
+was some prolixity), and then to other subjects pretty well, though the
+burthen of my companion's song was that "the French were all d---- d
+rascals and ought to be well licked." We tried the Play; there we found
+a few English officers and one English lady, few of any other nation,
+not 50 altogether, in a house dismal and dirty. There is a delightful
+sort of wood and promenade called the Park....
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH SHIPS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE LOW COUNTRIES
+
+Dutch arks--Walcheren memories--Earth-covered ships--Cossacks and
+keys--Brother alleys--Bergen op Zoom--Cossack shopping--Goat
+curricles--Treckschuyt travelling--Booksellers' shops.
+
+After Brussels the travellers proceeded to Holland, and saw Antwerp on
+their way. They had now gone beyond the country which Napoleon's
+victories had made famous, and the chief military interest of the
+country through which they passed, just eleven months before Waterloo,
+was derived from two very melancholy events for an Englishman to
+record--the Walcheren Expedition and the storming of Bergen op Zoom.
+
+
+LETTER XII
+
+BERGEN OP ZOOM, _July 31st_.
+
+...On leaving Bruxelles the country immediately loses its character, and
+becomes entirely Dutch, by which we exchange for the better, leaving
+dirty floors, houses, and coaches for as much cleanliness as soap and
+water can produce; I only regret from my experience of last night that
+they should be so much occupied in washing as to forget that drying is
+also a luxury, but there is no such novelty in this country, and so much
+to be seen that I have no time to catch cold. Our Diligence from
+Bruxelles held 10 people inside and 3 in front, and we had all ample
+elbow room; it was large, as you may suppose, as everything else in
+Holland is from top to bottom. Hats, Coats, breeches, pipes, horns,
+cows--are all gigantic, and so are the dogs, and because the poor things
+happen to be so, they harness a parcel of them together and breed them
+up to draw fish-carts. I yesterday met a man driving four-in-hand; in
+turning a corner and meeting three of these open-mouthed Mastiffs
+panting and pulling, you might almost fancy it was Cerberus drawing the
+Chariot of Proserpine--but I am wandering from the Diligence, which
+deserves some description. It resembled a little Theatre more than a
+coach, with front boxes, pit, &c., lined with common velvet. We had a
+curious collection of passengers. Opposite to me sat a prize
+thoroughbred Dutch woman as clean and tidy as she was ugly and
+phlegmatic, with a close-plaited cap, unruffled white shawl, and golden
+cross suspended from her neck. I took a sketch while she stared me in
+the face unconscious of the honor conferred. By her side sat a French
+woman crowned with the lofty towers of an Oldenburg Bonnet. By my side a
+spruce, pretty, Englishwoman, whom I somehow or other suspected had
+been serving with his Britannic Majesty's troops now occupying Belgium.
+She had on her right hand a huge Brabanter who spoke English, and had
+acquired, I have no doubt, a few additional pounds of fat by living in
+London. Edward sat behind me in a line with the Brabanter's wife and a
+Dutch peasant. These, with two or three minor characters, completed our
+cargo, and away we went on the finest road in the world towards Antwerp
+between a triple row of Abeles and poplars, and skirting the bank of a
+fine canal upon which floated a fleet of Kuyp's barks, and by which
+grazed Paul Potter's oxen--the whole road was, in truth, a gallery of
+the Flemish school. By the door of every ale-house a living group from
+Teniers and Ostade, with here and there bits from Berghem and Hobbema,
+&c. Halfway between Bruxelles and Antwerp is Malines. I had began to
+fear that I had lost my powers of observation, and was, therefore, no
+longer struck with the external appearance of the towns--in fact, that
+the novelty was gone, and that my eyes were too much familiarised with
+such objects to notice them. Happily Malines undeceived me, and
+convinced me I was still fully alive to whatever had any real
+peculiarity of character to entitle it to notice. With the exception of
+the villages on the Rhine, all the towns and houses I had seen lately
+had little to recommend them, and were like half the people in the
+world, possessed of no character of their own, their doors and windows
+like all other doors and windows, but Malines had doors and windows of
+its own, and seemed to take a pride in exhibiting its own little queer
+originalities; in every house was a different idea. The people were of a
+piece with their dwellings; I could almost fancy I was permitted to
+inspect the toys of some Brobdignag baby who washed, cleaned, and combed
+the beings before me every morning and locked them up in their separate
+boxes every evening. When the nice green doors of the nice painted
+houses opened, I bethought me of the Dutch ark you bought for Owen, and
+was prepared to make my best bow to Noah and his wife, who I expected to
+step forth with Ham and Japhet, and all the birds and beasts behind
+them.
+
+We approached Antwerp as the sun was setting behind its beautiful
+Cathedral and shining upon the pennants of the fleet which Bonaparte has
+kindly built for the accommodation of the allied powers. The Antwerpers
+had a well-arranged promenade and tea garden, &c., about a mile from the
+house, well wooded. These, with all the houses in the suburbs, the
+French entirely destroyed, leaving not a wreck behind. I must acquit
+them of wanton cruelty here, however, as in sieges these devastations
+are necessary. We passed thro' a complete course of fortifications, and
+then entered what, from all I can perceive, is the best town I have seen
+on the continent.
+
+It is a mass of fine streets, fine houses, and fine churches; the Tower
+of the Cathedral is quite a Bijou 620 steps in height! but the ascent
+was well rewarded; from thence a very respectable tour of about 30 miles
+in every direction may be accomplished. Walcheren and Lillo (the
+celebrated fort which prevented our ascending the Scheld) were visible
+without any difficulty, with Cadsand and all the well-known names of
+that silly expedition,[90] rendered apparently more silly by seeing how
+impossible it would have been to have taken Antwerp unless by a regular
+siege, which might have been of endless duration; we might have
+bombarded the basons in which the men-of-war were deposited, and with
+about as much success as Sir Thos. Graham,[91] who, after expending a
+mint of money in bombs and powders, in the course of two days contrived
+to send about half a dozen shells on board the line of battleships. I
+was on board the _Albania_, which had suffered the most. The extent of
+her damage was two shells which passed thro' the decks, exploding
+without much mischief, and a round-shot which shivered a quarter gallery
+and then fell on the ice--indeed, bombarding vessels, which are objects
+so comparatively small, is something like attempting to shoot wild ducks
+on Radnor Mere by firing over their heads with ball in hopes that in its
+descent it may come in contact with the bird's head.
+
+About a dozen Gun Brigs were sunk, all of which we saw with their masts
+above the water; a few houses near the Bason were shattered, and about
+20 Townsmen killed. The country round Antwerp is quite flat, and
+appears, with the exception of 2 or 3 miles round the town, a perfect
+wood; fancy such a wood with the Scheldt winding through it, several
+roads radiating in lines straight as arrows, with here and there a
+steeple breaking the horizontal line, and you may suppose yourself at
+the top of the Cathedral. The Town is large, with the river washing the
+whole of one side; on the south are the dockyards, with rope walks and
+everything in fine style; the destruction of these might have been
+practicable, as they are rather beyond the line of immediate
+fortifications, but probably they have works for their express
+protection, and the advantage gained must have been in proportion to the
+stores and vessels building. I counted 16 or 17 ships of the line on the
+Stocks, 2 or 3 of 120 Guns. In the Scheldt floated 13 in a state of
+apparent equipment; in the basons 9--all of the line--thus completing a
+fleet of 39 fine Ships, besides a few frigates and Gun Brigs
+innumerable--of these only two were Dutch.
+
+It was curious to see such a fleet, and some of them were actually worn
+out, the utmost extent of whose naval career had been an expedition to
+Flushing. On descending the Spire, we examined the Carillons, which are
+a Gamut of chiming bells of all sizes--the total number for them and
+the Church is 82; by a clock work they play every 7 minutes, so that the
+neighbourhood of the Cathedral is a scene of perpetual harmony; they can
+also be played by hand. Most of the churches in this country have them.
+Our Guards in marching into Alkmaar were surprised and gratified in
+hearing the church bells strike up "God Save the King." There are
+several good churches in the town, and once all were decorated with the
+works of Rubens, which Napoleon carried off. I should, however, be
+perfectly satisfied with a selection from the remainder. I saw a Vandyck
+on the subject of our Saviour recommending the Virgin Mary to St. John,
+which was incomparable; it quite haunts me at this moment, and, however
+horrible the effect of the bleeding figure on the Cross, I do not wish
+to lose the impression. The Dutch have carried the art of carving in
+wood to a most extraordinary pitch of perfection. I am surprised it has
+not been more spoken of; some of their pulpits are really quite
+marvellous. Religion increases and, I think, improves. There is less
+mummery here than at Aix and some other places I have lately seen, with
+the exception of a few little Saviours in powdered wigs and gilt satin
+and muslin frocks, and a very singular figure as large as life, supposed
+to represent the deposition in the holy sepulchre, which was covered by
+a shroud of worsted gauze, studded over with enormous artificial flowers
+and tinsel like a Lady's court dress.
+
+Wherever we went, at whatever hour, Mass was performing to good
+congregations. The women here all dress in long black shawls, or,
+rather, hooded wrappers, which, as they knelt before their confessional
+boxes, were extremely appropriate and solemn. The English have a church
+here for the garrison; it is simplicity itself. They have even removed
+several fine pictures, the rooms having been a sort of museum--the
+Vandyck I alluded to among the rest....
+
+In our morning's tour we, of course, visited the celebrated basons for
+the men-of-war. "Still harping upon these ships," I can fancy you
+exclaiming; "when will he have done with them?" You must bear it
+patiently. It was on account of these said basons, in a great measure,
+that I came to Antwerp, so you must endure their birth, parentage, and
+education.
+
+There are two Basons, one calculated for 16, the other for 30 sail of
+the line; they are simple excavations. Nature never thought of such a
+thing, and gave no helping hand. It was Napoleon's work from first to
+last; the labour and expense must have been enormous. They open by dock
+gates immediately into the Scheldt, from whence each ship can proceed
+armed and fitted cap à pie (if she dares) to fight the English. They
+were begun and finished in two years, but improvements were suggested,
+and there is no knowing what more the Emperor intended to do.
+Precautions had been taken during the bombardment to preserve the
+Ships. For instance, all the decks were propped up by a number of spars,
+by which means if a bomb fell it did no other mischief than forcing its
+way through and carrying all before its immediate course, whereas
+without the props it might have shaken the timbers and weakened the
+access considerably. In every ship also were 2 cartloads of earth, to
+throw over any inflammable substance which might have fallen on board.
+From this mole hill of a truth was engendered a mountainous falsehood
+for home consumption. I read in the English Papers of the time that the
+French had scuttled their ships to the level of the water, and then
+covered them over with earth, which was carefully sodded!! Sir Thos.
+Graham's batteries were very near the basons, half-way between the
+village of Muxham, about 2 miles from the town and the nearest French
+battery. From one of the latter we had a perfect conception of the whole
+business. Without saying a word about my extreme partiality and fears
+for the safety of No. 1, and probable inconvenience which might ensue
+from loss of said No. 1 to Nos. 2, 3 and 4, I wonder much whether my
+curiosity would have allowed me to sleep quite in the back ground. The
+sight must from this point have been superb, as it was the intention to
+throw the bombs over this battery so as to make them fall in the bason
+amongst the ducks. The top of the Cathedral would have been perfection,
+but the Governor most vexatiously kept the keys....
+
+We found abundance of British troops here, remnants of all the regiments
+who had survived the storming of Bergen op Zoom, about 3 or 4,000....
+They have no reason to complain of their quarters, though it is possible
+many of them may be of the same opinion with a soldier of the Guards,
+who, in reply to my question of "How do you like Antwerp?" said with
+great earnestness, "I like St. James's Park a great deal better." I
+observed several ladies with their "petits chapeaux," and I must do them
+the justice to say they are much handsomer than the French, German, or
+Dutch.... English Curricles, coaches, and Chariots are to be seen, and
+some few English horses, which are certainly better calculated for speed
+and pleasant driving than the heavy breed of this country. Flanders
+Mares--as Henry VIII. tells us by comparing his queen to one--have never
+been remarkable for elegance and activity, and I was much entertained in
+seeing an Englishman break in a couple of these for a Tandem.
+
+...At our Table d'hôte, where we met nothing but English merchants, I
+heard the report of the day that Belgium was to be a sort of independent
+state, under the Prince of Orange's government, according to its old
+laws and customs, and that he was to hold a court at Bruxelles.... The
+Prince of Orange is now in fact gone to make his public entrance into
+Bruxelles....
+
+There is a custom that the key of the town should be presented to the
+possessor or Governor of the Town on a magnificent silver-gilt plate.
+When the Cossack chief came, as usual, the key was offered, which the
+good, simple man quietly took, put into his pocket, and forgot to
+return. When I saw the dish, the man told me this anecdote, and lamented
+wofully the loss of his key, which may possibly in future turn the lock
+of some dirty cupboard or other on the banks of the Don. It seems these
+Cossacks were immensely rich. Latterly I have been assured they could
+not fight had they been inclined, from the excessive height of their
+saddles and weight of their clothes; on the one they could scarcely sit,
+and with the others they could scarcely walk. They had always 3 or 4
+Coats or coverings, and in the folds of these were unkennelled 1,330
+Napoleons on one of them who happened to die at Bruxelles.
+
+We quitted Antwerp after dinner yesterday for Bergen op Zoom by a new
+sort of conveyance; by way of variety we "voitured" it, viz., hired a
+carriage, driver, and horses for Breda on our way to Amsterdam. It was a
+nice sort of Gig Phaeton, with comfortable seats for 4, the Driver on
+the front bench. I fear I must retract what I said in the beginning of
+this letter, as to the decided change in houses and people here. It was
+most conspicuous about Malines, but on this road there was nothing
+remarkable one way or the other.
+
+Our road was, however, Dutch throughout. Upon a sort of raised dyke,
+between a monotonous avenue of stunted willows, did we jog gently on,
+with nothing to relieve the eye but here and there a windmill or a farm.
+On our left we saw, as far as eye could reach, the Swamp (or I scarcely
+know what to call it), which fills up the spaces between the Main and
+South Beveland, and it almost gave me the Walcheren fever to look at it.
+The Evening Gun of Flushing saluted the Sun as he sank to rest behind
+these muddy isles, and we begun to fear, as night drew on, that we
+should have to take up our night's lodging in the Gig, for though he
+knew that the gates of the Fortress were closed at 9, our sturdy
+Dutchman moved not a peg the faster. However, we escaped the evil, and
+10 minutes before 9 we passed the drawbridge of the ditch leading to the
+Antwerp gate, which had been the grave of the 1st Column of Guards, led
+by General Cooke, on the 8th March....
+
+
+                                     NOTE.
+
+     _Storming of Bergen op Zoom, March 8, 1814._--Sir Thomas Graham had
+     landed 6,000 men on October 7, 1813, in S. Beveland, in order to
+     combine with the Prussians to drive the French from Holland.
+
+     On March 8, 1814, he led 4,000 British troops against Bergen op
+     Zoom. They were formed into four columns, of which two were to
+     attack the fortifications at different points; the third to make a
+     false attack; the fourth to attack the entrance of the harbour,
+     which is fordable at low water.
+
+     The first, led by Major-General Cooke, incurred some delay in
+     passing the ditch on the ice, but at length established itself on
+     the rampart.
+
+     The right column, under Major-General Skerret and Brigadier-General
+     Gore, had forced their way into the body of the place, but the fall
+     of General Gore and the dangerous wounds of Skerret caused the
+     column to fall into disorder and suffer great loss in killed,
+     wounded, and prisoners. The centre column was driven back by the
+     heavy fire of the place, but re-formed and marched round to join
+     General Cooke. At daybreak the enemy turned the guns of the place
+     on the unprotected rampart and much loss and confusion ensued.
+     General Cooke, despairing of success, directed the retreat of the
+     Guards, and, finding it impossible to withdraw his weak battalions,
+     he saved the lives of his remaining men by surrender.
+
+     The Governor of Bergen op Zoom agreed to a suspension of
+     hostilities for an exchange of prisoners. The killed were computed
+     at 300, prisoners, 1,800.--ED.
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+HAGUE, _August 4, 1814._
+
+Sterne pities the man who could go from Dan to Beersheba and say that
+all was barren, and I must pity the man who travels from Bergen op Zoom
+to Amsterdam and says that Holland, with all its flatness, is not worth
+visiting.
+
+    "Oh Willow, Willow, Willow, here
+     Each stands bowing to another,
+     And every Alley finds its brother."
+
+Nature never abhorred a vacuum more than she herself is abhorred by
+these Dutchmen; here rivers run above their levels and cattle feed where
+fishes were by nature intended to swim. Hogarth's line of beauty is
+unknown in Holland. No line can be either beautiful or palatable except
+that which (defined mathematically) is the shortest that can be drawn
+between two given points. But I have yet a great deal to say before I
+come to these roads. I left you at Bergen op Zoom, just arrived. On
+Sunday morning, after a little enquiry, we were glad to find there was a
+Protestant French Church in the town, and thither we went. I cannot say
+much for the sermon; it was on I Cor. vii. 20, in which a great deal of
+French display of vehemence and action made up in some degree for a
+feeble prolixity of words; in one part, however, he made an appeal,
+which has at least had the effect of eloquence and certainly came home
+to the heart. He described the miseries the country had so long endured
+and the happy change which had now taken place. But while he blest the
+change he lamented the tears which must be shed from the fatal effects
+of the war which produced it; and then turning to us, whom he perceived
+to be Englishmen, he proceeded: "It is for us to lament the sad disaster
+which this town was doomed to witness in the loss of our friends (our
+Compatriots, I may say), who shed their blood for the restoration of our
+liberties." After church I went into the vestry to tell him who and what
+I was. As an Englishman he shook me by the hand, and when he understood
+I was a Protestant minister he shook it again. Had he asked me to dine I
+should have accepted his invitation, but unluckily he lost my company by
+paying what he conceived to be a greater compliment. Like an Indian
+warrior, he offered the calumet of peace and begged I would go home and
+_smoke_ with him. Now, I would have gone through a good deal to have had
+some conversation with him, but really on one of the hottest days of
+July, when I was anxious, moreover, to inspect the fortification,
+smoking would not do, and taking our leave he sent his schoolmaster, an
+intelligent man who had a brother a Captain in one of our assaulting
+regiments, to be our guide and tell the melancholy tale.... And now let
+me see if I can make that clear to you which has never been made clear
+to anybody yet. "At 10 o'clock," said our guide, "I was at supper with a
+little party, some French officers being present; about half after 10
+some musket shots were heard; this was no uncommon sound and we took no
+notice; however, it rather increased, and the French sent a sergeant to
+know the cause, and remained chatting quietly. In about ten minutes in
+burst the sergeant, 'Vite, vite, à vos portes! Les Anglais sont dans la
+ville.'" I need not add the party broke up in a hurry; our Guide sallied
+forth with the rest, and went on the Ramparts for _curiosity_, but
+whilst he was gratifying this passion, on a pitch dark night, down drops
+a man who stood near him, and whiz flew some bullets, upon which he took
+to his heels, got home, and saw no more; indeed, had he been inclined it
+would have been impossible, for Patrols paraded the streets and shot
+every one who was not a French soldier. Thus far our schoolmaster was an
+eye-witness; for the remainder you must trust to my account from as
+minute an enquiry as I could make upon the spot with Sir T. Graham's
+dispatches in my hand, which threw very little light upon the subject.
+
+[Illustration: BERGEN OP ZOOM.
+
+    A. The Steenbergen Gate.
+    B. Breda Gate.
+    C. Antwerp Gate.
+    D. Water Gate.
+    E. Picket of veteran French Soldiers.
+    F. River or creek running into the town.
+    G. Side from whence the English approach.
+    H. Bastion near Breda Gate.
+
+Under the guidance of some inhabitants who had fled to the English, soon
+after 10 o'clock, March 8th, the ground covered with snow and ice, our
+troops marched in silence to their respective posts. The Guards, led by
+General Cooke, were to go round towards B and C, at A a false attack was
+to be made; another column was to force open the gates at B, and the
+4th column, led by Generals Skerret and Gore, proceeded by the dotted
+line, crossed the river up to their middle, and skirting round between
+the works were the first to enter the town behind some houses which
+fronted the Quay. Hitherto all went on well, and the object of all the
+Columns was to concentrate at G, but no sooner had the 4th Column gained
+its point (from what cause nobody knows, for I cannot conceive that the
+immediate loss of its two Generals was the sole cause) than all
+subordination seems to have been at an end, and the men, instead of
+going on, occupied themselves with revelling and drinking and getting
+warm in the houses by the Quay, and though many prisoners were taken,
+they were imprudently left unguarded with arms in their hands, which
+they very soon turned against their captors with fatal success. The
+doors and windows in this part of the town bore evidence of the business
+which for a short time was carried on. The Guards gained their point,
+and so did the Column at B in part, for the French were killed in great
+numbers on Bastion H, in fact, eleven Bastions were taken, and all
+before midnight; but from this period till 7 in the morning, when the
+affair closed, I can give you no clear account. Nobody seemed to know
+what was doing, all appears to have been confusion--not a gun was
+spiked, none were turned towards the Town. In the meantime the French
+were no inactive observers of what was passing; they came forward most
+manfully, fighting hand to hand, and though I could not find out that
+there was the slightest reason for suspecting they were at all prepared
+beyond what was usual, or aware of the attack, they contrived to be
+instantly at the right point, and though with barely 3,000 men to defend
+works, the inner circle of which is at least 2 miles in circumference,
+and with 3,900 men attacking, they remained master of the field, killing
+near 400 and taking 1,500 prisoners. The French General was an elderly
+man who left all to his Aide de Camp. He was, in fact, the head, and has
+been rewarded most deservedly in the ribbon of the Legion of Honor. The
+French, it is supposed, lost 5 or 600 men. The number was certainly
+great, and they were aware of it, for they buried their dead directly,
+to prevent the possibility of counting. The Bergen op Zoom people say it
+is utterly impossible to account for the failure of the assault but on
+the supposition that the English were led to conclude that the French
+would make no resistance or that they were badly officered. I should be
+sorry to believe the latter, and yet I heard from good authority that
+many of these, instead of encouraging their men at the Water post gate,
+were actually busied in collecting braziers and fires to warm themselves
+and rest upon their arms.
+
+It may be supposed that wading on such a night upwards of 50 yards in
+mud and water must have been dreadfully cold, but I can scarcely
+conceive that upon a service so important cold could have any influence;
+however, never having led an assault under such circumstances I can be
+no judge. Were I to give my own opinion, it would be this: That the
+affair was entrusted to certain General officers who were unfortunately
+killed in the beginning of the action; that no precautions appear to
+have been provided against such accidents, and no remedy applied to the
+confusion thereby created--the Columns knew not what to do, each on
+gaining its point possibly waiting for orders to proceed; that the
+darkness increased the confusion--in short, that "the right hand knew
+not what the left hand did," and that the French acted with incomparable
+bravery and skill. It should be added that most of their troops were
+conscripts. It is an ugly story altogether, and I shall say no more. A
+sketch of the works in and near the Antwerp gate will give you some idea
+of the spot which has proved the grave of so many fine officers and men.
+At 4 o'clock we quitted the town for Breda--the greatest part of the
+road inexorably flat and uninteresting; but what is lost in the country
+is gained in the Towns, villages, and people--they are _sui generis_.
+For 3 hours did we toil through a deep sand between parallel lines of
+willows of the same size, shape, and dimensions; then for 3 hours more
+did we proceed at a foot pace over a common; this brought us to Breda
+just in time for the gates, through which we trotted to the usual rattle
+of drawbridges, chains, &c. By the bright light of the moon at night and
+earliest dawn of the following morning we rambled through the streets.
+Breda was one of the last towns which got rid of its French garrison
+without a siege; it departed one night without beat of drum, and the
+Cossacks came in to breakfast, leaving the trembling inhabitants to
+doubt whether in escaping Scylla they were not approaching Charybdis.
+However, they behaved tolerably well. "Did they pillage?" said I to a
+Breda lady who travelled with us in the Diligence. "Oh non," she
+replied; "seulement quelque fois ils prenaient des choses sans payer."
+Thus a Cossack comes into a Shop, makes signs he wants some Cloth. The
+Dutchman, delighted with the idea of accommodating a new purchaser,
+takes down his best pieces. The Cossack looks them over, fixes on one,
+takes it up, pops it under his arm, and walks off, leaving the
+astonished vendor gaping behind his counter to meditate on the Profits
+of this new verbal ceremony.
+
+After the Cossacks came the Prussians, who remained a long time and were
+little better than the French--they lodged in free quarters, domineered
+without mercy, and paid for nothing. All the Prussian officers I have
+seen appeared gentleman-like men, but they are nowhere popular. The
+English succeeded the Prussians, they were all "charmants"; then came
+the Dutch who were "comme ça," but then "n'importe" they were their own
+countrymen. I rather begin to like the Dutch women. The next day in the
+Diligence we had my present informant, a lively, talkative damsel of
+Breda, a very pretty girl of the same town who talked nothing but
+Dutch, and an old Lady who would have been perfect if everything had
+been as charming as her Dress.
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT.]
+
+The Ladies are elegant and apparently well-behaved, with all the
+liveliness of the French. We met with no adventures till we came to a
+river; here a regiment of Dutch cavalry impeded our progress and luckily
+gave us time to get our breakfast; the next river brought us in contact
+with a detachment of Artillery waggons. Our Diligence consisted of a
+Machine with 6 seats inside, a cabriolet in which sat Edward and myself,
+on a little seat before us the driver with his legs dangling for want of
+a footboard. His patience had been rather put to the test by the
+cavalry, but the Artillery quite upset him, and on getting entangled
+amongst their train, uttering two of the French words he had learnt from
+his servitude under the Emperor, viz., "sacré bleu," he popped his pipe
+into his pocket, threw the reins into my hands, and jumped down to
+request the Officer's permission to pass. Under existing circumstances I
+confess I did not much like the responsibility of the charge committed
+to me, but fortunately our conductor soon returned with permission to
+pass. We got out while he drove his 4 in hand quietly into the boat,
+every cranny of which was filled up by soldiers and artillery horses,
+which, as if to shew off the pomp of war, capered and reared before our
+sedate steeds, who only wanted pipes in their mouths to rival the
+impenetrable gravity of their driver. It is necessary to cross the Waal
+before you get to Gorum. When we got to the bank not a boat was to be
+had. With some difficulty at last our Coachman procured a miserable punt
+with a boy. What with our Trunks and passengers we were quite enough for
+it; indeed, the female part of our crew hesitated for some time; and
+well they might, for no sooner had we shoved from the shore than a leak
+was discovered which threatened serious consequences. It gained rapidly;
+the old Lady above mentioned was in despair, and sat with her thumb
+crammed over the spouting orifice the whole time, while a young man
+baled with his shoes as fast as possible. This was not all. The Stream
+carried us down, and our driver--no great sailor--caught crabs at every
+other pull; then we got upon a bank. Really I begun to think it would be
+quite as well to be safe now, but as for _fear_, it was out of the
+question, the lamentations of the women, and terrors of the old lady in
+particular, kept us quite in Spirits. The last event was the total
+overthrow of the driver by a sudden bump against the bank. Poor fellow!
+he was not only well drenched, but his head cut by falling against the
+seat of the boat in his overturn. Though every nerve vibrated with
+compassion, it was quite impossible to avoid laughing. Luckily a glass
+of vinegar well rubbed upon the wound soon set him to rights and good
+humor. Gorum and Naard were the last two towns which the French
+retained, and poor Gorum suffered sadly. The Suburbs, Tea gardens,
+avenues, walks, &c., were all destroyed by the French to prevent the
+Prussians coming in, and their houses and heads knocked about with shot
+and shells to drive the French out. Luckily the French listened to the
+entreaties of the people and capitulated.
+
+I wish they would bombard Knutsford or Macclesfield or some of our Towns
+for an hour or two, just to shew them what war is. Bang, whiz, down
+comes a shell and away goes a house. War and slavery have quite
+reconciled the Dutch to the abdication of Napoleon. In answer to the
+question, "Êtes vous content de ces changements?" you meet with no
+doubtful shrug of the shoulders, no ambiguous "mais que, oui"; an
+instantaneous extra whiff of satisfaction is puffed forth, accompanied
+with the synonimous terms, "Napoleon et Diable." On leaving Gorum we
+acquired an accession of passengers--a protestant clergyman and a fat
+man, who looked much like a conjurer or alchymist. A protestant
+clergyman in Holland may be known by his dress--a cocked hat of a
+peculiar model covers a lank head of unpowdered hair. Nothing white
+appears throughout but the pipe in his mouth and cravat round his neck,
+a long black coat down to his ancles, with black worsted stockings and
+gold-headed cane. I must say they do not look over and above agreeable,
+and as they hate all innovations few have learnt French, so that I have
+been foiled in most of my attempts at conversation.
+
+From Gorum to Utrecht the country improves; we had hitherto travelled
+sometimes on Dyke tops, sometimes in Dyke bottoms which only required
+the efforts of a few able-bodied rats to let the water in upon us. It is
+quite surprising to see on what a precarious tenure Holland is held.
+Take but a Dyke away, overturn one dam, and see what discord
+follows--and this does sometimes happen. In 1809 the Ice broke through
+near Gorum and carried away countless houses, men, cattle, &c. I have
+said the country improved, _i.e._, we got into a land of villas and
+Trees, some of them beautifully laid out, and all, stable included,
+bright and clean as possible. Each, too, has its Summer house perched by
+the Canal side and (the Evening being fine) well filled with parties of
+ladies and gentlemen. The road for many miles was ornamented with wooden
+triumphal arches and hung with festoons of flowers, &c., as a compliment
+to the Emperor Alexander, who passed about a month ago....
+
+...We arrived at Amsterdam on Monday night; here, again, all was new.
+Hitherto we had rode in Carriages of various descriptions _with_ wheels,
+but in Amsterdam you have them without wheels, drawn by a fine horse and
+driven by a man who walks by the side with his long reins....
+
+[Illustration: GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME.]
+
+But what delighted me more than anything else was the prospect of
+suiting Owen and Mary exactly. What think you of a Goat Curricle? Goats
+are regularly trained for draught, and are the prettiest things in the
+world, trotting in neat harness with two or three children. I shall,
+if I have time at Rotterdam, see if I can get a pair. Buonaparte was so
+delighted with them that he ordered 4 for the King of Rome. Amsterdam is
+a very large, gloomy town, intersected in all directions by water,
+monotonous in the extreme. Had I not been convinced by the evidence of
+my senses in looking down from a house top on several objects I had
+visited in different parts of the town, I should have suspected that our
+Laquais de place had amused himself by walking up and down the same
+street where Canals with trees on each side do not keep the houses
+asunder; high buildings and narrow streets of dark, small brown brick
+constitute the character of the town, and, having seen one, you have
+seen the whole. In the course of my walk I heard that two or three
+Englishmen were settled in the town. I called on one, the Revd. Mr.
+Lowe, with little of the Englishman left but the language. He had been
+there 30 years and held a Presbyterian Church. I asked him if Napoleon
+troubled the English settlers during the war. He said that, provided
+they conformed quickly to the laws and regulations, they experienced no
+persecution. Upon my asking if it was at all necessary to conceal his
+extraction, he exclaimed, "What, conceal my extraction, deny my country?
+Not for all the Emperors in the world. No, I have too much conscience
+and independence. To be sure, I was obliged by law to pray for the
+health and prosperity of Buonaparte every Sunday. But what signified
+that? God Almighty understood very well what I meant, and that I
+heartily wished his death all the time." By long residence in Holland,
+he had adopted a good portion of Dutch impenetrability and slowness. He
+assured us nothing short of a week could give us the least chance of
+seeing the curiosities of Amsterdam, and when I told him that we were
+(according to our common custom of early rising) to be in North Holland
+by 6 o'clock in the morning, and had seen all by 11 o'clock which
+occupies a Dutchman's whole day, and gave him a few instances of our
+mode of operation, he threw himself back, raised his cocked hat to
+examine us more thoroughly, put his arms akimbo and exclaimed, "How do
+you support human nature. It must expire under such fatigue," and I
+found it quite impossible to convince him that my health for the last
+month had been infinitely better than usual. But, after all, I fear you
+will find me growing old. I had a compliment paid to my grey hairs, in
+coming from Utrecht, which must be mentioned. The fat Alchymist, above
+mentioned, squeezed himself into Edward's place in the Diligence; on
+remonstrating to a young Dutch gentleman who spoke French, he replied,
+"Que c'était vraiment impoli mais que c'était un viellard à qui on
+devait céder quelque chose, et je vous assure, Monsieur, comme vous êtes
+aussi un peu agé si vous aviez pris ma place je vous l'aurais cédé." In
+Amsterdam there is little to be seen but the Palais, in which there is a
+splendid collection of Flemish pictures--two or three of the finest of
+Rembrandt--and without exception the most splendid room I have seen in
+Europe. It is the great Hall of audience; King Louis[92] has fitted up
+everything in grand style. We went over what the Dutchmen cry up as an
+object which it would be unpardonable not to see--the Felix meritus, a
+sort of Lecture room with some wretched museums attached. I found
+nothing to interest me but a capital figure of a Dutchman, who came also
+to see the wonders. Nothing could exceed his attitudes as he looked with
+an eye of incredulity whilst they explained a planetarium, examined with
+an air of conscious safety a snake corked up in a bottle, and ogled with
+terror a skeleton which grinned at him out of his case. I walked round
+and tried his perspective in all directions, and rather blushed when,
+with treacherous condescension, I requested him to use my Glass that I
+might see how he looked peeping thro' a Telescope. This is such a Museum
+as will furnish me with samples of oddities for the rest of my life.
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+_August_ 6, 1814.
+
+Luckily we have a commodious cabin in the _Trechschuyt_, and no smoke or
+other intruders, so where I finished my last I will begin another.
+
+[Illustration: TABLE D'HOTE, AMSTERDAM.
+
+_To face page 226._]
+
+As to the country, a peep once an hour will be sufficient; I will look
+out of the window and give you the result--five plover, a few fat cows,
+a good many rushes, and a canal bridge. At Amsterdam we dined at a
+regular Dutch table d'hôte; about 20 people, all of them eaters, few
+talkers; the quantity of vegetables consumed was quite surprising. With
+the last dish a boy came round with pipes and hot coals, which were soon
+followed by a tremendous explosion of Tobacco from a double line of
+smokers, and as if the simple operation of puffing in and puffing out
+was too much for these drowsy operators, many of them leaned back in
+their chairs, put their hands in their breeches pockets, shut their
+eyes, and carried on the war with one end of the pipe in their mouths
+and the other leaning on their plates. On Wednesday, Aug. 3rd, we
+crossed the Gulf by sun rise on a little tour into North Holland, to see
+the Village of Brock and Saardam, where the house in which the Czar
+Peter worked still exists. We landed at Buiksloot, from whence carriages
+are hired to different parts of the country. From Breda to Amsterdam
+they varied the Diligences according to the number of travellers;
+sometimes we had a coach and four, and then a machine and three, and as
+our number diminished we were forwarded the last stage or two in a
+vehicle perfectly nondescript with two horses; it was a sort of cart
+painted white, hung upon springs, with an awning, but it was reserved
+for this morning to see us in a carriage far beyond anything before seen
+or heard of. I am inclined to think it must have been the identical
+equipage (for it was a little the worse for wear) which the fairy
+produced from the gourd for the service of Cinderella--a sort of Phaeton
+lined with red flowered velvet, the whole moulding beautifully carved
+and gilt, the panels well painted with flowers, birds, urns, &c., the
+wheels red and gold. It contained two seats for four persons, and a
+coach box painted, carved, and gilt like the body of the carriage; the
+whole was in a Lilliput style drawn by two gigantic black horses, whose
+tails reached above the level of our heads. It was exactly suited to the
+place where we were going, the village of Brock, which, like our
+vehicle, was unlike anything I had seen before. I have, in former
+letters, talked of Dutch cleanliness and neatness, but what is all I
+have said compared with Brock? Even the people have their jokes upon its
+superiority in this particular, and assert that the inhabitants actually
+wash and scrub their wood before they put it on the fire. Lady Penrhyn's
+cottages must yield the palm, they are only internally washed and
+painted, but in Brock, Tops and bottoms, Outside and in, bricks and all,
+are constantly under the discipline of the paint brush, and as if Nature
+was not sufficiently clean in her operations, the stems of several of
+their trees were white washed too! In fact, nothing seemed to
+escape--the Milk pails were either burnished brass or painted buckets,
+and the little straw baskets the women carried in their hands came in
+for their share of blue, red, or green. They have such a dread of dirt,
+that entrance is limited to the back door only, the opening of the
+front door being reserved for grand occasions, such as weddings,
+funerals, &c. It is not accessible by carriages and horses, on account
+of several canals which intersect it; these sometimes widen, and in one
+part the houses stand round a pretty little lake. I can give you no
+better idea of the scene than a Chinese paper, whose neat summer houses
+and painted boats are all mixed together. Most houses have each a
+separate garden, kept in style equally clean. I really believe my own
+dusty shoes were the most impure things in the whole village.
+
+We returned to Buiksloot and then proceeded to Saardam, on the top of a
+Dyke, which keeps the sea from inundating the vast levels of North
+Holland. Saardam might be held up as the pattern of neatness had I not
+visited Brock first; as it is, I can only say that, though four times as
+large, it seems to be its rival in cleanliness and paint. The number of
+windmills is quite astonishing; it would require an army of Don
+Quixotes. I counted myself upwards of 130 in and close to the town; they
+say there are 1,200. Windmills seem great favourites with the Dutch. In
+the Diligence near Utrecht my neighbour roused me by a sudden
+exclamation, "Oh la vue superbe!" I looked, and beheld 14 of them in a
+Dyke! and yesterday, on asking the Laquais de place if we should see
+anything curious at Saardam besides the Czar's house, he replied, "Oh
+que, oui--beaucoup de Moulins!" Peter the Great's house is a small
+wooden cottage close to the town, remarkable for nothing but having been
+his.
+
+[Illustration: SAARDAM.
+
+_To face page 228._]
+
+Alexander had put up two little marble Tablets over the fireplace,
+commemorating his visit to the Imperial residence, on which something
+good and pointed might have been inscribed; as they are, it is merely
+stated that Alexander placed them on, and that Mrs. Von Tets Von Groudam
+stood by, delighted to see him so employed. We returned to Amsterdam by
+3 o'clock and left it at 4 for Haarlem. In Protestant countries
+Cathedrals are not always open; we found that at Haarlem open and a
+numerous congregation listening to a very respectable, venerable-looking
+preacher, whose voice and manner, style and action approached
+perfection. His eloquence, however, seemed to be in vain, for I observed
+many sleepers; and what had an odd effect, though customary in their
+country, the men with their hats on; they take them off, I believe,
+during prayers, but put them down during the sermon; we ascended the
+tower and enjoyed as extensive a view as heart could wish. The sea of
+Haarlem is an immense lake separated from the Gulf by a flood gate and
+narrow dam. The French had a block house and batteries here. In truth,
+Holland does not require above 20 guns to keep out all the enemies in
+the world. Different, indeed, are the Dutch from the French in the
+facility and liberality of access to their curiosities. It required some
+eloquence and more money to induce the key-keeper to let us go up; and
+on asking whether the Organ was to play, he assured us it was not, but
+that if we wished it, the performer would sound the notes for 16
+_shillings_; this was a gross imposition to which we were little
+inclined to submit; but luckily, as we were coming down, we heard it
+opening its great bellows and re-echoing through the body of the church.
+We almost broke our necks in running downstairs, and leaving the Dutch
+guide to take care of himself, we found our way into the Organ loft, to
+the visible annoyance of the performer, who, seeing we were strangers,
+thought himself sure of his eight florins, but his duty and the Church
+service compelled him to go on, and he shook his head and growled in
+vain at our guide, who at this time appeared, intimating that he should
+take us away, as having no business there, but in vain. I heard the
+Organ, counted the 68 stops, examined at my leisure the stupendous
+instrument, while he was under the necessity of continuing his
+involuntary voluntary, till my curiosity was satisfied. We took up our
+residence at an Hotel _in the Wood_, so-called from being the place of
+promenade and site of the new palace, but _ci-devant_ residence of Mrs.
+Hope, and, in fact, from being also a respectable wood of tolerably
+sized trees.
+
+[Illustration: PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM.
+
+_To face p. 230._]
+
+By the best chance in the world here, too, we fell in with a fête on the
+river. Some great Burgomaster had married himself, and all the world of
+Haarlem came forth in boats, decorated with colors, and bands of music
+in procession up the river to pass in review before the Princess of
+Orange, an elderly-looking woman. She sat in the window of a summer
+house overlooking the river, and the festive procession assembled before
+her. It was a lovely evening, and nothing could be more gay and
+animating than the scene. We this morning at 6 quitted Haarlem in the
+boat in which I am now writing as comfortably as in my own room, the
+motion scarcely perceptible, about 5 miles an hour; by good luck few
+passengers, and those above looking at a man who is at this incessant
+Dutch employment of painting. The boat is as clean as a china dish, but
+possibly it may not have been painted since last week. Edward has just
+daubed his hand by looking out of the window. I am rather puzzled in
+getting on here. Very little French is spoken; among the common people
+none, and we converse by signs.
+
+...Their money, too, is puzzling beyond measure. My stock consists of 5
+franc pieces (French), upon which, exclusive of their not always
+understanding what they are, there is a discount; this, of course, adds
+to the confusion, and now I despair of understanding the infinite
+variety of square, hexagon, round coins of copper and silver and base
+metal which pass through my hands.
+
+We passed two hours at Leyden as actively employed as a Foxhunter. We
+found a man who spoke French, told him our wishes, gave him a list of
+what was to be seen in the town, and then desired him to start,
+following him on the full trot up and down churches, colleges,
+Townhalls, &c. These towns are so much alike, that having seen one the
+interest is considerably lessened. Leyden, however, has the honour of
+possessing one of the finest streets in Holland; though capable of
+accommodating 65,000 souls, there are not more than 20,000, which gives
+it a melancholy appearance. In one part there is an area of about 3 or 4
+Cheshire acres planted with trees and divided with walls, which in 1807
+was covered, like the rest of the town, with good houses, but it
+happened that a barge full of gunpowder passing through the canal, blew
+up, killed 200 people, including a very clever Professor Lugai, and
+destroyed all the houses. It was a sad catastrophe, to be sure; but now,
+as it is all over, and all the good people's mourning laid aside, I
+think the Town may be congratulated as a gainer. I could fill up my
+letter with the anatomical preparations of the celebrated Albinus; but
+though I am very partial to these sights, I doubt whether you would be
+amused by a description of dried men, with their hearts, lungs, and
+brains suspended in different bottles. The town is full of booksellers'
+shops, in which capital Classics might be procured and divers others old
+books. The windows were also well filled with new works translated into
+Dutch; few, I think, original; amongst others, I saw "Ida of
+Athens!"[93] ...
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH FISHERMEN.]
+
+It is not easy to trace the sieges of Philip 2nd in these towns, as the
+fortifications are most of them extinct, fortresses of more modern
+construction being now the keys of the country. Neat villas and gardens
+by the canal side marked our approach to the seat of government--and a
+very first-rate Town the Hague is, though I cannot conceive how the
+people escape agues and colds in Autumn. Stagnant canals and pools, with
+all circulation of air checked by rows of trees, cannot be healthy.
+Unfortunately for us, Lord Clancarty is at Bruxelles with the Prince of
+Orange. The Hague appears, from what I have seen, to be a better town
+for permanent residence than Bruxelles or Antwerp. The houses are all
+good, which implies a superior quality of inhabitants. In the evening we
+took a drive to Scheveningen, a fishing village about 2 or 3 miles
+distant, through a delightful avenue. It is one of the fashionable
+resorts of the town, and is absolute perfection on a hot day, though
+pregnant with damp and dew in the evening. I told you of dog carts at
+Bruxelles, but here seems to be the region of despotic sway of the poor
+beasts. I believe that I am not wrong in stating that nearly all the
+fish is carried by them from Scheveningen to the Hague; and the weight
+they draw is surprising. We passed many canine equipages; in one sat a
+fisherman and his wife drawn by three dogs not much bigger than
+Pompey--he with his pipe in his mouth, she with an enormous Umbrella
+Hat, as grave as Pluto and Proserpine. I saw several nice goat gigs;
+moreover, I am determined to have one for Owen....
+
+...It is quite extraordinary with what excessive silence and gravity
+these people carry on their affairs. On returning from Scheveningen at a
+good round trot, we came in contact with another carriage. Luckily no
+other accident happened than breaking their traces and grinding their
+wheels. But though disabled by our driver, not a syllable of complaint
+or commiseration was uttered by one party or the other. Our driver
+proceeded, leaving them to take care of themselves. I observed, too,
+that in manœuvering the Vessel in passing the Gulf yesterday, where some
+tacks were necessary, all was performed in perfect silence; no
+halloo-ing--a nod or a puff was alone sufficient....
+
+And so are we coming to the close of our Tour--our next stage will be
+Rotterdam, from whence I shall bear my own dispatches.... In the course
+of my life this last month will bear a conspicuous place from the
+interesting and delightful scenes it has afforded me. I must confess I
+left England with some waverings and misgivings; the accounts of others
+led me to expect that disappointments, difficulties, and great expense
+would be the inevitable accompaniments of my course. But in no instance
+have I been disappointed, the difficulties too trifling to deserve the
+name, the expense nothing compared with the profits derived, and I have
+seen enough of men and manners, of things animate and inanimate, to make
+me quite at home in some of the great scenes which have just been
+performed....
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH CARRIAGE.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE WATERLOO YEAR
+
+Lord Sheffield's forebodings--Talleyrand and the Senate--Vagabond
+Royalty--Mr. North and Napoleon--The rout of the Bourbon
+Government.
+
+
+1814-1816.
+
+The two years which intervened between Edward Stanley's second and third
+visits to France saw the Empire regained and lost by Napoleon, and the
+French Crown lost and regained by Louis XVIII.
+
+In spite of the rose-coloured description of the comforts and pleasures
+of his journey with which the correspondence of 1814 closes, neither the
+Rector nor his brother found it possible to travel on the Continent in
+1815, which Lady Maria had foretold would be "a much more favourable
+time."
+
+Such hopes must soon have been dashed by the proceedings of the Congress
+of Vienna, which, as was said, "danse mais n'avance pas," and gloomy
+forebodings are shewn in two letters from Lord Sheffield to his
+son-in-law, which were received at Alderley in the autumn of 1814 and
+the spring of 1815.
+
+The first gives Lord Sheffield's view of the situation, and the second
+describes Napoleon's own remarks upon it to Lord Sheffield's nephew, Mr.
+Frederick Douglas.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley_.
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _October 30, 1814_.
+
+It is time I should provoke some symptom of your existence. I have no
+letters from Frederick North,[94] but I can acquaint you that we had
+himself here, which is still better, and that he has been infinitely
+entertaining, after three or four months' tour on the Continent, from
+whence he arrived about three weeks ago, and where he proposes to return
+next week, to pass the winter at Nice with the Glenbervies and Lady
+Charlotte Lindsay, who are gone there, and, I might add, with many other
+English families. I begin to think I shall have more acquaintances on
+the Continent than in England; the migration there is beyond
+calculation.
+
+The present is an anxious period. Perhaps there isn't in the History of
+the world a more complete instance of political imbecility than was
+exhibited in the late Peace at Paris, especially in the Allies not
+availing themselves of the very extraordinary opportunity of securing
+the tranquillity of Europe for a long time.
+
+I conceive that the most selfish ambition will not have been more
+hurtful than liberality run mad. And as I am not without apprehension of
+that fanaticism, which for some time has interfered even with
+Parliament, and to which there has been too much concession, I incline
+to the opinion that enthusiasm, as fanaticism, is generally more hurtful
+to society than scepticism. The fanatic measures are evidently
+systematic and combined.
+
+Everybody now looks eagerly towards the Congress of Vienna. Talleyrand
+displays the cloven foot, by refusing to recognise the junction of all
+the Netherlands. However, the Bourbons, France, and all Europe may be
+thankful to Talleyrand.
+
+You have often heard of Barthélemy.[95] His brother, a banker at Paris,
+first moved in the Senate the déchéance of the Buonaparte family.
+Alexander was treating respecting a Regency. The King of Prussia did not
+attempt to take a lead, but was well disposed to put down the dynasty.
+The Emperor of Austria had always declared that he would treat with
+Buonaparte for Peace, under restrictions, still co-operating with the
+Allies.
+
+While matters were in this state Talleyrand took the opportunity of
+sending a message to the Senate, saying that the family was deposed, and
+by this step decided the business.
+
+Buonaparte never showed a disposition to treat and to agree to terms;
+but when he had seemingly agreed, he denied or broke off the next day.
+The failure or desertion of the Marshals completed his overthrow.
+
+It is surprising that he did not attempt to join Augereau's Army,[96]
+and retire into Italy, where he had forty thousand very good troops. At
+all events we must rest upon the pinnacle of glory and honour, although
+we have not secured a permanency of them. By premature concession we
+have yielded the means of securing the advantages we had gained.
+
+The affair at Lake Champlain[97] has been most unlucky, as it will
+encourage the Yankies, under the present inveterate and execrable
+Government, to persevere in a ruinous warfare--ruinous to the American
+States, and galling to this country, liable to be distracted by the
+efforts of an interested and mischievous faction, which, through lack of
+firmness in Government, often paralyses measures of the utmost
+consequence.
+
+I have seen several letters from Madrid, and I have one from thence now
+before me of the 3rd inst.
+
+A degree of infatuation prevails there which you could hardly conceive
+possible. The account comes from a very respectable and rational
+quarter. The most respectable characters are most violently persecuted,
+and the persons arraigned are confined in dungeons, no communication
+permitted; and persons convicted of the most atrocious acts are not even
+in disgrace.
+
+While officers and soldiers invalided by wounds are starving, the
+King[98] is profuse to persons of no merit, and has given a pension of
+1,000 dollars to a young lady who sang before him, &c., &c.
+
+The Spanish Funds, which on the King's arrival were at 85, are now at
+50. The Revenue is less than 20 millions of Dollars, the expenditure
+nearly 50.
+
+Spain is likely to be in as bad a state as ever, excepting the presence
+of a French Army; consequently I conceive their Transatlantic Dominions
+will be lost to them.
+
+Nothing, however, could be more favourable to our Commerce than their
+emancipation. Such an event, and a proper Boundary between us and the
+American States, would be the most favourable result of the war to this
+country.
+
+There is an uncommonly good Pamphlet published on this subject entitled
+"A completed View of the points to be discussed in treating with the
+American States." I cannot do less than admire it, because it seems
+taken from my shop, or at least it adopts all the principles, with a
+considerable amelioration, by taking the Line of Mountains into the
+Lakes, and all the Lakes within our Boundary.
+
+I am very much entertained with an Anecdote in a letter of the 8th inst.
+now before me, from Switzerland, which states that the Princess of Wales
+dined a few days before with the Empress Maria Louisa and the
+Archduchess Constantine,[99] at Berne, and after dinner the Empress and
+Princess sang Duets, and the Archduchess accompanied them. Two years ago
+nobody would have believed such an event possible.
+
+All this vagabond Royalty is found extremely troublesome by travellers,
+filling up all the beds, and carrying away all the horses. The above
+dinner party reminds me of Candide meeting at the Table d'Hôte during
+the Carnival at Venice, with two ex-emperors, and a few ex-kings.
+
+The Princess of Wales could not be prevailed on to remain more than ten
+days at Brunswick. She left Lady Charlotte Lindsay[100] and Serinyer
+behind her, and proceeded with Lady Elizabeth Forbes to Strasburg, where
+she found Talma, the renowned Actor, and halted there ten days.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley._
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _February 1, 1815_.
+
+We are much entertained with Fred Douglas's[101] account of his visit of
+four days to the Isle of Elba.
+
+On the third evening he had an interview with Buonaparte for an hour and
+a half--the conversation very curious. He says that Buonaparte is not at
+all like any of his Prints; that he is a stout, thick-set figure, which
+makes him look short; his features rather coarse and his eyes very
+light, and particularly dull; but his mouth, when he smiles, is full of
+a very sweet, good-humoured expression; that at first he strikes you as
+being a very common-looking man, but upon observing him and conversing
+with him, you perceive that his countenance is full of deep thought and
+decision.
+
+He says he received him with much good humour, and talked to him of the
+English Constitution, with which he seemed well acquainted; said that
+France never could have the same, because it wanted one of the principal
+parts of it, "Les Nobles de Campagne." He talked also much about our
+church Laws, of which he appeared to be well informed, but said he heard
+there was much ill humour in Scotland on account of the _Union_!
+Frederick thought he meant Ireland, but found he really did mean
+Scotland, and had no idea that the Union had taken place above a hundred
+years ago.
+
+He said he did not think the Peace would last; that the French Nation
+would never submit long to give up Belgium, and that he would have
+yielded all except that; that he would have given up the Slave Trade, as
+it was a Brigandage of very little use to France. He had a most
+extraordinary idea of how it should be abolished, viz., he said he
+would allow Polygamy among the Whites in the West Indies, that they
+might inter-marry with the Blacks, and all become Brothers and Sisters.
+He said that he had consulted a Bishop upon this, who had objected to it
+as contrary to the Christian Religion.
+
+He seemed very anxious to know concerning the quarrels of the Regent and
+his wife, upon which subject F., of course, evaded giving him any
+answers. He said, "On dit qu'il aime la Mère de ce Yarmouth--mais vous
+Anglais, vous aimez les vielles Femmes," and he laughed very much. He
+avoided speaking of Maria Louisa, but spoke of Joséphine with affection,
+saying, "Elle étoit une excellente Femme." He said that the motive of
+his expedition into Russia was, first, that it was necessary to lead the
+French Army somewhere, and then that he wished to establish Poland as an
+independent kingdom; for that he had always loved the Poles, and had
+many obligations to them. He talked of all his battles as you would of a
+show, saying "C'étoit un Spectacle magnifique."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+When Napoleon had fulfilled his own prophecies of the prompt disturbance
+of the Peace of Europe by landing at Cannes, just six days from the date
+of this last letter, Lord Sheffield writes again, after war had been
+declared by the Allies.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley._
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _March 24, 1815_.
+
+I was greatly oppressed by the first intelligence of Napoleon's
+Invasion. I was afterwards re-elevated, and now I am tumbled down again.
+
+To be sure, there never was such an execrable nation as the French. The
+much more respectable Hindoos could not more meekly submit to any
+conqueror that chooses to run through their country at the head of a set
+of miscreant soldiers. The Pretorian band that in the time of Imperial
+Rome used to dispose of Empires is perfectly re-established. Immediate
+notice was sent me from Newhaven of the Duke of Feltre's[102] (Minister
+of War) arrival there, and of poor Louis's flight from Paris.
+
+I immediately set out, with the intention of rendering service to the
+variety of wretches that were pouring in upon our coast, English and
+French, but on my way called at Stanmer, where I found that this famous
+Minister of War was gone forward to London, that the few ship-loads that
+had got over to Newhaven were disposed of, and an embargo having been
+laid on the Ports of France, of course there was nothing more to be done
+on our coast.
+
+I returned home at night, and just as I was going out of Stanmer Park I
+met the Duke of Taranto[103] entering, for whom Lord Chichester had sent
+his carriage. The Duke of Feltre brought the intelligence that the King
+was at Abbeville.
+
+I was considerably annoyed, because it seemed like inclining to England,
+and relinquishing all hopes of France. At Abbeville he certainly might
+turn off to Lisle, where I hope he is gone, and there, if there be any
+loyal Frenchmen, they may flock round his standard.
+
+All accounts, and letters, that I have seen from France agree that the
+country is almost universally against Buonaparte, and it is very clear
+all the Army is for him, and that all the Marshals adhere to Louis,
+except two. If so, and Napoleon has not the aid of his old Generals, he
+may find it difficult to manage the many Armies that he must keep on
+foot to repel the attacks that will be made on him from all sides.
+
+I cannot help thinking he is in a bad situation still. When all the
+Russians, Cossacks, Croats, Hungarians, Austrians, and all Germany
+clatter round him, and our very respectable army from the Netherlands
+advances, if he has nothing but the army in his favour, he will be
+considerably bothered, and I hope the sentimental, silly Alexander will
+never be suffered to interfere with his "beaux sentimens" in favour of
+the monster. If he should be taken and I had the command I should never
+trouble Alexander nor anybody else, but take him by the Drum head,
+giving something like the sort of trial the Duc d'Enghien had and
+immediately extinguish him by exactly the same process, ceremony, &c.,
+as he practised on the Duc d'Enghien.
+
+After all, and the worst of all, is that I apprehend we must pay the
+piper to enable the above-mentioned Hordes to take possession of France,
+and when there I flatter myself they will live upon the country. If we
+do not make some effort of the kind, all the money we have shed may be
+in a great degree thrown away. One great difficulty occurs to me, how
+will it be possible to dispose of the present French Army if it should
+be conquered, and how raise a French Army to maintain Louis's dominion?
+
+If Napoleon should be utterly extinguished, it may be possible to do
+something, but if he escapes (yet I know not where he can go) a large
+foreign Army must remain a long time in France.
+
+I must conclude by observing what a very extraordinary, strange creature
+a Frenchman is! Instead of attending the King, or suppressing Navy
+Depôts where there are only fifty loyal men, the Minister of War flies
+to England, and, as he represented, in order to join the King in
+Flanders. At Paris he was certainly nearer Flanders than he was at
+Dieppe....
+
+Yours ever,
+
+SHEFFIELD.
+
+The Victory of Waterloo ended all fears of a fresh Imperial Despotism,
+and also all the hopes of those who, like Lord Sheffield and the Stanley
+family, were no great admirers of the Bourbon Dynasty.
+
+Edward Stanley's desire to revisit France was now coupled with a wish to
+realise the scene of the late Campaign, and he planned his journey so as
+to arrive there on the first anniversary of the battle, June 18, 1816.
+
+He was accompanied by Mrs. Stanley, by his brother-in-law, Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn,[104] who had travelled with him in 1814, and by their
+mutual friend, Donald Crawford.
+
+Mrs. Stanley's bright and graphic letters contribute to the story of
+their adventures, and are added to make it complete.
+
+[Illustration: _Corn Mills at Vernon, July 11 1816._
+
+_To face p. 247._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+AFTER WATERLOO
+
+A long Channel passage--Bruges--The battlefield--A posting
+journey--Compiègne--Paris--Michael Bruce.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+_Spring, 1816._
+
+...Edward has long talked of a week at Waterloo, and all the rest of the
+plan came tumbling after one day in talking it over with Edward
+Leycester, as naturally as possible, and I expect almost as much
+pleasure in seeing Cambridge and being introduced to the looks and
+manners at least of E. L.'s friends, and in seeing him there as in
+anything else. We are to pay a visit to Sir George and Lady Scovell at
+Cambray, and perhaps to Sheffield Place, on our return....
+
+
+ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE,
+_June, 1816_.
+
+I am very glad to have this opportunity of seeing what a college life
+is, as well as seeing Cambridge itself and its contents animate and
+inanimate. I like both very much.
+
+We had a very pleasant journey. The road is not only prettier by
+Ashbourne and Derby, but better, and, provided your nerves can stand
+cantering down hill sometimes, you get on faster than on the other road.
+We drank tea at Nottingham on Monday and went up to the Castle.
+
+We arrived at Cambridge by 6 o'clock on Tuesday evening, and found
+Edward deep in his studies....
+
+This morning we breakfasted with George,[105] and, after seeing
+libraries and people and buildings till I am tired, here I am, snug and
+comfortable, in Edward's room....
+
+We are off to-morrow for London.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Josepha Stanley._
+
+BLENHEIM HOTEL, LONDON,
+_Saturday_.
+
+As we were coming yesterday Edward looked at the wind and decided that
+if Donald was not in the Thames then, he would have no chance of being
+here this week. We had not been here an hour when in he walked in high
+feather and gave me more reasons than I can remember for leaving his
+sisters and going with us....
+
+I have been to Waterloo[106] and in Buonaparte's carriage. He has given
+an alarm by writing to France in spite of all their precautions.... We
+have got our passports and arranged our going. Edward came back from the
+city with three plans--the steamboat, the packet, or a coach to
+ourselves to Ramsgate. We debated the three some time, at last, on the
+strength of hearing that the steamboat had been out two nights on its
+passage once, we decided on the coach, and the places were just secured
+when Mr. Foljambe came in and told us he was going to Ramsgate on
+Tuesday with some other friends of Edward's, and that it was the nicest
+vessel ever seen and more punctual than any coach, which made us all
+very angry as you may guess.... We set out to-morrow morning and get
+into the packet at Ramsgate at 7 in the evening. Let me find a nice
+folio at Paris, care of Perrigaux, Banquier, and I shall not feel your
+handwriting the least interesting thing I have to see there.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Louisa Dorothea Stanley._
+
+RAMSGATE, _June 11th_.
+
+Rapidly went the coach from Canterbury, 17 miles in an hour and a half.
+Fair blows the wind over the azure blue billow. "You will breakfast at
+Ostend," says the Captain, "to-morrow." "Oh, that Louisa were here!"
+says Donald. "She would die of delight," says Uncle, "and does not Uncle
+say true?" Conceive the view from Nottingham Castle on the evening we
+left Alderley ... a noble precipice, frowning over a magnificent plain,
+from the terraces of which we beheld immediately at our feet almost
+numberless--for I counted in a second 54--little pets of gardens, each
+adorned with a love of a summerhouse to suit; in the corners of the
+rocks many excavations and caverns fancifully cut out and carved, into
+which each of the proprietors of the above-mentioned gardens might at
+leisure retire and become his own hermit. Then how shall I touch upon
+the delights of Cambridge? How shall I speak of Edward's beauty in his
+cap, all covered with little bows, and a smart black gown? And how shall
+I speak of his dinner and his party? Such merriment! Such hospitality!
+Only think, Louisa, of dining, breakfasting and supping day after day
+with 14 or 15 most accomplished, beautiful, and entertaining young
+gentlemen! But no more, lest you expire at the thought! As for London, I
+cannot well tell you what I did or saw, such a confused multiplicity of
+sights and succession of business have seldom been experienced. At 6
+this morning we started in the stage coach, the interior of which we
+took, excluding all intruders, and from hence at 3 o'clock on a lovely
+night, with an elegant moon, we embarked for Ostend.
+
+
+(_Continued by Mrs. Stanley._)
+
+I have persuaded Uncle to carry his letter over the water that you may
+not have the anxiety of thinking for 2 days about the passage, which a
+gentleman who dined with us to-day informed us was the most precarious,
+dangerous, and uncertain known.
+
+But I consoled myself with not believing the gentleman in the first
+place, and by thinking with Aunt Clinton that as Mrs. Carleton was
+drowned so lately at Ostend, it is not likely another accident should
+happen at present.
+
+Here we are, waiting for the awful moment of embarkation, which I
+consider something like having a tooth out, but I live in hopes that,
+having been up early this morning and had 10 hours' jumbling, I may be
+sleepy enough to forget that I am on a shelf instead of a bed; so I have
+been just to admire the moon as we sail out of harbour, and then go to
+bed and find myself in sight of Ostend when I awake.
+
+
+(_E. Stanley resumes next day._)
+
+A dead calm succeeded to a gentle breeze, and on the soft, sleepy
+billows we have reposed in the Downs, rolling ever since. To comfort us
+we have a beautiful Packet and a limited number of passengers.
+
+The discomfort consists in a rapid diminution of all our provisions and
+the consequent prospect of no Tea, supper, or breakfast, or dinner
+to-morrow. One sailor said to another as he was skinning some miserable
+fish, "Aye, aye, they" (meaning the passengers) "will be glad enough of
+these in a day or two, and I was eleven days becalmed last year."
+
+Kitty, to fill up an hour of vacuity, said she would draw, and to fill
+up my time this testifies that I have been thinking of you and wishing
+for your presence, for the Novelty alone would keep you in full
+effervesence and banish all Tediosity.
+
+I have, moreover, been playing with a sweet little French dog brought by
+one of the sailors from Boulogne. The sailors have daily given him two
+glasses of gin to check his growth, and a marvellous dog of Lilliput he
+is! Pray, my dear Lou, drink no gin, for you see the consequences.
+
+I had retired to bed, when Edward Leycester called me up to admire a
+beautiful display of Neptune's fireworks; wherever the surface of the
+waves was agitated, the circles of silver flashed and the drops were
+scattered far and wide.
+
+The morning dawned upon us nearly in the same position, not a breath
+troubled the surface, smooth and still as Radnor Mere on the sweetest
+evening.
+
+Famine began to stare us in the face; our provisions were nearly
+exhausted; two or more days might elapse before we reached Ostend.
+
+We breakfasted on tea, fried skate and cheese. Breakfast at an end, it
+was proposed to board the nearest vessel and beg or borrow a dinner. In
+the tide course appeared a sail, about five miles distant.
+
+The boat was lowered, volunteers stepped forward--Uncle, Edward, Donald,
+and a gentleman-like Belgian.
+
+Away we went and by hard rowing we came alongside the strange sail in an
+hour. Three leaden figures, motionless as the unwieldly bark they
+manned, gazed curiously upon our approaching boat. Our Belgian friend
+hailed, but hailed in vain. They looked but spoke not. Again he spoke,
+and at length a monotonous "yaw" proclaimed that they were not dumb.
+
+We went on board and found a perfect Dutch family on their way from
+Antwerp to Rouen. Out stepped from her cabin the Captain's wife in
+appropriate costume, her close little cap, large gold necklace and
+ear-rings; and behind the Captain's spouse stepped forth two genuine
+descendants of the nautical couple. Large round heads with large round
+(what shall I say?) Hottentots to match and keep up the due balance
+between head and tail.
+
+Having explained our wants to the Captain, he produced as the chief
+restorative an incomparable bottle of Schiedam, _i.e._, gin. To each he
+offered a good large glass, and then in answer to our request for beef,
+four bottles of excellent claret, two square loaves. For this he asked a
+guinea, upon receiving which his features relaxed and he declared we
+should have two more bottles of claret. Upon hearing we had a lady in
+the packet he begged her acceptance of half a neat's tongue, some
+butter, and a bag of rusks. Loaded with them, we took a joyful leave of
+these sombre sailors and returned, with the orange cravat of our Belgian
+friend for a flag, in triumph to the packet.
+
+But a truce to my pen. Ostend is in sight, and now we are all rubbing
+our hands and congratulating each other that wind and tide are in our
+favour and that we shall be in in a couple of hours.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Isabella Stanley._[107]
+
+BRUGES, _June 14, 1816_.
+
+On our return from the Dutch vessel from which we recruited our
+exhausted store, we found our poor Captain in sad tribulation, his
+patience exhausted, but his temper luckily preserved. Having paced his
+deck with a fidgeting velocity a due number of times, peeped thro' his
+glass at every distant sail or cloud to observe whether they were in any
+degree movable, and invoked Boreas in the most pitiable terms such as
+"Oh Borus! Now do, good Borus just give us a blow," we had the
+satisfaction at length, the supreme satisfaction, of perceiving a gentle
+curl upon the water which soon settled into a steady breeze, before
+which we glided away, delightfully enjoying our dinner upon the deck,
+during which our party manifested their respective characters in most
+charming style. One Farmer Dinmont[108] and Dousterswivel, a Dutchman,
+were perfect specimens. A merry Belgian Equerry to the Prince of Orange,
+laughed, joked, and amused us with sleight-of-hand tricks. Our Dutch
+beef, tho' doubtless salt far beyond due proportion, was relished by
+all, Dinmont excepted, who pronounced it, together with the
+dark-coloured bread, unfit for English hogs, and shook his head with a
+most significant expression of doubt at my assertion that I never
+enjoyed a better dinner in my life. At five o'clock the low sand hills
+appeared to view in little nodules upon the horizon, and the Steeple of
+Ostend with its Lighthouse were visible from deck. At 6 we were close in
+upon land, and in half an hour were boarded by a Dutch boat, but alas!
+there was nothing in its appearance to excite curiosity, and with the
+exception of large earrings you might have fancied yourself in Holyhead
+Harbour. Four stout, tall fellows, hard and resolute in feature and
+decided in action, proclaimed their near alliance to British Jack Tars.
+They remained a little while and tried to cheat the passengers as much
+as possible, to take us on shore, but finding us determined to remain
+till the Captain could get his own boat ready, they shrugged their
+shoulders, abused us in Dutch, and sailed away. We were too many for one
+boat, so taking Kitty and the best of our English passengers and honest
+Farmer Dinmont, with all the luggage, we pushed off from the vessel.
+People of all descriptions, pilots, sailors, customs officers, soldiers,
+waiters soliciting customs for their respective turns. Porters regular
+and irregular, the latter consisting of a sort of light Infantry corps
+of ragged boys. All these people, I say, were crowded together on a
+little peninsular jetty against which our boat was shoved, and no sooner
+had the oars ceased to play and our keel cleared the sand than all these
+people set up their pipes in every dialect of every tongue, French and
+English both bad of their sort, Dutch high and low, Flemish and German.
+All burst upon us at one and the same moment, and the Cossack corps of
+ragged porters all stept forward, arm, leg and foot, to claim the honour
+of carrying up (most probably of carrying off) our baggage. By dint of
+words fair and foul, a shove here and a push there, I contrived to get
+Kitty under my arm and superintend, tho' with no small trouble and
+inconceivable watchfulness, the adjustment of our small portmanteaux,
+writing case, &c., in a wheelbarrow, which, from its formidable length
+of handle, bespoke its foreign manufacturer. On we jogged, but jogged
+not long; for before this accumulating procession could disperse we were
+arrested by a whiskered soldier, who in unintelligible terms announced
+himself a searcher of baggage. So to the custom house we went, when each
+trunk was opened and submitted to a slight inspection; the chief
+difficulty consisting in putting myself in 2 places at once--one close
+to the depôt of our goods in the barrow, the other before the officer
+with the keys. Kitty was wedged in a corner with a writing case and, I
+think, Donald's sword. My English companion was equally on the alert,
+but Farmer Dinmont would have excited all your compassion, or rather
+admiration; for here amidst the din of tongues and arms, unable to move
+hand or foot, he stood with a smile of mingled resignation and wonder;
+at length, the search being concluded to the satisfaction of both
+parties, we re-commenced our course, and in a few minutes Kitty found
+herself in a new world. Women and children unlike any women and children
+you ever saw; close caps with butterfly wings for the former, little
+black skull bonnets for the latter, in shape both alike, much resembling
+those toys which, if placed on their heads, by their superior specific
+gravity and extensive sacrifice of their lower projections instantly
+revolve and settle upon their tails.
+
+"Voici, Messieurs et Madame, entrons dans la Cour Impériale," and
+another moment hoisted us within the covered gateway of this Hotel of
+Imperial appellation. Our arrangements for sleeping and eating being
+complete, we sat down on a bench before the door to gaze, but not to be
+gazed upon, for the good people never cast an eye upon us. On retiring
+to tea, good Farmer Dinmont's countenance relaxed as he flung himself
+into a chair; he put his hands upon the table and exclaimed, "Well,
+well, here I am sitting down for the first time out of Old England!" ...
+A cup of tea, or rather a kettle full, for our salt beef had kindled an
+insatiable thirst, put him in good humour again, and, but for a sort of
+sigh or a look or a jerk which proved Old England to be uppermost in his
+thoughts, he appeared quite satisfied. With some trouble Kitty secured
+the fly cap chambermaid and had taken possession of her room; having
+seen her safe, I descended to give orders for a warming-pan, leaving her
+(after having been 2 nights in her clothes) to the luxury of an entire
+change of linen and course of ablutions. On re-crossing the court 10
+minutes afterwards I ran against a waiter running off with a
+warming-pan, glowing with red-hot embers. "Mais donc" said I, "Madame
+wants a warming-pan. Allons, where is the chambermaid to carry it?" "Oh,
+n'importe," replied this flying Mercury; "c'est moi qui fera cela pour
+la dame!" Only guess Kitty's escape! Another moment and he would have
+been in her presence, warming-pan and all. By dint of remonstrating I
+checked his course and prevailed upon the Maid to go herself with vast
+ill humour, innumerable shrugs, and some few "Mon Dieu's" and other
+suitable expressions. Kitty must herself be the interpreter of her own
+feelings in these lands of novelty. I am almost glad you were, none of
+you, here to witness what she will have such pleasure in describing. Our
+morning passed away in strolling over the town. Kitty and I dined at the
+table d'hôte with about 20 people. Farmer Dinmont sent for a bottle of
+the best wine to try it and offered me a glass. I begged to propose a
+toast, "Prosperity to Old England." His features brightened up, he
+grasped the bottle, filled a bumper, and replied, "Aye, aye, with all my
+heart; that Toast I would drink in ditch water." We left Ostend at 3
+o'clock to take passage in the Bruges canal, and I do assure you we all
+felt quite sorry to leave our dear, good, honest John Bull.
+
+At Saas we fell in with a specimen of Lord Wellington's operations.
+There is a formidable battery erected last year by way of guarding
+Ostend from a "coup de main"; it is singular that the English have
+placed a Battery for the defence close to the celebrated sluice gates of
+this canal, which gates were blown up by Sir Evelyn Coote to prevent the
+French from inundating the country, when he invaded it some years
+before.
+
+Behold us seated in a spacious room, for it does not deserve the
+diminutive name of "Cabin," decorated with hangings of green cloth and
+gold border, on board a most commodious barge. Behold us on a lovely
+evening starting from the Quay with full sail and 3 horses, a man
+mounted on one and cracking a great long whip to drive on the other two,
+which trotted away abreast at the rate of 4-1/2 miles an hour. Behold us
+seated on this easy chair of Neptune! our ears deafened and our spirits
+enlivened by a band of music--trumpet, violin, and bass--admirably
+playing Waltzes and other national tunes. When they had amused us on
+deck they went below to another class of auditors. Our fellow traveller,
+Mr. Trueman, followed them, and perceiving him to be English they struck
+up "God save the King." A Frenchman called out "Ba, ba," a very
+expressive mode of communicating disapprobation, but seeing Trueman was
+of a different opinion, he ceased from his "Ba, ba," and stepping
+towards him made him a low bow. About 6 o'clock we arrived at Bruges, or
+rather to the wharf from whence passengers betake themselves and
+portmanteaux to barrows and sledges. As we approached our Band resumed
+their musical exertions. A crowd assembled to welcome our arrival, Gigs,
+coaches (such coaches!!), Horsemen (such Horsemen!!), were parading.
+Such a light with such a rainbow shone upon such an avenue and such
+picturesque gate!! Our baggage filled a car drawn by 3 stout men; and we
+all followed in the rear.... Bruges is a town affording five or six
+volumes of sketches; towers, roofs, gable ends, bridges--all in
+succession called for exclusive admiration. It was decided that we
+should rise at 4, breakfast at 6, and see all that was possible before
+9, when we were to continue our route to Ghent. At 3 o'clock I was
+prepared, but a steady rain forced me reluctantly to bed again, but we
+did breakfast at 6, and did pick up two or three sketches.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+BRUSSELS, _June 18, 1816_.
+
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH CABRIOLET.
+
+_To face p. 260._]
+
+On the 18th of June, how can I begin with any other subject than
+Waterloo?... At 8 this morning we mounted our Cabriolets for Waterloo.
+Donald put on his Waterloo medal for the first time, and a French shirt
+he got in the spoils, and a cravat of an officer who was killed, and I
+wrapped myself in his Waterloo cloak, and we all felt the additional
+sensation which the anniversary of the day produced on everybody. It
+brought the comparison of the past and present day more perfectly home.
+Donald was ready with his recollections every minute of the day, what
+had been his occupation or his feeling. The forest of Soignies is a fine
+approach to the field of battle--dark, damp, and melancholy. If you had
+heard nothing about it, you could hardly help feeling, in passing
+through it, that you would not like to cross it alone. There are no fine
+trees, but the extent and depth of wood gives it all the effect of a
+fine one, and an effect particularly suited to the associations
+connected with it. The road--a narrow pavement in the middle with black
+mud on each side--looks as if it had never felt a ray of sun, and from
+its state to-day gave me a good idea of what it must have been.
+Sometimes the road is raised thro' a deep hollow, and it was not
+possible to look down without shuddering at the idea of the horses and
+carriages and men which had been overturned one upon another; in some
+parts the trees are _à la_ Ralph Leycester, and you see the dark black
+of shade of the distant wood through them; but in other parts it is so
+choked with brushwood and inequalities of ground, that you could not see
+two yards before you, and no gorge was ever so good a cover for foxes as
+this for all evil-disposed persons. At Waterloo we stopped to see the
+Church, or rather the monuments in it, put up by the different regiments
+over their fallen officers. They are all badly designed and executed but
+one Latin one--not half so good as the epitaph on Lord Anglesey's leg
+which the man had buried with the utmost veneration in his garden and
+planted a tree over it; and he shows as a relic almost as precious as a
+Catholic bit of bone or blood, the blood upon a chair in the room when
+the leg was cut off, which he had promised my lord "_de ne jamais
+effacer_".
+
+At Mont St. Jean Donald began to know where he was. Here he found the
+well where he had got some water for his horse; here the green pond he
+had fixed upon as the last resource for his troop; here the cottage
+where he had slept on the 17th; here the breach he had made in the hedge
+for his horses to get into the field to bivouac; here the spot where he
+had fired the first gun; here the hole in which he sat for the surgeon
+to dress his wound. He had never been on the field since the day of the
+battle, and his interest in seeing it again and discovering every spot
+under its altered circumstances was fully as great as ours.
+
+After all that John Scott[109] or Walter Scott or anybody can describe
+or even draw, how much more clear and satisfactory is the conception
+which one single glance over the reality gives you in an instant, than
+any you can form from the best and most elaborate description that can
+be given! To see it in perfection would be to have an officer of every
+regiment to give you an account just of everything he saw and did on the
+particular spot where he was stationed.
+
+Donald scarcely knew as much as Edward did or as the people about of
+what passed anywhere but just at his own station. But at every place it
+was sufficient to ask the inhabitants where they were and what they
+saw, to obtain interesting information.
+
+[Illustration: Hougoumont ... June 18th
+
+_To face p. 263._]
+
+Every plan I have seen makes it much too irregular, rough ground; it is
+all undulating, smooth ups and downs, so gradual that you must look some
+time before you discover all the irregularity there is. Hougoumont[110]
+is the only interesting point, and that by having an air of peace and
+retirement about it most opposite to what took place in it.
+
+It is a respectable, picturesque farmhouse, with pretty trees and sweet
+fields all around it; the ravages are not repaired and many of the trees
+cut down. We left our carriages in the road and walked all over the
+British position, and henceforward I shall have a clearer idea, not only
+of Waterloo, but of what a military position and military plan is like.
+
+At La Belle Alliance we sat upon a bench where Lord Wellington and
+Blücher perhaps met, and drank to their healths in Vin de Bordeaux. In
+spite of the corn, there are still bits of leather caps and bullets and
+bones scattered about in the fields, and you are pestered with children
+innumerable with relics of all sorts. We had heard magnificent accounts
+on our road here of all that was to be done on the field, balls, fêtes,
+sham fights, processions, and I do not know what, but they have all
+dwindled to a dinner given here to the Belgian soldiers and a Mass to be
+said for the souls of the dead to-morrow. However, we saw what we
+wished as we wished, and the impression is perhaps clearer than if it
+had been disturbed and mixed with other sights.
+
+And now, being near 12, and I having walked about 8 miles, and been up
+since 6, must go to bed, though I feel neither sleepy nor tired.
+
+
+_To Lucy Stanley._
+
+_June 24, 1816._
+
+...Away with me to Waterloo!
+
+We arrived at Brussels on the evening of the 17th, and at seven o'clock
+started for the scene of action. From Brussels a paved road, with a
+carriage track on each side, passes for nine miles to the village of
+Waterloo.
+
+The Forest (of Soignies) is, without exception, one of the most
+cut-throat-looking spots I ever beheld, ... and for some days after the
+battle deserters and stragglers, chiefly Prussians, took up their abode
+in this appropriate place, and sallying forth, robbed, plundered, and
+often shot those who were unfortunate enough to travel alone or in small
+defenceless parties.
+
+After traversing this gloomy avenue for about four miles, the first
+symptoms of war met our eyes in the shape of a dead horse, whose ribs
+glared like a cheval-de-frise from a tumulus of mud. If the ghosts of
+the dead haunt these sepulchral groves, we must have passed through an
+army of spirits, as our driver, who had visited the scene three days
+after the battle, described the last four miles as a continued pavement
+of men and horses dying and dead.
+
+[Illustration: Interior of Hugomont June 18, 1816.
+
+_To face p. 265._]
+
+At length a dome appears at the termination of the avenue. It is the
+church of Waterloo. They were preparing for a mass and procession, and
+the houses were most of them adorned with festoons of flowers or
+branches of trees....
+
+...We turned to the right down the Nivelle road, for it was there
+Donald's gun was placed, and some labourers who were ploughing on the
+spot brought us some iron shot and fragments of shell which they had
+just turned up. The hedges were still tolerably sprinkled with bits of
+cartridge-paper, and remnants of hats, caps, straps, and shoes were
+discernible all over the plains. Hougoumont was a heap of ruins, for it
+had taken fire during the action, and presented a very perfect idea of
+the fracas which had taken place that day year. How different now! A
+large flock of sheep, with their shepherd, were browsing at the gate,
+and the larks were singing over its ruins on one of the sweetest days we
+could have chosen for the visit. As I was taking a sketch in a quiet
+corner I heard a vociferation so loud, so vehement, and so varied, that
+I really thought two or three people were quarrelling close to me. In a
+moment the vociferator (for it was but one) appeared at my elbow with an
+explosion of French oaths and gesticulations equal to any discharge of
+grape-shot on the day of attack. "Comment, Monsieur," said I, "What is
+the matter?" "Oh, les coquins! les sacrés coquins" and away he went,
+abusing the coquins in so ambiguous a style that I doubted whether his
+wrath was venting against Napoleon or against his opponents. "Oui,"
+remarked I, "ils sont coquins; et Buonaparte, que pensez-vous de lui?"
+This was a sort of opening which I trusted would bring him to the point
+without a previous committal of myself. It certainly did bring him to
+the point, for he gave a bounce and a jump and his tongue came out, and
+his mouth foamed, and his eyes rolled, as with a jerk he ejaculated,
+"Napoleon! qu'est-ce que je pense de lui?" It was well for poor Napoleon
+that he was quiet and comfortable in St. Helena, for had he been at
+Hougoumont, I am perfectly convinced that my communicant would have sent
+him to moulder with his brethren in arms. Having vented his rage, I
+asked him if the French had ever got within the walls. "Yes," he said,
+"three times; but they were always repulsed"; he assured me he had been
+there during the attack and that he saw them within; but added, "How
+they came in at that door" (pointing to the gate by which we were
+standing and which was drilled with bullets), "or when they came in, or
+how or where they got out I cannot tell you, for what with the noise,
+and the fire, and the smoke, I scarcely knew where I was myself."
+
+[Illustration: LA BELLE ALLIANCE.
+
+_To face p. 267._]
+
+One of the farm servants begged me to observe the chapel, which he
+hinted had been indebted to a miracle for its safety, and certainly as a
+good Catholic he had a fair foundation for his belief, as the flames
+had merely burnt about a yard of the floor, having been checked, as he
+conceived, by the presence of the crucifix suspended over the door,
+which had received no other injury than the loss of part of its feet. He
+had remained there till morning, when, seeing the French advance and
+guessing their drift, he contrived to make good his escape, but returned
+the following day. What he then saw you may guess when I tell you that
+at the very door I stood upon a mound composed of earth and ashes upon
+which 800 bodies had been burnt. Every tree bore marks of death, and
+every ditch was one continued grave.
+
+From Hougoumont we walked to La Belle Alliance,[111] crossing the
+neutral ground between the armies; a few days ago a couple of gold
+watches had been found, and I daresay many a similar treasure yet
+remains. At La Belle Alliance, a squalid farm house, we rested to take
+some refreshment. For a few biscuits and a bottle of common wine the
+woman asked us five francs, which being paid, I followed her into the
+house. Not perceiving me at the door, she met her husband, and bursting
+into a loud laugh, with a fly-up of arms and legs (for nothing in this
+country is done without gesticulation), she exclaimed, "Only think! ces
+gens-là m'ont donné cinq francs." In this miserable pot-house did the
+possessor find 280 wounded wretches jammed together and weltering in
+blood when he returned on Monday morning. If I proceed to more
+particulars I foresee I should fill folios.
+
+I must carry you at once to La Haye Sainte.[112] It was along a hedge
+that the severest work took place; it made me shudder to think that upon
+a space of fifty square yards 4,000 bodies were found dead. The ditches
+and the field formed one great grave. The earth told in very visible
+terms what occasioned its elasticity; upon forcing a stick down and
+turning up a clod, human bodies in an offensive state of decay
+immediately presented themselves. I found four Belgian peasants
+commenting upon one figure which was scarcely interred, and on walking
+under the outer wall of La Haye Sainte a hole was tenanted by myriads of
+maggots feasting upon a corpse.
+
+Here stands the Wellington tree,[113] peppered with shot and stripped as
+high as a man can jump of its twigs and leaves, for every passenger
+jumps up for a relic. We stood upon the road where Buonaparte (defended
+by high banks) sent on, but _didn't_ lead, 6,000 of his old Imperial
+Guard. They charged along the road up to La Haye Sainte, dwindling as
+they went by the incessant fire of 80 pieces of Artillery, many of them
+within a few yards, till their number did not exceed 300. Then Napoleon
+turned round to Bertrand, lifted his hand, cried out, "C'est tout perdu,
+c'est tout fini," and galloped off with La Corte and Bertrand,[114]
+quitting most probably for ever a field of battle.
+
+A continued sheet of corn or fallowed fields occupy the whole plain. The
+crops are indifferent and the reason assigned is curious. The whole
+being trampled down last year, became the food of mice, which in
+consequence repaired thither from all quarters and increased and
+multiplied to such a degree that the soil is quite infested by them.
+
+Upon the heights where the British squares received the shock of the
+French Cavalry, we found an English officer's cocked hat, much injured
+apparently by a cannon shot, with its oilskin rotting away, and showing
+by its texture, shape, and quality that it had been manufactured by a
+fashionable hatter, and most probably graced the wearer's head in Bond
+Street and St. James's. Wherever we went we were surrounded by boys and
+beggars offering Eagles from Frenchmen's helmets, cockades, pistols,
+swords, cuirasses, and other fragments.
+
+At Brussels they gave the Belgian troops a dinner in a long, shady
+avenue, which was more than they deserved, and in the evening the Town
+was illuminated. In the Newspaper I daresay there will be a splendid
+account of it, but it was a wretched display in the proportion of one
+tallow candle to 50 windows stuck up to glimmer and go out without the
+slightest taste or regularity.
+
+From Brussels we started in a nice open Barouche Landau on Thursday, the
+20th. We again crossed the Field of Waterloo and proceeded towards
+Genappes, a road along which we jogged merrily and peaceably, but which
+had last year on this same day been one continued scene of carnage and
+confusion: Prussians cutting off French heads, arms and legs by
+hundreds; Englishmen in the rear going in chase, cheering the Prussians
+and urging them in pursuit; the French, exhausted with fatigue and
+vexation, making off in all directions with the utmost speed.
+
+At Genappes we changed horses in the very courtyard where Napoleon's
+carriage was taken ... and were shown the spot where the Brunswick
+Hussars cut down the French General as a retaliation for the life of the
+Duke. The Postmaster told us what he could, which was not much; the only
+curious part was that in his narrative he never called the Highland
+Regiments "Les Écossais," but "Les Sans Culottes." The setting sun found
+us all covered with dust, rather tired and very hungry, and driving up,
+with some misgivings from what we had heard and from what we saw, to our
+Inn at Charleroi. "This is an abominable-looking house," said Donald.
+"Oh, jump out before we drive in and ask what we can get to eat." "Well,
+Donald, what success?" we all cried like young birds upon the return of
+the old one to the gaping, craving mouths in their nest. "The Landlady
+says she has nothing at all in the house, but if you will come in thinks
+something may be killed which will suffice for supper." This was a bad
+prospect....
+
+[Illustration: WATERLOO.
+
+_To face p. 270._]
+
+We three went on in quest of better accommodation, and drove first to
+enquire at the Post House. The first question the Postmaster asked was,
+What could induce us to come to a place from which there was no exit? We
+told him we wished to go to Maubeuge. Had you seen his shoulders elevate
+themselves above his ears. "To Maubeuge! Why, it is utterly impossible."
+"Well, then," we said, "to Mons." "Le chemin est éxecrable." "To
+Phillippe ville." "Encore plus mauvais." As a proof of which he told us
+that a government courier had two days before insisted upon being
+forwarded thither, that they had sent him off at 2 in the morning, to
+insure him time before daylight, that at 9 in the morning he was brought
+back, having proceeded with the utmost difficulty 2 leagues, and then
+being deposited in a rut by the fracture of his carriage. After a great
+deal of pro and con it was agreed that with more horses and great
+caution and stock of patience the road to Mons should be attempted, and
+we were directed to "Le Grand Monarque," a good name for these times,
+applicable to Buonaparte or Louis XVIII.
+
+It was worth while to lose our way and encounter these unexpected
+difficulties for the amusement the landlady afforded us. We seemed
+almost at the end of the world. I am sure we felt so, for the people
+were so odd. Dinner she promised, and in half an hour proved by a
+procession of half a dozen capital dishes how wonderfully these people
+understand the art of cookery, in a place which in England would be
+considered upon a par with the "Eagle and Child."[115] We asked her
+about the road in hopes of hearing a more satisfactory account. With a
+nod and a shrug, and an enlargement of the mouth and projection of lip,
+she replied, "Messieurs, je ne voudrais pas être un oiseau de mauvais
+augure, mais, pour les chemins il faut avouer qu'ils sont effroyables."
+
+I will venture to say such a "oiseau" as our speaker has never before
+been seen or heard of by any naturalist or ornithologist. Her figure and
+cloak were both inimitable. She gave such a tragi-comic account of her
+sufferings last year, during the time of the retreat, and in 1814 when
+the Russians were there, that while she laughed with one eye and cried
+with the other, we were almost inclined to do the same. She had been
+pillaged by a French officer in a manner which surpassed any idea we
+could have formed of French oppression and barbarity. At one time the
+Cossacks caught her, and on some dispute about a horse, 4 of them took
+her each by an arm and leg and laying her upon her "Ventre" flat as a
+pancake, a fifth cracked his knout (whip) most fearfully over her head,
+and prepared himself to apply the said whip upon our poor landlady. By
+good fortune an officer rescued her from their clutches, but she
+shivered like a jelly when she described her feelings in her awkward
+position, like a boat upon the shore bottom upwards. Then she told us
+how her husband died of fright, or something very near it. Her account
+of him was capital, "Il étoit," said she, "un bon papa du temps passé,"
+by which perhaps you may imagine she was young and handsome. She was
+very old and as ugly as Hecate.
+
+Well, my sheet is at an end, and my hand quite knocked up. We did get to
+Mons, but the roads were "effroyable." At one moment (luckily we were
+not in it) the carriage stuck in the mud and paused. "Shall I go? or
+shall I not go?" Luckily it preferred the latter, and returned to its
+position on 4 wheels instead of 2.
+
+E. STANLEY.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+And now to return to what pleased me first: Bruges--where I first felt
+myself completely out of England. The buildings were so entirely unlike
+any I have seen before that I could have fancied myself rather walking
+amongst pictures than houses. The winding streets are so interesting
+when you do not know what new sight a new turn will present; especially
+when, as in this case, the new sight was so satisfactory every time.
+Ghent is a much finer town but not near so picturesque; but we were
+fortunate in falling in here with a fine Catholic procession. We went to
+the top of the Cathedral, and as we were coming down the great bell
+tolled and announced the procession had begun. We almost broke our necks
+in our hurry to get a peep, and we did arrive at a loop-hole in time to
+see the whole mass of priests and procession in slow motion down the
+great aisle and to hear their chant. It was very fine indeed, tho' to
+our heretical feelings the interest lies as much in the romantic
+associations connected with all the Roman Catholic ceremonies as in
+anything better. It is not in human nature not to feel more devotion in
+the imposing solemnity of such a church. The "Descents from the Cross"
+were just put up, and with the organ playing and mass going on, and the
+number of female figures with their black scarfs over their heads
+kneeling on chairs in different parts of the Cathedral, we saw them to
+greater advantage than surrounded by French bonnets and other pictures
+in the Louvre. They are quite different to any Rubens I ever saw before;
+the colouring so much deeper and the figures so superior.
+
+But no one should be allowed to enter that Cathedral without the black
+scarf, which makes a young face look pretty and an old one picturesque;
+and there were several common people gazing at the picture with as much
+admiration and adoration painted on their faces as there probably was
+on ours.
+
+[Illustration: _Church of St. Nicholas, Ghent June 16, 1816._
+
+_To face p. 274._]
+
+At Brussels there were more pictures from the Louvre, but the Brutes had
+packed up the Rubens without any covering or precaution whatever, and
+there they are with a hole thro' one, and the other covered with mildew
+and stains from rain and dirt. From Ghent we travelled in two cabriolets
+to Brussels, which were not quite so easy or pleasant as the Canal
+boats; but the accommodations as far as Brussels have been really
+_superbe_. I have longed for the papers or the carpets or the marble
+tables in every room we have been in; and I have learned to consider
+dinner as a matter of great curiosity and importance, and I cannot
+wonder that Englishmen are not proof against the temptations of living
+well and so cheap. Brussels is a nice place; there appear to be so many
+pleasant walks and rides in all directions. The country about is so
+pretty, and the town (with the exception of the steep hill which you
+must ascend to get to the best part of it) very cheerful and agreeable
+looking.... Every place swarms with English; we have met four times as
+many English carriages and travellers as we did on our road to London.
+
+Our weather has been very favourable. We had a cool day for walking
+about at Waterloo, and the next day a delightful bright sunshine to show
+off the Palace of Laeken to advantage. It is the place where Bonaparte
+intended to sleep on the 18th, and he fitted it up. It is three miles
+from Brussels, commanding a view of the whole country and surrounded by
+trees and pleasure-grounds in the English style. After looking at
+buildings and towns so much, it was an agreeable relief to admire shady
+walks and fine trees. We went to the Theatre, which was execrable, but
+at Ghent we were very much amused with some incomparable acting.
+
+We left Brussels yesterday morning in a Barouche and _three_, which is
+to take us to Paris. It holds us four in the inside and John on the box
+as nicely as we could wish and is perfectly easy. We suit each other as
+well in other respects as in the carriage. Donald is an excellent
+_compagnon de voyage_--full of liveliness, good humour, and curiosity,
+enjoying everything in the right way. He and Edward Leycester are my
+beaux, while E.S. does the business; which makes it much pleasanter to
+me than if I had only one gentleman with me. In short, we had not a
+difficulty till yesterday. We came by Waterloo again and picked up
+Lacoite to get what we could from him, and then to Charleroi, being told
+the road by Nivelles was impassable. The road to Charleroi was bad, and
+we did not arrive till 9, having had no eatable but biscuit and wine.
+Donald entered the hotel to enquire what we could have for dinner, and
+returned with the melancholy report that the woman had literally
+nothing, and did not know where any were to be procured, but that she
+would kill a hen and dress it if we liked! We sent Donald and Edward, as
+a forlorn hope, to see if there was another inn, and after a long
+search they found one, whereupon the postillion found out that he had
+no drag-chain and could not properly descend the _montagne._ However,
+after some arguments, and my descent from the carriage, and Donald and
+John walking on each side the wheels with large stones ready to place
+before them in case they were disposed to run too fast, we arrived at
+the Inn at the foot of the Hill, from which issued an old woman who
+might have sat for Gil Blas' or Caleb Williams' old woman. When she
+heard where we were going, she shook her head and said she did not like
+to be _un oiseau de mauvais augure_ but that the only road we could go
+was very nearly impassable. The people and the children in the street
+crowded round the carriage as if they had never seen one before, and, in
+short, we found that we had got into a _cul-de-sac._
+
+[Illustration: PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO.
+
+_To face page 278._]
+
+However, our adventures for the night finished by the old woman giving
+us so good a dinner and so many good stories of herself and the
+Cossacks, that we did not regret having been round, especially now when
+we are safely landed at Valenciennes without either carriage or bones
+broke--over certainly the very worst road I ever saw.
+
+We shall be at Paris on Monday or Tuesday, I think. Adieu.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Rianette Stanley._
+
+...Before leaving Brussels for ever, it is impossible not to speak about
+the dogs. What would you say, what would you think, and how would you
+laugh at some of these wondrous equipages. You meet them in all
+directions carrying every species of load. They were only surpassed by
+one vehicle we met on the road drawn by nine, and as luck would have it,
+just as we passed, the five leaders fell to fighting and ran their
+carriage over some high stones. Then the women within began to scream
+and the driver without began to whip, which caused an inevitable scene
+of bustle and perplexity....
+
+At Quiverain we passed the line of separation between France and Belgium
+and were subjected to a close inspection by the Custom House Officers,
+during which some Bandana handkerchiefs of Edward's were for a time in
+great jeopardy, but they were finally returned and "nous voilà" in "la
+belle France." The change was perceptible in more ways than one. Before
+we had travelled a mile we beheld a proof of this subjugated state in
+the person of a Cossack "en plein costume," with two narrow, horizontal
+eyes placed at the top of his forehead, bespeaking his Tartar origin.
+Upon a log of timber twenty more were sitting smoking. The Russian
+headquarters are at Maubeuge, but the Cossacks are scattered all over
+the frontier villages and are seen everywhere. We fell in with at least
+a hundred. They are very quiet and much liked by the people. The Duke of
+Wellington, when returning to Valenciennes a few days ago from Maubeuge,
+was escorted by a party of these gipsy guards.
+
+On approaching Valenciennes other tokens of conquest appeared. A
+clean-looking inn, with a smart garden in Islington style, presented
+itself, bearing a sign with an English name containing the additional
+intelligence that London Porter and Rum, Gin, and Brandy were all there,
+and to be had.
+
+Over many a window we saw a good John Bull board with "Spirituous
+Liquors Sold Here" inscribed thereon in broad British characters, unlike
+the "Spiritual Lickers" in the miserable letters upon the signboards at
+Ostend. As to Valenciennes, nothing was French but the houses and Inns.
+The visible population were red-coated soldiers, and it was impossible
+not to fancy that our journey was a dream, and that we had in fact
+re-opened our eyes in England.
+
+Of hornworks, demi-lunes, and ravelines I shall speak to your Papa when
+I fight my battle once again in the Armchair at the Park or at
+Winnington; enough for you to know that we all breakfasted with Sir
+Thomas Brisbane, a very superior man and a great astronomer, and tho'
+brave as a lion, seems to prefer looking at la Pleine lune in the
+heavens than the host of demi-lunes with which he is surrounded in his
+present quarters. At Cambray Sir George Scovell[116] had most kindly
+secured us lodgings at Sir Lowry Cole's[117] house, which we had all to
+ourselves, as the General was in England. Where the French people live
+it is not easy to guess, for all the best houses are taken by British
+Officers. They receive a billet which entitles them to certain rooms,
+and generally they induce the possessor to decamp altogether by giving
+him a small rent for the remainder. We found Colonel Egerton, who
+married a Miss Tomkinson, in the garrison. We dined with them and the
+Scovell, and were received with the utmost kindness and attention by
+all. Colonel Prince and Colonel Abercromby (you know both, I believe)
+also dined there two days we remained.
+
+On Sunday there was a Procession. The most curious circumstance was that
+a troop of British cavalry attended to clear the way and do the honours,
+for the National Guard had been disarmed three days before in
+consequence of an order from the Duke of Wellington (nobody knows why).
+They gave up their arms without a murmur; some few, I believe, expressed
+by a "Bah!" and a shrug of the shoulders that it was not quite agreeable
+to their feelings, but "voilà tout." "I say, Jack," said a Grenadier of
+the Guards to his Companion, by whom I was standing as the procession
+came out of the Church, "who is that fellow with a gold coat and
+gridiron?" "Why, that's St. Lawrence," and so it was.
+
+St. Lawrence led the way, followed by a brass St. Andrew as stiff as a
+poker and as much resembling St. Andrew as I conceive; but my companion
+the Grenadier thought differently, for he pronounced him to be a Chef
+d'œuvre. "Well now, Jack, that's quite natural." ...
+
+I must hurry you on to Compiègne, merely saying that we traversed a
+country fringed with immense forests in which wolves are born and live
+and die without much interruption, tho' we were told at one of the Inns
+that a peasant had, a day or two before, captured seven juvenile
+individuals of the species and carried them off uneaten by their
+disconsolate parents.
+
+Our chief reason for visiting Compiègne was that we might see a Palace
+fitted up for Marie Louise by Bonaparte in a style of splendour
+surpassing, in my opinion, any Palace I have seen in France.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+PARIS, _June 28, 1816_.
+
+And here I am--and what shall I tell you first? And how shall I find
+time to tell you anything in the wandering Arab kind of life we are
+leading? It is very new and very amusing and I enjoy it very much, but I
+enjoy still more the thoughts of how much I shall enjoy my own quiet
+home and children again when I get to them.
+
+We arrived on Tuesday evening, and in half an hour I was in the Palais
+Royal in the Café de Mille Colonnes, and at night the brilliancy of the
+Lamps and Mirrors, glittering in every direction in every alley,
+displayed this new scene to me in the newest colours; and it was very
+like walking in a new world....
+
+The Fêtes for the marriage of the Due de Berri are unfortunately all
+over. Except the entertainments at the Court itself, a French party is a
+thing unheard of, and the only gaieties have been English parties to
+which some few French come when they are invited. The only gentlemen's
+carriages I have seen in the streets are English, and as to French
+gentlemen or ladies, according to the most diligent enquiries by eyes
+and tongue, the race has almost disappeared....
+
+If you admire Buonaparte and despise the Bourbons in Cheshire, what
+would you in Paris? where the regular answer to everything you admire is
+that it was done by Buonaparte--to everything that you object to, that
+it is by order of the Bourbons. In the Library of the Hôpital des
+Invalides to-day, collected by order of Buonaparte for the use of the
+soldiers, there was a man pulling down all the books and stamping over
+the N's and eagles on the title-page with blue ink, which, if it did not
+make a plain L, at least blotted out the N; but I should apprehend that
+every one who saw the blot would think more of the vain endeavour of
+Louis to take his place than if the N had been left.
+
+...I have told you nothing about Valenciennes and how we breakfasted
+with two odd characters to come together in one, an Astronomer and a
+Soldier, viz., Sir Thomas Brisbane, who enlivens his quarters wherever
+he goes by erecting an observatory immediately, and studying hard as any
+Cambridge mathematician every hour that he is not on military duty. His
+officers seem to have partaken in some degree of the spirit of their
+General, and to have made use of their position at Valenciennes to make
+themselves perfectly acquainted with all Marlborough's campaign, and
+they appeared to have as much interest in tracing all his sieges and
+breaches and batteries as their General in making his observations on
+the sun and the stars.... The Scovells were delighted to see us at
+Cambray; put us into Sir Lowry Cole's quarters, where we had a house and
+gardens all to ourselves. Lord Wellington had been at Cambray a
+fortnight before, and was all affability, good humour, and gaiety....
+Sir Geo. Scovell gave many interesting details of his coolness,
+quickness, decision, and undaunted spirit.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Bella Stanley._
+
+PARIS, _July 9, 1816_.
+
+It is absolutely necessary that a word or two should be said upon the
+palace at Compiègne, which was fitted up about seven years ago by
+Napoleon for Marie Louise. Having seen most of his Imperial abodes, I am
+inclined to give the preference, as far as internal decoration extends,
+to Compiègne. Gold, silver, mirrors, tapestry all hold their court
+here. The bath is a perfect specimen of French luxury and magnificence.
+It fills a recess in a moderately-sized room almost entirely panelled
+with the finest sheets of plate glass; and the ball room is so
+exquisitely beautiful that to see its golden walls and ceilings lighted
+up with splendid chandeliers, and its floors graced with dancers, plumed
+and jewelled, I would take the trouble of attending as your Chaperon
+from Alderley whenever the Bourbons send you an invitation.
+
+The gardens are like all other French pleasure grounds, formal and
+comfortless, but there is one part you would all enjoy. When Buonaparte
+first carried Marie Louise to Compiègne she expressed much satisfaction,
+but remarked that it was deficient in a Berceau; it could not stand in
+competition with her favourite palace of Schönbrunn. Now, a berceau is a
+wide walk covered with trellis work and flowers. She left Compiègne. In
+six weeks Napoleon begged her to pay another visit. She did so, and
+found a berceau wide enough for two carriages to go abreast and above
+two miles in length, extending from the gardens to the forest of
+Compiègne, completely finished. May you all be espoused to husbands who
+will execute all your whims and fancies with equal rapidity and good
+taste! In your berceau I will walk; but if you are destined to reside in
+golden palaces, you must expect little of Uncle's company.
+
+Having travelled thus far, attend us to Paris and imagine yourself
+seated in a velvet chair in the Hotel de Bretagne, Rue de Richelieu,
+that is to say, when translated into London terms, conceive yourself
+seated in one of the Hotels in or near Covent Gardens, close to Theatre
+and shops and all that a stranger wishes to be near for a week when the
+sole purpose of his visit is seeing and hearing. We are within 20 yards
+(but if measured by the mud and filth to be traversed in the march I
+should call it a mile) of the Palais Royal, the fairy land of Paris, and
+Paradise of vice, and the centre of attraction to every stranger. Here
+we breakfast in Coffee-houses, of which no idea can be formed by those
+who only associate the name of Coffee-house with certain subdivided,
+gloomy apartments in England, where steaks and _Morning Chronicles_
+reign with divided sway, and where the silence is seldom interrupted but
+by queries as to the price of stocks or "Here, Waiter, another bottle of
+Port."
+
+We dine at Restaurateurs, choosing unknown dishes out of five
+closely-printed columns of _fricandeaus_ and _à la financières_.
+
+Before I proceed let me inform you of some simple matters of fact which
+I may forget if delayed. Such as that we found the Sothebys and Murrays,
+and Leghs of High Legh, and Wilbraham of Delamere Lodge. With the former
+we have made several joint excursions and contrived to meet at dinner.
+Mr. Sotheby is in his element, bustles everywhere, looks the vignette of
+happiness, exclaims "Good!" upon all occasions, from the arrangement of
+the Skulls in the Catacombs to the dressing of a _vol au vent_. In
+short, they are all as delighted as myself, and that is saying a good
+deal.
+
+Pardon this digression. Again to the point--to Paris. Where shall I
+begin? Let us take the theatres. We saw Talma last night, and the
+impression is strong, therefore he shall appear first on the list.
+
+The play was "Manlius," a tragedy in many respects like our "Venice
+Preserved." The House was crowded to excess, especially the pit, which,
+as in England, is the focus of criticisms and vent for public opinion.
+
+When a Tragedy is acted no Music whatever is allowed, not a fiddle
+prefaced the performance; but at seven o'clock the curtain slowly rose,
+and amidst the thunder of applause, succeeded by a breathless silence,
+Talma stepped forth in the Roman toga of Manlius. His figure is bad,
+short, and rather clumsy, his countenance deficient in dignity and
+natural expression, but with all these deductions he shines like a
+meteor when compared with Kemble. He is body and soul, finger and thumb,
+head and foot, involved in his character; and so, say you, is Miss
+O'Neil, but Talma and Miss O'Neil are different and distant as the
+poles. She is nature, he is art, but it is the perfection of art, and so
+splendid a specimen well deserves the approbation he so profusely
+receives.
+
+The curtain is not let down between the acts, and the interval does not
+exceed two or three minutes, so that your attention is never
+interrupted. The scene closed as it commenced--with that peculiar hurra
+of the French, expressive of their highest excitement. It is the same
+with which they make their charge in battle, and proportioned to numbers
+it could not have been more vehement at the victories of Austerlitz and
+Jena than it was on the reappearance of Talma; and not satisfied with
+this, they insisted on his coming forth again. At length, amidst hurras
+and cries of "Talma! Talma!" the curtain was closed up, and my last
+impression rendered unfavourable by a vulgar, graceless figure in
+nankeen breeches and top-boots hurrying in from a side scene, dropping a
+swing bow in the centre of the stage, and then hurrying out again.
+
+Theatres are to Frenchmen what flowers are to bees: they live _in_ them
+and _upon_ them, and the sacrifice of liberty appears to be a tribute
+most willingly paid for the gratification they receive; for, to be sure,
+never can there exist a more despotic, arbitrary government than that of
+a French theatre. A soldier stands by from the moment you quit your
+carriage till you get into it; you are allowed no will of your own; if
+you wish to give directions to your servant, "Vite! Vite!" cries a
+whiskered sentry. Are you looking through the windows of the lobbies
+into the boxes for your party, you are ordered off by a gendarme. I saw
+one gentleman-like-looking man remonstrating; in a trice he was in
+durance vile. A Frenchman at his play must sit, stand, move, think, and
+speak as if he were on drill, and yet he endures the intolerance for
+doubtful benefits derived from this rigid regularity.
+
+In this play of "Manlius" were many passages highly applicable to
+Buonaparte, and Talma, who is supposed to be (_avec raison_) a secret
+partisan, gave them their full effect, but the listening vassals struck
+no octaves to his vibration. A few nights before we were at the Play in
+which were allusions to the Bourbons, and couplets without end of the
+most fulsome, disgusting compliments to the Duc de Berri, &c. These
+(shame upon the trifling, vacillating, mutable crew!) were received with
+loud applause by the majority of the pit. I did observe, however, that
+in that pit did sit a frowning, solemn, silent nucleus, but a nucleus of
+this description can never be large; a few Messieurs at 3 francs _par
+jour_ would soon, when dispersed amongst them, like grains of pepper in
+tasteless soup, diffuse a tone of palatibility over the whole and render
+it more agreeable to the taste of a Bourbon.
+
+_À propos_, we have seen the Bourbons. The King is a round, fat man, so
+fat that in their pictures they dare not give him the proper "_contour_"
+lest the police should suspect them of wishing to ridicule; but his face
+is mild and benevolent, and I verily believe his face to be a just
+reflection of his heart. Then comes Monsieur,[118] a man with more
+expression, but I did not see enough to form any opinion of my own, and
+I never heard any very decisive account from any one else. Then comes
+the Duchesse d'Angoulême.[119] There is no milk and water there. What
+she really is I may not be able to detect, but I will forfeit my little
+finger if there is not something passing strange within her. She is
+called a Bigot and a Devotee; she has seen and felt enough, and more
+than enough, to make a stronger mind than hers either the one or the
+other, and I will excuse her if she is both. She is thin and genteel,
+grave and dignified; she puts her fan to her underlip as Napoleon would
+put his finger to his forehead, or his hand into his bosom. She stood
+up, she sat down, she knelt, when others stood or sat or knelt, but I
+question whether if she had been alone she would have done all according
+to bell and candle, rule or regulation.
+
+Then comes the Duchesse de Berri,[120] a young, pretty thing, a sort of
+royal kitten; and then comes her husband, the Duc de Berri, a short,
+vulgar-looking, anything but a kitten he is--but _arrête toi_. I am in
+the land of vigilance, and already my pen trembles, for there are
+gendarmes in abundance in the streets, and Messieurs Bruce and Co. in La
+Force, and I do not wish to join their party. In England I may abuse our
+Prince Regent and call him fat, dissipated, and extravagant, but in
+France I dare not say "BO to a goose!" So, Je vous salue, M. le Duc de
+Berri.
+
+_À propos_ of the police. At the marriage of the above much honoured and
+respected Duc the illumiations were general. Murray's landlord was
+setting out his tallow candles, when Murray, guessing from certain
+innuendoes and shrugs (for before us English they are not much afraid of
+shrugging the shoulders or inventing an occasional "Bah!") that he would
+have been to the full as pleased if he had been lighting his candles
+upon the return of Napoleon, asked him, "Mais pourquoi faites vous cela?
+I suppose you may do as you like?" "Comment donc!" replied the
+astonished Frenchman; "do as I like! If I did not light my candles with
+all diligence, I should be called upon to-morrow by the police to pay a
+forfeit for not rejoicing."
+
+With all this I think on the whole the Bourbons are popular; people are
+accustomed to being bullied out of their opinions and use of their
+tongues, and they are so sick of war, with all its inconveniences and
+privations, that they begin to prefer inglorious repose. English money
+is very much approved of here, but if it could be procured without the
+personal attendance of the owners, I feel quite confident the French
+would prefer it.
+
+We are not popular. I suppose the sight of us must be grating to the
+feelings. We are like a blight on an apple-tree; we curl up their
+leaves, and they writhe under our pressure.
+
+The constant song of our drunken soldiers on the Boulevards commenced
+with--
+
+    "Louis Dixhuite, Louis dixhuite,
+     We have licked all your armies and sunk all your fleet."
+
+Luckily the words are not intelligible to the gaping Parisians, who
+generally, upon hearing the "Louis Dixhuite," took for granted the song
+was an ode in honour of the Bourbons, and grinned approbation. It is
+quite ridiculous, Paris cannot know itself. Where are the French?
+Nowhere. All is English; English carriages fill the streets, no other
+genteel Equipages are to be seen. At the Play Boxes are all English. At
+the Hotels, Restaurations--in short, everywhere--John Bull stalks
+incorporate. I see an Englishman with his little red book, the Paris
+guide, in one hand and map in the other, with a parcel of ragged boys at
+his heels pestering him for money. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who am ready
+to hold your stick. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who will call your coach.
+
+About the Thuilleries, indeed, and here and there, a few "bien poudréd"
+little old men, "des bons Papas du Temps passé," may be seen dry as
+Mummies and as shrivelled, with their ribbons and Croix St. Louis,
+tottering about. They are good, staunch Bourbons, ready, I daresay, to
+take the field "en voiture" for once, when taunted by the Imperial
+officers for being too old and decrepid to lead troops; an honest
+emigrant Marquis replied that he did not see why he should not command a
+regiment and lead it on "dans son Cabriolet."
+
+We have been unfortunate in not arriving soon enough to be present at
+the Duke of Wellington's Balls. At the last a curious circumstance took
+place. (You may rely upon it's being true.) Word was brought to him
+that the house was in danger from fire. He went down, and in a sort of
+subterranean room some cartridges were discovered close to a lamp
+containing a great quantity of oil, and it was evident they had been
+placed there with design. The first report was that barrels of gunpowder
+had been found, and strange associations were whispered as to Guy Fawkes
+and Louis XVIII. being one and the same; but the powder was not
+sufficient to do any great mischief, and the general idea is that had it
+exploded, confusion would have ensued, the company would have been
+alarmed, the ladies would have screamed and fled to the door and street,
+where parties were in full readiness and expectations of Diamonds,
+&c....
+
+We stay over Monday, for there is a grand Review on the Boulevards. We
+have seen Cuirassiers and Lancers shining in the sun and fluttering
+their little banner in the air. The Bourbons, who are determined to root
+out every vestige of the past, are now stripping the Troops of the
+Uniform which remind the wearers of battles fought and cities won, and
+re-clothing them in the white dress of the "ancien Régime," which is
+wretchedly ugly. They know best what they are about, and they certainly
+have a people to deal with unlike the rest of the world, but were I a
+Bourbon, I should be cautious how I proceeded in demolishing everything
+which reminded the people of their recent glory. Luckily the column on
+the Place Vendôme has as yet escaped the Goths, and its bronze basso
+reliefs are still the pride of Paris.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley._
+
+_July 13, 1816._
+
+Days in Paris are like lumps of barley sugar, sweet to the taste and
+melting rapidly away.... We have now seen theatres, shows, gardens,
+museums, palaces, and prisons. Aye, Louisa, we have been immured within
+the walls of La Force, and that from inclination! not necessity.
+
+We procured an order to see Bruce,[121] and after some shuttlecock sort
+of work, sending and being sent from office to office and Préfet to
+Préfet, at length we received our order of admission.
+
+In this order our persons are described; the man put me down "sourcils
+gris." "Mais, Monsieur," said I, "they will never admit me with that
+account." He looked at me again, "Ah! vos cheveux sont gris, mais pour
+les sourcils, non pas, vous avez raison," and altering them to "noirs,"
+he sent me about my business.
+
+Bar and bolt were opened, and at length we found ourselves in the
+presence of these popular prisoners--Popular, at least, amongst the
+female part of the world. I have reason to believe that a few of the
+Miss Stanleys had formed a romantic attachment for Michael Bruce, and
+there are few of our adventures which would, I think, have given you
+more pleasure than this visit. Your heart would have been torn from its
+little resting-place and been imprisoned for ever. Michael Bruce! such
+an eye! such a figure! such a countenance! such a voice! and so much
+sense and elegance of manner, and then so interesting! There he sat in a
+small, wretched room, dirty and felonious, with two little windows, one
+looking into a court where a parcel of ragged prisoners were playing at
+fives, the other into a sort of garden where others were loitering away
+their listless vacuity of time.
+
+I will not tell you what he said, for it would but inflame a wound which
+I cannot heal, and because part of his conversation was secret, _i.e._,
+of a very interesting and curious nature which I cannot write and must
+not speak of. "Oh! dear Uncle, why won't you tell? a secret from Michael
+Bruce in the prison of La Force!"
+
+No, Louisa, I dare not speak of it to the winds. Captain Hutchinson was
+his companion, Sir Robert Wilson is in another room. The Captain has
+nothing very interesting in his manner or appearance. He is very plain,
+very positive, and very angry. Well he may be. So would you if, like
+him, you had been immured in a room about eight feet by twelve, in which
+you were forced to eat, sleep, and reside for three months. Their
+penance closes on the 24th, when Michael Bruce returns to London. I
+hope you are not going there this year.
+
+From such a subject as Michael Bruce it will not do to descend to any of
+the trifling fopperies of Paris.
+
+Let me, then, give you a short account of our visit to Fountain
+Elephant, which if ever finished, with its concomitant streets, &c.,
+will be an 8th wonder of the world. Its History is this: On the Site of
+the Bastille (of which not a vestige remains) Buonaparte thought he
+would erect a fountain, and looking at the Plans of Paris, he conceived
+the splendid idea of knocking down all the houses between the
+Thuilleries and this Fountain and forming one wide, straight street, so
+that from the Palace of the Thuilleries he might see whatever object he
+might be pleased to place at the extremity. This street is actually
+begun; when executed, which it never will be, there will be an avenue,
+partly houses, partly trees, from Barrière d'Étoile to the Fountain, at
+least six miles. Having got this Fountain in his head, he sent for De
+Non,[122] who superintended all his works, and said, "De Non, I must
+have a fountain, and the fountain shall be a beast." So De Non set his
+wits to work, and talked of Lions and Tigers, &c., when Buonaparte
+fixed upon an Elephant, with a Castle upon his back, and an Elephant
+there is. At present they have merely a model of plaister upon which the
+bronze coating is to be wrought, for the whole is to be in bronze with
+gilt trappings. He is to stand upon an elevated pedestal, which is
+already completed. The height will be about 60 feet, nearly as high as
+Alderley Steeple. The castle will hold water; the inside is to be a
+room, and the staircase is to be in one of the legs. The porter who
+showed it was exceedingly proud of the performance, and when I expressed
+my astonishment at Buonaparte's numerous plans and the difficulty he
+must have been at to procure money, looking cautiously about him, he
+said, "Oh, mais il avoit le don d'un Dieu," and then grasping my arm
+with one hand and tapping me on the shoulder with the other, and again
+looking round to see if then the coast was clear, he added, "Mais il n'y
+est plus, ah, vous comprenez cela n'est-ce pas," and then casting a look
+at his Elephant he concluded with a sigh and a mutter, "Superbe, ah,
+pardi, que c'est superbe!"
+
+Kitty has been dressing herself _à la Française_, and we have been
+purchasing a large box of flowers, which we hope to show you in England,
+if the Custom House officers will allow us to pay the duties, but we
+hear most alarming accounts of their ferocity and rapacity. They will
+soon, it is said, seize the very clothes you have on, if of French
+manufacture; if so, adieu to three pairs of black silk stockings and as
+many pocket handkerchiefs, to say nothing of a perfect pet of an ivory
+dog which I intend to present to your Mama, and to say nothing of five
+perfect pets for Maria and you four eldest girls of the family of
+Harlequin and Punch, to be worn on your necklaces during the happy
+weeks. They are of mother of pearl about an inch high, the most comical
+fellows I ever beheld. It is necessary that I should tell you of the
+presents, because if they are seized, you know I shall still be entitled
+to the merit of selecting them. We have bought a few books. A thick
+octavo is here worth about four or five shillings, and the duty is, we
+understand, about one shilling more. One is a life of the Duke of
+Marlborough. Buonaparte said it was a reflection upon England not to
+have a life of her greatest Hero, and therefore he would be his
+biographer; accordingly he set his men to work and collected the
+materials. Report speaks favourably of it, but I have been so busied in
+looking and walking about that I shall not be surprised if I find that I
+have almost forgotten to read upon my return!
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley._
+
+TUESDAY MORNING, _July 13th_.
+
+We are in Paris still, and do not depart till to-morrow, dedicating this
+day in company with the Murrays to St. Denis and Malmaison, and then I
+think we shall have seen everything worth seeing in or near this queer
+metropolis. One day last week we went to our old friend, L'abbé
+Sicard,[123] and attended a lecture in which about 20 of his young
+scholars exhibited their powers. The poor Abbé was, as usual, dreadfully
+prolix, and occupied an hour in words which might have been condensed
+within the compass of a Minute, and poor Massuer yawned and shut his
+eyes ever and anon. Clair was not there, and as we were under the
+necessity of going away before the Lecture was closed, we could not
+renew our acquaintance. Since last year he has taught his pupils to
+speak, and two dumb boys talked to each other with great success. I will
+show you the mode when we meet, but as you are not dumb it will be a
+mere gratification of Curiosity. Our Assignation which called us from
+the Lecture was to meet the Sothebys and Murrays and many others at the
+Buvin d'Enfer, near which is the descent to the Catacombs, where upwards
+of 3 million of Skulls are arranged in tasty grimaces thro' Streets of
+Bones, but my Sketch Book has long given an idea of these ossifatory
+Exhibitions. Only think, a cousin of Donald's and a very great friend of
+mine, a Capt. McDonald, whom you would all be in love with, he is so
+handsome and interesting, was shut up there a short time ago by
+accident, and if the Keeper had not luckily recollected the number of
+persons who descended and discovered one was missing, he would very soon
+have joined the bone party. There is another Cimetière called that of
+Père la Chaise, of a very different description, and infinitely more
+interesting. It is the grand burial-place of Paris; all who choose may
+purchase little plots of ground, from a square foot to an acre, for the
+deposition of themselves and their families. Its extent is about 84
+French acres, and upon no spot in the world is the French character so
+perfectly portrayed. Each individual encloses his plot and ornaments it
+as he chooses, and the variety is quite astonishing. It appears like a
+large Shop full of toys, work-baskets, Columns, little Cottages,
+pyramids, mounts--in short, what is there in the form of a Monument
+which may not there be found? A pert little Column with a fanciful top,
+crowned by a smart wire basket filled with roses, marked the grave, I
+concluded, of some beautiful young girl of 15 or 16. Lo and behold! it
+was placed there to commemorate "un ancien Magistrat de France," aged
+62. The most interesting are Ney's and Labédoyère's,[124] the former, a
+solid tomb of marble, simply tells that Marshal Ney, Prince of La
+Moskowa, is below. Both were rather profusely decorated with wreaths of
+flowers, it being the custom for the friends of the deceased to strew
+from time to time the graves with flowers, or decorate them with
+garlands. Soldiers have been often seen weeping over these graves, and
+it is by them these wreaths were placed. Ney's had just received its
+tribute of a beautiful garland of blue cornflowers: and the other a
+Chaplet of Honeysuckle. By both graves were weeping willows. Mr.
+Sotheby's friend, the poet Delille,[125] sleeps beneath a cumbrous mass
+of marble, within which his wife immerses herself once a week, to
+manifest sorrow for one whose incessant tormentor I am told she was
+during his life. The inscriptions were for the most part commonplace. I
+copied out a few of the best. I was sorry to observe not one in 20 had
+the slightest allusion to Religion. There was one offering which
+particularly attracted my attention and admiration. Over a simple mound,
+the resting-place of a little child, were scattered white flowers, and
+amongst them a bunch of cherries, evidently the tribute from some other
+little child who had thus offered up that which to him appeared most
+valuable. The exclusion of the selfish principle in this display of
+sentiment and feeling quite delighted me.
+
+[Illustration: PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS.
+
+_To face page 300._]
+
+The day after we visited the Louvre it was closed, and none have been
+admitted since. I believe they are scratching out some N's or Eagles. I
+should conceive these to be the last of their species, for the activity
+and extent of this effacement of emblems related to Napoleon is past all
+belief. In a picture of Boulogne in the Luxembourg, amongst the figures
+in the foreground was a little Buonaparte, about two inches high,
+reviewing some troops. They have actually changed his features and
+figure, and, if I recollect rightly, altered his cockade and Uniform....
+In the Musée des Arts and Métiers are some models of ships; even these
+were obliged to strike their Lilliputian tri-colours and hoist the white
+Ensign. And now Paris, fare thee well.... Thou art a mixture of strange
+ingredients. "Oh," said the Hairdresser who was cutting Kitty's hair
+yesterday, "had we your National spirit we should be a great people,
+mais c'est l'Égoisme qui regne à Paris." Their manner is quite
+fascinating, so civil, so polished. The people are like the Town, and
+the Town is like a Frenchman's Chemise, a magnificent frill with fine
+lace and Embroidery, but the rest ragged. The frill of the Thuilleries
+and Champs Elysées are perfect fairylands, the streets all that is
+execrable. No wonder the cleaners of boots and shoes are in a state of
+perpetual requisition. In one shop I saw elevated benches, on which sat
+many gentry with their feet upon a level with the cleaners' noses, where
+they sat like Statues, and I was actually induced to go back to satisfy
+myself that they were real men. English notices are frequent in the
+streets, some not over correct in style; for example, over a
+Hairdresser's in the Palais Royal--"The Cabinet for the cut of the
+hairs."
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+ST. GERMAIN, _July 16, 1816_.
+
+Surely you must have forgot what it is to be divided by land and sea
+from what you love, or when you were abroad you left nobody behind whom
+you cared about, or you would not fancy that I should not find time or
+inclination to read as many trifles as you can find to send, or that
+they should not give me almost as much pleasure, and be read with as
+much interest, as if I were shut up in the next dungeon to Mr. Bruce at
+La Force.... While you were enjoying the view of Beeston Castle, we were
+eating strawberries and cream under the trees in the Jardin des Plantes
+on the only hot day we have had.... I am in no danger of forgetting you,
+and if I have not written oftener, it has only been because Edward got
+the start of me in beginning to write in detail, and he is so inimitable
+in description that I could not go over the same ground with him.... I
+do wish I could give you one of our day's amusement, and jump you over
+here in mind and body to leave all your cares behind you....
+
+At last we have bid goodbye to Paris, but every day seemed to bring
+something fresh to see, and we stayed two or three days longer than we
+intended yesterday to see St. Denis. It is not so fine as most of the
+churches we saw in Holland, but the historical interest is so great and
+so curious that I would not have missed seeing it for the world. Over
+the door all the guillotined figures of the Revolution; in the church
+the repairs which were begun by Buonaparte, now finishing by Louis;
+every stone and step you go marked by some association of one or other
+of these periods. As Buonaparte's own power increased, his respect for
+crowned heads and authorities increased, I suppose, and so he had put up
+_Fleurs de Lys_ himself for the Bourbons in one part of the church, and
+he had prepared a vault for himself, decorated above with bees and
+statues of the six Kings of France who had the title of Emperor. To this
+vault he had made two bronze doors with gold ornaments and gold lions'
+heads, one of which flew back with a spring, and discovered three
+keyholes, to which there were three golden keys. The Sacristy he filled
+with chef d'œuvres of the best French artists, representing those parts
+of the History of France connected with St. Denis and with his own views
+of Empire.
+
+The beautiful white marble steps leading to the altar beneath which the
+seventh Emperor was to be laid were just finished when Louis XVIII. came
+to fill the tomb, which was just prepared, with the bones of Louis XVI.,
+to depose the Emperor, to complete the marble pavement, and to extend
+the _fleurs de lys_ over the whole church.
+
+And upon the stone which now conceals the entrance to the vault the
+Duchesse d'Angoulême always kneels at the grave of her father, for the
+fine bronze doors are deposed also, only, I believe, because they were
+placed there by Buonaparte, and now they have to get into the Vault by
+taking up the stone. We got into the carriage full of Buonaparte,
+returned to Paris, and then got out again with the Murrays at Malmaison.
+It is the only enviable French house I have seen, and deserves
+everything Edward said about it, even without the statues and half the
+pictures which are taken away.
+
+We spent three or four hours in the Thuilleries Gardens on Sunday.
+Buonaparte must have thought of gilding the dome of the Invalides when
+he was walking in the Jardin des Thuilleries, it suits the whole thing
+so exactly. A French crowd is so gay with the women's shawls and flowers
+that they assimilate well with the real flowers, and are almost as great
+an ornament to the Garden. A shower came on just as we were standing
+near the Palace, and at that moment the guards took their posts as a
+signal the King was going to Mass, so Edward and I followed the crowd to
+the Salle des Maréchaux (they would not admit Donald because he had
+gaiters, and Edward had luckily trowsers), and there we saw Louis XVIII.
+and the Duchesse d'Angoulême and Monsieur much better than we had done
+the Sunday before, with all the trouble of getting a ticket for
+admission into the Chapel, and being squeezed to death into the bargain.
+His Majesty is more like a Turtle than anything else, and shows external
+evidence of his great affection for Turtle soup. His walk is quite
+curious. One of his most intimate friends says that in spite of his
+devotion _Le Roi est un peu philosophe_. We staid on Monday to see a
+review. Donald introduced us to a Mr. and Mrs. Boyd, who have lived in
+France the last 14 years, and have a terrace that overlooks the
+Boulevards, so there we sat very commodiously and saw the King and the
+Duchesses de Berri and Angoulême, in an open Calèche, pass through the
+double row of troops which lined the Boulevards from one end to the
+other, and a beautiful sight it was. Mr. Boyd invited me to a party at
+his house in the country, and in the hopes of seeing that _rara avis_, a
+French lady or gentleman, I said yes. So I sent for a hairdresser, who
+came post haste, and amused me with his _politesse_, and Edward with his
+_politique_. I was quite sorry I could not have him again.
+
+We dined with the Murrays, and then went on to Mr. Boyd, where I found
+myself the only lady there dressed amongst about forty. That is to say,
+their heads and tails were all in morning costume and mine in
+evening....
+
+I must go back one more day, and tell you how I went to be described for
+a passport to La Force on Saturday, and how I thought Mr. Bruce more of
+a hero young man than any I have ever seen. I recollect seeing him
+before, and thinking him a coxcomb, but a few years have mellowed all
+that into a very fine young man.
+
+Making every allowance for seeing him in his dungeon in La Force, I
+think you would be delighted with his countenance. He spoke his
+sentiments with manly freedom, and yet with the liberality of one who
+thinks it possible a man may differ from him without being a fool, or a
+rascal. Lucy and Louisa would certainly have fallen in love with his
+fine Roman head, which his prison costume of a great coat and no
+neckcloth showed to great advantage.
+
+And now, adieu Paris! At 2 o'clock on Wednesday a green coach, which
+none of you could see without ten minutes' laughing at least--three
+horses and a postillion! (what would I give just to drive up to
+Winnington with the whole equipage!)--carried us to Versailles, and
+there I longed for Louis XIV. as much as for Buonaparte at St. Cloud;
+for one cannot fancy any one living in those rooms or walking in those
+gardens without hoops and Henri quatre plumes. If one could but people
+them properly for a couple of hours, what a delightful recollection it
+would be! Versailles ought to be seen last. It is so magnificent that
+every other thing of the sort is quite lost in the comparison. I am glad
+I saw Paris and the Tuilleries and St. Cloud first. We saw the Palace,
+and then we dined, and then we set out for the Trianon, and then we met
+with a guide who entertained us so much as to put Louis XIV. and all his
+court out of my head. Buonaparte never went to Versailles but once to
+look at it, but at the Trianon he and Joséphine lived, and it is
+impossible, in seeing those places, not to feel the principal interest
+to be in the inquiry--where he lived? where he sat? where he walked?
+where he slept?--so accordingly we asked our guide. "Monsieur, je ne
+connais point ce coquin là" soon told us what we were to expect from
+him, but his silence and his loyalty, and the combat between his hatred
+of the English and his hatred of Buonaparte was so amusing that we
+soon forgave him for not telling us anything about him. He said "Bony"
+was only "fit to be hanged." "Why did you not hang him, then?" He could
+only shrug his shoulders. "We should have hung him for you if he had
+come to England." "Ma foi! Monsieur, je crois que non." He told us the
+stories of the rooms and the pictures with all the vivacity and rapidity
+of a Frenchman, and with pretty little turns of wit.... Donald asked him
+if a cabinet in one of the rooms had not been given by the Empress of
+Russia to Buonaparte? He instantly seized him by the button with an air
+of triumph. "Tenez, Monsieur, quand l'Empereur de Russie était ici, il a
+vu ce Cabinet et a dit; otez cette Volaille là" (pointing to the
+compartment in which the Imperial Eagles had been changed into Angels).
+"Je l'ai donné aux Français, et lui--il n'était pas Français."
+
+[Illustration: The Great Green Coach.
+
+_To face p. 306._]
+
+In all the royal house the servants are equally impenetrable on the
+subject of Buonaparte. But sometimes it seems put on, sometimes they
+really do not know from having been only lately put there, but this man
+was a genuine Bourbonist and a genuine Frenchman.
+
+We just got to St. Germain in time to walk on the Terrace before evening
+closed in over the beautiful view. The Palace and the Town put me quite
+in mind of the deserted court in the "Arabian Nights." ...
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Nieces. Tuesday morning._
+
+I could fill another letter with the interesting things we saw yesterday
+at St. Denis and Malmaison, but we are off in an hour, and it is
+possible you may hear no more from these
+
+HAPPY TRAVELLERS.
+
+[Illustration: ALDERLEY RECTORY.]
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+Abbeville, Louis XVIII. at, 244
+
+Abercromby, Colonel, 280
+
+Aisne, river, 145-161
+
+Aix la Chapelle, 146, 183, 191, 194, 205
+
+_Albania_, ship at Antwerp, 203
+
+Albinus, German anatomist, 232
+
+Alderley, 10, 12, 15, 16, 17-21, 24, 68, 74, 75, 96, 120, 236, 249, 283,
+296
+
+Alderley Church, 102
+
+Alderley Edge, 16
+
+Alderley Park, 14
+
+Alderley Rectory, 15-17
+
+Alessandria, Plain of Marengo, 49
+
+Alexander I., Emperor of Russia, 76, 82-85, 93, 133, 177, 178, 222, 229,
+237, 244, 245
+
+Algeciras Bay, 53
+
+Alhama, Spain, 58, 63
+
+Alhambra, The, 59, 61, 63, 64
+
+Alien Office, The, 82
+
+Alkmaar, 205
+
+"Allemagne," By Madame de Staël, 128
+
+Allied Sovereigns, 82, 95, 152
+
+Allies, 105, 115, 116, 126, 156, 160-162, 168, 196, 197, 236, 237, 242
+
+Alps, 57
+
+Ambassador, English, Sir Charles Stuart, 112
+
+Ambassador, Swedish, M. de Staël, 132
+
+Ambolle, Baron d', at Fontainebleau, 153
+
+_Ambuscade_, picture of capture of the frigate, 136
+
+Amiens, Peace of, 25, 73
+
+Amsterdam, 211, 222-224, 226
+
+Andernach on the Rhine, 187
+
+Angerstein Collection, 113
+
+Anglesey Society, 10
+
+Anglesey, Lord, his leg buried at Waterloo, 261
+
+Angoulême, Duchesse d', 289
+
+Antiquiera, Spain, 60, 64
+
+Antwerp, 199, 204, 206, 208, 209, 210, 233, 253
+
+Antwerp Gate, Bergen op Zoom, 214, 217
+
+Apreece, Mrs., afterwards Lady Davey, 81
+
+_Argonauta_, Spanish vessel, 51, 53, 56
+
+Ashbourne, 248
+
+Augereau, General, 238
+
+Austerlitz, 138, 269, 287
+
+Austria, 179, 181
+
+Austria, Emperor of, 135, 237
+
+
+Bacharach on the Rhine, 172, 184, 185
+
+Banks, Sir Joseph, 93
+
+Barcelona, 50, 52, 54, 55, 60, 69, 70
+
+Barclay de Tolly, 116
+
+Baring, Major, 268
+
+Barthélemy, 237
+
+Bastille, 295
+
+Batavia, 193
+
+Beauharnais, Eugène, Viceroy of Italy, 132, 134
+
+Bees, Napoleon's, 150
+
+Beeston Castle, 301
+
+Belleville, 115, 116, 117
+
+Belluno, Duc du, _see_ Victor
+
+Benedictines, head cook to convent of, 41
+
+Beresford, Viscount, Marshal, 74
+
+Bergen op Zoom, 199, 208-212
+
+Berghem, Dutch painter (1624-1683), 201
+
+Berri, Duc de, 139, 140, 152, 282, 289
+
+Berri, Duchesse de, 289, 305
+
+Berry au Bac, 145, 163, 164
+
+Berthier, Marshal, Prince de Wagram, 138, 149
+
+Bertrand, General, 269
+
+Bessborough, Earl of, 86
+
+Bessières, Marshal, Duc d'Istria, 137
+
+Beveland, South, 210
+
+Bidwell, 122
+
+Bingen on the Rhine, 183
+
+"Birds, Familiar History of," by Bishop Stanley, 17
+
+_Bittern_, H.M.S., 67
+
+Blücher, 85, 86, 88, 89, 93, 145, 263
+
+Boher, French sculptor (d. 1825), 132
+
+Bois de Boulogne, 177
+
+Bolero, Spanish dance, 60
+
+Bonn, music on the Rhine, 188
+
+Boodle's Club, 33
+
+Borneo Mission, 23
+
+Borodino, 177
+
+Boulogne, 107-252
+
+Bourbons, The, 78, 107, 237, 284, 288-292
+
+Boyd, Mr. and Mrs., 304
+
+Brabant, 181
+
+Breda, 209, 217, 218, 226
+
+Brisbane, Sir Thomas, at Valenciennes, 279, 283
+
+Brise-Maison, General, _see_ Maison
+
+British character, 195
+
+British soldiers, 166
+
+_Britomart_, H.M.S., 18
+
+Brock, Holland, 227
+
+Brooke, Sir James, English traveller, Rajah of Sarawack (1803-1868), 23
+
+Bruce, Michael, the Englishman who helped Lavalette to escape, 293, 294
+
+Bruges, 247, 258, 260, 273
+
+Brussels, 193, 195, 197, 199, 200, 208, 209, 233, 264, 269, 274, 277
+
+Buiksloot, North Holland, 226
+
+Bülow, Marshal, 145
+
+Buonaparte, Napoleon, Emperor, 34, 35, 37, 40, 46, 47, 50, 74, 90, 99,
+100, 118, 120, 121, 130, 138-140, 148, 152-154, 162, 175, 180, 238, 241,
+244, 266, 271, 275, 281, 282, 288, 295, 296, 300, 302, 303, 304, 306-307
+
+Buonaparte family, 237
+
+Buonaparte, Louis, King of Holland, 225
+
+Buonaparte, Lucien, 83
+
+Burgundy, 46
+
+"Bustle's Banquet," by Rev. E. Stanley, 17
+
+Buttereax, plains of, Lyons, 43
+
+"Butterfly's Ball," by Sir H. Roscoe, 17
+
+Buvin d'Enfer, 298
+
+Byng's Brigade, 263
+
+Byron, Lord, 79
+
+
+Cadiz, 53, 61, 68
+
+Café des Mille Colonnes, Paris, 142, 281
+
+Calick, Russia, 174
+
+"Calife Voleur, Le" Ballet, 88
+
+Cambray, 247, 279, 283
+
+Cambridge, 11, 12, 25, 40, 50, 81, 247, 248, 250
+
+Campo Formio, Treaty of (1797), 243
+
+Cannes, 242
+
+Canova, 132
+
+Canterbury, 249
+
+Cardinals at Fontainebleau, 152
+
+Carleton, Mr., 251
+
+Carlton House, 83
+
+Carnival of Venice, 240
+
+Caroline of Naples, 289
+
+Carousel, Place de, 37, 136, 139
+
+Castlereagh, Lord, 87
+
+Catacombs, Paris, 143, 286, 298
+
+Catalonia, 56
+
+Catherine, Grand-Duchess of Russia, _see_ Oldenburg
+
+Châlons, 41-43, 146, 156, 168
+
+Chamber of Representatives, 130
+
+Chambord, Comte de, 139
+
+Champagne, 41, 46
+
+Champlain, Lake, 238
+
+Champs Elysées, 119, 139, 301
+
+Charenton, near Paris, 116
+
+Charlemont, Anne, Lady, daughter and heiress of William Bermingham, of
+Ross Hill, co. Galway (d. 1876), aged 95, 132
+
+Charleroi, 276
+
+Charles IV., King of Spain, 64, 70
+
+Château Thierry, 145, 157
+
+Chatham, Earl of, 203
+
+Chatillon, 41
+
+Chavignon, near Laon, 161
+
+Chichester, Thomas, 2nd Earl of, 244
+
+"Childe Harold," 80
+
+Cholmondeley, Miss, 82
+
+Churchill, Major, 95
+
+Clancarty, Lord, Ambassador, 82, 233
+
+Clarke, Marshal, Duc de Feltre, 243
+
+Clinton, Lady Louisa, daughter of Lord Sheffield, 76, 251
+
+Clinton, General Sir Henry, 75
+
+Clinton, General Sir William, married Lady Louisa Holroyd, 75
+
+Coblentz, 186
+
+Cole, Sir Lowry, 279, 283
+
+Cologne, 172, 186, 190
+
+Colonne, Vendôme, 110
+
+Combermere, Lord, 96
+
+Compiègne, 281, 283, 284
+
+"Comte de Cely," 78
+
+Conclave of St. Peter at Fontainebleau, 152
+
+Congress of Vienna, 235
+
+Constant, Napoleon's valet, 152
+
+Constantine, Grand Duke, 178
+
+Constantino, Grand Duchess, 240
+
+Consul, The First, 26, 37, 73
+
+Cooke, Major-General, 210, 211, 214
+
+Coote, Sir Evelyn, 259
+
+Corbeny, France, 163, 164
+
+"Corinne," by Mdme. de Staël, 79
+
+Cork, Lady, 86
+
+Cornegliano, Duc de, _see_ Moncey
+
+Coronation, The, 165
+
+Corps Législatif, 129, 135
+
+Corte, La, 260
+
+Cotton trade, Rouen, 28
+
+Court dress necessary, 69
+
+Court etiquette, Buonaparte's tenacity as to, 37
+
+Court Martial, Gibraltar, in 1802, 66
+
+Craon or Craonne, 145, 156, 163
+
+Craufurd, Donald, of Auchinanes, 85, 246, 265, 276
+
+Croix, St. Louis, 291
+
+Cross, Mr. John, 98, 99
+
+Crosses, roadside, in Spain, signs of murders committed, 59
+
+Curtis, Sir William, 88
+
+Cutts Inn, Wilmslow, hamlet near Alderley, 162
+
+
+Dalmatie, Duc de, _see_ Soult
+
+D'Angély, _see_ Régnaud
+
+Dantzig, Duc de, _see_ Lefebre
+
+Davenport, E. D., of Capesthorne, 163
+
+Davoust, Marshal, Prince d'Eckmühl, 137
+
+Davy, Lady, 79, 81
+
+Davy, Sir Humphrey, 79, 81
+
+De Lille, poet, 300
+
+Dendrich, boundary France and Austria, 179
+
+Denia, Spain, 71
+
+De Non, French artist under Napoleon, 295, 296
+
+Desaix, General, killed at Marengo (1800), 50
+
+Dijon, 41
+
+"Dinner of the Dogs," or "Bustle's Banquet," 17
+
+Directory, The, 50
+
+Doge of Genoa, 50
+
+Douglas, Hon. Frederick, interview with Napoleon, 240, 241
+
+Dover, 187
+
+Dow, Gerard, Dutch painter, 38
+
+Dragoons at Rouen (1802), 30
+
+Dresden, Battle of (1813), 76
+
+Duels between Russian and French officers, 107
+
+Du Mare, French professor, 124
+
+Duméril, Andre, French physician, 124
+
+Dumolard, French politician, 130
+
+Du Pont, General, 139
+
+Dutch ark, 202
+
+Dutch carving, 205
+
+Dutch cleanliness, 227, 231
+
+Dutch family, 253
+
+Dutch guide, 230
+
+Dutch impenetrability, 224
+
+Dutch road, 209
+
+Dutch table d'hôte, 226
+
+Dykes, marvellous, 228, 229
+
+
+Eagle and Child, inn at Alderley, 272
+
+Eagles, Napoleon's, 110, 147, 150, 269, 282, 300, 307
+
+Eckmühl, Prince d', _see_ Davoust
+
+Ecole Polytechnique, 116, 175
+
+Edridge, H., painter, 139
+
+Egerton, Colonel, 280
+
+Egerton, Mr., 87
+
+Egypt, 42
+
+Ehrenbreitstein, 187
+
+Ehrenfels, Castle of, 184
+
+Elba, 46, 75, 159
+
+Elephant, fountain, 295-296
+
+Embden, 31
+
+Emigrants, French, 18
+
+Emperor's abdication, 75
+
+Emperor Alexander, _see_ Alexander
+
+Emperor of Austria, 135
+
+Emperor Napoleon, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Empress Joséphine, _see_ Joséphine
+
+Empress Maria Louisa, _see_ Maria Louisa
+
+Empress of Russia, 307
+
+Enghien, Duc d', 134, 245
+
+Entomologist, 185
+
+Entomology, 17, 124
+
+Ephemera, 186
+
+Etruria, King of, 50, 52
+
+Eugène Beauharnais, _see_ Beauharnais
+
+Executions, 43, 44
+
+Ex-Imperial Guard, 148
+
+
+Fagan, Mr., 46
+
+Fandangos, 60
+
+Fanshawe, Catherine, 77, 78
+
+Felix Meritus, Dutch museum, 225
+
+Feltre, Duke of, _see_ Clarke
+
+Ferdinand VII., King of Spain, 239
+
+Ferreant, Place de, Lyons, 43
+
+Flanders, 74
+
+Fleurs de Lys, 303
+
+Flushing, 210
+
+Foljambe, Mr., 249
+
+Fontainebleau, 145-146, 149, 152
+
+Forbach, 179
+
+Forbes, Lady Elizabeth, 240
+
+Fountain Elephant, 295-296
+
+Frascati, 33, 34, 39
+
+French emigrants, 18
+
+Fribourg, 170
+
+"Fugio ut Fulgor," 103
+
+
+Garde Impériale, 107
+
+Gardes d'Honneur, 148
+
+Garrison of Gibraltar, 66, 67, 70
+
+Gazettes, 105
+
+Genappes, 270
+
+Generalife at Granada, 59
+
+Geneva, 35, 40, 43, 46-47, 49, 55
+
+Genoa, 47, 50
+
+George Street, 90
+
+Ghent, 274-275
+
+Gibbon, 15
+
+Gibraltar, 25, 55, 57, 60, 61, 65, 71
+
+Glenbervie, Lord and Lady, 236, 240
+
+Goat curricles, 222
+
+Goat gigs, 233
+
+Godoy, Emanuel, Prince of Peace, 64, 70
+
+Gore, General, 211
+
+Gorum, 220-222
+
+Goths, 293
+
+Graham, Sir Thomas, 207, 213
+
+Granada, 57, 59, 60, 62, 66
+
+Grand Tour, 25
+
+Gronow, Memoirs of Captain, 107
+
+Grosvenor Place, 39
+
+Grosvenor, Lord, 113
+
+Guarda Costas, 68
+
+Guido, painter, 38
+
+Guignes, 145, 153, 154
+
+Guillotine, The, 43
+
+
+Haarlem, 230, 231
+
+Hague, The, 112, 233
+
+_Hannibal_, The ship, 53
+
+Hardwicke, Earl of, 112
+
+Hare, Rev. Augustus, 16
+
+Hare, Mrs. Augustus, Maria Leycester, 16
+
+Hare, Augustus J. C., 16
+
+Harlequin and Punch, 297
+
+Harris, Captain, 74
+
+Haslar Hospital, 98
+
+Haüy, mineralogist, 124
+
+Havre, 94, 96, 99, 100, 103, 105
+
+Haye, Sainte, La, 268
+
+Hazard, Rue du, Paris, 109, 143
+
+Heber, Reginald, Bishop of Calcutta (1783-1826), 16, 90
+
+Hodnet, 16
+
+Holland, 76, 159, 200, 226, 302
+
+Holland, Dr., 86
+
+Holroyd, Lady Maria Josepha, _see_ also Stanley, 14
+
+
+Holyhead Harbour, 255
+
+Holyhead Island, 10, 17
+
+Holywell, Alderley, 16
+
+Hookham's, 93
+
+Hôpital de la Charité, 45
+
+Hôpital des Invalides, 282
+
+Hermitage, Forest of Fontainebleau, 147
+
+Hibberts, the, 132, 168
+
+Highlake, Hoylake, Cheshire, 55, 69
+
+Hill, Rowland, General Lord Hill 95, 96
+
+Hobart Town, Tasmania, 18
+
+Hobbema, Dutch painter (d. 1699), 201
+
+Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle, 128
+
+Hôtel de Boston, Paris, 35
+
+Hôtel des Etrangers, Paris, 143
+
+Hôtel du Parc, Lyons, 43
+
+Hotel in the Wood, Haarlem, 230
+
+Hougoumont, 263, 265, 266, 267
+
+Hulot, General, 76
+
+Hundred Days, The, 244
+
+Hussey, Edward, of Scotney Castle, 25, 26, 32, 41, 71
+
+Hutchinson, Captain, 293, 294
+
+Huxley, Professor, 18
+
+Hyères, 48
+
+
+ICELANDIC EXPEDITION, made by Sir John Stanley, 7th Bart. (1788), 56
+
+"Ida of Athens," story written by Lady Morgan at Penrhos, Holyhead. Her
+study "Attica" so called to present day, 232
+
+Imperial Chasseurs, 107
+
+India House illumination (1814), 84
+
+Infanta of Spain, Queen of Etruria, 52
+
+Invalides, Hôtel des, 49, 115, 282
+
+Istria, Duc d', _see_ Bessières
+
+
+Jourdan, General, (1762-1833), 49, 136, 146
+
+
+LA BELLE ALLIANCE, 263, 267
+
+Labédoyère, General, 299
+
+Laeken, Palace of, 275
+
+Lady Penrhyn's cottages, allusion to the model village of Llandegai in
+Wales, 227
+
+Lafayette, General, Marquis de, 126
+
+La Haye, Sainte, 268
+
+Laird, English Consul, Malaga, 58
+
+Lamb, Lady Caroline, 86
+
+Lansdowne, Lord, 78
+
+Laon, 145, 146, 156, 161-163
+
+"La Reyna Louisa," 54
+
+Lavalette, General, 293
+
+Le Brun, 38
+
+Lefebre, Marshal, Duc de Dantzig, 138
+
+Leghs, The, of High Legh, 285
+
+Leghorn, 50-52
+
+Leighton, Sir Baldwin, Bart., of Loton, 68
+
+Leipzic, Battle of, 170, 177
+
+Leith, _The John of Leith_
+
+Leith, the Emperor sails from, 56
+
+L'Ettorel, Professor, 124
+
+Levanter, east wind, Mediterranean, 71
+
+Leycester, Edward Penrhyn, brother of Mrs. E. Stanley, 76, 81, 95, 246,
+247, 252
+
+Leycester, Hugh, uncle of Mrs. Edward Stanley, 32
+
+Leycester, Kitty, _see_ Mrs. E. Stanley, 15
+
+Leycester, Maria, Mrs. Augustus Hare, 15, 16
+
+Leycester, Oswald, Mrs. E. Stanley's father, 15
+
+Leycester, Ralph, 261
+
+Leycesters of Toft, 15
+
+Leyden, 231, 232
+
+Libraries, Public, 38
+
+Liège, 193, 195, 197
+
+Lille, 146
+
+Lillo, fort in Holland, 203
+
+Lind, Jenny, 22
+
+Lindsay, Lady Charlotte, 236, 240
+
+Linois, Comte de, 53
+
+Linz on the Rhine, 192
+
+Lisbon, 72
+
+Lisle, 196
+
+Liverpool, 36, 43, 51
+
+Liverpool, Lord, 87
+
+Llandaff, Dean Vaughan of, 19
+
+Lodi, Battle of, 136
+
+Loja, in Spain, 60
+
+London, 81, 82
+
+Lorich on Rhine, 184
+
+Louis Buonaparte, King of Holland, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Louis, King of Etruria, 50
+
+Louis XIV., 306
+
+Louis XVI., 303
+
+Louis XVIII., 78, 106, 107, 150, 177, 225, 235, 243, 271, 282, 290, 292,
+303-304
+
+Louisa Stanley, _see_ Stanley
+
+Louvel, assassin of the Duke de Berri, 139
+
+Louvre, The, 38, 113, 274, 300
+
+Lowe, Rev. Mr., 223
+
+Lucien Buonaparte, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Lucy Stanley, _see_ Stanley
+
+Lugai, Professor, 232
+
+Lutzen, Battle of, 170
+
+Lyne and Co., Lisbon, 72
+
+Lyons, 40, 42, 43-46, 47
+
+
+Macclesfield, Cheshire, 221
+
+Macdonald, Marshal, Duc de Tarente, 196, 244
+
+Macon, 42
+
+Madrid, 69, 71, 72
+
+Maine, The River, 182
+
+Maison, General, "Brise-Maison," 197
+
+Malaga, Mole of, 57, 61, 62, 64, 68
+
+Malines, Mechlin, 201, 202
+
+Malmaison, 130, 131, 134, 297
+
+Manchester, 85
+
+Marcet, Mrs., 78
+
+Marengo, Battle of, 49, 119
+
+Maria Josepha Holroyd, Lady, _see_ Holroyd and Stanley
+
+Marie Louise, Empress, 74, 240, 242, 281, 284
+
+Marlborough, Duke of, biography by order of Napoleon, 297
+
+Marly, Aqueduct of, 133
+
+Marmont, Marshal, Duc de Raguse, 106, 116-118, 126, 135, 138, 145, 177
+
+Marshals, The, 112, 135, 151, 195, 238, _see_ also under Bessières,
+Davoust, Berthier, Clarke, Jourdan, Lefebre, Macdonald, Marmont,
+Massèna, Moncey, Mortier, Murat, Ney, Soult, Victor
+
+Martin, Mr., 122
+
+Massèna, Marshal, Duc de Rivoli, 138
+
+Mathew, Father, 21
+
+Matthews, Montague, 37
+
+Maubeuge, 271, 278
+
+Maudesley's engines, 91
+
+Mausthurm, or Mouse Turret, 184
+
+Mayence, 146, 159, 180, 182
+
+McDonald, Captain, 298
+
+Meaux, 145, 153-156
+
+_Medusa_, English frigate, 50
+
+Melbourne, Lord, 19, 86
+
+Melun, 145, 146
+
+"Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, 16
+
+Meteoric stones, presentation sword made from, 93
+
+Metsu, Gabriel, Dutch painter (1615-1658), 38
+
+Metz, 146, 169, 173-175, 180
+
+Mieris, Dutch painter (1635-1681), 38
+
+Milton's mulberry-tree, 40
+
+Minorca, 67, 70
+
+Moncey, Marshal, Duc de Cornegliano, 137-139
+
+Mons, 271-273
+
+Montmartre, 105, 108, 110, 115-117, 175
+
+Montserrat, Lady of, 56
+
+Mont St. Jean, Waterloo, 262
+
+Moors, The, 62
+
+Moreau, General, 76
+
+Moreau, Madame, 76, 78, 90
+
+Morgan, Lady, 232
+
+Morritt, Mr., of Rokeby, 87
+
+Mortier, Marshal, Duc de Treviso, 7, 137, 144
+
+Moscow, 174
+
+Moskowa, Prince de, _see_ Ney
+
+Munchausen, Baron, 117
+
+Murat, Joachim, King of Naples, 138
+
+Murrays, The, 285, 290, 297, 298, 303
+
+Mutiny at Gibraltar, 66
+
+Muxham, near Antwerp, 207
+
+
+N., erasure of Napoleon's initial (1814-1816), 110-300
+
+Naard, Holland, 220
+
+Naples, 55, 71
+
+Naples, the King of, _see_ Murat
+
+Napoleon, 26, 73-83, 107, 111-113, 126, 134, 145, 146, 164, 176, 181,
+186, 187, 196, 199, 205, 206, 221, 223, 235, 242-245, 267-269, 288, 289,
+295
+
+National Schools, 22
+
+Nazareth, 151
+
+Necker, Minister to Louis XVI., 79
+
+Nelson's Pillar, Dublin, 110
+
+Netherlands, 146, 181, 237, 244
+
+New Guinea, 18
+
+New Zealand, 18
+
+Ney, Marshal, Prince de la Moskowa, 137, 299
+
+Nightingale, Miss, 19
+
+Nightingale, Dr., at Alderley, 126
+
+Nivelle Road, 265, 276
+
+"Nobles de Campagne," 241
+
+Norfolk, 20
+
+Normandy, 46
+
+North, Lady Catherine, married Lord Glenbervie, 191
+
+North, Hon. F., 191, 236
+
+North Island of New Zealand, 18
+
+North Sea, 18
+
+Norwich, Bishop of, _see_ E. Stanley, 19-22, 24
+
+Nottingham Castle, 249
+
+Novi, Northern Italy, 50
+
+
+Oldenburg bonnets, 101, 106, 200
+
+Oldenburg, Duchess, Catherine of, 83, 90, 92, 98, 178
+
+"Ologies," Humorous Sketches by E. S., 17
+
+O'Neil, Miss, actress, 286
+
+Orange, Prince of, 208, 233, 254
+
+Orange, Princess of, 231
+
+Ostade, Adrien, Dutch painter, 201
+
+Ostend, 251, 253, 255, 258, 259
+
+
+Palais Royal, 119, 281, 285
+
+Palmer, Mr., 33
+
+Pantin, France, 116
+
+Paris, 29, 31, 33, 34-35, 37-40, 73, 74, 76, 85, 106, 108, 109, 112-118,
+134, 135, 143, 249, 277, 285
+
+Parker, Mrs., of Astle, 137
+
+Parry, Sir Edward, K.C.B., arctic navigator, m. Isabella, daughter of
+Sir John Stanley, 254
+
+Peace, Prince of, _see_ Godoy
+
+"Peacock at Home, The," 17
+
+Penrhos, Holyhead, 10
+
+Perignan, General, 137
+
+Peter the Great, House of, 226
+
+Petit, Madame, French actress, 33
+
+Pevensey, Lord, 248
+
+Pierre Suisse, ancient castle near Lyons, destroyed in the Revolution,
+45
+
+Pisa, 51, 52
+
+Place Buonaparte, Lyons, 43
+
+Place Belle Cour, Lyons, 43
+
+Platoff, Russian General, 89
+
+Poissardes, Havre, 101
+
+Polytechnique, Ecole, _see_ Ecole
+
+Pope Pius VII., 46
+
+Porto Ferraro, Elba, 46-53
+
+Potter, Paul, Dutch animal painter (1625-1654), 201
+
+Praams, Flotilla of, at Havre, intended for the invasion of England, 100
+
+Prussia, Frederick William, King of, 91, 92, 152, 153, 177, 192, 237
+
+Prussia, Louisa, Queen of, 178
+
+Pulteney Hotel, London, 85
+
+
+"Queen," H.M.S, 23
+
+Quiverain frontier, France and Belgium, 278
+
+
+Radnor Mere, at Alderley, 252
+
+Raguse, Duc de, _see_ Marmont
+
+Rambouillet, Seine et Oise, 74
+
+Ramsgate, 249
+
+Raphael, 38, 133
+
+_Rattlesnake_, H.M.S., 18, 23
+
+Récamier, Madame, 33, 126
+
+Régnaud, St. Jean d'Angély, 119
+
+Reign of Terror, The, 26
+
+Rembrandt, 38, 225
+
+Revolution, The, 27, 35, 48, 126
+
+Rheims, 146, 165, 168
+
+Rhine Castles, 144, 172, 186
+
+Riddel, Captain, 60
+
+Rivoli, Duc de, _see_ Massèna
+
+Robespierre, Maximilian, 42, 48
+
+Rokeby, Mr. Morritt, of, 87
+
+Romainville, 116
+
+Rome, 55, 71
+
+Rome, King of, sent to Rambouillet, 74;
+ in uniform at three years old, 141;
+ four goat carriages ordered for him, 223
+
+Roncour, Madame, actress, 114
+
+Ronstan the Mameluke, 152
+
+Rotterdam, 223, 234
+
+Rouen, 27, 29, 31, 35, 36, 103, 104, 105, 120, 253
+
+Rowland Hill, _see_ Lord Hill
+
+Royals, the regiment, 67
+
+Rubens, 38, 205, 274
+
+Rue Aux Ours, 36
+
+"Rule Britannia," 99
+
+Russia, Empress of, 307
+
+Russia, Emperor of, _see_ Alexander
+
+
+Saarbruck, 195
+
+Saardam, 228
+
+Saas, 258
+
+St. Andrew, 281
+
+St. Andrew's Hall, Norwich, 21
+
+St. Appollonius, chapel on the Rhine, 188
+
+St. Avold, German Lorraine, 178, 179
+
+St. Bernard's Pass, 49
+
+St. Cloud, special residence of Napoleon, 140, 306
+
+St. Denis, 31, 116, 297, 302, 308
+
+St. Germain, The Terrace, 307
+
+St. Helena, 266, 269
+
+St. James' Street, 84
+
+St. Jean d'Angély, _see_ Régnaud
+
+St. Jean de Luz, 166
+
+St. John's, Cambridge, 12, 247
+
+St. Lawrence, processional figure, 280
+
+St. Michel, village near Havre, 100
+
+St. Roque, Spain, 65
+
+Salamanca, Battle of, 279
+
+Salvator Rosa, Neapolitan painter (1615-1673), 39
+
+Saumarez, Admiral, 53
+
+Scheldt, 204
+
+Scheveningen, fishing village near the Hague, 233
+
+Schwartzenberg, 74, 145
+
+Scotney Castle, Kent, property of E. Hussey, Esq., 25
+
+Scott, John, 262
+
+Scott, Sir Walter, 15, 262
+
+Scovell, Sir George, 247, 279, 283
+
+Senate, 77, 78
+
+Serinyer, 240
+
+Serurier, General, 137
+
+Seville, 59
+
+Sheffield, Lady (Lady Anne North), 191
+
+Sheffield, John B. Holroyd, First Lord, 14, 74, 75, 112, 235, 236, 240,
+242, 245-248
+
+Sheffield Place, 247
+
+Shute, surgeon, 42
+
+Sicard, Abbé, founder Deaf and Dumb School, Paris, 298
+
+Siddons, Mrs., 33
+
+Skerret, Major-General, 211
+
+Smith, Sydney, 15
+
+Soignies, Forest of, 261, 264
+
+Soissons, 145, 156, 159, 161-163
+
+Sotheby, Mr. and Mrs., 285, 298, 300
+
+Soult, Marshal, Duc de Dalmatie, 74, 138
+
+South Stack Rocks, Holyhead, 17
+
+Spain, 26, 55, 59, 63, 66, 69, 239
+
+Spanish Funds, 239
+
+Staël, Auguste de, 127
+
+Staël, Madame de, 76, 78, 79, 97, 110-112, 125
+
+Staël, Mademoiselle de, 127
+
+Stafford, Lord, 113
+
+Stanley, Sir John, 6th Bart., m. Margaret, daughter and heiress of Hugh
+Owen of Penrhos, 1763, 10
+
+Stanley, Lady Margaret Owen, born 1742, 10
+
+Stanley, Sir John T., 7th Bart., 1st Lord Stanley of Alderley, m. 1796
+Lady Maria Josepha Holroyd, daughter of Lord Sheffield, 15
+
+Stanley, Lady Maria Josepha, 15, 26, 74, 76, 78, 84, 89, 96, 235, 248,
+260, 273, 281, 301
+
+Stanley, Edward, naturalist and ornithologist, son of Sir John Stanley,
+6th Bart.;
+  born 1779;
+  entered St. John's, Cambridge, 1798;
+  wrangler, 1802;
+  Rector of Alderley, 1805 to 1837;
+  Vice-President of British Association for the Advancement of Science, 1836;
+  Bishop of Norwich, 1837;
+  died, 1849, 9-24
+
+Stanley, Mrs. Edward, Kitty, daughter of Rev. Oswald Leycester, of Stoke
+upon Tern, 15, 22, 82
+
+Stanley, Owen, eldest son of Bishop Stanley, 17, 23, 140, 190, 222
+
+Stanley, Charles Edward, 2nd son of _ibid._, 19
+
+Stanley, Arthur Penrhyn, Dean of Westminster, 3rd son of _ibid._, 10,
+19, 23
+
+Stanley, Mary, eldest daughter of Bishop Stanley, 19
+
+Stanley, Catherine, 2nd daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. C. Vaughan, Master of the Temple, and Dean of Llandaff, 19
+
+Stanley, Rianette, daughter of Sir John, 7th Bart., and Lady M. J.
+Stanley, 277
+
+Stanley, Lucy, 2nd daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. Captain Marcus Hare, R.N., 264, 305
+
+Stanley, Louisa Dorothea, 3rd daughter of _ibid._, 249, 250, 293, 297,
+305
+
+Stanley, Isabella, 4th daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. 1826 Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., Arctic Navigator, 254, 283
+
+Stanley, Louisa, daughter of Sir John T. Stanley, 6th Bart., and
+Margaret Owen of Penrhos: m. 1802 Sir Baldwin Leighton, Bart., 68
+
+Stanley, Lady Charlotte, daughter of 13th Earl of Derby;
+ m. 1823 Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn, 246
+
+Stanmer Park, property of Earl of Chichester, 243-244
+
+Stockholm, 170
+
+Stoke-upon-Tern, Mrs. E. Stanley's early home, 15, 115
+
+Strasburg, 182
+
+Stuart, Sir Charles, afterwards Lord Stuart de Rothesay, 105, 112, 113,
+120-122, 160
+
+Swedenborg, 194
+
+Sydney, 18
+
+Sydney, Lord, 86
+
+
+Tadmor, Palmyra, 152
+
+Talleyrand-Perigord, Prince de Benevento, French statesman and
+diplomatist, 1754-1838, Ambassador to Great Britain (1830), 237
+
+Talma, French tragic actor, 32, 114, 240, 286-7
+
+Tangiers, 60
+
+Tarentum, Duc de, _see_ Macdonald
+
+Tarleton and Rigge, 43
+
+_Tartana_, Mediterranean vessel, 57
+
+Tasmania, 19
+
+Temple, Paris prison, 31
+
+Teniers, Dutch painter, 201
+
+Tennant, Mr., 92, 93
+
+_Terror_, H.M.S., 18
+
+Tets von Grondam, Mdme., 229
+
+Tezart, Paris banker, 36
+
+Theatres, Paris, 33, 39
+
+Thuilleries, 37, 113, 121, 135, 304, 306
+
+Titian, painter, 38
+
+Toft Hall, Knutsford, 15
+
+Toledo, 59
+
+Tomkinson, Miss, 279
+
+Toulon, 70
+
+Tousein, Russian General, 177
+
+Towers, round towers at Laon, 162
+
+Trappe, La, Monk of, soldier in Napoleon's army, 170
+
+Treaty of Paris, 146
+
+Trechschuyt, Dutch barge, 225
+
+Treviso, Duc de, _see_ Mortier
+
+Trianon, 140, 306
+
+Troyes, Champagne, 41
+
+Trueman, Mr., 259
+
+Tunno, Miss, a brilliant member of society, lived at Taplow Lodge, 76,
+78, 85
+
+Turin, 49
+
+
+Union of England with Ireland and Scotland, Napoleon's views, 241
+
+Utrecht, 221, 224, 228
+
+
+Valencia, Spain, 71
+
+Valenciennes, 278, 282
+
+Vandyck, 38, 205, 206
+
+Vauchamps, 145
+
+Vaughan, Master of the Temple and Dean of Llandaff, 19
+
+Vaughan, Mrs, _see_ Catherine Stanley, 19
+
+Vauxhall, 30, 33
+
+Vendôme, Colonne, 110
+
+Vendôme Place, 110, 292
+
+Venice, 240
+
+Venice preserved, 285
+
+Ventas, Spanish inns, 58, 62, 65
+
+Venus de Medici, 114, 132
+
+Verdun, 146, 168, 169
+
+Vernet, Antoine Claude, painter (1758-1836), 38
+
+Veronese, Paul, 38
+
+Versailles, 39, 140, 305
+
+Vetey Malaga, 58
+
+Vetturino travelling, 25, 40, 47, 49
+
+Victor, Marshal, Duc de Belluno, 138, 145
+
+Vienna, Congress of, 112, 235, 237
+
+Villejuif, near Paris, 149
+
+Vincennes, Château de, 134
+
+Vittoria, Panorama of, 82
+
+Vivienne, Rue de, 32, 35
+
+
+Waal, river, Holland, 220
+
+Wagram, Prince de, _see_ Berthier
+
+Walcheren, 199, 203, 243
+
+Wales, Princess of, 177
+
+Waterloo, 133, 199, 246, 247, 260, 264, 265, 270, 275, 279
+
+Waterloo, Panorama of, by Barker, 248
+
+Wellington, Lord, _see_ Duke of
+
+Wellington, Duke of, 75, 263, 278, 280, 283, 291
+
+Wellington Tree, The, 268
+
+White's Club, 93, 95
+
+Wilberforce, William, 128
+
+Wilbraham, Mr., of Delamere Lodge, 285
+
+Wilson, Sir Robert, 294
+
+Windlesham, Surrey, 12
+
+Winnington, Cheshire, property of Sir John Stanley, 132
+
+Winzengerode, General, 145, 159
+
+Woolwich, 91
+
+Wurtemberg, Crown Prince of, 116
+
+Wurtemberg, Prince Eugene of, 116
+
+
+Yankies, 238
+
+Yarmouth, Lord, 242
+
+Yorke, Lady Elizabeth, 112
+
+
+UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, WOKING AND LONDON.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Maria Leycester, m. 1829 Rev. Augustus Hare.
+
+[2] "Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, adopted son of Mrs.
+Augustus Hare (Maria Leycester).
+
+[3] E. Hussey, of Scotney Castle, Kent. He died in 1817 and left his
+only son Edward (married, 1853, Henrietta Clive, daughter of Baroness
+Windsor) to the guardianship of Edward Stanley.
+
+[4] Madame Récamier, famous French beauty, 1777-1849.
+
+[5] Pius VII., made Pope in 1800.
+
+[6] General Jourdan, 1762-1833, Marshal. He fought in the Peninsular
+War, and rallied to Napoleon during the Hundred Days, but later on
+served the Bourbons and was made Governor of the Hôtel des Invalides
+under Louis Philippe.
+
+[7] General Desaix; killed at Marengo, 1800.
+
+[8] Louis, King of Etruria, son of Ferdinand, Duke of Parma married
+Mary, Infanta of Spain; died 1803.
+
+[9] Comte de Linois, 1761-1848. On June 13, 1801, he, with three ships,
+defeated six British ships in Algeciras Bay, and being protected by the
+Spanish batteries, he forced the British admiral to retreat, leaving the
+_Hannibal_ in possession of the enemy. In recognition of this triumph
+Linois received a sword of honour from Napoleon. The English fleet
+avenged this disaster on July 12, 1801, when the Spanish and French
+squadrons set out from Cadiz with the captured _Hannibal_ and Admiral
+Saumarez forced the combined fleets to retire shattered into harbour
+again.
+
+[10] The vessel in which Edward Stanley's elder brother John had made
+his Icelandic Expedition, 1788.
+
+[11] A famous image of the Virgin, said to have been found A.D. 880 on a
+mountain of Catalonia, and in honour of which a magnificent church was
+built by Philip II. and Philip III. of Spain.
+
+[12] _Tartana_--a vessel peculiar to the Mediterranean.
+
+[13] Emanuel Godoy, favourite Minister of Charles IV. of Spain.
+
+[14] H.R.H. Edward, Duke of Kent; appointed Governor of Gibraltar, 1802.
+In order to establish strict discipline in the garrison, which he found
+in a very demoralised state, he issued a general order forbidding any
+private soldiers to enter the wine shops, half of which he closed at a
+personal sacrifice of £4,000 a year in licensing fees. In consequence, a
+mutiny broke out on Christmas Eve, 1802. Though the mutiny was quelled,
+the Home Government did not support the Duke, who was recalled in March,
+1803.
+
+[15] Edward Stanley's sister, Louisa; m., November, 1802, to Sir Baldwin
+Leighton, Bart., of Loton, Shropshire.
+
+[16] Godoy (Emanuel--b. 1767, d. 1851), Prince of Peace. Prime Minister
+to Charles IV. of Spain.
+
+[17] Marshal Viscount Beresford, b. 1770, d. 1854, General in the
+English Army. He reorganised the Portuguese army in the Peninsular War.
+
+[18] Sir Henry Clinton, General; d. 1829.
+
+[19] Sir William Clinton, General, 1769-1854; married Louisa, second
+daughter of Lord Sheffield.
+
+[20] On April 10th Lord Wellington fought the Battle of Toulouse against
+Soult.
+
+[21] Madame Moreau, widow of General Moreau, daughter of General Hulot,
+and a friend of the Empress Joséphine. Since the death of the General,
+who was killed at the battle of Dresden, in 1813, the Emperor Alexander
+had given Mme. Moreau a pension of 100,000 francs a year in recognition
+of her husband's services; and in 1814 Louis XVIII. gave her the rank of
+"Maréchale de France."
+
+[22] Catherine Fanshawe, poetess, and friend of most of the literary
+people in London of her day.
+
+[23] Mrs. Marcet, b. 1785, a native of Geneva (_née_ Halduriand). Well
+known for her economic and scientific works.
+
+[24] Madame de Staël, daughter of Louis XVI.'s Minister Necker, b. 1766,
+d. 1817. Married 1786 to the Baron de Staël, Swedish Minister to France.
+She had been exiled from France by Napoleon on account of her books,
+"Corinne" and "L'Allemagne."
+
+[25] Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829; began life as a Cornish miner. He
+became a distinguished chemist and scientist.
+
+[26] Daughter of C. Kerr, Esq., of Kelso, and widow of S. Apreece, Esq.,
+married Sir Humphry Davy, 1812.
+
+[27] Second Earl of Clancarty, 1767-1837. Ambassador to the Netherlands
+
+[28] The Emperor Alexander I. of Russia, 1777-1825.
+
+[29] Lucien, second brother of the Emperor Napoleon, 1775-1840.
+
+[30] Catherine, Grand Duchess of Russia, sister of the Emperor Alexander
+I., won golden opinions in England. "She was very clever, graceful, and
+elegant, with most pleasing manners, and spoke English well." Creevey
+says that the Emperor was much indebted to his sister, the Duchess of
+Oldenburg, for "keeping him in the course by her judicious interposition
+and observations." In 1808 Napoleon had wished for her as his bride,
+but, as she says in a letter to her brother, the Czar, "her heart would
+break as the intended wife of Napoleon before she could reach the limits
+of his usurped dominions, and she cannot but consider as frightfully
+ominous this offer of marriage from an Imperial Assassin to the daughter
+and grand-daughter of two assassinated Emperors" (see "Letters of Two
+Brothers," by Lady G. Ramsden). The marriage of the Grand Duchess
+Catherine to the Duke of Oldenburg was hastily arranged to enable her to
+escape the alliance. The Duke died in 1812, and she afterwards married
+her cousin, the Crown Prince of Wurtemberg, to whom she had been
+attached in early youth. The Duchess attracted great attention by
+wearing a large bonnet, which afterwards became the fashion and was
+called after her.
+
+[31] Lady Caroline, daughter of the Earl of Bessborough, wife of Hon.
+William Lamb, afterwards Lord Melbourne, authoress of "Glenarvon," &c.
+
+[32] Mr. Morritt, of Rokeby.
+
+[33] Lord Liverpool, 1770-1828. Prime Minister in 1815.
+
+[34] Platoff, 1716-1818, Russian General.
+
+[35] Frederick William III.
+
+[36] The Duchess had been very fond of music, but since the death of her
+husband it had affected her so deeply that she feared breaking down on
+any public occasion.
+
+[37] Rowland Hill. General Lord Hill, 1772-1842; distinguished in the
+Peninsular War.
+
+[38] The Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.
+
+[39] "After the Restoration of the Bourbons several duels took place for
+the most frivolous causes. Duels were fought even by night. The officers
+of the Swiss guards were constantly measuring swords with the officers
+of the old 'Garde Impériale'" (Gronow's Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 22).
+
+[40] The Colonne Vendôme. This stood on the site of a statue to Louis
+XIV. which had been melted down at the Revolution. It was made of
+Austrian cannon taken during the years from 1806 to 1810.
+
+[42] Madame de Staël had only returned to France after her long exile a
+few weeks after Napoleon's abdication. Her rooms were in the Hôtel de
+Tamerzan, 105, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain.
+
+[42] Stuart, Sir Charles, 1779-1845. Eldest son of Sir C. Stuart,
+General, and Louisa, daughter and co-heiress of Lord Vere Bertie.
+Minister at the Hague and Ambassador at Paris, and later on at St.
+Petersburg. British Envoy at the Congress of Vienna. Created Baron
+Stuart de Rothesay 1841. Married, 1816, Lady Elizabeth Yorke, third
+daughter of third Earl of Hardwicke. Gronow gives a more favourable
+account of him, "One of the most popular Ambassadors Great Britain ever
+sent to Paris."
+
+[43] Under the Treaty of Paris France had been allowed to keep the Art
+Treasures taken by Napoleon.
+
+[44] Talma, the celebrated tragic actor, 1763-1826.
+
+[45] On March 30th the Allies marched on Paris. They attacked in three
+divisions--the Silesian army on the side of Montmartre, Prince Eugene of
+Wurtemberg and Barclay de Tolly by Pantin and Romainville, the Crown
+Prince of Wurtemberg by Vincennes and Charenton. Marmont surrendered the
+same day.
+
+[46] Régnaud St. Jean d'Angély, 1762-1819.
+
+[47] Abai Reny Just Haiiy, 1743-1822.
+
+[48] Duméril, naturalist and professor.
+
+[49] Marmont, 1774-1852, Duc de Raguse. The defence of Paris had been
+left in his hands by Napoleon, and his surrender to the Allies was the
+finishing stroke which forced Napoleon to abdicate.
+
+[50] Lafayette, 1757-1834, Liberal general and politician.
+
+[51] Madame Récamier, 1777-1849, a famous beauty. She had held a "salon"
+at Paris in the early days of the Empire, but had been exiled in 1811
+and had just returned (June, 1814).
+
+[52] Auguste de Staël, 1790-1827.
+
+[53] Mademoiselle de Staël, married the Duc de Broglie.
+
+[54] Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle and Rector of St. George's, Hanover
+Square; d. 1844.
+
+[55] William Wilberforce, 1759-1833; distinguished among the promoters
+of Negro Emancipation and the Abolition of the Slave Trade.
+
+[56] Dumolard, 1766-1820; a French politician, a prominent figure in the
+Chamber of Representatives under the first Restoration.
+
+[57] Eugène Beauharnais, 1780-1824, Viceroy of Italy, 1805-15. Son of
+Joséphine by her first marriage with the Vicomte de Beauharnais.
+
+[58] After the Second Restoration Prince Eugène Beauharnais sold
+Malmaison and removed its gallery of pictures to Munich.
+
+[59] Duc d'Enghien, 1772-1804, son of the Duc de Bourbon. Shot at
+Vincennes by order of Napoleon when First Consul, under the pretext that
+he had conspired against him.
+
+[60] Marmont lost his arm at the battle of Salamanca in 1812.
+
+[61] Jourdan, General, 1762-1833.
+
+[62] Duc de Treviso, Marshal Mortier, 1768-1835.
+
+[63] Duc de Conegliano, Marshal Moncey, 1754-1842. He defended the walls
+of Paris as Major-General of the National Guard and laid down his arms
+only after the Capitulation was signed.
+
+[64] Serurier, General, 1742-1819.
+
+[65] Perignan, General, 1754-1819.
+
+[66] Ney, Prince de la Moskowa, Duc d'Elchingen, 1769-1815, "Le Brave
+des Braves." He swore allegiance to Louis XVIII., but returned to
+Napoleon in 1815, fought under him at Waterloo, and was shot for treason
+under the Second Restoration.
+
+[67] Duc d'Istria, Bessières, Commander of the Old Guard.
+
+[68] Davoust, Prince d'Eckmuhl. In 1814 the unfortunate city of Hamburg
+was still suffering under the unrelenting severity of Davoust, who had
+appointed a commission having the power of condemning to death all
+persons who used inflammatory speeches to exasperate the soldiers or the
+inhabitants.
+
+[69] Victor, Duc de Belluno, 1764-1841.
+
+[70] Lefebre, Duc de Dantzig, 1755-1820.
+
+[71] Berthier, Prince de Wagram, 1753-1815, Chief of the Staff. A close
+friend of Napoleon from 1796 onwards. He escaped to Bamberg in 1815 in
+hopes of remaining neutral, but was killed there by the emissaries of a
+secret society.
+
+[72] Murat, 1778-1815, King of Naples and husband of Caroline Bonaparte.
+He had concluded a treaty with Austria against Napoleon in January,
+1814. He was shot in Calabria in 1815.
+
+[73] Massèna, Duc de Rivoli, 1758-1817. "The favoured child of victory."
+
+[74] Soult, Duc de Dalmatie, 1769-1861. He decided the victory of
+Austerlitz.
+
+[75] Edridge, portrait painter, 1769-1821.
+
+[76] Duke de Berri, second son of the Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles
+X., 1778-1820. He married Caroline of Naples, and was the father of the
+Comte de Chambord. He was assassinated by Louvel on the steps of the
+Opera House at Paris in 1820.
+
+[77] General Du Pont, 1759-1838.
+
+[78] Eldest son of Edward Stanley, b. 1811.
+
+[79] Soissons had been taken in February by the Russians under
+Winzengerode.
+
+[80] E. D. Davenport, Esq., of Capesthorne, Cheshire, 1778-1847.
+
+[81] May, 1813.
+
+[82] October, 1813.
+
+[83] Subsequent accounts which I heard proved that this second account
+was nearer the truth than the first (E. Stanley).
+
+[84] Queen Louise, _née_ Princess of Mecklenburg Strelitz.
+
+[85] Grand Duke Constantine, brother of Czar Alexander, 1779-1831.
+
+[86] Lady Catherine North, sister of Lady Sheffield, married 1786,
+Sylvester Douglas, Lord Glenbervie.
+
+[87] Hon. F. North, fifth Earl of Guilford.
+
+[88] Marshal Macdonald, 1765-1840.
+
+[89] General Maison, 1771-1840, one of the most faithful of Napoleon's
+generals.
+
+[90] This disastrous expedition to attack Antwerp sailed under the Earl
+of Chatham, July 20, 1809, and ended in total failure. The troops were
+withdrawn in December, 1809.
+
+[91] Sir Thomas Graham, 1748-1843, afterwards Lord Lynedoch.
+
+[92] Louis Buonaparte, third brother of Napoleon, 1778-1846; King of
+Holland, 1806-1813.
+
+[93] A novel by Lady Morgan.
+
+[94] F. North, afterwards 5th Earl of Guilford.
+
+[95] A member of the Directory.
+
+[96] In the neighbourhood of Lyons.
+
+[97] The defeat of the British Flotilla by the Americans in September,
+1814.
+
+[98] Ferdinand VII., b. 1784, d. 1833.
+
+[99] Daughter of the Duke of Saxe Coburg; married in 1796 to the Grand
+Duke Constantine of Russia.
+
+[100] Daughter of the second Earl of Guilford: married, 1800, John, son
+of Earl of Balcarres; d. 1849.
+
+[101] Son of Lord Glenbervie, and nephew of Lord Sheffield.
+
+[102] General Clarke, 1765-1818. He took part in the negotiations for
+the Treaty of Campo Formio in 1797. He was made Duc de Feltre for his
+services against the English at Walcheren. He accepted service under
+Louis XVIII., and was his Minister of War, 1815-1816.
+
+[103] Marshal Macdonald (made Duc de Tarente after the battle of Wagram,
+1809), b. 1765, d. 1840. He did not join Napoleon during the Hundred
+Days, but refused employment under the King, and served only as a simple
+soldier in the National Guard.
+
+[104] Edward Leycester had inherited in December, 1815, the fortune of
+his cousin, Lady Penrhyn, who directed in her will that he should assume
+the name of Penrhyn. He married, in 1823, Lady Charlotte Stanley,
+daughter of the 14th Earl of Derby.
+
+[105] Lord Pevensey, son of Earl of Sheffield.
+
+[106] Panorama by Barker, shown in London.
+
+[107] Married Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., the Arctic navigator, 1826.
+
+[108] Allusions to the characters in "Guy Mannering."
+
+[109] John Scott, painter, 1774-1828.
+
+[110] Hougoumont was occupied by Byng's Brigade, and resisted the
+repeated attacks of the French throughout the battle.
+
+[111] Napoleon's army, on the day of Waterloo, occupied the plateau of
+La Belle Alliance.
+
+[112] A farm occupied by the King's German Legion under Major Baring;
+after a gallant resistance captured by the French at 4 o'clock on June
+18th.
+
+[113] Wellington watched the battle from the shade of an elm-tree, which
+was afterwards sold to an Englishman, who made the wood into boxes and
+sold them as memorials.
+
+[114] General Bertrand, 1773-1844; fought in Egypt and distinguished
+himself at Austerlitz and in the campaigns of Wagram and Moscow. He
+followed Napoleon to Elba and to St. Helena.
+
+[115] Inn at Alderley.
+
+[116] Sir George Scovell, 1774-1861, General. He fought in the Peninsula
+and at Waterloo.
+
+[117] Sir Lowry Cole, second son of first Earl of Enniskillen, General
+of 4th Division at the Battle of Salamanca. He received the thanks of
+both Houses of Parliament for his gallant services in the Peninsula.
+Commanded 6th Division at Waterloo.
+
+[118] Comte d'Artois, afterwards King Charles X.
+
+[119] Daughter of Louis XVI.
+
+[120] Caroline of Naples.
+
+[121] Michael Bruce, one of the Englishmen who helped Lavalette to
+escape from prison. He was known as Lavalette's Bruce. He had previously
+tried to save Ney. Major-General Wilson and Captain Hutchinson were also
+concerned in Lavalette's escape.
+
+[122] Denon (1747-1825), a member of the Académic de Peinture. He made
+sketches in Egypt for Napoleon, quietly finishing them on the
+battlefield. He directed the Emperor what objects of art he should take
+from various countries to enrich the Louvre. Napoleon made him
+Directeur-Général of Museums.
+
+[123] Abbé Roch Ambroise Sicard, founder of deaf and dumb school at
+Paris, 1742-1822.
+
+[124] Labédoyère, General (1786-1815). Shot at Grenelle, 1815.
+
+[125] French poet and Academician, 1738-1813.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Before and after Waterloo
+       Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802;1814;1814)
+
+Author: Edward Stanley
+
+Editor: Jane H. Adeane And Maud Grenfell
+
+Release Date: November 29, 2009 [EBook #30564]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images available at Biblioth�que nationale
+de France (http://gallica.bnf.fr) and The Internet Archive
+(http://www.archive.org).
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: book's cover]
+
+
+
+
+BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO
+
+[Illustration: _Le courier du Rhin perd tout en revenant de la foire de
+Leipsig._]
+
+
+
+
+BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO
+
+LETTERS
+
+FROM
+
+EDWARD STANLEY
+
+SOMETIME BISHOP OF NORWICH
+
+(1802; 1814; 1816)
+
+EDITED BY JANE H. ADEANE AND MAUD GRENFELL
+
+LONDON
+
+T. FISHER UNWIN
+
+ADELPHI TERRACE
+MCMVII
+
+(_All rights reserved._)
+
+ECHOES OF PAST DAYS
+
+AT
+
+ALDERLEY RECTORY
+
+[Illustration: _Edward Stanley D.D._
+
+_Bishop of Norwich_
+
+_n. 1780 ob. 1849_]
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY                               9
+
+CHAPTER I
+NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE                                          25
+
+CHAPTER II
+AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL                                              73
+
+CHAPTER III
+UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG                                             97
+
+CHAPTER IV
+ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY                                   144
+
+CHAPTER V
+THE LOW COUNTRIES                                                 199
+
+CHAPTER VI
+THE WATERLOO YEAR                                                 235
+
+CHAPTER VII
+AFTER WATERLOO                                                    247
+
+_The originals of most of the letters now published are, with the
+drawings that illustrate them, at Llanfawr, Holyhead._
+
+_Some extracts from these letters have already appeared in the "Early
+Married Life of Maria Josepha, Lady Stanley," but are here inserted
+again by kind permission of Messrs. Longman, and complete Bishop
+Stanley's correspondence._
+
+_Portions of letters quoted in Dean Stanley's volume, "Edward and
+Catherine Stanley," have also been used with Messrs. Murray's consent._
+
+_In addition to the MSS. at Llanfawr, Lord Stanley of Alderley has
+kindly contributed some original letters in his possession._
+
+_J.H.A._
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+"LE COURIER DU RHIN"                                   _Frontispiece_
+
+_Sketch brought to England 1814 by General Scott of Thorpe,
+one of the detenus in France for ten years after the rupture
+of the Peache of Amiens, mentioned page 73._
+
+BISHOP STANLEY                                       _To face page_ 2
+
+_By John Linnell. From a drawing in the possession of
+Canon J. Hugh Way, Henbury._
+
+MARGARET OWEN, LADY STANLEY                              "         10
+
+_From a miniature in the possession of Lady Reade-Carreglwyd,
+Anglesey._
+
+"FLIGHT OF INTELLECT"                                    "         17
+
+_Humorous sketch by E. Stanley._
+
+EDWARD STANLEY, 1800                                     "         25
+
+_By P. Green. The original in the possession of Lord Stanley
+of Alderley, at Penrhos, Anglesey._
+
+THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE                                 "         31
+
+_Sketch by E. Stanley, 1802._
+
+THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SA�NE                       "         43
+
+_Sketch by E. Stanley,_
+
+LORD SHEFFIELD                                           "         73
+
+_By Sir Joshua Reynolds, P.R.A. From an engraving in the
+possession of J.H. Adeane, Lanfavar, Holyhead._
+
+KITTY LEYCESTER, MRS. EDWARD STANLEY                     "         82
+
+_From a drawing by H. Edridge, A.R.A., at Alderley Park,
+Cheshire._
+
+PARIS, 1814. OLD BRIDGE AND CH�TELET                     "        108
+
+_E. Stanley._
+
+PARIS, LA POMPE, NOTRE DAME                              "        115
+
+_E. S._
+
+PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS                                      "        141
+
+_E. S._
+
+THE CATACOMBS, PARIS                                     "        143
+
+_E. S._
+
+LAON. HOUSES AND TOWER, 1814                             "        161
+
+_E. S._
+
+BERRY AU BAC                                             "        164
+
+_E. S._
+
+VERDUN. BRIDGE                                           "        168
+
+_E. Stanley._
+
+FRENCH DILIGENCE                                         "        193
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH SHIPS                                              "        199
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT                          "        219
+
+_E. S._
+
+GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME                "        223
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH TABLE D'HOTE                                       "        226
+
+_E. S._
+
+OLD HOUSES, SAARDAM                                      "        228
+
+_E. S._
+
+PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM                         "        230
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH FISHERMEN                                          "        233
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH CARRIAGE                                           "        234
+
+_E. S._
+
+CORN MILLS AT VERNON                                     "        247
+
+_E. S._
+
+FRENCH CABRIOLET                                         "        260
+
+_E. S._
+
+HOUGOUMONT                                               "        263
+
+_E. S._
+
+INTERIOR OF HOUGOUMONT                                   "        265
+
+_E. S._
+
+LA BELLE ALLIANCE                                        "        267
+
+_E. S._
+
+WATERLOO                                                 "        270
+
+_E. S._
+
+GHENT. ST. NICHOLAS                                      "        274
+
+_E. S._
+
+PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO            "        276
+
+_E. S._
+
+PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS                "        300
+
+_E. S._
+
+THE GREAT GREEN COACH                                    "        306
+
+_E. S._
+
+ALDERLEY RECTORY                                           _page_ 308
+
+
+
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY
+
+
+The letters which are collected in this volume were written from abroad
+during the opening years of the nineteenth century, at three different
+periods: after the Peace of Amiens in 1802 and 1803, after the Peace of
+Paris in 1814, and in the year following Waterloo, June, 1816.
+
+The writer, Edward Stanley, was for thirty-three years an active country
+clergyman, and for twelve years more a no less active bishop, at a time
+when such activity was uncommon, though not so rare as is sometimes now
+supposed.
+
+Although a member of one of the oldest Cheshire families, he did not
+share the opinions of his county neighbours on public questions, and his
+voice was fearlessly raised on behalf of causes which are now
+triumphant, and against abuses which are now forgotten, but which
+acutely needed champions and reformers a hundred years ago.
+
+His foreign journeys, and more especially the first of them, had a large
+share in determining the opinions which he afterwards maintained against
+great opposition from many of his own class and profession. The sight of
+France still smarting under the effects of the Reign of Terror, and of
+other countries still sunk in Medi�valism, helped to make him a Liberal
+with "a passion for reform and improvement, but without a passion for
+destruction."
+
+He was born in 1779, the second son and youngest child of Sir John
+Stanley, the Squire of Alderley in Cheshire, and of his wife Margaret
+Owen (the Welsh heiress of Penrhos in Holyhead Island), who was one of
+the "seven lovely Peggies," well known in Anglesey society in the middle
+of the eighteenth century.
+
+The pictures of Edward Stanley and his mother, which still hang on the
+walls of her Anglesey home, show that he inherited the brilliant Welsh
+colouring, marked eyebrows and flashing dark eyes that gave force as
+well as beauty to her face. From her, too, came the romantic Celtic
+imagination and fiery energy which enabled him to find interests
+everywhere, and to make his mark in a career which was not the one he
+would have chosen.
+
+[Illustration: _Margaret Owen, Lady Stanley.
+
+n. 1742 ob. 1816._]
+
+"In early years" (so his son the Dean of Westminster records) "he had
+acquired a passion for the sea, which he cherished down to the time of
+his entrance at college, and which never left him through life. It first
+originated, as he believed, in the delight which he experienced, when
+between three and four years of age, on a visit to the seaport of
+Weymouth; and long afterwards he retained a vivid recollection of the
+point where he caught the first sight of a ship, and shed tears because
+he was not allowed to go on board. So strongly was he possessed by the
+feeling thus acquired, that as a child he used to leave his bed and
+sleep on the shelf of a wardrobe, for the pleasure of imagining himself
+in a berth on board a man-of-war.... The passion was overruled by
+circumstances beyond his control, but it gave a colour to his whole
+after-life. He never ceased to retain a keen interest in everything
+relating to the navy.... He seemed instinctively to know the history,
+character, and state of every ship and every officer in the service. Old
+naval captains were often astonished at finding in him a more accurate
+knowledge than their own of when, where, how, and under whom, such and
+such vessels had been employed. The stories of begging impostors
+professing to be shipwrecked seamen were detected at once by his
+cross-examinations. The sight of a ship, the society of sailors, the
+embarkation on a voyage, were always sufficient to inspirit and delight
+him wherever he might be."
+
+His life, when at his mother's home on the Welsh coast, only increased
+this liking, and till he went to Cambridge in 1798 his education had not
+been calculated to prepare him for a clerical life. He never received
+any instruction in classics; of Greek and Latin and mathematics he knew
+nothing, and owing to his schools and tutors being constantly changed,
+his general knowledge was of a desultory sort.
+
+His force of character, great perseverance and ambition to excel are
+shown in the strenuous manner in which he overcame all these obstacles,
+and at the close of his college career at St. John's, Cambridge, became
+a wrangler in the Mathematical Tripos of 1802.
+
+After a year passed in foreign travel Edward Stanley returned home at
+his brother's request, and took command of the Alderley Volunteers--a
+corps of defence raised by him on the family estate in expectation of a
+French invasion.
+
+In 1803 he was ordained and became curate of Windlesham, in Surrey.
+There he remained until he was presented by his father in 1805 to the
+living of Alderley, where he threw himself enthusiastically into his
+work.
+
+Alderley parish had long been neglected, and there was plenty of scope
+for the young Rector.
+
+Before he came, the clerk used to go to the churchyard stile to see
+whether there were any more coming to church, for there were seldom
+enough to make a congregation, but before Edward Stanley left, his
+parish was one of the best organised of the day. He set on foot schemes
+of education throughout the county as well as at Alderley, and was
+foremost in all reforms.
+
+The Chancellor of the diocese wrote of him: "He inherited from his
+family strong Whig principles, which he always retained, and he never
+shrank from advocating those maxims of toleration which at that time
+formed the chief watchwords of the Whig party."
+
+He was the first who distinctly saw and boldly advocated the advantages
+of general education for the people, and set the example of the extent
+to which general knowledge might be communicated in a parochial school.
+
+"To analyse the actual effects of his ministrations on the people would
+be difficult, ... but the general result was what might have been
+expected. Dissent was all but extinguished. The church was filled, the
+communicants many."
+
+He helped to found a Clerical Society, which promoted friendly
+intercourse with clergy holding various views, and was never afraid of
+avowing his opinions on subjects he thought vital, lest he should in
+consequence become unpopular.
+
+He grudged no trouble about anything he undertook, and the people
+rejoiced when they heard "the short, quick tramp of his horse's feet as
+he went galloping up their lanes." The sick were visited and cheered,
+and the children kindly cared for in and out of school.
+
+It was said of him that "whenever there was a drunken fight in the
+village and he knew of it, he would always come out to stop it--there
+was such a spirit in him."
+
+Tidings were once brought to him of a riotous crowd, which had assembled
+to witness a desperate prize fight, adjourned to the outskirts of his
+parish, and which the respectable inhabitants were unable to disperse.
+"The whole field" (so one of the humbler neighbours represented it) "was
+filled and all the trees round about, when in about a quarter of an hour
+I saw the Rector coming up the road on his little black horse as quick
+as lightning, and I trembled for fear they should harm him. He rode
+into the field and just looked round as if he thought the same, to see
+who there was that would be on his side. But it was not needed; he rode
+into the midst of the crowd and in one moment it was all over. There was
+a great calm; the blows stopped; it was as if they would all have wished
+to cover themselves up in the earth. All from the trees they dropped
+down directly. No one said a word and all went away humbled."
+
+The next day the Rector sent for the two men, not to scold them, but to
+speak to them, and sent them each away with a Bible. The effect on the
+neighbourhood was very great, and put a stop to the practice which had
+been for some time prevalent in the adjacent districts.
+
+His influence was increased by his early knowledge of the people, and by
+the long connection of his family with the place.
+
+Two years after Edward had accepted the incumbency, his father died in
+London, but he had long before given up living in Cheshire, and Alderley
+Park had been occupied at his desire by his eldest son, afterwards Sir
+John, who had made his home there since his marriage in 1796.
+
+Both the Stanley brothers married remarkable women. Lady Maria Josepha
+Holroyd, Sir John's wife, was the elder daughter of the first Lord
+Sheffield, the friend and biographer of Gibbon, and her strong
+personality impressed every one who met her.
+
+Catherine, wife of the Rector, was the daughter of the Rev. Oswald
+Leycester, of Stoke Rectory, in Shropshire. Her father was one of the
+Leycesters of Toft House, only a few miles from Alderley, and at Toft
+most of Catherine's early years were spent. She was engaged to Edward
+Stanley before she was seventeen, but did not marry him till nearly two
+years later, in 1810.
+
+During the interval she spent some time in London with Sir John and Lady
+Maria Stanley, and in the literary society of the opening years of the
+nineteenth century she was much sought after for her charm and
+appreciativeness, and for what Sydney Smith called her "porcelain
+understanding." The wits and lions of the Miss Berrys' parties vied with
+each other in making much of her; Rogers and Scott delighted in her
+conversation--in short, every one agreed, as her sister-in-law Maria
+wrote, that "in Kitty Leycester Edward will indeed have a treasure."
+
+After her marriage she kept up with her friends by active correspondence
+and by annual visits to London. Still, "to the outside world she was
+comparatively unknown; but there was a quiet wisdom, a rare
+unselfishness, a calm discrimination, a firm decision which made her
+judgment and her influence felt through the whole circle in which she
+lived." Her power and charm, coupled with her husband's, made Alderley
+Rectory an inspiring home to their children, several of whom inherited
+talent to a remarkable degree.
+
+Her sister Maria[1] writes from Hodnet, the home of the poet Heber: "I
+want to know all you have been doing since the day that bore me away
+from happy Alderley. Oh! the charm of a rectory inhabited by a Reginald
+Heber or an Edward Stanley!"
+
+That Rectory and its surroundings have been perfectly described in the
+words of the author of "Memorials of a Quiet Life"[2]: "A low house,
+with a verandah forming a wide balcony for the upper storey, where
+bird-cages hung among the roses; its rooms and passages filled with
+pictures, books, and old carved oak furniture. In a country where the
+flat pasture lands of Cheshire rise suddenly to the rocky ridge of
+Alderley Edge, with the Holy Well under an overhanging cliff; its
+gnarled pine-trees, its storm-beaten beacon tower ready to give notice
+of an invasion, and looking far over the green plain to the smoke which
+indicates in the horizon the presence of the great manufacturing towns."
+
+There was constant intercourse between the Park and the Rectory, and the
+two families with a large circle of friends led most interesting and
+busy lives. The Rector took delight in helping his seven nieces with
+their Italian and Spanish studies, in fostering their love of poetry and
+natural history, and in developing the minds of his own young children.
+He wrote plays for them to act and birthday odes for them to recite.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLIGHT OF INTELLECT
+
+Skit on the recent discovery of the motive power of steam.--E. Stanley.
+
+_To face p. 17._]
+
+Legends of the countryside, domestic tragedies and comedies were turned
+into verse, whether it were the Cheshire legend of the Iron Gates or the
+fall of Sir John Stanley and his spectacles into the Alderley mere, the
+discovery of a butterfly or the loss of "a superfine piece of Bala
+flannel."
+
+His caricatures illustrated his droll ideas, as in his sketches of the
+six "Ologies from Entomology to Apology." His witty and graceful
+"Bustle's Banquet" or the "Dinner of the Dogs" made a trio with the
+popular poems then recently published of the "Butterfly's Ball" and "The
+Peacock at Home."
+
+    "And since Insects give Balls and Birds are so gay,
+    'Tis high time to prove that we Dogs have our day."
+
+He wrote a "Familiar History of Birds," illustrated by many personal
+observations, for throughout his life he never lost a chance of watching
+wild bird life. In his early days he had had special opportunities of
+doing so among the rocks and caverns of Holyhead Island. He tells of the
+myriads of sea-birds who used to haunt the South Stack Rock there, in
+the days when it was almost inaccessible; and of their dispersal by the
+building of the first lighthouse there in 1808, when for a time they
+deserted it and never returned in such numbers.
+
+His own family at Alderley Rectory consisted of three sons and two
+daughters.
+
+The eldest son, Owen, had his father's passion for the sea, and was
+allowed to follow his bent. His scientific tastes led him to adopt the
+surveying branch of his profession, and in 1836, when appointed to the
+_Terror_ on her expedition to the North Seas, he had charge of the
+astronomical and magnetic operations.
+
+When in command of the _Britomart_, in 1840, he secured the North Island
+of New Zealand to the English by landing and hoisting the British flag,
+having heard that a party of French emigrants intended to land that day.
+They did so, but under the protection of the Union Jack.
+
+In 1846 Owen Stanley commanded the _Rattlesnake_ in an important and
+responsible expedition to survey the unknown coast of New Guinea; this
+lasted four years and was very successful, but the great strain and the
+shock of his brother Charles' death at Hobart Town, at this time, were
+too much for him. He died suddenly on board his ship at Sydney in 1850,
+"after thirty-three years' arduous service in every clime."
+
+Professor Huxley, in whose arms he breathed his last, was surgeon to
+this expedition, and his first published composition was an article
+describing it. He speaks of Owen Stanley thus: "Of all those who were
+actively engaged upon the survey, the young commander alone was destined
+to be robbed of his just rewards; he has raised an enduring monument in
+his works, and his epitaph shall be the grateful thanks of many a
+mariner threading his way among the mazes of the Coral Seas."
+
+The second and most distinguished of the three sons was Arthur Penrhyn
+Stanley, of whom it was said "that in the wideness of his sympathies,
+the broadness of his toleration, and the generosity of his temperament
+the brilliant Dean of Westminster was a true son of his father, the
+Bishop of Norwich."
+
+The third son, Charles Edward, a young officer in the Royal Engineers,
+who had done good work in the Ordnance Survey of Wales, and was already
+high in his profession, was suddenly cut off by fever at his official
+post in Tasmania in 1849.
+
+The eldest daughter, Mary, had great powers of organisation, was a keen
+philanthropist and her father's right hand at Norwich. In 1854 she took
+charge of a detachment of nurses who followed Miss Nightingale's pioneer
+band to the East, and worked devotedly for the Crimean sick and wounded
+at the hospital at Koulalee.
+
+Katherine, the youngest daughter, a most original character, married Dr.
+Vaughan, headmaster of Harrow, Master of the Temple, and Dean of
+Llandaff. She survived her whole family and lived till 1899.
+
+The home at Alderley lasted for thirty-three years, during which Edward
+Stanley had changed the whole face of the parish and successfully
+organised many schemes of improvement in the conditions of the working
+classes in his neighbourhood. He could now leave his work to other
+hands, and felt that his energies required a wider field, so that when
+in 1838 Lord Melbourne offered him the See of Norwich he was induced to
+accept the offer, though only "after much hesitation and after a severe
+struggle, which for a time almost broke down his usual health and
+sanguine spirit."
+
+"It would be vain and useless," he said, "to speak to others of what it
+cost me to leave Alderley"; but to his new sphere he carried the same
+zeal and indomitable energy which had ever characterised him, and gained
+the affection of many who had shuddered at the appointment of a "Liberal
+Bishop."
+
+At Norwich his work was very arduous and often discouraging. He came in
+the dawn of the Victorian age to attack a wall of customs and abuses
+which had arisen far back in the early Georgian era, with no hereditary
+connection or influence in the diocese to counteract the odium that he
+incurred as a new-comer by the institution of changes which he deemed
+necessary.
+
+It was no wonder that for three or four years he had to stem a steady
+torrent of prejudice and more or less opposition; but though his
+broadminded views were often the subject of criticism, his bitterest
+opponents could not withstand the genial, kindly spirit in which he met
+their objections.
+
+"At the time of his entrance upon his office party feeling was much more
+intense than it has been in later years, and of this the county of
+Norfolk presented, perhaps, as strong examples as could be found in any
+part of the kingdom."
+
+The bishop was "a Whig in politics and a staunch supporter of a Whig
+ministry," but in all the various questions where politics and theology
+cross one another he took the free and comprehensive instead of the
+precise and exclusive views, and to impress them on others was one chief
+interest of his new position.
+
+The indifference to party which he displayed, both in social matters and
+in his dealings with his clergy, tended to alienate extreme partisans of
+whatever section, and at one time caused him even to be unpopular with
+the lower classes of Norwich in spite of his sympathies.
+
+The courage with which the Rector had quelled the prize fight at
+Alderley shone out again in the Bishop. "I remember," says an
+eye-witness, "seeing Bishop Stanley, on a memorable occasion, come out
+of the Great Hall of St. Andrew's, Norwich. The Chartist mob, who lined
+the street, saluted the active, spare little Bishop with hooting and
+groans. He came out alone and unattended till he was followed by me and
+my brother, determined, as the saying is, 'to see him safe home,' for
+the mob was highly excited and brutal. Bishop Stanley marched along ten
+yards, then turned sharp round and fixed his eagle eyes on the mob, and
+then marched ten yards more and turned round again rapidly and gave the
+same hawk-like look."
+
+His words and actions must often have been startling to his
+contemporaries; when temperance was a new cause he publicly spoke in
+support of the Roman Catholic Father Mathew, who had promoted it in
+Ireland; when the idea of any education for the masses was not
+universally accepted he advocated admitting the children of Dissenters
+to the National Schools; and when the stage had not the position it now
+holds, he dared to offer hospitality to one of the most distinguished of
+its representatives, Jenny Lind, to mark his respect for her life and
+influence.
+
+For all this he was bitterly censured, but his kindly spirit and
+friendly intercourse with his clergy smoothed the way through apparently
+insurmountable difficulties, and his powerful aid was ever at hand in
+any benevolent movement to advise and organise means of help.
+
+In his home at Norwich the Bishop and Mrs. Stanley delighted to welcome
+guests of every shade of opinion, and one of them, a member of a
+well-known Quaker family, has recorded her impression of her host's
+conversation. "The Bishop talks, darting from one subject to another,
+like one impatient of delay, amusing and pleasant," and he is described
+on coming to Norwich as having "a step as quick, a voice as firm, a
+power of enduring fatigue almost as unbroken as when he traversed his
+parish in earlier days or climbed the precipices of the Alps."
+
+In his public life the liveliness of his own interest in scientific
+pursuits, the ardour with which he would hail any new discovery, the
+vividness of his own observation of Nature would illustrate with an
+unexpected brilliancy the worn-out topics of a formal speech. Few who
+were present at the meeting when the Borneo Mission was first proposed
+to the London public in 1847 can forget the strain of naval ardour with
+which the Bishop offered his heartfelt tribute of moral respect and
+admiration to the heroic exertions of Sir James Brooke.
+
+It was his highest pleasure to bear witness to the merits or to
+contribute to the welfare of British seamen. He seized every opportunity
+of addressing them on their moral and religious duties, and many were
+the rough sailors whose eyes were dimmed with tears among the
+congregations of the crews of the _Queen_ and the _Rattlesnake_, when he
+preached on board those vessels at Plymouth, whither he had accompanied
+his eldest son, Captain Owen Stanley, to witness his embarkation on his
+last voyage.
+
+"The sermon," so the Admiral told Dean Stanley twenty years afterwards,
+"was never forgotten. The men were so crowded that they almost sat on
+one another's shoulders, with such attention and admiration that they
+could scarcely restrain a cheer."
+
+For twelve years his presence was felt as a power for good through the
+length and breadth of his diocese; and after his death, in September,
+1849, his memory was long loved and revered.
+
+"I felt as if a sunbeam had passed through my parish," wrote a clergyman
+from a remote corner of his diocese, after a visit from him, "and had
+left me to rejoice in its genial and cheerful warmth. From that day I
+would have died to serve him; and I believe that not a few of my humble
+flock were animated by the same kind of feeling."
+
+His yearly visits to his former parish of Alderley were looked forward
+to by those he had known and loved during his long parochial
+ministrations as the greatest pleasure of their lives.
+
+"I have been," he writes (in the last year of his life), "in various
+directions over the parish, visiting many welcome faces, laughing with
+the living, weeping over the dying. It is gratifying to see the cordial
+familiarity with which they receive me, and Norwich clergy would
+scarcely know me by cottage fires, talking over old times with their
+hands clasped in mine as an old and dear friend."
+
+Under the light which streams through the stained glass of his own
+cathedral the remains of Bishop Stanley rest in the thoroughfare of the
+great congregation.
+
+"When we were children," said a grey-haired Norfolk rector this very
+year, "our mother never allowed us to walk upon the stone covering
+Bishop Stanley's grave. I have never forgotten it, and would not walk
+upon it even now."
+
+    "We pass; the path that each man trod
+       Is dim, or will be dim, with weeds:
+       What fame is left for human deeds
+     In endless age? It rests with God."
+
+[Illustration: _P. Green, pinx circa 1800. Emery Walker Ph. Sc._
+
+_Edward Stanley._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE
+
+Rouen and its theatres--Painted windows--Paris--Costumes _� la
+Fran�aise_--The guillotine--Geneva--Vetturino
+travelling--Italy--Spain--The Ship _John_ of Leith--Gibraltar.
+
+
+In June, 1802, Edward Stanley started on the first of those foreign
+journeys which, throughout his life, continued to be his favourite form
+of holiday.
+
+He had just left Cambridge, having obtained a brilliant degree, and
+before taking Orders he set out with his college friend, Edward
+Hussey,[3] on the Grand Tour which was then considered necessary to
+complete a liberal education.
+
+They were fortunate in the moment of their journey, for the Treaty of
+Amiens, which had been concluded only a few months before, had enabled
+Englishmen to tour safely in France for the first time for many years;
+and every scene in France was full of thrilling interest. The marks of
+the Reign of Terror were still plainly to be seen, and the new order of
+things which the First Consul had inaugurated was only just beginning.
+
+It was an epoch-making journey to a young man fresh from college, and
+Edward Stanley was deeply impressed by what he saw.
+
+He could compare his own experiences with those of his brother and
+father, who had been in France before the Revolution, and of his
+sister-in-law, Maria Josepha, who had travelled there just before the
+Reign of Terror; and in view of the destruction which had taken place
+since then, he was evidently convinced that Napoleon's iron hand was the
+greatest boon to the country.
+
+He and his companion had the good fortune to leave France before the
+short interval of peace ended abruptly, and they were therefore saved
+from the fate of hundreds of their friends and fellow-travellers who had
+thronged across the Channel in 1802, and who were detained by Napoleon
+for years against their will.
+
+Edward Stanley and Edward Hussey left France at the end of June, and
+went on to Switzerland, Italy, and finally to Spain, where the
+difficulties and dangers which they met, reveal the extraordinary dearth
+of personal comfort and civilised habits among that nation at the time.
+
+The dangers and discomforts did not, however, interfere with the
+interest and pleasure of the writer who describes them. Then and ever
+after, travelling was Edward Stanley's delight, and he took any
+adventure in the spirit of the French song--
+
+    "Je suis touriste
+     Quel gai m�tier."
+
+His letters to his father and brother show that he lost no opportunity
+of getting information and of recording what he saw; and he began on
+this journey the first of a long series of sketchbooks, by which he
+illustrated his later journeys so profusely.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Father, Sir John T. Stanley, Bart._
+
+ROUEN, _June 11, 1802_.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,--You have already heard that I arrived here, & have been
+fortunate in every thing since I left England. Our passage from Brighton
+to Dieppe was short and pleasant, and so was our stay at Dieppe, which
+we left the morning after we arrived in it. I never saw France before
+the Revolution, & therefore cannot judge of the Contrasted appearance of
+its towns, but this I can safely say, that I never before saw such
+strong marks of Poverty both in the houses & Inhabitants. I have as yet
+seen nothing like a Gentleman; probably many may affect the dress and
+manners of the lower Orders, in order to screen themselves & may
+consider that an outward show of Poverty is the only way of securing
+what Riches they have. I can conceive nothing so melancholy.
+
+When I saw fine seats without Windows or with shattered Roofs, &
+everywhere falling to decay, I could not help thinking of their
+unfortunate Owners, who, even if they were lucky enough to be reinstated
+in their possessions, might fear to repair their Places, lest an
+Appearance of comfort might tempt the Government to seize their Effects.
+The only Buildings at all tolerable are the Barracks, which in general
+are large and well taken care of, & plenty of them there are in every
+town and village. Every Person is here a Soldier, ready to turn out at a
+moment's warning. This Town is in a flourishing State at present, tho'
+during the war not a single ship made its appearance in its Ports; now
+there are a great number of Vessels, chiefly Dutch. The Trade is Cotton,
+for the Manufactory of Stuffs and Handkerchiefs. It is said to be one of
+the dearest towns in France; certainly I have not found things very
+cheap. We were at the Play last night. An Opera called "La Dot," and an
+after piece called "Blaise & Bullet" were performed. The Actors were
+capital, at Drury Lane they could not have acted better. The House is
+very large for a Country Theatre and very pretty, but so shockingly
+filthy and offensive, that I wondered any Person could go often, but
+habit, I suppose, reconciles everything. There were a great many
+officers in the Boxes, a haughty set of beings, who treat their
+Compatriotes in a very scurvy way. They are the Kings of the place and
+do what they please. Indeed, we had a fine Specimen of Liberty during
+the Performances. An Actress had been sent to Rouen from Paris, a
+wretched Performer she was, but from Paris she came, and the Managers
+were obliged to accept her & make her act. The Consequence was, she soon
+got hissed, and a Note was thrown on the Stage; whatever it was they
+were not permitted to read or make it public till they had shewn it to
+the Officer of Police, who in the present Case would not let them read
+it. The hissing was, however, continued from Corners of the House, & one
+man who sate near us talked in a high style about the People being
+imposed on, when in the middle of his Speech I saw this Man of Liberty
+jump out of the Box and disappear in an Instant. I opened the Box door
+to see what was the cause, when lo! the Lobby was filled with Soldiers,
+with their Bayonets fix'd, and the officer was looking about for any
+Person who might dare to whistle or hiss, and silent and contented were
+the Audience the rest of the Performance. I cannot help mentioning a
+Speech I heard this very evening at the Play. A Man was sitting near a
+Lady & very angry he was, & attempted often to hiss, but was for some
+time kept quiet by the Lady. At last he lost all Patience and exclaimed,
+"Ma Foi, Madame, Je ferai ici comme si j�tais en Angleterre o� on fait
+tout ce qu'on plait." And away he went to hiss; with what effect his
+determination a l'Angloise was attended, I have mentioned. I afterwards
+entered into conversation with the Lady, & when she told me about the
+Police Officer not giving permission to read the note, she added,
+looking at us, "to you, Gentlemen, this must be a second Comedy." Last
+night (Sunday) I went to a F�te about a mile from the Town; we paid 1s.
+3d. each. It concluded with a grand Firework. It was a sort of Vauxhall.
+In one part of the Gardens they were dancing Cotillons, in another
+swinging. In another part bands of Music. I was never so much
+entertained as with the Dancers; most of them were Children. One little
+set in a Cotillon danced in a Style I could not have fancied possible;
+you will think I am telling a _Traveller's_ Story when I tell you I
+thought they performed nearly as well as I could have seen at the Opera.
+Here, as at the Theatre, Soldiers kept every body in awe; a strong party
+of Dragoons were posted round the Gardens with their horses saddled
+close at hand ready to act. I din'd yesterday at a Table d'H�te, with
+five French Officers. In my life I never saw such ill bred Blackguards,
+dirty in their way of eating, overbearing in their Conversation, tho'
+they never condescended to address themselves to us, and more proud and
+aristocratical than any of the _ci-devant Noblesse_ could ever have
+been. From this Moment I believe all the Accounts I have heard from our
+officers of the French officers who were prisoners during the War. They
+were always insolent, and excepting in some few cases, ungratefull in
+the extreme for any kindness shewn to them.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE, PARIS, JUNE, 1802.
+
+_To face p. 31._]
+
+PARIS, _June 17th_.
+
+The Day before yesterday I arrived in this Metropolis. We left Rouen in
+a Diligence & had a pleasant Journey; the Country we passed over was
+throughout extremely fertile; whatever Scarcity exists at present in
+France, it must be of short duration, as the Harvest promises to be
+abundant, and as every Field is corn land, the quantity of Grain will be
+immense. Government has indeed now taken every precaution. The Ports of
+Rouen & Dieppe were filled with Ships from Embden & Dantzig with Corn.
+Our Diligence was accompanied all the Night by a Guard of Dragoons, and
+we passed every now and then parties of Foot Soldiers on the Watch. The
+reason was, that the road had lately been infested with Robbers, who
+attacked the Public Carriages in great numbers, sometimes to the Amount
+of 40 together. They in general behaved well to the Passengers,
+requiring only any Money belonging to Government which might happen to
+be in the Carriage. At present as the Leader is taken and the Band
+dispersed, there is no Danger, but it is a good excuse to keep a Number
+of Troops in that part of the Country. We entered Paris by St. Denis,
+but the fine Church and Royal Palace are not now as they were in your
+time. The Former is in part unroofed and considerably damaged--the
+latter is a Barrack and from its outward appearance seems to have
+suffered much in the Revolution. The City of Paris on entering it by no
+means strikes a stranger. In your time it must have been but tolerable,
+now it is worse, as every other house seems to be falling down or to be
+deserted. We have taken our abode in the Rue de Vivienne at the H�tel de
+Boston, a central Situation and the house tolerably dear. The poor
+Hussey suffered so much from a Nest of Buggs the first night, that he
+after enduring them to forage on his body for an Hour, left his Bed &
+passed the night on a sofa. A propos, I must beg to inform Mr. Hugh
+Leycester that I paid Attention to the Conveyances on the road & think
+that he will have no reason to complain of them; the vehicles are not
+quite so good as in England nor are the Horses, but both are still very
+tolerable. The Inns I slept at were very good, and the roads by no means
+bad. I have been to a Play every Night since my arrival in Paris and
+shall continue so to do till I have seen all the theatres. The first
+evening I went to the "Th��tre de la R�publique"; I am told it is the
+best. At least the first Actors performed there. It is not to be
+compared with any of ours in style of fitting up. The want of light
+which first strikes a Stranger's eye on entering a foreign Play-house
+has its Advantage. It shews off the Performers and induces the Audience
+to pay more Attention to ye Stage, but the brilliant Effect we are used
+to find on entering our Theatres is wanting. This House is not fitted up
+with any taste. I thought the theatre at Rouen preferable. The famous
+Talma, the Kemble, acted in a Tragedy, & Mme. Petit, the Mrs. Siddons
+of Paris, performed. The former, I think, must have seen Kemble, as he
+resembles him both in person and style of acting, but I did not admire
+him so much. In his silent Acting, however, he was very great. Mme.
+Petit acted better than any tragic Actress I have ever seen, excepting
+Mrs. Siddons. After the Play last Night I went to the Frascati, a sort
+of Vauxhall where you pay nothing on entering, but are expected to take
+some refreshments. This, Mr. Palmer told me, was the Lounge of the Beau
+Monde, who were all to be found here after the Opera & Plays. We have
+nothing of the sort in England, therefore I shall not attempt to
+describe it. We staid here about an hour. The Company was numerous, & I
+suppose the best, at least it was better than any I had seen at the
+Theatres or in the Walks, but it appeared to me to be very bad. The Men
+I shall say nothing more of, they are all the same. They come to all
+Places in dirty Neckcloths or Pocket Handkerchiefs tied round their
+necks & most of them have filthy great Coats & Boots, in short, Dress
+amongst the Bucks (& I am told that within this Month or two they are
+very much improved) seems to be quite out of the Question. As for the
+Ladies, O mon Dieu! Madame R�camier's[4] Dress at Boodles was by no
+means extraordinary. My sister can describe that and then you may form
+some idea of them. By what I can judge from outward appearance, the
+Morals of Paris must be at a very low ebb. I may perhaps see more of
+them, when I go to the Opera & Parties. I have a thousand things more to
+say, but have no room. This Letter has been written at such out of the
+way times & by little bits at a time, that I know not how you will
+connect it, but I have not a moment to spare in the regular Course of
+the Day. It is now between 6 & 7 o'Clock in the Morning, and as I cannot
+find my Cloaths am sitting in a Dress � la Mode d'une Dame Fran�aise
+till Charles comes up with them. Paris is full of English, amongst
+others I saw Montague Matthews at the Frascati. I shall stay here till
+5th July, as my chance of seeing Buonaparte depends on my staying till
+4th, when he reviews the Consular Guard. He is a fine fellow by all
+accounts; a Military Government when such a head as his manages
+everything cannot be called a Grievance. Indeed, it is productive of so
+much order and regularity, that I begin not to dislike it so much. At
+the Theatres you have no disturbance. In the streets Carriages are kept
+in order--in short, it is supreme and seems to suit this Country vastly
+well, but God forbid I should ever witness it in England. You may write
+to me and tell others so to do till the 25th of June. Adieu; I cannot
+tell when I shall write again. This you know is a Family Epistle,
+therefore Farewell to you all.
+
+ED. STANLEY.
+
+I have just paid a visit to Madame de D. She received me very
+graciously, & strongly pressed me to stay till 14th of July to be
+present at the Grand Day. She says Paris is not now worth seeing, but
+then every Person will be in Town. If there is no other way of seeing
+Buonaparte I believe I shall stay--but I do not wish it--I shall prefer
+Geneva.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother, J. T. Stanley._
+
+HOTEL DE BOSTON, RUE VIVIENNE,
+_June 21, 1802_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,-- ... I sailed from Brighton on the evening of 8th and
+was wafted by a fine Breeze towards this Coast, which we made early on
+the morning of 9th, but owing to the tide, which had drifted us too much
+to leeward of Dieppe, we were unable to land before noon. We were
+carried before the Officer of the municipality, who after taking down
+our names, ages, & destination, left us to ramble about at pleasure.
+Whatever Dieppe might have been before the Revolution, it is now a
+melancholy-looking place. Large houses falling to ruin. Inhabitants
+poor, Streets full of Soldiers, & Churches turned into Stables,
+Barracks, or Magazines. We staid there but one night & then proceeded in
+one of their Diligences to Rouen. These Conveyances you of course have
+often seen; they are not as Speedy in their motion as an English Mail
+Coach, or as easy as a Curricle, but we have found them very convenient,
+& shall not complain of our travelling accommodation if we are always
+fortunate enough to meet with these vehicles. At Rouen we staid four
+days, as the Town is large and well worth seeing; I then made an attempt
+to procure you some painted glass; as almost all the Churches and all
+the Convents are destroyed, their fine windows are neglected, & the
+panes broken or carried off by almost every person. The _Stable_ from
+whence our Diligence started had some beautiful windows, and had I
+thought of it in time I think I might have sent you some. As it was I
+went to the owner of the Churches & asked him if he would sell any of
+the windows. Now tho' ever since he has had possession of them Everybody
+has been permitted to demolish at pleasure, he no sooner found that a
+Stranger was anxious to procure what to him was of no value, & what he
+had hitherto thought worth nothing, than he began to think he might take
+advantage & therefore told me that he would give me an answer in a few
+days if I would wait till he could see what they were worth. As I was
+going the next morning I could not hear the result, but I think you
+could for one guinea purchase nearly a whole Church window, at least it
+may be worth your while to send to Liverpool to know if any Ship is at
+any time going there. The Proprietor of these Churches is a Banker, by
+name Tezart; he lives in la Rue aux Ours.
+
+I arrived in Paris on the 15th, and intend staying even till the 14th of
+July if I cannot before then see the chief Consul. Hitherto I have been
+unfortunate; I have in vain attended at the Thuilleries when the
+Consular guard is relieved, and seated myself opposite his box at the
+Opera. On the 4th of July, however, there is a Review of his Guard, when
+he always appears, then I shall do my utmost to get a view of him. I
+cannot be introduced as I have not been at our Court, and no King was
+ever more fond of Court Etiquette than Buonaparte. He resides in the
+Thuilleries; opposite to his windows is the place de Carousel, which he
+has Separated from the great Area by a long Iron railing with three
+Gates. On each side of the 2 side Gates are placed the famous brazen
+horses from Venice, the middle Gate has 2 Lodges, where are stationed
+Horse Guards. Above this Gate are four Gilt Spears on which are perched
+the Cock & a Civic wreath which I at first took for the Roman Eagle,
+borne before their Consuls, resembling it in every other respect. These
+Gates are shut every night and also on every Review day. Paris, like all
+the Country, swarms with Soldiers; in Every Street there is a Barrack.
+In Paris alone there are upwards of 15 thousand men. I must say nothing
+of the Government. It is highly necessary in France for every person,
+particularly Strangers, to be careful in delivering their opinions; I
+can only say that the _Slavery_ of it is infinitely more to my taste
+than the _Freedom_ of France. The public Exhibitions (and indeed almost
+Every thing is public) are on a scale of Liberality which should put
+England to the blush. Everything is open without money. The finest
+library I ever saw is open Daily to Every person. You have but to ask
+for any book, & you are furnished with it, and accommodated with table,
+pens, ink, & paper. The Louvre, the finest Collection of pictures and
+Statues in the world, is likewise open, & not merely open to view. It is
+filled, excepting on the public days, with artists who are at liberty to
+copy anything they please. Where in England can we boast of anything
+like this? Our British Museum is only to be seen by interest, & then
+shewn in a very cursory manner. Our Public Libraries at the Universities
+are equally difficult of access. It is the most politic thing the
+Government could have done. The Arts are here encouraged in a most
+liberal manner. Authors, Painters, Sculptors, and, in short, all persons
+in France, have opportunities of improving themselves which can not be
+found in any other Country in the World, not even in Britain. You may
+easily conceive that I who am fond of painting was most highly
+Entertained in viewing the Great Gallery of the Louvre, & yet you will,
+I am sure, think my taste very deficient when I tell you that I do not
+admire the finest pictures of Raphael, Titian, Guido, and Paul Veronese,
+so much as I do those of Rubens, Vandyck, & le Brun, nor the landscapes
+of Claude and Poussin so much as Vernet's. Rembrandt, Gerard Dow & his
+pupils Mieris and Metsu please me more than any other artists. In the
+whole Collection they have but one of Salvator's, but that one, I think,
+is preferable to all Raphael's. I have not yet seen statues enough to be
+judge of their beauties. The Apollo of Belvidere & the celebrated
+Laocoon lose, therefore, much of their Excellence when seen by me. There
+is still a fine Collection in the Palace of Versailles, but the view of
+that once Royal Palace excites the most melancholy ideas. The furniture
+was all sold by auction, & nothing is left but the walls and their
+pictures. The Gardens are much neglected, & will soon, unless the Consul
+again makes it a royal residence, be quite ruined. You have, I daresay,
+often heard that the Morals & Society of Paris were very bad; indeed,
+you have heard nothing but the truth. As for the men, they are the
+dirtiest set of fellows I ever saw, and most of them, especially the
+Officers, very unlike Gentlemen. The dress of the women, with few
+exceptions, is highly indecent; in London, even in Drury Lane, I have
+seen few near so bad. Before I left England, I had heard, but never
+believed, that some Ladies paraded the streets in men's Clothes. It is
+singular that in the first genteel-looking person I spoke to in Paris to
+ask my way, I was answered by what I then perceived a lady in Breeches &
+boots, since when I have seen several at the Theatres, at the Frascati &
+fashionable lounges of the evening, & in the Streets and public walks! I
+have not heard from you since I left England. Excepting the letter which
+was forwarded from Grosvenor Place. I hope to hear at Geneva, where I
+shall go as soon as the great Consul will permit me by shewing himself.
+The Country is in the finest state possible, and their weather most
+favourable. They have had a scarcity of corn lately, but the approaching
+Harvest will most assuredly remove that. Adieu; I hope Mrs. Stanley has
+already received a very trifling present from me; I only sent it because
+it was classic wood. I mean the necklace made of Milton's mulberry-tree.
+I brought the wood from Christ's College Garden, in Cambridge, where
+Milton himself planted it.
+
+Believe me,
+
+Yours sincerely,
+
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+_From Edward Stanley to his Father and Mother._
+
+LYONS, _July 20, 1802_.
+
+I shall not write you a very long letter as I intend to send you a more
+particular account of myself from Geneva, for which place we propose
+setting out to-morrow, not by the Diligence, but by the Vetturino, a
+mode of travelling which, of course, you are well acquainted with, being
+the usual and almost only method practised throughout Italy unless a
+person has his own carriage. I am to pay �3 10s. for ourselves and
+Suite, but not including bed and provisions. South of the Alps these are
+agreed for.
+
+After every endeavour to see Buonaparte had proved vain, on the 6th of
+July we quitted Paris in a Cabriolet. All this night, and especially
+the next day, we thought we should be broiled to death; the thermometer
+was at 95 the noon of July 7th; as you relish that, you may have some
+idea of the Luxury you would have enjoyed with us.
+
+We arrived at Troyes on the evening of the 7th, an old town in
+Champagne. People civil and excellent Living, as the Landlord was a
+_ci-devant_ Head cook to a convent of Benedictines, but Hussey and
+Charles were almost devoured in the Night by our old enemies the Bugs.
+Hussey was obliged to change his room and sleep all next day. I escaped
+without the least visit, and I am persuaded that if a famine wasted the
+Bugs of the whole Earth, they would sooner perish than touch me.
+
+We left Troyes early on the morning of the 9th, arrived at Chatillon at
+four, and stayed there all night, for the Diligences do not travel so
+fast as in England. We left it at four the next morning, Hussey, as
+usual smarting, and I very little refreshed by sleep, as owing to a
+Compound of Ducks and Chickens who kept up a constant chorus within five
+yards of my bed, a sad noise in the kitchen from which I was barely
+separated, Dogs barking, Waggon Bells ringing, &c., I could scarcely
+close my eyes.
+
+At Dijon, beautiful Dijon, we arrived on the Evening of the 10th. Had I
+known it had been so sweet a Town I should have stayed longer, but we
+had taken our places to Ch�lons and were obliged to pass on. You, I
+believe, staid some time there, but, alas! how different now! The Army
+of rescue was encamped for some time in its neighbourhood, and the many
+respectable families who lived in or near it rendered it a sad prey to
+the hand of Robespierre. Its Churches and Convents are in a deplorable
+state, even as those of this still more unfortunate Town. The best
+Houses are shut up, and its finest Buildings are occupied by the
+Military. We left on the morning of the 11th, travelled safely (except a
+slight breakdown at our journey's end) to Ch�lons sur Sa�ne, and on the
+11th went by the water-diligence to Macon, where we stopped to sleep. We
+arrived at dusk, and as we were in a dark staircase exploring our way
+and speaking English, we heard a voice say, "This way, Sir; here is the
+supper." We were quite rejoiced to hear an English voice, particularly
+in such a place.
+
+We soon met the speaker, and passed a most pleasant Hour with him. He
+proved to be a Passenger like ourselves in the Diligence from Lyons
+which met ours here at the Common resting-place. He was a Surgeon of the
+Staff, returning from Egypt, by name Shute. We all three talked
+together, and as loud as we could; the Company, I believe, thought us
+strange Beings. We told him what we could of England in a short time, he
+of the South, and we exchanged every Species of information, and were
+sorry when it was necessary to part.
+
+[Illustration: THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SA�NE.
+
+_To face p. 43._]
+
+We arrived at Lyons on the 14th, the Day of the Grand F�te. We saw the
+Town Hall illuminated, and a Review on the melancholy Plains of
+Buttereaux, the common Tomb of so many Lyonnese. Here we have remained
+since, but shall probably be at Geneva on the 23rd. I lodge at the Hotel
+de Parc looking into the Place de Ferreant.
+
+The Landlady, to my great surprise, spoke to me in English very
+fluently. She is also a very excellent Spaniard. She has seen better
+days, her husband having been a Merchant, but the Revolution destroyed
+him. She was Prisoner for some time at Liverpool, taken by a Privateer
+belonging to Tarleton and Rigge, who, I am sorry to say, did not behave
+quite so handsomely as they should, the private property not having been
+restored.
+
+Of all the Towns I have seen this has suffered most. All the Ch�teaux
+and Villas in its most beautiful Environs are shut up. The fine Square
+of St. Louis le Grand, then Belle Cour, now Place Buonaparte, is knocked
+to pieces; the fine Statue is broken and removed, and nothing left that
+could remind you of what it was.
+
+I have been witness to a scene which, of course, my curiosity as a
+Traveller would not let me pass over, but which I hope not to see
+again--an Execution on the Guillotine. Charles saw a man suffer at
+Ch�lons; we did not know till it was over, but the Machine was still
+standing, and the marks of the Execution very recent. On looking out of
+my window the morning after our arrival here, I saw the dreadful
+Instrument in the Place de Ferreant, and on inquiry found that five men
+were to be beheaded in the morning and two in the evening. They deserved
+their fate; they had robbed some Farmhouses and committed some
+cruelties. In England, however, they would probably have escaped, as the
+evidence was chiefly presumptive. They were brought to the Scaffold from
+the Prison, tied each with his arms behind him and again to each other;
+they were attended by a Priest, not, however, in black, and a party of
+soldiers. The time of execution of the whole five did not exceed five
+minutes. Of all situations in the world, I can conceive of none half so
+terrible as that of the last Prisoner. He saw his companions ascend one
+after another, heard each fatal blow, and saw each Body thrown aside to
+make room for him. I shall never forget his countenance when he
+stretched out his neck on the fatal board. He shut his eyes on looking
+down where the heads of his companions had fallen, and instantly his
+face turned from ghastly paleness to a deep red, and the wire was
+touched and he was no more. Of all Deaths it is far the most easy; not a
+convulsive struggle could be perceived after the blow. The sight is
+horrid in the extreme, though not awful, as no ceremony is used to make
+it so. Those who have daily seen 200 suffer without the least ceremony
+or trial get hardened to the sight.
+
+The mode of Execution in England is not so speedy certainly nor so
+horrid, but it is conducted with a degree of Solemnity that must impress
+the mind most forcibly. I did not see the two who suffered in the
+evening, the morning's business was quite enough to satisfy my
+curiosity.
+
+The next Morning I saw a punishment a degree less shocking, though I
+think the Prisoner's fate was little better than those of the day
+before. He was seated on a Scaffold in the same place for Public View,
+there to remain for six hours and then to be imprisoned in irons for 18
+years, a Term (as he is 41) I think he will not survive.
+
+What with the immediate effects of the Siege and events that followed,
+the Town has suffered so much in its Buildings and inhabitants, that I
+think it will never recover. The Manufactories of silk are just
+beginning to shoot up by slow degrees. Formerly they afforded employment
+to 40,000 men, now not above half that number can be found, and they
+cannot earn so much. Were I a Lyonese I should wish to plant the plains
+of Buttereaux with cypress-trees and close them in with rails. The Place
+had been a scene of too much horror to remain open for Public amusement.
+The fine H�pital de la Charit�, against which the besiegers directed
+their heaviest cannon in spite of the Black ensign, which it is
+customary to hoist over buildings of that nature during a Siege, is much
+damaged, though scarcely so much as I should have expected. The Romantic
+Castle of the Pierre Suisse is no longer to be found, it was destroyed
+early in the troubles together with most of the Roman Antiquities round
+Lyons. I yesterday dined with two more Englishmen at the Table d'h�te;
+they were from the South; one, from his conversation a Navy officer, had
+been absent seven years, and had been in the Garrison of Porte Ferrajo
+in the Isle of Elba, the other an Egyptian Hero. There is also a Colonel
+from the same place whose name I know not.
+
+I heard it was an easy thing to be introduced to the Pope,[5] if letters
+are to be had for our Minister, whose name is Fagan, or something like
+it. Now, as I may if I can get an opportunity when at Geneva to pay a
+visit to Rome and Florence previous to passing the Pyrenees, I should
+like a letter to this Mr. Fagan, if one can be got. As Buonaparte's Pope
+is not, I believe, so particular as the Hero himself with regard to
+introductions, I may perhaps be presented to him. I look forward with
+inexpressible pleasure to my arrival at Geneva, to find myself amongst
+old friends and to meet with, I hope, an immense collection of letters.
+
+The Vineyards promise to be very abundant; of course we tasted some of
+the best when in Burgundy and Champagne. What a country that is! The
+corn to the East of Paris is not so promising as that in Normandy. The
+frosts which we felt in May have extended even more to the South than to
+this Town. The apple-trees of Normandy have suffered most, and the vines
+in the Northern parts of France have also been damaged.... I shall go
+from Geneva to Genoa, and there hold a council of war.
+
+GENEVA.
+
+...Between Lyons and Geneva we supped with the Passengers of a
+Vetturino. Two of these were Officers in the French Service, one of them
+a Swiss, the other a Frenchman. The conversation soon fell upon
+Politics, in which I did not choose to join, but was sufficiently
+entertained in hearing the Discourse. Both agreed in abominating the
+present state of Affairs. The Swiss hated the Consul, because he
+destroyed his Country, the other because he was too like a King. Both
+were Philosophers, and each declared himself to be a Moralist. The
+Frenchman was by far the most vehement of the two, and the Swiss seemed
+to take much pleasure in leading him on. His philosophy seemed to be
+drawn from a source equally pure with his Morality; assuming for his
+Motto his first and favourite Maxim, "que tous les hommes sont �gaux par
+les lois de la Nature," &c., he thought himself justified in wishing
+Buonaparte (I was going to say) at the Devil (but I soon found out that
+the existence of that Gentleman was a matter of great doubt with the
+Philosopher) for daring to call himself the Head of the French Republic.
+His hatred of Power was only equalled by his aversion to the English,
+whom he seemed to abhor from the bottom of his heart, so much so, that
+when I attempted to defend the First Consul, he dashed out with a
+Torrent of abuse, and ended by saying, "Et enfin c'est lui qui a fait la
+paix avec l'Angleterre."
+
+I was for some time in doubt what part of the Revolution he preferred,
+but by defending Robespierre, he soon gave me an Idea of his Love of
+Liberty, Morality, Equality, and so forth. I was sorry he retired so
+soon after Supper, as I never was more entertained in my life in so
+short a time as with this little Fellow, as singular in his Figure and
+Dress as in his Manner, and he contrived to be always eating as well as
+talking.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother J, T. Stanley._
+
+_Argonauta_, OFF HY�RES,
+_Sept. 29, 1802._
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,--Before I left Geneva I firmly intended writing to you,
+but as I left it unexpectedly and sooner than I intended I had not time,
+but this, and all my adventures till I left it, I hope you have already
+heard, as I wrote two letters, one to my Father, the other to my Mother
+before I quitted Geneva. You will no doubt be Surprised, and perhaps
+envy my present situation. Where do you think I am? Why, truly, writing
+on a cot between two 24-pounders in a Spanish 84. You will wonder, I am
+sure, at seeing the date of this letter, and perhaps wish to know by
+what good fortune I found a berth in a Spanish man-of-war, an Event
+which I little expected when I wrote last. I shall begin my story from
+Geneva, and you shall hear my adventures to the present moment. We left
+Geneva in a Vetturino for Turin, a Journey which took up 8 days longer
+than it naturally should have done, but our Coachman was taken ill, & we
+were on his account obliged to travel slowly. But I was not impatient,
+as you will know the Scenery is beautiful; we crossed Mount Cenis,
+which, after St. Bernard's, cannot be called a difficult pass. At Turin
+we stayed 3 days. It is now a melancholy Town, without commerce, &
+decreasing daily in population. The celebrated Jourdan[6] is the ruler
+of the place, & with his wife lives in the King's Palace. From Turin we
+went to Genoa, passing through Country not equal in Scenery, but
+infinitely more interesting than that between Geneva & Turin, every step
+almost having been the scene of battle, and every Town the Object of a
+siege. But the most interesting spot of all was the plain of Marengo,
+near Alessandria. As we travelled in the Diligence I had not so good an
+opportunity of viewing it as I should have had in a Vetturino, but we
+stopped a short time to see the monument which is raised to commemorate
+the victory; it is erected near 2 remarkable spots, one where Desaix[7]
+fell, the other the House from which Buonaparte wrote an account of the
+event to the Directory.
+
+We passed also thro' Novi, every House in which is marked by Shot; that
+unfortunate Town has been three times pillaged during the war. We
+arrived at Genoa on the 10th of Septr., in my opinion the most
+magnificent Town for its size I ever saw. The Palaces are beyond
+conception beautiful, or rather were, for the French Troops are not at
+this moment admitted within the Gates; they are quartered in the Suburb
+in great numbers. As for the new Government, it is easily seen who is at
+the head of it. There is a Doge, to be sure, but his orders come all
+from Paris. While we were waiting there expecting a ship to sail to
+Barcelona, the _Medusa_, English Frigate, came in, and amongst its
+passengers who came with her we found a Cambridge acquaintance, who
+advised us to go without delay to Leghorn as the Spanish Squadron was
+waiting there for the King of Etruria[8] in order to carry him to
+Barcelona. Fortunately the next day an English Brig was going, & in her
+we took our passages; we were fortunate enough to receive a large packet
+of letters from England a few hours before she sailed, which had she
+sailed at the time the Captain intended we should have missed. Will you
+let my sisters know that they arrived safe? I am not without hopes of
+making some use of the interesting letters to Italy, tho' I am now
+steering to the westward. After a good passage of two days we arrived at
+Leghorn and found the Spaniards still there. As soon as I landed I
+delivered a letter to a Mr. Callyer, a Liverpool Gentleman who is
+settled there, & by his means was introduced to the Admiral's first
+Lieut., who promised to secure me a berth in some of the ships. In
+short, here I am in a very fine ship, tho' a horrid sailer. I have now
+given you a short sketch of my tour till arriving at Leghorn; I have
+only to say something of Leghorn and the _Argonauta_. The Town has
+suffered very much by the war, supported nearly as it was by its
+Commerce with England. The inhabitants saw with little pleasure a French
+army take possession of the place & drive away the English. They still
+have a strong force in the town--upwards of 2,000--and its
+fortifications have been dismantled. It is singular enough to see the
+French and Tuscan colours flying together on the same staff. When we
+entered the port the Tuscan Ensign was becalmed & the French flag was
+flying _by itself_. I was much grieved not to be able to visit Florence
+when so near it, but as the Squadron was in daily expectation of sailing
+I did not venture to be absent for 4 days, which the Journey would have
+required. I was therefore obliged to content myself with a view of Pisa,
+which I would not have missed on any account. The leaning Tower is a
+curiosity in itself sufficient to induce a stranger to make a long
+journey to visit it. Here the King of Etruria lived and was hourly
+expected to set out for Leghorn. But his health, as it was believed, was
+in so precarious a State that it was sometimes reported that he would
+not go at all. The Queen, indeed, was in a very critical state, and were
+it not that her children, she being an Infanta of Spain, are entitled to
+a certain sum of money by no means small, provided they were born in
+Spain, it would have been madness in her to have undertaken the voyage;
+indeed, I think it highly probable that a young Prince will make his
+appearance ere we arrive at Barcelona. After having spent a longer time
+than I liked at Leghorn, which has nothing curious to recommend it, at
+length it was given out that on the 26th the K. would certainly arrive
+from Pisa and embark as soon as possible. Accordingly at 6 o'Clock on
+that day all the houses were ornamented in the Italian style by a
+display of different coloured Streamers, etc., from the windows, & His
+Majesty entered the Town. Had I been a King I should have been not
+altogether pleased with my reception. He appeared in the Balcony of the
+Grand Duke's Palace, no one cried, "Viva Ludovico I!" He went to the
+Theatre the same Evening, which was illuminated on the occasion, &, of
+course, much crowded. I do not think our opera could have boasted a
+finer display of Diamonds than I saw that Evening in the Ladies' heads,
+but, be it remembered, that there are 7,000 Jews in Leghorn, not one of
+whom is poor; some are reported to be worth a million. Many of the
+Italians are also very rich. Next day we were informed that it was
+necessary to repair on board our ship, as the King was to go early on
+the 20th. The Naval Scene received an addition on 26th by the arrival of
+2 French frigates from Porto Ferrajo. They had carried a fresh garrison
+there & landed 500 men of the former one at Leghorn; they marched
+immediately, as it was said, to garrison Florence. On the 27th the
+Spaniards and French, the only ships of war in the roads, saluted, were
+manned and dressed. At Eleven o'Clock of the 27th (after having again
+seen the K. at the Opera) in the Launch of the _Argonauta_ we left
+Leghorn & went on board, for the first time in my life, to spend I hope
+many days in so large a ship. She was one of that unfortunate Squadron
+which came forth from Cadiz to convey home Adl. Linois[9] & his prize
+the _Hannibal_, after our unsuccessful attack in Algeciras bay. This
+Ship suffered little; she was then a better sailer than she is now, or
+most probably she would not be at present in the Service of Spain. Early
+on the morning of the 28th the Marines were on the deck. It blew fresh
+from the shore, & it was doubted whether the K. would venture; at 8
+o'Clock, however, the Royal barge was seen coming out of the Mole. The
+Admiral's Ship, _La Reyna Louisa_, gave the signal & at the instant
+Every Ship fired 3 royal salutes. The Effect was very beautiful; we were
+the nearest to the Admiral, nearer the land were the 2 other Spanish
+frigates, & abreast of us the two French Ships. They were all dressed,
+and as the King passed near them they were manned and three cheers were
+given. The King's boat came first, then the Queen's. After them followed
+the Consuls of the different Nations who were at Leghorn, & after them a
+boat from each of the Ships. There were besides a great number of other
+boats & Ships sailing about. Soon after the King had arrived on board
+the _Reyna Louisa_, of 120 guns, the Signal was made for preparing to
+Sail, & soon after the Signal for Sailing. We all got under weigh, but
+as our Ship was a bad sailer we had the mortification of seeing
+ourselves left far behind in a short time. We have had nothing but light
+winds ever since, & for the last two days contrary, but I am not in the
+smallest degree impatient to get to Barcelona. The Novelty of Scene,
+more especially as it is a naval one, pleases me more than anything I
+have met with hitherto. We are, however, now (Oct. 3rd) looking out for
+land. Cape Sebastian will be the point we shall first see in Spain, & I
+much fear that to-morrow night I shall sleep in Barcelona. Of the
+Discipline of the Spanish Navy I cannot say much, nor can I praise their
+cleanliness. I wish much to see a storm. How they manage then I do not
+know, for when it blows hard the sailors will not go aloft; as for the
+officers or Midshipmen, they never think of it. Indeed, the latter live
+exactly as well as the officers; they mess with them, have as good
+berths, & are as familiar with them as they are with each other; very
+different in every respect from the discipline in English Men of War. I
+shall write another letter to my sisters by this post; as they are at
+Highlake you may exchange letters. Soon I shall write to you again. I
+have to thank you for a very long letter which I received at Geneva,
+chiefly relating to the proper judgement of paintings. I am not yet
+quite a convert, but experience may improve me. In Spain I understand I
+shall see some very good ones by the first masters. I fear much that my
+desire of visiting Spain will not be so keen as it was when I have seen
+a very little of it. By all accounts, even from Spaniards themselves,
+travelling is very inconvenient, & what is infinitely worse, very
+expensive; added to which the intolerable Suspicion & care of the
+Government renders any stay there very unpleasant. In case I find myself
+not at my ease there I shall, when at Gibraltar, take a passage back to
+Italy, for Rome & Naples must be seen. Now I think of it I must mention
+one ship well known to you which I saw at Leghorn, namely, the _John of
+Leith_. I accidentally saw her boat with the name written; you may be
+sure I looked at her with no small pleasure.[10] When I sought for her
+next day she was gone. I little thought when I last saw you to see a
+ship in which you had spent so much time, up the Mediterranean. I am
+learning Spanish at present, & the progress I have made in it is not the
+least pleasure I have received during my stay in the _Argonauta_. It is
+a language extremely difficult to understand when spoken, but easy to
+read, & very fine. I can already understand an easy book. If I can add
+Spanish & Italian, or some knowledge of those languages, to my stock, I
+shall consider my time and money as well spent, independent of the
+Countries I shall have seen. Before I close this letter, which you will
+receive long after its original date, I must tell you I have been making
+a most interesting visit to the celebrated Lady of Mont Serrat,[11] &
+was even permitted to kiss her hand, an honour which few, unless well
+recommended, enjoy. I have not time to say so much of it as I could, I
+can only assure you that it fully answered the expectations I had
+raised. The singular Scenery and the more singular Customs of its
+solitary inhabitants, excepting the monks of the convent, who lead a
+most merry, sociable life, are well worth the trouble of going some
+distance to visit. The formation of the mountain is also very
+extraordinary. Entirely pudding stone, chiefly calcarious, some small
+parts of quartz, red granite, & flint only to be found. I have preserved
+some pieces for your museum, which I hope will arrive safe in England,
+as also the small collection of stones which I sent from the Alps.
+
+Yours sincerely,
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+MALAGA, _Jan., 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,--To this place am I once more returned, after having
+made an excursion to the far-famed city of Granada and still more
+renowned palace of the Alhambra. My last letter was dated from Gibraltar
+on the 17th of Decr. We left the Rock in a Vile Tartan,[12] rendered
+still less agreeable by belonging to Spaniards, who, at no time
+remarkable for cleanliness, were not likely to exert themselves in that
+point in a small trading Vessel. We were crowded with Passengers and
+empty Casks--both Equally in the Way; tho' the latter were not then
+noisy nor Sick, I considered them as the least nuisance. Fortunately a
+strong W. Breeze soon carried us from the Rock, and in one night we
+found ourselves close to the Mole of Malaga. We introduced ourselves on
+landing to the English Consul Laird, to whose attentions we have been
+since much indebted. On the 2nd day after our arrival we heard of a
+Muleteer who was on his return to Granada, and with whom we agreed for 3
+Mules. The distance is 18 leagues over the Mountains, a Journey of 3
+days; this is a Country wild as the Highlands of Scotland, and in parts,
+if possible, more barren. The first night we slept at Vetey Malaga and
+the 2nd at Alhama, a Town famous for its hot baths, which, thanks to the
+Moors--who built walls about them--the Spaniards still enjoy. The
+accommodations in the Country are rather inferior to those of England,
+tho' perhaps you may consider me so prejudiced in favour of my own, and
+therefore unjust in my accounts of other Countries. This may be the
+Case, and I dare say a Muleteer would find infinite fault with an
+English Inn, where accommodation may be found for the Rider as well as
+the Mule. On entering one of these Ventas, or Inns, you find yourself in
+the Midst of Jack Asses and Mules, the necks of which, being usually
+adorned with bells, produce a Music highly entertaining to a traveller
+after a long day's Journey over these delightful roads. If you can force
+your way through this Crowd of Musical Quadrupeds it is necessary that
+you should attempt to find out the Landlord and petition for a room,
+which in general may be had, and if you are fortunate, Mattrasses are
+laid on the floor. Eating, however, is always out of the question. It is
+absolutely necessary to carry your own Stock and look for your self if
+a frying Pan can be found. If you are very much tired and the Bugs,
+Mosquitos, Fleas, and other insects (sent into the World, I believe, to
+torment Mankind) are also tired or satiated with sucking the Blood from
+the Travellers the preceding night, you may chance to sleep till 3
+o'clock in the Morning, when the Carriers begin to load their beasts and
+prepare for the day's Journey. The pleasure of travelling is also
+considerably diminished by the numbers of Crosses by the road side,
+which, being all stuck up wherever a murder has been committed, are very
+unpleasant hints, and you are constantly put in mind of your latter End
+by these confounded Monuments of Mortality. Fortunately, we met with no
+Tromboners on the road, and hitherto we have saved the Country the
+Expence of Erecting 3 Crosses on our account. At last we arrived at
+Granada, the 3rd Town in Spain in Extent, being surpassed only by
+Seville and Toledo. You will, I suppose, expect a long account of the
+Alhambra and Romantic Gardens of the Generalife, a minute account of the
+curiosities in the City and a long string of etceteras relative to the
+place. You must, however, remain in ignorance of all these things till
+we meet, as at present I have neither time or inclination or paper
+sufficient to repeat my adventures and observations: suffice it to say
+that on the whole I was much disappointed both with the Alhambra and
+Granada, which are I cannot say lasting Monuments, for they are falling
+fast to ruin. Of the Indolence and negligence of the people, you will
+scarcely believe that so large a Town so near the sea, and situated in
+one of the finest vales in Spain, is almost without Trade of any
+Sort--neither troubling itself with importations or exerting its powers
+to provide Materials for Exportation. The Capt. Genl., however, is doing
+all he can to restore it to its former dignity, and were he well
+seconded, Granada might again hope to become one of the brightest
+ornaments of Spain. We returned by way of Loja and Antiquiera on the
+27th of Decr., and have been wind bound ever since, and likely to be for
+another Month--sure never was a wind so obstinate as the present. We
+have here, I believe, quite formed a party to visit another quarter of
+the Globe--a short trip to Africa is at present in agitation. A Capt.
+Riddel from Gibraltar is one of the promoters, and if we can get to
+Gibraltar in any decent time you may possibly in my next letter hear
+some account of the Good Mahometans at Tangiers. We are but to make a
+short Stay and carry our Guns and dogs, as we are told the Country is
+overrun with game of every sort. I have been most agreeably surprised in
+finding Malaga a very pleasant place: we have met with more attention
+and seen more Company here than we ever did in Barcelona. I am this
+Evening going to a Ball; unfortunately Fandangos are not fashionable
+dances, but they have another called the Bolero, which in grace and
+Elegance stands unrivalled, but would scarcely be admitted in the less
+licentious circles of our N. Climate. I shall take lessons at Cadiz, and
+hope to become an adept in all those dances before I see you. If you
+write within a fortnight--and of course you will after receiving
+this--you may still direct to Cadiz. There has been a disturbance at
+Gibraltar, which was hatching when we were there, and during our absence
+has Broken out. The many strange reports and particulars which have
+reached Malaga--as I cannot vouch for their truth, I shall not Mention;
+the Grand point, however, was to put his Royal H. on board of a Ship and
+send him back to England. There has been also a desperate gale of Wind
+in the Straights--3 Portuguese Frigates, one with the loss of her
+rudder, were blown in here. Some Vessels, I understand, were also lost
+at the Rock. I hope our little brig, _ye Corporation_, with the young
+pointers has arrived in the Thames in spite of the constant Gales and
+contrary Winds which we met with. I was sorry when the Wind became fair
+and the Rock appeared ahead. My taste for salt Water is not at all
+diminished by Experience. It is no doubt a strange one, but there is no
+accounting for these things, you know. Malaga is warm enough--we have
+Green Peas and Asparagus every day. But we experienced very severe
+Weather at Granada--Frost and Snow. The baths of the Alhambra were even
+covered with Ice an Inch Thick. Adieu! this is Post Day.
+
+Loves to all,
+Yours Sincerely,
+E. S.
+
+
+GIBRALTAR, _Jan. 22, 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,--I promised in my last, which I wrote when I was on the
+point of Setting out on a tour to Granada, to write again and give some
+account of myself immediately on my return, which was delayed on account
+of Sundry unfortunate Circumstances till the day before yesterday. From
+Malaga I wrote to my Father, and you probably have heard that a fair
+wind carried us in a vile vessel from this place to Malaga in one night,
+from whence, staying as Short a time as possible, I set out on mules to
+Granada, distant a journey of three days. Till this time I had never,
+excepting from hearsay, formed a true idea of the perfection to which
+travelling in Spain could be carried, and yet, bad as it was, my return
+to land from Gibraltar has shown that things might be a degree worse. Of
+the roads I can only say that most probably the Spaniards are indebted
+to the Moors for first marking them out, and that the present race
+follow the steps of their Ancestors, without troubling themselves with
+repairs or alterations of any description. You may well then imagine the
+delicate State in which they now are. The Ventas or Inns are in a State
+admirably corresponding to that of the high-roads. Provisions of every
+sort must necessarily be carried unless the traveller wishes to fast;
+beds are occasionally, and indeed I may say pretty generally, to be met
+with, such as they are; of course, bugs, fleas, Mosquitos, and so forth
+must not be considered: they are plentifully diffused over the Country,
+and are by no means confined to the inferior houses. With a Substitution
+for "Pallida Mors" the quotation from Horace may with truth be applied,
+"aequo pulsant pede pauperum tabernae, Regum turres." We passed thro'
+Alhama, near which are some very fine hot baths; the exact heat I could
+not ascertain (as my thermometer was actually jolted to pieces tho' in
+its case in my pocket, travelling from Turin to Genoa), but it is so
+great that I could scarcely keep my hand immersed for a minute. In
+another Country they would be much frequented; as it is there are only
+some miserable rooms for those who repair to them from necessity. On the
+evening of the 21st of December we arrived at our Journey's end, and
+found, what we did not expect, a very tolerable Inn, though as Granada
+is considered the third Town in Spain, those who are unacquainted with
+the country might expect a better. I have so much to say that I cannot
+enter into a minute account of the famous Palace of the Alhambra and
+other Curiosities in the Town, which is most beautifully situated at the
+foot of a range of snow-covered Mountains at the extremity of what is
+said to be the most luxuriant and delightful valley in Spain. I hope for
+the credit of the Inhabitants that it is not so, as certainly it is in a
+disgraceful state of Cultivation, and were it not for the Acqueducts
+erected by the Moors for the convenience of watering the land would, I
+fear, in a few years be burnt up by the intense heat of summer. Its
+chief produce is Corn and oil; silk and Wine are also cultivated, but
+the cold of winter sometimes injures the two latter. The place is badly
+peopled and has no trade; it is chiefly supported by being the chief
+criminal port of Spain, and the richest people are consequently the
+Lawyers. We saw the baths of Alhambra in a state very different from
+what they usually are--actually frozen over and the Ice nearly an Inch
+thick. I must say I was greatly disappointed with these famed remains of
+Moorish Magnificence, tho' certainly when everything was kept in order,
+the fountains all playing, it must have been very different; at present
+it is falling fast to ruin. The Governor is a man appointed by the
+Prince of Peace,[13] and I believe would be unwilling to bestow any
+attention on anything in the world but his own person, of which by all
+accounts he takes special care. We returned to Malaga through Loja and
+Antequerra, both Moorish towns. At Malaga we were detained by Contrary
+winds for three weeks; we might, indeed, have passed our time less
+advantageously at other places, as we experienced much unexpected
+Civility & saw a great deal of Spanish Society. Wearied at length with
+waiting for Winds, we determined to set out on our return to the Rock by
+land, and accordingly hired 4 horses, and, under the most favourable
+auspices, left Malaga. We soon found that even a Spanish sky could not
+be trusted; it began before we had completed half our first day's
+journey to pour with rain. To return was impossible, as we had forded
+the first river. In short, for three days we suffered Every
+Inconvenience which can be conceived, but were still to meet with
+another disappointment, for on the Morning of the day in which we had
+certainly calculated to arrive at Gibraltar we came to a River which was
+so much swelled that the Boatman could not ferry us over. Nearly a
+hundred Muleteers and others were in the same predicament, and we had
+the satisfaction of passing two most miserable days in a horrid Cortigo,
+a house of _accommodation_ a degree lower than a Venta. Our provisions
+were exhausted, and nothing but bread and water were to be met with.
+Beds, of course, or a room of any sort were unobtainable. Conceive to
+yourself a kitchen filled with smoke, without windows, in which were
+huddled together about forty of the lowest order of Spaniards. As it
+poured with rain we could not stir out, and as for staying within doors
+it was scarcely possible. If we tried to sleep we were instantly covered
+with fleas and other insects equally partial to a residence on the human
+body. After two days' penance, as the waters began to abate, we
+determined to cross the river in a small boat and proceed on foot, which
+we did, and though we had to skip thro' 2 or 3 horrible streams and wade
+thro' Mud and Marshes we performed the journey lightly, as anything was
+bearable after the Cortigo del rio Zuariano. We passed through St. Roque
+and the Spanish lines and arrived at Gibraltar on 20th, out of patience
+with the Spaniards and everything belonging to Spain. Indeed, the
+Country is a disgrace to Europe. I wish indolence was the only vice of
+the inhabitants, but added to laziness they are in general mean in their
+ideas, the women licentious in their manners, and both sexes sanguinary
+to a degree scarcely credible. In Malaga particularly, few nights pass
+without some murders. Those who have any regard for their safety must
+after dark carry a sword and a lantern. You may form some idea of the
+people when there was one fellow at Granada who had with his own hand
+committed no less than 22 Murders. Nothing could be more gratifying to
+an Englishman than finding wherever he goes the manufactures of his own
+Country. This in Spain is particularly the case; there is scarcely a
+single article of any description which this people can make for
+themselves, consequently English goods are sure of meeting with a quick
+sale. Perhaps it may be from prejudice, but certainly the idea I had of
+England before I left it has been raised many degrees since I have had
+an opportunity of comparing it with other countries. But now for some
+news respecting Gibraltar itself, which has during my absence been a
+scene of Confusion, first by a dreadful gale of wind, and secondly from
+a much more serious cause, a spirit of Mutiny in the Garrison. By the
+former 16 or 18 vessels were either lost or driven on shore; by the
+latter some lives were sacrificed before tranquillity was restored, and
+3 men have since suffered death by the Verdict of a Court Martial. No
+doubt you will see something of it in the papers; I cannot now enter
+into a detail as it would take some time. The 2 Regts. principally, and
+I believe I may say only, concerned were the Royals, which is the
+Duke's[14] own Regt., and the 25th; fortunately they did not act in
+concert. The other Regts. of the Garrison, the 2nd, 8th, 23rd, and 54th,
+particularly the latter, behaved well. The design was to seize the Duke
+and put him on board a ship and send him to England. He is disliked on
+account of his great severity: whether he carries discipline to an
+unnecessary degree military men know better than myself. Despatches have
+been sent to England, and I believe some of the men concerned; the
+greatest anxiety prevails to know what answers or orders will be
+returned. Of War and the rumours of War, tho' we it seems are nearer the
+scene of action than those who dwell at home, little is known, and what
+little is seems to be more inclined to peace than the English papers
+allow. It is here said, on what grounds I know not, that the Spaniards
+have entirely ceded Minorca to their good neighbours the French. We have
+but a small Naval force in the bay; and a few frigates and ships of
+war, one of the latter the _Bittern_, I believe, arrived yesterday from
+England, but without any particular news. Many gun boats were fitting
+out at Malaga, but I was informed they were only meant for "Guarda
+Costas," which may or not be the truth. We sailed for Cadiz the moment
+an E. wind would give us leave; it has now blown almost constantly a W.
+wind for three months, and the season has been remarkably wet. I am
+impatient to get to Cadiz as I expect certainly to find letters, the
+receipt of which from home is, I think, the greatest pleasure a
+traveller can experience. Of Louisa's[15] marriage I have as yet not
+heard, tho' no doubt, however, it has taken place. How are my Nephews
+and Nieces? I do indeed look forward with pleasure to my next visit to
+Alderley. Remember it is now nearly 2 years since I have seen you; how
+many things have happened in the time to yours most sincerely
+
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother J. T. Stanley._
+
+GIBRALTAR, _January 16, 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,-- ... I shall pass over the greater part of the rest of
+your long letter & proceed without further delay to talk of myself. The
+last time you heard from me I think was soon after I arrived in
+Barcelona; what occurred during my stay there you have most probably
+heard from my sisters, as I wrote to Highlake just before I left that
+place. I consider myself as extremely fortunate in being at Barcelona
+during a time when I had a better opportunity of seeing the Court of
+Spain and the different amusements of the Country than I could have
+witnessed by a much longer residence even in Madrid itself. I was,
+however, unfortunately only a Spectator; as no regular English Consul
+had arrived in Barcelona, I had no opportunity of being introduced
+either at Court or in the first Circles. Another difficulty also was in
+my way; unfortunately I was not in the Army & consequently had no
+uniform, without which or a Court dress no person is considered as a
+Gentleman in this Country. I have repeatedly regretted that before I
+left England I did not put my name down on some Military list, & under
+cover of a red Coat procure an undisputed right to the title of
+Gentleman in Spain.
+
+As for the people, both noble and vulgar, it requires but a very short
+residence amongst them to be highly disgusted; few receive any thing
+which deserves the name of a regular Education, & I have been told from,
+I believe, undoubted Authority, that a nobleman unable to write his
+name, or even read his own pedigree, is by no means a difficult thing to
+meet with. The Government is in such a State that ere long it must fall,
+I should think. The King is entirely under the power of the Prince of
+Peace,[16] a man who from being a common Corps de Garde has risen by
+degrees, & being naturally ambitious & extremely avaricious has gained a
+rank inferior only to that of the King, & a fortune which makes him not
+only the richest man in Spain but probably in Europe. He is disliked by
+every Class of people, & it is not, I believe, without good ground that
+he is considered as little better than a tool of Buonaparte's.
+
+The conduct of France to Spain in many particulars, which are too
+numerous now to mention, shews in what a degraded state the latter
+is--how totally unable to act or even think for herself. One instance I
+need only mention, tho' I do not vouch for the truth of it, further than
+as being a report current in the Garrison. The French have _kindly_
+offered to send 4,000 troops to Minorca in order to _take care_ of it
+for yr good friends the Spaniards, and a Squadron is fitting out at
+Toulon to carry them there. After your alarming account of the naval
+preparations in the three kingdoms you will expect that I, who am here
+in the centre of everything, should be able to tell you a great deal;
+you will, therefore, be surprised when you are informed that yours is
+almost the only account of another war which I have heard of. A Strong
+Squadron, indeed, of 6 line of Battle Ships some time ago sailed with
+sealed orders and went aloft, but where is unknown. From Barcelona, as
+it was utterly impossible to get to Madrid on account of the King
+having put an Embargo on every Conveyance, which is easily done as the
+Conveyances are bad as the roads and difficult to meet with, as well as
+enormously dear, we determined to steer for Gibraltar by Sea, and
+accordingly took passage on an English brig, which was to stop on the
+Coast for fruit we took on board. The Voyage was uncommonly long, and we
+met with every Species of weather, during which I had the pleasure of
+witnessing a very interesting Collection of Storms, with all the
+concomitant circumstances such as Splitting Sails and Shipping Seas, one
+of which did us considerable mischief, staving in all the starboard
+quarter boards, filling and very nearly carrying away the long-boat,
+drowning our live Stock, and, of course, ducking us all on deck most
+thoroughly. We stayed a week at Denia, a small but beautiful Town on the
+south part of the K. of Valencia. We were fortunately put on shore here
+in the night of December 6th. I say fortunately, as in consequence of a
+very strong Levanter the Captn. was for some hours in doubt whether he
+should not be under the necessity of running through the straits and
+carrying us to England, which was very near happening. Italy I have
+quite given up for the present. Rome and Naples I lament not to have
+seen, but you know that from Leghorn I turned to the westward in
+Compliance with Hussey's wish, who was anxious to be near Lisbon. We
+have some idea of going from this place thro' Malaga to Granada, and
+soon after we return proceed to Cadiz, and after making some excursions
+from thence go on to Lisbon. Your letter which you promised to send to
+Madrid will, I fear, never reach me, tho' I have still hopes of paying
+that Capital a visit. At Lisbon I shall arrive, I should think, about
+March, and hope to be in England about May, or perhaps sooner. At Lisbon
+I hope to find a letter from you; the direction is Jos. Lyne & Co. I
+have been very unfortunate in not finding some friends in the Garrison,
+the only officer to whom I had a letter whom I found here has been of
+little Service to us. I have, however, made the best use of my time and
+have been over the greatest part of this extraordinary Fortress, but
+shall leave the description of it, as well as of an infinity of other
+things, till we meet, which shall be very soon after my arrival in
+England. I must send this instantly or wait for the next Post day, so I
+shall conclude rather hastily. My best Love to Mrs. S. and Believe me,
+
+Yours sincerely,
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Sheffield
+
+Walker & Boutall, ph. sc.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL
+
+News of the Emperor's fall--Foreign plans--Disquieting
+rumours--Madame de Sta�l--London in an uproar--Emperors and
+Kings--Hero-worship at close quarters.
+
+1814.
+
+
+The sudden rupture of the Peace of Amiens in May, 1803, closed France to
+Englishmen, except to the miserable eight or nine thousand who were in
+the country at the time, and were forcibly detained there by orders of
+the First Consul. It was not until eleven years later, in April, 1814,
+when Napoleon had abdicated, and when the allies had triumphantly
+entered Paris and restored Louis XVIII. to the throne of his fathers,
+that peaceful British travellers could cross the frontier once more.
+
+The busy parish life which had occupied Edward Stanley during the years
+which had elapsed since his first visit to France had not made him less
+keen for travel than he had been in his college days, and all his ardour
+was aroused by the news that there was to be an end to Napoleon's rule.
+
+The excitement caused by the rumour of the capture of Paris and the
+deposition of the Emperor may be guessed at by a letter received at
+Alderley from Lord Sheffield, father of Lady Maria Stanley, in the
+spring of 1814.
+
+
+_Letter from Lord Sheffield._
+
+PORTLAND PLACE, _April 6, 1814_.
+
+...I am just come from the Secretary of State's Office. We are all
+gasping for further intelligence from Paris, but none has arrived since
+Capt. Harris, a very intelligent young man who was despatched in half an
+hour after the business was completed, but of course cannot answer half
+the questions put to him. He came by Flanders, escorted part of the way
+by Cossacks, but was stopped nearly a day on the road. Schwartzenberg
+completely out-generalled Buonaparte. An intercepted letter of the
+latter gave him notice of an intended operation. He instantly decided on
+the measures which brought on the capture of Paris. I suppose you know
+that King Joseph sent the Empress and King of Rome previously to
+Rambouillet. It is supposed that Buonaparte has fallen back to form a
+junction with some other troops. A friend of Marshal Beresford's[17] has
+just called here who lately had a letter from the Marshal which says
+that he is quite sure that Soult has not 15,000 men left, and that in
+sundry engagements and by desertion he has lost about 16,000 men. I
+have no letter from Sir Henry[18] or William Clinton[19] since I saw
+you, but I learn at the War Office that the latter was, on the 20th of
+last month, within ten days' march of the right wing of Lord
+Wellington's army.[20]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Further news soon followed, and the authentic accounts of the Emperor's
+abdication at Fontainebleau on April 11th, and of his banishment to
+Elba, made it certain that his power was broken.
+
+The Rector of Alderley was eager to seize the chance of viewing the
+wreck of Napoleon's Empire while the country was still ringing with
+rumours of battles and sieges, and he began to make plans to do so
+almost as soon as the French ports were open.
+
+His wife was as keen as himself, and it was at first suggested that Sir
+John and Lady Maria, as well as Mrs. Edward Stanley, should join the
+expedition; but the difficulties of finding accommodation, and the fears
+of the disturbed state of the country, made them abandon the idea, to
+their great disappointment.
+
+The following extracts from the correspondence of Lady Maria Stanley
+explain the reasons for the journey being given up by herself and her
+sister-in-law.
+
+They describe the feeling in England on the foreign situation, and also
+give a glimpse of the wayward authoress, Madame de Sta�l, who was just
+then on her way back to France after a banishment of ten years.
+
+
+_Lady Maria Stanley to her sister, Lady Louisa Clinton._
+
+ALDERLEY PARK, _April 30, 1814_.
+
+So the Parisian expedition is at an end for us, in convention, that is,
+for I think Edward will brave all difficulties, and with Ed. Leycester,
+taking Holland first on his way, make a fight for Paris if possible; but
+all who know anything on the subject represent the present difficulties
+as so great, and the probable future ones so much greater, that Kitty
+(Mrs. Ed. Stanley) has given up all thought of making the attempt this
+year.
+
+Lodging at Paris is difficult to be had, and there are even serious
+apprehensions of a scarcity of provisions there. Moreover, the wise ones
+would not be surprised if things were in a very unsettled and, perhaps,
+turbulent state for some months. This is Miss Tunno's information,
+confirmed by other accounts she has had from Paris.
+
+Madame Moreau's[21] brother means to return to prepare for her
+reception and the mode of travelling, and when all is arranged to come
+again to fetch her.
+
+There seems every reason to think another year preferable for a trip,
+especially as I have been making the same melancholy reflections as Cat.
+Fanshawe,[22] and feared there would not be one clever or agreeable
+person left in London a Twelve-month hence; my only comfort is the
+expectation that House rent will be very cheap, and that the said Cat.
+will be better disposed to take up with second best company for want of
+perfection, and that we may have more of her society.
+
+...All you say of the French nobility and their feelings is very true;
+but if they return with the sentiment that all the Senate who wish for a
+good constitution are "des coquins," which I very much suspect, I shall
+consider the emigrants are the greatest "coquins" of the two sets.
+
+Surely, all the very bad Republicans and terrorists are exterminated. I
+should like to see a list of the Constituent Assembly, with an account
+of what has become of each. I have been reading all the accounts we have
+of the Revolution from the beginning. When I begin I am as fierce a
+Republican as ever, and think no struggle too much for the purpose of
+amending such a government or such laws. By the time I come to /93,
+however, one begins to hesitate, but I rejoice most heartily the old
+times are not restored, and hope Louis means to be sincere and
+consistent with his good beginning.
+
+I return the "Conte de Cely," which is very entertaining and
+interesting, as no doubt speaking the sentiments of all the old
+nobility. I do not think France has seen the end of her troubles
+entirely. It is impossible the Senate and the Emigrants can sit down
+quietly together, but the former--the Marshals and the Generals--would
+be formidable if they had reason given them to doubt the security of
+Louis' acceptation of the Constitution. If the Bourbons share the
+sentiments of their nobles, will you not give me leave to think they are
+too soon restored?
+
+Miss Tunno is very intimate with Mdme. Moreau and a cousin of hers. All
+her accounts have been conformable with yours.
+
+
+_Lady Louisa Clinton to her sister, Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+To-day I sat an hour with Cat. Fanshawe, and was highly amused by the
+account she gave of Mme. de Sta�l bolting up to her while standing
+speaking to Lord Lansdowne and some others at Mrs. Marcet's,[23] and
+saying, "I want to be acquainted with you. They say you have written a
+minuet. I am not a judge of English poetry, but those who are told me
+it is very good. Is it printed?" This intolerable impertinence, which,
+however, she probably meant for condescension, so utterly overset Cat.,
+that she could find not a word to say, and treated the overture so
+coldly that nothing more came of it.
+
+I exhort Cat. to recollect that the woman was so notorious for excessive
+ill-breeding, that no particular affront was intended, and hoped she
+would not continue coy, as I long to hear something of this Lioness from
+one who can judge.
+
+Hitherto I have had no such luck. I hear the most exaggerated statements
+of the Baroness's absurdities, or of the necessity of her being one of
+every literary party.
+
+
+_Letter from Miss Catherine Fanshawe, after meeting Lord Byron and Mme
+de Sta�l at Sir Humphry and Lady Davy's._
+
+_Early Spring, 1814._
+
+I have just stayed in London long enough to get a sight of the last
+imported lion,[24] Mme de Sta�l; but it was worth twenty peeps through
+ordinary show-boxes, being the longest and most entertaining dinner at
+which I ever in my life was present. The party being very small, her
+conversation was for the benefit of all who had ears to hear, and even
+my imperfect organ lost little of the discourse--happy if memory had
+served me with as much fidelity; for, had the whole discourse been
+written without one syllable of correction, it would be difficult to
+name a dialogue so full of eloquence and wit. Eloquence is a great word,
+but not too big for her. She speaks as she writes; and upon this
+occasion she was inspired by indignation, finding herself between two
+opposite spirits, who gave full play to all her energies. She was
+astonished to hear that this pure and perfect constitution was in need
+of radical reform; that the only safety for Ireland was to open wide the
+doors which had been locked and barred by the glorious revolution; and
+that Great Britain, the bulwark of the World, the Rock which alone had
+withstood the sweeping flood, the ebbs and flows of Democracy and
+Tyranny, was herself feeble, disjointed, and almost on the eve of ruin.
+So, at least, it was represented by her antagonist in argument, Childe
+Harold, whose sentiments, partly perhaps for the sake of argument, grew
+deeper and darker in proportion to her enthusiasm.
+
+The wit was his. He is a mixture of gloom and sarcasm, chastened,
+however, by good breeding, and with a vein of original genius that makes
+some atonement for the unheroic and uncongenial cast of his whole mind.
+It is a mind that never conveys the idea of sunshine. It is a dark night
+upon which the lightning flashes. The conversation between these two
+and Sir Humphry Davy,[25] at whose house they met, was so animated that
+Lady Davy[26] proposed coffee being served in the eating-room; so we did
+not separate till eleven. Of course we had assembled rather late. I
+should not say "assembled," for the party included no guests except Lord
+Byron and myself in addition to the "Sta�l" quartette....
+
+As foreigners have no idea that any opposition to Government is
+compatible with general obedience and loyalty, their astonishment was
+unbounded. I, perhaps I only, completely relished all her reasonings,
+and I thought her perfectly justified in replying to the pathetic
+mournings over departed liberty, "Et vous comptez pour rien la libert�
+de dire tout cela, et m�me devant les domestiques!" She concluded by
+heartily wishing us a little taste of real adversity to cure us of our
+plethora of political health.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In consequence of the difficulties and dangers anticipated in the above
+letters Edward Stanley finally decided to take as his only travelling
+companion his young brother-in-law, Edward Leycester, who was just
+leaving Cambridge for the Long Vacation.
+
+Mrs. Stanley accompanied her husband and brother as far as London, in
+order to see the festivities held in honour of the State visit of the
+Allied Sovereigns to England in June, on their way from the Restoration
+ceremonies in France.
+
+Her letters to her sister-in-law during this visit describe some of the
+actors in the great events of the last few months and the excitement
+which pervaded London during their stay.
+
+
+_Mrs. Edward Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _Friday, June 13, 1814_.
+
+Edward went for his passport the other day, and was told he must go to
+the Alien Office, being taken for a Frenchman....
+
+I forgot yesterday to beg Sir John would write Edward an introduction to
+Lord Clancarty,[27] and anybody else he can think of at Paris or the
+Hague, and send them to him as soon as possible.
+
+We have been Emperor[28] hunting all morning. No, first we went to Mass
+with Miss Cholmondeley, and heard such music!
+
+Then with her to the Panorama of Vittoria, and since then we have been
+parading St. James's Street and Piccadilly. Oh! London for ever! Edward
+saw a whiskered man go into a shop, followed him, and accosted him, and
+it was a man just arrived with despatches for the Crown Prince, who was
+thankful to be shewn his way. There was a gentleman came up to talk to
+Miss Cholmondeley, and he had been living in the house with Lucien
+Bonaparte.[29]
+
+[Illustration: _H. Edridge A.R.A. Welt 1811_ _Emory Walker Ph. Sc._
+
+_Kitty Leycester--married Edward Stanley 1810._]
+
+Then Edward was standing in Hatchard's shop, and he saw a strange bonnet
+in an open landau, and there was the Duchess of Oldenburg[30] and her
+Bonnet, and her brother sitting by her in a plain black coat, and he
+gave himself the toothache running after the carriage.
+
+He saw, or fancied he saw, a great deal of character in the Duchess's
+countenance. I just missed this, but afterwards joined Edward, and
+walked up and down St. James's Street, trusting to Edward's eyes, rather
+than all the assurances we met with, that the Emperor was gone to
+Carlton House, and were rewarded by a sight of him in a quarter of an
+hour, which had sufficed him to change his dress and his equipage, and a
+very fine head he has. Such a sense of bustle and animation as there is
+in that part of the town! You and Sir John may, and I daresay will,
+laugh at all the amazing anxiety and importance attached to a glimpse of
+what is but a man after all; but still the common principles of sympathy
+would force even Sir John's philosophy to yield to the animating throng
+of people and carriages down St. James's Street, and follow their
+example all the time he was abusing their folly.
+
+
+_June 13, 1814._
+
+At half-past ten we started for the illuminations, and nearly made the
+tour of the whole town from Park Lane to St. Paul's in the open
+barouche.
+
+I cannot conceive a more beautiful scene than the India House; they had
+hung a quantity of flags and colours of different sorts across the
+street; the flutings and capitals of the pillars, and all the outlines
+of the buildings, marked out with lamps, so that it was much more like a
+fairy palace and a fairy scene altogether than anything else.
+
+The flags concealed the sky, and formed such a fine background to the
+brilliant light thrown on all the groups of figures.
+
+We did not get home till daylight. There was nothing the least good or
+entertaining in the way of inscriptions and transparencies, except a
+"Hosanna to Jehovah, Britain, and Alexander."
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _Wednesday, June, 1814_.
+
+Where did we go to be made fools of by the Emperor yesterday for four
+hours? We went with Miss Tunno, got introduced to a gentleman's tailor
+in Parliament Street, and looked out of his window; saw a shabby coach
+and six pass, full of queer heads, one of which was so like the prints
+of Alexander, and bowed so like an Emperor, that I must and will
+maintain it to have been him till I can receive positive proof that it
+was not. We saw, too, what they said was Bl�cher, but we could hear or
+see nothing but that something was wrapped up in furs. However, Edward
+was more fortunate, and came in for the real bows which the real Emperor
+made from the Pulteney Hotel window, and you and Sir John may laugh as
+you please at all the trouble we have taken to see--nothing.
+
+Nevertheless, though I was well disposed to kiss the Emperor and Prince,
+and all who contributed to disappoint the public expectation, it is
+certainly entertaining and enlivening to be in expectation of meeting
+something strange every corner you turn and every different report you
+hear. The Emperor has gone out this morning to look about at half-past
+nine, long before the Prince Regent called.
+
+They say he will sail in one of his own ships from Leith and may pass
+through Manchester. But after all, it is something like what Craufurd
+described being in Paris, to be hearing yourself in the midst of a
+great bustle with your eyes shut and unable to see what was going on
+round you.
+
+We talk of Monday se'enight for our separation. There is so much to be
+seen if one could but see it here, that Edward is in no hurry to be
+off....
+
+At Lady Cork's the other night Bl�cher was expected. Loud Huzzas in the
+street at length announced him, the crowd gathered round the door, and
+in walked Lady Caroline Lamb[31] in a foreign uniform! This I had from
+no less authentic and accurate a source than Dr. Holland, who was an
+eye-witness. She had been at the party in female attire, and seeing Lady
+Cork's anxiety to see the great man, returned home and equipped herself
+to take in Lady C. and Co.
+
+
+_Monday, 8 a.m., June 16th._
+
+Yesterday, after Church, we went to the Park. It was a beautiful day,
+and the Emperor may well be astonished at the population, for such a
+crowd of people I could not have conceived, and such an animated crowd.
+As the white plumes of the Emperor's guard danced among the trees, the
+people all ran first to one side and then to the other; it was
+impossible to resist the example, and we ran too, backwards and forwards
+over the same hundred yards, four times, and were rewarded by seeing the
+Ranger of the Forest, Lord Sydney, who preceded the Royal party, get a
+good tumble, horse and all. We saw Lord Castlereagh almost pulled off
+his horse by congratulations and huzzahs as loud as the Emperor's, and a
+most entertaining walk we had.
+
+We dined at Mr. Egerton's. Mr. Morritt[32] rather usurped the
+conversation after dinner, but I was glad of him to save me from the
+history of each lady's adventures in search of the Emperor or the
+illuminations. The Opera must have been a grand sight; it seems
+undoubted that the Emperor and Prince Regent, and all in the Royal box,
+rose when the Princess of Wales came in and bowed to her--it is supposed
+by previous arrangement. Lord Liverpool[33] declared that he would
+resign unless something of the sort was done.
+
+One man made forty guineas by opening his box door and allowing those in
+the lobbies to take a peep for a guinea apiece. We made an attempt on
+Saturday to get into the pit, but it was quite impossible. I would not
+for the world but have been here during the fever, although what many
+people complain of is very true, that it spoils all conversation and
+society, and in another day or two I shall be quite tired of the sound
+or sight of Emperors.
+
+The merchants and bankers invited the Emperor to dinner; he said he had
+no objection if they would promise him it should not exceed
+three-quarters of an hour, on which Sir William Curtis lifted up his
+hands and exclaimed, "God bless me!"
+
+He is tired to death with the long sittings he is obliged to undergo.
+The stories of him quite bring one back to the "Arabian Nights," and
+they could not have chosen a more appropriate ballet for him than "Le
+Calife Voleur."
+
+If he stayed long enough, he might revolutionise the hours of London.
+
+I was close to Bl�cher yesterday, but only saw his back, for I never
+thought of looking at a man's face who had only a black coat on.
+
+You may safely rest in your belief that I do not enjoy anything I see or
+hear without telling it to you, and you are quite right in your
+conjecture as to what your feelings would be here.
+
+I have thought and said a hundred times what a fever of impatience
+disappointment, and fatigue you would be in.... You are also right in
+supposing that you know as much or more of the Emperor than I do, for
+one has not the time nor the inclination to read what one has the chance
+of seeing all the day long, and it is so entertaining that I feel it
+quite impossible to sit quiet and content when you know what is going
+on.
+
+One person meets another: "What are you here for?" "I don't know. What
+are you expecting to see?" One says the Emperor is gone this way, and
+another that way, and of all the talking couples or trios that pass you
+in the street, there are not two where the word "Emperor" or "King" or
+"Bl�cher" is not in one, if not both mouths; and all a foxhound's
+sagacity is necessary to scent him successfully, for he slips round by
+backways and in plain clothes.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _June 17, 1814_.
+
+We were in high luck on Sunday in getting a private interview with the
+Cossacks, through some General of M.'s acquaintance. We saw their horses
+and the white one, 20 years old, which has carried Platoff[34] through
+all his engagements. They are small horses with very thick legs. The
+Cossacks themselves would not open the door of their room till luckily a
+gentleman who could speak Russian came up, and then we were admitted.
+
+There were four, one who had been thirty years in the service, with a
+long beard and answering exactly my idea of a Cossack; the others,
+younger men with fine countenances and something graceful and
+gentleman-like in their figure and manner. They were very happy to talk,
+and there was great intelligence and animation in their eyes. No wonder
+they defy the weather with their cloaks made of black sheepskin and
+lined with some very thick cloth which makes them quite impenetrable to
+cold or wet. Their lances were 11 feet long, and they were dressed in
+blue jacket and trousers confined round the waist with a leather belt,
+in which was a rest for the lance. I envied their saddles, which have a
+sort of pommel behind and before, between which is placed a cushion, on
+which they must sit most comfortably. We must see them on horseback to
+_have seen_ them, but we shall probably have an opportunity of seeing
+them again.
+
+
+_June 18, 1814._
+
+On returning from Miss Fanshawe's we saw a royal carriage in George
+Street at Madame Moreau's, and we waited to see the Emperor and the
+Duchess (of Oldenburg) get into the carriage. He was in a plain blue
+coat; she without her curious bonnet, so that I had a good view of her
+face, which I had the satisfaction of finding exactly what I wished to
+see. The extreme simplicity of her dress--she had nothing but a plain
+white gown and plain straw hat, with no ornament of any sort--and her
+very youthful appearance made me doubt whether it was really the
+Duchess; but it was.
+
+She is very little, and there is a strong expression of intelligence,
+vivacity, and youthful, unsophisticated animation in her countenance. I
+fancied I could see so much of her character in the brisk step with
+which she jumped into the carriage, and the unassuming, lively smile
+with which she bowed to the people.
+
+The Emperor looks like a gentleman--but a country gentleman, not like an
+Emperor. His head is very like R. Heber's. The Duchess allowed herself
+to be pleased and to express her pleasure at all the sights without the
+least restraint. She asks few questions, but those very pertinent. She
+is impatient at being detained long over anything, but anxious to
+silence those who would hence infer that she runs over everything
+superficially, without gaining or retaining real knowledge.
+
+At Woolwich she was asked if she would see the steam-engines. "No, she
+had seen them already, and understood them perfectly." As they passed
+the open door she turned her head to look at the machinery, and
+instantly exclaimed, "Oh, that is one of Maudesley's engines," her eye
+immediately catching the peculiarity of the construction.
+
+
+LONDON, _June 22, 1814_.
+
+In the middle of Edward's sermon at St. George's to-day somebody in our
+pew whispered it round that there was the King of Prussia[35] in the
+Gallery. I looked as directed, and fixed my eyes on a melancholy,
+pensive, interesting face, exactly answering the descriptions of the
+King, and immediately fell into a train of very satisfactory reflection
+and conjecture on the expression of his physiognomy, for which twenty
+minutes afforded me ample time. The King was the only one I had not
+seen, therefore this opportunity of studying his face so completely was
+particularly valuable. When the prayer after the sermon was concluded,
+my informer said the King was gone, when, to my utter disappointment, I
+beheld my Hero still standing in the Gallery, and discovered I had
+pitched upon a wrong person, and wasted all my observations on a face
+that it did not really signify whether it looked merry or sad, and
+entirely missed the sight of the real King, who was in the next pew.
+
+Nothing but his sending to offer Edward a Chaplaincy in Berlin for his
+excellent sermon can possibly console me, except, indeed, the _honour by
+itself_ of having preached before a King of Prussia, which can never
+happen again in his life.
+
+...The Duchess of Oldenburg took all the merchants by surprise the other
+day. They had no idea she was coming to their dinner; she was the only
+lady, and she was rather a nuisance to them, as they had provided a
+hundred musicians, who could not perform, as she cannot bear music.[36]
+She was highly amused at the scene and with their "Hip! Hip!"
+
+
+MONDAY, _June 23, 1814_.
+
+At our dinner Mr. Tennant came in late, with many apologies, but really
+he had been hunting the Emperor--waiting for him two hours at one place
+and two hours at another, and came away at last without seeing him at
+all.
+
+He said, in his dry way, that "Have you seen the Emperor?" has entirely
+superseded the use of "How do you do?"
+
+In the morning he had gone into a shop to buy some gloves, and whilst he
+was trying them on the shopman suddenly exclaimed, "Bl�cher! Bl�cher!"
+cleared the counter at a leap, followed by all the apprentices, and Mr.
+Tennant remained soberly amongst the gloves to make his own selection,
+for he saw nothing more of his dealers.
+
+Rooms are letting to-day in the City at 60 guineas a room, or a guinea a
+seat for the procession. Tickets for places to see it from White's to be
+had at Hookham's for 80 guineas; 50 have been refused.
+
+Your letter revived me after five hours' walking and standing, and
+running after reviews, &c.
+
+I did see the King of Prussia, to be sure, and the Prince, and the
+people climbing up the trees like the grubs on the gooseberry bushes,
+and heard the _feu de joie_, whose crescendo and diminuendo was very
+fine indeed, but altogether it was not worth the trouble of being tired
+and squeezed for.
+
+At the reception at Sir Joseph Banks's house last night the most
+interesting object of the evening was a sword come down from heaven on
+purpose for the Emperor! Let the Prince Regent and his garters and his
+orders, and the merchants and the aldermen and everybody hide their
+diminished heads! What are they and their gifts to the Philosophers'?
+
+This is literally a sword made by Sowerby from the iron from some
+meteoric stones lately fallen--of course in honour of the Emperor. There
+is an inscription on it something to this effect, but not so neat as
+the subject demanded, and it is to be presented to Alexander--who does
+not deserve it, by the by, for having entirely neglected Sir Joseph
+amongst all the great sights and great men, which has rather mortified
+the poor old man.
+
+
+LONDON, _Monday night_.
+
+They are off, and in spite of all my friends' predictions to the
+contrary, I am here.
+
+Edward went this morning to Portsmouth on his way to Havre, but the
+Havre packet is employed in pleasuring people up and down to see the
+ships. Not a bed is to be had in the place, so he has secured his berth
+in the packet, if he can find her, and get on board at night after her
+morning's excursions.
+
+Standing room is to be had in the streets for three shillings; seats are
+putting up in and for two miles out of the town; all the laurels cut
+down to stick upon poles; in short, everybody is madder there than in
+London.
+
+Can the English ever be called cool and phlegmatic again? It is really a
+pity some metaphysicianising philosopher is not here to observe,
+describe, and theorise on the extraordinary symptoms and effects of
+enthusiasm, curiosity, insanity--I am sure I do not know what to call
+it--en masse.
+
+One should have supposed that the great objects would have swallowed up
+the little ones. No such thing! they have only made the appetite for
+them more ravenous.
+
+The mob got hold of Lord Hill[37] in the Park at the review, and did
+literally pull his coat and his belt to pieces. He snatched off his
+Order of the Bath, and gave it to Major Churchill, who put it in the
+holster of his saddle, where he preserved it from the mob only by
+drawing his sword and declaring he would cut any man's hand off who
+touched it. Some kissed his sword, his boots, his spurs, or anything
+they could touch; they pulled hair out of his horse's tail, and one
+butcher's boy who arrived at the happiness of shaking his hand, they
+chaired, exclaiming, "This is the man who has shaken hands with Lord
+Hill!" At last they tore his sword off by breaking the belt and then
+handed it round from one to another to be kissed.
+
+My regret at not having been at White's is stronger than my desire to go
+was; it must have been the most splendid and interesting sight one could
+ever hope to see.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On Friday, June 27th, Edward Stanley and Edward Leycester finally set
+off and sailed from Portsmouth, all gay with festivities in honour of
+the Allied Sovereigns.
+
+Mrs. Stanley was left to spend the time of their absence at her father's
+house in Cheshire, but the keen interest with which she would have
+shared the journey was not forgotten by her husband.
+
+The events of the tour were minutely chronicled in his letters to her,
+and not only in letters, but in sketch books, filled to overflowing with
+every strange group and figure which met the travellers on their way,
+through countries which had been, although so near, prohibited for such
+a long time that they had almost the interest of unknown lands.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+STOKE, _July 4, 1814_.
+
+...That my curiosity may not catch cold in the too sudden transition
+from exercise to inaction, the Shropshire and Cheshire Heroes have
+followed me down here, and I have had the pleasure of seeing and hearing
+of the crowds going to touch (for that is the present fashion of seeing,
+or, to speak philosophically, _mode_ of _perception_) Lord Hill; and
+yesterday I met Lord Combermere and his Bride at Alderley, and a worthy
+Hero he is for Cheshire!
+
+A folio from Havre just arrived. I am very noble, very virtuous, and
+very disinterested--pray assure me so, for nothing else can console
+me--it is too entertaining to send one extract.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG
+
+French prisoners--Oldenburg bonnets--"Fugio ut Fulgor"--Soldiers of
+the Empire--Paris--A French hotel--A walk through Paris--Portrait
+of Madame de Sta�l--An English ambassador--The Louvre--French
+tragedy--The heights of Montmartre--Cossacks in the Champs
+Elys�es--�900 for substitute--Napoleon's legacies to his
+successor--A dinner at the English Embassy--Botany and
+mineralogy--Party at Madame de Sta�ls--A debate in the Corps
+L�gislatif--Malmaison--Elbowing the marshals--St Cloud and
+Trianon--The Catacombs.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Wife._
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+HAVRE, _June 26, 1814_.
+
+We have passed the Rubicon--nous voil� en France, all new, interesting,
+and delightful. I know not where or how to begin--the observations of an
+hour were I to paint in Miniature would fill my sheet; however, you must
+not expect arrangement but read a sort of higgledy-piggledy journal as
+things run through my head. I must pin them down like my Butterflies as
+they pass, or they will be gone for ever.
+
+At half-past four on Friday we sailed from Portsmouth, and saw the fleet
+in the highest beauty--amongst them all while they were under sail
+tacking, &c.; the delay has not been lost time. I should observe before
+I quit the subject of Portsmouth events, that the Emperor could not find
+time to sail about for mere amusement two days, this he left to the P.
+R.[38] He (the Emperor) and the Duchess of Oldenburg occupied themselves
+in visiting the Dockyards, Machinery, Haslar Hospital--in short,
+everything worthy the notice of enlightened beings....
+
+Our passengers were numerous, about 25 in a vessel of as many tons, with
+only six what they called regular sleeping-places.... But I had no
+reason to complain, our party was in many respects excellent--one, a
+jewel of no ordinary value, by name Mr. John Cross, of whom I must
+enquire more. I have seldom met with a man of more general and at the
+same time deep information; he seemed perfect in everything. Mineralogy,
+Antiquities, Chemistry, literature, human nature were at his fingers'
+ends, and most gentlemanly manners into the bargain....
+
+Amongst others we had three French officers, prisoners returning home.
+They had not met before that evening, but had you heard their
+incomparable voices when they sang their trios, you would have supposed
+they had practised together for years. Mr. John Cross alone surpassed
+them in their art. These gentlemen were certainly not _hostile_ to
+Bonaparte, but to gratify their musical taste they stuck at
+nothing--"God save the King," "Rule Britannia," "The Downfall of Paris"
+were chaunted in swift succession, and the following commencement of one
+of their songs will show the popular opinion of Bonaparte's campaign in
+Russia:--
+
+    "Quel est le Monarque qui peut
+         Etre si fou
+     Que d'aller � Moscou
+     Pour perdre sa grande arm�e?"
+
+A fair wind brought us in sight of the French coast early on Saturday.
+At 11 we were under the headland of Havre, and at 12 anchored in the
+bay, and were in an instant surrounded by chattering boatfuls who talked
+much but did nothing. On landing we were escorted to the Passport Office
+and most civilly received there; the difference, indeed, between public
+offices in England and France is quite glaring. Even the Custom house
+Officers apologised for keeping us waiting for the form of searching;
+and tho' the Underlings condescended to take a Franc or two, the Officer
+himself, when I offered money, turned away his head and hand and cried,
+"Ba, Ba, Non, Non," with such apparent sincerity that I felt as if I had
+insulted him by offering it....
+
+The whole process of getting our passports signed, &c., being over, we
+went to an Hotel. "Ici, gar�on, vite mettez Messieurs les Anglois �
+l'onzi�me," cried a landlady--and such a landlady! and up we scampered
+to the 5th storey (there are more still above us) and to this said, "No
+onzi�me." ...
+
+We lost no time in the evening in looking about us; the town is situated
+about two miles up the Seine on a sort of Peninsula surrounded with very
+regular and strong fortifications. Its docks are incomparable, and
+Bonaparte would have added still more to their magnificence, but now all
+is at a stand--the grass is quietly filling up spaces hitherto taken up
+by soldiers, Workmen, shot and guns; the numberless merchant vessels in
+a state of decay proved sufficiently the entire destruction of all
+trade; but what gave me particular satisfaction was the sight of a
+flotilla of Praams, luggers, intended for the invasion of England, all
+reposing in a happy progress to speedy putrefaction and decay. About a
+mile from the town on the hill is a beautiful village called St. Michel,
+where the Havre citizens have country houses. The town itself is as
+singular as heart can wish--indeed, I am firmly convinced that the
+difference between the towns of the Earth and Moon is not greater than
+that between those of England and France. I scarcely know how to
+describe it to you. Conceive to yourself a long street of immensely tall
+houses from 5 to 8 Stories, _huddled_, for huddling is the only word
+which can convey my meaning, and in truth their extraordinary height and
+narrow breadth seem rather the effect of compression than design....
+These houses are inhabited by various families of various occupations
+and tastes, so that each Storey has its own peculiar character--here you
+see a smart Balcony with windows to the ground, garnished above and
+below with the insignia of washing woman or taylor. They are built of
+all materials, though I think chiefly of wood (like our old Cheshire
+houses) and stucco; and, thanks to time and the filth and poverty of the
+people, their exterior assumes a general tint of pleasing dirty
+picturesque. This said dirt may have its advantages as far as the eye is
+concerned, but the nose is terribly assailed by the innumerable
+compounded Effluvias which flow from every Alley-hole and corner. For
+the people and their dress! who shall venture to describe the things I
+have seen in the shape of caps, hats and bonnets, cloaks and petticoats,
+&c.? There I meet a group of Oldenburg Bonnets broader and more loaded
+with flowers, bunches, bows, plumes than any we saw in London, and would
+you believe it I am already not merely getting reconciled but absolutely
+an admirer of them.
+
+Having passed the groups of bonnets I meet at the next moment a set of
+beings ycleped Poissardes, caparisoned with coverings of all sorts,
+shapes, and sizes--here flaps a head decorated with lappets like
+butterflies' wings--here nods a bower of cloth and pins tall and narrow
+as the houses themselves, but I must not be too prolix on any one
+particular subject.
+
+
+_Sunday._
+
+We have been to the great Church. It was full, very full, but the
+congregation nearly all female.
+
+There is certainly something highly imposing and impressive in that
+general spirit of outward devotion at least which pervades all ranks.
+Nothing can be finer than their music: we had a sermon, too, and not a
+bad one. The order of things is somewhat reversed. In England we wear
+white bands and black gown, here the preacher had black bands and white
+gown, and I fear the eloquence of St. Paul would not prevent the smiles
+of my hearers in Alderley Church were I to pop on my head in the middle
+of the discourse a little black cap of which I enclose an accurate
+representation.
+
+What shall I say of political feeling? I think they appear to think or
+care very little about it; the military are certainly dissatisfied and
+the Innkeepers delighted, but further I know not what to tell you; I am
+told, however, that the new proclamation for the more decent observance
+of Sunday, by forcing the Shopkeepers to shut up their shops during
+Mass, is considered a great grievance.....
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+ROUEN, _June 28, 1814_.
+
+Foolish people are those who say it is not worth while to cross the
+water for a week. For a week! why, for an hour, for a minute, it would
+be worth the trouble--in a glance a torrent of news, ideas, feelings,
+and conceptions are poured in which are valuable through life. We staid
+at Havre till Monday morning, and though a Cantab friend of Edward's, on
+bundling into his cabriolet, expressed his astonishment we would think
+of staying a day, when he had seen more than enough of the filthy place
+in an hour, we amused ourselves very well till the moment of
+departure....
+
+At 4 on Monday we stepped into the cabriolet or front part of our
+diligence, on the panels of which was written "Fugio ut Fulgor," and
+though appearances were certainly against anything like compliance with
+this notice, the result was much nearer than I could have conceived.
+Five horses were yoked to this unwieldy caravan--two to the pole, and
+three before, and on one of these pole horses mounted a Driver without
+Stockings in Jack Boots, crack went an enormous whip, and away galloped
+our 5 coursers. It is astonishing how they can be managed by such simple
+means, yet so it was; we steered to a nicety sometimes in a trot,
+sometimes in a canter, sometimes on a full gallop.
+
+The time for changing horses by my watch was not more than one
+minute--before you knew one stage was passed another was commenced; they
+gave us 5 minutes to eat our breakfast--an operation something like that
+of ducks in a platter, the dish consisting of coffee and milk with rolls
+sopped in it. The roads are incomparable--better than ours and nearly if
+not quite as good as the Irish. The country from Havre to Rouen is rich
+in corn of every description--there is nothing particular in the face
+of it, and yet you would, if awakened from a dream, at once declare you
+were not in England; in the first place there are no hedges--the road
+was almost one continuous avenue of apple-trees; the timber trees are
+not planted in hedgerows but in little clumps or groves, sometimes but
+generally rather removed from the road, and it is amongst these that the
+villages and cottages are concealed, for it is surprising how few in
+comparison with England are seen. The trees are of two
+descriptions--either trimmed up to the very top or cut off so as to form
+underwood. I did not observe one that could be called a branching tree;
+the finest beech we saw looked like a pole with a tuft upon it. The
+cottages are mostly of clay, generally speaking very clean, and coming
+nearer to what I should define a cottage to be than ours in England.
+
+You see no cows in the fields, they are all tethered by the road-side or
+other places, by which a considerable quantity of grass must be saved,
+and each is attended by an old woman or child. We passed through 2 or 3
+small towns and entered Rouen 8 hours after quitting Havre, 57 miles.
+Rouen, beautiful Rouen, we entered through such an avenue of noble
+trees, its spires, hills and woods peeping forth, and the Seine winding
+up the country, wide as the Thames at Chelsea.
+
+Such a gateway! I have made a sketch, but were I to work it up for a
+month it would still fall far short and be an insult to the subject it
+attempts to represent. If Havre can strike the eye of a stranger, what
+must not Rouen do? Every step teems with novelty and richness, Gothic
+gateways, halls, and houses. What are our churches and cathedrals in
+England compared to the noble specimens of Gothic architecture which
+here present themselves?... Rouen has scarcely yet recovered from the
+dread they were in of the Cossacks, who were fully expected, and all
+valuables secreted--not that they were absolutely without news from the
+capital: the diligence had been stopped only once during the three days
+after the Allies entered Paris. Till then they had proceeded _comme �
+l'ordinaire_, and the diligence in which we are to proceed to-night left
+it when Shots were actually passing over the road during the battle of
+Montmartre--how they could find passengers to quit it at such an
+interesting moment I cannot conceive; had I been sure of being eaten up
+by a Horde of Cossacks, I could not have left the spot.
+
+What an odd people the French are! they will not allow they were in
+ignorance of public affairs before the entrance of the Allies. "Oh no,
+we had the Gazettes," they say, and I cannot find that they considered
+these Gazettes as doubtful authorities. We have plenty of troops
+here--genuine veterans horse and foot; I saw them out in line yesterday.
+The men were soldier-like looking fellows enough, but one of our cavalry
+regiments would have trotted over their horses in a minute without much
+ceremony; the army is certainly dissatisfied. Marmont is held in great
+contempt; they will have it he betrayed Paris, and say it would be by no
+means prudent for him to appear at the head of a line when there was any
+firing. The people may or may not like their emancipation from tyranny,
+but their vanity--they call it glory--has been tarnished by the
+surrender of Paris, and they declare on all hands that if Marmont had
+held out for a day Bonaparte would have arrived, and in an instant
+settled the business by defeating the Allies. In vain may you hint that
+he was inferior in point of numbers (to say anything of the skill and
+merit of the Russians perhaps would not have been very prudent), and
+that he could not have succeeded. A doubting shake of the head,
+significant shrug of the shoulders, and expressive "Ba, Ba," explain
+well enough their opinions on the subject.
+
+I cannot conceive a more grating badge to the officers than the white
+cockade--the fleur de lys is now generally adopted in place of the N and
+other insignia of Bonaparte, but, excepting from some begging boys, I
+have never heard the cry of "Vive Louis XVIII.!" and then it was done, I
+shrewdly suspect, as an acceptable cry for the Anglois, and followed
+immediately by "un pauvre petit liard, s'il vous plait, Mons." We went
+to the play last night; the house was filthy beyond description, and the
+company execrable as far as dress went; few women, and those in their
+morning dress and Oldenburg Bonnets--the men almost all officers, and a
+horrid-looking set they were. I would give them credit for military
+talents; they all looked like chiefs of banditti--swarthy visages,
+immense moustachios, vulgar, disgusting, dirty, and ill-bred in their
+appearance.
+
+From all I hear the account of the duels between these and the Russian
+officers at Paris were perfectly correct.[39]
+
+I am just come in from a stroll about the town. Among the most
+interesting circumstances that occurred was the inspection of
+detachments of several regiments quartered there. I happened to be close
+to the General when he addressed some Grenadiers de la Garde Imp�riale
+on the subject of their dismissal, which it seems they wanted. They
+spoke to him without any respect, and on his explaining the terms on
+which their dismissal could alone be had, they appeared by no means
+satisfied, and when he went I heard one of them in talking to a party
+collected round him say, "Eh bien, s'il ne veut pas nous cong�dier, nous
+passerons." A man standing by told me a short time ago a regiment of
+Imperial Chasseurs when called upon to shout "Vive Louis XVIII.!" at
+Boulogne, to a man, officers included, cried "Vive Napoleon!" and I feel
+very certain that had the same thing been required to-day from the
+soldiers on the field, they would have acted in the same manner, and
+that the spectators would have cried "Amen."
+
+I heard abundance of curious remarks on the subject of the war, the
+peace, and the changes; they will have it they were not conquered. "Oh
+no." "Paris ne fut jamais vaincue--elle s'est soumise seulement!" I
+leave it to your English heads to define the difference between
+submission and conquest.
+
+Beef and mutton are 5d. per lb. here. Chickens 3s. the couple, though 24
+per cent. was probably added to me as an Englishman. Bread a 100 per
+cent. cheaper than in England--at least so I was informed by an
+Englishman in the commercial line. Fish cheap as dirt at Havre, 3 John
+Dorys for 6d.
+
+From Havre to Rouen, 57 miles, cost us �1 6s. for both; from thence to
+Paris, 107 miles, �2; our dinners, including wine, are about 4s. a head;
+breakfast 2s., beds 1s. 6d. each.
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+PARIS, _June 30th_.
+
+Here we arrived about an hour ago; for the last two miles the country
+was a perfect garden--cherries, gooseberries, apple-trees, corn,
+vineyards, all chequered together in profusion; in other respects
+nothing remarkable....
+
+The first sight of Paris, or rather its situation, is about 10 miles
+off, when the heights of Montmartre, on one side, and the dome of the
+H�pital des Invalides on the other reminded us of their trophies and
+disasters at the same time....
+
+[Illustration: OLD BRIDGE AND CH�TELET.
+
+_Paris July 4, 1814_
+
+_To face p. 108._
+
+Now you must enter our rooms in l'H�tel des Etrangers, rue du Hazard, as
+I know you wish to see minutely. First walk, if you please, into an
+antechamber paved with red hexagon tiles (dirty enough, to be sure), and
+the saloon also, into which you next enter through a pair of folding
+doors. This saloon is in the genuine tawdry French style--gold and
+silver carving work and dirt are the component features. It is about 20
+feet square, plenty of chairs, sofas of velvet, and so forth, but only
+one wretched rickety table in the centre. Two folding doors open into
+our bedroom, which is in furniture pretty much like the rest; the beds
+are excellent--fitted up in a sort of tent fashion--and mine has a
+looking-glass occupying the whole of one side, in which I may at leisure
+contemplate myself in my night-cap, for I cannot discover for what other
+purpose it was placed there.
+
+Now let us take a walk--put on thick shoes or you will find yourself
+rather troubled with the paving stones, for nothing like a flagged
+footpath exists; a slight inclination from each side terminates in a
+central gutter, from which are exploded showers of mud by the passing
+carriages and cabriolets. You must get on as you can; horse and foot,
+coaches and carts are jumbled together, and he who walks in Paris must
+have his eyes about him. The streets are in general narrow and
+irregular, and so much alike that it requires no small skill to find
+one's way home again. Ariadne in Paris would wish for her clue. First we
+ascended the bronze column[40] in the Place de Vend�me--figure to
+yourself a column perfect in proportions much resembling Nelson's in
+Dublin, ornamented after the plan of Trajan's pillar--all of bronze, on
+which the operations of the wars and victories in Germany are recorded.
+Bonaparte's statue crowned it, but that was removed. The column itself,
+however, will remain an eternal statue commemorating his deeds, and
+though the Eagles and letter N are rapidly effacing from every quarter,
+this must last till Paris shall be no more. From the top of this pillar
+you of course have a magnificent view, and it must have been a choice
+spot from whence to behold the fight of Montmartre. It will scarcely
+interest you much to say much about the other public buildings, suffice
+it to say that all the improvements are in the very best
+style--magnificent to the last degree; they may be the works of a
+Tyrant, but it was a Tyrant of taste, who had more sense than to spend
+120,000 Louis in sky-rockets. His public buildings at least were for the
+public good, and were ornaments to his capital.
+
+But let us turn from inanimate to living objects; since I penned the
+last line I have been sitting with Mme. de Sta�l.... By appointment we
+called at 12.[41] For a few moments we waited in a gaudy drawing-room;
+the door then opened and an elderly form dressed _� la jeunesse_
+appeared; she is not ugly; she is not vulgar (Edward begs to differ from
+this opinion, he thinks her ugly beyond measure); her countenance is
+pleasing, but very different from anything my fancy had formed; a pale
+complexion not far from that of a white Mulatto, if you will allow me to
+make the bull; her eyebrows dark and her hair quite sable, dry and crisp
+like a negro's, though not quite so curling. She scarcely gave me time
+to make my compliments in French before she spoke in fluent English. I
+was not sorry she fought under British colors, for though she was never
+at a loss, I knew I could express and defend myself better than had she
+spoken in French. I hurried her as much as decency would permit from one
+subject to another, but I found politics were uppermost in her
+thoughts.... She was equally averse to both parties--to the royal
+because she said it was despotism; the Imperial because it was tyranny.
+"Is there," said I, "no happy medium; are there none who can feel the
+advantages of liberty, and wish for a free constitution?" "None," said
+she, "but myself and a few--some 12 or 15--we are nothing; not enough to
+make a dinner party." I ventured to throw in a little flattery--I knew
+my ground--and remarked that an opinion like hers, which had in some
+measure influenced Europe, was in itself an host; the compliment was
+well received, and in truth I could offer it _conscientiously_ to pay
+tribute to her abilities.
+
+On leaving Mme. de S. we paid another visit. From the greatest woman we
+went to see our greatest man in Paris, Sir Charles Stuart,[42] to whom
+Lord Sheffield had given me a letter of introduction. This had been sent
+the day before, and of course I now went to see the effect. After
+waiting in the Anti-chamber of the great man for about half an hour, and
+seeing divers and sundry faces pass and repass in review, we were
+summoned to an audience. We found a little, vulgar-looking man, whom I
+should have mistaken for the great man's butler if he had not first
+given a hint that he was bon� fide the great man himself. I think the
+conversation was nearly thus: E. S.: "Pray, Sir, are the Marshalls in
+Paris, and if so is it easy to see them?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I
+don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir, is there anything interesting to a
+stranger like myself likely to take place in the course of the next
+fortnight?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir,
+is the interior of the Thuilleries worth seeing, and could we easily see
+the apartments?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." This, I do
+assure you, was the cream of the conversation. Now certainly a great man
+ought to look wise and say he does not know so and so, when in fact he
+knows all about it, but somehow or other I could not help thinking that
+Sir Charles spoke the truth, for if I may draw any inference from
+Physiognomy, I never saw a face upon which the character of "upon my
+soul I don't know" was more visibly stamped. I left my card, bowed, and
+retired....
+
+I next turned my eyes to the Louvre.[43] What are the exhibitions of
+London, modern or ancient? What are Lord Stafford's, Grosvenor's,
+Angerstein's, &c., in comparison with this unrivalled gallery? Words
+cannot describe the coup d'oeil. Figure to yourself a magnificent room so
+long that you would be unable to recognise a person at the other
+extremity, so long that the perspective lines terminate in a point,
+covered with the finest works of art all classed and numbered so as to
+afford the utmost facility of inspection; no questions asked on
+entering, no money to be given to bowing porters or butlers, no cards of
+admission procured by interest--all open to the public view, unfettered
+and unshackled; the liberality of the exhibition is increased by the
+appearance of Easels and desks occupied by artists who copy at leisure.
+It is noble and grand beyond imagination. In the Halls below are the
+Statues, arranged with equal taste, though, as they are in different
+rooms, the general effect is not so striking. I recognised all my old
+friends, the Venus de Medicis was alone new to me. She is sadly
+mutilated, but is still the admiration of all persons of sound judgment
+and orthodox taste, amongst whom, I regret to say, I deserve not to be
+classed, as I really cannot enter into the merits of statues, and the
+difference between a perfect and moderate specimen of sculpture appears
+to me infinitely less than between good and moderate paintings....
+
+After dining at a Restaurateur's, who gave us a most excellent dinner,
+wine, &c., for about 3s. a head, we went to the Th��tre Fran�ais, or the
+Drury Lane of Paris. We expected to see Talma[44] in M�rope, but his
+part was taken by one who is equally famous, Dufour, and the female part
+by Mme. Roncour. She was intolerable, though apparently a great
+favourite; he tolerable, and that is all I can say. In truth, French
+tragedy is little to my taste.... The best part of the play was the
+opportunity it afforded "les bonnes gens" de Paris to show their
+loyalty, and much gratified I was in hearing some enthusiastic applause
+of certain passages as they applied to the return of their ancient
+sovereign. There is something very sombre and vulgar in the French
+playhouses with the men's boots and the women's bonnets. Could I in an
+instant waft you from the solitudes of Stoke to the clatter of Paris,
+how you would stare to see the boxes filled with persons almost
+extinguished in their enormous casques of straw and flowers. I have seen
+several bearing, in addition to other ornaments, a bunch of 5 or 6
+lilies as large as life....
+
+[Illustration: POMP. NOTRE DAME.
+
+_Paris, July 11, 1814._
+
+_To face p. 115._]
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+PARIS, _July 8, 1814_.
+
+You will take for granted we have seen all the exhibitions, libraries,
+&c., of Paris; they will wait for more ample description--a glance on
+one or two will be sufficient.
+
+L'H�pital des Invalides was, you know, famous for its magnificent dome,
+which was decorated with flags, standards, and trophies of the
+victorious arms of France; impatient to shew them to Edward, I hastened
+thither, but alas, not a pennant remains. On the near approach of the
+Allies they were taken down, and some say burnt, others buried, others
+removed to a distance. I asked one of the Invalides whether the Allies
+had not got possession of a few. With great indignation and animation he
+exclaimed, "Je suis aussi s�r que je suis de mon existence qu'il n'out
+pas pris un _seul_ m�me."
+
+On Sunday last, after having hunted everywhere for a Protestant church,
+one of which we found at last by some blunder quite empty, we went with
+our landlord, a serjeant in the national guard, to inspect the heights
+of Chaumont, Belleville, and Mt. Martre.... We ascended from the town
+for about 3 miles to a sort of large rambling village, in situation and
+circumstances somewhat like Highgate. This was Belleville, whose heights
+run on receding from Paris a considerable distance, but terminate rather
+abruptly in the direction of Mont Martre, from which they are separated
+by a low, swampy valley containing all the dead horses, filth, and
+exuvious putrefactions of Paris.... Immediately below, extending for
+many miles, including St. Denis and other villages, are fine plains;
+upon which plains about 3 in the morning the Russians deployed, and the
+Spectacle must have been interesting beyond measure.... On the heights
+and towards the base were assembled part of Marmont's[45] army with
+their field pieces and some few heavier guns; there, too, were stationed
+the greater part of the students of l'Ecole Polytechnique, corresponding
+to our Woolwich cadets. Nothing could surpass their conduct when their
+brethren in arms fled; they clung to their guns and were nearly all
+annihilated. I was assured that their bodies were found in masses on the
+spot where they were originally stationed; their number was about
+300.... I met a few in the course of the day who were, like ourselves,
+contemplating the field of battle, and who spoke like the rest of their
+countrymen of the baseness of Marmont and treachery of the day. The
+cannonade must have been pretty sharp while it lasted, as about 5,000
+Russians perished before they got possession of the heights--though the
+actual operation of storming did not occupy half an hour--but their
+lines were quite open to a severe fire of grape from eminences
+commanding every inch of the plain. Whilst this work was going on at
+Belleville, another Russian column performed a similar service at Mt.
+Martre, which is nearer Paris--in fact, immediately above the
+Barriers.... Thither our guide next conducted us, and pointed out the
+particular spots where the assault and carnage were most desperate. A
+number of Parties were walking about and all talking of the battle or
+Bonaparte.... Till this day I had never heard him openly and honestly
+avowed, but here I had several opportunities of incorporating myself in
+groups in which his name was bandied about with every invective which
+French hatred and fluency could invent. Their tongues, like Baron
+Munchausen's horn, seemed to run with an accumulated rapidity from the
+long embargo laid upon them. "Sacr� gueux, b�te, voleur," &c., were the
+current coin in which they repaid his despotism, and I was happy to find
+that his conduct in Spain was by all held in utter detestation and
+considered as the ground work of his ruin.
+
+I saw one party in such a state of bodily and mental agitation that I
+ran up expecting to see a battle, but the multiplicity of hands, arms,
+and legs which were rising, falling, wheeling, and kicking, were merely
+energetic additions to the general subject.... The National guard were
+not (with few exceptions) actually engaged. To the amount of 36,000 they
+occupied the towns and barriers, by all accounts guessing, or, as one
+intelligent conductor assured us, very certain that they would not be
+called upon to fight much for the defence of Paris.... Indeed, from all
+I have been able to learn, and from all I have been able to see, it
+appears pretty clear that no serious defence was intended--a little
+opposition was necessary for the look of the thing. And although Marmont
+might have done more, I feel convinced that had he exerted himself to
+the utmost, Paris must have perished.
+
+The heights were defended in a very inadequate and unsoldierlike manner;
+not a single work was thrown up before the guns, no entrenchments, no
+bastions, and yet with three days' notice all this might have easily
+been done. The barriers all round Paris were, and still are, hemmed
+round with Palisades with loop holes, each of which might have been
+demolished by half a dozen rounds from a 6-pounder; the French, indeed,
+laugh at them and consider them as mere divertissements of Bonaparte's,
+and feeble attempts to excite a spirit of defence amongst the people--a
+spirit which, fortunately for Europe, was never excited. The lads of
+Paris had determined to take their chance and not to do one atom more
+than they were called upon or compelled to do. These wooden barriers
+are made of le bois de tremble (aspen), and the pun was that the
+fortifications "tremblaient partout." You will like to hear something of
+Edgeworth's friend, St. Jean d'Ang�ly;[46] he came up to the barrier
+where our landlord (who had been formerly an imperial guardsman and
+fought in the battle of Marengo) was posted; here he called loudly for
+some brandy, for which he got laughed at by the whole line of guard; he
+then sallied forth and proceeded a short distance, when his horse took
+fright, and as St. Jean was, as our landlord told us, "enti�rement du
+m�me avis avec son cheval," they both set off as fast as they could, and
+were in a few minutes far beyond all danger, nor did they appear again
+amid the din of arms. The fate of Paris was decided with a rapidity and
+sang-froid quite astonishing. By 5 o'clock in the Evening all was
+entirely at an end, and the national guard and allies incorporated and
+doing the usual duty of the town. They were, indeed, under arms a little
+longer than usual, and a few more sentries were placed and the theatre
+not open that Evening, but that single evening was the only exception,
+and the next day the Palais Royal was as brilliant and more cheerful
+than ever, with its motley groups of visitors. The Cossacks were not
+quartered in the Palais Royal, they were in the Ch. Elys�es, the trees
+of which bear visible marks of their horses' teeth, but a good many came
+in from curiosity and hung their horses in the open space of the
+Palais.... The Russian discipline was most severe, and not an article
+was taken from any individual with impunity, immediate death was the
+punishment. The field of battle bore few marks of the event--a few
+skeletons of horses and rags of uniforms; the more surprising thing is
+that, notwithstanding all the trampling of horse and foot on the plains
+below so late as the end of March, the corn has not suffered in the
+slightest degree. I wish the Alderley crops were as good.
+
+You have no idea of the severity of the conscription. That men can be
+attached to a being who dragged them, with such violence to every
+feeling, from their homes would be astonishing, but for the well-known
+force of the "selfish principle" which amalgamates their glory with his.
+A friend of our landlord's paid at various times 18,000 fr., about �900;
+he thought himself safe, but Bonaparte wanted a Volunteer guard of
+honour; he was told it would be prudent to enroll himself, which in
+consideration of the great sums he had paid would be merely a nominal
+business, and that he would never be called upon. He did put his name
+down; was called out in a trice and shot in the next campaign. Our
+waiter at Rouen assured me his friends had bought him off by giving in
+the first instance �25 for a substitute, with an annuity to the said
+substitute of an equal sum--pretty well this, for a poor lad of about
+16.
+
+Thanks to our landlord and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we might have been
+introduced into the Thuilleries, but came too late. We lost nothing, as
+after Mass the King marched through a beautiful sort of Glass gallery
+facing the Thuilleries Gardens, and then came out into a Balcony to shew
+himself to the crowd there assembled! he was received with universal and
+loud applause. "Vive le Roi!" was heard as loud as heart could wish,
+hats, sticks and handkerchiefs were flying in all directions. When he
+entered Paris, in one of the Barriers a sort of Archway was made and so
+contrived that as the carriage passed under a crown fell upon it, a band
+at the same time striking up "O� peut on �tre mieux que dans le sein de
+sa famille," which is, you know, one of their favourite airs.
+
+Poor man, he has enough to do, and will, I fear, experience a turbulent
+reign. Bonaparte has left his troops 3 years in arrears, the treasury
+empty, two parties equally clamourous for places and pensions, both of
+which must be satisfied. Their taxes are heavier than I thought they
+were. Our landlord has an estate worth about 2,000 frcs., his father
+paid 200 fr. a year for it, and he is now under the necessity of paying
+1,200, having only a clear surplus of 800, and the finances are at too
+low an ebb to allow of any immediate reduction in their taxes....
+
+To take things in their course, I must now proceed to my dinner at Sir
+Charles Stuart's. I was shewn into a room where I found three or four
+Englishmen gaping at one another. Before many more had assembled, in
+came Sir C., and I _believe_, or rather I am willing to flatter myself,
+he made a sort of half bow towards us, and then we stood and gaped
+again; a few more words between him and one or two who were to go to
+Court the day after, but to me and some others not a syllable of any
+description was uttered, and when some more English were shewn in who
+were, I presume, as respectable as myself, his behaviour was quite
+boorish, he did not condescend to look towards the door. These things
+went on till a throng of Spaniards with Stars and orders came in; with
+these he appeared tolerably intimate, and also with three Englishmen who
+afterwards appeared. We were about 24 in number, and all I had to do in
+the half-hour preceding dinner was to look out for the most intelligent,
+gentleman-like-looking Englishman I could, to secure a place by him....
+
+You will ask who I met. I protest to you that I went and returned
+without being able to learn more than that the secretary's name was
+Bidwell, and that one other person in company was a Mr. Martin, who had
+been agent for prisoners; of the rest I knew nothing, not even of my
+neighbour; birth, parentage, and education were alike involved in the
+cloud of diplomatic mystery which seemed to impend heavily over this
+mansion, and when my neighbour asked me, or I asked him, the names of
+any person present the answer was mutual--"I don't know." Sir Charles
+sat in the centre with a gold-coated Don on each side of him, with whom
+he might have whispered, for though I sat within two of his Excellency,
+I never heard the sound of his voice: however, my opinion may not
+coincide with all that pass from Calais to Dover, as I heard one man
+remark to another that his countenance was very pleasing, to which was
+added in reply, "and he is a very sensible man." These things may be,
+but I never met with one more perfect in the art of concealing his
+talents.
+
+Now for the Jardin des Plantes and its lectures. This same Jardin is a
+large space appropriated to Botanical pursuits, public walks,
+menageries, museums, &c. There you see Bears and Lions and, in fact, the
+finest collection of Birds and Beasts alive, some in little paddocks,
+others in clean and airy dens. But this is the least part of this
+delightful establishment; its museums and cabinets are like the Louvre,
+the finest collection in the world. Everything is arranged in such order
+that it is almost impossible to see it without feeling a love of
+science; here the mineralogist, geologist, naturalist, entomologist may
+each pursue his favourite studies unmolested. Here, as everywhere else,
+the utmost liberality is shewn to all, but to Englishmen particularly,
+your country is your passport. Like the mysterious "Open Sesame" in the
+Arabian nights, you have only to say, "Je suis Anglais" and you go in
+and out at pleasure. I have seen Frenchmen begging in vain with ladies
+and officers of the party and turned away because they had happened on
+the wrong day or hour, and then we, without solicitation, have been
+desired to walk in. But all these museums and living animals, curious
+and interesting as they are, are surpassed by the still greater
+liberality shewn in the daily lectures given by the members of the
+Institute or Professors of the several sciences. I have attended
+Haiiy,[47] Dum�ril,[48] l'Ettorel, du Mare, and others upon Mineralogy,
+Nat. Hist., and Entomology, and Haiiy, you know, is the first
+mineralogist in Europe, and I never looked upon a more interesting
+being. When he entered the lecture room, every one rose out of respect,
+and well they might. He is 80 years of age apparently, with a most
+heavenly patriarchal countenance and silver hair; his teeth are gone, so
+that I could not understand a word he said, though, indeed, had he been
+possessed of all the teeth in Christendom I apprehend I should not have
+been much wiser, as he lectured on the angular forms of the Amphiboles.
+He looked like a man picked out of a crystal, and when he dies he ought
+to be reincarnated and placed in his own museum.
+
+Another Scene to which I found my way was equally interesting: I went to
+a lecture on Iconographic drawing, or Science, as it was called, of
+representing natural subjects. In other words, when I got there I found
+it was a professorship of drawing, everything connected with Nat. Hist.,
+such as flowers, animals, insects; and the Professor lectures one day
+and practically instructs on another. I happened to be present at one
+of the latter. Conceive my surprise at finding myself in a large library
+filled with tables, drawing books, ladies and gentlemen all sketching
+either from nature or excellent copies here. As it was not a public day
+except to those who wished to attend for instruction, I ought not with
+propriety to have intruded, but "J'�tais Anglois" and every attention
+was paid. You would have given a little finger to have seen the room; it
+was a hot summer's day, but there all was cool and fragrant; the windows
+opened on the gardens, the tables were covered with groupes of flowers
+in vases; the company, about 40, were seated up and down where ever they
+chose, each with a nice desk and drawing board--in short, it was a scene
+which excited feelings of respect for a nation which thus patronised
+everything which could add to the rational improvement of its members.
+Were France the seat of religion and pure virtue it would be Utopia
+verified; but, alas! there are spots which stain the picture and cast a
+balance decidedly in favour of England: we are rough, we are
+narrow-minded, but he who travels is brought to confess and say
+"England! with all thy faults I love thee still." ...
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+PARIS, _July 10th_.
+
+Madame de Sta�ls party formed a fine contrast to the gloom and
+ponderosity of Sir Charles Stuart's dinner the day before. We went a
+quarter before nine, thinking, as it was the nominal hour, it would be
+ill-bred to go too early, but the French are more punctual in these
+matters, for we found the good people all assembled and Marmont[49]
+walked out not five minutes before we walked in.
+
+In his stead we had General Lafayette,[50] the cornerstone of the
+Revolution. He is a tall, clumsy-made man, not much unlike Dr.
+Nightingale, tho' rather thinner. His countenance discovers thought and
+sound judgment, but by no means quickness or brilliancy; his manners
+were quiet, unassuming, and gentleman-like. He spoke little, and then
+said nothing particularly worth notice.
+
+The next lion announced was a lioness, the celebrated Madame
+R�camier,[51] and though she is not in her premi�re jeunesse, I can
+easily conceive how she could once dazzle the world. It would be too
+much to give her credit for superior talents, but her manners were very
+agreeable tho' rather like all other belles of France who have fallen in
+my way, somewhat � la languissante. But I am all this while forgetting
+the star of the evening, the Baroness herself. She sat in a line with
+about six ladies, before whom were arranged as many gentlemen, all
+listening to the oracular tongue of their political Sybil.
+
+She was in high spirits because she had been warmed up by the decision
+of the court and commons concerning the liberty of the press, which had
+received an effectual check by limiting all liberty of speech and
+opinion to works containing not less than 480 pages, thus excluding the
+papers and pamphlets. The moment we were announced, before she asked me
+how I did, she enquired whether I had heard this notable decision, and
+then demanded what I thought of it. Of course, I assured her how much I
+lamented the prospect of an inundation of dull, prolix books to which
+France was thus inevitably exposed. This, as we spoke in English, she
+immediately translated for the benefit of the company, adding "Ce
+Monsieur Anglois dit cela, et c'est bien vrai il a raison," and then she
+laughed and seemed to enjoy the catalogue of stupid books which might be
+anticipated.
+
+I must confess the party was a little formidable; in England I should
+have said formal, but there is something in French manners wholly
+foreign to any application of the word formal, and really after
+exchanging a few remarks I was glad to be introduced to her son[52] and
+daughter,[53] with both of whom I was much pleased. They are clever and
+agreeable. She is not above eighteen or twenty, and if her complexion
+was good would be very pretty. She was not shy, beginning conversation
+in a trice upon interesting subjects. She compared the English and
+French character, in which she (and I presume it was a maternal opinion)
+would not allow an atom of merit to the latter. On finding that I was a
+clergyman she immediately began upon Religion, talked of Hodgson,[54]
+Andrews, Wilberforce,[55] and then in questioning me about the
+Methodists (about whom she seemed to have heard much and entertained
+confused notions) we slid into mysticism, which carried us, of course,
+into the third vol. of "Allemagne"; she spoke in raptures of the mystic
+school, said she was quite one in heart--"Cela se peut," thought I; but
+somehow or other "Je ne le crois pas," for I have heard some little
+anecdotes of her mother, in which, whatever may be her theoretical views
+of mysticism, her practical opinions are rather more lax than F�nelon's.
+Much against my will I took my leave, willing to hope that Mme. S. spoke
+the truth when she said how glad she should be to see me if I visited
+Paris during the winter; she is off to Switzerland in a few days. The
+French say we have spoilt her--in fact, she occupies little of the
+public attention in Paris.
+
+The next event most interesting was our visit to the Corps L�gislatif,
+or House of Commons. We went to a certain door, to which we were refused
+admittance, and told it was too full or too late. But said I, "Nous
+sommes Anglois"; in an instant a man came up and placed us in an inner
+gallery in the body of the house. The House is something like the Royal
+Institution--of course larger and beautifully fitted up. Considering it
+as the Royal Institution for your better comprehension, the President
+sits on a tribunal throne in a recess corresponding to the fire-place;
+immediately below is a sort of Rostrum from whence the Members speak, in
+situation like the lecturer of the R.I. In point of decoration and
+external appearance both of house and members, it is far superior to our
+House of Commons, as all the members wear uniforms of blue and gold, but
+taking it all together I know not that anything can be more illustrative
+of the French Character--externally all correct and delightful, but
+within "a sad rottenness of the state of Denmark."
+
+The president began the proceedings by ringing a bell; a paper was then
+read detailing, I believe, the orders of the day. A member then arose
+and went to the Rostrum. In the middle of his speech he was called to
+order and told it was a very bad speech, so down he came and another
+mounted. He was equally disliked, for they told him he spoke too low and
+they could not hear him, so he disappeared; then half a dozen got up and
+were so impatient that they began speaking altogether before they
+reached the Tribune. In vain did the President ring his bell, and stand
+up and gesticulate. Silence, however, was at length obtained, and he
+addressed them, but with little better success than the rest. One man
+then stept forward and did obtain a hearing, for he had good lungs and a
+fair share of eloquence. His speech was short, but it was by far the
+best; his name was Dumolard.[56] Soon afterwards the sitting broke up;
+the whole took up little more than an hour. I know not whether the
+perfect want of order was more ridiculous or disgusting; the sittings of
+the Senate (Peers) are private....
+
+We will now take you to Malmaison, the interesting retreat of the
+interesting Jos�phine. Her character was scarcely known in England. We
+hear little more of her than as a discarded Empress or Mistress of
+Buonaparte's, but she had much to recommend her to public as well as
+private notice. The French all speak highly of her, and it is
+impossible, on seeing Malmaison and hearing of her virtues, not to join
+in their opinion. To be sure, as a Frenchman told me in running through
+a list of virtues, "Elle avait �t� un peu libertine, mais ce n'est rien
+cela," and, indeed, I could almost have added, "C'est bien vrai," for
+every allowance should be made; consider the situation in which she was
+placed, her education, her temptations; many a saint might have fallen
+from the eminence on which she stood; I never dwelt with more
+satisfaction or felt more inclined to coincide in that benevolent
+verdict of the best of judges of human nature and human frailty,
+"Neither do I condemn thee, go and sin no more," than in criticising the
+character of Jos�phine.
+
+[Illustration: MALMAISON]
+
+I am not sure whether you know exactly the history of Malmaison. The
+house and land attached to it were purchased by Buonaparte when First
+Consul, and given to Jos�phine, who made it what it is, and bought more
+land, so that it is now in fact a little Estate. On being divorced, she
+retired thither with Eug�ne Beauharnais, her son, and younger children.
+Her pursuits and occupations will be best understood by describing what
+we saw. I should say, before I proceed, that it required some interest
+to get in, and that we went with the Hibberts, who knew the secretary of
+the Swedish Ambassador, in whose suite we were incorporated for
+admission. The chief room in the house is what is called the Gallery A,
+planned and finished according to her own designs; the floor is a mass
+of dark inlaid marble, the ceiling arched and light admitted from it,
+the whole not much unlike the Gallery at Winnington on a much larger
+scale. It would be difficult to describe the fitting up of the interior.
+The walls are hung with the most exquisite selections from ancient
+Masters, not stolen, but many given to her, and the rest purchased by
+herself; but I was more struck by the statues than with any thing else.
+The dots represent them and their situations in the Gallery; they are
+chiefly by two modern artists, Canova and Boher, though I fear the
+reputation of my taste and judgment will suffer by the confession. I
+still must confess that I felt far more pleasure than in looking either
+upon Apollo or the Venus de Medicis. There was a Bust and Statue of
+herself, the latter particularly beautiful, and if accurate, which I was
+assured it was, the original must have been elegant and interesting to
+the last degree. It reminded me much of Lady Charlemont, with a stronger
+expression of sense. The rest of the room was furnished with tables
+inlaid with marble, upon which were a variety of bronzes, pieces of
+armour, &c., and her musical instruments were as she had left them, and
+everything wore an appearance of comfort which is seldom seen in the
+midst of such magnificence. Through folding doors you enter into a
+smaller room hung with pictures. C. was her chapel; before a little
+unostentatious altar, which had every appearance of having daily
+witnessed her devotions, was a beautiful Raphael; the walls were hung
+with seven small Scripture subjects by Poussin. I would have given a
+great deal to have been her invisible observer in this sacred
+retirement. She must have been alone, for it was scarcely large enough
+to admit priest or attendant.
+
+D. was a room in which she breakfasted, during which time music was
+generally performed in B. From E. was a fine view of the Aqueduct of
+Marly, and E. was the way to the Garden, which she had fitted up in the
+English style. I have not time to enter into detail of these or her
+greenhouses. She was fond of Society and patronised the Arts. She
+allowed Artists to sit at leisure in her gallery to copy pictures, and
+conversed with them a great deal. She did an infinity of good to all
+within her reach and was beloved by all. Her death was very sudden; she
+had complained of a sore throat, but not sufficiently to confine her to
+her room. On a certain Wednesday or Thursday she was in her Park in high
+spirits, showing it to the Emperor Alexander and King of Prussia; being
+rather heated she drank some iced water; in the evening she was worse,
+on Sunday she was dead, sensible to the last; talked of death, seemed
+perfectly resigned--to use the words of a French lady, who told me many
+interesting particulars, "sa mort �tait tr�s chr�tienne." They were
+busied in packing pictures and making catalogues, but I believe there is
+no fear of dismantling the house, as Eug�ne Beauharnais[57] and the
+children are to have it in conformity to her will.[58] I have seen few
+things since my departure from England which have interested me more
+than Malmaison, and I could almost fancy that her statue, which is that
+of a pensive female, with the chin resting on the hand, was her ghost
+ruminating over the extraordinary events which had recently occurred,
+and which she had quitted for ever. You will see Malmaison in my
+sketch-book, as well as the Castle of Vincennes, which is as picturesque
+and imposing as it is interesting, from the circumstances attending the
+Duke d'Enghien's[59] death. It seems this event was known at Paris the
+next day and spoken of with as much freedom as the despotic government
+of Paris would admit....
+
+I went yesterday to see the house of Peers in the Luxembourg. The Hall
+of sittings is not unlike that of the Corps L�gislatif, but the
+decorations are more interesting, each niche being filled with Austrian
+standards and a few others. Under a gilt dome, supported by similar
+pillars, was the spot where Napoleon's throne was _not_. The remnants I
+saw lying in one of the Ante-rooms, all of which were ornamented with
+immense pictures of the principal battles, but these, out of compliment
+to the Emperor, &c., had been covered over with green baize, even the
+very standards had been removed during the stay of the Emperor of
+Austria in Paris. There is a sitting on Tuesday, and if I stand at the
+door I may see the Marshals alight, but my curiosity would not be
+satisfied, as no persons seem to know them; even the man who shewed us
+the hall, who actually keeps the door thro' which they enter and sees
+them all constantly, assured me he did not know one from the other. He
+did not even know whether Marmont[60] had one arm or two.
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+PARIS, _July 11th_.
+
+Thanks to our Landlord, and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we have just been
+elbowing the Marshals, as a serjeant of the National Guard offered to
+take us into the Thuilleries, and in we went with him in full uniform,
+on the very best day we could have selected since our arrival in Paris,
+as a corps of about 10 or 15,000 men were to be reviewed by the King "en
+masse" in the Place de Carousel, immediately in front of the
+Thuilleries.
+
+We were stationed in a room of which I had heard much and wished above
+all things to see--"la Salle des Mar�chaux," so called from the
+full-length portraits of 18 of these gentlemen with which it is hung;
+the upper part of the room is surrounded by a gallery decorated with
+pictures of the chief battles--Lodi, Passage of the Po, and one sea
+piece descriptive of the capture of our Frigate, the _Ambuscade_, by a
+smaller vessel. It is so good a picture that for the sake of the
+painting I never thought of lamenting the subject.
+
+After standing in this Hall for a few minutes in the midst of Generals
+without number in full uniform, I had the satisfaction of being almost
+knocked over by Marshal Jourdan,[61] a sharp, queer-looking fellow not
+at all stamped with the features of a hero. I eyed him well, and had
+scarcely satiated my curiosity when half a dozen more came by, walking
+about without peculiar honors or attention, and only to be distinguished
+from the Generals by a broad red ribbon, worn like those of our Knights
+of the Bath.
+
+I looked at each and all, but as few could tell their names I was at a
+loss to distinguish one from another; my head and eyes were in a perfect
+fidget, flying from Marshal to Marshal and from Picture to Picture.
+
+Of the Ducs de Treviso,[62] de Conegliano,[63] Serurier,[64] and
+Perignan[65] I had no doubt, as I saw them again several times, but I am
+not sure that I should know the others except from a recollection of
+their pictures.
+
+I will describe a few while their countenances are fresh upon my memory.
+
+Ney[66] is a fine, handsome man, but remarkably fair with light curling
+hair, and struck us very like Mrs. Parker, of Astle.
+
+Duc d'Istria[67] was reckoned by Robert Hibbert like me--that is to say,
+he had dark arched eyebrows, a fox-like sort of countenance, very dark,
+almost swarthy, and from his extreme bilious appearance, I should
+imagine might be troubled, like myself, with bad headaches.
+
+Davoust![68] I can scarcely recall his portrait without shuddering. If
+ever an evil spirit peeped thro' the visage of a human being, it was in
+Davoust. Every bad passion seemed to have set its mark on his face:
+nothing grand, warlike, or dignified. It was all dark, cruel, cunning,
+and malevolent. His body, too, seemed to partake of his character. I
+should fancy he was rather deformed. I never saw so good a Richard III.
+Let him pass and make way for one of a different description,
+Victor,[69] a fine, open, gentlemanly countenance, tho' not like a
+military hero. Marmont, a dark haired, sharp-looking man of military
+stature. Duc de Dantzig,[70] very ugly and squinting. Berthier,[71]
+remarkably quiet and intelligent. Murat,[72] an effeminate coxcomb with
+no characteristic but that of self-satisfaction. Moncey, a respectable
+veteran. Mass�na,[73] the most military of all, dark hair and
+countenance, fine figure. Soult,[74] a stern soldier, vulgar but
+energetic; his mouth and lower part of his face like Edridge,[75] though
+not so large a man.
+
+The King was to me a very secondary person; however, I was close to him
+as he tottered, like a good old well-meaning man, to Mass. On his return
+he appeared, as I described last Sunday, in the balcony facing the
+gardens for a few minutes and was loudly cheered, and then he came back
+to the Salle des Mar�chaux and sat down in a fine chair of Bonaparte's,
+covered all over with his Bees, in a Balcony facing the Place de
+Carousel, from whence he looked down on the 10,000 troops who were there
+assembled. The shouts here were not what they ought to have been.
+Comparatively few cried "God bless him!" and I much fear the number who
+thought it was still less. The Duc de Berri,[76] on horseback with
+Marshal Moncey on one side and Du Pont[77] on the other, reviewed the
+troops, who passed in companies and troops before them. As each company
+passed the officer held up his sword and cried "Vive le Roi!" and some
+of the soldiers did the same, but not more than one out of ten.
+
+I heard an anecdote of the Duc de Berri which is, I hope, true. A few
+days ago in reviewing some troops on the Champs Elys�es an officer in
+passing chose to cry out, "Vive Napol�on!" upon which the Duc rode up
+to him, tore his Epaulette from his shoulder and order from his breast,
+threw them on the ground, and instantly dismissed him the service; this
+spirit pleased the soldiers, and they all shouted "Vive le Roi!"
+
+On Saturday we went to St. Cloud, Versailles, and the great and little
+Trianon. St. Cloud and the great Trianon were the especial residences of
+Buonaparte, and I looked at his bed and tables and chairs with some
+curiosity. I have not time to describe all these. I saw one public place
+yesterday which should be mentioned, a museum of models in every
+department of art and science, with all the machines, &c., connected
+with them. I would willingly conclude my observations on Paris with some
+remarks on its manners, principles, &c., and I would begin with Religion
+first if I could, but the fact is there appears to be none. If any does
+exist it must approximate to Mysticism and lie concealed in the recesses
+of the heart, for truly "the right hand knoweth not what the left hand
+doeth." But with all this non-appearance I should be cautious in passing
+too severe a censure. It must be remembered that the nation is military,
+that from the earliest years they "sing of arms," and Buonaparte carried
+this to such a degree that even children not much older than Owen[78]
+are to be seen in full Uniforms. He wished to incorporate the two terms
+of man and soldier. We laughed, you remember, at the account of the
+little King of Rome appearing in Uniform; in Paris this would not appear
+ridiculous. He had uniforms of all the favourite regiments horse and
+foot....
+
+[Illustration: PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS.
+
+_to face p. 141._]
+
+But yet there appears to be less vice than in England, I should rather
+say less organised vice; I have not heard of a single Robbery, public or
+private--I walk without fear of pickpockets; I should be inclined to say
+they seemed rather against themselves than against each other. Their
+principles may be more relaxed on some points than ours, but I doubt
+much whether a Frenchman would not be as much disgusted in England as an
+Englishman could possibly be in France; we call them a profligate race
+and condemn them in toto--something like Hudibras' John Bull--
+
+    "Compounds for sin he is inclined to
+     By damning those he has no mind to."
+
+Their public walks and Theatres are less offensive to decency than ours.
+Drunkenness is scarcely known; at first sight I should pronounce them an
+idle, indolent people; the streets are almost always full; the gardens,
+public walks, &c., swarm at all hours with saunterers. According to my
+ideas a Frenchman's life must be wretched, for he does not seem at all
+to enter into the charms of home--their houses are not calculated for
+it; they huddle together in nooks and corners, and the male part
+(judging from the multitudes I daily see) leave the women and children
+to get through the day as they can.
+
+Their coffee-houses are some of them quite extraordinary; most of them
+are ornamented with Mirrors in abundance, but some shine with more
+splendour. In the Palais Royal there is one called "Le Caf� de mille
+Colonnes," which merits some description. It consists of three or four
+rooms--the largest is almost one mass of plate-glass Mirrors, beautiful
+clocks at each end, and magnificent chandeliers; behind a raised Table
+of most superb structure, composed of slabs of marble and plate-glass,
+sat a lady dressed in the richest manner, Diamonds on head and hand,
+Lace, Muslin, &c. This is the Landlady; by her a little boy, about 4
+years old, stood in charge of a drawer from whence the small change was
+issued; this, if it happened to be copper, was delicately touched by the
+fair hand, which was immediately washed in a glass of water as if
+contaminated by the vulgar metal. She never spoke to the waiters, but
+rung a golden bell; her inkstands, flower jars--in short, every article
+on the table was of the same metal or of silver gilt. The tables for the
+company were fine marble slabs; the room was from the reflection of all
+the mirrors, as you may suppose, a perfect blaze of light, and yet
+altogether the place looked dirty, from the undress and shabby coats of
+the company. The French never dress for the evening unless going out to
+parties, and they always look dirty and unlike gentlemen; the former is
+not the case, in fact for they are constantly washing and bathing. An
+hour or two before I was in this extraordinary coffee-house I had
+traversed a spot as opposite to it as could well be--the Catacombs!--a
+range of vaults nearly half a mile long, about 80 feet under ground, in
+which are deposited all the bones from all the cemeteries in Paris. I
+suppose we were in company with some millions of skeletons, whose skulls
+are so arranged as to form regular patterns, and here and there was an
+altar made of bones fancifully piled up, on the sides an inscription in
+Latin, French, &c. Behind one wall the bodies of all who perished in the
+massacres in Paris were immured. They were brought in carts at night and
+thrown in, and there they rest, festering not in their shrouds but in
+clothes. Such a mass of corrupt flesh would soon have infested all the
+vaults, so they were bricked up.
+
+[Illustration: Catacombs Paris, July 8, 1814]
+
+I wish to recommend our hotel to any people you may hear of coming to
+Paris--H�tel des Estrangers, Rue du Hazard, kept by Mr. Meriel. Its
+situation is both quiet and convenient; it is really not five minutes'
+walk from the leading objects of Paris, and the people have been civil
+to us beyond measure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY
+
+The Ex-Imperial Guard--Anecdotes of the last days at
+Fontainebleau--Invalided Cossacks--"Trahison"--Ruin and
+desolation--Roast dog--An English soldier--A Trappist veteran--Jack
+boots--Polytechnic cadets--A Russian officer--Cossacks, Kalmucks,
+and sparrows--Prussians and British lions--Rhine Castles--Rival
+inscriptions--Diligence atmosphere--Brisemaison--Sociable English.
+
+
+On leaving Paris, Edward Stanley planned to follow the traces of the
+desperate campaign which Napoleon had fought in the early months of that
+year (1814) against the Allies, and in which he so nearly succeeded in
+saving his crown for a time.
+
+As, however, the English travellers did not intend to return again to
+Paris, they reversed Napoleon's line of march and started to
+Fontainebleau by the road along which the Emperor rode back in hot haste
+on the night of March 30th, to take up the command of the force which
+should have been defending his capital, and where the sight of Mortier's
+flying troops convinced him that all hope was at an end.
+
+When they had visited Fontainebleau, where the final abdication had
+taken place on April 11th, they turned north-east to Melun and posted on
+through towns which had been the scenes of some of the most desperate
+fighting in that wonderful campaign, when Napoleon had seemed to be
+everywhere at once, dealing blows right and left against the three
+armies which, in the beginning of January, had advanced to threaten his
+Empire--B�low in the north, Bl�cher on the east, and Schwarzenberg on
+the south.
+
+They passed through Guignes and Meaux, by which Napoleon's army had
+marched after his victory over Bl�cher at Vauchamps on February 14th, in
+the rapid movement to reinforce Marshal Victor, and to drive back
+Schwarzenberg from the Seine.
+
+Through Ch�teau Thierry, where on the 12th of February the Emperor and
+Marshal Mortier had pursued Russians and Prussians from street to street
+till they were driven over the Marne, and whence the French leader
+dashed after Bl�cher to Vauchamps.
+
+Through Soissons, which the Russians under Winzengerode had bombarded on
+March 3rd, and forced to surrender, whereby Bl�cher and B�low were
+enabled to join hands.
+
+Through Laon, where Bl�cher retreated after Craonne, and where he
+finally shattered Marmont's forces in a night attack.
+
+By Berry au Bac, where the Emperor crossed the Aisne on his way to fight
+Bl�cher at Craonne, the scene on March 7th of one of the bloodiest
+battles of the war.
+
+On to Rheims where, after Marmont's disaster at Laon, Napoleon beat the
+Russians just before he was forced to rush southwards again to contend
+with Schwarzenberg and his Austrians.
+
+Finally they reached Ch�lons, which had been Napoleon's starting-point
+for the whole campaign, and where he had arrived in the closing days of
+January after having taken his last farewell of Marie Louise and of the
+King of Rome.
+
+After Ch�lons they turned eastwards, following the line of fortresses
+for which Napoleon had staked and lost his crown, and reached the Rhine
+by Verdun, Metz, and Mayence; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle, Lille, and
+Brussels, which had by the Treaty of Paris, in May, been ceded with the
+whole of Belgium to the Netherlands.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Wife._
+
+MELUN, _July 14th_.
+
+We quitted our Hotel yesterday morning at six for Fontainebleau.
+
+There is nothing particularly interesting about the road, which is
+almost an incessant avenue. About half-way we passed a fine Ch�teau of
+Marshal Jourdan's.
+
+The forest of Fontainebleau commences about four miles from the town and
+extends some nine or ten miles in all directions. At first I was in
+hopes of being gratified with the sight of fine woods, but, with the
+exception of a few patches of good oaks, the remainder is little better
+than underwood and dwarflings.
+
+We went into the heart of the forest to see an old Hermitage now
+inhabited by a keeper and his family. They had been visited by Cossacks,
+but had received no injury whatever; on the contrary the poor woman
+related with all the eloquence of Truth and the French animation that
+from their own soldiers they had suffered all that cruelty and rapacity
+could devise--indeed, the house and gardens bore evidence to the
+facts--window shutters pierced with bullets, broken doors, furniture
+gone, and above 800 francs' worth of honey destroyed out of pure
+wantonness--in short the poor people seemed quite ruined. I received a
+similar account in the town. Fontainebleau is a dull, melancholy-looking
+place, with a very extensive ugly palace--interesting only from the late
+events. Scarcely a soul appeared about; we crossed the large court in
+which Buonaparte took his last farewell and embraced the Imperial
+Eagles, called by some loyal French "The vile Cuckoos." Our hostess was,
+I presume, a staunch imperialist, who thought she could not shew her
+zeal for the Emperor in a stronger manner than by imposing on
+Englishmen. She began by asking 16s. for a plate of 8 little wretched
+mutton chops; we resented the imposition, although the sudden appearance
+of 4 or 5 officers of the imperial guard almost rendered it doubtful
+whether we ought to act too warmly on the defensive, as they seemed to
+patronise our hostess; however, we refused to pay and retired unimposed
+upon.
+
+The imperial guard here are supposed to be particularly attached to the
+Emperor, and of course averse to Englishmen, but I was agreeably
+surprised to find three out of the four really something like gentlemen
+in their manners; we entered into conversation, which I managed as
+dexterously as I could, manoeuvering between the evil of sacrificing my
+own opinions on one side, and of giving them offence on the other; it
+was a nice point, as I perceived a word beyond the line of demarcation
+would have inflamed them in a trice. One happened to differ with another
+on a political point, which produced a loud and rapid stamping with the
+feet, accompanied by a course of pirouets on the heel with the velocity
+of a dervish, which fully proved what might be effected on their tempers
+had I been disposed to try the experiment. They called themselves the
+Ex-Imperial Guard. On retiring I shook hands with them, and with as low
+a bow as the little King of Rome, said "Messieurs les Gardes d'Honneur,
+Je vous salue." ...
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+_Monday, July 19th._
+
+...The history of Buonaparte immediately preceding, and subsequent to
+the surrender of Paris, was never actually known--I will give it you.
+
+The capitulation took place on the 30th (March). In the evening of that
+day he arrived at Fontainebleau without his army. Rumours of fighting
+near Paris had reached him. He almost immediately set off with Berthier
+in his carriage for Paris, and actually arrived at Villejuif, only 6
+miles from the capital; when he heard the result he turned about and
+appeared again at Fontainebleau at 9 the next morning. When he alighted,
+the person who handed him out, a sort of head-porter of the Palace, who
+was our guide, told me he looked "triste, bien triste"; he spoke to
+nobody, went upstairs as fast as he could, and then called for his plans
+and maps; his occupation during the whole time he staid consisted in
+writing and looking over papers, but to what this writing and these
+papers related the world may feel but will never know; his spirits were
+by no means broken down; in a day or two he was pretty much as usual,
+and it is said he signed the Abdication without the least apparent
+emotion. We heard he was mad, but I can assure you from undoubted
+authority that he was perfectly well in mind and body the whole time,
+and, notwithstanding his excessive fatigues, as corpulent as ever;
+indeed, said our guide, "War seems to agree with him better than with
+any man I ever knew." Buonaparte laid out immense sums in furnishing and
+beautifying the Palais here. I got into his library, the snuggest room
+you ever saw, immediately below a little study in which he always sat
+and settled his affairs; his arm-chair was a very comfortable, honest,
+plain arm-chair, but I looked in vain for all the gashes and notches
+which it was said he was wont to inflict upon it. I could not perceive
+a scratch, he was too busily employed in that said chair in forming
+plans for cutting up Europe; within three yards of his table was a
+little door, or rather trap door, by which you descended down the oddest
+spiral staircase you ever beheld into the Library, which was low and
+small; the books were few of them new, almost all standard works upon
+history--at least I am sure 4 out of 5 were historical--all of his own
+selection, and each stamped, as in fact was everything else from high to
+low, far and wide, with his N., or his Bees or his Eagle--all of which
+Louis XVIII is as busily employed in effacing, which alone will give him
+ample employment: but to return to the books. Amongst the rest I
+found--Shakespeare ... and a whole range of Ecclesiastical History,
+which, if ever read, might account in some degree for his shutting up
+the Pope as the existing representative of the animals who have
+occasioned half the feuds and divisions therein recorded. There was a
+Chapel, which he regularly attended on Sundays and Saints' days. His
+State bed was a sort of State business, very uncomfortable, consisting
+of 5 or 6 mattresses under a royal canopy with 2 Satin Pillows at each
+end.
+
+During his residence he never stirred beyond the gates, though I could
+not discover that he was at all under restraint, or in any way looked
+upon as a prisoner; we were told in England (what are we not told
+there?) that he feared the people, who would have torn him in pieces;
+this is an idle story. I rather suspect the people liked him too well,
+besides which his Guards were there, and by them he is idolised. He
+generally took exercise in a long and beautiful Gallery, called the
+Gallery of Francis I., on both sides of which were busts of his great
+Generals on panels ornamented with the N., and some name above alluding
+to a victory; thus above one N. was _Nazareth_, which puzzled me at
+first, but I afterwards heard he had cut up some Turks there; besides
+the Gallery, he walked every day up and down a Terrace; he dined every
+day in a miserable (I speak comparatively) little passage room without
+any shew of state; he was affable to his attendants and is liked by
+them. His abdication room is not one of the state apartments--it is a
+shabby ante-room; I could almost fancy that in performing this
+humiliating deed he had retired as far as possible from the Halls and
+Saloons which were decorated by his hand, and had witnessed his Imperial
+magnificence. Most of the Marshals were in the room, and it would have
+been a tour indeed to have glided through the hearts of each when such
+an extraordinary performance was transacting. It was in the great Court
+before the Palace that he took his leave, not above 1,500 troops were
+present. At such a moment to have heard such a speech, delivered with
+the dignity and stage effect Buonaparte well knew how to give, must have
+produced a strong effect--how great (how sad I had almost said) the
+contrast!
+
+The stones were overgrown with grass; nobody appeared, no voice was
+heard except the clacking of half a dozen old women who were weeding on
+their knees, and all the windows were closed. The dreary, deserted
+present compared with the magnificent past excited nearly the same
+feelings as if I had been looking on Tadmor in the wilderness. After
+passing the Imperial prison we were ushered into the apartments of the
+Imperial prisoners, the poor Pope and his 16 Cardinals. I had quite
+forgotten the place of their confinement, and was a little surprised
+when the man said, "Here, Sir, dwelt for 19 months the holy Conclave of
+St. Peter." He must have led a miserable life, for though he was allowed
+two carriages, with 6 and 8 horses to each, he neither stirred out
+himself nor allowed any of the Cardinals to so do, saying he did not
+think it right for prisoners. Buonaparte saw him in January, I think the
+man said, for the last time. So much for Fontainebleau. Few have
+followed their master to Elba. Roustan the Mameluke and Constant his
+Valet were certainly very ungrateful; one of them--I forget which--to
+whom Buonaparte had given 25,000 fr. (about �1,200) the day before he
+left Fontainebleau, applied to the Duc de Berri for admission into his
+service; in reply the Duc told him his gratitude ought to have carried
+him to Elba, but though it had not, if he (the Duke) ever heard that
+Buonaparte wished to have him there, he would bind him hand and foot and
+send him immediately. None of the Royal allies have been to
+Fontainebleau at the time or since, except the King of Prussia, who
+came incog. a few days ago. This the guide said he had heard since; he
+had, indeed, seen three persons walking about, but he had not shewn them
+the Palace nor spoken to them. That it was the King of Prussia was
+confirmed by a curious little memorandum I found wafered over a high
+glass on the top of the room in which we dined, and which caught my eye
+immediately; I shewed it to the people of the house, who said they had
+not observed it before, but remembered three gentlemen dining there on
+that day. "Sa Majest� le Roi de Prusse accompagn� du Prince Guillaume
+son fils a din� en cette appartement avec son premier Chambellan Mr.
+Baron D'Ambolle, le 8 Juillet, 1814." ... This is the way the King of
+Prussia always went about in Paris, nobody knew him or saw him....
+
+From Fontainebleau we went to Melun and kept proceeding through Guignes
+to Meaux. At Guignes we began to hear of the effects of war: 15,000
+Russians had been bivouacked above the town for a week. Buonaparte
+advanced with his troops, on which they retired, but troops do not walk
+up and down the earth like lambs, but rather like roaring lions, seeking
+whom they may devour; however, here let us insert once for all the
+account I have invariably received from sufferers throughout the whole
+Theatre of war--that the conduct of the Russians and French was widely
+different; the former generally behaving as well as could possibly be
+expected, and pillaging only from necessity; the latter seem to have
+made havoc and devastation their delight. They might perhaps act on
+principle, conceiving that it was better for the treasure and good
+things of the land to fall into their hands than the enemy's.
+
+At a little shabby inn at Guignes where we breakfasted Buonaparte had
+slept. The people described him dressed "comme un perruquier" in a grey
+great-coat; he clattered into the house, bustled about, went to his room
+early, and appeared again at 9 the next morning, but "J'en reponds bien"
+that he was not sleeping all that time. If from Guignes we traversed a
+country where we heard of war, at Meaux we began to see the
+effects--before a picturesque gateway we descended to cross the bridge
+over a stone arch which had been blown up. Shot-holes marked the wall,
+and within the houses were well bespattered with musket balls. It was
+the first visible field of battle we had crossed, and to heighten the
+interest, while we were looking about and asking particulars of the
+people, up came bands of Russian troops of all descriptions, Cossacks
+included, 1,500 having just entered the town invalided from Paris on
+their return home. To be sure, a more filthy set I never beheld. The
+country is pretty well stocked with Cossack horses; they were purchased
+at a very cheap rate--from 25 shillings to 50 a piece. We have had
+several of them in our carriage, and find them far more active and rapid
+than the French, though smaller and more miserable in appearance. My
+conversation with the Russians (for I made it a point to speak to
+everybody) was rather laconic, and generally ran thus, "Vous Russe, moi
+Inglis"--the answer, "You Inglis, moi Russe, we brothers"--and then I
+generally got a tap on the shoulder and a broad grin of approbation
+which terminated the conference.
+
+You know the chief event which occurred at Meaux was the explosion of
+the powder magazines by the French on their retreat, for which they were
+most severely, and, I think, unjustly, censured in our
+despatches--indeed, after seeing and hearing with my own eyes and ears,
+I feel less than ever inclined to put implicit faith in these public
+documents. The Magazine was in a large house where wines had been stored
+in the cellar--about half a mile to the west of the town upon a hill.
+About 3 o'clock in the morning the explosion took place with an
+"_�branlement_" which shook the town to its very foundation. In an
+instant every pane of glass was shattered to atoms, but the cathedral
+windows, which were composed of small squares in lead, escaped tolerably
+well, only here and there some patches being forced out. The tiles also
+partook of the general crash. Many, of course, were broken by the shower
+of shot, stones, &c., which fell, but the actual concussion destroyed
+the greater part. Numbers of houses were remaining in their dilapidated
+state, and presented a curious scene. We went to see the spot where the
+house stood, for the house itself, like the temple of Loretto,
+disappeared altogether. Some others near it were on their last
+legs--top, beams, doors, all blown away. Even the trees in a garden were
+in part thrown down, and the larger ones much excoriated. Only one
+person was killed on the spot, supposed to have been a marauder who was
+pillaging near the place. Another person about half a mile off, driving
+away his furniture to a place of safety, was wounded, and died soon
+afterwards.
+
+From Meaux, I may say almost all the way to Ch�lons, a distance of above
+150 miles, the country bore lamentable marks of the scourge with which
+it has been afflicted. I will allow you--I would allow myself perhaps,
+when I look back to the circumstances connected with the war--to wish
+that all the country, Paris included, had been sacked and pillaged as a
+just punishment, or rather as the sole mode of convincing these
+infatuated people that they are the conquered and not the Conqueror of
+the Allies. Wherever I go, whatever field of battle I see--be it Craon,
+Laon, Soissons, or elsewhere--victory is never accorded to the Russians.
+"Oh non, les Russes �taient toujours vaincus." One fellow who had been
+one of Buonaparte's guides at Craon had the impudence to assure me that
+the moment he appeared the Allies ran away. "Aye, but," said I, "how
+came the French to retreat and leave them alone?" "Oh, because just then
+the _trahison_ which had been all arranged 19 months before began to
+appear."
+
+Again, at Laon I was assured that the French drove all before them, and
+gained the heights. "Then," said I, "why did not they stay there?" "Oh,
+then reappeared '_la petite trahison_,'" and so they go on, and well do
+they deserve, and heartily do I wish, to have their pride and impudence
+lowered. But when I see what war is, when I see the devastation this
+comet bears in its sweeping tail, its dreadful impartiality involving
+alike the innocent and the guilty, I should be very sorry if it depended
+on me to pronounce sentence, or cry "havoc and let loose." ...
+
+On the 14th we slept at Ch�teau Thierry--such an Inn, and such insolent
+pigs of people! Spain was scarcely worse ... added to the filthiness of
+the place, a diligence happened at the same time to pour forth its
+contents in the shape of a crew of the most vulgar, dirty French
+officers I ever saw. It was well we had no communication with them, for
+by the conversation I overheard in the next room there would have been
+little mutual satisfaction: "Oh! voici un regiment (alluding to us 5) de
+ces Anglois dans la maison! o� vont-ils les Coquins?" "Moi je ne sais
+pas, les vilains!" Luckily they all tumbled upstairs to bed very soon,
+each with a cigar smoking and puffing from beneath the penthouse of
+their huge moustachios, during their ascent, by the by, keeping the
+Landlady in hot water lest they should break into her best bedroom, of
+which she carefully kept the key, telling me at the same time she was
+afraid of their insisting upon having clean sheets. By their appearance,
+however, I did not conceive her to be in much danger of so unfair a
+demand. We had the clean sheets, damp enough, but no matter--she
+remembered them in the Bill most handsomely, and when I remonstrated
+against some of her charges, for I must observe that we dined in a
+wretched hole with our postillions, she checked me by saying, "Comment,
+Monsieur, c'est trop! Cela ne se peut pas; comme tout ici est si
+charmant." ... There was no reply to be made to such an appeal, so I
+bowed, paid, and retired. Then the bridge was blown up, the streets
+speckled with bullets. Near the bridge, which had been smartly
+contested, the houses were actually riddled, yet here the Emperor stood
+exposed as quiet and unconcerned amidst the balls as if (to use their
+own expression) he had been "chez lui."
+
+As we advanced the marks of war became stronger and stronger, every
+village wore a rueful aspect, and every individual told a tale more and
+more harrowing to the feelings. The Postmasters seem to have been the
+greatest sufferers, as their situation demanded a large supply of corn,
+horses and forage, all of which, even to the chickens, were carried off.
+One poor woman, wife of a postmaster, a very well-behaved,
+gentlewoman-like sort of person, told me that when 80,000 Russians came
+to their town she escaped into the woods (you will remember the snow was
+then deep on the ground and the cold excessive) where for two days she
+and her family had nothing to eat. The Cossacks then found her, but did
+no harm, only asking for food. I mention her case not as singular, for
+it was the lot of thousands, but merely to shew what people must expect
+when Enemies approach.
+
+Soissons was the next place, and compared with the scene of desolation
+there presented all that we had hitherto seen was trifling.
+
+I little thought last February that in July I should witness such
+superlatively interesting scenes. With the exception of Elba alone, ours
+has been the very best tour that could have been taken, and exactly at
+the right time, for I apprehend that a month ago we could not have
+passed the country....
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+MAYENCE, _July 22nd_.
+
+Our speed outstrips my pen. I am to retrace our steps to Soissons,
+whereas here we are upon the banks of the Rhine, which is hurrying
+majestically by to terminate its course amongst the dykes of Holland.
+
+The nearer we came to Soissons[79] the nearer we perceived we were to
+the field of some terrible contest, and the suburbs, where the thickest
+of the fight took place, presented a frightful picture of war, not a
+house entire. It seems they were unroofed for the convenience of the
+attacking party, or set on fire, an operation which took up a very short
+space of time, thanks to the energetic labours of about 50 or 60,000
+men. Indeed, fire and sword had done their utmost--burnt beams,
+battered doors, not a vestige of furniture or window frames. I cannot
+give you a better idea of the quantity of shot, and consequent number of
+beings who must have perished, than by assuring you that on one front of
+a house about the extent of our home, and which was not more favoured
+than its neighbours, I counted between 2 and 300 bullet marks. I was
+leaning against a bit of broken wall in a garden, which appeared to be
+the doorway to a sort of cellar, taking a sketch, when the gardener came
+up and gave me some particulars of the fight. He pointed to this cave or
+cellar as the place of shelter in which he and 44 others had been
+concealed, every moment dreading a discovery which, whether by friend or
+foe, they looked upon as equally fatal. Fortunately the foe were the
+discoverers. Upon the termination of the battle, which had been
+favourable to the Allies, in came a parcel of Russians upon the
+trembling peasants. Conceiving it to be a hiding-place for French
+soldiers, they rushed upon them, but finding none, satisfied themselves
+with asking what business they had there, and turning them out to find
+their way through blood and slaughter to some more secure place of
+shelter. A small mill pool had been so completely choked with dead that
+they were obliged to let off the water and clean it out. With Sir
+Charles Stuart's dispatches cut out of the Macclesfield Paper we
+ascended the Cathedral, and from thence, as upon a map, traced out the
+operations of both armies. Soissons is half surrounded by the Aisne,
+and stands on a fine plain, upon which the Russians displayed.
+Buonaparte, in one of his Bulletins, abuses a governor who allowed the
+Allies to take possession of the town when he was in pursuit, thus
+giving them a passage over the river, adding that had that governor done
+his duty the Russians might have been cut off. In England this was all
+voted "leather and prunello" and a mere vapouring opinion of the
+Emperor's, but as far as I could observe he was perfectly right, and had
+the governor been acting under my orders I question much whether I
+should not have hanged him. In looking about we were shewn a sort of
+town hall, with windows ornamented with the most beautiful painted glass
+you ever saw--nice little figures, trophies, landscapes, &c.--but a
+party of Russians had unfortunately been lodged there, and the glass was
+almost all smashed. I procured a specimen, but alas! portmanteaus are
+not the best packing-cases for glass, and in my possession it fared
+little better than with the Cossacks. However, if it is pulverised, I
+will bring it home as a Souvenir....
+
+[Illustration: HOUSES AND TOWER, LAON, 1814.]
+
+_To face p. 161._
+
+From Soissons to Laon the country is uninteresting except from the late
+events. With the exception of the first view of the plain and town of
+Laon, we passed village after village in the same state of ruin and
+dilapidation. Chavignon, about 4 miles from Laon, seemed, however, to
+have been more particularly the object of vengeance; it was throughout
+nearly a repetition of the suburbs of Soissons. Laon rises like a sort
+of Gibraltar from a rich and beautiful plain covered with little woods,
+vineyards, villages, and cornfields; the summit is crowned with an old
+castle, the town with its Cathedral towers and a parcel of windmills.
+Buonaparte had been extremely anxious to dislodge the allies; for two
+days made a furious and almost incessant attack, which was fortunately
+unsuccessful owing, to speak in French terms, to _la petite trahison_,
+in plain English, the bravery of the Russians, who not only withstood
+the repeated shocks, but pursued the enemy all the way to Soissons,
+every little copse and wood becoming a scene of contest, and the whole
+plain was strewed with dead. Since quitting Rouen I do not recollect any
+town at all to be compared with Laon either in point of scenery without
+or picturesque beauty within; it is one of the most curious old places I
+ever saw--Round Towers, Gateways, &c. We took up our quarters at an
+odd-looking Inn, with the nicest people we had met with for some time.
+They spoke with horror of the miseries they had undergone in this Inn,
+not much larger than Cutts' at Wilmslow; they had daily to feed and
+accommodate for upwards of two months 150 Russians of all descriptions,
+and this at a moment when provisions were, of course, extremely dear.
+The landlord's daughter with two friends were imprisoned, actually
+afraid of putting their noses beyond the keyhole; luckily they could
+make artificial flowers, and two of them drew remarkably well; a
+favourite dog of the landlord's was their companion. A Cossack had one
+day taken him by the tail with the firm intent to put him on the kitchen
+fire, the bare recollection of which kindled all our host's anger, and
+he declared that had his poor dog been roasted, though he well knew the
+consequence, he should have shot the Cossack; fortunately the dog
+escaped, but as his Master assured me, never smelt or heard a Cossack's
+name mentioned afterwards without popping his tail between his legs and
+making off with the utmost speed. Both at this place and at Soissons we
+met with people with whom Davenport[80] had lodged, and in both places
+he has established a character which reflects the highest credit on his
+activity, humanity, and generosity. He was no idle spectator; he went
+about endeavouring by every means in his power to alleviate the miseries
+of war by protecting persons and property, and by administering to the
+wants of the sick and wounded of every description....
+
+On the 16th we quitted Laon for Berry au Bac, passing through Corbeny
+and close to the heights of Craon, upon which a battle was fought which
+might be considered as the coup de gr�ce to the French. The Emperor
+commanded in person; he talked nearly half an hour with the Postmaster,
+whom he summoned before him; if the man spoke truth, his conversation
+appears to have been rather childish. After asking many questions about
+the roads and country, he vented a torrent of abuse against the
+Russians, upon whom he assured the Postmaster it was his intention to
+inflict summary punishment, and, indeed, according to the French
+translation of the business, he actually did so, tho' I never could find
+out that any other of the Imperial troops remained to enjoy the victory
+on these said heights, saving and except the wounded and killed; one
+spot was pointed out where in one grave were deposited the remains of
+3,000....
+
+In this village of Corbeny there had been sad devastation; but it was at
+Berry au Bac that we were to see the superlative degree of misery. This
+unfortunate little town had been captured 7 times--4 times by the
+Russians, 3 times by the French; their bridge, a beautiful work of 3
+arches, only completed in December, was blown up March 19. The houses
+fared no better; whole streets were annihilated--chiefly for the sake of
+burning the beams for fire-wood by the Russians--but the walls were in
+great measure knocked over by the French, for what other purpose than
+wanton cruelty I could not learn. Pillage and violence of every
+description had been excessive. Some of the inhabitants died of pure
+fright; a gentleman-like-looking man assured me his own father was of
+the number. Even here the Cossacks were complimented for their
+comparative good behaviour, while the French and the Emperor were justly
+execrated--"Plait � Dieu" said a poor man who stood moaning over the
+ruins of his cottage, "Plait � Dieu, qu'il soit mort, et qu'on
+n'entend�t plus de Napol�on";--the old woman, his wife, told me they
+only feared the Cossacks when they were drunk. An old Cossack had taken
+up his quarters with them--"Ah c'�tait un bon Viellard; un bon Papa."
+
+[Illustration: BERRY AU BAC.
+
+_To face p. 164._]
+
+One day a party of 20 or 30 drunken Cossacks broke into their yard, and
+insisted on entering the house; the old woman said she had nothing to
+fear and would have opened the door, but the Cossack seized her, saying,
+"There is but one way to save you," and taking her by the arm, shewed
+her to his companions as his prize and threatened the man who should
+touch his property with instant death. They did not dispute the matter
+with him and retired quietly. When they were out of sight he told her to
+follow him, and led her 3 or 4 miles up the country amongst the woods
+and left her in a place of safety, taking a kind leave of her and
+saying, "I have done all I could for you, now farewell"--and she saw no
+more of him....
+
+We arrived at Rheims on the evening of the 16th, a large, fine, regular,
+dull-looking city in a dull-looking plain. The Cathedral is grand
+enough, but I felt no wish to remain till the Coronation. Hitherto we
+had seen inanimate vestiges of war, at Rheims we were to see the living
+effects. By accident we passed the door of a large Church or Hall which
+had been converted into an Hospital for 400 Russian prisoners, and on
+benches near the porch were seated some convalescent patients without
+arms or legs. We stopped to speak to them as well as we could, and upon
+saying we were Englanders, one of the Russians with evident rapture and
+unfeigned delight made signs that there was a British soldier amongst
+their number, and immediately 4 or 5 of them ran to bring him out; and
+such a poor object did appear dragged along, his legs withered away and
+emaciated to the last degree. He had been wounded at St. Jean de Luz in
+the thigh, and subsequently afflicted with a fever which had thus
+deprived him of the use of his limbs. We gave something to those who
+were nearest, and on my asking if any Prussian was there to whom I could
+speak in French, as I wished to express our desire but inability to
+relieve all, I was conducted through the wards to a miserable being who
+was seated with his head suspended in a sling from the top of the bed,
+both legs dreadfully shattered, and unable to support himself upright
+through extreme weakness.
+
+During the whole of supper-time the Hospital and this Englishman hung
+heavy on my mind; I felt as if I had not done enough, and that I might
+be of use in writing to his friends. Accordingly about 10 o'clock I went
+again to the Gate and begged admittance. On mentioning my wish to see
+the Englishman, I was immediately allowed to enter, and conducted up the
+wards. On each side were small beds, clean, and in admirable order;
+there was nothing to interrupt the silence but our own echoing footsteps
+and the groans of the poor patients all round. The Nurses were in the
+costume of Nuns, and from religious principles undertake the care of
+the sick--there was something very awful in marching up the aisles with
+these conductors at this time. My poor countryman was asleep when I came
+to his bedside. I took down memorandums of his case, and promised to
+write to his friends, and left him money to assist him on his road home,
+should he (of which I much doubt) ever recover.
+
+I staid with him some time; in the course of the conversation some
+wounded Prussians came up on their crutches, and it was quite gratifying
+to see their kindness and goodwill to this poor fellow who, sole of his
+nation and kindred, was wasting away amongst strangers. They patted him
+on his head, called him their _cher_ and _bon gar�on_, lifted him up
+that he might see and hear better, and he assured me that by them and by
+all the attendants he was treated with the utmost kindness and
+attention. Amongst 400 wounded soldiers whose deep groans and ghastly
+countenances announced that many were almost passing the barrier which
+separates the mortal from the immortal, with their nurses by my side
+holding their glimmering tapers, each arrayed in the order of their
+religion and wearing the Cross as the badge of their profession, was a
+situation in which I had never before been placed. In offering
+ministerial advice, and, I trust, affording religious consolation under
+circumstances so solemn and peculiar, you may conceive that I did speak
+with all the earnestness and fervour in my power. I told the nurses who
+and what I was, and so far from entertaining any illiberal ideas as to
+the propriety of my interfering in what might be called their clerical
+department, they expressed the greatest pleasure and seemed to rejoice
+that their patient was visited by one of his own ministers.... Thus
+ended my visit to the Hospital at Rheims, which I never can forget.
+
+We travelled the next day to Verdun, bidding adieu to the Hibberts at
+Ch�lons.
+
+You will ask if we have seen any vestiges of war on the soil such as
+bodies. We have met with a tolerable quantity of dead horses by the
+road-side and in ditches, but only one human being, half scratched up by
+a dog, has appeared; a few rags of uniform dangling upon the skeleton
+bones called our attention to it.
+
+Verdun is a very comfortable town of considerable extent decently
+fortified; the number of English there was from 1,000 to 1,100; they
+were all sent off in a hurry. At 5 in the evening they received the
+order, at 7 the next morning the greater part were off, and 24 hours
+afterward the Allies hovered round the town. The French boast, and
+nobody can contradict the assertion, that the Allies were never able to
+take their fortresses; certainly not; for they never attempted. Instead
+of losing their time in besieging, they left a few to mark the place and
+went on.... The English prisoners seem to have enjoyed every comfort
+they could expect--in fact, their imprisonment was in great measure
+nominal; with little difficulty they were allowed to go as far as they
+wished; they were noticed by the inhabitants, and many have married and
+settled in France. I think the prisoners in England have not been so
+well off, and complain with reason.
+
+[Illustration: VERDUN BRIDGE.
+
+_To face p. 168._]
+
+We went to the English church and Theatre, and saw as much as we could
+for half a day. For the honor of my country I lament to say that many
+here contracted heavy debts which are not likely to be paid. Some
+instances were mentioned, the truth of which were proved by letters I
+read from the parties themselves, little creditable to our national
+character, and by persons, too, who ought to have known better. On the
+18th we left Verdun for Metz. I had always winked at and generally
+encouraged the addition of another passenger behind our Cabriolet. The
+road was quite crowded with straggling soldiers going or returning to
+their several homes or regiments. We rarely passed in a day less than 2
+or 300, and really sometimes in situations so very favorable to robbing
+that I am surprised we were never attacked, their appearance being
+generally stamped with a character perfectly congenial to the Banditti
+Trade--dark, whiskered, sunburnt visages, with ragged uniform and naked
+feet. Sometimes we were more fortunate than at others; for instance,
+stragglers from the Hamburg garrison, whose wan faces bore testimony to
+the fact they related of having lived for the last 4 or 5 months on
+horseflesh; but our charitable assistance was to be this day most
+abundantly rewarded. We overtook a poor fellow, more wretched than most
+we had seen, toiling away with his bivouacking cloak tied round him. He,
+too, solicited, and misunderstanding my answer, said in the most
+pitiable but submissive tone, "Alors, Monsieur ne permettra pas que je
+monte?" "Tout au contraire," said I, "Montez tout de suite." After
+proceeding a little way I thought I might as well see who we had got
+behind us, and guess my astonishment when I received the answer. Who do
+you imagine, of all the people in the world, Buonaparte had raked forth
+to secure the Imperial Diadem upon his brow, to fight his battles, and
+deal in blood, but--A monk of La Trappe. For three years had he resided
+in Silence and solitude in this most severe society when Buonaparte
+suppressed it, and insisted that all the Noviciate Monks in No. 36
+should sally forth and henceforth wield both their swords and their
+tongues; with lingering steps and slow our poor companion went. In the
+battle of Lutzen[81] he fought and conquered. In Leipsic[82] he fought
+and fell--the _wind_ of a shot tore his eye out and struck him down, and
+the shot killed his next neighbour upon the spot; he was taken prisoner
+by the Swedes, and was now returning from Stockholm to his brethren near
+Fribourg. The simplicity with which he told his tale bore ample
+testimony to the Truth, but in addition he shewed me his Rosary and
+credentials. After having talked over the battle I changed the subject,
+and determined to see if he could wield the sword of controversy as
+well as of war; and accordingly telling him who I was, asked his opinion
+of the Protestant Faith and the chief points of difference between us.
+He hesitated a little at first: "Attendez, Monsieur, il faut que je
+pense un peu." In about a minute he tapped at the carriage. "Eh bien,
+Monsieur, j'ai pens�," and then entered upon the subject, which he
+discussed with much good sense and ability, sometimes in Latin,
+sometimes in French; and though he supported his argument well and
+manfully, he displayed a liberality of sentiment and a spirit of true
+Christianity which quite attached me to him. I asked him his opinion of
+the _salvability_ of protestants and infallibility of Catholics.
+"Ecoutez moi," was his reply. "Je pense que ceux qui savent que la
+Religion Catholique est la vraie Religion et ne la pratiquent pas,
+seront damn�s, mais pour ceux qui ne pensent pas comme nous. Oh non,
+Se�or, ne le croyez pas. Oh mon Dieu! non, non! jamais, jamais!" "Are
+you _quite sure_ a minister ought not to marry? You will recollect St.
+Peter was a married man." "Oh que, oui, c'est vrai, mais le moment qu'il
+suivit notre Seigneur on n'entend plus de sa femme." From this we
+proceeded to various other topics, amongst others to the propriety of
+renouncing a religion in which we conceived there were erroneous
+opinions. "Se�or, �coutez," said he, "can that religion be good which
+springs from a bad principle? Les Anglois �taient une fois des bons
+Catholiques; le Divorce d'un Roi capricieux fut la cause de leur
+changement. Ah, cela n'�tait pas bon." ...
+
+When we were on the point of parting he turned to me: "Se�or, j'esp�re
+que je ne vous ai pas fach�, si je me suis exprim� trop fortement devant
+vous qui m'avez tant rendu service, il faut me pardonner, je suis pauvre
+et malheureux, mais je pensois que c'�tait mon devoir."
+
+It was as lucky a meeting for him as for me. I assisted him with money
+to expedite him homewards, and he entertained and interested me all the
+way to Metz, when, much against my will, we parted, for had he been
+going to Pekin I should have accommodated him with a seat....
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+COLOGNE, _July 25th_.
+
+If you could see what I now see, or form any ideas adequate to the
+scenery around me, you would indeed prize a letter which, though
+commenced at 4 in the morning, cannot be valued at a less price than 2
+or 3 old Castles; but it is not yet the moment to sing the praises of
+the Rhine. I shall only say that we slept at Bacharach, and that I am
+now looking at 4 old Castles whenever I raise my eyes from the paper,
+and that a fine old Abbey is only eclipsed by the gable end of a Church,
+equally curious, which is almost thrusting itself into the window as if
+to look at the strangers.
+
+Little enlivened our day after parting with our Monk, unless I should
+except a good scene from a picture which happened at one of the Post
+houses. No Postillions were at home, so the Landlord himself was to
+drive--an enormous man, rather infirm, with a night-cap on his head,
+from whence emerged a long pigtail. It was necessary he should be put
+into his Jack boots. By Jack boots you are to understand two large
+things as big as portmanteaus, always reminding me of boots fit for the
+leg which appears in the Castle of Otranto. Accordingly no less than 4
+or 5 persons actually lifted the Landlord into his boots, an operation
+which, from the weight and infirmities of the one and the extreme
+clumsiness of the others, took up nearly a quarter of an hour; and, of
+course, when fairly deposited in them he was unable to move, and further
+help was necessary to place him on the saddle.... The first view of
+Metz, after traversing an uninteresting country, is remarkably fine. It
+stands in a fine rich plain, near though beyond the reach of an
+eminence--for it does not deserve the name of a mountain--the sides of
+which are covered with woods, villages, and vineyards. There is
+something very grand in entering a fortified Town--the clattering of
+drawbridges, appearance of moats, guns, sentinels, and all the other
+etceteras of war. Our passports were demanded for the first time. At
+length we were allowed to pass, and found ourselves in a large, clean
+town, chiefly remarkable for its Cathedral, the painted window of which
+was equal to any I ever saw. The first thing we invariably do in these
+towns is to ascend the highest spire, from whence the general plan and
+position are at once explained. You need not be alarmed. There is no
+fever at present at Metz, or on the Rhine; but there has been. From the
+close of 1813 and until the last two months not less than 69,000 sick or
+wounded have been in the hospitals of Metz--a large Church contained
+about 3,000 at a time, the remainder were scattered about wherever they
+could find room, and many breathed their last in the streets. Of course,
+such a concourse of dead and dying infested the air to a certain degree,
+and a fever was the result. However, not above 2 or 300 inhabitants
+suffered. Of the sick troops from 12 to 1,500 per day were buried
+without the town, and quicklime thrown in. We supped with three or four
+Frenchmen and a Genoese officer, one of Buonaparte's Imperial _Elites_
+of the Guard. His form and countenance were quite Vandyck--I never
+looked upon a face so well calculated for a picture; his dark whiskers
+and black curling hair composed an admirable frame for a couple of the
+most expressive eyes; his manners were extremely gentleman-like, and you
+may conceive I did not talk and look at him with any diminution of
+interest when I found he was on his way home from Moscow. He had gone
+through the whole of the retreat, had almost reached the boundaries of
+Poland, when at Calick he was wounded, taken prisoner, and marched back
+to Moscow. His description of the miseries of that horrible retreat was
+petrifying--when a horse fell it was instantly surrounded by famished
+Frenchmen, who devoured the carcase; not merely those who slept were
+frozen, but even sentries upon their posts. Yet with all this he imputed
+no blame to Buonaparte. The Russians, he said, had reason to thank the
+severity of their climate, without which they must have been completely
+conquered. I will say this, indeed, that the Russians themselves seem to
+consider their own efforts as rather secondary to the weather. Besides
+this officer we had a Citizen of Metz, a young officer of the
+Polytechnique School who had fought at Montmartre, and a youth who was
+silent; the other 3, however, made ample amends, talking incessantly,
+and all equally vehement in praise of Buonaparte. The officer blessed
+his stars that he had enough to live upon, and that he was now quitting
+a service which, having lost its brightest ornament, was no longer
+interesting or supportable. The young Polytechnique was equally violent,
+with less of the gentleman to soften it down. He, too, was disgusted,
+and had retired for the same reason (these Frenchmen are sad liars after
+all). Of course, as he had been engaged with his school companions I
+thought I could not have a better opportunity of ascertaining the number
+killed at Montmartre, as it was invariably circulated and believed at
+Paris that this defence was noble to a degree and that the greater part
+perished by their guns. You will recollect that the Polytechnique cadets
+I met on the heights of Montmartre said the same, and yet the youth
+asserted that they had not lost a single individual, that only 30 were
+wounded, whereas they knocked over the Russians in countless
+multitudes.[83] The Citizen took the best ground for his Panegyric. He
+referred us to the roads, the public buildings, the national
+improvements which France had gained under the dynasty of Napoleon; and
+when I hinted the intolerable weight of the taxes (being 1/5 on all
+rents and property) he made light of them, assuring me that Frenchmen
+had quite enough left for the comforts of life. When they all filled
+their glasses to drink to the health of their hero I turned to the
+Genoese officer and begged first to drink to the restoration of Genoa to
+that independence of which Napoleon had in great measure deprived her,
+adding that her present degradation was a cruel contrast to the
+dignified station she once held in Europe. His national superseded his
+Imperial feelings, and he drank my toast with great good humour and
+satisfaction; nor did he think it necessary in return to press me to
+drink success to the Emperor, though the Citizen on my refusal, half in
+joke, half in earnest, said he wished I might be ill off for the rest of
+my journey.
+
+My good fortune has not quitted me, however. The next morning on getting
+into the Diligence we found only one passenger--Major Kleist, nephew to
+the celebrated Prussian General and to General Tousein--a Russian
+equally famous here though not so well known in England. His appearance
+was much in his favor; he talked a great deal; had commanded a regiment
+of the Russian Imperial Elites of the Guard (in which he still was) at
+the battle of Leipsic and throughout the campaign; been engaged in every
+action from the Borodino to the capture of Paris; wounded two or three
+times; fought a French Officer in the Bois de Boulogne, and got his
+finger cut abominably; visited London and Portsmouth with his Emperor,
+dined with the Regent, &c. He told me many interesting anecdotes and
+particulars, although, from a certain random way of speaking and the
+loose, unconnected manner in which his words dropped from him, I could
+not place implicit confidence in what he said, nor vouch for the
+accuracy of his accounts. He said decidedly that Alexander had visited
+the Princess of Wales in London incog.; he mentioned an anecdote which I
+cannot quite believe, because had it occurred in Paris we must have
+heard of it. One day when Eug�ne Beauharnais was with Louis XVIII.
+Marmont came in. Eug�ne, on seeing him, turned to the King, said, "Sire,
+here is a Traitor; do not trust in him; he has betrayed one master, he
+may betray you."
+
+Marmont, of course, challenged him; they fought the next day and Marmont
+was wounded in the arm. He spoke highly of the King of Prussia as a
+military, unassuming, amiable, sensible man, and that he _does_ visit
+the tomb of his wife.[84] Alexander, he said, was fond of diplomacy, an
+amiable man, very brave, but not much of a general. I asked him what he
+thought of the Duchess of Oldenburg. When I said she had excellent sense
+and great information, he simply replied, "Oui, et peut-�tre un pen
+trop." Of Constantine[85] he spoke with indignation, and his whiskers
+vibrated as he described his detestable character--debauched, depraved,
+cruel, dishonest, and a coward. Constantine was abusing a Colonel in
+very gross tones, a short time ago, for misconduct and incompetency in
+battle. "Indeed!" said the officer; "you must have been misinformed;
+this cannot arise from your own observation, as I do not recollect
+having ever seen you near me upon these occasions."
+
+No wonder the Russians were moderate towards the inhabitants during the
+campaign--their discipline was severe enough. Our friend the Major
+caught 7 Cossacks plundering a cottage; he had them all tied up and
+knouted them to death by the moderate infliction of 1,000 blows each. In
+truth he seemed to hold the lives of these gentlemen, including the
+Calmucs, rather cheap. "Pour moi," said he, "Je considere un Cossac, un
+Calmuc et un Moineau � peu pr�s comme la m�me chose."
+
+At St. Avold we again fell in with a regiment of Russians, or rather
+detachments from many regiments. Whoever they were they did not appear
+to be in high favour with the Major. "Our army," said he, "is divided
+into three classes--the first we can trust for discipline and ability;
+the second consists of Cossacks and other irregulars, whose business is
+reconnoitring, plundering, and running away when they see the Enemy; the
+men before you compose the third--fellows who know nothing and do
+nothing, but can stand quietly in the place assigned them and get killed
+one after another without ever thinking of turning their backs"; and
+their appearance was very like their character--patient, heavy,
+slumbering, hard-featured countenance; sitting or standing without any
+appearance of animation.
+
+At St. Avold we began to lose the French language, and from this my
+fluency was reduced to signs, or at most to a very laconic speech--"Ich
+Englander, Ich woll haben Brod mitt Caf�," &c. At Dendrich, a little
+village near Forbach, we crossed the new line of demarcation between
+France and Austria, and found the towns chiefly occupied by Bavarians.
+Unless I am much mistaken, this country will soon be a bone of
+contention; the people (as far as I can judge in three days) are
+dissatisfied, and the leaders of France look with a jealous eye on the
+encroachment, and an imaginary line of separation will not easily be
+respected. Here I saw what is meant by a German forest--as far as the
+eye could reach all was wood. Austria may, if she pleases, by her new
+accession of territory become charcoal vendor to the whole world. The
+road is excellent, carried on in a fine, broad, straight line. Till
+Buonaparte spoke the word, there was no regular communication between
+Metz and Mayence, now there is not a more noble road for travelling. We
+were now in the Hock country; in the Villages we bought what I should
+have called wine of the same sort for 6d. a bottle....
+
+On Thursday, the 21st, we entered Mayence, over and through similar
+drawbridges, bastions, hornworks, counterscarps as at Metz; here we met
+a curious assemblage. By the first Gate were stationed a guard of
+Prussians with the British Lions on their caps, John Bull having
+supplied some Prussian Regiments with Uniforms. At the next gate a band
+of white Austrians, with their caps shaded with boughs of Acacia (you
+will remember that their custom of wearing green boughs in their Hats
+was interpreted by the French into a premeditated insult). These, with
+Saxons in red, Bavarians in light blue, and Russians in green, made out
+the remainder of the motley crew. We found an excellent Inn, and dined
+at a Table d'H�te with about 30 people. The striking contrast we already
+perceived between the French and Austrians was very amusing, the former
+all bustle and loquacity with dark hair, the latter grave and sedate
+with light hair; the Inns, accommodation, eating, &c., much cleaner; a
+band played to us during dinner, and I was pleased to see the Austrian
+moustachios recede with a smile of satisfaction as they listened to the
+"Chasse de Henri Quatre."
+
+There is little to be seen in the town. I found a most intelligent
+bookseller, and was tantalised with the number of fine Engravings, &c.,
+I might have purchased for a trifle....
+
+I have heard a curious political report repeated here, which is current
+all over the Continent--that Austria has sold the Netherlands and
+Brabant to England; the report gains credit probably because the towns
+in that part of the country are still garrisoned with British troops.
+Poor England is certainly not much beloved; we are admired, feared,
+respected, and courted; but these people will have, and perhaps with
+some reason, that upon all occasions our own Interest is the sole object
+of consideration; that our Treaties have the good of ourselves and not
+the peace of Europe at heart; and so far they carry this opinion, that I
+was very near getting into a quarrel with a fat man in the Diligence who
+spoke it as a common idea that we fought with our money and not with our
+blood, for that we were too rich to risk our lives, and had there been a
+bridge that Napoleon would have been in London long ago. I told him he
+knew nothing at all about the matter (to which, by the bye, he
+afterwards virtually assented), and as a Frenchman's choler does not
+last long, we were good friends the rest of the journey, and he
+apologised for his behaviour, saying, it was a failing of his--"de
+s'�chauffer bient�t." Upon one point we agreed, too, in politics, viz.,
+being Anti-Napoleonites.
+
+Now for the Rhine. At 10 o'clock on Friday, July 22nd, in a little
+rotten, picturesque-looking boat and two men (preferring a private
+conveyance to the public passage boats for the convenience of stopping
+at pleasure) we left Mayence; the river here is about half a mile
+across, traversable by a bridge of boats. The Maine falls into it just
+above the town, and there appears nothing on the Frankfort or Strasburgh
+side to interest a traveller's eye, the country being flat vine or corn
+land. The Stream runs with a steady rapidity of about three and a half
+or 4 miles an hour, so that in a boat, with the addition of oars, you
+may proceed at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. The distance to
+Cologne is about 120 miles. On the bank of the River we saw some of
+those immense floats preparing which are composed of timbers for the
+Holland markets. We glided with an imperceptible motion down the stream,
+expecting as we proceeded to behold the magnificent ruins of which we
+had heard so much. But, alas! village succeeded village, town followed
+town, and yet not a single turret made its appearance. We sat with our
+sketch books in battle array, but our pencils were asleep; we began to
+regret the uninteresting, even country we had passed from Metz to
+Mayence, and the time which might be called lost in coming so far for so
+useless a purpose, and to make vow after vow that we would never in
+future believe the account given by others respecting people and places.
+By this time our appetites began to grow keen, luckily, just at the time
+when our spirits began to flag, and, accordingly, we went on shore at
+Rudesheim, famous for its excellent hock, and having dispatched a dinner
+and bottle of hock we ventured forth to explore, and, luckily, fell in
+with a little Gothic round tower, which, with the dinner, rather raised
+our spirits and enabled us to proceed 4 or 5 miles further to Bingen
+when we turned a Corner....
+
+I verily believe such another corner does not exist in the world. From
+the corner of Bingen must be dated the beauties of the Rhine, and from
+the corner of Bingen I commence my next letter; suffice it now to say
+that the moment we turned the Corner we both, with one impulse, called
+out, "Oh!" and sat in the boat with our hands uplifted in speechless
+astonishment....
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+AIX LA CHAPELLE, _July 27, 1814_.
+
+I left you turning the corner of Bingen, now let me describe what there
+presented itself. On the left a beautiful picturesque town, with tower
+and picturesque-looking steeples placed each exactly on the spot an
+artist would have selected, with hills and woods on each side and a
+bridge running over a small river which emptied itself in the Rhine.
+Immediately before us, on a small islet, stood the Tower of Mausthurm,
+or the Mouse turret, so called from a tradition that a Baron once locked
+up a number of his Vassals in a tower and then set fire to it and
+consumed it and its inhabitants, in consequence of which certain mice
+haunted him by day and by night to such a degree that he fled his
+Country and built this solitary Tower on its island. But all this would
+not do. The Mice pursued him to his Island, and the tale ends in his
+being devoured by them there.
+
+On both sides the river hills covered with vines and woods rose
+abruptly, and on the right, tottering on a pinnacle that frowns over the
+flood, stood the Castle of Ehrenfels....
+
+It would be quite impossible, and indeed unnecessary (as my sketch-book
+can best unfold the tale), to describe all we saw. For above 100 miles,
+with little interruption, the same scenery presented itself, attaining
+its superlative point of grandeur in the neighbourhood of Lorich and
+Bacharach. It might be called a perfect Louvre of old Castles, each
+being a chef d'oeuvre of its species. I could almost doubt the
+interference of a human hand in their creation. Placed upon elevated and
+apparently impossible crags, they look more like the fortresses of the
+Giants when they warred against the Gods than any thing else. But the
+Castles were not the only points of attraction. Every mile presented a
+village as interesting as the battlements which threatened to crush
+them to death from above. Each vied with its neighbour in picturesque
+beauty, and the people as well as the buildings in these remote nooks
+and corners partook of the wild character of the scenery. A shower of
+rain and close of the day induced us to make Bacharach our
+sleeping-place. The Landlord, with his night-cap on his head and pipe in
+his mouth, expressed no surprise at our appearance. The coffee and the
+milk and the hock came in due season when he had nodded acquiescence to
+my demand, and he puffed away with as much indifference as if two
+strange Englishmen had not been in his house. We found good clean beds,
+and should have slept very well but for the deep-toned Bell of the
+Church within a few yards of us, which tolled the time of night every
+half-hour, and for a watchman who, by way of murdering the little sleep
+which had survived the sound of the Bell, sounded with all his might a
+cow-horn, and then, as if perfectly satisfied that he had awaked every
+soul in the village, bawled out the hour and retired, leaving them just
+time to fall asleep again before the half-hour called for a repetition
+of his exertions.
+
+Every evening about dusk, in our course down the river, a curious
+Phenomenon presented itself which to me, as an Entomologist, had
+peculiar charms. We were surrounded as far as the eye could reach with
+what appeared to be a fall of snow, but which, in fact, was a cloud of
+beautiful white Ephemera just emerged from their Chrysalis state to
+flutter away in their perfection for one or two hours before their
+death. I mention this circumstance now, whilst it is fresh in my memory,
+for I really should hesitate in relating it before company for fear of
+being accused of traveller's stories. I had heard of them before, and
+was therefore not so much surprised, though the infinite number was
+truly astonishing.
+
+On Saturday, 23rd, we dined and spent an hour or two in Coblentz, which,
+situated at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, is strongly
+fortified towards the land. There is little worth notice in the town
+except a Stone fountain erected by Napoleon, from the pipes of which run
+the united streams of the two rivers. Upon these are carved in large
+letters the two following inscriptions, the one immediately below the
+other in characters precisely similar:--
+
+           A.N. MDCCCXII.
+     M�morable par la Campagne
+         Contre les Russes
+  Sous la Pr�fecture de Jules Dragon.
+
+     *       *       *       *       *
+
+      Vu et approuv� par nous
+ Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz
+       Le Ier. Janvier 1814.
+
+At Coblentz as well as at Cologne the Rhine is passed by a flying
+bridge--_i.e._, a large boat moored to several other smaller ones, whose
+only use is to keep the large one steady. It swings from bank to bank,
+according as the mooring line is placed on one side or the other, merely
+by the action of the current producing a sort of compound motion.
+Coblentz is completely commanded by the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, a
+rock as high as Dover, the summit and side covered with the ruins of the
+fortress which the French blew up. The people in this country are pretty
+well satisfied with the change of affairs. They led a life of
+unsupportable tyranny under the rod of Napoleon. The river was crowded
+with custom house officers. Not a man could pass without being
+personally searched for Coffee and sugar in every part of his dress. All
+they lament now is the uncertainty of their fate. Many expressed a hope
+that the report of their being sold to England might be true. All they
+want is certainty, and then their commerce will revive. As it is,
+nothing can be more uninteresting in a commercial point of view than
+this noble river. We did not see above a dozen Merchants' barks in the
+course of 120 miles, and yet they say trade is tenfold greater than when
+Napoleon governed. Below Coblentz we passed some of the Ch�teaux of the
+German Princes, which are generally large, uncomfortable-looking houses,
+fitted up, as far as external examination allowed us to judge, without
+taste. The river became rather dull, but at Andernach, where we slept,
+it began to improve and to promise better for the next morning, and for
+some miles we were not disappointed.
+
+We were under the necessity of travelling on the Sunday, which in our
+situation I certainly held to be no crime. What I could do I did in
+inducing our Boatmen to attend their Mass. Religion, which appears to be
+nearly extinct in France, is by no means so in Germany. We find the
+churches all well attended and plentifully scattered over the whole
+country. In the course of the morning we passed a large Chapel dedicated
+to St. Apollonius, and noted for its Miracles, all of which were
+recorded by our Boatmen with the air of implicit reverence and belief.
+It happened to be the festival of the Saint, and from a distance of 10
+or 20 miles even the road was crowded with persons going or coming to
+their favourite shrine. You will recollect what Mme. de Sta�l says of
+the Germans' taste for religious music. Of this we had a specimen
+to-day. As we passed the height upon which the Chapel stood a boat
+containing 40 or 50 people put off from the shore and preceded us for
+several miles chaunting almost the whole way hymns and psalms. In the
+Evening, soon after leaving Bonn, we came up with another containing
+about 120, who every quarter of an hour delighted us with the same
+strains. They glided with the stream, and gave us time to row alongside,
+and we continued in their company the remainder of the day.
+
+Could I have heard and not have seen all would have been perfect, but
+the charm was almost broken by the heterogeneous mixture of piety and
+indifference, outward practice and inward negligence. Some were telling
+their beads and chattering Pater Nosters, some were at one moment on
+their knees, in the next quarrelling with their neighbour; but, after
+all, the general effect was so solemn and imposing that I was willing to
+spare my criticisms, and give them credit for perhaps more than they
+deserved. Conceive such a concourse of persons, on one of the finest
+Evenings imaginable, floating silently with the stream, and then at a
+signal given bursting forth into songs of praise to God--all perfect in
+their respective parts, now loud, now low, the softer tones of the women
+at one time singing alone. If the value of a Sabbath depends on the
+religious feelings excited, I may safely say I have passed few so
+valuable. They had no Priest amongst them, the hymns were the
+spontaneous flow of the moment. Whenever one began the rest were sure to
+follow.
+
+When upon the subject of music I must be the advocate of Mme. de Sta�l.
+She has been accused of falsehood in stating that in the Cottages in
+Germany a Piano Forte was a necessary piece of furniture. I cannot from
+my own knowledge go quite so far, but from my short experience of German
+manners I may safely say there is no nation in which Music is so
+popular. We have heard the notes of pianos and harpsichords issuing from
+holes and corners where they might least be expected, and as for flutes
+and other instruments, there is scarcely a village in which, in the
+course of an hour, you will not hear a dozen.
+
+At Cologne we were lodged at a French Inn kept by the landlord and his
+wife alone--no waiters, no other attendance--and yet the house was
+spacious, clean, and excellent. I never met with more attention and wish
+to accommodate, and not only in the house; the exertions of our host
+were exerted still further in our behalf. He introduced us to a Club
+chiefly composed of French Germans, who were as hospitably inclined as
+himself. One gentleman invited us to his house, would give us some
+excellent hock, introduced us to his family, amongst the rest a little
+fellow with a sabre by his side, with curling locks and countenance and
+manner interesting as Owen's. Hearing I was fond of pictures and painted
+glass, he carried me to a fine old Connoisseur, his father-in-law, whose
+fears and temper were a good deal roused by the "peste," as he termed
+it, of still having half a dozen Cossacks in his house. However, they
+were officers, and by his own account did him no harm whatever; but for
+fear of accidents he had unpanelled his great dining-room. Our friend
+had a large and excellent house, in a style very unlike and far more
+magnificent than is usually met with in England. In return for his
+civility I was delighted to have it in my power to give him a few ounces
+of our Pecco Tea which remained of our original stock. Travelling in
+Germany is certainly neither luxurious nor rapid; the custom of hiring
+a carriage for a certain distance and taking post horses does not extend
+here, and you are therefore reduced to the following dilemma, either
+taking a Carriage and the same horses for your journey or the "Post
+Waggon," or Diligence, which is of the two rather more rapid. Of two
+evils we preferred the last, and at half-past 8 this morning were landed
+at Aix la Chapelle, having performed the journey of 45 miles in 12 and a
+half hours shaken to death, choked with dust, and poisoned with tobacco,
+for here a great hooked pipe is as necessary an appendage to the mouth
+as the tongue itself. Under the circumstances above mentioned, with the
+Thermometer at about 98 into the bargain, you may conceive we were
+heartily glad to run from the coach office to the Baths as instinctively
+as young ducks. On looking over the list of persons visiting the place,
+we were delighted to find the names of Lord and Lady Glenbervie[86] and
+Mr. North.[87] Accordingly, having first ascended the highest steeple in
+the town, and been more disgusted than in any place I have seen since
+Spain, with virgins and dolls in beads and muslins, and pomatum and
+relics of saints' beards, and napkins from our Saviour's tomb, and
+mummeries quite disgraceful, we went to call upon them....
+
+We find this, like every other town and village, swarming with Prussian
+troops. General Kleist commands, and has no less an army than 170,000.
+This seems very like a determination of the King of Prussia not to give
+up the slice he has gained in the grand continental scramble. Every
+uniform we saw was of British manufacture. An officer told me we had
+furnished sufficient for 70,000 Infantry and 20,000 Cavalry.
+
+There is little to be seen in this place. The country about reminded me
+most of England; for the first time on the continent we saw hedges and
+trees of tolerable size growing amongst them. We were directed above all
+other things to pay our respects to the great gambling table. It is,
+indeed, one of the Lions of the Town; the room is splendid in size, and
+everybody goes to see it. It is open 3 times a day for about 2 or 3
+hours each time. About 50 or 60 people were winning or losing round a
+large table at a game apparently something like vingt un; not a word was
+said, but money was shovelled to the right and left very plentifully....
+I forgot to mention that near Linz on the Rhine we passed a headland
+fronted and inlaid with as fine a range of Basaltic columns as the
+Giant's Causeway, some bent, some leaning, some upright. They are
+plentiful throughout that part of the country, and are remarkably
+regular; all the stone posts are formed of them, and even here I still
+see them....
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH DILIGENCE.]
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+BRUXELLES, _29th_.
+
+After a night and greater part of two days passed in a species of oven
+called a French Diligence, with R�aumur Thermometer at 23--hotter, you
+will observe, than is necessary to hatch silkworms, and very nearly
+sufficient to annihilate your unfortunate brother and husband--did we
+arrive at Bruxelles.... I must give you a few details that you may fully
+understand the extent of our misery. We arrived at Li�ge all well, with
+only two other passengers; conceive our sorrow when on re-entering the
+Diligence after dinner we found besides ourselves and a lady the places
+occupied by a Dutch officer, who sat gasping without his coat, and so
+far exhausted by the heat, though he had been ten years in Batavia, that
+his pipe hung dangling as if he had not breath sufficient to keep its
+vestal fire alive, and a lady with two children besides living
+intruders. A net from the top was filled with bags, baskets, and
+band-boxes. Our night was sad indeed, and the groans of our
+fellow-travellers and the ineffectual fluttering of a fan which the
+Officer used proved how little they were satisfied with the order of
+things. The children were crammed with a succession of French Plums,
+almonds, garlicked mutton, liqueurs, and hock, all of which ingredients
+the kind mother endeavoured to cement on their Stomachs by Basons of
+milk at sunrise, but no sooner had a few additional jolts brought these
+bons-bons into close contact than the windows were occupied the rest of
+the journey by the stretched-out heads of the poor children.
+
+The heat has been more excessive for the last 4 or 5 days than has been
+experienced for many years in this country; and, in short, when _I_
+think it worth while to mention heat as the cause of real inconvenience,
+you may consider it such as would have thrown you into a fever. Enough
+of our personal sufferings, which you may easily conceive have been few
+indeed if the above is worth recording....
+
+I left Aix la Chapelle with no great regret. The Country round it is
+pretty, much resembling Kent, but as a town or watering-place it has
+nothing to recommend but its gambling-table. I expected to have found a
+museum of human nature and national character.--Tables d'h�tes crowded
+with the best bred of all countries, but just the reverse. There were
+Tables d'h�te's at the minor Inns tolerably frequented, but none at the
+most fashionable; there the guests lived by themselves. There is no
+point of rendezvous, no promenade, no Assembly room, where the
+concentrated world may be seen. Like Swedenborgh's theory of living in
+the midst of invisible spirits, so at Aix la Chapelle (unless time and
+opportunity may have thrown him into private circles) a traveller may be
+surrounded by Princes and Potentates without knowing or benefiting by
+their illustrious presence; the Glenbervies made the same complaint.
+From Aix to Li�ge we had the company of a very pleasant, well-informed
+citizen of Li�ge (indeed, all the military classes in Germany seem well
+informed), who in pathetic terms lamented his lot. In the cutting up of
+this grand continental dish Prussia has had Benjamin's mess in this part
+of the country. We have his troops, with few exceptions, forming a
+cordon within the Rhine from Saarbruck to Li�ge, and they are by no
+means popular. We have clothed them, and all the people feed them,
+besides having been called upon for contributions. It is flattering to
+see the high respect shown to the British character, which increases as
+opportunities occur of observing its effects. If we were like the people
+of Bruxelles (said our Li�geois) all would be well; we should rejoice in
+having a garrison. British troops, so far from exacting contributions or
+demanding free quarters, pay for everything, are beloved by the people,
+and money circulates, whereas under the Prussian government we pay all,
+are put to all manner of inconvenience, and receive neither thanks nor
+satisfaction. They appear to have been peculiarly unfortunate in all
+wars. Poor Li�ge has received a thump from one, a kick from another, and
+been robbed by a third. The Austrians have burnt their Suburbs, the
+Republicans sold their national and ecclesiastical Estates, and lately
+they have had the pleasure of being pillaged by French Marshals and
+satisfying the voracious appetite of the Crown Prince, who put them to
+an expense of 150,000 frs. in providing his table for 7 weeks, and when
+they hinted that they thought it but fair their Royal visitor should pay
+for his own dinners, he departed, leaving his bills unpaid. He seems to
+have been secreting himself here like a Cat in a barn watching the
+motions of the mice, acting solely from interested motives, and ready to
+pounce upon whatever might be safely turned to his own advantage. When
+the French retreated out of Holland the Duke of Tarentum[88] did the
+poor people at Li�ge the honour of making their town a point in the line
+of his march. He stopped one night, and because the inhabitants did not
+illuminate and express great joy at his illustrious presence he demanded
+an immediate contribution of 300,000 frs., 150,000 of which were paid
+the next morning. Luckily the Allies appeared towards Noon, and I hope
+his Grace will not get the remainder.
+
+In the character of almost all these French military leaders there are
+such blots and stains that one sickens at the thought of being of the
+same species. It would be endless to recount the acts of rapacity
+committed by all these engines of Imperial France; conscious that their
+throne might one day fall, they lost no time in amassing wealth, and
+pillage was the watchword from the Cathedral to the Cottage. Lisle is in
+the hands of the French, and by their own account the people have
+suffered every species of misery, yet they are strong for Napoleon,
+Garrison and Citizen, and I cannot find that they ever vented their
+feelings in any other way than in nicknaming their General Maison[89] (a
+cruel Tyrant who destroyed all their suburbs under pretence they might
+be in the way in case of a siege, which might have been done in a day
+had the Allies ever thought of such a thing); he is in consequence
+called General Brise Maison, and then the foolish people laugh and cry,
+"Que c'est bon cela," think they have done a great feat and submit like
+lambs. The country from Li�ge to Brussels wears the same Anglicised
+face--hedgerows and trees without any leading features. Bruxelles is a
+nice town--and really it was a gratification in passing the gate to see
+a fat John Bull keeping guard with his red coat. The Garrison consists
+of about 3,000, amongst the rest a regiment of Highlanders whose dress
+is the marvel of the people. A French Lady who came with us from Li�ge
+had seen some and expressed her utter surprise, and as if she was
+speaking to one who doubted the fact, she repeated, "C'est vrai!
+actuellement rien qu'un petit Jupon--mais comment!" and then she lifted
+her eyes and hands and reiterated, "petit jupon--et comment,"
+concluding, as if she almost doubted the evidence of her own senses, "Je
+les ai vus moi-m�me."
+
+At Bruxelles at least we expected to see a numerous and genteel Table
+d'h�te, and in this hope took up our quarters at a magnificent Hotel in
+the Place Royale--very fine indeed, and very full of English, much too
+full, for though we saw a few in the passages, or eyed them as they
+peeped out of their doors, and sat down with about 15 or 20 at table,
+"They spoke not, they moved not, they looked not around." By dint of
+asking for salt and mustard, and giving my next neighbour as much
+trouble as I could to show I had a tongue which I should be happy to
+use, we towards the 3rd Act of the Entertainment began to talk, and
+ascended gradually from the meats to the wines (here, it is true, there
+was some prolixity), and then to other subjects pretty well, though the
+burthen of my companion's song was that "the French were all d---- d
+rascals and ought to be well licked." We tried the Play; there we found
+a few English officers and one English lady, few of any other nation,
+not 50 altogether, in a house dismal and dirty. There is a delightful
+sort of wood and promenade called the Park....
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH SHIPS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE LOW COUNTRIES
+
+Dutch arks--Walcheren memories--Earth-covered ships--Cossacks and
+keys--Brother alleys--Bergen op Zoom--Cossack shopping--Goat
+curricles--Treckschuyt travelling--Booksellers' shops.
+
+After Brussels the travellers proceeded to Holland, and saw Antwerp on
+their way. They had now gone beyond the country which Napoleon's
+victories had made famous, and the chief military interest of the
+country through which they passed, just eleven months before Waterloo,
+was derived from two very melancholy events for an Englishman to
+record--the Walcheren Expedition and the storming of Bergen op Zoom.
+
+
+LETTER XII
+
+BERGEN OP ZOOM, _July 31st_.
+
+...On leaving Bruxelles the country immediately loses its character, and
+becomes entirely Dutch, by which we exchange for the better, leaving
+dirty floors, houses, and coaches for as much cleanliness as soap and
+water can produce; I only regret from my experience of last night that
+they should be so much occupied in washing as to forget that drying is
+also a luxury, but there is no such novelty in this country, and so much
+to be seen that I have no time to catch cold. Our Diligence from
+Bruxelles held 10 people inside and 3 in front, and we had all ample
+elbow room; it was large, as you may suppose, as everything else in
+Holland is from top to bottom. Hats, Coats, breeches, pipes, horns,
+cows--are all gigantic, and so are the dogs, and because the poor things
+happen to be so, they harness a parcel of them together and breed them
+up to draw fish-carts. I yesterday met a man driving four-in-hand; in
+turning a corner and meeting three of these open-mouthed Mastiffs
+panting and pulling, you might almost fancy it was Cerberus drawing the
+Chariot of Proserpine--but I am wandering from the Diligence, which
+deserves some description. It resembled a little Theatre more than a
+coach, with front boxes, pit, &c., lined with common velvet. We had a
+curious collection of passengers. Opposite to me sat a prize
+thoroughbred Dutch woman as clean and tidy as she was ugly and
+phlegmatic, with a close-plaited cap, unruffled white shawl, and golden
+cross suspended from her neck. I took a sketch while she stared me in
+the face unconscious of the honor conferred. By her side sat a French
+woman crowned with the lofty towers of an Oldenburg Bonnet. By my side a
+spruce, pretty, Englishwoman, whom I somehow or other suspected had
+been serving with his Britannic Majesty's troops now occupying Belgium.
+She had on her right hand a huge Brabanter who spoke English, and had
+acquired, I have no doubt, a few additional pounds of fat by living in
+London. Edward sat behind me in a line with the Brabanter's wife and a
+Dutch peasant. These, with two or three minor characters, completed our
+cargo, and away we went on the finest road in the world towards Antwerp
+between a triple row of Abeles and poplars, and skirting the bank of a
+fine canal upon which floated a fleet of Kuyp's barks, and by which
+grazed Paul Potter's oxen--the whole road was, in truth, a gallery of
+the Flemish school. By the door of every ale-house a living group from
+Teniers and Ostade, with here and there bits from Berghem and Hobbema,
+&c. Halfway between Bruxelles and Antwerp is Malines. I had began to
+fear that I had lost my powers of observation, and was, therefore, no
+longer struck with the external appearance of the towns--in fact, that
+the novelty was gone, and that my eyes were too much familiarised with
+such objects to notice them. Happily Malines undeceived me, and
+convinced me I was still fully alive to whatever had any real
+peculiarity of character to entitle it to notice. With the exception of
+the villages on the Rhine, all the towns and houses I had seen lately
+had little to recommend them, and were like half the people in the
+world, possessed of no character of their own, their doors and windows
+like all other doors and windows, but Malines had doors and windows of
+its own, and seemed to take a pride in exhibiting its own little queer
+originalities; in every house was a different idea. The people were of a
+piece with their dwellings; I could almost fancy I was permitted to
+inspect the toys of some Brobdignag baby who washed, cleaned, and combed
+the beings before me every morning and locked them up in their separate
+boxes every evening. When the nice green doors of the nice painted
+houses opened, I bethought me of the Dutch ark you bought for Owen, and
+was prepared to make my best bow to Noah and his wife, who I expected to
+step forth with Ham and Japhet, and all the birds and beasts behind
+them.
+
+We approached Antwerp as the sun was setting behind its beautiful
+Cathedral and shining upon the pennants of the fleet which Bonaparte has
+kindly built for the accommodation of the allied powers. The Antwerpers
+had a well-arranged promenade and tea garden, &c., about a mile from the
+house, well wooded. These, with all the houses in the suburbs, the
+French entirely destroyed, leaving not a wreck behind. I must acquit
+them of wanton cruelty here, however, as in sieges these devastations
+are necessary. We passed thro' a complete course of fortifications, and
+then entered what, from all I can perceive, is the best town I have seen
+on the continent.
+
+It is a mass of fine streets, fine houses, and fine churches; the Tower
+of the Cathedral is quite a Bijou 620 steps in height! but the ascent
+was well rewarded; from thence a very respectable tour of about 30 miles
+in every direction may be accomplished. Walcheren and Lillo (the
+celebrated fort which prevented our ascending the Scheld) were visible
+without any difficulty, with Cadsand and all the well-known names of
+that silly expedition,[90] rendered apparently more silly by seeing how
+impossible it would have been to have taken Antwerp unless by a regular
+siege, which might have been of endless duration; we might have
+bombarded the basons in which the men-of-war were deposited, and with
+about as much success as Sir Thos. Graham,[91] who, after expending a
+mint of money in bombs and powders, in the course of two days contrived
+to send about half a dozen shells on board the line of battleships. I
+was on board the _Albania_, which had suffered the most. The extent of
+her damage was two shells which passed thro' the decks, exploding
+without much mischief, and a round-shot which shivered a quarter gallery
+and then fell on the ice--indeed, bombarding vessels, which are objects
+so comparatively small, is something like attempting to shoot wild ducks
+on Radnor Mere by firing over their heads with ball in hopes that in its
+descent it may come in contact with the bird's head.
+
+About a dozen Gun Brigs were sunk, all of which we saw with their masts
+above the water; a few houses near the Bason were shattered, and about
+20 Townsmen killed. The country round Antwerp is quite flat, and
+appears, with the exception of 2 or 3 miles round the town, a perfect
+wood; fancy such a wood with the Scheldt winding through it, several
+roads radiating in lines straight as arrows, with here and there a
+steeple breaking the horizontal line, and you may suppose yourself at
+the top of the Cathedral. The Town is large, with the river washing the
+whole of one side; on the south are the dockyards, with rope walks and
+everything in fine style; the destruction of these might have been
+practicable, as they are rather beyond the line of immediate
+fortifications, but probably they have works for their express
+protection, and the advantage gained must have been in proportion to the
+stores and vessels building. I counted 16 or 17 ships of the line on the
+Stocks, 2 or 3 of 120 Guns. In the Scheldt floated 13 in a state of
+apparent equipment; in the basons 9--all of the line--thus completing a
+fleet of 39 fine Ships, besides a few frigates and Gun Brigs
+innumerable--of these only two were Dutch.
+
+It was curious to see such a fleet, and some of them were actually worn
+out, the utmost extent of whose naval career had been an expedition to
+Flushing. On descending the Spire, we examined the Carillons, which are
+a Gamut of chiming bells of all sizes--the total number for them and
+the Church is 82; by a clock work they play every 7 minutes, so that the
+neighbourhood of the Cathedral is a scene of perpetual harmony; they can
+also be played by hand. Most of the churches in this country have them.
+Our Guards in marching into Alkmaar were surprised and gratified in
+hearing the church bells strike up "God Save the King." There are
+several good churches in the town, and once all were decorated with the
+works of Rubens, which Napoleon carried off. I should, however, be
+perfectly satisfied with a selection from the remainder. I saw a Vandyck
+on the subject of our Saviour recommending the Virgin Mary to St. John,
+which was incomparable; it quite haunts me at this moment, and, however
+horrible the effect of the bleeding figure on the Cross, I do not wish
+to lose the impression. The Dutch have carried the art of carving in
+wood to a most extraordinary pitch of perfection. I am surprised it has
+not been more spoken of; some of their pulpits are really quite
+marvellous. Religion increases and, I think, improves. There is less
+mummery here than at Aix and some other places I have lately seen, with
+the exception of a few little Saviours in powdered wigs and gilt satin
+and muslin frocks, and a very singular figure as large as life, supposed
+to represent the deposition in the holy sepulchre, which was covered by
+a shroud of worsted gauze, studded over with enormous artificial flowers
+and tinsel like a Lady's court dress.
+
+Wherever we went, at whatever hour, Mass was performing to good
+congregations. The women here all dress in long black shawls, or,
+rather, hooded wrappers, which, as they knelt before their confessional
+boxes, were extremely appropriate and solemn. The English have a church
+here for the garrison; it is simplicity itself. They have even removed
+several fine pictures, the rooms having been a sort of museum--the
+Vandyck I alluded to among the rest....
+
+In our morning's tour we, of course, visited the celebrated basons for
+the men-of-war. "Still harping upon these ships," I can fancy you
+exclaiming; "when will he have done with them?" You must bear it
+patiently. It was on account of these said basons, in a great measure,
+that I came to Antwerp, so you must endure their birth, parentage, and
+education.
+
+There are two Basons, one calculated for 16, the other for 30 sail of
+the line; they are simple excavations. Nature never thought of such a
+thing, and gave no helping hand. It was Napoleon's work from first to
+last; the labour and expense must have been enormous. They open by dock
+gates immediately into the Scheldt, from whence each ship can proceed
+armed and fitted cap � pie (if she dares) to fight the English. They
+were begun and finished in two years, but improvements were suggested,
+and there is no knowing what more the Emperor intended to do.
+Precautions had been taken during the bombardment to preserve the
+Ships. For instance, all the decks were propped up by a number of spars,
+by which means if a bomb fell it did no other mischief than forcing its
+way through and carrying all before its immediate course, whereas
+without the props it might have shaken the timbers and weakened the
+access considerably. In every ship also were 2 cartloads of earth, to
+throw over any inflammable substance which might have fallen on board.
+From this mole hill of a truth was engendered a mountainous falsehood
+for home consumption. I read in the English Papers of the time that the
+French had scuttled their ships to the level of the water, and then
+covered them over with earth, which was carefully sodded!! Sir Thos.
+Graham's batteries were very near the basons, half-way between the
+village of Muxham, about 2 miles from the town and the nearest French
+battery. From one of the latter we had a perfect conception of the whole
+business. Without saying a word about my extreme partiality and fears
+for the safety of No. 1, and probable inconvenience which might ensue
+from loss of said No. 1 to Nos. 2, 3 and 4, I wonder much whether my
+curiosity would have allowed me to sleep quite in the back ground. The
+sight must from this point have been superb, as it was the intention to
+throw the bombs over this battery so as to make them fall in the bason
+amongst the ducks. The top of the Cathedral would have been perfection,
+but the Governor most vexatiously kept the keys....
+
+We found abundance of British troops here, remnants of all the regiments
+who had survived the storming of Bergen op Zoom, about 3 or 4,000....
+They have no reason to complain of their quarters, though it is possible
+many of them may be of the same opinion with a soldier of the Guards,
+who, in reply to my question of "How do you like Antwerp?" said with
+great earnestness, "I like St. James's Park a great deal better." I
+observed several ladies with their "petits chapeaux," and I must do them
+the justice to say they are much handsomer than the French, German, or
+Dutch.... English Curricles, coaches, and Chariots are to be seen, and
+some few English horses, which are certainly better calculated for speed
+and pleasant driving than the heavy breed of this country. Flanders
+Mares--as Henry VIII. tells us by comparing his queen to one--have never
+been remarkable for elegance and activity, and I was much entertained in
+seeing an Englishman break in a couple of these for a Tandem.
+
+...At our Table d'h�te, where we met nothing but English merchants, I
+heard the report of the day that Belgium was to be a sort of independent
+state, under the Prince of Orange's government, according to its old
+laws and customs, and that he was to hold a court at Bruxelles.... The
+Prince of Orange is now in fact gone to make his public entrance into
+Bruxelles....
+
+There is a custom that the key of the town should be presented to the
+possessor or Governor of the Town on a magnificent silver-gilt plate.
+When the Cossack chief came, as usual, the key was offered, which the
+good, simple man quietly took, put into his pocket, and forgot to
+return. When I saw the dish, the man told me this anecdote, and lamented
+wofully the loss of his key, which may possibly in future turn the lock
+of some dirty cupboard or other on the banks of the Don. It seems these
+Cossacks were immensely rich. Latterly I have been assured they could
+not fight had they been inclined, from the excessive height of their
+saddles and weight of their clothes; on the one they could scarcely sit,
+and with the others they could scarcely walk. They had always 3 or 4
+Coats or coverings, and in the folds of these were unkennelled 1,330
+Napoleons on one of them who happened to die at Bruxelles.
+
+We quitted Antwerp after dinner yesterday for Bergen op Zoom by a new
+sort of conveyance; by way of variety we "voitured" it, viz., hired a
+carriage, driver, and horses for Breda on our way to Amsterdam. It was a
+nice sort of Gig Phaeton, with comfortable seats for 4, the Driver on
+the front bench. I fear I must retract what I said in the beginning of
+this letter, as to the decided change in houses and people here. It was
+most conspicuous about Malines, but on this road there was nothing
+remarkable one way or the other.
+
+Our road was, however, Dutch throughout. Upon a sort of raised dyke,
+between a monotonous avenue of stunted willows, did we jog gently on,
+with nothing to relieve the eye but here and there a windmill or a farm.
+On our left we saw, as far as eye could reach, the Swamp (or I scarcely
+know what to call it), which fills up the spaces between the Main and
+South Beveland, and it almost gave me the Walcheren fever to look at it.
+The Evening Gun of Flushing saluted the Sun as he sank to rest behind
+these muddy isles, and we begun to fear, as night drew on, that we
+should have to take up our night's lodging in the Gig, for though he
+knew that the gates of the Fortress were closed at 9, our sturdy
+Dutchman moved not a peg the faster. However, we escaped the evil, and
+10 minutes before 9 we passed the drawbridge of the ditch leading to the
+Antwerp gate, which had been the grave of the 1st Column of Guards, led
+by General Cooke, on the 8th March....
+
+
+                                     NOTE.
+
+     _Storming of Bergen op Zoom, March 8, 1814._--Sir Thomas Graham had
+     landed 6,000 men on October 7, 1813, in S. Beveland, in order to
+     combine with the Prussians to drive the French from Holland.
+
+     On March 8, 1814, he led 4,000 British troops against Bergen op
+     Zoom. They were formed into four columns, of which two were to
+     attack the fortifications at different points; the third to make a
+     false attack; the fourth to attack the entrance of the harbour,
+     which is fordable at low water.
+
+     The first, led by Major-General Cooke, incurred some delay in
+     passing the ditch on the ice, but at length established itself on
+     the rampart.
+
+     The right column, under Major-General Skerret and Brigadier-General
+     Gore, had forced their way into the body of the place, but the fall
+     of General Gore and the dangerous wounds of Skerret caused the
+     column to fall into disorder and suffer great loss in killed,
+     wounded, and prisoners. The centre column was driven back by the
+     heavy fire of the place, but re-formed and marched round to join
+     General Cooke. At daybreak the enemy turned the guns of the place
+     on the unprotected rampart and much loss and confusion ensued.
+     General Cooke, despairing of success, directed the retreat of the
+     Guards, and, finding it impossible to withdraw his weak battalions,
+     he saved the lives of his remaining men by surrender.
+
+     The Governor of Bergen op Zoom agreed to a suspension of
+     hostilities for an exchange of prisoners. The killed were computed
+     at 300, prisoners, 1,800.--ED.
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+HAGUE, _August 4, 1814._
+
+Sterne pities the man who could go from Dan to Beersheba and say that
+all was barren, and I must pity the man who travels from Bergen op Zoom
+to Amsterdam and says that Holland, with all its flatness, is not worth
+visiting.
+
+    "Oh Willow, Willow, Willow, here
+     Each stands bowing to another,
+     And every Alley finds its brother."
+
+Nature never abhorred a vacuum more than she herself is abhorred by
+these Dutchmen; here rivers run above their levels and cattle feed where
+fishes were by nature intended to swim. Hogarth's line of beauty is
+unknown in Holland. No line can be either beautiful or palatable except
+that which (defined mathematically) is the shortest that can be drawn
+between two given points. But I have yet a great deal to say before I
+come to these roads. I left you at Bergen op Zoom, just arrived. On
+Sunday morning, after a little enquiry, we were glad to find there was a
+Protestant French Church in the town, and thither we went. I cannot say
+much for the sermon; it was on I Cor. vii. 20, in which a great deal of
+French display of vehemence and action made up in some degree for a
+feeble prolixity of words; in one part, however, he made an appeal,
+which has at least had the effect of eloquence and certainly came home
+to the heart. He described the miseries the country had so long endured
+and the happy change which had now taken place. But while he blest the
+change he lamented the tears which must be shed from the fatal effects
+of the war which produced it; and then turning to us, whom he perceived
+to be Englishmen, he proceeded: "It is for us to lament the sad disaster
+which this town was doomed to witness in the loss of our friends (our
+Compatriots, I may say), who shed their blood for the restoration of our
+liberties." After church I went into the vestry to tell him who and what
+I was. As an Englishman he shook me by the hand, and when he understood
+I was a Protestant minister he shook it again. Had he asked me to dine I
+should have accepted his invitation, but unluckily he lost my company by
+paying what he conceived to be a greater compliment. Like an Indian
+warrior, he offered the calumet of peace and begged I would go home and
+_smoke_ with him. Now, I would have gone through a good deal to have had
+some conversation with him, but really on one of the hottest days of
+July, when I was anxious, moreover, to inspect the fortification,
+smoking would not do, and taking our leave he sent his schoolmaster, an
+intelligent man who had a brother a Captain in one of our assaulting
+regiments, to be our guide and tell the melancholy tale.... And now let
+me see if I can make that clear to you which has never been made clear
+to anybody yet. "At 10 o'clock," said our guide, "I was at supper with a
+little party, some French officers being present; about half after 10
+some musket shots were heard; this was no uncommon sound and we took no
+notice; however, it rather increased, and the French sent a sergeant to
+know the cause, and remained chatting quietly. In about ten minutes in
+burst the sergeant, 'Vite, vite, � vos portes! Les Anglais sont dans la
+ville.'" I need not add the party broke up in a hurry; our Guide sallied
+forth with the rest, and went on the Ramparts for _curiosity_, but
+whilst he was gratifying this passion, on a pitch dark night, down drops
+a man who stood near him, and whiz flew some bullets, upon which he took
+to his heels, got home, and saw no more; indeed, had he been inclined it
+would have been impossible, for Patrols paraded the streets and shot
+every one who was not a French soldier. Thus far our schoolmaster was an
+eye-witness; for the remainder you must trust to my account from as
+minute an enquiry as I could make upon the spot with Sir T. Graham's
+dispatches in my hand, which threw very little light upon the subject.
+
+[Illustration: BERGEN OP ZOOM.
+
+    A. The Steenbergen Gate.
+    B. Breda Gate.
+    C. Antwerp Gate.
+    D. Water Gate.
+    E. Picket of veteran French Soldiers.
+    F. River or creek running into the town.
+    G. Side from whence the English approach.
+    H. Bastion near Breda Gate.
+
+Under the guidance of some inhabitants who had fled to the English, soon
+after 10 o'clock, March 8th, the ground covered with snow and ice, our
+troops marched in silence to their respective posts. The Guards, led by
+General Cooke, were to go round towards B and C, at A a false attack was
+to be made; another column was to force open the gates at B, and the
+4th column, led by Generals Skerret and Gore, proceeded by the dotted
+line, crossed the river up to their middle, and skirting round between
+the works were the first to enter the town behind some houses which
+fronted the Quay. Hitherto all went on well, and the object of all the
+Columns was to concentrate at G, but no sooner had the 4th Column gained
+its point (from what cause nobody knows, for I cannot conceive that the
+immediate loss of its two Generals was the sole cause) than all
+subordination seems to have been at an end, and the men, instead of
+going on, occupied themselves with revelling and drinking and getting
+warm in the houses by the Quay, and though many prisoners were taken,
+they were imprudently left unguarded with arms in their hands, which
+they very soon turned against their captors with fatal success. The
+doors and windows in this part of the town bore evidence of the business
+which for a short time was carried on. The Guards gained their point,
+and so did the Column at B in part, for the French were killed in great
+numbers on Bastion H, in fact, eleven Bastions were taken, and all
+before midnight; but from this period till 7 in the morning, when the
+affair closed, I can give you no clear account. Nobody seemed to know
+what was doing, all appears to have been confusion--not a gun was
+spiked, none were turned towards the Town. In the meantime the French
+were no inactive observers of what was passing; they came forward most
+manfully, fighting hand to hand, and though I could not find out that
+there was the slightest reason for suspecting they were at all prepared
+beyond what was usual, or aware of the attack, they contrived to be
+instantly at the right point, and though with barely 3,000 men to defend
+works, the inner circle of which is at least 2 miles in circumference,
+and with 3,900 men attacking, they remained master of the field, killing
+near 400 and taking 1,500 prisoners. The French General was an elderly
+man who left all to his Aide de Camp. He was, in fact, the head, and has
+been rewarded most deservedly in the ribbon of the Legion of Honor. The
+French, it is supposed, lost 5 or 600 men. The number was certainly
+great, and they were aware of it, for they buried their dead directly,
+to prevent the possibility of counting. The Bergen op Zoom people say it
+is utterly impossible to account for the failure of the assault but on
+the supposition that the English were led to conclude that the French
+would make no resistance or that they were badly officered. I should be
+sorry to believe the latter, and yet I heard from good authority that
+many of these, instead of encouraging their men at the Water post gate,
+were actually busied in collecting braziers and fires to warm themselves
+and rest upon their arms.
+
+It may be supposed that wading on such a night upwards of 50 yards in
+mud and water must have been dreadfully cold, but I can scarcely
+conceive that upon a service so important cold could have any influence;
+however, never having led an assault under such circumstances I can be
+no judge. Were I to give my own opinion, it would be this: That the
+affair was entrusted to certain General officers who were unfortunately
+killed in the beginning of the action; that no precautions appear to
+have been provided against such accidents, and no remedy applied to the
+confusion thereby created--the Columns knew not what to do, each on
+gaining its point possibly waiting for orders to proceed; that the
+darkness increased the confusion--in short, that "the right hand knew
+not what the left hand did," and that the French acted with incomparable
+bravery and skill. It should be added that most of their troops were
+conscripts. It is an ugly story altogether, and I shall say no more. A
+sketch of the works in and near the Antwerp gate will give you some idea
+of the spot which has proved the grave of so many fine officers and men.
+At 4 o'clock we quitted the town for Breda--the greatest part of the
+road inexorably flat and uninteresting; but what is lost in the country
+is gained in the Towns, villages, and people--they are _sui generis_.
+For 3 hours did we toil through a deep sand between parallel lines of
+willows of the same size, shape, and dimensions; then for 3 hours more
+did we proceed at a foot pace over a common; this brought us to Breda
+just in time for the gates, through which we trotted to the usual rattle
+of drawbridges, chains, &c. By the bright light of the moon at night and
+earliest dawn of the following morning we rambled through the streets.
+Breda was one of the last towns which got rid of its French garrison
+without a siege; it departed one night without beat of drum, and the
+Cossacks came in to breakfast, leaving the trembling inhabitants to
+doubt whether in escaping Scylla they were not approaching Charybdis.
+However, they behaved tolerably well. "Did they pillage?" said I to a
+Breda lady who travelled with us in the Diligence. "Oh non," she
+replied; "seulement quelque fois ils prenaient des choses sans payer."
+Thus a Cossack comes into a Shop, makes signs he wants some Cloth. The
+Dutchman, delighted with the idea of accommodating a new purchaser,
+takes down his best pieces. The Cossack looks them over, fixes on one,
+takes it up, pops it under his arm, and walks off, leaving the
+astonished vendor gaping behind his counter to meditate on the Profits
+of this new verbal ceremony.
+
+After the Cossacks came the Prussians, who remained a long time and were
+little better than the French--they lodged in free quarters, domineered
+without mercy, and paid for nothing. All the Prussian officers I have
+seen appeared gentleman-like men, but they are nowhere popular. The
+English succeeded the Prussians, they were all "charmants"; then came
+the Dutch who were "comme �a," but then "n'importe" they were their own
+countrymen. I rather begin to like the Dutch women. The next day in the
+Diligence we had my present informant, a lively, talkative damsel of
+Breda, a very pretty girl of the same town who talked nothing but
+Dutch, and an old Lady who would have been perfect if everything had
+been as charming as her Dress.
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT.]
+
+The Ladies are elegant and apparently well-behaved, with all the
+liveliness of the French. We met with no adventures till we came to a
+river; here a regiment of Dutch cavalry impeded our progress and luckily
+gave us time to get our breakfast; the next river brought us in contact
+with a detachment of Artillery waggons. Our Diligence consisted of a
+Machine with 6 seats inside, a cabriolet in which sat Edward and myself,
+on a little seat before us the driver with his legs dangling for want of
+a footboard. His patience had been rather put to the test by the
+cavalry, but the Artillery quite upset him, and on getting entangled
+amongst their train, uttering two of the French words he had learnt from
+his servitude under the Emperor, viz., "sacr� bleu," he popped his pipe
+into his pocket, threw the reins into my hands, and jumped down to
+request the Officer's permission to pass. Under existing circumstances I
+confess I did not much like the responsibility of the charge committed
+to me, but fortunately our conductor soon returned with permission to
+pass. We got out while he drove his 4 in hand quietly into the boat,
+every cranny of which was filled up by soldiers and artillery horses,
+which, as if to shew off the pomp of war, capered and reared before our
+sedate steeds, who only wanted pipes in their mouths to rival the
+impenetrable gravity of their driver. It is necessary to cross the Waal
+before you get to Gorum. When we got to the bank not a boat was to be
+had. With some difficulty at last our Coachman procured a miserable punt
+with a boy. What with our Trunks and passengers we were quite enough for
+it; indeed, the female part of our crew hesitated for some time; and
+well they might, for no sooner had we shoved from the shore than a leak
+was discovered which threatened serious consequences. It gained rapidly;
+the old Lady above mentioned was in despair, and sat with her thumb
+crammed over the spouting orifice the whole time, while a young man
+baled with his shoes as fast as possible. This was not all. The Stream
+carried us down, and our driver--no great sailor--caught crabs at every
+other pull; then we got upon a bank. Really I begun to think it would be
+quite as well to be safe now, but as for _fear_, it was out of the
+question, the lamentations of the women, and terrors of the old lady in
+particular, kept us quite in Spirits. The last event was the total
+overthrow of the driver by a sudden bump against the bank. Poor fellow!
+he was not only well drenched, but his head cut by falling against the
+seat of the boat in his overturn. Though every nerve vibrated with
+compassion, it was quite impossible to avoid laughing. Luckily a glass
+of vinegar well rubbed upon the wound soon set him to rights and good
+humor. Gorum and Naard were the last two towns which the French
+retained, and poor Gorum suffered sadly. The Suburbs, Tea gardens,
+avenues, walks, &c., were all destroyed by the French to prevent the
+Prussians coming in, and their houses and heads knocked about with shot
+and shells to drive the French out. Luckily the French listened to the
+entreaties of the people and capitulated.
+
+I wish they would bombard Knutsford or Macclesfield or some of our Towns
+for an hour or two, just to shew them what war is. Bang, whiz, down
+comes a shell and away goes a house. War and slavery have quite
+reconciled the Dutch to the abdication of Napoleon. In answer to the
+question, "�tes vous content de ces changements?" you meet with no
+doubtful shrug of the shoulders, no ambiguous "mais que, oui"; an
+instantaneous extra whiff of satisfaction is puffed forth, accompanied
+with the synonimous terms, "Napoleon et Diable." On leaving Gorum we
+acquired an accession of passengers--a protestant clergyman and a fat
+man, who looked much like a conjurer or alchymist. A protestant
+clergyman in Holland may be known by his dress--a cocked hat of a
+peculiar model covers a lank head of unpowdered hair. Nothing white
+appears throughout but the pipe in his mouth and cravat round his neck,
+a long black coat down to his ancles, with black worsted stockings and
+gold-headed cane. I must say they do not look over and above agreeable,
+and as they hate all innovations few have learnt French, so that I have
+been foiled in most of my attempts at conversation.
+
+From Gorum to Utrecht the country improves; we had hitherto travelled
+sometimes on Dyke tops, sometimes in Dyke bottoms which only required
+the efforts of a few able-bodied rats to let the water in upon us. It is
+quite surprising to see on what a precarious tenure Holland is held.
+Take but a Dyke away, overturn one dam, and see what discord
+follows--and this does sometimes happen. In 1809 the Ice broke through
+near Gorum and carried away countless houses, men, cattle, &c. I have
+said the country improved, _i.e._, we got into a land of villas and
+Trees, some of them beautifully laid out, and all, stable included,
+bright and clean as possible. Each, too, has its Summer house perched by
+the Canal side and (the Evening being fine) well filled with parties of
+ladies and gentlemen. The road for many miles was ornamented with wooden
+triumphal arches and hung with festoons of flowers, &c., as a compliment
+to the Emperor Alexander, who passed about a month ago....
+
+...We arrived at Amsterdam on Monday night; here, again, all was new.
+Hitherto we had rode in Carriages of various descriptions _with_ wheels,
+but in Amsterdam you have them without wheels, drawn by a fine horse and
+driven by a man who walks by the side with his long reins....
+
+[Illustration: GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME.]
+
+But what delighted me more than anything else was the prospect of
+suiting Owen and Mary exactly. What think you of a Goat Curricle? Goats
+are regularly trained for draught, and are the prettiest things in the
+world, trotting in neat harness with two or three children. I shall,
+if I have time at Rotterdam, see if I can get a pair. Buonaparte was so
+delighted with them that he ordered 4 for the King of Rome. Amsterdam is
+a very large, gloomy town, intersected in all directions by water,
+monotonous in the extreme. Had I not been convinced by the evidence of
+my senses in looking down from a house top on several objects I had
+visited in different parts of the town, I should have suspected that our
+Laquais de place had amused himself by walking up and down the same
+street where Canals with trees on each side do not keep the houses
+asunder; high buildings and narrow streets of dark, small brown brick
+constitute the character of the town, and, having seen one, you have
+seen the whole. In the course of my walk I heard that two or three
+Englishmen were settled in the town. I called on one, the Revd. Mr.
+Lowe, with little of the Englishman left but the language. He had been
+there 30 years and held a Presbyterian Church. I asked him if Napoleon
+troubled the English settlers during the war. He said that, provided
+they conformed quickly to the laws and regulations, they experienced no
+persecution. Upon my asking if it was at all necessary to conceal his
+extraction, he exclaimed, "What, conceal my extraction, deny my country?
+Not for all the Emperors in the world. No, I have too much conscience
+and independence. To be sure, I was obliged by law to pray for the
+health and prosperity of Buonaparte every Sunday. But what signified
+that? God Almighty understood very well what I meant, and that I
+heartily wished his death all the time." By long residence in Holland,
+he had adopted a good portion of Dutch impenetrability and slowness. He
+assured us nothing short of a week could give us the least chance of
+seeing the curiosities of Amsterdam, and when I told him that we were
+(according to our common custom of early rising) to be in North Holland
+by 6 o'clock in the morning, and had seen all by 11 o'clock which
+occupies a Dutchman's whole day, and gave him a few instances of our
+mode of operation, he threw himself back, raised his cocked hat to
+examine us more thoroughly, put his arms akimbo and exclaimed, "How do
+you support human nature. It must expire under such fatigue," and I
+found it quite impossible to convince him that my health for the last
+month had been infinitely better than usual. But, after all, I fear you
+will find me growing old. I had a compliment paid to my grey hairs, in
+coming from Utrecht, which must be mentioned. The fat Alchymist, above
+mentioned, squeezed himself into Edward's place in the Diligence; on
+remonstrating to a young Dutch gentleman who spoke French, he replied,
+"Que c'�tait vraiment impoli mais que c'�tait un viellard � qui on
+devait c�der quelque chose, et je vous assure, Monsieur, comme vous �tes
+aussi un peu ag� si vous aviez pris ma place je vous l'aurais c�d�." In
+Amsterdam there is little to be seen but the Palais, in which there is a
+splendid collection of Flemish pictures--two or three of the finest of
+Rembrandt--and without exception the most splendid room I have seen in
+Europe. It is the great Hall of audience; King Louis[92] has fitted up
+everything in grand style. We went over what the Dutchmen cry up as an
+object which it would be unpardonable not to see--the Felix meritus, a
+sort of Lecture room with some wretched museums attached. I found
+nothing to interest me but a capital figure of a Dutchman, who came also
+to see the wonders. Nothing could exceed his attitudes as he looked with
+an eye of incredulity whilst they explained a planetarium, examined with
+an air of conscious safety a snake corked up in a bottle, and ogled with
+terror a skeleton which grinned at him out of his case. I walked round
+and tried his perspective in all directions, and rather blushed when,
+with treacherous condescension, I requested him to use my Glass that I
+might see how he looked peeping thro' a Telescope. This is such a Museum
+as will furnish me with samples of oddities for the rest of my life.
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+_August_ 6, 1814.
+
+Luckily we have a commodious cabin in the _Trechschuyt_, and no smoke or
+other intruders, so where I finished my last I will begin another.
+
+[Illustration: TABLE D'HOTE, AMSTERDAM.
+
+_To face page 226._]
+
+As to the country, a peep once an hour will be sufficient; I will look
+out of the window and give you the result--five plover, a few fat cows,
+a good many rushes, and a canal bridge. At Amsterdam we dined at a
+regular Dutch table d'h�te; about 20 people, all of them eaters, few
+talkers; the quantity of vegetables consumed was quite surprising. With
+the last dish a boy came round with pipes and hot coals, which were soon
+followed by a tremendous explosion of Tobacco from a double line of
+smokers, and as if the simple operation of puffing in and puffing out
+was too much for these drowsy operators, many of them leaned back in
+their chairs, put their hands in their breeches pockets, shut their
+eyes, and carried on the war with one end of the pipe in their mouths
+and the other leaning on their plates. On Wednesday, Aug. 3rd, we
+crossed the Gulf by sun rise on a little tour into North Holland, to see
+the Village of Brock and Saardam, where the house in which the Czar
+Peter worked still exists. We landed at Buiksloot, from whence carriages
+are hired to different parts of the country. From Breda to Amsterdam
+they varied the Diligences according to the number of travellers;
+sometimes we had a coach and four, and then a machine and three, and as
+our number diminished we were forwarded the last stage or two in a
+vehicle perfectly nondescript with two horses; it was a sort of cart
+painted white, hung upon springs, with an awning, but it was reserved
+for this morning to see us in a carriage far beyond anything before seen
+or heard of. I am inclined to think it must have been the identical
+equipage (for it was a little the worse for wear) which the fairy
+produced from the gourd for the service of Cinderella--a sort of Phaeton
+lined with red flowered velvet, the whole moulding beautifully carved
+and gilt, the panels well painted with flowers, birds, urns, &c., the
+wheels red and gold. It contained two seats for four persons, and a
+coach box painted, carved, and gilt like the body of the carriage; the
+whole was in a Lilliput style drawn by two gigantic black horses, whose
+tails reached above the level of our heads. It was exactly suited to the
+place where we were going, the village of Brock, which, like our
+vehicle, was unlike anything I had seen before. I have, in former
+letters, talked of Dutch cleanliness and neatness, but what is all I
+have said compared with Brock? Even the people have their jokes upon its
+superiority in this particular, and assert that the inhabitants actually
+wash and scrub their wood before they put it on the fire. Lady Penrhyn's
+cottages must yield the palm, they are only internally washed and
+painted, but in Brock, Tops and bottoms, Outside and in, bricks and all,
+are constantly under the discipline of the paint brush, and as if Nature
+was not sufficiently clean in her operations, the stems of several of
+their trees were white washed too! In fact, nothing seemed to
+escape--the Milk pails were either burnished brass or painted buckets,
+and the little straw baskets the women carried in their hands came in
+for their share of blue, red, or green. They have such a dread of dirt,
+that entrance is limited to the back door only, the opening of the
+front door being reserved for grand occasions, such as weddings,
+funerals, &c. It is not accessible by carriages and horses, on account
+of several canals which intersect it; these sometimes widen, and in one
+part the houses stand round a pretty little lake. I can give you no
+better idea of the scene than a Chinese paper, whose neat summer houses
+and painted boats are all mixed together. Most houses have each a
+separate garden, kept in style equally clean. I really believe my own
+dusty shoes were the most impure things in the whole village.
+
+We returned to Buiksloot and then proceeded to Saardam, on the top of a
+Dyke, which keeps the sea from inundating the vast levels of North
+Holland. Saardam might be held up as the pattern of neatness had I not
+visited Brock first; as it is, I can only say that, though four times as
+large, it seems to be its rival in cleanliness and paint. The number of
+windmills is quite astonishing; it would require an army of Don
+Quixotes. I counted myself upwards of 130 in and close to the town; they
+say there are 1,200. Windmills seem great favourites with the Dutch. In
+the Diligence near Utrecht my neighbour roused me by a sudden
+exclamation, "Oh la vue superbe!" I looked, and beheld 14 of them in a
+Dyke! and yesterday, on asking the Laquais de place if we should see
+anything curious at Saardam besides the Czar's house, he replied, "Oh
+que, oui--beaucoup de Moulins!" Peter the Great's house is a small
+wooden cottage close to the town, remarkable for nothing but having been
+his.
+
+[Illustration: SAARDAM.
+
+_To face page 228._]
+
+Alexander had put up two little marble Tablets over the fireplace,
+commemorating his visit to the Imperial residence, on which something
+good and pointed might have been inscribed; as they are, it is merely
+stated that Alexander placed them on, and that Mrs. Von Tets Von Groudam
+stood by, delighted to see him so employed. We returned to Amsterdam by
+3 o'clock and left it at 4 for Haarlem. In Protestant countries
+Cathedrals are not always open; we found that at Haarlem open and a
+numerous congregation listening to a very respectable, venerable-looking
+preacher, whose voice and manner, style and action approached
+perfection. His eloquence, however, seemed to be in vain, for I observed
+many sleepers; and what had an odd effect, though customary in their
+country, the men with their hats on; they take them off, I believe,
+during prayers, but put them down during the sermon; we ascended the
+tower and enjoyed as extensive a view as heart could wish. The sea of
+Haarlem is an immense lake separated from the Gulf by a flood gate and
+narrow dam. The French had a block house and batteries here. In truth,
+Holland does not require above 20 guns to keep out all the enemies in
+the world. Different, indeed, are the Dutch from the French in the
+facility and liberality of access to their curiosities. It required some
+eloquence and more money to induce the key-keeper to let us go up; and
+on asking whether the Organ was to play, he assured us it was not, but
+that if we wished it, the performer would sound the notes for 16
+_shillings_; this was a gross imposition to which we were little
+inclined to submit; but luckily, as we were coming down, we heard it
+opening its great bellows and re-echoing through the body of the church.
+We almost broke our necks in running downstairs, and leaving the Dutch
+guide to take care of himself, we found our way into the Organ loft, to
+the visible annoyance of the performer, who, seeing we were strangers,
+thought himself sure of his eight florins, but his duty and the Church
+service compelled him to go on, and he shook his head and growled in
+vain at our guide, who at this time appeared, intimating that he should
+take us away, as having no business there, but in vain. I heard the
+Organ, counted the 68 stops, examined at my leisure the stupendous
+instrument, while he was under the necessity of continuing his
+involuntary voluntary, till my curiosity was satisfied. We took up our
+residence at an Hotel _in the Wood_, so-called from being the place of
+promenade and site of the new palace, but _ci-devant_ residence of Mrs.
+Hope, and, in fact, from being also a respectable wood of tolerably
+sized trees.
+
+[Illustration: PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM.
+
+_To face p. 230._]
+
+By the best chance in the world here, too, we fell in with a f�te on the
+river. Some great Burgomaster had married himself, and all the world of
+Haarlem came forth in boats, decorated with colors, and bands of music
+in procession up the river to pass in review before the Princess of
+Orange, an elderly-looking woman. She sat in the window of a summer
+house overlooking the river, and the festive procession assembled before
+her. It was a lovely evening, and nothing could be more gay and
+animating than the scene. We this morning at 6 quitted Haarlem in the
+boat in which I am now writing as comfortably as in my own room, the
+motion scarcely perceptible, about 5 miles an hour; by good luck few
+passengers, and those above looking at a man who is at this incessant
+Dutch employment of painting. The boat is as clean as a china dish, but
+possibly it may not have been painted since last week. Edward has just
+daubed his hand by looking out of the window. I am rather puzzled in
+getting on here. Very little French is spoken; among the common people
+none, and we converse by signs.
+
+...Their money, too, is puzzling beyond measure. My stock consists of 5
+franc pieces (French), upon which, exclusive of their not always
+understanding what they are, there is a discount; this, of course, adds
+to the confusion, and now I despair of understanding the infinite
+variety of square, hexagon, round coins of copper and silver and base
+metal which pass through my hands.
+
+We passed two hours at Leyden as actively employed as a Foxhunter. We
+found a man who spoke French, told him our wishes, gave him a list of
+what was to be seen in the town, and then desired him to start,
+following him on the full trot up and down churches, colleges,
+Townhalls, &c. These towns are so much alike, that having seen one the
+interest is considerably lessened. Leyden, however, has the honour of
+possessing one of the finest streets in Holland; though capable of
+accommodating 65,000 souls, there are not more than 20,000, which gives
+it a melancholy appearance. In one part there is an area of about 3 or 4
+Cheshire acres planted with trees and divided with walls, which in 1807
+was covered, like the rest of the town, with good houses, but it
+happened that a barge full of gunpowder passing through the canal, blew
+up, killed 200 people, including a very clever Professor Lugai, and
+destroyed all the houses. It was a sad catastrophe, to be sure; but now,
+as it is all over, and all the good people's mourning laid aside, I
+think the Town may be congratulated as a gainer. I could fill up my
+letter with the anatomical preparations of the celebrated Albinus; but
+though I am very partial to these sights, I doubt whether you would be
+amused by a description of dried men, with their hearts, lungs, and
+brains suspended in different bottles. The town is full of booksellers'
+shops, in which capital Classics might be procured and divers others old
+books. The windows were also well filled with new works translated into
+Dutch; few, I think, original; amongst others, I saw "Ida of
+Athens!"[93] ...
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH FISHERMEN.]
+
+It is not easy to trace the sieges of Philip 2nd in these towns, as the
+fortifications are most of them extinct, fortresses of more modern
+construction being now the keys of the country. Neat villas and gardens
+by the canal side marked our approach to the seat of government--and a
+very first-rate Town the Hague is, though I cannot conceive how the
+people escape agues and colds in Autumn. Stagnant canals and pools, with
+all circulation of air checked by rows of trees, cannot be healthy.
+Unfortunately for us, Lord Clancarty is at Bruxelles with the Prince of
+Orange. The Hague appears, from what I have seen, to be a better town
+for permanent residence than Bruxelles or Antwerp. The houses are all
+good, which implies a superior quality of inhabitants. In the evening we
+took a drive to Scheveningen, a fishing village about 2 or 3 miles
+distant, through a delightful avenue. It is one of the fashionable
+resorts of the town, and is absolute perfection on a hot day, though
+pregnant with damp and dew in the evening. I told you of dog carts at
+Bruxelles, but here seems to be the region of despotic sway of the poor
+beasts. I believe that I am not wrong in stating that nearly all the
+fish is carried by them from Scheveningen to the Hague; and the weight
+they draw is surprising. We passed many canine equipages; in one sat a
+fisherman and his wife drawn by three dogs not much bigger than
+Pompey--he with his pipe in his mouth, she with an enormous Umbrella
+Hat, as grave as Pluto and Proserpine. I saw several nice goat gigs;
+moreover, I am determined to have one for Owen....
+
+...It is quite extraordinary with what excessive silence and gravity
+these people carry on their affairs. On returning from Scheveningen at a
+good round trot, we came in contact with another carriage. Luckily no
+other accident happened than breaking their traces and grinding their
+wheels. But though disabled by our driver, not a syllable of complaint
+or commiseration was uttered by one party or the other. Our driver
+proceeded, leaving them to take care of themselves. I observed, too,
+that in manoeuvering the Vessel in passing the Gulf yesterday, where some
+tacks were necessary, all was performed in perfect silence; no
+halloo-ing--a nod or a puff was alone sufficient....
+
+And so are we coming to the close of our Tour--our next stage will be
+Rotterdam, from whence I shall bear my own dispatches.... In the course
+of my life this last month will bear a conspicuous place from the
+interesting and delightful scenes it has afforded me. I must confess I
+left England with some waverings and misgivings; the accounts of others
+led me to expect that disappointments, difficulties, and great expense
+would be the inevitable accompaniments of my course. But in no instance
+have I been disappointed, the difficulties too trifling to deserve the
+name, the expense nothing compared with the profits derived, and I have
+seen enough of men and manners, of things animate and inanimate, to make
+me quite at home in some of the great scenes which have just been
+performed....
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH CARRIAGE.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE WATERLOO YEAR
+
+Lord Sheffield's forebodings--Talleyrand and the Senate--Vagabond
+Royalty--Mr. North and Napoleon--The rout of the Bourbon
+Government.
+
+
+1814-1816.
+
+The two years which intervened between Edward Stanley's second and third
+visits to France saw the Empire regained and lost by Napoleon, and the
+French Crown lost and regained by Louis XVIII.
+
+In spite of the rose-coloured description of the comforts and pleasures
+of his journey with which the correspondence of 1814 closes, neither the
+Rector nor his brother found it possible to travel on the Continent in
+1815, which Lady Maria had foretold would be "a much more favourable
+time."
+
+Such hopes must soon have been dashed by the proceedings of the Congress
+of Vienna, which, as was said, "danse mais n'avance pas," and gloomy
+forebodings are shewn in two letters from Lord Sheffield to his
+son-in-law, which were received at Alderley in the autumn of 1814 and
+the spring of 1815.
+
+The first gives Lord Sheffield's view of the situation, and the second
+describes Napoleon's own remarks upon it to Lord Sheffield's nephew, Mr.
+Frederick Douglas.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley_.
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _October 30, 1814_.
+
+It is time I should provoke some symptom of your existence. I have no
+letters from Frederick North,[94] but I can acquaint you that we had
+himself here, which is still better, and that he has been infinitely
+entertaining, after three or four months' tour on the Continent, from
+whence he arrived about three weeks ago, and where he proposes to return
+next week, to pass the winter at Nice with the Glenbervies and Lady
+Charlotte Lindsay, who are gone there, and, I might add, with many other
+English families. I begin to think I shall have more acquaintances on
+the Continent than in England; the migration there is beyond
+calculation.
+
+The present is an anxious period. Perhaps there isn't in the History of
+the world a more complete instance of political imbecility than was
+exhibited in the late Peace at Paris, especially in the Allies not
+availing themselves of the very extraordinary opportunity of securing
+the tranquillity of Europe for a long time.
+
+I conceive that the most selfish ambition will not have been more
+hurtful than liberality run mad. And as I am not without apprehension of
+that fanaticism, which for some time has interfered even with
+Parliament, and to which there has been too much concession, I incline
+to the opinion that enthusiasm, as fanaticism, is generally more hurtful
+to society than scepticism. The fanatic measures are evidently
+systematic and combined.
+
+Everybody now looks eagerly towards the Congress of Vienna. Talleyrand
+displays the cloven foot, by refusing to recognise the junction of all
+the Netherlands. However, the Bourbons, France, and all Europe may be
+thankful to Talleyrand.
+
+You have often heard of Barth�lemy.[95] His brother, a banker at Paris,
+first moved in the Senate the d�ch�ance of the Buonaparte family.
+Alexander was treating respecting a Regency. The King of Prussia did not
+attempt to take a lead, but was well disposed to put down the dynasty.
+The Emperor of Austria had always declared that he would treat with
+Buonaparte for Peace, under restrictions, still co-operating with the
+Allies.
+
+While matters were in this state Talleyrand took the opportunity of
+sending a message to the Senate, saying that the family was deposed, and
+by this step decided the business.
+
+Buonaparte never showed a disposition to treat and to agree to terms;
+but when he had seemingly agreed, he denied or broke off the next day.
+The failure or desertion of the Marshals completed his overthrow.
+
+It is surprising that he did not attempt to join Augereau's Army,[96]
+and retire into Italy, where he had forty thousand very good troops. At
+all events we must rest upon the pinnacle of glory and honour, although
+we have not secured a permanency of them. By premature concession we
+have yielded the means of securing the advantages we had gained.
+
+The affair at Lake Champlain[97] has been most unlucky, as it will
+encourage the Yankies, under the present inveterate and execrable
+Government, to persevere in a ruinous warfare--ruinous to the American
+States, and galling to this country, liable to be distracted by the
+efforts of an interested and mischievous faction, which, through lack of
+firmness in Government, often paralyses measures of the utmost
+consequence.
+
+I have seen several letters from Madrid, and I have one from thence now
+before me of the 3rd inst.
+
+A degree of infatuation prevails there which you could hardly conceive
+possible. The account comes from a very respectable and rational
+quarter. The most respectable characters are most violently persecuted,
+and the persons arraigned are confined in dungeons, no communication
+permitted; and persons convicted of the most atrocious acts are not even
+in disgrace.
+
+While officers and soldiers invalided by wounds are starving, the
+King[98] is profuse to persons of no merit, and has given a pension of
+1,000 dollars to a young lady who sang before him, &c., &c.
+
+The Spanish Funds, which on the King's arrival were at 85, are now at
+50. The Revenue is less than 20 millions of Dollars, the expenditure
+nearly 50.
+
+Spain is likely to be in as bad a state as ever, excepting the presence
+of a French Army; consequently I conceive their Transatlantic Dominions
+will be lost to them.
+
+Nothing, however, could be more favourable to our Commerce than their
+emancipation. Such an event, and a proper Boundary between us and the
+American States, would be the most favourable result of the war to this
+country.
+
+There is an uncommonly good Pamphlet published on this subject entitled
+"A completed View of the points to be discussed in treating with the
+American States." I cannot do less than admire it, because it seems
+taken from my shop, or at least it adopts all the principles, with a
+considerable amelioration, by taking the Line of Mountains into the
+Lakes, and all the Lakes within our Boundary.
+
+I am very much entertained with an Anecdote in a letter of the 8th inst.
+now before me, from Switzerland, which states that the Princess of Wales
+dined a few days before with the Empress Maria Louisa and the
+Archduchess Constantine,[99] at Berne, and after dinner the Empress and
+Princess sang Duets, and the Archduchess accompanied them. Two years ago
+nobody would have believed such an event possible.
+
+All this vagabond Royalty is found extremely troublesome by travellers,
+filling up all the beds, and carrying away all the horses. The above
+dinner party reminds me of Candide meeting at the Table d'H�te during
+the Carnival at Venice, with two ex-emperors, and a few ex-kings.
+
+The Princess of Wales could not be prevailed on to remain more than ten
+days at Brunswick. She left Lady Charlotte Lindsay[100] and Serinyer
+behind her, and proceeded with Lady Elizabeth Forbes to Strasburg, where
+she found Talma, the renowned Actor, and halted there ten days.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley._
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _February 1, 1815_.
+
+We are much entertained with Fred Douglas's[101] account of his visit of
+four days to the Isle of Elba.
+
+On the third evening he had an interview with Buonaparte for an hour and
+a half--the conversation very curious. He says that Buonaparte is not at
+all like any of his Prints; that he is a stout, thick-set figure, which
+makes him look short; his features rather coarse and his eyes very
+light, and particularly dull; but his mouth, when he smiles, is full of
+a very sweet, good-humoured expression; that at first he strikes you as
+being a very common-looking man, but upon observing him and conversing
+with him, you perceive that his countenance is full of deep thought and
+decision.
+
+He says he received him with much good humour, and talked to him of the
+English Constitution, with which he seemed well acquainted; said that
+France never could have the same, because it wanted one of the principal
+parts of it, "Les Nobles de Campagne." He talked also much about our
+church Laws, of which he appeared to be well informed, but said he heard
+there was much ill humour in Scotland on account of the _Union_!
+Frederick thought he meant Ireland, but found he really did mean
+Scotland, and had no idea that the Union had taken place above a hundred
+years ago.
+
+He said he did not think the Peace would last; that the French Nation
+would never submit long to give up Belgium, and that he would have
+yielded all except that; that he would have given up the Slave Trade, as
+it was a Brigandage of very little use to France. He had a most
+extraordinary idea of how it should be abolished, viz., he said he
+would allow Polygamy among the Whites in the West Indies, that they
+might inter-marry with the Blacks, and all become Brothers and Sisters.
+He said that he had consulted a Bishop upon this, who had objected to it
+as contrary to the Christian Religion.
+
+He seemed very anxious to know concerning the quarrels of the Regent and
+his wife, upon which subject F., of course, evaded giving him any
+answers. He said, "On dit qu'il aime la M�re de ce Yarmouth--mais vous
+Anglais, vous aimez les vielles Femmes," and he laughed very much. He
+avoided speaking of Maria Louisa, but spoke of Jos�phine with affection,
+saying, "Elle �toit une excellente Femme." He said that the motive of
+his expedition into Russia was, first, that it was necessary to lead the
+French Army somewhere, and then that he wished to establish Poland as an
+independent kingdom; for that he had always loved the Poles, and had
+many obligations to them. He talked of all his battles as you would of a
+show, saying "C'�toit un Spectacle magnifique."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+When Napoleon had fulfilled his own prophecies of the prompt disturbance
+of the Peace of Europe by landing at Cannes, just six days from the date
+of this last letter, Lord Sheffield writes again, after war had been
+declared by the Allies.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley._
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _March 24, 1815_.
+
+I was greatly oppressed by the first intelligence of Napoleon's
+Invasion. I was afterwards re-elevated, and now I am tumbled down again.
+
+To be sure, there never was such an execrable nation as the French. The
+much more respectable Hindoos could not more meekly submit to any
+conqueror that chooses to run through their country at the head of a set
+of miscreant soldiers. The Pretorian band that in the time of Imperial
+Rome used to dispose of Empires is perfectly re-established. Immediate
+notice was sent me from Newhaven of the Duke of Feltre's[102] (Minister
+of War) arrival there, and of poor Louis's flight from Paris.
+
+I immediately set out, with the intention of rendering service to the
+variety of wretches that were pouring in upon our coast, English and
+French, but on my way called at Stanmer, where I found that this famous
+Minister of War was gone forward to London, that the few ship-loads that
+had got over to Newhaven were disposed of, and an embargo having been
+laid on the Ports of France, of course there was nothing more to be done
+on our coast.
+
+I returned home at night, and just as I was going out of Stanmer Park I
+met the Duke of Taranto[103] entering, for whom Lord Chichester had sent
+his carriage. The Duke of Feltre brought the intelligence that the King
+was at Abbeville.
+
+I was considerably annoyed, because it seemed like inclining to England,
+and relinquishing all hopes of France. At Abbeville he certainly might
+turn off to Lisle, where I hope he is gone, and there, if there be any
+loyal Frenchmen, they may flock round his standard.
+
+All accounts, and letters, that I have seen from France agree that the
+country is almost universally against Buonaparte, and it is very clear
+all the Army is for him, and that all the Marshals adhere to Louis,
+except two. If so, and Napoleon has not the aid of his old Generals, he
+may find it difficult to manage the many Armies that he must keep on
+foot to repel the attacks that will be made on him from all sides.
+
+I cannot help thinking he is in a bad situation still. When all the
+Russians, Cossacks, Croats, Hungarians, Austrians, and all Germany
+clatter round him, and our very respectable army from the Netherlands
+advances, if he has nothing but the army in his favour, he will be
+considerably bothered, and I hope the sentimental, silly Alexander will
+never be suffered to interfere with his "beaux sentimens" in favour of
+the monster. If he should be taken and I had the command I should never
+trouble Alexander nor anybody else, but take him by the Drum head,
+giving something like the sort of trial the Duc d'Enghien had and
+immediately extinguish him by exactly the same process, ceremony, &c.,
+as he practised on the Duc d'Enghien.
+
+After all, and the worst of all, is that I apprehend we must pay the
+piper to enable the above-mentioned Hordes to take possession of France,
+and when there I flatter myself they will live upon the country. If we
+do not make some effort of the kind, all the money we have shed may be
+in a great degree thrown away. One great difficulty occurs to me, how
+will it be possible to dispose of the present French Army if it should
+be conquered, and how raise a French Army to maintain Louis's dominion?
+
+If Napoleon should be utterly extinguished, it may be possible to do
+something, but if he escapes (yet I know not where he can go) a large
+foreign Army must remain a long time in France.
+
+I must conclude by observing what a very extraordinary, strange creature
+a Frenchman is! Instead of attending the King, or suppressing Navy
+Dep�ts where there are only fifty loyal men, the Minister of War flies
+to England, and, as he represented, in order to join the King in
+Flanders. At Paris he was certainly nearer Flanders than he was at
+Dieppe....
+
+Yours ever,
+
+SHEFFIELD.
+
+The Victory of Waterloo ended all fears of a fresh Imperial Despotism,
+and also all the hopes of those who, like Lord Sheffield and the Stanley
+family, were no great admirers of the Bourbon Dynasty.
+
+Edward Stanley's desire to revisit France was now coupled with a wish to
+realise the scene of the late Campaign, and he planned his journey so as
+to arrive there on the first anniversary of the battle, June 18, 1816.
+
+He was accompanied by Mrs. Stanley, by his brother-in-law, Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn,[104] who had travelled with him in 1814, and by their
+mutual friend, Donald Crawford.
+
+Mrs. Stanley's bright and graphic letters contribute to the story of
+their adventures, and are added to make it complete.
+
+[Illustration: _Corn Mills at Vernon, July 11 1816._
+
+_To face p. 247._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+AFTER WATERLOO
+
+A long Channel passage--Bruges--The battlefield--A posting
+journey--Compi�gne--Paris--Michael Bruce.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+_Spring, 1816._
+
+...Edward has long talked of a week at Waterloo, and all the rest of the
+plan came tumbling after one day in talking it over with Edward
+Leycester, as naturally as possible, and I expect almost as much
+pleasure in seeing Cambridge and being introduced to the looks and
+manners at least of E. L.'s friends, and in seeing him there as in
+anything else. We are to pay a visit to Sir George and Lady Scovell at
+Cambray, and perhaps to Sheffield Place, on our return....
+
+
+ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE,
+_June, 1816_.
+
+I am very glad to have this opportunity of seeing what a college life
+is, as well as seeing Cambridge itself and its contents animate and
+inanimate. I like both very much.
+
+We had a very pleasant journey. The road is not only prettier by
+Ashbourne and Derby, but better, and, provided your nerves can stand
+cantering down hill sometimes, you get on faster than on the other road.
+We drank tea at Nottingham on Monday and went up to the Castle.
+
+We arrived at Cambridge by 6 o'clock on Tuesday evening, and found
+Edward deep in his studies....
+
+This morning we breakfasted with George,[105] and, after seeing
+libraries and people and buildings till I am tired, here I am, snug and
+comfortable, in Edward's room....
+
+We are off to-morrow for London.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Josepha Stanley._
+
+BLENHEIM HOTEL, LONDON,
+_Saturday_.
+
+As we were coming yesterday Edward looked at the wind and decided that
+if Donald was not in the Thames then, he would have no chance of being
+here this week. We had not been here an hour when in he walked in high
+feather and gave me more reasons than I can remember for leaving his
+sisters and going with us....
+
+I have been to Waterloo[106] and in Buonaparte's carriage. He has given
+an alarm by writing to France in spite of all their precautions.... We
+have got our passports and arranged our going. Edward came back from the
+city with three plans--the steamboat, the packet, or a coach to
+ourselves to Ramsgate. We debated the three some time, at last, on the
+strength of hearing that the steamboat had been out two nights on its
+passage once, we decided on the coach, and the places were just secured
+when Mr. Foljambe came in and told us he was going to Ramsgate on
+Tuesday with some other friends of Edward's, and that it was the nicest
+vessel ever seen and more punctual than any coach, which made us all
+very angry as you may guess.... We set out to-morrow morning and get
+into the packet at Ramsgate at 7 in the evening. Let me find a nice
+folio at Paris, care of Perrigaux, Banquier, and I shall not feel your
+handwriting the least interesting thing I have to see there.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Louisa Dorothea Stanley._
+
+RAMSGATE, _June 11th_.
+
+Rapidly went the coach from Canterbury, 17 miles in an hour and a half.
+Fair blows the wind over the azure blue billow. "You will breakfast at
+Ostend," says the Captain, "to-morrow." "Oh, that Louisa were here!"
+says Donald. "She would die of delight," says Uncle, "and does not Uncle
+say true?" Conceive the view from Nottingham Castle on the evening we
+left Alderley ... a noble precipice, frowning over a magnificent plain,
+from the terraces of which we beheld immediately at our feet almost
+numberless--for I counted in a second 54--little pets of gardens, each
+adorned with a love of a summerhouse to suit; in the corners of the
+rocks many excavations and caverns fancifully cut out and carved, into
+which each of the proprietors of the above-mentioned gardens might at
+leisure retire and become his own hermit. Then how shall I touch upon
+the delights of Cambridge? How shall I speak of Edward's beauty in his
+cap, all covered with little bows, and a smart black gown? And how shall
+I speak of his dinner and his party? Such merriment! Such hospitality!
+Only think, Louisa, of dining, breakfasting and supping day after day
+with 14 or 15 most accomplished, beautiful, and entertaining young
+gentlemen! But no more, lest you expire at the thought! As for London, I
+cannot well tell you what I did or saw, such a confused multiplicity of
+sights and succession of business have seldom been experienced. At 6
+this morning we started in the stage coach, the interior of which we
+took, excluding all intruders, and from hence at 3 o'clock on a lovely
+night, with an elegant moon, we embarked for Ostend.
+
+
+(_Continued by Mrs. Stanley._)
+
+I have persuaded Uncle to carry his letter over the water that you may
+not have the anxiety of thinking for 2 days about the passage, which a
+gentleman who dined with us to-day informed us was the most precarious,
+dangerous, and uncertain known.
+
+But I consoled myself with not believing the gentleman in the first
+place, and by thinking with Aunt Clinton that as Mrs. Carleton was
+drowned so lately at Ostend, it is not likely another accident should
+happen at present.
+
+Here we are, waiting for the awful moment of embarkation, which I
+consider something like having a tooth out, but I live in hopes that,
+having been up early this morning and had 10 hours' jumbling, I may be
+sleepy enough to forget that I am on a shelf instead of a bed; so I have
+been just to admire the moon as we sail out of harbour, and then go to
+bed and find myself in sight of Ostend when I awake.
+
+
+(_E. Stanley resumes next day._)
+
+A dead calm succeeded to a gentle breeze, and on the soft, sleepy
+billows we have reposed in the Downs, rolling ever since. To comfort us
+we have a beautiful Packet and a limited number of passengers.
+
+The discomfort consists in a rapid diminution of all our provisions and
+the consequent prospect of no Tea, supper, or breakfast, or dinner
+to-morrow. One sailor said to another as he was skinning some miserable
+fish, "Aye, aye, they" (meaning the passengers) "will be glad enough of
+these in a day or two, and I was eleven days becalmed last year."
+
+Kitty, to fill up an hour of vacuity, said she would draw, and to fill
+up my time this testifies that I have been thinking of you and wishing
+for your presence, for the Novelty alone would keep you in full
+effervesence and banish all Tediosity.
+
+I have, moreover, been playing with a sweet little French dog brought by
+one of the sailors from Boulogne. The sailors have daily given him two
+glasses of gin to check his growth, and a marvellous dog of Lilliput he
+is! Pray, my dear Lou, drink no gin, for you see the consequences.
+
+I had retired to bed, when Edward Leycester called me up to admire a
+beautiful display of Neptune's fireworks; wherever the surface of the
+waves was agitated, the circles of silver flashed and the drops were
+scattered far and wide.
+
+The morning dawned upon us nearly in the same position, not a breath
+troubled the surface, smooth and still as Radnor Mere on the sweetest
+evening.
+
+Famine began to stare us in the face; our provisions were nearly
+exhausted; two or more days might elapse before we reached Ostend.
+
+We breakfasted on tea, fried skate and cheese. Breakfast at an end, it
+was proposed to board the nearest vessel and beg or borrow a dinner. In
+the tide course appeared a sail, about five miles distant.
+
+The boat was lowered, volunteers stepped forward--Uncle, Edward, Donald,
+and a gentleman-like Belgian.
+
+Away we went and by hard rowing we came alongside the strange sail in an
+hour. Three leaden figures, motionless as the unwieldly bark they
+manned, gazed curiously upon our approaching boat. Our Belgian friend
+hailed, but hailed in vain. They looked but spoke not. Again he spoke,
+and at length a monotonous "yaw" proclaimed that they were not dumb.
+
+We went on board and found a perfect Dutch family on their way from
+Antwerp to Rouen. Out stepped from her cabin the Captain's wife in
+appropriate costume, her close little cap, large gold necklace and
+ear-rings; and behind the Captain's spouse stepped forth two genuine
+descendants of the nautical couple. Large round heads with large round
+(what shall I say?) Hottentots to match and keep up the due balance
+between head and tail.
+
+Having explained our wants to the Captain, he produced as the chief
+restorative an incomparable bottle of Schiedam, _i.e._, gin. To each he
+offered a good large glass, and then in answer to our request for beef,
+four bottles of excellent claret, two square loaves. For this he asked a
+guinea, upon receiving which his features relaxed and he declared we
+should have two more bottles of claret. Upon hearing we had a lady in
+the packet he begged her acceptance of half a neat's tongue, some
+butter, and a bag of rusks. Loaded with them, we took a joyful leave of
+these sombre sailors and returned, with the orange cravat of our Belgian
+friend for a flag, in triumph to the packet.
+
+But a truce to my pen. Ostend is in sight, and now we are all rubbing
+our hands and congratulating each other that wind and tide are in our
+favour and that we shall be in in a couple of hours.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Isabella Stanley._[107]
+
+BRUGES, _June 14, 1816_.
+
+On our return from the Dutch vessel from which we recruited our
+exhausted store, we found our poor Captain in sad tribulation, his
+patience exhausted, but his temper luckily preserved. Having paced his
+deck with a fidgeting velocity a due number of times, peeped thro' his
+glass at every distant sail or cloud to observe whether they were in any
+degree movable, and invoked Boreas in the most pitiable terms such as
+"Oh Borus! Now do, good Borus just give us a blow," we had the
+satisfaction at length, the supreme satisfaction, of perceiving a gentle
+curl upon the water which soon settled into a steady breeze, before
+which we glided away, delightfully enjoying our dinner upon the deck,
+during which our party manifested their respective characters in most
+charming style. One Farmer Dinmont[108] and Dousterswivel, a Dutchman,
+were perfect specimens. A merry Belgian Equerry to the Prince of Orange,
+laughed, joked, and amused us with sleight-of-hand tricks. Our Dutch
+beef, tho' doubtless salt far beyond due proportion, was relished by
+all, Dinmont excepted, who pronounced it, together with the
+dark-coloured bread, unfit for English hogs, and shook his head with a
+most significant expression of doubt at my assertion that I never
+enjoyed a better dinner in my life. At five o'clock the low sand hills
+appeared to view in little nodules upon the horizon, and the Steeple of
+Ostend with its Lighthouse were visible from deck. At 6 we were close in
+upon land, and in half an hour were boarded by a Dutch boat, but alas!
+there was nothing in its appearance to excite curiosity, and with the
+exception of large earrings you might have fancied yourself in Holyhead
+Harbour. Four stout, tall fellows, hard and resolute in feature and
+decided in action, proclaimed their near alliance to British Jack Tars.
+They remained a little while and tried to cheat the passengers as much
+as possible, to take us on shore, but finding us determined to remain
+till the Captain could get his own boat ready, they shrugged their
+shoulders, abused us in Dutch, and sailed away. We were too many for one
+boat, so taking Kitty and the best of our English passengers and honest
+Farmer Dinmont, with all the luggage, we pushed off from the vessel.
+People of all descriptions, pilots, sailors, customs officers, soldiers,
+waiters soliciting customs for their respective turns. Porters regular
+and irregular, the latter consisting of a sort of light Infantry corps
+of ragged boys. All these people, I say, were crowded together on a
+little peninsular jetty against which our boat was shoved, and no sooner
+had the oars ceased to play and our keel cleared the sand than all these
+people set up their pipes in every dialect of every tongue, French and
+English both bad of their sort, Dutch high and low, Flemish and German.
+All burst upon us at one and the same moment, and the Cossack corps of
+ragged porters all stept forward, arm, leg and foot, to claim the honour
+of carrying up (most probably of carrying off) our baggage. By dint of
+words fair and foul, a shove here and a push there, I contrived to get
+Kitty under my arm and superintend, tho' with no small trouble and
+inconceivable watchfulness, the adjustment of our small portmanteaux,
+writing case, &c., in a wheelbarrow, which, from its formidable length
+of handle, bespoke its foreign manufacturer. On we jogged, but jogged
+not long; for before this accumulating procession could disperse we were
+arrested by a whiskered soldier, who in unintelligible terms announced
+himself a searcher of baggage. So to the custom house we went, when each
+trunk was opened and submitted to a slight inspection; the chief
+difficulty consisting in putting myself in 2 places at once--one close
+to the dep�t of our goods in the barrow, the other before the officer
+with the keys. Kitty was wedged in a corner with a writing case and, I
+think, Donald's sword. My English companion was equally on the alert,
+but Farmer Dinmont would have excited all your compassion, or rather
+admiration; for here amidst the din of tongues and arms, unable to move
+hand or foot, he stood with a smile of mingled resignation and wonder;
+at length, the search being concluded to the satisfaction of both
+parties, we re-commenced our course, and in a few minutes Kitty found
+herself in a new world. Women and children unlike any women and children
+you ever saw; close caps with butterfly wings for the former, little
+black skull bonnets for the latter, in shape both alike, much resembling
+those toys which, if placed on their heads, by their superior specific
+gravity and extensive sacrifice of their lower projections instantly
+revolve and settle upon their tails.
+
+"Voici, Messieurs et Madame, entrons dans la Cour Imp�riale," and
+another moment hoisted us within the covered gateway of this Hotel of
+Imperial appellation. Our arrangements for sleeping and eating being
+complete, we sat down on a bench before the door to gaze, but not to be
+gazed upon, for the good people never cast an eye upon us. On retiring
+to tea, good Farmer Dinmont's countenance relaxed as he flung himself
+into a chair; he put his hands upon the table and exclaimed, "Well,
+well, here I am sitting down for the first time out of Old England!" ...
+A cup of tea, or rather a kettle full, for our salt beef had kindled an
+insatiable thirst, put him in good humour again, and, but for a sort of
+sigh or a look or a jerk which proved Old England to be uppermost in his
+thoughts, he appeared quite satisfied. With some trouble Kitty secured
+the fly cap chambermaid and had taken possession of her room; having
+seen her safe, I descended to give orders for a warming-pan, leaving her
+(after having been 2 nights in her clothes) to the luxury of an entire
+change of linen and course of ablutions. On re-crossing the court 10
+minutes afterwards I ran against a waiter running off with a
+warming-pan, glowing with red-hot embers. "Mais donc" said I, "Madame
+wants a warming-pan. Allons, where is the chambermaid to carry it?" "Oh,
+n'importe," replied this flying Mercury; "c'est moi qui fera cela pour
+la dame!" Only guess Kitty's escape! Another moment and he would have
+been in her presence, warming-pan and all. By dint of remonstrating I
+checked his course and prevailed upon the Maid to go herself with vast
+ill humour, innumerable shrugs, and some few "Mon Dieu's" and other
+suitable expressions. Kitty must herself be the interpreter of her own
+feelings in these lands of novelty. I am almost glad you were, none of
+you, here to witness what she will have such pleasure in describing. Our
+morning passed away in strolling over the town. Kitty and I dined at the
+table d'h�te with about 20 people. Farmer Dinmont sent for a bottle of
+the best wine to try it and offered me a glass. I begged to propose a
+toast, "Prosperity to Old England." His features brightened up, he
+grasped the bottle, filled a bumper, and replied, "Aye, aye, with all my
+heart; that Toast I would drink in ditch water." We left Ostend at 3
+o'clock to take passage in the Bruges canal, and I do assure you we all
+felt quite sorry to leave our dear, good, honest John Bull.
+
+At Saas we fell in with a specimen of Lord Wellington's operations.
+There is a formidable battery erected last year by way of guarding
+Ostend from a "coup de main"; it is singular that the English have
+placed a Battery for the defence close to the celebrated sluice gates of
+this canal, which gates were blown up by Sir Evelyn Coote to prevent the
+French from inundating the country, when he invaded it some years
+before.
+
+Behold us seated in a spacious room, for it does not deserve the
+diminutive name of "Cabin," decorated with hangings of green cloth and
+gold border, on board a most commodious barge. Behold us on a lovely
+evening starting from the Quay with full sail and 3 horses, a man
+mounted on one and cracking a great long whip to drive on the other two,
+which trotted away abreast at the rate of 4-1/2 miles an hour. Behold us
+seated on this easy chair of Neptune! our ears deafened and our spirits
+enlivened by a band of music--trumpet, violin, and bass--admirably
+playing Waltzes and other national tunes. When they had amused us on
+deck they went below to another class of auditors. Our fellow traveller,
+Mr. Trueman, followed them, and perceiving him to be English they struck
+up "God save the King." A Frenchman called out "Ba, ba," a very
+expressive mode of communicating disapprobation, but seeing Trueman was
+of a different opinion, he ceased from his "Ba, ba," and stepping
+towards him made him a low bow. About 6 o'clock we arrived at Bruges, or
+rather to the wharf from whence passengers betake themselves and
+portmanteaux to barrows and sledges. As we approached our Band resumed
+their musical exertions. A crowd assembled to welcome our arrival, Gigs,
+coaches (such coaches!!), Horsemen (such Horsemen!!), were parading.
+Such a light with such a rainbow shone upon such an avenue and such
+picturesque gate!! Our baggage filled a car drawn by 3 stout men; and we
+all followed in the rear.... Bruges is a town affording five or six
+volumes of sketches; towers, roofs, gable ends, bridges--all in
+succession called for exclusive admiration. It was decided that we
+should rise at 4, breakfast at 6, and see all that was possible before
+9, when we were to continue our route to Ghent. At 3 o'clock I was
+prepared, but a steady rain forced me reluctantly to bed again, but we
+did breakfast at 6, and did pick up two or three sketches.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+BRUSSELS, _June 18, 1816_.
+
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH CABRIOLET.
+
+_To face p. 260._]
+
+On the 18th of June, how can I begin with any other subject than
+Waterloo?... At 8 this morning we mounted our Cabriolets for Waterloo.
+Donald put on his Waterloo medal for the first time, and a French shirt
+he got in the spoils, and a cravat of an officer who was killed, and I
+wrapped myself in his Waterloo cloak, and we all felt the additional
+sensation which the anniversary of the day produced on everybody. It
+brought the comparison of the past and present day more perfectly home.
+Donald was ready with his recollections every minute of the day, what
+had been his occupation or his feeling. The forest of Soignies is a fine
+approach to the field of battle--dark, damp, and melancholy. If you had
+heard nothing about it, you could hardly help feeling, in passing
+through it, that you would not like to cross it alone. There are no fine
+trees, but the extent and depth of wood gives it all the effect of a
+fine one, and an effect particularly suited to the associations
+connected with it. The road--a narrow pavement in the middle with black
+mud on each side--looks as if it had never felt a ray of sun, and from
+its state to-day gave me a good idea of what it must have been.
+Sometimes the road is raised thro' a deep hollow, and it was not
+possible to look down without shuddering at the idea of the horses and
+carriages and men which had been overturned one upon another; in some
+parts the trees are _� la_ Ralph Leycester, and you see the dark black
+of shade of the distant wood through them; but in other parts it is so
+choked with brushwood and inequalities of ground, that you could not see
+two yards before you, and no gorge was ever so good a cover for foxes as
+this for all evil-disposed persons. At Waterloo we stopped to see the
+Church, or rather the monuments in it, put up by the different regiments
+over their fallen officers. They are all badly designed and executed but
+one Latin one--not half so good as the epitaph on Lord Anglesey's leg
+which the man had buried with the utmost veneration in his garden and
+planted a tree over it; and he shows as a relic almost as precious as a
+Catholic bit of bone or blood, the blood upon a chair in the room when
+the leg was cut off, which he had promised my lord "_de ne jamais
+effacer_".
+
+At Mont St. Jean Donald began to know where he was. Here he found the
+well where he had got some water for his horse; here the green pond he
+had fixed upon as the last resource for his troop; here the cottage
+where he had slept on the 17th; here the breach he had made in the hedge
+for his horses to get into the field to bivouac; here the spot where he
+had fired the first gun; here the hole in which he sat for the surgeon
+to dress his wound. He had never been on the field since the day of the
+battle, and his interest in seeing it again and discovering every spot
+under its altered circumstances was fully as great as ours.
+
+After all that John Scott[109] or Walter Scott or anybody can describe
+or even draw, how much more clear and satisfactory is the conception
+which one single glance over the reality gives you in an instant, than
+any you can form from the best and most elaborate description that can
+be given! To see it in perfection would be to have an officer of every
+regiment to give you an account just of everything he saw and did on the
+particular spot where he was stationed.
+
+Donald scarcely knew as much as Edward did or as the people about of
+what passed anywhere but just at his own station. But at every place it
+was sufficient to ask the inhabitants where they were and what they
+saw, to obtain interesting information.
+
+[Illustration: Hougoumont ... June 18th
+
+_To face p. 263._]
+
+Every plan I have seen makes it much too irregular, rough ground; it is
+all undulating, smooth ups and downs, so gradual that you must look some
+time before you discover all the irregularity there is. Hougoumont[110]
+is the only interesting point, and that by having an air of peace and
+retirement about it most opposite to what took place in it.
+
+It is a respectable, picturesque farmhouse, with pretty trees and sweet
+fields all around it; the ravages are not repaired and many of the trees
+cut down. We left our carriages in the road and walked all over the
+British position, and henceforward I shall have a clearer idea, not only
+of Waterloo, but of what a military position and military plan is like.
+
+At La Belle Alliance we sat upon a bench where Lord Wellington and
+Bl�cher perhaps met, and drank to their healths in Vin de Bordeaux. In
+spite of the corn, there are still bits of leather caps and bullets and
+bones scattered about in the fields, and you are pestered with children
+innumerable with relics of all sorts. We had heard magnificent accounts
+on our road here of all that was to be done on the field, balls, f�tes,
+sham fights, processions, and I do not know what, but they have all
+dwindled to a dinner given here to the Belgian soldiers and a Mass to be
+said for the souls of the dead to-morrow. However, we saw what we
+wished as we wished, and the impression is perhaps clearer than if it
+had been disturbed and mixed with other sights.
+
+And now, being near 12, and I having walked about 8 miles, and been up
+since 6, must go to bed, though I feel neither sleepy nor tired.
+
+
+_To Lucy Stanley._
+
+_June 24, 1816._
+
+...Away with me to Waterloo!
+
+We arrived at Brussels on the evening of the 17th, and at seven o'clock
+started for the scene of action. From Brussels a paved road, with a
+carriage track on each side, passes for nine miles to the village of
+Waterloo.
+
+The Forest (of Soignies) is, without exception, one of the most
+cut-throat-looking spots I ever beheld, ... and for some days after the
+battle deserters and stragglers, chiefly Prussians, took up their abode
+in this appropriate place, and sallying forth, robbed, plundered, and
+often shot those who were unfortunate enough to travel alone or in small
+defenceless parties.
+
+After traversing this gloomy avenue for about four miles, the first
+symptoms of war met our eyes in the shape of a dead horse, whose ribs
+glared like a cheval-de-frise from a tumulus of mud. If the ghosts of
+the dead haunt these sepulchral groves, we must have passed through an
+army of spirits, as our driver, who had visited the scene three days
+after the battle, described the last four miles as a continued pavement
+of men and horses dying and dead.
+
+[Illustration: Interior of Hugomont June 18, 1816.
+
+_To face p. 265._]
+
+At length a dome appears at the termination of the avenue. It is the
+church of Waterloo. They were preparing for a mass and procession, and
+the houses were most of them adorned with festoons of flowers or
+branches of trees....
+
+...We turned to the right down the Nivelle road, for it was there
+Donald's gun was placed, and some labourers who were ploughing on the
+spot brought us some iron shot and fragments of shell which they had
+just turned up. The hedges were still tolerably sprinkled with bits of
+cartridge-paper, and remnants of hats, caps, straps, and shoes were
+discernible all over the plains. Hougoumont was a heap of ruins, for it
+had taken fire during the action, and presented a very perfect idea of
+the fracas which had taken place that day year. How different now! A
+large flock of sheep, with their shepherd, were browsing at the gate,
+and the larks were singing over its ruins on one of the sweetest days we
+could have chosen for the visit. As I was taking a sketch in a quiet
+corner I heard a vociferation so loud, so vehement, and so varied, that
+I really thought two or three people were quarrelling close to me. In a
+moment the vociferator (for it was but one) appeared at my elbow with an
+explosion of French oaths and gesticulations equal to any discharge of
+grape-shot on the day of attack. "Comment, Monsieur," said I, "What is
+the matter?" "Oh, les coquins! les sacr�s coquins" and away he went,
+abusing the coquins in so ambiguous a style that I doubted whether his
+wrath was venting against Napoleon or against his opponents. "Oui,"
+remarked I, "ils sont coquins; et Buonaparte, que pensez-vous de lui?"
+This was a sort of opening which I trusted would bring him to the point
+without a previous committal of myself. It certainly did bring him to
+the point, for he gave a bounce and a jump and his tongue came out, and
+his mouth foamed, and his eyes rolled, as with a jerk he ejaculated,
+"Napoleon! qu'est-ce que je pense de lui?" It was well for poor Napoleon
+that he was quiet and comfortable in St. Helena, for had he been at
+Hougoumont, I am perfectly convinced that my communicant would have sent
+him to moulder with his brethren in arms. Having vented his rage, I
+asked him if the French had ever got within the walls. "Yes," he said,
+"three times; but they were always repulsed"; he assured me he had been
+there during the attack and that he saw them within; but added, "How
+they came in at that door" (pointing to the gate by which we were
+standing and which was drilled with bullets), "or when they came in, or
+how or where they got out I cannot tell you, for what with the noise,
+and the fire, and the smoke, I scarcely knew where I was myself."
+
+[Illustration: LA BELLE ALLIANCE.
+
+_To face p. 267._]
+
+One of the farm servants begged me to observe the chapel, which he
+hinted had been indebted to a miracle for its safety, and certainly as a
+good Catholic he had a fair foundation for his belief, as the flames
+had merely burnt about a yard of the floor, having been checked, as he
+conceived, by the presence of the crucifix suspended over the door,
+which had received no other injury than the loss of part of its feet. He
+had remained there till morning, when, seeing the French advance and
+guessing their drift, he contrived to make good his escape, but returned
+the following day. What he then saw you may guess when I tell you that
+at the very door I stood upon a mound composed of earth and ashes upon
+which 800 bodies had been burnt. Every tree bore marks of death, and
+every ditch was one continued grave.
+
+From Hougoumont we walked to La Belle Alliance,[111] crossing the
+neutral ground between the armies; a few days ago a couple of gold
+watches had been found, and I daresay many a similar treasure yet
+remains. At La Belle Alliance, a squalid farm house, we rested to take
+some refreshment. For a few biscuits and a bottle of common wine the
+woman asked us five francs, which being paid, I followed her into the
+house. Not perceiving me at the door, she met her husband, and bursting
+into a loud laugh, with a fly-up of arms and legs (for nothing in this
+country is done without gesticulation), she exclaimed, "Only think! ces
+gens-l� m'ont donn� cinq francs." In this miserable pot-house did the
+possessor find 280 wounded wretches jammed together and weltering in
+blood when he returned on Monday morning. If I proceed to more
+particulars I foresee I should fill folios.
+
+I must carry you at once to La Haye Sainte.[112] It was along a hedge
+that the severest work took place; it made me shudder to think that upon
+a space of fifty square yards 4,000 bodies were found dead. The ditches
+and the field formed one great grave. The earth told in very visible
+terms what occasioned its elasticity; upon forcing a stick down and
+turning up a clod, human bodies in an offensive state of decay
+immediately presented themselves. I found four Belgian peasants
+commenting upon one figure which was scarcely interred, and on walking
+under the outer wall of La Haye Sainte a hole was tenanted by myriads of
+maggots feasting upon a corpse.
+
+Here stands the Wellington tree,[113] peppered with shot and stripped as
+high as a man can jump of its twigs and leaves, for every passenger
+jumps up for a relic. We stood upon the road where Buonaparte (defended
+by high banks) sent on, but _didn't_ lead, 6,000 of his old Imperial
+Guard. They charged along the road up to La Haye Sainte, dwindling as
+they went by the incessant fire of 80 pieces of Artillery, many of them
+within a few yards, till their number did not exceed 300. Then Napoleon
+turned round to Bertrand, lifted his hand, cried out, "C'est tout perdu,
+c'est tout fini," and galloped off with La Corte and Bertrand,[114]
+quitting most probably for ever a field of battle.
+
+A continued sheet of corn or fallowed fields occupy the whole plain. The
+crops are indifferent and the reason assigned is curious. The whole
+being trampled down last year, became the food of mice, which in
+consequence repaired thither from all quarters and increased and
+multiplied to such a degree that the soil is quite infested by them.
+
+Upon the heights where the British squares received the shock of the
+French Cavalry, we found an English officer's cocked hat, much injured
+apparently by a cannon shot, with its oilskin rotting away, and showing
+by its texture, shape, and quality that it had been manufactured by a
+fashionable hatter, and most probably graced the wearer's head in Bond
+Street and St. James's. Wherever we went we were surrounded by boys and
+beggars offering Eagles from Frenchmen's helmets, cockades, pistols,
+swords, cuirasses, and other fragments.
+
+At Brussels they gave the Belgian troops a dinner in a long, shady
+avenue, which was more than they deserved, and in the evening the Town
+was illuminated. In the Newspaper I daresay there will be a splendid
+account of it, but it was a wretched display in the proportion of one
+tallow candle to 50 windows stuck up to glimmer and go out without the
+slightest taste or regularity.
+
+From Brussels we started in a nice open Barouche Landau on Thursday, the
+20th. We again crossed the Field of Waterloo and proceeded towards
+Genappes, a road along which we jogged merrily and peaceably, but which
+had last year on this same day been one continued scene of carnage and
+confusion: Prussians cutting off French heads, arms and legs by
+hundreds; Englishmen in the rear going in chase, cheering the Prussians
+and urging them in pursuit; the French, exhausted with fatigue and
+vexation, making off in all directions with the utmost speed.
+
+At Genappes we changed horses in the very courtyard where Napoleon's
+carriage was taken ... and were shown the spot where the Brunswick
+Hussars cut down the French General as a retaliation for the life of the
+Duke. The Postmaster told us what he could, which was not much; the only
+curious part was that in his narrative he never called the Highland
+Regiments "Les �cossais," but "Les Sans Culottes." The setting sun found
+us all covered with dust, rather tired and very hungry, and driving up,
+with some misgivings from what we had heard and from what we saw, to our
+Inn at Charleroi. "This is an abominable-looking house," said Donald.
+"Oh, jump out before we drive in and ask what we can get to eat." "Well,
+Donald, what success?" we all cried like young birds upon the return of
+the old one to the gaping, craving mouths in their nest. "The Landlady
+says she has nothing at all in the house, but if you will come in thinks
+something may be killed which will suffice for supper." This was a bad
+prospect....
+
+[Illustration: WATERLOO.
+
+_To face p. 270._]
+
+We three went on in quest of better accommodation, and drove first to
+enquire at the Post House. The first question the Postmaster asked was,
+What could induce us to come to a place from which there was no exit? We
+told him we wished to go to Maubeuge. Had you seen his shoulders elevate
+themselves above his ears. "To Maubeuge! Why, it is utterly impossible."
+"Well, then," we said, "to Mons." "Le chemin est �xecrable." "To
+Phillippe ville." "Encore plus mauvais." As a proof of which he told us
+that a government courier had two days before insisted upon being
+forwarded thither, that they had sent him off at 2 in the morning, to
+insure him time before daylight, that at 9 in the morning he was brought
+back, having proceeded with the utmost difficulty 2 leagues, and then
+being deposited in a rut by the fracture of his carriage. After a great
+deal of pro and con it was agreed that with more horses and great
+caution and stock of patience the road to Mons should be attempted, and
+we were directed to "Le Grand Monarque," a good name for these times,
+applicable to Buonaparte or Louis XVIII.
+
+It was worth while to lose our way and encounter these unexpected
+difficulties for the amusement the landlady afforded us. We seemed
+almost at the end of the world. I am sure we felt so, for the people
+were so odd. Dinner she promised, and in half an hour proved by a
+procession of half a dozen capital dishes how wonderfully these people
+understand the art of cookery, in a place which in England would be
+considered upon a par with the "Eagle and Child."[115] We asked her
+about the road in hopes of hearing a more satisfactory account. With a
+nod and a shrug, and an enlargement of the mouth and projection of lip,
+she replied, "Messieurs, je ne voudrais pas �tre un oiseau de mauvais
+augure, mais, pour les chemins il faut avouer qu'ils sont effroyables."
+
+I will venture to say such a "oiseau" as our speaker has never before
+been seen or heard of by any naturalist or ornithologist. Her figure and
+cloak were both inimitable. She gave such a tragi-comic account of her
+sufferings last year, during the time of the retreat, and in 1814 when
+the Russians were there, that while she laughed with one eye and cried
+with the other, we were almost inclined to do the same. She had been
+pillaged by a French officer in a manner which surpassed any idea we
+could have formed of French oppression and barbarity. At one time the
+Cossacks caught her, and on some dispute about a horse, 4 of them took
+her each by an arm and leg and laying her upon her "Ventre" flat as a
+pancake, a fifth cracked his knout (whip) most fearfully over her head,
+and prepared himself to apply the said whip upon our poor landlady. By
+good fortune an officer rescued her from their clutches, but she
+shivered like a jelly when she described her feelings in her awkward
+position, like a boat upon the shore bottom upwards. Then she told us
+how her husband died of fright, or something very near it. Her account
+of him was capital, "Il �toit," said she, "un bon papa du temps pass�,"
+by which perhaps you may imagine she was young and handsome. She was
+very old and as ugly as Hecate.
+
+Well, my sheet is at an end, and my hand quite knocked up. We did get to
+Mons, but the roads were "effroyable." At one moment (luckily we were
+not in it) the carriage stuck in the mud and paused. "Shall I go? or
+shall I not go?" Luckily it preferred the latter, and returned to its
+position on 4 wheels instead of 2.
+
+E. STANLEY.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+And now to return to what pleased me first: Bruges--where I first felt
+myself completely out of England. The buildings were so entirely unlike
+any I have seen before that I could have fancied myself rather walking
+amongst pictures than houses. The winding streets are so interesting
+when you do not know what new sight a new turn will present; especially
+when, as in this case, the new sight was so satisfactory every time.
+Ghent is a much finer town but not near so picturesque; but we were
+fortunate in falling in here with a fine Catholic procession. We went to
+the top of the Cathedral, and as we were coming down the great bell
+tolled and announced the procession had begun. We almost broke our necks
+in our hurry to get a peep, and we did arrive at a loop-hole in time to
+see the whole mass of priests and procession in slow motion down the
+great aisle and to hear their chant. It was very fine indeed, tho' to
+our heretical feelings the interest lies as much in the romantic
+associations connected with all the Roman Catholic ceremonies as in
+anything better. It is not in human nature not to feel more devotion in
+the imposing solemnity of such a church. The "Descents from the Cross"
+were just put up, and with the organ playing and mass going on, and the
+number of female figures with their black scarfs over their heads
+kneeling on chairs in different parts of the Cathedral, we saw them to
+greater advantage than surrounded by French bonnets and other pictures
+in the Louvre. They are quite different to any Rubens I ever saw before;
+the colouring so much deeper and the figures so superior.
+
+But no one should be allowed to enter that Cathedral without the black
+scarf, which makes a young face look pretty and an old one picturesque;
+and there were several common people gazing at the picture with as much
+admiration and adoration painted on their faces as there probably was
+on ours.
+
+[Illustration: _Church of St. Nicholas, Ghent June 16, 1816._
+
+_To face p. 274._]
+
+At Brussels there were more pictures from the Louvre, but the Brutes had
+packed up the Rubens without any covering or precaution whatever, and
+there they are with a hole thro' one, and the other covered with mildew
+and stains from rain and dirt. From Ghent we travelled in two cabriolets
+to Brussels, which were not quite so easy or pleasant as the Canal
+boats; but the accommodations as far as Brussels have been really
+_superbe_. I have longed for the papers or the carpets or the marble
+tables in every room we have been in; and I have learned to consider
+dinner as a matter of great curiosity and importance, and I cannot
+wonder that Englishmen are not proof against the temptations of living
+well and so cheap. Brussels is a nice place; there appear to be so many
+pleasant walks and rides in all directions. The country about is so
+pretty, and the town (with the exception of the steep hill which you
+must ascend to get to the best part of it) very cheerful and agreeable
+looking.... Every place swarms with English; we have met four times as
+many English carriages and travellers as we did on our road to London.
+
+Our weather has been very favourable. We had a cool day for walking
+about at Waterloo, and the next day a delightful bright sunshine to show
+off the Palace of Laeken to advantage. It is the place where Bonaparte
+intended to sleep on the 18th, and he fitted it up. It is three miles
+from Brussels, commanding a view of the whole country and surrounded by
+trees and pleasure-grounds in the English style. After looking at
+buildings and towns so much, it was an agreeable relief to admire shady
+walks and fine trees. We went to the Theatre, which was execrable, but
+at Ghent we were very much amused with some incomparable acting.
+
+We left Brussels yesterday morning in a Barouche and _three_, which is
+to take us to Paris. It holds us four in the inside and John on the box
+as nicely as we could wish and is perfectly easy. We suit each other as
+well in other respects as in the carriage. Donald is an excellent
+_compagnon de voyage_--full of liveliness, good humour, and curiosity,
+enjoying everything in the right way. He and Edward Leycester are my
+beaux, while E.S. does the business; which makes it much pleasanter to
+me than if I had only one gentleman with me. In short, we had not a
+difficulty till yesterday. We came by Waterloo again and picked up
+Lacoite to get what we could from him, and then to Charleroi, being told
+the road by Nivelles was impassable. The road to Charleroi was bad, and
+we did not arrive till 9, having had no eatable but biscuit and wine.
+Donald entered the hotel to enquire what we could have for dinner, and
+returned with the melancholy report that the woman had literally
+nothing, and did not know where any were to be procured, but that she
+would kill a hen and dress it if we liked! We sent Donald and Edward, as
+a forlorn hope, to see if there was another inn, and after a long
+search they found one, whereupon the postillion found out that he had
+no drag-chain and could not properly descend the _montagne._ However,
+after some arguments, and my descent from the carriage, and Donald and
+John walking on each side the wheels with large stones ready to place
+before them in case they were disposed to run too fast, we arrived at
+the Inn at the foot of the Hill, from which issued an old woman who
+might have sat for Gil Blas' or Caleb Williams' old woman. When she
+heard where we were going, she shook her head and said she did not like
+to be _un oiseau de mauvais augure_ but that the only road we could go
+was very nearly impassable. The people and the children in the street
+crowded round the carriage as if they had never seen one before, and, in
+short, we found that we had got into a _cul-de-sac._
+
+[Illustration: PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO.
+
+_To face page 278._]
+
+However, our adventures for the night finished by the old woman giving
+us so good a dinner and so many good stories of herself and the
+Cossacks, that we did not regret having been round, especially now when
+we are safely landed at Valenciennes without either carriage or bones
+broke--over certainly the very worst road I ever saw.
+
+We shall be at Paris on Monday or Tuesday, I think. Adieu.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Rianette Stanley._
+
+...Before leaving Brussels for ever, it is impossible not to speak about
+the dogs. What would you say, what would you think, and how would you
+laugh at some of these wondrous equipages. You meet them in all
+directions carrying every species of load. They were only surpassed by
+one vehicle we met on the road drawn by nine, and as luck would have it,
+just as we passed, the five leaders fell to fighting and ran their
+carriage over some high stones. Then the women within began to scream
+and the driver without began to whip, which caused an inevitable scene
+of bustle and perplexity....
+
+At Quiverain we passed the line of separation between France and Belgium
+and were subjected to a close inspection by the Custom House Officers,
+during which some Bandana handkerchiefs of Edward's were for a time in
+great jeopardy, but they were finally returned and "nous voil�" in "la
+belle France." The change was perceptible in more ways than one. Before
+we had travelled a mile we beheld a proof of this subjugated state in
+the person of a Cossack "en plein costume," with two narrow, horizontal
+eyes placed at the top of his forehead, bespeaking his Tartar origin.
+Upon a log of timber twenty more were sitting smoking. The Russian
+headquarters are at Maubeuge, but the Cossacks are scattered all over
+the frontier villages and are seen everywhere. We fell in with at least
+a hundred. They are very quiet and much liked by the people. The Duke of
+Wellington, when returning to Valenciennes a few days ago from Maubeuge,
+was escorted by a party of these gipsy guards.
+
+On approaching Valenciennes other tokens of conquest appeared. A
+clean-looking inn, with a smart garden in Islington style, presented
+itself, bearing a sign with an English name containing the additional
+intelligence that London Porter and Rum, Gin, and Brandy were all there,
+and to be had.
+
+Over many a window we saw a good John Bull board with "Spirituous
+Liquors Sold Here" inscribed thereon in broad British characters, unlike
+the "Spiritual Lickers" in the miserable letters upon the signboards at
+Ostend. As to Valenciennes, nothing was French but the houses and Inns.
+The visible population were red-coated soldiers, and it was impossible
+not to fancy that our journey was a dream, and that we had in fact
+re-opened our eyes in England.
+
+Of hornworks, demi-lunes, and ravelines I shall speak to your Papa when
+I fight my battle once again in the Armchair at the Park or at
+Winnington; enough for you to know that we all breakfasted with Sir
+Thomas Brisbane, a very superior man and a great astronomer, and tho'
+brave as a lion, seems to prefer looking at la Pleine lune in the
+heavens than the host of demi-lunes with which he is surrounded in his
+present quarters. At Cambray Sir George Scovell[116] had most kindly
+secured us lodgings at Sir Lowry Cole's[117] house, which we had all to
+ourselves, as the General was in England. Where the French people live
+it is not easy to guess, for all the best houses are taken by British
+Officers. They receive a billet which entitles them to certain rooms,
+and generally they induce the possessor to decamp altogether by giving
+him a small rent for the remainder. We found Colonel Egerton, who
+married a Miss Tomkinson, in the garrison. We dined with them and the
+Scovell, and were received with the utmost kindness and attention by
+all. Colonel Prince and Colonel Abercromby (you know both, I believe)
+also dined there two days we remained.
+
+On Sunday there was a Procession. The most curious circumstance was that
+a troop of British cavalry attended to clear the way and do the honours,
+for the National Guard had been disarmed three days before in
+consequence of an order from the Duke of Wellington (nobody knows why).
+They gave up their arms without a murmur; some few, I believe, expressed
+by a "Bah!" and a shrug of the shoulders that it was not quite agreeable
+to their feelings, but "voil� tout." "I say, Jack," said a Grenadier of
+the Guards to his Companion, by whom I was standing as the procession
+came out of the Church, "who is that fellow with a gold coat and
+gridiron?" "Why, that's St. Lawrence," and so it was.
+
+St. Lawrence led the way, followed by a brass St. Andrew as stiff as a
+poker and as much resembling St. Andrew as I conceive; but my companion
+the Grenadier thought differently, for he pronounced him to be a Chef
+d'oeuvre. "Well now, Jack, that's quite natural." ...
+
+I must hurry you on to Compi�gne, merely saying that we traversed a
+country fringed with immense forests in which wolves are born and live
+and die without much interruption, tho' we were told at one of the Inns
+that a peasant had, a day or two before, captured seven juvenile
+individuals of the species and carried them off uneaten by their
+disconsolate parents.
+
+Our chief reason for visiting Compi�gne was that we might see a Palace
+fitted up for Marie Louise by Bonaparte in a style of splendour
+surpassing, in my opinion, any Palace I have seen in France.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+PARIS, _June 28, 1816_.
+
+And here I am--and what shall I tell you first? And how shall I find
+time to tell you anything in the wandering Arab kind of life we are
+leading? It is very new and very amusing and I enjoy it very much, but I
+enjoy still more the thoughts of how much I shall enjoy my own quiet
+home and children again when I get to them.
+
+We arrived on Tuesday evening, and in half an hour I was in the Palais
+Royal in the Caf� de Mille Colonnes, and at night the brilliancy of the
+Lamps and Mirrors, glittering in every direction in every alley,
+displayed this new scene to me in the newest colours; and it was very
+like walking in a new world....
+
+The F�tes for the marriage of the Due de Berri are unfortunately all
+over. Except the entertainments at the Court itself, a French party is a
+thing unheard of, and the only gaieties have been English parties to
+which some few French come when they are invited. The only gentlemen's
+carriages I have seen in the streets are English, and as to French
+gentlemen or ladies, according to the most diligent enquiries by eyes
+and tongue, the race has almost disappeared....
+
+If you admire Buonaparte and despise the Bourbons in Cheshire, what
+would you in Paris? where the regular answer to everything you admire is
+that it was done by Buonaparte--to everything that you object to, that
+it is by order of the Bourbons. In the Library of the H�pital des
+Invalides to-day, collected by order of Buonaparte for the use of the
+soldiers, there was a man pulling down all the books and stamping over
+the N's and eagles on the title-page with blue ink, which, if it did not
+make a plain L, at least blotted out the N; but I should apprehend that
+every one who saw the blot would think more of the vain endeavour of
+Louis to take his place than if the N had been left.
+
+...I have told you nothing about Valenciennes and how we breakfasted
+with two odd characters to come together in one, an Astronomer and a
+Soldier, viz., Sir Thomas Brisbane, who enlivens his quarters wherever
+he goes by erecting an observatory immediately, and studying hard as any
+Cambridge mathematician every hour that he is not on military duty. His
+officers seem to have partaken in some degree of the spirit of their
+General, and to have made use of their position at Valenciennes to make
+themselves perfectly acquainted with all Marlborough's campaign, and
+they appeared to have as much interest in tracing all his sieges and
+breaches and batteries as their General in making his observations on
+the sun and the stars.... The Scovells were delighted to see us at
+Cambray; put us into Sir Lowry Cole's quarters, where we had a house and
+gardens all to ourselves. Lord Wellington had been at Cambray a
+fortnight before, and was all affability, good humour, and gaiety....
+Sir Geo. Scovell gave many interesting details of his coolness,
+quickness, decision, and undaunted spirit.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Bella Stanley._
+
+PARIS, _July 9, 1816_.
+
+It is absolutely necessary that a word or two should be said upon the
+palace at Compi�gne, which was fitted up about seven years ago by
+Napoleon for Marie Louise. Having seen most of his Imperial abodes, I am
+inclined to give the preference, as far as internal decoration extends,
+to Compi�gne. Gold, silver, mirrors, tapestry all hold their court
+here. The bath is a perfect specimen of French luxury and magnificence.
+It fills a recess in a moderately-sized room almost entirely panelled
+with the finest sheets of plate glass; and the ball room is so
+exquisitely beautiful that to see its golden walls and ceilings lighted
+up with splendid chandeliers, and its floors graced with dancers, plumed
+and jewelled, I would take the trouble of attending as your Chaperon
+from Alderley whenever the Bourbons send you an invitation.
+
+The gardens are like all other French pleasure grounds, formal and
+comfortless, but there is one part you would all enjoy. When Buonaparte
+first carried Marie Louise to Compi�gne she expressed much satisfaction,
+but remarked that it was deficient in a Berceau; it could not stand in
+competition with her favourite palace of Sch�nbrunn. Now, a berceau is a
+wide walk covered with trellis work and flowers. She left Compi�gne. In
+six weeks Napoleon begged her to pay another visit. She did so, and
+found a berceau wide enough for two carriages to go abreast and above
+two miles in length, extending from the gardens to the forest of
+Compi�gne, completely finished. May you all be espoused to husbands who
+will execute all your whims and fancies with equal rapidity and good
+taste! In your berceau I will walk; but if you are destined to reside in
+golden palaces, you must expect little of Uncle's company.
+
+Having travelled thus far, attend us to Paris and imagine yourself
+seated in a velvet chair in the Hotel de Bretagne, Rue de Richelieu,
+that is to say, when translated into London terms, conceive yourself
+seated in one of the Hotels in or near Covent Gardens, close to Theatre
+and shops and all that a stranger wishes to be near for a week when the
+sole purpose of his visit is seeing and hearing. We are within 20 yards
+(but if measured by the mud and filth to be traversed in the march I
+should call it a mile) of the Palais Royal, the fairy land of Paris, and
+Paradise of vice, and the centre of attraction to every stranger. Here
+we breakfast in Coffee-houses, of which no idea can be formed by those
+who only associate the name of Coffee-house with certain subdivided,
+gloomy apartments in England, where steaks and _Morning Chronicles_
+reign with divided sway, and where the silence is seldom interrupted but
+by queries as to the price of stocks or "Here, Waiter, another bottle of
+Port."
+
+We dine at Restaurateurs, choosing unknown dishes out of five
+closely-printed columns of _fricandeaus_ and _� la financi�res_.
+
+Before I proceed let me inform you of some simple matters of fact which
+I may forget if delayed. Such as that we found the Sothebys and Murrays,
+and Leghs of High Legh, and Wilbraham of Delamere Lodge. With the former
+we have made several joint excursions and contrived to meet at dinner.
+Mr. Sotheby is in his element, bustles everywhere, looks the vignette of
+happiness, exclaims "Good!" upon all occasions, from the arrangement of
+the Skulls in the Catacombs to the dressing of a _vol au vent_. In
+short, they are all as delighted as myself, and that is saying a good
+deal.
+
+Pardon this digression. Again to the point--to Paris. Where shall I
+begin? Let us take the theatres. We saw Talma last night, and the
+impression is strong, therefore he shall appear first on the list.
+
+The play was "Manlius," a tragedy in many respects like our "Venice
+Preserved." The House was crowded to excess, especially the pit, which,
+as in England, is the focus of criticisms and vent for public opinion.
+
+When a Tragedy is acted no Music whatever is allowed, not a fiddle
+prefaced the performance; but at seven o'clock the curtain slowly rose,
+and amidst the thunder of applause, succeeded by a breathless silence,
+Talma stepped forth in the Roman toga of Manlius. His figure is bad,
+short, and rather clumsy, his countenance deficient in dignity and
+natural expression, but with all these deductions he shines like a
+meteor when compared with Kemble. He is body and soul, finger and thumb,
+head and foot, involved in his character; and so, say you, is Miss
+O'Neil, but Talma and Miss O'Neil are different and distant as the
+poles. She is nature, he is art, but it is the perfection of art, and so
+splendid a specimen well deserves the approbation he so profusely
+receives.
+
+The curtain is not let down between the acts, and the interval does not
+exceed two or three minutes, so that your attention is never
+interrupted. The scene closed as it commenced--with that peculiar hurra
+of the French, expressive of their highest excitement. It is the same
+with which they make their charge in battle, and proportioned to numbers
+it could not have been more vehement at the victories of Austerlitz and
+Jena than it was on the reappearance of Talma; and not satisfied with
+this, they insisted on his coming forth again. At length, amidst hurras
+and cries of "Talma! Talma!" the curtain was closed up, and my last
+impression rendered unfavourable by a vulgar, graceless figure in
+nankeen breeches and top-boots hurrying in from a side scene, dropping a
+swing bow in the centre of the stage, and then hurrying out again.
+
+Theatres are to Frenchmen what flowers are to bees: they live _in_ them
+and _upon_ them, and the sacrifice of liberty appears to be a tribute
+most willingly paid for the gratification they receive; for, to be sure,
+never can there exist a more despotic, arbitrary government than that of
+a French theatre. A soldier stands by from the moment you quit your
+carriage till you get into it; you are allowed no will of your own; if
+you wish to give directions to your servant, "Vite! Vite!" cries a
+whiskered sentry. Are you looking through the windows of the lobbies
+into the boxes for your party, you are ordered off by a gendarme. I saw
+one gentleman-like-looking man remonstrating; in a trice he was in
+durance vile. A Frenchman at his play must sit, stand, move, think, and
+speak as if he were on drill, and yet he endures the intolerance for
+doubtful benefits derived from this rigid regularity.
+
+In this play of "Manlius" were many passages highly applicable to
+Buonaparte, and Talma, who is supposed to be (_avec raison_) a secret
+partisan, gave them their full effect, but the listening vassals struck
+no octaves to his vibration. A few nights before we were at the Play in
+which were allusions to the Bourbons, and couplets without end of the
+most fulsome, disgusting compliments to the Duc de Berri, &c. These
+(shame upon the trifling, vacillating, mutable crew!) were received with
+loud applause by the majority of the pit. I did observe, however, that
+in that pit did sit a frowning, solemn, silent nucleus, but a nucleus of
+this description can never be large; a few Messieurs at 3 francs _par
+jour_ would soon, when dispersed amongst them, like grains of pepper in
+tasteless soup, diffuse a tone of palatibility over the whole and render
+it more agreeable to the taste of a Bourbon.
+
+_� propos_, we have seen the Bourbons. The King is a round, fat man, so
+fat that in their pictures they dare not give him the proper "_contour_"
+lest the police should suspect them of wishing to ridicule; but his face
+is mild and benevolent, and I verily believe his face to be a just
+reflection of his heart. Then comes Monsieur,[118] a man with more
+expression, but I did not see enough to form any opinion of my own, and
+I never heard any very decisive account from any one else. Then comes
+the Duchesse d'Angoul�me.[119] There is no milk and water there. What
+she really is I may not be able to detect, but I will forfeit my little
+finger if there is not something passing strange within her. She is
+called a Bigot and a Devotee; she has seen and felt enough, and more
+than enough, to make a stronger mind than hers either the one or the
+other, and I will excuse her if she is both. She is thin and genteel,
+grave and dignified; she puts her fan to her underlip as Napoleon would
+put his finger to his forehead, or his hand into his bosom. She stood
+up, she sat down, she knelt, when others stood or sat or knelt, but I
+question whether if she had been alone she would have done all according
+to bell and candle, rule or regulation.
+
+Then comes the Duchesse de Berri,[120] a young, pretty thing, a sort of
+royal kitten; and then comes her husband, the Duc de Berri, a short,
+vulgar-looking, anything but a kitten he is--but _arr�te toi_. I am in
+the land of vigilance, and already my pen trembles, for there are
+gendarmes in abundance in the streets, and Messieurs Bruce and Co. in La
+Force, and I do not wish to join their party. In England I may abuse our
+Prince Regent and call him fat, dissipated, and extravagant, but in
+France I dare not say "BO to a goose!" So, Je vous salue, M. le Duc de
+Berri.
+
+_� propos_ of the police. At the marriage of the above much honoured and
+respected Duc the illumiations were general. Murray's landlord was
+setting out his tallow candles, when Murray, guessing from certain
+innuendoes and shrugs (for before us English they are not much afraid of
+shrugging the shoulders or inventing an occasional "Bah!") that he would
+have been to the full as pleased if he had been lighting his candles
+upon the return of Napoleon, asked him, "Mais pourquoi faites vous cela?
+I suppose you may do as you like?" "Comment donc!" replied the
+astonished Frenchman; "do as I like! If I did not light my candles with
+all diligence, I should be called upon to-morrow by the police to pay a
+forfeit for not rejoicing."
+
+With all this I think on the whole the Bourbons are popular; people are
+accustomed to being bullied out of their opinions and use of their
+tongues, and they are so sick of war, with all its inconveniences and
+privations, that they begin to prefer inglorious repose. English money
+is very much approved of here, but if it could be procured without the
+personal attendance of the owners, I feel quite confident the French
+would prefer it.
+
+We are not popular. I suppose the sight of us must be grating to the
+feelings. We are like a blight on an apple-tree; we curl up their
+leaves, and they writhe under our pressure.
+
+The constant song of our drunken soldiers on the Boulevards commenced
+with--
+
+    "Louis Dixhuite, Louis dixhuite,
+     We have licked all your armies and sunk all your fleet."
+
+Luckily the words are not intelligible to the gaping Parisians, who
+generally, upon hearing the "Louis Dixhuite," took for granted the song
+was an ode in honour of the Bourbons, and grinned approbation. It is
+quite ridiculous, Paris cannot know itself. Where are the French?
+Nowhere. All is English; English carriages fill the streets, no other
+genteel Equipages are to be seen. At the Play Boxes are all English. At
+the Hotels, Restaurations--in short, everywhere--John Bull stalks
+incorporate. I see an Englishman with his little red book, the Paris
+guide, in one hand and map in the other, with a parcel of ragged boys at
+his heels pestering him for money. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who am ready
+to hold your stick. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who will call your coach.
+
+About the Thuilleries, indeed, and here and there, a few "bien poudr�d"
+little old men, "des bons Papas du Temps pass�," may be seen dry as
+Mummies and as shrivelled, with their ribbons and Croix St. Louis,
+tottering about. They are good, staunch Bourbons, ready, I daresay, to
+take the field "en voiture" for once, when taunted by the Imperial
+officers for being too old and decrepid to lead troops; an honest
+emigrant Marquis replied that he did not see why he should not command a
+regiment and lead it on "dans son Cabriolet."
+
+We have been unfortunate in not arriving soon enough to be present at
+the Duke of Wellington's Balls. At the last a curious circumstance took
+place. (You may rely upon it's being true.) Word was brought to him
+that the house was in danger from fire. He went down, and in a sort of
+subterranean room some cartridges were discovered close to a lamp
+containing a great quantity of oil, and it was evident they had been
+placed there with design. The first report was that barrels of gunpowder
+had been found, and strange associations were whispered as to Guy Fawkes
+and Louis XVIII. being one and the same; but the powder was not
+sufficient to do any great mischief, and the general idea is that had it
+exploded, confusion would have ensued, the company would have been
+alarmed, the ladies would have screamed and fled to the door and street,
+where parties were in full readiness and expectations of Diamonds,
+&c....
+
+We stay over Monday, for there is a grand Review on the Boulevards. We
+have seen Cuirassiers and Lancers shining in the sun and fluttering
+their little banner in the air. The Bourbons, who are determined to root
+out every vestige of the past, are now stripping the Troops of the
+Uniform which remind the wearers of battles fought and cities won, and
+re-clothing them in the white dress of the "ancien R�gime," which is
+wretchedly ugly. They know best what they are about, and they certainly
+have a people to deal with unlike the rest of the world, but were I a
+Bourbon, I should be cautious how I proceeded in demolishing everything
+which reminded the people of their recent glory. Luckily the column on
+the Place Vend�me has as yet escaped the Goths, and its bronze basso
+reliefs are still the pride of Paris.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley._
+
+_July 13, 1816._
+
+Days in Paris are like lumps of barley sugar, sweet to the taste and
+melting rapidly away.... We have now seen theatres, shows, gardens,
+museums, palaces, and prisons. Aye, Louisa, we have been immured within
+the walls of La Force, and that from inclination! not necessity.
+
+We procured an order to see Bruce,[121] and after some shuttlecock sort
+of work, sending and being sent from office to office and Pr�fet to
+Pr�fet, at length we received our order of admission.
+
+In this order our persons are described; the man put me down "sourcils
+gris." "Mais, Monsieur," said I, "they will never admit me with that
+account." He looked at me again, "Ah! vos cheveux sont gris, mais pour
+les sourcils, non pas, vous avez raison," and altering them to "noirs,"
+he sent me about my business.
+
+Bar and bolt were opened, and at length we found ourselves in the
+presence of these popular prisoners--Popular, at least, amongst the
+female part of the world. I have reason to believe that a few of the
+Miss Stanleys had formed a romantic attachment for Michael Bruce, and
+there are few of our adventures which would, I think, have given you
+more pleasure than this visit. Your heart would have been torn from its
+little resting-place and been imprisoned for ever. Michael Bruce! such
+an eye! such a figure! such a countenance! such a voice! and so much
+sense and elegance of manner, and then so interesting! There he sat in a
+small, wretched room, dirty and felonious, with two little windows, one
+looking into a court where a parcel of ragged prisoners were playing at
+fives, the other into a sort of garden where others were loitering away
+their listless vacuity of time.
+
+I will not tell you what he said, for it would but inflame a wound which
+I cannot heal, and because part of his conversation was secret, _i.e._,
+of a very interesting and curious nature which I cannot write and must
+not speak of. "Oh! dear Uncle, why won't you tell? a secret from Michael
+Bruce in the prison of La Force!"
+
+No, Louisa, I dare not speak of it to the winds. Captain Hutchinson was
+his companion, Sir Robert Wilson is in another room. The Captain has
+nothing very interesting in his manner or appearance. He is very plain,
+very positive, and very angry. Well he may be. So would you if, like
+him, you had been immured in a room about eight feet by twelve, in which
+you were forced to eat, sleep, and reside for three months. Their
+penance closes on the 24th, when Michael Bruce returns to London. I
+hope you are not going there this year.
+
+From such a subject as Michael Bruce it will not do to descend to any of
+the trifling fopperies of Paris.
+
+Let me, then, give you a short account of our visit to Fountain
+Elephant, which if ever finished, with its concomitant streets, &c.,
+will be an 8th wonder of the world. Its History is this: On the Site of
+the Bastille (of which not a vestige remains) Buonaparte thought he
+would erect a fountain, and looking at the Plans of Paris, he conceived
+the splendid idea of knocking down all the houses between the
+Thuilleries and this Fountain and forming one wide, straight street, so
+that from the Palace of the Thuilleries he might see whatever object he
+might be pleased to place at the extremity. This street is actually
+begun; when executed, which it never will be, there will be an avenue,
+partly houses, partly trees, from Barri�re d'�toile to the Fountain, at
+least six miles. Having got this Fountain in his head, he sent for De
+Non,[122] who superintended all his works, and said, "De Non, I must
+have a fountain, and the fountain shall be a beast." So De Non set his
+wits to work, and talked of Lions and Tigers, &c., when Buonaparte
+fixed upon an Elephant, with a Castle upon his back, and an Elephant
+there is. At present they have merely a model of plaister upon which the
+bronze coating is to be wrought, for the whole is to be in bronze with
+gilt trappings. He is to stand upon an elevated pedestal, which is
+already completed. The height will be about 60 feet, nearly as high as
+Alderley Steeple. The castle will hold water; the inside is to be a
+room, and the staircase is to be in one of the legs. The porter who
+showed it was exceedingly proud of the performance, and when I expressed
+my astonishment at Buonaparte's numerous plans and the difficulty he
+must have been at to procure money, looking cautiously about him, he
+said, "Oh, mais il avoit le don d'un Dieu," and then grasping my arm
+with one hand and tapping me on the shoulder with the other, and again
+looking round to see if then the coast was clear, he added, "Mais il n'y
+est plus, ah, vous comprenez cela n'est-ce pas," and then casting a look
+at his Elephant he concluded with a sigh and a mutter, "Superbe, ah,
+pardi, que c'est superbe!"
+
+Kitty has been dressing herself _� la Fran�aise_, and we have been
+purchasing a large box of flowers, which we hope to show you in England,
+if the Custom House officers will allow us to pay the duties, but we
+hear most alarming accounts of their ferocity and rapacity. They will
+soon, it is said, seize the very clothes you have on, if of French
+manufacture; if so, adieu to three pairs of black silk stockings and as
+many pocket handkerchiefs, to say nothing of a perfect pet of an ivory
+dog which I intend to present to your Mama, and to say nothing of five
+perfect pets for Maria and you four eldest girls of the family of
+Harlequin and Punch, to be worn on your necklaces during the happy
+weeks. They are of mother of pearl about an inch high, the most comical
+fellows I ever beheld. It is necessary that I should tell you of the
+presents, because if they are seized, you know I shall still be entitled
+to the merit of selecting them. We have bought a few books. A thick
+octavo is here worth about four or five shillings, and the duty is, we
+understand, about one shilling more. One is a life of the Duke of
+Marlborough. Buonaparte said it was a reflection upon England not to
+have a life of her greatest Hero, and therefore he would be his
+biographer; accordingly he set his men to work and collected the
+materials. Report speaks favourably of it, but I have been so busied in
+looking and walking about that I shall not be surprised if I find that I
+have almost forgotten to read upon my return!
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley._
+
+TUESDAY MORNING, _July 13th_.
+
+We are in Paris still, and do not depart till to-morrow, dedicating this
+day in company with the Murrays to St. Denis and Malmaison, and then I
+think we shall have seen everything worth seeing in or near this queer
+metropolis. One day last week we went to our old friend, L'abb�
+Sicard,[123] and attended a lecture in which about 20 of his young
+scholars exhibited their powers. The poor Abb� was, as usual, dreadfully
+prolix, and occupied an hour in words which might have been condensed
+within the compass of a Minute, and poor Massuer yawned and shut his
+eyes ever and anon. Clair was not there, and as we were under the
+necessity of going away before the Lecture was closed, we could not
+renew our acquaintance. Since last year he has taught his pupils to
+speak, and two dumb boys talked to each other with great success. I will
+show you the mode when we meet, but as you are not dumb it will be a
+mere gratification of Curiosity. Our Assignation which called us from
+the Lecture was to meet the Sothebys and Murrays and many others at the
+Buvin d'Enfer, near which is the descent to the Catacombs, where upwards
+of 3 million of Skulls are arranged in tasty grimaces thro' Streets of
+Bones, but my Sketch Book has long given an idea of these ossifatory
+Exhibitions. Only think, a cousin of Donald's and a very great friend of
+mine, a Capt. McDonald, whom you would all be in love with, he is so
+handsome and interesting, was shut up there a short time ago by
+accident, and if the Keeper had not luckily recollected the number of
+persons who descended and discovered one was missing, he would very soon
+have joined the bone party. There is another Cimeti�re called that of
+P�re la Chaise, of a very different description, and infinitely more
+interesting. It is the grand burial-place of Paris; all who choose may
+purchase little plots of ground, from a square foot to an acre, for the
+deposition of themselves and their families. Its extent is about 84
+French acres, and upon no spot in the world is the French character so
+perfectly portrayed. Each individual encloses his plot and ornaments it
+as he chooses, and the variety is quite astonishing. It appears like a
+large Shop full of toys, work-baskets, Columns, little Cottages,
+pyramids, mounts--in short, what is there in the form of a Monument
+which may not there be found? A pert little Column with a fanciful top,
+crowned by a smart wire basket filled with roses, marked the grave, I
+concluded, of some beautiful young girl of 15 or 16. Lo and behold! it
+was placed there to commemorate "un ancien Magistrat de France," aged
+62. The most interesting are Ney's and Lab�doy�re's,[124] the former, a
+solid tomb of marble, simply tells that Marshal Ney, Prince of La
+Moskowa, is below. Both were rather profusely decorated with wreaths of
+flowers, it being the custom for the friends of the deceased to strew
+from time to time the graves with flowers, or decorate them with
+garlands. Soldiers have been often seen weeping over these graves, and
+it is by them these wreaths were placed. Ney's had just received its
+tribute of a beautiful garland of blue cornflowers: and the other a
+Chaplet of Honeysuckle. By both graves were weeping willows. Mr.
+Sotheby's friend, the poet Delille,[125] sleeps beneath a cumbrous mass
+of marble, within which his wife immerses herself once a week, to
+manifest sorrow for one whose incessant tormentor I am told she was
+during his life. The inscriptions were for the most part commonplace. I
+copied out a few of the best. I was sorry to observe not one in 20 had
+the slightest allusion to Religion. There was one offering which
+particularly attracted my attention and admiration. Over a simple mound,
+the resting-place of a little child, were scattered white flowers, and
+amongst them a bunch of cherries, evidently the tribute from some other
+little child who had thus offered up that which to him appeared most
+valuable. The exclusion of the selfish principle in this display of
+sentiment and feeling quite delighted me.
+
+[Illustration: PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS.
+
+_To face page 300._]
+
+The day after we visited the Louvre it was closed, and none have been
+admitted since. I believe they are scratching out some N's or Eagles. I
+should conceive these to be the last of their species, for the activity
+and extent of this effacement of emblems related to Napoleon is past all
+belief. In a picture of Boulogne in the Luxembourg, amongst the figures
+in the foreground was a little Buonaparte, about two inches high,
+reviewing some troops. They have actually changed his features and
+figure, and, if I recollect rightly, altered his cockade and Uniform....
+In the Mus�e des Arts and M�tiers are some models of ships; even these
+were obliged to strike their Lilliputian tri-colours and hoist the white
+Ensign. And now Paris, fare thee well.... Thou art a mixture of strange
+ingredients. "Oh," said the Hairdresser who was cutting Kitty's hair
+yesterday, "had we your National spirit we should be a great people,
+mais c'est l'�goisme qui regne � Paris." Their manner is quite
+fascinating, so civil, so polished. The people are like the Town, and
+the Town is like a Frenchman's Chemise, a magnificent frill with fine
+lace and Embroidery, but the rest ragged. The frill of the Thuilleries
+and Champs Elys�es are perfect fairylands, the streets all that is
+execrable. No wonder the cleaners of boots and shoes are in a state of
+perpetual requisition. In one shop I saw elevated benches, on which sat
+many gentry with their feet upon a level with the cleaners' noses, where
+they sat like Statues, and I was actually induced to go back to satisfy
+myself that they were real men. English notices are frequent in the
+streets, some not over correct in style; for example, over a
+Hairdresser's in the Palais Royal--"The Cabinet for the cut of the
+hairs."
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+ST. GERMAIN, _July 16, 1816_.
+
+Surely you must have forgot what it is to be divided by land and sea
+from what you love, or when you were abroad you left nobody behind whom
+you cared about, or you would not fancy that I should not find time or
+inclination to read as many trifles as you can find to send, or that
+they should not give me almost as much pleasure, and be read with as
+much interest, as if I were shut up in the next dungeon to Mr. Bruce at
+La Force.... While you were enjoying the view of Beeston Castle, we were
+eating strawberries and cream under the trees in the Jardin des Plantes
+on the only hot day we have had.... I am in no danger of forgetting you,
+and if I have not written oftener, it has only been because Edward got
+the start of me in beginning to write in detail, and he is so inimitable
+in description that I could not go over the same ground with him.... I
+do wish I could give you one of our day's amusement, and jump you over
+here in mind and body to leave all your cares behind you....
+
+At last we have bid goodbye to Paris, but every day seemed to bring
+something fresh to see, and we stayed two or three days longer than we
+intended yesterday to see St. Denis. It is not so fine as most of the
+churches we saw in Holland, but the historical interest is so great and
+so curious that I would not have missed seeing it for the world. Over
+the door all the guillotined figures of the Revolution; in the church
+the repairs which were begun by Buonaparte, now finishing by Louis;
+every stone and step you go marked by some association of one or other
+of these periods. As Buonaparte's own power increased, his respect for
+crowned heads and authorities increased, I suppose, and so he had put up
+_Fleurs de Lys_ himself for the Bourbons in one part of the church, and
+he had prepared a vault for himself, decorated above with bees and
+statues of the six Kings of France who had the title of Emperor. To this
+vault he had made two bronze doors with gold ornaments and gold lions'
+heads, one of which flew back with a spring, and discovered three
+keyholes, to which there were three golden keys. The Sacristy he filled
+with chef d'oeuvres of the best French artists, representing those parts
+of the History of France connected with St. Denis and with his own views
+of Empire.
+
+The beautiful white marble steps leading to the altar beneath which the
+seventh Emperor was to be laid were just finished when Louis XVIII. came
+to fill the tomb, which was just prepared, with the bones of Louis XVI.,
+to depose the Emperor, to complete the marble pavement, and to extend
+the _fleurs de lys_ over the whole church.
+
+And upon the stone which now conceals the entrance to the vault the
+Duchesse d'Angoul�me always kneels at the grave of her father, for the
+fine bronze doors are deposed also, only, I believe, because they were
+placed there by Buonaparte, and now they have to get into the Vault by
+taking up the stone. We got into the carriage full of Buonaparte,
+returned to Paris, and then got out again with the Murrays at Malmaison.
+It is the only enviable French house I have seen, and deserves
+everything Edward said about it, even without the statues and half the
+pictures which are taken away.
+
+We spent three or four hours in the Thuilleries Gardens on Sunday.
+Buonaparte must have thought of gilding the dome of the Invalides when
+he was walking in the Jardin des Thuilleries, it suits the whole thing
+so exactly. A French crowd is so gay with the women's shawls and flowers
+that they assimilate well with the real flowers, and are almost as great
+an ornament to the Garden. A shower came on just as we were standing
+near the Palace, and at that moment the guards took their posts as a
+signal the King was going to Mass, so Edward and I followed the crowd to
+the Salle des Mar�chaux (they would not admit Donald because he had
+gaiters, and Edward had luckily trowsers), and there we saw Louis XVIII.
+and the Duchesse d'Angoul�me and Monsieur much better than we had done
+the Sunday before, with all the trouble of getting a ticket for
+admission into the Chapel, and being squeezed to death into the bargain.
+His Majesty is more like a Turtle than anything else, and shows external
+evidence of his great affection for Turtle soup. His walk is quite
+curious. One of his most intimate friends says that in spite of his
+devotion _Le Roi est un peu philosophe_. We staid on Monday to see a
+review. Donald introduced us to a Mr. and Mrs. Boyd, who have lived in
+France the last 14 years, and have a terrace that overlooks the
+Boulevards, so there we sat very commodiously and saw the King and the
+Duchesses de Berri and Angoul�me, in an open Cal�che, pass through the
+double row of troops which lined the Boulevards from one end to the
+other, and a beautiful sight it was. Mr. Boyd invited me to a party at
+his house in the country, and in the hopes of seeing that _rara avis_, a
+French lady or gentleman, I said yes. So I sent for a hairdresser, who
+came post haste, and amused me with his _politesse_, and Edward with his
+_politique_. I was quite sorry I could not have him again.
+
+We dined with the Murrays, and then went on to Mr. Boyd, where I found
+myself the only lady there dressed amongst about forty. That is to say,
+their heads and tails were all in morning costume and mine in
+evening....
+
+I must go back one more day, and tell you how I went to be described for
+a passport to La Force on Saturday, and how I thought Mr. Bruce more of
+a hero young man than any I have ever seen. I recollect seeing him
+before, and thinking him a coxcomb, but a few years have mellowed all
+that into a very fine young man.
+
+Making every allowance for seeing him in his dungeon in La Force, I
+think you would be delighted with his countenance. He spoke his
+sentiments with manly freedom, and yet with the liberality of one who
+thinks it possible a man may differ from him without being a fool, or a
+rascal. Lucy and Louisa would certainly have fallen in love with his
+fine Roman head, which his prison costume of a great coat and no
+neckcloth showed to great advantage.
+
+And now, adieu Paris! At 2 o'clock on Wednesday a green coach, which
+none of you could see without ten minutes' laughing at least--three
+horses and a postillion! (what would I give just to drive up to
+Winnington with the whole equipage!)--carried us to Versailles, and
+there I longed for Louis XIV. as much as for Buonaparte at St. Cloud;
+for one cannot fancy any one living in those rooms or walking in those
+gardens without hoops and Henri quatre plumes. If one could but people
+them properly for a couple of hours, what a delightful recollection it
+would be! Versailles ought to be seen last. It is so magnificent that
+every other thing of the sort is quite lost in the comparison. I am glad
+I saw Paris and the Tuilleries and St. Cloud first. We saw the Palace,
+and then we dined, and then we set out for the Trianon, and then we met
+with a guide who entertained us so much as to put Louis XIV. and all his
+court out of my head. Buonaparte never went to Versailles but once to
+look at it, but at the Trianon he and Jos�phine lived, and it is
+impossible, in seeing those places, not to feel the principal interest
+to be in the inquiry--where he lived? where he sat? where he walked?
+where he slept?--so accordingly we asked our guide. "Monsieur, je ne
+connais point ce coquin l�" soon told us what we were to expect from
+him, but his silence and his loyalty, and the combat between his hatred
+of the English and his hatred of Buonaparte was so amusing that we
+soon forgave him for not telling us anything about him. He said "Bony"
+was only "fit to be hanged." "Why did you not hang him, then?" He could
+only shrug his shoulders. "We should have hung him for you if he had
+come to England." "Ma foi! Monsieur, je crois que non." He told us the
+stories of the rooms and the pictures with all the vivacity and rapidity
+of a Frenchman, and with pretty little turns of wit.... Donald asked him
+if a cabinet in one of the rooms had not been given by the Empress of
+Russia to Buonaparte? He instantly seized him by the button with an air
+of triumph. "Tenez, Monsieur, quand l'Empereur de Russie �tait ici, il a
+vu ce Cabinet et a dit; otez cette Volaille l�" (pointing to the
+compartment in which the Imperial Eagles had been changed into Angels).
+"Je l'ai donn� aux Fran�ais, et lui--il n'�tait pas Fran�ais."
+
+[Illustration: The Great Green Coach.
+
+_To face p. 306._]
+
+In all the royal house the servants are equally impenetrable on the
+subject of Buonaparte. But sometimes it seems put on, sometimes they
+really do not know from having been only lately put there, but this man
+was a genuine Bourbonist and a genuine Frenchman.
+
+We just got to St. Germain in time to walk on the Terrace before evening
+closed in over the beautiful view. The Palace and the Town put me quite
+in mind of the deserted court in the "Arabian Nights." ...
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Nieces. Tuesday morning._
+
+I could fill another letter with the interesting things we saw yesterday
+at St. Denis and Malmaison, but we are off in an hour, and it is
+possible you may hear no more from these
+
+HAPPY TRAVELLERS.
+
+[Illustration: ALDERLEY RECTORY.]
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+Abbeville, Louis XVIII. at, 244
+
+Abercromby, Colonel, 280
+
+Aisne, river, 145-161
+
+Aix la Chapelle, 146, 183, 191, 194, 205
+
+_Albania_, ship at Antwerp, 203
+
+Albinus, German anatomist, 232
+
+Alderley, 10, 12, 15, 16, 17-21, 24, 68, 74, 75, 96, 120, 236, 249, 283,
+296
+
+Alderley Church, 102
+
+Alderley Edge, 16
+
+Alderley Park, 14
+
+Alderley Rectory, 15-17
+
+Alessandria, Plain of Marengo, 49
+
+Alexander I., Emperor of Russia, 76, 82-85, 93, 133, 177, 178, 222, 229,
+237, 244, 245
+
+Algeciras Bay, 53
+
+Alhama, Spain, 58, 63
+
+Alhambra, The, 59, 61, 63, 64
+
+Alien Office, The, 82
+
+Alkmaar, 205
+
+"Allemagne," By Madame de Sta�l, 128
+
+Allied Sovereigns, 82, 95, 152
+
+Allies, 105, 115, 116, 126, 156, 160-162, 168, 196, 197, 236, 237, 242
+
+Alps, 57
+
+Ambassador, English, Sir Charles Stuart, 112
+
+Ambassador, Swedish, M. de Sta�l, 132
+
+Ambolle, Baron d', at Fontainebleau, 153
+
+_Ambuscade_, picture of capture of the frigate, 136
+
+Amiens, Peace of, 25, 73
+
+Amsterdam, 211, 222-224, 226
+
+Andernach on the Rhine, 187
+
+Angerstein Collection, 113
+
+Anglesey Society, 10
+
+Anglesey, Lord, his leg buried at Waterloo, 261
+
+Angoul�me, Duchesse d', 289
+
+Antiquiera, Spain, 60, 64
+
+Antwerp, 199, 204, 206, 208, 209, 210, 233, 253
+
+Antwerp Gate, Bergen op Zoom, 214, 217
+
+Apreece, Mrs., afterwards Lady Davey, 81
+
+_Argonauta_, Spanish vessel, 51, 53, 56
+
+Ashbourne, 248
+
+Augereau, General, 238
+
+Austerlitz, 138, 269, 287
+
+Austria, 179, 181
+
+Austria, Emperor of, 135, 237
+
+
+Bacharach on the Rhine, 172, 184, 185
+
+Banks, Sir Joseph, 93
+
+Barcelona, 50, 52, 54, 55, 60, 69, 70
+
+Barclay de Tolly, 116
+
+Baring, Major, 268
+
+Barth�lemy, 237
+
+Bastille, 295
+
+Batavia, 193
+
+Beauharnais, Eug�ne, Viceroy of Italy, 132, 134
+
+Bees, Napoleon's, 150
+
+Beeston Castle, 301
+
+Belleville, 115, 116, 117
+
+Belluno, Duc du, _see_ Victor
+
+Benedictines, head cook to convent of, 41
+
+Beresford, Viscount, Marshal, 74
+
+Bergen op Zoom, 199, 208-212
+
+Berghem, Dutch painter (1624-1683), 201
+
+Berri, Duc de, 139, 140, 152, 282, 289
+
+Berri, Duchesse de, 289, 305
+
+Berry au Bac, 145, 163, 164
+
+Berthier, Marshal, Prince de Wagram, 138, 149
+
+Bertrand, General, 269
+
+Bessborough, Earl of, 86
+
+Bessi�res, Marshal, Duc d'Istria, 137
+
+Beveland, South, 210
+
+Bidwell, 122
+
+Bingen on the Rhine, 183
+
+"Birds, Familiar History of," by Bishop Stanley, 17
+
+_Bittern_, H.M.S., 67
+
+Bl�cher, 85, 86, 88, 89, 93, 145, 263
+
+Boher, French sculptor (d. 1825), 132
+
+Bois de Boulogne, 177
+
+Bolero, Spanish dance, 60
+
+Bonn, music on the Rhine, 188
+
+Boodle's Club, 33
+
+Borneo Mission, 23
+
+Borodino, 177
+
+Boulogne, 107-252
+
+Bourbons, The, 78, 107, 237, 284, 288-292
+
+Boyd, Mr. and Mrs., 304
+
+Brabant, 181
+
+Breda, 209, 217, 218, 226
+
+Brisbane, Sir Thomas, at Valenciennes, 279, 283
+
+Brise-Maison, General, _see_ Maison
+
+British character, 195
+
+British soldiers, 166
+
+_Britomart_, H.M.S., 18
+
+Brock, Holland, 227
+
+Brooke, Sir James, English traveller, Rajah of Sarawack (1803-1868), 23
+
+Bruce, Michael, the Englishman who helped Lavalette to escape, 293, 294
+
+Bruges, 247, 258, 260, 273
+
+Brussels, 193, 195, 197, 199, 200, 208, 209, 233, 264, 269, 274, 277
+
+Buiksloot, North Holland, 226
+
+B�low, Marshal, 145
+
+Buonaparte, Napoleon, Emperor, 34, 35, 37, 40, 46, 47, 50, 74, 90, 99,
+100, 118, 120, 121, 130, 138-140, 148, 152-154, 162, 175, 180, 238, 241,
+244, 266, 271, 275, 281, 282, 288, 295, 296, 300, 302, 303, 304, 306-307
+
+Buonaparte family, 237
+
+Buonaparte, Louis, King of Holland, 225
+
+Buonaparte, Lucien, 83
+
+Burgundy, 46
+
+"Bustle's Banquet," by Rev. E. Stanley, 17
+
+Buttereax, plains of, Lyons, 43
+
+"Butterfly's Ball," by Sir H. Roscoe, 17
+
+Buvin d'Enfer, 298
+
+Byng's Brigade, 263
+
+Byron, Lord, 79
+
+
+Cadiz, 53, 61, 68
+
+Caf� des Mille Colonnes, Paris, 142, 281
+
+Calick, Russia, 174
+
+"Calife Voleur, Le" Ballet, 88
+
+Cambray, 247, 279, 283
+
+Cambridge, 11, 12, 25, 40, 50, 81, 247, 248, 250
+
+Campo Formio, Treaty of (1797), 243
+
+Cannes, 242
+
+Canova, 132
+
+Canterbury, 249
+
+Cardinals at Fontainebleau, 152
+
+Carleton, Mr., 251
+
+Carlton House, 83
+
+Carnival of Venice, 240
+
+Caroline of Naples, 289
+
+Carousel, Place de, 37, 136, 139
+
+Castlereagh, Lord, 87
+
+Catacombs, Paris, 143, 286, 298
+
+Catalonia, 56
+
+Catherine, Grand-Duchess of Russia, _see_ Oldenburg
+
+Ch�lons, 41-43, 146, 156, 168
+
+Chamber of Representatives, 130
+
+Chambord, Comte de, 139
+
+Champagne, 41, 46
+
+Champlain, Lake, 238
+
+Champs Elys�es, 119, 139, 301
+
+Charenton, near Paris, 116
+
+Charlemont, Anne, Lady, daughter and heiress of William Bermingham, of
+Ross Hill, co. Galway (d. 1876), aged 95, 132
+
+Charleroi, 276
+
+Charles IV., King of Spain, 64, 70
+
+Ch�teau Thierry, 145, 157
+
+Chatham, Earl of, 203
+
+Chatillon, 41
+
+Chavignon, near Laon, 161
+
+Chichester, Thomas, 2nd Earl of, 244
+
+"Childe Harold," 80
+
+Cholmondeley, Miss, 82
+
+Churchill, Major, 95
+
+Clancarty, Lord, Ambassador, 82, 233
+
+Clarke, Marshal, Duc de Feltre, 243
+
+Clinton, Lady Louisa, daughter of Lord Sheffield, 76, 251
+
+Clinton, General Sir Henry, 75
+
+Clinton, General Sir William, married Lady Louisa Holroyd, 75
+
+Coblentz, 186
+
+Cole, Sir Lowry, 279, 283
+
+Cologne, 172, 186, 190
+
+Colonne, Vend�me, 110
+
+Combermere, Lord, 96
+
+Compi�gne, 281, 283, 284
+
+"Comte de Cely," 78
+
+Conclave of St. Peter at Fontainebleau, 152
+
+Congress of Vienna, 235
+
+Constant, Napoleon's valet, 152
+
+Constantine, Grand Duke, 178
+
+Constantino, Grand Duchess, 240
+
+Consul, The First, 26, 37, 73
+
+Cooke, Major-General, 210, 211, 214
+
+Coote, Sir Evelyn, 259
+
+Corbeny, France, 163, 164
+
+"Corinne," by Mdme. de Sta�l, 79
+
+Cork, Lady, 86
+
+Cornegliano, Duc de, _see_ Moncey
+
+Coronation, The, 165
+
+Corps L�gislatif, 129, 135
+
+Corte, La, 260
+
+Cotton trade, Rouen, 28
+
+Court dress necessary, 69
+
+Court etiquette, Buonaparte's tenacity as to, 37
+
+Court Martial, Gibraltar, in 1802, 66
+
+Craon or Craonne, 145, 156, 163
+
+Craufurd, Donald, of Auchinanes, 85, 246, 265, 276
+
+Croix, St. Louis, 291
+
+Cross, Mr. John, 98, 99
+
+Crosses, roadside, in Spain, signs of murders committed, 59
+
+Curtis, Sir William, 88
+
+Cutts Inn, Wilmslow, hamlet near Alderley, 162
+
+
+Dalmatie, Duc de, _see_ Soult
+
+D'Ang�ly, _see_ R�gnaud
+
+Dantzig, Duc de, _see_ Lefebre
+
+Davenport, E. D., of Capesthorne, 163
+
+Davoust, Marshal, Prince d'Eckm�hl, 137
+
+Davy, Lady, 79, 81
+
+Davy, Sir Humphrey, 79, 81
+
+De Lille, poet, 300
+
+Dendrich, boundary France and Austria, 179
+
+Denia, Spain, 71
+
+De Non, French artist under Napoleon, 295, 296
+
+Desaix, General, killed at Marengo (1800), 50
+
+Dijon, 41
+
+"Dinner of the Dogs," or "Bustle's Banquet," 17
+
+Directory, The, 50
+
+Doge of Genoa, 50
+
+Douglas, Hon. Frederick, interview with Napoleon, 240, 241
+
+Dover, 187
+
+Dow, Gerard, Dutch painter, 38
+
+Dragoons at Rouen (1802), 30
+
+Dresden, Battle of (1813), 76
+
+Duels between Russian and French officers, 107
+
+Du Mare, French professor, 124
+
+Dum�ril, Andre, French physician, 124
+
+Dumolard, French politician, 130
+
+Du Pont, General, 139
+
+Dutch ark, 202
+
+Dutch carving, 205
+
+Dutch cleanliness, 227, 231
+
+Dutch family, 253
+
+Dutch guide, 230
+
+Dutch impenetrability, 224
+
+Dutch road, 209
+
+Dutch table d'h�te, 226
+
+Dykes, marvellous, 228, 229
+
+
+Eagle and Child, inn at Alderley, 272
+
+Eagles, Napoleon's, 110, 147, 150, 269, 282, 300, 307
+
+Eckm�hl, Prince d', _see_ Davoust
+
+Ecole Polytechnique, 116, 175
+
+Edridge, H., painter, 139
+
+Egerton, Colonel, 280
+
+Egerton, Mr., 87
+
+Egypt, 42
+
+Ehrenbreitstein, 187
+
+Ehrenfels, Castle of, 184
+
+Elba, 46, 75, 159
+
+Elephant, fountain, 295-296
+
+Embden, 31
+
+Emigrants, French, 18
+
+Emperor's abdication, 75
+
+Emperor Alexander, _see_ Alexander
+
+Emperor of Austria, 135
+
+Emperor Napoleon, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Empress Jos�phine, _see_ Jos�phine
+
+Empress Maria Louisa, _see_ Maria Louisa
+
+Empress of Russia, 307
+
+Enghien, Duc d', 134, 245
+
+Entomologist, 185
+
+Entomology, 17, 124
+
+Ephemera, 186
+
+Etruria, King of, 50, 52
+
+Eug�ne Beauharnais, _see_ Beauharnais
+
+Executions, 43, 44
+
+Ex-Imperial Guard, 148
+
+
+Fagan, Mr., 46
+
+Fandangos, 60
+
+Fanshawe, Catherine, 77, 78
+
+Felix Meritus, Dutch museum, 225
+
+Feltre, Duke of, _see_ Clarke
+
+Ferdinand VII., King of Spain, 239
+
+Ferreant, Place de, Lyons, 43
+
+Flanders, 74
+
+Fleurs de Lys, 303
+
+Flushing, 210
+
+Foljambe, Mr., 249
+
+Fontainebleau, 145-146, 149, 152
+
+Forbach, 179
+
+Forbes, Lady Elizabeth, 240
+
+Fountain Elephant, 295-296
+
+Frascati, 33, 34, 39
+
+French emigrants, 18
+
+Fribourg, 170
+
+"Fugio ut Fulgor," 103
+
+
+Garde Imp�riale, 107
+
+Gardes d'Honneur, 148
+
+Garrison of Gibraltar, 66, 67, 70
+
+Gazettes, 105
+
+Genappes, 270
+
+Generalife at Granada, 59
+
+Geneva, 35, 40, 43, 46-47, 49, 55
+
+Genoa, 47, 50
+
+George Street, 90
+
+Ghent, 274-275
+
+Gibbon, 15
+
+Gibraltar, 25, 55, 57, 60, 61, 65, 71
+
+Glenbervie, Lord and Lady, 236, 240
+
+Goat curricles, 222
+
+Goat gigs, 233
+
+Godoy, Emanuel, Prince of Peace, 64, 70
+
+Gore, General, 211
+
+Gorum, 220-222
+
+Goths, 293
+
+Graham, Sir Thomas, 207, 213
+
+Granada, 57, 59, 60, 62, 66
+
+Grand Tour, 25
+
+Gronow, Memoirs of Captain, 107
+
+Grosvenor Place, 39
+
+Grosvenor, Lord, 113
+
+Guarda Costas, 68
+
+Guido, painter, 38
+
+Guignes, 145, 153, 154
+
+Guillotine, The, 43
+
+
+Haarlem, 230, 231
+
+Hague, The, 112, 233
+
+_Hannibal_, The ship, 53
+
+Hardwicke, Earl of, 112
+
+Hare, Rev. Augustus, 16
+
+Hare, Mrs. Augustus, Maria Leycester, 16
+
+Hare, Augustus J. C., 16
+
+Harlequin and Punch, 297
+
+Harris, Captain, 74
+
+Haslar Hospital, 98
+
+Ha�y, mineralogist, 124
+
+Havre, 94, 96, 99, 100, 103, 105
+
+Haye, Sainte, La, 268
+
+Hazard, Rue du, Paris, 109, 143
+
+Heber, Reginald, Bishop of Calcutta (1783-1826), 16, 90
+
+Hodnet, 16
+
+Holland, 76, 159, 200, 226, 302
+
+Holland, Dr., 86
+
+Holroyd, Lady Maria Josepha, _see_ also Stanley, 14
+
+
+Holyhead Harbour, 255
+
+Holyhead Island, 10, 17
+
+Holywell, Alderley, 16
+
+Hookham's, 93
+
+H�pital de la Charit�, 45
+
+H�pital des Invalides, 282
+
+Hermitage, Forest of Fontainebleau, 147
+
+Hibberts, the, 132, 168
+
+Highlake, Hoylake, Cheshire, 55, 69
+
+Hill, Rowland, General Lord Hill 95, 96
+
+Hobart Town, Tasmania, 18
+
+Hobbema, Dutch painter (d. 1699), 201
+
+Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle, 128
+
+H�tel de Boston, Paris, 35
+
+H�tel des Etrangers, Paris, 143
+
+H�tel du Parc, Lyons, 43
+
+Hotel in the Wood, Haarlem, 230
+
+Hougoumont, 263, 265, 266, 267
+
+Hulot, General, 76
+
+Hundred Days, The, 244
+
+Hussey, Edward, of Scotney Castle, 25, 26, 32, 41, 71
+
+Hutchinson, Captain, 293, 294
+
+Huxley, Professor, 18
+
+Hy�res, 48
+
+
+ICELANDIC EXPEDITION, made by Sir John Stanley, 7th Bart. (1788), 56
+
+"Ida of Athens," story written by Lady Morgan at Penrhos, Holyhead. Her
+study "Attica" so called to present day, 232
+
+Imperial Chasseurs, 107
+
+India House illumination (1814), 84
+
+Infanta of Spain, Queen of Etruria, 52
+
+Invalides, H�tel des, 49, 115, 282
+
+Istria, Duc d', _see_ Bessi�res
+
+
+Jourdan, General, (1762-1833), 49, 136, 146
+
+
+LA BELLE ALLIANCE, 263, 267
+
+Lab�doy�re, General, 299
+
+Laeken, Palace of, 275
+
+Lady Penrhyn's cottages, allusion to the model village of Llandegai in
+Wales, 227
+
+Lafayette, General, Marquis de, 126
+
+La Haye, Sainte, 268
+
+Laird, English Consul, Malaga, 58
+
+Lamb, Lady Caroline, 86
+
+Lansdowne, Lord, 78
+
+Laon, 145, 146, 156, 161-163
+
+"La Reyna Louisa," 54
+
+Lavalette, General, 293
+
+Le Brun, 38
+
+Lefebre, Marshal, Duc de Dantzig, 138
+
+Leghs, The, of High Legh, 285
+
+Leghorn, 50-52
+
+Leighton, Sir Baldwin, Bart., of Loton, 68
+
+Leipzic, Battle of, 170, 177
+
+Leith, _The John of Leith_
+
+Leith, the Emperor sails from, 56
+
+L'Ettorel, Professor, 124
+
+Levanter, east wind, Mediterranean, 71
+
+Leycester, Edward Penrhyn, brother of Mrs. E. Stanley, 76, 81, 95, 246,
+247, 252
+
+Leycester, Hugh, uncle of Mrs. Edward Stanley, 32
+
+Leycester, Kitty, _see_ Mrs. E. Stanley, 15
+
+Leycester, Maria, Mrs. Augustus Hare, 15, 16
+
+Leycester, Oswald, Mrs. E. Stanley's father, 15
+
+Leycester, Ralph, 261
+
+Leycesters of Toft, 15
+
+Leyden, 231, 232
+
+Libraries, Public, 38
+
+Li�ge, 193, 195, 197
+
+Lille, 146
+
+Lillo, fort in Holland, 203
+
+Lind, Jenny, 22
+
+Lindsay, Lady Charlotte, 236, 240
+
+Linois, Comte de, 53
+
+Linz on the Rhine, 192
+
+Lisbon, 72
+
+Lisle, 196
+
+Liverpool, 36, 43, 51
+
+Liverpool, Lord, 87
+
+Llandaff, Dean Vaughan of, 19
+
+Lodi, Battle of, 136
+
+Loja, in Spain, 60
+
+London, 81, 82
+
+Lorich on Rhine, 184
+
+Louis Buonaparte, King of Holland, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Louis, King of Etruria, 50
+
+Louis XIV., 306
+
+Louis XVI., 303
+
+Louis XVIII., 78, 106, 107, 150, 177, 225, 235, 243, 271, 282, 290, 292,
+303-304
+
+Louisa Stanley, _see_ Stanley
+
+Louvel, assassin of the Duke de Berri, 139
+
+Louvre, The, 38, 113, 274, 300
+
+Lowe, Rev. Mr., 223
+
+Lucien Buonaparte, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Lucy Stanley, _see_ Stanley
+
+Lugai, Professor, 232
+
+Lutzen, Battle of, 170
+
+Lyne and Co., Lisbon, 72
+
+Lyons, 40, 42, 43-46, 47
+
+
+Macclesfield, Cheshire, 221
+
+Macdonald, Marshal, Duc de Tarente, 196, 244
+
+Macon, 42
+
+Madrid, 69, 71, 72
+
+Maine, The River, 182
+
+Maison, General, "Brise-Maison," 197
+
+Malaga, Mole of, 57, 61, 62, 64, 68
+
+Malines, Mechlin, 201, 202
+
+Malmaison, 130, 131, 134, 297
+
+Manchester, 85
+
+Marcet, Mrs., 78
+
+Marengo, Battle of, 49, 119
+
+Maria Josepha Holroyd, Lady, _see_ Holroyd and Stanley
+
+Marie Louise, Empress, 74, 240, 242, 281, 284
+
+Marlborough, Duke of, biography by order of Napoleon, 297
+
+Marly, Aqueduct of, 133
+
+Marmont, Marshal, Duc de Raguse, 106, 116-118, 126, 135, 138, 145, 177
+
+Marshals, The, 112, 135, 151, 195, 238, _see_ also under Bessi�res,
+Davoust, Berthier, Clarke, Jourdan, Lefebre, Macdonald, Marmont,
+Mass�na, Moncey, Mortier, Murat, Ney, Soult, Victor
+
+Martin, Mr., 122
+
+Mass�na, Marshal, Duc de Rivoli, 138
+
+Mathew, Father, 21
+
+Matthews, Montague, 37
+
+Maubeuge, 271, 278
+
+Maudesley's engines, 91
+
+Mausthurm, or Mouse Turret, 184
+
+Mayence, 146, 159, 180, 182
+
+McDonald, Captain, 298
+
+Meaux, 145, 153-156
+
+_Medusa_, English frigate, 50
+
+Melbourne, Lord, 19, 86
+
+Melun, 145, 146
+
+"Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, 16
+
+Meteoric stones, presentation sword made from, 93
+
+Metsu, Gabriel, Dutch painter (1615-1658), 38
+
+Metz, 146, 169, 173-175, 180
+
+Mieris, Dutch painter (1635-1681), 38
+
+Milton's mulberry-tree, 40
+
+Minorca, 67, 70
+
+Moncey, Marshal, Duc de Cornegliano, 137-139
+
+Mons, 271-273
+
+Montmartre, 105, 108, 110, 115-117, 175
+
+Montserrat, Lady of, 56
+
+Mont St. Jean, Waterloo, 262
+
+Moors, The, 62
+
+Moreau, General, 76
+
+Moreau, Madame, 76, 78, 90
+
+Morgan, Lady, 232
+
+Morritt, Mr., of Rokeby, 87
+
+Mortier, Marshal, Duc de Treviso, 7, 137, 144
+
+Moscow, 174
+
+Moskowa, Prince de, _see_ Ney
+
+Munchausen, Baron, 117
+
+Murat, Joachim, King of Naples, 138
+
+Murrays, The, 285, 290, 297, 298, 303
+
+Mutiny at Gibraltar, 66
+
+Muxham, near Antwerp, 207
+
+
+N., erasure of Napoleon's initial (1814-1816), 110-300
+
+Naard, Holland, 220
+
+Naples, 55, 71
+
+Naples, the King of, _see_ Murat
+
+Napoleon, 26, 73-83, 107, 111-113, 126, 134, 145, 146, 164, 176, 181,
+186, 187, 196, 199, 205, 206, 221, 223, 235, 242-245, 267-269, 288, 289,
+295
+
+National Schools, 22
+
+Nazareth, 151
+
+Necker, Minister to Louis XVI., 79
+
+Nelson's Pillar, Dublin, 110
+
+Netherlands, 146, 181, 237, 244
+
+New Guinea, 18
+
+New Zealand, 18
+
+Ney, Marshal, Prince de la Moskowa, 137, 299
+
+Nightingale, Miss, 19
+
+Nightingale, Dr., at Alderley, 126
+
+Nivelle Road, 265, 276
+
+"Nobles de Campagne," 241
+
+Norfolk, 20
+
+Normandy, 46
+
+North, Lady Catherine, married Lord Glenbervie, 191
+
+North, Hon. F., 191, 236
+
+North Island of New Zealand, 18
+
+North Sea, 18
+
+Norwich, Bishop of, _see_ E. Stanley, 19-22, 24
+
+Nottingham Castle, 249
+
+Novi, Northern Italy, 50
+
+
+Oldenburg bonnets, 101, 106, 200
+
+Oldenburg, Duchess, Catherine of, 83, 90, 92, 98, 178
+
+"Ologies," Humorous Sketches by E. S., 17
+
+O'Neil, Miss, actress, 286
+
+Orange, Prince of, 208, 233, 254
+
+Orange, Princess of, 231
+
+Ostade, Adrien, Dutch painter, 201
+
+Ostend, 251, 253, 255, 258, 259
+
+
+Palais Royal, 119, 281, 285
+
+Palmer, Mr., 33
+
+Pantin, France, 116
+
+Paris, 29, 31, 33, 34-35, 37-40, 73, 74, 76, 85, 106, 108, 109, 112-118,
+134, 135, 143, 249, 277, 285
+
+Parker, Mrs., of Astle, 137
+
+Parry, Sir Edward, K.C.B., arctic navigator, m. Isabella, daughter of
+Sir John Stanley, 254
+
+Peace, Prince of, _see_ Godoy
+
+"Peacock at Home, The," 17
+
+Penrhos, Holyhead, 10
+
+Perignan, General, 137
+
+Peter the Great, House of, 226
+
+Petit, Madame, French actress, 33
+
+Pevensey, Lord, 248
+
+Pierre Suisse, ancient castle near Lyons, destroyed in the Revolution,
+45
+
+Pisa, 51, 52
+
+Place Buonaparte, Lyons, 43
+
+Place Belle Cour, Lyons, 43
+
+Platoff, Russian General, 89
+
+Poissardes, Havre, 101
+
+Polytechnique, Ecole, _see_ Ecole
+
+Pope Pius VII., 46
+
+Porto Ferraro, Elba, 46-53
+
+Potter, Paul, Dutch animal painter (1625-1654), 201
+
+Praams, Flotilla of, at Havre, intended for the invasion of England, 100
+
+Prussia, Frederick William, King of, 91, 92, 152, 153, 177, 192, 237
+
+Prussia, Louisa, Queen of, 178
+
+Pulteney Hotel, London, 85
+
+
+"Queen," H.M.S, 23
+
+Quiverain frontier, France and Belgium, 278
+
+
+Radnor Mere, at Alderley, 252
+
+Raguse, Duc de, _see_ Marmont
+
+Rambouillet, Seine et Oise, 74
+
+Ramsgate, 249
+
+Raphael, 38, 133
+
+_Rattlesnake_, H.M.S., 18, 23
+
+R�camier, Madame, 33, 126
+
+R�gnaud, St. Jean d'Ang�ly, 119
+
+Reign of Terror, The, 26
+
+Rembrandt, 38, 225
+
+Revolution, The, 27, 35, 48, 126
+
+Rheims, 146, 165, 168
+
+Rhine Castles, 144, 172, 186
+
+Riddel, Captain, 60
+
+Rivoli, Duc de, _see_ Mass�na
+
+Robespierre, Maximilian, 42, 48
+
+Rokeby, Mr. Morritt, of, 87
+
+Romainville, 116
+
+Rome, 55, 71
+
+Rome, King of, sent to Rambouillet, 74;
+ in uniform at three years old, 141;
+ four goat carriages ordered for him, 223
+
+Roncour, Madame, actress, 114
+
+Ronstan the Mameluke, 152
+
+Rotterdam, 223, 234
+
+Rouen, 27, 29, 31, 35, 36, 103, 104, 105, 120, 253
+
+Rowland Hill, _see_ Lord Hill
+
+Royals, the regiment, 67
+
+Rubens, 38, 205, 274
+
+Rue Aux Ours, 36
+
+"Rule Britannia," 99
+
+Russia, Empress of, 307
+
+Russia, Emperor of, _see_ Alexander
+
+
+Saarbruck, 195
+
+Saardam, 228
+
+Saas, 258
+
+St. Andrew, 281
+
+St. Andrew's Hall, Norwich, 21
+
+St. Appollonius, chapel on the Rhine, 188
+
+St. Avold, German Lorraine, 178, 179
+
+St. Bernard's Pass, 49
+
+St. Cloud, special residence of Napoleon, 140, 306
+
+St. Denis, 31, 116, 297, 302, 308
+
+St. Germain, The Terrace, 307
+
+St. Helena, 266, 269
+
+St. James' Street, 84
+
+St. Jean d'Ang�ly, _see_ R�gnaud
+
+St. Jean de Luz, 166
+
+St. John's, Cambridge, 12, 247
+
+St. Lawrence, processional figure, 280
+
+St. Michel, village near Havre, 100
+
+St. Roque, Spain, 65
+
+Salamanca, Battle of, 279
+
+Salvator Rosa, Neapolitan painter (1615-1673), 39
+
+Saumarez, Admiral, 53
+
+Scheldt, 204
+
+Scheveningen, fishing village near the Hague, 233
+
+Schwartzenberg, 74, 145
+
+Scotney Castle, Kent, property of E. Hussey, Esq., 25
+
+Scott, John, 262
+
+Scott, Sir Walter, 15, 262
+
+Scovell, Sir George, 247, 279, 283
+
+Senate, 77, 78
+
+Serinyer, 240
+
+Serurier, General, 137
+
+Seville, 59
+
+Sheffield, Lady (Lady Anne North), 191
+
+Sheffield, John B. Holroyd, First Lord, 14, 74, 75, 112, 235, 236, 240,
+242, 245-248
+
+Sheffield Place, 247
+
+Shute, surgeon, 42
+
+Sicard, Abb�, founder Deaf and Dumb School, Paris, 298
+
+Siddons, Mrs., 33
+
+Skerret, Major-General, 211
+
+Smith, Sydney, 15
+
+Soignies, Forest of, 261, 264
+
+Soissons, 145, 156, 159, 161-163
+
+Sotheby, Mr. and Mrs., 285, 298, 300
+
+Soult, Marshal, Duc de Dalmatie, 74, 138
+
+South Stack Rocks, Holyhead, 17
+
+Spain, 26, 55, 59, 63, 66, 69, 239
+
+Spanish Funds, 239
+
+Sta�l, Auguste de, 127
+
+Sta�l, Madame de, 76, 78, 79, 97, 110-112, 125
+
+Sta�l, Mademoiselle de, 127
+
+Stafford, Lord, 113
+
+Stanley, Sir John, 6th Bart., m. Margaret, daughter and heiress of Hugh
+Owen of Penrhos, 1763, 10
+
+Stanley, Lady Margaret Owen, born 1742, 10
+
+Stanley, Sir John T., 7th Bart., 1st Lord Stanley of Alderley, m. 1796
+Lady Maria Josepha Holroyd, daughter of Lord Sheffield, 15
+
+Stanley, Lady Maria Josepha, 15, 26, 74, 76, 78, 84, 89, 96, 235, 248,
+260, 273, 281, 301
+
+Stanley, Edward, naturalist and ornithologist, son of Sir John Stanley,
+6th Bart.;
+  born 1779;
+  entered St. John's, Cambridge, 1798;
+  wrangler, 1802;
+  Rector of Alderley, 1805 to 1837;
+  Vice-President of British Association for the Advancement of Science, 1836;
+  Bishop of Norwich, 1837;
+  died, 1849, 9-24
+
+Stanley, Mrs. Edward, Kitty, daughter of Rev. Oswald Leycester, of Stoke
+upon Tern, 15, 22, 82
+
+Stanley, Owen, eldest son of Bishop Stanley, 17, 23, 140, 190, 222
+
+Stanley, Charles Edward, 2nd son of _ibid._, 19
+
+Stanley, Arthur Penrhyn, Dean of Westminster, 3rd son of _ibid._, 10,
+19, 23
+
+Stanley, Mary, eldest daughter of Bishop Stanley, 19
+
+Stanley, Catherine, 2nd daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. C. Vaughan, Master of the Temple, and Dean of Llandaff, 19
+
+Stanley, Rianette, daughter of Sir John, 7th Bart., and Lady M. J.
+Stanley, 277
+
+Stanley, Lucy, 2nd daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. Captain Marcus Hare, R.N., 264, 305
+
+Stanley, Louisa Dorothea, 3rd daughter of _ibid._, 249, 250, 293, 297,
+305
+
+Stanley, Isabella, 4th daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. 1826 Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., Arctic Navigator, 254, 283
+
+Stanley, Louisa, daughter of Sir John T. Stanley, 6th Bart., and
+Margaret Owen of Penrhos: m. 1802 Sir Baldwin Leighton, Bart., 68
+
+Stanley, Lady Charlotte, daughter of 13th Earl of Derby;
+ m. 1823 Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn, 246
+
+Stanmer Park, property of Earl of Chichester, 243-244
+
+Stockholm, 170
+
+Stoke-upon-Tern, Mrs. E. Stanley's early home, 15, 115
+
+Strasburg, 182
+
+Stuart, Sir Charles, afterwards Lord Stuart de Rothesay, 105, 112, 113,
+120-122, 160
+
+Swedenborg, 194
+
+Sydney, 18
+
+Sydney, Lord, 86
+
+
+Tadmor, Palmyra, 152
+
+Talleyrand-Perigord, Prince de Benevento, French statesman and
+diplomatist, 1754-1838, Ambassador to Great Britain (1830), 237
+
+Talma, French tragic actor, 32, 114, 240, 286-7
+
+Tangiers, 60
+
+Tarentum, Duc de, _see_ Macdonald
+
+Tarleton and Rigge, 43
+
+_Tartana_, Mediterranean vessel, 57
+
+Tasmania, 19
+
+Temple, Paris prison, 31
+
+Teniers, Dutch painter, 201
+
+Tennant, Mr., 92, 93
+
+_Terror_, H.M.S., 18
+
+Tets von Grondam, Mdme., 229
+
+Tezart, Paris banker, 36
+
+Theatres, Paris, 33, 39
+
+Thuilleries, 37, 113, 121, 135, 304, 306
+
+Titian, painter, 38
+
+Toft Hall, Knutsford, 15
+
+Toledo, 59
+
+Tomkinson, Miss, 279
+
+Toulon, 70
+
+Tousein, Russian General, 177
+
+Towers, round towers at Laon, 162
+
+Trappe, La, Monk of, soldier in Napoleon's army, 170
+
+Treaty of Paris, 146
+
+Trechschuyt, Dutch barge, 225
+
+Treviso, Duc de, _see_ Mortier
+
+Trianon, 140, 306
+
+Troyes, Champagne, 41
+
+Trueman, Mr., 259
+
+Tunno, Miss, a brilliant member of society, lived at Taplow Lodge, 76,
+78, 85
+
+Turin, 49
+
+
+Union of England with Ireland and Scotland, Napoleon's views, 241
+
+Utrecht, 221, 224, 228
+
+
+Valencia, Spain, 71
+
+Valenciennes, 278, 282
+
+Vandyck, 38, 205, 206
+
+Vauchamps, 145
+
+Vaughan, Master of the Temple and Dean of Llandaff, 19
+
+Vaughan, Mrs, _see_ Catherine Stanley, 19
+
+Vauxhall, 30, 33
+
+Vend�me, Colonne, 110
+
+Vend�me Place, 110, 292
+
+Venice, 240
+
+Venice preserved, 285
+
+Ventas, Spanish inns, 58, 62, 65
+
+Venus de Medici, 114, 132
+
+Verdun, 146, 168, 169
+
+Vernet, Antoine Claude, painter (1758-1836), 38
+
+Veronese, Paul, 38
+
+Versailles, 39, 140, 305
+
+Vetey Malaga, 58
+
+Vetturino travelling, 25, 40, 47, 49
+
+Victor, Marshal, Duc de Belluno, 138, 145
+
+Vienna, Congress of, 112, 235, 237
+
+Villejuif, near Paris, 149
+
+Vincennes, Ch�teau de, 134
+
+Vittoria, Panorama of, 82
+
+Vivienne, Rue de, 32, 35
+
+
+Waal, river, Holland, 220
+
+Wagram, Prince de, _see_ Berthier
+
+Walcheren, 199, 203, 243
+
+Wales, Princess of, 177
+
+Waterloo, 133, 199, 246, 247, 260, 264, 265, 270, 275, 279
+
+Waterloo, Panorama of, by Barker, 248
+
+Wellington, Lord, _see_ Duke of
+
+Wellington, Duke of, 75, 263, 278, 280, 283, 291
+
+Wellington Tree, The, 268
+
+White's Club, 93, 95
+
+Wilberforce, William, 128
+
+Wilbraham, Mr., of Delamere Lodge, 285
+
+Wilson, Sir Robert, 294
+
+Windlesham, Surrey, 12
+
+Winnington, Cheshire, property of Sir John Stanley, 132
+
+Winzengerode, General, 145, 159
+
+Woolwich, 91
+
+Wurtemberg, Crown Prince of, 116
+
+Wurtemberg, Prince Eugene of, 116
+
+
+Yankies, 238
+
+Yarmouth, Lord, 242
+
+Yorke, Lady Elizabeth, 112
+
+
+UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, WOKING AND LONDON.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Maria Leycester, m. 1829 Rev. Augustus Hare.
+
+[2] "Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, adopted son of Mrs.
+Augustus Hare (Maria Leycester).
+
+[3] E. Hussey, of Scotney Castle, Kent. He died in 1817 and left his
+only son Edward (married, 1853, Henrietta Clive, daughter of Baroness
+Windsor) to the guardianship of Edward Stanley.
+
+[4] Madame R�camier, famous French beauty, 1777-1849.
+
+[5] Pius VII., made Pope in 1800.
+
+[6] General Jourdan, 1762-1833, Marshal. He fought in the Peninsular
+War, and rallied to Napoleon during the Hundred Days, but later on
+served the Bourbons and was made Governor of the H�tel des Invalides
+under Louis Philippe.
+
+[7] General Desaix; killed at Marengo, 1800.
+
+[8] Louis, King of Etruria, son of Ferdinand, Duke of Parma married
+Mary, Infanta of Spain; died 1803.
+
+[9] Comte de Linois, 1761-1848. On June 13, 1801, he, with three ships,
+defeated six British ships in Algeciras Bay, and being protected by the
+Spanish batteries, he forced the British admiral to retreat, leaving the
+_Hannibal_ in possession of the enemy. In recognition of this triumph
+Linois received a sword of honour from Napoleon. The English fleet
+avenged this disaster on July 12, 1801, when the Spanish and French
+squadrons set out from Cadiz with the captured _Hannibal_ and Admiral
+Saumarez forced the combined fleets to retire shattered into harbour
+again.
+
+[10] The vessel in which Edward Stanley's elder brother John had made
+his Icelandic Expedition, 1788.
+
+[11] A famous image of the Virgin, said to have been found A.D. 880 on a
+mountain of Catalonia, and in honour of which a magnificent church was
+built by Philip II. and Philip III. of Spain.
+
+[12] _Tartana_--a vessel peculiar to the Mediterranean.
+
+[13] Emanuel Godoy, favourite Minister of Charles IV. of Spain.
+
+[14] H.R.H. Edward, Duke of Kent; appointed Governor of Gibraltar, 1802.
+In order to establish strict discipline in the garrison, which he found
+in a very demoralised state, he issued a general order forbidding any
+private soldiers to enter the wine shops, half of which he closed at a
+personal sacrifice of �4,000 a year in licensing fees. In consequence, a
+mutiny broke out on Christmas Eve, 1802. Though the mutiny was quelled,
+the Home Government did not support the Duke, who was recalled in March,
+1803.
+
+[15] Edward Stanley's sister, Louisa; m., November, 1802, to Sir Baldwin
+Leighton, Bart., of Loton, Shropshire.
+
+[16] Godoy (Emanuel--b. 1767, d. 1851), Prince of Peace. Prime Minister
+to Charles IV. of Spain.
+
+[17] Marshal Viscount Beresford, b. 1770, d. 1854, General in the
+English Army. He reorganised the Portuguese army in the Peninsular War.
+
+[18] Sir Henry Clinton, General; d. 1829.
+
+[19] Sir William Clinton, General, 1769-1854; married Louisa, second
+daughter of Lord Sheffield.
+
+[20] On April 10th Lord Wellington fought the Battle of Toulouse against
+Soult.
+
+[21] Madame Moreau, widow of General Moreau, daughter of General Hulot,
+and a friend of the Empress Jos�phine. Since the death of the General,
+who was killed at the battle of Dresden, in 1813, the Emperor Alexander
+had given Mme. Moreau a pension of 100,000 francs a year in recognition
+of her husband's services; and in 1814 Louis XVIII. gave her the rank of
+"Mar�chale de France."
+
+[22] Catherine Fanshawe, poetess, and friend of most of the literary
+people in London of her day.
+
+[23] Mrs. Marcet, b. 1785, a native of Geneva (_n�e_ Halduriand). Well
+known for her economic and scientific works.
+
+[24] Madame de Sta�l, daughter of Louis XVI.'s Minister Necker, b. 1766,
+d. 1817. Married 1786 to the Baron de Sta�l, Swedish Minister to France.
+She had been exiled from France by Napoleon on account of her books,
+"Corinne" and "L'Allemagne."
+
+[25] Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829; began life as a Cornish miner. He
+became a distinguished chemist and scientist.
+
+[26] Daughter of C. Kerr, Esq., of Kelso, and widow of S. Apreece, Esq.,
+married Sir Humphry Davy, 1812.
+
+[27] Second Earl of Clancarty, 1767-1837. Ambassador to the Netherlands
+
+[28] The Emperor Alexander I. of Russia, 1777-1825.
+
+[29] Lucien, second brother of the Emperor Napoleon, 1775-1840.
+
+[30] Catherine, Grand Duchess of Russia, sister of the Emperor Alexander
+I., won golden opinions in England. "She was very clever, graceful, and
+elegant, with most pleasing manners, and spoke English well." Creevey
+says that the Emperor was much indebted to his sister, the Duchess of
+Oldenburg, for "keeping him in the course by her judicious interposition
+and observations." In 1808 Napoleon had wished for her as his bride,
+but, as she says in a letter to her brother, the Czar, "her heart would
+break as the intended wife of Napoleon before she could reach the limits
+of his usurped dominions, and she cannot but consider as frightfully
+ominous this offer of marriage from an Imperial Assassin to the daughter
+and grand-daughter of two assassinated Emperors" (see "Letters of Two
+Brothers," by Lady G. Ramsden). The marriage of the Grand Duchess
+Catherine to the Duke of Oldenburg was hastily arranged to enable her to
+escape the alliance. The Duke died in 1812, and she afterwards married
+her cousin, the Crown Prince of Wurtemberg, to whom she had been
+attached in early youth. The Duchess attracted great attention by
+wearing a large bonnet, which afterwards became the fashion and was
+called after her.
+
+[31] Lady Caroline, daughter of the Earl of Bessborough, wife of Hon.
+William Lamb, afterwards Lord Melbourne, authoress of "Glenarvon," &c.
+
+[32] Mr. Morritt, of Rokeby.
+
+[33] Lord Liverpool, 1770-1828. Prime Minister in 1815.
+
+[34] Platoff, 1716-1818, Russian General.
+
+[35] Frederick William III.
+
+[36] The Duchess had been very fond of music, but since the death of her
+husband it had affected her so deeply that she feared breaking down on
+any public occasion.
+
+[37] Rowland Hill. General Lord Hill, 1772-1842; distinguished in the
+Peninsular War.
+
+[38] The Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.
+
+[39] "After the Restoration of the Bourbons several duels took place for
+the most frivolous causes. Duels were fought even by night. The officers
+of the Swiss guards were constantly measuring swords with the officers
+of the old 'Garde Imp�riale'" (Gronow's Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 22).
+
+[40] The Colonne Vend�me. This stood on the site of a statue to Louis
+XIV. which had been melted down at the Revolution. It was made of
+Austrian cannon taken during the years from 1806 to 1810.
+
+[42] Madame de Sta�l had only returned to France after her long exile a
+few weeks after Napoleon's abdication. Her rooms were in the H�tel de
+Tamerzan, 105, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain.
+
+[42] Stuart, Sir Charles, 1779-1845. Eldest son of Sir C. Stuart,
+General, and Louisa, daughter and co-heiress of Lord Vere Bertie.
+Minister at the Hague and Ambassador at Paris, and later on at St.
+Petersburg. British Envoy at the Congress of Vienna. Created Baron
+Stuart de Rothesay 1841. Married, 1816, Lady Elizabeth Yorke, third
+daughter of third Earl of Hardwicke. Gronow gives a more favourable
+account of him, "One of the most popular Ambassadors Great Britain ever
+sent to Paris."
+
+[43] Under the Treaty of Paris France had been allowed to keep the Art
+Treasures taken by Napoleon.
+
+[44] Talma, the celebrated tragic actor, 1763-1826.
+
+[45] On March 30th the Allies marched on Paris. They attacked in three
+divisions--the Silesian army on the side of Montmartre, Prince Eugene of
+Wurtemberg and Barclay de Tolly by Pantin and Romainville, the Crown
+Prince of Wurtemberg by Vincennes and Charenton. Marmont surrendered the
+same day.
+
+[46] R�gnaud St. Jean d'Ang�ly, 1762-1819.
+
+[47] Abai Reny Just Haiiy, 1743-1822.
+
+[48] Dum�ril, naturalist and professor.
+
+[49] Marmont, 1774-1852, Duc de Raguse. The defence of Paris had been
+left in his hands by Napoleon, and his surrender to the Allies was the
+finishing stroke which forced Napoleon to abdicate.
+
+[50] Lafayette, 1757-1834, Liberal general and politician.
+
+[51] Madame R�camier, 1777-1849, a famous beauty. She had held a "salon"
+at Paris in the early days of the Empire, but had been exiled in 1811
+and had just returned (June, 1814).
+
+[52] Auguste de Sta�l, 1790-1827.
+
+[53] Mademoiselle de Sta�l, married the Duc de Broglie.
+
+[54] Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle and Rector of St. George's, Hanover
+Square; d. 1844.
+
+[55] William Wilberforce, 1759-1833; distinguished among the promoters
+of Negro Emancipation and the Abolition of the Slave Trade.
+
+[56] Dumolard, 1766-1820; a French politician, a prominent figure in the
+Chamber of Representatives under the first Restoration.
+
+[57] Eug�ne Beauharnais, 1780-1824, Viceroy of Italy, 1805-15. Son of
+Jos�phine by her first marriage with the Vicomte de Beauharnais.
+
+[58] After the Second Restoration Prince Eug�ne Beauharnais sold
+Malmaison and removed its gallery of pictures to Munich.
+
+[59] Duc d'Enghien, 1772-1804, son of the Duc de Bourbon. Shot at
+Vincennes by order of Napoleon when First Consul, under the pretext that
+he had conspired against him.
+
+[60] Marmont lost his arm at the battle of Salamanca in 1812.
+
+[61] Jourdan, General, 1762-1833.
+
+[62] Duc de Treviso, Marshal Mortier, 1768-1835.
+
+[63] Duc de Conegliano, Marshal Moncey, 1754-1842. He defended the walls
+of Paris as Major-General of the National Guard and laid down his arms
+only after the Capitulation was signed.
+
+[64] Serurier, General, 1742-1819.
+
+[65] Perignan, General, 1754-1819.
+
+[66] Ney, Prince de la Moskowa, Duc d'Elchingen, 1769-1815, "Le Brave
+des Braves." He swore allegiance to Louis XVIII., but returned to
+Napoleon in 1815, fought under him at Waterloo, and was shot for treason
+under the Second Restoration.
+
+[67] Duc d'Istria, Bessi�res, Commander of the Old Guard.
+
+[68] Davoust, Prince d'Eckmuhl. In 1814 the unfortunate city of Hamburg
+was still suffering under the unrelenting severity of Davoust, who had
+appointed a commission having the power of condemning to death all
+persons who used inflammatory speeches to exasperate the soldiers or the
+inhabitants.
+
+[69] Victor, Duc de Belluno, 1764-1841.
+
+[70] Lefebre, Duc de Dantzig, 1755-1820.
+
+[71] Berthier, Prince de Wagram, 1753-1815, Chief of the Staff. A close
+friend of Napoleon from 1796 onwards. He escaped to Bamberg in 1815 in
+hopes of remaining neutral, but was killed there by the emissaries of a
+secret society.
+
+[72] Murat, 1778-1815, King of Naples and husband of Caroline Bonaparte.
+He had concluded a treaty with Austria against Napoleon in January,
+1814. He was shot in Calabria in 1815.
+
+[73] Mass�na, Duc de Rivoli, 1758-1817. "The favoured child of victory."
+
+[74] Soult, Duc de Dalmatie, 1769-1861. He decided the victory of
+Austerlitz.
+
+[75] Edridge, portrait painter, 1769-1821.
+
+[76] Duke de Berri, second son of the Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles
+X., 1778-1820. He married Caroline of Naples, and was the father of the
+Comte de Chambord. He was assassinated by Louvel on the steps of the
+Opera House at Paris in 1820.
+
+[77] General Du Pont, 1759-1838.
+
+[78] Eldest son of Edward Stanley, b. 1811.
+
+[79] Soissons had been taken in February by the Russians under
+Winzengerode.
+
+[80] E. D. Davenport, Esq., of Capesthorne, Cheshire, 1778-1847.
+
+[81] May, 1813.
+
+[82] October, 1813.
+
+[83] Subsequent accounts which I heard proved that this second account
+was nearer the truth than the first (E. Stanley).
+
+[84] Queen Louise, _n�e_ Princess of Mecklenburg Strelitz.
+
+[85] Grand Duke Constantine, brother of Czar Alexander, 1779-1831.
+
+[86] Lady Catherine North, sister of Lady Sheffield, married 1786,
+Sylvester Douglas, Lord Glenbervie.
+
+[87] Hon. F. North, fifth Earl of Guilford.
+
+[88] Marshal Macdonald, 1765-1840.
+
+[89] General Maison, 1771-1840, one of the most faithful of Napoleon's
+generals.
+
+[90] This disastrous expedition to attack Antwerp sailed under the Earl
+of Chatham, July 20, 1809, and ended in total failure. The troops were
+withdrawn in December, 1809.
+
+[91] Sir Thomas Graham, 1748-1843, afterwards Lord Lynedoch.
+
+[92] Louis Buonaparte, third brother of Napoleon, 1778-1846; King of
+Holland, 1806-1813.
+
+[93] A novel by Lady Morgan.
+
+[94] F. North, afterwards 5th Earl of Guilford.
+
+[95] A member of the Directory.
+
+[96] In the neighbourhood of Lyons.
+
+[97] The defeat of the British Flotilla by the Americans in September,
+1814.
+
+[98] Ferdinand VII., b. 1784, d. 1833.
+
+[99] Daughter of the Duke of Saxe Coburg; married in 1796 to the Grand
+Duke Constantine of Russia.
+
+[100] Daughter of the second Earl of Guilford: married, 1800, John, son
+of Earl of Balcarres; d. 1849.
+
+[101] Son of Lord Glenbervie, and nephew of Lord Sheffield.
+
+[102] General Clarke, 1765-1818. He took part in the negotiations for
+the Treaty of Campo Formio in 1797. He was made Duc de Feltre for his
+services against the English at Walcheren. He accepted service under
+Louis XVIII., and was his Minister of War, 1815-1816.
+
+[103] Marshal Macdonald (made Duc de Tarente after the battle of Wagram,
+1809), b. 1765, d. 1840. He did not join Napoleon during the Hundred
+Days, but refused employment under the King, and served only as a simple
+soldier in the National Guard.
+
+[104] Edward Leycester had inherited in December, 1815, the fortune of
+his cousin, Lady Penrhyn, who directed in her will that he should assume
+the name of Penrhyn. He married, in 1823, Lady Charlotte Stanley,
+daughter of the 14th Earl of Derby.
+
+[105] Lord Pevensey, son of Earl of Sheffield.
+
+[106] Panorama by Barker, shown in London.
+
+[107] Married Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., the Arctic navigator, 1826.
+
+[108] Allusions to the characters in "Guy Mannering."
+
+[109] John Scott, painter, 1774-1828.
+
+[110] Hougoumont was occupied by Byng's Brigade, and resisted the
+repeated attacks of the French throughout the battle.
+
+[111] Napoleon's army, on the day of Waterloo, occupied the plateau of
+La Belle Alliance.
+
+[112] A farm occupied by the King's German Legion under Major Baring;
+after a gallant resistance captured by the French at 4 o'clock on June
+18th.
+
+[113] Wellington watched the battle from the shade of an elm-tree, which
+was afterwards sold to an Englishman, who made the wood into boxes and
+sold them as memorials.
+
+[114] General Bertrand, 1773-1844; fought in Egypt and distinguished
+himself at Austerlitz and in the campaigns of Wagram and Moscow. He
+followed Napoleon to Elba and to St. Helena.
+
+[115] Inn at Alderley.
+
+[116] Sir George Scovell, 1774-1861, General. He fought in the Peninsula
+and at Waterloo.
+
+[117] Sir Lowry Cole, second son of first Earl of Enniskillen, General
+of 4th Division at the Battle of Salamanca. He received the thanks of
+both Houses of Parliament for his gallant services in the Peninsula.
+Commanded 6th Division at Waterloo.
+
+[118] Comte d'Artois, afterwards King Charles X.
+
+[119] Daughter of Louis XVI.
+
+[120] Caroline of Naples.
+
+[121] Michael Bruce, one of the Englishmen who helped Lavalette to
+escape from prison. He was known as Lavalette's Bruce. He had previously
+tried to save Ney. Major-General Wilson and Captain Hutchinson were also
+concerned in Lavalette's escape.
+
+[122] Denon (1747-1825), a member of the Acad�mic de Peinture. He made
+sketches in Egypt for Napoleon, quietly finishing them on the
+battlefield. He directed the Emperor what objects of art he should take
+from various countries to enrich the Louvre. Napoleon made him
+Directeur-G�n�ral of Museums.
+
+[123] Abb� Roch Ambroise Sicard, founder of deaf and dumb school at
+Paris, 1742-1822.
+
+[124] Lab�doy�re, General (1786-1815). Shot at Grenelle, 1815.
+
+[125] French poet and Academician, 1738-1813.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
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+  The Project Gutenberg eBook of Before And After Waterloo, by Edward Stanley.
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Before and after Waterloo
+       Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802;1814;1814)
+
+Author: Edward Stanley
+
+Editor: Jane H. Adeane And Maud Grenfell
+
+Release Date: November 29, 2009 [EBook #30564]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images available at Biblioth�que nationale
+de France (http://gallica.bnf.fr) and The Internet Archive
+(http://www.archive.org).
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<hr />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 348px;">
+<a name="cover" id="cover"></a>
+<a href="images/cover.jpg">
+<img src="images/cover_th.jpg" width="348" height="550" alt="book cover" /></a>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO</h3>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 373px;">
+<a name="image001" id="image001"></a>
+<a href="images/001.jpg">
+<img src="images/001_th.jpg" width="373" height="550" alt="Le courier du Rhin perd tout en revenant de la foire de
+Leipsig." /></a>
+</div>
+
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_1" id="page_1">[1]</a></span></p>
+
+<h1 class="top15">BEFORE AND AFTER<br />WATERLOO</h1>
+
+<h2>LETTERS</h2>
+
+<p class="c">FROM</p>
+
+<h2>EDWARD STANLEY</h2>
+
+<p class="c">SOMETIME BISHOP OF NORWICH</p>
+
+<h3 class="top5">(1802; 1814; 1816)</h3>
+
+<p class="c top15">EDITED BY JANE H. ADEANE AND MAUD GRENFELL</p>
+
+<p class="c top15"><span class="smcap">LONDON</span><br />
+T. FISHER UNWIN<br />
+<span class="smcap">ADELPHI TERRACE</span><br />
+<span class="smcap">MCMVII</span></p>
+
+<p class="c top15"><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_2" id="page_2">[2]</a></span>
+(<i>All rights reserved.</i>)
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_3" id="page_3">[3]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="c top15">ECHOES OF PAST DAYS</p>
+
+<p class="c">AT</p>
+
+<p class="c">ALDERLEY RECTORY
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_4" id="page_4">[4]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 384px;">
+<a name="image002" id="image002"></a>
+<a href="images/002.jpg">
+<img src="images/002_th.jpg" width="384" height="550" alt="Edward Stanley D.D.
+Bishop of Norwich
+n. 1780 ob. 1849" title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_5" id="page_5">[5]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3>CONTENTS</h3>
+<table summary="toc"
+cellpadding="5"
+cellspacing="0"
+style="font-weight:800;font-size:90%;">
+<tr><td>&nbsp;</td><td align="right"><span class="smcap">page</span></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td>BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_9">9</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_I"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER I</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_II"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER II</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_III"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER III</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_97">97</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER IV</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_144">144</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_V"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER V</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>THE LOW COUNTRIES</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_199">199</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER VI</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>THE WATERLOO YEAR</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_235">235</a></td></tr>
+
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="center" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII"><br />&nbsp;CHAPTER VII</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td>AFTER WATERLOO</td><td align="right"><a href="#page_247">247</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#Index"><br />&nbsp;INDEX</a></td><td align="right"><a href="#page_309">309</a></td></tr>
+<tr><td colspan="2" align="left" style="line-height:30px;"><a href="#FOOTNOTES">FOOTNOTES</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="note">
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_6" id="page_6">[6]</a></span>
+<i>The originals of most of the letters now published are, with the
+drawings that illustrate them, at Llanfawr, Holyhead.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Some extracts from these letters have already appeared in the "Early
+Married Life of Maria Josepha, Lady Stanley," but are here inserted
+again by kind permission of Messrs. Longman, and complete Bishop
+Stanley's correspondence.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>Portions of letters quoted in Dean Stanley's volume, "Edward and
+Catherine Stanley," have also been used with Messrs. Murray's consent.</i></p>
+
+<p><i>In addition to the MSS. at Llanfawr, Lord Stanley of Alderley has
+kindly contributed some original letters in his possession.</i></p>
+
+<p class="r"><i>J.H.A.</i></p>
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_7" id="page_7">[7]</a></span></p>
+</div>
+
+
+<h3>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h3>
+<table class="click"
+summary="click">
+<tr><td>Click on the illustrations to view them full-size.<br />(note of transcriber.)</td></tr></table>
+
+<table summary="illustrations"
+cellpadding="3"
+cellspacing="0"
+style="font-size:90%;
+font-weight:800;">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image001">"LE COURIER DU RHIN"</a></td>
+<td colspan="2" align="right"><i>Frontispiece</i></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Sketch brought to England 1814 by General Scott of Thorpe,<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; one of the detenus in France for ten years after the rupture<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; of the Peache of Amiens, mentioned page <a href="#page_73">73.</a></i></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image002">BISHOP STANLEY</a></td>
+<td align="center"><i>To face page</i></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_2">2</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; By John Linnell. From a drawing in the possession of<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Canon J. Hugh Way, Henbury.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image010">MARGARET OWEN, LADY STANLEY</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_10">10</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; From a miniature in the possession of Lady Reade-Carreglwyd,<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Anglesey.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image017">"FLIGHT OF INTELLECT"</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_17">17</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Humorous sketch by E. Stanley.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image025">EDWARD STANLEY, 1800</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_25">25</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; By P. Green. The original in the possession of Lord Stanley<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; of Alderley, at Penrhos, Anglesey.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image031">THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_31">31</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Sketch by E. Stanley, 1802.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image043">THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SA�NE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_43">43</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Sketch by E. Stanley,</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image073">LORD SHEFFIELD</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_73">73</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; By Sir Joshua Reynolds, P.R.A. From an engraving in the<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; possession of J.H. Adeane, Lanfavar, Holyhead.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image082">KITTY LEYCESTER, MRS. EDWARD STANLEY</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_82">82</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; From a drawing by H. Edridge, A.R.A., at Alderley Park,<br />
+&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; Cheshire.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image108">PARIS, 1814. OLD BRIDGE AND CH�TELET</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_108">108</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. Stanley.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image115">PARIS, LA POMPE, NOTRE DAME</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_115">115</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image141">PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_141">141</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image143">THE CATACOMBS, PARIS</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_143">143</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image161">LAON. HOUSES AND TOWER, 1814</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_161">161</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image164">BERRY AU BAC</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_164">164</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_8" id="page_8">[8]</a></span><a href="#image168">VERDUN. BRIDGE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_168">168</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. Stanley.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image193">FRENCH DILIGENCE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_193">193</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image199">DUTCH SHIPS</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_199">199</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image219">DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_219">219</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image223">GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_223">223</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image226">DUTCH TABLE D'HOTE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_226">226</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image228">OLD HOUSES, SAARDAM</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_228">228</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image230">PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_230">230</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image233">DUTCH FISHERMEN</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_233">233</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image234">DUTCH CARRIAGE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_234">234</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image247">CORN MILLS AT VERNON</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_247">247</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image260">FRENCH CABRIOLET</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_260">260</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image263">HOUGOUMONT</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_263">263</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image265">INTERIOR OF HOUGOUMONT</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_265">265</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image267">LA BELLE ALLIANCE</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_267">267</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image270">WATERLOO</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_270">270</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image274">GHENT. ST. NICHOLAS</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_274">274</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image276">PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_276">276</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image300">PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_300">300</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image306">THE GREAT GREEN COACH</a></td>
+<td align="center">"</td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_306">306</a></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="4"><i>&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; E. S.</i></td></tr>
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2"><a href="#image308">ALDERLEY RECTORY</a></td>
+<td align="right"><i>page&nbsp; &nbsp; </i></td>
+<td align="right"><a href="#page_308">308</a></td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_9" id="page_9">[9]</a></span></p>
+<h3>BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY</h3>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">T</span><b>HE</b>
+letters which are collected in this volume were written from abroad
+during the opening years of the nineteenth century, at three different
+periods: after the Peace of Amiens in 1802 and 1803, after the Peace of
+Paris in 1814, and in the year following Waterloo, June, 1816.</p>
+
+<p>The writer, Edward Stanley, was for thirty-three years an active country
+clergyman, and for twelve years more a no less active bishop, at a time
+when such activity was uncommon, though not so rare as is sometimes now
+supposed.</p>
+
+<p>Although a member of one of the oldest Cheshire families, he did not
+share the opinions of his county neighbours on public questions, and his
+voice was fearlessly raised on behalf of causes which are now
+triumphant, and against abuses which are now forgotten, but which
+acutely needed champions and reformers a hundred years ago.</p>
+
+<p>His foreign journeys, and more especially the first of them, had a large
+share in determining the opinions which he afterwards maintained against
+great opposition from many of his own class and profession. The sight of
+France still smarting under the effects of the Reign of Terror, and of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_10" id="page_10">[10]</a></span>
+other countries still sunk in Medi�valism, helped to make him a Liberal
+with "a passion for reform and improvement, but without a passion for
+destruction."</p>
+
+<p>He was born in 1779, the second son and youngest child of Sir John
+Stanley, the Squire of Alderley in Cheshire, and of his wife Margaret
+Owen (the Welsh heiress of Penrhos in Holyhead Island), who was one of
+the "seven lovely Peggies," well known in Anglesey society in the middle
+of the eighteenth century.</p>
+
+<p>The pictures of Edward Stanley and his mother, which still hang on the
+walls of her Anglesey home, show that he inherited the brilliant Welsh
+colouring, marked eyebrows and flashing dark eyes that gave force as
+well as beauty to her face. From her, too, came the romantic Celtic
+imagination and fiery energy which enabled him to find interests
+everywhere, and to make his mark in a career which was not the one he
+would have chosen.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 361px;">
+<a name="image010" id="image010"></a>
+<a href="images/010.jpg">
+<img src="images/010_th.jpg" width="361" height="550" alt="Margaret Owen, Lady Stanley.
+n. 1742 ob. 1816." title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>"In early years" (so his son the Dean of Westminster records) "he had
+acquired a passion for the sea, which he cherished down to the time of
+his entrance at college, and which never left him through life. It first
+originated, as he believed, in the delight which he experienced, when
+between three and four years of age, on a visit to the seaport of
+Weymouth; and long afterwards he retained a vivid recollection of the
+point where he caught the first sight of a ship, and shed tears because
+he was not allowed to go on board. So strongly was he possessed by the
+feeling thus acquired, that as a <span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_11" id="page_11">[11]</a></span> child he used to leave his bed and
+sleep on the shelf of a wardrobe, for the pleasure of imagining himself
+in a berth on board a man-of-war.... The passion was overruled by
+circumstances beyond his control, but it gave a colour to his whole
+after-life. He never ceased to retain a keen interest in everything
+relating to the navy.... He seemed instinctively to know the history,
+character, and state of every ship and every officer in the service. Old
+naval captains were often astonished at finding in him a more accurate
+knowledge than their own of when, where, how, and under whom, such and
+such vessels had been employed. The stories of begging impostors
+professing to be shipwrecked seamen were detected at once by his
+cross-examinations. The sight of a ship, the society of sailors, the
+embarkation on a voyage, were always sufficient to inspirit and delight
+him wherever he might be."</p>
+
+<p>His life, when at his mother's home on the Welsh coast, only increased
+this liking, and till he went to Cambridge in 1798 his education had not
+been calculated to prepare him for a clerical life. He never received
+any instruction in classics; of Greek and Latin and mathematics he knew
+nothing, and owing to his schools and tutors being constantly changed,
+his general knowledge was of a desultory sort.</p>
+
+<p>His force of character, great perseverance and ambition to excel are
+shown in the strenuous manner in which he overcame all these obstacles,
+and at the close of his college career at St. John's, <span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_12" id="page_12">[12]</a></span>Cambridge, became
+a wrangler in the Mathematical Tripos of 1802.</p>
+
+<p>After a year passed in foreign travel Edward Stanley returned home at
+his brother's request, and took command of the Alderley Volunteers&mdash;a
+corps of defence raised by him on the family estate in expectation of a
+French invasion.</p>
+
+<p>In 1803 he was ordained and became curate of Windlesham, in Surrey.
+There he remained until he was presented by his father in 1805 to the
+living of Alderley, where he threw himself enthusiastically into his
+work.</p>
+
+<p>Alderley parish had long been neglected, and there was plenty of scope
+for the young Rector.</p>
+
+<p>Before he came, the clerk used to go to the churchyard stile to see
+whether there were any more coming to church, for there were seldom
+enough to make a congregation, but before Edward Stanley left, his
+parish was one of the best organised of the day. He set on foot schemes
+of education throughout the county as well as at Alderley, and was
+foremost in all reforms.</p>
+
+<p>The Chancellor of the diocese wrote of him: "He inherited from his
+family strong Whig principles, which he always retained, and he never
+shrank from advocating those maxims of toleration which at that time
+formed the chief watchwords of the Whig party."</p>
+
+<p>He was the first who distinctly saw and boldly advocated the advantages
+of general education for the people, and set the example of the extent
+to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_13" id="page_13">[13]</a></span> which general knowledge might be communicated in a parochial school.</p>
+
+<p>"To analyse the actual effects of his ministrations on the people would
+be difficult, ... but the general result was what might have been
+expected. Dissent was all but extinguished. The church was filled, the
+communicants many."</p>
+
+<p>He helped to found a Clerical Society, which promoted friendly
+intercourse with clergy holding various views, and was never afraid of
+avowing his opinions on subjects he thought vital, lest he should in
+consequence become unpopular.</p>
+
+<p>He grudged no trouble about anything he undertook, and the people
+rejoiced when they heard "the short, quick tramp of his horse's feet as
+he went galloping up their lanes." The sick were visited and cheered,
+and the children kindly cared for in and out of school.</p>
+
+<p>It was said of him that "whenever there was a drunken fight in the
+village and he knew of it, he would always come out to stop it&mdash;there
+was such a spirit in him."</p>
+
+<p>Tidings were once brought to him of a riotous crowd, which had assembled
+to witness a desperate prize fight, adjourned to the outskirts of his
+parish, and which the respectable inhabitants were unable to disperse.
+"The whole field" (so one of the humbler neighbours represented it) "was
+filled and all the trees round about, when in about a quarter of an hour
+I saw the Rector coming up the road on his little black horse as quick
+as lightning, and<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_14" id="page_14">[14]</a></span> I trembled for fear they should harm him. He rode
+into the field and just looked round as if he thought the same, to see
+who there was that would be on his side. But it was not needed; he rode
+into the midst of the crowd and in one moment it was all over. There was
+a great calm; the blows stopped; it was as if they would all have wished
+to cover themselves up in the earth. All from the trees they dropped
+down directly. No one said a word and all went away humbled."</p>
+
+<p>The next day the Rector sent for the two men, not to scold them, but to
+speak to them, and sent them each away with a Bible. The effect on the
+neighbourhood was very great, and put a stop to the practice which had
+been for some time prevalent in the adjacent districts.</p>
+
+<p>His influence was increased by his early knowledge of the people, and by
+the long connection of his family with the place.</p>
+
+<p>Two years after Edward had accepted the incumbency, his father died in
+London, but he had long before given up living in Cheshire, and Alderley
+Park had been occupied at his desire by his eldest son, afterwards Sir
+John, who had made his home there since his marriage in 1796.</p>
+
+<p>Both the Stanley brothers married remarkable women. Lady Maria Josepha
+Holroyd, Sir John's wife, was the elder daughter of the first Lord
+Sheffield, the friend and biographer of Gibbon, and her strong
+personality impressed every one who met her.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_15" id="page_15">[15]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Catherine, wife of the Rector, was the daughter of the Rev. Oswald
+Leycester, of Stoke Rectory, in Shropshire. Her father was one of the
+Leycesters of Toft House, only a few miles from Alderley, and at Toft
+most of Catherine's early years were spent. She was engaged to Edward
+Stanley before she was seventeen, but did not marry him till nearly two
+years later, in 1810.</p>
+
+<p>During the interval she spent some time in London with Sir John and Lady
+Maria Stanley, and in the literary society of the opening years of the
+nineteenth century she was much sought after for her charm and
+appreciativeness, and for what Sydney Smith called her "porcelain
+understanding." The wits and lions of the Miss Berrys' parties vied with
+each other in making much of her; Rogers and Scott delighted in her
+conversation&mdash;in short, every one agreed, as her sister-in-law Maria
+wrote, that "in Kitty Leycester Edward will indeed have a treasure."</p>
+
+<p>After her marriage she kept up with her friends by active correspondence
+and by annual visits to London. Still, "to the outside world she was
+comparatively unknown; but there was a quiet wisdom, a rare
+unselfishness, a calm discrimination, a firm decision which made her
+judgment and her influence felt through the whole circle in which she
+lived." Her power and charm, coupled with her husband's, made Alderley
+Rectory an inspiring home to their children, several of whom inherited
+talent to a remarkable degree.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_16" id="page_16">[16]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Her sister Maria<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a>
+<a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> writes from Hodnet, the home of the poet Heber: "I
+want to know all you have been doing since the day that bore me away
+from happy Alderley. Oh! the charm of a rectory inhabited by a Reginald
+Heber or an Edward Stanley!"</p>
+
+<p>That Rectory and its surroundings have been perfectly described in the
+words of the author of "Memorials of a Quiet Life"<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>: "A low house,
+with a verandah forming a wide balcony for the upper storey, where
+bird-cages hung among the roses; its rooms and passages filled with
+pictures, books, and old carved oak furniture. In a country where the
+flat pasture lands of Cheshire rise suddenly to the rocky ridge of
+Alderley Edge, with the Holy Well under an overhanging cliff; its
+gnarled pine-trees, its storm-beaten beacon tower ready to give notice
+of an invasion, and looking far over the green plain to the smoke which
+indicates in the horizon the presence of the great manufacturing towns."</p>
+
+<p>There was constant intercourse between the Park and the Rectory, and the
+two families with a large circle of friends led most interesting and
+busy lives. The Rector took delight in helping his seven nieces with
+their Italian and Spanish studies, in fostering their love of poetry and
+natural history, and in developing the minds of his own young children.
+He wrote plays for them to act and birthday odes for them to recite.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image017" id="image017"></a>
+<a href="images/017.jpg">
+<img src="images/017_th.jpg" width="650" height="433" alt="THE FLIGHT OF INTELLECT
+Skit on the recent discovery of the motive power of steam.&mdash;E. Stanley.
+To face p. 17." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">THE FLIGHT OF INTELLECT<br />
+Skit on the recent discovery of the motive power of steam.--E. Stanley.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 17.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_17" id="page_17">[17]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Legends of the countryside, domestic tragedies and comedies were turned
+into verse, whether it were the Cheshire legend of the Iron Gates or the
+fall of Sir John Stanley and his spectacles into the Alderley mere, the
+discovery of a butterfly or the loss of "a superfine piece of Bala
+flannel."</p>
+
+<p>His caricatures illustrated his droll ideas, as in his sketches of the
+six "Ologies from Entomology to Apology." His witty and graceful
+"Bustle's Banquet" or the "Dinner of the Dogs" made a trio with the
+popular poems then recently published of the "Butterfly's Ball" and "The
+Peacock at Home."</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"And since Insects give Balls and Birds are so gay,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">'Tis high time to prove that we Dogs have our day."</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>He wrote a "Familiar History of Birds," illustrated by many personal
+observations, for throughout his life he never lost a chance of watching
+wild bird life. In his early days he had had special opportunities of
+doing so among the rocks and caverns of Holyhead Island. He tells of the
+myriads of sea-birds who used to haunt the South Stack Rock there, in
+the days when it was almost inaccessible; and of their dispersal by the
+building of the first lighthouse there in 1808, when for a time they
+deserted it and never returned in such numbers.</p>
+
+<p>His own family at Alderley Rectory consisted of three sons and two
+daughters.</p>
+
+<p>The eldest son, Owen, had his father's passion for the sea, and was
+allowed to follow his bent.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_18" id="page_18">[18]</a></span> His scientific tastes led him to adopt the
+surveying branch of his profession, and in 1836, when appointed to the
+<i>Terror</i> on her expedition to the North Seas, he had charge of the
+astronomical and magnetic operations.</p>
+
+<p>When in command of the <i>Britomart</i>, in 1840, he secured the North Island
+of New Zealand to the English by landing and hoisting the British flag,
+having heard that a party of French emigrants intended to land that day.
+They did so, but under the protection of the Union Jack.</p>
+
+<p>In 1846 Owen Stanley commanded the <i>Rattlesnake</i> in an important and
+responsible expedition to survey the unknown coast of New Guinea; this
+lasted four years and was very successful, but the great strain and the
+shock of his brother Charles' death at Hobart Town, at this time, were
+too much for him. He died suddenly on board his ship at Sydney in 1850,
+"after thirty-three years' arduous service in every clime."</p>
+
+<p>Professor Huxley, in whose arms he breathed his last, was surgeon to
+this expedition, and his first published composition was an article
+describing it. He speaks of Owen Stanley thus: "Of all those who were
+actively engaged upon the survey, the young commander alone was destined
+to be robbed of his just rewards; he has raised an enduring monument in
+his works, and his epitaph shall be the grateful thanks of many a
+mariner threading his way among the mazes of the Coral Seas."</p>
+
+<p>The second and most distinguished of the three<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_19" id="page_19">[19]</a></span> sons was Arthur Penrhyn
+Stanley, of whom it was said "that in the wideness of his sympathies,
+the broadness of his toleration, and the generosity of his temperament
+the brilliant Dean of Westminster was a true son of his father, the
+Bishop of Norwich."</p>
+
+<p>The third son, Charles Edward, a young officer in the Royal Engineers,
+who had done good work in the Ordnance Survey of Wales, and was already
+high in his profession, was suddenly cut off by fever at his official
+post in Tasmania in 1849.</p>
+
+<p>The eldest daughter, Mary, had great powers of organisation, was a keen
+philanthropist and her father's right hand at Norwich. In 1854 she took
+charge of a detachment of nurses who followed Miss Nightingale's pioneer
+band to the East, and worked devotedly for the Crimean sick and wounded
+at the hospital at Koulalee.</p>
+
+<p>Katherine, the youngest daughter, a most original character, married Dr.
+Vaughan, headmaster of Harrow, Master of the Temple, and Dean of
+Llandaff. She survived her whole family and lived till 1899.</p>
+
+<p>The home at Alderley lasted for thirty-three years, during which Edward
+Stanley had changed the whole face of the parish and successfully
+organised many schemes of improvement in the conditions of the working
+classes in his neighbourhood. He could now leave his work to other
+hands, and felt that his energies required a wider field, so that when
+in 1838 Lord Melbourne offered him the See of Norwich he was induced to
+accept the offer, though only "after<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_20" id="page_20">[20]</a></span> much hesitation and after a severe
+struggle, which for a time almost broke down his usual health and
+sanguine spirit."</p>
+
+<p>"It would be vain and useless," he said, "to speak to others of what it
+cost me to leave Alderley"; but to his new sphere he carried the same
+zeal and indomitable energy which had ever characterised him, and gained
+the affection of many who had shuddered at the appointment of a "Liberal
+Bishop."</p>
+
+<p>At Norwich his work was very arduous and often discouraging. He came in
+the dawn of the Victorian age to attack a wall of customs and abuses
+which had arisen far back in the early Georgian era, with no hereditary
+connection or influence in the diocese to counteract the odium that he
+incurred as a new-comer by the institution of changes which he deemed
+necessary.</p>
+
+<p>It was no wonder that for three or four years he had to stem a steady
+torrent of prejudice and more or less opposition; but though his
+broadminded views were often the subject of criticism, his bitterest
+opponents could not withstand the genial, kindly spirit in which he met
+their objections.</p>
+
+<p>"At the time of his entrance upon his office party feeling was much more
+intense than it has been in later years, and of this the county of
+Norfolk presented, perhaps, as strong examples as could be found in any
+part of the kingdom."</p>
+
+<p>The bishop was "a Whig in politics and a staunch supporter of a Whig
+ministry," but in all the various questions where politics and theology<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_21" id="page_21">[21]</a></span>
+cross one another he took the free and comprehensive instead of the
+precise and exclusive views, and to impress them on others was one chief
+interest of his new position.</p>
+
+<p>The indifference to party which he displayed, both in social matters and
+in his dealings with his clergy, tended to alienate extreme partisans of
+whatever section, and at one time caused him even to be unpopular with
+the lower classes of Norwich in spite of his sympathies.</p>
+
+<p>The courage with which the Rector had quelled the prize fight at
+Alderley shone out again in the Bishop. "I remember," says an
+eye-witness, "seeing Bishop Stanley, on a memorable occasion, come out
+of the Great Hall of St. Andrew's, Norwich. The Chartist mob, who lined
+the street, saluted the active, spare little Bishop with hooting and
+groans. He came out alone and unattended till he was followed by me and
+my brother, determined, as the saying is, 'to see him safe home,' for
+the mob was highly excited and brutal. Bishop Stanley marched along ten
+yards, then turned sharp round and fixed his eagle eyes on the mob, and
+then marched ten yards more and turned round again rapidly and gave the
+same hawk-like look."</p>
+
+<p>His words and actions must often have been startling to his
+contemporaries; when temperance was a new cause he publicly spoke in
+support of the Roman Catholic Father Mathew, who had promoted it in
+Ireland; when the idea of any education<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_22" id="page_22">[22]</a></span> for the masses was not
+universally accepted he advocated admitting the children of Dissenters
+to the National Schools; and when the stage had not the position it now
+holds, he dared to offer hospitality to one of the most distinguished of
+its representatives, Jenny Lind, to mark his respect for her life and
+influence.</p>
+
+<p>For all this he was bitterly censured, but his kindly spirit and
+friendly intercourse with his clergy smoothed the way through apparently
+insurmountable difficulties, and his powerful aid was ever at hand in
+any benevolent movement to advise and organise means of help.</p>
+
+<p>In his home at Norwich the Bishop and Mrs. Stanley delighted to welcome
+guests of every shade of opinion, and one of them, a member of a
+well-known Quaker family, has recorded her impression of her host's
+conversation. "The Bishop talks, darting from one subject to another,
+like one impatient of delay, amusing and pleasant," and he is described
+on coming to Norwich as having "a step as quick, a voice as firm, a
+power of enduring fatigue almost as unbroken as when he traversed his
+parish in earlier days or climbed the precipices of the Alps."</p>
+
+<p>In his public life the liveliness of his own interest in scientific
+pursuits, the ardour with which he would hail any new discovery, the
+vividness of his own observation of Nature would illustrate with an
+unexpected brilliancy the worn-out topics of a formal speech. Few who
+were present at<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_23" id="page_23">[23]</a></span> the meeting when the Borneo Mission was first proposed
+to the London public in 1847 can forget the strain of naval ardour with
+which the Bishop offered his heartfelt tribute of moral respect and
+admiration to the heroic exertions of Sir James Brooke.</p>
+
+<p>It was his highest pleasure to bear witness to the merits or to
+contribute to the welfare of British seamen. He seized every opportunity
+of addressing them on their moral and religious duties, and many were
+the rough sailors whose eyes were dimmed with tears among the
+congregations of the crews of the <i>Queen</i> and the <i>Rattlesnake</i>, when he
+preached on board those vessels at Plymouth, whither he had accompanied
+his eldest son, Captain Owen Stanley, to witness his embarkation on his
+last voyage.</p>
+
+<p>"The sermon," so the Admiral told Dean Stanley twenty years afterwards,
+"was never forgotten. The men were so crowded that they almost sat on
+one another's shoulders, with such attention and admiration that they
+could scarcely restrain a cheer."</p>
+
+<p>For twelve years his presence was felt as a power for good through the
+length and breadth of his diocese; and after his death, in September,
+1849, his memory was long loved and revered.</p>
+
+<p>"I felt as if a sunbeam had passed through my parish," wrote a clergyman
+from a remote corner of his diocese, after a visit from him, "and had
+left me to rejoice in its genial and cheerful warmth.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_24" id="page_24">[24]</a></span> From that day I
+would have died to serve him; and I believe that not a few of my humble
+flock were animated by the same kind of feeling."</p>
+
+<p>His yearly visits to his former parish of Alderley were looked forward
+to by those he had known and loved during his long parochial
+ministrations as the greatest pleasure of their lives.</p>
+
+<p>"I have been," he writes (in the last year of his life), "in various
+directions over the parish, visiting many welcome faces, laughing with
+the living, weeping over the dying. It is gratifying to see the cordial
+familiarity with which they receive me, and Norwich clergy would
+scarcely know me by cottage fires, talking over old times with their
+hands clasped in mine as an old and dear friend."</p>
+
+<p>Under the light which streams through the stained glass of his own
+cathedral the remains of Bishop Stanley rest in the thoroughfare of the
+great congregation.</p>
+
+<p>"When we were children," said a grey-haired Norfolk rector this very
+year, "our mother never allowed us to walk upon the stone covering
+Bishop Stanley's grave. I have never forgotten it, and would not walk
+upon it even now."</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"We pass; the path that each man trod</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">Is dim, or will be dim, with weeds:</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3.5em;">What fame is left for human deeds</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">In endless age? It rests with God."</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 447px;">
+<a name="image025" id="image025"></a>
+<a href="images/025.jpg">
+<img src="images/025_th.jpg" width="447" height="550" alt="P. Green, pinx circa 1800. Emery Walker Ph. Sc.
+Edward Stanley." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption"><i>Edward Stanley</i><br />
+P. Green, pinx circa 1800.</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_25" id="page_25">[25]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I</h3>
+
+<p class="head">NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE</p>
+
+<p class="contents">Rouen and its theatres&mdash;Painted windows&mdash;Paris&mdash;Costumes <i>� la
+Fran�aise</i>&mdash;The guillotine&mdash;Geneva&mdash;Vetturino
+travelling&mdash;Italy&mdash;Spain&mdash;The Ship <i>John</i> of Leith&mdash;Gibraltar.</p>
+
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">I</span><b>N</b> June, 1802, Edward Stanley started on the first of those foreign
+journeys which, throughout his life, continued to be his favourite form
+of holiday.</p>
+
+<p>He had just left Cambridge, having obtained a brilliant degree, and
+before taking Orders he set out with his college friend, Edward
+Hussey,<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> on the Grand Tour which was then considered necessary to
+complete a liberal education.</p>
+
+<p>They were fortunate in the moment of their journey, for the Treaty of
+Amiens, which had been concluded only a few months before, had enabled
+Englishmen to tour safely in France for the first time for many years;
+and every scene in France<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_26" id="page_26">[26]</a></span> was full of thrilling interest. The marks of
+the Reign of Terror were still plainly to be seen, and the new order of
+things which the First Consul had inaugurated was only just beginning.</p>
+
+<p>It was an epoch-making journey to a young man fresh from college, and
+Edward Stanley was deeply impressed by what he saw.</p>
+
+<p>He could compare his own experiences with those of his brother and
+father, who had been in France before the Revolution, and of his
+sister-in-law, Maria Josepha, who had travelled there just before the
+Reign of Terror; and in view of the destruction which had taken place
+since then, he was evidently convinced that Napoleon's iron hand was the
+greatest boon to the country.</p>
+
+<p>He and his companion had the good fortune to leave France before the
+short interval of peace ended abruptly, and they were therefore saved
+from the fate of hundreds of their friends and fellow-travellers who had
+thronged across the Channel in 1802, and who were detained by Napoleon
+for years against their will.</p>
+
+<p>Edward Stanley and Edward Hussey left France at the end of June, and
+went on to Switzerland, Italy, and finally to Spain, where the
+difficulties and dangers which they met, reveal the extraordinary dearth
+of personal comfort and civilised habits among that nation at the time.</p>
+
+<p>The dangers and discomforts did not, however, interfere with the
+interest and pleasure of the writer who describes them. Then and ever
+after, travelling<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_27" id="page_27">[27]</a></span> was Edward Stanley's delight, and he took any
+adventure in the spirit of the French song&mdash;</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Je suis touriste</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Quel gai m�tier."</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>His letters to his father and brother show that he lost no opportunity
+of getting information and of recording what he saw; and he began on
+this journey the first of a long series of sketchbooks, by which he
+illustrated his later journeys so profusely.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his Father, Sir John T. Stanley, Bart.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Rouen</span>, <i>June 11, 1802</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Father</span>,&mdash;You have already heard that I arrived here, &amp; have been
+fortunate in every thing since I left England. Our passage from Brighton
+to Dieppe was short and pleasant, and so was our stay at Dieppe, which
+we left the morning after we arrived in it. I never saw France before
+the Revolution, &amp; therefore cannot judge of the Contrasted appearance of
+its towns, but this I can safely say, that I never before saw such
+strong marks of Poverty both in the houses &amp; Inhabitants. I have as yet
+seen nothing like a Gentleman; probably many may affect the dress and
+manners of the lower Orders, in order to screen themselves &amp; may
+consider that an outward show of Poverty is<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_28" id="page_28">[28]</a></span> the only way of securing
+what Riches they have. I can conceive nothing so melancholy.</p>
+
+<p>When I saw fine seats without Windows or with shattered Roofs, &amp;
+everywhere falling to decay, I could not help thinking of their
+unfortunate Owners, who, even if they were lucky enough to be reinstated
+in their possessions, might fear to repair their Places, lest an
+Appearance of comfort might tempt the Government to seize their Effects.
+The only Buildings at all tolerable are the Barracks, which in general
+are large and well taken care of, &amp; plenty of them there are in every
+town and village. Every Person is here a Soldier, ready to turn out at a
+moment's warning. This Town is in a flourishing State at present, tho'
+during the war not a single ship made its appearance in its Ports; now
+there are a great number of Vessels, chiefly Dutch. The Trade is Cotton,
+for the Manufactory of Stuffs and Handkerchiefs. It is said to be one of
+the dearest towns in France; certainly I have not found things very
+cheap. We were at the Play last night. An Opera called "La Dot," and an
+after piece called "Blaise &amp; Bullet" were performed. The Actors were
+capital, at Drury Lane they could not have acted better. The House is
+very large for a Country Theatre and very pretty, but so shockingly
+filthy and offensive, that I wondered any Person could go often, but
+habit, I suppose, reconciles everything. There were a great many
+officers in the Boxes, a haughty set of beings, who treat their
+Compatriotes in a very scurvy way. They are the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_29" id="page_29">[29]</a></span> Kings of the place and
+do what they please. Indeed, we had a fine Specimen of Liberty during
+the Performances. An Actress had been sent to Rouen from Paris, a
+wretched Performer she was, but from Paris she came, and the Managers
+were obliged to accept her &amp; make her act. The Consequence was, she soon
+got hissed, and a Note was thrown on the Stage; whatever it was they
+were not permitted to read or make it public till they had shewn it to
+the Officer of Police, who in the present Case would not let them read
+it. The hissing was, however, continued from Corners of the House, &amp; one
+man who sate near us talked in a high style about the People being
+imposed on, when in the middle of his Speech I saw this Man of Liberty
+jump out of the Box and disappear in an Instant. I opened the Box door
+to see what was the cause, when lo! the Lobby was filled with Soldiers,
+with their Bayonets fix'd, and the officer was looking about for any
+Person who might dare to whistle or hiss, and silent and contented were
+the Audience the rest of the Performance. I cannot help mentioning a
+Speech I heard this very evening at the Play. A Man was sitting near a
+Lady &amp; very angry he was, &amp; attempted often to hiss, but was for some
+time kept quiet by the Lady. At last he lost all Patience and exclaimed,
+"Ma Foi, Madame, Je ferai ici comme si j�tais en Angleterre o� on fait
+tout ce qu'on plait." And away he went to hiss; with what effect his
+determination a l'Angloise was attended, I have mentioned. I afterwards
+entered into conver<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_30" id="page_30">[30]</a></span>sation with the Lady, &amp; when she told me about the
+Police Officer not giving permission to read the note, she added,
+looking at us, "to you, Gentlemen, this must be a second Comedy." Last
+night (Sunday) I went to a F�te about a mile from the Town; we paid 1s.
+3d. each. It concluded with a grand Firework. It was a sort of Vauxhall.
+In one part of the Gardens they were dancing Cotillons, in another
+swinging. In another part bands of Music. I was never so much
+entertained as with the Dancers; most of them were Children. One little
+set in a Cotillon danced in a Style I could not have fancied possible;
+you will think I am telling a <i>Traveller's</i> Story when I tell you I
+thought they performed nearly as well as I could have seen at the Opera.
+Here, as at the Theatre, Soldiers kept every body in awe; a strong party
+of Dragoons were posted round the Gardens with their horses saddled
+close at hand ready to act. I din'd yesterday at a Table d'H�te, with
+five French Officers. In my life I never saw such ill bred Blackguards,
+dirty in their way of eating, overbearing in their Conversation, tho'
+they never condescended to address themselves to us, and more proud and
+aristocratical than any of the <i>ci-devant Noblesse</i> could ever have
+been. From this Moment I believe all the Accounts I have heard from our
+officers of the French officers who were prisoners during the War. They
+were always insolent, and excepting in some few cases, ungratefull in
+the extreme for any kindness shewn to them.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 626px;">
+<a name="image031" id="image031"></a>
+<a href="images/031.jpg">
+<img src="images/031_th.jpg" width="626" height="550" alt="THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE, PARIS, JUNE, 1802.
+To face p. 31." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE, PARIS, JUNE, 1802.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -30%;">To face p. 31.</span></span>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_31" id="page_31">[31]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>June 17th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>The Day before yesterday I arrived in this Metropolis. We left Rouen in
+a Diligence &amp; had a pleasant Journey; the Country we passed over was
+throughout extremely fertile; whatever Scarcity exists at present in
+France, it must be of short duration, as the Harvest promises to be
+abundant, and as every Field is corn land, the quantity of Grain will be
+immense. Government has indeed now taken every precaution. The Ports of
+Rouen &amp; Dieppe were filled with Ships from Embden &amp; Dantzig with Corn.
+Our Diligence was accompanied all the Night by a Guard of Dragoons, and
+we passed every now and then parties of Foot Soldiers on the Watch. The
+reason was, that the road had lately been infested with Robbers, who
+attacked the Public Carriages in great numbers, sometimes to the Amount
+of 40 together. They in general behaved well to the Passengers,
+requiring only any Money belonging to Government which might happen to
+be in the Carriage. At present as the Leader is taken and the Band
+dispersed, there is no Danger, but it is a good excuse to keep a Number
+of Troops in that part of the Country. We entered Paris by St. Denis,
+but the fine Church and Royal Palace are not now as they were in your
+time. The Former is in part unroofed and considerably damaged&mdash;the
+latter is a Barrack and from its outward appearance seems to have
+suffered much in the Revolution. The City of Paris on entering it by no
+means<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_32" id="page_32">[32]</a></span> strikes a stranger. In your time it must have been but tolerable,
+now it is worse, as every other house seems to be falling down or to be
+deserted. We have taken our abode in the Rue de Vivienne at the H�tel de
+Boston, a central Situation and the house tolerably dear. The poor
+Hussey suffered so much from a Nest of Buggs the first night, that he
+after enduring them to forage on his body for an Hour, left his Bed &amp;
+passed the night on a sofa. A propos, I must beg to inform Mr. Hugh
+Leycester that I paid Attention to the Conveyances on the road &amp; think
+that he will have no reason to complain of them; the vehicles are not
+quite so good as in England nor are the Horses, but both are still very
+tolerable. The Inns I slept at were very good, and the roads by no means
+bad. I have been to a Play every Night since my arrival in Paris and
+shall continue so to do till I have seen all the theatres. The first
+evening I went to the "Th��tre de la R�publique"; I am told it is the
+best. At least the first Actors performed there. It is not to be
+compared with any of ours in style of fitting up. The want of light
+which first strikes a Stranger's eye on entering a foreign Play-house
+has its Advantage. It shews off the Performers and induces the Audience
+to pay more Attention to ye Stage, but the brilliant Effect we are used
+to find on entering our Theatres is wanting. This House is not fitted up
+with any taste. I thought the theatre at Rouen preferable. The famous
+Talma, the Kemble, acted in a Tragedy, &amp;<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_33" id="page_33">[33]</a></span> Mme. Petit, the Mrs. Siddons
+of Paris, performed. The former, I think, must have seen Kemble, as he
+resembles him both in person and style of acting, but I did not admire
+him so much. In his silent Acting, however, he was very great. Mme.
+Petit acted better than any tragic Actress I have ever seen, excepting
+Mrs. Siddons. After the Play last Night I went to the Frascati, a sort
+of Vauxhall where you pay nothing on entering, but are expected to take
+some refreshments. This, Mr. Palmer told me, was the Lounge of the Beau
+Monde, who were all to be found here after the Opera &amp; Plays. We have
+nothing of the sort in England, therefore I shall not attempt to
+describe it. We staid here about an hour. The Company was numerous, &amp; I
+suppose the best, at least it was better than any I had seen at the
+Theatres or in the Walks, but it appeared to me to be very bad. The Men
+I shall say nothing more of, they are all the same. They come to all
+Places in dirty Neckcloths or Pocket Handkerchiefs tied round their
+necks &amp; most of them have filthy great Coats &amp; Boots, in short, Dress
+amongst the Bucks (&amp; I am told that within this Month or two they are
+very much improved) seems to be quite out of the Question. As for the
+Ladies, O mon Dieu! Madame R�camier's<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a>
+Dress at Boodles was by no means extraordinary. My sister can describe that and then you may form
+some idea of them. By<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_34" id="page_34">[34]</a></span> what I can judge from outward appearance, the
+Morals of Paris must be at a very low ebb. I may perhaps see more of
+them, when I go to the Opera &amp; Parties. I have a thousand things more to
+say, but have no room. This Letter has been written at such out of the
+way times &amp; by little bits at a time, that I know not how you will
+connect it, but I have not a moment to spare in the regular Course of
+the Day. It is now between 6 &amp; 7 o'Clock in the Morning, and as I cannot
+find my Cloaths am sitting in a Dress � la Mode d'une Dame Fran�aise
+till Charles comes up with them. Paris is full of English, amongst
+others I saw Montague Matthews at the Frascati. I shall stay here till
+5th July, as my chance of seeing Buonaparte depends on my staying till
+4th, when he reviews the Consular Guard. He is a fine fellow by all
+accounts; a Military Government when such a head as his manages
+everything cannot be called a Grievance. Indeed, it is productive of so
+much order and regularity, that I begin not to dislike it so much. At
+the Theatres you have no disturbance. In the streets Carriages are kept
+in order&mdash;in short, it is supreme and seems to suit this Country vastly
+well, but God forbid I should ever witness it in England. You may write
+to me and tell others so to do till the 25th of June. Adieu; I cannot
+tell when I shall write again. This you know is a Family Epistle,
+therefore Farewell to you all.</p>
+
+<p class="yours">
+<span class="smcap">Ed. Stanley.</span><br />
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_35" id="page_35">[35]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I have just paid a visit to Madame de D. She received me very
+graciously, &amp; strongly pressed me to stay till 14th of July to be
+present at the Grand Day. She says Paris is not now worth seeing, but
+then every Person will be in Town. If there is no other way of seeing
+Buonaparte I believe I shall stay&mdash;but I do not wish it&mdash;I shall prefer
+Geneva.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his brother, J. T. Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Hotel de Boston, Rue Vivienne</span>,<br />
+<span style="margin-right:5em;"><i>June 21, 1802</i>.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Brother</span>,&mdash; ... I sailed from Brighton on the evening of 8th and
+was wafted by a fine Breeze towards this Coast, which we made early on
+the morning of 9th, but owing to the tide, which had drifted us too much
+to leeward of Dieppe, we were unable to land before noon. We were
+carried before the Officer of the municipality, who after taking down
+our names, ages, &amp; destination, left us to ramble about at pleasure.
+Whatever Dieppe might have been before the Revolution, it is now a
+melancholy-looking place. Large houses falling to ruin. Inhabitants
+poor, Streets full of Soldiers, &amp; Churches turned into Stables,
+Barracks, or Magazines. We staid there but one night &amp; then proceeded in
+one of their Diligences to Rouen. These Conveyances you of course have
+often seen; they are not as Speedy in their motion as an English Mail
+Coach, or as easy as a Curricle, but we have found them very convenient,
+&amp; shall not complain of our travelling<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_36" id="page_36">[36]</a></span> accommodation if we are always
+fortunate enough to meet with these vehicles. At Rouen we staid four
+days, as the Town is large and well worth seeing; I then made an attempt
+to procure you some painted glass; as almost all the Churches and all
+the Convents are destroyed, their fine windows are neglected, &amp; the
+panes broken or carried off by almost every person. The <i>Stable</i> from
+whence our Diligence started had some beautiful windows, and had I
+thought of it in time I think I might have sent you some. As it was I
+went to the owner of the Churches &amp; asked him if he would sell any of
+the windows. Now tho' ever since he has had possession of them Everybody
+has been permitted to demolish at pleasure, he no sooner found that a
+Stranger was anxious to procure what to him was of no value, &amp; what he
+had hitherto thought worth nothing, than he began to think he might take
+advantage &amp; therefore told me that he would give me an answer in a few
+days if I would wait till he could see what they were worth. As I was
+going the next morning I could not hear the result, but I think you
+could for one guinea purchase nearly a whole Church window, at least it
+may be worth your while to send to Liverpool to know if any Ship is at
+any time going there. The Proprietor of these Churches is a Banker, by
+name Tezart; he lives in la Rue aux Ours.</p>
+
+<p>I arrived in Paris on the 15th, and intend staying even till the 14th of
+July if I cannot before then<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_37" id="page_37">[37]</a></span> see the chief Consul. Hitherto I have been
+unfortunate; I have in vain attended at the Thuilleries when the
+Consular guard is relieved, and seated myself opposite his box at the
+Opera. On the 4th of July, however, there is a Review of his Guard, when
+he always appears, then I shall do my utmost to get a view of him. I
+cannot be introduced as I have not been at our Court, and no King was
+ever more fond of Court Etiquette than Buonaparte. He resides in the
+Thuilleries; opposite to his windows is the place de Carousel, which he
+has Separated from the great Area by a long Iron railing with three
+Gates. On each side of the 2 side Gates are placed the famous brazen
+horses from Venice, the middle Gate has 2 Lodges, where are stationed
+Horse Guards. Above this Gate are four Gilt Spears on which are perched
+the Cock &amp; a Civic wreath which I at first took for the Roman Eagle,
+borne before their Consuls, resembling it in every other respect. These
+Gates are shut every night and also on every Review day. Paris, like all
+the Country, swarms with Soldiers; in Every Street there is a Barrack.
+In Paris alone there are upwards of 15 thousand men. I must say nothing
+of the Government. It is highly necessary in France for every person,
+particularly Strangers, to be careful in delivering their opinions; I
+can only say that the <i>Slavery</i> of it is infinitely more to my taste
+than the <i>Freedom</i> of France. The public Exhibitions (and indeed almost
+Every thing is public) are on a scale of Liberality which should<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_38" id="page_38">[38]</a></span> put
+England to the blush. Everything is open without money. The finest
+library I ever saw is open Daily to Every person. You have but to ask
+for any book, &amp; you are furnished with it, and accommodated with table,
+pens, ink, &amp; paper. The Louvre, the finest Collection of pictures and
+Statues in the world, is likewise open, &amp; not merely open to view. It is
+filled, excepting on the public days, with artists who are at liberty to
+copy anything they please. Where in England can we boast of anything
+like this? Our British Museum is only to be seen by interest, &amp; then
+shewn in a very cursory manner. Our Public Libraries at the Universities
+are equally difficult of access. It is the most politic thing the
+Government could have done. The Arts are here encouraged in a most
+liberal manner. Authors, Painters, Sculptors, and, in short, all persons
+in France, have opportunities of improving themselves which can not be
+found in any other Country in the World, not even in Britain. You may
+easily conceive that I who am fond of painting was most highly
+Entertained in viewing the Great Gallery of the Louvre, &amp; yet you will,
+I am sure, think my taste very deficient when I tell you that I do not
+admire the finest pictures of Raphael, Titian, Guido, and Paul Veronese,
+so much as I do those of Rubens, Vandyck, &amp; le Brun, nor the landscapes
+of Claude and Poussin so much as Vernet's. Rembrandt, Gerard Dow &amp; his
+pupils Mieris and Metsu please me more than any other artists. In the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_39" id="page_39">[39]</a></span>
+whole Collection they have but one of Salvator's, but that one, I think,
+is preferable to all Raphael's. I have not yet seen statues enough to be
+judge of their beauties. The Apollo of Belvidere &amp; the celebrated
+Laocoon lose, therefore, much of their Excellence when seen by me. There
+is still a fine Collection in the Palace of Versailles, but the view of
+that once Royal Palace excites the most melancholy ideas. The furniture
+was all sold by auction, &amp; nothing is left but the walls and their
+pictures. The Gardens are much neglected, &amp; will soon, unless the Consul
+again makes it a royal residence, be quite ruined. You have, I daresay,
+often heard that the Morals &amp; Society of Paris were very bad; indeed,
+you have heard nothing but the truth. As for the men, they are the
+dirtiest set of fellows I ever saw, and most of them, especially the
+Officers, very unlike Gentlemen. The dress of the women, with few
+exceptions, is highly indecent; in London, even in Drury Lane, I have
+seen few near so bad. Before I left England, I had heard, but never
+believed, that some Ladies paraded the streets in men's Clothes. It is
+singular that in the first genteel-looking person I spoke to in Paris to
+ask my way, I was answered by what I then perceived a lady in Breeches &amp;
+boots, since when I have seen several at the Theatres, at the Frascati &amp;
+fashionable lounges of the evening, &amp; in the Streets and public walks! I
+have not heard from you since I left England. Excepting the letter which
+was forwarded from Grosvenor Place. I<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_40" id="page_40">[40]</a></span> hope to hear at Geneva, where I
+shall go as soon as the great Consul will permit me by shewing himself.
+The Country is in the finest state possible, and their weather most
+favourable. They have had a scarcity of corn lately, but the approaching
+Harvest will most assuredly remove that. Adieu; I hope Mrs. Stanley has
+already received a very trifling present from me; I only sent it because
+it was classic wood. I mean the necklace made of Milton's mulberry-tree.
+I brought the wood from Christ's College Garden, in Cambridge, where
+Milton himself planted it.</p>
+
+<p class="yourss">
+Believe me,<br />
+Yours sincerely,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;"><span class="smcap">Edwd. Stanley.</span></span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>From Edward Stanley to his Father and Mother.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Lyons,</span> <i>July 20, 1802</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I shall not write you a very long letter as I intend to send you a more
+particular account of myself from Geneva, for which place we propose
+setting out to-morrow, not by the Diligence, but by the Vetturino, a
+mode of travelling which, of course, you are well acquainted with, being
+the usual and almost only method practised throughout Italy unless a
+person has his own carriage. I am to pay �3 10s. for ourselves and
+Suite, but not including bed and provisions. South of the Alps these are
+agreed for.</p>
+
+<p>After every endeavour to see Buonaparte had proved vain, on the 6th of
+July we quitted Paris in<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_41" id="page_41">[41]</a></span> a Cabriolet. All this night, and especially
+the next day, we thought we should be broiled to death; the thermometer
+was at 95 the noon of July 7th; as you relish that, you may have some
+idea of the Luxury you would have enjoyed with us.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Troyes on the evening of the 7th, an old town in
+Champagne. People civil and excellent Living, as the Landlord was a
+<i>ci-devant</i> Head cook to a convent of Benedictines, but Hussey and
+Charles were almost devoured in the Night by our old enemies the Bugs.
+Hussey was obliged to change his room and sleep all next day. I escaped
+without the least visit, and I am persuaded that if a famine wasted the
+Bugs of the whole Earth, they would sooner perish than touch me.</p>
+
+<p>We left Troyes early on the morning of the 9th, arrived at Chatillon at
+four, and stayed there all night, for the Diligences do not travel so
+fast as in England. We left it at four the next morning, Hussey, as
+usual smarting, and I very little refreshed by sleep, as owing to a
+Compound of Ducks and Chickens who kept up a constant chorus within five
+yards of my bed, a sad noise in the kitchen from which I was barely
+separated, Dogs barking, Waggon Bells ringing, &amp;c., I could scarcely
+close my eyes.</p>
+
+<p>At Dijon, beautiful Dijon, we arrived on the Evening of the 10th. Had I
+known it had been so sweet a Town I should have stayed longer, but we
+had taken our places to Ch�lons and were<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_42" id="page_42">[42]</a></span> obliged to pass on. You, I
+believe, staid some time there, but, alas! how different now! The Army
+of rescue was encamped for some time in its neighbourhood, and the many
+respectable families who lived in or near it rendered it a sad prey to
+the hand of Robespierre. Its Churches and Convents are in a deplorable
+state, even as those of this still more unfortunate Town. The best
+Houses are shut up, and its finest Buildings are occupied by the
+Military. We left on the morning of the 11th, travelled safely (except a
+slight breakdown at our journey's end) to Ch�lons sur Sa�ne, and on the
+11th went by the water-diligence to Macon, where we stopped to sleep. We
+arrived at dusk, and as we were in a dark staircase exploring our way
+and speaking English, we heard a voice say, "This way, Sir; here is the
+supper." We were quite rejoiced to hear an English voice, particularly
+in such a place.</p>
+
+<p>We soon met the speaker, and passed a most pleasant Hour with him. He
+proved to be a Passenger like ourselves in the Diligence from Lyons
+which met ours here at the Common resting-place. He was a Surgeon of the
+Staff, returning from Egypt, by name Shute. We all three talked
+together, and as loud as we could; the Company, I believe, thought us
+strange Beings. We told him what we could of England in a short time, he
+of the South, and we exchanged every Species of information, and were
+sorry when it was necessary to part.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image043" id="image043"></a>
+<a href="images/043.jpg">
+<img src="images/043_th.jpg" width="650" height="594" alt="THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SA�NE.
+
+To face p. 43." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SA�NE.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -30%;">To face p. 43.</span></span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_43" id="page_43">[43]</a></span>
+We arrived at Lyons on the 14th, the Day of the Grand F�te. We saw the
+Town Hall illuminated, and a Review on the melancholy Plains of
+Buttereaux, the common Tomb of so many Lyonnese. Here we have remained
+since, but shall probably be at Geneva on the 23rd. I lodge at the Hotel
+de Parc looking into the Place de Ferreant.</p>
+
+<p>The Landlady, to my great surprise, spoke to me in English very
+fluently. She is also a very excellent Spaniard. She has seen better
+days, her husband having been a Merchant, but the Revolution destroyed
+him. She was Prisoner for some time at Liverpool, taken by a Privateer
+belonging to Tarleton and Rigge, who, I am sorry to say, did not behave
+quite so handsomely as they should, the private property not having been
+restored.</p>
+
+<p>Of all the Towns I have seen this has suffered most. All the Ch�teaux
+and Villas in its most beautiful Environs are shut up. The fine Square
+of St. Louis le Grand, then Belle Cour, now Place Buonaparte, is knocked
+to pieces; the fine Statue is broken and removed, and nothing left that
+could remind you of what it was.</p>
+
+<p>I have been witness to a scene which, of course, my curiosity as a
+Traveller would not let me pass over, but which I hope not to see
+again&mdash;an Execution on the Guillotine. Charles saw a man suffer at
+Ch�lons; we did not know till it was over, but the Machine was still
+standing, and the marks of the Execution very recent. On looking out of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_44" id="page_44">[44]</a></span>
+my window the morning after our arrival here, I saw the dreadful
+Instrument in the Place de Ferreant, and on inquiry found that five men
+were to be beheaded in the morning and two in the evening. They deserved
+their fate; they had robbed some Farmhouses and committed some
+cruelties. In England, however, they would probably have escaped, as the
+evidence was chiefly presumptive. They were brought to the Scaffold from
+the Prison, tied each with his arms behind him and again to each other;
+they were attended by a Priest, not, however, in black, and a party of
+soldiers. The time of execution of the whole five did not exceed five
+minutes. Of all situations in the world, I can conceive of none half so
+terrible as that of the last Prisoner. He saw his companions ascend one
+after another, heard each fatal blow, and saw each Body thrown aside to
+make room for him. I shall never forget his countenance when he
+stretched out his neck on the fatal board. He shut his eyes on looking
+down where the heads of his companions had fallen, and instantly his
+face turned from ghastly paleness to a deep red, and the wire was
+touched and he was no more. Of all Deaths it is far the most easy; not a
+convulsive struggle could be perceived after the blow. The sight is
+horrid in the extreme, though not awful, as no ceremony is used to make
+it so. Those who have daily seen 200 suffer without the least ceremony
+or trial get hardened to the sight.</p>
+
+<p>The mode of Execution in England is not so<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_45" id="page_45">[45]</a></span> speedy certainly nor so
+horrid, but it is conducted with a degree of Solemnity that must impress
+the mind most forcibly. I did not see the two who suffered in the
+evening, the morning's business was quite enough to satisfy my
+curiosity.</p>
+
+<p>The next Morning I saw a punishment a degree less shocking, though I
+think the Prisoner's fate was little better than those of the day
+before. He was seated on a Scaffold in the same place for Public View,
+there to remain for six hours and then to be imprisoned in irons for 18
+years, a Term (as he is 41) I think he will not survive.</p>
+
+<p>What with the immediate effects of the Siege and events that followed,
+the Town has suffered so much in its Buildings and inhabitants, that I
+think it will never recover. The Manufactories of silk are just
+beginning to shoot up by slow degrees. Formerly they afforded employment
+to 40,000 men, now not above half that number can be found, and they
+cannot earn so much. Were I a Lyonese I should wish to plant the plains
+of Buttereaux with cypress-trees and close them in with rails. The Place
+had been a scene of too much horror to remain open for Public amusement.
+The fine H�pital de la Charit�, against which the besiegers directed
+their heaviest cannon in spite of the Black ensign, which it is
+customary to hoist over buildings of that nature during a Siege, is much
+damaged, though scarcely so much as I should have expected. The Romantic
+Castle of the Pierre Suisse is no longer to be found, it was<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_46" id="page_46">[46]</a></span> destroyed
+early in the troubles together with most of the Roman Antiquities round
+Lyons. I yesterday dined with two more Englishmen at the Table d'h�te;
+they were from the South; one, from his conversation a Navy officer, had
+been absent seven years, and had been in the Garrison of Porte Ferrajo
+in the Isle of Elba, the other an Egyptian Hero. There is also a Colonel
+from the same place whose name I know not.</p>
+
+<p>I heard it was an easy thing to be introduced to the Pope,<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> if letters
+are to be had for our Minister, whose name is Fagan, or something like
+it. Now, as I may if I can get an opportunity when at Geneva to pay a
+visit to Rome and Florence previous to passing the Pyrenees, I should
+like a letter to this Mr. Fagan, if one can be got. As Buonaparte's Pope
+is not, I believe, so particular as the Hero himself with regard to
+introductions, I may perhaps be presented to him. I look forward with
+inexpressible pleasure to my arrival at Geneva, to find myself amongst
+old friends and to meet with, I hope, an immense collection of letters.</p>
+
+<p>The Vineyards promise to be very abundant; of course we tasted some of
+the best when in Burgundy and Champagne. What a country that is! The
+corn to the East of Paris is not so promising as that in Normandy. The
+frosts which we felt in May have extended even more to the South than to
+this Town. The apple-trees of Normandy have suffered most, and the vines
+in<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_47" id="page_47">[47]</a></span> the Northern parts of France have also been damaged.... I shall go
+from Geneva to Genoa, and there hold a council of war.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Geneva.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...Between Lyons and Geneva we supped with the Passengers of a
+Vetturino. Two of these were Officers in the French Service, one of them
+a Swiss, the other a Frenchman. The conversation soon fell upon
+Politics, in which I did not choose to join, but was sufficiently
+entertained in hearing the Discourse. Both agreed in abominating the
+present state of Affairs. The Swiss hated the Consul, because he
+destroyed his Country, the other because he was too like a King. Both
+were Philosophers, and each declared himself to be a Moralist. The
+Frenchman was by far the most vehement of the two, and the Swiss seemed
+to take much pleasure in leading him on. His philosophy seemed to be
+drawn from a source equally pure with his Morality; assuming for his
+Motto his first and favourite Maxim, "que tous les hommes sont �gaux par
+les lois de la Nature," &amp;c., he thought himself justified in wishing
+Buonaparte (I was going to say) at the Devil (but I soon found out that
+the existence of that Gentleman was a matter of great doubt with the
+Philosopher) for daring to call himself the Head of the French Republic.
+His hatred of Power was only equalled by his aversion to the English,
+whom he seemed to abhor from the bottom of his heart, so much so, that<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_48" id="page_48">[48]</a></span>
+when I attempted to defend the First Consul, he dashed out with a
+Torrent of abuse, and ended by saying, "Et enfin c'est lui qui a fait la
+paix avec l'Angleterre."</p>
+
+<p>I was for some time in doubt what part of the Revolution he preferred,
+but by defending Robespierre, he soon gave me an Idea of his Love of
+Liberty, Morality, Equality, and so forth. I was sorry he retired so
+soon after Supper, as I never was more entertained in my life in so
+short a time as with this little Fellow, as singular in his Figure and
+Dress as in his Manner, and he contrived to be always eating as well as
+talking.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his brother J, T. Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span style="margin-right: 3em;"><i>Argonauta</i>, <span class="smcap">off Hy�res</span>,</span><br />
+<i>Sept. 29, 1802.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Brother,</span>&mdash;Before I left Geneva I firmly intended writing to you,
+but as I left it unexpectedly and sooner than I intended I had not time,
+but this, and all my adventures till I left it, I hope you have already
+heard, as I wrote two letters, one to my Father, the other to my Mother
+before I quitted Geneva. You will no doubt be Surprised, and perhaps
+envy my present situation. Where do you think I am? Why, truly, writing
+on a cot between two 24-pounders in a Spanish 84. You will wonder, I am
+sure, at seeing the date of this letter, and perhaps wish to know by
+what good fortune I found a berth in a Spanish man-of-war,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_49" id="page_49">[49]</a></span> an Event
+which I little expected when I wrote last. I shall begin my story from
+Geneva, and you shall hear my adventures to the present moment. We left
+Geneva in a Vetturino for Turin, a Journey which took up 8 days longer
+than it naturally should have done, but our Coachman was taken ill, &amp; we
+were on his account obliged to travel slowly. But I was not impatient,
+as you will know the Scenery is beautiful; we crossed Mount Cenis,
+which, after St. Bernard's, cannot be called a difficult pass. At Turin
+we stayed 3 days. It is now a melancholy Town, without commerce, &amp;
+decreasing daily in population. The celebrated Jourdan<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> is the ruler
+of the place, &amp; with his wife lives in the King's Palace. From Turin we
+went to Genoa, passing through Country not equal in Scenery, but
+infinitely more interesting than that between Geneva &amp; Turin, every step
+almost having been the scene of battle, and every Town the Object of a
+siege. But the most interesting spot of all was the plain of Marengo,
+near Alessandria. As we travelled in the Diligence I had not so good an
+opportunity of viewing it as I should have had in a Vetturino, but we
+stopped a short time to see the monument which is raised to commemorate
+the victory; it <span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_50" id="page_50">[50]</a></span>is erected near 2 remarkable spots, one where Desaix<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a>
+fell, the other the House from which Buonaparte wrote an account of the
+event to the Directory.</p>
+
+<p>We passed also thro' Novi, every House in which is marked by Shot; that
+unfortunate Town has been three times pillaged during the war. We
+arrived at Genoa on the 10th of Septr., in my opinion the most
+magnificent Town for its size I ever saw. The Palaces are beyond
+conception beautiful, or rather were, for the French Troops are not at
+this moment admitted within the Gates; they are quartered in the Suburb
+in great numbers. As for the new Government, it is easily seen who is at
+the head of it. There is a Doge, to be sure, but his orders come all
+from Paris. While we were waiting there expecting a ship to sail to
+Barcelona, the <i>Medusa</i>, English Frigate, came in, and amongst its
+passengers who came with her we found a Cambridge acquaintance, who
+advised us to go without delay to Leghorn as the Spanish Squadron was
+waiting there for the King of Etruria<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> in order to carry him to
+Barcelona. Fortunately the next day an English Brig was going, &amp; in her
+we took our passages; we were fortunate enough to receive a large packet
+of letters from England a few hours before she sailed, which had she
+sailed at the time the Captain intended we should have missed. Will you
+let my sisters know that they arrived safe? I<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_51" id="page_51">[51]</a></span> am not without hopes of
+making some use of the interesting letters to Italy, tho' I am now
+steering to the westward. After a good passage of two days we arrived at
+Leghorn and found the Spaniards still there. As soon as I landed I
+delivered a letter to a Mr. Callyer, a Liverpool Gentleman who is
+settled there, &amp; by his means was introduced to the Admiral's first
+Lieut., who promised to secure me a berth in some of the ships. In
+short, here I am in a very fine ship, tho' a horrid sailer. I have now
+given you a short sketch of my tour till arriving at Leghorn; I have
+only to say something of Leghorn and the <i>Argonauta</i>. The Town has
+suffered very much by the war, supported nearly as it was by its
+Commerce with England. The inhabitants saw with little pleasure a French
+army take possession of the place &amp; drive away the English. They still
+have a strong force in the town&mdash;upwards of 2,000&mdash;and its
+fortifications have been dismantled. It is singular enough to see the
+French and Tuscan colours flying together on the same staff. When we
+entered the port the Tuscan Ensign was becalmed &amp; the French flag was
+flying <i>by itself</i>. I was much grieved not to be able to visit Florence
+when so near it, but as the Squadron was in daily expectation of sailing
+I did not venture to be absent for 4 days, which the Journey would have
+required. I was therefore obliged to content myself with a view of Pisa,
+which I would not have missed on any account. The leaning Tower is a
+curiosity in itself sufficient<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_52" id="page_52">[52]</a></span> to induce a stranger to make a long
+journey to visit it. Here the King of Etruria lived and was hourly
+expected to set out for Leghorn. But his health, as it was believed, was
+in so precarious a State that it was sometimes reported that he would
+not go at all. The Queen, indeed, was in a very critical state, and were
+it not that her children, she being an Infanta of Spain, are entitled to
+a certain sum of money by no means small, provided they were born in
+Spain, it would have been madness in her to have undertaken the voyage;
+indeed, I think it highly probable that a young Prince will make his
+appearance ere we arrive at Barcelona. After having spent a longer time
+than I liked at Leghorn, which has nothing curious to recommend it, at
+length it was given out that on the 26th the K. would certainly arrive
+from Pisa and embark as soon as possible. Accordingly at 6 o'Clock on
+that day all the houses were ornamented in the Italian style by a
+display of different coloured Streamers, etc., from the windows, &amp; His
+Majesty entered the Town. Had I been a King I should have been not
+altogether pleased with my reception. He appeared in the Balcony of the
+Grand Duke's Palace, no one cried, "Viva Ludovico I!" He went to the
+Theatre the same Evening, which was illuminated on the occasion, &amp;, of
+course, much crowded. I do not think our opera could have boasted a
+finer display of Diamonds than I saw that Evening in the Ladies' heads,
+but, be it remembered, that there are 7,000 Jews in Leghorn,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_53" id="page_53">[53]</a></span> not one of
+whom is poor; some are reported to be worth a million. Many of the
+Italians are also very rich. Next day we were informed that it was
+necessary to repair on board our ship, as the King was to go early on
+the 20th. The Naval Scene received an addition on 26th by the arrival of
+2 French frigates from Porto Ferrajo. They had carried a fresh garrison
+there &amp; landed 500 men of the former one at Leghorn; they marched
+immediately, as it was said, to garrison Florence. On the 27th the
+Spaniards and French, the only ships of war in the roads, saluted, were
+manned and dressed. At Eleven o'Clock of the 27th (after having again
+seen the K. at the Opera) in the Launch of the <i>Argonauta</i> we left
+Leghorn &amp; went on board, for the first time in my life, to spend I hope
+many days in so large a ship. She was one of that unfortunate Squadron
+which came forth from Cadiz to convey home Adl. Linois<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> &amp; his prize
+the <i>Hannibal</i>, after our unsuccessful attack in Algeciras bay. This
+Ship suffered little; she was then a better sailer than she is now,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_54" id="page_54">[54]</a></span> or
+most probably she would not be at present in the Service of Spain. Early
+on the morning of the 28th the Marines were on the deck. It blew fresh
+from the shore, &amp; it was doubted whether the K. would venture; at 8
+o'Clock, however, the Royal barge was seen coming out of the Mole. The
+Admiral's Ship, <i>La Reyna Louisa</i>, gave the signal &amp; at the instant
+Every Ship fired 3 royal salutes. The Effect was very beautiful; we were
+the nearest to the Admiral, nearer the land were the 2 other Spanish
+frigates, &amp; abreast of us the two French Ships. They were all dressed,
+and as the King passed near them they were manned and three cheers were
+given. The King's boat came first, then the Queen's. After them followed
+the Consuls of the different Nations who were at Leghorn, &amp; after them a
+boat from each of the Ships. There were besides a great number of other
+boats &amp; Ships sailing about. Soon after the King had arrived on board
+the <i>Reyna Louisa</i>, of 120 guns, the Signal was made for preparing to
+Sail, &amp; soon after the Signal for Sailing. We all got under weigh, but
+as our Ship was a bad sailer we had the mortification of seeing
+ourselves left far behind in a short time. We have had nothing but light
+winds ever since, &amp; for the last two days contrary, but I am not in the
+smallest degree impatient to get to Barcelona. The Novelty of Scene,
+more especially as it is a naval one, pleases me more than anything I
+have met with hitherto. We are, however, now (Oct. 3rd) looking out for
+land.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_55" id="page_55">[55]</a></span> Cape Sebastian will be the point we shall first see in Spain, &amp; I
+much fear that to-morrow night I shall sleep in Barcelona. Of the
+Discipline of the Spanish Navy I cannot say much, nor can I praise their
+cleanliness. I wish much to see a storm. How they manage then I do not
+know, for when it blows hard the sailors will not go aloft; as for the
+officers or Midshipmen, they never think of it. Indeed, the latter live
+exactly as well as the officers; they mess with them, have as good
+berths, &amp; are as familiar with them as they are with each other; very
+different in every respect from the discipline in English Men of War. I
+shall write another letter to my sisters by this post; as they are at
+Highlake you may exchange letters. Soon I shall write to you again. I
+have to thank you for a very long letter which I received at Geneva,
+chiefly relating to the proper judgement of paintings. I am not yet
+quite a convert, but experience may improve me. In Spain I understand I
+shall see some very good ones by the first masters. I fear much that my
+desire of visiting Spain will not be so keen as it was when I have seen
+a very little of it. By all accounts, even from Spaniards themselves,
+travelling is very inconvenient, &amp; what is infinitely worse, very
+expensive; added to which the intolerable Suspicion &amp; care of the
+Government renders any stay there very unpleasant. In case I find myself
+not at my ease there I shall, when at Gibraltar, take a passage back to
+Italy, for Rome &amp; Naples must be seen. Now I think of it I must<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_56" id="page_56">[56]</a></span> mention
+one ship well known to you which I saw at Leghorn, namely, the <i>John of
+Leith</i>. I accidentally saw her boat with the name written; you may be
+sure I looked at her with no small pleasure.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> When I sought for her
+next day she was gone. I little thought when I last saw you to see a
+ship in which you had spent so much time, up the Mediterranean. I am
+learning Spanish at present, &amp; the progress I have made in it is not the
+least pleasure I have received during my stay in the <i>Argonauta</i>. It is
+a language extremely difficult to understand when spoken, but easy to
+read, &amp; very fine. I can already understand an easy book. If I can add
+Spanish &amp; Italian, or some knowledge of those languages, to my stock, I
+shall consider my time and money as well spent, independent of the
+Countries I shall have seen. Before I close this letter, which you will
+receive long after its original date, I must tell you I have been making
+a most interesting visit to the celebrated Lady of Mont Serrat,<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> &amp;
+was even permitted to kiss her hand, an honour which few, unless well
+recommended, enjoy. I have not time to say so much of it as I could, I
+can only assure you that it fully answered the expectations I had
+raised. The singular Scenery and the more singular Customs of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_57" id="page_57">[57]</a></span> its
+solitary inhabitants, excepting the monks of the convent, who lead a
+most merry, sociable life, are well worth the trouble of going some
+distance to visit. The formation of the mountain is also very
+extraordinary. Entirely pudding stone, chiefly calcarious, some small
+parts of quartz, red granite, &amp; flint only to be found. I have preserved
+some pieces for your museum, which I hope will arrive safe in England,
+as also the small collection of stones which I sent from the Alps.</p>
+
+<p class="yours">
+Yours sincerely,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Edwd. Stanley.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Malaga</span>, <i>Jan., 1803</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Father</span>,&mdash;To this place am I once more returned, after having
+made an excursion to the far-famed city of Granada and still more
+renowned palace of the Alhambra. My last letter was dated from Gibraltar
+on the 17th of Decr. We left the Rock in a Vile Tartan,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> rendered
+still less agreeable by belonging to Spaniards, who, at no time
+remarkable for cleanliness, were not likely to exert themselves in that
+point in a small trading Vessel. We were crowded with Passengers and
+empty Casks&mdash;both Equally in the Way; tho' the latter were not then
+noisy nor Sick, I considered them as the least nuisance. Fortunately a
+strong W. Breeze soon carried us from the Rock, and in one night we
+found ourselves close to the Mole of Malaga. We introduced ourselves on
+landing to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_58" id="page_58">[58]</a></span> the English Consul Laird, to whose attentions we have been
+since much indebted. On the 2nd day after our arrival we heard of a
+Muleteer who was on his return to Granada, and with whom we agreed for 3
+Mules. The distance is 18 leagues over the Mountains, a Journey of 3
+days; this is a Country wild as the Highlands of Scotland, and in parts,
+if possible, more barren. The first night we slept at Vetey Malaga and
+the 2nd at Alhama, a Town famous for its hot baths, which, thanks to the
+Moors&mdash;who built walls about them&mdash;the Spaniards still enjoy. The
+accommodations in the Country are rather inferior to those of England,
+tho' perhaps you may consider me so prejudiced in favour of my own, and
+therefore unjust in my accounts of other Countries. This may be the
+Case, and I dare say a Muleteer would find infinite fault with an
+English Inn, where accommodation may be found for the Rider as well as
+the Mule. On entering one of these Ventas, or Inns, you find yourself in
+the Midst of Jack Asses and Mules, the necks of which, being usually
+adorned with bells, produce a Music highly entertaining to a traveller
+after a long day's Journey over these delightful roads. If you can force
+your way through this Crowd of Musical Quadrupeds it is necessary that
+you should attempt to find out the Landlord and petition for a room,
+which in general may be had, and if you are fortunate, Mattrasses are
+laid on the floor. Eating, however, is always out of the question. It is
+absolutely necessary to carry<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_59" id="page_59">[59]</a></span> your own Stock and look for your self if
+a frying Pan can be found. If you are very much tired and the Bugs,
+Mosquitos, Fleas, and other insects (sent into the World, I believe, to
+torment Mankind) are also tired or satiated with sucking the Blood from
+the Travellers the preceding night, you may chance to sleep till 3
+o'clock in the Morning, when the Carriers begin to load their beasts and
+prepare for the day's Journey. The pleasure of travelling is also
+considerably diminished by the numbers of Crosses by the road side,
+which, being all stuck up wherever a murder has been committed, are very
+unpleasant hints, and you are constantly put in mind of your latter End
+by these confounded Monuments of Mortality. Fortunately, we met with no
+Tromboners on the road, and hitherto we have saved the Country the
+Expence of Erecting 3 Crosses on our account. At last we arrived at
+Granada, the 3rd Town in Spain in Extent, being surpassed only by
+Seville and Toledo. You will, I suppose, expect a long account of the
+Alhambra and Romantic Gardens of the Generalife, a minute account of the
+curiosities in the City and a long string of etceteras relative to the
+place. You must, however, remain in ignorance of all these things till
+we meet, as at present I have neither time or inclination or paper
+sufficient to repeat my adventures and observations: suffice it to say
+that on the whole I was much disappointed both with the Alhambra and
+Granada, which are I cannot say lasting Monuments, for they are falling
+fast to ruin. Of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_60" id="page_60">[60]</a></span> the Indolence and negligence of the people, you will
+scarcely believe that so large a Town so near the sea, and situated in
+one of the finest vales in Spain, is almost without Trade of any
+Sort&mdash;neither troubling itself with importations or exerting its powers
+to provide Materials for Exportation. The Capt. Genl., however, is doing
+all he can to restore it to its former dignity, and were he well
+seconded, Granada might again hope to become one of the brightest
+ornaments of Spain. We returned by way of Loja and Antiquiera on the
+27th of Decr., and have been wind bound ever since, and likely to be for
+another Month&mdash;sure never was a wind so obstinate as the present. We
+have here, I believe, quite formed a party to visit another quarter of
+the Globe&mdash;a short trip to Africa is at present in agitation. A Capt.
+Riddel from Gibraltar is one of the promoters, and if we can get to
+Gibraltar in any decent time you may possibly in my next letter hear
+some account of the Good Mahometans at Tangiers. We are but to make a
+short Stay and carry our Guns and dogs, as we are told the Country is
+overrun with game of every sort. I have been most agreeably surprised in
+finding Malaga a very pleasant place: we have met with more attention
+and seen more Company here than we ever did in Barcelona. I am this
+Evening going to a Ball; unfortunately Fandangos are not fashionable
+dances, but they have another called the Bolero, which in grace and
+Elegance stands unrivalled, but would scarcely be admitted in the less<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_61" id="page_61">[61]</a></span>
+licentious circles of our N. Climate. I shall take lessons at Cadiz, and
+hope to become an adept in all those dances before I see you. If you
+write within a fortnight&mdash;and of course you will after receiving
+this&mdash;you may still direct to Cadiz. There has been a disturbance at
+Gibraltar, which was hatching when we were there, and during our absence
+has Broken out. The many strange reports and particulars which have
+reached Malaga&mdash;as I cannot vouch for their truth, I shall not Mention;
+the Grand point, however, was to put his Royal H. on board of a Ship and
+send him back to England. There has been also a desperate gale of Wind
+in the Straights&mdash;3 Portuguese Frigates, one with the loss of her
+rudder, were blown in here. Some Vessels, I understand, were also lost
+at the Rock. I hope our little brig, <i>ye Corporation</i>, with the young
+pointers has arrived in the Thames in spite of the constant Gales and
+contrary Winds which we met with. I was sorry when the Wind became fair
+and the Rock appeared ahead. My taste for salt Water is not at all
+diminished by Experience. It is no doubt a strange one, but there is no
+accounting for these things, you know. Malaga is warm enough&mdash;we have
+Green Peas and Asparagus every day. But we experienced very severe
+Weather at Granada&mdash;Frost and Snow. The baths of the Alhambra were even
+covered with Ice an Inch Thick. Adieu! this is Post Day.</p>
+
+<p class="yours">
+Loves to all,<br />
+Yours Sincerely,<br />
+<span style="margin-left: 5em;">E. S.</span><br />
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_62" id="page_62">[62]</a></span>
+</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Gibraltar</span>, <i>Jan. 22, 1803</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Brother</span>,&mdash;I promised in my last, which I wrote when I was on the
+point of Setting out on a tour to Granada, to write again and give some
+account of myself immediately on my return, which was delayed on account
+of Sundry unfortunate Circumstances till the day before yesterday. From
+Malaga I wrote to my Father, and you probably have heard that a fair
+wind carried us in a vile vessel from this place to Malaga in one night,
+from whence, staying as Short a time as possible, I set out on mules to
+Granada, distant a journey of three days. Till this time I had never,
+excepting from hearsay, formed a true idea of the perfection to which
+travelling in Spain could be carried, and yet, bad as it was, my return
+to land from Gibraltar has shown that things might be a degree worse. Of
+the roads I can only say that most probably the Spaniards are indebted
+to the Moors for first marking them out, and that the present race
+follow the steps of their Ancestors, without troubling themselves with
+repairs or alterations of any description. You may well then imagine the
+delicate State in which they now are. The Ventas or Inns are in a State
+admirably corresponding to that of the high-roads. Provisions of every
+sort must necessarily be carried unless the traveller wishes to fast;
+beds are occasionally, and indeed I may say pretty generally, to be met
+with, such as they are; of course, bugs, fleas, Mosquitos, and so forth
+must not be considered:<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_63" id="page_63">[63]</a></span> they are plentifully diffused over the Country,
+and are by no means confined to the inferior houses. With a Substitution
+for "Pallida Mors" the quotation from Horace may with truth be applied,
+"aequo pulsant pede pauperum tabernae, Regum turres." We passed thro'
+Alhama, near which are some very fine hot baths; the exact heat I could
+not ascertain (as my thermometer was actually jolted to pieces tho' in
+its case in my pocket, travelling from Turin to Genoa), but it is so
+great that I could scarcely keep my hand immersed for a minute. In
+another Country they would be much frequented; as it is there are only
+some miserable rooms for those who repair to them from necessity. On the
+evening of the 21st of December we arrived at our Journey's end, and
+found, what we did not expect, a very tolerable Inn, though as Granada
+is considered the third Town in Spain, those who are unacquainted with
+the country might expect a better. I have so much to say that I cannot
+enter into a minute account of the famous Palace of the Alhambra and
+other Curiosities in the Town, which is most beautifully situated at the
+foot of a range of snow-covered Mountains at the extremity of what is
+said to be the most luxuriant and delightful valley in Spain. I hope for
+the credit of the Inhabitants that it is not so, as certainly it is in a
+disgraceful state of Cultivation, and were it not for the Acqueducts
+erected by the Moors for the convenience of watering the land would, I
+fear, in a few years be burnt up by the intense heat of summer. Its
+chief<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_64" id="page_64">[64]</a></span> produce is Corn and oil; silk and Wine are also cultivated, but
+the cold of winter sometimes injures the two latter. The place is badly
+peopled and has no trade; it is chiefly supported by being the chief
+criminal port of Spain, and the richest people are consequently the
+Lawyers. We saw the baths of Alhambra in a state very different from
+what they usually are&mdash;actually frozen over and the Ice nearly an Inch
+thick. I must say I was greatly disappointed with these famed remains of
+Moorish Magnificence, tho' certainly when everything was kept in order,
+the fountains all playing, it must have been very different; at present
+it is falling fast to ruin. The Governor is a man appointed by the
+Prince of Peace,<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> and I believe would be unwilling to bestow any
+attention on anything in the world but his own person, of which by all
+accounts he takes special care. We returned to Malaga through Loja and
+Antequerra, both Moorish towns. At Malaga we were detained by Contrary
+winds for three weeks; we might, indeed, have passed our time less
+advantageously at other places, as we experienced much unexpected
+Civility &amp; saw a great deal of Spanish Society. Wearied at length with
+waiting for Winds, we determined to set out on our return to the Rock by
+land, and accordingly hired 4 horses, and, under the most favourable
+auspices, left Malaga. We soon found that even a Spanish sky could not
+be trusted; it began before we had completed half our first day's
+journey to pour with rain. To return<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_65" id="page_65">[65]</a></span> was impossible, as we had forded
+the first river. In short, for three days we suffered Every
+Inconvenience which can be conceived, but were still to meet with
+another disappointment, for on the Morning of the day in which we had
+certainly calculated to arrive at Gibraltar we came to a River which was
+so much swelled that the Boatman could not ferry us over. Nearly a
+hundred Muleteers and others were in the same predicament, and we had
+the satisfaction of passing two most miserable days in a horrid Cortigo,
+a house of <i>accommodation</i> a degree lower than a Venta. Our provisions
+were exhausted, and nothing but bread and water were to be met with.
+Beds, of course, or a room of any sort were unobtainable. Conceive to
+yourself a kitchen filled with smoke, without windows, in which were
+huddled together about forty of the lowest order of Spaniards. As it
+poured with rain we could not stir out, and as for staying within doors
+it was scarcely possible. If we tried to sleep we were instantly covered
+with fleas and other insects equally partial to a residence on the human
+body. After two days' penance, as the waters began to abate, we
+determined to cross the river in a small boat and proceed on foot, which
+we did, and though we had to skip thro' 2 or 3 horrible streams and wade
+thro' Mud and Marshes we performed the journey lightly, as anything was
+bearable after the Cortigo del rio Zuariano. We passed through St. Roque
+and the Spanish lines and arrived at Gibraltar on 20th, out of patience
+with the Spaniards and everything<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_66" id="page_66">[66]</a></span> belonging to Spain. Indeed, the
+Country is a disgrace to Europe. I wish indolence was the only vice of
+the inhabitants, but added to laziness they are in general mean in their
+ideas, the women licentious in their manners, and both sexes sanguinary
+to a degree scarcely credible. In Malaga particularly, few nights pass
+without some murders. Those who have any regard for their safety must
+after dark carry a sword and a lantern. You may form some idea of the
+people when there was one fellow at Granada who had with his own hand
+committed no less than 22 Murders. Nothing could be more gratifying to
+an Englishman than finding wherever he goes the manufactures of his own
+Country. This in Spain is particularly the case; there is scarcely a
+single article of any description which this people can make for
+themselves, consequently English goods are sure of meeting with a quick
+sale. Perhaps it may be from prejudice, but certainly the idea I had of
+England before I left it has been raised many degrees since I have had
+an opportunity of comparing it with other countries. But now for some
+news respecting Gibraltar itself, which has during my absence been a
+scene of Confusion, first by a dreadful gale of wind, and secondly from
+a much more serious cause, a spirit of Mutiny in the Garrison. By the
+former 16 or 18 vessels were either lost or driven on shore; by the
+latter some lives were sacrificed before tranquillity was restored, and
+3 men have since suffered death by the Verdict of a Court Martial.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_67" id="page_67">[67]</a></span> No
+doubt you will see something of it in the papers; I cannot now enter
+into a detail as it would take some time. The 2 Regts. principally, and
+I believe I may say only, concerned were the Royals, which is the
+Duke's<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> own Regt., and the 25th; fortunately they did not act in
+concert. The other Regts. of the Garrison, the 2nd, 8th, 23rd, and 54th,
+particularly the latter, behaved well. The design was to seize the Duke
+and put him on board a ship and send him to England. He is disliked on
+account of his great severity: whether he carries discipline to an
+unnecessary degree military men know better than myself. Despatches have
+been sent to England, and I believe some of the men concerned; the
+greatest anxiety prevails to know what answers or orders will be
+returned. Of War and the rumours of War, tho' we it seems are nearer the
+scene of action than those who dwell at home, little is known, and what
+little is seems to be more inclined to peace than the English papers
+allow. It is here said, on what grounds I know not, that the Spaniards
+have entirely ceded Minorca to their good neighbours the French. We have
+but a small Naval force<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_68" id="page_68">[68]</a></span> in the bay; and a few frigates and ships of
+war, one of the latter the <i>Bittern</i>, I believe, arrived yesterday from
+England, but without any particular news. Many gun boats were fitting
+out at Malaga, but I was informed they were only meant for "Guarda
+Costas," which may or not be the truth. We sailed for Cadiz the moment
+an E. wind would give us leave; it has now blown almost constantly a W.
+wind for three months, and the season has been remarkably wet. I am
+impatient to get to Cadiz as I expect certainly to find letters, the
+receipt of which from home is, I think, the greatest pleasure a
+traveller can experience. Of Louisa's<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> marriage I have as yet not
+heard, tho' no doubt, however, it has taken place. How are my Nephews
+and Nieces? I do indeed look forward with pleasure to my next visit to
+Alderley. Remember it is now nearly 2 years since I have seen you; how
+many things have happened in the time to yours most sincerely</p>
+
+<p class="yours"><span class="smcap">Edwd. Stanley.</span></p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his brother J. T. Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Gibraltar</span>, <i>January 16, 1803</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">My Dear Brother</span>,&mdash; ... I shall pass over the greater part of the rest of
+your long letter &amp; proceed without further delay to talk of myself. The
+last time you heard from me I think was soon after I<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_69" id="page_69">[69]</a></span> arrived in
+Barcelona; what occurred during my stay there you have most probably
+heard from my sisters, as I wrote to Highlake just before I left that
+place. I consider myself as extremely fortunate in being at Barcelona
+during a time when I had a better opportunity of seeing the Court of
+Spain and the different amusements of the Country than I could have
+witnessed by a much longer residence even in Madrid itself. I was,
+however, unfortunately only a Spectator; as no regular English Consul
+had arrived in Barcelona, I had no opportunity of being introduced
+either at Court or in the first Circles. Another difficulty also was in
+my way; unfortunately I was not in the Army &amp; consequently had no
+uniform, without which or a Court dress no person is considered as a
+Gentleman in this Country. I have repeatedly regretted that before I
+left England I did not put my name down on some Military list, &amp; under
+cover of a red Coat procure an undisputed right to the title of
+Gentleman in Spain.</p>
+
+<p>As for the people, both noble and vulgar, it requires but a very short
+residence amongst them to be highly disgusted; few receive any thing
+which deserves the name of a regular Education, &amp; I have been told from,
+I believe, undoubted Authority, that a nobleman unable to write his
+name, or even read his own pedigree, is by no means a difficult thing to
+meet with. The Government is in such a State that ere long it must fall,
+I should think. The King is entirely under the power of the Prince of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_70" id="page_70">[70]</a></span>
+Peace,<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> a man who from being a common Corps de Garde has risen by
+degrees, &amp; being naturally ambitious &amp; extremely avaricious has gained a
+rank inferior only to that of the King, &amp; a fortune which makes him not
+only the richest man in Spain but probably in Europe. He is disliked by
+every Class of people, &amp; it is not, I believe, without good ground that
+he is considered as little better than a tool of Buonaparte's.</p>
+
+<p>The conduct of France to Spain in many particulars, which are too
+numerous now to mention, shews in what a degraded state the latter
+is&mdash;how totally unable to act or even think for herself. One instance I
+need only mention, tho' I do not vouch for the truth of it, further than
+as being a report current in the Garrison. The French have <i>kindly</i>
+offered to send 4,000 troops to Minorca in order to <i>take care</i> of it
+for yr good friends the Spaniards, and a Squadron is fitting out at
+Toulon to carry them there. After your alarming account of the naval
+preparations in the three kingdoms you will expect that I, who am here
+in the centre of everything, should be able to tell you a great deal;
+you will, therefore, be surprised when you are informed that yours is
+almost the only account of another war which I have heard of. A Strong
+Squadron, indeed, of 6 line of Battle Ships some time ago sailed with
+sealed orders and went aloft, but where is unknown. From Barcelona, as
+it was utterly impossible to get<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_71" id="page_71">[71]</a></span> to Madrid on account of the King
+having put an Embargo on every Conveyance, which is easily done as the
+Conveyances are bad as the roads and difficult to meet with, as well as
+enormously dear, we determined to steer for Gibraltar by Sea, and
+accordingly took passage on an English brig, which was to stop on the
+Coast for fruit we took on board. The Voyage was uncommonly long, and we
+met with every Species of weather, during which I had the pleasure of
+witnessing a very interesting Collection of Storms, with all the
+concomitant circumstances such as Splitting Sails and Shipping Seas, one
+of which did us considerable mischief, staving in all the starboard
+quarter boards, filling and very nearly carrying away the long-boat,
+drowning our live Stock, and, of course, ducking us all on deck most
+thoroughly. We stayed a week at Denia, a small but beautiful Town on the
+south part of the K. of Valencia. We were fortunately put on shore here
+in the night of December 6th. I say fortunately, as in consequence of a
+very strong Levanter the Captn. was for some hours in doubt whether he
+should not be under the necessity of running through the straits and
+carrying us to England, which was very near happening. Italy I have
+quite given up for the present. Rome and Naples I lament not to have
+seen, but you know that from Leghorn I turned to the westward in
+Compliance with Hussey's wish, who was anxious to be near Lisbon. We
+have some idea of going from this place thro' Malaga to Granada, and
+soon after we return proceed to Cadiz,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_72" id="page_72">[72]</a></span> and after making some excursions
+from thence go on to Lisbon. Your letter which you promised to send to
+Madrid will, I fear, never reach me, tho' I have still hopes of paying
+that Capital a visit. At Lisbon I shall arrive, I should think, about
+March, and hope to be in England about May, or perhaps sooner. At Lisbon
+I hope to find a letter from you; the direction is Jos. Lyne &amp; Co. I
+have been very unfortunate in not finding some friends in the Garrison,
+the only officer to whom I had a letter whom I found here has been of
+little Service to us. I have, however, made the best use of my time and
+have been over the greatest part of this extraordinary Fortress, but
+shall leave the description of it, as well as of an infinity of other
+things, till we meet, which shall be very soon after my arrival in
+England. I must send this instantly or wait for the next Post day, so I
+shall conclude rather hastily. My best Love to Mrs. S. and Believe me,</p>
+
+<p class="yours">
+Yours sincerely,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Edwd. Stanley.</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 344px;">
+<a name="image073" id="image073"></a>
+<a href="images/073.jpg">
+<img src="images/073_th.jpg" width="344" height="550" alt="Lord Sheffield
+Walker &amp; Boutall, ph. sc." title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_73" id="page_73">[73]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II</h3>
+
+<p class="head">AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL</p>
+
+<p class="contents">News of the Emperor's fall&mdash;Foreign plans&mdash;Disquieting
+rumours&mdash;Madame de Sta�l&mdash;London in an uproar&mdash;Emperors and
+Kings&mdash;Hero-worship at close quarters.</p>
+
+<p class="c">1814.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">T</span><b>HE</b>
+sudden rupture of the Peace of Amiens in May, 1803, closed France to
+Englishmen, except to the miserable eight or nine thousand who were in
+the country at the time, and were forcibly detained there by orders of
+the First Consul. It was not until eleven years later, in April, 1814,
+when Napoleon had abdicated, and when the allies had triumphantly
+entered Paris and restored Louis XVIII. to the throne of his fathers,
+that peaceful British travellers could cross the frontier once more.</p>
+
+<p>The busy parish life which had occupied Edward Stanley during the years
+which had elapsed since his first visit to France had not made him less
+keen for travel than he had been in his college days, and all his ardour
+was aroused by the news that there was to be an end to Napoleon's rule.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_74" id="page_74">[74]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The excitement caused by the rumour of the capture of Paris and the
+deposition of the Emperor may be guessed at by a letter received at
+Alderley from Lord Sheffield, father of Lady Maria Stanley, in the
+spring of 1814.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Letter from Lord Sheffield.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Portland Place</span>, <i>April 6, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...I am just come from the Secretary of State's Office. We are all
+gasping for further intelligence from Paris, but none has arrived since
+Capt. Harris, a very intelligent young man who was despatched in half an
+hour after the business was completed, but of course cannot answer half
+the questions put to him. He came by Flanders, escorted part of the way
+by Cossacks, but was stopped nearly a day on the road. Schwartzenberg
+completely out-generalled Buonaparte. An intercepted letter of the
+latter gave him notice of an intended operation. He instantly decided on
+the measures which brought on the capture of Paris. I suppose you know
+that King Joseph sent the Empress and King of Rome previously to
+Rambouillet. It is supposed that Buonaparte has fallen back to form a
+junction with some other troops. A friend of Marshal Beresford's<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a> has
+just called here who lately had a letter from the Marshal which says
+that he is quite sure that Soult has not 15,000 men left, and that in
+sundry engage<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_75" id="page_75">[75]</a></span>ments and by desertion he has lost about 16,000 men. I
+have no letter from Sir Henry<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> or William Clinton<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> since I saw
+you, but I learn at the War Office that the latter was, on the 20th of
+last month, within ten days' march of the right wing of Lord
+Wellington's army.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 45%;" />
+
+<p>Further news soon followed, and the authentic accounts of the Emperor's
+abdication at Fontainebleau on April 11th, and of his banishment to
+Elba, made it certain that his power was broken.</p>
+
+<p>The Rector of Alderley was eager to seize the chance of viewing the
+wreck of Napoleon's Empire while the country was still ringing with
+rumours of battles and sieges, and he began to make plans to do so
+almost as soon as the French ports were open.</p>
+
+<p>His wife was as keen as himself, and it was at first suggested that Sir
+John and Lady Maria, as well as Mrs. Edward Stanley, should join the
+expedition; but the difficulties of finding accommodation, and the fears
+of the disturbed state of the country, made them abandon the idea, to
+their great disappointment.</p>
+
+<p>The following extracts from the correspondence of Lady Maria Stanley
+explain the reasons for the journey being given up by herself and her
+sister-in-law.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_76" id="page_76">[76]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>They describe the feeling in England on the foreign situation, and also
+give a glimpse of the wayward authoress, Madame de Sta�l, who was just
+then on her way back to France after a banishment of ten years.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Lady Maria Stanley to her sister, Lady Louisa Clinton.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Alderley Park</span>, <i>April 30, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>So the Parisian expedition is at an end for us, in convention, that is,
+for I think Edward will brave all difficulties, and with Ed. Leycester,
+taking Holland first on his way, make a fight for Paris if possible; but
+all who know anything on the subject represent the present difficulties
+as so great, and the probable future ones so much greater, that Kitty
+(Mrs. Ed. Stanley) has given up all thought of making the attempt this
+year.</p>
+
+<p>Lodging at Paris is difficult to be had, and there are even serious
+apprehensions of a scarcity of provisions there. Moreover, the wise ones
+would not be surprised if things were in a very unsettled and, perhaps,
+turbulent state for some months. This is Miss Tunno's information,
+confirmed by other accounts she has had from Paris.</p>
+
+<p>Madame Moreau's<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> brother means to return to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_77" id="page_77">[77]</a></span> prepare for her
+reception and the mode of travelling, and when all is arranged to come
+again to fetch her.</p>
+
+<p>There seems every reason to think another year preferable for a trip,
+especially as I have been making the same melancholy reflections as Cat.
+Fanshawe,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> and feared there would not be one clever or agreeable
+person left in London a Twelve-month hence; my only comfort is the
+expectation that House rent will be very cheap, and that the said Cat.
+will be better disposed to take up with second best company for want of
+perfection, and that we may have more of her society.</p>
+
+<p>...All you say of the French nobility and their feelings is very true;
+but if they return with the sentiment that all the Senate who wish for a
+good constitution are "des coquins," which I very much suspect, I shall
+consider the emigrants are the greatest "coquins" of the two sets.</p>
+
+<p>Surely, all the very bad Republicans and terrorists are exterminated. I
+should like to see a list of the Constituent Assembly, with an account
+of what has become of each. I have been reading all the accounts we have
+of the Revolution from the beginning. When I begin I am as fierce a
+Republican as ever, and think no struggle too much for the purpose of
+amending such a government or such laws. By the time I come to /93,
+how<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_78" id="page_78">[78]</a></span>ever, one begins to hesitate, but I rejoice most heartily the old
+times are not restored, and hope Louis means to be sincere and
+consistent with his good beginning.</p>
+
+<p>I return the "Conte de Cely," which is very entertaining and
+interesting, as no doubt speaking the sentiments of all the old
+nobility. I do not think France has seen the end of her troubles
+entirely. It is impossible the Senate and the Emigrants can sit down
+quietly together, but the former&mdash;the Marshals and the Generals&mdash;would
+be formidable if they had reason given them to doubt the security of
+Louis' acceptation of the Constitution. If the Bourbons share the
+sentiments of their nobles, will you not give me leave to think they are
+too soon restored?</p>
+
+<p>Miss Tunno is very intimate with Mdme. Moreau and a cousin of hers. All
+her accounts have been conformable with yours.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Lady Louisa Clinton to her sister, Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p>To-day I sat an hour with Cat. Fanshawe, and was highly amused by the
+account she gave of Mme. de Sta�l bolting up to her while standing
+speaking to Lord Lansdowne and some others at Mrs. Marcet's,<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> and
+saying, "I want to be acquainted with you. They say you have written a
+minuet. I<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_79" id="page_79">[79]</a></span> am not a judge of English poetry, but those who are told me
+it is very good. Is it printed?" This intolerable impertinence, which,
+however, she probably meant for condescension, so utterly overset Cat.,
+that she could find not a word to say, and treated the overture so
+coldly that nothing more came of it.</p>
+
+<p>I exhort Cat. to recollect that the woman was so notorious for excessive
+ill-breeding, that no particular affront was intended, and hoped she
+would not continue coy, as I long to hear something of this Lioness from
+one who can judge.</p>
+
+<p>Hitherto I have had no such luck. I hear the most exaggerated statements
+of the Baroness's absurdities, or of the necessity of her being one of
+every literary party.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Letter from Miss Catherine Fanshawe, after meeting Lord Byron and
+Mme de Sta�l at Sir Humphry and Lady Davy's.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>Early Spring, 1814.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I have just stayed in London long enough to get a sight of the last
+imported lion,<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> Mme de Sta�l; but it was worth twenty peeps through
+ordinary show-boxes, being the longest and most entertaining dinner at
+which I ever in my life was present. The party being very small, her
+conversation was<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_80" id="page_80">[80]</a></span> for the benefit of all who had ears to hear, and even
+my imperfect organ lost little of the discourse&mdash;happy if memory had
+served me with as much fidelity; for, had the whole discourse been
+written without one syllable of correction, it would be difficult to
+name a dialogue so full of eloquence and wit. Eloquence is a great word,
+but not too big for her. She speaks as she writes; and upon this
+occasion she was inspired by indignation, finding herself between two
+opposite spirits, who gave full play to all her energies. She was
+astonished to hear that this pure and perfect constitution was in need
+of radical reform; that the only safety for Ireland was to open wide the
+doors which had been locked and barred by the glorious revolution; and
+that Great Britain, the bulwark of the World, the Rock which alone had
+withstood the sweeping flood, the ebbs and flows of Democracy and
+Tyranny, was herself feeble, disjointed, and almost on the eve of ruin.
+So, at least, it was represented by her antagonist in argument, Childe
+Harold, whose sentiments, partly perhaps for the sake of argument, grew
+deeper and darker in proportion to her enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p>The wit was his. He is a mixture of gloom and sarcasm, chastened,
+however, by good breeding, and with a vein of original genius that makes
+some atonement for the unheroic and uncongenial cast of his whole mind.
+It is a mind that never conveys the idea of sunshine. It is a dark night
+upon which the lightning flashes. The conversation between<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_81" id="page_81">[81]</a></span> these two
+and Sir Humphry Davy,<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> at whose house they met, was so animated that
+Lady Davy<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> proposed coffee being served in the eating-room; so we did
+not separate till eleven. Of course we had assembled rather late. I
+should not say "assembled," for the party included no guests except Lord
+Byron and myself in addition to the "Sta�l" quartette....</p>
+
+<p>As foreigners have no idea that any opposition to Government is
+compatible with general obedience and loyalty, their astonishment was
+unbounded. I, perhaps I only, completely relished all her reasonings,
+and I thought her perfectly justified in replying to the pathetic
+mournings over departed liberty, "Et vous comptez pour rien la libert�
+de dire tout cela, et m�me devant les domestiques!" She concluded by
+heartily wishing us a little taste of real adversity to cure us of our
+plethora of political health.</p>
+
+
+<p class="top5">In consequence of the difficulties and dangers anticipated in the above
+letters Edward Stanley finally decided to take as his only travelling
+companion his young brother-in-law, Edward Leycester, who was just
+leaving Cambridge for the Long Vacation.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Stanley accompanied her husband and brother as far as London, in
+order to see the fes<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_82" id="page_82">[82]</a></span>tivities held in honour of the State visit of the
+Allied Sovereigns to England in June, on their way from the Restoration
+ceremonies in France.</p>
+
+<p>Her letters to her sister-in-law during this visit describe some of the
+actors in the great events of the last few months and the excitement
+which pervaded London during their stay.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. Edward Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">London,</span> <i>Friday, June 13, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Edward went for his passport the other day, and was told he must go to
+the Alien Office, being taken for a Frenchman....</p>
+
+<p>I forgot yesterday to beg Sir John would write Edward an introduction to
+Lord Clancarty,<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> and anybody else he can think of at Paris or the
+Hague, and send them to him as soon as possible.</p>
+
+<p>We have been Emperor<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> hunting all morning. No, first we went to Mass
+with Miss Cholmondeley, and heard such music!</p>
+
+<p>Then with her to the Panorama of Vittoria, and since then we have been
+parading St. James's Street and Piccadilly. Oh! London for ever! Edward
+saw a whiskered man go into a shop, followed him, and accosted him, and
+it was a man just arrived with despatches for the Crown Prince, who was
+thankful to be shewn his way. There was a gentleman came up to talk to
+Miss Cholmondeley, <span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_83" id="page_83">[83]</a></span>and he had been living in the house with Lucien
+Bonaparte.<a name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 368px;">
+<a name="image082" id="image082"></a>
+<a href="images/082.jpg">
+<img src="images/082_th.jpg" width="368" height="550" alt="H. Edridge A.R.A. Welt 1811 Emory Walker Ph. Sc.
+Kitty Leycester&mdash;married Edward Stanley 1810." title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>Then Edward was standing in Hatchard's shop, and he saw a strange bonnet
+in an open landau, and there was the Duchess of Oldenburg<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> and her
+Bonnet, and her brother sitting by her in a plain black coat, and he
+gave himself the toothache running after the carriage.</p>
+
+<p>He saw, or fancied he saw, a great deal of character in the Duchess's
+countenance. I just missed this, but afterwards joined Edward, and
+walked up and down St. James's Street, trusting to Edward's eyes, rather
+than all the assurances we met with, that the Emperor was gone to
+Carlton<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_84" id="page_84">[84]</a></span> House, and were rewarded by a sight of him in a quarter of an
+hour, which had sufficed him to change his dress and his equipage, and a
+very fine head he has. Such a sense of bustle and animation as there is
+in that part of the town! You and Sir John may, and I daresay will,
+laugh at all the amazing anxiety and importance attached to a glimpse of
+what is but a man after all; but still the common principles of sympathy
+would force even Sir John's philosophy to yield to the animating throng
+of people and carriages down St. James's Street, and follow their
+example all the time he was abusing their folly.</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>June 13, 1814.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>At half-past ten we started for the illuminations, and nearly made the
+tour of the whole town from Park Lane to St. Paul's in the open
+barouche.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot conceive a more beautiful scene than the India House; they had
+hung a quantity of flags and colours of different sorts across the
+street; the flutings and capitals of the pillars, and all the outlines
+of the buildings, marked out with lamps, so that it was much more like a
+fairy palace and a fairy scene altogether than anything else.</p>
+
+<p>The flags concealed the sky, and formed such a fine background to the
+brilliant light thrown on all the groups of figures.</p>
+
+<p>We did not get home till daylight. There was nothing the least good or
+entertaining in the way of inscriptions and transparencies, except a
+"Hosanna to Jehovah, Britain, and Alexander."<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_85" id="page_85">[85]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>Wednesday, June, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Where did we go to be made fools of by the Emperor yesterday for four
+hours? We went with Miss Tunno, got introduced to a gentleman's tailor
+in Parliament Street, and looked out of his window; saw a shabby coach
+and six pass, full of queer heads, one of which was so like the prints
+of Alexander, and bowed so like an Emperor, that I must and will
+maintain it to have been him till I can receive positive proof that it
+was not. We saw, too, what they said was Bl�cher, but we could hear or
+see nothing but that something was wrapped up in furs. However, Edward
+was more fortunate, and came in for the real bows which the real Emperor
+made from the Pulteney Hotel window, and you and Sir John may laugh as
+you please at all the trouble we have taken to see&mdash;nothing.</p>
+
+<p>Nevertheless, though I was well disposed to kiss the Emperor and Prince,
+and all who contributed to disappoint the public expectation, it is
+certainly entertaining and enlivening to be in expectation of meeting
+something strange every corner you turn and every different report you
+hear. The Emperor has gone out this morning to look about at half-past
+nine, long before the Prince Regent called.</p>
+
+<p>They say he will sail in one of his own ships from Leith and may pass
+through Manchester. But after all, it is something like what Craufurd
+described being in Paris, to be hearing yourself in the midst<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_86" id="page_86">[86]</a></span> of a
+great bustle with your eyes shut and unable to see what was going on
+round you.</p>
+
+<p>We talk of Monday se'enight for our separation. There is so much to be
+seen if one could but see it here, that Edward is in no hurry to be
+off....</p>
+
+<p>At Lady Cork's the other night Bl�cher was expected. Loud Huzzas in the
+street at length announced him, the crowd gathered round the door, and
+in walked Lady Caroline Lamb<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> in a foreign uniform! This I had from
+no less authentic and accurate a source than Dr. Holland, who was an
+eye-witness. She had been at the party in female attire, and seeing Lady
+Cork's anxiety to see the great man, returned home and equipped herself
+to take in Lady C. and Co.</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>Monday, 8 a.m., June 16th.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Yesterday, after Church, we went to the Park. It was a beautiful day,
+and the Emperor may well be astonished at the population, for such a
+crowd of people I could not have conceived, and such an animated crowd.
+As the white plumes of the Emperor's guard danced among the trees, the
+people all ran first to one side and then to the other; it was
+impossible to resist the example, and we ran too, backwards and forwards
+over the same hundred yards, four times, and were rewarded by seeing the
+Ranger of the Forest, Lord Sydney, who<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_87" id="page_87">[87]</a></span> preceded the Royal party, get a
+good tumble, horse and all. We saw Lord Castlereagh almost pulled off
+his horse by congratulations and huzzahs as loud as the Emperor's, and a
+most entertaining walk we had.</p>
+
+<p>We dined at Mr. Egerton's. Mr. Morritt<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a> rather usurped the
+conversation after dinner, but I was glad of him to save me from the
+history of each lady's adventures in search of the Emperor or the
+illuminations. The Opera must have been a grand sight; it seems
+undoubted that the Emperor and Prince Regent, and all in the Royal box,
+rose when the Princess of Wales came in and bowed to her&mdash;it is supposed
+by previous arrangement. Lord Liverpool<a name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a> declared that he would
+resign unless something of the sort was done.</p>
+
+<p>One man made forty guineas by opening his box door and allowing those in
+the lobbies to take a peep for a guinea apiece. We made an attempt on
+Saturday to get into the pit, but it was quite impossible. I would not
+for the world but have been here during the fever, although what many
+people complain of is very true, that it spoils all conversation and
+society, and in another day or two I shall be quite tired of the sound
+or sight of Emperors.</p>
+
+<p>The merchants and bankers invited the Emperor to dinner; he said he had
+no objection if they would promise him it should not exceed
+three-quarters of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_88" id="page_88">[88]</a></span> an hour, on which Sir William Curtis lifted up his
+hands and exclaimed, "God bless me!"</p>
+
+<p>He is tired to death with the long sittings he is obliged to undergo.
+The stories of him quite bring one back to the "Arabian Nights," and
+they could not have chosen a more appropriate ballet for him than "Le
+Calife Voleur."</p>
+
+<p>If he stayed long enough, he might revolutionise the hours of London.</p>
+
+<p>I was close to Bl�cher yesterday, but only saw his back, for I never
+thought of looking at a man's face who had only a black coat on.</p>
+
+<p>You may safely rest in your belief that I do not enjoy anything I see or
+hear without telling it to you, and you are quite right in your
+conjecture as to what your feelings would be here.</p>
+
+<p>I have thought and said a hundred times what a fever of impatience
+disappointment, and fatigue you would be in.... You are also right in
+supposing that you know as much or more of the Emperor than I do, for
+one has not the time nor the inclination to read what one has the chance
+of seeing all the day long, and it is so entertaining that I feel it
+quite impossible to sit quiet and content when you know what is going
+on.</p>
+
+<p>One person meets another: "What are you here for?" "I don't know. What
+are you expecting to see?" One says the Emperor is gone this way, and
+another that way, and of all the talking couples or trios that pass you
+in the street, there are not two where the word "Emperor" or "King" or<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_89" id="page_89">[89]</a></span>
+"Bl�cher" is not in one, if not both mouths; and all a foxhound's
+sagacity is necessary to scent him successfully, for he slips round by
+backways and in plain clothes.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>June 17, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>We were in high luck on Sunday in getting a private interview with the
+Cossacks, through some General of M.'s acquaintance. We saw their horses
+and the white one, 20 years old, which has carried Platoff<a name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a> through
+all his engagements. They are small horses with very thick legs. The
+Cossacks themselves would not open the door of their room till luckily a
+gentleman who could speak Russian came up, and then we were admitted.</p>
+
+<p>There were four, one who had been thirty years in the service, with a
+long beard and answering exactly my idea of a Cossack; the others,
+younger men with fine countenances and something graceful and
+gentleman-like in their figure and manner. They were very happy to talk,
+and there was great intelligence and animation in their eyes. No wonder
+they defy the weather with their cloaks made of black sheepskin and
+lined with some very thick cloth which makes them quite impenetrable to
+cold or wet. Their lances were 11 feet long, and they were dressed in
+blue jacket and trousers confined round the waist with a leather belt,
+in<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_90" id="page_90">[90]</a></span> which was a rest for the lance. I envied their saddles, which have a
+sort of pommel behind and before, between which is placed a cushion, on
+which they must sit most comfortably. We must see them on horseback to
+<i>have seen</i> them, but we shall probably have an opportunity of seeing
+them again.</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>June 18, 1814.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>On returning from Miss Fanshawe's we saw a royal carriage in George
+Street at Madame Moreau's, and we waited to see the Emperor and the
+Duchess (of Oldenburg) get into the carriage. He was in a plain blue
+coat; she without her curious bonnet, so that I had a good view of her
+face, which I had the satisfaction of finding exactly what I wished to
+see. The extreme simplicity of her dress&mdash;she had nothing but a plain
+white gown and plain straw hat, with no ornament of any sort&mdash;and her
+very youthful appearance made me doubt whether it was really the
+Duchess; but it was.</p>
+
+<p>She is very little, and there is a strong expression of intelligence,
+vivacity, and youthful, unsophisticated animation in her countenance. I
+fancied I could see so much of her character in the brisk step with
+which she jumped into the carriage, and the unassuming, lively smile
+with which she bowed to the people.</p>
+
+<p>The Emperor looks like a gentleman&mdash;but a country gentleman, not like an
+Emperor. His head is very like R. Heber's. The Duchess allowed<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_91" id="page_91">[91]</a></span> herself
+to be pleased and to express her pleasure at all the sights without the
+least restraint. She asks few questions, but those very pertinent. She
+is impatient at being detained long over anything, but anxious to
+silence those who would hence infer that she runs over everything
+superficially, without gaining or retaining real knowledge.</p>
+
+<p>At Woolwich she was asked if she would see the steam-engines. "No, she
+had seen them already, and understood them perfectly." As they passed
+the open door she turned her head to look at the machinery, and
+instantly exclaimed, "Oh, that is one of Maudesley's engines," her eye
+immediately catching the peculiarity of the construction.</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>June 22, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>In the middle of Edward's sermon at St. George's to-day somebody in our
+pew whispered it round that there was the King of Prussia<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> in the
+Gallery. I looked as directed, and fixed my eyes on a melancholy,
+pensive, interesting face, exactly answering the descriptions of the
+King, and immediately fell into a train of very satisfactory reflection
+and conjecture on the expression of his physiognomy, for which twenty
+minutes afforded me ample time. The King was the only one I had not
+seen, therefore this opportunity of studying his face so completely was
+particularly valuable. When the prayer after the sermon was concluded,
+my informer said the King was gone, when, to my utter disappoint<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_92" id="page_92">[92]</a></span>ment, I
+beheld my Hero still standing in the Gallery, and discovered I had
+pitched upon a wrong person, and wasted all my observations on a face
+that it did not really signify whether it looked merry or sad, and
+entirely missed the sight of the real King, who was in the next pew.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing but his sending to offer Edward a Chaplaincy in Berlin for his
+excellent sermon can possibly console me, except, indeed, the <i>honour by
+itself</i> of having preached before a King of Prussia, which can never
+happen again in his life.</p>
+
+<p>...The Duchess of Oldenburg took all the merchants by surprise the other
+day. They had no idea she was coming to their dinner; she was the only
+lady, and she was rather a nuisance to them, as they had provided a
+hundred musicians, who could not perform, as she cannot bear music.<a name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a>
+She was highly amused at the scene and with their "Hip! Hip!"</p>
+
+
+<p class="date"><span class="smcap">Monday</span>, <i>June 23, 1814</i>.</p>
+
+<p>At our dinner Mr. Tennant came in late, with many apologies, but really
+he had been hunting the Emperor&mdash;waiting for him two hours at one place
+and two hours at another, and came away at last without seeing him at
+all.</p>
+
+<p>He said, in his dry way, that "Have you seen the Emperor?" has entirely
+superseded the use of "How do you do?"<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_93" id="page_93">[93]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the morning he had gone into a shop to buy some gloves, and whilst he
+was trying them on the shopman suddenly exclaimed, "Bl�cher! Bl�cher!"
+cleared the counter at a leap, followed by all the apprentices, and Mr.
+Tennant remained soberly amongst the gloves to make his own selection,
+for he saw nothing more of his dealers.</p>
+
+<p>Rooms are letting to-day in the City at 60 guineas a room, or a guinea a
+seat for the procession. Tickets for places to see it from White's to be
+had at Hookham's for 80 guineas; 50 have been refused.</p>
+
+<p>Your letter revived me after five hours' walking and standing, and
+running after reviews, &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>I did see the King of Prussia, to be sure, and the Prince, and the
+people climbing up the trees like the grubs on the gooseberry bushes,
+and heard the <i>feu de joie</i>, whose crescendo and diminuendo was very
+fine indeed, but altogether it was not worth the trouble of being tired
+and squeezed for.</p>
+
+<p>At the reception at Sir Joseph Banks's house last night the most
+interesting object of the evening was a sword come down from heaven on
+purpose for the Emperor! Let the Prince Regent and his garters and his
+orders, and the merchants and the aldermen and everybody hide their
+diminished heads! What are they and their gifts to the Philosophers'?</p>
+
+<p>This is literally a sword made by Sowerby from the iron from some
+meteoric stones lately fallen&mdash;of course in honour of the Emperor. There
+is an<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_94" id="page_94">[94]</a></span> inscription on it something to this effect, but not so neat as
+the subject demanded, and it is to be presented to Alexander&mdash;who does
+not deserve it, by the by, for having entirely neglected Sir Joseph
+amongst all the great sights and great men, which has rather mortified
+the poor old man.</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">London</span>, <i>Monday night</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>They are off, and in spite of all my friends' predictions to the
+contrary, I am here.</p>
+
+<p>Edward went this morning to Portsmouth on his way to Havre, but the
+Havre packet is employed in pleasuring people up and down to see the
+ships. Not a bed is to be had in the place, so he has secured his berth
+in the packet, if he can find her, and get on board at night after her
+morning's excursions.</p>
+
+<p>Standing room is to be had in the streets for three shillings; seats are
+putting up in and for two miles out of the town; all the laurels cut
+down to stick upon poles; in short, everybody is madder there than in
+London.</p>
+
+<p>Can the English ever be called cool and phlegmatic again? It is really a
+pity some metaphysicianising philosopher is not here to observe,
+describe, and theorise on the extraordinary symptoms and effects of
+enthusiasm, curiosity, insanity&mdash;I am sure I do not know what to call
+it&mdash;en masse.</p>
+
+<p>One should have supposed that the great objects would have swallowed up
+the little ones. No such<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_95" id="page_95">[95]</a></span> thing! they have only made the appetite for
+them more ravenous.</p>
+
+<p>The mob got hold of Lord Hill<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> in the Park at the review, and did
+literally pull his coat and his belt to pieces. He snatched off his
+Order of the Bath, and gave it to Major Churchill, who put it in the
+holster of his saddle, where he preserved it from the mob only by
+drawing his sword and declaring he would cut any man's hand off who
+touched it. Some kissed his sword, his boots, his spurs, or anything
+they could touch; they pulled hair out of his horse's tail, and one
+butcher's boy who arrived at the happiness of shaking his hand, they
+chaired, exclaiming, "This is the man who has shaken hands with Lord
+Hill!" At last they tore his sword off by breaking the belt and then
+handed it round from one to another to be kissed.</p>
+
+<p>My regret at not having been at White's is stronger than my desire to go
+was; it must have been the most splendid and interesting sight one could
+ever hope to see.</p>
+
+<p class="top5">On Friday, June 27th, Edward Stanley and Edward Leycester finally set
+off and sailed from Portsmouth, all gay with festivities in honour of
+the Allied Sovereigns.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Stanley was left to spend the time of their absence at her father's
+house in Cheshire, but the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_96" id="page_96">[96]</a></span> keen interest with which she would have
+shared the journey was not forgotten by her husband.</p>
+
+<p>The events of the tour were minutely chronicled in his letters to her,
+and not only in letters, but in sketch books, filled to overflowing with
+every strange group and figure which met the travellers on their way,
+through countries which had been, although so near, prohibited for such
+a long time that they had almost the interest of unknown lands.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Stoke,</span> <i>July 4, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...That my curiosity may not catch cold in the too sudden transition
+from exercise to inaction, the Shropshire and Cheshire Heroes have
+followed me down here, and I have had the pleasure of seeing and hearing
+of the crowds going to touch (for that is the present fashion of seeing,
+or, to speak philosophically, <i>mode</i> of <i>perception</i>) Lord Hill; and
+yesterday I met Lord Combermere and his Bride at Alderley, and a worthy
+Hero he is for Cheshire!</p>
+
+<p>A folio from Havre just arrived. I am very noble, very virtuous, and
+very disinterested&mdash;pray assure me so, for nothing else can console
+me&mdash;it is too entertaining to send one extract.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_97" id="page_97">[97]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III</h3>
+
+<p class="head">UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG</p>
+
+<p class="contents">French prisoners&mdash;Oldenburg bonnets&mdash;"Fugio ut Fulgor"&mdash;Soldiers of
+the Empire&mdash;Paris&mdash;A French hotel&mdash;A walk through Paris&mdash;Portrait
+of Madame de Sta�l&mdash;An English ambassador&mdash;The Louvre&mdash;French
+tragedy&mdash;The heights of Montmartre&mdash;Cossacks in the Champs
+Elys�es&mdash;�900 for substitute&mdash;Napoleon's legacies to his
+successor&mdash;A dinner at the English Embassy&mdash;Botany and
+mineralogy&mdash;Party at Madame de Sta�ls&mdash;A debate in the Corps
+L�gislatif&mdash;Malmaison&mdash;Elbowing the marshals&mdash;St Cloud and
+Trianon&mdash;The Catacombs.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his Wife.</i></p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> I.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Havre,</span> <i>June 26, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">W</span><b>E</b>
+have passed the Rubicon&mdash;nous voil� en France, all new, interesting,
+and delightful. I know not where or how to begin&mdash;the observations of an
+hour were I to paint in Miniature would fill my sheet; however, you must
+not expect arrangement but read a sort of higgledy-piggledy journal as
+things run through my head. I must<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_98" id="page_98">[98]</a></span> pin them down like my Butterflies as
+they pass, or they will be gone for ever.</p>
+
+<p>At half-past four on Friday we sailed from Portsmouth, and saw the fleet
+in the highest beauty&mdash;amongst them all while they were under sail
+tacking, &amp;c.; the delay has not been lost time. I should observe before
+I quit the subject of Portsmouth events, that the Emperor could not find
+time to sail about for mere amusement two days, this he left to the P.
+R.<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> He (the Emperor) and the Duchess of Oldenburg occupied themselves
+in visiting the Dockyards, Machinery, Haslar Hospital&mdash;in short,
+everything worthy the notice of enlightened beings....</p>
+
+<p>Our passengers were numerous, about 25 in a vessel of as many tons, with
+only six what they called regular sleeping-places.... But I had no
+reason to complain, our party was in many respects excellent&mdash;one, a
+jewel of no ordinary value, by name Mr. John Cross, of whom I must
+enquire more. I have seldom met with a man of more general and at the
+same time deep information; he seemed perfect in everything. Mineralogy,
+Antiquities, Chemistry, literature, human nature were at his fingers'
+ends, and most gentlemanly manners into the bargain....</p>
+
+<p>Amongst others we had three French officers, prisoners returning home.
+They had not met before that evening, but had you heard their
+incomparable voices when they sang their trios, you would<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_99" id="page_99">[99]</a></span> have supposed
+they had practised together for years. Mr. John Cross alone surpassed
+them in their art. These gentlemen were certainly not <i>hostile</i> to
+Bonaparte, but to gratify their musical taste they stuck at
+nothing&mdash;"God save the King," "Rule Britannia," "The Downfall of Paris"
+were chaunted in swift succession, and the following commencement of one
+of their songs will show the popular opinion of Bonaparte's campaign in
+Russia:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Quel est le Monarque qui peut</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 4.5em;">Etre si fou</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Que d'aller � Moscou</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Pour perdre sa grande arm�e?"</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>A fair wind brought us in sight of the French coast early on Saturday.
+At 11 we were under the headland of Havre, and at 12 anchored in the
+bay, and were in an instant surrounded by chattering boatfuls who talked
+much but did nothing. On landing we were escorted to the Passport Office
+and most civilly received there; the difference, indeed, between public
+offices in England and France is quite glaring. Even the Custom house
+Officers apologised for keeping us waiting for the form of searching;
+and tho' the Underlings condescended to take a Franc or two, the Officer
+himself, when I offered money, turned away his head and hand and cried,
+"Ba, Ba, Non, Non," with such apparent sincerity that I felt as if I had
+insulted him by offering it....</p>
+
+<p>The whole process of getting our passports signed,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_100" id="page_100">[100]</a></span> &amp;c., being over, we
+went to an Hotel. "Ici, gar�on, vite mettez Messieurs les Anglois �
+l'onzi�me," cried a landlady&mdash;and such a landlady! and up we scampered
+to the 5th storey (there are more still above us) and to this said, "No
+onzi�me." ...</p>
+
+<p>We lost no time in the evening in looking about us; the town is situated
+about two miles up the Seine on a sort of Peninsula surrounded with very
+regular and strong fortifications. Its docks are incomparable, and
+Bonaparte would have added still more to their magnificence, but now all
+is at a stand&mdash;the grass is quietly filling up spaces hitherto taken up
+by soldiers, Workmen, shot and guns; the numberless merchant vessels in
+a state of decay proved sufficiently the entire destruction of all
+trade; but what gave me particular satisfaction was the sight of a
+flotilla of Praams, luggers, intended for the invasion of England, all
+reposing in a happy progress to speedy putrefaction and decay. About a
+mile from the town on the hill is a beautiful village called St. Michel,
+where the Havre citizens have country houses. The town itself is as
+singular as heart can wish&mdash;indeed, I am firmly convinced that the
+difference between the towns of the Earth and Moon is not greater than
+that between those of England and France. I scarcely know how to
+describe it to you. Conceive to yourself a long street of immensely tall
+houses from 5 to 8 Stories, <i>huddled</i>, for huddling is the only word
+which can convey my meaning, and in truth their extraordinary height and
+narrow breadth seem rather the effect of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_101" id="page_101">[101]</a></span> compression than design....
+These houses are inhabited by various families of various occupations
+and tastes, so that each Storey has its own peculiar character&mdash;here you
+see a smart Balcony with windows to the ground, garnished above and
+below with the insignia of washing woman or taylor. They are built of
+all materials, though I think chiefly of wood (like our old Cheshire
+houses) and stucco; and, thanks to time and the filth and poverty of the
+people, their exterior assumes a general tint of pleasing dirty
+picturesque. This said dirt may have its advantages as far as the eye is
+concerned, but the nose is terribly assailed by the innumerable
+compounded Effluvias which flow from every Alley-hole and corner. For
+the people and their dress! who shall venture to describe the things I
+have seen in the shape of caps, hats and bonnets, cloaks and petticoats,
+&amp;c.? There I meet a group of Oldenburg Bonnets broader and more loaded
+with flowers, bunches, bows, plumes than any we saw in London, and would
+you believe it I am already not merely getting reconciled but absolutely
+an admirer of them.</p>
+
+<p>Having passed the groups of bonnets I meet at the next moment a set of
+beings ycleped Poissardes, caparisoned with coverings of all sorts,
+shapes, and sizes&mdash;here flaps a head decorated with lappets like
+butterflies' wings&mdash;here nods a bower of cloth and pins tall and narrow
+as the houses themselves, but I must not be too prolix on any one
+particular subject.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_102" id="page_102">[102]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>Sunday.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>We have been to the great Church. It was full, very full, but the
+congregation nearly all female.</p>
+
+<p>There is certainly something highly imposing and impressive in that
+general spirit of outward devotion at least which pervades all ranks.
+Nothing can be finer than their music: we had a sermon, too, and not a
+bad one. The order of things is somewhat reversed. In England we wear
+white bands and black gown, here the preacher had black bands and white
+gown, and I fear the eloquence of St. Paul would not prevent the smiles
+of my hearers in Alderley Church were I to pop on my head in the middle
+of the discourse a little black cap of which I enclose an accurate
+representation.</p>
+
+<p>What shall I say of political feeling? I think they appear to think or
+care very little about it; the military are certainly dissatisfied and
+the Innkeepers delighted, but further I know not what to tell you; I am
+told, however, that the new proclamation for the more decent observance
+of Sunday, by forcing the Shopkeepers to shut up their shops during
+Mass, is considered a great grievance.....</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> II.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Rouen,</span> <i>June 28, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Foolish people are those who say it is not worth while to cross the
+water for a week. For a week! why, for an hour, for a minute, it would
+be worth the trouble&mdash;in a glance a torrent of news, ideas,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_103" id="page_103">[103]</a></span> feelings,
+and conceptions are poured in which are valuable through life. We staid
+at Havre till Monday morning, and though a Cantab friend of Edward's, on
+bundling into his cabriolet, expressed his astonishment we would think
+of staying a day, when he had seen more than enough of the filthy place
+in an hour, we amused ourselves very well till the moment of
+departure....</p>
+
+<p>At 4 on Monday we stepped into the cabriolet or front part of our
+diligence, on the panels of which was written "Fugio ut Fulgor," and
+though appearances were certainly against anything like compliance with
+this notice, the result was much nearer than I could have conceived.
+Five horses were yoked to this unwieldy caravan&mdash;two to the pole, and
+three before, and on one of these pole horses mounted a Driver without
+Stockings in Jack Boots, crack went an enormous whip, and away galloped
+our 5 coursers. It is astonishing how they can be managed by such simple
+means, yet so it was; we steered to a nicety sometimes in a trot,
+sometimes in a canter, sometimes on a full gallop.</p>
+
+<p>The time for changing horses by my watch was not more than one
+minute&mdash;before you knew one stage was passed another was commenced; they
+gave us 5 minutes to eat our breakfast&mdash;an operation something like that
+of ducks in a platter, the dish consisting of coffee and milk with rolls
+sopped in it. The roads are incomparable&mdash;better than ours and nearly if
+not quite as good as the Irish. The country from Havre to Rouen is rich
+in corn of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_104" id="page_104">[104]</a></span> every description&mdash;there is nothing particular in the face
+of it, and yet you would, if awakened from a dream, at once declare you
+were not in England; in the first place there are no hedges&mdash;the road
+was almost one continuous avenue of apple-trees; the timber trees are
+not planted in hedgerows but in little clumps or groves, sometimes but
+generally rather removed from the road, and it is amongst these that the
+villages and cottages are concealed, for it is surprising how few in
+comparison with England are seen. The trees are of two
+descriptions&mdash;either trimmed up to the very top or cut off so as to form
+underwood. I did not observe one that could be called a branching tree;
+the finest beech we saw looked like a pole with a tuft upon it. The
+cottages are mostly of clay, generally speaking very clean, and coming
+nearer to what I should define a cottage to be than ours in England.</p>
+
+<p>You see no cows in the fields, they are all tethered by the road-side or
+other places, by which a considerable quantity of grass must be saved,
+and each is attended by an old woman or child. We passed through 2 or 3
+small towns and entered Rouen 8 hours after quitting Havre, 57 miles.
+Rouen, beautiful Rouen, we entered through such an avenue of noble
+trees, its spires, hills and woods peeping forth, and the Seine winding
+up the country, wide as the Thames at Chelsea.</p>
+
+<p>Such a gateway! I have made a sketch, but were I to work it up for a
+month it would still fall far short and be an insult to the subject it
+attempts<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_105" id="page_105">[105]</a></span> to represent. If Havre can strike the eye of a stranger, what
+must not Rouen do? Every step teems with novelty and richness, Gothic
+gateways, halls, and houses. What are our churches and cathedrals in
+England compared to the noble specimens of Gothic architecture which
+here present themselves?... Rouen has scarcely yet recovered from the
+dread they were in of the Cossacks, who were fully expected, and all
+valuables secreted&mdash;not that they were absolutely without news from the
+capital: the diligence had been stopped only once during the three days
+after the Allies entered Paris. Till then they had proceeded <i>comme �
+l'ordinaire</i>, and the diligence in which we are to proceed to-night left
+it when Shots were actually passing over the road during the battle of
+Montmartre&mdash;how they could find passengers to quit it at such an
+interesting moment I cannot conceive; had I been sure of being eaten up
+by a Horde of Cossacks, I could not have left the spot.</p>
+
+<p>What an odd people the French are! they will not allow they were in
+ignorance of public affairs before the entrance of the Allies. "Oh no,
+we had the Gazettes," they say, and I cannot find that they considered
+these Gazettes as doubtful authorities. We have plenty of troops
+here&mdash;genuine veterans horse and foot; I saw them out in line yesterday.
+The men were soldier-like looking fellows enough, but one of our cavalry
+regiments would have trotted over their horses in a minute without much
+ceremony; the army is certainly dissatisfied. Mar<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_106" id="page_106">[106]</a></span>mont is held in great
+contempt; they will have it he betrayed Paris, and say it would be by no
+means prudent for him to appear at the head of a line when there was any
+firing. The people may or may not like their emancipation from tyranny,
+but their vanity&mdash;they call it glory&mdash;has been tarnished by the
+surrender of Paris, and they declare on all hands that if Marmont had
+held out for a day Bonaparte would have arrived, and in an instant
+settled the business by defeating the Allies. In vain may you hint that
+he was inferior in point of numbers (to say anything of the skill and
+merit of the Russians perhaps would not have been very prudent), and
+that he could not have succeeded. A doubting shake of the head,
+significant shrug of the shoulders, and expressive "Ba, Ba," explain
+well enough their opinions on the subject.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot conceive a more grating badge to the officers than the white
+cockade&mdash;the fleur de lys is now generally adopted in place of the N and
+other insignia of Bonaparte, but, excepting from some begging boys, I
+have never heard the cry of "Vive Louis XVIII.!" and then it was done, I
+shrewdly suspect, as an acceptable cry for the Anglois, and followed
+immediately by "un pauvre petit liard, s'il vous plait, Mons." We went
+to the play last night; the house was filthy beyond description, and the
+company execrable as far as dress went; few women, and those in their
+morning dress and Oldenburg Bonnets&mdash;the men almost all officers,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_107" id="page_107">[107]</a></span> and a
+horrid-looking set they were. I would give them credit for military
+talents; they all looked like chiefs of banditti&mdash;swarthy visages,
+immense moustachios, vulgar, disgusting, dirty, and ill-bred in their
+appearance.</p>
+
+<p>From all I hear the account of the duels between these and the Russian
+officers at Paris were perfectly correct.
+<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a>
+<a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a></p>
+
+<p>I am just come in from a stroll about the town. Among the most
+interesting circumstances that occurred was the inspection of
+detachments of several regiments quartered there. I happened to be close
+to the General when he addressed some Grenadiers de la Garde Imp�riale
+on the subject of their dismissal, which it seems they wanted. They
+spoke to him without any respect, and on his explaining the terms on
+which their dismissal could alone be had, they appeared by no means
+satisfied, and when he went I heard one of them in talking to a party
+collected round him say, "Eh bien, s'il ne veut pas nous cong�dier, nous
+passerons." A man standing by told me a short time ago a regiment of
+Imperial Chasseurs when called upon to shout "Vive Louis XVIII.!" at
+Boulogne, to a man, officers included, cried "Vive Napoleon!" and I feel
+very certain that had the same thing been required to-day from the
+soldiers on the field, they<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_108" id="page_108">[108]</a></span> would have acted in the same manner, and
+that the spectators would have cried "Amen."</p>
+
+<p>I heard abundance of curious remarks on the subject of the war, the
+peace, and the changes; they will have it they were not conquered. "Oh
+no." "Paris ne fut jamais vaincue&mdash;elle s'est soumise seulement!" I
+leave it to your English heads to define the difference between
+submission and conquest.</p>
+
+<p>Beef and mutton are 5d. per lb. here. Chickens 3s. the couple, though 24
+per cent. was probably added to me as an Englishman. Bread a 100 per
+cent. cheaper than in England&mdash;at least so I was informed by an
+Englishman in the commercial line. Fish cheap as dirt at Havre, 3 John
+Dorys for 6d.</p>
+
+<p>From Havre to Rouen, 57 miles, cost us �1 6s. for both; from thence to
+Paris, 107 miles, �2; our dinners, including wine, are about 4s. a head;
+breakfast 2s., beds 1s. 6d. each.</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> III.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>June 30th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Here we arrived about an hour ago; for the last two miles the country
+was a perfect garden&mdash;cherries, gooseberries, apple-trees, corn,
+vineyards, all chequered together in profusion; in other respects
+nothing remarkable....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image108" id="image108"></a>
+<a href="images/108.jpg">
+<img src="images/108_th.jpg" width="650" height="410" alt="OLD BRIDGE AND CH�TELET.
+Paris July 4, 1814
+To face p. 108." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">OLD BRIDGE AND CH�TELET.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -30%;">To face p. 108.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The first sight of Paris, or rather its situation, is about 10 miles
+off, when the heights of Montmartre, on one side, and the dome of the
+H�pital des<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_109" id="page_109">[109]</a></span> Invalides on the other reminded us of their trophies and
+disasters at the same time....</p>
+
+<p>Now you must enter our rooms in l'H�tel des Etrangers, rue du Hazard, as
+I know you wish to see minutely. First walk, if you please, into an
+antechamber paved with red hexagon tiles (dirty enough, to be sure), and
+the saloon also, into which you next enter through a pair of folding
+doors. This saloon is in the genuine tawdry French style&mdash;gold and
+silver carving work and dirt are the component features. It is about 20
+feet square, plenty of chairs, sofas of velvet, and so forth, but only
+one wretched rickety table in the centre. Two folding doors open into
+our bedroom, which is in furniture pretty much like the rest; the beds
+are excellent&mdash;fitted up in a sort of tent fashion&mdash;and mine has a
+looking-glass occupying the whole of one side, in which I may at leisure
+contemplate myself in my night-cap, for I cannot discover for what other
+purpose it was placed there.</p>
+
+<p>Now let us take a walk&mdash;put on thick shoes or you will find yourself
+rather troubled with the paving stones, for nothing like a flagged
+footpath exists; a slight inclination from each side terminates in a
+central gutter, from which are exploded showers of mud by the passing
+carriages and cabriolets. You must get on as you can; horse and foot,
+coaches and carts are jumbled together, and he who walks in Paris must
+have his eyes about him. The streets are in general narrow and
+irregular, and so much alike that it requires no small skill to find<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_110" id="page_110">[110]</a></span>
+one's way home again. Ariadne in Paris would wish for her clue. First we
+ascended the bronze column<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> in the Place de Vend�me&mdash;figure to
+yourself a column perfect in proportions much resembling Nelson's in
+Dublin, ornamented after the plan of Trajan's pillar&mdash;all of bronze, on
+which the operations of the wars and victories in Germany are recorded.
+Bonaparte's statue crowned it, but that was removed. The column itself,
+however, will remain an eternal statue commemorating his deeds, and
+though the Eagles and letter N are rapidly effacing from every quarter,
+this must last till Paris shall be no more. From the top of this pillar
+you of course have a magnificent view, and it must have been a choice
+spot from whence to behold the fight of Montmartre. It will scarcely
+interest you much to say much about the other public buildings, suffice
+it to say that all the improvements are in the very best
+style&mdash;magnificent to the last degree; they may be the works of a
+Tyrant, but it was a Tyrant of taste, who had more sense than to spend
+120,000 Louis in sky-rockets. His public buildings at least were for the
+public good, and were ornaments to his capital.</p>
+
+<p>But let us turn from inanimate to living objects; since I penned the
+last line I have been sitting with Mme. de Sta�l.... By appointment we<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_111" id="page_111">[111]</a></span>
+called at 12.<a name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> For a few moments we waited in a gaudy drawing-room;
+the door then opened and an elderly form dressed <i>� la jeunesse</i>
+appeared; she is not ugly; she is not vulgar (Edward begs to differ from
+this opinion, he thinks her ugly beyond measure); her countenance is
+pleasing, but very different from anything my fancy had formed; a pale
+complexion not far from that of a white Mulatto, if you will allow me to
+make the bull; her eyebrows dark and her hair quite sable, dry and crisp
+like a negro's, though not quite so curling. She scarcely gave me time
+to make my compliments in French before she spoke in fluent English. I
+was not sorry she fought under British colors, for though she was never
+at a loss, I knew I could express and defend myself better than had she
+spoken in French. I hurried her as much as decency would permit from one
+subject to another, but I found politics were uppermost in her
+thoughts.... She was equally averse to both parties&mdash;to the royal
+because she said it was despotism; the Imperial because it was tyranny.
+"Is there," said I, "no happy medium; are there none who can feel the
+advantages of liberty, and wish for a free constitution?" "None," said
+she, "but myself and a few&mdash;some 12 or 15&mdash;we are nothing; not enough to
+make a dinner party." I ventured to throw in a little flattery&mdash;I knew
+my ground<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_112" id="page_112">[112]</a></span>&mdash;and remarked that an opinion like hers, which had in some
+measure influenced Europe, was in itself an host; the compliment was
+well received, and in truth I could offer it <i>conscientiously</i> to pay
+tribute to her abilities.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Mme. de S. we paid another visit. From the greatest woman we
+went to see our greatest man in Paris, Sir Charles Stuart,<a name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> to whom
+Lord Sheffield had given me a letter of introduction. This had been sent
+the day before, and of course I now went to see the effect. After
+waiting in the Anti-chamber of the great man for about half an hour, and
+seeing divers and sundry faces pass and repass in review, we were
+summoned to an audience. We found a little, vulgar-looking man, whom I
+should have mistaken for the great man's butler if he had not first
+given a hint that he was bon� fide the great man himself. I think the
+conversation was nearly thus: E. S.: "Pray, Sir, are the Marshalls in
+Paris, and if so is it easy to see them?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I
+don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir, is there anything interesting to a
+stranger like myself likely to take place in the course of the next
+fortnight?" Sir C. S.: "Upon<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_113" id="page_113">[113]</a></span> my soul I don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir,
+is the interior of the Thuilleries worth seeing, and could we easily see
+the apartments?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." This, I do
+assure you, was the cream of the conversation. Now certainly a great man
+ought to look wise and say he does not know so and so, when in fact he
+knows all about it, but somehow or other I could not help thinking that
+Sir Charles spoke the truth, for if I may draw any inference from
+Physiognomy, I never saw a face upon which the character of "upon my
+soul I don't know" was more visibly stamped. I left my card, bowed, and
+retired....</p>
+
+<p>I next turned my eyes to the Louvre.<a name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> What are the exhibitions of
+London, modern or ancient? What are Lord Stafford's, Grosvenor's,
+Angerstein's, &amp;c., in comparison with this unrivalled gallery? Words
+cannot describe the coup d'&#339;il. Figure to yourself a magnificent room so
+long that you would be unable to recognise a person at the other
+extremity, so long that the perspective lines terminate in a point,
+covered with the finest works of art all classed and numbered so as to
+afford the utmost facility of inspection; no questions asked on
+entering, no money to be given to bowing porters or butlers, no cards of
+admission procured by interest&mdash;all open to the public view, unfettered
+and unshackled; the liberality of the exhibition is increased by the
+appearance of Easels and desks occupied by artists<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_114" id="page_114">[114]</a></span> who copy at leisure.
+It is noble and grand beyond imagination. In the Halls below are the
+Statues, arranged with equal taste, though, as they are in different
+rooms, the general effect is not so striking. I recognised all my old
+friends, the Venus de Medicis was alone new to me. She is sadly
+mutilated, but is still the admiration of all persons of sound judgment
+and orthodox taste, amongst whom, I regret to say, I deserve not to be
+classed, as I really cannot enter into the merits of statues, and the
+difference between a perfect and moderate specimen of sculpture appears
+to me infinitely less than between good and moderate paintings....</p>
+
+<p>After dining at a Restaurateur's, who gave us a most excellent dinner,
+wine, &amp;c., for about 3s. a head, we went to the Th��tre Fran�ais, or the
+Drury Lane of Paris. We expected to see Talma<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> in M�rope, but his
+part was taken by one who is equally famous, Dufour, and the female part
+by Mme. Roncour. She was intolerable, though apparently a great
+favourite; he tolerable, and that is all I can say. In truth, French
+tragedy is little to my taste.... The best part of the play was the
+opportunity it afforded "les bonnes gens" de Paris to show their
+loyalty, and much gratified I was in hearing some enthusiastic applause
+of certain passages as they applied to the return of their ancient
+sovereign. There is something very sombre and vulgar in the French
+playhouses with the men's boots and the women's bonnets. Could I in an
+instant<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_115" id="page_115">[115]</a></span> waft you from the solitudes of Stoke to the clatter of Paris,
+how you would stare to see the boxes filled with persons almost
+extinguished in their enormous casques of straw and flowers. I have seen
+several bearing, in addition to other ornaments, a bunch of 5 or 6
+lilies as large as life....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image115" id="image115"></a>
+<a href="images/115.jpg">
+<img src="images/115_th.jpg" width="650" height="383" alt="POMP. NOTRE DAME.
+Paris, July 11, 1814.
+To face p. 115." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">POMP. NOTRE DAME.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -30%;">To face p. 115.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> IV.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>July 8, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>You will take for granted we have seen all the exhibitions, libraries,
+&amp;c., of Paris; they will wait for more ample description&mdash;a glance on
+one or two will be sufficient.</p>
+
+<p>L'H�pital des Invalides was, you know, famous for its magnificent dome,
+which was decorated with flags, standards, and trophies of the
+victorious arms of France; impatient to shew them to Edward, I hastened
+thither, but alas, not a pennant remains. On the near approach of the
+Allies they were taken down, and some say burnt, others buried, others
+removed to a distance. I asked one of the Invalides whether the Allies
+had not got possession of a few. With great indignation and animation he
+exclaimed, "Je suis aussi s�r que je suis de mon existence qu'il n'out
+pas pris un <i>seul</i> m�me."</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday last, after having hunted everywhere for a Protestant church,
+one of which we found at last by some blunder quite empty, we went with
+our landlord, a serjeant in the national guard, to inspect the heights
+of Chaumont, Belleville, and Mt. Martre.... We ascended from the town
+for<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_116" id="page_116">[116]</a></span> about 3 miles to a sort of large rambling village, in situation and
+circumstances somewhat like Highgate. This was Belleville, whose heights
+run on receding from Paris a considerable distance, but terminate rather
+abruptly in the direction of Mont Martre, from which they are separated
+by a low, swampy valley containing all the dead horses, filth, and
+exuvious putrefactions of Paris.... Immediately below, extending for
+many miles, including St. Denis and other villages, are fine plains;
+upon which plains about 3 in the morning the Russians deployed, and the
+Spectacle must have been interesting beyond measure.... On the heights
+and towards the base were assembled part of Marmont's<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> army with
+their field pieces and some few heavier guns; there, too, were stationed
+the greater part of the students of l'Ecole Polytechnique, corresponding
+to our Woolwich cadets. Nothing could surpass their conduct when their
+brethren in arms fled; they clung to their guns and were nearly all
+annihilated. I was assured that their bodies were found in masses on the
+spot where they were originally stationed; their number was about
+300.... I met a few in the course of the day who were, like ourselves,
+contemplating the field of battle, and who spoke like the rest of their
+countrymen of the base<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_117" id="page_117">[117]</a></span>ness of Marmont and treachery of the day. The
+cannonade must have been pretty sharp while it lasted, as about 5,000
+Russians perished before they got possession of the heights&mdash;though the
+actual operation of storming did not occupy half an hour&mdash;but their
+lines were quite open to a severe fire of grape from eminences
+commanding every inch of the plain. Whilst this work was going on at
+Belleville, another Russian column performed a similar service at Mt.
+Martre, which is nearer Paris&mdash;in fact, immediately above the
+Barriers.... Thither our guide next conducted us, and pointed out the
+particular spots where the assault and carnage were most desperate. A
+number of Parties were walking about and all talking of the battle or
+Bonaparte.... Till this day I had never heard him openly and honestly
+avowed, but here I had several opportunities of incorporating myself in
+groups in which his name was bandied about with every invective which
+French hatred and fluency could invent. Their tongues, like Baron
+Munchausen's horn, seemed to run with an accumulated rapidity from the
+long embargo laid upon them. "Sacr� gueux, b�te, voleur," &amp;c., were the
+current coin in which they repaid his despotism, and I was happy to find
+that his conduct in Spain was by all held in utter detestation and
+considered as the ground work of his ruin.</p>
+
+<p>I saw one party in such a state of bodily and mental agitation that I
+ran up expecting to see a battle, but the multiplicity of hands, arms,
+and legs<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_118" id="page_118">[118]</a></span> which were rising, falling, wheeling, and kicking, were merely
+energetic additions to the general subject.... The National guard were
+not (with few exceptions) actually engaged. To the amount of 36,000 they
+occupied the towns and barriers, by all accounts guessing, or, as one
+intelligent conductor assured us, very certain that they would not be
+called upon to fight much for the defence of Paris.... Indeed, from all
+I have been able to learn, and from all I have been able to see, it
+appears pretty clear that no serious defence was intended&mdash;a little
+opposition was necessary for the look of the thing. And although Marmont
+might have done more, I feel convinced that had he exerted himself to
+the utmost, Paris must have perished.</p>
+
+<p>The heights were defended in a very inadequate and unsoldierlike manner;
+not a single work was thrown up before the guns, no entrenchments, no
+bastions, and yet with three days' notice all this might have easily
+been done. The barriers all round Paris were, and still are, hemmed
+round with Palisades with loop holes, each of which might have been
+demolished by half a dozen rounds from a 6-pounder; the French, indeed,
+laugh at them and consider them as mere divertissements of Bonaparte's,
+and feeble attempts to excite a spirit of defence amongst the people&mdash;a
+spirit which, fortunately for Europe, was never excited. The lads of
+Paris had determined to take their chance and not to do one atom more
+than they were called upon or compelled to do. These wooden barriers<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_119" id="page_119">[119]</a></span>
+are made of le bois de tremble (aspen), and the pun was that the
+fortifications "tremblaient partout." You will like to hear something of
+Edgeworth's friend, St. Jean d'Ang�ly;<a name="FNanchor_46_46" id="FNanchor_46_46"></a><a href="#Footnote_46_46" class="fnanchor">[46]</a> he came up to the barrier
+where our landlord (who had been formerly an imperial guardsman and
+fought in the battle of Marengo) was posted; here he called loudly for
+some brandy, for which he got laughed at by the whole line of guard; he
+then sallied forth and proceeded a short distance, when his horse took
+fright, and as St. Jean was, as our landlord told us, "enti�rement du
+m�me avis avec son cheval," they both set off as fast as they could, and
+were in a few minutes far beyond all danger, nor did they appear again
+amid the din of arms. The fate of Paris was decided with a rapidity and
+sang-froid quite astonishing. By 5 o'clock in the Evening all was
+entirely at an end, and the national guard and allies incorporated and
+doing the usual duty of the town. They were, indeed, under arms a little
+longer than usual, and a few more sentries were placed and the theatre
+not open that Evening, but that single evening was the only exception,
+and the next day the Palais Royal was as brilliant and more cheerful
+than ever, with its motley groups of visitors. The Cossacks were not
+quartered in the Palais Royal, they were in the Ch. Elys�es, the trees
+of which bear visible marks of their horses' teeth, but a good many came
+in from curiosity and hung their horses in the open space of the
+Palais....<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_120" id="page_120">[120]</a></span> The Russian discipline was most severe, and not an article
+was taken from any individual with impunity, immediate death was the
+punishment. The field of battle bore few marks of the event&mdash;a few
+skeletons of horses and rags of uniforms; the more surprising thing is
+that, notwithstanding all the trampling of horse and foot on the plains
+below so late as the end of March, the corn has not suffered in the
+slightest degree. I wish the Alderley crops were as good.</p>
+
+<p>You have no idea of the severity of the conscription. That men can be
+attached to a being who dragged them, with such violence to every
+feeling, from their homes would be astonishing, but for the well-known
+force of the "selfish principle" which amalgamates their glory with his.
+A friend of our landlord's paid at various times 18,000 fr., about �900;
+he thought himself safe, but Bonaparte wanted a Volunteer guard of
+honour; he was told it would be prudent to enroll himself, which in
+consideration of the great sums he had paid would be merely a nominal
+business, and that he would never be called upon. He did put his name
+down; was called out in a trice and shot in the next campaign. Our
+waiter at Rouen assured me his friends had bought him off by giving in
+the first instance �25 for a substitute, with an annuity to the said
+substitute of an equal sum&mdash;pretty well this, for a poor lad of about
+16.</p>
+
+<p>Thanks to our landlord and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we might have been
+introduced into the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_121" id="page_121">[121]</a></span> Thuilleries, but came too late. We lost nothing, as
+after Mass the King marched through a beautiful sort of Glass gallery
+facing the Thuilleries Gardens, and then came out into a Balcony to shew
+himself to the crowd there assembled! he was received with universal and
+loud applause. "Vive le Roi!" was heard as loud as heart could wish,
+hats, sticks and handkerchiefs were flying in all directions. When he
+entered Paris, in one of the Barriers a sort of Archway was made and so
+contrived that as the carriage passed under a crown fell upon it, a band
+at the same time striking up "O� peut on �tre mieux que dans le sein de
+sa famille," which is, you know, one of their favourite airs.</p>
+
+<p>Poor man, he has enough to do, and will, I fear, experience a turbulent
+reign. Bonaparte has left his troops 3 years in arrears, the treasury
+empty, two parties equally clamourous for places and pensions, both of
+which must be satisfied. Their taxes are heavier than I thought they
+were. Our landlord has an estate worth about 2,000 frcs., his father
+paid 200 fr. a year for it, and he is now under the necessity of paying
+1,200, having only a clear surplus of 800, and the finances are at too
+low an ebb to allow of any immediate reduction in their taxes....</p>
+
+<p>To take things in their course, I must now proceed to my dinner at Sir
+Charles Stuart's. I was shewn into a room where I found three or four
+Englishmen gaping at one another. Before many more had assembled, in
+came Sir C., and I <i>believe</i>,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_122" id="page_122">[122]</a></span> or rather I am willing to flatter myself,
+he made a sort of half bow towards us, and then we stood and gaped
+again; a few more words between him and one or two who were to go to
+Court the day after, but to me and some others not a syllable of any
+description was uttered, and when some more English were shewn in who
+were, I presume, as respectable as myself, his behaviour was quite
+boorish, he did not condescend to look towards the door. These things
+went on till a throng of Spaniards with Stars and orders came in; with
+these he appeared tolerably intimate, and also with three Englishmen who
+afterwards appeared. We were about 24 in number, and all I had to do in
+the half-hour preceding dinner was to look out for the most intelligent,
+gentleman-like-looking Englishman I could, to secure a place by him....</p>
+
+<p>You will ask who I met. I protest to you that I went and returned
+without being able to learn more than that the secretary's name was
+Bidwell, and that one other person in company was a Mr. Martin, who had
+been agent for prisoners; of the rest I knew nothing, not even of my
+neighbour; birth, parentage, and education were alike involved in the
+cloud of diplomatic mystery which seemed to impend heavily over this
+mansion, and when my neighbour asked me, or I asked him, the names of
+any person present the answer was mutual&mdash;"I don't know." Sir Charles
+sat in the centre with a gold-coated Don on each side of him, with whom
+he might have whispered, for though I sat<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_123" id="page_123">[123]</a></span> within two of his Excellency,
+I never heard the sound of his voice: however, my opinion may not
+coincide with all that pass from Calais to Dover, as I heard one man
+remark to another that his countenance was very pleasing, to which was
+added in reply, "and he is a very sensible man." These things may be,
+but I never met with one more perfect in the art of concealing his
+talents.</p>
+
+<p>Now for the Jardin des Plantes and its lectures. This same Jardin is a
+large space appropriated to Botanical pursuits, public walks,
+menageries, museums, &amp;c. There you see Bears and Lions and, in fact, the
+finest collection of Birds and Beasts alive, some in little paddocks,
+others in clean and airy dens. But this is the least part of this
+delightful establishment; its museums and cabinets are like the Louvre,
+the finest collection in the world. Everything is arranged in such order
+that it is almost impossible to see it without feeling a love of
+science; here the mineralogist, geologist, naturalist, entomologist may
+each pursue his favourite studies unmolested. Here, as everywhere else,
+the utmost liberality is shewn to all, but to Englishmen particularly,
+your country is your passport. Like the mysterious "Open Sesame" in the
+Arabian nights, you have only to say, "Je suis Anglais" and you go in
+and out at pleasure. I have seen Frenchmen begging in vain with ladies
+and officers of the party and turned away because they had happened on
+the wrong day or hour, and then we, without solicitation, have been
+desired to walk<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_124" id="page_124">[124]</a></span> in. But all these museums and living animals, curious
+and interesting as they are, are surpassed by the still greater
+liberality shewn in the daily lectures given by the members of the
+Institute or Professors of the several sciences. I have attended
+Haiiy,<a name="FNanchor_47_47" id="FNanchor_47_47"></a><a href="#Footnote_47_47" class="fnanchor">[47]</a> Dum�ril,<a name="FNanchor_48_48" id="FNanchor_48_48"></a><a href="#Footnote_48_48" class="fnanchor">[48]</a> l'Ettorel, du Mare, and others upon Mineralogy,
+Nat. Hist., and Entomology, and Haiiy, you know, is the first
+mineralogist in Europe, and I never looked upon a more interesting
+being. When he entered the lecture room, every one rose out of respect,
+and well they might. He is 80 years of age apparently, with a most
+heavenly patriarchal countenance and silver hair; his teeth are gone, so
+that I could not understand a word he said, though, indeed, had he been
+possessed of all the teeth in Christendom I apprehend I should not have
+been much wiser, as he lectured on the angular forms of the Amphiboles.
+He looked like a man picked out of a crystal, and when he dies he ought
+to be reincarnated and placed in his own museum.</p>
+
+<p>Another Scene to which I found my way was equally interesting: I went to
+a lecture on Iconographic drawing, or Science, as it was called, of
+representing natural subjects. In other words, when I got there I found
+it was a professorship of drawing, everything connected with Nat. Hist.,
+such as flowers, animals, insects; and the Professor lectures one day
+and practically instructs on another. I<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_125" id="page_125">[125]</a></span> happened to be present at one
+of the latter. Conceive my surprise at finding myself in a large library
+filled with tables, drawing books, ladies and gentlemen all sketching
+either from nature or excellent copies here. As it was not a public day
+except to those who wished to attend for instruction, I ought not with
+propriety to have intruded, but "J'�tais Anglois" and every attention
+was paid. You would have given a little finger to have seen the room; it
+was a hot summer's day, but there all was cool and fragrant; the windows
+opened on the gardens, the tables were covered with groupes of flowers
+in vases; the company, about 40, were seated up and down where ever they
+chose, each with a nice desk and drawing board&mdash;in short, it was a scene
+which excited feelings of respect for a nation which thus patronised
+everything which could add to the rational improvement of its members.
+Were France the seat of religion and pure virtue it would be Utopia
+verified; but, alas! there are spots which stain the picture and cast a
+balance decidedly in favour of England: we are rough, we are
+narrow-minded, but he who travels is brought to confess and say
+"England! with all thy faults I love thee still." ...</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> V.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>July 10th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Madame de Sta�ls party formed a fine contrast to the gloom and
+ponderosity of Sir Charles Stuart's dinner the day before. We went a
+quarter before<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_126" id="page_126">[126]</a></span> nine, thinking, as it was the nominal hour, it would be
+ill-bred to go too early, but the French are more punctual in these
+matters, for we found the good people all assembled and Marmont<a name="FNanchor_49_49" id="FNanchor_49_49"></a><a href="#Footnote_49_49" class="fnanchor">[49]</a>
+walked out not five minutes before we walked in.</p>
+
+<p>In his stead we had General Lafayette,<a name="FNanchor_50_50" id="FNanchor_50_50"></a><a href="#Footnote_50_50" class="fnanchor">[50]</a> the cornerstone of the
+Revolution. He is a tall, clumsy-made man, not much unlike Dr.
+Nightingale, tho' rather thinner. His countenance discovers thought and
+sound judgment, but by no means quickness or brilliancy; his manners
+were quiet, unassuming, and gentleman-like. He spoke little, and then
+said nothing particularly worth notice.</p>
+
+<p>The next lion announced was a lioness, the celebrated Madame
+R�camier,<a name="FNanchor_51_51" id="FNanchor_51_51"></a><a href="#Footnote_51_51" class="fnanchor">[51]</a> and though she is not in her premi�re jeunesse, I can
+easily conceive how she could once dazzle the world. It would be too
+much to give her credit for superior talents, but her manners were very
+agreeable tho' rather like all other belles of France who have fallen in
+my way, somewhat � la languissante. But I am all this while forgetting
+the star of the evening, the Baroness herself. She sat in a line with
+about six ladies, before whom were arranged as many gentlemen,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_127" id="page_127">[127]</a></span> all
+listening to the oracular tongue of their political Sybil.</p>
+
+<p>She was in high spirits because she had been warmed up by the decision
+of the court and commons concerning the liberty of the press, which had
+received an effectual check by limiting all liberty of speech and
+opinion to works containing not less than 480 pages, thus excluding the
+papers and pamphlets. The moment we were announced, before she asked me
+how I did, she enquired whether I had heard this notable decision, and
+then demanded what I thought of it. Of course, I assured her how much I
+lamented the prospect of an inundation of dull, prolix books to which
+France was thus inevitably exposed. This, as we spoke in English, she
+immediately translated for the benefit of the company, adding "Ce
+Monsieur Anglois dit cela, et c'est bien vrai il a raison," and then she
+laughed and seemed to enjoy the catalogue of stupid books which might be
+anticipated.</p>
+
+<p>I must confess the party was a little formidable; in England I should
+have said formal, but there is something in French manners wholly
+foreign to any application of the word formal, and really after
+exchanging a few remarks I was glad to be introduced to her son<a name="FNanchor_52_52" id="FNanchor_52_52"></a><a href="#Footnote_52_52" class="fnanchor">[52]</a> and
+daughter,<a name="FNanchor_53_53" id="FNanchor_53_53"></a><a href="#Footnote_53_53" class="fnanchor">[53]</a> with both of whom I was much pleased. They are clever and
+agreeable. She is not above eighteen or twenty, and<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_128" id="page_128">[128]</a></span> if her complexion
+was good would be very pretty. She was not shy, beginning conversation
+in a trice upon interesting subjects. She compared the English and
+French character, in which she (and I presume it was a maternal opinion)
+would not allow an atom of merit to the latter. On finding that I was a
+clergyman she immediately began upon Religion, talked of Hodgson,<a name="FNanchor_54_54" id="FNanchor_54_54"></a><a href="#Footnote_54_54" class="fnanchor">[54]</a>
+Andrews, Wilberforce,<a name="FNanchor_55_55" id="FNanchor_55_55"></a><a href="#Footnote_55_55" class="fnanchor">[55]</a> and then in questioning me about the
+Methodists (about whom she seemed to have heard much and entertained
+confused notions) we slid into mysticism, which carried us, of course,
+into the third vol. of "Allemagne"; she spoke in raptures of the mystic
+school, said she was quite one in heart&mdash;"Cela se peut," thought I; but
+somehow or other "Je ne le crois pas," for I have heard some little
+anecdotes of her mother, in which, whatever may be her theoretical views
+of mysticism, her practical opinions are rather more lax than F�nelon's.
+Much against my will I took my leave, willing to hope that Mme. S. spoke
+the truth when she said how glad she should be to see me if I visited
+Paris during the winter; she is off to Switzerland in a few days. The
+French say we have spoilt her&mdash;in fact, she occupies little of the
+public attention in Paris.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_129" id="page_129">[129]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The next event most interesting was our visit to the Corps L�gislatif,
+or House of Commons. We went to a certain door, to which we were refused
+admittance, and told it was too full or too late. But said I, "Nous
+sommes Anglois"; in an instant a man came up and placed us in an inner
+gallery in the body of the house. The House is something like the Royal
+Institution&mdash;of course larger and beautifully fitted up. Considering it
+as the Royal Institution for your better comprehension, the President
+sits on a tribunal throne in a recess corresponding to the fire-place;
+immediately below is a sort of Rostrum from whence the Members speak, in
+situation like the lecturer of the R.I. In point of decoration and
+external appearance both of house and members, it is far superior to our
+House of Commons, as all the members wear uniforms of blue and gold, but
+taking it all together I know not that anything can be more illustrative
+of the French Character&mdash;externally all correct and delightful, but
+within "a sad rottenness of the state of Denmark."</p>
+
+<p>The president began the proceedings by ringing a bell; a paper was then
+read detailing, I believe, the orders of the day. A member then arose
+and went to the Rostrum. In the middle of his speech he was called to
+order and told it was a very bad speech, so down he came and another
+mounted. He was equally disliked, for they told him he spoke too low and
+they could not hear him, so he disappeared; then half a dozen got up and
+were so<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_130" id="page_130">[130]</a></span> impatient that they began speaking altogether before they
+reached the Tribune. In vain did the President ring his bell, and stand
+up and gesticulate. Silence, however, was at length obtained, and he
+addressed them, but with little better success than the rest. One man
+then stept forward and did obtain a hearing, for he had good lungs and a
+fair share of eloquence. His speech was short, but it was by far the
+best; his name was Dumolard.<a name="FNanchor_56_56" id="FNanchor_56_56"></a><a href="#Footnote_56_56" class="fnanchor">[56]</a> Soon afterwards the sitting broke up;
+the whole took up little more than an hour. I know not whether the
+perfect want of order was more ridiculous or disgusting; the sittings of
+the Senate (Peers) are private....</p>
+
+<p>We will now take you to Malmaison, the interesting retreat of the
+interesting Jos�phine. Her character was scarcely known in England. We
+hear little more of her than as a discarded Empress or Mistress of
+Buonaparte's, but she had much to recommend her to public as well as
+private notice. The French all speak highly of her, and it is
+impossible, on seeing Malmaison and hearing of her virtues, not to join
+in their opinion. To be sure, as a Frenchman told me in running through
+a list of virtues, "Elle avait �t� un peu libertine, mais ce n'est rien
+cela," and, indeed, I could almost have added, "C'est bien vrai," for
+every allowance should be made; consider the situation in which<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_131" id="page_131">[131]</a></span> she was
+placed, her education, her temptations; many a saint might have fallen
+from the eminence on which she stood; I never dwelt with more
+satisfaction or felt more inclined to coincide in that benevolent
+verdict of the best of judges of human nature and human frailty,
+"Neither do I condemn thee, go and sin no more," than in criticising the
+character of Jos�phine.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 276px;">
+<img src="images/131.jpg" width="276" height="607" alt="MALMAISON" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>I am not sure whether you know exactly the history of Malmaison. The
+house and land attached to it were purchased by Buonaparte when First
+Consul, and given to Jos�phine, who made it what it is, and bought more
+land, so that it is now in fact a little Estate. On being divorced, she
+retired thither<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_132" id="page_132">[132]</a></span> with Eug�ne Beauharnais, her son, and younger children.
+Her pursuits and occupations will be best understood by describing what
+we saw. I should say, before I proceed, that it required some interest
+to get in, and that we went with the Hibberts, who knew the secretary of
+the Swedish Ambassador, in whose suite we were incorporated for
+admission. The chief room in the house is what is called the Gallery A,
+planned and finished according to her own designs; the floor is a mass
+of dark inlaid marble, the ceiling arched and light admitted from it,
+the whole not much unlike the Gallery at Winnington on a much larger
+scale. It would be difficult to describe the fitting up of the interior.
+The walls are hung with the most exquisite selections from ancient
+Masters, not stolen, but many given to her, and the rest purchased by
+herself; but I was more struck by the statues than with any thing else.
+The dots represent them and their situations in the Gallery; they are
+chiefly by two modern artists, Canova and Boher, though I fear the
+reputation of my taste and judgment will suffer by the confession. I
+still must confess that I felt far more pleasure than in looking either
+upon Apollo or the Venus de Medicis. There was a Bust and Statue of
+herself, the latter particularly beautiful, and if accurate, which I was
+assured it was, the original must have been elegant and interesting to
+the last degree. It reminded me much of Lady Charlemont, with a stronger
+expression <span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_133" id="page_133">[133]</a></span>of sense. The rest of the room was furnished with tables
+inlaid with marble, upon which were a variety of bronzes, pieces of
+armour, &amp;c., and her musical instruments were as she had left them, and
+everything wore an appearance of comfort which is seldom seen in the
+midst of such magnificence. Through folding doors you enter into a
+smaller room hung with pictures. C. was her chapel; before a little
+unostentatious altar, which had every appearance of having daily
+witnessed her devotions, was a beautiful Raphael; the walls were hung
+with seven small Scripture subjects by Poussin. I would have given a
+great deal to have been her invisible observer in this sacred
+retirement. She must have been alone, for it was scarcely large enough
+to admit priest or attendant.</p>
+
+<p>D. was a room in which she breakfasted, during which time music was
+generally performed in B. From E. was a fine view of the Aqueduct of
+Marly, and E. was the way to the Garden, which she had fitted up in the
+English style. I have not time to enter into detail of these or her
+greenhouses. She was fond of Society and patronised the Arts. She
+allowed Artists to sit at leisure in her gallery to copy pictures, and
+conversed with them a great deal. She did an infinity of good to all
+within her reach and was beloved by all. Her death was very sudden; she
+had complained of a sore throat, but not sufficiently to confine her to
+her room. On a certain Wednesday or Thursday she was in her Park in high
+spirits, showing it to the Emperor Alexander and King of Prussia; being
+rather<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_134" id="page_134">[134]</a></span> heated she drank some iced water; in the evening she was worse,
+on Sunday she was dead, sensible to the last; talked of death, seemed
+perfectly resigned&mdash;to use the words of a French lady, who told me many
+interesting particulars, "sa mort �tait tr�s chr�tienne." They were
+busied in packing pictures and making catalogues, but I believe there is
+no fear of dismantling the house, as Eug�ne Beauharnais<a name="FNanchor_57_57" id="FNanchor_57_57"></a><a href="#Footnote_57_57" class="fnanchor">[57]</a> and the
+children are to have it in conformity to her will.<a name="FNanchor_58_58" id="FNanchor_58_58"></a><a href="#Footnote_58_58" class="fnanchor">[58]</a> I have seen few
+things since my departure from England which have interested me more
+than Malmaison, and I could almost fancy that her statue, which is that
+of a pensive female, with the chin resting on the hand, was her ghost
+ruminating over the extraordinary events which had recently occurred,
+and which she had quitted for ever. You will see Malmaison in my
+sketch-book, as well as the Castle of Vincennes, which is as picturesque
+and imposing as it is interesting, from the circumstances attending the
+Duke d'Enghien's<a name="FNanchor_59_59" id="FNanchor_59_59"></a><a href="#Footnote_59_59" class="fnanchor">[59]</a> death. It seems this event was known at Paris the
+next day and spoken of with as much freedom as the despotic government
+of Paris would admit....<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_135" id="page_135">[135]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I went yesterday to see the house of Peers in the Luxembourg. The Hall
+of sittings is not unlike that of the Corps L�gislatif, but the
+decorations are more interesting, each niche being filled with Austrian
+standards and a few others. Under a gilt dome, supported by similar
+pillars, was the spot where Napoleon's throne was <i>not</i>. The remnants I
+saw lying in one of the Ante-rooms, all of which were ornamented with
+immense pictures of the principal battles, but these, out of compliment
+to the Emperor, &amp;c., had been covered over with green baize, even the
+very standards had been removed during the stay of the Emperor of
+Austria in Paris. There is a sitting on Tuesday, and if I stand at the
+door I may see the Marshals alight, but my curiosity would not be
+satisfied, as no persons seem to know them; even the man who shewed us
+the hall, who actually keeps the door thro' which they enter and sees
+them all constantly, assured me he did not know one from the other. He
+did not even know whether Marmont<a name="FNanchor_60_60" id="FNanchor_60_60"></a><a href="#Footnote_60_60" class="fnanchor">[60]</a> had one arm or two.</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> VI.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>July 11th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Thanks to our Landlord, and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we have just been
+elbowing the Marshals, as a serjeant of the National Guard offered to
+take us into the Thuilleries, and in we went with him in full uniform,
+on the very best day we could have<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_136" id="page_136">[136]</a></span> selected since our arrival in Paris,
+as a corps of about 10 or 15,000 men were to be reviewed by the King "en
+masse" in the Place de Carousel, immediately in front of the
+Thuilleries.</p>
+
+<p>We were stationed in a room of which I had heard much and wished above
+all things to see&mdash;"la Salle des Mar�chaux," so called from the
+full-length portraits of 18 of these gentlemen with which it is hung;
+the upper part of the room is surrounded by a gallery decorated with
+pictures of the chief battles&mdash;Lodi, Passage of the Po, and one sea
+piece descriptive of the capture of our Frigate, the <i>Ambuscade</i>, by a
+smaller vessel. It is so good a picture that for the sake of the
+painting I never thought of lamenting the subject.</p>
+
+<p>After standing in this Hall for a few minutes in the midst of Generals
+without number in full uniform, I had the satisfaction of being almost
+knocked over by Marshal Jourdan,<a name="FNanchor_61_61" id="FNanchor_61_61"></a><a href="#Footnote_61_61" class="fnanchor">[61]</a> a sharp, queer-looking fellow not
+at all stamped with the features of a hero. I eyed him well, and had
+scarcely satiated my curiosity when half a dozen more came by, walking
+about without peculiar honors or attention, and only to be distinguished
+from the Generals by a broad red ribbon, worn like those of our Knights
+of the Bath.</p>
+
+<p>I looked at each and all, but as few could tell their names I was at a
+loss to distinguish one from another; my head and eyes were in a perfect
+fidget,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_137" id="page_137">[137]</a></span> flying from Marshal to Marshal and from Picture to Picture.</p>
+
+<p>Of the Ducs de Treviso,<a name="FNanchor_62_62" id="FNanchor_62_62"></a><a href="#Footnote_62_62" class="fnanchor">[62]</a> de Conegliano,<a name="FNanchor_63_63" id="FNanchor_63_63"></a><a href="#Footnote_63_63" class="fnanchor">[63]</a> Serurier,<a name="FNanchor_64_64" id="FNanchor_64_64"></a><a href="#Footnote_64_64" class="fnanchor">[64]</a> and
+Perignan<a name="FNanchor_65_65" id="FNanchor_65_65"></a><a href="#Footnote_65_65" class="fnanchor">[65]</a> I had no doubt, as I saw them again several times, but I am
+not sure that I should know the others except from a recollection of
+their pictures.</p>
+
+<p>I will describe a few while their countenances are fresh upon my memory.</p>
+
+<p>Ney<a name="FNanchor_66_66" id="FNanchor_66_66"></a><a href="#Footnote_66_66" class="fnanchor">[66]</a> is a fine, handsome man, but remarkably fair with light curling
+hair, and struck us very like Mrs. Parker, of Astle.</p>
+
+<p>Duc d'Istria<a name="FNanchor_67_67" id="FNanchor_67_67"></a><a href="#Footnote_67_67" class="fnanchor">[67]</a> was reckoned by Robert Hibbert like me&mdash;that is to say,
+he had dark arched eyebrows, a fox-like sort of countenance, very dark,
+almost swarthy, and from his extreme bilious appearance, I should
+imagine might be troubled, like myself, with bad headaches.</p>
+
+<p>Davoust!<a name="FNanchor_68_68" id="FNanchor_68_68"></a><a href="#Footnote_68_68" class="fnanchor">[68]</a> I can scarcely recall his portrait with<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_138" id="page_138">[138]</a></span>out shuddering. If
+ever an evil spirit peeped thro' the visage of a human being, it was in
+Davoust. Every bad passion seemed to have set its mark on his face:
+nothing grand, warlike, or dignified. It was all dark, cruel, cunning,
+and malevolent. His body, too, seemed to partake of his character. I
+should fancy he was rather deformed. I never saw so good a Richard III.
+Let him pass and make way for one of a different description,
+Victor,<a name="FNanchor_69_69" id="FNanchor_69_69"></a><a href="#Footnote_69_69" class="fnanchor">[69]</a> a fine, open, gentlemanly countenance, tho' not like a
+military hero. Marmont, a dark haired, sharp-looking man of military
+stature. Duc de Dantzig,<a name="FNanchor_70_70" id="FNanchor_70_70"></a><a href="#Footnote_70_70" class="fnanchor">[70]</a> very ugly and squinting. Berthier,<a name="FNanchor_71_71" id="FNanchor_71_71"></a><a href="#Footnote_71_71" class="fnanchor">[71]</a>
+remarkably quiet and intelligent. Murat,<a name="FNanchor_72_72" id="FNanchor_72_72"></a><a href="#Footnote_72_72" class="fnanchor">[72]</a> an effeminate coxcomb with
+no characteristic but that of self-satisfaction. Moncey, a respectable
+veteran. Mass�na,<a name="FNanchor_73_73" id="FNanchor_73_73"></a><a href="#Footnote_73_73" class="fnanchor">[73]</a> the most military of all, dark hair and
+countenance, fine figure. Soult,<a name="FNanchor_74_74" id="FNanchor_74_74"></a><a href="#Footnote_74_74" class="fnanchor">[74]</a> a stern soldier, vulgar but<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_139" id="page_139">[139]</a></span>
+energetic; his mouth and lower part of his face like Edridge,<a name="FNanchor_75_75" id="FNanchor_75_75"></a><a href="#Footnote_75_75" class="fnanchor">[75]</a> though
+not so large a man.</p>
+
+<p>The King was to me a very secondary person; however, I was close to him
+as he tottered, like a good old well-meaning man, to Mass. On his return
+he appeared, as I described last Sunday, in the balcony facing the
+gardens for a few minutes and was loudly cheered, and then he came back
+to the Salle des Mar�chaux and sat down in a fine chair of Bonaparte's,
+covered all over with his Bees, in a Balcony facing the Place de
+Carousel, from whence he looked down on the 10,000 troops who were there
+assembled. The shouts here were not what they ought to have been.
+Comparatively few cried "God bless him!" and I much fear the number who
+thought it was still less. The Duc de Berri,<a name="FNanchor_76_76" id="FNanchor_76_76"></a><a href="#Footnote_76_76" class="fnanchor">[76]</a> on horseback with
+Marshal Moncey on one side and Du Pont<a name="FNanchor_77_77" id="FNanchor_77_77"></a><a href="#Footnote_77_77" class="fnanchor">[77]</a> on the other, reviewed the
+troops, who passed in companies and troops before them. As each company
+passed the officer held up his sword and cried "Vive le Roi!" and some
+of the soldiers did the same, but not more than one out of ten.</p>
+
+<p>I heard an anecdote of the Duc de Berri which is, I hope, true. A few
+days ago in reviewing some troops on the Champs Elys�es an officer in
+passing<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_140" id="page_140">[140]</a></span> chose to cry out, "Vive Napol�on!" upon which the Duc rode up
+to him, tore his Epaulette from his shoulder and order from his breast,
+threw them on the ground, and instantly dismissed him the service; this
+spirit pleased the soldiers, and they all shouted "Vive le Roi!"</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday we went to St. Cloud, Versailles, and the great and little
+Trianon. St. Cloud and the great Trianon were the especial residences of
+Buonaparte, and I looked at his bed and tables and chairs with some
+curiosity. I have not time to describe all these. I saw one public place
+yesterday which should be mentioned, a museum of models in every
+department of art and science, with all the machines, &amp;c., connected
+with them. I would willingly conclude my observations on Paris with some
+remarks on its manners, principles, &amp;c., and I would begin with Religion
+first if I could, but the fact is there appears to be none. If any does
+exist it must approximate to Mysticism and lie concealed in the recesses
+of the heart, for truly "the right hand knoweth not what the left hand
+doeth." But with all this non-appearance I should be cautious in passing
+too severe a censure. It must be remembered that the nation is military,
+that from the earliest years they "sing of arms," and Buonaparte carried
+this to such a degree that even children not much older than Owen<a name="FNanchor_78_78" id="FNanchor_78_78"></a><a href="#Footnote_78_78" class="fnanchor">[78]</a>
+are to be seen in full Uniforms. He wished to incorporate the two terms
+of man and soldier. We<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_141" id="page_141">[141]</a></span> laughed, you remember, at the account of the
+little King of Rome appearing in Uniform; in Paris this would not appear
+ridiculous. He had uniforms of all the favourite regiments horse and
+foot....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image141" id="image141"></a>
+<a href="images/141.jpg">
+<img src="images/141_th.jpg" width="650" height="348" alt="PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS.
+to face p. 141." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -30%;">To face p. 141.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But yet there appears to be less vice than in England, I should rather
+say less organised vice; I have not heard of a single Robbery, public or
+private&mdash;I walk without fear of pickpockets; I should be inclined to say
+they seemed rather against themselves than against each other. Their
+principles may be more relaxed on some points than ours, but I doubt
+much whether a Frenchman would not be as much disgusted in England as an
+Englishman could possibly be in France; we call them a profligate race
+and condemn them in toto&mdash;something like Hudibras' John Bull&mdash;</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Compounds for sin he is inclined to</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">By damning those he has no mind to."</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Their public walks and Theatres are less offensive to decency than ours.
+Drunkenness is scarcely known; at first sight I should pronounce them an
+idle, indolent people; the streets are almost always full; the gardens,
+public walks, &amp;c., swarm at all hours with saunterers. According to my
+ideas a Frenchman's life must be wretched, for he does not seem at all
+to enter into the charms of home&mdash;their houses are not calculated for
+it; they huddle together in nooks and corners, and the male part
+(judging from the multitudes I daily see) leave the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_142" id="page_142">[142]</a></span> women and children
+to get through the day as they can.</p>
+
+<p>Their coffee-houses are some of them quite extraordinary; most of them
+are ornamented with Mirrors in abundance, but some shine with more
+splendour. In the Palais Royal there is one called "Le Caf� de mille
+Colonnes," which merits some description. It consists of three or four
+rooms&mdash;the largest is almost one mass of plate-glass Mirrors, beautiful
+clocks at each end, and magnificent chandeliers; behind a raised Table
+of most superb structure, composed of slabs of marble and plate-glass,
+sat a lady dressed in the richest manner, Diamonds on head and hand,
+Lace, Muslin, &amp;c. This is the Landlady; by her a little boy, about 4
+years old, stood in charge of a drawer from whence the small change was
+issued; this, if it happened to be copper, was delicately touched by the
+fair hand, which was immediately washed in a glass of water as if
+contaminated by the vulgar metal. She never spoke to the waiters, but
+rung a golden bell; her inkstands, flower jars&mdash;in short, every article
+on the table was of the same metal or of silver gilt. The tables for the
+company were fine marble slabs; the room was from the reflection of all
+the mirrors, as you may suppose, a perfect blaze of light, and yet
+altogether the place looked dirty, from the undress and shabby coats of
+the company. The French never dress for the evening unless going out to
+parties, and they always look dirty and unlike gentlemen; the former is
+not the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_143" id="page_143">[143]</a></span> case, in fact for they are constantly washing and bathing. An
+hour or two before I was in this extraordinary coffee-house I had
+traversed a spot as opposite to it as could well be&mdash;the Catacombs!&mdash;a
+range of vaults nearly half a mile long, about 80 feet under ground, in
+which are deposited all the bones from all the cemeteries in Paris. I
+suppose we were in company with some millions of skeletons, whose skulls
+are so arranged as to form regular patterns, and here and there was an
+altar made of bones fancifully piled up, on the sides an inscription in
+Latin, French, &amp;c. Behind one wall the bodies of all who perished in the
+massacres in Paris were immured. They were brought in carts at night and
+thrown in, and there they rest, festering not in their shrouds but in
+clothes. Such a mass of corrupt flesh would soon have infested all the
+vaults, so they were bricked up.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image143" id="image143"></a>
+<a href="images/143.jpg">
+<img src="images/143_th.jpg" width="650" height="378" alt="Catacombs Paris, July 8, 1814" title="" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<p>I wish to recommend our hotel to any people you may hear of coming to
+Paris&mdash;H�tel des Estrangers, Rue du Hazard, kept by Mr. Meriel. Its
+situation is both quiet and convenient; it is really not five minutes'
+walk from the leading objects of Paris, and the people have been civil
+to us beyond measure.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_144" id="page_144">[144]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV</h3>
+
+<p class="head">ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY</p>
+
+<p class="contents">The Ex-Imperial Guard&mdash;Anecdotes of the last days at
+Fontainebleau&mdash;Invalided Cossacks&mdash;"Trahison"&mdash;Ruin and
+desolation&mdash;Roast dog&mdash;An English soldier&mdash;A Trappist veteran&mdash;Jack
+boots&mdash;Polytechnic cadets&mdash;A Russian officer&mdash;Cossacks, Kalmucks,
+and sparrows&mdash;Prussians and British lions&mdash;Rhine Castles&mdash;Rival
+inscriptions&mdash;Diligence atmosphere&mdash;Brisemaison&mdash;Sociable English.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">O</span><b>N</b>
+leaving Paris, Edward Stanley planned to follow the traces of the
+desperate campaign which Napoleon had fought in the early months of that
+year (1814) against the Allies, and in which he so nearly succeeded in
+saving his crown for a time.</p>
+
+<p>As, however, the English travellers did not intend to return again to
+Paris, they reversed Napoleon's line of march and started to
+Fontainebleau by the road along which the Emperor rode back in hot haste
+on the night of March 30th, to take up the command of the force which
+should have been defending his capital, and where the sight of Mortier's
+flying troops convinced him that all hope was at an end.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_145" id="page_145">[145]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When they had visited Fontainebleau, where the final abdication had
+taken place on April 11th, they turned north-east to Melun and posted on
+through towns which had been the scenes of some of the most desperate
+fighting in that wonderful campaign, when Napoleon had seemed to be
+everywhere at once, dealing blows right and left against the three
+armies which, in the beginning of January, had advanced to threaten his
+Empire&mdash;B�low in the north, Bl�cher on the east, and Schwarzenberg on
+the south.</p>
+
+<p>They passed through Guignes and Meaux, by which Napoleon's army had
+marched after his victory over Bl�cher at Vauchamps on February 14th, in
+the rapid movement to reinforce Marshal Victor, and to drive back
+Schwarzenberg from the Seine.</p>
+
+<p>Through Ch�teau Thierry, where on the 12th of February the Emperor and
+Marshal Mortier had pursued Russians and Prussians from street to street
+till they were driven over the Marne, and whence the French leader
+dashed after Bl�cher to Vauchamps.</p>
+
+<p>Through Soissons, which the Russians under Winzengerode had bombarded on
+March 3rd, and forced to surrender, whereby Bl�cher and B�low were
+enabled to join hands.</p>
+
+<p>Through Laon, where Bl�cher retreated after Craonne, and where he
+finally shattered Marmont's forces in a night attack.</p>
+
+<p>By Berry au Bac, where the Emperor crossed the Aisne on his way to fight
+Bl�cher at Craonne,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_146" id="page_146">[146]</a></span> the scene on March 7th of one of the bloodiest
+battles of the war.</p>
+
+<p>On to Rheims where, after Marmont's disaster at Laon, Napoleon beat the
+Russians just before he was forced to rush southwards again to contend
+with Schwarzenberg and his Austrians.</p>
+
+<p>Finally they reached Ch�lons, which had been Napoleon's starting-point
+for the whole campaign, and where he had arrived in the closing days of
+January after having taken his last farewell of Marie Louise and of the
+King of Rome.</p>
+
+<p>After Ch�lons they turned eastwards, following the line of fortresses
+for which Napoleon had staked and lost his crown, and reached the Rhine
+by Verdun, Metz, and Mayence; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle, Lille, and
+Brussels, which had by the Treaty of Paris, in May, been ceded with the
+whole of Belgium to the Netherlands.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his Wife.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Melun</span>, <i>July 14th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>We quitted our Hotel yesterday morning at six for Fontainebleau.</p>
+
+<p>There is nothing particularly interesting about the road, which is
+almost an incessant avenue. About half-way we passed a fine Ch�teau of
+Marshal Jourdan's.</p>
+
+<p>The forest of Fontainebleau commences about four miles from the town and
+extends some nine or ten miles in all directions. At first I was in
+hopes of being gratified with the sight of fine woods, but,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_147" id="page_147">[147]</a></span> with the
+exception of a few patches of good oaks, the remainder is little better
+than underwood and dwarflings.</p>
+
+<p>We went into the heart of the forest to see an old Hermitage now
+inhabited by a keeper and his family. They had been visited by Cossacks,
+but had received no injury whatever; on the contrary the poor woman
+related with all the eloquence of Truth and the French animation that
+from their own soldiers they had suffered all that cruelty and rapacity
+could devise&mdash;indeed, the house and gardens bore evidence to the
+facts&mdash;window shutters pierced with bullets, broken doors, furniture
+gone, and above 800 francs' worth of honey destroyed out of pure
+wantonness&mdash;in short the poor people seemed quite ruined. I received a
+similar account in the town. Fontainebleau is a dull, melancholy-looking
+place, with a very extensive ugly palace&mdash;interesting only from the late
+events. Scarcely a soul appeared about; we crossed the large court in
+which Buonaparte took his last farewell and embraced the Imperial
+Eagles, called by some loyal French "The vile Cuckoos." Our hostess was,
+I presume, a staunch imperialist, who thought she could not shew her
+zeal for the Emperor in a stronger manner than by imposing on
+Englishmen. She began by asking 16s. for a plate of 8 little wretched
+mutton chops; we resented the imposition, although the sudden appearance
+of 4 or 5 officers of the imperial guard almost rendered it doubtful
+whether we ought to act too warmly on the defensive, as they<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_148" id="page_148">[148]</a></span> seemed to
+patronise our hostess; however, we refused to pay and retired unimposed
+upon.</p>
+
+<p>The imperial guard here are supposed to be particularly attached to the
+Emperor, and of course averse to Englishmen, but I was agreeably
+surprised to find three out of the four really something like gentlemen
+in their manners; we entered into conversation, which I managed as
+dexterously as I could, man&#339;uvering between the evil of sacrificing my
+own opinions on one side, and of giving them offence on the other; it
+was a nice point, as I perceived a word beyond the line of demarcation
+would have inflamed them in a trice. One happened to differ with another
+on a political point, which produced a loud and rapid stamping with the
+feet, accompanied by a course of pirouets on the heel with the velocity
+of a dervish, which fully proved what might be effected on their tempers
+had I been disposed to try the experiment. They called themselves the
+Ex-Imperial Guard. On retiring I shook hands with them, and with as low
+a bow as the little King of Rome, said "Messieurs les Gardes d'Honneur,
+Je vous salue." ...</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> VII.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>Monday, July 19th.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...The history of Buonaparte immediately preceding, and subsequent to
+the surrender of Paris, was never actually known&mdash;I will give it you.</p>
+
+<p>The capitulation took place on the 30th (March). In the evening of that
+day he arrived at Fontaine<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_149" id="page_149">[149]</a></span>bleau without his army. Rumours of fighting
+near Paris had reached him. He almost immediately set off with Berthier
+in his carriage for Paris, and actually arrived at Villejuif, only 6
+miles from the capital; when he heard the result he turned about and
+appeared again at Fontainebleau at 9 the next morning. When he alighted,
+the person who handed him out, a sort of head-porter of the Palace, who
+was our guide, told me he looked "triste, bien triste"; he spoke to
+nobody, went upstairs as fast as he could, and then called for his plans
+and maps; his occupation during the whole time he staid consisted in
+writing and looking over papers, but to what this writing and these
+papers related the world may feel but will never know; his spirits were
+by no means broken down; in a day or two he was pretty much as usual,
+and it is said he signed the Abdication without the least apparent
+emotion. We heard he was mad, but I can assure you from undoubted
+authority that he was perfectly well in mind and body the whole time,
+and, notwithstanding his excessive fatigues, as corpulent as ever;
+indeed, said our guide, "War seems to agree with him better than with
+any man I ever knew." Buonaparte laid out immense sums in furnishing and
+beautifying the Palais here. I got into his library, the snuggest room
+you ever saw, immediately below a little study in which he always sat
+and settled his affairs; his arm-chair was a very comfortable, honest,
+plain arm-chair, but I looked in vain for all the gashes and notches
+which it was said he was wont to inflict<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_150" id="page_150">[150]</a></span> upon it. I could not perceive
+a scratch, he was too busily employed in that said chair in forming
+plans for cutting up Europe; within three yards of his table was a
+little door, or rather trap door, by which you descended down the oddest
+spiral staircase you ever beheld into the Library, which was low and
+small; the books were few of them new, almost all standard works upon
+history&mdash;at least I am sure 4 out of 5 were historical&mdash;all of his own
+selection, and each stamped, as in fact was everything else from high to
+low, far and wide, with his N., or his Bees or his Eagle&mdash;all of which
+Louis XVIII is as busily employed in effacing, which alone will give him
+ample employment: but to return to the books. Amongst the rest I
+found&mdash;Shakespeare ... and a whole range of Ecclesiastical History,
+which, if ever read, might account in some degree for his shutting up
+the Pope as the existing representative of the animals who have
+occasioned half the feuds and divisions therein recorded. There was a
+Chapel, which he regularly attended on Sundays and Saints' days. His
+State bed was a sort of State business, very uncomfortable, consisting
+of 5 or 6 mattresses under a royal canopy with 2 Satin Pillows at each
+end.</p>
+
+<p>During his residence he never stirred beyond the gates, though I could
+not discover that he was at all under restraint, or in any way looked
+upon as a prisoner; we were told in England (what are we not told
+there?) that he feared the people, who would have torn him in pieces;
+this is an idle story. I<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_151" id="page_151">[151]</a></span> rather suspect the people liked him too well,
+besides which his Guards were there, and by them he is idolised. He
+generally took exercise in a long and beautiful Gallery, called the
+Gallery of Francis I., on both sides of which were busts of his great
+Generals on panels ornamented with the N., and some name above alluding
+to a victory; thus above one N. was <i>Nazareth</i>, which puzzled me at
+first, but I afterwards heard he had cut up some Turks there; besides
+the Gallery, he walked every day up and down a Terrace; he dined every
+day in a miserable (I speak comparatively) little passage room without
+any shew of state; he was affable to his attendants and is liked by
+them. His abdication room is not one of the state apartments&mdash;it is a
+shabby ante-room; I could almost fancy that in performing this
+humiliating deed he had retired as far as possible from the Halls and
+Saloons which were decorated by his hand, and had witnessed his Imperial
+magnificence. Most of the Marshals were in the room, and it would have
+been a tour indeed to have glided through the hearts of each when such
+an extraordinary performance was transacting. It was in the great Court
+before the Palace that he took his leave, not above 1,500 troops were
+present. At such a moment to have heard such a speech, delivered with
+the dignity and stage effect Buonaparte well knew how to give, must have
+produced a strong effect&mdash;how great (how sad I had almost said) the
+contrast!</p>
+
+<p>The stones were overgrown with grass; nobody<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_152" id="page_152">[152]</a></span> appeared, no voice was
+heard except the clacking of half a dozen old women who were weeding on
+their knees, and all the windows were closed. The dreary, deserted
+present compared with the magnificent past excited nearly the same
+feelings as if I had been looking on Tadmor in the wilderness. After
+passing the Imperial prison we were ushered into the apartments of the
+Imperial prisoners, the poor Pope and his 16 Cardinals. I had quite
+forgotten the place of their confinement, and was a little surprised
+when the man said, "Here, Sir, dwelt for 19 months the holy Conclave of
+St. Peter." He must have led a miserable life, for though he was allowed
+two carriages, with 6 and 8 horses to each, he neither stirred out
+himself nor allowed any of the Cardinals to so do, saying he did not
+think it right for prisoners. Buonaparte saw him in January, I think the
+man said, for the last time. So much for Fontainebleau. Few have
+followed their master to Elba. Roustan the Mameluke and Constant his
+Valet were certainly very ungrateful; one of them&mdash;I forget which&mdash;to
+whom Buonaparte had given 25,000 fr. (about �1,200) the day before he
+left Fontainebleau, applied to the Duc de Berri for admission into his
+service; in reply the Duc told him his gratitude ought to have carried
+him to Elba, but though it had not, if he (the Duke) ever heard that
+Buonaparte wished to have him there, he would bind him hand and foot and
+send him immediately. None of the Royal allies have been to
+Fontainebleau at the time or since, except the King of Prussia,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_153" id="page_153">[153]</a></span> who
+came incog. a few days ago. This the guide said he had heard since; he
+had, indeed, seen three persons walking about, but he had not shewn them
+the Palace nor spoken to them. That it was the King of Prussia was
+confirmed by a curious little memorandum I found wafered over a high
+glass on the top of the room in which we dined, and which caught my eye
+immediately; I shewed it to the people of the house, who said they had
+not observed it before, but remembered three gentlemen dining there on
+that day. "Sa Majest� le Roi de Prusse accompagn� du Prince Guillaume
+son fils a din� en cette appartement avec son premier Chambellan Mr.
+Baron D'Ambolle, le 8 Juillet, 1814." ... This is the way the King of
+Prussia always went about in Paris, nobody knew him or saw him....</p>
+
+<p>From Fontainebleau we went to Melun and kept proceeding through Guignes
+to Meaux. At Guignes we began to hear of the effects of war: 15,000
+Russians had been bivouacked above the town for a week. Buonaparte
+advanced with his troops, on which they retired, but troops do not walk
+up and down the earth like lambs, but rather like roaring lions, seeking
+whom they may devour; however, here let us insert once for all the
+account I have invariably received from sufferers throughout the whole
+Theatre of war&mdash;that the conduct of the Russians and French was widely
+different; the former generally behaving as well as could possibly be
+expected, and pillaging only from necessity; the latter seem to have
+made havoc and devastation<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_154" id="page_154">[154]</a></span> their delight. They might perhaps act on
+principle, conceiving that it was better for the treasure and good
+things of the land to fall into their hands than the enemy's.</p>
+
+<p>At a little shabby inn at Guignes where we breakfasted Buonaparte had
+slept. The people described him dressed "comme un perruquier" in a grey
+great-coat; he clattered into the house, bustled about, went to his room
+early, and appeared again at 9 the next morning, but "J'en reponds bien"
+that he was not sleeping all that time. If from Guignes we traversed a
+country where we heard of war, at Meaux we began to see the
+effects&mdash;before a picturesque gateway we descended to cross the bridge
+over a stone arch which had been blown up. Shot-holes marked the wall,
+and within the houses were well bespattered with musket balls. It was
+the first visible field of battle we had crossed, and to heighten the
+interest, while we were looking about and asking particulars of the
+people, up came bands of Russian troops of all descriptions, Cossacks
+included, 1,500 having just entered the town invalided from Paris on
+their return home. To be sure, a more filthy set I never beheld. The
+country is pretty well stocked with Cossack horses; they were purchased
+at a very cheap rate&mdash;from 25 shillings to 50 a piece. We have had
+several of them in our carriage, and find them far more active and rapid
+than the French, though smaller and more miserable in appearance. My
+conversation with the Russians (for I made it a point to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_155" id="page_155">[155]</a></span> speak to
+everybody) was rather laconic, and generally ran thus, "Vous Russe, moi
+Inglis"&mdash;the answer, "You Inglis, moi Russe, we brothers"&mdash;and then I
+generally got a tap on the shoulder and a broad grin of approbation
+which terminated the conference.</p>
+
+<p>You know the chief event which occurred at Meaux was the explosion of
+the powder magazines by the French on their retreat, for which they were
+most severely, and, I think, unjustly, censured in our
+despatches&mdash;indeed, after seeing and hearing with my own eyes and ears,
+I feel less than ever inclined to put implicit faith in these public
+documents. The Magazine was in a large house where wines had been stored
+in the cellar&mdash;about half a mile to the west of the town upon a hill.
+About 3 o'clock in the morning the explosion took place with an
+"<i>�branlement</i>" which shook the town to its very foundation. In an
+instant every pane of glass was shattered to atoms, but the cathedral
+windows, which were composed of small squares in lead, escaped tolerably
+well, only here and there some patches being forced out. The tiles also
+partook of the general crash. Many, of course, were broken by the shower
+of shot, stones, &amp;c., which fell, but the actual concussion destroyed
+the greater part. Numbers of houses were remaining in their dilapidated
+state, and presented a curious scene. We went to see the spot where the
+house stood, for the house itself, like the temple of Loretto,
+disappeared altogether. Some others near it were on their last<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_156" id="page_156">[156]</a></span>
+legs&mdash;top, beams, doors, all blown away. Even the trees in a garden were
+in part thrown down, and the larger ones much excoriated. Only one
+person was killed on the spot, supposed to have been a marauder who was
+pillaging near the place. Another person about half a mile off, driving
+away his furniture to a place of safety, was wounded, and died soon
+afterwards.</p>
+
+<p>From Meaux, I may say almost all the way to Ch�lons, a distance of above
+150 miles, the country bore lamentable marks of the scourge with which
+it has been afflicted. I will allow you&mdash;I would allow myself perhaps,
+when I look back to the circumstances connected with the war&mdash;to wish
+that all the country, Paris included, had been sacked and pillaged as a
+just punishment, or rather as the sole mode of convincing these
+infatuated people that they are the conquered and not the Conqueror of
+the Allies. Wherever I go, whatever field of battle I see&mdash;be it Craon,
+Laon, Soissons, or elsewhere&mdash;victory is never accorded to the Russians.
+"Oh non, les Russes �taient toujours vaincus." One fellow who had been
+one of Buonaparte's guides at Craon had the impudence to assure me that
+the moment he appeared the Allies ran away. "Aye, but," said I, "how
+came the French to retreat and leave them alone?" "Oh, because just then
+the <i>trahison</i> which had been all arranged 19 months before began to
+appear."</p>
+
+<p>Again, at Laon I was assured that the French drove all before them, and
+gained the heights.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_157" id="page_157">[157]</a></span> "Then," said I, "why did not they stay there?" "Oh,
+then reappeared '<i>la petite trahison</i>,'" and so they go on, and well do
+they deserve, and heartily do I wish, to have their pride and impudence
+lowered. But when I see what war is, when I see the devastation this
+comet bears in its sweeping tail, its dreadful impartiality involving
+alike the innocent and the guilty, I should be very sorry if it depended
+on me to pronounce sentence, or cry "havoc and let loose." ...</p>
+
+<p>On the 14th we slept at Ch�teau Thierry&mdash;such an Inn, and such insolent
+pigs of people! Spain was scarcely worse ... added to the filthiness of
+the place, a diligence happened at the same time to pour forth its
+contents in the shape of a crew of the most vulgar, dirty French
+officers I ever saw. It was well we had no communication with them, for
+by the conversation I overheard in the next room there would have been
+little mutual satisfaction: "Oh! voici un regiment (alluding to us 5) de
+ces Anglois dans la maison! o� vont-ils les Coquins?" "Moi je ne sais
+pas, les vilains!" Luckily they all tumbled upstairs to bed very soon,
+each with a cigar smoking and puffing from beneath the penthouse of
+their huge moustachios, during their ascent, by the by, keeping the
+Landlady in hot water lest they should break into her best bedroom, of
+which she carefully kept the key, telling me at the same time she was
+afraid of their insisting upon having clean sheets. By their appearance,
+however, I did not conceive her to be in much danger of so unfair a<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_158" id="page_158">[158]</a></span>
+demand. We had the clean sheets, damp enough, but no matter&mdash;she
+remembered them in the Bill most handsomely, and when I remonstrated
+against some of her charges, for I must observe that we dined in a
+wretched hole with our postillions, she checked me by saying, "Comment,
+Monsieur, c'est trop! Cela ne se peut pas; comme tout ici est si
+charmant." ... There was no reply to be made to such an appeal, so I
+bowed, paid, and retired. Then the bridge was blown up, the streets
+speckled with bullets. Near the bridge, which had been smartly
+contested, the houses were actually riddled, yet here the Emperor stood
+exposed as quiet and unconcerned amidst the balls as if (to use their
+own expression) he had been "chez lui."</p>
+
+<p>As we advanced the marks of war became stronger and stronger, every
+village wore a rueful aspect, and every individual told a tale more and
+more harrowing to the feelings. The Postmasters seem to have been the
+greatest sufferers, as their situation demanded a large supply of corn,
+horses and forage, all of which, even to the chickens, were carried off.
+One poor woman, wife of a postmaster, a very well-behaved,
+gentlewoman-like sort of person, told me that when 80,000 Russians came
+to their town she escaped into the woods (you will remember the snow was
+then deep on the ground and the cold excessive) where for two days she
+and her family had nothing to eat. The Cossacks then found her, but did
+no harm, only asking for food. I mention her case not as singular, for
+it was the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_159" id="page_159">[159]</a></span> lot of thousands, but merely to shew what people must expect
+when Enemies approach.</p>
+
+<p>Soissons was the next place, and compared with the scene of desolation
+there presented all that we had hitherto seen was trifling.</p>
+
+<p>I little thought last February that in July I should witness such
+superlatively interesting scenes. With the exception of Elba alone, ours
+has been the very best tour that could have been taken, and exactly at
+the right time, for I apprehend that a month ago we could not have
+passed the country....</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> VIII.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Mayence</span>, <i>July 22nd</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Our speed outstrips my pen. I am to retrace our steps to Soissons,
+whereas here we are upon the banks of the Rhine, which is hurrying
+majestically by to terminate its course amongst the dykes of Holland.</p>
+
+<p>The nearer we came to Soissons<a name="FNanchor_79_79" id="FNanchor_79_79"></a><a href="#Footnote_79_79" class="fnanchor">[79]</a> the nearer we perceived we were to
+the field of some terrible contest, and the suburbs, where the thickest
+of the fight took place, presented a frightful picture of war, not a
+house entire. It seems they were unroofed for the convenience of the
+attacking party, or set on fire, an operation which took up a very short
+space of time, thanks to the energetic labours of about 50 or 60,000
+men. Indeed, fire and sword<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_160" id="page_160">[160]</a></span> had done their utmost&mdash;burnt beams,
+battered doors, not a vestige of furniture or window frames. I cannot
+give you a better idea of the quantity of shot, and consequent number of
+beings who must have perished, than by assuring you that on one front of
+a house about the extent of our home, and which was not more favoured
+than its neighbours, I counted between 2 and 300 bullet marks. I was
+leaning against a bit of broken wall in a garden, which appeared to be
+the doorway to a sort of cellar, taking a sketch, when the gardener came
+up and gave me some particulars of the fight. He pointed to this cave or
+cellar as the place of shelter in which he and 44 others had been
+concealed, every moment dreading a discovery which, whether by friend or
+foe, they looked upon as equally fatal. Fortunately the foe were the
+discoverers. Upon the termination of the battle, which had been
+favourable to the Allies, in came a parcel of Russians upon the
+trembling peasants. Conceiving it to be a hiding-place for French
+soldiers, they rushed upon them, but finding none, satisfied themselves
+with asking what business they had there, and turning them out to find
+their way through blood and slaughter to some more secure place of
+shelter. A small mill pool had been so completely choked with dead that
+they were obliged to let off the water and clean it out. With Sir
+Charles Stuart's dispatches cut out of the Macclesfield Paper we
+ascended the Cathedral, and from thence, as upon a map, traced out the
+operations of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_161" id="page_161">[161]</a></span> both armies. Soissons is half surrounded by the Aisne,
+and stands on a fine plain, upon which the Russians displayed.
+Buonaparte, in one of his Bulletins, abuses a governor who allowed the
+Allies to take possession of the town when he was in pursuit, thus
+giving them a passage over the river, adding that had that governor done
+his duty the Russians might have been cut off. In England this was all
+voted "leather and prunello" and a mere vapouring opinion of the
+Emperor's, but as far as I could observe he was perfectly right, and had
+the governor been acting under my orders I question much whether I
+should not have hanged him. In looking about we were shewn a sort of
+town hall, with windows ornamented with the most beautiful painted glass
+you ever saw&mdash;nice little figures, trophies, landscapes, &amp;c.&mdash;but a
+party of Russians had unfortunately been lodged there, and the glass was
+almost all smashed. I procured a specimen, but alas! portmanteaus are
+not the best packing-cases for glass, and in my possession it fared
+little better than with the Cossacks. However, if it is pulverised, I
+will bring it home as a Souvenir....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image161" id="image161"></a>
+<a href="images/161.jpg">
+<img src="images/161_th.jpg" width="650" height="384" alt="HOUSES AND TOWER, LAON, 1814." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">HOUSES AND TOWER, LAON, 1814.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -30%;">To face p. 161.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From Soissons to Laon the country is uninteresting except from the late
+events. With the exception of the first view of the plain and town of
+Laon, we passed village after village in the same state of ruin and
+dilapidation. Chavignon, about 4 miles from Laon, seemed, however, to
+have been more particularly the object of vengeance; it was throughout<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_162" id="page_162">[162]</a></span>
+nearly a repetition of the suburbs of Soissons. Laon rises like a sort
+of Gibraltar from a rich and beautiful plain covered with little woods,
+vineyards, villages, and cornfields; the summit is crowned with an old
+castle, the town with its Cathedral towers and a parcel of windmills.
+Buonaparte had been extremely anxious to dislodge the allies; for two
+days made a furious and almost incessant attack, which was fortunately
+unsuccessful owing, to speak in French terms, to <i>la petite trahison</i>,
+in plain English, the bravery of the Russians, who not only withstood
+the repeated shocks, but pursued the enemy all the way to Soissons,
+every little copse and wood becoming a scene of contest, and the whole
+plain was strewed with dead. Since quitting Rouen I do not recollect any
+town at all to be compared with Laon either in point of scenery without
+or picturesque beauty within; it is one of the most curious old places I
+ever saw&mdash;Round Towers, Gateways, &amp;c. We took up our quarters at an
+odd-looking Inn, with the nicest people we had met with for some time.
+They spoke with horror of the miseries they had undergone in this Inn,
+not much larger than Cutts' at Wilmslow; they had daily to feed and
+accommodate for upwards of two months 150 Russians of all descriptions,
+and this at a moment when provisions were, of course, extremely dear.
+The landlord's daughter with two friends were imprisoned, actually
+afraid of putting their noses beyond the keyhole; luckily they could
+make artificial flowers, and two of them drew remarkably<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_163" id="page_163">[163]</a></span> well; a
+favourite dog of the landlord's was their companion. A Cossack had one
+day taken him by the tail with the firm intent to put him on the kitchen
+fire, the bare recollection of which kindled all our host's anger, and
+he declared that had his poor dog been roasted, though he well knew the
+consequence, he should have shot the Cossack; fortunately the dog
+escaped, but as his Master assured me, never smelt or heard a Cossack's
+name mentioned afterwards without popping his tail between his legs and
+making off with the utmost speed. Both at this place and at Soissons we
+met with people with whom Davenport<a name="FNanchor_80_80" id="FNanchor_80_80"></a><a href="#Footnote_80_80" class="fnanchor">[80]</a> had lodged, and in both places
+he has established a character which reflects the highest credit on his
+activity, humanity, and generosity. He was no idle spectator; he went
+about endeavouring by every means in his power to alleviate the miseries
+of war by protecting persons and property, and by administering to the
+wants of the sick and wounded of every description....</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th we quitted Laon for Berry au Bac, passing through Corbeny
+and close to the heights of Craon, upon which a battle was fought which
+might be considered as the coup de gr�ce to the French. The Emperor
+commanded in person; he talked nearly half an hour with the Postmaster,
+whom he summoned before him; if the man spoke truth, his conversation
+appears to have been rather childish. After asking many questions about
+the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_164" id="page_164">[164]</a></span> roads and country, he vented a torrent of abuse against the
+Russians, upon whom he assured the Postmaster it was his intention to
+inflict summary punishment, and, indeed, according to the French
+translation of the business, he actually did so, tho' I never could find
+out that any other of the Imperial troops remained to enjoy the victory
+on these said heights, saving and except the wounded and killed; one
+spot was pointed out where in one grave were deposited the remains of
+3,000....</p>
+
+<p>In this village of Corbeny there had been sad devastation; but it was at
+Berry au Bac that we were to see the superlative degree of misery. This
+unfortunate little town had been captured 7 times&mdash;4 times by the
+Russians, 3 times by the French; their bridge, a beautiful work of 3
+arches, only completed in December, was blown up March 19. The houses
+fared no better; whole streets were annihilated&mdash;chiefly for the sake of
+burning the beams for fire-wood by the Russians&mdash;but the walls were in
+great measure knocked over by the French, for what other purpose than
+wanton cruelty I could not learn. Pillage and violence of every
+description had been excessive. Some of the inhabitants died of pure
+fright; a gentleman-like-looking man assured me his own father was of
+the number. Even here the Cossacks were complimented for their
+comparative good behaviour, while the French and the Emperor were justly
+execrated&mdash;"Plait � Dieu" said a poor man who stood moaning over the
+ruins of his cottage, "Plait � Dieu, qu'il soit mort, et qu'on
+n'entend�t plus de Napol�on";&mdash;the old woman, his wife, told me they
+only feared the Cossacks when they were drunk. An old Cossack had taken
+up his quarters with them&mdash;"Ah c'�tait un bon Viellard; un bon Papa."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image164" id="image164"></a>
+<a href="images/164.jpg">
+<img src="images/164_th.jpg" width="650" height="388" alt="BERRY AU BAC.
+
+To face p. 164." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">
+<br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 164.</span></span>
+
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_165" id="page_165">[165]</a></span>One day a party of 20 or 30 drunken Cossacks broke into their yard, and
+insisted on entering the house; the old woman said she had nothing to
+fear and would have opened the door, but the Cossack seized her, saying,
+"There is but one way to save you," and taking her by the arm, shewed
+her to his companions as his prize and threatened the man who should
+touch his property with instant death. They did not dispute the matter
+with him and retired quietly. When they were out of sight he told her to
+follow him, and led her 3 or 4 miles up the country amongst the woods
+and left her in a place of safety, taking a kind leave of her and
+saying, "I have done all I could for you, now farewell"&mdash;and she saw no
+more of him....</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Rheims on the evening of the 16th, a large, fine, regular,
+dull-looking city in a dull-looking plain. The Cathedral is grand
+enough, but I felt no wish to remain till the Coronation. Hitherto we
+had seen inanimate vestiges of war, at Rheims we were to see the living
+effects. By accident we passed the door of a large Church or Hall which
+had been converted into an Hospital for 400 Russian prisoners, and on
+benches near the porch were seated some convalescent patients without
+arms or legs. We stopped to speak to them as well<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_166" id="page_166">[166]</a></span> as we could, and upon
+saying we were Englanders, one of the Russians with evident rapture and
+unfeigned delight made signs that there was a British soldier amongst
+their number, and immediately 4 or 5 of them ran to bring him out; and
+such a poor object did appear dragged along, his legs withered away and
+emaciated to the last degree. He had been wounded at St. Jean de Luz in
+the thigh, and subsequently afflicted with a fever which had thus
+deprived him of the use of his limbs. We gave something to those who
+were nearest, and on my asking if any Prussian was there to whom I could
+speak in French, as I wished to express our desire but inability to
+relieve all, I was conducted through the wards to a miserable being who
+was seated with his head suspended in a sling from the top of the bed,
+both legs dreadfully shattered, and unable to support himself upright
+through extreme weakness.</p>
+
+<p>During the whole of supper-time the Hospital and this Englishman hung
+heavy on my mind; I felt as if I had not done enough, and that I might
+be of use in writing to his friends. Accordingly about 10 o'clock I went
+again to the Gate and begged admittance. On mentioning my wish to see
+the Englishman, I was immediately allowed to enter, and conducted up the
+wards. On each side were small beds, clean, and in admirable order;
+there was nothing to interrupt the silence but our own echoing footsteps
+and the groans of the poor patients all round. The Nurses were in the
+costume of Nuns, and from religious principles undertake<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_167" id="page_167">[167]</a></span> the care of
+the sick&mdash;there was something very awful in marching up the aisles with
+these conductors at this time. My poor countryman was asleep when I came
+to his bedside. I took down memorandums of his case, and promised to
+write to his friends, and left him money to assist him on his road home,
+should he (of which I much doubt) ever recover.</p>
+
+<p>I staid with him some time; in the course of the conversation some
+wounded Prussians came up on their crutches, and it was quite gratifying
+to see their kindness and goodwill to this poor fellow who, sole of his
+nation and kindred, was wasting away amongst strangers. They patted him
+on his head, called him their <i>cher</i> and <i>bon gar�on</i>, lifted him up
+that he might see and hear better, and he assured me that by them and by
+all the attendants he was treated with the utmost kindness and
+attention. Amongst 400 wounded soldiers whose deep groans and ghastly
+countenances announced that many were almost passing the barrier which
+separates the mortal from the immortal, with their nurses by my side
+holding their glimmering tapers, each arrayed in the order of their
+religion and wearing the Cross as the badge of their profession, was a
+situation in which I had never before been placed. In offering
+ministerial advice, and, I trust, affording religious consolation under
+circumstances so solemn and peculiar, you may conceive that I did speak
+with all the earnestness and fervour in my power. I told the nurses who
+and what I was, and so far from<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_168" id="page_168">[168]</a></span> entertaining any illiberal ideas as to
+the propriety of my interfering in what might be called their clerical
+department, they expressed the greatest pleasure and seemed to rejoice
+that their patient was visited by one of his own ministers.... Thus
+ended my visit to the Hospital at Rheims, which I never can forget.</p>
+
+<p>We travelled the next day to Verdun, bidding adieu to the Hibberts at
+Ch�lons.</p>
+
+<p>You will ask if we have seen any vestiges of war on the soil such as
+bodies. We have met with a tolerable quantity of dead horses by the
+road-side and in ditches, but only one human being, half scratched up by
+a dog, has appeared; a few rags of uniform dangling upon the skeleton
+bones called our attention to it.</p>
+
+<p>Verdun is a very comfortable town of considerable extent decently
+fortified; the number of English there was from 1,000 to 1,100; they
+were all sent off in a hurry. At 5 in the evening they received the
+order, at 7 the next morning the greater part were off, and 24 hours
+afterward the Allies hovered round the town. The French boast, and
+nobody can contradict the assertion, that the Allies were never able to
+take their fortresses; certainly not; for they never attempted. Instead
+of losing their time in besieging, they left a few to mark the place and
+went on.... The English prisoners seem to have enjoyed every comfort
+they could expect&mdash;in fact, their imprisonment was in great measure
+nominal; with little difficulty they were allowed to go as far as they
+wished; they were noticed by the inhabitants, and many have married and
+settled in France. I think the prisoners in England have not been so
+well off, and complain with reason.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image168" id="image168"></a>
+<a href="images/168.jpg">
+<img src="images/168_th.jpg" width="650" height="394" alt="VERDUN BRIDGE.
+To face p. 168." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">
+<br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 168.</span></span>
+
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_169" id="page_169">[169]</a></span>We went to the English church and Theatre, and saw as much as we could
+for half a day. For the honor of my country I lament to say that many
+here contracted heavy debts which are not likely to be paid. Some
+instances were mentioned, the truth of which were proved by letters I
+read from the parties themselves, little creditable to our national
+character, and by persons, too, who ought to have known better. On the
+18th we left Verdun for Metz. I had always winked at and generally
+encouraged the addition of another passenger behind our Cabriolet. The
+road was quite crowded with straggling soldiers going or returning to
+their several homes or regiments. We rarely passed in a day less than 2
+or 300, and really sometimes in situations so very favorable to robbing
+that I am surprised we were never attacked, their appearance being
+generally stamped with a character perfectly congenial to the Banditti
+Trade&mdash;dark, whiskered, sunburnt visages, with ragged uniform and naked
+feet. Sometimes we were more fortunate than at others; for instance,
+stragglers from the Hamburg garrison, whose wan faces bore testimony to
+the fact they related of having lived for the last 4 or 5 months on
+horseflesh; but our charitable assistance was to be this day most
+abundantly rewarded. We<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_170" id="page_170">[170]</a></span> overtook a poor fellow, more wretched than most
+we had seen, toiling away with his bivouacking cloak tied round him. He,
+too, solicited, and misunderstanding my answer, said in the most
+pitiable but submissive tone, "Alors, Monsieur ne permettra pas que je
+monte?" "Tout au contraire," said I, "Montez tout de suite." After
+proceeding a little way I thought I might as well see who we had got
+behind us, and guess my astonishment when I received the answer. Who do
+you imagine, of all the people in the world, Buonaparte had raked forth
+to secure the Imperial Diadem upon his brow, to fight his battles, and
+deal in blood, but&mdash;A monk of La Trappe. For three years had he resided
+in Silence and solitude in this most severe society when Buonaparte
+suppressed it, and insisted that all the Noviciate Monks in No. 36
+should sally forth and henceforth wield both their swords and their
+tongues; with lingering steps and slow our poor companion went. In the
+battle of Lutzen<a name="FNanchor_81_81" id="FNanchor_81_81"></a><a href="#Footnote_81_81" class="fnanchor">[81]</a> he fought and conquered. In Leipsic<a name="FNanchor_82_82" id="FNanchor_82_82"></a><a href="#Footnote_82_82" class="fnanchor">[82]</a> he fought
+and fell&mdash;the <i>wind</i> of a shot tore his eye out and struck him down, and
+the shot killed his next neighbour upon the spot; he was taken prisoner
+by the Swedes, and was now returning from Stockholm to his brethren near
+Fribourg. The simplicity with which he told his tale bore ample
+testimony to the Truth, but in addition he shewed me his Rosary and
+credentials. After having talked over the battle I changed the subject,
+and determined to see<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_171" id="page_171">[171]</a></span> if he could wield the sword of controversy as
+well as of war; and accordingly telling him who I was, asked his opinion
+of the Protestant Faith and the chief points of difference between us.
+He hesitated a little at first: "Attendez, Monsieur, il faut que je
+pense un peu." In about a minute he tapped at the carriage. "Eh bien,
+Monsieur, j'ai pens�," and then entered upon the subject, which he
+discussed with much good sense and ability, sometimes in Latin,
+sometimes in French; and though he supported his argument well and
+manfully, he displayed a liberality of sentiment and a spirit of true
+Christianity which quite attached me to him. I asked him his opinion of
+the <i>salvability</i> of protestants and infallibility of Catholics.
+"Ecoutez moi," was his reply. "Je pense que ceux qui savent que la
+Religion Catholique est la vraie Religion et ne la pratiquent pas,
+seront damn�s, mais pour ceux qui ne pensent pas comme nous. Oh non,
+Se�or, ne le croyez pas. Oh mon Dieu! non, non! jamais, jamais!" "Are
+you <i>quite sure</i> a minister ought not to marry? You will recollect St.
+Peter was a married man." "Oh que, oui, c'est vrai, mais le moment qu'il
+suivit notre Seigneur on n'entend plus de sa femme." From this we
+proceeded to various other topics, amongst others to the propriety of
+renouncing a religion in which we conceived there were erroneous
+opinions. "Se�or, �coutez," said he, "can that religion be good which
+springs from a bad principle? Les Anglois �taient une fois des bons
+Catholiques; le Divorce d'un Roi capri<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_172" id="page_172">[172]</a></span>cieux fut la cause de leur
+changement. Ah, cela n'�tait pas bon." ...</p>
+
+<p>When we were on the point of parting he turned to me: "Se�or, j'esp�re
+que je ne vous ai pas fach�, si je me suis exprim� trop fortement devant
+vous qui m'avez tant rendu service, il faut me pardonner, je suis pauvre
+et malheureux, mais je pensois que c'�tait mon devoir."</p>
+
+<p>It was as lucky a meeting for him as for me. I assisted him with money
+to expedite him homewards, and he entertained and interested me all the
+way to Metz, when, much against my will, we parted, for had he been
+going to Pekin I should have accommodated him with a seat....</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> IX.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Cologne</span>, <i>July 25th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>If you could see what I now see, or form any ideas adequate to the
+scenery around me, you would indeed prize a letter which, though
+commenced at 4 in the morning, cannot be valued at a less price than 2
+or 3 old Castles; but it is not yet the moment to sing the praises of
+the Rhine. I shall only say that we slept at Bacharach, and that I am
+now looking at 4 old Castles whenever I raise my eyes from the paper,
+and that a fine old Abbey is only eclipsed by the gable end of a Church,
+equally curious, which is almost thrusting itself into the window as if
+to look at the strangers.</p>
+
+<p>Little enlivened our day after parting with our Monk, unless I should
+except a good scene from<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_173" id="page_173">[173]</a></span> a picture which happened at one of the Post
+houses. No Postillions were at home, so the Landlord himself was to
+drive&mdash;an enormous man, rather infirm, with a night-cap on his head,
+from whence emerged a long pigtail. It was necessary he should be put
+into his Jack boots. By Jack boots you are to understand two large
+things as big as portmanteaus, always reminding me of boots fit for the
+leg which appears in the Castle of Otranto. Accordingly no less than 4
+or 5 persons actually lifted the Landlord into his boots, an operation
+which, from the weight and infirmities of the one and the extreme
+clumsiness of the others, took up nearly a quarter of an hour; and, of
+course, when fairly deposited in them he was unable to move, and further
+help was necessary to place him on the saddle.... The first view of
+Metz, after traversing an uninteresting country, is remarkably fine. It
+stands in a fine rich plain, near though beyond the reach of an
+eminence&mdash;for it does not deserve the name of a mountain&mdash;the sides of
+which are covered with woods, villages, and vineyards. There is
+something very grand in entering a fortified Town&mdash;the clattering of
+drawbridges, appearance of moats, guns, sentinels, and all the other
+etceteras of war. Our passports were demanded for the first time. At
+length we were allowed to pass, and found ourselves in a large, clean
+town, chiefly remarkable for its Cathedral, the painted window of which
+was equal to any I ever saw. The first thing we invariably do in these<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_174" id="page_174">[174]</a></span>
+towns is to ascend the highest spire, from whence the general plan and
+position are at once explained. You need not be alarmed. There is no
+fever at present at Metz, or on the Rhine; but there has been. From the
+close of 1813 and until the last two months not less than 69,000 sick or
+wounded have been in the hospitals of Metz&mdash;a large Church contained
+about 3,000 at a time, the remainder were scattered about wherever they
+could find room, and many breathed their last in the streets. Of course,
+such a concourse of dead and dying infested the air to a certain degree,
+and a fever was the result. However, not above 2 or 300 inhabitants
+suffered. Of the sick troops from 12 to 1,500 per day were buried
+without the town, and quicklime thrown in. We supped with three or four
+Frenchmen and a Genoese officer, one of Buonaparte's Imperial <i>Elites</i>
+of the Guard. His form and countenance were quite Vandyck&mdash;I never
+looked upon a face so well calculated for a picture; his dark whiskers
+and black curling hair composed an admirable frame for a couple of the
+most expressive eyes; his manners were extremely gentleman-like, and you
+may conceive I did not talk and look at him with any diminution of
+interest when I found he was on his way home from Moscow. He had gone
+through the whole of the retreat, had almost reached the boundaries of
+Poland, when at Calick he was wounded, taken prisoner, and marched back
+to Moscow. His description of the miseries of that horrible retreat<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_175" id="page_175">[175]</a></span> was
+petrifying&mdash;when a horse fell it was instantly surrounded by famished
+Frenchmen, who devoured the carcase; not merely those who slept were
+frozen, but even sentries upon their posts. Yet with all this he imputed
+no blame to Buonaparte. The Russians, he said, had reason to thank the
+severity of their climate, without which they must have been completely
+conquered. I will say this, indeed, that the Russians themselves seem to
+consider their own efforts as rather secondary to the weather. Besides
+this officer we had a Citizen of Metz, a young officer of the
+Polytechnique School who had fought at Montmartre, and a youth who was
+silent; the other 3, however, made ample amends, talking incessantly,
+and all equally vehement in praise of Buonaparte. The officer blessed
+his stars that he had enough to live upon, and that he was now quitting
+a service which, having lost its brightest ornament, was no longer
+interesting or supportable. The young Polytechnique was equally violent,
+with less of the gentleman to soften it down. He, too, was disgusted,
+and had retired for the same reason (these Frenchmen are sad liars after
+all). Of course, as he had been engaged with his school companions I
+thought I could not have a better opportunity of ascertaining the number
+killed at Montmartre, as it was invariably circulated and believed at
+Paris that this defence was noble to a degree and that the greater part
+perished by their guns. You will recollect that the Polytechnique cadets
+I met on the heights of Montmartre said the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_176" id="page_176">[176]</a></span> same, and yet the youth
+asserted that they had not lost a single individual, that only 30 were
+wounded, whereas they knocked over the Russians in countless
+multitudes.<a name="FNanchor_83_83" id="FNanchor_83_83"></a><a href="#Footnote_83_83" class="fnanchor">[83]</a> The Citizen took the best ground for his Panegyric. He
+referred us to the roads, the public buildings, the national
+improvements which France had gained under the dynasty of Napoleon; and
+when I hinted the intolerable weight of the taxes (being &#8533; on all
+rents and property) he made light of them, assuring me that Frenchmen
+had quite enough left for the comforts of life. When they all filled
+their glasses to drink to the health of their hero I turned to the
+Genoese officer and begged first to drink to the restoration of Genoa to
+that independence of which Napoleon had in great measure deprived her,
+adding that her present degradation was a cruel contrast to the
+dignified station she once held in Europe. His national superseded his
+Imperial feelings, and he drank my toast with great good humour and
+satisfaction; nor did he think it necessary in return to press me to
+drink success to the Emperor, though the Citizen on my refusal, half in
+joke, half in earnest, said he wished I might be ill off for the rest of
+my journey.</p>
+
+<p>My good fortune has not quitted me, however. The next morning on getting
+into the Diligence we found only one passenger&mdash;Major Kleist, nephew to
+the celebrated Prussian General and to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_177" id="page_177">[177]</a></span> General Tousein&mdash;a Russian
+equally famous here though not so well known in England. His appearance
+was much in his favor; he talked a great deal; had commanded a regiment
+of the Russian Imperial Elites of the Guard (in which he still was) at
+the battle of Leipsic and throughout the campaign; been engaged in every
+action from the Borodino to the capture of Paris; wounded two or three
+times; fought a French Officer in the Bois de Boulogne, and got his
+finger cut abominably; visited London and Portsmouth with his Emperor,
+dined with the Regent, &amp;c. He told me many interesting anecdotes and
+particulars, although, from a certain random way of speaking and the
+loose, unconnected manner in which his words dropped from him, I could
+not place implicit confidence in what he said, nor vouch for the
+accuracy of his accounts. He said decidedly that Alexander had visited
+the Princess of Wales in London incog.; he mentioned an anecdote which I
+cannot quite believe, because had it occurred in Paris we must have
+heard of it. One day when Eug�ne Beauharnais was with Louis XVIII.
+Marmont came in. Eug�ne, on seeing him, turned to the King, said, "Sire,
+here is a Traitor; do not trust in him; he has betrayed one master, he
+may betray you."</p>
+
+<p>Marmont, of course, challenged him; they fought the next day and Marmont
+was wounded in the arm. He spoke highly of the King of Prussia as a
+military, unassuming, amiable, sensible man, and that<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_178" id="page_178">[178]</a></span> he <i>does</i> visit
+the tomb of his wife.<a name="FNanchor_84_84" id="FNanchor_84_84"></a><a href="#Footnote_84_84" class="fnanchor">[84]</a> Alexander, he said, was fond of diplomacy, an
+amiable man, very brave, but not much of a general. I asked him what he
+thought of the Duchess of Oldenburg. When I said she had excellent sense
+and great information, he simply replied, "Oui, et peut-�tre un pen
+trop." Of Constantine<a name="FNanchor_85_85" id="FNanchor_85_85"></a><a href="#Footnote_85_85" class="fnanchor">[85]</a> he spoke with indignation, and his whiskers
+vibrated as he described his detestable character&mdash;debauched, depraved,
+cruel, dishonest, and a coward. Constantine was abusing a Colonel in
+very gross tones, a short time ago, for misconduct and incompetency in
+battle. "Indeed!" said the officer; "you must have been misinformed;
+this cannot arise from your own observation, as I do not recollect
+having ever seen you near me upon these occasions."</p>
+
+<p>No wonder the Russians were moderate towards the inhabitants during the
+campaign&mdash;their discipline was severe enough. Our friend the Major
+caught 7 Cossacks plundering a cottage; he had them all tied up and
+knouted them to death by the moderate infliction of 1,000 blows each. In
+truth he seemed to hold the lives of these gentlemen, including the
+Calmucs, rather cheap. "Pour moi," said he, "Je considere un Cossac, un
+Calmuc et un Moineau � peu pr�s comme la m�me chose."</p>
+
+<p>At St. Avold we again fell in with a regiment of Russians, or rather
+detachments from many<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_179" id="page_179">[179]</a></span> regiments. Whoever they were they did not appear
+to be in high favour with the Major. "Our army," said he, "is divided
+into three classes&mdash;the first we can trust for discipline and ability;
+the second consists of Cossacks and other irregulars, whose business is
+reconnoitring, plundering, and running away when they see the Enemy; the
+men before you compose the third&mdash;fellows who know nothing and do
+nothing, but can stand quietly in the place assigned them and get killed
+one after another without ever thinking of turning their backs"; and
+their appearance was very like their character&mdash;patient, heavy,
+slumbering, hard-featured countenance; sitting or standing without any
+appearance of animation.</p>
+
+<p>At St. Avold we began to lose the French language, and from this my
+fluency was reduced to signs, or at most to a very laconic speech&mdash;"Ich
+Englander, Ich woll haben Brod mitt Caf�," &amp;c. At Dendrich, a little
+village near Forbach, we crossed the new line of demarcation between
+France and Austria, and found the towns chiefly occupied by Bavarians.
+Unless I am much mistaken, this country will soon be a bone of
+contention; the people (as far as I can judge in three days) are
+dissatisfied, and the leaders of France look with a jealous eye on the
+encroachment, and an imaginary line of separation will not easily be
+respected. Here I saw what is meant by a German forest&mdash;as far as the
+eye could reach all was wood. Austria may, if she pleases, by her new
+accession<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_180" id="page_180">[180]</a></span> of territory become charcoal vendor to the whole world. The
+road is excellent, carried on in a fine, broad, straight line. Till
+Buonaparte spoke the word, there was no regular communication between
+Metz and Mayence, now there is not a more noble road for travelling. We
+were now in the Hock country; in the Villages we bought what I should
+have called wine of the same sort for 6d. a bottle....</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday, the 21st, we entered Mayence, over and through similar
+drawbridges, bastions, hornworks, counterscarps as at Metz; here we met
+a curious assemblage. By the first Gate were stationed a guard of
+Prussians with the British Lions on their caps, John Bull having
+supplied some Prussian Regiments with Uniforms. At the next gate a band
+of white Austrians, with their caps shaded with boughs of Acacia (you
+will remember that their custom of wearing green boughs in their Hats
+was interpreted by the French into a premeditated insult). These, with
+Saxons in red, Bavarians in light blue, and Russians in green, made out
+the remainder of the motley crew. We found an excellent Inn, and dined
+at a Table d'H�te with about 30 people. The striking contrast we already
+perceived between the French and Austrians was very amusing, the former
+all bustle and loquacity with dark hair, the latter grave and sedate
+with light hair; the Inns, accommodation, eating, &amp;c., much cleaner; a
+band played to us during dinner, and I was pleased to see the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_181" id="page_181">[181]</a></span> Austrian
+moustachios recede with a smile of satisfaction as they listened to the
+"Chasse de Henri Quatre."</p>
+
+<p>There is little to be seen in the town. I found a most intelligent
+bookseller, and was tantalised with the number of fine Engravings, &amp;c.,
+I might have purchased for a trifle....</p>
+
+<p>I have heard a curious political report repeated here, which is current
+all over the Continent&mdash;that Austria has sold the Netherlands and
+Brabant to England; the report gains credit probably because the towns
+in that part of the country are still garrisoned with British troops.
+Poor England is certainly not much beloved; we are admired, feared,
+respected, and courted; but these people will have, and perhaps with
+some reason, that upon all occasions our own Interest is the sole object
+of consideration; that our Treaties have the good of ourselves and not
+the peace of Europe at heart; and so far they carry this opinion, that I
+was very near getting into a quarrel with a fat man in the Diligence who
+spoke it as a common idea that we fought with our money and not with our
+blood, for that we were too rich to risk our lives, and had there been a
+bridge that Napoleon would have been in London long ago. I told him he
+knew nothing at all about the matter (to which, by the bye, he
+afterwards virtually assented), and as a Frenchman's choler does not
+last long, we were good friends the rest of the journey, and he
+apologised for his behaviour, saying, it was a failing<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_182" id="page_182">[182]</a></span> of his&mdash;"de
+s'�chauffer bient�t." Upon one point we agreed, too, in politics, viz.,
+being Anti-Napoleonites.</p>
+
+<p>Now for the Rhine. At 10 o'clock on Friday, July 22nd, in a little
+rotten, picturesque-looking boat and two men (preferring a private
+conveyance to the public passage boats for the convenience of stopping
+at pleasure) we left Mayence; the river here is about half a mile
+across, traversable by a bridge of boats. The Maine falls into it just
+above the town, and there appears nothing on the Frankfort or Strasburgh
+side to interest a traveller's eye, the country being flat vine or corn
+land. The Stream runs with a steady rapidity of about three and a half
+or 4 miles an hour, so that in a boat, with the addition of oars, you
+may proceed at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. The distance to
+Cologne is about 120 miles. On the bank of the River we saw some of
+those immense floats preparing which are composed of timbers for the
+Holland markets. We glided with an imperceptible motion down the stream,
+expecting as we proceeded to behold the magnificent ruins of which we
+had heard so much. But, alas! village succeeded village, town followed
+town, and yet not a single turret made its appearance. We sat with our
+sketch books in battle array, but our pencils were asleep; we began to
+regret the uninteresting, even country we had passed from Metz to
+Mayence, and the time which might be called lost in coming so far for so
+useless a purpose, and<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_183" id="page_183">[183]</a></span> to make vow after vow that we would never in
+future believe the account given by others respecting people and places.
+By this time our appetites began to grow keen, luckily, just at the time
+when our spirits began to flag, and, accordingly, we went on shore at
+Rudesheim, famous for its excellent hock, and having dispatched a dinner
+and bottle of hock we ventured forth to explore, and, luckily, fell in
+with a little Gothic round tower, which, with the dinner, rather raised
+our spirits and enabled us to proceed 4 or 5 miles further to Bingen
+when we turned a Corner....</p>
+
+<p>I verily believe such another corner does not exist in the world. From
+the corner of Bingen must be dated the beauties of the Rhine, and from
+the corner of Bingen I commence my next letter; suffice it now to say
+that the moment we turned the Corner we both, with one impulse, called
+out, "Oh!" and sat in the boat with our hands uplifted in speechless
+astonishment....</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> X.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Aix la Chapelle</span>, <i>July 27, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I left you turning the corner of Bingen, now let me describe what there
+presented itself. On the left a beautiful picturesque town, with tower
+and picturesque-looking steeples placed each exactly on the spot an
+artist would have selected, with hills and woods on each side and a
+bridge running over a small river which emptied itself in the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_184" id="page_184">[184]</a></span> Rhine.
+Immediately before us, on a small islet, stood the Tower of Mausthurm,
+or the Mouse turret, so called from a tradition that a Baron once locked
+up a number of his Vassals in a tower and then set fire to it and
+consumed it and its inhabitants, in consequence of which certain mice
+haunted him by day and by night to such a degree that he fled his
+Country and built this solitary Tower on its island. But all this would
+not do. The Mice pursued him to his Island, and the tale ends in his
+being devoured by them there.</p>
+
+<p>On both sides the river hills covered with vines and woods rose
+abruptly, and on the right, tottering on a pinnacle that frowns over the
+flood, stood the Castle of Ehrenfels....</p>
+
+<p>It would be quite impossible, and indeed unnecessary (as my sketch-book
+can best unfold the tale), to describe all we saw. For above 100 miles,
+with little interruption, the same scenery presented itself, attaining
+its superlative point of grandeur in the neighbourhood of Lorich and
+Bacharach. It might be called a perfect Louvre of old Castles, each
+being a chef d'&#339;uvre of its species. I could almost doubt the
+interference of a human hand in their creation. Placed upon elevated and
+apparently impossible crags, they look more like the fortresses of the
+Giants when they warred against the Gods than any thing else. But the
+Castles were not the only points of attraction. Every mile presented a
+village as interesting<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_185" id="page_185">[185]</a></span> as the battlements which threatened to crush
+them to death from above. Each vied with its neighbour in picturesque
+beauty, and the people as well as the buildings in these remote nooks
+and corners partook of the wild character of the scenery. A shower of
+rain and close of the day induced us to make Bacharach our
+sleeping-place. The Landlord, with his night-cap on his head and pipe in
+his mouth, expressed no surprise at our appearance. The coffee and the
+milk and the hock came in due season when he had nodded acquiescence to
+my demand, and he puffed away with as much indifference as if two
+strange Englishmen had not been in his house. We found good clean beds,
+and should have slept very well but for the deep-toned Bell of the
+Church within a few yards of us, which tolled the time of night every
+half-hour, and for a watchman who, by way of murdering the little sleep
+which had survived the sound of the Bell, sounded with all his might a
+cow-horn, and then, as if perfectly satisfied that he had awaked every
+soul in the village, bawled out the hour and retired, leaving them just
+time to fall asleep again before the half-hour called for a repetition
+of his exertions.</p>
+
+<p>Every evening about dusk, in our course down the river, a curious
+Phenomenon presented itself which to me, as an Entomologist, had
+peculiar charms. We were surrounded as far as the eye could reach with
+what appeared to be a fall of snow, but which, in fact, was a cloud of
+beautiful<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_186" id="page_186">[186]</a></span> white Ephemera just emerged from their Chrysalis state to
+flutter away in their perfection for one or two hours before their
+death. I mention this circumstance now, whilst it is fresh in my memory,
+for I really should hesitate in relating it before company for fear of
+being accused of traveller's stories. I had heard of them before, and
+was therefore not so much surprised, though the infinite number was
+truly astonishing.</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday, 23rd, we dined and spent an hour or two in Coblentz, which,
+situated at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, is strongly
+fortified towards the land. There is little worth notice in the town
+except a Stone fountain erected by Napoleon, from the pipes of which run
+the united streams of the two rivers. Upon these are carved in large
+letters the two following inscriptions, the one immediately below the
+other in characters precisely similar:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="c">
+A.N. MDCCCXII.<br />
+M�morable par la Campagne<br />
+Contre les Russes<br />
+Sous la Pr�fecture de Jules Dragon.<br />
+<span style="letter-spacing:20px;">* * * * *<br /></span>
+Vu et approuv� par nous<br />
+Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz<br />
+Le Ier. Janvier 1814.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>At Coblentz as well as at Cologne the Rhine is passed by a flying
+bridge&mdash;<i>i.e.</i>, a large boat moored to several other smaller ones, whose
+only use is to keep the large one steady. It swings from bank<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_187" id="page_187">[187]</a></span> to bank,
+according as the mooring line is placed on one side or the other, merely
+by the action of the current producing a sort of compound motion.
+Coblentz is completely commanded by the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, a
+rock as high as Dover, the summit and side covered with the ruins of the
+fortress which the French blew up. The people in this country are pretty
+well satisfied with the change of affairs. They led a life of
+unsupportable tyranny under the rod of Napoleon. The river was crowded
+with custom house officers. Not a man could pass without being
+personally searched for Coffee and sugar in every part of his dress. All
+they lament now is the uncertainty of their fate. Many expressed a hope
+that the report of their being sold to England might be true. All they
+want is certainty, and then their commerce will revive. As it is,
+nothing can be more uninteresting in a commercial point of view than
+this noble river. We did not see above a dozen Merchants' barks in the
+course of 120 miles, and yet they say trade is tenfold greater than when
+Napoleon governed. Below Coblentz we passed some of the Ch�teaux of the
+German Princes, which are generally large, uncomfortable-looking houses,
+fitted up, as far as external examination allowed us to judge, without
+taste. The river became rather dull, but at Andernach, where we slept,
+it began to improve and to promise better for the next morning, and for
+some miles we were not disappointed.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_188" id="page_188">[188]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We were under the necessity of travelling on the Sunday, which in our
+situation I certainly held to be no crime. What I could do I did in
+inducing our Boatmen to attend their Mass. Religion, which appears to be
+nearly extinct in France, is by no means so in Germany. We find the
+churches all well attended and plentifully scattered over the whole
+country. In the course of the morning we passed a large Chapel dedicated
+to St. Apollonius, and noted for its Miracles, all of which were
+recorded by our Boatmen with the air of implicit reverence and belief.
+It happened to be the festival of the Saint, and from a distance of 10
+or 20 miles even the road was crowded with persons going or coming to
+their favourite shrine. You will recollect what Mme. de Sta�l says of
+the Germans' taste for religious music. Of this we had a specimen
+to-day. As we passed the height upon which the Chapel stood a boat
+containing 40 or 50 people put off from the shore and preceded us for
+several miles chaunting almost the whole way hymns and psalms. In the
+Evening, soon after leaving Bonn, we came up with another containing
+about 120, who every quarter of an hour delighted us with the same
+strains. They glided with the stream, and gave us time to row alongside,
+and we continued in their company the remainder of the day.</p>
+
+<p>Could I have heard and not have seen all would have been perfect, but
+the charm was almost broken by the heterogeneous mixture of piety and
+indif<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_189" id="page_189">[189]</a></span>ference, outward practice and inward negligence. Some were telling
+their beads and chattering Pater Nosters, some were at one moment on
+their knees, in the next quarrelling with their neighbour; but, after
+all, the general effect was so solemn and imposing that I was willing to
+spare my criticisms, and give them credit for perhaps more than they
+deserved. Conceive such a concourse of persons, on one of the finest
+Evenings imaginable, floating silently with the stream, and then at a
+signal given bursting forth into songs of praise to God&mdash;all perfect in
+their respective parts, now loud, now low, the softer tones of the women
+at one time singing alone. If the value of a Sabbath depends on the
+religious feelings excited, I may safely say I have passed few so
+valuable. They had no Priest amongst them, the hymns were the
+spontaneous flow of the moment. Whenever one began the rest were sure to
+follow.</p>
+
+<p>When upon the subject of music I must be the advocate of Mme. de Sta�l.
+She has been accused of falsehood in stating that in the Cottages in
+Germany a Piano Forte was a necessary piece of furniture. I cannot from
+my own knowledge go quite so far, but from my short experience of German
+manners I may safely say there is no nation in which Music is so
+popular. We have heard the notes of pianos and harpsichords issuing from
+holes and corners where they might least be expected, and as for flutes
+and other instruments,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_190" id="page_190">[190]</a></span> there is scarcely a village in which, in the
+course of an hour, you will not hear a dozen.</p>
+
+<p>At Cologne we were lodged at a French Inn kept by the landlord and his
+wife alone&mdash;no waiters, no other attendance&mdash;and yet the house was
+spacious, clean, and excellent. I never met with more attention and wish
+to accommodate, and not only in the house; the exertions of our host
+were exerted still further in our behalf. He introduced us to a Club
+chiefly composed of French Germans, who were as hospitably inclined as
+himself. One gentleman invited us to his house, would give us some
+excellent hock, introduced us to his family, amongst the rest a little
+fellow with a sabre by his side, with curling locks and countenance and
+manner interesting as Owen's. Hearing I was fond of pictures and painted
+glass, he carried me to a fine old Connoisseur, his father-in-law, whose
+fears and temper were a good deal roused by the "peste," as he termed
+it, of still having half a dozen Cossacks in his house. However, they
+were officers, and by his own account did him no harm whatever; but for
+fear of accidents he had unpanelled his great dining-room. Our friend
+had a large and excellent house, in a style very unlike and far more
+magnificent than is usually met with in England. In return for his
+civility I was delighted to have it in my power to give him a few ounces
+of our Pecco Tea which remained of our original stock. Travelling in
+Germany is certainly<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_191" id="page_191">[191]</a></span> neither luxurious nor rapid; the custom of hiring
+a carriage for a certain distance and taking post horses does not extend
+here, and you are therefore reduced to the following dilemma, either
+taking a Carriage and the same horses for your journey or the "Post
+Waggon," or Diligence, which is of the two rather more rapid. Of two
+evils we preferred the last, and at half-past 8 this morning were landed
+at Aix la Chapelle, having performed the journey of 45 miles in 12 and a
+half hours shaken to death, choked with dust, and poisoned with tobacco,
+for here a great hooked pipe is as necessary an appendage to the mouth
+as the tongue itself. Under the circumstances above mentioned, with the
+Thermometer at about 98 into the bargain, you may conceive we were
+heartily glad to run from the coach office to the Baths as instinctively
+as young ducks. On looking over the list of persons visiting the place,
+we were delighted to find the names of Lord and Lady Glenbervie<a name="FNanchor_86_86" id="FNanchor_86_86"></a><a href="#Footnote_86_86" class="fnanchor">[86]</a> and
+Mr. North.<a name="FNanchor_87_87" id="FNanchor_87_87"></a><a href="#Footnote_87_87" class="fnanchor">[87]</a> Accordingly, having first ascended the highest steeple in
+the town, and been more disgusted than in any place I have seen since
+Spain, with virgins and dolls in beads and muslins, and pomatum and
+relics of saints' beards, and napkins from our Saviour's tomb, and
+mummeries quite disgraceful, we went to call upon them....<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_192" id="page_192">[192]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We find this, like every other town and village, swarming with Prussian
+troops. General Kleist commands, and has no less an army than 170,000.
+This seems very like a determination of the King of Prussia not to give
+up the slice he has gained in the grand continental scramble. Every
+uniform we saw was of British manufacture. An officer told me we had
+furnished sufficient for 70,000 Infantry and 20,000 Cavalry.</p>
+
+<p>There is little to be seen in this place. The country about reminded me
+most of England; for the first time on the continent we saw hedges and
+trees of tolerable size growing amongst them. We were directed above all
+other things to pay our respects to the great gambling table. It is,
+indeed, one of the Lions of the Town; the room is splendid in size, and
+everybody goes to see it. It is open 3 times a day for about 2 or 3
+hours each time. About 50 or 60 people were winning or losing round a
+large table at a game apparently something like vingt un; not a word was
+said, but money was shovelled to the right and left very plentifully....
+I forgot to mention that near Linz on the Rhine we passed a headland
+fronted and inlaid with as fine a range of Basaltic columns as the
+Giant's Causeway, some bent, some leaning, some upright. They are
+plentiful throughout that part of the country, and are remarkably
+regular; all the stone posts are formed of them, and even here I still
+see them....<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_193" id="page_193">[193]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image193" id="image193"></a>
+<a href="images/193.jpg">
+<img src="images/193_th.jpg" width="650" height="319" alt="FRENCH DILIGENCE." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">FRENCH DILIGENCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> XI.</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Bruxelles</span>, <i>29th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>After a night and greater part of two days passed in a species of oven
+called a French Diligence, with R�aumur Thermometer at 23&mdash;hotter, you
+will observe, than is necessary to hatch silkworms, and very nearly
+sufficient to annihilate your unfortunate brother and husband&mdash;did we
+arrive at Bruxelles.... I must give you a few details that you may fully
+understand the extent of our misery. We arrived at Li�ge all well, with
+only two other passengers; conceive our sorrow when on re-entering the
+Diligence after dinner we found besides ourselves and a lady the places
+occupied by a Dutch officer, who sat gasping without his coat, and so
+far exhausted by the heat, though he had been ten years in Batavia, that
+his pipe hung dangling as if he had not breath sufficient to keep its
+vestal fire alive, and a lady with two children besides living
+intruders. A net from the top was filled with bags, baskets, and
+band-boxes. Our night was sad indeed, and the groans of our
+fellow-travellers and the ineffectual fluttering of a fan which the
+Officer used proved how little they were satisfied with the order of
+things. The children were crammed with a succession of French Plums,
+almonds, garlicked mutton, liqueurs, and hock, all of which ingredients
+the kind mother endeavoured to cement on their Stomachs by Basons of
+milk at sunrise, but no sooner had a few additional jolts<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_194" id="page_194">[194]</a></span> brought these
+bons-bons into close contact than the windows were occupied the rest of
+the journey by the stretched-out heads of the poor children.</p>
+
+<p>The heat has been more excessive for the last 4 or 5 days than has been
+experienced for many years in this country; and, in short, when <i>I</i>
+think it worth while to mention heat as the cause of real inconvenience,
+you may consider it such as would have thrown you into a fever. Enough
+of our personal sufferings, which you may easily conceive have been few
+indeed if the above is worth recording....</p>
+
+<p>I left Aix la Chapelle with no great regret. The Country round it is
+pretty, much resembling Kent, but as a town or watering-place it has
+nothing to recommend but its gambling-table. I expected to have found a
+museum of human nature and national character.&mdash;Tables d'h�tes crowded
+with the best bred of all countries, but just the reverse. There were
+Tables d'h�te's at the minor Inns tolerably frequented, but none at the
+most fashionable; there the guests lived by themselves. There is no
+point of rendezvous, no promenade, no Assembly room, where the
+concentrated world may be seen. Like Swedenborgh's theory of living in
+the midst of invisible spirits, so at Aix la Chapelle (unless time and
+opportunity may have thrown him into private circles) a traveller may be
+surrounded by Princes and Potentates without knowing or benefiting by
+their illustrious presence; the Glenbervies made the same complaint.
+From Aix to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_195" id="page_195">[195]</a></span> Li�ge we had the company of a very pleasant, well-informed
+citizen of Li�ge (indeed, all the military classes in Germany seem well
+informed), who in pathetic terms lamented his lot. In the cutting up of
+this grand continental dish Prussia has had Benjamin's mess in this part
+of the country. We have his troops, with few exceptions, forming a
+cordon within the Rhine from Saarbruck to Li�ge, and they are by no
+means popular. We have clothed them, and all the people feed them,
+besides having been called upon for contributions. It is flattering to
+see the high respect shown to the British character, which increases as
+opportunities occur of observing its effects. If we were like the people
+of Bruxelles (said our Li�geois) all would be well; we should rejoice in
+having a garrison. British troops, so far from exacting contributions or
+demanding free quarters, pay for everything, are beloved by the people,
+and money circulates, whereas under the Prussian government we pay all,
+are put to all manner of inconvenience, and receive neither thanks nor
+satisfaction. They appear to have been peculiarly unfortunate in all
+wars. Poor Li�ge has received a thump from one, a kick from another, and
+been robbed by a third. The Austrians have burnt their Suburbs, the
+Republicans sold their national and ecclesiastical Estates, and lately
+they have had the pleasure of being pillaged by French Marshals and
+satisfying the voracious appetite of the Crown Prince, who put them to
+an expense of 150,000 frs. in providing<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_196" id="page_196">[196]</a></span> his table for 7 weeks, and when
+they hinted that they thought it but fair their Royal visitor should pay
+for his own dinners, he departed, leaving his bills unpaid. He seems to
+have been secreting himself here like a Cat in a barn watching the
+motions of the mice, acting solely from interested motives, and ready to
+pounce upon whatever might be safely turned to his own advantage. When
+the French retreated out of Holland the Duke of Tarentum<a name="FNanchor_88_88" id="FNanchor_88_88"></a><a href="#Footnote_88_88" class="fnanchor">[88]</a> did the
+poor people at Li�ge the honour of making their town a point in the line
+of his march. He stopped one night, and because the inhabitants did not
+illuminate and express great joy at his illustrious presence he demanded
+an immediate contribution of 300,000 frs., 150,000 of which were paid
+the next morning. Luckily the Allies appeared towards Noon, and I hope
+his Grace will not get the remainder.</p>
+
+<p>In the character of almost all these French military leaders there are
+such blots and stains that one sickens at the thought of being of the
+same species. It would be endless to recount the acts of rapacity
+committed by all these engines of Imperial France; conscious that their
+throne might one day fall, they lost no time in amassing wealth, and
+pillage was the watchword from the Cathedral to the Cottage. Lisle is in
+the hands of the French, and by their own account the people have
+suffered every species of misery, yet they are strong for Napoleon,
+Garrison and Citizen, and I cannot find<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_197" id="page_197">[197]</a></span> that they ever vented their
+feelings in any other way than in nicknaming their General Maison<a name="FNanchor_89_89" id="FNanchor_89_89"></a><a href="#Footnote_89_89" class="fnanchor">[89]</a> (a
+cruel Tyrant who destroyed all their suburbs under pretence they might
+be in the way in case of a siege, which might have been done in a day
+had the Allies ever thought of such a thing); he is in consequence
+called General Brise Maison, and then the foolish people laugh and cry,
+"Que c'est bon cela," think they have done a great feat and submit like
+lambs. The country from Li�ge to Brussels wears the same Anglicised
+face&mdash;hedgerows and trees without any leading features. Bruxelles is a
+nice town&mdash;and really it was a gratification in passing the gate to see
+a fat John Bull keeping guard with his red coat. The Garrison consists
+of about 3,000, amongst the rest a regiment of Highlanders whose dress
+is the marvel of the people. A French Lady who came with us from Li�ge
+had seen some and expressed her utter surprise, and as if she was
+speaking to one who doubted the fact, she repeated, "C'est vrai!
+actuellement rien qu'un petit Jupon&mdash;mais comment!" and then she lifted
+her eyes and hands and reiterated, "petit jupon&mdash;et comment,"
+concluding, as if she almost doubted the evidence of her own senses, "Je
+les ai vus moi-m�me."</p>
+
+<p>At Bruxelles at least we expected to see a numerous and genteel Table
+d'h�te, and in this hope took up our quarters at a magnificent Hotel<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_198" id="page_198">[198]</a></span> in
+the Place Royale&mdash;very fine indeed, and very full of English, much too
+full, for though we saw a few in the passages, or eyed them as they
+peeped out of their doors, and sat down with about 15 or 20 at table,
+"They spoke not, they moved not, they looked not around." By dint of
+asking for salt and mustard, and giving my next neighbour as much
+trouble as I could to show I had a tongue which I should be happy to
+use, we towards the 3rd Act of the Entertainment began to talk, and
+ascended gradually from the meats to the wines (here, it is true, there
+was some prolixity), and then to other subjects pretty well, though the
+burthen of my companion's song was that "the French were all d&mdash;&mdash; d
+rascals and ought to be well licked." We tried the Play; there we found
+a few English officers and one English lady, few of any other nation,
+not 50 altogether, in a house dismal and dirty. There is a delightful
+sort of wood and promenade called the Park....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image199" id="image199"></a>
+<a href="images/199.jpg">
+<img src="images/199_th.jpg" width="650" height="220" alt="DUTCH SHIPS." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">DUTCH SHIPS.</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_199" id="page_199">[199]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V</h3>
+
+<p class="head">THE LOW COUNTRIES</p>
+
+<p class="contents">Dutch arks&mdash;Walcheren memories&mdash;Earth-covered ships&mdash;Cossacks and
+keys&mdash;Brother alleys&mdash;Bergen op Zoom&mdash;Cossack shopping&mdash;Goat
+curricles&mdash;Treckschuyt travelling&mdash;Booksellers' shops.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">A</span><b>FTER</b>
+Brussels the travellers proceeded to Holland, and saw Antwerp on
+their way. They had now gone beyond the country which Napoleon's
+victories had made famous, and the chief military interest of the
+country through which they passed, just eleven months before Waterloo,
+was derived from two very melancholy events for an Englishman to
+record&mdash;the Walcheren Expedition and the storming of Bergen op Zoom.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Letter XII</span></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Bergen op Zoom</span>, <i>July 31st</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...On leaving Bruxelles the country immediately loses its character, and
+becomes entirely Dutch, by which we exchange for the better, leaving
+dirty floors, houses, and coaches for as<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_200" id="page_200">[200]</a></span> much cleanliness as soap and
+water can produce; I only regret from my experience of last night that
+they should be so much occupied in washing as to forget that drying is
+also a luxury, but there is no such novelty in this country, and so much
+to be seen that I have no time to catch cold. Our Diligence from
+Bruxelles held 10 people inside and 3 in front, and we had all ample
+elbow room; it was large, as you may suppose, as everything else in
+Holland is from top to bottom. Hats, Coats, breeches, pipes, horns,
+cows&mdash;are all gigantic, and so are the dogs, and because the poor things
+happen to be so, they harness a parcel of them together and breed them
+up to draw fish-carts. I yesterday met a man driving four-in-hand; in
+turning a corner and meeting three of these open-mouthed Mastiffs
+panting and pulling, you might almost fancy it was Cerberus drawing the
+Chariot of Proserpine&mdash;but I am wandering from the Diligence, which
+deserves some description. It resembled a little Theatre more than a
+coach, with front boxes, pit, &amp;c., lined with common velvet. We had a
+curious collection of passengers. Opposite to me sat a prize
+thoroughbred Dutch woman as clean and tidy as she was ugly and
+phlegmatic, with a close-plaited cap, unruffled white shawl, and golden
+cross suspended from her neck. I took a sketch while she stared me in
+the face unconscious of the honor conferred. By her side sat a French
+woman crowned with the lofty towers of an Oldenburg Bonnet. By my side a
+spruce, pretty, English<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_201" id="page_201">[201]</a></span>woman, whom I somehow or other suspected had
+been serving with his Britannic Majesty's troops now occupying Belgium.
+She had on her right hand a huge Brabanter who spoke English, and had
+acquired, I have no doubt, a few additional pounds of fat by living in
+London. Edward sat behind me in a line with the Brabanter's wife and a
+Dutch peasant. These, with two or three minor characters, completed our
+cargo, and away we went on the finest road in the world towards Antwerp
+between a triple row of Abeles and poplars, and skirting the bank of a
+fine canal upon which floated a fleet of Kuyp's barks, and by which
+grazed Paul Potter's oxen&mdash;the whole road was, in truth, a gallery of
+the Flemish school. By the door of every ale-house a living group from
+Teniers and Ostade, with here and there bits from Berghem and Hobbema,
+&amp;c. Halfway between Bruxelles and Antwerp is Malines. I had began to
+fear that I had lost my powers of observation, and was, therefore, no
+longer struck with the external appearance of the towns&mdash;in fact, that
+the novelty was gone, and that my eyes were too much familiarised with
+such objects to notice them. Happily Malines undeceived me, and
+convinced me I was still fully alive to whatever had any real
+peculiarity of character to entitle it to notice. With the exception of
+the villages on the Rhine, all the towns and houses I had seen lately
+had little to recommend them, and were like half the people in the
+world, possessed of no character of their own, their doors<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_202" id="page_202">[202]</a></span> and windows
+like all other doors and windows, but Malines had doors and windows of
+its own, and seemed to take a pride in exhibiting its own little queer
+originalities; in every house was a different idea. The people were of a
+piece with their dwellings; I could almost fancy I was permitted to
+inspect the toys of some Brobdignag baby who washed, cleaned, and combed
+the beings before me every morning and locked them up in their separate
+boxes every evening. When the nice green doors of the nice painted
+houses opened, I bethought me of the Dutch ark you bought for Owen, and
+was prepared to make my best bow to Noah and his wife, who I expected to
+step forth with Ham and Japhet, and all the birds and beasts behind
+them.</p>
+
+<p>We approached Antwerp as the sun was setting behind its beautiful
+Cathedral and shining upon the pennants of the fleet which Bonaparte has
+kindly built for the accommodation of the allied powers. The Antwerpers
+had a well-arranged promenade and tea garden, &amp;c., about a mile from the
+house, well wooded. These, with all the houses in the suburbs, the
+French entirely destroyed, leaving not a wreck behind. I must acquit
+them of wanton cruelty here, however, as in sieges these devastations
+are necessary. We passed thro' a complete course of fortifications, and
+then entered what, from all I can perceive, is the best town I have seen
+on the continent.</p>
+
+<p>It is a mass of fine streets, fine houses, and fine churches; the Tower
+of the Cathedral is quite a<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_203" id="page_203">[203]</a></span> Bijou 620 steps in height! but the ascent
+was well rewarded; from thence a very respectable tour of about 30 miles
+in every direction may be accomplished. Walcheren and Lillo (the
+celebrated fort which prevented our ascending the Scheld) were visible
+without any difficulty, with Cadsand and all the well-known names of
+that silly expedition,<a name="FNanchor_90_90" id="FNanchor_90_90"></a><a href="#Footnote_90_90" class="fnanchor">[90]</a> rendered apparently more silly by seeing how
+impossible it would have been to have taken Antwerp unless by a regular
+siege, which might have been of endless duration; we might have
+bombarded the basons in which the men-of-war were deposited, and with
+about as much success as Sir Thos. Graham,<a name="FNanchor_91_91" id="FNanchor_91_91"></a><a href="#Footnote_91_91" class="fnanchor">[91]</a> who, after expending a
+mint of money in bombs and powders, in the course of two days contrived
+to send about half a dozen shells on board the line of battleships. I
+was on board the <i>Albania</i>, which had suffered the most. The extent of
+her damage was two shells which passed thro' the decks, exploding
+without much mischief, and a round-shot which shivered a quarter gallery
+and then fell on the ice&mdash;indeed, bombarding vessels, which are objects
+so comparatively small, is something like attempting to shoot wild ducks
+on Radnor Mere by firing over their heads with ball in hopes that in its
+descent it may come in contact with the bird's head.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_204" id="page_204">[204]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>About a dozen Gun Brigs were sunk, all of which we saw with their masts
+above the water; a few houses near the Bason were shattered, and about
+20 Townsmen killed. The country round Antwerp is quite flat, and
+appears, with the exception of 2 or 3 miles round the town, a perfect
+wood; fancy such a wood with the Scheldt winding through it, several
+roads radiating in lines straight as arrows, with here and there a
+steeple breaking the horizontal line, and you may suppose yourself at
+the top of the Cathedral. The Town is large, with the river washing the
+whole of one side; on the south are the dockyards, with rope walks and
+everything in fine style; the destruction of these might have been
+practicable, as they are rather beyond the line of immediate
+fortifications, but probably they have works for their express
+protection, and the advantage gained must have been in proportion to the
+stores and vessels building. I counted 16 or 17 ships of the line on the
+Stocks, 2 or 3 of 120 Guns. In the Scheldt floated 13 in a state of
+apparent equipment; in the basons 9&mdash;all of the line&mdash;thus completing a
+fleet of 39 fine Ships, besides a few frigates and Gun Brigs
+innumerable&mdash;of these only two were Dutch.</p>
+
+<p>It was curious to see such a fleet, and some of them were actually worn
+out, the utmost extent of whose naval career had been an expedition to
+Flushing. On descending the Spire, we examined the Carillons, which are
+a Gamut of chiming bells<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_205" id="page_205">[205]</a></span> of all sizes&mdash;the total number for them and
+the Church is 82; by a clock work they play every 7 minutes, so that the
+neighbourhood of the Cathedral is a scene of perpetual harmony; they can
+also be played by hand. Most of the churches in this country have them.
+Our Guards in marching into Alkmaar were surprised and gratified in
+hearing the church bells strike up "God Save the King." There are
+several good churches in the town, and once all were decorated with the
+works of Rubens, which Napoleon carried off. I should, however, be
+perfectly satisfied with a selection from the remainder. I saw a Vandyck
+on the subject of our Saviour recommending the Virgin Mary to St. John,
+which was incomparable; it quite haunts me at this moment, and, however
+horrible the effect of the bleeding figure on the Cross, I do not wish
+to lose the impression. The Dutch have carried the art of carving in
+wood to a most extraordinary pitch of perfection. I am surprised it has
+not been more spoken of; some of their pulpits are really quite
+marvellous. Religion increases and, I think, improves. There is less
+mummery here than at Aix and some other places I have lately seen, with
+the exception of a few little Saviours in powdered wigs and gilt satin
+and muslin frocks, and a very singular figure as large as life, supposed
+to represent the deposition in the holy sepulchre, which was covered by
+a shroud of worsted gauze, studded over with enormous artificial flowers
+and tinsel like a Lady's court dress.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_206" id="page_206">[206]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Wherever we went, at whatever hour, Mass was performing to good
+congregations. The women here all dress in long black shawls, or,
+rather, hooded wrappers, which, as they knelt before their confessional
+boxes, were extremely appropriate and solemn. The English have a church
+here for the garrison; it is simplicity itself. They have even removed
+several fine pictures, the rooms having been a sort of museum&mdash;the
+Vandyck I alluded to among the rest....</p>
+
+<p>In our morning's tour we, of course, visited the celebrated basons for
+the men-of-war. "Still harping upon these ships," I can fancy you
+exclaiming; "when will he have done with them?" You must bear it
+patiently. It was on account of these said basons, in a great measure,
+that I came to Antwerp, so you must endure their birth, parentage, and
+education.</p>
+
+<p>There are two Basons, one calculated for 16, the other for 30 sail of
+the line; they are simple excavations. Nature never thought of such a
+thing, and gave no helping hand. It was Napoleon's work from first to
+last; the labour and expense must have been enormous. They open by dock
+gates immediately into the Scheldt, from whence each ship can proceed
+armed and fitted cap � pie (if she dares) to fight the English. They
+were begun and finished in two years, but improvements were suggested,
+and there is no knowing what more the Emperor intended to do.
+Precautions had been taken during the bombardment to preserve the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_207" id="page_207">[207]</a></span>
+Ships. For instance, all the decks were propped up by a number of spars,
+by which means if a bomb fell it did no other mischief than forcing its
+way through and carrying all before its immediate course, whereas
+without the props it might have shaken the timbers and weakened the
+access considerably. In every ship also were 2 cartloads of earth, to
+throw over any inflammable substance which might have fallen on board.
+From this mole hill of a truth was engendered a mountainous falsehood
+for home consumption. I read in the English Papers of the time that the
+French had scuttled their ships to the level of the water, and then
+covered them over with earth, which was carefully sodded!! Sir Thos.
+Graham's batteries were very near the basons, half-way between the
+village of Muxham, about 2 miles from the town and the nearest French
+battery. From one of the latter we had a perfect conception of the whole
+business. Without saying a word about my extreme partiality and fears
+for the safety of No. 1, and probable inconvenience which might ensue
+from loss of said No. 1 to Nos. 2, 3 and 4, I wonder much whether my
+curiosity would have allowed me to sleep quite in the back ground. The
+sight must from this point have been superb, as it was the intention to
+throw the bombs over this battery so as to make them fall in the bason
+amongst the ducks. The top of the Cathedral would have been perfection,
+but the Governor most vexatiously kept the keys....<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_208" id="page_208">[208]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We found abundance of British troops here, remnants of all the regiments
+who had survived the storming of Bergen op Zoom, about 3 or 4,000....
+They have no reason to complain of their quarters, though it is possible
+many of them may be of the same opinion with a soldier of the Guards,
+who, in reply to my question of "How do you like Antwerp?" said with
+great earnestness, "I like St. James's Park a great deal better." I
+observed several ladies with their "petits chapeaux," and I must do them
+the justice to say they are much handsomer than the French, German, or
+Dutch.... English Curricles, coaches, and Chariots are to be seen, and
+some few English horses, which are certainly better calculated for speed
+and pleasant driving than the heavy breed of this country. Flanders
+Mares&mdash;as Henry VIII. tells us by comparing his queen to one&mdash;have never
+been remarkable for elegance and activity, and I was much entertained in
+seeing an Englishman break in a couple of these for a Tandem.</p>
+
+<p>...At our Table d'h�te, where we met nothing but English merchants, I
+heard the report of the day that Belgium was to be a sort of independent
+state, under the Prince of Orange's government, according to its old
+laws and customs, and that he was to hold a court at Bruxelles.... The
+Prince of Orange is now in fact gone to make his public entrance into
+Bruxelles....</p>
+
+<p>There is a custom that the key of the town should be presented to the
+possessor or Governor<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_209" id="page_209">[209]</a></span> of the Town on a magnificent silver-gilt plate.
+When the Cossack chief came, as usual, the key was offered, which the
+good, simple man quietly took, put into his pocket, and forgot to
+return. When I saw the dish, the man told me this anecdote, and lamented
+wofully the loss of his key, which may possibly in future turn the lock
+of some dirty cupboard or other on the banks of the Don. It seems these
+Cossacks were immensely rich. Latterly I have been assured they could
+not fight had they been inclined, from the excessive height of their
+saddles and weight of their clothes; on the one they could scarcely sit,
+and with the others they could scarcely walk. They had always 3 or 4
+Coats or coverings, and in the folds of these were unkennelled 1,330
+Napoleons on one of them who happened to die at Bruxelles.</p>
+
+<p>We quitted Antwerp after dinner yesterday for Bergen op Zoom by a new
+sort of conveyance; by way of variety we "voitured" it, viz., hired a
+carriage, driver, and horses for Breda on our way to Amsterdam. It was a
+nice sort of Gig Phaeton, with comfortable seats for 4, the Driver on
+the front bench. I fear I must retract what I said in the beginning of
+this letter, as to the decided change in houses and people here. It was
+most conspicuous about Malines, but on this road there was nothing
+remarkable one way or the other.</p>
+
+<p>Our road was, however, Dutch throughout. Upon<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_210" id="page_210">[210]</a></span> a sort of raised dyke,
+between a monotonous avenue of stunted willows, did we jog gently on,
+with nothing to relieve the eye but here and there a windmill or a farm.
+On our left we saw, as far as eye could reach, the Swamp (or I scarcely
+know what to call it), which fills up the spaces between the Main and
+South Beveland, and it almost gave me the Walcheren fever to look at it.
+The Evening Gun of Flushing saluted the Sun as he sank to rest behind
+these muddy isles, and we begun to fear, as night drew on, that we
+should have to take up our night's lodging in the Gig, for though he
+knew that the gates of the Fortress were closed at 9, our sturdy
+Dutchman moved not a peg the faster. However, we escaped the evil, and
+10 minutes before 9 we passed the drawbridge of the ditch leading to the
+Antwerp gate, which had been the grave of the 1st Column of Guards, led
+by General Cooke, on the 8th March....</p>
+
+<div class="block">
+<p class="c smcap">Note.</p>
+
+<p><i>Storming of Bergen op Zoom, March 8, 1814.</i>&mdash;Sir Thomas Graham had
+landed 6,000 men on October 7, 1813, in S. Beveland, in order to
+combine with the Prussians to drive the French from Holland.</p>
+
+<p>On March 8, 1814, he led 4,000 British troops against Bergen op
+Zoom. They were formed into four columns, of which two were to
+attack the fortifications at different points; the third to make a
+false attack; the fourth to attack the entrance of the harbour,
+which is fordable at low water.</p>
+
+<p>The first, led by Major-General Cooke, incurred some delay in
+passing the ditch on the ice, but at length established itself on
+the rampart.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_211" id="page_211">[211]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The right column, under Major-General Skerret and Brigadier-General
+Gore, had forced their way into the body of the place, but the fall
+of General Gore and the dangerous wounds of Skerret caused the
+column to fall into disorder and suffer great loss in killed,
+wounded, and prisoners. The centre column was driven back by the
+heavy fire of the place, but re-formed and marched round to join
+General Cooke. At daybreak the enemy turned the guns of the place
+on the unprotected rampart and much loss and confusion ensued.
+General Cooke, despairing of success, directed the retreat of the
+Guards, and, finding it impossible to withdraw his weak battalions,
+he saved the lives of his remaining men by surrender.</p>
+
+<p>The Governor of Bergen op Zoom agreed to a suspension of
+hostilities for an exchange of prisoners. The killed were computed
+at 300, prisoners, 1,800.&mdash;<span class="smcap">Ed.</span></p></div>
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> XIII.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Hague</span>, <i>August 4, 1814.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Sterne pities the man who could go from Dan to Beersheba and say that
+all was barren, and I must pity the man who travels from Bergen op Zoom
+to Amsterdam and says that Holland, with all its flatness, is not worth
+visiting.</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Oh Willow, Willow, Willow, here</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">Each stands bowing to another,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">And every Alley finds its brother."</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p>Nature never abhorred a vacuum more than she herself is abhorred by
+these Dutchmen; here rivers run above their levels and cattle feed where
+fishes were by nature intended to swim. Hogarth's line of beauty is
+unknown in Holland. No line can be either beautiful or palatable except
+that which<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_212" id="page_212">[212]</a></span> (defined mathematically) is the shortest that can be drawn
+between two given points. But I have yet a great deal to say before I
+come to these roads. I left you at Bergen op Zoom, just arrived. On
+Sunday morning, after a little enquiry, we were glad to find there was a
+Protestant French Church in the town, and thither we went. I cannot say
+much for the sermon; it was on <span class="smcap">i</span> Cor. vii. 20, in which a great deal of
+French display of vehemence and action made up in some degree for a
+feeble prolixity of words; in one part, however, he made an appeal,
+which has at least had the effect of eloquence and certainly came home
+to the heart. He described the miseries the country had so long endured
+and the happy change which had now taken place. But while he blest the
+change he lamented the tears which must be shed from the fatal effects
+of the war which produced it; and then turning to us, whom he perceived
+to be Englishmen, he proceeded: "It is for us to lament the sad disaster
+which this town was doomed to witness in the loss of our friends (our
+Compatriots, I may say), who shed their blood for the restoration of our
+liberties." After church I went into the vestry to tell him who and what
+I was. As an Englishman he shook me by the hand, and when he understood
+I was a Protestant minister he shook it again. Had he asked me to dine I
+should have accepted his invitation, but unluckily he lost my company by
+paying what he conceived to be a greater compliment. Like an Indian
+warrior, he offered the calumet of peace and begged I would go<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_213" id="page_213">[213]</a></span> home and
+<i>smoke</i> with him. Now, I would have gone through a good deal to have had
+some conversation with him, but really on one of the hottest days of
+July, when I was anxious, moreover, to inspect the fortification,
+smoking would not do, and taking our leave he sent his schoolmaster, an
+intelligent man who had a brother a Captain in one of our assaulting
+regiments, to be our guide and tell the melancholy tale.... And now let
+me see if I can make that clear to you which has never been made clear
+to anybody yet. "At 10 o'clock," said our guide, "I was at supper with a
+little party, some French officers being present; about half after 10
+some musket shots were heard; this was no uncommon sound and we took no
+notice; however, it rather increased, and the French sent a sergeant to
+know the cause, and remained chatting quietly. In about ten minutes in
+burst the sergeant, 'Vite, vite, � vos portes! Les Anglais sont dans la
+ville.'" I need not add the party broke up in a hurry; our Guide sallied
+forth with the rest, and went on the Ramparts for <i>curiosity</i>, but
+whilst he was gratifying this passion, on a pitch dark night, down drops
+a man who stood near him, and whiz flew some bullets, upon which he took
+to his heels, got home, and saw no more; indeed, had he been inclined it
+would have been impossible, for Patrols paraded the streets and shot
+every one who was not a French soldier. Thus far our schoolmaster was an
+eye-witness; for the remainder you must trust to my account from as
+minute an enquiry as I could make upon the spot with Sir T. Graham's<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_214" id="page_214">[214]</a></span>
+dispatches in my hand, which threw very little light upon the subject.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;">
+<img src="images/214.jpg" width="443" height="353"
+alt="BERGEN OP ZOOM." />
+<table summary="BERGEN"
+cellpadding="2"
+cellspacing="0"
+style="font-size:75%;font-weight:800;text-align:left;">
+<tr><td>A.</td><td>The Steenbergen Gate. &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;</td><td>E.</td><td>Picket of veteran French Soldiers.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>B.</td><td>Breda Gate.</td><td>F.</td><td>River or creek running into the town.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>C.</td><td>Antwerp Gate.</td><td>G.</td><td>Side from whence the English approach.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>D.</td><td>Water Gate.</td><td>H.</td><td>Bastion near Breda Gate.</td></tr>
+</table>
+</div>
+
+<p>Under the guidance of some inhabitants who had fled to the English, soon
+after 10 o&#39;clock, March 8th, the ground covered with snow and ice, our
+troops marched in silence to their respective posts. The Guards, led by
+General Cooke, were to go round towards B and C, at A a false attack was
+to be made; another column was to force open the gates[215"
+at B, and the
+4th column, led by Generals Skerret and Gore, proceeded by the dotted
+line, crossed the river up to their middle, and skirting round between
+the works were the first to enter the town behind some houses which
+fronted the Quay. Hitherto all went on well, and the object of all the
+Columns was to concentrate at G, but no sooner had the 4th Column gained
+its point (from what cause nobody knows, for I cannot conceive that the
+immediate loss of its two Generals was the sole cause) than all
+subordination seems to have been at an end, and the men, instead of
+going on, occupied themselves with revelling and drinking and getting
+warm in the houses by the Quay, and though many prisoners were taken,
+they were imprudently left unguarded with arms in their hands, which
+they very soon turned against their captors with fatal success. The
+doors and windows in this part of the town bore evidence of the business
+which for a short time was carried on. The Guards gained their point,
+and so did the Column at B in part, for the French were killed in great
+numbers on Bastion H, in fact, eleven Bastions were taken, and all
+before midnight; but from this period till 7 in the morning, when the
+affair closed, I can give you no clear account. Nobody seemed to know
+what was doing, all appears to have been confusion&mdash;not a gun was
+spiked, none were turned towards the Town. In the meantime the French
+were no inactive observers of what was passing; they came forward most
+manfully, fighting<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_216" id="page_216">[216]</a></span> hand to hand, and though I could not find out that
+there was the slightest reason for suspecting they were at all prepared
+beyond what was usual, or aware of the attack, they contrived to be
+instantly at the right point, and though with barely 3,000 men to defend
+works, the inner circle of which is at least 2 miles in circumference,
+and with 3,900 men attacking, they remained master of the field, killing
+near 400 and taking 1,500 prisoners. The French General was an elderly
+man who left all to his Aide de Camp. He was, in fact, the head, and has
+been rewarded most deservedly in the ribbon of the Legion of Honor. The
+French, it is supposed, lost 5 or 600 men. The number was certainly
+great, and they were aware of it, for they buried their dead directly,
+to prevent the possibility of counting. The Bergen op Zoom people say it
+is utterly impossible to account for the failure of the assault but on
+the supposition that the English were led to conclude that the French
+would make no resistance or that they were badly officered. I should be
+sorry to believe the latter, and yet I heard from good authority that
+many of these, instead of encouraging their men at the Water post gate,
+were actually busied in collecting braziers and fires to warm themselves
+and rest upon their arms.</p>
+
+<p>It may be supposed that wading on such a night upwards of 50 yards in
+mud and water must have been dreadfully cold, but I can scarcely
+conceive that upon a service so important cold could have any influence;
+however, never having led an assault<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_217" id="page_217">[217]</a></span> under such circumstances I can be
+no judge. Were I to give my own opinion, it would be this: That the
+affair was entrusted to certain General officers who were unfortunately
+killed in the beginning of the action; that no precautions appear to
+have been provided against such accidents, and no remedy applied to the
+confusion thereby created&mdash;the Columns knew not what to do, each on
+gaining its point possibly waiting for orders to proceed; that the
+darkness increased the confusion&mdash;in short, that "the right hand knew
+not what the left hand did," and that the French acted with incomparable
+bravery and skill. It should be added that most of their troops were
+conscripts. It is an ugly story altogether, and I shall say no more. A
+sketch of the works in and near the Antwerp gate will give you some idea
+of the spot which has proved the grave of so many fine officers and men.
+At 4 o'clock we quitted the town for Breda&mdash;the greatest part of the
+road inexorably flat and uninteresting; but what is lost in the country
+is gained in the Towns, villages, and people&mdash;they are <i>sui generis</i>.
+For 3 hours did we toil through a deep sand between parallel lines of
+willows of the same size, shape, and dimensions; then for 3 hours more
+did we proceed at a foot pace over a common; this brought us to Breda
+just in time for the gates, through which we trotted to the usual rattle
+of drawbridges, chains, &amp;c. By the bright light of the moon at night and
+earliest dawn of the following morning we rambled through the streets.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_218" id="page_218">[218]</a></span>
+Breda was one of the last towns which got rid of its French garrison
+without a siege; it departed one night without beat of drum, and the
+Cossacks came in to breakfast, leaving the trembling inhabitants to
+doubt whether in escaping Scylla they were not approaching Charybdis.
+However, they behaved tolerably well. "Did they pillage?" said I to a
+Breda lady who travelled with us in the Diligence. "Oh non," she
+replied; "seulement quelque fois ils prenaient des choses sans payer."
+Thus a Cossack comes into a Shop, makes signs he wants some Cloth. The
+Dutchman, delighted with the idea of accommodating a new purchaser,
+takes down his best pieces. The Cossack looks them over, fixes on one,
+takes it up, pops it under his arm, and walks off, leaving the
+astonished vendor gaping behind his counter to meditate on the Profits
+of this new verbal ceremony.</p>
+
+<p>After the Cossacks came the Prussians, who remained a long time and were
+little better than the French&mdash;they lodged in free quarters, domineered
+without mercy, and paid for nothing. All the Prussian officers I have
+seen appeared gentleman-like men, but they are nowhere popular. The
+English succeeded the Prussians, they were all "charmants"; then came
+the Dutch who were "comme �a," but then "n'importe" they were their own
+countrymen. I rather begin to like the Dutch women. The next day in the
+Diligence we had my present informant, a lively, talkative damsel of
+Breda, a very pretty girl of the same town who talked nothing but
+Dutch, and an old Lady who would have been perfect if everything had
+been as charming as her Dress.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image219" id="image219"></a>
+<a href="images/219.jpg">
+<img src="images/219_th.jpg" width="650" height="324" alt="DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT.
+<br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 218.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_219" id="page_219">[219]</a></span>The Ladies are elegant and apparently well-behaved, with all the
+liveliness of the French. We met with no adventures till we came to a
+river; here a regiment of Dutch cavalry impeded our progress and luckily
+gave us time to get our breakfast; the next river brought us in contact
+with a detachment of Artillery waggons. Our Diligence consisted of a
+Machine with 6 seats inside, a cabriolet in which sat Edward and myself,
+on a little seat before us the driver with his legs dangling for want of
+a footboard. His patience had been rather put to the test by the
+cavalry, but the Artillery quite upset him, and on getting entangled
+amongst their train, uttering two of the French words he had learnt from
+his servitude under the Emperor, viz., "sacr� bleu," he popped his pipe
+into his pocket, threw the reins into my hands, and jumped down to
+request the Officer's permission to pass. Under existing circumstances I
+confess I did not much like the responsibility of the charge committed
+to me, but fortunately our conductor soon returned with permission to
+pass. We got out while he drove his 4 in hand quietly into the boat,
+every cranny of which was filled up by soldiers and artillery horses,
+which, as if to shew off the pomp of war, capered and reared before our
+sedate steeds, who only wanted pipes in their mouths to rival the
+impenetrable gravity of their<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_220" id="page_220">[220]</a></span> driver. It is necessary to cross the Waal
+before you get to Gorum. When we got to the bank not a boat was to be
+had. With some difficulty at last our Coachman procured a miserable punt
+with a boy. What with our Trunks and passengers we were quite enough for
+it; indeed, the female part of our crew hesitated for some time; and
+well they might, for no sooner had we shoved from the shore than a leak
+was discovered which threatened serious consequences. It gained rapidly;
+the old Lady above mentioned was in despair, and sat with her thumb
+crammed over the spouting orifice the whole time, while a young man
+baled with his shoes as fast as possible. This was not all. The Stream
+carried us down, and our driver&mdash;no great sailor&mdash;caught crabs at every
+other pull; then we got upon a bank. Really I begun to think it would be
+quite as well to be safe now, but as for <i>fear</i>, it was out of the
+question, the lamentations of the women, and terrors of the old lady in
+particular, kept us quite in Spirits. The last event was the total
+overthrow of the driver by a sudden bump against the bank. Poor fellow!
+he was not only well drenched, but his head cut by falling against the
+seat of the boat in his overturn. Though every nerve vibrated with
+compassion, it was quite impossible to avoid laughing. Luckily a glass
+of vinegar well rubbed upon the wound soon set him to rights and good
+humor. Gorum and Naard were the last two towns which the French
+retained, and poor Gorum suffered sadly.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_221" id="page_221">[221]</a></span> The Suburbs, Tea gardens,
+avenues, walks, &amp;c., were all destroyed by the French to prevent the
+Prussians coming in, and their houses and heads knocked about with shot
+and shells to drive the French out. Luckily the French listened to the
+entreaties of the people and capitulated.</p>
+
+<p>I wish they would bombard Knutsford or Macclesfield or some of our Towns
+for an hour or two, just to shew them what war is. Bang, whiz, down
+comes a shell and away goes a house. War and slavery have quite
+reconciled the Dutch to the abdication of Napoleon. In answer to the
+question, "�tes vous content de ces changements?" you meet with no
+doubtful shrug of the shoulders, no ambiguous "mais que, oui"; an
+instantaneous extra whiff of satisfaction is puffed forth, accompanied
+with the synonimous terms, "Napoleon et Diable." On leaving Gorum we
+acquired an accession of passengers&mdash;a protestant clergyman and a fat
+man, who looked much like a conjurer or alchymist. A protestant
+clergyman in Holland may be known by his dress&mdash;a cocked hat of a
+peculiar model covers a lank head of unpowdered hair. Nothing white
+appears throughout but the pipe in his mouth and cravat round his neck,
+a long black coat down to his ancles, with black worsted stockings and
+gold-headed cane. I must say they do not look over and above agreeable,
+and as they hate all innovations few have learnt French, so that I have
+been foiled in most of my attempts at conversation.</p>
+
+<p>From Gorum to Utrecht the country improves;<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_222" id="page_222">[222]</a></span> we had hitherto travelled
+sometimes on Dyke tops, sometimes in Dyke bottoms which only required
+the efforts of a few able-bodied rats to let the water in upon us. It is
+quite surprising to see on what a precarious tenure Holland is held.
+Take but a Dyke away, overturn one dam, and see what discord
+follows&mdash;and this does sometimes happen. In 1809 the Ice broke through
+near Gorum and carried away countless houses, men, cattle, &amp;c. I have
+said the country improved, <i>i.e.</i>, we got into a land of villas and
+Trees, some of them beautifully laid out, and all, stable included,
+bright and clean as possible. Each, too, has its Summer house perched by
+the Canal side and (the Evening being fine) well filled with parties of
+ladies and gentlemen. The road for many miles was ornamented with wooden
+triumphal arches and hung with festoons of flowers, &amp;c., as a compliment
+to the Emperor Alexander, who passed about a month ago....</p>
+
+<p>...We arrived at Amsterdam on Monday night; here, again, all was new.
+Hitherto we had rode in Carriages of various descriptions <i>with</i> wheels,
+but in Amsterdam you have them without wheels, drawn by a fine horse and
+driven by a man who walks by the side with his long reins....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image223" id="image223"></a>
+<a href="images/223.jpg">
+<img src="images/223_th.jpg" width="650" height="298" alt="GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>But what delighted me more than anything else was the prospect of
+suiting Owen and Mary exactly. What think you of a Goat Curricle? Goats
+are regularly trained for draught, and are the prettiest things in the
+world, trotting in neat<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_223" id="page_223">[223]</a></span> harness with two or three children. I shall,
+if I have time at Rotterdam, see if I can get a pair. Buonaparte was so
+delighted with them that he ordered 4 for the King of Rome. Amsterdam is
+a very large, gloomy town, intersected in all directions by water,
+monotonous in the extreme. Had I not been convinced by the evidence of
+my senses in looking down from a house top on several objects I had
+visited in different parts of the town, I should have suspected that our
+Laquais de place had amused himself by walking up and down the same
+street where Canals with trees on each side do not keep the houses
+asunder; high buildings and narrow streets of dark, small brown brick
+constitute the character of the town, and, having seen one, you have
+seen the whole. In the course of my walk I heard that two or three
+Englishmen were settled in the town. I called on one, the Revd. Mr.
+Lowe, with little of the Englishman left but the language. He had been
+there 30 years and held a Presbyterian Church. I asked him if Napoleon
+troubled the English settlers during the war. He said that, provided
+they conformed quickly to the laws and regulations, they experienced no
+persecution. Upon my asking if it was at all necessary to conceal his
+extraction, he exclaimed, "What, conceal my extraction, deny my country?
+Not for all the Emperors in the world. No, I have too much conscience
+and independence. To be sure, I was obliged by law to pray for the
+health and prosperity of Buonaparte every Sunday. But what signified<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_224" id="page_224">[224]</a></span>
+that? God Almighty understood very well what I meant, and that I
+heartily wished his death all the time." By long residence in Holland,
+he had adopted a good portion of Dutch impenetrability and slowness. He
+assured us nothing short of a week could give us the least chance of
+seeing the curiosities of Amsterdam, and when I told him that we were
+(according to our common custom of early rising) to be in North Holland
+by 6 o'clock in the morning, and had seen all by 11 o'clock which
+occupies a Dutchman's whole day, and gave him a few instances of our
+mode of operation, he threw himself back, raised his cocked hat to
+examine us more thoroughly, put his arms akimbo and exclaimed, "How do
+you support human nature. It must expire under such fatigue," and I
+found it quite impossible to convince him that my health for the last
+month had been infinitely better than usual. But, after all, I fear you
+will find me growing old. I had a compliment paid to my grey hairs, in
+coming from Utrecht, which must be mentioned. The fat Alchymist, above
+mentioned, squeezed himself into Edward's place in the Diligence; on
+remonstrating to a young Dutch gentleman who spoke French, he replied,
+"Que c'�tait vraiment impoli mais que c'�tait un viellard � qui on
+devait c�der quelque chose, et je vous assure, Monsieur, comme vous �tes
+aussi un peu ag� si vous aviez pris ma place je vous l'aurais c�d�." In
+Amsterdam there is little to be seen but the Palais, in which there is a
+splendid collection of Flemish<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_225" id="page_225">[225]</a></span> pictures&mdash;two or three of the finest of
+Rembrandt&mdash;and without exception the most splendid room I have seen in
+Europe. It is the great Hall of audience; King Louis<a name="FNanchor_92_92" id="FNanchor_92_92"></a><a href="#Footnote_92_92" class="fnanchor">[92]</a> has fitted up
+everything in grand style. We went over what the Dutchmen cry up as an
+object which it would be unpardonable not to see&mdash;the Felix meritus, a
+sort of Lecture room with some wretched museums attached. I found
+nothing to interest me but a capital figure of a Dutchman, who came also
+to see the wonders. Nothing could exceed his attitudes as he looked with
+an eye of incredulity whilst they explained a planetarium, examined with
+an air of conscious safety a snake corked up in a bottle, and ogled with
+terror a skeleton which grinned at him out of his case. I walked round
+and tried his perspective in all directions, and rather blushed when,
+with treacherous condescension, I requested him to use my Glass that I
+might see how he looked peeping thro' a Telescope. This is such a Museum
+as will furnish me with samples of oddities for the rest of my life.</p>
+
+
+<p class="letnumber"><span class="smcap">Letter</span> XIV.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>August</i> 6, 1814.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Luckily we have a commodious cabin in the <i>Trechschuyt</i>, and no smoke or
+other intruders, so where I finished my last I will begin another.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image226" id="image226"></a>
+<a href="images/226.jpg">
+<img src="images/226_th.jpg" width="650" height="352" alt="TABLE D&#39;HOTE, AMSTERDAM.
+To face page 226." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">TABLE D&#39;HOTE, AMSTERDAM.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 226.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As to the country, a peep once an hour will be sufficient; I will look
+out of the window and give<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_226" id="page_226">[226]</a></span> you the result&mdash;five plover, a few fat cows,
+a good many rushes, and a canal bridge. At Amsterdam we dined at a
+regular Dutch table d'h�te; about 20 people, all of them eaters, few
+talkers; the quantity of vegetables consumed was quite surprising. With
+the last dish a boy came round with pipes and hot coals, which were soon
+followed by a tremendous explosion of Tobacco from a double line of
+smokers, and as if the simple operation of puffing in and puffing out
+was too much for these drowsy operators, many of them leaned back in
+their chairs, put their hands in their breeches pockets, shut their
+eyes, and carried on the war with one end of the pipe in their mouths
+and the other leaning on their plates. On Wednesday, Aug. 3rd, we
+crossed the Gulf by sun rise on a little tour into North Holland, to see
+the Village of Brock and Saardam, where the house in which the Czar
+Peter worked still exists. We landed at Buiksloot, from whence carriages
+are hired to different parts of the country. From Breda to Amsterdam
+they varied the Diligences according to the number of travellers;
+sometimes we had a coach and four, and then a machine and three, and as
+our number diminished we were forwarded the last stage or two in a
+vehicle perfectly nondescript with two horses; it was a sort of cart
+painted white, hung upon springs, with an awning, but it was reserved
+for this morning to see us in a carriage far beyond anything before seen
+or heard of. I am inclined to think it must have been the identical<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_227" id="page_227">[227]</a></span>
+equipage (for it was a little the worse for wear) which the fairy
+produced from the gourd for the service of Cinderella&mdash;a sort of Phaeton
+lined with red flowered velvet, the whole moulding beautifully carved
+and gilt, the panels well painted with flowers, birds, urns, &amp;c., the
+wheels red and gold. It contained two seats for four persons, and a
+coach box painted, carved, and gilt like the body of the carriage; the
+whole was in a Lilliput style drawn by two gigantic black horses, whose
+tails reached above the level of our heads. It was exactly suited to the
+place where we were going, the village of Brock, which, like our
+vehicle, was unlike anything I had seen before. I have, in former
+letters, talked of Dutch cleanliness and neatness, but what is all I
+have said compared with Brock? Even the people have their jokes upon its
+superiority in this particular, and assert that the inhabitants actually
+wash and scrub their wood before they put it on the fire. Lady Penrhyn's
+cottages must yield the palm, they are only internally washed and
+painted, but in Brock, Tops and bottoms, Outside and in, bricks and all,
+are constantly under the discipline of the paint brush, and as if Nature
+was not sufficiently clean in her operations, the stems of several of
+their trees were white washed too! In fact, nothing seemed to
+escape&mdash;the Milk pails were either burnished brass or painted buckets,
+and the little straw baskets the women carried in their hands came in
+for their share of blue, red, or green. They have such a dread of dirt,
+that<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_228" id="page_228">[228]</a></span> entrance is limited to the back door only, the opening of the
+front door being reserved for grand occasions, such as weddings,
+funerals, &amp;c. It is not accessible by carriages and horses, on account
+of several canals which intersect it; these sometimes widen, and in one
+part the houses stand round a pretty little lake. I can give you no
+better idea of the scene than a Chinese paper, whose neat summer houses
+and painted boats are all mixed together. Most houses have each a
+separate garden, kept in style equally clean. I really believe my own
+dusty shoes were the most impure things in the whole village.</p>
+
+<p>We returned to Buiksloot and then proceeded to Saardam, on the top of a
+Dyke, which keeps the sea from inundating the vast levels of North
+Holland. Saardam might be held up as the pattern of neatness had I not
+visited Brock first; as it is, I can only say that, though four times as
+large, it seems to be its rival in cleanliness and paint. The number of
+windmills is quite astonishing; it would require an army of Don
+Quixotes. I counted myself upwards of 130 in and close to the town; they
+say there are 1,200. Windmills seem great favourites with the Dutch. In
+the Diligence near Utrecht my neighbour roused me by a sudden
+exclamation, "Oh la vue superbe!" I looked, and beheld 14 of them in a
+Dyke! and yesterday, on asking the Laquais de place if we should see
+anything curious at Saardam besides the Czar's house, he replied, "Oh
+que, oui&mdash;beaucoup de Moulins!" Peter the Great's house is a small
+wooden cottage close to the town, remarkable for nothing but having been
+his.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image228" id="image228"></a>
+<a href="images/228.jpg">
+<img src="images/228_th.jpg" width="650" height="437" alt="SAARDAM.
+To face page 228." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">SAARDAM.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 228.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_229" id="page_229">[229]</a></span>Alexander had put up two little marble Tablets over the fireplace,
+commemorating his visit to the Imperial residence, on which something
+good and pointed might have been inscribed; as they are, it is merely
+stated that Alexander placed them on, and that Mrs. Von Tets Von Groudam
+stood by, delighted to see him so employed. We returned to Amsterdam by
+3 o'clock and left it at 4 for Haarlem. In Protestant countries
+Cathedrals are not always open; we found that at Haarlem open and a
+numerous congregation listening to a very respectable, venerable-looking
+preacher, whose voice and manner, style and action approached
+perfection. His eloquence, however, seemed to be in vain, for I observed
+many sleepers; and what had an odd effect, though customary in their
+country, the men with their hats on; they take them off, I believe,
+during prayers, but put them down during the sermon; we ascended the
+tower and enjoyed as extensive a view as heart could wish. The sea of
+Haarlem is an immense lake separated from the Gulf by a flood gate and
+narrow dam. The French had a block house and batteries here. In truth,
+Holland does not require above 20 guns to keep out all the enemies in
+the world. Different, indeed, are the Dutch from the French in the
+facility and liberality of access to their curiosities. It required some
+eloquence and more money to induce the key-keeper to let us go up;<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_230" id="page_230">[230]</a></span> and
+on asking whether the Organ was to play, he assured us it was not, but
+that if we wished it, the performer would sound the notes for 16
+<i>shillings</i>; this was a gross imposition to which we were little
+inclined to submit; but luckily, as we were coming down, we heard it
+opening its great bellows and re-echoing through the body of the church.
+We almost broke our necks in running downstairs, and leaving the Dutch
+guide to take care of himself, we found our way into the Organ loft, to
+the visible annoyance of the performer, who, seeing we were strangers,
+thought himself sure of his eight florins, but his duty and the Church
+service compelled him to go on, and he shook his head and growled in
+vain at our guide, who at this time appeared, intimating that he should
+take us away, as having no business there, but in vain. I heard the
+Organ, counted the 68 stops, examined at my leisure the stupendous
+instrument, while he was under the necessity of continuing his
+involuntary voluntary, till my curiosity was satisfied. We took up our
+residence at an Hotel <i>in the Wood</i>, so-called from being the place of
+promenade and site of the new palace, but <i>ci-devant</i> residence of Mrs.
+Hope, and, in fact, from being also a respectable wood of tolerably
+sized trees.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image230" id="image230"></a>
+<a href="images/230.jpg">
+<img src="images/230_th.jpg" width="650" height="395" alt="PETER THE GREAT&#39;S HOUSE, SAARDAM.
+To face p. 230." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">PETER THE GREAT&#39;S HOUSE, SAARDAM.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 230.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By the best chance in the world here, too, we fell in with a f�te on the
+river. Some great Burgomaster had married himself, and all the world of
+Haarlem came forth in boats, decorated with colors, and bands of music
+in procession up the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_231" id="page_231">[231]</a></span> river to pass in review before the Princess of
+Orange, an elderly-looking woman. She sat in the window of a summer
+house overlooking the river, and the festive procession assembled before
+her. It was a lovely evening, and nothing could be more gay and
+animating than the scene. We this morning at 6 quitted Haarlem in the
+boat in which I am now writing as comfortably as in my own room, the
+motion scarcely perceptible, about 5 miles an hour; by good luck few
+passengers, and those above looking at a man who is at this incessant
+Dutch employment of painting. The boat is as clean as a china dish, but
+possibly it may not have been painted since last week. Edward has just
+daubed his hand by looking out of the window. I am rather puzzled in
+getting on here. Very little French is spoken; among the common people
+none, and we converse by signs.</p>
+
+<p>...Their money, too, is puzzling beyond measure. My stock consists of 5
+franc pieces (French), upon which, exclusive of their not always
+understanding what they are, there is a discount; this, of course, adds
+to the confusion, and now I despair of understanding the infinite
+variety of square, hexagon, round coins of copper and silver and base
+metal which pass through my hands.</p>
+
+<p>We passed two hours at Leyden as actively employed as a Foxhunter. We
+found a man who spoke French, told him our wishes, gave him a list of
+what was to be seen in the town, and then desired him to start,
+following him on the full trot<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_232" id="page_232">[232]</a></span> up and down churches, colleges,
+Townhalls, &amp;c. These towns are so much alike, that having seen one the
+interest is considerably lessened. Leyden, however, has the honour of
+possessing one of the finest streets in Holland; though capable of
+accommodating 65,000 souls, there are not more than 20,000, which gives
+it a melancholy appearance. In one part there is an area of about 3 or 4
+Cheshire acres planted with trees and divided with walls, which in 1807
+was covered, like the rest of the town, with good houses, but it
+happened that a barge full of gunpowder passing through the canal, blew
+up, killed 200 people, including a very clever Professor Lugai, and
+destroyed all the houses. It was a sad catastrophe, to be sure; but now,
+as it is all over, and all the good people's mourning laid aside, I
+think the Town may be congratulated as a gainer. I could fill up my
+letter with the anatomical preparations of the celebrated Albinus; but
+though I am very partial to these sights, I doubt whether you would be
+amused by a description of dried men, with their hearts, lungs, and
+brains suspended in different bottles. The town is full of booksellers'
+shops, in which capital Classics might be procured and divers others old
+books. The windows were also well filled with new works translated into
+Dutch; few, I think, original; amongst others, I saw "Ida of
+Athens!"<a name="FNanchor_93_93" id="FNanchor_93_93"></a><a href="#Footnote_93_93" class="fnanchor">[93]</a> ...</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image233" id="image233"></a>
+<a href="images/233.jpg">
+<img src="images/233_th.jpg" width="650" height="402" alt="DUTCH FISHERMEN." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">DUTCH FISHERMEN.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 233.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It is not easy to trace the sieges of Philip 2nd in these towns, as the
+fortifications are most of them<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_233" id="page_233">[233]</a></span> extinct, fortresses of more modern
+construction being now the keys of the country. Neat villas and gardens
+by the canal side marked our approach to the seat of government&mdash;and a
+very first-rate Town the Hague is, though I cannot conceive how the
+people escape agues and colds in Autumn. Stagnant canals and pools, with
+all circulation of air checked by rows of trees, cannot be healthy.
+Unfortunately for us, Lord Clancarty is at Bruxelles with the Prince of
+Orange. The Hague appears, from what I have seen, to be a better town
+for permanent residence than Bruxelles or Antwerp. The houses are all
+good, which implies a superior quality of inhabitants. In the evening we
+took a drive to Scheveningen, a fishing village about 2 or 3 miles
+distant, through a delightful avenue. It is one of the fashionable
+resorts of the town, and is absolute perfection on a hot day, though
+pregnant with damp and dew in the evening. I told you of dog carts at
+Bruxelles, but here seems to be the region of despotic sway of the poor
+beasts. I believe that I am not wrong in stating that nearly all the
+fish is carried by them from Scheveningen to the Hague; and the weight
+they draw is surprising. We passed many canine equipages; in one sat a
+fisherman and his wife drawn by three dogs not much bigger than
+Pompey&mdash;he with his pipe in his mouth, she with an enormous Umbrella
+Hat, as grave as Pluto and Proserpine. I saw several nice goat gigs;
+moreover, I am determined to have one for Owen....<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_234" id="page_234">[234]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>...It is quite extraordinary with what excessive silence and gravity
+these people carry on their affairs. On returning from Scheveningen at a
+good round trot, we came in contact with another carriage. Luckily no
+other accident happened than breaking their traces and grinding their
+wheels. But though disabled by our driver, not a syllable of complaint
+or commiseration was uttered by one party or the other. Our driver
+proceeded, leaving them to take care of themselves. I observed, too,
+that in man&#339;uvering the Vessel in passing the Gulf yesterday, where some
+tacks were necessary, all was performed in perfect silence; no
+halloo-ing&mdash;a nod or a puff was alone sufficient....</p>
+
+<p>And so are we coming to the close of our Tour&mdash;our next stage will be
+Rotterdam, from whence I shall bear my own dispatches.... In the course
+of my life this last month will bear a conspicuous place from the
+interesting and delightful scenes it has afforded me. I must confess I
+left England with some waverings and misgivings; the accounts of others
+led me to expect that disappointments, difficulties, and great expense
+would be the inevitable accompaniments of my course. But in no instance
+have I been disappointed, the difficulties too trifling to deserve the
+name, the expense nothing compared with the profits derived, and I have
+seen enough of men and manners, of things animate and inanimate, to make
+me quite at home in some of the great scenes which have just been
+performed....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image234" id="image234"></a>
+<a href="images/234.jpg">
+<img src="images/234_th.jpg" width="650" height="326" alt="DUTCH CARRIAGE." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">DUTCH CARRIAGE.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 234.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_235" id="page_235">[235]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI</h3>
+
+<p class="head">THE WATERLOO YEAR</p>
+
+<p class="contents">Lord Sheffield's forebodings&mdash;Talleyrand and the Senate&mdash;Vagabond
+Royalty&mdash;Mr. North and Napoleon&mdash;The rout of the Bourbon
+Government.</p>
+
+
+<p class="c">1814-1816.</p>
+
+<p class="nind"><span class="letter">T</span><b>HE</b>
+two years which intervened between Edward Stanley's second and third
+visits to France saw the Empire regained and lost by Napoleon, and the
+French Crown lost and regained by Louis XVIII.</p>
+
+<p>In spite of the rose-coloured description of the comforts and pleasures
+of his journey with which the correspondence of 1814 closes, neither the
+Rector nor his brother found it possible to travel on the Continent in
+1815, which Lady Maria had foretold would be "a much more favourable
+time."</p>
+
+<p>Such hopes must soon have been dashed by the proceedings of the Congress
+of Vienna, which, as was said, "danse mais n'avance pas," and gloomy
+forebodings are shewn in two letters from Lord<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_236" id="page_236">[236]</a></span> Sheffield to his
+son-in-law, which were received at Alderley in the autumn of 1814 and
+the spring of 1815.</p>
+
+<p>The first gives Lord Sheffield's view of the situation, and the second
+describes Napoleon's own remarks upon it to Lord Sheffield's nephew, Mr.
+Frederick Douglas.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Sheffield Place</span>, <i>October 30, 1814</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is time I should provoke some symptom of your existence. I have no
+letters from Frederick North,<a name="FNanchor_94_94" id="FNanchor_94_94"></a><a href="#Footnote_94_94" class="fnanchor">[94]</a> but I can acquaint you that we had
+himself here, which is still better, and that he has been infinitely
+entertaining, after three or four months' tour on the Continent, from
+whence he arrived about three weeks ago, and where he proposes to return
+next week, to pass the winter at Nice with the Glenbervies and Lady
+Charlotte Lindsay, who are gone there, and, I might add, with many other
+English families. I begin to think I shall have more acquaintances on
+the Continent than in England; the migration there is beyond
+calculation.</p>
+
+<p>The present is an anxious period. Perhaps there isn't in the History of
+the world a more complete instance of political imbecility than was
+exhibited in the late Peace at Paris, especially in the Allies not
+availing themselves of the very extraordinary<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_237" id="page_237">[237]</a></span> opportunity of securing
+the tranquillity of Europe for a long time.</p>
+
+<p>I conceive that the most selfish ambition will not have been more
+hurtful than liberality run mad. And as I am not without apprehension of
+that fanaticism, which for some time has interfered even with
+Parliament, and to which there has been too much concession, I incline
+to the opinion that enthusiasm, as fanaticism, is generally more hurtful
+to society than scepticism. The fanatic measures are evidently
+systematic and combined.</p>
+
+<p>Everybody now looks eagerly towards the Congress of Vienna. Talleyrand
+displays the cloven foot, by refusing to recognise the junction of all
+the Netherlands. However, the Bourbons, France, and all Europe may be
+thankful to Talleyrand.</p>
+
+<p>You have often heard of Barth�lemy.<a name="FNanchor_95_95" id="FNanchor_95_95"></a><a href="#Footnote_95_95" class="fnanchor">[95]</a> His brother, a banker at Paris,
+first moved in the Senate the d�ch�ance of the Buonaparte family.
+Alexander was treating respecting a Regency. The King of Prussia did not
+attempt to take a lead, but was well disposed to put down the dynasty.
+The Emperor of Austria had always declared that he would treat with
+Buonaparte for Peace, under restrictions, still co-operating with the
+Allies.</p>
+
+<p>While matters were in this state Talleyrand took the opportunity of
+sending a message to the Senate, saying that the family was deposed, and
+by this step decided the business.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_238" id="page_238">[238]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Buonaparte never showed a disposition to treat and to agree to terms;
+but when he had seemingly agreed, he denied or broke off the next day.
+The failure or desertion of the Marshals completed his overthrow.</p>
+
+<p>It is surprising that he did not attempt to join Augereau's Army,<a name="FNanchor_96_96" id="FNanchor_96_96"></a><a href="#Footnote_96_96" class="fnanchor">[96]</a>
+and retire into Italy, where he had forty thousand very good troops. At
+all events we must rest upon the pinnacle of glory and honour, although
+we have not secured a permanency of them. By premature concession we
+have yielded the means of securing the advantages we had gained.</p>
+
+<p>The affair at Lake Champlain<a name="FNanchor_97_97" id="FNanchor_97_97"></a><a href="#Footnote_97_97" class="fnanchor">[97]</a> has been most unlucky, as it will
+encourage the Yankies, under the present inveterate and execrable
+Government, to persevere in a ruinous warfare&mdash;ruinous to the American
+States, and galling to this country, liable to be distracted by the
+efforts of an interested and mischievous faction, which, through lack of
+firmness in Government, often paralyses measures of the utmost
+consequence.</p>
+
+<p>I have seen several letters from Madrid, and I have one from thence now
+before me of the 3rd inst.</p>
+
+<p>A degree of infatuation prevails there which you could hardly conceive
+possible. The account comes from a very respectable and rational
+quarter. The<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_239" id="page_239">[239]</a></span> most respectable characters are most violently persecuted,
+and the persons arraigned are confined in dungeons, no communication
+permitted; and persons convicted of the most atrocious acts are not even
+in disgrace.</p>
+
+<p>While officers and soldiers invalided by wounds are starving, the
+King<a name="FNanchor_98_98" id="FNanchor_98_98"></a><a href="#Footnote_98_98" class="fnanchor">[98]</a> is profuse to persons of no merit, and has given a pension of
+1,000 dollars to a young lady who sang before him, &amp;c., &amp;c.</p>
+
+<p>The Spanish Funds, which on the King's arrival were at 85, are now at
+50. The Revenue is less than 20 millions of Dollars, the expenditure
+nearly 50.</p>
+
+<p>Spain is likely to be in as bad a state as ever, excepting the presence
+of a French Army; consequently I conceive their Transatlantic Dominions
+will be lost to them.</p>
+
+<p>Nothing, however, could be more favourable to our Commerce than their
+emancipation. Such an event, and a proper Boundary between us and the
+American States, would be the most favourable result of the war to this
+country.</p>
+
+<p>There is an uncommonly good Pamphlet published on this subject entitled
+"A completed View of the points to be discussed in treating with the
+American States." I cannot do less than admire it, because it seems
+taken from my shop, or at least it adopts all the principles, with a
+considerable amelioration, by taking the Line of Mountains into the
+Lakes, and all the Lakes within our Boundary.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_240" id="page_240">[240]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>I am very much entertained with an Anecdote in a letter of the 8th inst.
+now before me, from Switzerland, which states that the Princess of Wales
+dined a few days before with the Empress Maria Louisa and the
+Archduchess Constantine,<a name="FNanchor_99_99" id="FNanchor_99_99"></a><a href="#Footnote_99_99" class="fnanchor">[99]</a> at Berne, and after dinner the Empress and
+Princess sang Duets, and the Archduchess accompanied them. Two years ago
+nobody would have believed such an event possible.</p>
+
+<p>All this vagabond Royalty is found extremely troublesome by travellers,
+filling up all the beds, and carrying away all the horses. The above
+dinner party reminds me of Candide meeting at the Table d'H�te during
+the Carnival at Venice, with two ex-emperors, and a few ex-kings.</p>
+
+<p>The Princess of Wales could not be prevailed on to remain more than ten
+days at Brunswick. She left Lady Charlotte Lindsay<a name="FNanchor_100_100" id="FNanchor_100_100"></a><a href="#Footnote_100_100" class="fnanchor">[100]</a> and Serinyer
+behind her, and proceeded with Lady Elizabeth Forbes to Strasburg, where
+she found Talma, the renowned Actor, and halted there ten days.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Sheffield Place</span>, <i>February 1, 1815</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>We are much entertained with Fred Douglas's<a name="FNanchor_101_101" id="FNanchor_101_101"></a><a href="#Footnote_101_101" class="fnanchor">[101]</a> account of his visit of
+four days to the Isle of Elba.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_241" id="page_241">[241]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the third evening he had an interview with Buonaparte for an hour and
+a half&mdash;the conversation very curious. He says that Buonaparte is not at
+all like any of his Prints; that he is a stout, thick-set figure, which
+makes him look short; his features rather coarse and his eyes very
+light, and particularly dull; but his mouth, when he smiles, is full of
+a very sweet, good-humoured expression; that at first he strikes you as
+being a very common-looking man, but upon observing him and conversing
+with him, you perceive that his countenance is full of deep thought and
+decision.</p>
+
+<p>He says he received him with much good humour, and talked to him of the
+English Constitution, with which he seemed well acquainted; said that
+France never could have the same, because it wanted one of the principal
+parts of it, "Les Nobles de Campagne." He talked also much about our
+church Laws, of which he appeared to be well informed, but said he heard
+there was much ill humour in Scotland on account of the <i>Union</i>!
+Frederick thought he meant Ireland, but found he really did mean
+Scotland, and had no idea that the Union had taken place above a hundred
+years ago.</p>
+
+<p>He said he did not think the Peace would last; that the French Nation
+would never submit long to give up Belgium, and that he would have
+yielded all except that; that he would have given up the Slave Trade, as
+it was a Brigandage of very little use to France. He had a most
+extraordinary idea<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_242" id="page_242">[242]</a></span> of how it should be abolished, viz., he said he
+would allow Polygamy among the Whites in the West Indies, that they
+might inter-marry with the Blacks, and all become Brothers and Sisters.
+He said that he had consulted a Bishop upon this, who had objected to it
+as contrary to the Christian Religion.</p>
+
+<p>He seemed very anxious to know concerning the quarrels of the Regent and
+his wife, upon which subject F., of course, evaded giving him any
+answers. He said, "On dit qu'il aime la M�re de ce Yarmouth&mdash;mais vous
+Anglais, vous aimez les vielles Femmes," and he laughed very much. He
+avoided speaking of Maria Louisa, but spoke of Jos�phine with affection,
+saying, "Elle �toit une excellente Femme." He said that the motive of
+his expedition into Russia was, first, that it was necessary to lead the
+French Army somewhere, and then that he wished to establish Poland as an
+independent kingdom; for that he had always loved the Poles, and had
+many obligations to them. He talked of all his battles as you would of a
+show, saying "C'�toit un Spectacle magnifique."</p>
+
+<p class="top5">When Napoleon had fulfilled his own prophecies of the prompt disturbance
+of the Peace of Europe by landing at Cannes, just six days from the date
+of this last letter, Lord Sheffield writes again, after war had been
+declared by the Allies.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_243" id="page_243">[243]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Sheffield Place</span>, <i>March 24, 1815</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I was greatly oppressed by the first intelligence of Napoleon's
+Invasion. I was afterwards re-elevated, and now I am tumbled down again.</p>
+
+<p>To be sure, there never was such an execrable nation as the French. The
+much more respectable Hindoos could not more meekly submit to any
+conqueror that chooses to run through their country at the head of a set
+of miscreant soldiers. The Pretorian band that in the time of Imperial
+Rome used to dispose of Empires is perfectly re-established. Immediate
+notice was sent me from Newhaven of the Duke of Feltre's<a name="FNanchor_102_102" id="FNanchor_102_102"></a><a href="#Footnote_102_102" class="fnanchor">[102]</a> (Minister
+of War) arrival there, and of poor Louis's flight from Paris.</p>
+
+<p>I immediately set out, with the intention of rendering service to the
+variety of wretches that were pouring in upon our coast, English and
+French, but on my way called at Stanmer, where I found that this famous
+Minister of War was gone forward to London, that the few ship-loads that
+had got over to Newhaven were disposed of, and an embargo having been
+laid on the Ports of France, of course there was nothing more to be done
+on our coast.</p>
+
+<p>I returned home at night, and just as I was going<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_244" id="page_244">[244]</a></span> out of Stanmer Park I
+met the Duke of Taranto<a name="FNanchor_103_103" id="FNanchor_103_103"></a><a href="#Footnote_103_103" class="fnanchor">[103]</a> entering, for whom Lord Chichester had sent
+his carriage. The Duke of Feltre brought the intelligence that the King
+was at Abbeville.</p>
+
+<p>I was considerably annoyed, because it seemed like inclining to England,
+and relinquishing all hopes of France. At Abbeville he certainly might
+turn off to Lisle, where I hope he is gone, and there, if there be any
+loyal Frenchmen, they may flock round his standard.</p>
+
+<p>All accounts, and letters, that I have seen from France agree that the
+country is almost universally against Buonaparte, and it is very clear
+all the Army is for him, and that all the Marshals adhere to Louis,
+except two. If so, and Napoleon has not the aid of his old Generals, he
+may find it difficult to manage the many Armies that he must keep on
+foot to repel the attacks that will be made on him from all sides.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot help thinking he is in a bad situation still. When all the
+Russians, Cossacks, Croats, Hungarians, Austrians, and all Germany
+clatter round him, and our very respectable army from the Netherlands
+advances, if he has nothing but the army in his favour, he will be
+considerably bothered, and I hope the sentimental, silly Alexander will
+never be suffered to interfere with his "beaux sentimens" in favour of
+the monster. If he should<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_245" id="page_245">[245]</a></span> be taken and I had the command I should never
+trouble Alexander nor anybody else, but take him by the Drum head,
+giving something like the sort of trial the Duc d'Enghien had and
+immediately extinguish him by exactly the same process, ceremony, &amp;c.,
+as he practised on the Duc d'Enghien.</p>
+
+<p>After all, and the worst of all, is that I apprehend we must pay the
+piper to enable the above-mentioned Hordes to take possession of France,
+and when there I flatter myself they will live upon the country. If we
+do not make some effort of the kind, all the money we have shed may be
+in a great degree thrown away. One great difficulty occurs to me, how
+will it be possible to dispose of the present French Army if it should
+be conquered, and how raise a French Army to maintain Louis's dominion?</p>
+
+<p>If Napoleon should be utterly extinguished, it may be possible to do
+something, but if he escapes (yet I know not where he can go) a large
+foreign Army must remain a long time in France.</p>
+
+<p>I must conclude by observing what a very extraordinary, strange creature
+a Frenchman is! Instead of attending the King, or suppressing Navy
+Dep�ts where there are only fifty loyal men, the Minister of War flies
+to England, and, as he represented, in order to join the King in
+Flanders. At Paris he was certainly nearer Flanders than he was at
+Dieppe....</p>
+
+<p class="yours">
+Yours ever,<br />
+<span class="smcap">Sheffield.</span>
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_246" id="page_246">[246]</a></span></p>
+<p>The Victory of Waterloo ended all fears of a fresh Imperial Despotism,
+and also all the hopes of those who, like Lord Sheffield and the Stanley
+family, were no great admirers of the Bourbon Dynasty.</p>
+
+<p>Edward Stanley's desire to revisit France was now coupled with a wish to
+realise the scene of the late Campaign, and he planned his journey so as
+to arrive there on the first anniversary of the battle, June 18, 1816.</p>
+
+<p>He was accompanied by Mrs. Stanley, by his brother-in-law, Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn,<a name="FNanchor_104_104" id="FNanchor_104_104"></a><a href="#Footnote_104_104" class="fnanchor">[104]</a> who had travelled with him in 1814, and by their
+mutual friend, Donald Crawford.</p>
+
+<p>Mrs. Stanley's bright and graphic letters contribute to the story of
+their adventures, and are added to make it complete.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image247" id="image247"></a>
+<a href="images/247.jpg">
+<img src="images/247_th.jpg" width="650" height="465" alt="Corn Mills at Vernon, July 11 1816.
+To face p. 247." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Corn Mills at Vernon, July 11 1816.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 247.</span></span>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_247" id="page_247">[247]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<h3><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h3>
+
+<p class="head">AFTER WATERLOO</p>
+
+<p class="contents">A long Channel passage&mdash;Bruges&mdash;The battlefield&mdash;A posting
+journey&mdash;Compi�gne&mdash;Paris&mdash;Michael Bruce.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>Spring, 1816.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...Edward has long talked of a week at Waterloo, and all the rest of the
+plan came tumbling after one day in talking it over with Edward
+Leycester, as naturally as possible, and I expect almost as much
+pleasure in seeing Cambridge and being introduced to the looks and
+manners at least of E. L.'s friends, and in seeing him there as in
+anything else. We are to pay a visit to Sir George and Lady Scovell at
+Cambray, and perhaps to Sheffield Place, on our return....</p>
+
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">St. John's College, Cambridge,</span><br />
+<i>June, 1816</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>I am very glad to have this opportunity of seeing what a college life
+is, as well as seeing Cambridge<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_248" id="page_248">[248]</a></span> itself and its contents animate and
+inanimate. I like both very much.</p>
+
+<p>We had a very pleasant journey. The road is not only prettier by
+Ashbourne and Derby, but better, and, provided your nerves can stand
+cantering down hill sometimes, you get on faster than on the other road.
+We drank tea at Nottingham on Monday and went up to the Castle.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Cambridge by 6 o'clock on Tuesday evening, and found
+Edward deep in his studies....</p>
+
+<p>This morning we breakfasted with George,<a name="FNanchor_105_105" id="FNanchor_105_105"></a><a href="#Footnote_105_105" class="fnanchor">[105]</a> and, after seeing
+libraries and people and buildings till I am tired, here I am, snug and
+comfortable, in Edward's room....</p>
+
+<p>We are off to-morrow for London.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Josepha Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Blenheim Hotel, London,</span><br />
+<i>Saturday</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>As we were coming yesterday Edward looked at the wind and decided that
+if Donald was not in the Thames then, he would have no chance of being
+here this week. We had not been here an hour when in he walked in high
+feather and gave me more reasons than I can remember for leaving his
+sisters and going with us....</p>
+
+<p>I have been to Waterloo<a name="FNanchor_106_106" id="FNanchor_106_106"></a><a href="#Footnote_106_106" class="fnanchor">[106]</a> and in Buonaparte's carriage. He has given
+an alarm by writing to France in spite of all their precautions.... We<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_249" id="page_249">[249]</a></span>
+have got our passports and arranged our going. Edward came back from the
+city with three plans&mdash;the steamboat, the packet, or a coach to
+ourselves to Ramsgate. We debated the three some time, at last, on the
+strength of hearing that the steamboat had been out two nights on its
+passage once, we decided on the coach, and the places were just secured
+when Mr. Foljambe came in and told us he was going to Ramsgate on
+Tuesday with some other friends of Edward's, and that it was the nicest
+vessel ever seen and more punctual than any coach, which made us all
+very angry as you may guess.... We set out to-morrow morning and get
+into the packet at Ramsgate at 7 in the evening. Let me find a nice
+folio at Paris, care of Perrigaux, Banquier, and I shall not feel your
+handwriting the least interesting thing I have to see there.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Louisa Dorothea Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Ramsgate</span>, <i>June 11th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Rapidly went the coach from Canterbury, 17 miles in an hour and a half.
+Fair blows the wind over the azure blue billow. "You will breakfast at
+Ostend," says the Captain, "to-morrow." "Oh, that Louisa were here!"
+says Donald. "She would die of delight," says Uncle, "and does not Uncle
+say true?" Conceive the view from Nottingham Castle on the evening we
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_250" id="page_250">[250]</a></span>left Alderley ... a noble precipice, frowning over a magnificent plain,
+from the terraces of which we beheld immediately at our feet almost
+numberless&mdash;for I counted in a second 54&mdash;little pets of gardens, each
+adorned with a love of a summerhouse to suit; in the corners of the
+rocks many excavations and caverns fancifully cut out and carved, into
+which each of the proprietors of the above-mentioned gardens might at
+leisure retire and become his own hermit. Then how shall I touch upon
+the delights of Cambridge? How shall I speak of Edward's beauty in his
+cap, all covered with little bows, and a smart black gown? And how shall
+I speak of his dinner and his party? Such merriment! Such hospitality!
+Only think, Louisa, of dining, breakfasting and supping day after day
+with 14 or 15 most accomplished, beautiful, and entertaining young
+gentlemen! But no more, lest you expire at the thought! As for London, I
+cannot well tell you what I did or saw, such a confused multiplicity of
+sights and succession of business have seldom been experienced. At 6
+this morning we started in the stage coach, the interior of which we
+took, excluding all intruders, and from hence at 3 o'clock on a lovely
+night, with an elegant moon, we embarked for Ostend.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address">(<i>Continued by Mrs. Stanley.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>I have persuaded Uncle to carry his letter over the water that you may
+not have the anxiety of thinking for 2 days about the passage, which a
+gentleman who dined with us to-day informed us<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_251" id="page_251">[251]</a></span> was the most precarious,
+dangerous, and uncertain known.</p>
+
+<p>But I consoled myself with not believing the gentleman in the first
+place, and by thinking with Aunt Clinton that as Mrs. Carleton was
+drowned so lately at Ostend, it is not likely another accident should
+happen at present.</p>
+
+<p>Here we are, waiting for the awful moment of embarkation, which I
+consider something like having a tooth out, but I live in hopes that,
+having been up early this morning and had 10 hours' jumbling, I may be
+sleepy enough to forget that I am on a shelf instead of a bed; so I have
+been just to admire the moon as we sail out of harbour, and then go to
+bed and find myself in sight of Ostend when I awake.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address">(<i>E. Stanley resumes next day.</i>)</p>
+
+<p>A dead calm succeeded to a gentle breeze, and on the soft, sleepy
+billows we have reposed in the Downs, rolling ever since. To comfort us
+we have a beautiful Packet and a limited number of passengers.</p>
+
+<p>The discomfort consists in a rapid diminution of all our provisions and
+the consequent prospect of no Tea, supper, or breakfast, or dinner
+to-morrow. One sailor said to another as he was skinning some miserable
+fish, "Aye, aye, they" (meaning the passengers) "will be glad enough of
+these in a day or two, and I was eleven days becalmed last year."</p>
+
+<p>Kitty, to fill up an hour of vacuity, said she would<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_252" id="page_252">[252]</a></span> draw, and to fill
+up my time this testifies that I have been thinking of you and wishing
+for your presence, for the Novelty alone would keep you in full
+effervesence and banish all Tediosity.</p>
+
+<p>I have, moreover, been playing with a sweet little French dog brought by
+one of the sailors from Boulogne. The sailors have daily given him two
+glasses of gin to check his growth, and a marvellous dog of Lilliput he
+is! Pray, my dear Lou, drink no gin, for you see the consequences.</p>
+
+<p>I had retired to bed, when Edward Leycester called me up to admire a
+beautiful display of Neptune's fireworks; wherever the surface of the
+waves was agitated, the circles of silver flashed and the drops were
+scattered far and wide.</p>
+
+<p>The morning dawned upon us nearly in the same position, not a breath
+troubled the surface, smooth and still as Radnor Mere on the sweetest
+evening.</p>
+
+<p>Famine began to stare us in the face; our provisions were nearly
+exhausted; two or more days might elapse before we reached Ostend.</p>
+
+<p>We breakfasted on tea, fried skate and cheese. Breakfast at an end, it
+was proposed to board the nearest vessel and beg or borrow a dinner. In
+the tide course appeared a sail, about five miles distant.</p>
+
+<p>The boat was lowered, volunteers stepped forward&mdash;Uncle, Edward, Donald,
+and a gentleman-like Belgian.</p>
+
+<p>Away we went and by hard rowing we came alongside the strange sail in an
+hour. Three leaden figures, motionless as the unwieldly bark they<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_253" id="page_253">[253]</a></span>
+manned, gazed curiously upon our approaching boat. Our Belgian friend
+hailed, but hailed in vain. They looked but spoke not. Again he spoke,
+and at length a monotonous "yaw" proclaimed that they were not dumb.</p>
+
+<p>We went on board and found a perfect Dutch family on their way from
+Antwerp to Rouen. Out stepped from her cabin the Captain's wife in
+appropriate costume, her close little cap, large gold necklace and
+ear-rings; and behind the Captain's spouse stepped forth two genuine
+descendants of the nautical couple. Large round heads with large round
+(what shall I say?) Hottentots to match and keep up the due balance
+between head and tail.</p>
+
+<p>Having explained our wants to the Captain, he produced as the chief
+restorative an incomparable bottle of Schiedam, <i>i.e.</i>, gin. To each he
+offered a good large glass, and then in answer to our request for beef,
+four bottles of excellent claret, two square loaves. For this he asked a
+guinea, upon receiving which his features relaxed and he declared we
+should have two more bottles of claret. Upon hearing we had a lady in
+the packet he begged her acceptance of half a neat's tongue, some
+butter, and a bag of rusks. Loaded with them, we took a joyful leave of
+these sombre sailors and returned, with the orange cravat of our Belgian
+friend for a flag, in triumph to the packet.</p>
+
+<p>But a truce to my pen. Ostend is in sight, and now we are all rubbing
+our hands and congratulating<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_254" id="page_254">[254]</a></span> each other that wind and tide are in our
+favour and that we shall be in in a couple of hours.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Isabella Stanley.</i><a name="FNanchor_107_107" id="FNanchor_107_107"></a><a href="#Footnote_107_107" class="fnanchor">[107]</a></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Bruges</span>, <i>June 14, 1816</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>On our return from the Dutch vessel from which we recruited our
+exhausted store, we found our poor Captain in sad tribulation, his
+patience exhausted, but his temper luckily preserved. Having paced his
+deck with a fidgeting velocity a due number of times, peeped thro' his
+glass at every distant sail or cloud to observe whether they were in any
+degree movable, and invoked Boreas in the most pitiable terms such as
+"Oh Borus! Now do, good Borus just give us a blow," we had the
+satisfaction at length, the supreme satisfaction, of perceiving a gentle
+curl upon the water which soon settled into a steady breeze, before
+which we glided away, delightfully enjoying our dinner upon the deck,
+during which our party manifested their respective characters in most
+charming style. One Farmer Dinmont<a name="FNanchor_108_108" id="FNanchor_108_108"></a><a href="#Footnote_108_108" class="fnanchor">[108]</a> and Dousterswivel, a Dutchman,
+were perfect specimens. A merry Belgian Equerry to the Prince of Orange,
+laughed, joked, and amused us with sleight-of-hand tricks. Our Dutch
+beef, tho' doubtless salt far beyond due proportion, was relished by
+all, Dinmont excepted, who pronounced it, together with the
+dark-coloured bread, unfit for English hogs, and shook his head with<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_255" id="page_255">[255]</a></span> a
+most significant expression of doubt at my assertion that I never
+enjoyed a better dinner in my life. At five o'clock the low sand hills
+appeared to view in little nodules upon the horizon, and the Steeple of
+Ostend with its Lighthouse were visible from deck. At 6 we were close in
+upon land, and in half an hour were boarded by a Dutch boat, but alas!
+there was nothing in its appearance to excite curiosity, and with the
+exception of large earrings you might have fancied yourself in Holyhead
+Harbour. Four stout, tall fellows, hard and resolute in feature and
+decided in action, proclaimed their near alliance to British Jack Tars.
+They remained a little while and tried to cheat the passengers as much
+as possible, to take us on shore, but finding us determined to remain
+till the Captain could get his own boat ready, they shrugged their
+shoulders, abused us in Dutch, and sailed away. We were too many for one
+boat, so taking Kitty and the best of our English passengers and honest
+Farmer Dinmont, with all the luggage, we pushed off from the vessel.
+People of all descriptions, pilots, sailors, customs officers, soldiers,
+waiters soliciting customs for their respective turns. Porters regular
+and irregular, the latter consisting of a sort of light Infantry corps
+of ragged boys. All these people, I say, were crowded together on a
+little peninsular jetty against which our boat was shoved, and no sooner
+had the oars ceased to play and our keel cleared the sand than all these
+people set up their pipes in every dialect of every<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_256" id="page_256">[256]</a></span> tongue, French and
+English both bad of their sort, Dutch high and low, Flemish and German.
+All burst upon us at one and the same moment, and the Cossack corps of
+ragged porters all stept forward, arm, leg and foot, to claim the honour
+of carrying up (most probably of carrying off) our baggage. By dint of
+words fair and foul, a shove here and a push there, I contrived to get
+Kitty under my arm and superintend, tho' with no small trouble and
+inconceivable watchfulness, the adjustment of our small portmanteaux,
+writing case, &amp;c., in a wheelbarrow, which, from its formidable length
+of handle, bespoke its foreign manufacturer. On we jogged, but jogged
+not long; for before this accumulating procession could disperse we were
+arrested by a whiskered soldier, who in unintelligible terms announced
+himself a searcher of baggage. So to the custom house we went, when each
+trunk was opened and submitted to a slight inspection; the chief
+difficulty consisting in putting myself in 2 places at once&mdash;one close
+to the dep�t of our goods in the barrow, the other before the officer
+with the keys. Kitty was wedged in a corner with a writing case and, I
+think, Donald's sword. My English companion was equally on the alert,
+but Farmer Dinmont would have excited all your compassion, or rather
+admiration; for here amidst the din of tongues and arms, unable to move
+hand or foot, he stood with a smile of mingled resignation and wonder;
+at length, the search being concluded to the satisfaction of both
+parties, we<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_257" id="page_257">[257]</a></span> re-commenced our course, and in a few minutes Kitty found
+herself in a new world. Women and children unlike any women and children
+you ever saw; close caps with butterfly wings for the former, little
+black skull bonnets for the latter, in shape both alike, much resembling
+those toys which, if placed on their heads, by their superior specific
+gravity and extensive sacrifice of their lower projections instantly
+revolve and settle upon their tails.</p>
+
+<p>"Voici, Messieurs et Madame, entrons dans la Cour Imp�riale," and
+another moment hoisted us within the covered gateway of this Hotel of
+Imperial appellation. Our arrangements for sleeping and eating being
+complete, we sat down on a bench before the door to gaze, but not to be
+gazed upon, for the good people never cast an eye upon us. On retiring
+to tea, good Farmer Dinmont's countenance relaxed as he flung himself
+into a chair; he put his hands upon the table and exclaimed, "Well,
+well, here I am sitting down for the first time out of Old England!" ...
+A cup of tea, or rather a kettle full, for our salt beef had kindled an
+insatiable thirst, put him in good humour again, and, but for a sort of
+sigh or a look or a jerk which proved Old England to be uppermost in his
+thoughts, he appeared quite satisfied. With some trouble Kitty secured
+the fly cap chambermaid and had taken possession of her room; having
+seen her safe, I descended to give orders for a warming-pan, leaving her
+(after having been 2 nights in<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_258" id="page_258">[258]</a></span> her clothes) to the luxury of an entire
+change of linen and course of ablutions. On re-crossing the court 10
+minutes afterwards I ran against a waiter running off with a
+warming-pan, glowing with red-hot embers. "Mais donc" said I, "Madame
+wants a warming-pan. Allons, where is the chambermaid to carry it?" "Oh,
+n'importe," replied this flying Mercury; "c'est moi qui fera cela pour
+la dame!" Only guess Kitty's escape! Another moment and he would have
+been in her presence, warming-pan and all. By dint of remonstrating I
+checked his course and prevailed upon the Maid to go herself with vast
+ill humour, innumerable shrugs, and some few "Mon Dieu's" and other
+suitable expressions. Kitty must herself be the interpreter of her own
+feelings in these lands of novelty. I am almost glad you were, none of
+you, here to witness what she will have such pleasure in describing. Our
+morning passed away in strolling over the town. Kitty and I dined at the
+table d'h�te with about 20 people. Farmer Dinmont sent for a bottle of
+the best wine to try it and offered me a glass. I begged to propose a
+toast, "Prosperity to Old England." His features brightened up, he
+grasped the bottle, filled a bumper, and replied, "Aye, aye, with all my
+heart; that Toast I would drink in ditch water." We left Ostend at 3
+o'clock to take passage in the Bruges canal, and I do assure you we all
+felt quite sorry to leave our dear, good, honest John Bull.</p>
+
+<p>At Saas we fell in with a specimen of Lord<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_259" id="page_259">[259]</a></span> Wellington's operations.
+There is a formidable battery erected last year by way of guarding
+Ostend from a "coup de main"; it is singular that the English have
+placed a Battery for the defence close to the celebrated sluice gates of
+this canal, which gates were blown up by Sir Evelyn Coote to prevent the
+French from inundating the country, when he invaded it some years
+before.</p>
+
+<p>Behold us seated in a spacious room, for it does not deserve the
+diminutive name of "Cabin," decorated with hangings of green cloth and
+gold border, on board a most commodious barge. Behold us on a lovely
+evening starting from the Quay with full sail and 3 horses, a man
+mounted on one and cracking a great long whip to drive on the other two,
+which trotted away abreast at the rate of 4&frac12; miles an hour. Behold us
+seated on this easy chair of Neptune! our ears deafened and our spirits
+enlivened by a band of music&mdash;trumpet, violin, and bass&mdash;admirably
+playing Waltzes and other national tunes. When they had amused us on
+deck they went below to another class of auditors. Our fellow traveller,
+Mr. Trueman, followed them, and perceiving him to be English they struck
+up "God save the King." A Frenchman called out "Ba, ba," a very
+expressive mode of communicating disapprobation, but seeing Trueman was
+of a different opinion, he ceased from his "Ba, ba," and stepping
+towards him made him a low bow. About 6 o'clock we arrived at Bruges, or
+rather to the wharf from whence passengers betake themselves and<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_260" id="page_260">[260]</a></span>
+portmanteaux to barrows and sledges. As we approached our Band resumed
+their musical exertions. A crowd assembled to welcome our arrival, Gigs,
+coaches (such coaches!!), Horsemen (such Horsemen!!), were parading.
+Such a light with such a rainbow shone upon such an avenue and such
+picturesque gate!! Our baggage filled a car drawn by 3 stout men; and we
+all followed in the rear.... Bruges is a town affording five or six
+volumes of sketches; towers, roofs, gable ends, bridges&mdash;all in
+succession called for exclusive admiration. It was decided that we
+should rise at 4, breakfast at 6, and see all that was possible before
+9, when we were to continue our route to Ghent. At 3 o'clock I was
+prepared, but a steady rain forced me reluctantly to bed again, but we
+did breakfast at 6, and did pick up two or three sketches.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Brussels</span>, <i>June 18, 1816</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image260" id="image260"></a>
+<a href="images/260.jpg">
+<img src="images/260_th.jpg" width="650" height="335" alt="FRENCH CABRIOLET.
+To face p. 260." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">FRENCH CABRIOLET.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 260.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the 18th of June, how can I begin with any other subject than
+Waterloo?... At 8 this morning we mounted our Cabriolets for Waterloo.
+Donald put on his Waterloo medal for the first time, and a French shirt
+he got in the spoils, and a cravat of an officer who was killed, and I
+wrapped myself in his Waterloo cloak, and we all felt the additional
+sensation which the anniversary of the day produced on everybody. It
+brought the comparison of the past and present day more perfectly home.
+Donald was<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_261" id="page_261">[261]</a></span> ready with his recollections every minute of the day, what
+had been his occupation or his feeling. The forest of Soignies is a fine
+approach to the field of battle&mdash;dark, damp, and melancholy. If you had
+heard nothing about it, you could hardly help feeling, in passing
+through it, that you would not like to cross it alone. There are no fine
+trees, but the extent and depth of wood gives it all the effect of a
+fine one, and an effect particularly suited to the associations
+connected with it. The road&mdash;a narrow pavement in the middle with black
+mud on each side&mdash;looks as if it had never felt a ray of sun, and from
+its state to-day gave me a good idea of what it must have been.
+Sometimes the road is raised thro' a deep hollow, and it was not
+possible to look down without shuddering at the idea of the horses and
+carriages and men which had been overturned one upon another; in some
+parts the trees are <i>� la</i> Ralph Leycester, and you see the dark black
+of shade of the distant wood through them; but in other parts it is so
+choked with brushwood and inequalities of ground, that you could not see
+two yards before you, and no gorge was ever so good a cover for foxes as
+this for all evil-disposed persons. At Waterloo we stopped to see the
+Church, or rather the monuments in it, put up by the different regiments
+over their fallen officers. They are all badly designed and executed but
+one Latin one&mdash;not half so good as the epitaph on Lord Anglesey's leg
+which the man had buried with the utmost veneration in his garden and
+planted a tree<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_262" id="page_262">[262]</a></span> over it; and he shows as a relic almost as precious as a
+Catholic bit of bone or blood, the blood upon a chair in the room when
+the leg was cut off, which he had promised my lord "<i>de ne jamais
+effacer</i>".</p>
+
+<p>At Mont St. Jean Donald began to know where he was. Here he found the
+well where he had got some water for his horse; here the green pond he
+had fixed upon as the last resource for his troop; here the cottage
+where he had slept on the 17th; here the breach he had made in the hedge
+for his horses to get into the field to bivouac; here the spot where he
+had fired the first gun; here the hole in which he sat for the surgeon
+to dress his wound. He had never been on the field since the day of the
+battle, and his interest in seeing it again and discovering every spot
+under its altered circumstances was fully as great as ours.</p>
+
+<p>After all that John Scott<a name="FNanchor_109_109" id="FNanchor_109_109"></a><a href="#Footnote_109_109" class="fnanchor">[109]</a> or Walter Scott or anybody can describe
+or even draw, how much more clear and satisfactory is the conception
+which one single glance over the reality gives you in an instant, than
+any you can form from the best and most elaborate description that can
+be given! To see it in perfection would be to have an officer of every
+regiment to give you an account just of everything he saw and did on the
+particular spot where he was stationed.</p>
+
+<p>Donald scarcely knew as much as Edward did or as the people about of
+what passed anywhere but just at his own station. But at every place it
+was<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_263" id="page_263">[263]</a></span> sufficient to ask the inhabitants where they were and what they
+saw, to obtain interesting information.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image263" id="image263"></a>
+<a href="images/263.jpg">
+<img src="images/263_th.jpg" width="650" height="459" alt="Hougoumont ... June 18th
+To face p. 263." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Hougoumont ... June 18th
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 263.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Every plan I have seen makes it much too irregular, rough ground; it is
+all undulating, smooth ups and downs, so gradual that you must look some
+time before you discover all the irregularity there is. Hougoumont<a name="FNanchor_110_110" id="FNanchor_110_110"></a><a href="#Footnote_110_110" class="fnanchor">[110]</a>
+is the only interesting point, and that by having an air of peace and
+retirement about it most opposite to what took place in it.</p>
+
+<p>It is a respectable, picturesque farmhouse, with pretty trees and sweet
+fields all around it; the ravages are not repaired and many of the trees
+cut down. We left our carriages in the road and walked all over the
+British position, and henceforward I shall have a clearer idea, not only
+of Waterloo, but of what a military position and military plan is like.</p>
+
+<p>At La Belle Alliance we sat upon a bench where Lord Wellington and
+Bl�cher perhaps met, and drank to their healths in Vin de Bordeaux. In
+spite of the corn, there are still bits of leather caps and bullets and
+bones scattered about in the fields, and you are pestered with children
+innumerable with relics of all sorts. We had heard magnificent accounts
+on our road here of all that was to be done on the field, balls, f�tes,
+sham fights, processions, and I do not know what, but they have all
+dwindled to a dinner given here to the Belgian soldiers and a Mass to be
+said for the souls of the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_264" id="page_264">[264]</a></span> dead to-morrow. However, we saw what we
+wished as we wished, and the impression is perhaps clearer than if it
+had been disturbed and mixed with other sights.</p>
+
+<p>And now, being near 12, and I having walked about 8 miles, and been up
+since 6, must go to bed, though I feel neither sleepy nor tired.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>To Lucy Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>June 24, 1816.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>...Away with me to Waterloo!</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Brussels on the evening of the 17th, and at seven o'clock
+started for the scene of action. From Brussels a paved road, with a
+carriage track on each side, passes for nine miles to the village of
+Waterloo.</p>
+
+<p>The Forest (of Soignies) is, without exception, one of the most
+cut-throat-looking spots I ever beheld, ... and for some days after the
+battle deserters and stragglers, chiefly Prussians, took up their abode
+in this appropriate place, and sallying forth, robbed, plundered, and
+often shot those who were unfortunate enough to travel alone or in small
+defenceless parties.</p>
+
+<p>After traversing this gloomy avenue for about four miles, the first
+symptoms of war met our eyes in the shape of a dead horse, whose ribs
+glared like a cheval-de-frise from a tumulus of mud. If the ghosts of
+the dead haunt these sepulchral groves, we must have passed through an
+army of spirits, as<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_265" id="page_265">[265]</a></span> our driver, who had visited the scene three days
+after the battle, described the last four miles as a continued pavement
+of men and horses dying and dead.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image265" id="image265"></a>
+<a href="images/265.jpg">
+<img src="images/265_th.jpg" width="650" height="488" alt="Interior of Hugomont June 18, 1816.
+To face p. 265." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Interior of Hugomont June 18, 1816.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 265.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At length a dome appears at the termination of the avenue. It is the
+church of Waterloo. They were preparing for a mass and procession, and
+the houses were most of them adorned with festoons of flowers or
+branches of trees....</p>
+
+<p>...We turned to the right down the Nivelle road, for it was there
+Donald's gun was placed, and some labourers who were ploughing on the
+spot brought us some iron shot and fragments of shell which they had
+just turned up. The hedges were still tolerably sprinkled with bits of
+cartridge-paper, and remnants of hats, caps, straps, and shoes were
+discernible all over the plains. Hougoumont was a heap of ruins, for it
+had taken fire during the action, and presented a very perfect idea of
+the fracas which had taken place that day year. How different now! A
+large flock of sheep, with their shepherd, were browsing at the gate,
+and the larks were singing over its ruins on one of the sweetest days we
+could have chosen for the visit. As I was taking a sketch in a quiet
+corner I heard a vociferation so loud, so vehement, and so varied, that
+I really thought two or three people were quarrelling close to me. In a
+moment the vociferator (for it was but one) appeared at my elbow with an
+explosion of French oaths and gesticulations equal to any discharge of
+grape-shot on the day of attack. "Comment, Monsieur," said<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_266" id="page_266">[266]</a></span> I, "What is
+the matter?" "Oh, les coquins! les sacr�s coquins" and away he went,
+abusing the coquins in so ambiguous a style that I doubted whether his
+wrath was venting against Napoleon or against his opponents. "Oui,"
+remarked I, "ils sont coquins; et Buonaparte, que pensez-vous de lui?"
+This was a sort of opening which I trusted would bring him to the point
+without a previous committal of myself. It certainly did bring him to
+the point, for he gave a bounce and a jump and his tongue came out, and
+his mouth foamed, and his eyes rolled, as with a jerk he ejaculated,
+"Napoleon! qu'est-ce que je pense de lui?" It was well for poor Napoleon
+that he was quiet and comfortable in St. Helena, for had he been at
+Hougoumont, I am perfectly convinced that my communicant would have sent
+him to moulder with his brethren in arms. Having vented his rage, I
+asked him if the French had ever got within the walls. "Yes," he said,
+"three times; but they were always repulsed"; he assured me he had been
+there during the attack and that he saw them within; but added, "How
+they came in at that door" (pointing to the gate by which we were
+standing and which was drilled with bullets), "or when they came in, or
+how or where they got out I cannot tell you, for what with the noise,
+and the fire, and the smoke, I scarcely knew where I was myself."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image267" id="image267"></a>
+<a href="images/267.jpg">
+<img src="images/267_th.jpg" width="650" height="406" alt="LA BELLE ALLIANCE.
+To face p. 267." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">LA BELLE ALLIANCE.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 267.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>One of the farm servants begged me to observe the chapel, which he
+hinted had been indebted to a miracle for its safety, and certainly as a
+good<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_267" id="page_267">[267]</a></span> Catholic he had a fair foundation for his belief, as the flames
+had merely burnt about a yard of the floor, having been checked, as he
+conceived, by the presence of the crucifix suspended over the door,
+which had received no other injury than the loss of part of its feet. He
+had remained there till morning, when, seeing the French advance and
+guessing their drift, he contrived to make good his escape, but returned
+the following day. What he then saw you may guess when I tell you that
+at the very door I stood upon a mound composed of earth and ashes upon
+which 800 bodies had been burnt. Every tree bore marks of death, and
+every ditch was one continued grave.</p>
+
+<p>From Hougoumont we walked to La Belle Alliance,<a name="FNanchor_111_111" id="FNanchor_111_111"></a><a href="#Footnote_111_111" class="fnanchor">[111]</a> crossing the
+neutral ground between the armies; a few days ago a couple of gold
+watches had been found, and I daresay many a similar treasure yet
+remains. At La Belle Alliance, a squalid farm house, we rested to take
+some refreshment. For a few biscuits and a bottle of common wine the
+woman asked us five francs, which being paid, I followed her into the
+house. Not perceiving me at the door, she met her husband, and bursting
+into a loud laugh, with a fly-up of arms and legs (for nothing in this
+country is done without gesticulation), she exclaimed, "Only think! ces
+gens-l� m'ont donn� cinq francs." In this miserable pot-house did the
+possessor find 280 wounded wretches<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_268" id="page_268">[268]</a></span> jammed together and weltering in
+blood when he returned on Monday morning. If I proceed to more
+particulars I foresee I should fill folios.</p>
+
+<p>I must carry you at once to La Haye Sainte.<a name="FNanchor_112_112" id="FNanchor_112_112"></a><a href="#Footnote_112_112" class="fnanchor">[112]</a> It was along a hedge
+that the severest work took place; it made me shudder to think that upon
+a space of fifty square yards 4,000 bodies were found dead. The ditches
+and the field formed one great grave. The earth told in very visible
+terms what occasioned its elasticity; upon forcing a stick down and
+turning up a clod, human bodies in an offensive state of decay
+immediately presented themselves. I found four Belgian peasants
+commenting upon one figure which was scarcely interred, and on walking
+under the outer wall of La Haye Sainte a hole was tenanted by myriads of
+maggots feasting upon a corpse.</p>
+
+<p>Here stands the Wellington tree,<a name="FNanchor_113_113" id="FNanchor_113_113"></a><a href="#Footnote_113_113" class="fnanchor">[113]</a> peppered with shot and stripped as
+high as a man can jump of its twigs and leaves, for every passenger
+jumps up for a relic. We stood upon the road where Buonaparte (defended
+by high banks) sent on, but <i>didn't</i> lead, 6,000 of his old Imperial
+Guard. They charged along the road up to La Haye Sainte, dwindling as
+they went by the incessant fire of 80 pieces of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_269" id="page_269">[269]</a></span> Artillery, many of them
+within a few yards, till their number did not exceed 300. Then Napoleon
+turned round to Bertrand, lifted his hand, cried out, "C'est tout perdu,
+c'est tout fini," and galloped off with La Corte and Bertrand,<a name="FNanchor_114_114" id="FNanchor_114_114"></a><a href="#Footnote_114_114" class="fnanchor">[114]</a>
+quitting most probably for ever a field of battle.</p>
+
+<p>A continued sheet of corn or fallowed fields occupy the whole plain. The
+crops are indifferent and the reason assigned is curious. The whole
+being trampled down last year, became the food of mice, which in
+consequence repaired thither from all quarters and increased and
+multiplied to such a degree that the soil is quite infested by them.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the heights where the British squares received the shock of the
+French Cavalry, we found an English officer's cocked hat, much injured
+apparently by a cannon shot, with its oilskin rotting away, and showing
+by its texture, shape, and quality that it had been manufactured by a
+fashionable hatter, and most probably graced the wearer's head in Bond
+Street and St. James's. Wherever we went we were surrounded by boys and
+beggars offering Eagles from Frenchmen's helmets, cockades, pistols,
+swords, cuirasses, and other fragments.</p>
+
+<p>At Brussels they gave the Belgian troops a dinner in a long, shady
+avenue, which was more<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_270" id="page_270">[270]</a></span> than they deserved, and in the evening the Town
+was illuminated. In the Newspaper I daresay there will be a splendid
+account of it, but it was a wretched display in the proportion of one
+tallow candle to 50 windows stuck up to glimmer and go out without the
+slightest taste or regularity.</p>
+
+<p>From Brussels we started in a nice open Barouche Landau on Thursday, the
+20th. We again crossed the Field of Waterloo and proceeded towards
+Genappes, a road along which we jogged merrily and peaceably, but which
+had last year on this same day been one continued scene of carnage and
+confusion: Prussians cutting off French heads, arms and legs by
+hundreds; Englishmen in the rear going in chase, cheering the Prussians
+and urging them in pursuit; the French, exhausted with fatigue and
+vexation, making off in all directions with the utmost speed.</p>
+
+<p>At Genappes we changed horses in the very courtyard where Napoleon's
+carriage was taken ... and were shown the spot where the Brunswick
+Hussars cut down the French General as a retaliation for the life of the
+Duke. The Postmaster told us what he could, which was not much; the only
+curious part was that in his narrative he never called the Highland
+Regiments "Les �cossais," but "Les Sans Culottes." The setting sun found
+us all covered with dust, rather tired and very hungry, and driving up,
+with some misgivings from what we had heard and from what we saw, to our
+Inn at Charleroi. "This is an abominable-looking house,"<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_271" id="page_271">[271]</a></span> said Donald.
+"Oh, jump out before we drive in and ask what we can get to eat." "Well,
+Donald, what success?" we all cried like young birds upon the return of
+the old one to the gaping, craving mouths in their nest. "The Landlady
+says she has nothing at all in the house, but if you will come in thinks
+something may be killed which will suffice for supper." This was a bad
+prospect....</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image270" id="image270"></a>
+<a href="images/270.jpg">
+<img src="images/270_th.jpg" width="650" height="448" alt="WATERLOO.
+To face p. 270." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">WATERLOO.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 270.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We three went on in quest of better accommodation, and drove first to
+enquire at the Post House. The first question the Postmaster asked was,
+What could induce us to come to a place from which there was no exit? We
+told him we wished to go to Maubeuge. Had you seen his shoulders elevate
+themselves above his ears. "To Maubeuge! Why, it is utterly impossible."
+"Well, then," we said, "to Mons." "Le chemin est �xecrable." "To
+Phillippe ville." "Encore plus mauvais." As a proof of which he told us
+that a government courier had two days before insisted upon being
+forwarded thither, that they had sent him off at 2 in the morning, to
+insure him time before daylight, that at 9 in the morning he was brought
+back, having proceeded with the utmost difficulty 2 leagues, and then
+being deposited in a rut by the fracture of his carriage. After a great
+deal of pro and con it was agreed that with more horses and great
+caution and stock of patience the road to Mons should be attempted, and
+we were directed to "Le Grand Monarque," a good name for these times,
+applicable to Buonaparte or Louis XVIII.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_272" id="page_272">[272]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was worth while to lose our way and encounter these unexpected
+difficulties for the amusement the landlady afforded us. We seemed
+almost at the end of the world. I am sure we felt so, for the people
+were so odd. Dinner she promised, and in half an hour proved by a
+procession of half a dozen capital dishes how wonderfully these people
+understand the art of cookery, in a place which in England would be
+considered upon a par with the "Eagle and Child."<a name="FNanchor_115_115" id="FNanchor_115_115"></a><a href="#Footnote_115_115" class="fnanchor">[115]</a> We asked her
+about the road in hopes of hearing a more satisfactory account. With a
+nod and a shrug, and an enlargement of the mouth and projection of lip,
+she replied, "Messieurs, je ne voudrais pas �tre un oiseau de mauvais
+augure, mais, pour les chemins il faut avouer qu'ils sont effroyables."</p>
+
+<p>I will venture to say such a "oiseau" as our speaker has never before
+been seen or heard of by any naturalist or ornithologist. Her figure and
+cloak were both inimitable. She gave such a tragi-comic account of her
+sufferings last year, during the time of the retreat, and in 1814 when
+the Russians were there, that while she laughed with one eye and cried
+with the other, we were almost inclined to do the same. She had been
+pillaged by a French officer in a manner which surpassed any idea we
+could have formed of French oppression and barbarity. At one time the
+Cossacks caught her, and on some dispute about a horse, 4 of them took
+her each by an arm and leg and laying her upon her<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_273" id="page_273">[273]</a></span> "Ventre" flat as a
+pancake, a fifth cracked his knout (whip) most fearfully over her head,
+and prepared himself to apply the said whip upon our poor landlady. By
+good fortune an officer rescued her from their clutches, but she
+shivered like a jelly when she described her feelings in her awkward
+position, like a boat upon the shore bottom upwards. Then she told us
+how her husband died of fright, or something very near it. Her account
+of him was capital, "Il �toit," said she, "un bon papa du temps pass�,"
+by which perhaps you may imagine she was young and handsome. She was
+very old and as ugly as Hecate.</p>
+
+<p>Well, my sheet is at an end, and my hand quite knocked up. We did get to
+Mons, but the roads were "effroyable." At one moment (luckily we were
+not in it) the carriage stuck in the mud and paused. "Shall I go? or
+shall I not go?" Luckily it preferred the latter, and returned to its
+position on 4 wheels instead of 2.</p>
+
+<p class="yours smcap">E. Stanley.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p>And now to return to what pleased me first: Bruges&mdash;where I first felt
+myself completely out of England. The buildings were so entirely unlike
+any I have seen before that I could have fancied myself rather walking
+amongst pictures than houses. The winding streets are so interesting
+when you do not know what new sight a new turn will present;<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_274" id="page_274">[274]</a></span> especially
+when, as in this case, the new sight was so satisfactory every time.
+Ghent is a much finer town but not near so picturesque; but we were
+fortunate in falling in here with a fine Catholic procession. We went to
+the top of the Cathedral, and as we were coming down the great bell
+tolled and announced the procession had begun. We almost broke our necks
+in our hurry to get a peep, and we did arrive at a loop-hole in time to
+see the whole mass of priests and procession in slow motion down the
+great aisle and to hear their chant. It was very fine indeed, tho' to
+our heretical feelings the interest lies as much in the romantic
+associations connected with all the Roman Catholic ceremonies as in
+anything better. It is not in human nature not to feel more devotion in
+the imposing solemnity of such a church. The "Descents from the Cross"
+were just put up, and with the organ playing and mass going on, and the
+number of female figures with their black scarfs over their heads
+kneeling on chairs in different parts of the Cathedral, we saw them to
+greater advantage than surrounded by French bonnets and other pictures
+in the Louvre. They are quite different to any Rubens I ever saw before;
+the colouring so much deeper and the figures so superior.</p>
+
+<p>But no one should be allowed to enter that Cathedral without the black
+scarf, which makes a young face look pretty and an old one picturesque;
+and there were several common people gazing at the picture with as much
+admiration and adoration<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_275" id="page_275">[275]</a></span> painted on their faces as there probably was
+on ours.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image274" id="image274"></a>
+<a href="images/274.jpg">
+<img src="images/274_th.jpg" width="650" height="485" alt="Church of St. Nicholas, Ghent June 16, 1816.
+To face p. 274." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">Church of St. Nicholas, Ghent June 16, 1816.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 274.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Brussels there were more pictures from the Louvre, but the Brutes had
+packed up the Rubens without any covering or precaution whatever, and
+there they are with a hole thro' one, and the other covered with mildew
+and stains from rain and dirt. From Ghent we travelled in two cabriolets
+to Brussels, which were not quite so easy or pleasant as the Canal
+boats; but the accommodations as far as Brussels have been really
+<i>superbe</i>. I have longed for the papers or the carpets or the marble
+tables in every room we have been in; and I have learned to consider
+dinner as a matter of great curiosity and importance, and I cannot
+wonder that Englishmen are not proof against the temptations of living
+well and so cheap. Brussels is a nice place; there appear to be so many
+pleasant walks and rides in all directions. The country about is so
+pretty, and the town (with the exception of the steep hill which you
+must ascend to get to the best part of it) very cheerful and agreeable
+looking.... Every place swarms with English; we have met four times as
+many English carriages and travellers as we did on our road to London.</p>
+
+<p>Our weather has been very favourable. We had a cool day for walking
+about at Waterloo, and the next day a delightful bright sunshine to show
+off the Palace of Laeken to advantage. It is the place where Bonaparte
+intended to sleep on the 18th, and he fitted it up. It is three miles
+from Brussels,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_276" id="page_276">[276]</a></span> commanding a view of the whole country and surrounded by
+trees and pleasure-grounds in the English style. After looking at
+buildings and towns so much, it was an agreeable relief to admire shady
+walks and fine trees. We went to the Theatre, which was execrable, but
+at Ghent we were very much amused with some incomparable acting.</p>
+
+<p>We left Brussels yesterday morning in a Barouche and <i>three</i>, which is
+to take us to Paris. It holds us four in the inside and John on the box
+as nicely as we could wish and is perfectly easy. We suit each other as
+well in other respects as in the carriage. Donald is an excellent
+<i>compagnon de voyage</i>&mdash;full of liveliness, good humour, and curiosity,
+enjoying everything in the right way. He and Edward Leycester are my
+beaux, while E.S. does the business; which makes it much pleasanter to
+me than if I had only one gentleman with me. In short, we had not a
+difficulty till yesterday. We came by Waterloo again and picked up
+Lacoite to get what we could from him, and then to Charleroi, being told
+the road by Nivelles was impassable. The road to Charleroi was bad, and
+we did not arrive till 9, having had no eatable but biscuit and wine.
+Donald entered the hotel to enquire what we could have for dinner, and
+returned with the melancholy report that the woman had literally
+nothing, and did not know where any were to be procured, but that she
+would kill a hen and dress it if we liked! We sent Donald and Edward, as
+a forlorn hope, to see if there was another inn, and after a long
+search<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_277" id="page_277">[277]</a></span> they found one, whereupon the postillion found out that he had
+no drag-chain and could not properly descend the <i>montagne.</i> However,
+after some arguments, and my descent from the carriage, and Donald and
+John walking on each side the wheels with large stones ready to place
+before them in case they were disposed to run too fast, we arrived at
+the Inn at the foot of the Hill, from which issued an old woman who
+might have sat for Gil Blas' or Caleb Williams' old woman. When she
+heard where we were going, she shook her head and said she did not like
+to be <i>un oiseau de mauvais augure</i> but that the only road we could go
+was very nearly impassable. The people and the children in the street
+crowded round the carriage as if they had never seen one before, and, in
+short, we found that we had got into a <i>cul-de-sac.</i></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image276" id="image276"></a>
+<a href="images/276.jpg">
+<img src="images/276_th.jpg" width="650" height="417" alt="PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO.
+To face page 278." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 276.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>However, our adventures for the night finished by the old woman giving
+us so good a dinner and so many good stories of herself and the
+Cossacks, that we did not regret having been round, especially now when
+we are safely landed at Valenciennes without either carriage or bones
+broke&mdash;over certainly the very worst road I ever saw.</p>
+
+<p>We shall be at Paris on Monday or Tuesday, I think. Adieu.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Rianette Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p>...Before leaving Brussels for ever, it is impossible not to speak about
+the dogs. What would<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_278" id="page_278">[278]</a></span> you say, what would you think, and how would you
+laugh at some of these wondrous equipages. You meet them in all
+directions carrying every species of load. They were only surpassed by
+one vehicle we met on the road drawn by nine, and as luck would have it,
+just as we passed, the five leaders fell to fighting and ran their
+carriage over some high stones. Then the women within began to scream
+and the driver without began to whip, which caused an inevitable scene
+of bustle and perplexity....</p>
+
+<p>At Quiverain we passed the line of separation between France and Belgium
+and were subjected to a close inspection by the Custom House Officers,
+during which some Bandana handkerchiefs of Edward's were for a time in
+great jeopardy, but they were finally returned and "nous voil�" in "la
+belle France." The change was perceptible in more ways than one. Before
+we had travelled a mile we beheld a proof of this subjugated state in
+the person of a Cossack "en plein costume," with two narrow, horizontal
+eyes placed at the top of his forehead, bespeaking his Tartar origin.
+Upon a log of timber twenty more were sitting smoking. The Russian
+headquarters are at Maubeuge, but the Cossacks are scattered all over
+the frontier villages and are seen everywhere. We fell in with at least
+a hundred. They are very quiet and much liked by the people. The Duke of
+Wellington, when returning to Valenciennes a few days ago from Maubeuge,
+was escorted by a party of these gipsy guards.</p>
+
+<p>On approaching Valenciennes other tokens of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_279" id="page_279">[279]</a></span> conquest appeared. A
+clean-looking inn, with a smart garden in Islington style, presented
+itself, bearing a sign with an English name containing the additional
+intelligence that London Porter and Rum, Gin, and Brandy were all there,
+and to be had.</p>
+
+<p>Over many a window we saw a good John Bull board with "Spirituous
+Liquors Sold Here" inscribed thereon in broad British characters, unlike
+the "Spiritual Lickers" in the miserable letters upon the signboards at
+Ostend. As to Valenciennes, nothing was French but the houses and Inns.
+The visible population were red-coated soldiers, and it was impossible
+not to fancy that our journey was a dream, and that we had in fact
+re-opened our eyes in England.</p>
+
+<p>Of hornworks, demi-lunes, and ravelines I shall speak to your Papa when
+I fight my battle once again in the Armchair at the Park or at
+Winnington; enough for you to know that we all breakfasted with Sir
+Thomas Brisbane, a very superior man and a great astronomer, and tho'
+brave as a lion, seems to prefer looking at la Pleine lune in the
+heavens than the host of demi-lunes with which he is surrounded in his
+present quarters. At Cambray Sir George Scovell<a name="FNanchor_116_116" id="FNanchor_116_116"></a><a href="#Footnote_116_116" class="fnanchor">[116]</a> had most kindly
+secured us lodgings at Sir Lowry Cole's<a name="FNanchor_117_117" id="FNanchor_117_117"></a><a href="#Footnote_117_117" class="fnanchor">[117]</a> house,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_280" id="page_280">[280]</a></span> which we had all to
+ourselves, as the General was in England. Where the French people live
+it is not easy to guess, for all the best houses are taken by British
+Officers. They receive a billet which entitles them to certain rooms,
+and generally they induce the possessor to decamp altogether by giving
+him a small rent for the remainder. We found Colonel Egerton, who
+married a Miss Tomkinson, in the garrison. We dined with them and the
+Scovell, and were received with the utmost kindness and attention by
+all. Colonel Prince and Colonel Abercromby (you know both, I believe)
+also dined there two days we remained.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday there was a Procession. The most curious circumstance was that
+a troop of British cavalry attended to clear the way and do the honours,
+for the National Guard had been disarmed three days before in
+consequence of an order from the Duke of Wellington (nobody knows why).
+They gave up their arms without a murmur; some few, I believe, expressed
+by a "Bah!" and a shrug of the shoulders that it was not quite agreeable
+to their feelings, but "voil� tout." "I say, Jack," said a Grenadier of
+the Guards to his Companion, by whom I was standing as the procession
+came out of the Church, "who is that fellow with a gold coat and
+gridiron?" "Why, that's St. Lawrence," and so it was.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_281" id="page_281">[281]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>St. Lawrence led the way, followed by a brass St. Andrew as stiff as a
+poker and as much resembling St. Andrew as I conceive; but my companion
+the Grenadier thought differently, for he pronounced him to be a Chef
+d'&#339;uvre. "Well now, Jack, that's quite natural." ...</p>
+
+<p>I must hurry you on to Compi�gne, merely saying that we traversed a
+country fringed with immense forests in which wolves are born and live
+and die without much interruption, tho' we were told at one of the Inns
+that a peasant had, a day or two before, captured seven juvenile
+individuals of the species and carried them off uneaten by their
+disconsolate parents.</p>
+
+<p>Our chief reason for visiting Compi�gne was that we might see a Palace
+fitted up for Marie Louise by Bonaparte in a style of splendour
+surpassing, in my opinion, any Palace I have seen in France.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris,</span> <i>June 28, 1816</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>And here I am&mdash;and what shall I tell you first? And how shall I find
+time to tell you anything in the wandering Arab kind of life we are
+leading? It is very new and very amusing and I enjoy it very much, but I
+enjoy still more the thoughts of how much I shall enjoy my own quiet
+home and children again when I get to them.</p>
+
+<p>We arrived on Tuesday evening, and in half an hour I was in the Palais
+Royal in the Caf� de Mille Colonnes, and at night the brilliancy of the
+Lamps<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_282" id="page_282">[282]</a></span> and Mirrors, glittering in every direction in every alley,
+displayed this new scene to me in the newest colours; and it was very
+like walking in a new world....</p>
+
+<p>The F�tes for the marriage of the Due de Berri are unfortunately all
+over. Except the entertainments at the Court itself, a French party is a
+thing unheard of, and the only gaieties have been English parties to
+which some few French come when they are invited. The only gentlemen's
+carriages I have seen in the streets are English, and as to French
+gentlemen or ladies, according to the most diligent enquiries by eyes
+and tongue, the race has almost disappeared....</p>
+
+<p>If you admire Buonaparte and despise the Bourbons in Cheshire, what
+would you in Paris? where the regular answer to everything you admire is
+that it was done by Buonaparte&mdash;to everything that you object to, that
+it is by order of the Bourbons. In the Library of the H�pital des
+Invalides to-day, collected by order of Buonaparte for the use of the
+soldiers, there was a man pulling down all the books and stamping over
+the N's and eagles on the title-page with blue ink, which, if it did not
+make a plain L, at least blotted out the N; but I should apprehend that
+every one who saw the blot would think more of the vain endeavour of
+Louis to take his place than if the N had been left.</p>
+
+<p>...I have told you nothing about Valenciennes and how we breakfasted
+with two odd characters<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_283" id="page_283">[283]</a></span> to come together in one, an Astronomer and a
+Soldier, viz., Sir Thomas Brisbane, who enlivens his quarters wherever
+he goes by erecting an observatory immediately, and studying hard as any
+Cambridge mathematician every hour that he is not on military duty. His
+officers seem to have partaken in some degree of the spirit of their
+General, and to have made use of their position at Valenciennes to make
+themselves perfectly acquainted with all Marlborough's campaign, and
+they appeared to have as much interest in tracing all his sieges and
+breaches and batteries as their General in making his observations on
+the sun and the stars.... The Scovells were delighted to see us at
+Cambray; put us into Sir Lowry Cole's quarters, where we had a house and
+gardens all to ourselves. Lord Wellington had been at Cambray a
+fortnight before, and was all affability, good humour, and gaiety....
+Sir Geo. Scovell gave many interesting details of his coolness,
+quickness, decision, and undaunted spirit.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to Bella Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Paris</span>, <i>July 9, 1816</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>It is absolutely necessary that a word or two should be said upon the
+palace at Compi�gne, which was fitted up about seven years ago by
+Napoleon for Marie Louise. Having seen most of his Imperial abodes, I am
+inclined to give the preference, as far as internal decoration extends,
+to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_284" id="page_284">[284]</a></span> Compi�gne. Gold, silver, mirrors, tapestry all hold their court
+here. The bath is a perfect specimen of French luxury and magnificence.
+It fills a recess in a moderately-sized room almost entirely panelled
+with the finest sheets of plate glass; and the ball room is so
+exquisitely beautiful that to see its golden walls and ceilings lighted
+up with splendid chandeliers, and its floors graced with dancers, plumed
+and jewelled, I would take the trouble of attending as your Chaperon
+from Alderley whenever the Bourbons send you an invitation.</p>
+
+<p>The gardens are like all other French pleasure grounds, formal and
+comfortless, but there is one part you would all enjoy. When Buonaparte
+first carried Marie Louise to Compi�gne she expressed much satisfaction,
+but remarked that it was deficient in a Berceau; it could not stand in
+competition with her favourite palace of Sch�nbrunn. Now, a berceau is a
+wide walk covered with trellis work and flowers. She left Compi�gne. In
+six weeks Napoleon begged her to pay another visit. She did so, and
+found a berceau wide enough for two carriages to go abreast and above
+two miles in length, extending from the gardens to the forest of
+Compi�gne, completely finished. May you all be espoused to husbands who
+will execute all your whims and fancies with equal rapidity and good
+taste! In your berceau I will walk; but if you are destined to reside in
+golden palaces, you must expect little of Uncle's company.</p>
+
+<p>Having travelled thus far, attend us to Paris and<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_285" id="page_285">[285]</a></span> imagine yourself
+seated in a velvet chair in the Hotel de Bretagne, Rue de Richelieu,
+that is to say, when translated into London terms, conceive yourself
+seated in one of the Hotels in or near Covent Gardens, close to Theatre
+and shops and all that a stranger wishes to be near for a week when the
+sole purpose of his visit is seeing and hearing. We are within 20 yards
+(but if measured by the mud and filth to be traversed in the march I
+should call it a mile) of the Palais Royal, the fairy land of Paris, and
+Paradise of vice, and the centre of attraction to every stranger. Here
+we breakfast in Coffee-houses, of which no idea can be formed by those
+who only associate the name of Coffee-house with certain subdivided,
+gloomy apartments in England, where steaks and <i>Morning Chronicles</i>
+reign with divided sway, and where the silence is seldom interrupted but
+by queries as to the price of stocks or "Here, Waiter, another bottle of
+Port."</p>
+
+<p>We dine at Restaurateurs, choosing unknown dishes out of five
+closely-printed columns of <i>fricandeaus</i> and <i>� la financi�res</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Before I proceed let me inform you of some simple matters of fact which
+I may forget if delayed. Such as that we found the Sothebys and Murrays,
+and Leghs of High Legh, and Wilbraham of Delamere Lodge. With the former
+we have made several joint excursions and contrived to meet at dinner.
+Mr. Sotheby is in his element, bustles everywhere, looks the vignette of
+happiness, exclaims "Good!" upon all occasions, from the arrange<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_286" id="page_286">[286]</a></span>ment of
+the Skulls in the Catacombs to the dressing of a <i>vol au vent</i>. In
+short, they are all as delighted as myself, and that is saying a good
+deal.</p>
+
+<p>Pardon this digression. Again to the point&mdash;to Paris. Where shall I
+begin? Let us take the theatres. We saw Talma last night, and the
+impression is strong, therefore he shall appear first on the list.</p>
+
+<p>The play was "Manlius," a tragedy in many respects like our "Venice
+Preserved." The House was crowded to excess, especially the pit, which,
+as in England, is the focus of criticisms and vent for public opinion.</p>
+
+<p>When a Tragedy is acted no Music whatever is allowed, not a fiddle
+prefaced the performance; but at seven o'clock the curtain slowly rose,
+and amidst the thunder of applause, succeeded by a breathless silence,
+Talma stepped forth in the Roman toga of Manlius. His figure is bad,
+short, and rather clumsy, his countenance deficient in dignity and
+natural expression, but with all these deductions he shines like a
+meteor when compared with Kemble. He is body and soul, finger and thumb,
+head and foot, involved in his character; and so, say you, is Miss
+O'Neil, but Talma and Miss O'Neil are different and distant as the
+poles. She is nature, he is art, but it is the perfection of art, and so
+splendid a specimen well deserves the approbation he so profusely
+receives.</p>
+
+<p>The curtain is not let down between the acts, and the interval does not
+exceed two or three minutes,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_287" id="page_287">[287]</a></span> so that your attention is never
+interrupted. The scene closed as it commenced&mdash;with that peculiar hurra
+of the French, expressive of their highest excitement. It is the same
+with which they make their charge in battle, and proportioned to numbers
+it could not have been more vehement at the victories of Austerlitz and
+Jena than it was on the reappearance of Talma; and not satisfied with
+this, they insisted on his coming forth again. At length, amidst hurras
+and cries of "Talma! Talma!" the curtain was closed up, and my last
+impression rendered unfavourable by a vulgar, graceless figure in
+nankeen breeches and top-boots hurrying in from a side scene, dropping a
+swing bow in the centre of the stage, and then hurrying out again.</p>
+
+<p>Theatres are to Frenchmen what flowers are to bees: they live <i>in</i> them
+and <i>upon</i> them, and the sacrifice of liberty appears to be a tribute
+most willingly paid for the gratification they receive; for, to be sure,
+never can there exist a more despotic, arbitrary government than that of
+a French theatre. A soldier stands by from the moment you quit your
+carriage till you get into it; you are allowed no will of your own; if
+you wish to give directions to your servant, "Vite! Vite!" cries a
+whiskered sentry. Are you looking through the windows of the lobbies
+into the boxes for your party, you are ordered off by a gendarme. I saw
+one gentleman-like-looking man remonstrating; in a trice he was in
+durance vile. A Frenchman at his play must sit, stand, move, think,<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_288" id="page_288">[288]</a></span> and
+speak as if he were on drill, and yet he endures the intolerance for
+doubtful benefits derived from this rigid regularity.</p>
+
+<p>In this play of "Manlius" were many passages highly applicable to
+Buonaparte, and Talma, who is supposed to be (<i>avec raison</i>) a secret
+partisan, gave them their full effect, but the listening vassals struck
+no octaves to his vibration. A few nights before we were at the Play in
+which were allusions to the Bourbons, and couplets without end of the
+most fulsome, disgusting compliments to the Duc de Berri, &amp;c. These
+(shame upon the trifling, vacillating, mutable crew!) were received with
+loud applause by the majority of the pit. I did observe, however, that
+in that pit did sit a frowning, solemn, silent nucleus, but a nucleus of
+this description can never be large; a few Messieurs at 3 francs <i>par
+jour</i> would soon, when dispersed amongst them, like grains of pepper in
+tasteless soup, diffuse a tone of palatibility over the whole and render
+it more agreeable to the taste of a Bourbon.</p>
+
+<p><i>� propos</i>, we have seen the Bourbons. The King is a round, fat man, so
+fat that in their pictures they dare not give him the proper "<i>contour</i>"
+lest the police should suspect them of wishing to ridicule; but his face
+is mild and benevolent, and I verily believe his face to be a just
+reflection of his heart. Then comes Monsieur,<a name="FNanchor_118_118" id="FNanchor_118_118"></a><a href="#Footnote_118_118" class="fnanchor">[118]</a> a man with more
+expression, but I did not see enough to form any opinion of my own, and
+I never heard any very <span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_289" id="page_289">[289]</a></span>decisive account from any one else. Then comes
+the Duchesse d'Angoul�me.<a name="FNanchor_119_119" id="FNanchor_119_119"></a><a href="#Footnote_119_119" class="fnanchor">[119]</a> There is no milk and water there. What
+she really is I may not be able to detect, but I will forfeit my little
+finger if there is not something passing strange within her. She is
+called a Bigot and a Devotee; she has seen and felt enough, and more
+than enough, to make a stronger mind than hers either the one or the
+other, and I will excuse her if she is both. She is thin and genteel,
+grave and dignified; she puts her fan to her underlip as Napoleon would
+put his finger to his forehead, or his hand into his bosom. She stood
+up, she sat down, she knelt, when others stood or sat or knelt, but I
+question whether if she had been alone she would have done all according
+to bell and candle, rule or regulation.</p>
+
+<p>Then comes the Duchesse de Berri,<a name="FNanchor_120_120" id="FNanchor_120_120"></a><a href="#Footnote_120_120" class="fnanchor">[120]</a> a young, pretty thing, a sort of
+royal kitten; and then comes her husband, the Duc de Berri, a short,
+vulgar-looking, anything but a kitten he is&mdash;but <i>arr�te toi</i>. I am in
+the land of vigilance, and already my pen trembles, for there are
+gendarmes in abundance in the streets, and Messieurs Bruce and Co. in La
+Force, and I do not wish to join their party. In England I may abuse our
+Prince Regent and call him fat, dissipated, and extravagant, but in
+France I dare not say "BO to a goose!" So, Je vous salue, M. le Duc de
+Berri.</p>
+
+<p><i>� propos</i> of the police. At the marriage of the above much honoured and
+respected Duc the illumiations<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_290" id="page_290">[290]</a></span> were general. Murray's landlord was
+setting out his tallow candles, when Murray, guessing from certain
+innuendoes and shrugs (for before us English they are not much afraid of
+shrugging the shoulders or inventing an occasional "Bah!") that he would
+have been to the full as pleased if he had been lighting his candles
+upon the return of Napoleon, asked him, "Mais pourquoi faites vous cela?
+I suppose you may do as you like?" "Comment donc!" replied the
+astonished Frenchman; "do as I like! If I did not light my candles with
+all diligence, I should be called upon to-morrow by the police to pay a
+forfeit for not rejoicing."</p>
+
+<p>With all this I think on the whole the Bourbons are popular; people are
+accustomed to being bullied out of their opinions and use of their
+tongues, and they are so sick of war, with all its inconveniences and
+privations, that they begin to prefer inglorious repose. English money
+is very much approved of here, but if it could be procured without the
+personal attendance of the owners, I feel quite confident the French
+would prefer it.</p>
+
+<p>We are not popular. I suppose the sight of us must be grating to the
+feelings. We are like a blight on an apple-tree; we curl up their
+leaves, and they writhe under our pressure.</p>
+
+<p>The constant song of our drunken soldiers on the Boulevards commenced
+with&mdash;</p>
+
+<table summary="poem">
+<tr><td>
+<span style="margin-left: 2em;">"Louis Dixhuite, Louis dixhuite,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 2.5em;">We have licked all your armies and sunk all your fleet."</span><br />
+</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_291" id="page_291">[291]</a></span>Luckily the words are not intelligible to the gaping Parisians, who
+generally, upon hearing the "Louis Dixhuite," took for granted the song
+was an ode in honour of the Bourbons, and grinned approbation. It is
+quite ridiculous, Paris cannot know itself. Where are the French?
+Nowhere. All is English; English carriages fill the streets, no other
+genteel Equipages are to be seen. At the Play Boxes are all English. At
+the Hotels, Restaurations&mdash;in short, everywhere&mdash;John Bull stalks
+incorporate. I see an Englishman with his little red book, the Paris
+guide, in one hand and map in the other, with a parcel of ragged boys at
+his heels pestering him for money. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who am ready
+to hold your stick. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who will call your coach.</p>
+
+<p>About the Thuilleries, indeed, and here and there, a few "bien poudr�d"
+little old men, "des bons Papas du Temps pass�," may be seen dry as
+Mummies and as shrivelled, with their ribbons and Croix St. Louis,
+tottering about. They are good, staunch Bourbons, ready, I daresay, to
+take the field "en voiture" for once, when taunted by the Imperial
+officers for being too old and decrepid to lead troops; an honest
+emigrant Marquis replied that he did not see why he should not command a
+regiment and lead it on "dans son Cabriolet."</p>
+
+<p>We have been unfortunate in not arriving soon enough to be present at
+the Duke of Wellington's Balls. At the last a curious circumstance took
+place. (You may rely upon it's being true.) Word<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_292" id="page_292">[292]</a></span> was brought to him
+that the house was in danger from fire. He went down, and in a sort of
+subterranean room some cartridges were discovered close to a lamp
+containing a great quantity of oil, and it was evident they had been
+placed there with design. The first report was that barrels of gunpowder
+had been found, and strange associations were whispered as to Guy Fawkes
+and Louis XVIII. being one and the same; but the powder was not
+sufficient to do any great mischief, and the general idea is that had it
+exploded, confusion would have ensued, the company would have been
+alarmed, the ladies would have screamed and fled to the door and street,
+where parties were in full readiness and expectations of Diamonds,
+&amp;c....</p>
+
+<p>We stay over Monday, for there is a grand Review on the Boulevards. We
+have seen Cuirassiers and Lancers shining in the sun and fluttering
+their little banner in the air. The Bourbons, who are determined to root
+out every vestige of the past, are now stripping the Troops of the
+Uniform which remind the wearers of battles fought and cities won, and
+re-clothing them in the white dress of the "ancien R�gime," which is
+wretchedly ugly. They know best what they are about, and they certainly
+have a people to deal with unlike the rest of the world, but were I a
+Bourbon, I should be cautious how I proceeded in demolishing everything
+which reminded the people of their recent glory. Luckily the column on
+the Place Vend�me<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_293" id="page_293">[293]</a></span> has as yet escaped the Goths, and its bronze basso
+reliefs are still the pride of Paris.</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<i>July 13, 1816.</i><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Days in Paris are like lumps of barley sugar, sweet to the taste and
+melting rapidly away.... We have now seen theatres, shows, gardens,
+museums, palaces, and prisons. Aye, Louisa, we have been immured within
+the walls of La Force, and that from inclination! not necessity.</p>
+
+<p>We procured an order to see Bruce,<a name="FNanchor_121_121" id="FNanchor_121_121"></a><a href="#Footnote_121_121" class="fnanchor">[121]</a> and after some shuttlecock sort
+of work, sending and being sent from office to office and Pr�fet to
+Pr�fet, at length we received our order of admission.</p>
+
+<p>In this order our persons are described; the man put me down "sourcils
+gris." "Mais, Monsieur," said I, "they will never admit me with that
+account." He looked at me again, "Ah! vos cheveux sont gris, mais pour
+les sourcils, non pas, vous avez raison," and altering them to "noirs,"
+he sent me about my business.</p>
+
+<p>Bar and bolt were opened, and at length we found ourselves in the
+presence of these popular prisoners&mdash;Popular, at least, amongst the
+female part of the world. I have reason to believe that<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_294" id="page_294">[294]</a></span> a few of the
+Miss Stanleys had formed a romantic attachment for Michael Bruce, and
+there are few of our adventures which would, I think, have given you
+more pleasure than this visit. Your heart would have been torn from its
+little resting-place and been imprisoned for ever. Michael Bruce! such
+an eye! such a figure! such a countenance! such a voice! and so much
+sense and elegance of manner, and then so interesting! There he sat in a
+small, wretched room, dirty and felonious, with two little windows, one
+looking into a court where a parcel of ragged prisoners were playing at
+fives, the other into a sort of garden where others were loitering away
+their listless vacuity of time.</p>
+
+<p>I will not tell you what he said, for it would but inflame a wound which
+I cannot heal, and because part of his conversation was secret, <i>i.e.</i>,
+of a very interesting and curious nature which I cannot write and must
+not speak of. "Oh! dear Uncle, why won't you tell? a secret from Michael
+Bruce in the prison of La Force!"</p>
+
+<p>No, Louisa, I dare not speak of it to the winds. Captain Hutchinson was
+his companion, Sir Robert Wilson is in another room. The Captain has
+nothing very interesting in his manner or appearance. He is very plain,
+very positive, and very angry. Well he may be. So would you if, like
+him, you had been immured in a room about eight feet by twelve, in which
+you were forced to eat, sleep, and reside for three months. Their
+penance closes on the 24th, when Michael Bruce returns<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_295" id="page_295">[295]</a></span> to London. I
+hope you are not going there this year.</p>
+
+<p>From such a subject as Michael Bruce it will not do to descend to any of
+the trifling fopperies of Paris.</p>
+
+<p>Let me, then, give you a short account of our visit to Fountain
+Elephant, which if ever finished, with its concomitant streets, &amp;c.,
+will be an 8th wonder of the world. Its History is this: On the Site of
+the Bastille (of which not a vestige remains) Buonaparte thought he
+would erect a fountain, and looking at the Plans of Paris, he conceived
+the splendid idea of knocking down all the houses between the
+Thuilleries and this Fountain and forming one wide, straight street, so
+that from the Palace of the Thuilleries he might see whatever object he
+might be pleased to place at the extremity. This street is actually
+begun; when executed, which it never will be, there will be an avenue,
+partly houses, partly trees, from Barri�re d'�toile to the Fountain, at
+least six miles. Having got this Fountain in his head, he sent for De
+Non,<a name="FNanchor_122_122" id="FNanchor_122_122"></a><a href="#Footnote_122_122" class="fnanchor">[122]</a> who superintended all his works, and said, "De Non, I must
+have a fountain, and the fountain shall be a beast." So De Non set his
+wits to work, and talked of Lions and Tigers, &amp;c., when Buonaparte<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_296" id="page_296">[296]</a></span>
+fixed upon an Elephant, with a Castle upon his back, and an Elephant
+there is. At present they have merely a model of plaister upon which the
+bronze coating is to be wrought, for the whole is to be in bronze with
+gilt trappings. He is to stand upon an elevated pedestal, which is
+already completed. The height will be about 60 feet, nearly as high as
+Alderley Steeple. The castle will hold water; the inside is to be a
+room, and the staircase is to be in one of the legs. The porter who
+showed it was exceedingly proud of the performance, and when I expressed
+my astonishment at Buonaparte's numerous plans and the difficulty he
+must have been at to procure money, looking cautiously about him, he
+said, "Oh, mais il avoit le don d'un Dieu," and then grasping my arm
+with one hand and tapping me on the shoulder with the other, and again
+looking round to see if then the coast was clear, he added, "Mais il n'y
+est plus, ah, vous comprenez cela n'est-ce pas," and then casting a look
+at his Elephant he concluded with a sigh and a mutter, "Superbe, ah,
+pardi, que c'est superbe!"</p>
+
+<p>Kitty has been dressing herself <i>� la Fran�aise</i>, and we have been
+purchasing a large box of flowers, which we hope to show you in England,
+if the Custom House officers will allow us to pay the duties, but we
+hear most alarming accounts of their ferocity and rapacity. They will
+soon, it is said, seize the very clothes you have on, if of French
+manufacture; if so, adieu to three pairs of black silk stockings and as
+many pocket handkerchiefs, to<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_297" id="page_297">[297]</a></span> say nothing of a perfect pet of an ivory
+dog which I intend to present to your Mama, and to say nothing of five
+perfect pets for Maria and you four eldest girls of the family of
+Harlequin and Punch, to be worn on your necklaces during the happy
+weeks. They are of mother of pearl about an inch high, the most comical
+fellows I ever beheld. It is necessary that I should tell you of the
+presents, because if they are seized, you know I shall still be entitled
+to the merit of selecting them. We have bought a few books. A thick
+octavo is here worth about four or five shillings, and the duty is, we
+understand, about one shilling more. One is a life of the Duke of
+Marlborough. Buonaparte said it was a reflection upon England not to
+have a life of her greatest Hero, and therefore he would be his
+biographer; accordingly he set his men to work and collected the
+materials. Report speaks favourably of it, but I have been so busied in
+looking and walking about that I shall not be surprised if I find that I
+have almost forgotten to read upon my return!</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">Tuesday Morning</span>, <i>July 13th</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>We are in Paris still, and do not depart till to-morrow, dedicating this
+day in company with the Murrays to St. Denis and Malmaison, and then I
+think we shall have seen everything worth seeing in or near this queer
+metropolis. One day last week<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_298" id="page_298">[298]</a></span> we went to our old friend, L'abb�
+Sicard,<a name="FNanchor_123_123" id="FNanchor_123_123"></a><a href="#Footnote_123_123" class="fnanchor">[123]</a> and attended a lecture in which about 20 of his young
+scholars exhibited their powers. The poor Abb� was, as usual, dreadfully
+prolix, and occupied an hour in words which might have been condensed
+within the compass of a Minute, and poor Massuer yawned and shut his
+eyes ever and anon. Clair was not there, and as we were under the
+necessity of going away before the Lecture was closed, we could not
+renew our acquaintance. Since last year he has taught his pupils to
+speak, and two dumb boys talked to each other with great success. I will
+show you the mode when we meet, but as you are not dumb it will be a
+mere gratification of Curiosity. Our Assignation which called us from
+the Lecture was to meet the Sothebys and Murrays and many others at the
+Buvin d'Enfer, near which is the descent to the Catacombs, where upwards
+of 3 million of Skulls are arranged in tasty grimaces thro' Streets of
+Bones, but my Sketch Book has long given an idea of these ossifatory
+Exhibitions. Only think, a cousin of Donald's and a very great friend of
+mine, a Capt. McDonald, whom you would all be in love with, he is so
+handsome and interesting, was shut up there a short time ago by
+accident, and if the Keeper had not luckily recollected the number of
+persons who descended and discovered one was missing, he would very soon
+have joined the bone party.<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_299" id="page_299">[299]</a></span> There is another Cimeti�re called that of
+P�re la Chaise, of a very different description, and infinitely more
+interesting. It is the grand burial-place of Paris; all who choose may
+purchase little plots of ground, from a square foot to an acre, for the
+deposition of themselves and their families. Its extent is about 84
+French acres, and upon no spot in the world is the French character so
+perfectly portrayed. Each individual encloses his plot and ornaments it
+as he chooses, and the variety is quite astonishing. It appears like a
+large Shop full of toys, work-baskets, Columns, little Cottages,
+pyramids, mounts&mdash;in short, what is there in the form of a Monument
+which may not there be found? A pert little Column with a fanciful top,
+crowned by a smart wire basket filled with roses, marked the grave, I
+concluded, of some beautiful young girl of 15 or 16. Lo and behold! it
+was placed there to commemorate "un ancien Magistrat de France," aged
+62. The most interesting are Ney's and Lab�doy�re's,<a name="FNanchor_124_124" id="FNanchor_124_124"></a><a href="#Footnote_124_124" class="fnanchor">[124]</a> the former, a
+solid tomb of marble, simply tells that Marshal Ney, Prince of La
+Moskowa, is below. Both were rather profusely decorated with wreaths of
+flowers, it being the custom for the friends of the deceased to strew
+from time to time the graves with flowers, or decorate them with
+garlands. Soldiers have been often seen weeping over these graves, and
+it is by them these wreaths were placed. Ney's had just received its
+tribute of a beautiful garland of blue cornflowers: and the other a<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_300" id="page_300">[300]</a></span>
+Chaplet of Honeysuckle. By both graves were weeping willows. Mr.
+Sotheby's friend, the poet Delille,<a name="FNanchor_125_125" id="FNanchor_125_125"></a><a href="#Footnote_125_125" class="fnanchor">[125]</a> sleeps beneath a cumbrous mass
+of marble, within which his wife immerses herself once a week, to
+manifest sorrow for one whose incessant tormentor I am told she was
+during his life. The inscriptions were for the most part commonplace. I
+copied out a few of the best. I was sorry to observe not one in 20 had
+the slightest allusion to Religion. There was one offering which
+particularly attracted my attention and admiration. Over a simple mound,
+the resting-place of a little child, were scattered white flowers, and
+amongst them a bunch of cherries, evidently the tribute from some other
+little child who had thus offered up that which to him appeared most
+valuable. The exclusion of the selfish principle in this display of
+sentiment and feeling quite delighted me.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image300" id="image300"></a>
+<a href="images/300.jpg">
+<img src="images/300_th.jpg" width="650" height="374" alt="PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS.
+To face page 300." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 300.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The day after we visited the Louvre it was closed, and none have been
+admitted since. I believe they are scratching out some N's or Eagles. I
+should conceive these to be the last of their species, for the activity
+and extent of this effacement of emblems related to Napoleon is past all
+belief. In a picture of Boulogne in the Luxembourg, amongst the figures
+in the foreground was a little Buonaparte, about two inches high,
+reviewing some troops. They have actually changed his features and
+figure, and, if I recollect rightly, altered his cockade and Uniform....
+In the<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_301" id="page_301">[301]</a></span> Mus�e des Arts and M�tiers are some models of ships; even these
+were obliged to strike their Lilliputian tri-colours and hoist the white
+Ensign. And now Paris, fare thee well.... Thou art a mixture of strange
+ingredients. "Oh," said the Hairdresser who was cutting Kitty's hair
+yesterday, "had we your National spirit we should be a great people,
+mais c'est l'�goisme qui regne � Paris." Their manner is quite
+fascinating, so civil, so polished. The people are like the Town, and
+the Town is like a Frenchman's Chemise, a magnificent frill with fine
+lace and Embroidery, but the rest ragged. The frill of the Thuilleries
+and Champs Elys�es are perfect fairylands, the streets all that is
+execrable. No wonder the cleaners of boots and shoes are in a state of
+perpetual requisition. In one shop I saw elevated benches, on which sat
+many gentry with their feet upon a level with the cleaners' noses, where
+they sat like Statues, and I was actually induced to go back to satisfy
+myself that they were real men. English notices are frequent in the
+streets, some not over correct in style; for example, over a
+Hairdresser's in the Palais Royal&mdash;"The Cabinet for the cut of the
+hairs."</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley.</i></p>
+
+<p class="date">
+<span class="smcap">St. Germain</span>, <i>July 16, 1816</i>.<br />
+</p>
+
+<p>Surely you must have forgot what it is to be divided by land and sea
+from what you love, or when you were abroad you left nobody behind<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_302" id="page_302">[302]</a></span> whom
+you cared about, or you would not fancy that I should not find time or
+inclination to read as many trifles as you can find to send, or that
+they should not give me almost as much pleasure, and be read with as
+much interest, as if I were shut up in the next dungeon to Mr. Bruce at
+La Force.... While you were enjoying the view of Beeston Castle, we were
+eating strawberries and cream under the trees in the Jardin des Plantes
+on the only hot day we have had.... I am in no danger of forgetting you,
+and if I have not written oftener, it has only been because Edward got
+the start of me in beginning to write in detail, and he is so inimitable
+in description that I could not go over the same ground with him.... I
+do wish I could give you one of our day's amusement, and jump you over
+here in mind and body to leave all your cares behind you....</p>
+
+<p>At last we have bid goodbye to Paris, but every day seemed to bring
+something fresh to see, and we stayed two or three days longer than we
+intended yesterday to see St. Denis. It is not so fine as most of the
+churches we saw in Holland, but the historical interest is so great and
+so curious that I would not have missed seeing it for the world. Over
+the door all the guillotined figures of the Revolution; in the church
+the repairs which were begun by Buonaparte, now finishing by Louis;
+every stone and step you go marked by some association of one or other
+of these periods. As Buonaparte's own power increased, his respect for<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_303" id="page_303">[303]</a></span>
+crowned heads and authorities increased, I suppose, and so he had put up
+<i>Fleurs de Lys</i> himself for the Bourbons in one part of the church, and
+he had prepared a vault for himself, decorated above with bees and
+statues of the six Kings of France who had the title of Emperor. To this
+vault he had made two bronze doors with gold ornaments and gold lions'
+heads, one of which flew back with a spring, and discovered three
+keyholes, to which there were three golden keys. The Sacristy he filled
+with chef d'&#339;uvres of the best French artists, representing those parts
+of the History of France connected with St. Denis and with his own views
+of Empire.</p>
+
+<p>The beautiful white marble steps leading to the altar beneath which the
+seventh Emperor was to be laid were just finished when Louis XVIII. came
+to fill the tomb, which was just prepared, with the bones of Louis XVI.,
+to depose the Emperor, to complete the marble pavement, and to extend
+the <i>fleurs de lys</i> over the whole church.</p>
+
+<p>And upon the stone which now conceals the entrance to the vault the
+Duchesse d'Angoul�me always kneels at the grave of her father, for the
+fine bronze doors are deposed also, only, I believe, because they were
+placed there by Buonaparte, and now they have to get into the Vault by
+taking up the stone. We got into the carriage full of Buonaparte,
+returned to Paris, and then got out again with the Murrays at Malmaison.
+It is the only enviable French house I have seen, and deserves<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_304" id="page_304">[304]</a></span>
+everything Edward said about it, even without the statues and half the
+pictures which are taken away.</p>
+
+<p>We spent three or four hours in the Thuilleries Gardens on Sunday.
+Buonaparte must have thought of gilding the dome of the Invalides when
+he was walking in the Jardin des Thuilleries, it suits the whole thing
+so exactly. A French crowd is so gay with the women's shawls and flowers
+that they assimilate well with the real flowers, and are almost as great
+an ornament to the Garden. A shower came on just as we were standing
+near the Palace, and at that moment the guards took their posts as a
+signal the King was going to Mass, so Edward and I followed the crowd to
+the Salle des Mar�chaux (they would not admit Donald because he had
+gaiters, and Edward had luckily trowsers), and there we saw Louis XVIII.
+and the Duchesse d'Angoul�me and Monsieur much better than we had done
+the Sunday before, with all the trouble of getting a ticket for
+admission into the Chapel, and being squeezed to death into the bargain.
+His Majesty is more like a Turtle than anything else, and shows external
+evidence of his great affection for Turtle soup. His walk is quite
+curious. One of his most intimate friends says that in spite of his
+devotion <i>Le Roi est un peu philosophe</i>. We staid on Monday to see a
+review. Donald introduced us to a Mr. and Mrs. Boyd, who have lived in
+France the last 14 years, and have a terrace that overlooks the
+Boulevards, so there we sat very commodiously and saw the King and the
+Duchesses<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_305" id="page_305">[305]</a></span> de Berri and Angoul�me, in an open Cal�che, pass through the
+double row of troops which lined the Boulevards from one end to the
+other, and a beautiful sight it was. Mr. Boyd invited me to a party at
+his house in the country, and in the hopes of seeing that <i>rara avis</i>, a
+French lady or gentleman, I said yes. So I sent for a hairdresser, who
+came post haste, and amused me with his <i>politesse</i>, and Edward with his
+<i>politique</i>. I was quite sorry I could not have him again.</p>
+
+<p>We dined with the Murrays, and then went on to Mr. Boyd, where I found
+myself the only lady there dressed amongst about forty. That is to say,
+their heads and tails were all in morning costume and mine in
+evening....</p>
+
+<p>I must go back one more day, and tell you how I went to be described for
+a passport to La Force on Saturday, and how I thought Mr. Bruce more of
+a hero young man than any I have ever seen. I recollect seeing him
+before, and thinking him a coxcomb, but a few years have mellowed all
+that into a very fine young man.</p>
+
+<p>Making every allowance for seeing him in his dungeon in La Force, I
+think you would be delighted with his countenance. He spoke his
+sentiments with manly freedom, and yet with the liberality of one who
+thinks it possible a man may differ from him without being a fool, or a
+rascal. Lucy and Louisa would certainly have fallen in love with his
+fine Roman head, which his prison<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_306" id="page_306">[306]</a></span> costume of a great coat and no
+neckcloth showed to great advantage.</p>
+
+<p>And now, adieu Paris! At 2 o'clock on Wednesday a green coach, which
+none of you could see without ten minutes' laughing at least&mdash;three
+horses and a postillion! (what would I give just to drive up to
+Winnington with the whole equipage!)&mdash;carried us to Versailles, and
+there I longed for Louis XIV. as much as for Buonaparte at St. Cloud;
+for one cannot fancy any one living in those rooms or walking in those
+gardens without hoops and Henri quatre plumes. If one could but people
+them properly for a couple of hours, what a delightful recollection it
+would be! Versailles ought to be seen last. It is so magnificent that
+every other thing of the sort is quite lost in the comparison. I am glad
+I saw Paris and the Tuilleries and St. Cloud first. We saw the Palace,
+and then we dined, and then we set out for the Trianon, and then we met
+with a guide who entertained us so much as to put Louis XIV. and all his
+court out of my head. Buonaparte never went to Versailles but once to
+look at it, but at the Trianon he and Jos�phine lived, and it is
+impossible, in seeing those places, not to feel the principal interest
+to be in the inquiry&mdash;where he lived? where he sat? where he walked?
+where he slept?&mdash;so accordingly we asked our guide. "Monsieur, je ne
+connais point ce coquin l�" soon told us what we were to expect from
+him, but his silence and his loyalty, and the combat between his hatred
+of the English<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_307" id="page_307">[307]</a></span> and his hatred of Buonaparte was so amusing that we
+soon forgave him for not telling us anything about him. He said "Bony"
+was only "fit to be hanged." "Why did you not hang him, then?" He could
+only shrug his shoulders. "We should have hung him for you if he had
+come to England." "Ma foi! Monsieur, je crois que non." He told us the
+stories of the rooms and the pictures with all the vivacity and rapidity
+of a Frenchman, and with pretty little turns of wit.... Donald asked him
+if a cabinet in one of the rooms had not been given by the Empress of
+Russia to Buonaparte? He instantly seized him by the button with an air
+of triumph. "Tenez, Monsieur, quand l'Empereur de Russie �tait ici, il a
+vu ce Cabinet et a dit; otez cette Volaille l�" (pointing to the
+compartment in which the Imperial Eagles had been changed into Angels).
+"Je l'ai donn� aux Fran�ais, et lui&mdash;il n'�tait pas Fran�ais."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;">
+<a name="image306" id="image306"></a>
+<a href="images/306.jpg">
+<img src="images/306_th.jpg" width="650" height="337" alt="The Great Green Coach.
+To face p. 306." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">The Great Green Coach.
+<br /> <br /><span style="margin-left: -45%;">To face p. 306.</span></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In all the royal house the servants are equally impenetrable on the
+subject of Buonaparte. But sometimes it seems put on, sometimes they
+really do not know from having been only lately put there, but this man
+was a genuine Bourbonist and a genuine Frenchman.</p>
+
+<p>We just got to St. Germain in time to walk on the Terrace before evening
+closed in over the beautiful view. The Palace and the Town put me quite
+<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_308" id="page_308">[308]</a></span>in mind of the deserted court in the "Arabian Nights." ...</p>
+
+
+<p class="address"><i>Edward Stanley to his Nieces. Tuesday morning.</i></p>
+
+<p>I could fill another letter with the interesting things we saw yesterday
+at St. Denis and Malmaison, but we are off in an hour, and it is
+possible you may hear no more from these</p>
+
+<p class="yours"><span class="smcap">Happy Travellers</span>.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<a name="image308" id="image308"></a>
+<a href="images/308.jpg">
+<img src="images/308_th.jpg" width="500" height="326" alt="ALDERLEY RECTORY." title="" /></a>
+<span class="caption">ALDERLEY RECTORY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p><span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_309" id="page_309">[309]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr />
+
+<h3><a name="Index" id="Index"></a>Index</h3>
+
+<ul>
+<li>Abbeville, Louis XVIII. at, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Abercromby, Colonel, <a href="#page_280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>Aisne, river, <a href="#page_145">145-161</a></li>
+
+<li>Aix la Chapelle, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_183">183</a>, <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_194">194</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Albania</i>, ship at Antwerp, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Albinus, German anatomist, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Alderley, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_17">17-21</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>,
+<a href="#page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Alderley Church, <a href="#page_102">102</a></li>
+
+<li>Alderley Edge, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Alderley Park, <a href="#page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Alderley Rectory, <a href="#page_15">15-17</a></li>
+
+<li>Alessandria, Plain of Marengo, <a href="#page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Alexander" id="Alexander"></a>Alexander I., Emperor of Russia, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_82">82-85</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a>, <a href="#page_229">229</a>,
+<a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Algeciras Bay, <a href="#page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Alhama, Spain, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a></li>
+
+<li>Alhambra, The, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Alien Office, The, <a href="#page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Alkmaar, <a href="#page_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>"Allemagne," By Madame de Sta�l, <a href="#page_128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>Allied Sovereigns, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Allies, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_160">160-162</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Alps, <a href="#page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Ambassador, English, Sir Charles Stuart, <a href="#page_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Ambassador, Swedish, M. de Sta�l, <a href="#page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Ambolle, Baron d', at Fontainebleau, <a href="#page_153">153</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Ambuscade</i>, picture of capture of the frigate, <a href="#page_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Amiens, Peace of, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Amsterdam, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_222">222-224</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Andernach on the Rhine, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Angerstein Collection, <a href="#page_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Anglesey Society, <a href="#page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Anglesey, Lord, his leg buried at Waterloo, <a href="#page_261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Angoul�me, Duchesse d', <a href="#page_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li>Antiquiera, Spain, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a></li>
+
+<li>Antwerp, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_204">204</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Antwerp Gate, Bergen op Zoom, <a href="#page_214">214</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a></li>
+
+<li>Apreece, Mrs., afterwards Lady Davey, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Argonauta</i>, Spanish vessel, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Ashbourne, <a href="#page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Augereau, General, <a href="#page_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Austerlitz, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, 287<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_310" id="page_310">[310]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Austria, <a href="#page_179">179</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Austria, Emperor of, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Bacharach on the Rhine, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_184">184</a>, <a href="#page_185">185</a></li>
+
+<li>Banks, Sir Joseph, <a href="#page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Barcelona, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a>, <a href="#page_54">54</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Barclay de Tolly, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Baring, Major, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Barth�lemy, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Bastille, <a href="#page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>Batavia, <a href="#page_193">193</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Beauharnais" id="Beauharnais"></a>Beauharnais, Eug�ne, Viceroy of Italy, <a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Bees, Napoleon's, <a href="#page_150">150</a></li>
+
+<li>Beeston Castle, <a href="#page_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Belleville, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li>Belluno, Duc du, <i>see</i> <a href="#Victor">Victor</a></li>
+
+<li>Benedictines, head cook to convent of, <a href="#page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Beresford, Viscount, Marshal, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Bergen op Zoom, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_208">208-212</a></li>
+
+<li>Berghem, Dutch painter (1624-1683), <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Berri, Duc de, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li>Berri, Duchesse de, <a href="#page_289">289</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Berry au Bac, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Berthier" id="Berthier"></a>Berthier, Marshal, Prince de Wagram, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Bertrand, General, <a href="#page_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>Bessborough, Earl of, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Bessieres" id="Bessieres"></a>Bessi�res, Marshal, Duc d'Istria, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Beveland, South, <a href="#page_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Bidwell, <a href="#page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li>Bingen on the Rhine, <a href="#page_183">183</a></li>
+
+<li>"Birds, Familiar History of," by Bishop Stanley, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Bittern</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Bl�cher, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a>, <a href="#page_88">88</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Boher, French sculptor (d. 1825), <a href="#page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Bois de Boulogne, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Bolero, Spanish dance, <a href="#page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Bonn, music on the Rhine, <a href="#page_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>Boodle's Club, <a href="#page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Borneo Mission, <a href="#page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Borodino, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Boulogne, <a href="#page_107">107-252</a></li>
+
+<li>Bourbons, The, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a>, <a href="#page_288">288-292</a></li>
+
+<li>Boyd, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_304">304</a></li>
+
+<li>Brabant, <a href="#page_181">181</a></li>
+
+<li>Breda, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_217">217</a>, <a href="#page_218">218</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Brisbane, Sir Thomas, at Valenciennes, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Brise-Maison, General, <i>see</i> <a href="#Maison">Maison</a></li>
+
+<li>British character, <a href="#page_195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>British soldiers, <a href="#page_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Britomart</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Brock, Holland, <a href="#page_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li>Brooke, Sir James, English traveller, Rajah of Sarawack (
+1803-1868), <a href="#page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Bruce, Michael, the Englishman who helped Lavalette to escape, <a href="#page_293">293</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Bruges, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a></li>
+
+<li>Brussels, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_209">209</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Buiksloot, North Holland, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>B�low, Marshal, <a href="#page_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Buonaparte" id="Buonaparte"></a>Buonaparte, Napoleon, Emperor, <a href="#page_34">34</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>,
+<a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_118">118</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_138">138-140</a>, <a href="#page_148">148</a>, <a href="#page_152">152-154</a>, <a href="#page_162">162</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a>,
+<a href="#page_244">244</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>, <a href="#page_295">295</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_306">306-307</a></li>
+
+<li>Buonaparte family, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Buonaparte, Louis, King of Holland, <a href="#page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Buonaparte, Lucien, <a href="#page_83">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Burgundy, <a href="#page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>"Bustle's Banquet," by Rev. E. Stanley, 17<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_311" id="page_311">[311]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Buttereax, plains of, Lyons, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>"Butterfly's Ball," by Sir H. Roscoe, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Buvin d'Enfer, <a href="#page_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Byng's Brigade, <a href="#page_263">263</a></li>
+
+<li>Byron, Lord, <a href="#page_79">79</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Cadiz, <a href="#page_53">53</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Caf� des Mille Colonnes, Paris, <a href="#page_142">142</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>Calick, Russia, <a href="#page_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>"Calife Voleur, Le" Ballet, <a href="#page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Cambray, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Cambridge, <a href="#page_11">11</a>, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a></li>
+
+<li>Campo Formio, Treaty of (1797), <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Cannes, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Canova, <a href="#page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Canterbury, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Cardinals at Fontainebleau, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Carleton, Mr., <a href="#page_251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Carlton House, <a href="#page_83">83</a></li>
+
+<li>Carnival of Venice, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Caroline of Naples, <a href="#page_289">289</a></li>
+
+<li>Carousel, Place de, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Castlereagh, Lord, <a href="#page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Catacombs, Paris, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_286">286</a>, <a href="#page_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Catalonia, <a href="#page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Catherine, Grand-Duchess of Russia, <i>see</i> <a href="#Oldenburg">Oldenburg</a></li>
+
+<li>Ch�lons, <a href="#page_41">41-43</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Chamber of Representatives, <a href="#page_130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Chambord, Comte de, <a href="#page_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Champagne, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Champlain, Lake, <a href="#page_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Champs Elys�es, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_139">139</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>Charenton, near Paris, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Charlemont, Anne, Lady, daughter and heiress of William Bermingham, of
+Ross Hill, co. Galway (d. 1876), aged 95, <a href="#page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Charleroi, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Charles IV., King of Spain, <a href="#page_64">64</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Ch�teau Thierry, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_157">157</a></li>
+
+<li>Chatham, Earl of, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Chatillon, <a href="#page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Chavignon, near Laon, <a href="#page_161">161</a></li>
+
+<li>Chichester, Thomas, 2nd Earl of, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>"Childe Harold," <a href="#page_80">80</a></li>
+
+<li>Cholmondeley, Miss, <a href="#page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Churchill, Major, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Clancarty, Lord, Ambassador, <a href="#page_82">82</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Clarke" id="Clarke"></a>Clarke, Marshal, Duc de Feltre, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Clinton, Lady Louisa, daughter of Lord Sheffield, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_251">251</a></li>
+
+<li>Clinton, General Sir Henry, <a href="#page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Clinton, General Sir William, married Lady Louisa Holroyd, <a href="#page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Coblentz, <a href="#page_186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Cole, Sir Lowry, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Cologne, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a></li>
+
+<li>Colonne, Vend�me, <a href="#page_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Combermere, Lord, <a href="#page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Compi�gne, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>"Comte de Cely," <a href="#page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Conclave of St. Peter at Fontainebleau, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Congress of Vienna, <a href="#page_235">235</a></li>
+
+<li>Constant, Napoleon's valet, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Constantine, Grand Duke, <a href="#page_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Constantino, Grand Duchess, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Consul, The First, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a></li>
+
+<li>Cooke, Major-General, <a href="#page_210">210</a>, <a href="#page_211">211</a>, <a href="#page_214">214</a></li>
+
+<li>Coote, Sir Evelyn, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Corbeny, France, <a href="#page_163">163</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a></li>
+
+<li>"Corinne," by Mdme. de Sta�l, <a href="#page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Cork, Lady, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Cornegliano, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Moncey">Moncey</a></li>
+
+<li>Coronation, The, <a href="#page_165">165</a></li>
+
+<li>Corps L�gislatif, <a href="#page_129">129</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Corte, La, <a href="#page_260">260</a></li>
+
+<li>Cotton trade, Rouen, 28<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_312" id="page_312">[312]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Court dress necessary, <a href="#page_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Court etiquette, Buonaparte's tenacity as to, <a href="#page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Court Martial, Gibraltar, in 1802, <a href="#page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Craon or Craonne, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li>Craufurd, Donald, of Auchinanes, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>Croix, St. Louis, <a href="#page_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li>Cross, Mr. John, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Crosses, roadside, in Spain, signs of murders committed, <a href="#page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Curtis, Sir William, <a href="#page_88">88</a></li>
+
+<li>Cutts Inn, Wilmslow, hamlet near Alderley, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Dalmatie, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Soult">Soult</a></li>
+
+<li>D'Ang�ly, <i>see</i> <a href="#REGNAUD">R�gnaud</a></li>
+
+<li>Dantzig, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Lefebre">Lefebre</a></li>
+
+<li>Davenport, E. D., of Capesthorne, <a href="#page_163">163</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Davoust" id="Davoust"></a>Davoust, Marshal, Prince d'Eckm�hl, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Davy, Lady, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>Davy, Sir Humphrey, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a></li>
+
+<li>De Lille, poet, <a href="#page_300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Dendrich, boundary France and Austria, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Denia, Spain, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>De Non, French artist under Napoleon, <a href="#page_295">295</a>, <a href="#page_296">296</a></li>
+
+<li>Desaix, General, killed at Marengo (1800), <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Dijon, <a href="#page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>"Dinner of the Dogs," or "Bustle's Banquet," <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Directory, The, <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Doge of Genoa, <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Douglas, Hon. Frederick, interview with Napoleon, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li>Dover, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Dow, Gerard, Dutch painter, <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Dragoons at Rouen (1802), <a href="#page_30">30</a></li>
+
+<li>Dresden, Battle of (1813), <a href="#page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Duels between Russian and French officers, <a href="#page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Du Mare, French professor, <a href="#page_124">124</a></li>
+
+<li>Dum�ril, Andre, French physician, <a href="#page_124">124</a></li>
+
+<li>Dumolard, French politician, <a href="#page_130">130</a></li>
+
+<li>Du Pont, General, <a href="#page_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch ark, <a href="#page_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch carving, <a href="#page_205">205</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch cleanliness, <a href="#page_227">227</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch family, <a href="#page_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch guide, <a href="#page_230">230</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch impenetrability, <a href="#page_224">224</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch road, <a href="#page_209">209</a></li>
+
+<li>Dutch table d'h�te, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Dykes, marvellous, <a href="#page_228">228</a>, <a href="#page_229">229</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Eagle and Child, inn at Alderley, <a href="#page_272">272</a></li>
+
+<li>Eagles, Napoleon's, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_147">147</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a>, <a href="#page_307">307</a></li>
+
+<li>Eckm�hl, Prince d', <i>see</i> <a href="#Davoust">Davoust</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Ecole" id="Ecole"></a>Ecole Polytechnique, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Edridge, H., painter, <a href="#page_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Egerton, Colonel, <a href="#page_280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>Egerton, Mr., <a href="#page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Egypt, <a href="#page_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Ehrenbreitstein, <a href="#page_187">187</a></li>
+
+<li>Ehrenfels, Castle of, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Elba, <a href="#page_46">46</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Elephant, fountain, <a href="#page_295">295-296</a></li>
+
+<li>Embden, <a href="#page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Emigrants, French, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Emperor's abdication, <a href="#page_75">75</a></li>
+
+<li>Emperor Alexander, <i>see</i> <a href="#Alexander">Alexander</a></li>
+
+<li>Emperor of Austria, <a href="#page_135">135</a></li>
+
+<li>Emperor Napoleon, <i>see</i> <a href="#Buonaparte">Buonaparte</a></li>
+
+<li>Empress Jos�phine, <i>see</i> Jos�phine</li>
+
+<li>Empress Maria Louisa, <i>see</i> Maria Louisa</li>
+
+<li>Empress of Russia, <a href="#page_307">307</a></li>
+
+<li>Enghien, Duc d', <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_245">245</a></li>
+
+<li>Entomologist, 185<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_313" id="page_313">[313]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Entomology, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_124">124</a></li>
+
+<li>Ephemera, <a href="#page_186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Etruria, King of, <a href="#page_50">50</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Eug�ne Beauharnais, <i>see</i> <a href="#Beauharnais">Beauharnais</a></li>
+
+<li>Executions, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_44">44</a></li>
+
+<li>Ex-Imperial Guard, <a href="#page_148">148</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Fagan, Mr., <a href="#page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Fandangos, <a href="#page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Fanshawe, Catherine, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Felix Meritus, Dutch museum, <a href="#page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Feltre, Duke of, <i>see</i> <a href="#Clarke">Clarke</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferdinand VII., King of Spain, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Ferreant, Place de, Lyons, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Flanders, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Fleurs de Lys, <a href="#page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Flushing, <a href="#page_210">210</a></li>
+
+<li>Foljambe, Mr., <a href="#page_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Fontainebleau, <a href="#page_145">145-146</a>, <a href="#page_149">149</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Forbach, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>Forbes, Lady Elizabeth, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Fountain Elephant, <a href="#page_295">295-296</a></li>
+
+<li>Frascati, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_34">34</a>, <a href="#page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>French emigrants, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Fribourg, <a href="#page_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>"Fugio ut Fulgor," <a href="#page_103">103</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Garde Imp�riale, <a href="#page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Gardes d'Honneur, <a href="#page_148">148</a></li>
+
+<li>Garrison of Gibraltar, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Gazettes, <a href="#page_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Genappes, <a href="#page_270">270</a></li>
+
+<li>Generalife at Granada, <a href="#page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Geneva, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_46">46-47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a></li>
+
+<li>Genoa, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>George Street, <a href="#page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Ghent, <a href="#page_274">274-275</a></li>
+
+<li>Gibbon, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Gibraltar, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Glenbervie, Lord and Lady, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Goat curricles, <a href="#page_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li>Goat gigs, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Godoy" id="Godoy"></a>Godoy, Emanuel, Prince of Peace, <a href="#page_64">64</a>, <a href="#page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Gore, General, <a href="#page_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Gorum, <a href="#page_220">220-222</a></li>
+
+<li>Goths, <a href="#page_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li>Graham, Sir Thomas, <a href="#page_207">207</a>, <a href="#page_213">213</a></li>
+
+<li>Granada, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_60">60</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Grand Tour, <a href="#page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Gronow, Memoirs of Captain, <a href="#page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>Grosvenor Place, <a href="#page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Grosvenor, Lord, <a href="#page_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Guarda Costas, <a href="#page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Guido, painter, <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Guignes, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_154">154</a></li>
+
+<li>Guillotine, The, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Haarlem, <a href="#page_230">230</a>, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Hague, The, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Hannibal</i>, The ship, <a href="#page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Hardwicke, Earl of, <a href="#page_112">112</a></li>
+
+<li>Hare, Rev. Augustus, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Hare, Mrs. Augustus, Maria Leycester, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Hare, Augustus J. C., <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Harlequin and Punch, <a href="#page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Harris, Captain, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Haslar Hospital, <a href="#page_98">98</a></li>
+
+<li>Ha�y, mineralogist, <a href="#page_124">124</a></li>
+
+<li>Havre, <a href="#page_94">94</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_99">99</a>, <a href="#page_100">100</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a></li>
+
+<li>Haye, Sainte, La, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Hazard, Rue du, Paris, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>Heber, Reginald, Bishop of Calcutta (1783-1826), <a href="#page_16">16</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Hodnet, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Holland, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a>, <a href="#page_226">226</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a></li>
+
+<li>Holland, Dr., <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Holroyd, Lady Maria Josepha, <i>see</i> also Stanley, <a href="#page_14">14</a></li>
+
+<li>Holyhead Harbour, <a href="#page_255">255</a></li>
+
+<li>Holyhead Island, <a href="#page_10">10</a>, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Holywell, Alderley, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Hookham's, <a href="#page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>H�pital de la Charit�, 45<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_314" id="page_314">[314]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>H�pital des Invalides, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Hermitage, Forest of Fontainebleau, <a href="#page_147">147</a></li>
+
+<li>Hibberts, the, <a href="#page_132">132</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Highlake, Hoylake, Cheshire, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a></li>
+
+<li>Hill, Rowland, General <a name="Lord_Hill" id="Lord_Hill"></a>Lord Hill <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a></li>
+
+<li>Hobart Town, Tasmania, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Hobbema, Dutch painter (d. 1699), <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle, <a href="#page_128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>H�tel de Boston, Paris, <a href="#page_35">35</a></li>
+
+<li>H�tel des Etrangers, Paris, <a href="#page_143">143</a></li>
+
+<li>H�tel du Parc, Lyons, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Hotel in the Wood, Haarlem, <a href="#page_230">230</a></li>
+
+<li>Hougoumont, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Hulot, General, <a href="#page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Hundred Days, The, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Hussey, Edward, of Scotney Castle, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_41">41</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Hutchinson, Captain, <a href="#page_293">293</a>, <a href="#page_294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Huxley, Professor, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Hy�res, <a href="#page_48">48</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line"><span class="smcap">Icelandic Expedition</span>, made by Sir John Stanley, 7th Bart. (1788), <a href="#page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>"Ida of Athens," story written by Lady Morgan at Penrhos, Holyhead. Her
+study "Attica" so called to present day, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Imperial Chasseurs, <a href="#page_107">107</a></li>
+
+<li>India House illumination (1814), <a href="#page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>Infanta of Spain, Queen of Etruria, <a href="#page_52">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Invalides, H�tel des, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Istria, Duc d', <i>see</i> <a href="#Bessieres">Bessi�re</a>s</li>
+
+
+<li class="line"><a name="Jourdan" id="Jourdan"></a>Jourdan, General, (1762-1833), <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_136">136</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line"><span class="smcap">La Belle Alliance</span>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_267">267</a></li>
+
+<li>Lab�doy�re, General, <a href="#page_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Laeken, Palace of, <a href="#page_275">275</a></li>
+
+<li>Lady Penrhyn's cottages, allusion to the model village of Llandegai in
+Wales, <a href="#page_227">227</a></li>
+
+<li>Lafayette, General, Marquis de, <a href="#page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>La Haye, Sainte, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>Laird, English Consul, Malaga, <a href="#page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Lamb, Lady Caroline, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Lansdowne, Lord, <a href="#page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Laon, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_161">161-163</a></li>
+
+<li>"La Reyna Louisa," <a href="#page_54">54</a></li>
+
+<li>Lavalette, General, <a href="#page_293">293</a></li>
+
+<li>Le Brun, <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Lefebre" id="Lefebre"></a>Lefebre, Marshal, Duc de Dantzig, <a href="#page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Leghs, The, of High Legh, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Leghorn, <a href="#page_50">50-52</a></li>
+
+<li>Leighton, Sir Baldwin, Bart., of Loton, <a href="#page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Leipzic, Battle of, <a href="#page_170">170</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Leith, <i>The John of Leith</i></li>
+
+<li>Leith, the Emperor sails from, <a href="#page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>L'Ettorel, Professor, <a href="#page_124">124</a></li>
+
+<li>Levanter, east wind, Mediterranean, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycester, Edward Penrhyn, brother of Mrs. E. Stanley, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>,
+<a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycester, Hugh, uncle of Mrs. Edward Stanley, <a href="#page_32">32</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycester, Kitty, <i>see</i> Mrs. E. Stanley, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycester, Maria, Mrs. Augustus Hare, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycester, Oswald, Mrs. E. Stanley's father, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycester, Ralph, <a href="#page_261">261</a></li>
+
+<li>Leycesters of Toft, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Leyden, <a href="#page_231">231</a>, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Libraries, Public, <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Li�ge, <a href="#page_193">193</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Lille, <a href="#page_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Lillo, fort in Holland, <a href="#page_203">203</a></li>
+
+<li>Lind, Jenny, 22<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_315" id="page_315">[315]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Lindsay, Lady Charlotte, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Linois, Comte de, <a href="#page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Linz on the Rhine, <a href="#page_192">192</a></li>
+
+<li>Lisbon, <a href="#page_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Lisle, <a href="#page_196">196</a></li>
+
+<li>Liverpool, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_43">43</a>, <a href="#page_51">51</a></li>
+
+<li>Liverpool, Lord, <a href="#page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Llandaff, Dean Vaughan of, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Lodi, Battle of, <a href="#page_136">136</a></li>
+
+<li>Loja, in Spain, <a href="#page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>London, <a href="#page_81">81</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Lorich on Rhine, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis Buonaparte, King of Holland, <i>see</i> <a href="#Buonaparte">Buonaparte</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis, King of Etruria, <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis XIV., <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis XVI., <a href="#page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Louis XVIII., <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_150">150</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a>, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_292">292</a>,
+<a href="#page_303">303-304</a></li>
+
+<li>Louisa Stanley, <i>see</i> Stanley</li>
+
+<li>Louvel, assassin of the Duke de Berri, <a href="#page_139">139</a></li>
+
+<li>Louvre, The, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a></li>
+
+<li>Lowe, Rev. Mr., <a href="#page_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucien Buonaparte, <i>see</i> <a href="#Buonaparte">Buonaparte</a></li>
+
+<li>Lucy Stanley, <i>see</i> Stanley</li>
+
+<li>Lugai, Professor, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Lutzen, Battle of, <a href="#page_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Lyne and Co., Lisbon, <a href="#page_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Lyons, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_43">43-46</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Macclesfield, Cheshire, <a href="#page_221">221</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Macdonald" id="Macdonald"></a>Macdonald, Marshal, Duc de Tarente, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>Macon, <a href="#page_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Madrid, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a>, <a href="#page_72">72</a></li>
+
+<li>Maine, The River, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Maison" id="Maison"></a>Maison, General, "Brise-Maison," <a href="#page_197">197</a></li>
+
+<li>Malaga, Mole of, <a href="#page_57">57</a>, <a href="#page_61">61</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_64">64</a>, <a href="#page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Malines, Mechlin, <a href="#page_201">201</a>, <a href="#page_202">202</a></li>
+
+<li>Malmaison, <a href="#page_130">130</a>, <a href="#page_131">131</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Manchester, <a href="#page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Marcet, Mrs., <a href="#page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Marengo, Battle of, <a href="#page_49">49</a>, <a href="#page_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Maria Josepha Holroyd, Lady, <i>see</i> Holroyd and Stanley</li>
+
+<li>Marie Louise, Empress, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_284">284</a></li>
+
+<li>Marlborough, Duke of, biography by order of Napoleon, <a href="#page_297">297</a></li>
+
+<li>Marly, Aqueduct of, <a href="#page_133">133</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Marmont" id="Marmont"></a>Marmont, Marshal, Duc de Raguse, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_116">116-118</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Marshals, The, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_151">151</a>, <a href="#page_195">195</a>, <a href="#page_238">238</a>, <i>see</i> also under <a href="#Bessieres">Bessi�res</a>,
+<a href="#Davoust">Davoust</a>, <a href="#Berthier">Berthier</a>, <a href="#Clarke">Clarke</a>, <a href="#Jourdan">Jourdan</a>, <a href="#Lefebre">Lefebre</a>, <a href="#Macdonald">Macdonald</a>, <a href="#Marmont">Marmont</a>,
+<a href="#Massena">Mass�na</a>, <a href="#Moncey">Moncey</a>, <a href="#Mortier">Mortier</a>, <a href="#Murat">Murat</a>, <a href="#Ney">Ney</a>, <a href="#Soult">Soult</a>, <a href="#Victor">Victor</a></li>
+
+<li>Martin, Mr., <a href="#page_122">122</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Massena" id="Massena"></a>Mass�na, Marshal, Duc de Rivoli, <a href="#page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Mathew, Father, <a href="#page_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>Matthews, Montague, <a href="#page_37">37</a></li>
+
+<li>Maubeuge, <a href="#page_271">271</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a></li>
+
+<li>Maudesley's engines, <a href="#page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Mausthurm, or Mouse Turret, <a href="#page_184">184</a></li>
+
+<li>Mayence, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a>, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>McDonald, Captain, <a href="#page_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Meaux, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_153">153-156</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Medusa</i>, English frigate, <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+<li>Melbourne, Lord, <a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+
+<li>Melun, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>"Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, <a href="#page_16">16</a></li>
+
+<li>Meteoric stones, presentation sword made from, <a href="#page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li>Metsu, Gabriel, Dutch painter (1615-1658), <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Metz, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a>, <a href="#page_173">173-175</a>, <a href="#page_180">180</a></li>
+
+<li>Mieris, Dutch painter (1635-1681), <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Milton's mulberry-tree, <a href="#page_40">40</a></li>
+
+<li>Minorca, <a href="#page_67">67</a>, 70<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_316" id="page_316">[316]</a></span></li>
+
+<li><a name="Moncey" id="Moncey"></a>Moncey, Marshal, Duc de Cornegliano, <a href="#page_137">137-139</a></li>
+
+<li>Mons, <a href="#page_271">271-273</a></li>
+
+<li>Montmartre, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, <a href="#page_115">115-117</a>, <a href="#page_175">175</a></li>
+
+<li>Montserrat, Lady of, <a href="#page_56">56</a></li>
+
+<li>Mont St. Jean, Waterloo, <a href="#page_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li>Moors, The, <a href="#page_62">62</a></li>
+
+<li>Moreau, General, <a href="#page_76">76</a></li>
+
+<li>Moreau, Madame, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a></li>
+
+<li>Morgan, Lady, <a href="#page_232">232</a></li>
+
+<li>Morritt, Mr., of Rokeby, <a href="#page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Mortier" id="Mortier"></a>Mortier, Marshal, Duc de Treviso, <a href="#page_7">7</a>, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_144">144</a></li>
+
+<li>Moscow, <a href="#page_174">174</a></li>
+
+<li>Moskowa, Prince de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Ney">Ney</a></li>
+
+<li>Munchausen, Baron, <a href="#page_117">117</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Murat" id="Murat"></a>Murat, Joachim, King of Naples, <a href="#page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>Murrays, The, <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_290">290</a>, <a href="#page_297">297</a>, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_303">303</a></li>
+
+<li>Mutiny at Gibraltar, <a href="#page_66">66</a></li>
+
+<li>Muxham, near Antwerp, <a href="#page_207">207</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">N., erasure of Napoleon's initial (1814-1816), <a href="#page_110">110-300</a></li>
+
+<li>Naard, Holland, <a href="#page_220">220</a></li>
+
+<li>Naples, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Naples, the King of, <i>see</i> <a href="#Murat">Murat</a></li>
+
+<li>Napoleon, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_73">73-83</a>, <a href="#page_107">107</a>, <a href="#page_111">111-113</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a>, <a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_164">164</a>, <a href="#page_176">176</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>,
+<a href="#page_186">186</a>, <a href="#page_187">187</a>, <a href="#page_196">196</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a>, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_242">242-245</a>, <a href="#page_267">267-269</a>, <a href="#page_288">288</a>, <a href="#page_289">289</a>,
+<a href="#page_295">295</a></li>
+
+<li>National Schools, <a href="#page_22">22</a></li>
+
+<li>Nazareth, <a href="#page_151">151</a></li>
+
+<li>Necker, Minister to Louis XVI., <a href="#page_79">79</a></li>
+
+<li>Nelson's Pillar, Dublin, <a href="#page_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Netherlands, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_181">181</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a>, <a href="#page_244">244</a></li>
+
+<li>New Guinea, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>New Zealand, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Ney" id="Ney"></a>Ney, Marshal, Prince de la Moskowa, <a href="#page_137">137</a>, <a href="#page_299">299</a></li>
+
+<li>Nightingale, Miss, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Nightingale, Dr., at Alderley, <a href="#page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Nivelle Road, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_276">276</a></li>
+
+<li>"Nobles de Campagne," <a href="#page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li>Norfolk, <a href="#page_20">20</a></li>
+
+<li>Normandy, <a href="#page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>North, Lady Catherine, married Lord Glenbervie, <a href="#page_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>North, Hon. F., <a href="#page_191">191</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a></li>
+
+<li>North Island of New Zealand, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>North Sea, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Norwich, Bishop of, <i>see</i> E. Stanley, <a href="#page_19">19-22</a>, <a href="#page_24">24</a></li>
+
+<li>Nottingham Castle, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Novi, Northern Italy, <a href="#page_50">50</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Oldenburg bonnets, <a href="#page_101">101</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_200">200</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Oldenburg" id="Oldenburg"></a>Oldenburg, Duchess, Catherine of, <a href="#page_83">83</a>, <a href="#page_90">90</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_98">98</a>, <a href="#page_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>"Ologies," Humorous Sketches by E. S., <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>O'Neil, Miss, actress, <a href="#page_286">286</a></li>
+
+<li>Orange, Prince of, <a href="#page_208">208</a>, <a href="#page_233">233</a>, <a href="#page_254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Orange, Princess of, <a href="#page_231">231</a></li>
+
+<li>Ostade, Adrien, Dutch painter, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Ostend, <a href="#page_251">251</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a>, <a href="#page_255">255</a>, <a href="#page_258">258</a>, <a href="#page_259">259</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Palais Royal, <a href="#page_119">119</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Palmer, Mr., <a href="#page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Pantin, France, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Paris, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_34">34-35</a>, <a href="#page_37">37-40</a>, <a href="#page_73">73</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a>, <a href="#page_106">106</a>, <a href="#page_108">108</a>, <a href="#page_109">109</a>, <a href="#page_112">112-118</a>,
+<a href="#page_134">134</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_143">143</a>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_277">277</a>, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Parker, Mrs., of Astle, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Parry, Sir Edward, K.C.B., arctic navigator, m. Isabella, daughter of
+Sir John Stanley, <a href="#page_254">254</a></li>
+
+<li>Peace, Prince of, <i>see</i> <a href="#Godoy">Godoy</a></li>
+
+<li>"Peacock at Home, The," <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Penrhos, Holyhead, <a href="#page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Perignan, General, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Peter the Great, House of, <a href="#page_226">226</a></li>
+
+<li>Petit, Madame, French actress, 33<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_317" id="page_317">[317]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Pevensey, Lord, <a href="#page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Pierre Suisse, ancient castle near Lyons, destroyed in the Revolution,
+<a href="#page_45">45</a></li>
+
+<li>Pisa, <a href="#page_51">51</a>, <a href="#page_52">52</a></li>
+
+<li>Place Buonaparte, Lyons, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Place Belle Cour, Lyons, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li>Platoff, Russian General, <a href="#page_89">89</a></li>
+
+<li>Poissardes, Havre, <a href="#page_101">101</a></li>
+
+<li>Polytechnique, Ecole, <i>see</i> <a href="#Ecole">Ecole</a></li>
+
+<li>Pope Pius VII., <a href="#page_46">46</a></li>
+
+<li>Porto Ferraro, Elba, <a href="#page_46">46-53</a></li>
+
+<li>Potter, Paul, Dutch animal painter (1625-1654), <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Praams, Flotilla of, at Havre, intended for the invasion of England, <a href="#page_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>Prussia, Frederick William, King of, <a href="#page_91">91</a>, <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_152">152</a>, <a href="#page_153">153</a>, <a href="#page_177">177</a>, <a href="#page_192">192</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Prussia, Louisa, Queen of, <a href="#page_178">178</a></li>
+
+<li>Pulteney Hotel, London, <a href="#page_85">85</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">"Queen," H.M.S, <a href="#page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Quiverain frontier, France and Belgium, <a href="#page_278">278</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Radnor Mere, at Alderley, <a href="#page_252">252</a></li>
+
+<li>Raguse, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Marmont">Marmont</a></li>
+
+<li>Rambouillet, Seine et Oise, <a href="#page_74">74</a></li>
+
+<li>Ramsgate, <a href="#page_249">249</a></li>
+
+<li>Raphael, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_133">133</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Rattlesnake</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_18">18</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>R�camier, Madame, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="REGNAUD" id="REGNAUD"></a>R�gnaud, St. Jean d'Ang�ly, <a href="#page_119">119</a></li>
+
+<li>Reign of Terror, The, <a href="#page_26">26</a></li>
+
+<li>Rembrandt, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Revolution, The, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a>, <a href="#page_126">126</a></li>
+
+<li>Rheims, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_165">165</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a></li>
+
+<li>Rhine Castles, <a href="#page_144">144</a>, <a href="#page_172">172</a>, <a href="#page_186">186</a></li>
+
+<li>Riddel, Captain, <a href="#page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Rivoli, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Massena">Mass�na</a></li>
+
+<li>Robespierre, Maximilian, <a href="#page_42">42</a>, <a href="#page_48">48</a></li>
+
+<li>Rokeby, Mr. Morritt, of, <a href="#page_87">87</a></li>
+
+<li>Romainville, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Rome, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Rome, King of, sent to Rambouillet, <a href="#page_74">74</a>;<br /> in uniform at three years old,
+<a href="#page_141">141</a>;<br /> four goat carriages ordered for him, <a href="#page_223">223</a></li>
+
+<li>Roncour, Madame, actress, <a href="#page_114">114</a></li>
+
+<li>Ronstan the Mameluke, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Rotterdam, <a href="#page_223">223</a>, <a href="#page_234">234</a></li>
+
+<li>Rouen, <a href="#page_27">27</a>, <a href="#page_29">29</a>, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a>, <a href="#page_36">36</a>, <a href="#page_103">103</a>, <a href="#page_104">104</a>, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_120">120</a>, <a href="#page_253">253</a></li>
+
+<li>Rowland Hill, <i>see</i> <a href="#Lord_Hill">Lord Hill</a></li>
+
+<li>Royals, the regiment, <a href="#page_67">67</a></li>
+
+<li>Rubens, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_274">274</a></li>
+
+<li>Rue Aux Ours, <a href="#page_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>"Rule Britannia," <a href="#page_99">99</a></li>
+
+<li>Russia, Empress of, <a href="#page_307">307</a></li>
+
+<li>Russia, Emperor of, <i>see</i> <a href="#Alexander">Alexander</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Saarbruck, <a href="#page_195">195</a></li>
+
+<li>Saardam, <a href="#page_228">228</a></li>
+
+<li>Saas, <a href="#page_258">258</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Andrew, <a href="#page_281">281</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Andrew's Hall, Norwich, <a href="#page_21">21</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Appollonius, chapel on the Rhine, <a href="#page_188">188</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Avold, German Lorraine, <a href="#page_178">178</a>, <a href="#page_179">179</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Bernard's Pass, <a href="#page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Cloud, special residence of Napoleon, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Denis, <a href="#page_31">31</a>, <a href="#page_116">116</a>, <a href="#page_297">297</a>, <a href="#page_302">302</a>, <a href="#page_308">308</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Germain, The Terrace, <a href="#page_307">307</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Helena, <a href="#page_266">266</a>, <a href="#page_269">269</a></li>
+
+<li>St. James' Street, <a href="#page_84">84</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Jean d'Ang�ly, <i>see</i> <a href="#REGNAUD">R�gnaud</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Jean de Luz, <a href="#page_166">166</a></li>
+
+<li>St. John's, Cambridge, <a href="#page_12">12</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Lawrence, processional figure, <a href="#page_280">280</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Michel, village near Havre, <a href="#page_100">100</a></li>
+
+<li>St. Roque, Spain, <a href="#page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Salamanca, Battle of, 279<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_318" id="page_318">[318]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Salvator Rosa, Neapolitan painter (1615-1673), <a href="#page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Saumarez, Admiral, <a href="#page_53">53</a></li>
+
+<li>Scheldt, <a href="#page_204">204</a></li>
+
+<li>Scheveningen, fishing village near the Hague, <a href="#page_233">233</a></li>
+
+<li>Schwartzenberg, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Scotney Castle, Kent, property of E. Hussey, Esq., <a href="#page_25">25</a></li>
+
+<li>Scott, John, <a href="#page_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li>Scott, Sir Walter, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_262">262</a></li>
+
+<li>Scovell, Sir George, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Senate, <a href="#page_77">77</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a></li>
+
+<li>Serinyer, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Serurier, General, <a href="#page_137">137</a></li>
+
+<li>Seville, <a href="#page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Sheffield, Lady (Lady Anne North), <a href="#page_191">191</a></li>
+
+<li>Sheffield, John B. Holroyd, First Lord, <a href="#page_14">14</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_236">236</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>,
+<a href="#page_242">242</a>, <a href="#page_245">245-248</a></li>
+
+<li>Sheffield Place, <a href="#page_247">247</a></li>
+
+<li>Shute, surgeon, <a href="#page_42">42</a></li>
+
+<li>Sicard, Abb�, founder Deaf and Dumb School, Paris, <a href="#page_298">298</a></li>
+
+<li>Siddons, Mrs., <a href="#page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Skerret, Major-General, <a href="#page_211">211</a></li>
+
+<li>Smith, Sydney, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Soignies, Forest of, <a href="#page_261">261</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a></li>
+
+<li>Soissons, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_156">156</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a>, <a href="#page_161">161-163</a></li>
+
+<li>Sotheby, Mr. and Mrs., <a href="#page_285">285</a>, <a href="#page_298">298</a>, <a href="#page_300">300</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Soult" id="Soult"></a>Soult, Marshal, Duc de Dalmatie, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_138">138</a></li>
+
+<li>South Stack Rocks, Holyhead, <a href="#page_17">17</a></li>
+
+<li>Spain, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_55">55</a>, <a href="#page_59">59</a>, <a href="#page_63">63</a>, <a href="#page_66">66</a>, <a href="#page_69">69</a>, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Spanish Funds, <a href="#page_239">239</a></li>
+
+<li>Sta�l, Auguste de, <a href="#page_127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Sta�l, Madame de, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_79">79</a>, <a href="#page_97">97</a>, <a href="#page_110">110-112</a>, <a href="#page_125">125</a></li>
+
+<li>Sta�l, Mademoiselle de, <a href="#page_127">127</a></li>
+
+<li>Stafford, Lord, <a href="#page_113">113</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Sir John, 6th Bart., m. Margaret, daughter and heiress of Hugh
+Owen of Penrhos, 1763, <a href="#page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Lady Margaret Owen, born 1742, <a href="#page_10">10</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Sir John T., 7th Bart., 1st Lord Stanley of Alderley, m. 1796
+Lady Maria Josepha Holroyd, daughter of Lord Sheffield, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Lady Maria Josepha, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_26">26</a>, <a href="#page_74">74</a>, <a href="#page_76">76</a>, <a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_84">84</a>, <a href="#page_89">89</a>, <a href="#page_96">96</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_248">248</a>,
+<a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_273">273</a>, <a href="#page_281">281</a>, <a href="#page_301">301</a></li>
+
+<li>
+Stanley, Edward, naturalist and ornithologist, son of Sir John Stanley, 6th Bart.;<br />
+born 1779;<br />
+entered St. John's, Cambridge, 1798;<br />
+wrangler, 1802;<br />
+Rector of Alderley, 1805 to 1837;<br />
+Vice-President of British Association for the Advancement of Science, 1836;<br />
+Bishop of Norwich, 1837;<br />
+died, 1849, <a href="#page_9">9-24</a><br />
+</li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Mrs. Edward, Kitty, daughter of Rev. Oswald Leycester, of Stoke
+upon Tern, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_22">22</a>, <a href="#page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Owen, eldest son of Bishop Stanley, <a href="#page_17">17</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_190">190</a>, <a href="#page_222">222</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Charles Edward, 2nd son of <i>ibid.</i>, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Arthur Penrhyn, Dean of Westminster, 3rd son of <i>ibid.</i>, <a href="#page_10">10</a>,
+<a href="#page_19">19</a>, <a href="#page_23">23</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Mary, eldest daughter of Bishop Stanley, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Stanley_Catherine" id="Stanley_Catherine"></a>Stanley, Catherine, 2nd daughter of <i>ibid.</i>;<br /> m. C. Vaughan, Master of
+the Temple, and Dean of Llandaff, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Rianette, daughter of Sir John, 7th Bart., and Lady M. J.
+Stanley, <a href="#page_277">277</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Lucy, 2nd daughter of<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_319" id="page_319">[319]</a></span> <i>ibid.</i>;<br /> m. Captain Marcus Hare, R.N.,
+<a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Louisa Dorothea, 3rd daughter of <i>ibid.</i>, <a href="#page_249">249</a>, <a href="#page_250">250</a>, <a href="#page_293">293</a>, <a href="#page_297">297</a>,
+<a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Isabella, 4th daughter of <i>ibid.</i>;<br /> m. 1826 Sir Edward Parry,
+K.C.B., Arctic Navigator, <a href="#page_254">254</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Louisa, daughter of Sir John T. Stanley, 6th Bart., and
+Margaret Owen of Penrhos: m. 1802 Sir Baldwin Leighton, Bart., <a href="#page_68">68</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanley, Lady Charlotte, daughter of 13th Earl of Derby;<br /> m. 1823 Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn, <a href="#page_246">246</a></li>
+
+<li>Stanmer Park, property of Earl of Chichester, <a href="#page_243">243-244</a></li>
+
+<li>Stockholm, <a href="#page_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Stoke-upon-Tern, Mrs. E. Stanley's early home, <a href="#page_15">15</a>, <a href="#page_115">115</a></li>
+
+<li>Strasburg, <a href="#page_182">182</a></li>
+
+<li>Stuart, Sir Charles, afterwards Lord Stuart de Rothesay, <a href="#page_105">105</a>, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>,
+<a href="#page_120">120-122</a>, <a href="#page_160">160</a></li>
+
+<li>Swedenborg, <a href="#page_194">194</a></li>
+
+<li>Sydney, <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Sydney, Lord, <a href="#page_86">86</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Tadmor, Palmyra, <a href="#page_152">152</a></li>
+
+<li>Talleyrand-Perigord, Prince de Benevento, French statesman and
+diplomatist, 1754-1838, Ambassador to Great Britain (1830), <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Talma, French tragic actor, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_240">240</a>, <a href="#page_286">286-7</a></li>
+
+<li>Tangiers, <a href="#page_60">60</a></li>
+
+<li>Tarentum, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Macdonald">Macdonald</a></li>
+
+<li>Tarleton and Rigge, <a href="#page_43">43</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Tartana</i>, Mediterranean vessel, <a href="#page_57">57</a></li>
+
+<li>Tasmania, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Temple, Paris prison, <a href="#page_31">31</a></li>
+
+<li>Teniers, Dutch painter, <a href="#page_201">201</a></li>
+
+<li>Tennant, Mr., <a href="#page_92">92</a>, <a href="#page_93">93</a></li>
+
+<li><i>Terror</i>, H.M.S., <a href="#page_18">18</a></li>
+
+<li>Tets von Grondam, Mdme., <a href="#page_229">229</a></li>
+
+<li>Tezart, Paris banker, <a href="#page_36">36</a></li>
+
+<li>Theatres, Paris, <a href="#page_33">33</a>, <a href="#page_39">39</a></li>
+
+<li>Thuilleries, <a href="#page_37">37</a>, <a href="#page_113">113</a>, <a href="#page_121">121</a>, <a href="#page_135">135</a>, <a href="#page_304">304</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Titian, painter, <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Toft Hall, Knutsford, <a href="#page_15">15</a></li>
+
+<li>Toledo, <a href="#page_59">59</a></li>
+
+<li>Tomkinson, Miss, <a href="#page_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Toulon, <a href="#page_70">70</a></li>
+
+<li>Tousein, Russian General, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Towers, round towers at Laon, <a href="#page_162">162</a></li>
+
+<li>Trappe, La, Monk of, soldier in Napoleon's army, <a href="#page_170">170</a></li>
+
+<li>Treaty of Paris, <a href="#page_146">146</a></li>
+
+<li>Trechschuyt, Dutch barge, <a href="#page_225">225</a></li>
+
+<li>Treviso, Duc de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Mortier">Mortier</a></li>
+
+<li>Trianon, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_306">306</a></li>
+
+<li>Troyes, Champagne, <a href="#page_41">41</a></li>
+
+<li>Trueman, Mr., <a href="#page_259">259</a></li>
+
+<li>Tunno, Miss, a brilliant member of society, lived at Taplow Lodge, <a href="#page_76">76</a>,
+<a href="#page_78">78</a>, <a href="#page_85">85</a></li>
+
+<li>Turin, <a href="#page_49">49</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Union of England with Ireland and Scotland, Napoleon's views, <a href="#page_241">241</a></li>
+
+<li>Utrecht, <a href="#page_221">221</a>, <a href="#page_224">224</a>, <a href="#page_228">228</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Valencia, Spain, <a href="#page_71">71</a></li>
+
+<li>Valenciennes, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_282">282</a></li>
+
+<li>Vandyck, <a href="#page_38">38</a>, <a href="#page_205">205</a>, <a href="#page_206">206</a></li>
+
+<li>Vauchamps, <a href="#page_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Vaughan, Master of the Temple and Dean of Llandaff, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Vaughan, Mrs, <i>see</i> <a href="#Stanley_Catherine">Catherine Stanley</a>, <a href="#page_19">19</a></li>
+
+<li>Vauxhall, <a href="#page_30">30</a>, <a href="#page_33">33</a></li>
+
+<li>Vend�me, Colonne, <a href="#page_110">110</a></li>
+
+<li>Vend�me Place, <a href="#page_110">110</a>, 292<span class="pagenumber"><a name="page_320" id="page_320">[320]</a></span></li>
+
+<li>Venice, <a href="#page_240">240</a></li>
+
+<li>Venice preserved, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Ventas, Spanish inns, <a href="#page_58">58</a>, <a href="#page_62">62</a>, <a href="#page_65">65</a></li>
+
+<li>Venus de Medici, <a href="#page_114">114</a>, <a href="#page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Verdun, <a href="#page_146">146</a>, <a href="#page_168">168</a>, <a href="#page_169">169</a></li>
+
+<li>Vernet, Antoine Claude, painter (1758-1836), <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Veronese, Paul, <a href="#page_38">38</a></li>
+
+<li>Versailles, <a href="#page_39">39</a>, <a href="#page_140">140</a>, <a href="#page_305">305</a></li>
+
+<li>Vetey Malaga, <a href="#page_58">58</a></li>
+
+<li>Vetturino travelling, <a href="#page_25">25</a>, <a href="#page_40">40</a>, <a href="#page_47">47</a>, <a href="#page_49">49</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Victor" id="Victor"></a>Victor, Marshal, Duc de Belluno, <a href="#page_138">138</a>, <a href="#page_145">145</a></li>
+
+<li>Vienna, Congress of, <a href="#page_112">112</a>, <a href="#page_235">235</a>, <a href="#page_237">237</a></li>
+
+<li>Villejuif, near Paris, <a href="#page_149">149</a></li>
+
+<li>Vincennes, Ch�teau de, <a href="#page_134">134</a></li>
+
+<li>Vittoria, Panorama of, <a href="#page_82">82</a></li>
+
+<li>Vivienne, Rue de, <a href="#page_32">32</a>, <a href="#page_35">35</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Waal, river, Holland, <a href="#page_220">220</a></li>
+
+<li>Wagram, Prince de, <i>see</i> <a href="#Berthier">Berthier</a></li>
+
+<li>Walcheren, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_203">203</a>, <a href="#page_243">243</a></li>
+
+<li>Wales, Princess of, <a href="#page_177">177</a></li>
+
+<li>Waterloo, <a href="#page_133">133</a>, <a href="#page_199">199</a>, <a href="#page_246">246</a>, <a href="#page_247">247</a>, <a href="#page_260">260</a>, <a href="#page_264">264</a>, <a href="#page_265">265</a>, <a href="#page_270">270</a>, <a href="#page_275">275</a>, <a href="#page_279">279</a></li>
+
+<li>Waterloo, Panorama of, by Barker, <a href="#page_248">248</a></li>
+
+<li>Wellington, Lord, <i>see</i> <a href="#Wellington_Duke_of">Duke of</a></li>
+
+<li><a name="Wellington_Duke_of" id="Wellington_Duke_of"></a>Wellington, Duke of, <a href="#page_75">75</a>, <a href="#page_263">263</a>, <a href="#page_278">278</a>, <a href="#page_280">280</a>, <a href="#page_283">283</a>, <a href="#page_291">291</a></li>
+
+<li>Wellington Tree, The, <a href="#page_268">268</a></li>
+
+<li>White's Club, <a href="#page_93">93</a>, <a href="#page_95">95</a></li>
+
+<li>Wilberforce, William, <a href="#page_128">128</a></li>
+
+<li>Wilbraham, Mr., of Delamere Lodge, <a href="#page_285">285</a></li>
+
+<li>Wilson, Sir Robert, <a href="#page_294">294</a></li>
+
+<li>Windlesham, Surrey, <a href="#page_12">12</a></li>
+
+<li>Winnington, Cheshire, property of Sir John Stanley, <a href="#page_132">132</a></li>
+
+<li>Winzengerode, General, <a href="#page_145">145</a>, <a href="#page_159">159</a></li>
+
+<li>Woolwich, <a href="#page_91">91</a></li>
+
+<li>Wurtemberg, Crown Prince of, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+<li>Wurtemberg, Prince Eugene of, <a href="#page_116">116</a></li>
+
+
+<li class="line">Yankies, <a href="#page_238">238</a></li>
+
+<li>Yarmouth, Lord, <a href="#page_242">242</a></li>
+
+<li>Yorke, Lady Elizabeth, <a href="#page_112">112</a></li>
+</ul>
+
+
+<p class="c top15">UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, WOKING AND LONDON.</p>
+
+
+<div class="footnotes">
+<h3><a name="FOOTNOTES" id="FOOTNOTES"></a>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Maria Leycester, m. 1829 Rev. Augustus Hare.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> "Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, adopted son
+of Mrs. Augustus Hare (Maria Leycester).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> E. Hussey, of Scotney Castle, Kent. He died in 1817 and
+left his only son Edward (married, 1853, Henrietta Clive, daughter of
+Baroness Windsor) to the guardianship of Edward Stanley.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Madame R�camier, famous French beauty, 1777-1849.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> Pius VII., made Pope in 1800.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> General Jourdan, 1762-1833, Marshal. He fought in the
+Peninsular War, and rallied to Napoleon during the Hundred Days, but
+later on served the Bourbons and was made Governor of the H�tel des
+Invalides under Louis Philippe.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> General Desaix; killed at Marengo, 1800.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Louis, King of Etruria, son of Ferdinand, Duke of Parma
+married Mary, Infanta of Spain; died 1803.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> Comte de Linois, 1761-1848. On June 13, 1801, he, with
+three ships, defeated six British ships in Algeciras Bay, and being
+protected by the Spanish batteries, he forced the British admiral to
+retreat, leaving the <i>Hannibal</i> in possession of the enemy. In
+recognition of this triumph Linois received a sword of honour from
+Napoleon. The English fleet avenged this disaster on July 12, 1801, when
+the Spanish and French squadrons set out from Cadiz with the captured
+<i>Hannibal</i> and Admiral Saumarez forced the combined fleets to retire
+shattered into harbour again.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> The vessel in which Edward Stanley's elder brother John
+had made his Icelandic Expedition, 1788.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> A famous image of the Virgin, said to have been found <span class="smcap">A.D.</span>
+880 on a mountain of Catalonia, and in honour of which a magnificent
+church was built by Philip II. and Philip III. of Spain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> <i>Tartana</i>&mdash;a vessel peculiar to the Mediterranean.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> Emanuel Godoy, favourite Minister of Charles IV. of
+Spain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> H.R.H. Edward, Duke of Kent; appointed Governor of
+Gibraltar, 1802. In order to establish strict discipline in the
+garrison, which he found in a very demoralised state, he issued a
+general order forbidding any private soldiers to enter the wine shops,
+half of which he closed at a personal sacrifice of �4,000 a year in
+licensing fees. In consequence, a mutiny broke out on Christmas Eve,
+1802. Though the mutiny was quelled, the Home Government did not support
+the Duke, who was recalled in March, 1803.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Edward Stanley's sister, Louisa; m., November, 1802, to
+Sir Baldwin Leighton, Bart., of Loton, Shropshire.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> Godoy (Emanuel&mdash;b. 1767, d. 1851), Prince of Peace. Prime
+Minister to Charles IV. of Spain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> Marshal Viscount Beresford, b. 1770, d. 1854, General in
+the English Army. He reorganised the Portuguese army in the Peninsular
+War.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Sir Henry Clinton, General; d. 1829.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> Sir William Clinton, General, 1769-1854; married Louisa,
+second daughter of Lord Sheffield.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> On April 10th Lord Wellington fought the Battle of
+Toulouse against Soult.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Madame Moreau, widow of General Moreau, daughter of
+General Hulot, and a friend of the Empress Jos�phine. Since the death of
+the General, who was killed at the battle of Dresden, in 1813, the
+Emperor Alexander had given Mme. Moreau a pension of 100,000 francs a
+year in recognition of her husband's services; and in 1814 Louis XVIII.
+gave her the rank of "Mar�chale de France."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Catherine Fanshawe, poetess, and friend of most of the
+literary people in London of her day.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Mrs. Marcet, b. 1785, a native of Geneva (<i>n�e</i>
+Halduriand). Well known for her economic and scientific works.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> Madame de Sta�l, daughter of Louis XVI.'s Minister Necker,
+b. 1766, d. 1817. Married 1786 to the Baron de Sta�l, Swedish Minister
+to France. She had been exiled from France by Napoleon on account of her
+books, "Corinne" and "L'Allemagne."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829; began life as a Cornish
+miner. He became a distinguished chemist and scientist.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> Daughter of C. Kerr, Esq., of Kelso, and widow of S.
+Apreece, Esq., married Sir Humphry Davy, 1812.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Second Earl of Clancarty, 1767-1837. Ambassador to the
+Netherlands</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a> The Emperor Alexander I. of Russia, 1777-1825.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a> Lucien, second brother of the Emperor Napoleon,
+1775-1840.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a> Catherine, Grand Duchess of Russia, sister of the Emperor
+Alexander I., won golden opinions in England. "She was very clever,
+graceful, and elegant, with most pleasing manners, and spoke English
+well." Creevey says that the Emperor was much indebted to his sister,
+the Duchess of Oldenburg, for "keeping him in the course by her
+judicious interposition and observations." In 1808 Napoleon had wished
+for her as his bride, but, as she says in a letter to her brother, the
+Czar, "her heart would break as the intended wife of Napoleon before she
+could reach the limits of his usurped dominions, and she cannot but
+consider as frightfully ominous this offer of marriage from an Imperial
+Assassin to the daughter and grand-daughter of two assassinated
+Emperors" (see "Letters of Two Brothers," by Lady G. Ramsden). The
+marriage of the Grand Duchess Catherine to the Duke of Oldenburg was
+hastily arranged to enable her to escape the alliance. The Duke died in
+1812, and she afterwards married her cousin, the Crown Prince of
+Wurtemberg, to whom she had been attached in early youth. The Duchess
+attracted great attention by wearing a large bonnet, which afterwards
+became the fashion and was called after her.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a> Lady Caroline, daughter of the Earl of Bessborough, wife
+of Hon. William Lamb, afterwards Lord Melbourne, authoress of
+"Glenarvon," &amp;c.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a> Mr. Morritt, of Rokeby.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a> Lord Liverpool, 1770-1828. Prime Minister in 1815.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a> Platoff, 1716-1818, Russian General.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a> Frederick William III.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a> The Duchess had been very fond of music, but since the
+death of her husband it had affected her so deeply that she feared
+breaking down on any public occasion.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a> Rowland Hill. General Lord Hill, 1772-1842; distinguished
+in the Peninsular War.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a> The Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a> "After the Restoration of the Bourbons several duels took
+place for the most frivolous causes. Duels were fought even by night.
+The officers of the Swiss guards were constantly measuring swords with
+the officers of the old 'Garde Imp�riale'" (Gronow's Memoirs, vol. ii.
+p. 22).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a>
+The Colonne Vend�me. This stood on the site of a statue to
+Louis XIV. which had been melted down at the Revolution. It was made of
+Austrian cannon taken during the years from 1806 to 1810.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41"
+id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41">
+<span class="label">[41]</span></a> Madame de Sta�l had only returned to France after her long
+exile a few weeks after Napoleon's abdication. Her rooms were in the
+H�tel de Tamerzan, 105, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42"
+ id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42">
+<span class="label">[42]</span></a> Stuart, Sir Charles, 1779-1845. Eldest son of Sir C.
+Stuart, General, and Louisa, daughter and co-heiress of Lord Vere
+Bertie. Minister at the Hague and Ambassador at Paris, and later on at
+St. Petersburg. British Envoy at the Congress of Vienna. Created Baron
+Stuart de Rothesay 1841. Married, 1816, Lady Elizabeth Yorke, third
+daughter of third Earl of Hardwicke. Gronow gives a more favourable
+account of him, "One of the most popular Ambassadors Great Britain ever
+sent to Paris."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a> Under the Treaty of Paris France had been allowed to keep
+the Art Treasures taken by Napoleon.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a> Talma, the celebrated tragic actor, 1763-1826.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a> On March 30th the Allies marched on Paris. They attacked
+in three divisions&mdash;the Silesian army on the side of Montmartre, Prince
+Eugene of Wurtemberg and Barclay de Tolly by Pantin and Romainville, the
+Crown Prince of Wurtemberg by Vincennes and Charenton. Marmont
+surrendered the same day.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_46_46" id="Footnote_46_46"></a><a href="#FNanchor_46_46"><span class="label">[46]</span></a> R�gnaud St. Jean d'Ang�ly, 1762-1819.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_47_47" id="Footnote_47_47"></a><a href="#FNanchor_47_47"><span class="label">[47]</span></a> Abai Reny Just Haiiy, 1743-1822.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_48_48" id="Footnote_48_48"></a><a href="#FNanchor_48_48"><span class="label">[48]</span></a> Dum�ril, naturalist and professor.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_49_49" id="Footnote_49_49"></a><a href="#FNanchor_49_49"><span class="label">[49]</span></a> Marmont, 1774-1852, Duc de Raguse. The defence of Paris
+had been left in his hands by Napoleon, and his surrender to the Allies
+was the finishing stroke which forced Napoleon to abdicate.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_50_50" id="Footnote_50_50"></a><a href="#FNanchor_50_50"><span class="label">[50]</span></a> Lafayette, 1757-1834, Liberal general and politician.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_51_51" id="Footnote_51_51"></a><a href="#FNanchor_51_51"><span class="label">[51]</span></a> Madame R�camier, 1777-1849, a famous beauty. She had held
+a "salon" at Paris in the early days of the Empire, but had been exiled
+in 1811 and had just returned (June, 1814).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_52_52" id="Footnote_52_52"></a><a href="#FNanchor_52_52"><span class="label">[52]</span></a> Auguste de Sta�l, 1790-1827.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_53_53" id="Footnote_53_53"></a><a href="#FNanchor_53_53"><span class="label">[53]</span></a> Mademoiselle de Sta�l, married the Duc de Broglie.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_54_54" id="Footnote_54_54"></a><a href="#FNanchor_54_54"><span class="label">[54]</span></a> Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle and Rector of St. George's,
+Hanover Square; d. 1844.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_55_55" id="Footnote_55_55"></a><a href="#FNanchor_55_55"><span class="label">[55]</span></a> William Wilberforce, 1759-1833; distinguished among the
+promoters of Negro Emancipation and the Abolition of the Slave Trade.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_56_56" id="Footnote_56_56"></a><a href="#FNanchor_56_56"><span class="label">[56]</span></a> Dumolard, 1766-1820; a French politician, a prominent
+figure in the Chamber of Representatives under the first Restoration.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_57_57" id="Footnote_57_57"></a><a href="#FNanchor_57_57"><span class="label">[57]</span></a> Eug�ne Beauharnais, 1780-1824, Viceroy of Italy, 1805-15.
+Son of Jos�phine by her first marriage with the Vicomte de Beauharnais.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_58_58" id="Footnote_58_58"></a><a href="#FNanchor_58_58"><span class="label">[58]</span></a> After the Second Restoration Prince Eug�ne Beauharnais
+sold Malmaison and removed its gallery of pictures to Munich.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_59_59" id="Footnote_59_59"></a><a href="#FNanchor_59_59"><span class="label">[59]</span></a> Duc d'Enghien, 1772-1804, son of the Duc de Bourbon. Shot
+at Vincennes by order of Napoleon when First Consul, under the pretext
+that he had conspired against him.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_60_60" id="Footnote_60_60"></a><a href="#FNanchor_60_60"><span class="label">[60]</span></a> Marmont lost his arm at the battle of Salamanca in 1812.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_61_61" id="Footnote_61_61"></a><a href="#FNanchor_61_61"><span class="label">[61]</span></a> Jourdan, General, 1762-1833.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_62_62" id="Footnote_62_62"></a><a href="#FNanchor_62_62"><span class="label">[62]</span></a> Duc de Treviso, Marshal Mortier, 1768-1835.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_63_63" id="Footnote_63_63"></a><a href="#FNanchor_63_63"><span class="label">[63]</span></a> Duc de Conegliano, Marshal Moncey, 1754-1842. He defended
+the walls of Paris as Major-General of the National Guard and laid down
+his arms only after the Capitulation was signed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_64_64" id="Footnote_64_64"></a><a href="#FNanchor_64_64"><span class="label">[64]</span></a> Serurier, General, 1742-1819.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_65_65" id="Footnote_65_65"></a><a href="#FNanchor_65_65"><span class="label">[65]</span></a> Perignan, General, 1754-1819.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_66_66" id="Footnote_66_66"></a><a href="#FNanchor_66_66"><span class="label">[66]</span></a> Ney, Prince de la Moskowa, Duc d'Elchingen, 1769-1815, "Le
+Brave des Braves." He swore allegiance to Louis XVIII., but returned to
+Napoleon in 1815, fought under him at Waterloo, and was shot for treason
+under the Second Restoration.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_67_67" id="Footnote_67_67"></a><a href="#FNanchor_67_67"><span class="label">[67]</span></a> Duc d'Istria, Bessi�res, Commander of the Old Guard.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_68_68" id="Footnote_68_68"></a><a href="#FNanchor_68_68"><span class="label">[68]</span></a> Davoust, Prince d'Eckmuhl. In 1814 the unfortunate city of
+Hamburg was still suffering under the unrelenting severity of Davoust,
+who had appointed a commission having the power of condemning to death
+all persons who used inflammatory speeches to exasperate the soldiers or
+the inhabitants.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_69_69" id="Footnote_69_69"></a><a href="#FNanchor_69_69"><span class="label">[69]</span></a> Victor, Duc de Belluno, 1764-1841.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_70_70" id="Footnote_70_70"></a><a href="#FNanchor_70_70"><span class="label">[70]</span></a> Lefebre, Duc de Dantzig, 1755-1820.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_71_71" id="Footnote_71_71"></a><a href="#FNanchor_71_71"><span class="label">[71]</span></a> Berthier, Prince de Wagram, 1753-1815, Chief of the Staff.
+A close friend of Napoleon from 1796 onwards. He escaped to Bamberg in
+1815 in hopes of remaining neutral, but was killed there by the
+emissaries of a secret society.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_72_72" id="Footnote_72_72"></a><a href="#FNanchor_72_72"><span class="label">[72]</span></a> Murat, 1778-1815, King of Naples and husband of Caroline
+Bonaparte. He had concluded a treaty with Austria against Napoleon in
+January, 1814. He was shot in Calabria in 1815.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_73_73" id="Footnote_73_73"></a><a href="#FNanchor_73_73"><span class="label">[73]</span></a> Mass�na, Duc de Rivoli, 1758-1817. "The favoured child of
+victory."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_74_74" id="Footnote_74_74"></a><a href="#FNanchor_74_74"><span class="label">[74]</span></a> Soult, Duc de Dalmatie, 1769-1861. He decided the victory
+of Austerlitz.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_75_75" id="Footnote_75_75"></a><a href="#FNanchor_75_75"><span class="label">[75]</span></a> Edridge, portrait painter, 1769-1821.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_76_76" id="Footnote_76_76"></a><a href="#FNanchor_76_76"><span class="label">[76]</span></a> Duke de Berri, second son of the Comte d'Artois,
+afterwards Charles X., 1778-1820. He married Caroline of Naples, and was
+the father of the Comte de Chambord. He was assassinated by Louvel on
+the steps of the Opera House at Paris in 1820.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_77_77" id="Footnote_77_77"></a><a href="#FNanchor_77_77"><span class="label">[77]</span></a> General Du Pont, 1759-1838.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_78_78" id="Footnote_78_78"></a><a href="#FNanchor_78_78"><span class="label">[78]</span></a> Eldest son of Edward Stanley, b. 1811.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_79_79" id="Footnote_79_79"></a><a href="#FNanchor_79_79"><span class="label">[79]</span></a> Soissons had been taken in February by the Russians under
+Winzengerode.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_80_80" id="Footnote_80_80"></a><a href="#FNanchor_80_80"><span class="label">[80]</span></a> E. D. Davenport, Esq., of Capesthorne, Cheshire,
+1778-1847.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_81_81" id="Footnote_81_81"></a><a href="#FNanchor_81_81"><span class="label">[81]</span></a> May, 1813.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_82_82" id="Footnote_82_82"></a><a href="#FNanchor_82_82"><span class="label">[82]</span></a> October, 1813.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_83_83" id="Footnote_83_83"></a><a href="#FNanchor_83_83"><span class="label">[83]</span></a> Subsequent accounts which I heard proved that this second
+account was nearer the truth than the first (E. Stanley).</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_84_84" id="Footnote_84_84"></a><a href="#FNanchor_84_84"><span class="label">[84]</span></a> Queen Louise, <i>n�e</i> Princess of Mecklenburg Strelitz.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_85_85" id="Footnote_85_85"></a><a href="#FNanchor_85_85"><span class="label">[85]</span></a> Grand Duke Constantine, brother of Czar Alexander,
+1779-1831.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_86_86" id="Footnote_86_86"></a><a href="#FNanchor_86_86"><span class="label">[86]</span></a> Lady Catherine North, sister of Lady Sheffield, married
+1786, Sylvester Douglas, Lord Glenbervie.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_87_87" id="Footnote_87_87"></a><a href="#FNanchor_87_87"><span class="label">[87]</span></a> Hon. F. North, fifth Earl of Guilford.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_88_88" id="Footnote_88_88"></a><a href="#FNanchor_88_88"><span class="label">[88]</span></a> Marshal Macdonald, 1765-1840.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_89_89" id="Footnote_89_89"></a><a href="#FNanchor_89_89"><span class="label">[89]</span></a> General Maison, 1771-1840, one of the most faithful of
+Napoleon's generals.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_90_90" id="Footnote_90_90"></a><a href="#FNanchor_90_90"><span class="label">[90]</span></a> This disastrous expedition to attack Antwerp sailed under
+the Earl of Chatham, July 20, 1809, and ended in total failure. The
+troops were withdrawn in December, 1809.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_91_91" id="Footnote_91_91"></a><a href="#FNanchor_91_91"><span class="label">[91]</span></a> Sir Thomas Graham, 1748-1843, afterwards Lord Lynedoch.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_92_92" id="Footnote_92_92"></a><a href="#FNanchor_92_92"><span class="label">[92]</span></a> Louis Buonaparte, third brother of Napoleon, 1778-1846;
+King of Holland, 1806-1813.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_93_93" id="Footnote_93_93"></a><a href="#FNanchor_93_93"><span class="label">[93]</span></a> A novel by Lady Morgan.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_94_94" id="Footnote_94_94"></a><a href="#FNanchor_94_94"><span class="label">[94]</span></a> F. North, afterwards 5th Earl of Guilford.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_95_95" id="Footnote_95_95"></a><a href="#FNanchor_95_95"><span class="label">[95]</span></a> A member of the Directory.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_96_96" id="Footnote_96_96"></a><a href="#FNanchor_96_96"><span class="label">[96]</span></a> In the neighbourhood of Lyons.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_97_97" id="Footnote_97_97"></a><a href="#FNanchor_97_97"><span class="label">[97]</span></a> The defeat of the British Flotilla by the Americans in
+September, 1814.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_98_98" id="Footnote_98_98"></a><a href="#FNanchor_98_98"><span class="label">[98]</span></a> Ferdinand VII., b. 1784, d. 1833.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_99_99" id="Footnote_99_99"></a><a href="#FNanchor_99_99"><span class="label">[99]</span></a> Daughter of the Duke of Saxe Coburg; married in 1796 to
+the Grand Duke Constantine of Russia.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_100_100" id="Footnote_100_100"></a><a href="#FNanchor_100_100"><span class="label">[100]</span></a> Daughter of the second Earl of Guilford: married, 1800,
+John, son of Earl of Balcarres; d. 1849.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_101_101" id="Footnote_101_101"></a><a href="#FNanchor_101_101"><span class="label">[101]</span></a> Son of Lord Glenbervie, and nephew of Lord Sheffield.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_102_102" id="Footnote_102_102"></a><a href="#FNanchor_102_102"><span class="label">[102]</span></a> General Clarke, 1765-1818. He took part in the
+negotiations for the Treaty of Campo Formio in 1797. He was made Duc de
+Feltre for his services against the English at Walcheren. He accepted
+service under Louis XVIII., and was his Minister of War, 1815-1816.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_103_103" id="Footnote_103_103"></a><a href="#FNanchor_103_103"><span class="label">[103]</span></a> Marshal Macdonald (made Duc de Tarente after the battle
+of Wagram, 1809), b. 1765, d. 1840. He did not join Napoleon during the
+Hundred Days, but refused employment under the King, and served only as
+a simple soldier in the National Guard.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_104_104" id="Footnote_104_104"></a><a href="#FNanchor_104_104"><span class="label">[104]</span></a> Edward Leycester had inherited in December, 1815, the
+fortune of his cousin, Lady Penrhyn, who directed in her will that he
+should assume the name of Penrhyn. He married, in 1823, Lady Charlotte
+Stanley, daughter of the 14th Earl of Derby.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_105_105" id="Footnote_105_105"></a><a href="#FNanchor_105_105"><span class="label">[105]</span></a> Lord Pevensey, son of Earl of Sheffield.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_106_106" id="Footnote_106_106"></a><a href="#FNanchor_106_106"><span class="label">[106]</span></a> Panorama by Barker, shown in London.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_107_107" id="Footnote_107_107"></a><a href="#FNanchor_107_107"><span class="label">[107]</span></a> Married Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., the Arctic navigator,
+1826.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_108_108" id="Footnote_108_108"></a><a href="#FNanchor_108_108"><span class="label">[108]</span></a> Allusions to the characters in "Guy Mannering."</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_109_109" id="Footnote_109_109"></a><a href="#FNanchor_109_109"><span class="label">[109]</span></a> John Scott, painter, 1774-1828.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_110_110" id="Footnote_110_110"></a><a href="#FNanchor_110_110"><span class="label">[110]</span></a> Hougoumont was occupied by Byng's Brigade, and resisted
+the repeated attacks of the French throughout the battle.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_111_111" id="Footnote_111_111"></a><a href="#FNanchor_111_111"><span class="label">[111]</span></a> Napoleon's army, on the day of Waterloo, occupied the
+plateau of La Belle Alliance.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_112_112" id="Footnote_112_112"></a><a href="#FNanchor_112_112"><span class="label">[112]</span></a> A farm occupied by the King's German Legion under Major
+Baring; after a gallant resistance captured by the French at 4 o'clock
+on June 18th.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_113_113" id="Footnote_113_113"></a><a href="#FNanchor_113_113"><span class="label">[113]</span></a> Wellington watched the battle from the shade of an
+elm-tree, which was afterwards sold to an Englishman, who made the wood
+into boxes and sold them as memorials.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_114_114" id="Footnote_114_114"></a><a href="#FNanchor_114_114"><span class="label">[114]</span></a> General Bertrand, 1773-1844; fought in Egypt and
+distinguished himself at Austerlitz and in the campaigns of Wagram and
+Moscow. He followed Napoleon to Elba and to St. Helena.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_115_115" id="Footnote_115_115"></a><a href="#FNanchor_115_115"><span class="label">[115]</span></a> Inn at Alderley.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_116_116" id="Footnote_116_116"></a><a href="#FNanchor_116_116"><span class="label">[116]</span></a> Sir George Scovell, 1774-1861, General. He fought in the
+Peninsula and at Waterloo.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_117_117" id="Footnote_117_117"></a><a href="#FNanchor_117_117"><span class="label">[117]</span></a> Sir Lowry Cole, second son of first Earl of Enniskillen,
+General of 4th Division at the Battle of Salamanca. He received the
+thanks of both Houses of Parliament for his gallant services in the
+Peninsula. Commanded 6th Division at Waterloo.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_118_118" id="Footnote_118_118"></a><a href="#FNanchor_118_118"><span class="label">[118]</span></a> Comte d'Artois, afterwards King Charles X.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_119_119" id="Footnote_119_119"></a><a href="#FNanchor_119_119"><span class="label">[119]</span></a> Daughter of Louis XVI.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_120_120" id="Footnote_120_120"></a><a href="#FNanchor_120_120"><span class="label">[120]</span></a> Caroline of Naples.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_121_121" id="Footnote_121_121"></a><a href="#FNanchor_121_121"><span class="label">[121]</span></a> Michael Bruce, one of the Englishmen who helped Lavalette
+to escape from prison. He was known as Lavalette's Bruce. He had
+previously tried to save Ney. Major-General Wilson and Captain
+Hutchinson were also concerned in Lavalette's escape.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_122_122" id="Footnote_122_122"></a><a href="#FNanchor_122_122"><span class="label">[122]</span></a> Denon (1747-1825), a member of the Acad�mic de Peinture.
+He made sketches in Egypt for Napoleon, quietly finishing them on the
+battlefield. He directed the Emperor what objects of art he should take
+from various countries to enrich the Louvre. Napoleon made him
+Directeur-G�n�ral of Museums.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_123_123" id="Footnote_123_123"></a><a href="#FNanchor_123_123"><span class="label">[123]</span></a> Abb� Roch Ambroise Sicard, founder of deaf and dumb
+school at Paris, 1742-1822.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_124_124" id="Footnote_124_124"></a><a href="#FNanchor_124_124"><span class="label">[124]</span></a> Lab�doy�re, General (1786-1815). Shot at Grenelle, 1815.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_125_125" id="Footnote_125_125"></a><a href="#FNanchor_125_125"><span class="label">[125]</span></a> French poet and Academician, 1738-1813.</p></div>
+</div>
+
+
+<hr />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Before and after Waterloo
+       Letters from Edward Stanley, sometime Bishop of Norwich (1802;1814;1814)
+
+Author: Edward Stanley
+
+Editor: Jane H. Adeane And Maud Grenfell
+
+Release Date: November 29, 2009 [EBook #30564]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Chuck Greif and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images available at Bibliotheque nationale
+de France (http://gallica.bnf.fr) and The Internet Archive
+(http://www.archive.org).
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: book's cover]
+
+
+
+
+BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO
+
+[Illustration: _Le courier du Rhin perd tout en revenant de la foire de
+Leipsig._]
+
+
+
+
+BEFORE AND AFTER WATERLOO
+
+LETTERS
+
+FROM
+
+EDWARD STANLEY
+
+SOMETIME BISHOP OF NORWICH
+
+(1802; 1814; 1816)
+
+EDITED BY JANE H. ADEANE AND MAUD GRENFELL
+
+LONDON
+
+T. FISHER UNWIN
+
+ADELPHI TERRACE
+MCMVII
+
+(_All rights reserved._)
+
+ECHOES OF PAST DAYS
+
+AT
+
+ALDERLEY RECTORY
+
+[Illustration: _Edward Stanley D.D._
+
+_Bishop of Norwich_
+
+_n. 1780 ob. 1849_]
+
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+                                                                 PAGE
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY                               9
+
+CHAPTER I
+NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE                                          25
+
+CHAPTER II
+AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL                                              73
+
+CHAPTER III
+UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG                                             97
+
+CHAPTER IV
+ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY                                   144
+
+CHAPTER V
+THE LOW COUNTRIES                                                 199
+
+CHAPTER VI
+THE WATERLOO YEAR                                                 235
+
+CHAPTER VII
+AFTER WATERLOO                                                    247
+
+_The originals of most of the letters now published are, with the
+drawings that illustrate them, at Llanfawr, Holyhead._
+
+_Some extracts from these letters have already appeared in the "Early
+Married Life of Maria Josepha, Lady Stanley," but are here inserted
+again by kind permission of Messrs. Longman, and complete Bishop
+Stanley's correspondence._
+
+_Portions of letters quoted in Dean Stanley's volume, "Edward and
+Catherine Stanley," have also been used with Messrs. Murray's consent._
+
+_In addition to the MSS. at Llanfawr, Lord Stanley of Alderley has
+kindly contributed some original letters in his possession._
+
+_J.H.A._
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+"LE COURIER DU RHIN"                                   _Frontispiece_
+
+_Sketch brought to England 1814 by General Scott of Thorpe,
+one of the detenus in France for ten years after the rupture
+of the Peache of Amiens, mentioned page 73._
+
+BISHOP STANLEY                                       _To face page_ 2
+
+_By John Linnell. From a drawing in the possession of
+Canon J. Hugh Way, Henbury._
+
+MARGARET OWEN, LADY STANLEY                              "         10
+
+_From a miniature in the possession of Lady Reade-Carreglwyd,
+Anglesey._
+
+"FLIGHT OF INTELLECT"                                    "         17
+
+_Humorous sketch by E. Stanley._
+
+EDWARD STANLEY, 1800                                     "         25
+
+_By P. Green. The original in the possession of Lord Stanley
+of Alderley, at Penrhos, Anglesey._
+
+THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE                                 "         31
+
+_Sketch by E. Stanley, 1802._
+
+THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SAONE                       "         43
+
+_Sketch by E. Stanley,_
+
+LORD SHEFFIELD                                           "         73
+
+_By Sir Joshua Reynolds, P.R.A. From an engraving in the
+possession of J.H. Adeane, Lanfavar, Holyhead._
+
+KITTY LEYCESTER, MRS. EDWARD STANLEY                     "         82
+
+_From a drawing by H. Edridge, A.R.A., at Alderley Park,
+Cheshire._
+
+PARIS, 1814. OLD BRIDGE AND CHATELET                     "        108
+
+_E. Stanley._
+
+PARIS, LA POMPE, NOTRE DAME                              "        115
+
+_E. S._
+
+PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS                                      "        141
+
+_E. S._
+
+THE CATACOMBS, PARIS                                     "        143
+
+_E. S._
+
+LAON. HOUSES AND TOWER, 1814                             "        161
+
+_E. S._
+
+BERRY AU BAC                                             "        164
+
+_E. S._
+
+VERDUN. BRIDGE                                           "        168
+
+_E. Stanley._
+
+FRENCH DILIGENCE                                         "        193
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH SHIPS                                              "        199
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT                          "        219
+
+_E. S._
+
+GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME                "        223
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH TABLE D'HOTE                                       "        226
+
+_E. S._
+
+OLD HOUSES, SAARDAM                                      "        228
+
+_E. S._
+
+PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM                         "        230
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH FISHERMEN                                          "        233
+
+_E. S._
+
+DUTCH CARRIAGE                                           "        234
+
+_E. S._
+
+CORN MILLS AT VERNON                                     "        247
+
+_E. S._
+
+FRENCH CABRIOLET                                         "        260
+
+_E. S._
+
+HOUGOUMONT                                               "        263
+
+_E. S._
+
+INTERIOR OF HOUGOUMONT                                   "        265
+
+_E. S._
+
+LA BELLE ALLIANCE                                        "        267
+
+_E. S._
+
+WATERLOO                                                 "        270
+
+_E. S._
+
+GHENT. ST. NICHOLAS                                      "        274
+
+_E. S._
+
+PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO            "        276
+
+_E. S._
+
+PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS                "        300
+
+_E. S._
+
+THE GREAT GREEN COACH                                    "        306
+
+_E. S._
+
+ALDERLEY RECTORY                                           _page_ 308
+
+
+
+
+BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH OF EDWARD STANLEY
+
+
+The letters which are collected in this volume were written from abroad
+during the opening years of the nineteenth century, at three different
+periods: after the Peace of Amiens in 1802 and 1803, after the Peace of
+Paris in 1814, and in the year following Waterloo, June, 1816.
+
+The writer, Edward Stanley, was for thirty-three years an active country
+clergyman, and for twelve years more a no less active bishop, at a time
+when such activity was uncommon, though not so rare as is sometimes now
+supposed.
+
+Although a member of one of the oldest Cheshire families, he did not
+share the opinions of his county neighbours on public questions, and his
+voice was fearlessly raised on behalf of causes which are now
+triumphant, and against abuses which are now forgotten, but which
+acutely needed champions and reformers a hundred years ago.
+
+His foreign journeys, and more especially the first of them, had a large
+share in determining the opinions which he afterwards maintained against
+great opposition from many of his own class and profession. The sight of
+France still smarting under the effects of the Reign of Terror, and of
+other countries still sunk in Mediaevalism, helped to make him a Liberal
+with "a passion for reform and improvement, but without a passion for
+destruction."
+
+He was born in 1779, the second son and youngest child of Sir John
+Stanley, the Squire of Alderley in Cheshire, and of his wife Margaret
+Owen (the Welsh heiress of Penrhos in Holyhead Island), who was one of
+the "seven lovely Peggies," well known in Anglesey society in the middle
+of the eighteenth century.
+
+The pictures of Edward Stanley and his mother, which still hang on the
+walls of her Anglesey home, show that he inherited the brilliant Welsh
+colouring, marked eyebrows and flashing dark eyes that gave force as
+well as beauty to her face. From her, too, came the romantic Celtic
+imagination and fiery energy which enabled him to find interests
+everywhere, and to make his mark in a career which was not the one he
+would have chosen.
+
+[Illustration: _Margaret Owen, Lady Stanley.
+
+n. 1742 ob. 1816._]
+
+"In early years" (so his son the Dean of Westminster records) "he had
+acquired a passion for the sea, which he cherished down to the time of
+his entrance at college, and which never left him through life. It first
+originated, as he believed, in the delight which he experienced, when
+between three and four years of age, on a visit to the seaport of
+Weymouth; and long afterwards he retained a vivid recollection of the
+point where he caught the first sight of a ship, and shed tears because
+he was not allowed to go on board. So strongly was he possessed by the
+feeling thus acquired, that as a child he used to leave his bed and
+sleep on the shelf of a wardrobe, for the pleasure of imagining himself
+in a berth on board a man-of-war.... The passion was overruled by
+circumstances beyond his control, but it gave a colour to his whole
+after-life. He never ceased to retain a keen interest in everything
+relating to the navy.... He seemed instinctively to know the history,
+character, and state of every ship and every officer in the service. Old
+naval captains were often astonished at finding in him a more accurate
+knowledge than their own of when, where, how, and under whom, such and
+such vessels had been employed. The stories of begging impostors
+professing to be shipwrecked seamen were detected at once by his
+cross-examinations. The sight of a ship, the society of sailors, the
+embarkation on a voyage, were always sufficient to inspirit and delight
+him wherever he might be."
+
+His life, when at his mother's home on the Welsh coast, only increased
+this liking, and till he went to Cambridge in 1798 his education had not
+been calculated to prepare him for a clerical life. He never received
+any instruction in classics; of Greek and Latin and mathematics he knew
+nothing, and owing to his schools and tutors being constantly changed,
+his general knowledge was of a desultory sort.
+
+His force of character, great perseverance and ambition to excel are
+shown in the strenuous manner in which he overcame all these obstacles,
+and at the close of his college career at St. John's, Cambridge, became
+a wrangler in the Mathematical Tripos of 1802.
+
+After a year passed in foreign travel Edward Stanley returned home at
+his brother's request, and took command of the Alderley Volunteers--a
+corps of defence raised by him on the family estate in expectation of a
+French invasion.
+
+In 1803 he was ordained and became curate of Windlesham, in Surrey.
+There he remained until he was presented by his father in 1805 to the
+living of Alderley, where he threw himself enthusiastically into his
+work.
+
+Alderley parish had long been neglected, and there was plenty of scope
+for the young Rector.
+
+Before he came, the clerk used to go to the churchyard stile to see
+whether there were any more coming to church, for there were seldom
+enough to make a congregation, but before Edward Stanley left, his
+parish was one of the best organised of the day. He set on foot schemes
+of education throughout the county as well as at Alderley, and was
+foremost in all reforms.
+
+The Chancellor of the diocese wrote of him: "He inherited from his
+family strong Whig principles, which he always retained, and he never
+shrank from advocating those maxims of toleration which at that time
+formed the chief watchwords of the Whig party."
+
+He was the first who distinctly saw and boldly advocated the advantages
+of general education for the people, and set the example of the extent
+to which general knowledge might be communicated in a parochial school.
+
+"To analyse the actual effects of his ministrations on the people would
+be difficult, ... but the general result was what might have been
+expected. Dissent was all but extinguished. The church was filled, the
+communicants many."
+
+He helped to found a Clerical Society, which promoted friendly
+intercourse with clergy holding various views, and was never afraid of
+avowing his opinions on subjects he thought vital, lest he should in
+consequence become unpopular.
+
+He grudged no trouble about anything he undertook, and the people
+rejoiced when they heard "the short, quick tramp of his horse's feet as
+he went galloping up their lanes." The sick were visited and cheered,
+and the children kindly cared for in and out of school.
+
+It was said of him that "whenever there was a drunken fight in the
+village and he knew of it, he would always come out to stop it--there
+was such a spirit in him."
+
+Tidings were once brought to him of a riotous crowd, which had assembled
+to witness a desperate prize fight, adjourned to the outskirts of his
+parish, and which the respectable inhabitants were unable to disperse.
+"The whole field" (so one of the humbler neighbours represented it) "was
+filled and all the trees round about, when in about a quarter of an hour
+I saw the Rector coming up the road on his little black horse as quick
+as lightning, and I trembled for fear they should harm him. He rode
+into the field and just looked round as if he thought the same, to see
+who there was that would be on his side. But it was not needed; he rode
+into the midst of the crowd and in one moment it was all over. There was
+a great calm; the blows stopped; it was as if they would all have wished
+to cover themselves up in the earth. All from the trees they dropped
+down directly. No one said a word and all went away humbled."
+
+The next day the Rector sent for the two men, not to scold them, but to
+speak to them, and sent them each away with a Bible. The effect on the
+neighbourhood was very great, and put a stop to the practice which had
+been for some time prevalent in the adjacent districts.
+
+His influence was increased by his early knowledge of the people, and by
+the long connection of his family with the place.
+
+Two years after Edward had accepted the incumbency, his father died in
+London, but he had long before given up living in Cheshire, and Alderley
+Park had been occupied at his desire by his eldest son, afterwards Sir
+John, who had made his home there since his marriage in 1796.
+
+Both the Stanley brothers married remarkable women. Lady Maria Josepha
+Holroyd, Sir John's wife, was the elder daughter of the first Lord
+Sheffield, the friend and biographer of Gibbon, and her strong
+personality impressed every one who met her.
+
+Catherine, wife of the Rector, was the daughter of the Rev. Oswald
+Leycester, of Stoke Rectory, in Shropshire. Her father was one of the
+Leycesters of Toft House, only a few miles from Alderley, and at Toft
+most of Catherine's early years were spent. She was engaged to Edward
+Stanley before she was seventeen, but did not marry him till nearly two
+years later, in 1810.
+
+During the interval she spent some time in London with Sir John and Lady
+Maria Stanley, and in the literary society of the opening years of the
+nineteenth century she was much sought after for her charm and
+appreciativeness, and for what Sydney Smith called her "porcelain
+understanding." The wits and lions of the Miss Berrys' parties vied with
+each other in making much of her; Rogers and Scott delighted in her
+conversation--in short, every one agreed, as her sister-in-law Maria
+wrote, that "in Kitty Leycester Edward will indeed have a treasure."
+
+After her marriage she kept up with her friends by active correspondence
+and by annual visits to London. Still, "to the outside world she was
+comparatively unknown; but there was a quiet wisdom, a rare
+unselfishness, a calm discrimination, a firm decision which made her
+judgment and her influence felt through the whole circle in which she
+lived." Her power and charm, coupled with her husband's, made Alderley
+Rectory an inspiring home to their children, several of whom inherited
+talent to a remarkable degree.
+
+Her sister Maria[1] writes from Hodnet, the home of the poet Heber: "I
+want to know all you have been doing since the day that bore me away
+from happy Alderley. Oh! the charm of a rectory inhabited by a Reginald
+Heber or an Edward Stanley!"
+
+That Rectory and its surroundings have been perfectly described in the
+words of the author of "Memorials of a Quiet Life"[2]: "A low house,
+with a verandah forming a wide balcony for the upper storey, where
+bird-cages hung among the roses; its rooms and passages filled with
+pictures, books, and old carved oak furniture. In a country where the
+flat pasture lands of Cheshire rise suddenly to the rocky ridge of
+Alderley Edge, with the Holy Well under an overhanging cliff; its
+gnarled pine-trees, its storm-beaten beacon tower ready to give notice
+of an invasion, and looking far over the green plain to the smoke which
+indicates in the horizon the presence of the great manufacturing towns."
+
+There was constant intercourse between the Park and the Rectory, and the
+two families with a large circle of friends led most interesting and
+busy lives. The Rector took delight in helping his seven nieces with
+their Italian and Spanish studies, in fostering their love of poetry and
+natural history, and in developing the minds of his own young children.
+He wrote plays for them to act and birthday odes for them to recite.
+
+[Illustration: THE FLIGHT OF INTELLECT
+
+Skit on the recent discovery of the motive power of steam.--E. Stanley.
+
+_To face p. 17._]
+
+Legends of the countryside, domestic tragedies and comedies were turned
+into verse, whether it were the Cheshire legend of the Iron Gates or the
+fall of Sir John Stanley and his spectacles into the Alderley mere, the
+discovery of a butterfly or the loss of "a superfine piece of Bala
+flannel."
+
+His caricatures illustrated his droll ideas, as in his sketches of the
+six "Ologies from Entomology to Apology." His witty and graceful
+"Bustle's Banquet" or the "Dinner of the Dogs" made a trio with the
+popular poems then recently published of the "Butterfly's Ball" and "The
+Peacock at Home."
+
+    "And since Insects give Balls and Birds are so gay,
+    'Tis high time to prove that we Dogs have our day."
+
+He wrote a "Familiar History of Birds," illustrated by many personal
+observations, for throughout his life he never lost a chance of watching
+wild bird life. In his early days he had had special opportunities of
+doing so among the rocks and caverns of Holyhead Island. He tells of the
+myriads of sea-birds who used to haunt the South Stack Rock there, in
+the days when it was almost inaccessible; and of their dispersal by the
+building of the first lighthouse there in 1808, when for a time they
+deserted it and never returned in such numbers.
+
+His own family at Alderley Rectory consisted of three sons and two
+daughters.
+
+The eldest son, Owen, had his father's passion for the sea, and was
+allowed to follow his bent. His scientific tastes led him to adopt the
+surveying branch of his profession, and in 1836, when appointed to the
+_Terror_ on her expedition to the North Seas, he had charge of the
+astronomical and magnetic operations.
+
+When in command of the _Britomart_, in 1840, he secured the North Island
+of New Zealand to the English by landing and hoisting the British flag,
+having heard that a party of French emigrants intended to land that day.
+They did so, but under the protection of the Union Jack.
+
+In 1846 Owen Stanley commanded the _Rattlesnake_ in an important and
+responsible expedition to survey the unknown coast of New Guinea; this
+lasted four years and was very successful, but the great strain and the
+shock of his brother Charles' death at Hobart Town, at this time, were
+too much for him. He died suddenly on board his ship at Sydney in 1850,
+"after thirty-three years' arduous service in every clime."
+
+Professor Huxley, in whose arms he breathed his last, was surgeon to
+this expedition, and his first published composition was an article
+describing it. He speaks of Owen Stanley thus: "Of all those who were
+actively engaged upon the survey, the young commander alone was destined
+to be robbed of his just rewards; he has raised an enduring monument in
+his works, and his epitaph shall be the grateful thanks of many a
+mariner threading his way among the mazes of the Coral Seas."
+
+The second and most distinguished of the three sons was Arthur Penrhyn
+Stanley, of whom it was said "that in the wideness of his sympathies,
+the broadness of his toleration, and the generosity of his temperament
+the brilliant Dean of Westminster was a true son of his father, the
+Bishop of Norwich."
+
+The third son, Charles Edward, a young officer in the Royal Engineers,
+who had done good work in the Ordnance Survey of Wales, and was already
+high in his profession, was suddenly cut off by fever at his official
+post in Tasmania in 1849.
+
+The eldest daughter, Mary, had great powers of organisation, was a keen
+philanthropist and her father's right hand at Norwich. In 1854 she took
+charge of a detachment of nurses who followed Miss Nightingale's pioneer
+band to the East, and worked devotedly for the Crimean sick and wounded
+at the hospital at Koulalee.
+
+Katherine, the youngest daughter, a most original character, married Dr.
+Vaughan, headmaster of Harrow, Master of the Temple, and Dean of
+Llandaff. She survived her whole family and lived till 1899.
+
+The home at Alderley lasted for thirty-three years, during which Edward
+Stanley had changed the whole face of the parish and successfully
+organised many schemes of improvement in the conditions of the working
+classes in his neighbourhood. He could now leave his work to other
+hands, and felt that his energies required a wider field, so that when
+in 1838 Lord Melbourne offered him the See of Norwich he was induced to
+accept the offer, though only "after much hesitation and after a severe
+struggle, which for a time almost broke down his usual health and
+sanguine spirit."
+
+"It would be vain and useless," he said, "to speak to others of what it
+cost me to leave Alderley"; but to his new sphere he carried the same
+zeal and indomitable energy which had ever characterised him, and gained
+the affection of many who had shuddered at the appointment of a "Liberal
+Bishop."
+
+At Norwich his work was very arduous and often discouraging. He came in
+the dawn of the Victorian age to attack a wall of customs and abuses
+which had arisen far back in the early Georgian era, with no hereditary
+connection or influence in the diocese to counteract the odium that he
+incurred as a new-comer by the institution of changes which he deemed
+necessary.
+
+It was no wonder that for three or four years he had to stem a steady
+torrent of prejudice and more or less opposition; but though his
+broadminded views were often the subject of criticism, his bitterest
+opponents could not withstand the genial, kindly spirit in which he met
+their objections.
+
+"At the time of his entrance upon his office party feeling was much more
+intense than it has been in later years, and of this the county of
+Norfolk presented, perhaps, as strong examples as could be found in any
+part of the kingdom."
+
+The bishop was "a Whig in politics and a staunch supporter of a Whig
+ministry," but in all the various questions where politics and theology
+cross one another he took the free and comprehensive instead of the
+precise and exclusive views, and to impress them on others was one chief
+interest of his new position.
+
+The indifference to party which he displayed, both in social matters and
+in his dealings with his clergy, tended to alienate extreme partisans of
+whatever section, and at one time caused him even to be unpopular with
+the lower classes of Norwich in spite of his sympathies.
+
+The courage with which the Rector had quelled the prize fight at
+Alderley shone out again in the Bishop. "I remember," says an
+eye-witness, "seeing Bishop Stanley, on a memorable occasion, come out
+of the Great Hall of St. Andrew's, Norwich. The Chartist mob, who lined
+the street, saluted the active, spare little Bishop with hooting and
+groans. He came out alone and unattended till he was followed by me and
+my brother, determined, as the saying is, 'to see him safe home,' for
+the mob was highly excited and brutal. Bishop Stanley marched along ten
+yards, then turned sharp round and fixed his eagle eyes on the mob, and
+then marched ten yards more and turned round again rapidly and gave the
+same hawk-like look."
+
+His words and actions must often have been startling to his
+contemporaries; when temperance was a new cause he publicly spoke in
+support of the Roman Catholic Father Mathew, who had promoted it in
+Ireland; when the idea of any education for the masses was not
+universally accepted he advocated admitting the children of Dissenters
+to the National Schools; and when the stage had not the position it now
+holds, he dared to offer hospitality to one of the most distinguished of
+its representatives, Jenny Lind, to mark his respect for her life and
+influence.
+
+For all this he was bitterly censured, but his kindly spirit and
+friendly intercourse with his clergy smoothed the way through apparently
+insurmountable difficulties, and his powerful aid was ever at hand in
+any benevolent movement to advise and organise means of help.
+
+In his home at Norwich the Bishop and Mrs. Stanley delighted to welcome
+guests of every shade of opinion, and one of them, a member of a
+well-known Quaker family, has recorded her impression of her host's
+conversation. "The Bishop talks, darting from one subject to another,
+like one impatient of delay, amusing and pleasant," and he is described
+on coming to Norwich as having "a step as quick, a voice as firm, a
+power of enduring fatigue almost as unbroken as when he traversed his
+parish in earlier days or climbed the precipices of the Alps."
+
+In his public life the liveliness of his own interest in scientific
+pursuits, the ardour with which he would hail any new discovery, the
+vividness of his own observation of Nature would illustrate with an
+unexpected brilliancy the worn-out topics of a formal speech. Few who
+were present at the meeting when the Borneo Mission was first proposed
+to the London public in 1847 can forget the strain of naval ardour with
+which the Bishop offered his heartfelt tribute of moral respect and
+admiration to the heroic exertions of Sir James Brooke.
+
+It was his highest pleasure to bear witness to the merits or to
+contribute to the welfare of British seamen. He seized every opportunity
+of addressing them on their moral and religious duties, and many were
+the rough sailors whose eyes were dimmed with tears among the
+congregations of the crews of the _Queen_ and the _Rattlesnake_, when he
+preached on board those vessels at Plymouth, whither he had accompanied
+his eldest son, Captain Owen Stanley, to witness his embarkation on his
+last voyage.
+
+"The sermon," so the Admiral told Dean Stanley twenty years afterwards,
+"was never forgotten. The men were so crowded that they almost sat on
+one another's shoulders, with such attention and admiration that they
+could scarcely restrain a cheer."
+
+For twelve years his presence was felt as a power for good through the
+length and breadth of his diocese; and after his death, in September,
+1849, his memory was long loved and revered.
+
+"I felt as if a sunbeam had passed through my parish," wrote a clergyman
+from a remote corner of his diocese, after a visit from him, "and had
+left me to rejoice in its genial and cheerful warmth. From that day I
+would have died to serve him; and I believe that not a few of my humble
+flock were animated by the same kind of feeling."
+
+His yearly visits to his former parish of Alderley were looked forward
+to by those he had known and loved during his long parochial
+ministrations as the greatest pleasure of their lives.
+
+"I have been," he writes (in the last year of his life), "in various
+directions over the parish, visiting many welcome faces, laughing with
+the living, weeping over the dying. It is gratifying to see the cordial
+familiarity with which they receive me, and Norwich clergy would
+scarcely know me by cottage fires, talking over old times with their
+hands clasped in mine as an old and dear friend."
+
+Under the light which streams through the stained glass of his own
+cathedral the remains of Bishop Stanley rest in the thoroughfare of the
+great congregation.
+
+"When we were children," said a grey-haired Norfolk rector this very
+year, "our mother never allowed us to walk upon the stone covering
+Bishop Stanley's grave. I have never forgotten it, and would not walk
+upon it even now."
+
+    "We pass; the path that each man trod
+       Is dim, or will be dim, with weeds:
+       What fame is left for human deeds
+     In endless age? It rests with God."
+
+[Illustration: _P. Green, pinx circa 1800. Emery Walker Ph. Sc._
+
+_Edward Stanley._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I
+
+NEW FRANCE AND OLD EUROPE
+
+Rouen and its theatres--Painted windows--Paris--Costumes _a la
+Francaise_--The guillotine--Geneva--Vetturino
+travelling--Italy--Spain--The Ship _John_ of Leith--Gibraltar.
+
+
+In June, 1802, Edward Stanley started on the first of those foreign
+journeys which, throughout his life, continued to be his favourite form
+of holiday.
+
+He had just left Cambridge, having obtained a brilliant degree, and
+before taking Orders he set out with his college friend, Edward
+Hussey,[3] on the Grand Tour which was then considered necessary to
+complete a liberal education.
+
+They were fortunate in the moment of their journey, for the Treaty of
+Amiens, which had been concluded only a few months before, had enabled
+Englishmen to tour safely in France for the first time for many years;
+and every scene in France was full of thrilling interest. The marks of
+the Reign of Terror were still plainly to be seen, and the new order of
+things which the First Consul had inaugurated was only just beginning.
+
+It was an epoch-making journey to a young man fresh from college, and
+Edward Stanley was deeply impressed by what he saw.
+
+He could compare his own experiences with those of his brother and
+father, who had been in France before the Revolution, and of his
+sister-in-law, Maria Josepha, who had travelled there just before the
+Reign of Terror; and in view of the destruction which had taken place
+since then, he was evidently convinced that Napoleon's iron hand was the
+greatest boon to the country.
+
+He and his companion had the good fortune to leave France before the
+short interval of peace ended abruptly, and they were therefore saved
+from the fate of hundreds of their friends and fellow-travellers who had
+thronged across the Channel in 1802, and who were detained by Napoleon
+for years against their will.
+
+Edward Stanley and Edward Hussey left France at the end of June, and
+went on to Switzerland, Italy, and finally to Spain, where the
+difficulties and dangers which they met, reveal the extraordinary dearth
+of personal comfort and civilised habits among that nation at the time.
+
+The dangers and discomforts did not, however, interfere with the
+interest and pleasure of the writer who describes them. Then and ever
+after, travelling was Edward Stanley's delight, and he took any
+adventure in the spirit of the French song--
+
+    "Je suis touriste
+     Quel gai metier."
+
+His letters to his father and brother show that he lost no opportunity
+of getting information and of recording what he saw; and he began on
+this journey the first of a long series of sketchbooks, by which he
+illustrated his later journeys so profusely.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Father, Sir John T. Stanley, Bart._
+
+ROUEN, _June 11, 1802_.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,--You have already heard that I arrived here, & have been
+fortunate in every thing since I left England. Our passage from Brighton
+to Dieppe was short and pleasant, and so was our stay at Dieppe, which
+we left the morning after we arrived in it. I never saw France before
+the Revolution, & therefore cannot judge of the Contrasted appearance of
+its towns, but this I can safely say, that I never before saw such
+strong marks of Poverty both in the houses & Inhabitants. I have as yet
+seen nothing like a Gentleman; probably many may affect the dress and
+manners of the lower Orders, in order to screen themselves & may
+consider that an outward show of Poverty is the only way of securing
+what Riches they have. I can conceive nothing so melancholy.
+
+When I saw fine seats without Windows or with shattered Roofs, &
+everywhere falling to decay, I could not help thinking of their
+unfortunate Owners, who, even if they were lucky enough to be reinstated
+in their possessions, might fear to repair their Places, lest an
+Appearance of comfort might tempt the Government to seize their Effects.
+The only Buildings at all tolerable are the Barracks, which in general
+are large and well taken care of, & plenty of them there are in every
+town and village. Every Person is here a Soldier, ready to turn out at a
+moment's warning. This Town is in a flourishing State at present, tho'
+during the war not a single ship made its appearance in its Ports; now
+there are a great number of Vessels, chiefly Dutch. The Trade is Cotton,
+for the Manufactory of Stuffs and Handkerchiefs. It is said to be one of
+the dearest towns in France; certainly I have not found things very
+cheap. We were at the Play last night. An Opera called "La Dot," and an
+after piece called "Blaise & Bullet" were performed. The Actors were
+capital, at Drury Lane they could not have acted better. The House is
+very large for a Country Theatre and very pretty, but so shockingly
+filthy and offensive, that I wondered any Person could go often, but
+habit, I suppose, reconciles everything. There were a great many
+officers in the Boxes, a haughty set of beings, who treat their
+Compatriotes in a very scurvy way. They are the Kings of the place and
+do what they please. Indeed, we had a fine Specimen of Liberty during
+the Performances. An Actress had been sent to Rouen from Paris, a
+wretched Performer she was, but from Paris she came, and the Managers
+were obliged to accept her & make her act. The Consequence was, she soon
+got hissed, and a Note was thrown on the Stage; whatever it was they
+were not permitted to read or make it public till they had shewn it to
+the Officer of Police, who in the present Case would not let them read
+it. The hissing was, however, continued from Corners of the House, & one
+man who sate near us talked in a high style about the People being
+imposed on, when in the middle of his Speech I saw this Man of Liberty
+jump out of the Box and disappear in an Instant. I opened the Box door
+to see what was the cause, when lo! the Lobby was filled with Soldiers,
+with their Bayonets fix'd, and the officer was looking about for any
+Person who might dare to whistle or hiss, and silent and contented were
+the Audience the rest of the Performance. I cannot help mentioning a
+Speech I heard this very evening at the Play. A Man was sitting near a
+Lady & very angry he was, & attempted often to hiss, but was for some
+time kept quiet by the Lady. At last he lost all Patience and exclaimed,
+"Ma Foi, Madame, Je ferai ici comme si jetais en Angleterre ou on fait
+tout ce qu'on plait." And away he went to hiss; with what effect his
+determination a l'Angloise was attended, I have mentioned. I afterwards
+entered into conversation with the Lady, & when she told me about the
+Police Officer not giving permission to read the note, she added,
+looking at us, "to you, Gentlemen, this must be a second Comedy." Last
+night (Sunday) I went to a Fete about a mile from the Town; we paid 1s.
+3d. each. It concluded with a grand Firework. It was a sort of Vauxhall.
+In one part of the Gardens they were dancing Cotillons, in another
+swinging. In another part bands of Music. I was never so much
+entertained as with the Dancers; most of them were Children. One little
+set in a Cotillon danced in a Style I could not have fancied possible;
+you will think I am telling a _Traveller's_ Story when I tell you I
+thought they performed nearly as well as I could have seen at the Opera.
+Here, as at the Theatre, Soldiers kept every body in awe; a strong party
+of Dragoons were posted round the Gardens with their horses saddled
+close at hand ready to act. I din'd yesterday at a Table d'Hote, with
+five French Officers. In my life I never saw such ill bred Blackguards,
+dirty in their way of eating, overbearing in their Conversation, tho'
+they never condescended to address themselves to us, and more proud and
+aristocratical than any of the _ci-devant Noblesse_ could ever have
+been. From this Moment I believe all the Accounts I have heard from our
+officers of the French officers who were prisoners during the War. They
+were always insolent, and excepting in some few cases, ungratefull in
+the extreme for any kindness shewn to them.
+
+[Illustration: THE PRISON OF THE TEMPLE, PARIS, JUNE, 1802.
+
+_To face p. 31._]
+
+PARIS, _June 17th_.
+
+The Day before yesterday I arrived in this Metropolis. We left Rouen in
+a Diligence & had a pleasant Journey; the Country we passed over was
+throughout extremely fertile; whatever Scarcity exists at present in
+France, it must be of short duration, as the Harvest promises to be
+abundant, and as every Field is corn land, the quantity of Grain will be
+immense. Government has indeed now taken every precaution. The Ports of
+Rouen & Dieppe were filled with Ships from Embden & Dantzig with Corn.
+Our Diligence was accompanied all the Night by a Guard of Dragoons, and
+we passed every now and then parties of Foot Soldiers on the Watch. The
+reason was, that the road had lately been infested with Robbers, who
+attacked the Public Carriages in great numbers, sometimes to the Amount
+of 40 together. They in general behaved well to the Passengers,
+requiring only any Money belonging to Government which might happen to
+be in the Carriage. At present as the Leader is taken and the Band
+dispersed, there is no Danger, but it is a good excuse to keep a Number
+of Troops in that part of the Country. We entered Paris by St. Denis,
+but the fine Church and Royal Palace are not now as they were in your
+time. The Former is in part unroofed and considerably damaged--the
+latter is a Barrack and from its outward appearance seems to have
+suffered much in the Revolution. The City of Paris on entering it by no
+means strikes a stranger. In your time it must have been but tolerable,
+now it is worse, as every other house seems to be falling down or to be
+deserted. We have taken our abode in the Rue de Vivienne at the Hotel de
+Boston, a central Situation and the house tolerably dear. The poor
+Hussey suffered so much from a Nest of Buggs the first night, that he
+after enduring them to forage on his body for an Hour, left his Bed &
+passed the night on a sofa. A propos, I must beg to inform Mr. Hugh
+Leycester that I paid Attention to the Conveyances on the road & think
+that he will have no reason to complain of them; the vehicles are not
+quite so good as in England nor are the Horses, but both are still very
+tolerable. The Inns I slept at were very good, and the roads by no means
+bad. I have been to a Play every Night since my arrival in Paris and
+shall continue so to do till I have seen all the theatres. The first
+evening I went to the "Theatre de la Republique"; I am told it is the
+best. At least the first Actors performed there. It is not to be
+compared with any of ours in style of fitting up. The want of light
+which first strikes a Stranger's eye on entering a foreign Play-house
+has its Advantage. It shews off the Performers and induces the Audience
+to pay more Attention to ye Stage, but the brilliant Effect we are used
+to find on entering our Theatres is wanting. This House is not fitted up
+with any taste. I thought the theatre at Rouen preferable. The famous
+Talma, the Kemble, acted in a Tragedy, & Mme. Petit, the Mrs. Siddons
+of Paris, performed. The former, I think, must have seen Kemble, as he
+resembles him both in person and style of acting, but I did not admire
+him so much. In his silent Acting, however, he was very great. Mme.
+Petit acted better than any tragic Actress I have ever seen, excepting
+Mrs. Siddons. After the Play last Night I went to the Frascati, a sort
+of Vauxhall where you pay nothing on entering, but are expected to take
+some refreshments. This, Mr. Palmer told me, was the Lounge of the Beau
+Monde, who were all to be found here after the Opera & Plays. We have
+nothing of the sort in England, therefore I shall not attempt to
+describe it. We staid here about an hour. The Company was numerous, & I
+suppose the best, at least it was better than any I had seen at the
+Theatres or in the Walks, but it appeared to me to be very bad. The Men
+I shall say nothing more of, they are all the same. They come to all
+Places in dirty Neckcloths or Pocket Handkerchiefs tied round their
+necks & most of them have filthy great Coats & Boots, in short, Dress
+amongst the Bucks (& I am told that within this Month or two they are
+very much improved) seems to be quite out of the Question. As for the
+Ladies, O mon Dieu! Madame Recamier's[4] Dress at Boodles was by no
+means extraordinary. My sister can describe that and then you may form
+some idea of them. By what I can judge from outward appearance, the
+Morals of Paris must be at a very low ebb. I may perhaps see more of
+them, when I go to the Opera & Parties. I have a thousand things more to
+say, but have no room. This Letter has been written at such out of the
+way times & by little bits at a time, that I know not how you will
+connect it, but I have not a moment to spare in the regular Course of
+the Day. It is now between 6 & 7 o'Clock in the Morning, and as I cannot
+find my Cloaths am sitting in a Dress a la Mode d'une Dame Francaise
+till Charles comes up with them. Paris is full of English, amongst
+others I saw Montague Matthews at the Frascati. I shall stay here till
+5th July, as my chance of seeing Buonaparte depends on my staying till
+4th, when he reviews the Consular Guard. He is a fine fellow by all
+accounts; a Military Government when such a head as his manages
+everything cannot be called a Grievance. Indeed, it is productive of so
+much order and regularity, that I begin not to dislike it so much. At
+the Theatres you have no disturbance. In the streets Carriages are kept
+in order--in short, it is supreme and seems to suit this Country vastly
+well, but God forbid I should ever witness it in England. You may write
+to me and tell others so to do till the 25th of June. Adieu; I cannot
+tell when I shall write again. This you know is a Family Epistle,
+therefore Farewell to you all.
+
+ED. STANLEY.
+
+I have just paid a visit to Madame de D. She received me very
+graciously, & strongly pressed me to stay till 14th of July to be
+present at the Grand Day. She says Paris is not now worth seeing, but
+then every Person will be in Town. If there is no other way of seeing
+Buonaparte I believe I shall stay--but I do not wish it--I shall prefer
+Geneva.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother, J. T. Stanley._
+
+HOTEL DE BOSTON, RUE VIVIENNE,
+_June 21, 1802_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,-- ... I sailed from Brighton on the evening of 8th and
+was wafted by a fine Breeze towards this Coast, which we made early on
+the morning of 9th, but owing to the tide, which had drifted us too much
+to leeward of Dieppe, we were unable to land before noon. We were
+carried before the Officer of the municipality, who after taking down
+our names, ages, & destination, left us to ramble about at pleasure.
+Whatever Dieppe might have been before the Revolution, it is now a
+melancholy-looking place. Large houses falling to ruin. Inhabitants
+poor, Streets full of Soldiers, & Churches turned into Stables,
+Barracks, or Magazines. We staid there but one night & then proceeded in
+one of their Diligences to Rouen. These Conveyances you of course have
+often seen; they are not as Speedy in their motion as an English Mail
+Coach, or as easy as a Curricle, but we have found them very convenient,
+& shall not complain of our travelling accommodation if we are always
+fortunate enough to meet with these vehicles. At Rouen we staid four
+days, as the Town is large and well worth seeing; I then made an attempt
+to procure you some painted glass; as almost all the Churches and all
+the Convents are destroyed, their fine windows are neglected, & the
+panes broken or carried off by almost every person. The _Stable_ from
+whence our Diligence started had some beautiful windows, and had I
+thought of it in time I think I might have sent you some. As it was I
+went to the owner of the Churches & asked him if he would sell any of
+the windows. Now tho' ever since he has had possession of them Everybody
+has been permitted to demolish at pleasure, he no sooner found that a
+Stranger was anxious to procure what to him was of no value, & what he
+had hitherto thought worth nothing, than he began to think he might take
+advantage & therefore told me that he would give me an answer in a few
+days if I would wait till he could see what they were worth. As I was
+going the next morning I could not hear the result, but I think you
+could for one guinea purchase nearly a whole Church window, at least it
+may be worth your while to send to Liverpool to know if any Ship is at
+any time going there. The Proprietor of these Churches is a Banker, by
+name Tezart; he lives in la Rue aux Ours.
+
+I arrived in Paris on the 15th, and intend staying even till the 14th of
+July if I cannot before then see the chief Consul. Hitherto I have been
+unfortunate; I have in vain attended at the Thuilleries when the
+Consular guard is relieved, and seated myself opposite his box at the
+Opera. On the 4th of July, however, there is a Review of his Guard, when
+he always appears, then I shall do my utmost to get a view of him. I
+cannot be introduced as I have not been at our Court, and no King was
+ever more fond of Court Etiquette than Buonaparte. He resides in the
+Thuilleries; opposite to his windows is the place de Carousel, which he
+has Separated from the great Area by a long Iron railing with three
+Gates. On each side of the 2 side Gates are placed the famous brazen
+horses from Venice, the middle Gate has 2 Lodges, where are stationed
+Horse Guards. Above this Gate are four Gilt Spears on which are perched
+the Cock & a Civic wreath which I at first took for the Roman Eagle,
+borne before their Consuls, resembling it in every other respect. These
+Gates are shut every night and also on every Review day. Paris, like all
+the Country, swarms with Soldiers; in Every Street there is a Barrack.
+In Paris alone there are upwards of 15 thousand men. I must say nothing
+of the Government. It is highly necessary in France for every person,
+particularly Strangers, to be careful in delivering their opinions; I
+can only say that the _Slavery_ of it is infinitely more to my taste
+than the _Freedom_ of France. The public Exhibitions (and indeed almost
+Every thing is public) are on a scale of Liberality which should put
+England to the blush. Everything is open without money. The finest
+library I ever saw is open Daily to Every person. You have but to ask
+for any book, & you are furnished with it, and accommodated with table,
+pens, ink, & paper. The Louvre, the finest Collection of pictures and
+Statues in the world, is likewise open, & not merely open to view. It is
+filled, excepting on the public days, with artists who are at liberty to
+copy anything they please. Where in England can we boast of anything
+like this? Our British Museum is only to be seen by interest, & then
+shewn in a very cursory manner. Our Public Libraries at the Universities
+are equally difficult of access. It is the most politic thing the
+Government could have done. The Arts are here encouraged in a most
+liberal manner. Authors, Painters, Sculptors, and, in short, all persons
+in France, have opportunities of improving themselves which can not be
+found in any other Country in the World, not even in Britain. You may
+easily conceive that I who am fond of painting was most highly
+Entertained in viewing the Great Gallery of the Louvre, & yet you will,
+I am sure, think my taste very deficient when I tell you that I do not
+admire the finest pictures of Raphael, Titian, Guido, and Paul Veronese,
+so much as I do those of Rubens, Vandyck, & le Brun, nor the landscapes
+of Claude and Poussin so much as Vernet's. Rembrandt, Gerard Dow & his
+pupils Mieris and Metsu please me more than any other artists. In the
+whole Collection they have but one of Salvator's, but that one, I think,
+is preferable to all Raphael's. I have not yet seen statues enough to be
+judge of their beauties. The Apollo of Belvidere & the celebrated
+Laocoon lose, therefore, much of their Excellence when seen by me. There
+is still a fine Collection in the Palace of Versailles, but the view of
+that once Royal Palace excites the most melancholy ideas. The furniture
+was all sold by auction, & nothing is left but the walls and their
+pictures. The Gardens are much neglected, & will soon, unless the Consul
+again makes it a royal residence, be quite ruined. You have, I daresay,
+often heard that the Morals & Society of Paris were very bad; indeed,
+you have heard nothing but the truth. As for the men, they are the
+dirtiest set of fellows I ever saw, and most of them, especially the
+Officers, very unlike Gentlemen. The dress of the women, with few
+exceptions, is highly indecent; in London, even in Drury Lane, I have
+seen few near so bad. Before I left England, I had heard, but never
+believed, that some Ladies paraded the streets in men's Clothes. It is
+singular that in the first genteel-looking person I spoke to in Paris to
+ask my way, I was answered by what I then perceived a lady in Breeches &
+boots, since when I have seen several at the Theatres, at the Frascati &
+fashionable lounges of the evening, & in the Streets and public walks! I
+have not heard from you since I left England. Excepting the letter which
+was forwarded from Grosvenor Place. I hope to hear at Geneva, where I
+shall go as soon as the great Consul will permit me by shewing himself.
+The Country is in the finest state possible, and their weather most
+favourable. They have had a scarcity of corn lately, but the approaching
+Harvest will most assuredly remove that. Adieu; I hope Mrs. Stanley has
+already received a very trifling present from me; I only sent it because
+it was classic wood. I mean the necklace made of Milton's mulberry-tree.
+I brought the wood from Christ's College Garden, in Cambridge, where
+Milton himself planted it.
+
+Believe me,
+
+Yours sincerely,
+
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+_From Edward Stanley to his Father and Mother._
+
+LYONS, _July 20, 1802_.
+
+I shall not write you a very long letter as I intend to send you a more
+particular account of myself from Geneva, for which place we propose
+setting out to-morrow, not by the Diligence, but by the Vetturino, a
+mode of travelling which, of course, you are well acquainted with, being
+the usual and almost only method practised throughout Italy unless a
+person has his own carriage. I am to pay L3 10s. for ourselves and
+Suite, but not including bed and provisions. South of the Alps these are
+agreed for.
+
+After every endeavour to see Buonaparte had proved vain, on the 6th of
+July we quitted Paris in a Cabriolet. All this night, and especially
+the next day, we thought we should be broiled to death; the thermometer
+was at 95 the noon of July 7th; as you relish that, you may have some
+idea of the Luxury you would have enjoyed with us.
+
+We arrived at Troyes on the evening of the 7th, an old town in
+Champagne. People civil and excellent Living, as the Landlord was a
+_ci-devant_ Head cook to a convent of Benedictines, but Hussey and
+Charles were almost devoured in the Night by our old enemies the Bugs.
+Hussey was obliged to change his room and sleep all next day. I escaped
+without the least visit, and I am persuaded that if a famine wasted the
+Bugs of the whole Earth, they would sooner perish than touch me.
+
+We left Troyes early on the morning of the 9th, arrived at Chatillon at
+four, and stayed there all night, for the Diligences do not travel so
+fast as in England. We left it at four the next morning, Hussey, as
+usual smarting, and I very little refreshed by sleep, as owing to a
+Compound of Ducks and Chickens who kept up a constant chorus within five
+yards of my bed, a sad noise in the kitchen from which I was barely
+separated, Dogs barking, Waggon Bells ringing, &c., I could scarcely
+close my eyes.
+
+At Dijon, beautiful Dijon, we arrived on the Evening of the 10th. Had I
+known it had been so sweet a Town I should have stayed longer, but we
+had taken our places to Chalons and were obliged to pass on. You, I
+believe, staid some time there, but, alas! how different now! The Army
+of rescue was encamped for some time in its neighbourhood, and the many
+respectable families who lived in or near it rendered it a sad prey to
+the hand of Robespierre. Its Churches and Convents are in a deplorable
+state, even as those of this still more unfortunate Town. The best
+Houses are shut up, and its finest Buildings are occupied by the
+Military. We left on the morning of the 11th, travelled safely (except a
+slight breakdown at our journey's end) to Chalons sur Saone, and on the
+11th went by the water-diligence to Macon, where we stopped to sleep. We
+arrived at dusk, and as we were in a dark staircase exploring our way
+and speaking English, we heard a voice say, "This way, Sir; here is the
+supper." We were quite rejoiced to hear an English voice, particularly
+in such a place.
+
+We soon met the speaker, and passed a most pleasant Hour with him. He
+proved to be a Passenger like ourselves in the Diligence from Lyons
+which met ours here at the Common resting-place. He was a Surgeon of the
+Staff, returning from Egypt, by name Shute. We all three talked
+together, and as loud as we could; the Company, I believe, thought us
+strange Beings. We told him what we could of England in a short time, he
+of the South, and we exchanged every Species of information, and were
+sorry when it was necessary to part.
+
+[Illustration: THE GUILLOTINE AT CHALON-SUR-SAONE.
+
+_To face p. 43._]
+
+We arrived at Lyons on the 14th, the Day of the Grand Fete. We saw the
+Town Hall illuminated, and a Review on the melancholy Plains of
+Buttereaux, the common Tomb of so many Lyonnese. Here we have remained
+since, but shall probably be at Geneva on the 23rd. I lodge at the Hotel
+de Parc looking into the Place de Ferreant.
+
+The Landlady, to my great surprise, spoke to me in English very
+fluently. She is also a very excellent Spaniard. She has seen better
+days, her husband having been a Merchant, but the Revolution destroyed
+him. She was Prisoner for some time at Liverpool, taken by a Privateer
+belonging to Tarleton and Rigge, who, I am sorry to say, did not behave
+quite so handsomely as they should, the private property not having been
+restored.
+
+Of all the Towns I have seen this has suffered most. All the Chateaux
+and Villas in its most beautiful Environs are shut up. The fine Square
+of St. Louis le Grand, then Belle Cour, now Place Buonaparte, is knocked
+to pieces; the fine Statue is broken and removed, and nothing left that
+could remind you of what it was.
+
+I have been witness to a scene which, of course, my curiosity as a
+Traveller would not let me pass over, but which I hope not to see
+again--an Execution on the Guillotine. Charles saw a man suffer at
+Chalons; we did not know till it was over, but the Machine was still
+standing, and the marks of the Execution very recent. On looking out of
+my window the morning after our arrival here, I saw the dreadful
+Instrument in the Place de Ferreant, and on inquiry found that five men
+were to be beheaded in the morning and two in the evening. They deserved
+their fate; they had robbed some Farmhouses and committed some
+cruelties. In England, however, they would probably have escaped, as the
+evidence was chiefly presumptive. They were brought to the Scaffold from
+the Prison, tied each with his arms behind him and again to each other;
+they were attended by a Priest, not, however, in black, and a party of
+soldiers. The time of execution of the whole five did not exceed five
+minutes. Of all situations in the world, I can conceive of none half so
+terrible as that of the last Prisoner. He saw his companions ascend one
+after another, heard each fatal blow, and saw each Body thrown aside to
+make room for him. I shall never forget his countenance when he
+stretched out his neck on the fatal board. He shut his eyes on looking
+down where the heads of his companions had fallen, and instantly his
+face turned from ghastly paleness to a deep red, and the wire was
+touched and he was no more. Of all Deaths it is far the most easy; not a
+convulsive struggle could be perceived after the blow. The sight is
+horrid in the extreme, though not awful, as no ceremony is used to make
+it so. Those who have daily seen 200 suffer without the least ceremony
+or trial get hardened to the sight.
+
+The mode of Execution in England is not so speedy certainly nor so
+horrid, but it is conducted with a degree of Solemnity that must impress
+the mind most forcibly. I did not see the two who suffered in the
+evening, the morning's business was quite enough to satisfy my
+curiosity.
+
+The next Morning I saw a punishment a degree less shocking, though I
+think the Prisoner's fate was little better than those of the day
+before. He was seated on a Scaffold in the same place for Public View,
+there to remain for six hours and then to be imprisoned in irons for 18
+years, a Term (as he is 41) I think he will not survive.
+
+What with the immediate effects of the Siege and events that followed,
+the Town has suffered so much in its Buildings and inhabitants, that I
+think it will never recover. The Manufactories of silk are just
+beginning to shoot up by slow degrees. Formerly they afforded employment
+to 40,000 men, now not above half that number can be found, and they
+cannot earn so much. Were I a Lyonese I should wish to plant the plains
+of Buttereaux with cypress-trees and close them in with rails. The Place
+had been a scene of too much horror to remain open for Public amusement.
+The fine Hopital de la Charite, against which the besiegers directed
+their heaviest cannon in spite of the Black ensign, which it is
+customary to hoist over buildings of that nature during a Siege, is much
+damaged, though scarcely so much as I should have expected. The Romantic
+Castle of the Pierre Suisse is no longer to be found, it was destroyed
+early in the troubles together with most of the Roman Antiquities round
+Lyons. I yesterday dined with two more Englishmen at the Table d'hote;
+they were from the South; one, from his conversation a Navy officer, had
+been absent seven years, and had been in the Garrison of Porte Ferrajo
+in the Isle of Elba, the other an Egyptian Hero. There is also a Colonel
+from the same place whose name I know not.
+
+I heard it was an easy thing to be introduced to the Pope,[5] if letters
+are to be had for our Minister, whose name is Fagan, or something like
+it. Now, as I may if I can get an opportunity when at Geneva to pay a
+visit to Rome and Florence previous to passing the Pyrenees, I should
+like a letter to this Mr. Fagan, if one can be got. As Buonaparte's Pope
+is not, I believe, so particular as the Hero himself with regard to
+introductions, I may perhaps be presented to him. I look forward with
+inexpressible pleasure to my arrival at Geneva, to find myself amongst
+old friends and to meet with, I hope, an immense collection of letters.
+
+The Vineyards promise to be very abundant; of course we tasted some of
+the best when in Burgundy and Champagne. What a country that is! The
+corn to the East of Paris is not so promising as that in Normandy. The
+frosts which we felt in May have extended even more to the South than to
+this Town. The apple-trees of Normandy have suffered most, and the vines
+in the Northern parts of France have also been damaged.... I shall go
+from Geneva to Genoa, and there hold a council of war.
+
+GENEVA.
+
+...Between Lyons and Geneva we supped with the Passengers of a
+Vetturino. Two of these were Officers in the French Service, one of them
+a Swiss, the other a Frenchman. The conversation soon fell upon
+Politics, in which I did not choose to join, but was sufficiently
+entertained in hearing the Discourse. Both agreed in abominating the
+present state of Affairs. The Swiss hated the Consul, because he
+destroyed his Country, the other because he was too like a King. Both
+were Philosophers, and each declared himself to be a Moralist. The
+Frenchman was by far the most vehement of the two, and the Swiss seemed
+to take much pleasure in leading him on. His philosophy seemed to be
+drawn from a source equally pure with his Morality; assuming for his
+Motto his first and favourite Maxim, "que tous les hommes sont egaux par
+les lois de la Nature," &c., he thought himself justified in wishing
+Buonaparte (I was going to say) at the Devil (but I soon found out that
+the existence of that Gentleman was a matter of great doubt with the
+Philosopher) for daring to call himself the Head of the French Republic.
+His hatred of Power was only equalled by his aversion to the English,
+whom he seemed to abhor from the bottom of his heart, so much so, that
+when I attempted to defend the First Consul, he dashed out with a
+Torrent of abuse, and ended by saying, "Et enfin c'est lui qui a fait la
+paix avec l'Angleterre."
+
+I was for some time in doubt what part of the Revolution he preferred,
+but by defending Robespierre, he soon gave me an Idea of his Love of
+Liberty, Morality, Equality, and so forth. I was sorry he retired so
+soon after Supper, as I never was more entertained in my life in so
+short a time as with this little Fellow, as singular in his Figure and
+Dress as in his Manner, and he contrived to be always eating as well as
+talking.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother J, T. Stanley._
+
+_Argonauta_, OFF HYERES,
+_Sept. 29, 1802._
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,--Before I left Geneva I firmly intended writing to you,
+but as I left it unexpectedly and sooner than I intended I had not time,
+but this, and all my adventures till I left it, I hope you have already
+heard, as I wrote two letters, one to my Father, the other to my Mother
+before I quitted Geneva. You will no doubt be Surprised, and perhaps
+envy my present situation. Where do you think I am? Why, truly, writing
+on a cot between two 24-pounders in a Spanish 84. You will wonder, I am
+sure, at seeing the date of this letter, and perhaps wish to know by
+what good fortune I found a berth in a Spanish man-of-war, an Event
+which I little expected when I wrote last. I shall begin my story from
+Geneva, and you shall hear my adventures to the present moment. We left
+Geneva in a Vetturino for Turin, a Journey which took up 8 days longer
+than it naturally should have done, but our Coachman was taken ill, & we
+were on his account obliged to travel slowly. But I was not impatient,
+as you will know the Scenery is beautiful; we crossed Mount Cenis,
+which, after St. Bernard's, cannot be called a difficult pass. At Turin
+we stayed 3 days. It is now a melancholy Town, without commerce, &
+decreasing daily in population. The celebrated Jourdan[6] is the ruler
+of the place, & with his wife lives in the King's Palace. From Turin we
+went to Genoa, passing through Country not equal in Scenery, but
+infinitely more interesting than that between Geneva & Turin, every step
+almost having been the scene of battle, and every Town the Object of a
+siege. But the most interesting spot of all was the plain of Marengo,
+near Alessandria. As we travelled in the Diligence I had not so good an
+opportunity of viewing it as I should have had in a Vetturino, but we
+stopped a short time to see the monument which is raised to commemorate
+the victory; it is erected near 2 remarkable spots, one where Desaix[7]
+fell, the other the House from which Buonaparte wrote an account of the
+event to the Directory.
+
+We passed also thro' Novi, every House in which is marked by Shot; that
+unfortunate Town has been three times pillaged during the war. We
+arrived at Genoa on the 10th of Septr., in my opinion the most
+magnificent Town for its size I ever saw. The Palaces are beyond
+conception beautiful, or rather were, for the French Troops are not at
+this moment admitted within the Gates; they are quartered in the Suburb
+in great numbers. As for the new Government, it is easily seen who is at
+the head of it. There is a Doge, to be sure, but his orders come all
+from Paris. While we were waiting there expecting a ship to sail to
+Barcelona, the _Medusa_, English Frigate, came in, and amongst its
+passengers who came with her we found a Cambridge acquaintance, who
+advised us to go without delay to Leghorn as the Spanish Squadron was
+waiting there for the King of Etruria[8] in order to carry him to
+Barcelona. Fortunately the next day an English Brig was going, & in her
+we took our passages; we were fortunate enough to receive a large packet
+of letters from England a few hours before she sailed, which had she
+sailed at the time the Captain intended we should have missed. Will you
+let my sisters know that they arrived safe? I am not without hopes of
+making some use of the interesting letters to Italy, tho' I am now
+steering to the westward. After a good passage of two days we arrived at
+Leghorn and found the Spaniards still there. As soon as I landed I
+delivered a letter to a Mr. Callyer, a Liverpool Gentleman who is
+settled there, & by his means was introduced to the Admiral's first
+Lieut., who promised to secure me a berth in some of the ships. In
+short, here I am in a very fine ship, tho' a horrid sailer. I have now
+given you a short sketch of my tour till arriving at Leghorn; I have
+only to say something of Leghorn and the _Argonauta_. The Town has
+suffered very much by the war, supported nearly as it was by its
+Commerce with England. The inhabitants saw with little pleasure a French
+army take possession of the place & drive away the English. They still
+have a strong force in the town--upwards of 2,000--and its
+fortifications have been dismantled. It is singular enough to see the
+French and Tuscan colours flying together on the same staff. When we
+entered the port the Tuscan Ensign was becalmed & the French flag was
+flying _by itself_. I was much grieved not to be able to visit Florence
+when so near it, but as the Squadron was in daily expectation of sailing
+I did not venture to be absent for 4 days, which the Journey would have
+required. I was therefore obliged to content myself with a view of Pisa,
+which I would not have missed on any account. The leaning Tower is a
+curiosity in itself sufficient to induce a stranger to make a long
+journey to visit it. Here the King of Etruria lived and was hourly
+expected to set out for Leghorn. But his health, as it was believed, was
+in so precarious a State that it was sometimes reported that he would
+not go at all. The Queen, indeed, was in a very critical state, and were
+it not that her children, she being an Infanta of Spain, are entitled to
+a certain sum of money by no means small, provided they were born in
+Spain, it would have been madness in her to have undertaken the voyage;
+indeed, I think it highly probable that a young Prince will make his
+appearance ere we arrive at Barcelona. After having spent a longer time
+than I liked at Leghorn, which has nothing curious to recommend it, at
+length it was given out that on the 26th the K. would certainly arrive
+from Pisa and embark as soon as possible. Accordingly at 6 o'Clock on
+that day all the houses were ornamented in the Italian style by a
+display of different coloured Streamers, etc., from the windows, & His
+Majesty entered the Town. Had I been a King I should have been not
+altogether pleased with my reception. He appeared in the Balcony of the
+Grand Duke's Palace, no one cried, "Viva Ludovico I!" He went to the
+Theatre the same Evening, which was illuminated on the occasion, &, of
+course, much crowded. I do not think our opera could have boasted a
+finer display of Diamonds than I saw that Evening in the Ladies' heads,
+but, be it remembered, that there are 7,000 Jews in Leghorn, not one of
+whom is poor; some are reported to be worth a million. Many of the
+Italians are also very rich. Next day we were informed that it was
+necessary to repair on board our ship, as the King was to go early on
+the 20th. The Naval Scene received an addition on 26th by the arrival of
+2 French frigates from Porto Ferrajo. They had carried a fresh garrison
+there & landed 500 men of the former one at Leghorn; they marched
+immediately, as it was said, to garrison Florence. On the 27th the
+Spaniards and French, the only ships of war in the roads, saluted, were
+manned and dressed. At Eleven o'Clock of the 27th (after having again
+seen the K. at the Opera) in the Launch of the _Argonauta_ we left
+Leghorn & went on board, for the first time in my life, to spend I hope
+many days in so large a ship. She was one of that unfortunate Squadron
+which came forth from Cadiz to convey home Adl. Linois[9] & his prize
+the _Hannibal_, after our unsuccessful attack in Algeciras bay. This
+Ship suffered little; she was then a better sailer than she is now, or
+most probably she would not be at present in the Service of Spain. Early
+on the morning of the 28th the Marines were on the deck. It blew fresh
+from the shore, & it was doubted whether the K. would venture; at 8
+o'Clock, however, the Royal barge was seen coming out of the Mole. The
+Admiral's Ship, _La Reyna Louisa_, gave the signal & at the instant
+Every Ship fired 3 royal salutes. The Effect was very beautiful; we were
+the nearest to the Admiral, nearer the land were the 2 other Spanish
+frigates, & abreast of us the two French Ships. They were all dressed,
+and as the King passed near them they were manned and three cheers were
+given. The King's boat came first, then the Queen's. After them followed
+the Consuls of the different Nations who were at Leghorn, & after them a
+boat from each of the Ships. There were besides a great number of other
+boats & Ships sailing about. Soon after the King had arrived on board
+the _Reyna Louisa_, of 120 guns, the Signal was made for preparing to
+Sail, & soon after the Signal for Sailing. We all got under weigh, but
+as our Ship was a bad sailer we had the mortification of seeing
+ourselves left far behind in a short time. We have had nothing but light
+winds ever since, & for the last two days contrary, but I am not in the
+smallest degree impatient to get to Barcelona. The Novelty of Scene,
+more especially as it is a naval one, pleases me more than anything I
+have met with hitherto. We are, however, now (Oct. 3rd) looking out for
+land. Cape Sebastian will be the point we shall first see in Spain, & I
+much fear that to-morrow night I shall sleep in Barcelona. Of the
+Discipline of the Spanish Navy I cannot say much, nor can I praise their
+cleanliness. I wish much to see a storm. How they manage then I do not
+know, for when it blows hard the sailors will not go aloft; as for the
+officers or Midshipmen, they never think of it. Indeed, the latter live
+exactly as well as the officers; they mess with them, have as good
+berths, & are as familiar with them as they are with each other; very
+different in every respect from the discipline in English Men of War. I
+shall write another letter to my sisters by this post; as they are at
+Highlake you may exchange letters. Soon I shall write to you again. I
+have to thank you for a very long letter which I received at Geneva,
+chiefly relating to the proper judgement of paintings. I am not yet
+quite a convert, but experience may improve me. In Spain I understand I
+shall see some very good ones by the first masters. I fear much that my
+desire of visiting Spain will not be so keen as it was when I have seen
+a very little of it. By all accounts, even from Spaniards themselves,
+travelling is very inconvenient, & what is infinitely worse, very
+expensive; added to which the intolerable Suspicion & care of the
+Government renders any stay there very unpleasant. In case I find myself
+not at my ease there I shall, when at Gibraltar, take a passage back to
+Italy, for Rome & Naples must be seen. Now I think of it I must mention
+one ship well known to you which I saw at Leghorn, namely, the _John of
+Leith_. I accidentally saw her boat with the name written; you may be
+sure I looked at her with no small pleasure.[10] When I sought for her
+next day she was gone. I little thought when I last saw you to see a
+ship in which you had spent so much time, up the Mediterranean. I am
+learning Spanish at present, & the progress I have made in it is not the
+least pleasure I have received during my stay in the _Argonauta_. It is
+a language extremely difficult to understand when spoken, but easy to
+read, & very fine. I can already understand an easy book. If I can add
+Spanish & Italian, or some knowledge of those languages, to my stock, I
+shall consider my time and money as well spent, independent of the
+Countries I shall have seen. Before I close this letter, which you will
+receive long after its original date, I must tell you I have been making
+a most interesting visit to the celebrated Lady of Mont Serrat,[11] &
+was even permitted to kiss her hand, an honour which few, unless well
+recommended, enjoy. I have not time to say so much of it as I could, I
+can only assure you that it fully answered the expectations I had
+raised. The singular Scenery and the more singular Customs of its
+solitary inhabitants, excepting the monks of the convent, who lead a
+most merry, sociable life, are well worth the trouble of going some
+distance to visit. The formation of the mountain is also very
+extraordinary. Entirely pudding stone, chiefly calcarious, some small
+parts of quartz, red granite, & flint only to be found. I have preserved
+some pieces for your museum, which I hope will arrive safe in England,
+as also the small collection of stones which I sent from the Alps.
+
+Yours sincerely,
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+MALAGA, _Jan., 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR FATHER,--To this place am I once more returned, after having
+made an excursion to the far-famed city of Granada and still more
+renowned palace of the Alhambra. My last letter was dated from Gibraltar
+on the 17th of Decr. We left the Rock in a Vile Tartan,[12] rendered
+still less agreeable by belonging to Spaniards, who, at no time
+remarkable for cleanliness, were not likely to exert themselves in that
+point in a small trading Vessel. We were crowded with Passengers and
+empty Casks--both Equally in the Way; tho' the latter were not then
+noisy nor Sick, I considered them as the least nuisance. Fortunately a
+strong W. Breeze soon carried us from the Rock, and in one night we
+found ourselves close to the Mole of Malaga. We introduced ourselves on
+landing to the English Consul Laird, to whose attentions we have been
+since much indebted. On the 2nd day after our arrival we heard of a
+Muleteer who was on his return to Granada, and with whom we agreed for 3
+Mules. The distance is 18 leagues over the Mountains, a Journey of 3
+days; this is a Country wild as the Highlands of Scotland, and in parts,
+if possible, more barren. The first night we slept at Vetey Malaga and
+the 2nd at Alhama, a Town famous for its hot baths, which, thanks to the
+Moors--who built walls about them--the Spaniards still enjoy. The
+accommodations in the Country are rather inferior to those of England,
+tho' perhaps you may consider me so prejudiced in favour of my own, and
+therefore unjust in my accounts of other Countries. This may be the
+Case, and I dare say a Muleteer would find infinite fault with an
+English Inn, where accommodation may be found for the Rider as well as
+the Mule. On entering one of these Ventas, or Inns, you find yourself in
+the Midst of Jack Asses and Mules, the necks of which, being usually
+adorned with bells, produce a Music highly entertaining to a traveller
+after a long day's Journey over these delightful roads. If you can force
+your way through this Crowd of Musical Quadrupeds it is necessary that
+you should attempt to find out the Landlord and petition for a room,
+which in general may be had, and if you are fortunate, Mattrasses are
+laid on the floor. Eating, however, is always out of the question. It is
+absolutely necessary to carry your own Stock and look for your self if
+a frying Pan can be found. If you are very much tired and the Bugs,
+Mosquitos, Fleas, and other insects (sent into the World, I believe, to
+torment Mankind) are also tired or satiated with sucking the Blood from
+the Travellers the preceding night, you may chance to sleep till 3
+o'clock in the Morning, when the Carriers begin to load their beasts and
+prepare for the day's Journey. The pleasure of travelling is also
+considerably diminished by the numbers of Crosses by the road side,
+which, being all stuck up wherever a murder has been committed, are very
+unpleasant hints, and you are constantly put in mind of your latter End
+by these confounded Monuments of Mortality. Fortunately, we met with no
+Tromboners on the road, and hitherto we have saved the Country the
+Expence of Erecting 3 Crosses on our account. At last we arrived at
+Granada, the 3rd Town in Spain in Extent, being surpassed only by
+Seville and Toledo. You will, I suppose, expect a long account of the
+Alhambra and Romantic Gardens of the Generalife, a minute account of the
+curiosities in the City and a long string of etceteras relative to the
+place. You must, however, remain in ignorance of all these things till
+we meet, as at present I have neither time or inclination or paper
+sufficient to repeat my adventures and observations: suffice it to say
+that on the whole I was much disappointed both with the Alhambra and
+Granada, which are I cannot say lasting Monuments, for they are falling
+fast to ruin. Of the Indolence and negligence of the people, you will
+scarcely believe that so large a Town so near the sea, and situated in
+one of the finest vales in Spain, is almost without Trade of any
+Sort--neither troubling itself with importations or exerting its powers
+to provide Materials for Exportation. The Capt. Genl., however, is doing
+all he can to restore it to its former dignity, and were he well
+seconded, Granada might again hope to become one of the brightest
+ornaments of Spain. We returned by way of Loja and Antiquiera on the
+27th of Decr., and have been wind bound ever since, and likely to be for
+another Month--sure never was a wind so obstinate as the present. We
+have here, I believe, quite formed a party to visit another quarter of
+the Globe--a short trip to Africa is at present in agitation. A Capt.
+Riddel from Gibraltar is one of the promoters, and if we can get to
+Gibraltar in any decent time you may possibly in my next letter hear
+some account of the Good Mahometans at Tangiers. We are but to make a
+short Stay and carry our Guns and dogs, as we are told the Country is
+overrun with game of every sort. I have been most agreeably surprised in
+finding Malaga a very pleasant place: we have met with more attention
+and seen more Company here than we ever did in Barcelona. I am this
+Evening going to a Ball; unfortunately Fandangos are not fashionable
+dances, but they have another called the Bolero, which in grace and
+Elegance stands unrivalled, but would scarcely be admitted in the less
+licentious circles of our N. Climate. I shall take lessons at Cadiz, and
+hope to become an adept in all those dances before I see you. If you
+write within a fortnight--and of course you will after receiving
+this--you may still direct to Cadiz. There has been a disturbance at
+Gibraltar, which was hatching when we were there, and during our absence
+has Broken out. The many strange reports and particulars which have
+reached Malaga--as I cannot vouch for their truth, I shall not Mention;
+the Grand point, however, was to put his Royal H. on board of a Ship and
+send him back to England. There has been also a desperate gale of Wind
+in the Straights--3 Portuguese Frigates, one with the loss of her
+rudder, were blown in here. Some Vessels, I understand, were also lost
+at the Rock. I hope our little brig, _ye Corporation_, with the young
+pointers has arrived in the Thames in spite of the constant Gales and
+contrary Winds which we met with. I was sorry when the Wind became fair
+and the Rock appeared ahead. My taste for salt Water is not at all
+diminished by Experience. It is no doubt a strange one, but there is no
+accounting for these things, you know. Malaga is warm enough--we have
+Green Peas and Asparagus every day. But we experienced very severe
+Weather at Granada--Frost and Snow. The baths of the Alhambra were even
+covered with Ice an Inch Thick. Adieu! this is Post Day.
+
+Loves to all,
+Yours Sincerely,
+E. S.
+
+
+GIBRALTAR, _Jan. 22, 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,--I promised in my last, which I wrote when I was on the
+point of Setting out on a tour to Granada, to write again and give some
+account of myself immediately on my return, which was delayed on account
+of Sundry unfortunate Circumstances till the day before yesterday. From
+Malaga I wrote to my Father, and you probably have heard that a fair
+wind carried us in a vile vessel from this place to Malaga in one night,
+from whence, staying as Short a time as possible, I set out on mules to
+Granada, distant a journey of three days. Till this time I had never,
+excepting from hearsay, formed a true idea of the perfection to which
+travelling in Spain could be carried, and yet, bad as it was, my return
+to land from Gibraltar has shown that things might be a degree worse. Of
+the roads I can only say that most probably the Spaniards are indebted
+to the Moors for first marking them out, and that the present race
+follow the steps of their Ancestors, without troubling themselves with
+repairs or alterations of any description. You may well then imagine the
+delicate State in which they now are. The Ventas or Inns are in a State
+admirably corresponding to that of the high-roads. Provisions of every
+sort must necessarily be carried unless the traveller wishes to fast;
+beds are occasionally, and indeed I may say pretty generally, to be met
+with, such as they are; of course, bugs, fleas, Mosquitos, and so forth
+must not be considered: they are plentifully diffused over the Country,
+and are by no means confined to the inferior houses. With a Substitution
+for "Pallida Mors" the quotation from Horace may with truth be applied,
+"aequo pulsant pede pauperum tabernae, Regum turres." We passed thro'
+Alhama, near which are some very fine hot baths; the exact heat I could
+not ascertain (as my thermometer was actually jolted to pieces tho' in
+its case in my pocket, travelling from Turin to Genoa), but it is so
+great that I could scarcely keep my hand immersed for a minute. In
+another Country they would be much frequented; as it is there are only
+some miserable rooms for those who repair to them from necessity. On the
+evening of the 21st of December we arrived at our Journey's end, and
+found, what we did not expect, a very tolerable Inn, though as Granada
+is considered the third Town in Spain, those who are unacquainted with
+the country might expect a better. I have so much to say that I cannot
+enter into a minute account of the famous Palace of the Alhambra and
+other Curiosities in the Town, which is most beautifully situated at the
+foot of a range of snow-covered Mountains at the extremity of what is
+said to be the most luxuriant and delightful valley in Spain. I hope for
+the credit of the Inhabitants that it is not so, as certainly it is in a
+disgraceful state of Cultivation, and were it not for the Acqueducts
+erected by the Moors for the convenience of watering the land would, I
+fear, in a few years be burnt up by the intense heat of summer. Its
+chief produce is Corn and oil; silk and Wine are also cultivated, but
+the cold of winter sometimes injures the two latter. The place is badly
+peopled and has no trade; it is chiefly supported by being the chief
+criminal port of Spain, and the richest people are consequently the
+Lawyers. We saw the baths of Alhambra in a state very different from
+what they usually are--actually frozen over and the Ice nearly an Inch
+thick. I must say I was greatly disappointed with these famed remains of
+Moorish Magnificence, tho' certainly when everything was kept in order,
+the fountains all playing, it must have been very different; at present
+it is falling fast to ruin. The Governor is a man appointed by the
+Prince of Peace,[13] and I believe would be unwilling to bestow any
+attention on anything in the world but his own person, of which by all
+accounts he takes special care. We returned to Malaga through Loja and
+Antequerra, both Moorish towns. At Malaga we were detained by Contrary
+winds for three weeks; we might, indeed, have passed our time less
+advantageously at other places, as we experienced much unexpected
+Civility & saw a great deal of Spanish Society. Wearied at length with
+waiting for Winds, we determined to set out on our return to the Rock by
+land, and accordingly hired 4 horses, and, under the most favourable
+auspices, left Malaga. We soon found that even a Spanish sky could not
+be trusted; it began before we had completed half our first day's
+journey to pour with rain. To return was impossible, as we had forded
+the first river. In short, for three days we suffered Every
+Inconvenience which can be conceived, but were still to meet with
+another disappointment, for on the Morning of the day in which we had
+certainly calculated to arrive at Gibraltar we came to a River which was
+so much swelled that the Boatman could not ferry us over. Nearly a
+hundred Muleteers and others were in the same predicament, and we had
+the satisfaction of passing two most miserable days in a horrid Cortigo,
+a house of _accommodation_ a degree lower than a Venta. Our provisions
+were exhausted, and nothing but bread and water were to be met with.
+Beds, of course, or a room of any sort were unobtainable. Conceive to
+yourself a kitchen filled with smoke, without windows, in which were
+huddled together about forty of the lowest order of Spaniards. As it
+poured with rain we could not stir out, and as for staying within doors
+it was scarcely possible. If we tried to sleep we were instantly covered
+with fleas and other insects equally partial to a residence on the human
+body. After two days' penance, as the waters began to abate, we
+determined to cross the river in a small boat and proceed on foot, which
+we did, and though we had to skip thro' 2 or 3 horrible streams and wade
+thro' Mud and Marshes we performed the journey lightly, as anything was
+bearable after the Cortigo del rio Zuariano. We passed through St. Roque
+and the Spanish lines and arrived at Gibraltar on 20th, out of patience
+with the Spaniards and everything belonging to Spain. Indeed, the
+Country is a disgrace to Europe. I wish indolence was the only vice of
+the inhabitants, but added to laziness they are in general mean in their
+ideas, the women licentious in their manners, and both sexes sanguinary
+to a degree scarcely credible. In Malaga particularly, few nights pass
+without some murders. Those who have any regard for their safety must
+after dark carry a sword and a lantern. You may form some idea of the
+people when there was one fellow at Granada who had with his own hand
+committed no less than 22 Murders. Nothing could be more gratifying to
+an Englishman than finding wherever he goes the manufactures of his own
+Country. This in Spain is particularly the case; there is scarcely a
+single article of any description which this people can make for
+themselves, consequently English goods are sure of meeting with a quick
+sale. Perhaps it may be from prejudice, but certainly the idea I had of
+England before I left it has been raised many degrees since I have had
+an opportunity of comparing it with other countries. But now for some
+news respecting Gibraltar itself, which has during my absence been a
+scene of Confusion, first by a dreadful gale of wind, and secondly from
+a much more serious cause, a spirit of Mutiny in the Garrison. By the
+former 16 or 18 vessels were either lost or driven on shore; by the
+latter some lives were sacrificed before tranquillity was restored, and
+3 men have since suffered death by the Verdict of a Court Martial. No
+doubt you will see something of it in the papers; I cannot now enter
+into a detail as it would take some time. The 2 Regts. principally, and
+I believe I may say only, concerned were the Royals, which is the
+Duke's[14] own Regt., and the 25th; fortunately they did not act in
+concert. The other Regts. of the Garrison, the 2nd, 8th, 23rd, and 54th,
+particularly the latter, behaved well. The design was to seize the Duke
+and put him on board a ship and send him to England. He is disliked on
+account of his great severity: whether he carries discipline to an
+unnecessary degree military men know better than myself. Despatches have
+been sent to England, and I believe some of the men concerned; the
+greatest anxiety prevails to know what answers or orders will be
+returned. Of War and the rumours of War, tho' we it seems are nearer the
+scene of action than those who dwell at home, little is known, and what
+little is seems to be more inclined to peace than the English papers
+allow. It is here said, on what grounds I know not, that the Spaniards
+have entirely ceded Minorca to their good neighbours the French. We have
+but a small Naval force in the bay; and a few frigates and ships of
+war, one of the latter the _Bittern_, I believe, arrived yesterday from
+England, but without any particular news. Many gun boats were fitting
+out at Malaga, but I was informed they were only meant for "Guarda
+Costas," which may or not be the truth. We sailed for Cadiz the moment
+an E. wind would give us leave; it has now blown almost constantly a W.
+wind for three months, and the season has been remarkably wet. I am
+impatient to get to Cadiz as I expect certainly to find letters, the
+receipt of which from home is, I think, the greatest pleasure a
+traveller can experience. Of Louisa's[15] marriage I have as yet not
+heard, tho' no doubt, however, it has taken place. How are my Nephews
+and Nieces? I do indeed look forward with pleasure to my next visit to
+Alderley. Remember it is now nearly 2 years since I have seen you; how
+many things have happened in the time to yours most sincerely
+
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his brother J. T. Stanley._
+
+GIBRALTAR, _January 16, 1803_.
+
+MY DEAR BROTHER,-- ... I shall pass over the greater part of the rest of
+your long letter & proceed without further delay to talk of myself. The
+last time you heard from me I think was soon after I arrived in
+Barcelona; what occurred during my stay there you have most probably
+heard from my sisters, as I wrote to Highlake just before I left that
+place. I consider myself as extremely fortunate in being at Barcelona
+during a time when I had a better opportunity of seeing the Court of
+Spain and the different amusements of the Country than I could have
+witnessed by a much longer residence even in Madrid itself. I was,
+however, unfortunately only a Spectator; as no regular English Consul
+had arrived in Barcelona, I had no opportunity of being introduced
+either at Court or in the first Circles. Another difficulty also was in
+my way; unfortunately I was not in the Army & consequently had no
+uniform, without which or a Court dress no person is considered as a
+Gentleman in this Country. I have repeatedly regretted that before I
+left England I did not put my name down on some Military list, & under
+cover of a red Coat procure an undisputed right to the title of
+Gentleman in Spain.
+
+As for the people, both noble and vulgar, it requires but a very short
+residence amongst them to be highly disgusted; few receive any thing
+which deserves the name of a regular Education, & I have been told from,
+I believe, undoubted Authority, that a nobleman unable to write his
+name, or even read his own pedigree, is by no means a difficult thing to
+meet with. The Government is in such a State that ere long it must fall,
+I should think. The King is entirely under the power of the Prince of
+Peace,[16] a man who from being a common Corps de Garde has risen by
+degrees, & being naturally ambitious & extremely avaricious has gained a
+rank inferior only to that of the King, & a fortune which makes him not
+only the richest man in Spain but probably in Europe. He is disliked by
+every Class of people, & it is not, I believe, without good ground that
+he is considered as little better than a tool of Buonaparte's.
+
+The conduct of France to Spain in many particulars, which are too
+numerous now to mention, shews in what a degraded state the latter
+is--how totally unable to act or even think for herself. One instance I
+need only mention, tho' I do not vouch for the truth of it, further than
+as being a report current in the Garrison. The French have _kindly_
+offered to send 4,000 troops to Minorca in order to _take care_ of it
+for yr good friends the Spaniards, and a Squadron is fitting out at
+Toulon to carry them there. After your alarming account of the naval
+preparations in the three kingdoms you will expect that I, who am here
+in the centre of everything, should be able to tell you a great deal;
+you will, therefore, be surprised when you are informed that yours is
+almost the only account of another war which I have heard of. A Strong
+Squadron, indeed, of 6 line of Battle Ships some time ago sailed with
+sealed orders and went aloft, but where is unknown. From Barcelona, as
+it was utterly impossible to get to Madrid on account of the King
+having put an Embargo on every Conveyance, which is easily done as the
+Conveyances are bad as the roads and difficult to meet with, as well as
+enormously dear, we determined to steer for Gibraltar by Sea, and
+accordingly took passage on an English brig, which was to stop on the
+Coast for fruit we took on board. The Voyage was uncommonly long, and we
+met with every Species of weather, during which I had the pleasure of
+witnessing a very interesting Collection of Storms, with all the
+concomitant circumstances such as Splitting Sails and Shipping Seas, one
+of which did us considerable mischief, staving in all the starboard
+quarter boards, filling and very nearly carrying away the long-boat,
+drowning our live Stock, and, of course, ducking us all on deck most
+thoroughly. We stayed a week at Denia, a small but beautiful Town on the
+south part of the K. of Valencia. We were fortunately put on shore here
+in the night of December 6th. I say fortunately, as in consequence of a
+very strong Levanter the Captn. was for some hours in doubt whether he
+should not be under the necessity of running through the straits and
+carrying us to England, which was very near happening. Italy I have
+quite given up for the present. Rome and Naples I lament not to have
+seen, but you know that from Leghorn I turned to the westward in
+Compliance with Hussey's wish, who was anxious to be near Lisbon. We
+have some idea of going from this place thro' Malaga to Granada, and
+soon after we return proceed to Cadiz, and after making some excursions
+from thence go on to Lisbon. Your letter which you promised to send to
+Madrid will, I fear, never reach me, tho' I have still hopes of paying
+that Capital a visit. At Lisbon I shall arrive, I should think, about
+March, and hope to be in England about May, or perhaps sooner. At Lisbon
+I hope to find a letter from you; the direction is Jos. Lyne & Co. I
+have been very unfortunate in not finding some friends in the Garrison,
+the only officer to whom I had a letter whom I found here has been of
+little Service to us. I have, however, made the best use of my time and
+have been over the greatest part of this extraordinary Fortress, but
+shall leave the description of it, as well as of an infinity of other
+things, till we meet, which shall be very soon after my arrival in
+England. I must send this instantly or wait for the next Post day, so I
+shall conclude rather hastily. My best Love to Mrs. S. and Believe me,
+
+Yours sincerely,
+EDWD. STANLEY.
+
+[Illustration: Lord Sheffield
+
+Walker & Boutall, ph. sc.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II
+
+AFTER NAPOLEON'S FALL
+
+News of the Emperor's fall--Foreign plans--Disquieting
+rumours--Madame de Stael--London in an uproar--Emperors and
+Kings--Hero-worship at close quarters.
+
+1814.
+
+
+The sudden rupture of the Peace of Amiens in May, 1803, closed France to
+Englishmen, except to the miserable eight or nine thousand who were in
+the country at the time, and were forcibly detained there by orders of
+the First Consul. It was not until eleven years later, in April, 1814,
+when Napoleon had abdicated, and when the allies had triumphantly
+entered Paris and restored Louis XVIII. to the throne of his fathers,
+that peaceful British travellers could cross the frontier once more.
+
+The busy parish life which had occupied Edward Stanley during the years
+which had elapsed since his first visit to France had not made him less
+keen for travel than he had been in his college days, and all his ardour
+was aroused by the news that there was to be an end to Napoleon's rule.
+
+The excitement caused by the rumour of the capture of Paris and the
+deposition of the Emperor may be guessed at by a letter received at
+Alderley from Lord Sheffield, father of Lady Maria Stanley, in the
+spring of 1814.
+
+
+_Letter from Lord Sheffield._
+
+PORTLAND PLACE, _April 6, 1814_.
+
+...I am just come from the Secretary of State's Office. We are all
+gasping for further intelligence from Paris, but none has arrived since
+Capt. Harris, a very intelligent young man who was despatched in half an
+hour after the business was completed, but of course cannot answer half
+the questions put to him. He came by Flanders, escorted part of the way
+by Cossacks, but was stopped nearly a day on the road. Schwartzenberg
+completely out-generalled Buonaparte. An intercepted letter of the
+latter gave him notice of an intended operation. He instantly decided on
+the measures which brought on the capture of Paris. I suppose you know
+that King Joseph sent the Empress and King of Rome previously to
+Rambouillet. It is supposed that Buonaparte has fallen back to form a
+junction with some other troops. A friend of Marshal Beresford's[17] has
+just called here who lately had a letter from the Marshal which says
+that he is quite sure that Soult has not 15,000 men left, and that in
+sundry engagements and by desertion he has lost about 16,000 men. I
+have no letter from Sir Henry[18] or William Clinton[19] since I saw
+you, but I learn at the War Office that the latter was, on the 20th of
+last month, within ten days' march of the right wing of Lord
+Wellington's army.[20]
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Further news soon followed, and the authentic accounts of the Emperor's
+abdication at Fontainebleau on April 11th, and of his banishment to
+Elba, made it certain that his power was broken.
+
+The Rector of Alderley was eager to seize the chance of viewing the
+wreck of Napoleon's Empire while the country was still ringing with
+rumours of battles and sieges, and he began to make plans to do so
+almost as soon as the French ports were open.
+
+His wife was as keen as himself, and it was at first suggested that Sir
+John and Lady Maria, as well as Mrs. Edward Stanley, should join the
+expedition; but the difficulties of finding accommodation, and the fears
+of the disturbed state of the country, made them abandon the idea, to
+their great disappointment.
+
+The following extracts from the correspondence of Lady Maria Stanley
+explain the reasons for the journey being given up by herself and her
+sister-in-law.
+
+They describe the feeling in England on the foreign situation, and also
+give a glimpse of the wayward authoress, Madame de Stael, who was just
+then on her way back to France after a banishment of ten years.
+
+
+_Lady Maria Stanley to her sister, Lady Louisa Clinton._
+
+ALDERLEY PARK, _April 30, 1814_.
+
+So the Parisian expedition is at an end for us, in convention, that is,
+for I think Edward will brave all difficulties, and with Ed. Leycester,
+taking Holland first on his way, make a fight for Paris if possible; but
+all who know anything on the subject represent the present difficulties
+as so great, and the probable future ones so much greater, that Kitty
+(Mrs. Ed. Stanley) has given up all thought of making the attempt this
+year.
+
+Lodging at Paris is difficult to be had, and there are even serious
+apprehensions of a scarcity of provisions there. Moreover, the wise ones
+would not be surprised if things were in a very unsettled and, perhaps,
+turbulent state for some months. This is Miss Tunno's information,
+confirmed by other accounts she has had from Paris.
+
+Madame Moreau's[21] brother means to return to prepare for her
+reception and the mode of travelling, and when all is arranged to come
+again to fetch her.
+
+There seems every reason to think another year preferable for a trip,
+especially as I have been making the same melancholy reflections as Cat.
+Fanshawe,[22] and feared there would not be one clever or agreeable
+person left in London a Twelve-month hence; my only comfort is the
+expectation that House rent will be very cheap, and that the said Cat.
+will be better disposed to take up with second best company for want of
+perfection, and that we may have more of her society.
+
+...All you say of the French nobility and their feelings is very true;
+but if they return with the sentiment that all the Senate who wish for a
+good constitution are "des coquins," which I very much suspect, I shall
+consider the emigrants are the greatest "coquins" of the two sets.
+
+Surely, all the very bad Republicans and terrorists are exterminated. I
+should like to see a list of the Constituent Assembly, with an account
+of what has become of each. I have been reading all the accounts we have
+of the Revolution from the beginning. When I begin I am as fierce a
+Republican as ever, and think no struggle too much for the purpose of
+amending such a government or such laws. By the time I come to /93,
+however, one begins to hesitate, but I rejoice most heartily the old
+times are not restored, and hope Louis means to be sincere and
+consistent with his good beginning.
+
+I return the "Conte de Cely," which is very entertaining and
+interesting, as no doubt speaking the sentiments of all the old
+nobility. I do not think France has seen the end of her troubles
+entirely. It is impossible the Senate and the Emigrants can sit down
+quietly together, but the former--the Marshals and the Generals--would
+be formidable if they had reason given them to doubt the security of
+Louis' acceptation of the Constitution. If the Bourbons share the
+sentiments of their nobles, will you not give me leave to think they are
+too soon restored?
+
+Miss Tunno is very intimate with Mdme. Moreau and a cousin of hers. All
+her accounts have been conformable with yours.
+
+
+_Lady Louisa Clinton to her sister, Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+To-day I sat an hour with Cat. Fanshawe, and was highly amused by the
+account she gave of Mme. de Stael bolting up to her while standing
+speaking to Lord Lansdowne and some others at Mrs. Marcet's,[23] and
+saying, "I want to be acquainted with you. They say you have written a
+minuet. I am not a judge of English poetry, but those who are told me
+it is very good. Is it printed?" This intolerable impertinence, which,
+however, she probably meant for condescension, so utterly overset Cat.,
+that she could find not a word to say, and treated the overture so
+coldly that nothing more came of it.
+
+I exhort Cat. to recollect that the woman was so notorious for excessive
+ill-breeding, that no particular affront was intended, and hoped she
+would not continue coy, as I long to hear something of this Lioness from
+one who can judge.
+
+Hitherto I have had no such luck. I hear the most exaggerated statements
+of the Baroness's absurdities, or of the necessity of her being one of
+every literary party.
+
+
+_Letter from Miss Catherine Fanshawe, after meeting Lord Byron and Mme
+de Stael at Sir Humphry and Lady Davy's._
+
+_Early Spring, 1814._
+
+I have just stayed in London long enough to get a sight of the last
+imported lion,[24] Mme de Stael; but it was worth twenty peeps through
+ordinary show-boxes, being the longest and most entertaining dinner at
+which I ever in my life was present. The party being very small, her
+conversation was for the benefit of all who had ears to hear, and even
+my imperfect organ lost little of the discourse--happy if memory had
+served me with as much fidelity; for, had the whole discourse been
+written without one syllable of correction, it would be difficult to
+name a dialogue so full of eloquence and wit. Eloquence is a great word,
+but not too big for her. She speaks as she writes; and upon this
+occasion she was inspired by indignation, finding herself between two
+opposite spirits, who gave full play to all her energies. She was
+astonished to hear that this pure and perfect constitution was in need
+of radical reform; that the only safety for Ireland was to open wide the
+doors which had been locked and barred by the glorious revolution; and
+that Great Britain, the bulwark of the World, the Rock which alone had
+withstood the sweeping flood, the ebbs and flows of Democracy and
+Tyranny, was herself feeble, disjointed, and almost on the eve of ruin.
+So, at least, it was represented by her antagonist in argument, Childe
+Harold, whose sentiments, partly perhaps for the sake of argument, grew
+deeper and darker in proportion to her enthusiasm.
+
+The wit was his. He is a mixture of gloom and sarcasm, chastened,
+however, by good breeding, and with a vein of original genius that makes
+some atonement for the unheroic and uncongenial cast of his whole mind.
+It is a mind that never conveys the idea of sunshine. It is a dark night
+upon which the lightning flashes. The conversation between these two
+and Sir Humphry Davy,[25] at whose house they met, was so animated that
+Lady Davy[26] proposed coffee being served in the eating-room; so we did
+not separate till eleven. Of course we had assembled rather late. I
+should not say "assembled," for the party included no guests except Lord
+Byron and myself in addition to the "Stael" quartette....
+
+As foreigners have no idea that any opposition to Government is
+compatible with general obedience and loyalty, their astonishment was
+unbounded. I, perhaps I only, completely relished all her reasonings,
+and I thought her perfectly justified in replying to the pathetic
+mournings over departed liberty, "Et vous comptez pour rien la liberte
+de dire tout cela, et meme devant les domestiques!" She concluded by
+heartily wishing us a little taste of real adversity to cure us of our
+plethora of political health.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In consequence of the difficulties and dangers anticipated in the above
+letters Edward Stanley finally decided to take as his only travelling
+companion his young brother-in-law, Edward Leycester, who was just
+leaving Cambridge for the Long Vacation.
+
+Mrs. Stanley accompanied her husband and brother as far as London, in
+order to see the festivities held in honour of the State visit of the
+Allied Sovereigns to England in June, on their way from the Restoration
+ceremonies in France.
+
+Her letters to her sister-in-law during this visit describe some of the
+actors in the great events of the last few months and the excitement
+which pervaded London during their stay.
+
+
+_Mrs. Edward Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _Friday, June 13, 1814_.
+
+Edward went for his passport the other day, and was told he must go to
+the Alien Office, being taken for a Frenchman....
+
+I forgot yesterday to beg Sir John would write Edward an introduction to
+Lord Clancarty,[27] and anybody else he can think of at Paris or the
+Hague, and send them to him as soon as possible.
+
+We have been Emperor[28] hunting all morning. No, first we went to Mass
+with Miss Cholmondeley, and heard such music!
+
+Then with her to the Panorama of Vittoria, and since then we have been
+parading St. James's Street and Piccadilly. Oh! London for ever! Edward
+saw a whiskered man go into a shop, followed him, and accosted him, and
+it was a man just arrived with despatches for the Crown Prince, who was
+thankful to be shewn his way. There was a gentleman came up to talk to
+Miss Cholmondeley, and he had been living in the house with Lucien
+Bonaparte.[29]
+
+[Illustration: _H. Edridge A.R.A. Welt 1811_ _Emory Walker Ph. Sc._
+
+_Kitty Leycester--married Edward Stanley 1810._]
+
+Then Edward was standing in Hatchard's shop, and he saw a strange bonnet
+in an open landau, and there was the Duchess of Oldenburg[30] and her
+Bonnet, and her brother sitting by her in a plain black coat, and he
+gave himself the toothache running after the carriage.
+
+He saw, or fancied he saw, a great deal of character in the Duchess's
+countenance. I just missed this, but afterwards joined Edward, and
+walked up and down St. James's Street, trusting to Edward's eyes, rather
+than all the assurances we met with, that the Emperor was gone to
+Carlton House, and were rewarded by a sight of him in a quarter of an
+hour, which had sufficed him to change his dress and his equipage, and a
+very fine head he has. Such a sense of bustle and animation as there is
+in that part of the town! You and Sir John may, and I daresay will,
+laugh at all the amazing anxiety and importance attached to a glimpse of
+what is but a man after all; but still the common principles of sympathy
+would force even Sir John's philosophy to yield to the animating throng
+of people and carriages down St. James's Street, and follow their
+example all the time he was abusing their folly.
+
+
+_June 13, 1814._
+
+At half-past ten we started for the illuminations, and nearly made the
+tour of the whole town from Park Lane to St. Paul's in the open
+barouche.
+
+I cannot conceive a more beautiful scene than the India House; they had
+hung a quantity of flags and colours of different sorts across the
+street; the flutings and capitals of the pillars, and all the outlines
+of the buildings, marked out with lamps, so that it was much more like a
+fairy palace and a fairy scene altogether than anything else.
+
+The flags concealed the sky, and formed such a fine background to the
+brilliant light thrown on all the groups of figures.
+
+We did not get home till daylight. There was nothing the least good or
+entertaining in the way of inscriptions and transparencies, except a
+"Hosanna to Jehovah, Britain, and Alexander."
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _Wednesday, June, 1814_.
+
+Where did we go to be made fools of by the Emperor yesterday for four
+hours? We went with Miss Tunno, got introduced to a gentleman's tailor
+in Parliament Street, and looked out of his window; saw a shabby coach
+and six pass, full of queer heads, one of which was so like the prints
+of Alexander, and bowed so like an Emperor, that I must and will
+maintain it to have been him till I can receive positive proof that it
+was not. We saw, too, what they said was Bluecher, but we could hear or
+see nothing but that something was wrapped up in furs. However, Edward
+was more fortunate, and came in for the real bows which the real Emperor
+made from the Pulteney Hotel window, and you and Sir John may laugh as
+you please at all the trouble we have taken to see--nothing.
+
+Nevertheless, though I was well disposed to kiss the Emperor and Prince,
+and all who contributed to disappoint the public expectation, it is
+certainly entertaining and enlivening to be in expectation of meeting
+something strange every corner you turn and every different report you
+hear. The Emperor has gone out this morning to look about at half-past
+nine, long before the Prince Regent called.
+
+They say he will sail in one of his own ships from Leith and may pass
+through Manchester. But after all, it is something like what Craufurd
+described being in Paris, to be hearing yourself in the midst of a
+great bustle with your eyes shut and unable to see what was going on
+round you.
+
+We talk of Monday se'enight for our separation. There is so much to be
+seen if one could but see it here, that Edward is in no hurry to be
+off....
+
+At Lady Cork's the other night Bluecher was expected. Loud Huzzas in the
+street at length announced him, the crowd gathered round the door, and
+in walked Lady Caroline Lamb[31] in a foreign uniform! This I had from
+no less authentic and accurate a source than Dr. Holland, who was an
+eye-witness. She had been at the party in female attire, and seeing Lady
+Cork's anxiety to see the great man, returned home and equipped herself
+to take in Lady C. and Co.
+
+
+_Monday, 8 a.m., June 16th._
+
+Yesterday, after Church, we went to the Park. It was a beautiful day,
+and the Emperor may well be astonished at the population, for such a
+crowd of people I could not have conceived, and such an animated crowd.
+As the white plumes of the Emperor's guard danced among the trees, the
+people all ran first to one side and then to the other; it was
+impossible to resist the example, and we ran too, backwards and forwards
+over the same hundred yards, four times, and were rewarded by seeing the
+Ranger of the Forest, Lord Sydney, who preceded the Royal party, get a
+good tumble, horse and all. We saw Lord Castlereagh almost pulled off
+his horse by congratulations and huzzahs as loud as the Emperor's, and a
+most entertaining walk we had.
+
+We dined at Mr. Egerton's. Mr. Morritt[32] rather usurped the
+conversation after dinner, but I was glad of him to save me from the
+history of each lady's adventures in search of the Emperor or the
+illuminations. The Opera must have been a grand sight; it seems
+undoubted that the Emperor and Prince Regent, and all in the Royal box,
+rose when the Princess of Wales came in and bowed to her--it is supposed
+by previous arrangement. Lord Liverpool[33] declared that he would
+resign unless something of the sort was done.
+
+One man made forty guineas by opening his box door and allowing those in
+the lobbies to take a peep for a guinea apiece. We made an attempt on
+Saturday to get into the pit, but it was quite impossible. I would not
+for the world but have been here during the fever, although what many
+people complain of is very true, that it spoils all conversation and
+society, and in another day or two I shall be quite tired of the sound
+or sight of Emperors.
+
+The merchants and bankers invited the Emperor to dinner; he said he had
+no objection if they would promise him it should not exceed
+three-quarters of an hour, on which Sir William Curtis lifted up his
+hands and exclaimed, "God bless me!"
+
+He is tired to death with the long sittings he is obliged to undergo.
+The stories of him quite bring one back to the "Arabian Nights," and
+they could not have chosen a more appropriate ballet for him than "Le
+Calife Voleur."
+
+If he stayed long enough, he might revolutionise the hours of London.
+
+I was close to Bluecher yesterday, but only saw his back, for I never
+thought of looking at a man's face who had only a black coat on.
+
+You may safely rest in your belief that I do not enjoy anything I see or
+hear without telling it to you, and you are quite right in your
+conjecture as to what your feelings would be here.
+
+I have thought and said a hundred times what a fever of impatience
+disappointment, and fatigue you would be in.... You are also right in
+supposing that you know as much or more of the Emperor than I do, for
+one has not the time nor the inclination to read what one has the chance
+of seeing all the day long, and it is so entertaining that I feel it
+quite impossible to sit quiet and content when you know what is going
+on.
+
+One person meets another: "What are you here for?" "I don't know. What
+are you expecting to see?" One says the Emperor is gone this way, and
+another that way, and of all the talking couples or trios that pass you
+in the street, there are not two where the word "Emperor" or "King" or
+"Bluecher" is not in one, if not both mouths; and all a foxhound's
+sagacity is necessary to scent him successfully, for he slips round by
+backways and in plain clothes.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+LONDON, _June 17, 1814_.
+
+We were in high luck on Sunday in getting a private interview with the
+Cossacks, through some General of M.'s acquaintance. We saw their horses
+and the white one, 20 years old, which has carried Platoff[34] through
+all his engagements. They are small horses with very thick legs. The
+Cossacks themselves would not open the door of their room till luckily a
+gentleman who could speak Russian came up, and then we were admitted.
+
+There were four, one who had been thirty years in the service, with a
+long beard and answering exactly my idea of a Cossack; the others,
+younger men with fine countenances and something graceful and
+gentleman-like in their figure and manner. They were very happy to talk,
+and there was great intelligence and animation in their eyes. No wonder
+they defy the weather with their cloaks made of black sheepskin and
+lined with some very thick cloth which makes them quite impenetrable to
+cold or wet. Their lances were 11 feet long, and they were dressed in
+blue jacket and trousers confined round the waist with a leather belt,
+in which was a rest for the lance. I envied their saddles, which have a
+sort of pommel behind and before, between which is placed a cushion, on
+which they must sit most comfortably. We must see them on horseback to
+_have seen_ them, but we shall probably have an opportunity of seeing
+them again.
+
+
+_June 18, 1814._
+
+On returning from Miss Fanshawe's we saw a royal carriage in George
+Street at Madame Moreau's, and we waited to see the Emperor and the
+Duchess (of Oldenburg) get into the carriage. He was in a plain blue
+coat; she without her curious bonnet, so that I had a good view of her
+face, which I had the satisfaction of finding exactly what I wished to
+see. The extreme simplicity of her dress--she had nothing but a plain
+white gown and plain straw hat, with no ornament of any sort--and her
+very youthful appearance made me doubt whether it was really the
+Duchess; but it was.
+
+She is very little, and there is a strong expression of intelligence,
+vivacity, and youthful, unsophisticated animation in her countenance. I
+fancied I could see so much of her character in the brisk step with
+which she jumped into the carriage, and the unassuming, lively smile
+with which she bowed to the people.
+
+The Emperor looks like a gentleman--but a country gentleman, not like an
+Emperor. His head is very like R. Heber's. The Duchess allowed herself
+to be pleased and to express her pleasure at all the sights without the
+least restraint. She asks few questions, but those very pertinent. She
+is impatient at being detained long over anything, but anxious to
+silence those who would hence infer that she runs over everything
+superficially, without gaining or retaining real knowledge.
+
+At Woolwich she was asked if she would see the steam-engines. "No, she
+had seen them already, and understood them perfectly." As they passed
+the open door she turned her head to look at the machinery, and
+instantly exclaimed, "Oh, that is one of Maudesley's engines," her eye
+immediately catching the peculiarity of the construction.
+
+
+LONDON, _June 22, 1814_.
+
+In the middle of Edward's sermon at St. George's to-day somebody in our
+pew whispered it round that there was the King of Prussia[35] in the
+Gallery. I looked as directed, and fixed my eyes on a melancholy,
+pensive, interesting face, exactly answering the descriptions of the
+King, and immediately fell into a train of very satisfactory reflection
+and conjecture on the expression of his physiognomy, for which twenty
+minutes afforded me ample time. The King was the only one I had not
+seen, therefore this opportunity of studying his face so completely was
+particularly valuable. When the prayer after the sermon was concluded,
+my informer said the King was gone, when, to my utter disappointment, I
+beheld my Hero still standing in the Gallery, and discovered I had
+pitched upon a wrong person, and wasted all my observations on a face
+that it did not really signify whether it looked merry or sad, and
+entirely missed the sight of the real King, who was in the next pew.
+
+Nothing but his sending to offer Edward a Chaplaincy in Berlin for his
+excellent sermon can possibly console me, except, indeed, the _honour by
+itself_ of having preached before a King of Prussia, which can never
+happen again in his life.
+
+...The Duchess of Oldenburg took all the merchants by surprise the other
+day. They had no idea she was coming to their dinner; she was the only
+lady, and she was rather a nuisance to them, as they had provided a
+hundred musicians, who could not perform, as she cannot bear music.[36]
+She was highly amused at the scene and with their "Hip! Hip!"
+
+
+MONDAY, _June 23, 1814_.
+
+At our dinner Mr. Tennant came in late, with many apologies, but really
+he had been hunting the Emperor--waiting for him two hours at one place
+and two hours at another, and came away at last without seeing him at
+all.
+
+He said, in his dry way, that "Have you seen the Emperor?" has entirely
+superseded the use of "How do you do?"
+
+In the morning he had gone into a shop to buy some gloves, and whilst he
+was trying them on the shopman suddenly exclaimed, "Bluecher! Bluecher!"
+cleared the counter at a leap, followed by all the apprentices, and Mr.
+Tennant remained soberly amongst the gloves to make his own selection,
+for he saw nothing more of his dealers.
+
+Rooms are letting to-day in the City at 60 guineas a room, or a guinea a
+seat for the procession. Tickets for places to see it from White's to be
+had at Hookham's for 80 guineas; 50 have been refused.
+
+Your letter revived me after five hours' walking and standing, and
+running after reviews, &c.
+
+I did see the King of Prussia, to be sure, and the Prince, and the
+people climbing up the trees like the grubs on the gooseberry bushes,
+and heard the _feu de joie_, whose crescendo and diminuendo was very
+fine indeed, but altogether it was not worth the trouble of being tired
+and squeezed for.
+
+At the reception at Sir Joseph Banks's house last night the most
+interesting object of the evening was a sword come down from heaven on
+purpose for the Emperor! Let the Prince Regent and his garters and his
+orders, and the merchants and the aldermen and everybody hide their
+diminished heads! What are they and their gifts to the Philosophers'?
+
+This is literally a sword made by Sowerby from the iron from some
+meteoric stones lately fallen--of course in honour of the Emperor. There
+is an inscription on it something to this effect, but not so neat as
+the subject demanded, and it is to be presented to Alexander--who does
+not deserve it, by the by, for having entirely neglected Sir Joseph
+amongst all the great sights and great men, which has rather mortified
+the poor old man.
+
+
+LONDON, _Monday night_.
+
+They are off, and in spite of all my friends' predictions to the
+contrary, I am here.
+
+Edward went this morning to Portsmouth on his way to Havre, but the
+Havre packet is employed in pleasuring people up and down to see the
+ships. Not a bed is to be had in the place, so he has secured his berth
+in the packet, if he can find her, and get on board at night after her
+morning's excursions.
+
+Standing room is to be had in the streets for three shillings; seats are
+putting up in and for two miles out of the town; all the laurels cut
+down to stick upon poles; in short, everybody is madder there than in
+London.
+
+Can the English ever be called cool and phlegmatic again? It is really a
+pity some metaphysicianising philosopher is not here to observe,
+describe, and theorise on the extraordinary symptoms and effects of
+enthusiasm, curiosity, insanity--I am sure I do not know what to call
+it--en masse.
+
+One should have supposed that the great objects would have swallowed up
+the little ones. No such thing! they have only made the appetite for
+them more ravenous.
+
+The mob got hold of Lord Hill[37] in the Park at the review, and did
+literally pull his coat and his belt to pieces. He snatched off his
+Order of the Bath, and gave it to Major Churchill, who put it in the
+holster of his saddle, where he preserved it from the mob only by
+drawing his sword and declaring he would cut any man's hand off who
+touched it. Some kissed his sword, his boots, his spurs, or anything
+they could touch; they pulled hair out of his horse's tail, and one
+butcher's boy who arrived at the happiness of shaking his hand, they
+chaired, exclaiming, "This is the man who has shaken hands with Lord
+Hill!" At last they tore his sword off by breaking the belt and then
+handed it round from one to another to be kissed.
+
+My regret at not having been at White's is stronger than my desire to go
+was; it must have been the most splendid and interesting sight one could
+ever hope to see.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+On Friday, June 27th, Edward Stanley and Edward Leycester finally set
+off and sailed from Portsmouth, all gay with festivities in honour of
+the Allied Sovereigns.
+
+Mrs. Stanley was left to spend the time of their absence at her father's
+house in Cheshire, but the keen interest with which she would have
+shared the journey was not forgotten by her husband.
+
+The events of the tour were minutely chronicled in his letters to her,
+and not only in letters, but in sketch books, filled to overflowing with
+every strange group and figure which met the travellers on their way,
+through countries which had been, although so near, prohibited for such
+a long time that they had almost the interest of unknown lands.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+STOKE, _July 4, 1814_.
+
+...That my curiosity may not catch cold in the too sudden transition
+from exercise to inaction, the Shropshire and Cheshire Heroes have
+followed me down here, and I have had the pleasure of seeing and hearing
+of the crowds going to touch (for that is the present fashion of seeing,
+or, to speak philosophically, _mode_ of _perception_) Lord Hill; and
+yesterday I met Lord Combermere and his Bride at Alderley, and a worthy
+Hero he is for Cheshire!
+
+A folio from Havre just arrived. I am very noble, very virtuous, and
+very disinterested--pray assure me so, for nothing else can console
+me--it is too entertaining to send one extract.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III
+
+UNDER THE BOURBON FLAG
+
+French prisoners--Oldenburg bonnets--"Fugio ut Fulgor"--Soldiers of
+the Empire--Paris--A French hotel--A walk through Paris--Portrait
+of Madame de Stael--An English ambassador--The Louvre--French
+tragedy--The heights of Montmartre--Cossacks in the Champs
+Elysees--L900 for substitute--Napoleon's legacies to his
+successor--A dinner at the English Embassy--Botany and
+mineralogy--Party at Madame de Staels--A debate in the Corps
+Legislatif--Malmaison--Elbowing the marshals--St Cloud and
+Trianon--The Catacombs.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Wife._
+
+
+LETTER I.
+
+HAVRE, _June 26, 1814_.
+
+We have passed the Rubicon--nous voila en France, all new, interesting,
+and delightful. I know not where or how to begin--the observations of an
+hour were I to paint in Miniature would fill my sheet; however, you must
+not expect arrangement but read a sort of higgledy-piggledy journal as
+things run through my head. I must pin them down like my Butterflies as
+they pass, or they will be gone for ever.
+
+At half-past four on Friday we sailed from Portsmouth, and saw the fleet
+in the highest beauty--amongst them all while they were under sail
+tacking, &c.; the delay has not been lost time. I should observe before
+I quit the subject of Portsmouth events, that the Emperor could not find
+time to sail about for mere amusement two days, this he left to the P.
+R.[38] He (the Emperor) and the Duchess of Oldenburg occupied themselves
+in visiting the Dockyards, Machinery, Haslar Hospital--in short,
+everything worthy the notice of enlightened beings....
+
+Our passengers were numerous, about 25 in a vessel of as many tons, with
+only six what they called regular sleeping-places.... But I had no
+reason to complain, our party was in many respects excellent--one, a
+jewel of no ordinary value, by name Mr. John Cross, of whom I must
+enquire more. I have seldom met with a man of more general and at the
+same time deep information; he seemed perfect in everything. Mineralogy,
+Antiquities, Chemistry, literature, human nature were at his fingers'
+ends, and most gentlemanly manners into the bargain....
+
+Amongst others we had three French officers, prisoners returning home.
+They had not met before that evening, but had you heard their
+incomparable voices when they sang their trios, you would have supposed
+they had practised together for years. Mr. John Cross alone surpassed
+them in their art. These gentlemen were certainly not _hostile_ to
+Bonaparte, but to gratify their musical taste they stuck at
+nothing--"God save the King," "Rule Britannia," "The Downfall of Paris"
+were chaunted in swift succession, and the following commencement of one
+of their songs will show the popular opinion of Bonaparte's campaign in
+Russia:--
+
+    "Quel est le Monarque qui peut
+         Etre si fou
+     Que d'aller a Moscou
+     Pour perdre sa grande armee?"
+
+A fair wind brought us in sight of the French coast early on Saturday.
+At 11 we were under the headland of Havre, and at 12 anchored in the
+bay, and were in an instant surrounded by chattering boatfuls who talked
+much but did nothing. On landing we were escorted to the Passport Office
+and most civilly received there; the difference, indeed, between public
+offices in England and France is quite glaring. Even the Custom house
+Officers apologised for keeping us waiting for the form of searching;
+and tho' the Underlings condescended to take a Franc or two, the Officer
+himself, when I offered money, turned away his head and hand and cried,
+"Ba, Ba, Non, Non," with such apparent sincerity that I felt as if I had
+insulted him by offering it....
+
+The whole process of getting our passports signed, &c., being over, we
+went to an Hotel. "Ici, garcon, vite mettez Messieurs les Anglois a
+l'onzieme," cried a landlady--and such a landlady! and up we scampered
+to the 5th storey (there are more still above us) and to this said, "No
+onzieme." ...
+
+We lost no time in the evening in looking about us; the town is situated
+about two miles up the Seine on a sort of Peninsula surrounded with very
+regular and strong fortifications. Its docks are incomparable, and
+Bonaparte would have added still more to their magnificence, but now all
+is at a stand--the grass is quietly filling up spaces hitherto taken up
+by soldiers, Workmen, shot and guns; the numberless merchant vessels in
+a state of decay proved sufficiently the entire destruction of all
+trade; but what gave me particular satisfaction was the sight of a
+flotilla of Praams, luggers, intended for the invasion of England, all
+reposing in a happy progress to speedy putrefaction and decay. About a
+mile from the town on the hill is a beautiful village called St. Michel,
+where the Havre citizens have country houses. The town itself is as
+singular as heart can wish--indeed, I am firmly convinced that the
+difference between the towns of the Earth and Moon is not greater than
+that between those of England and France. I scarcely know how to
+describe it to you. Conceive to yourself a long street of immensely tall
+houses from 5 to 8 Stories, _huddled_, for huddling is the only word
+which can convey my meaning, and in truth their extraordinary height and
+narrow breadth seem rather the effect of compression than design....
+These houses are inhabited by various families of various occupations
+and tastes, so that each Storey has its own peculiar character--here you
+see a smart Balcony with windows to the ground, garnished above and
+below with the insignia of washing woman or taylor. They are built of
+all materials, though I think chiefly of wood (like our old Cheshire
+houses) and stucco; and, thanks to time and the filth and poverty of the
+people, their exterior assumes a general tint of pleasing dirty
+picturesque. This said dirt may have its advantages as far as the eye is
+concerned, but the nose is terribly assailed by the innumerable
+compounded Effluvias which flow from every Alley-hole and corner. For
+the people and their dress! who shall venture to describe the things I
+have seen in the shape of caps, hats and bonnets, cloaks and petticoats,
+&c.? There I meet a group of Oldenburg Bonnets broader and more loaded
+with flowers, bunches, bows, plumes than any we saw in London, and would
+you believe it I am already not merely getting reconciled but absolutely
+an admirer of them.
+
+Having passed the groups of bonnets I meet at the next moment a set of
+beings ycleped Poissardes, caparisoned with coverings of all sorts,
+shapes, and sizes--here flaps a head decorated with lappets like
+butterflies' wings--here nods a bower of cloth and pins tall and narrow
+as the houses themselves, but I must not be too prolix on any one
+particular subject.
+
+
+_Sunday._
+
+We have been to the great Church. It was full, very full, but the
+congregation nearly all female.
+
+There is certainly something highly imposing and impressive in that
+general spirit of outward devotion at least which pervades all ranks.
+Nothing can be finer than their music: we had a sermon, too, and not a
+bad one. The order of things is somewhat reversed. In England we wear
+white bands and black gown, here the preacher had black bands and white
+gown, and I fear the eloquence of St. Paul would not prevent the smiles
+of my hearers in Alderley Church were I to pop on my head in the middle
+of the discourse a little black cap of which I enclose an accurate
+representation.
+
+What shall I say of political feeling? I think they appear to think or
+care very little about it; the military are certainly dissatisfied and
+the Innkeepers delighted, but further I know not what to tell you; I am
+told, however, that the new proclamation for the more decent observance
+of Sunday, by forcing the Shopkeepers to shut up their shops during
+Mass, is considered a great grievance.....
+
+
+LETTER II.
+
+ROUEN, _June 28, 1814_.
+
+Foolish people are those who say it is not worth while to cross the
+water for a week. For a week! why, for an hour, for a minute, it would
+be worth the trouble--in a glance a torrent of news, ideas, feelings,
+and conceptions are poured in which are valuable through life. We staid
+at Havre till Monday morning, and though a Cantab friend of Edward's, on
+bundling into his cabriolet, expressed his astonishment we would think
+of staying a day, when he had seen more than enough of the filthy place
+in an hour, we amused ourselves very well till the moment of
+departure....
+
+At 4 on Monday we stepped into the cabriolet or front part of our
+diligence, on the panels of which was written "Fugio ut Fulgor," and
+though appearances were certainly against anything like compliance with
+this notice, the result was much nearer than I could have conceived.
+Five horses were yoked to this unwieldy caravan--two to the pole, and
+three before, and on one of these pole horses mounted a Driver without
+Stockings in Jack Boots, crack went an enormous whip, and away galloped
+our 5 coursers. It is astonishing how they can be managed by such simple
+means, yet so it was; we steered to a nicety sometimes in a trot,
+sometimes in a canter, sometimes on a full gallop.
+
+The time for changing horses by my watch was not more than one
+minute--before you knew one stage was passed another was commenced; they
+gave us 5 minutes to eat our breakfast--an operation something like that
+of ducks in a platter, the dish consisting of coffee and milk with rolls
+sopped in it. The roads are incomparable--better than ours and nearly if
+not quite as good as the Irish. The country from Havre to Rouen is rich
+in corn of every description--there is nothing particular in the face
+of it, and yet you would, if awakened from a dream, at once declare you
+were not in England; in the first place there are no hedges--the road
+was almost one continuous avenue of apple-trees; the timber trees are
+not planted in hedgerows but in little clumps or groves, sometimes but
+generally rather removed from the road, and it is amongst these that the
+villages and cottages are concealed, for it is surprising how few in
+comparison with England are seen. The trees are of two
+descriptions--either trimmed up to the very top or cut off so as to form
+underwood. I did not observe one that could be called a branching tree;
+the finest beech we saw looked like a pole with a tuft upon it. The
+cottages are mostly of clay, generally speaking very clean, and coming
+nearer to what I should define a cottage to be than ours in England.
+
+You see no cows in the fields, they are all tethered by the road-side or
+other places, by which a considerable quantity of grass must be saved,
+and each is attended by an old woman or child. We passed through 2 or 3
+small towns and entered Rouen 8 hours after quitting Havre, 57 miles.
+Rouen, beautiful Rouen, we entered through such an avenue of noble
+trees, its spires, hills and woods peeping forth, and the Seine winding
+up the country, wide as the Thames at Chelsea.
+
+Such a gateway! I have made a sketch, but were I to work it up for a
+month it would still fall far short and be an insult to the subject it
+attempts to represent. If Havre can strike the eye of a stranger, what
+must not Rouen do? Every step teems with novelty and richness, Gothic
+gateways, halls, and houses. What are our churches and cathedrals in
+England compared to the noble specimens of Gothic architecture which
+here present themselves?... Rouen has scarcely yet recovered from the
+dread they were in of the Cossacks, who were fully expected, and all
+valuables secreted--not that they were absolutely without news from the
+capital: the diligence had been stopped only once during the three days
+after the Allies entered Paris. Till then they had proceeded _comme a
+l'ordinaire_, and the diligence in which we are to proceed to-night left
+it when Shots were actually passing over the road during the battle of
+Montmartre--how they could find passengers to quit it at such an
+interesting moment I cannot conceive; had I been sure of being eaten up
+by a Horde of Cossacks, I could not have left the spot.
+
+What an odd people the French are! they will not allow they were in
+ignorance of public affairs before the entrance of the Allies. "Oh no,
+we had the Gazettes," they say, and I cannot find that they considered
+these Gazettes as doubtful authorities. We have plenty of troops
+here--genuine veterans horse and foot; I saw them out in line yesterday.
+The men were soldier-like looking fellows enough, but one of our cavalry
+regiments would have trotted over their horses in a minute without much
+ceremony; the army is certainly dissatisfied. Marmont is held in great
+contempt; they will have it he betrayed Paris, and say it would be by no
+means prudent for him to appear at the head of a line when there was any
+firing. The people may or may not like their emancipation from tyranny,
+but their vanity--they call it glory--has been tarnished by the
+surrender of Paris, and they declare on all hands that if Marmont had
+held out for a day Bonaparte would have arrived, and in an instant
+settled the business by defeating the Allies. In vain may you hint that
+he was inferior in point of numbers (to say anything of the skill and
+merit of the Russians perhaps would not have been very prudent), and
+that he could not have succeeded. A doubting shake of the head,
+significant shrug of the shoulders, and expressive "Ba, Ba," explain
+well enough their opinions on the subject.
+
+I cannot conceive a more grating badge to the officers than the white
+cockade--the fleur de lys is now generally adopted in place of the N and
+other insignia of Bonaparte, but, excepting from some begging boys, I
+have never heard the cry of "Vive Louis XVIII.!" and then it was done, I
+shrewdly suspect, as an acceptable cry for the Anglois, and followed
+immediately by "un pauvre petit liard, s'il vous plait, Mons." We went
+to the play last night; the house was filthy beyond description, and the
+company execrable as far as dress went; few women, and those in their
+morning dress and Oldenburg Bonnets--the men almost all officers, and a
+horrid-looking set they were. I would give them credit for military
+talents; they all looked like chiefs of banditti--swarthy visages,
+immense moustachios, vulgar, disgusting, dirty, and ill-bred in their
+appearance.
+
+From all I hear the account of the duels between these and the Russian
+officers at Paris were perfectly correct.[39]
+
+I am just come in from a stroll about the town. Among the most
+interesting circumstances that occurred was the inspection of
+detachments of several regiments quartered there. I happened to be close
+to the General when he addressed some Grenadiers de la Garde Imperiale
+on the subject of their dismissal, which it seems they wanted. They
+spoke to him without any respect, and on his explaining the terms on
+which their dismissal could alone be had, they appeared by no means
+satisfied, and when he went I heard one of them in talking to a party
+collected round him say, "Eh bien, s'il ne veut pas nous congedier, nous
+passerons." A man standing by told me a short time ago a regiment of
+Imperial Chasseurs when called upon to shout "Vive Louis XVIII.!" at
+Boulogne, to a man, officers included, cried "Vive Napoleon!" and I feel
+very certain that had the same thing been required to-day from the
+soldiers on the field, they would have acted in the same manner, and
+that the spectators would have cried "Amen."
+
+I heard abundance of curious remarks on the subject of the war, the
+peace, and the changes; they will have it they were not conquered. "Oh
+no." "Paris ne fut jamais vaincue--elle s'est soumise seulement!" I
+leave it to your English heads to define the difference between
+submission and conquest.
+
+Beef and mutton are 5d. per lb. here. Chickens 3s. the couple, though 24
+per cent. was probably added to me as an Englishman. Bread a 100 per
+cent. cheaper than in England--at least so I was informed by an
+Englishman in the commercial line. Fish cheap as dirt at Havre, 3 John
+Dorys for 6d.
+
+From Havre to Rouen, 57 miles, cost us L1 6s. for both; from thence to
+Paris, 107 miles, L2; our dinners, including wine, are about 4s. a head;
+breakfast 2s., beds 1s. 6d. each.
+
+
+LETTER III.
+
+PARIS, _June 30th_.
+
+Here we arrived about an hour ago; for the last two miles the country
+was a perfect garden--cherries, gooseberries, apple-trees, corn,
+vineyards, all chequered together in profusion; in other respects
+nothing remarkable....
+
+The first sight of Paris, or rather its situation, is about 10 miles
+off, when the heights of Montmartre, on one side, and the dome of the
+Hopital des Invalides on the other reminded us of their trophies and
+disasters at the same time....
+
+[Illustration: OLD BRIDGE AND CHATELET.
+
+_Paris July 4, 1814_
+
+_To face p. 108._
+
+Now you must enter our rooms in l'Hotel des Etrangers, rue du Hazard, as
+I know you wish to see minutely. First walk, if you please, into an
+antechamber paved with red hexagon tiles (dirty enough, to be sure), and
+the saloon also, into which you next enter through a pair of folding
+doors. This saloon is in the genuine tawdry French style--gold and
+silver carving work and dirt are the component features. It is about 20
+feet square, plenty of chairs, sofas of velvet, and so forth, but only
+one wretched rickety table in the centre. Two folding doors open into
+our bedroom, which is in furniture pretty much like the rest; the beds
+are excellent--fitted up in a sort of tent fashion--and mine has a
+looking-glass occupying the whole of one side, in which I may at leisure
+contemplate myself in my night-cap, for I cannot discover for what other
+purpose it was placed there.
+
+Now let us take a walk--put on thick shoes or you will find yourself
+rather troubled with the paving stones, for nothing like a flagged
+footpath exists; a slight inclination from each side terminates in a
+central gutter, from which are exploded showers of mud by the passing
+carriages and cabriolets. You must get on as you can; horse and foot,
+coaches and carts are jumbled together, and he who walks in Paris must
+have his eyes about him. The streets are in general narrow and
+irregular, and so much alike that it requires no small skill to find
+one's way home again. Ariadne in Paris would wish for her clue. First we
+ascended the bronze column[40] in the Place de Vendome--figure to
+yourself a column perfect in proportions much resembling Nelson's in
+Dublin, ornamented after the plan of Trajan's pillar--all of bronze, on
+which the operations of the wars and victories in Germany are recorded.
+Bonaparte's statue crowned it, but that was removed. The column itself,
+however, will remain an eternal statue commemorating his deeds, and
+though the Eagles and letter N are rapidly effacing from every quarter,
+this must last till Paris shall be no more. From the top of this pillar
+you of course have a magnificent view, and it must have been a choice
+spot from whence to behold the fight of Montmartre. It will scarcely
+interest you much to say much about the other public buildings, suffice
+it to say that all the improvements are in the very best
+style--magnificent to the last degree; they may be the works of a
+Tyrant, but it was a Tyrant of taste, who had more sense than to spend
+120,000 Louis in sky-rockets. His public buildings at least were for the
+public good, and were ornaments to his capital.
+
+But let us turn from inanimate to living objects; since I penned the
+last line I have been sitting with Mme. de Stael.... By appointment we
+called at 12.[41] For a few moments we waited in a gaudy drawing-room;
+the door then opened and an elderly form dressed _a la jeunesse_
+appeared; she is not ugly; she is not vulgar (Edward begs to differ from
+this opinion, he thinks her ugly beyond measure); her countenance is
+pleasing, but very different from anything my fancy had formed; a pale
+complexion not far from that of a white Mulatto, if you will allow me to
+make the bull; her eyebrows dark and her hair quite sable, dry and crisp
+like a negro's, though not quite so curling. She scarcely gave me time
+to make my compliments in French before she spoke in fluent English. I
+was not sorry she fought under British colors, for though she was never
+at a loss, I knew I could express and defend myself better than had she
+spoken in French. I hurried her as much as decency would permit from one
+subject to another, but I found politics were uppermost in her
+thoughts.... She was equally averse to both parties--to the royal
+because she said it was despotism; the Imperial because it was tyranny.
+"Is there," said I, "no happy medium; are there none who can feel the
+advantages of liberty, and wish for a free constitution?" "None," said
+she, "but myself and a few--some 12 or 15--we are nothing; not enough to
+make a dinner party." I ventured to throw in a little flattery--I knew
+my ground--and remarked that an opinion like hers, which had in some
+measure influenced Europe, was in itself an host; the compliment was
+well received, and in truth I could offer it _conscientiously_ to pay
+tribute to her abilities.
+
+On leaving Mme. de S. we paid another visit. From the greatest woman we
+went to see our greatest man in Paris, Sir Charles Stuart,[42] to whom
+Lord Sheffield had given me a letter of introduction. This had been sent
+the day before, and of course I now went to see the effect. After
+waiting in the Anti-chamber of the great man for about half an hour, and
+seeing divers and sundry faces pass and repass in review, we were
+summoned to an audience. We found a little, vulgar-looking man, whom I
+should have mistaken for the great man's butler if he had not first
+given a hint that he was bona fide the great man himself. I think the
+conversation was nearly thus: E. S.: "Pray, Sir, are the Marshalls in
+Paris, and if so is it easy to see them?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I
+don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir, is there anything interesting to a
+stranger like myself likely to take place in the course of the next
+fortnight?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." E. S.: "Pray, Sir,
+is the interior of the Thuilleries worth seeing, and could we easily see
+the apartments?" Sir C. S.: "Upon my soul I don't know." This, I do
+assure you, was the cream of the conversation. Now certainly a great man
+ought to look wise and say he does not know so and so, when in fact he
+knows all about it, but somehow or other I could not help thinking that
+Sir Charles spoke the truth, for if I may draw any inference from
+Physiognomy, I never saw a face upon which the character of "upon my
+soul I don't know" was more visibly stamped. I left my card, bowed, and
+retired....
+
+I next turned my eyes to the Louvre.[43] What are the exhibitions of
+London, modern or ancient? What are Lord Stafford's, Grosvenor's,
+Angerstein's, &c., in comparison with this unrivalled gallery? Words
+cannot describe the coup d'oeil. Figure to yourself a magnificent room so
+long that you would be unable to recognise a person at the other
+extremity, so long that the perspective lines terminate in a point,
+covered with the finest works of art all classed and numbered so as to
+afford the utmost facility of inspection; no questions asked on
+entering, no money to be given to bowing porters or butlers, no cards of
+admission procured by interest--all open to the public view, unfettered
+and unshackled; the liberality of the exhibition is increased by the
+appearance of Easels and desks occupied by artists who copy at leisure.
+It is noble and grand beyond imagination. In the Halls below are the
+Statues, arranged with equal taste, though, as they are in different
+rooms, the general effect is not so striking. I recognised all my old
+friends, the Venus de Medicis was alone new to me. She is sadly
+mutilated, but is still the admiration of all persons of sound judgment
+and orthodox taste, amongst whom, I regret to say, I deserve not to be
+classed, as I really cannot enter into the merits of statues, and the
+difference between a perfect and moderate specimen of sculpture appears
+to me infinitely less than between good and moderate paintings....
+
+After dining at a Restaurateur's, who gave us a most excellent dinner,
+wine, &c., for about 3s. a head, we went to the Theatre Francais, or the
+Drury Lane of Paris. We expected to see Talma[44] in Merope, but his
+part was taken by one who is equally famous, Dufour, and the female part
+by Mme. Roncour. She was intolerable, though apparently a great
+favourite; he tolerable, and that is all I can say. In truth, French
+tragedy is little to my taste.... The best part of the play was the
+opportunity it afforded "les bonnes gens" de Paris to show their
+loyalty, and much gratified I was in hearing some enthusiastic applause
+of certain passages as they applied to the return of their ancient
+sovereign. There is something very sombre and vulgar in the French
+playhouses with the men's boots and the women's bonnets. Could I in an
+instant waft you from the solitudes of Stoke to the clatter of Paris,
+how you would stare to see the boxes filled with persons almost
+extinguished in their enormous casques of straw and flowers. I have seen
+several bearing, in addition to other ornaments, a bunch of 5 or 6
+lilies as large as life....
+
+[Illustration: POMP. NOTRE DAME.
+
+_Paris, July 11, 1814._
+
+_To face p. 115._]
+
+
+LETTER IV.
+
+PARIS, _July 8, 1814_.
+
+You will take for granted we have seen all the exhibitions, libraries,
+&c., of Paris; they will wait for more ample description--a glance on
+one or two will be sufficient.
+
+L'Hopital des Invalides was, you know, famous for its magnificent dome,
+which was decorated with flags, standards, and trophies of the
+victorious arms of France; impatient to shew them to Edward, I hastened
+thither, but alas, not a pennant remains. On the near approach of the
+Allies they were taken down, and some say burnt, others buried, others
+removed to a distance. I asked one of the Invalides whether the Allies
+had not got possession of a few. With great indignation and animation he
+exclaimed, "Je suis aussi sur que je suis de mon existence qu'il n'out
+pas pris un _seul_ meme."
+
+On Sunday last, after having hunted everywhere for a Protestant church,
+one of which we found at last by some blunder quite empty, we went with
+our landlord, a serjeant in the national guard, to inspect the heights
+of Chaumont, Belleville, and Mt. Martre.... We ascended from the town
+for about 3 miles to a sort of large rambling village, in situation and
+circumstances somewhat like Highgate. This was Belleville, whose heights
+run on receding from Paris a considerable distance, but terminate rather
+abruptly in the direction of Mont Martre, from which they are separated
+by a low, swampy valley containing all the dead horses, filth, and
+exuvious putrefactions of Paris.... Immediately below, extending for
+many miles, including St. Denis and other villages, are fine plains;
+upon which plains about 3 in the morning the Russians deployed, and the
+Spectacle must have been interesting beyond measure.... On the heights
+and towards the base were assembled part of Marmont's[45] army with
+their field pieces and some few heavier guns; there, too, were stationed
+the greater part of the students of l'Ecole Polytechnique, corresponding
+to our Woolwich cadets. Nothing could surpass their conduct when their
+brethren in arms fled; they clung to their guns and were nearly all
+annihilated. I was assured that their bodies were found in masses on the
+spot where they were originally stationed; their number was about
+300.... I met a few in the course of the day who were, like ourselves,
+contemplating the field of battle, and who spoke like the rest of their
+countrymen of the baseness of Marmont and treachery of the day. The
+cannonade must have been pretty sharp while it lasted, as about 5,000
+Russians perished before they got possession of the heights--though the
+actual operation of storming did not occupy half an hour--but their
+lines were quite open to a severe fire of grape from eminences
+commanding every inch of the plain. Whilst this work was going on at
+Belleville, another Russian column performed a similar service at Mt.
+Martre, which is nearer Paris--in fact, immediately above the
+Barriers.... Thither our guide next conducted us, and pointed out the
+particular spots where the assault and carnage were most desperate. A
+number of Parties were walking about and all talking of the battle or
+Bonaparte.... Till this day I had never heard him openly and honestly
+avowed, but here I had several opportunities of incorporating myself in
+groups in which his name was bandied about with every invective which
+French hatred and fluency could invent. Their tongues, like Baron
+Munchausen's horn, seemed to run with an accumulated rapidity from the
+long embargo laid upon them. "Sacre gueux, bete, voleur," &c., were the
+current coin in which they repaid his despotism, and I was happy to find
+that his conduct in Spain was by all held in utter detestation and
+considered as the ground work of his ruin.
+
+I saw one party in such a state of bodily and mental agitation that I
+ran up expecting to see a battle, but the multiplicity of hands, arms,
+and legs which were rising, falling, wheeling, and kicking, were merely
+energetic additions to the general subject.... The National guard were
+not (with few exceptions) actually engaged. To the amount of 36,000 they
+occupied the towns and barriers, by all accounts guessing, or, as one
+intelligent conductor assured us, very certain that they would not be
+called upon to fight much for the defence of Paris.... Indeed, from all
+I have been able to learn, and from all I have been able to see, it
+appears pretty clear that no serious defence was intended--a little
+opposition was necessary for the look of the thing. And although Marmont
+might have done more, I feel convinced that had he exerted himself to
+the utmost, Paris must have perished.
+
+The heights were defended in a very inadequate and unsoldierlike manner;
+not a single work was thrown up before the guns, no entrenchments, no
+bastions, and yet with three days' notice all this might have easily
+been done. The barriers all round Paris were, and still are, hemmed
+round with Palisades with loop holes, each of which might have been
+demolished by half a dozen rounds from a 6-pounder; the French, indeed,
+laugh at them and consider them as mere divertissements of Bonaparte's,
+and feeble attempts to excite a spirit of defence amongst the people--a
+spirit which, fortunately for Europe, was never excited. The lads of
+Paris had determined to take their chance and not to do one atom more
+than they were called upon or compelled to do. These wooden barriers
+are made of le bois de tremble (aspen), and the pun was that the
+fortifications "tremblaient partout." You will like to hear something of
+Edgeworth's friend, St. Jean d'Angely;[46] he came up to the barrier
+where our landlord (who had been formerly an imperial guardsman and
+fought in the battle of Marengo) was posted; here he called loudly for
+some brandy, for which he got laughed at by the whole line of guard; he
+then sallied forth and proceeded a short distance, when his horse took
+fright, and as St. Jean was, as our landlord told us, "entierement du
+meme avis avec son cheval," they both set off as fast as they could, and
+were in a few minutes far beyond all danger, nor did they appear again
+amid the din of arms. The fate of Paris was decided with a rapidity and
+sang-froid quite astonishing. By 5 o'clock in the Evening all was
+entirely at an end, and the national guard and allies incorporated and
+doing the usual duty of the town. They were, indeed, under arms a little
+longer than usual, and a few more sentries were placed and the theatre
+not open that Evening, but that single evening was the only exception,
+and the next day the Palais Royal was as brilliant and more cheerful
+than ever, with its motley groups of visitors. The Cossacks were not
+quartered in the Palais Royal, they were in the Ch. Elysees, the trees
+of which bear visible marks of their horses' teeth, but a good many came
+in from curiosity and hung their horses in the open space of the
+Palais.... The Russian discipline was most severe, and not an article
+was taken from any individual with impunity, immediate death was the
+punishment. The field of battle bore few marks of the event--a few
+skeletons of horses and rags of uniforms; the more surprising thing is
+that, notwithstanding all the trampling of horse and foot on the plains
+below so late as the end of March, the corn has not suffered in the
+slightest degree. I wish the Alderley crops were as good.
+
+You have no idea of the severity of the conscription. That men can be
+attached to a being who dragged them, with such violence to every
+feeling, from their homes would be astonishing, but for the well-known
+force of the "selfish principle" which amalgamates their glory with his.
+A friend of our landlord's paid at various times 18,000 fr., about L900;
+he thought himself safe, but Bonaparte wanted a Volunteer guard of
+honour; he was told it would be prudent to enroll himself, which in
+consideration of the great sums he had paid would be merely a nominal
+business, and that he would never be called upon. He did put his name
+down; was called out in a trice and shot in the next campaign. Our
+waiter at Rouen assured me his friends had bought him off by giving in
+the first instance L25 for a substitute, with an annuity to the said
+substitute of an equal sum--pretty well this, for a poor lad of about
+16.
+
+Thanks to our landlord and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we might have been
+introduced into the Thuilleries, but came too late. We lost nothing, as
+after Mass the King marched through a beautiful sort of Glass gallery
+facing the Thuilleries Gardens, and then came out into a Balcony to shew
+himself to the crowd there assembled! he was received with universal and
+loud applause. "Vive le Roi!" was heard as loud as heart could wish,
+hats, sticks and handkerchiefs were flying in all directions. When he
+entered Paris, in one of the Barriers a sort of Archway was made and so
+contrived that as the carriage passed under a crown fell upon it, a band
+at the same time striking up "Ou peut on etre mieux que dans le sein de
+sa famille," which is, you know, one of their favourite airs.
+
+Poor man, he has enough to do, and will, I fear, experience a turbulent
+reign. Bonaparte has left his troops 3 years in arrears, the treasury
+empty, two parties equally clamourous for places and pensions, both of
+which must be satisfied. Their taxes are heavier than I thought they
+were. Our landlord has an estate worth about 2,000 frcs., his father
+paid 200 fr. a year for it, and he is now under the necessity of paying
+1,200, having only a clear surplus of 800, and the finances are at too
+low an ebb to allow of any immediate reduction in their taxes....
+
+To take things in their course, I must now proceed to my dinner at Sir
+Charles Stuart's. I was shewn into a room where I found three or four
+Englishmen gaping at one another. Before many more had assembled, in
+came Sir C., and I _believe_, or rather I am willing to flatter myself,
+he made a sort of half bow towards us, and then we stood and gaped
+again; a few more words between him and one or two who were to go to
+Court the day after, but to me and some others not a syllable of any
+description was uttered, and when some more English were shewn in who
+were, I presume, as respectable as myself, his behaviour was quite
+boorish, he did not condescend to look towards the door. These things
+went on till a throng of Spaniards with Stars and orders came in; with
+these he appeared tolerably intimate, and also with three Englishmen who
+afterwards appeared. We were about 24 in number, and all I had to do in
+the half-hour preceding dinner was to look out for the most intelligent,
+gentleman-like-looking Englishman I could, to secure a place by him....
+
+You will ask who I met. I protest to you that I went and returned
+without being able to learn more than that the secretary's name was
+Bidwell, and that one other person in company was a Mr. Martin, who had
+been agent for prisoners; of the rest I knew nothing, not even of my
+neighbour; birth, parentage, and education were alike involved in the
+cloud of diplomatic mystery which seemed to impend heavily over this
+mansion, and when my neighbour asked me, or I asked him, the names of
+any person present the answer was mutual--"I don't know." Sir Charles
+sat in the centre with a gold-coated Don on each side of him, with whom
+he might have whispered, for though I sat within two of his Excellency,
+I never heard the sound of his voice: however, my opinion may not
+coincide with all that pass from Calais to Dover, as I heard one man
+remark to another that his countenance was very pleasing, to which was
+added in reply, "and he is a very sensible man." These things may be,
+but I never met with one more perfect in the art of concealing his
+talents.
+
+Now for the Jardin des Plantes and its lectures. This same Jardin is a
+large space appropriated to Botanical pursuits, public walks,
+menageries, museums, &c. There you see Bears and Lions and, in fact, the
+finest collection of Birds and Beasts alive, some in little paddocks,
+others in clean and airy dens. But this is the least part of this
+delightful establishment; its museums and cabinets are like the Louvre,
+the finest collection in the world. Everything is arranged in such order
+that it is almost impossible to see it without feeling a love of
+science; here the mineralogist, geologist, naturalist, entomologist may
+each pursue his favourite studies unmolested. Here, as everywhere else,
+the utmost liberality is shewn to all, but to Englishmen particularly,
+your country is your passport. Like the mysterious "Open Sesame" in the
+Arabian nights, you have only to say, "Je suis Anglais" and you go in
+and out at pleasure. I have seen Frenchmen begging in vain with ladies
+and officers of the party and turned away because they had happened on
+the wrong day or hour, and then we, without solicitation, have been
+desired to walk in. But all these museums and living animals, curious
+and interesting as they are, are surpassed by the still greater
+liberality shewn in the daily lectures given by the members of the
+Institute or Professors of the several sciences. I have attended
+Haiiy,[47] Dumeril,[48] l'Ettorel, du Mare, and others upon Mineralogy,
+Nat. Hist., and Entomology, and Haiiy, you know, is the first
+mineralogist in Europe, and I never looked upon a more interesting
+being. When he entered the lecture room, every one rose out of respect,
+and well they might. He is 80 years of age apparently, with a most
+heavenly patriarchal countenance and silver hair; his teeth are gone, so
+that I could not understand a word he said, though, indeed, had he been
+possessed of all the teeth in Christendom I apprehend I should not have
+been much wiser, as he lectured on the angular forms of the Amphiboles.
+He looked like a man picked out of a crystal, and when he dies he ought
+to be reincarnated and placed in his own museum.
+
+Another Scene to which I found my way was equally interesting: I went to
+a lecture on Iconographic drawing, or Science, as it was called, of
+representing natural subjects. In other words, when I got there I found
+it was a professorship of drawing, everything connected with Nat. Hist.,
+such as flowers, animals, insects; and the Professor lectures one day
+and practically instructs on another. I happened to be present at one
+of the latter. Conceive my surprise at finding myself in a large library
+filled with tables, drawing books, ladies and gentlemen all sketching
+either from nature or excellent copies here. As it was not a public day
+except to those who wished to attend for instruction, I ought not with
+propriety to have intruded, but "J'etais Anglois" and every attention
+was paid. You would have given a little finger to have seen the room; it
+was a hot summer's day, but there all was cool and fragrant; the windows
+opened on the gardens, the tables were covered with groupes of flowers
+in vases; the company, about 40, were seated up and down where ever they
+chose, each with a nice desk and drawing board--in short, it was a scene
+which excited feelings of respect for a nation which thus patronised
+everything which could add to the rational improvement of its members.
+Were France the seat of religion and pure virtue it would be Utopia
+verified; but, alas! there are spots which stain the picture and cast a
+balance decidedly in favour of England: we are rough, we are
+narrow-minded, but he who travels is brought to confess and say
+"England! with all thy faults I love thee still." ...
+
+
+LETTER V.
+
+PARIS, _July 10th_.
+
+Madame de Staels party formed a fine contrast to the gloom and
+ponderosity of Sir Charles Stuart's dinner the day before. We went a
+quarter before nine, thinking, as it was the nominal hour, it would be
+ill-bred to go too early, but the French are more punctual in these
+matters, for we found the good people all assembled and Marmont[49]
+walked out not five minutes before we walked in.
+
+In his stead we had General Lafayette,[50] the cornerstone of the
+Revolution. He is a tall, clumsy-made man, not much unlike Dr.
+Nightingale, tho' rather thinner. His countenance discovers thought and
+sound judgment, but by no means quickness or brilliancy; his manners
+were quiet, unassuming, and gentleman-like. He spoke little, and then
+said nothing particularly worth notice.
+
+The next lion announced was a lioness, the celebrated Madame
+Recamier,[51] and though she is not in her premiere jeunesse, I can
+easily conceive how she could once dazzle the world. It would be too
+much to give her credit for superior talents, but her manners were very
+agreeable tho' rather like all other belles of France who have fallen in
+my way, somewhat a la languissante. But I am all this while forgetting
+the star of the evening, the Baroness herself. She sat in a line with
+about six ladies, before whom were arranged as many gentlemen, all
+listening to the oracular tongue of their political Sybil.
+
+She was in high spirits because she had been warmed up by the decision
+of the court and commons concerning the liberty of the press, which had
+received an effectual check by limiting all liberty of speech and
+opinion to works containing not less than 480 pages, thus excluding the
+papers and pamphlets. The moment we were announced, before she asked me
+how I did, she enquired whether I had heard this notable decision, and
+then demanded what I thought of it. Of course, I assured her how much I
+lamented the prospect of an inundation of dull, prolix books to which
+France was thus inevitably exposed. This, as we spoke in English, she
+immediately translated for the benefit of the company, adding "Ce
+Monsieur Anglois dit cela, et c'est bien vrai il a raison," and then she
+laughed and seemed to enjoy the catalogue of stupid books which might be
+anticipated.
+
+I must confess the party was a little formidable; in England I should
+have said formal, but there is something in French manners wholly
+foreign to any application of the word formal, and really after
+exchanging a few remarks I was glad to be introduced to her son[52] and
+daughter,[53] with both of whom I was much pleased. They are clever and
+agreeable. She is not above eighteen or twenty, and if her complexion
+was good would be very pretty. She was not shy, beginning conversation
+in a trice upon interesting subjects. She compared the English and
+French character, in which she (and I presume it was a maternal opinion)
+would not allow an atom of merit to the latter. On finding that I was a
+clergyman she immediately began upon Religion, talked of Hodgson,[54]
+Andrews, Wilberforce,[55] and then in questioning me about the
+Methodists (about whom she seemed to have heard much and entertained
+confused notions) we slid into mysticism, which carried us, of course,
+into the third vol. of "Allemagne"; she spoke in raptures of the mystic
+school, said she was quite one in heart--"Cela se peut," thought I; but
+somehow or other "Je ne le crois pas," for I have heard some little
+anecdotes of her mother, in which, whatever may be her theoretical views
+of mysticism, her practical opinions are rather more lax than Fenelon's.
+Much against my will I took my leave, willing to hope that Mme. S. spoke
+the truth when she said how glad she should be to see me if I visited
+Paris during the winter; she is off to Switzerland in a few days. The
+French say we have spoilt her--in fact, she occupies little of the
+public attention in Paris.
+
+The next event most interesting was our visit to the Corps Legislatif,
+or House of Commons. We went to a certain door, to which we were refused
+admittance, and told it was too full or too late. But said I, "Nous
+sommes Anglois"; in an instant a man came up and placed us in an inner
+gallery in the body of the house. The House is something like the Royal
+Institution--of course larger and beautifully fitted up. Considering it
+as the Royal Institution for your better comprehension, the President
+sits on a tribunal throne in a recess corresponding to the fire-place;
+immediately below is a sort of Rostrum from whence the Members speak, in
+situation like the lecturer of the R.I. In point of decoration and
+external appearance both of house and members, it is far superior to our
+House of Commons, as all the members wear uniforms of blue and gold, but
+taking it all together I know not that anything can be more illustrative
+of the French Character--externally all correct and delightful, but
+within "a sad rottenness of the state of Denmark."
+
+The president began the proceedings by ringing a bell; a paper was then
+read detailing, I believe, the orders of the day. A member then arose
+and went to the Rostrum. In the middle of his speech he was called to
+order and told it was a very bad speech, so down he came and another
+mounted. He was equally disliked, for they told him he spoke too low and
+they could not hear him, so he disappeared; then half a dozen got up and
+were so impatient that they began speaking altogether before they
+reached the Tribune. In vain did the President ring his bell, and stand
+up and gesticulate. Silence, however, was at length obtained, and he
+addressed them, but with little better success than the rest. One man
+then stept forward and did obtain a hearing, for he had good lungs and a
+fair share of eloquence. His speech was short, but it was by far the
+best; his name was Dumolard.[56] Soon afterwards the sitting broke up;
+the whole took up little more than an hour. I know not whether the
+perfect want of order was more ridiculous or disgusting; the sittings of
+the Senate (Peers) are private....
+
+We will now take you to Malmaison, the interesting retreat of the
+interesting Josephine. Her character was scarcely known in England. We
+hear little more of her than as a discarded Empress or Mistress of
+Buonaparte's, but she had much to recommend her to public as well as
+private notice. The French all speak highly of her, and it is
+impossible, on seeing Malmaison and hearing of her virtues, not to join
+in their opinion. To be sure, as a Frenchman told me in running through
+a list of virtues, "Elle avait ete un peu libertine, mais ce n'est rien
+cela," and, indeed, I could almost have added, "C'est bien vrai," for
+every allowance should be made; consider the situation in which she was
+placed, her education, her temptations; many a saint might have fallen
+from the eminence on which she stood; I never dwelt with more
+satisfaction or felt more inclined to coincide in that benevolent
+verdict of the best of judges of human nature and human frailty,
+"Neither do I condemn thee, go and sin no more," than in criticising the
+character of Josephine.
+
+[Illustration: MALMAISON]
+
+I am not sure whether you know exactly the history of Malmaison. The
+house and land attached to it were purchased by Buonaparte when First
+Consul, and given to Josephine, who made it what it is, and bought more
+land, so that it is now in fact a little Estate. On being divorced, she
+retired thither with Eugene Beauharnais, her son, and younger children.
+Her pursuits and occupations will be best understood by describing what
+we saw. I should say, before I proceed, that it required some interest
+to get in, and that we went with the Hibberts, who knew the secretary of
+the Swedish Ambassador, in whose suite we were incorporated for
+admission. The chief room in the house is what is called the Gallery A,
+planned and finished according to her own designs; the floor is a mass
+of dark inlaid marble, the ceiling arched and light admitted from it,
+the whole not much unlike the Gallery at Winnington on a much larger
+scale. It would be difficult to describe the fitting up of the interior.
+The walls are hung with the most exquisite selections from ancient
+Masters, not stolen, but many given to her, and the rest purchased by
+herself; but I was more struck by the statues than with any thing else.
+The dots represent them and their situations in the Gallery; they are
+chiefly by two modern artists, Canova and Boher, though I fear the
+reputation of my taste and judgment will suffer by the confession. I
+still must confess that I felt far more pleasure than in looking either
+upon Apollo or the Venus de Medicis. There was a Bust and Statue of
+herself, the latter particularly beautiful, and if accurate, which I was
+assured it was, the original must have been elegant and interesting to
+the last degree. It reminded me much of Lady Charlemont, with a stronger
+expression of sense. The rest of the room was furnished with tables
+inlaid with marble, upon which were a variety of bronzes, pieces of
+armour, &c., and her musical instruments were as she had left them, and
+everything wore an appearance of comfort which is seldom seen in the
+midst of such magnificence. Through folding doors you enter into a
+smaller room hung with pictures. C. was her chapel; before a little
+unostentatious altar, which had every appearance of having daily
+witnessed her devotions, was a beautiful Raphael; the walls were hung
+with seven small Scripture subjects by Poussin. I would have given a
+great deal to have been her invisible observer in this sacred
+retirement. She must have been alone, for it was scarcely large enough
+to admit priest or attendant.
+
+D. was a room in which she breakfasted, during which time music was
+generally performed in B. From E. was a fine view of the Aqueduct of
+Marly, and E. was the way to the Garden, which she had fitted up in the
+English style. I have not time to enter into detail of these or her
+greenhouses. She was fond of Society and patronised the Arts. She
+allowed Artists to sit at leisure in her gallery to copy pictures, and
+conversed with them a great deal. She did an infinity of good to all
+within her reach and was beloved by all. Her death was very sudden; she
+had complained of a sore throat, but not sufficiently to confine her to
+her room. On a certain Wednesday or Thursday she was in her Park in high
+spirits, showing it to the Emperor Alexander and King of Prussia; being
+rather heated she drank some iced water; in the evening she was worse,
+on Sunday she was dead, sensible to the last; talked of death, seemed
+perfectly resigned--to use the words of a French lady, who told me many
+interesting particulars, "sa mort etait tres chretienne." They were
+busied in packing pictures and making catalogues, but I believe there is
+no fear of dismantling the house, as Eugene Beauharnais[57] and the
+children are to have it in conformity to her will.[58] I have seen few
+things since my departure from England which have interested me more
+than Malmaison, and I could almost fancy that her statue, which is that
+of a pensive female, with the chin resting on the hand, was her ghost
+ruminating over the extraordinary events which had recently occurred,
+and which she had quitted for ever. You will see Malmaison in my
+sketch-book, as well as the Castle of Vincennes, which is as picturesque
+and imposing as it is interesting, from the circumstances attending the
+Duke d'Enghien's[59] death. It seems this event was known at Paris the
+next day and spoken of with as much freedom as the despotic government
+of Paris would admit....
+
+I went yesterday to see the house of Peers in the Luxembourg. The Hall
+of sittings is not unlike that of the Corps Legislatif, but the
+decorations are more interesting, each niche being filled with Austrian
+standards and a few others. Under a gilt dome, supported by similar
+pillars, was the spot where Napoleon's throne was _not_. The remnants I
+saw lying in one of the Ante-rooms, all of which were ornamented with
+immense pictures of the principal battles, but these, out of compliment
+to the Emperor, &c., had been covered over with green baize, even the
+very standards had been removed during the stay of the Emperor of
+Austria in Paris. There is a sitting on Tuesday, and if I stand at the
+door I may see the Marshals alight, but my curiosity would not be
+satisfied, as no persons seem to know them; even the man who shewed us
+the hall, who actually keeps the door thro' which they enter and sees
+them all constantly, assured me he did not know one from the other. He
+did not even know whether Marmont[60] had one arm or two.
+
+
+LETTER VI.
+
+PARIS, _July 11th_.
+
+Thanks to our Landlord, and not to Sir Charles Stuart, we have just been
+elbowing the Marshals, as a serjeant of the National Guard offered to
+take us into the Thuilleries, and in we went with him in full uniform,
+on the very best day we could have selected since our arrival in Paris,
+as a corps of about 10 or 15,000 men were to be reviewed by the King "en
+masse" in the Place de Carousel, immediately in front of the
+Thuilleries.
+
+We were stationed in a room of which I had heard much and wished above
+all things to see--"la Salle des Marechaux," so called from the
+full-length portraits of 18 of these gentlemen with which it is hung;
+the upper part of the room is surrounded by a gallery decorated with
+pictures of the chief battles--Lodi, Passage of the Po, and one sea
+piece descriptive of the capture of our Frigate, the _Ambuscade_, by a
+smaller vessel. It is so good a picture that for the sake of the
+painting I never thought of lamenting the subject.
+
+After standing in this Hall for a few minutes in the midst of Generals
+without number in full uniform, I had the satisfaction of being almost
+knocked over by Marshal Jourdan,[61] a sharp, queer-looking fellow not
+at all stamped with the features of a hero. I eyed him well, and had
+scarcely satiated my curiosity when half a dozen more came by, walking
+about without peculiar honors or attention, and only to be distinguished
+from the Generals by a broad red ribbon, worn like those of our Knights
+of the Bath.
+
+I looked at each and all, but as few could tell their names I was at a
+loss to distinguish one from another; my head and eyes were in a perfect
+fidget, flying from Marshal to Marshal and from Picture to Picture.
+
+Of the Ducs de Treviso,[62] de Conegliano,[63] Serurier,[64] and
+Perignan[65] I had no doubt, as I saw them again several times, but I am
+not sure that I should know the others except from a recollection of
+their pictures.
+
+I will describe a few while their countenances are fresh upon my memory.
+
+Ney[66] is a fine, handsome man, but remarkably fair with light curling
+hair, and struck us very like Mrs. Parker, of Astle.
+
+Duc d'Istria[67] was reckoned by Robert Hibbert like me--that is to say,
+he had dark arched eyebrows, a fox-like sort of countenance, very dark,
+almost swarthy, and from his extreme bilious appearance, I should
+imagine might be troubled, like myself, with bad headaches.
+
+Davoust![68] I can scarcely recall his portrait without shuddering. If
+ever an evil spirit peeped thro' the visage of a human being, it was in
+Davoust. Every bad passion seemed to have set its mark on his face:
+nothing grand, warlike, or dignified. It was all dark, cruel, cunning,
+and malevolent. His body, too, seemed to partake of his character. I
+should fancy he was rather deformed. I never saw so good a Richard III.
+Let him pass and make way for one of a different description,
+Victor,[69] a fine, open, gentlemanly countenance, tho' not like a
+military hero. Marmont, a dark haired, sharp-looking man of military
+stature. Duc de Dantzig,[70] very ugly and squinting. Berthier,[71]
+remarkably quiet and intelligent. Murat,[72] an effeminate coxcomb with
+no characteristic but that of self-satisfaction. Moncey, a respectable
+veteran. Massena,[73] the most military of all, dark hair and
+countenance, fine figure. Soult,[74] a stern soldier, vulgar but
+energetic; his mouth and lower part of his face like Edridge,[75] though
+not so large a man.
+
+The King was to me a very secondary person; however, I was close to him
+as he tottered, like a good old well-meaning man, to Mass. On his return
+he appeared, as I described last Sunday, in the balcony facing the
+gardens for a few minutes and was loudly cheered, and then he came back
+to the Salle des Marechaux and sat down in a fine chair of Bonaparte's,
+covered all over with his Bees, in a Balcony facing the Place de
+Carousel, from whence he looked down on the 10,000 troops who were there
+assembled. The shouts here were not what they ought to have been.
+Comparatively few cried "God bless him!" and I much fear the number who
+thought it was still less. The Duc de Berri,[76] on horseback with
+Marshal Moncey on one side and Du Pont[77] on the other, reviewed the
+troops, who passed in companies and troops before them. As each company
+passed the officer held up his sword and cried "Vive le Roi!" and some
+of the soldiers did the same, but not more than one out of ten.
+
+I heard an anecdote of the Duc de Berri which is, I hope, true. A few
+days ago in reviewing some troops on the Champs Elysees an officer in
+passing chose to cry out, "Vive Napoleon!" upon which the Duc rode up
+to him, tore his Epaulette from his shoulder and order from his breast,
+threw them on the ground, and instantly dismissed him the service; this
+spirit pleased the soldiers, and they all shouted "Vive le Roi!"
+
+On Saturday we went to St. Cloud, Versailles, and the great and little
+Trianon. St. Cloud and the great Trianon were the especial residences of
+Buonaparte, and I looked at his bed and tables and chairs with some
+curiosity. I have not time to describe all these. I saw one public place
+yesterday which should be mentioned, a museum of models in every
+department of art and science, with all the machines, &c., connected
+with them. I would willingly conclude my observations on Paris with some
+remarks on its manners, principles, &c., and I would begin with Religion
+first if I could, but the fact is there appears to be none. If any does
+exist it must approximate to Mysticism and lie concealed in the recesses
+of the heart, for truly "the right hand knoweth not what the left hand
+doeth." But with all this non-appearance I should be cautious in passing
+too severe a censure. It must be remembered that the nation is military,
+that from the earliest years they "sing of arms," and Buonaparte carried
+this to such a degree that even children not much older than Owen[78]
+are to be seen in full Uniforms. He wished to incorporate the two terms
+of man and soldier. We laughed, you remember, at the account of the
+little King of Rome appearing in Uniform; in Paris this would not appear
+ridiculous. He had uniforms of all the favourite regiments horse and
+foot....
+
+[Illustration: PARISIAN AMUSEMENTS.
+
+_to face p. 141._]
+
+But yet there appears to be less vice than in England, I should rather
+say less organised vice; I have not heard of a single Robbery, public or
+private--I walk without fear of pickpockets; I should be inclined to say
+they seemed rather against themselves than against each other. Their
+principles may be more relaxed on some points than ours, but I doubt
+much whether a Frenchman would not be as much disgusted in England as an
+Englishman could possibly be in France; we call them a profligate race
+and condemn them in toto--something like Hudibras' John Bull--
+
+    "Compounds for sin he is inclined to
+     By damning those he has no mind to."
+
+Their public walks and Theatres are less offensive to decency than ours.
+Drunkenness is scarcely known; at first sight I should pronounce them an
+idle, indolent people; the streets are almost always full; the gardens,
+public walks, &c., swarm at all hours with saunterers. According to my
+ideas a Frenchman's life must be wretched, for he does not seem at all
+to enter into the charms of home--their houses are not calculated for
+it; they huddle together in nooks and corners, and the male part
+(judging from the multitudes I daily see) leave the women and children
+to get through the day as they can.
+
+Their coffee-houses are some of them quite extraordinary; most of them
+are ornamented with Mirrors in abundance, but some shine with more
+splendour. In the Palais Royal there is one called "Le Cafe de mille
+Colonnes," which merits some description. It consists of three or four
+rooms--the largest is almost one mass of plate-glass Mirrors, beautiful
+clocks at each end, and magnificent chandeliers; behind a raised Table
+of most superb structure, composed of slabs of marble and plate-glass,
+sat a lady dressed in the richest manner, Diamonds on head and hand,
+Lace, Muslin, &c. This is the Landlady; by her a little boy, about 4
+years old, stood in charge of a drawer from whence the small change was
+issued; this, if it happened to be copper, was delicately touched by the
+fair hand, which was immediately washed in a glass of water as if
+contaminated by the vulgar metal. She never spoke to the waiters, but
+rung a golden bell; her inkstands, flower jars--in short, every article
+on the table was of the same metal or of silver gilt. The tables for the
+company were fine marble slabs; the room was from the reflection of all
+the mirrors, as you may suppose, a perfect blaze of light, and yet
+altogether the place looked dirty, from the undress and shabby coats of
+the company. The French never dress for the evening unless going out to
+parties, and they always look dirty and unlike gentlemen; the former is
+not the case, in fact for they are constantly washing and bathing. An
+hour or two before I was in this extraordinary coffee-house I had
+traversed a spot as opposite to it as could well be--the Catacombs!--a
+range of vaults nearly half a mile long, about 80 feet under ground, in
+which are deposited all the bones from all the cemeteries in Paris. I
+suppose we were in company with some millions of skeletons, whose skulls
+are so arranged as to form regular patterns, and here and there was an
+altar made of bones fancifully piled up, on the sides an inscription in
+Latin, French, &c. Behind one wall the bodies of all who perished in the
+massacres in Paris were immured. They were brought in carts at night and
+thrown in, and there they rest, festering not in their shrouds but in
+clothes. Such a mass of corrupt flesh would soon have infested all the
+vaults, so they were bricked up.
+
+[Illustration: Catacombs Paris, July 8, 1814]
+
+I wish to recommend our hotel to any people you may hear of coming to
+Paris--Hotel des Estrangers, Rue du Hazard, kept by Mr. Meriel. Its
+situation is both quiet and convenient; it is really not five minutes'
+walk from the leading objects of Paris, and the people have been civil
+to us beyond measure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV
+
+ON THE TRACK OF NAPOLEON'S ARMY
+
+The Ex-Imperial Guard--Anecdotes of the last days at
+Fontainebleau--Invalided Cossacks--"Trahison"--Ruin and
+desolation--Roast dog--An English soldier--A Trappist veteran--Jack
+boots--Polytechnic cadets--A Russian officer--Cossacks, Kalmucks,
+and sparrows--Prussians and British lions--Rhine Castles--Rival
+inscriptions--Diligence atmosphere--Brisemaison--Sociable English.
+
+
+On leaving Paris, Edward Stanley planned to follow the traces of the
+desperate campaign which Napoleon had fought in the early months of that
+year (1814) against the Allies, and in which he so nearly succeeded in
+saving his crown for a time.
+
+As, however, the English travellers did not intend to return again to
+Paris, they reversed Napoleon's line of march and started to
+Fontainebleau by the road along which the Emperor rode back in hot haste
+on the night of March 30th, to take up the command of the force which
+should have been defending his capital, and where the sight of Mortier's
+flying troops convinced him that all hope was at an end.
+
+When they had visited Fontainebleau, where the final abdication had
+taken place on April 11th, they turned north-east to Melun and posted on
+through towns which had been the scenes of some of the most desperate
+fighting in that wonderful campaign, when Napoleon had seemed to be
+everywhere at once, dealing blows right and left against the three
+armies which, in the beginning of January, had advanced to threaten his
+Empire--Buelow in the north, Bluecher on the east, and Schwarzenberg on
+the south.
+
+They passed through Guignes and Meaux, by which Napoleon's army had
+marched after his victory over Bluecher at Vauchamps on February 14th, in
+the rapid movement to reinforce Marshal Victor, and to drive back
+Schwarzenberg from the Seine.
+
+Through Chateau Thierry, where on the 12th of February the Emperor and
+Marshal Mortier had pursued Russians and Prussians from street to street
+till they were driven over the Marne, and whence the French leader
+dashed after Bluecher to Vauchamps.
+
+Through Soissons, which the Russians under Winzengerode had bombarded on
+March 3rd, and forced to surrender, whereby Bluecher and Buelow were
+enabled to join hands.
+
+Through Laon, where Bluecher retreated after Craonne, and where he
+finally shattered Marmont's forces in a night attack.
+
+By Berry au Bac, where the Emperor crossed the Aisne on his way to fight
+Bluecher at Craonne, the scene on March 7th of one of the bloodiest
+battles of the war.
+
+On to Rheims where, after Marmont's disaster at Laon, Napoleon beat the
+Russians just before he was forced to rush southwards again to contend
+with Schwarzenberg and his Austrians.
+
+Finally they reached Chalons, which had been Napoleon's starting-point
+for the whole campaign, and where he had arrived in the closing days of
+January after having taken his last farewell of Marie Louise and of the
+King of Rome.
+
+After Chalons they turned eastwards, following the line of fortresses
+for which Napoleon had staked and lost his crown, and reached the Rhine
+by Verdun, Metz, and Mayence; thence to Aix-la-Chapelle, Lille, and
+Brussels, which had by the Treaty of Paris, in May, been ceded with the
+whole of Belgium to the Netherlands.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Wife._
+
+MELUN, _July 14th_.
+
+We quitted our Hotel yesterday morning at six for Fontainebleau.
+
+There is nothing particularly interesting about the road, which is
+almost an incessant avenue. About half-way we passed a fine Chateau of
+Marshal Jourdan's.
+
+The forest of Fontainebleau commences about four miles from the town and
+extends some nine or ten miles in all directions. At first I was in
+hopes of being gratified with the sight of fine woods, but, with the
+exception of a few patches of good oaks, the remainder is little better
+than underwood and dwarflings.
+
+We went into the heart of the forest to see an old Hermitage now
+inhabited by a keeper and his family. They had been visited by Cossacks,
+but had received no injury whatever; on the contrary the poor woman
+related with all the eloquence of Truth and the French animation that
+from their own soldiers they had suffered all that cruelty and rapacity
+could devise--indeed, the house and gardens bore evidence to the
+facts--window shutters pierced with bullets, broken doors, furniture
+gone, and above 800 francs' worth of honey destroyed out of pure
+wantonness--in short the poor people seemed quite ruined. I received a
+similar account in the town. Fontainebleau is a dull, melancholy-looking
+place, with a very extensive ugly palace--interesting only from the late
+events. Scarcely a soul appeared about; we crossed the large court in
+which Buonaparte took his last farewell and embraced the Imperial
+Eagles, called by some loyal French "The vile Cuckoos." Our hostess was,
+I presume, a staunch imperialist, who thought she could not shew her
+zeal for the Emperor in a stronger manner than by imposing on
+Englishmen. She began by asking 16s. for a plate of 8 little wretched
+mutton chops; we resented the imposition, although the sudden appearance
+of 4 or 5 officers of the imperial guard almost rendered it doubtful
+whether we ought to act too warmly on the defensive, as they seemed to
+patronise our hostess; however, we refused to pay and retired unimposed
+upon.
+
+The imperial guard here are supposed to be particularly attached to the
+Emperor, and of course averse to Englishmen, but I was agreeably
+surprised to find three out of the four really something like gentlemen
+in their manners; we entered into conversation, which I managed as
+dexterously as I could, manoeuvering between the evil of sacrificing my
+own opinions on one side, and of giving them offence on the other; it
+was a nice point, as I perceived a word beyond the line of demarcation
+would have inflamed them in a trice. One happened to differ with another
+on a political point, which produced a loud and rapid stamping with the
+feet, accompanied by a course of pirouets on the heel with the velocity
+of a dervish, which fully proved what might be effected on their tempers
+had I been disposed to try the experiment. They called themselves the
+Ex-Imperial Guard. On retiring I shook hands with them, and with as low
+a bow as the little King of Rome, said "Messieurs les Gardes d'Honneur,
+Je vous salue." ...
+
+
+LETTER VII.
+
+_Monday, July 19th._
+
+...The history of Buonaparte immediately preceding, and subsequent to
+the surrender of Paris, was never actually known--I will give it you.
+
+The capitulation took place on the 30th (March). In the evening of that
+day he arrived at Fontainebleau without his army. Rumours of fighting
+near Paris had reached him. He almost immediately set off with Berthier
+in his carriage for Paris, and actually arrived at Villejuif, only 6
+miles from the capital; when he heard the result he turned about and
+appeared again at Fontainebleau at 9 the next morning. When he alighted,
+the person who handed him out, a sort of head-porter of the Palace, who
+was our guide, told me he looked "triste, bien triste"; he spoke to
+nobody, went upstairs as fast as he could, and then called for his plans
+and maps; his occupation during the whole time he staid consisted in
+writing and looking over papers, but to what this writing and these
+papers related the world may feel but will never know; his spirits were
+by no means broken down; in a day or two he was pretty much as usual,
+and it is said he signed the Abdication without the least apparent
+emotion. We heard he was mad, but I can assure you from undoubted
+authority that he was perfectly well in mind and body the whole time,
+and, notwithstanding his excessive fatigues, as corpulent as ever;
+indeed, said our guide, "War seems to agree with him better than with
+any man I ever knew." Buonaparte laid out immense sums in furnishing and
+beautifying the Palais here. I got into his library, the snuggest room
+you ever saw, immediately below a little study in which he always sat
+and settled his affairs; his arm-chair was a very comfortable, honest,
+plain arm-chair, but I looked in vain for all the gashes and notches
+which it was said he was wont to inflict upon it. I could not perceive
+a scratch, he was too busily employed in that said chair in forming
+plans for cutting up Europe; within three yards of his table was a
+little door, or rather trap door, by which you descended down the oddest
+spiral staircase you ever beheld into the Library, which was low and
+small; the books were few of them new, almost all standard works upon
+history--at least I am sure 4 out of 5 were historical--all of his own
+selection, and each stamped, as in fact was everything else from high to
+low, far and wide, with his N., or his Bees or his Eagle--all of which
+Louis XVIII is as busily employed in effacing, which alone will give him
+ample employment: but to return to the books. Amongst the rest I
+found--Shakespeare ... and a whole range of Ecclesiastical History,
+which, if ever read, might account in some degree for his shutting up
+the Pope as the existing representative of the animals who have
+occasioned half the feuds and divisions therein recorded. There was a
+Chapel, which he regularly attended on Sundays and Saints' days. His
+State bed was a sort of State business, very uncomfortable, consisting
+of 5 or 6 mattresses under a royal canopy with 2 Satin Pillows at each
+end.
+
+During his residence he never stirred beyond the gates, though I could
+not discover that he was at all under restraint, or in any way looked
+upon as a prisoner; we were told in England (what are we not told
+there?) that he feared the people, who would have torn him in pieces;
+this is an idle story. I rather suspect the people liked him too well,
+besides which his Guards were there, and by them he is idolised. He
+generally took exercise in a long and beautiful Gallery, called the
+Gallery of Francis I., on both sides of which were busts of his great
+Generals on panels ornamented with the N., and some name above alluding
+to a victory; thus above one N. was _Nazareth_, which puzzled me at
+first, but I afterwards heard he had cut up some Turks there; besides
+the Gallery, he walked every day up and down a Terrace; he dined every
+day in a miserable (I speak comparatively) little passage room without
+any shew of state; he was affable to his attendants and is liked by
+them. His abdication room is not one of the state apartments--it is a
+shabby ante-room; I could almost fancy that in performing this
+humiliating deed he had retired as far as possible from the Halls and
+Saloons which were decorated by his hand, and had witnessed his Imperial
+magnificence. Most of the Marshals were in the room, and it would have
+been a tour indeed to have glided through the hearts of each when such
+an extraordinary performance was transacting. It was in the great Court
+before the Palace that he took his leave, not above 1,500 troops were
+present. At such a moment to have heard such a speech, delivered with
+the dignity and stage effect Buonaparte well knew how to give, must have
+produced a strong effect--how great (how sad I had almost said) the
+contrast!
+
+The stones were overgrown with grass; nobody appeared, no voice was
+heard except the clacking of half a dozen old women who were weeding on
+their knees, and all the windows were closed. The dreary, deserted
+present compared with the magnificent past excited nearly the same
+feelings as if I had been looking on Tadmor in the wilderness. After
+passing the Imperial prison we were ushered into the apartments of the
+Imperial prisoners, the poor Pope and his 16 Cardinals. I had quite
+forgotten the place of their confinement, and was a little surprised
+when the man said, "Here, Sir, dwelt for 19 months the holy Conclave of
+St. Peter." He must have led a miserable life, for though he was allowed
+two carriages, with 6 and 8 horses to each, he neither stirred out
+himself nor allowed any of the Cardinals to so do, saying he did not
+think it right for prisoners. Buonaparte saw him in January, I think the
+man said, for the last time. So much for Fontainebleau. Few have
+followed their master to Elba. Roustan the Mameluke and Constant his
+Valet were certainly very ungrateful; one of them--I forget which--to
+whom Buonaparte had given 25,000 fr. (about L1,200) the day before he
+left Fontainebleau, applied to the Duc de Berri for admission into his
+service; in reply the Duc told him his gratitude ought to have carried
+him to Elba, but though it had not, if he (the Duke) ever heard that
+Buonaparte wished to have him there, he would bind him hand and foot and
+send him immediately. None of the Royal allies have been to
+Fontainebleau at the time or since, except the King of Prussia, who
+came incog. a few days ago. This the guide said he had heard since; he
+had, indeed, seen three persons walking about, but he had not shewn them
+the Palace nor spoken to them. That it was the King of Prussia was
+confirmed by a curious little memorandum I found wafered over a high
+glass on the top of the room in which we dined, and which caught my eye
+immediately; I shewed it to the people of the house, who said they had
+not observed it before, but remembered three gentlemen dining there on
+that day. "Sa Majeste le Roi de Prusse accompagne du Prince Guillaume
+son fils a dine en cette appartement avec son premier Chambellan Mr.
+Baron D'Ambolle, le 8 Juillet, 1814." ... This is the way the King of
+Prussia always went about in Paris, nobody knew him or saw him....
+
+From Fontainebleau we went to Melun and kept proceeding through Guignes
+to Meaux. At Guignes we began to hear of the effects of war: 15,000
+Russians had been bivouacked above the town for a week. Buonaparte
+advanced with his troops, on which they retired, but troops do not walk
+up and down the earth like lambs, but rather like roaring lions, seeking
+whom they may devour; however, here let us insert once for all the
+account I have invariably received from sufferers throughout the whole
+Theatre of war--that the conduct of the Russians and French was widely
+different; the former generally behaving as well as could possibly be
+expected, and pillaging only from necessity; the latter seem to have
+made havoc and devastation their delight. They might perhaps act on
+principle, conceiving that it was better for the treasure and good
+things of the land to fall into their hands than the enemy's.
+
+At a little shabby inn at Guignes where we breakfasted Buonaparte had
+slept. The people described him dressed "comme un perruquier" in a grey
+great-coat; he clattered into the house, bustled about, went to his room
+early, and appeared again at 9 the next morning, but "J'en reponds bien"
+that he was not sleeping all that time. If from Guignes we traversed a
+country where we heard of war, at Meaux we began to see the
+effects--before a picturesque gateway we descended to cross the bridge
+over a stone arch which had been blown up. Shot-holes marked the wall,
+and within the houses were well bespattered with musket balls. It was
+the first visible field of battle we had crossed, and to heighten the
+interest, while we were looking about and asking particulars of the
+people, up came bands of Russian troops of all descriptions, Cossacks
+included, 1,500 having just entered the town invalided from Paris on
+their return home. To be sure, a more filthy set I never beheld. The
+country is pretty well stocked with Cossack horses; they were purchased
+at a very cheap rate--from 25 shillings to 50 a piece. We have had
+several of them in our carriage, and find them far more active and rapid
+than the French, though smaller and more miserable in appearance. My
+conversation with the Russians (for I made it a point to speak to
+everybody) was rather laconic, and generally ran thus, "Vous Russe, moi
+Inglis"--the answer, "You Inglis, moi Russe, we brothers"--and then I
+generally got a tap on the shoulder and a broad grin of approbation
+which terminated the conference.
+
+You know the chief event which occurred at Meaux was the explosion of
+the powder magazines by the French on their retreat, for which they were
+most severely, and, I think, unjustly, censured in our
+despatches--indeed, after seeing and hearing with my own eyes and ears,
+I feel less than ever inclined to put implicit faith in these public
+documents. The Magazine was in a large house where wines had been stored
+in the cellar--about half a mile to the west of the town upon a hill.
+About 3 o'clock in the morning the explosion took place with an
+"_ebranlement_" which shook the town to its very foundation. In an
+instant every pane of glass was shattered to atoms, but the cathedral
+windows, which were composed of small squares in lead, escaped tolerably
+well, only here and there some patches being forced out. The tiles also
+partook of the general crash. Many, of course, were broken by the shower
+of shot, stones, &c., which fell, but the actual concussion destroyed
+the greater part. Numbers of houses were remaining in their dilapidated
+state, and presented a curious scene. We went to see the spot where the
+house stood, for the house itself, like the temple of Loretto,
+disappeared altogether. Some others near it were on their last
+legs--top, beams, doors, all blown away. Even the trees in a garden were
+in part thrown down, and the larger ones much excoriated. Only one
+person was killed on the spot, supposed to have been a marauder who was
+pillaging near the place. Another person about half a mile off, driving
+away his furniture to a place of safety, was wounded, and died soon
+afterwards.
+
+From Meaux, I may say almost all the way to Chalons, a distance of above
+150 miles, the country bore lamentable marks of the scourge with which
+it has been afflicted. I will allow you--I would allow myself perhaps,
+when I look back to the circumstances connected with the war--to wish
+that all the country, Paris included, had been sacked and pillaged as a
+just punishment, or rather as the sole mode of convincing these
+infatuated people that they are the conquered and not the Conqueror of
+the Allies. Wherever I go, whatever field of battle I see--be it Craon,
+Laon, Soissons, or elsewhere--victory is never accorded to the Russians.
+"Oh non, les Russes etaient toujours vaincus." One fellow who had been
+one of Buonaparte's guides at Craon had the impudence to assure me that
+the moment he appeared the Allies ran away. "Aye, but," said I, "how
+came the French to retreat and leave them alone?" "Oh, because just then
+the _trahison_ which had been all arranged 19 months before began to
+appear."
+
+Again, at Laon I was assured that the French drove all before them, and
+gained the heights. "Then," said I, "why did not they stay there?" "Oh,
+then reappeared '_la petite trahison_,'" and so they go on, and well do
+they deserve, and heartily do I wish, to have their pride and impudence
+lowered. But when I see what war is, when I see the devastation this
+comet bears in its sweeping tail, its dreadful impartiality involving
+alike the innocent and the guilty, I should be very sorry if it depended
+on me to pronounce sentence, or cry "havoc and let loose." ...
+
+On the 14th we slept at Chateau Thierry--such an Inn, and such insolent
+pigs of people! Spain was scarcely worse ... added to the filthiness of
+the place, a diligence happened at the same time to pour forth its
+contents in the shape of a crew of the most vulgar, dirty French
+officers I ever saw. It was well we had no communication with them, for
+by the conversation I overheard in the next room there would have been
+little mutual satisfaction: "Oh! voici un regiment (alluding to us 5) de
+ces Anglois dans la maison! ou vont-ils les Coquins?" "Moi je ne sais
+pas, les vilains!" Luckily they all tumbled upstairs to bed very soon,
+each with a cigar smoking and puffing from beneath the penthouse of
+their huge moustachios, during their ascent, by the by, keeping the
+Landlady in hot water lest they should break into her best bedroom, of
+which she carefully kept the key, telling me at the same time she was
+afraid of their insisting upon having clean sheets. By their appearance,
+however, I did not conceive her to be in much danger of so unfair a
+demand. We had the clean sheets, damp enough, but no matter--she
+remembered them in the Bill most handsomely, and when I remonstrated
+against some of her charges, for I must observe that we dined in a
+wretched hole with our postillions, she checked me by saying, "Comment,
+Monsieur, c'est trop! Cela ne se peut pas; comme tout ici est si
+charmant." ... There was no reply to be made to such an appeal, so I
+bowed, paid, and retired. Then the bridge was blown up, the streets
+speckled with bullets. Near the bridge, which had been smartly
+contested, the houses were actually riddled, yet here the Emperor stood
+exposed as quiet and unconcerned amidst the balls as if (to use their
+own expression) he had been "chez lui."
+
+As we advanced the marks of war became stronger and stronger, every
+village wore a rueful aspect, and every individual told a tale more and
+more harrowing to the feelings. The Postmasters seem to have been the
+greatest sufferers, as their situation demanded a large supply of corn,
+horses and forage, all of which, even to the chickens, were carried off.
+One poor woman, wife of a postmaster, a very well-behaved,
+gentlewoman-like sort of person, told me that when 80,000 Russians came
+to their town she escaped into the woods (you will remember the snow was
+then deep on the ground and the cold excessive) where for two days she
+and her family had nothing to eat. The Cossacks then found her, but did
+no harm, only asking for food. I mention her case not as singular, for
+it was the lot of thousands, but merely to shew what people must expect
+when Enemies approach.
+
+Soissons was the next place, and compared with the scene of desolation
+there presented all that we had hitherto seen was trifling.
+
+I little thought last February that in July I should witness such
+superlatively interesting scenes. With the exception of Elba alone, ours
+has been the very best tour that could have been taken, and exactly at
+the right time, for I apprehend that a month ago we could not have
+passed the country....
+
+
+LETTER VIII.
+
+MAYENCE, _July 22nd_.
+
+Our speed outstrips my pen. I am to retrace our steps to Soissons,
+whereas here we are upon the banks of the Rhine, which is hurrying
+majestically by to terminate its course amongst the dykes of Holland.
+
+The nearer we came to Soissons[79] the nearer we perceived we were to
+the field of some terrible contest, and the suburbs, where the thickest
+of the fight took place, presented a frightful picture of war, not a
+house entire. It seems they were unroofed for the convenience of the
+attacking party, or set on fire, an operation which took up a very short
+space of time, thanks to the energetic labours of about 50 or 60,000
+men. Indeed, fire and sword had done their utmost--burnt beams,
+battered doors, not a vestige of furniture or window frames. I cannot
+give you a better idea of the quantity of shot, and consequent number of
+beings who must have perished, than by assuring you that on one front of
+a house about the extent of our home, and which was not more favoured
+than its neighbours, I counted between 2 and 300 bullet marks. I was
+leaning against a bit of broken wall in a garden, which appeared to be
+the doorway to a sort of cellar, taking a sketch, when the gardener came
+up and gave me some particulars of the fight. He pointed to this cave or
+cellar as the place of shelter in which he and 44 others had been
+concealed, every moment dreading a discovery which, whether by friend or
+foe, they looked upon as equally fatal. Fortunately the foe were the
+discoverers. Upon the termination of the battle, which had been
+favourable to the Allies, in came a parcel of Russians upon the
+trembling peasants. Conceiving it to be a hiding-place for French
+soldiers, they rushed upon them, but finding none, satisfied themselves
+with asking what business they had there, and turning them out to find
+their way through blood and slaughter to some more secure place of
+shelter. A small mill pool had been so completely choked with dead that
+they were obliged to let off the water and clean it out. With Sir
+Charles Stuart's dispatches cut out of the Macclesfield Paper we
+ascended the Cathedral, and from thence, as upon a map, traced out the
+operations of both armies. Soissons is half surrounded by the Aisne,
+and stands on a fine plain, upon which the Russians displayed.
+Buonaparte, in one of his Bulletins, abuses a governor who allowed the
+Allies to take possession of the town when he was in pursuit, thus
+giving them a passage over the river, adding that had that governor done
+his duty the Russians might have been cut off. In England this was all
+voted "leather and prunello" and a mere vapouring opinion of the
+Emperor's, but as far as I could observe he was perfectly right, and had
+the governor been acting under my orders I question much whether I
+should not have hanged him. In looking about we were shewn a sort of
+town hall, with windows ornamented with the most beautiful painted glass
+you ever saw--nice little figures, trophies, landscapes, &c.--but a
+party of Russians had unfortunately been lodged there, and the glass was
+almost all smashed. I procured a specimen, but alas! portmanteaus are
+not the best packing-cases for glass, and in my possession it fared
+little better than with the Cossacks. However, if it is pulverised, I
+will bring it home as a Souvenir....
+
+[Illustration: HOUSES AND TOWER, LAON, 1814.]
+
+_To face p. 161._
+
+From Soissons to Laon the country is uninteresting except from the late
+events. With the exception of the first view of the plain and town of
+Laon, we passed village after village in the same state of ruin and
+dilapidation. Chavignon, about 4 miles from Laon, seemed, however, to
+have been more particularly the object of vengeance; it was throughout
+nearly a repetition of the suburbs of Soissons. Laon rises like a sort
+of Gibraltar from a rich and beautiful plain covered with little woods,
+vineyards, villages, and cornfields; the summit is crowned with an old
+castle, the town with its Cathedral towers and a parcel of windmills.
+Buonaparte had been extremely anxious to dislodge the allies; for two
+days made a furious and almost incessant attack, which was fortunately
+unsuccessful owing, to speak in French terms, to _la petite trahison_,
+in plain English, the bravery of the Russians, who not only withstood
+the repeated shocks, but pursued the enemy all the way to Soissons,
+every little copse and wood becoming a scene of contest, and the whole
+plain was strewed with dead. Since quitting Rouen I do not recollect any
+town at all to be compared with Laon either in point of scenery without
+or picturesque beauty within; it is one of the most curious old places I
+ever saw--Round Towers, Gateways, &c. We took up our quarters at an
+odd-looking Inn, with the nicest people we had met with for some time.
+They spoke with horror of the miseries they had undergone in this Inn,
+not much larger than Cutts' at Wilmslow; they had daily to feed and
+accommodate for upwards of two months 150 Russians of all descriptions,
+and this at a moment when provisions were, of course, extremely dear.
+The landlord's daughter with two friends were imprisoned, actually
+afraid of putting their noses beyond the keyhole; luckily they could
+make artificial flowers, and two of them drew remarkably well; a
+favourite dog of the landlord's was their companion. A Cossack had one
+day taken him by the tail with the firm intent to put him on the kitchen
+fire, the bare recollection of which kindled all our host's anger, and
+he declared that had his poor dog been roasted, though he well knew the
+consequence, he should have shot the Cossack; fortunately the dog
+escaped, but as his Master assured me, never smelt or heard a Cossack's
+name mentioned afterwards without popping his tail between his legs and
+making off with the utmost speed. Both at this place and at Soissons we
+met with people with whom Davenport[80] had lodged, and in both places
+he has established a character which reflects the highest credit on his
+activity, humanity, and generosity. He was no idle spectator; he went
+about endeavouring by every means in his power to alleviate the miseries
+of war by protecting persons and property, and by administering to the
+wants of the sick and wounded of every description....
+
+On the 16th we quitted Laon for Berry au Bac, passing through Corbeny
+and close to the heights of Craon, upon which a battle was fought which
+might be considered as the coup de grace to the French. The Emperor
+commanded in person; he talked nearly half an hour with the Postmaster,
+whom he summoned before him; if the man spoke truth, his conversation
+appears to have been rather childish. After asking many questions about
+the roads and country, he vented a torrent of abuse against the
+Russians, upon whom he assured the Postmaster it was his intention to
+inflict summary punishment, and, indeed, according to the French
+translation of the business, he actually did so, tho' I never could find
+out that any other of the Imperial troops remained to enjoy the victory
+on these said heights, saving and except the wounded and killed; one
+spot was pointed out where in one grave were deposited the remains of
+3,000....
+
+In this village of Corbeny there had been sad devastation; but it was at
+Berry au Bac that we were to see the superlative degree of misery. This
+unfortunate little town had been captured 7 times--4 times by the
+Russians, 3 times by the French; their bridge, a beautiful work of 3
+arches, only completed in December, was blown up March 19. The houses
+fared no better; whole streets were annihilated--chiefly for the sake of
+burning the beams for fire-wood by the Russians--but the walls were in
+great measure knocked over by the French, for what other purpose than
+wanton cruelty I could not learn. Pillage and violence of every
+description had been excessive. Some of the inhabitants died of pure
+fright; a gentleman-like-looking man assured me his own father was of
+the number. Even here the Cossacks were complimented for their
+comparative good behaviour, while the French and the Emperor were justly
+execrated--"Plait a Dieu" said a poor man who stood moaning over the
+ruins of his cottage, "Plait a Dieu, qu'il soit mort, et qu'on
+n'entendit plus de Napoleon";--the old woman, his wife, told me they
+only feared the Cossacks when they were drunk. An old Cossack had taken
+up his quarters with them--"Ah c'etait un bon Viellard; un bon Papa."
+
+[Illustration: BERRY AU BAC.
+
+_To face p. 164._]
+
+One day a party of 20 or 30 drunken Cossacks broke into their yard, and
+insisted on entering the house; the old woman said she had nothing to
+fear and would have opened the door, but the Cossack seized her, saying,
+"There is but one way to save you," and taking her by the arm, shewed
+her to his companions as his prize and threatened the man who should
+touch his property with instant death. They did not dispute the matter
+with him and retired quietly. When they were out of sight he told her to
+follow him, and led her 3 or 4 miles up the country amongst the woods
+and left her in a place of safety, taking a kind leave of her and
+saying, "I have done all I could for you, now farewell"--and she saw no
+more of him....
+
+We arrived at Rheims on the evening of the 16th, a large, fine, regular,
+dull-looking city in a dull-looking plain. The Cathedral is grand
+enough, but I felt no wish to remain till the Coronation. Hitherto we
+had seen inanimate vestiges of war, at Rheims we were to see the living
+effects. By accident we passed the door of a large Church or Hall which
+had been converted into an Hospital for 400 Russian prisoners, and on
+benches near the porch were seated some convalescent patients without
+arms or legs. We stopped to speak to them as well as we could, and upon
+saying we were Englanders, one of the Russians with evident rapture and
+unfeigned delight made signs that there was a British soldier amongst
+their number, and immediately 4 or 5 of them ran to bring him out; and
+such a poor object did appear dragged along, his legs withered away and
+emaciated to the last degree. He had been wounded at St. Jean de Luz in
+the thigh, and subsequently afflicted with a fever which had thus
+deprived him of the use of his limbs. We gave something to those who
+were nearest, and on my asking if any Prussian was there to whom I could
+speak in French, as I wished to express our desire but inability to
+relieve all, I was conducted through the wards to a miserable being who
+was seated with his head suspended in a sling from the top of the bed,
+both legs dreadfully shattered, and unable to support himself upright
+through extreme weakness.
+
+During the whole of supper-time the Hospital and this Englishman hung
+heavy on my mind; I felt as if I had not done enough, and that I might
+be of use in writing to his friends. Accordingly about 10 o'clock I went
+again to the Gate and begged admittance. On mentioning my wish to see
+the Englishman, I was immediately allowed to enter, and conducted up the
+wards. On each side were small beds, clean, and in admirable order;
+there was nothing to interrupt the silence but our own echoing footsteps
+and the groans of the poor patients all round. The Nurses were in the
+costume of Nuns, and from religious principles undertake the care of
+the sick--there was something very awful in marching up the aisles with
+these conductors at this time. My poor countryman was asleep when I came
+to his bedside. I took down memorandums of his case, and promised to
+write to his friends, and left him money to assist him on his road home,
+should he (of which I much doubt) ever recover.
+
+I staid with him some time; in the course of the conversation some
+wounded Prussians came up on their crutches, and it was quite gratifying
+to see their kindness and goodwill to this poor fellow who, sole of his
+nation and kindred, was wasting away amongst strangers. They patted him
+on his head, called him their _cher_ and _bon garcon_, lifted him up
+that he might see and hear better, and he assured me that by them and by
+all the attendants he was treated with the utmost kindness and
+attention. Amongst 400 wounded soldiers whose deep groans and ghastly
+countenances announced that many were almost passing the barrier which
+separates the mortal from the immortal, with their nurses by my side
+holding their glimmering tapers, each arrayed in the order of their
+religion and wearing the Cross as the badge of their profession, was a
+situation in which I had never before been placed. In offering
+ministerial advice, and, I trust, affording religious consolation under
+circumstances so solemn and peculiar, you may conceive that I did speak
+with all the earnestness and fervour in my power. I told the nurses who
+and what I was, and so far from entertaining any illiberal ideas as to
+the propriety of my interfering in what might be called their clerical
+department, they expressed the greatest pleasure and seemed to rejoice
+that their patient was visited by one of his own ministers.... Thus
+ended my visit to the Hospital at Rheims, which I never can forget.
+
+We travelled the next day to Verdun, bidding adieu to the Hibberts at
+Chalons.
+
+You will ask if we have seen any vestiges of war on the soil such as
+bodies. We have met with a tolerable quantity of dead horses by the
+road-side and in ditches, but only one human being, half scratched up by
+a dog, has appeared; a few rags of uniform dangling upon the skeleton
+bones called our attention to it.
+
+Verdun is a very comfortable town of considerable extent decently
+fortified; the number of English there was from 1,000 to 1,100; they
+were all sent off in a hurry. At 5 in the evening they received the
+order, at 7 the next morning the greater part were off, and 24 hours
+afterward the Allies hovered round the town. The French boast, and
+nobody can contradict the assertion, that the Allies were never able to
+take their fortresses; certainly not; for they never attempted. Instead
+of losing their time in besieging, they left a few to mark the place and
+went on.... The English prisoners seem to have enjoyed every comfort
+they could expect--in fact, their imprisonment was in great measure
+nominal; with little difficulty they were allowed to go as far as they
+wished; they were noticed by the inhabitants, and many have married and
+settled in France. I think the prisoners in England have not been so
+well off, and complain with reason.
+
+[Illustration: VERDUN BRIDGE.
+
+_To face p. 168._]
+
+We went to the English church and Theatre, and saw as much as we could
+for half a day. For the honor of my country I lament to say that many
+here contracted heavy debts which are not likely to be paid. Some
+instances were mentioned, the truth of which were proved by letters I
+read from the parties themselves, little creditable to our national
+character, and by persons, too, who ought to have known better. On the
+18th we left Verdun for Metz. I had always winked at and generally
+encouraged the addition of another passenger behind our Cabriolet. The
+road was quite crowded with straggling soldiers going or returning to
+their several homes or regiments. We rarely passed in a day less than 2
+or 300, and really sometimes in situations so very favorable to robbing
+that I am surprised we were never attacked, their appearance being
+generally stamped with a character perfectly congenial to the Banditti
+Trade--dark, whiskered, sunburnt visages, with ragged uniform and naked
+feet. Sometimes we were more fortunate than at others; for instance,
+stragglers from the Hamburg garrison, whose wan faces bore testimony to
+the fact they related of having lived for the last 4 or 5 months on
+horseflesh; but our charitable assistance was to be this day most
+abundantly rewarded. We overtook a poor fellow, more wretched than most
+we had seen, toiling away with his bivouacking cloak tied round him. He,
+too, solicited, and misunderstanding my answer, said in the most
+pitiable but submissive tone, "Alors, Monsieur ne permettra pas que je
+monte?" "Tout au contraire," said I, "Montez tout de suite." After
+proceeding a little way I thought I might as well see who we had got
+behind us, and guess my astonishment when I received the answer. Who do
+you imagine, of all the people in the world, Buonaparte had raked forth
+to secure the Imperial Diadem upon his brow, to fight his battles, and
+deal in blood, but--A monk of La Trappe. For three years had he resided
+in Silence and solitude in this most severe society when Buonaparte
+suppressed it, and insisted that all the Noviciate Monks in No. 36
+should sally forth and henceforth wield both their swords and their
+tongues; with lingering steps and slow our poor companion went. In the
+battle of Lutzen[81] he fought and conquered. In Leipsic[82] he fought
+and fell--the _wind_ of a shot tore his eye out and struck him down, and
+the shot killed his next neighbour upon the spot; he was taken prisoner
+by the Swedes, and was now returning from Stockholm to his brethren near
+Fribourg. The simplicity with which he told his tale bore ample
+testimony to the Truth, but in addition he shewed me his Rosary and
+credentials. After having talked over the battle I changed the subject,
+and determined to see if he could wield the sword of controversy as
+well as of war; and accordingly telling him who I was, asked his opinion
+of the Protestant Faith and the chief points of difference between us.
+He hesitated a little at first: "Attendez, Monsieur, il faut que je
+pense un peu." In about a minute he tapped at the carriage. "Eh bien,
+Monsieur, j'ai pense," and then entered upon the subject, which he
+discussed with much good sense and ability, sometimes in Latin,
+sometimes in French; and though he supported his argument well and
+manfully, he displayed a liberality of sentiment and a spirit of true
+Christianity which quite attached me to him. I asked him his opinion of
+the _salvability_ of protestants and infallibility of Catholics.
+"Ecoutez moi," was his reply. "Je pense que ceux qui savent que la
+Religion Catholique est la vraie Religion et ne la pratiquent pas,
+seront damnes, mais pour ceux qui ne pensent pas comme nous. Oh non,
+Senor, ne le croyez pas. Oh mon Dieu! non, non! jamais, jamais!" "Are
+you _quite sure_ a minister ought not to marry? You will recollect St.
+Peter was a married man." "Oh que, oui, c'est vrai, mais le moment qu'il
+suivit notre Seigneur on n'entend plus de sa femme." From this we
+proceeded to various other topics, amongst others to the propriety of
+renouncing a religion in which we conceived there were erroneous
+opinions. "Senor, ecoutez," said he, "can that religion be good which
+springs from a bad principle? Les Anglois etaient une fois des bons
+Catholiques; le Divorce d'un Roi capricieux fut la cause de leur
+changement. Ah, cela n'etait pas bon." ...
+
+When we were on the point of parting he turned to me: "Senor, j'espere
+que je ne vous ai pas fache, si je me suis exprime trop fortement devant
+vous qui m'avez tant rendu service, il faut me pardonner, je suis pauvre
+et malheureux, mais je pensois que c'etait mon devoir."
+
+It was as lucky a meeting for him as for me. I assisted him with money
+to expedite him homewards, and he entertained and interested me all the
+way to Metz, when, much against my will, we parted, for had he been
+going to Pekin I should have accommodated him with a seat....
+
+
+LETTER IX.
+
+COLOGNE, _July 25th_.
+
+If you could see what I now see, or form any ideas adequate to the
+scenery around me, you would indeed prize a letter which, though
+commenced at 4 in the morning, cannot be valued at a less price than 2
+or 3 old Castles; but it is not yet the moment to sing the praises of
+the Rhine. I shall only say that we slept at Bacharach, and that I am
+now looking at 4 old Castles whenever I raise my eyes from the paper,
+and that a fine old Abbey is only eclipsed by the gable end of a Church,
+equally curious, which is almost thrusting itself into the window as if
+to look at the strangers.
+
+Little enlivened our day after parting with our Monk, unless I should
+except a good scene from a picture which happened at one of the Post
+houses. No Postillions were at home, so the Landlord himself was to
+drive--an enormous man, rather infirm, with a night-cap on his head,
+from whence emerged a long pigtail. It was necessary he should be put
+into his Jack boots. By Jack boots you are to understand two large
+things as big as portmanteaus, always reminding me of boots fit for the
+leg which appears in the Castle of Otranto. Accordingly no less than 4
+or 5 persons actually lifted the Landlord into his boots, an operation
+which, from the weight and infirmities of the one and the extreme
+clumsiness of the others, took up nearly a quarter of an hour; and, of
+course, when fairly deposited in them he was unable to move, and further
+help was necessary to place him on the saddle.... The first view of
+Metz, after traversing an uninteresting country, is remarkably fine. It
+stands in a fine rich plain, near though beyond the reach of an
+eminence--for it does not deserve the name of a mountain--the sides of
+which are covered with woods, villages, and vineyards. There is
+something very grand in entering a fortified Town--the clattering of
+drawbridges, appearance of moats, guns, sentinels, and all the other
+etceteras of war. Our passports were demanded for the first time. At
+length we were allowed to pass, and found ourselves in a large, clean
+town, chiefly remarkable for its Cathedral, the painted window of which
+was equal to any I ever saw. The first thing we invariably do in these
+towns is to ascend the highest spire, from whence the general plan and
+position are at once explained. You need not be alarmed. There is no
+fever at present at Metz, or on the Rhine; but there has been. From the
+close of 1813 and until the last two months not less than 69,000 sick or
+wounded have been in the hospitals of Metz--a large Church contained
+about 3,000 at a time, the remainder were scattered about wherever they
+could find room, and many breathed their last in the streets. Of course,
+such a concourse of dead and dying infested the air to a certain degree,
+and a fever was the result. However, not above 2 or 300 inhabitants
+suffered. Of the sick troops from 12 to 1,500 per day were buried
+without the town, and quicklime thrown in. We supped with three or four
+Frenchmen and a Genoese officer, one of Buonaparte's Imperial _Elites_
+of the Guard. His form and countenance were quite Vandyck--I never
+looked upon a face so well calculated for a picture; his dark whiskers
+and black curling hair composed an admirable frame for a couple of the
+most expressive eyes; his manners were extremely gentleman-like, and you
+may conceive I did not talk and look at him with any diminution of
+interest when I found he was on his way home from Moscow. He had gone
+through the whole of the retreat, had almost reached the boundaries of
+Poland, when at Calick he was wounded, taken prisoner, and marched back
+to Moscow. His description of the miseries of that horrible retreat was
+petrifying--when a horse fell it was instantly surrounded by famished
+Frenchmen, who devoured the carcase; not merely those who slept were
+frozen, but even sentries upon their posts. Yet with all this he imputed
+no blame to Buonaparte. The Russians, he said, had reason to thank the
+severity of their climate, without which they must have been completely
+conquered. I will say this, indeed, that the Russians themselves seem to
+consider their own efforts as rather secondary to the weather. Besides
+this officer we had a Citizen of Metz, a young officer of the
+Polytechnique School who had fought at Montmartre, and a youth who was
+silent; the other 3, however, made ample amends, talking incessantly,
+and all equally vehement in praise of Buonaparte. The officer blessed
+his stars that he had enough to live upon, and that he was now quitting
+a service which, having lost its brightest ornament, was no longer
+interesting or supportable. The young Polytechnique was equally violent,
+with less of the gentleman to soften it down. He, too, was disgusted,
+and had retired for the same reason (these Frenchmen are sad liars after
+all). Of course, as he had been engaged with his school companions I
+thought I could not have a better opportunity of ascertaining the number
+killed at Montmartre, as it was invariably circulated and believed at
+Paris that this defence was noble to a degree and that the greater part
+perished by their guns. You will recollect that the Polytechnique cadets
+I met on the heights of Montmartre said the same, and yet the youth
+asserted that they had not lost a single individual, that only 30 were
+wounded, whereas they knocked over the Russians in countless
+multitudes.[83] The Citizen took the best ground for his Panegyric. He
+referred us to the roads, the public buildings, the national
+improvements which France had gained under the dynasty of Napoleon; and
+when I hinted the intolerable weight of the taxes (being 1/5 on all
+rents and property) he made light of them, assuring me that Frenchmen
+had quite enough left for the comforts of life. When they all filled
+their glasses to drink to the health of their hero I turned to the
+Genoese officer and begged first to drink to the restoration of Genoa to
+that independence of which Napoleon had in great measure deprived her,
+adding that her present degradation was a cruel contrast to the
+dignified station she once held in Europe. His national superseded his
+Imperial feelings, and he drank my toast with great good humour and
+satisfaction; nor did he think it necessary in return to press me to
+drink success to the Emperor, though the Citizen on my refusal, half in
+joke, half in earnest, said he wished I might be ill off for the rest of
+my journey.
+
+My good fortune has not quitted me, however. The next morning on getting
+into the Diligence we found only one passenger--Major Kleist, nephew to
+the celebrated Prussian General and to General Tousein--a Russian
+equally famous here though not so well known in England. His appearance
+was much in his favor; he talked a great deal; had commanded a regiment
+of the Russian Imperial Elites of the Guard (in which he still was) at
+the battle of Leipsic and throughout the campaign; been engaged in every
+action from the Borodino to the capture of Paris; wounded two or three
+times; fought a French Officer in the Bois de Boulogne, and got his
+finger cut abominably; visited London and Portsmouth with his Emperor,
+dined with the Regent, &c. He told me many interesting anecdotes and
+particulars, although, from a certain random way of speaking and the
+loose, unconnected manner in which his words dropped from him, I could
+not place implicit confidence in what he said, nor vouch for the
+accuracy of his accounts. He said decidedly that Alexander had visited
+the Princess of Wales in London incog.; he mentioned an anecdote which I
+cannot quite believe, because had it occurred in Paris we must have
+heard of it. One day when Eugene Beauharnais was with Louis XVIII.
+Marmont came in. Eugene, on seeing him, turned to the King, said, "Sire,
+here is a Traitor; do not trust in him; he has betrayed one master, he
+may betray you."
+
+Marmont, of course, challenged him; they fought the next day and Marmont
+was wounded in the arm. He spoke highly of the King of Prussia as a
+military, unassuming, amiable, sensible man, and that he _does_ visit
+the tomb of his wife.[84] Alexander, he said, was fond of diplomacy, an
+amiable man, very brave, but not much of a general. I asked him what he
+thought of the Duchess of Oldenburg. When I said she had excellent sense
+and great information, he simply replied, "Oui, et peut-etre un pen
+trop." Of Constantine[85] he spoke with indignation, and his whiskers
+vibrated as he described his detestable character--debauched, depraved,
+cruel, dishonest, and a coward. Constantine was abusing a Colonel in
+very gross tones, a short time ago, for misconduct and incompetency in
+battle. "Indeed!" said the officer; "you must have been misinformed;
+this cannot arise from your own observation, as I do not recollect
+having ever seen you near me upon these occasions."
+
+No wonder the Russians were moderate towards the inhabitants during the
+campaign--their discipline was severe enough. Our friend the Major
+caught 7 Cossacks plundering a cottage; he had them all tied up and
+knouted them to death by the moderate infliction of 1,000 blows each. In
+truth he seemed to hold the lives of these gentlemen, including the
+Calmucs, rather cheap. "Pour moi," said he, "Je considere un Cossac, un
+Calmuc et un Moineau a peu pres comme la meme chose."
+
+At St. Avold we again fell in with a regiment of Russians, or rather
+detachments from many regiments. Whoever they were they did not appear
+to be in high favour with the Major. "Our army," said he, "is divided
+into three classes--the first we can trust for discipline and ability;
+the second consists of Cossacks and other irregulars, whose business is
+reconnoitring, plundering, and running away when they see the Enemy; the
+men before you compose the third--fellows who know nothing and do
+nothing, but can stand quietly in the place assigned them and get killed
+one after another without ever thinking of turning their backs"; and
+their appearance was very like their character--patient, heavy,
+slumbering, hard-featured countenance; sitting or standing without any
+appearance of animation.
+
+At St. Avold we began to lose the French language, and from this my
+fluency was reduced to signs, or at most to a very laconic speech--"Ich
+Englander, Ich woll haben Brod mitt Cafe," &c. At Dendrich, a little
+village near Forbach, we crossed the new line of demarcation between
+France and Austria, and found the towns chiefly occupied by Bavarians.
+Unless I am much mistaken, this country will soon be a bone of
+contention; the people (as far as I can judge in three days) are
+dissatisfied, and the leaders of France look with a jealous eye on the
+encroachment, and an imaginary line of separation will not easily be
+respected. Here I saw what is meant by a German forest--as far as the
+eye could reach all was wood. Austria may, if she pleases, by her new
+accession of territory become charcoal vendor to the whole world. The
+road is excellent, carried on in a fine, broad, straight line. Till
+Buonaparte spoke the word, there was no regular communication between
+Metz and Mayence, now there is not a more noble road for travelling. We
+were now in the Hock country; in the Villages we bought what I should
+have called wine of the same sort for 6d. a bottle....
+
+On Thursday, the 21st, we entered Mayence, over and through similar
+drawbridges, bastions, hornworks, counterscarps as at Metz; here we met
+a curious assemblage. By the first Gate were stationed a guard of
+Prussians with the British Lions on their caps, John Bull having
+supplied some Prussian Regiments with Uniforms. At the next gate a band
+of white Austrians, with their caps shaded with boughs of Acacia (you
+will remember that their custom of wearing green boughs in their Hats
+was interpreted by the French into a premeditated insult). These, with
+Saxons in red, Bavarians in light blue, and Russians in green, made out
+the remainder of the motley crew. We found an excellent Inn, and dined
+at a Table d'Hote with about 30 people. The striking contrast we already
+perceived between the French and Austrians was very amusing, the former
+all bustle and loquacity with dark hair, the latter grave and sedate
+with light hair; the Inns, accommodation, eating, &c., much cleaner; a
+band played to us during dinner, and I was pleased to see the Austrian
+moustachios recede with a smile of satisfaction as they listened to the
+"Chasse de Henri Quatre."
+
+There is little to be seen in the town. I found a most intelligent
+bookseller, and was tantalised with the number of fine Engravings, &c.,
+I might have purchased for a trifle....
+
+I have heard a curious political report repeated here, which is current
+all over the Continent--that Austria has sold the Netherlands and
+Brabant to England; the report gains credit probably because the towns
+in that part of the country are still garrisoned with British troops.
+Poor England is certainly not much beloved; we are admired, feared,
+respected, and courted; but these people will have, and perhaps with
+some reason, that upon all occasions our own Interest is the sole object
+of consideration; that our Treaties have the good of ourselves and not
+the peace of Europe at heart; and so far they carry this opinion, that I
+was very near getting into a quarrel with a fat man in the Diligence who
+spoke it as a common idea that we fought with our money and not with our
+blood, for that we were too rich to risk our lives, and had there been a
+bridge that Napoleon would have been in London long ago. I told him he
+knew nothing at all about the matter (to which, by the bye, he
+afterwards virtually assented), and as a Frenchman's choler does not
+last long, we were good friends the rest of the journey, and he
+apologised for his behaviour, saying, it was a failing of his--"de
+s'echauffer bientot." Upon one point we agreed, too, in politics, viz.,
+being Anti-Napoleonites.
+
+Now for the Rhine. At 10 o'clock on Friday, July 22nd, in a little
+rotten, picturesque-looking boat and two men (preferring a private
+conveyance to the public passage boats for the convenience of stopping
+at pleasure) we left Mayence; the river here is about half a mile
+across, traversable by a bridge of boats. The Maine falls into it just
+above the town, and there appears nothing on the Frankfort or Strasburgh
+side to interest a traveller's eye, the country being flat vine or corn
+land. The Stream runs with a steady rapidity of about three and a half
+or 4 miles an hour, so that in a boat, with the addition of oars, you
+may proceed at the rate of about 6 miles an hour. The distance to
+Cologne is about 120 miles. On the bank of the River we saw some of
+those immense floats preparing which are composed of timbers for the
+Holland markets. We glided with an imperceptible motion down the stream,
+expecting as we proceeded to behold the magnificent ruins of which we
+had heard so much. But, alas! village succeeded village, town followed
+town, and yet not a single turret made its appearance. We sat with our
+sketch books in battle array, but our pencils were asleep; we began to
+regret the uninteresting, even country we had passed from Metz to
+Mayence, and the time which might be called lost in coming so far for so
+useless a purpose, and to make vow after vow that we would never in
+future believe the account given by others respecting people and places.
+By this time our appetites began to grow keen, luckily, just at the time
+when our spirits began to flag, and, accordingly, we went on shore at
+Rudesheim, famous for its excellent hock, and having dispatched a dinner
+and bottle of hock we ventured forth to explore, and, luckily, fell in
+with a little Gothic round tower, which, with the dinner, rather raised
+our spirits and enabled us to proceed 4 or 5 miles further to Bingen
+when we turned a Corner....
+
+I verily believe such another corner does not exist in the world. From
+the corner of Bingen must be dated the beauties of the Rhine, and from
+the corner of Bingen I commence my next letter; suffice it now to say
+that the moment we turned the Corner we both, with one impulse, called
+out, "Oh!" and sat in the boat with our hands uplifted in speechless
+astonishment....
+
+
+LETTER X.
+
+AIX LA CHAPELLE, _July 27, 1814_.
+
+I left you turning the corner of Bingen, now let me describe what there
+presented itself. On the left a beautiful picturesque town, with tower
+and picturesque-looking steeples placed each exactly on the spot an
+artist would have selected, with hills and woods on each side and a
+bridge running over a small river which emptied itself in the Rhine.
+Immediately before us, on a small islet, stood the Tower of Mausthurm,
+or the Mouse turret, so called from a tradition that a Baron once locked
+up a number of his Vassals in a tower and then set fire to it and
+consumed it and its inhabitants, in consequence of which certain mice
+haunted him by day and by night to such a degree that he fled his
+Country and built this solitary Tower on its island. But all this would
+not do. The Mice pursued him to his Island, and the tale ends in his
+being devoured by them there.
+
+On both sides the river hills covered with vines and woods rose
+abruptly, and on the right, tottering on a pinnacle that frowns over the
+flood, stood the Castle of Ehrenfels....
+
+It would be quite impossible, and indeed unnecessary (as my sketch-book
+can best unfold the tale), to describe all we saw. For above 100 miles,
+with little interruption, the same scenery presented itself, attaining
+its superlative point of grandeur in the neighbourhood of Lorich and
+Bacharach. It might be called a perfect Louvre of old Castles, each
+being a chef d'oeuvre of its species. I could almost doubt the
+interference of a human hand in their creation. Placed upon elevated and
+apparently impossible crags, they look more like the fortresses of the
+Giants when they warred against the Gods than any thing else. But the
+Castles were not the only points of attraction. Every mile presented a
+village as interesting as the battlements which threatened to crush
+them to death from above. Each vied with its neighbour in picturesque
+beauty, and the people as well as the buildings in these remote nooks
+and corners partook of the wild character of the scenery. A shower of
+rain and close of the day induced us to make Bacharach our
+sleeping-place. The Landlord, with his night-cap on his head and pipe in
+his mouth, expressed no surprise at our appearance. The coffee and the
+milk and the hock came in due season when he had nodded acquiescence to
+my demand, and he puffed away with as much indifference as if two
+strange Englishmen had not been in his house. We found good clean beds,
+and should have slept very well but for the deep-toned Bell of the
+Church within a few yards of us, which tolled the time of night every
+half-hour, and for a watchman who, by way of murdering the little sleep
+which had survived the sound of the Bell, sounded with all his might a
+cow-horn, and then, as if perfectly satisfied that he had awaked every
+soul in the village, bawled out the hour and retired, leaving them just
+time to fall asleep again before the half-hour called for a repetition
+of his exertions.
+
+Every evening about dusk, in our course down the river, a curious
+Phenomenon presented itself which to me, as an Entomologist, had
+peculiar charms. We were surrounded as far as the eye could reach with
+what appeared to be a fall of snow, but which, in fact, was a cloud of
+beautiful white Ephemera just emerged from their Chrysalis state to
+flutter away in their perfection for one or two hours before their
+death. I mention this circumstance now, whilst it is fresh in my memory,
+for I really should hesitate in relating it before company for fear of
+being accused of traveller's stories. I had heard of them before, and
+was therefore not so much surprised, though the infinite number was
+truly astonishing.
+
+On Saturday, 23rd, we dined and spent an hour or two in Coblentz, which,
+situated at the junction of the Moselle with the Rhine, is strongly
+fortified towards the land. There is little worth notice in the town
+except a Stone fountain erected by Napoleon, from the pipes of which run
+the united streams of the two rivers. Upon these are carved in large
+letters the two following inscriptions, the one immediately below the
+other in characters precisely similar:--
+
+           A.N. MDCCCXII.
+     Memorable par la Campagne
+         Contre les Russes
+  Sous la Prefecture de Jules Dragon.
+
+     *       *       *       *       *
+
+      Vu et approuve par nous
+ Commandant Russe de la ville de Coblentz
+       Le Ier. Janvier 1814.
+
+At Coblentz as well as at Cologne the Rhine is passed by a flying
+bridge--_i.e._, a large boat moored to several other smaller ones, whose
+only use is to keep the large one steady. It swings from bank to bank,
+according as the mooring line is placed on one side or the other, merely
+by the action of the current producing a sort of compound motion.
+Coblentz is completely commanded by the heights of Ehrenbreitstein, a
+rock as high as Dover, the summit and side covered with the ruins of the
+fortress which the French blew up. The people in this country are pretty
+well satisfied with the change of affairs. They led a life of
+unsupportable tyranny under the rod of Napoleon. The river was crowded
+with custom house officers. Not a man could pass without being
+personally searched for Coffee and sugar in every part of his dress. All
+they lament now is the uncertainty of their fate. Many expressed a hope
+that the report of their being sold to England might be true. All they
+want is certainty, and then their commerce will revive. As it is,
+nothing can be more uninteresting in a commercial point of view than
+this noble river. We did not see above a dozen Merchants' barks in the
+course of 120 miles, and yet they say trade is tenfold greater than when
+Napoleon governed. Below Coblentz we passed some of the Chateaux of the
+German Princes, which are generally large, uncomfortable-looking houses,
+fitted up, as far as external examination allowed us to judge, without
+taste. The river became rather dull, but at Andernach, where we slept,
+it began to improve and to promise better for the next morning, and for
+some miles we were not disappointed.
+
+We were under the necessity of travelling on the Sunday, which in our
+situation I certainly held to be no crime. What I could do I did in
+inducing our Boatmen to attend their Mass. Religion, which appears to be
+nearly extinct in France, is by no means so in Germany. We find the
+churches all well attended and plentifully scattered over the whole
+country. In the course of the morning we passed a large Chapel dedicated
+to St. Apollonius, and noted for its Miracles, all of which were
+recorded by our Boatmen with the air of implicit reverence and belief.
+It happened to be the festival of the Saint, and from a distance of 10
+or 20 miles even the road was crowded with persons going or coming to
+their favourite shrine. You will recollect what Mme. de Stael says of
+the Germans' taste for religious music. Of this we had a specimen
+to-day. As we passed the height upon which the Chapel stood a boat
+containing 40 or 50 people put off from the shore and preceded us for
+several miles chaunting almost the whole way hymns and psalms. In the
+Evening, soon after leaving Bonn, we came up with another containing
+about 120, who every quarter of an hour delighted us with the same
+strains. They glided with the stream, and gave us time to row alongside,
+and we continued in their company the remainder of the day.
+
+Could I have heard and not have seen all would have been perfect, but
+the charm was almost broken by the heterogeneous mixture of piety and
+indifference, outward practice and inward negligence. Some were telling
+their beads and chattering Pater Nosters, some were at one moment on
+their knees, in the next quarrelling with their neighbour; but, after
+all, the general effect was so solemn and imposing that I was willing to
+spare my criticisms, and give them credit for perhaps more than they
+deserved. Conceive such a concourse of persons, on one of the finest
+Evenings imaginable, floating silently with the stream, and then at a
+signal given bursting forth into songs of praise to God--all perfect in
+their respective parts, now loud, now low, the softer tones of the women
+at one time singing alone. If the value of a Sabbath depends on the
+religious feelings excited, I may safely say I have passed few so
+valuable. They had no Priest amongst them, the hymns were the
+spontaneous flow of the moment. Whenever one began the rest were sure to
+follow.
+
+When upon the subject of music I must be the advocate of Mme. de Stael.
+She has been accused of falsehood in stating that in the Cottages in
+Germany a Piano Forte was a necessary piece of furniture. I cannot from
+my own knowledge go quite so far, but from my short experience of German
+manners I may safely say there is no nation in which Music is so
+popular. We have heard the notes of pianos and harpsichords issuing from
+holes and corners where they might least be expected, and as for flutes
+and other instruments, there is scarcely a village in which, in the
+course of an hour, you will not hear a dozen.
+
+At Cologne we were lodged at a French Inn kept by the landlord and his
+wife alone--no waiters, no other attendance--and yet the house was
+spacious, clean, and excellent. I never met with more attention and wish
+to accommodate, and not only in the house; the exertions of our host
+were exerted still further in our behalf. He introduced us to a Club
+chiefly composed of French Germans, who were as hospitably inclined as
+himself. One gentleman invited us to his house, would give us some
+excellent hock, introduced us to his family, amongst the rest a little
+fellow with a sabre by his side, with curling locks and countenance and
+manner interesting as Owen's. Hearing I was fond of pictures and painted
+glass, he carried me to a fine old Connoisseur, his father-in-law, whose
+fears and temper were a good deal roused by the "peste," as he termed
+it, of still having half a dozen Cossacks in his house. However, they
+were officers, and by his own account did him no harm whatever; but for
+fear of accidents he had unpanelled his great dining-room. Our friend
+had a large and excellent house, in a style very unlike and far more
+magnificent than is usually met with in England. In return for his
+civility I was delighted to have it in my power to give him a few ounces
+of our Pecco Tea which remained of our original stock. Travelling in
+Germany is certainly neither luxurious nor rapid; the custom of hiring
+a carriage for a certain distance and taking post horses does not extend
+here, and you are therefore reduced to the following dilemma, either
+taking a Carriage and the same horses for your journey or the "Post
+Waggon," or Diligence, which is of the two rather more rapid. Of two
+evils we preferred the last, and at half-past 8 this morning were landed
+at Aix la Chapelle, having performed the journey of 45 miles in 12 and a
+half hours shaken to death, choked with dust, and poisoned with tobacco,
+for here a great hooked pipe is as necessary an appendage to the mouth
+as the tongue itself. Under the circumstances above mentioned, with the
+Thermometer at about 98 into the bargain, you may conceive we were
+heartily glad to run from the coach office to the Baths as instinctively
+as young ducks. On looking over the list of persons visiting the place,
+we were delighted to find the names of Lord and Lady Glenbervie[86] and
+Mr. North.[87] Accordingly, having first ascended the highest steeple in
+the town, and been more disgusted than in any place I have seen since
+Spain, with virgins and dolls in beads and muslins, and pomatum and
+relics of saints' beards, and napkins from our Saviour's tomb, and
+mummeries quite disgraceful, we went to call upon them....
+
+We find this, like every other town and village, swarming with Prussian
+troops. General Kleist commands, and has no less an army than 170,000.
+This seems very like a determination of the King of Prussia not to give
+up the slice he has gained in the grand continental scramble. Every
+uniform we saw was of British manufacture. An officer told me we had
+furnished sufficient for 70,000 Infantry and 20,000 Cavalry.
+
+There is little to be seen in this place. The country about reminded me
+most of England; for the first time on the continent we saw hedges and
+trees of tolerable size growing amongst them. We were directed above all
+other things to pay our respects to the great gambling table. It is,
+indeed, one of the Lions of the Town; the room is splendid in size, and
+everybody goes to see it. It is open 3 times a day for about 2 or 3
+hours each time. About 50 or 60 people were winning or losing round a
+large table at a game apparently something like vingt un; not a word was
+said, but money was shovelled to the right and left very plentifully....
+I forgot to mention that near Linz on the Rhine we passed a headland
+fronted and inlaid with as fine a range of Basaltic columns as the
+Giant's Causeway, some bent, some leaning, some upright. They are
+plentiful throughout that part of the country, and are remarkably
+regular; all the stone posts are formed of them, and even here I still
+see them....
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH DILIGENCE.]
+
+
+LETTER XI.
+
+
+BRUXELLES, _29th_.
+
+After a night and greater part of two days passed in a species of oven
+called a French Diligence, with Reaumur Thermometer at 23--hotter, you
+will observe, than is necessary to hatch silkworms, and very nearly
+sufficient to annihilate your unfortunate brother and husband--did we
+arrive at Bruxelles.... I must give you a few details that you may fully
+understand the extent of our misery. We arrived at Liege all well, with
+only two other passengers; conceive our sorrow when on re-entering the
+Diligence after dinner we found besides ourselves and a lady the places
+occupied by a Dutch officer, who sat gasping without his coat, and so
+far exhausted by the heat, though he had been ten years in Batavia, that
+his pipe hung dangling as if he had not breath sufficient to keep its
+vestal fire alive, and a lady with two children besides living
+intruders. A net from the top was filled with bags, baskets, and
+band-boxes. Our night was sad indeed, and the groans of our
+fellow-travellers and the ineffectual fluttering of a fan which the
+Officer used proved how little they were satisfied with the order of
+things. The children were crammed with a succession of French Plums,
+almonds, garlicked mutton, liqueurs, and hock, all of which ingredients
+the kind mother endeavoured to cement on their Stomachs by Basons of
+milk at sunrise, but no sooner had a few additional jolts brought these
+bons-bons into close contact than the windows were occupied the rest of
+the journey by the stretched-out heads of the poor children.
+
+The heat has been more excessive for the last 4 or 5 days than has been
+experienced for many years in this country; and, in short, when _I_
+think it worth while to mention heat as the cause of real inconvenience,
+you may consider it such as would have thrown you into a fever. Enough
+of our personal sufferings, which you may easily conceive have been few
+indeed if the above is worth recording....
+
+I left Aix la Chapelle with no great regret. The Country round it is
+pretty, much resembling Kent, but as a town or watering-place it has
+nothing to recommend but its gambling-table. I expected to have found a
+museum of human nature and national character.--Tables d'hotes crowded
+with the best bred of all countries, but just the reverse. There were
+Tables d'hote's at the minor Inns tolerably frequented, but none at the
+most fashionable; there the guests lived by themselves. There is no
+point of rendezvous, no promenade, no Assembly room, where the
+concentrated world may be seen. Like Swedenborgh's theory of living in
+the midst of invisible spirits, so at Aix la Chapelle (unless time and
+opportunity may have thrown him into private circles) a traveller may be
+surrounded by Princes and Potentates without knowing or benefiting by
+their illustrious presence; the Glenbervies made the same complaint.
+From Aix to Liege we had the company of a very pleasant, well-informed
+citizen of Liege (indeed, all the military classes in Germany seem well
+informed), who in pathetic terms lamented his lot. In the cutting up of
+this grand continental dish Prussia has had Benjamin's mess in this part
+of the country. We have his troops, with few exceptions, forming a
+cordon within the Rhine from Saarbruck to Liege, and they are by no
+means popular. We have clothed them, and all the people feed them,
+besides having been called upon for contributions. It is flattering to
+see the high respect shown to the British character, which increases as
+opportunities occur of observing its effects. If we were like the people
+of Bruxelles (said our Liegeois) all would be well; we should rejoice in
+having a garrison. British troops, so far from exacting contributions or
+demanding free quarters, pay for everything, are beloved by the people,
+and money circulates, whereas under the Prussian government we pay all,
+are put to all manner of inconvenience, and receive neither thanks nor
+satisfaction. They appear to have been peculiarly unfortunate in all
+wars. Poor Liege has received a thump from one, a kick from another, and
+been robbed by a third. The Austrians have burnt their Suburbs, the
+Republicans sold their national and ecclesiastical Estates, and lately
+they have had the pleasure of being pillaged by French Marshals and
+satisfying the voracious appetite of the Crown Prince, who put them to
+an expense of 150,000 frs. in providing his table for 7 weeks, and when
+they hinted that they thought it but fair their Royal visitor should pay
+for his own dinners, he departed, leaving his bills unpaid. He seems to
+have been secreting himself here like a Cat in a barn watching the
+motions of the mice, acting solely from interested motives, and ready to
+pounce upon whatever might be safely turned to his own advantage. When
+the French retreated out of Holland the Duke of Tarentum[88] did the
+poor people at Liege the honour of making their town a point in the line
+of his march. He stopped one night, and because the inhabitants did not
+illuminate and express great joy at his illustrious presence he demanded
+an immediate contribution of 300,000 frs., 150,000 of which were paid
+the next morning. Luckily the Allies appeared towards Noon, and I hope
+his Grace will not get the remainder.
+
+In the character of almost all these French military leaders there are
+such blots and stains that one sickens at the thought of being of the
+same species. It would be endless to recount the acts of rapacity
+committed by all these engines of Imperial France; conscious that their
+throne might one day fall, they lost no time in amassing wealth, and
+pillage was the watchword from the Cathedral to the Cottage. Lisle is in
+the hands of the French, and by their own account the people have
+suffered every species of misery, yet they are strong for Napoleon,
+Garrison and Citizen, and I cannot find that they ever vented their
+feelings in any other way than in nicknaming their General Maison[89] (a
+cruel Tyrant who destroyed all their suburbs under pretence they might
+be in the way in case of a siege, which might have been done in a day
+had the Allies ever thought of such a thing); he is in consequence
+called General Brise Maison, and then the foolish people laugh and cry,
+"Que c'est bon cela," think they have done a great feat and submit like
+lambs. The country from Liege to Brussels wears the same Anglicised
+face--hedgerows and trees without any leading features. Bruxelles is a
+nice town--and really it was a gratification in passing the gate to see
+a fat John Bull keeping guard with his red coat. The Garrison consists
+of about 3,000, amongst the rest a regiment of Highlanders whose dress
+is the marvel of the people. A French Lady who came with us from Liege
+had seen some and expressed her utter surprise, and as if she was
+speaking to one who doubted the fact, she repeated, "C'est vrai!
+actuellement rien qu'un petit Jupon--mais comment!" and then she lifted
+her eyes and hands and reiterated, "petit jupon--et comment,"
+concluding, as if she almost doubted the evidence of her own senses, "Je
+les ai vus moi-meme."
+
+At Bruxelles at least we expected to see a numerous and genteel Table
+d'hote, and in this hope took up our quarters at a magnificent Hotel in
+the Place Royale--very fine indeed, and very full of English, much too
+full, for though we saw a few in the passages, or eyed them as they
+peeped out of their doors, and sat down with about 15 or 20 at table,
+"They spoke not, they moved not, they looked not around." By dint of
+asking for salt and mustard, and giving my next neighbour as much
+trouble as I could to show I had a tongue which I should be happy to
+use, we towards the 3rd Act of the Entertainment began to talk, and
+ascended gradually from the meats to the wines (here, it is true, there
+was some prolixity), and then to other subjects pretty well, though the
+burthen of my companion's song was that "the French were all d---- d
+rascals and ought to be well licked." We tried the Play; there we found
+a few English officers and one English lady, few of any other nation,
+not 50 altogether, in a house dismal and dirty. There is a delightful
+sort of wood and promenade called the Park....
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH SHIPS.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V
+
+THE LOW COUNTRIES
+
+Dutch arks--Walcheren memories--Earth-covered ships--Cossacks and
+keys--Brother alleys--Bergen op Zoom--Cossack shopping--Goat
+curricles--Treckschuyt travelling--Booksellers' shops.
+
+After Brussels the travellers proceeded to Holland, and saw Antwerp on
+their way. They had now gone beyond the country which Napoleon's
+victories had made famous, and the chief military interest of the
+country through which they passed, just eleven months before Waterloo,
+was derived from two very melancholy events for an Englishman to
+record--the Walcheren Expedition and the storming of Bergen op Zoom.
+
+
+LETTER XII
+
+BERGEN OP ZOOM, _July 31st_.
+
+...On leaving Bruxelles the country immediately loses its character, and
+becomes entirely Dutch, by which we exchange for the better, leaving
+dirty floors, houses, and coaches for as much cleanliness as soap and
+water can produce; I only regret from my experience of last night that
+they should be so much occupied in washing as to forget that drying is
+also a luxury, but there is no such novelty in this country, and so much
+to be seen that I have no time to catch cold. Our Diligence from
+Bruxelles held 10 people inside and 3 in front, and we had all ample
+elbow room; it was large, as you may suppose, as everything else in
+Holland is from top to bottom. Hats, Coats, breeches, pipes, horns,
+cows--are all gigantic, and so are the dogs, and because the poor things
+happen to be so, they harness a parcel of them together and breed them
+up to draw fish-carts. I yesterday met a man driving four-in-hand; in
+turning a corner and meeting three of these open-mouthed Mastiffs
+panting and pulling, you might almost fancy it was Cerberus drawing the
+Chariot of Proserpine--but I am wandering from the Diligence, which
+deserves some description. It resembled a little Theatre more than a
+coach, with front boxes, pit, &c., lined with common velvet. We had a
+curious collection of passengers. Opposite to me sat a prize
+thoroughbred Dutch woman as clean and tidy as she was ugly and
+phlegmatic, with a close-plaited cap, unruffled white shawl, and golden
+cross suspended from her neck. I took a sketch while she stared me in
+the face unconscious of the honor conferred. By her side sat a French
+woman crowned with the lofty towers of an Oldenburg Bonnet. By my side a
+spruce, pretty, Englishwoman, whom I somehow or other suspected had
+been serving with his Britannic Majesty's troops now occupying Belgium.
+She had on her right hand a huge Brabanter who spoke English, and had
+acquired, I have no doubt, a few additional pounds of fat by living in
+London. Edward sat behind me in a line with the Brabanter's wife and a
+Dutch peasant. These, with two or three minor characters, completed our
+cargo, and away we went on the finest road in the world towards Antwerp
+between a triple row of Abeles and poplars, and skirting the bank of a
+fine canal upon which floated a fleet of Kuyp's barks, and by which
+grazed Paul Potter's oxen--the whole road was, in truth, a gallery of
+the Flemish school. By the door of every ale-house a living group from
+Teniers and Ostade, with here and there bits from Berghem and Hobbema,
+&c. Halfway between Bruxelles and Antwerp is Malines. I had began to
+fear that I had lost my powers of observation, and was, therefore, no
+longer struck with the external appearance of the towns--in fact, that
+the novelty was gone, and that my eyes were too much familiarised with
+such objects to notice them. Happily Malines undeceived me, and
+convinced me I was still fully alive to whatever had any real
+peculiarity of character to entitle it to notice. With the exception of
+the villages on the Rhine, all the towns and houses I had seen lately
+had little to recommend them, and were like half the people in the
+world, possessed of no character of their own, their doors and windows
+like all other doors and windows, but Malines had doors and windows of
+its own, and seemed to take a pride in exhibiting its own little queer
+originalities; in every house was a different idea. The people were of a
+piece with their dwellings; I could almost fancy I was permitted to
+inspect the toys of some Brobdignag baby who washed, cleaned, and combed
+the beings before me every morning and locked them up in their separate
+boxes every evening. When the nice green doors of the nice painted
+houses opened, I bethought me of the Dutch ark you bought for Owen, and
+was prepared to make my best bow to Noah and his wife, who I expected to
+step forth with Ham and Japhet, and all the birds and beasts behind
+them.
+
+We approached Antwerp as the sun was setting behind its beautiful
+Cathedral and shining upon the pennants of the fleet which Bonaparte has
+kindly built for the accommodation of the allied powers. The Antwerpers
+had a well-arranged promenade and tea garden, &c., about a mile from the
+house, well wooded. These, with all the houses in the suburbs, the
+French entirely destroyed, leaving not a wreck behind. I must acquit
+them of wanton cruelty here, however, as in sieges these devastations
+are necessary. We passed thro' a complete course of fortifications, and
+then entered what, from all I can perceive, is the best town I have seen
+on the continent.
+
+It is a mass of fine streets, fine houses, and fine churches; the Tower
+of the Cathedral is quite a Bijou 620 steps in height! but the ascent
+was well rewarded; from thence a very respectable tour of about 30 miles
+in every direction may be accomplished. Walcheren and Lillo (the
+celebrated fort which prevented our ascending the Scheld) were visible
+without any difficulty, with Cadsand and all the well-known names of
+that silly expedition,[90] rendered apparently more silly by seeing how
+impossible it would have been to have taken Antwerp unless by a regular
+siege, which might have been of endless duration; we might have
+bombarded the basons in which the men-of-war were deposited, and with
+about as much success as Sir Thos. Graham,[91] who, after expending a
+mint of money in bombs and powders, in the course of two days contrived
+to send about half a dozen shells on board the line of battleships. I
+was on board the _Albania_, which had suffered the most. The extent of
+her damage was two shells which passed thro' the decks, exploding
+without much mischief, and a round-shot which shivered a quarter gallery
+and then fell on the ice--indeed, bombarding vessels, which are objects
+so comparatively small, is something like attempting to shoot wild ducks
+on Radnor Mere by firing over their heads with ball in hopes that in its
+descent it may come in contact with the bird's head.
+
+About a dozen Gun Brigs were sunk, all of which we saw with their masts
+above the water; a few houses near the Bason were shattered, and about
+20 Townsmen killed. The country round Antwerp is quite flat, and
+appears, with the exception of 2 or 3 miles round the town, a perfect
+wood; fancy such a wood with the Scheldt winding through it, several
+roads radiating in lines straight as arrows, with here and there a
+steeple breaking the horizontal line, and you may suppose yourself at
+the top of the Cathedral. The Town is large, with the river washing the
+whole of one side; on the south are the dockyards, with rope walks and
+everything in fine style; the destruction of these might have been
+practicable, as they are rather beyond the line of immediate
+fortifications, but probably they have works for their express
+protection, and the advantage gained must have been in proportion to the
+stores and vessels building. I counted 16 or 17 ships of the line on the
+Stocks, 2 or 3 of 120 Guns. In the Scheldt floated 13 in a state of
+apparent equipment; in the basons 9--all of the line--thus completing a
+fleet of 39 fine Ships, besides a few frigates and Gun Brigs
+innumerable--of these only two were Dutch.
+
+It was curious to see such a fleet, and some of them were actually worn
+out, the utmost extent of whose naval career had been an expedition to
+Flushing. On descending the Spire, we examined the Carillons, which are
+a Gamut of chiming bells of all sizes--the total number for them and
+the Church is 82; by a clock work they play every 7 minutes, so that the
+neighbourhood of the Cathedral is a scene of perpetual harmony; they can
+also be played by hand. Most of the churches in this country have them.
+Our Guards in marching into Alkmaar were surprised and gratified in
+hearing the church bells strike up "God Save the King." There are
+several good churches in the town, and once all were decorated with the
+works of Rubens, which Napoleon carried off. I should, however, be
+perfectly satisfied with a selection from the remainder. I saw a Vandyck
+on the subject of our Saviour recommending the Virgin Mary to St. John,
+which was incomparable; it quite haunts me at this moment, and, however
+horrible the effect of the bleeding figure on the Cross, I do not wish
+to lose the impression. The Dutch have carried the art of carving in
+wood to a most extraordinary pitch of perfection. I am surprised it has
+not been more spoken of; some of their pulpits are really quite
+marvellous. Religion increases and, I think, improves. There is less
+mummery here than at Aix and some other places I have lately seen, with
+the exception of a few little Saviours in powdered wigs and gilt satin
+and muslin frocks, and a very singular figure as large as life, supposed
+to represent the deposition in the holy sepulchre, which was covered by
+a shroud of worsted gauze, studded over with enormous artificial flowers
+and tinsel like a Lady's court dress.
+
+Wherever we went, at whatever hour, Mass was performing to good
+congregations. The women here all dress in long black shawls, or,
+rather, hooded wrappers, which, as they knelt before their confessional
+boxes, were extremely appropriate and solemn. The English have a church
+here for the garrison; it is simplicity itself. They have even removed
+several fine pictures, the rooms having been a sort of museum--the
+Vandyck I alluded to among the rest....
+
+In our morning's tour we, of course, visited the celebrated basons for
+the men-of-war. "Still harping upon these ships," I can fancy you
+exclaiming; "when will he have done with them?" You must bear it
+patiently. It was on account of these said basons, in a great measure,
+that I came to Antwerp, so you must endure their birth, parentage, and
+education.
+
+There are two Basons, one calculated for 16, the other for 30 sail of
+the line; they are simple excavations. Nature never thought of such a
+thing, and gave no helping hand. It was Napoleon's work from first to
+last; the labour and expense must have been enormous. They open by dock
+gates immediately into the Scheldt, from whence each ship can proceed
+armed and fitted cap a pie (if she dares) to fight the English. They
+were begun and finished in two years, but improvements were suggested,
+and there is no knowing what more the Emperor intended to do.
+Precautions had been taken during the bombardment to preserve the
+Ships. For instance, all the decks were propped up by a number of spars,
+by which means if a bomb fell it did no other mischief than forcing its
+way through and carrying all before its immediate course, whereas
+without the props it might have shaken the timbers and weakened the
+access considerably. In every ship also were 2 cartloads of earth, to
+throw over any inflammable substance which might have fallen on board.
+From this mole hill of a truth was engendered a mountainous falsehood
+for home consumption. I read in the English Papers of the time that the
+French had scuttled their ships to the level of the water, and then
+covered them over with earth, which was carefully sodded!! Sir Thos.
+Graham's batteries were very near the basons, half-way between the
+village of Muxham, about 2 miles from the town and the nearest French
+battery. From one of the latter we had a perfect conception of the whole
+business. Without saying a word about my extreme partiality and fears
+for the safety of No. 1, and probable inconvenience which might ensue
+from loss of said No. 1 to Nos. 2, 3 and 4, I wonder much whether my
+curiosity would have allowed me to sleep quite in the back ground. The
+sight must from this point have been superb, as it was the intention to
+throw the bombs over this battery so as to make them fall in the bason
+amongst the ducks. The top of the Cathedral would have been perfection,
+but the Governor most vexatiously kept the keys....
+
+We found abundance of British troops here, remnants of all the regiments
+who had survived the storming of Bergen op Zoom, about 3 or 4,000....
+They have no reason to complain of their quarters, though it is possible
+many of them may be of the same opinion with a soldier of the Guards,
+who, in reply to my question of "How do you like Antwerp?" said with
+great earnestness, "I like St. James's Park a great deal better." I
+observed several ladies with their "petits chapeaux," and I must do them
+the justice to say they are much handsomer than the French, German, or
+Dutch.... English Curricles, coaches, and Chariots are to be seen, and
+some few English horses, which are certainly better calculated for speed
+and pleasant driving than the heavy breed of this country. Flanders
+Mares--as Henry VIII. tells us by comparing his queen to one--have never
+been remarkable for elegance and activity, and I was much entertained in
+seeing an Englishman break in a couple of these for a Tandem.
+
+...At our Table d'hote, where we met nothing but English merchants, I
+heard the report of the day that Belgium was to be a sort of independent
+state, under the Prince of Orange's government, according to its old
+laws and customs, and that he was to hold a court at Bruxelles.... The
+Prince of Orange is now in fact gone to make his public entrance into
+Bruxelles....
+
+There is a custom that the key of the town should be presented to the
+possessor or Governor of the Town on a magnificent silver-gilt plate.
+When the Cossack chief came, as usual, the key was offered, which the
+good, simple man quietly took, put into his pocket, and forgot to
+return. When I saw the dish, the man told me this anecdote, and lamented
+wofully the loss of his key, which may possibly in future turn the lock
+of some dirty cupboard or other on the banks of the Don. It seems these
+Cossacks were immensely rich. Latterly I have been assured they could
+not fight had they been inclined, from the excessive height of their
+saddles and weight of their clothes; on the one they could scarcely sit,
+and with the others they could scarcely walk. They had always 3 or 4
+Coats or coverings, and in the folds of these were unkennelled 1,330
+Napoleons on one of them who happened to die at Bruxelles.
+
+We quitted Antwerp after dinner yesterday for Bergen op Zoom by a new
+sort of conveyance; by way of variety we "voitured" it, viz., hired a
+carriage, driver, and horses for Breda on our way to Amsterdam. It was a
+nice sort of Gig Phaeton, with comfortable seats for 4, the Driver on
+the front bench. I fear I must retract what I said in the beginning of
+this letter, as to the decided change in houses and people here. It was
+most conspicuous about Malines, but on this road there was nothing
+remarkable one way or the other.
+
+Our road was, however, Dutch throughout. Upon a sort of raised dyke,
+between a monotonous avenue of stunted willows, did we jog gently on,
+with nothing to relieve the eye but here and there a windmill or a farm.
+On our left we saw, as far as eye could reach, the Swamp (or I scarcely
+know what to call it), which fills up the spaces between the Main and
+South Beveland, and it almost gave me the Walcheren fever to look at it.
+The Evening Gun of Flushing saluted the Sun as he sank to rest behind
+these muddy isles, and we begun to fear, as night drew on, that we
+should have to take up our night's lodging in the Gig, for though he
+knew that the gates of the Fortress were closed at 9, our sturdy
+Dutchman moved not a peg the faster. However, we escaped the evil, and
+10 minutes before 9 we passed the drawbridge of the ditch leading to the
+Antwerp gate, which had been the grave of the 1st Column of Guards, led
+by General Cooke, on the 8th March....
+
+
+                                     NOTE.
+
+     _Storming of Bergen op Zoom, March 8, 1814._--Sir Thomas Graham had
+     landed 6,000 men on October 7, 1813, in S. Beveland, in order to
+     combine with the Prussians to drive the French from Holland.
+
+     On March 8, 1814, he led 4,000 British troops against Bergen op
+     Zoom. They were formed into four columns, of which two were to
+     attack the fortifications at different points; the third to make a
+     false attack; the fourth to attack the entrance of the harbour,
+     which is fordable at low water.
+
+     The first, led by Major-General Cooke, incurred some delay in
+     passing the ditch on the ice, but at length established itself on
+     the rampart.
+
+     The right column, under Major-General Skerret and Brigadier-General
+     Gore, had forced their way into the body of the place, but the fall
+     of General Gore and the dangerous wounds of Skerret caused the
+     column to fall into disorder and suffer great loss in killed,
+     wounded, and prisoners. The centre column was driven back by the
+     heavy fire of the place, but re-formed and marched round to join
+     General Cooke. At daybreak the enemy turned the guns of the place
+     on the unprotected rampart and much loss and confusion ensued.
+     General Cooke, despairing of success, directed the retreat of the
+     Guards, and, finding it impossible to withdraw his weak battalions,
+     he saved the lives of his remaining men by surrender.
+
+     The Governor of Bergen op Zoom agreed to a suspension of
+     hostilities for an exchange of prisoners. The killed were computed
+     at 300, prisoners, 1,800.--ED.
+
+
+LETTER XIII.
+
+HAGUE, _August 4, 1814._
+
+Sterne pities the man who could go from Dan to Beersheba and say that
+all was barren, and I must pity the man who travels from Bergen op Zoom
+to Amsterdam and says that Holland, with all its flatness, is not worth
+visiting.
+
+    "Oh Willow, Willow, Willow, here
+     Each stands bowing to another,
+     And every Alley finds its brother."
+
+Nature never abhorred a vacuum more than she herself is abhorred by
+these Dutchmen; here rivers run above their levels and cattle feed where
+fishes were by nature intended to swim. Hogarth's line of beauty is
+unknown in Holland. No line can be either beautiful or palatable except
+that which (defined mathematically) is the shortest that can be drawn
+between two given points. But I have yet a great deal to say before I
+come to these roads. I left you at Bergen op Zoom, just arrived. On
+Sunday morning, after a little enquiry, we were glad to find there was a
+Protestant French Church in the town, and thither we went. I cannot say
+much for the sermon; it was on I Cor. vii. 20, in which a great deal of
+French display of vehemence and action made up in some degree for a
+feeble prolixity of words; in one part, however, he made an appeal,
+which has at least had the effect of eloquence and certainly came home
+to the heart. He described the miseries the country had so long endured
+and the happy change which had now taken place. But while he blest the
+change he lamented the tears which must be shed from the fatal effects
+of the war which produced it; and then turning to us, whom he perceived
+to be Englishmen, he proceeded: "It is for us to lament the sad disaster
+which this town was doomed to witness in the loss of our friends (our
+Compatriots, I may say), who shed their blood for the restoration of our
+liberties." After church I went into the vestry to tell him who and what
+I was. As an Englishman he shook me by the hand, and when he understood
+I was a Protestant minister he shook it again. Had he asked me to dine I
+should have accepted his invitation, but unluckily he lost my company by
+paying what he conceived to be a greater compliment. Like an Indian
+warrior, he offered the calumet of peace and begged I would go home and
+_smoke_ with him. Now, I would have gone through a good deal to have had
+some conversation with him, but really on one of the hottest days of
+July, when I was anxious, moreover, to inspect the fortification,
+smoking would not do, and taking our leave he sent his schoolmaster, an
+intelligent man who had a brother a Captain in one of our assaulting
+regiments, to be our guide and tell the melancholy tale.... And now let
+me see if I can make that clear to you which has never been made clear
+to anybody yet. "At 10 o'clock," said our guide, "I was at supper with a
+little party, some French officers being present; about half after 10
+some musket shots were heard; this was no uncommon sound and we took no
+notice; however, it rather increased, and the French sent a sergeant to
+know the cause, and remained chatting quietly. In about ten minutes in
+burst the sergeant, 'Vite, vite, a vos portes! Les Anglais sont dans la
+ville.'" I need not add the party broke up in a hurry; our Guide sallied
+forth with the rest, and went on the Ramparts for _curiosity_, but
+whilst he was gratifying this passion, on a pitch dark night, down drops
+a man who stood near him, and whiz flew some bullets, upon which he took
+to his heels, got home, and saw no more; indeed, had he been inclined it
+would have been impossible, for Patrols paraded the streets and shot
+every one who was not a French soldier. Thus far our schoolmaster was an
+eye-witness; for the remainder you must trust to my account from as
+minute an enquiry as I could make upon the spot with Sir T. Graham's
+dispatches in my hand, which threw very little light upon the subject.
+
+[Illustration: BERGEN OP ZOOM.
+
+    A. The Steenbergen Gate.
+    B. Breda Gate.
+    C. Antwerp Gate.
+    D. Water Gate.
+    E. Picket of veteran French Soldiers.
+    F. River or creek running into the town.
+    G. Side from whence the English approach.
+    H. Bastion near Breda Gate.
+
+Under the guidance of some inhabitants who had fled to the English, soon
+after 10 o'clock, March 8th, the ground covered with snow and ice, our
+troops marched in silence to their respective posts. The Guards, led by
+General Cooke, were to go round towards B and C, at A a false attack was
+to be made; another column was to force open the gates at B, and the
+4th column, led by Generals Skerret and Gore, proceeded by the dotted
+line, crossed the river up to their middle, and skirting round between
+the works were the first to enter the town behind some houses which
+fronted the Quay. Hitherto all went on well, and the object of all the
+Columns was to concentrate at G, but no sooner had the 4th Column gained
+its point (from what cause nobody knows, for I cannot conceive that the
+immediate loss of its two Generals was the sole cause) than all
+subordination seems to have been at an end, and the men, instead of
+going on, occupied themselves with revelling and drinking and getting
+warm in the houses by the Quay, and though many prisoners were taken,
+they were imprudently left unguarded with arms in their hands, which
+they very soon turned against their captors with fatal success. The
+doors and windows in this part of the town bore evidence of the business
+which for a short time was carried on. The Guards gained their point,
+and so did the Column at B in part, for the French were killed in great
+numbers on Bastion H, in fact, eleven Bastions were taken, and all
+before midnight; but from this period till 7 in the morning, when the
+affair closed, I can give you no clear account. Nobody seemed to know
+what was doing, all appears to have been confusion--not a gun was
+spiked, none were turned towards the Town. In the meantime the French
+were no inactive observers of what was passing; they came forward most
+manfully, fighting hand to hand, and though I could not find out that
+there was the slightest reason for suspecting they were at all prepared
+beyond what was usual, or aware of the attack, they contrived to be
+instantly at the right point, and though with barely 3,000 men to defend
+works, the inner circle of which is at least 2 miles in circumference,
+and with 3,900 men attacking, they remained master of the field, killing
+near 400 and taking 1,500 prisoners. The French General was an elderly
+man who left all to his Aide de Camp. He was, in fact, the head, and has
+been rewarded most deservedly in the ribbon of the Legion of Honor. The
+French, it is supposed, lost 5 or 600 men. The number was certainly
+great, and they were aware of it, for they buried their dead directly,
+to prevent the possibility of counting. The Bergen op Zoom people say it
+is utterly impossible to account for the failure of the assault but on
+the supposition that the English were led to conclude that the French
+would make no resistance or that they were badly officered. I should be
+sorry to believe the latter, and yet I heard from good authority that
+many of these, instead of encouraging their men at the Water post gate,
+were actually busied in collecting braziers and fires to warm themselves
+and rest upon their arms.
+
+It may be supposed that wading on such a night upwards of 50 yards in
+mud and water must have been dreadfully cold, but I can scarcely
+conceive that upon a service so important cold could have any influence;
+however, never having led an assault under such circumstances I can be
+no judge. Were I to give my own opinion, it would be this: That the
+affair was entrusted to certain General officers who were unfortunately
+killed in the beginning of the action; that no precautions appear to
+have been provided against such accidents, and no remedy applied to the
+confusion thereby created--the Columns knew not what to do, each on
+gaining its point possibly waiting for orders to proceed; that the
+darkness increased the confusion--in short, that "the right hand knew
+not what the left hand did," and that the French acted with incomparable
+bravery and skill. It should be added that most of their troops were
+conscripts. It is an ugly story altogether, and I shall say no more. A
+sketch of the works in and near the Antwerp gate will give you some idea
+of the spot which has proved the grave of so many fine officers and men.
+At 4 o'clock we quitted the town for Breda--the greatest part of the
+road inexorably flat and uninteresting; but what is lost in the country
+is gained in the Towns, villages, and people--they are _sui generis_.
+For 3 hours did we toil through a deep sand between parallel lines of
+willows of the same size, shape, and dimensions; then for 3 hours more
+did we proceed at a foot pace over a common; this brought us to Breda
+just in time for the gates, through which we trotted to the usual rattle
+of drawbridges, chains, &c. By the bright light of the moon at night and
+earliest dawn of the following morning we rambled through the streets.
+Breda was one of the last towns which got rid of its French garrison
+without a siege; it departed one night without beat of drum, and the
+Cossacks came in to breakfast, leaving the trembling inhabitants to
+doubt whether in escaping Scylla they were not approaching Charybdis.
+However, they behaved tolerably well. "Did they pillage?" said I to a
+Breda lady who travelled with us in the Diligence. "Oh non," she
+replied; "seulement quelque fois ils prenaient des choses sans payer."
+Thus a Cossack comes into a Shop, makes signs he wants some Cloth. The
+Dutchman, delighted with the idea of accommodating a new purchaser,
+takes down his best pieces. The Cossack looks them over, fixes on one,
+takes it up, pops it under his arm, and walks off, leaving the
+astonished vendor gaping behind his counter to meditate on the Profits
+of this new verbal ceremony.
+
+After the Cossacks came the Prussians, who remained a long time and were
+little better than the French--they lodged in free quarters, domineered
+without mercy, and paid for nothing. All the Prussian officers I have
+seen appeared gentleman-like men, but they are nowhere popular. The
+English succeeded the Prussians, they were all "charmants"; then came
+the Dutch who were "comme ca," but then "n'importe" they were their own
+countrymen. I rather begin to like the Dutch women. The next day in the
+Diligence we had my present informant, a lively, talkative damsel of
+Breda, a very pretty girl of the same town who talked nothing but
+Dutch, and an old Lady who would have been perfect if everything had
+been as charming as her Dress.
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH DILIGENCE ON BOARD A BOAT.]
+
+The Ladies are elegant and apparently well-behaved, with all the
+liveliness of the French. We met with no adventures till we came to a
+river; here a regiment of Dutch cavalry impeded our progress and luckily
+gave us time to get our breakfast; the next river brought us in contact
+with a detachment of Artillery waggons. Our Diligence consisted of a
+Machine with 6 seats inside, a cabriolet in which sat Edward and myself,
+on a little seat before us the driver with his legs dangling for want of
+a footboard. His patience had been rather put to the test by the
+cavalry, but the Artillery quite upset him, and on getting entangled
+amongst their train, uttering two of the French words he had learnt from
+his servitude under the Emperor, viz., "sacre bleu," he popped his pipe
+into his pocket, threw the reins into my hands, and jumped down to
+request the Officer's permission to pass. Under existing circumstances I
+confess I did not much like the responsibility of the charge committed
+to me, but fortunately our conductor soon returned with permission to
+pass. We got out while he drove his 4 in hand quietly into the boat,
+every cranny of which was filled up by soldiers and artillery horses,
+which, as if to shew off the pomp of war, capered and reared before our
+sedate steeds, who only wanted pipes in their mouths to rival the
+impenetrable gravity of their driver. It is necessary to cross the Waal
+before you get to Gorum. When we got to the bank not a boat was to be
+had. With some difficulty at last our Coachman procured a miserable punt
+with a boy. What with our Trunks and passengers we were quite enough for
+it; indeed, the female part of our crew hesitated for some time; and
+well they might, for no sooner had we shoved from the shore than a leak
+was discovered which threatened serious consequences. It gained rapidly;
+the old Lady above mentioned was in despair, and sat with her thumb
+crammed over the spouting orifice the whole time, while a young man
+baled with his shoes as fast as possible. This was not all. The Stream
+carried us down, and our driver--no great sailor--caught crabs at every
+other pull; then we got upon a bank. Really I begun to think it would be
+quite as well to be safe now, but as for _fear_, it was out of the
+question, the lamentations of the women, and terrors of the old lady in
+particular, kept us quite in Spirits. The last event was the total
+overthrow of the driver by a sudden bump against the bank. Poor fellow!
+he was not only well drenched, but his head cut by falling against the
+seat of the boat in his overturn. Though every nerve vibrated with
+compassion, it was quite impossible to avoid laughing. Luckily a glass
+of vinegar well rubbed upon the wound soon set him to rights and good
+humor. Gorum and Naard were the last two towns which the French
+retained, and poor Gorum suffered sadly. The Suburbs, Tea gardens,
+avenues, walks, &c., were all destroyed by the French to prevent the
+Prussians coming in, and their houses and heads knocked about with shot
+and shells to drive the French out. Luckily the French listened to the
+entreaties of the people and capitulated.
+
+I wish they would bombard Knutsford or Macclesfield or some of our Towns
+for an hour or two, just to shew them what war is. Bang, whiz, down
+comes a shell and away goes a house. War and slavery have quite
+reconciled the Dutch to the abdication of Napoleon. In answer to the
+question, "Etes vous content de ces changements?" you meet with no
+doubtful shrug of the shoulders, no ambiguous "mais que, oui"; an
+instantaneous extra whiff of satisfaction is puffed forth, accompanied
+with the synonimous terms, "Napoleon et Diable." On leaving Gorum we
+acquired an accession of passengers--a protestant clergyman and a fat
+man, who looked much like a conjurer or alchymist. A protestant
+clergyman in Holland may be known by his dress--a cocked hat of a
+peculiar model covers a lank head of unpowdered hair. Nothing white
+appears throughout but the pipe in his mouth and cravat round his neck,
+a long black coat down to his ancles, with black worsted stockings and
+gold-headed cane. I must say they do not look over and above agreeable,
+and as they hate all innovations few have learnt French, so that I have
+been foiled in most of my attempts at conversation.
+
+From Gorum to Utrecht the country improves; we had hitherto travelled
+sometimes on Dyke tops, sometimes in Dyke bottoms which only required
+the efforts of a few able-bodied rats to let the water in upon us. It is
+quite surprising to see on what a precarious tenure Holland is held.
+Take but a Dyke away, overturn one dam, and see what discord
+follows--and this does sometimes happen. In 1809 the Ice broke through
+near Gorum and carried away countless houses, men, cattle, &c. I have
+said the country improved, _i.e._, we got into a land of villas and
+Trees, some of them beautifully laid out, and all, stable included,
+bright and clean as possible. Each, too, has its Summer house perched by
+the Canal side and (the Evening being fine) well filled with parties of
+ladies and gentlemen. The road for many miles was ornamented with wooden
+triumphal arches and hung with festoons of flowers, &c., as a compliment
+to the Emperor Alexander, who passed about a month ago....
+
+...We arrived at Amsterdam on Monday night; here, again, all was new.
+Hitherto we had rode in Carriages of various descriptions _with_ wheels,
+but in Amsterdam you have them without wheels, drawn by a fine horse and
+driven by a man who walks by the side with his long reins....
+
+[Illustration: GOAT CARRIAGE FOR THE LITTLE KING OF ROME.]
+
+But what delighted me more than anything else was the prospect of
+suiting Owen and Mary exactly. What think you of a Goat Curricle? Goats
+are regularly trained for draught, and are the prettiest things in the
+world, trotting in neat harness with two or three children. I shall,
+if I have time at Rotterdam, see if I can get a pair. Buonaparte was so
+delighted with them that he ordered 4 for the King of Rome. Amsterdam is
+a very large, gloomy town, intersected in all directions by water,
+monotonous in the extreme. Had I not been convinced by the evidence of
+my senses in looking down from a house top on several objects I had
+visited in different parts of the town, I should have suspected that our
+Laquais de place had amused himself by walking up and down the same
+street where Canals with trees on each side do not keep the houses
+asunder; high buildings and narrow streets of dark, small brown brick
+constitute the character of the town, and, having seen one, you have
+seen the whole. In the course of my walk I heard that two or three
+Englishmen were settled in the town. I called on one, the Revd. Mr.
+Lowe, with little of the Englishman left but the language. He had been
+there 30 years and held a Presbyterian Church. I asked him if Napoleon
+troubled the English settlers during the war. He said that, provided
+they conformed quickly to the laws and regulations, they experienced no
+persecution. Upon my asking if it was at all necessary to conceal his
+extraction, he exclaimed, "What, conceal my extraction, deny my country?
+Not for all the Emperors in the world. No, I have too much conscience
+and independence. To be sure, I was obliged by law to pray for the
+health and prosperity of Buonaparte every Sunday. But what signified
+that? God Almighty understood very well what I meant, and that I
+heartily wished his death all the time." By long residence in Holland,
+he had adopted a good portion of Dutch impenetrability and slowness. He
+assured us nothing short of a week could give us the least chance of
+seeing the curiosities of Amsterdam, and when I told him that we were
+(according to our common custom of early rising) to be in North Holland
+by 6 o'clock in the morning, and had seen all by 11 o'clock which
+occupies a Dutchman's whole day, and gave him a few instances of our
+mode of operation, he threw himself back, raised his cocked hat to
+examine us more thoroughly, put his arms akimbo and exclaimed, "How do
+you support human nature. It must expire under such fatigue," and I
+found it quite impossible to convince him that my health for the last
+month had been infinitely better than usual. But, after all, I fear you
+will find me growing old. I had a compliment paid to my grey hairs, in
+coming from Utrecht, which must be mentioned. The fat Alchymist, above
+mentioned, squeezed himself into Edward's place in the Diligence; on
+remonstrating to a young Dutch gentleman who spoke French, he replied,
+"Que c'etait vraiment impoli mais que c'etait un viellard a qui on
+devait ceder quelque chose, et je vous assure, Monsieur, comme vous etes
+aussi un peu age si vous aviez pris ma place je vous l'aurais cede." In
+Amsterdam there is little to be seen but the Palais, in which there is a
+splendid collection of Flemish pictures--two or three of the finest of
+Rembrandt--and without exception the most splendid room I have seen in
+Europe. It is the great Hall of audience; King Louis[92] has fitted up
+everything in grand style. We went over what the Dutchmen cry up as an
+object which it would be unpardonable not to see--the Felix meritus, a
+sort of Lecture room with some wretched museums attached. I found
+nothing to interest me but a capital figure of a Dutchman, who came also
+to see the wonders. Nothing could exceed his attitudes as he looked with
+an eye of incredulity whilst they explained a planetarium, examined with
+an air of conscious safety a snake corked up in a bottle, and ogled with
+terror a skeleton which grinned at him out of his case. I walked round
+and tried his perspective in all directions, and rather blushed when,
+with treacherous condescension, I requested him to use my Glass that I
+might see how he looked peeping thro' a Telescope. This is such a Museum
+as will furnish me with samples of oddities for the rest of my life.
+
+
+LETTER XIV.
+
+_August_ 6, 1814.
+
+Luckily we have a commodious cabin in the _Trechschuyt_, and no smoke or
+other intruders, so where I finished my last I will begin another.
+
+[Illustration: TABLE D'HOTE, AMSTERDAM.
+
+_To face page 226._]
+
+As to the country, a peep once an hour will be sufficient; I will look
+out of the window and give you the result--five plover, a few fat cows,
+a good many rushes, and a canal bridge. At Amsterdam we dined at a
+regular Dutch table d'hote; about 20 people, all of them eaters, few
+talkers; the quantity of vegetables consumed was quite surprising. With
+the last dish a boy came round with pipes and hot coals, which were soon
+followed by a tremendous explosion of Tobacco from a double line of
+smokers, and as if the simple operation of puffing in and puffing out
+was too much for these drowsy operators, many of them leaned back in
+their chairs, put their hands in their breeches pockets, shut their
+eyes, and carried on the war with one end of the pipe in their mouths
+and the other leaning on their plates. On Wednesday, Aug. 3rd, we
+crossed the Gulf by sun rise on a little tour into North Holland, to see
+the Village of Brock and Saardam, where the house in which the Czar
+Peter worked still exists. We landed at Buiksloot, from whence carriages
+are hired to different parts of the country. From Breda to Amsterdam
+they varied the Diligences according to the number of travellers;
+sometimes we had a coach and four, and then a machine and three, and as
+our number diminished we were forwarded the last stage or two in a
+vehicle perfectly nondescript with two horses; it was a sort of cart
+painted white, hung upon springs, with an awning, but it was reserved
+for this morning to see us in a carriage far beyond anything before seen
+or heard of. I am inclined to think it must have been the identical
+equipage (for it was a little the worse for wear) which the fairy
+produced from the gourd for the service of Cinderella--a sort of Phaeton
+lined with red flowered velvet, the whole moulding beautifully carved
+and gilt, the panels well painted with flowers, birds, urns, &c., the
+wheels red and gold. It contained two seats for four persons, and a
+coach box painted, carved, and gilt like the body of the carriage; the
+whole was in a Lilliput style drawn by two gigantic black horses, whose
+tails reached above the level of our heads. It was exactly suited to the
+place where we were going, the village of Brock, which, like our
+vehicle, was unlike anything I had seen before. I have, in former
+letters, talked of Dutch cleanliness and neatness, but what is all I
+have said compared with Brock? Even the people have their jokes upon its
+superiority in this particular, and assert that the inhabitants actually
+wash and scrub their wood before they put it on the fire. Lady Penrhyn's
+cottages must yield the palm, they are only internally washed and
+painted, but in Brock, Tops and bottoms, Outside and in, bricks and all,
+are constantly under the discipline of the paint brush, and as if Nature
+was not sufficiently clean in her operations, the stems of several of
+their trees were white washed too! In fact, nothing seemed to
+escape--the Milk pails were either burnished brass or painted buckets,
+and the little straw baskets the women carried in their hands came in
+for their share of blue, red, or green. They have such a dread of dirt,
+that entrance is limited to the back door only, the opening of the
+front door being reserved for grand occasions, such as weddings,
+funerals, &c. It is not accessible by carriages and horses, on account
+of several canals which intersect it; these sometimes widen, and in one
+part the houses stand round a pretty little lake. I can give you no
+better idea of the scene than a Chinese paper, whose neat summer houses
+and painted boats are all mixed together. Most houses have each a
+separate garden, kept in style equally clean. I really believe my own
+dusty shoes were the most impure things in the whole village.
+
+We returned to Buiksloot and then proceeded to Saardam, on the top of a
+Dyke, which keeps the sea from inundating the vast levels of North
+Holland. Saardam might be held up as the pattern of neatness had I not
+visited Brock first; as it is, I can only say that, though four times as
+large, it seems to be its rival in cleanliness and paint. The number of
+windmills is quite astonishing; it would require an army of Don
+Quixotes. I counted myself upwards of 130 in and close to the town; they
+say there are 1,200. Windmills seem great favourites with the Dutch. In
+the Diligence near Utrecht my neighbour roused me by a sudden
+exclamation, "Oh la vue superbe!" I looked, and beheld 14 of them in a
+Dyke! and yesterday, on asking the Laquais de place if we should see
+anything curious at Saardam besides the Czar's house, he replied, "Oh
+que, oui--beaucoup de Moulins!" Peter the Great's house is a small
+wooden cottage close to the town, remarkable for nothing but having been
+his.
+
+[Illustration: SAARDAM.
+
+_To face page 228._]
+
+Alexander had put up two little marble Tablets over the fireplace,
+commemorating his visit to the Imperial residence, on which something
+good and pointed might have been inscribed; as they are, it is merely
+stated that Alexander placed them on, and that Mrs. Von Tets Von Groudam
+stood by, delighted to see him so employed. We returned to Amsterdam by
+3 o'clock and left it at 4 for Haarlem. In Protestant countries
+Cathedrals are not always open; we found that at Haarlem open and a
+numerous congregation listening to a very respectable, venerable-looking
+preacher, whose voice and manner, style and action approached
+perfection. His eloquence, however, seemed to be in vain, for I observed
+many sleepers; and what had an odd effect, though customary in their
+country, the men with their hats on; they take them off, I believe,
+during prayers, but put them down during the sermon; we ascended the
+tower and enjoyed as extensive a view as heart could wish. The sea of
+Haarlem is an immense lake separated from the Gulf by a flood gate and
+narrow dam. The French had a block house and batteries here. In truth,
+Holland does not require above 20 guns to keep out all the enemies in
+the world. Different, indeed, are the Dutch from the French in the
+facility and liberality of access to their curiosities. It required some
+eloquence and more money to induce the key-keeper to let us go up; and
+on asking whether the Organ was to play, he assured us it was not, but
+that if we wished it, the performer would sound the notes for 16
+_shillings_; this was a gross imposition to which we were little
+inclined to submit; but luckily, as we were coming down, we heard it
+opening its great bellows and re-echoing through the body of the church.
+We almost broke our necks in running downstairs, and leaving the Dutch
+guide to take care of himself, we found our way into the Organ loft, to
+the visible annoyance of the performer, who, seeing we were strangers,
+thought himself sure of his eight florins, but his duty and the Church
+service compelled him to go on, and he shook his head and growled in
+vain at our guide, who at this time appeared, intimating that he should
+take us away, as having no business there, but in vain. I heard the
+Organ, counted the 68 stops, examined at my leisure the stupendous
+instrument, while he was under the necessity of continuing his
+involuntary voluntary, till my curiosity was satisfied. We took up our
+residence at an Hotel _in the Wood_, so-called from being the place of
+promenade and site of the new palace, but _ci-devant_ residence of Mrs.
+Hope, and, in fact, from being also a respectable wood of tolerably
+sized trees.
+
+[Illustration: PETER THE GREAT'S HOUSE, SAARDAM.
+
+_To face p. 230._]
+
+By the best chance in the world here, too, we fell in with a fete on the
+river. Some great Burgomaster had married himself, and all the world of
+Haarlem came forth in boats, decorated with colors, and bands of music
+in procession up the river to pass in review before the Princess of
+Orange, an elderly-looking woman. She sat in the window of a summer
+house overlooking the river, and the festive procession assembled before
+her. It was a lovely evening, and nothing could be more gay and
+animating than the scene. We this morning at 6 quitted Haarlem in the
+boat in which I am now writing as comfortably as in my own room, the
+motion scarcely perceptible, about 5 miles an hour; by good luck few
+passengers, and those above looking at a man who is at this incessant
+Dutch employment of painting. The boat is as clean as a china dish, but
+possibly it may not have been painted since last week. Edward has just
+daubed his hand by looking out of the window. I am rather puzzled in
+getting on here. Very little French is spoken; among the common people
+none, and we converse by signs.
+
+...Their money, too, is puzzling beyond measure. My stock consists of 5
+franc pieces (French), upon which, exclusive of their not always
+understanding what they are, there is a discount; this, of course, adds
+to the confusion, and now I despair of understanding the infinite
+variety of square, hexagon, round coins of copper and silver and base
+metal which pass through my hands.
+
+We passed two hours at Leyden as actively employed as a Foxhunter. We
+found a man who spoke French, told him our wishes, gave him a list of
+what was to be seen in the town, and then desired him to start,
+following him on the full trot up and down churches, colleges,
+Townhalls, &c. These towns are so much alike, that having seen one the
+interest is considerably lessened. Leyden, however, has the honour of
+possessing one of the finest streets in Holland; though capable of
+accommodating 65,000 souls, there are not more than 20,000, which gives
+it a melancholy appearance. In one part there is an area of about 3 or 4
+Cheshire acres planted with trees and divided with walls, which in 1807
+was covered, like the rest of the town, with good houses, but it
+happened that a barge full of gunpowder passing through the canal, blew
+up, killed 200 people, including a very clever Professor Lugai, and
+destroyed all the houses. It was a sad catastrophe, to be sure; but now,
+as it is all over, and all the good people's mourning laid aside, I
+think the Town may be congratulated as a gainer. I could fill up my
+letter with the anatomical preparations of the celebrated Albinus; but
+though I am very partial to these sights, I doubt whether you would be
+amused by a description of dried men, with their hearts, lungs, and
+brains suspended in different bottles. The town is full of booksellers'
+shops, in which capital Classics might be procured and divers others old
+books. The windows were also well filled with new works translated into
+Dutch; few, I think, original; amongst others, I saw "Ida of
+Athens!"[93] ...
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH FISHERMEN.]
+
+It is not easy to trace the sieges of Philip 2nd in these towns, as the
+fortifications are most of them extinct, fortresses of more modern
+construction being now the keys of the country. Neat villas and gardens
+by the canal side marked our approach to the seat of government--and a
+very first-rate Town the Hague is, though I cannot conceive how the
+people escape agues and colds in Autumn. Stagnant canals and pools, with
+all circulation of air checked by rows of trees, cannot be healthy.
+Unfortunately for us, Lord Clancarty is at Bruxelles with the Prince of
+Orange. The Hague appears, from what I have seen, to be a better town
+for permanent residence than Bruxelles or Antwerp. The houses are all
+good, which implies a superior quality of inhabitants. In the evening we
+took a drive to Scheveningen, a fishing village about 2 or 3 miles
+distant, through a delightful avenue. It is one of the fashionable
+resorts of the town, and is absolute perfection on a hot day, though
+pregnant with damp and dew in the evening. I told you of dog carts at
+Bruxelles, but here seems to be the region of despotic sway of the poor
+beasts. I believe that I am not wrong in stating that nearly all the
+fish is carried by them from Scheveningen to the Hague; and the weight
+they draw is surprising. We passed many canine equipages; in one sat a
+fisherman and his wife drawn by three dogs not much bigger than
+Pompey--he with his pipe in his mouth, she with an enormous Umbrella
+Hat, as grave as Pluto and Proserpine. I saw several nice goat gigs;
+moreover, I am determined to have one for Owen....
+
+...It is quite extraordinary with what excessive silence and gravity
+these people carry on their affairs. On returning from Scheveningen at a
+good round trot, we came in contact with another carriage. Luckily no
+other accident happened than breaking their traces and grinding their
+wheels. But though disabled by our driver, not a syllable of complaint
+or commiseration was uttered by one party or the other. Our driver
+proceeded, leaving them to take care of themselves. I observed, too,
+that in manoeuvering the Vessel in passing the Gulf yesterday, where some
+tacks were necessary, all was performed in perfect silence; no
+halloo-ing--a nod or a puff was alone sufficient....
+
+And so are we coming to the close of our Tour--our next stage will be
+Rotterdam, from whence I shall bear my own dispatches.... In the course
+of my life this last month will bear a conspicuous place from the
+interesting and delightful scenes it has afforded me. I must confess I
+left England with some waverings and misgivings; the accounts of others
+led me to expect that disappointments, difficulties, and great expense
+would be the inevitable accompaniments of my course. But in no instance
+have I been disappointed, the difficulties too trifling to deserve the
+name, the expense nothing compared with the profits derived, and I have
+seen enough of men and manners, of things animate and inanimate, to make
+me quite at home in some of the great scenes which have just been
+performed....
+
+[Illustration: DUTCH CARRIAGE.]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI
+
+THE WATERLOO YEAR
+
+Lord Sheffield's forebodings--Talleyrand and the Senate--Vagabond
+Royalty--Mr. North and Napoleon--The rout of the Bourbon
+Government.
+
+
+1814-1816.
+
+The two years which intervened between Edward Stanley's second and third
+visits to France saw the Empire regained and lost by Napoleon, and the
+French Crown lost and regained by Louis XVIII.
+
+In spite of the rose-coloured description of the comforts and pleasures
+of his journey with which the correspondence of 1814 closes, neither the
+Rector nor his brother found it possible to travel on the Continent in
+1815, which Lady Maria had foretold would be "a much more favourable
+time."
+
+Such hopes must soon have been dashed by the proceedings of the Congress
+of Vienna, which, as was said, "danse mais n'avance pas," and gloomy
+forebodings are shewn in two letters from Lord Sheffield to his
+son-in-law, which were received at Alderley in the autumn of 1814 and
+the spring of 1815.
+
+The first gives Lord Sheffield's view of the situation, and the second
+describes Napoleon's own remarks upon it to Lord Sheffield's nephew, Mr.
+Frederick Douglas.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley_.
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _October 30, 1814_.
+
+It is time I should provoke some symptom of your existence. I have no
+letters from Frederick North,[94] but I can acquaint you that we had
+himself here, which is still better, and that he has been infinitely
+entertaining, after three or four months' tour on the Continent, from
+whence he arrived about three weeks ago, and where he proposes to return
+next week, to pass the winter at Nice with the Glenbervies and Lady
+Charlotte Lindsay, who are gone there, and, I might add, with many other
+English families. I begin to think I shall have more acquaintances on
+the Continent than in England; the migration there is beyond
+calculation.
+
+The present is an anxious period. Perhaps there isn't in the History of
+the world a more complete instance of political imbecility than was
+exhibited in the late Peace at Paris, especially in the Allies not
+availing themselves of the very extraordinary opportunity of securing
+the tranquillity of Europe for a long time.
+
+I conceive that the most selfish ambition will not have been more
+hurtful than liberality run mad. And as I am not without apprehension of
+that fanaticism, which for some time has interfered even with
+Parliament, and to which there has been too much concession, I incline
+to the opinion that enthusiasm, as fanaticism, is generally more hurtful
+to society than scepticism. The fanatic measures are evidently
+systematic and combined.
+
+Everybody now looks eagerly towards the Congress of Vienna. Talleyrand
+displays the cloven foot, by refusing to recognise the junction of all
+the Netherlands. However, the Bourbons, France, and all Europe may be
+thankful to Talleyrand.
+
+You have often heard of Barthelemy.[95] His brother, a banker at Paris,
+first moved in the Senate the decheance of the Buonaparte family.
+Alexander was treating respecting a Regency. The King of Prussia did not
+attempt to take a lead, but was well disposed to put down the dynasty.
+The Emperor of Austria had always declared that he would treat with
+Buonaparte for Peace, under restrictions, still co-operating with the
+Allies.
+
+While matters were in this state Talleyrand took the opportunity of
+sending a message to the Senate, saying that the family was deposed, and
+by this step decided the business.
+
+Buonaparte never showed a disposition to treat and to agree to terms;
+but when he had seemingly agreed, he denied or broke off the next day.
+The failure or desertion of the Marshals completed his overthrow.
+
+It is surprising that he did not attempt to join Augereau's Army,[96]
+and retire into Italy, where he had forty thousand very good troops. At
+all events we must rest upon the pinnacle of glory and honour, although
+we have not secured a permanency of them. By premature concession we
+have yielded the means of securing the advantages we had gained.
+
+The affair at Lake Champlain[97] has been most unlucky, as it will
+encourage the Yankies, under the present inveterate and execrable
+Government, to persevere in a ruinous warfare--ruinous to the American
+States, and galling to this country, liable to be distracted by the
+efforts of an interested and mischievous faction, which, through lack of
+firmness in Government, often paralyses measures of the utmost
+consequence.
+
+I have seen several letters from Madrid, and I have one from thence now
+before me of the 3rd inst.
+
+A degree of infatuation prevails there which you could hardly conceive
+possible. The account comes from a very respectable and rational
+quarter. The most respectable characters are most violently persecuted,
+and the persons arraigned are confined in dungeons, no communication
+permitted; and persons convicted of the most atrocious acts are not even
+in disgrace.
+
+While officers and soldiers invalided by wounds are starving, the
+King[98] is profuse to persons of no merit, and has given a pension of
+1,000 dollars to a young lady who sang before him, &c., &c.
+
+The Spanish Funds, which on the King's arrival were at 85, are now at
+50. The Revenue is less than 20 millions of Dollars, the expenditure
+nearly 50.
+
+Spain is likely to be in as bad a state as ever, excepting the presence
+of a French Army; consequently I conceive their Transatlantic Dominions
+will be lost to them.
+
+Nothing, however, could be more favourable to our Commerce than their
+emancipation. Such an event, and a proper Boundary between us and the
+American States, would be the most favourable result of the war to this
+country.
+
+There is an uncommonly good Pamphlet published on this subject entitled
+"A completed View of the points to be discussed in treating with the
+American States." I cannot do less than admire it, because it seems
+taken from my shop, or at least it adopts all the principles, with a
+considerable amelioration, by taking the Line of Mountains into the
+Lakes, and all the Lakes within our Boundary.
+
+I am very much entertained with an Anecdote in a letter of the 8th inst.
+now before me, from Switzerland, which states that the Princess of Wales
+dined a few days before with the Empress Maria Louisa and the
+Archduchess Constantine,[99] at Berne, and after dinner the Empress and
+Princess sang Duets, and the Archduchess accompanied them. Two years ago
+nobody would have believed such an event possible.
+
+All this vagabond Royalty is found extremely troublesome by travellers,
+filling up all the beds, and carrying away all the horses. The above
+dinner party reminds me of Candide meeting at the Table d'Hote during
+the Carnival at Venice, with two ex-emperors, and a few ex-kings.
+
+The Princess of Wales could not be prevailed on to remain more than ten
+days at Brunswick. She left Lady Charlotte Lindsay[100] and Serinyer
+behind her, and proceeded with Lady Elizabeth Forbes to Strasburg, where
+she found Talma, the renowned Actor, and halted there ten days.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley._
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _February 1, 1815_.
+
+We are much entertained with Fred Douglas's[101] account of his visit of
+four days to the Isle of Elba.
+
+On the third evening he had an interview with Buonaparte for an hour and
+a half--the conversation very curious. He says that Buonaparte is not at
+all like any of his Prints; that he is a stout, thick-set figure, which
+makes him look short; his features rather coarse and his eyes very
+light, and particularly dull; but his mouth, when he smiles, is full of
+a very sweet, good-humoured expression; that at first he strikes you as
+being a very common-looking man, but upon observing him and conversing
+with him, you perceive that his countenance is full of deep thought and
+decision.
+
+He says he received him with much good humour, and talked to him of the
+English Constitution, with which he seemed well acquainted; said that
+France never could have the same, because it wanted one of the principal
+parts of it, "Les Nobles de Campagne." He talked also much about our
+church Laws, of which he appeared to be well informed, but said he heard
+there was much ill humour in Scotland on account of the _Union_!
+Frederick thought he meant Ireland, but found he really did mean
+Scotland, and had no idea that the Union had taken place above a hundred
+years ago.
+
+He said he did not think the Peace would last; that the French Nation
+would never submit long to give up Belgium, and that he would have
+yielded all except that; that he would have given up the Slave Trade, as
+it was a Brigandage of very little use to France. He had a most
+extraordinary idea of how it should be abolished, viz., he said he
+would allow Polygamy among the Whites in the West Indies, that they
+might inter-marry with the Blacks, and all become Brothers and Sisters.
+He said that he had consulted a Bishop upon this, who had objected to it
+as contrary to the Christian Religion.
+
+He seemed very anxious to know concerning the quarrels of the Regent and
+his wife, upon which subject F., of course, evaded giving him any
+answers. He said, "On dit qu'il aime la Mere de ce Yarmouth--mais vous
+Anglais, vous aimez les vielles Femmes," and he laughed very much. He
+avoided speaking of Maria Louisa, but spoke of Josephine with affection,
+saying, "Elle etoit une excellente Femme." He said that the motive of
+his expedition into Russia was, first, that it was necessary to lead the
+French Army somewhere, and then that he wished to establish Poland as an
+independent kingdom; for that he had always loved the Poles, and had
+many obligations to them. He talked of all his battles as you would of a
+show, saying "C'etoit un Spectacle magnifique."
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+When Napoleon had fulfilled his own prophecies of the prompt disturbance
+of the Peace of Europe by landing at Cannes, just six days from the date
+of this last letter, Lord Sheffield writes again, after war had been
+declared by the Allies.
+
+
+_Lord Sheffield to Sir John Stanley._
+
+SHEFFIELD PLACE, _March 24, 1815_.
+
+I was greatly oppressed by the first intelligence of Napoleon's
+Invasion. I was afterwards re-elevated, and now I am tumbled down again.
+
+To be sure, there never was such an execrable nation as the French. The
+much more respectable Hindoos could not more meekly submit to any
+conqueror that chooses to run through their country at the head of a set
+of miscreant soldiers. The Pretorian band that in the time of Imperial
+Rome used to dispose of Empires is perfectly re-established. Immediate
+notice was sent me from Newhaven of the Duke of Feltre's[102] (Minister
+of War) arrival there, and of poor Louis's flight from Paris.
+
+I immediately set out, with the intention of rendering service to the
+variety of wretches that were pouring in upon our coast, English and
+French, but on my way called at Stanmer, where I found that this famous
+Minister of War was gone forward to London, that the few ship-loads that
+had got over to Newhaven were disposed of, and an embargo having been
+laid on the Ports of France, of course there was nothing more to be done
+on our coast.
+
+I returned home at night, and just as I was going out of Stanmer Park I
+met the Duke of Taranto[103] entering, for whom Lord Chichester had sent
+his carriage. The Duke of Feltre brought the intelligence that the King
+was at Abbeville.
+
+I was considerably annoyed, because it seemed like inclining to England,
+and relinquishing all hopes of France. At Abbeville he certainly might
+turn off to Lisle, where I hope he is gone, and there, if there be any
+loyal Frenchmen, they may flock round his standard.
+
+All accounts, and letters, that I have seen from France agree that the
+country is almost universally against Buonaparte, and it is very clear
+all the Army is for him, and that all the Marshals adhere to Louis,
+except two. If so, and Napoleon has not the aid of his old Generals, he
+may find it difficult to manage the many Armies that he must keep on
+foot to repel the attacks that will be made on him from all sides.
+
+I cannot help thinking he is in a bad situation still. When all the
+Russians, Cossacks, Croats, Hungarians, Austrians, and all Germany
+clatter round him, and our very respectable army from the Netherlands
+advances, if he has nothing but the army in his favour, he will be
+considerably bothered, and I hope the sentimental, silly Alexander will
+never be suffered to interfere with his "beaux sentimens" in favour of
+the monster. If he should be taken and I had the command I should never
+trouble Alexander nor anybody else, but take him by the Drum head,
+giving something like the sort of trial the Duc d'Enghien had and
+immediately extinguish him by exactly the same process, ceremony, &c.,
+as he practised on the Duc d'Enghien.
+
+After all, and the worst of all, is that I apprehend we must pay the
+piper to enable the above-mentioned Hordes to take possession of France,
+and when there I flatter myself they will live upon the country. If we
+do not make some effort of the kind, all the money we have shed may be
+in a great degree thrown away. One great difficulty occurs to me, how
+will it be possible to dispose of the present French Army if it should
+be conquered, and how raise a French Army to maintain Louis's dominion?
+
+If Napoleon should be utterly extinguished, it may be possible to do
+something, but if he escapes (yet I know not where he can go) a large
+foreign Army must remain a long time in France.
+
+I must conclude by observing what a very extraordinary, strange creature
+a Frenchman is! Instead of attending the King, or suppressing Navy
+Depots where there are only fifty loyal men, the Minister of War flies
+to England, and, as he represented, in order to join the King in
+Flanders. At Paris he was certainly nearer Flanders than he was at
+Dieppe....
+
+Yours ever,
+
+SHEFFIELD.
+
+The Victory of Waterloo ended all fears of a fresh Imperial Despotism,
+and also all the hopes of those who, like Lord Sheffield and the Stanley
+family, were no great admirers of the Bourbon Dynasty.
+
+Edward Stanley's desire to revisit France was now coupled with a wish to
+realise the scene of the late Campaign, and he planned his journey so as
+to arrive there on the first anniversary of the battle, June 18, 1816.
+
+He was accompanied by Mrs. Stanley, by his brother-in-law, Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn,[104] who had travelled with him in 1814, and by their
+mutual friend, Donald Crawford.
+
+Mrs. Stanley's bright and graphic letters contribute to the story of
+their adventures, and are added to make it complete.
+
+[Illustration: _Corn Mills at Vernon, July 11 1816._
+
+_To face p. 247._]
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+AFTER WATERLOO
+
+A long Channel passage--Bruges--The battlefield--A posting
+journey--Compiegne--Paris--Michael Bruce.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+_Spring, 1816._
+
+...Edward has long talked of a week at Waterloo, and all the rest of the
+plan came tumbling after one day in talking it over with Edward
+Leycester, as naturally as possible, and I expect almost as much
+pleasure in seeing Cambridge and being introduced to the looks and
+manners at least of E. L.'s friends, and in seeing him there as in
+anything else. We are to pay a visit to Sir George and Lady Scovell at
+Cambray, and perhaps to Sheffield Place, on our return....
+
+
+ST. JOHN'S COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE,
+_June, 1816_.
+
+I am very glad to have this opportunity of seeing what a college life
+is, as well as seeing Cambridge itself and its contents animate and
+inanimate. I like both very much.
+
+We had a very pleasant journey. The road is not only prettier by
+Ashbourne and Derby, but better, and, provided your nerves can stand
+cantering down hill sometimes, you get on faster than on the other road.
+We drank tea at Nottingham on Monday and went up to the Castle.
+
+We arrived at Cambridge by 6 o'clock on Tuesday evening, and found
+Edward deep in his studies....
+
+This morning we breakfasted with George,[105] and, after seeing
+libraries and people and buildings till I am tired, here I am, snug and
+comfortable, in Edward's room....
+
+We are off to-morrow for London.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Josepha Stanley._
+
+BLENHEIM HOTEL, LONDON,
+_Saturday_.
+
+As we were coming yesterday Edward looked at the wind and decided that
+if Donald was not in the Thames then, he would have no chance of being
+here this week. We had not been here an hour when in he walked in high
+feather and gave me more reasons than I can remember for leaving his
+sisters and going with us....
+
+I have been to Waterloo[106] and in Buonaparte's carriage. He has given
+an alarm by writing to France in spite of all their precautions.... We
+have got our passports and arranged our going. Edward came back from the
+city with three plans--the steamboat, the packet, or a coach to
+ourselves to Ramsgate. We debated the three some time, at last, on the
+strength of hearing that the steamboat had been out two nights on its
+passage once, we decided on the coach, and the places were just secured
+when Mr. Foljambe came in and told us he was going to Ramsgate on
+Tuesday with some other friends of Edward's, and that it was the nicest
+vessel ever seen and more punctual than any coach, which made us all
+very angry as you may guess.... We set out to-morrow morning and get
+into the packet at Ramsgate at 7 in the evening. Let me find a nice
+folio at Paris, care of Perrigaux, Banquier, and I shall not feel your
+handwriting the least interesting thing I have to see there.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Louisa Dorothea Stanley._
+
+RAMSGATE, _June 11th_.
+
+Rapidly went the coach from Canterbury, 17 miles in an hour and a half.
+Fair blows the wind over the azure blue billow. "You will breakfast at
+Ostend," says the Captain, "to-morrow." "Oh, that Louisa were here!"
+says Donald. "She would die of delight," says Uncle, "and does not Uncle
+say true?" Conceive the view from Nottingham Castle on the evening we
+left Alderley ... a noble precipice, frowning over a magnificent plain,
+from the terraces of which we beheld immediately at our feet almost
+numberless--for I counted in a second 54--little pets of gardens, each
+adorned with a love of a summerhouse to suit; in the corners of the
+rocks many excavations and caverns fancifully cut out and carved, into
+which each of the proprietors of the above-mentioned gardens might at
+leisure retire and become his own hermit. Then how shall I touch upon
+the delights of Cambridge? How shall I speak of Edward's beauty in his
+cap, all covered with little bows, and a smart black gown? And how shall
+I speak of his dinner and his party? Such merriment! Such hospitality!
+Only think, Louisa, of dining, breakfasting and supping day after day
+with 14 or 15 most accomplished, beautiful, and entertaining young
+gentlemen! But no more, lest you expire at the thought! As for London, I
+cannot well tell you what I did or saw, such a confused multiplicity of
+sights and succession of business have seldom been experienced. At 6
+this morning we started in the stage coach, the interior of which we
+took, excluding all intruders, and from hence at 3 o'clock on a lovely
+night, with an elegant moon, we embarked for Ostend.
+
+
+(_Continued by Mrs. Stanley._)
+
+I have persuaded Uncle to carry his letter over the water that you may
+not have the anxiety of thinking for 2 days about the passage, which a
+gentleman who dined with us to-day informed us was the most precarious,
+dangerous, and uncertain known.
+
+But I consoled myself with not believing the gentleman in the first
+place, and by thinking with Aunt Clinton that as Mrs. Carleton was
+drowned so lately at Ostend, it is not likely another accident should
+happen at present.
+
+Here we are, waiting for the awful moment of embarkation, which I
+consider something like having a tooth out, but I live in hopes that,
+having been up early this morning and had 10 hours' jumbling, I may be
+sleepy enough to forget that I am on a shelf instead of a bed; so I have
+been just to admire the moon as we sail out of harbour, and then go to
+bed and find myself in sight of Ostend when I awake.
+
+
+(_E. Stanley resumes next day._)
+
+A dead calm succeeded to a gentle breeze, and on the soft, sleepy
+billows we have reposed in the Downs, rolling ever since. To comfort us
+we have a beautiful Packet and a limited number of passengers.
+
+The discomfort consists in a rapid diminution of all our provisions and
+the consequent prospect of no Tea, supper, or breakfast, or dinner
+to-morrow. One sailor said to another as he was skinning some miserable
+fish, "Aye, aye, they" (meaning the passengers) "will be glad enough of
+these in a day or two, and I was eleven days becalmed last year."
+
+Kitty, to fill up an hour of vacuity, said she would draw, and to fill
+up my time this testifies that I have been thinking of you and wishing
+for your presence, for the Novelty alone would keep you in full
+effervesence and banish all Tediosity.
+
+I have, moreover, been playing with a sweet little French dog brought by
+one of the sailors from Boulogne. The sailors have daily given him two
+glasses of gin to check his growth, and a marvellous dog of Lilliput he
+is! Pray, my dear Lou, drink no gin, for you see the consequences.
+
+I had retired to bed, when Edward Leycester called me up to admire a
+beautiful display of Neptune's fireworks; wherever the surface of the
+waves was agitated, the circles of silver flashed and the drops were
+scattered far and wide.
+
+The morning dawned upon us nearly in the same position, not a breath
+troubled the surface, smooth and still as Radnor Mere on the sweetest
+evening.
+
+Famine began to stare us in the face; our provisions were nearly
+exhausted; two or more days might elapse before we reached Ostend.
+
+We breakfasted on tea, fried skate and cheese. Breakfast at an end, it
+was proposed to board the nearest vessel and beg or borrow a dinner. In
+the tide course appeared a sail, about five miles distant.
+
+The boat was lowered, volunteers stepped forward--Uncle, Edward, Donald,
+and a gentleman-like Belgian.
+
+Away we went and by hard rowing we came alongside the strange sail in an
+hour. Three leaden figures, motionless as the unwieldly bark they
+manned, gazed curiously upon our approaching boat. Our Belgian friend
+hailed, but hailed in vain. They looked but spoke not. Again he spoke,
+and at length a monotonous "yaw" proclaimed that they were not dumb.
+
+We went on board and found a perfect Dutch family on their way from
+Antwerp to Rouen. Out stepped from her cabin the Captain's wife in
+appropriate costume, her close little cap, large gold necklace and
+ear-rings; and behind the Captain's spouse stepped forth two genuine
+descendants of the nautical couple. Large round heads with large round
+(what shall I say?) Hottentots to match and keep up the due balance
+between head and tail.
+
+Having explained our wants to the Captain, he produced as the chief
+restorative an incomparable bottle of Schiedam, _i.e._, gin. To each he
+offered a good large glass, and then in answer to our request for beef,
+four bottles of excellent claret, two square loaves. For this he asked a
+guinea, upon receiving which his features relaxed and he declared we
+should have two more bottles of claret. Upon hearing we had a lady in
+the packet he begged her acceptance of half a neat's tongue, some
+butter, and a bag of rusks. Loaded with them, we took a joyful leave of
+these sombre sailors and returned, with the orange cravat of our Belgian
+friend for a flag, in triumph to the packet.
+
+But a truce to my pen. Ostend is in sight, and now we are all rubbing
+our hands and congratulating each other that wind and tide are in our
+favour and that we shall be in in a couple of hours.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Isabella Stanley._[107]
+
+BRUGES, _June 14, 1816_.
+
+On our return from the Dutch vessel from which we recruited our
+exhausted store, we found our poor Captain in sad tribulation, his
+patience exhausted, but his temper luckily preserved. Having paced his
+deck with a fidgeting velocity a due number of times, peeped thro' his
+glass at every distant sail or cloud to observe whether they were in any
+degree movable, and invoked Boreas in the most pitiable terms such as
+"Oh Borus! Now do, good Borus just give us a blow," we had the
+satisfaction at length, the supreme satisfaction, of perceiving a gentle
+curl upon the water which soon settled into a steady breeze, before
+which we glided away, delightfully enjoying our dinner upon the deck,
+during which our party manifested their respective characters in most
+charming style. One Farmer Dinmont[108] and Dousterswivel, a Dutchman,
+were perfect specimens. A merry Belgian Equerry to the Prince of Orange,
+laughed, joked, and amused us with sleight-of-hand tricks. Our Dutch
+beef, tho' doubtless salt far beyond due proportion, was relished by
+all, Dinmont excepted, who pronounced it, together with the
+dark-coloured bread, unfit for English hogs, and shook his head with a
+most significant expression of doubt at my assertion that I never
+enjoyed a better dinner in my life. At five o'clock the low sand hills
+appeared to view in little nodules upon the horizon, and the Steeple of
+Ostend with its Lighthouse were visible from deck. At 6 we were close in
+upon land, and in half an hour were boarded by a Dutch boat, but alas!
+there was nothing in its appearance to excite curiosity, and with the
+exception of large earrings you might have fancied yourself in Holyhead
+Harbour. Four stout, tall fellows, hard and resolute in feature and
+decided in action, proclaimed their near alliance to British Jack Tars.
+They remained a little while and tried to cheat the passengers as much
+as possible, to take us on shore, but finding us determined to remain
+till the Captain could get his own boat ready, they shrugged their
+shoulders, abused us in Dutch, and sailed away. We were too many for one
+boat, so taking Kitty and the best of our English passengers and honest
+Farmer Dinmont, with all the luggage, we pushed off from the vessel.
+People of all descriptions, pilots, sailors, customs officers, soldiers,
+waiters soliciting customs for their respective turns. Porters regular
+and irregular, the latter consisting of a sort of light Infantry corps
+of ragged boys. All these people, I say, were crowded together on a
+little peninsular jetty against which our boat was shoved, and no sooner
+had the oars ceased to play and our keel cleared the sand than all these
+people set up their pipes in every dialect of every tongue, French and
+English both bad of their sort, Dutch high and low, Flemish and German.
+All burst upon us at one and the same moment, and the Cossack corps of
+ragged porters all stept forward, arm, leg and foot, to claim the honour
+of carrying up (most probably of carrying off) our baggage. By dint of
+words fair and foul, a shove here and a push there, I contrived to get
+Kitty under my arm and superintend, tho' with no small trouble and
+inconceivable watchfulness, the adjustment of our small portmanteaux,
+writing case, &c., in a wheelbarrow, which, from its formidable length
+of handle, bespoke its foreign manufacturer. On we jogged, but jogged
+not long; for before this accumulating procession could disperse we were
+arrested by a whiskered soldier, who in unintelligible terms announced
+himself a searcher of baggage. So to the custom house we went, when each
+trunk was opened and submitted to a slight inspection; the chief
+difficulty consisting in putting myself in 2 places at once--one close
+to the depot of our goods in the barrow, the other before the officer
+with the keys. Kitty was wedged in a corner with a writing case and, I
+think, Donald's sword. My English companion was equally on the alert,
+but Farmer Dinmont would have excited all your compassion, or rather
+admiration; for here amidst the din of tongues and arms, unable to move
+hand or foot, he stood with a smile of mingled resignation and wonder;
+at length, the search being concluded to the satisfaction of both
+parties, we re-commenced our course, and in a few minutes Kitty found
+herself in a new world. Women and children unlike any women and children
+you ever saw; close caps with butterfly wings for the former, little
+black skull bonnets for the latter, in shape both alike, much resembling
+those toys which, if placed on their heads, by their superior specific
+gravity and extensive sacrifice of their lower projections instantly
+revolve and settle upon their tails.
+
+"Voici, Messieurs et Madame, entrons dans la Cour Imperiale," and
+another moment hoisted us within the covered gateway of this Hotel of
+Imperial appellation. Our arrangements for sleeping and eating being
+complete, we sat down on a bench before the door to gaze, but not to be
+gazed upon, for the good people never cast an eye upon us. On retiring
+to tea, good Farmer Dinmont's countenance relaxed as he flung himself
+into a chair; he put his hands upon the table and exclaimed, "Well,
+well, here I am sitting down for the first time out of Old England!" ...
+A cup of tea, or rather a kettle full, for our salt beef had kindled an
+insatiable thirst, put him in good humour again, and, but for a sort of
+sigh or a look or a jerk which proved Old England to be uppermost in his
+thoughts, he appeared quite satisfied. With some trouble Kitty secured
+the fly cap chambermaid and had taken possession of her room; having
+seen her safe, I descended to give orders for a warming-pan, leaving her
+(after having been 2 nights in her clothes) to the luxury of an entire
+change of linen and course of ablutions. On re-crossing the court 10
+minutes afterwards I ran against a waiter running off with a
+warming-pan, glowing with red-hot embers. "Mais donc" said I, "Madame
+wants a warming-pan. Allons, where is the chambermaid to carry it?" "Oh,
+n'importe," replied this flying Mercury; "c'est moi qui fera cela pour
+la dame!" Only guess Kitty's escape! Another moment and he would have
+been in her presence, warming-pan and all. By dint of remonstrating I
+checked his course and prevailed upon the Maid to go herself with vast
+ill humour, innumerable shrugs, and some few "Mon Dieu's" and other
+suitable expressions. Kitty must herself be the interpreter of her own
+feelings in these lands of novelty. I am almost glad you were, none of
+you, here to witness what she will have such pleasure in describing. Our
+morning passed away in strolling over the town. Kitty and I dined at the
+table d'hote with about 20 people. Farmer Dinmont sent for a bottle of
+the best wine to try it and offered me a glass. I begged to propose a
+toast, "Prosperity to Old England." His features brightened up, he
+grasped the bottle, filled a bumper, and replied, "Aye, aye, with all my
+heart; that Toast I would drink in ditch water." We left Ostend at 3
+o'clock to take passage in the Bruges canal, and I do assure you we all
+felt quite sorry to leave our dear, good, honest John Bull.
+
+At Saas we fell in with a specimen of Lord Wellington's operations.
+There is a formidable battery erected last year by way of guarding
+Ostend from a "coup de main"; it is singular that the English have
+placed a Battery for the defence close to the celebrated sluice gates of
+this canal, which gates were blown up by Sir Evelyn Coote to prevent the
+French from inundating the country, when he invaded it some years
+before.
+
+Behold us seated in a spacious room, for it does not deserve the
+diminutive name of "Cabin," decorated with hangings of green cloth and
+gold border, on board a most commodious barge. Behold us on a lovely
+evening starting from the Quay with full sail and 3 horses, a man
+mounted on one and cracking a great long whip to drive on the other two,
+which trotted away abreast at the rate of 4-1/2 miles an hour. Behold us
+seated on this easy chair of Neptune! our ears deafened and our spirits
+enlivened by a band of music--trumpet, violin, and bass--admirably
+playing Waltzes and other national tunes. When they had amused us on
+deck they went below to another class of auditors. Our fellow traveller,
+Mr. Trueman, followed them, and perceiving him to be English they struck
+up "God save the King." A Frenchman called out "Ba, ba," a very
+expressive mode of communicating disapprobation, but seeing Trueman was
+of a different opinion, he ceased from his "Ba, ba," and stepping
+towards him made him a low bow. About 6 o'clock we arrived at Bruges, or
+rather to the wharf from whence passengers betake themselves and
+portmanteaux to barrows and sledges. As we approached our Band resumed
+their musical exertions. A crowd assembled to welcome our arrival, Gigs,
+coaches (such coaches!!), Horsemen (such Horsemen!!), were parading.
+Such a light with such a rainbow shone upon such an avenue and such
+picturesque gate!! Our baggage filled a car drawn by 3 stout men; and we
+all followed in the rear.... Bruges is a town affording five or six
+volumes of sketches; towers, roofs, gable ends, bridges--all in
+succession called for exclusive admiration. It was decided that we
+should rise at 4, breakfast at 6, and see all that was possible before
+9, when we were to continue our route to Ghent. At 3 o'clock I was
+prepared, but a steady rain forced me reluctantly to bed again, but we
+did breakfast at 6, and did pick up two or three sketches.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+BRUSSELS, _June 18, 1816_.
+
+
+[Illustration: FRENCH CABRIOLET.
+
+_To face p. 260._]
+
+On the 18th of June, how can I begin with any other subject than
+Waterloo?... At 8 this morning we mounted our Cabriolets for Waterloo.
+Donald put on his Waterloo medal for the first time, and a French shirt
+he got in the spoils, and a cravat of an officer who was killed, and I
+wrapped myself in his Waterloo cloak, and we all felt the additional
+sensation which the anniversary of the day produced on everybody. It
+brought the comparison of the past and present day more perfectly home.
+Donald was ready with his recollections every minute of the day, what
+had been his occupation or his feeling. The forest of Soignies is a fine
+approach to the field of battle--dark, damp, and melancholy. If you had
+heard nothing about it, you could hardly help feeling, in passing
+through it, that you would not like to cross it alone. There are no fine
+trees, but the extent and depth of wood gives it all the effect of a
+fine one, and an effect particularly suited to the associations
+connected with it. The road--a narrow pavement in the middle with black
+mud on each side--looks as if it had never felt a ray of sun, and from
+its state to-day gave me a good idea of what it must have been.
+Sometimes the road is raised thro' a deep hollow, and it was not
+possible to look down without shuddering at the idea of the horses and
+carriages and men which had been overturned one upon another; in some
+parts the trees are _a la_ Ralph Leycester, and you see the dark black
+of shade of the distant wood through them; but in other parts it is so
+choked with brushwood and inequalities of ground, that you could not see
+two yards before you, and no gorge was ever so good a cover for foxes as
+this for all evil-disposed persons. At Waterloo we stopped to see the
+Church, or rather the monuments in it, put up by the different regiments
+over their fallen officers. They are all badly designed and executed but
+one Latin one--not half so good as the epitaph on Lord Anglesey's leg
+which the man had buried with the utmost veneration in his garden and
+planted a tree over it; and he shows as a relic almost as precious as a
+Catholic bit of bone or blood, the blood upon a chair in the room when
+the leg was cut off, which he had promised my lord "_de ne jamais
+effacer_".
+
+At Mont St. Jean Donald began to know where he was. Here he found the
+well where he had got some water for his horse; here the green pond he
+had fixed upon as the last resource for his troop; here the cottage
+where he had slept on the 17th; here the breach he had made in the hedge
+for his horses to get into the field to bivouac; here the spot where he
+had fired the first gun; here the hole in which he sat for the surgeon
+to dress his wound. He had never been on the field since the day of the
+battle, and his interest in seeing it again and discovering every spot
+under its altered circumstances was fully as great as ours.
+
+After all that John Scott[109] or Walter Scott or anybody can describe
+or even draw, how much more clear and satisfactory is the conception
+which one single glance over the reality gives you in an instant, than
+any you can form from the best and most elaborate description that can
+be given! To see it in perfection would be to have an officer of every
+regiment to give you an account just of everything he saw and did on the
+particular spot where he was stationed.
+
+Donald scarcely knew as much as Edward did or as the people about of
+what passed anywhere but just at his own station. But at every place it
+was sufficient to ask the inhabitants where they were and what they
+saw, to obtain interesting information.
+
+[Illustration: Hougoumont ... June 18th
+
+_To face p. 263._]
+
+Every plan I have seen makes it much too irregular, rough ground; it is
+all undulating, smooth ups and downs, so gradual that you must look some
+time before you discover all the irregularity there is. Hougoumont[110]
+is the only interesting point, and that by having an air of peace and
+retirement about it most opposite to what took place in it.
+
+It is a respectable, picturesque farmhouse, with pretty trees and sweet
+fields all around it; the ravages are not repaired and many of the trees
+cut down. We left our carriages in the road and walked all over the
+British position, and henceforward I shall have a clearer idea, not only
+of Waterloo, but of what a military position and military plan is like.
+
+At La Belle Alliance we sat upon a bench where Lord Wellington and
+Bluecher perhaps met, and drank to their healths in Vin de Bordeaux. In
+spite of the corn, there are still bits of leather caps and bullets and
+bones scattered about in the fields, and you are pestered with children
+innumerable with relics of all sorts. We had heard magnificent accounts
+on our road here of all that was to be done on the field, balls, fetes,
+sham fights, processions, and I do not know what, but they have all
+dwindled to a dinner given here to the Belgian soldiers and a Mass to be
+said for the souls of the dead to-morrow. However, we saw what we
+wished as we wished, and the impression is perhaps clearer than if it
+had been disturbed and mixed with other sights.
+
+And now, being near 12, and I having walked about 8 miles, and been up
+since 6, must go to bed, though I feel neither sleepy nor tired.
+
+
+_To Lucy Stanley._
+
+_June 24, 1816._
+
+...Away with me to Waterloo!
+
+We arrived at Brussels on the evening of the 17th, and at seven o'clock
+started for the scene of action. From Brussels a paved road, with a
+carriage track on each side, passes for nine miles to the village of
+Waterloo.
+
+The Forest (of Soignies) is, without exception, one of the most
+cut-throat-looking spots I ever beheld, ... and for some days after the
+battle deserters and stragglers, chiefly Prussians, took up their abode
+in this appropriate place, and sallying forth, robbed, plundered, and
+often shot those who were unfortunate enough to travel alone or in small
+defenceless parties.
+
+After traversing this gloomy avenue for about four miles, the first
+symptoms of war met our eyes in the shape of a dead horse, whose ribs
+glared like a cheval-de-frise from a tumulus of mud. If the ghosts of
+the dead haunt these sepulchral groves, we must have passed through an
+army of spirits, as our driver, who had visited the scene three days
+after the battle, described the last four miles as a continued pavement
+of men and horses dying and dead.
+
+[Illustration: Interior of Hugomont June 18, 1816.
+
+_To face p. 265._]
+
+At length a dome appears at the termination of the avenue. It is the
+church of Waterloo. They were preparing for a mass and procession, and
+the houses were most of them adorned with festoons of flowers or
+branches of trees....
+
+...We turned to the right down the Nivelle road, for it was there
+Donald's gun was placed, and some labourers who were ploughing on the
+spot brought us some iron shot and fragments of shell which they had
+just turned up. The hedges were still tolerably sprinkled with bits of
+cartridge-paper, and remnants of hats, caps, straps, and shoes were
+discernible all over the plains. Hougoumont was a heap of ruins, for it
+had taken fire during the action, and presented a very perfect idea of
+the fracas which had taken place that day year. How different now! A
+large flock of sheep, with their shepherd, were browsing at the gate,
+and the larks were singing over its ruins on one of the sweetest days we
+could have chosen for the visit. As I was taking a sketch in a quiet
+corner I heard a vociferation so loud, so vehement, and so varied, that
+I really thought two or three people were quarrelling close to me. In a
+moment the vociferator (for it was but one) appeared at my elbow with an
+explosion of French oaths and gesticulations equal to any discharge of
+grape-shot on the day of attack. "Comment, Monsieur," said I, "What is
+the matter?" "Oh, les coquins! les sacres coquins" and away he went,
+abusing the coquins in so ambiguous a style that I doubted whether his
+wrath was venting against Napoleon or against his opponents. "Oui,"
+remarked I, "ils sont coquins; et Buonaparte, que pensez-vous de lui?"
+This was a sort of opening which I trusted would bring him to the point
+without a previous committal of myself. It certainly did bring him to
+the point, for he gave a bounce and a jump and his tongue came out, and
+his mouth foamed, and his eyes rolled, as with a jerk he ejaculated,
+"Napoleon! qu'est-ce que je pense de lui?" It was well for poor Napoleon
+that he was quiet and comfortable in St. Helena, for had he been at
+Hougoumont, I am perfectly convinced that my communicant would have sent
+him to moulder with his brethren in arms. Having vented his rage, I
+asked him if the French had ever got within the walls. "Yes," he said,
+"three times; but they were always repulsed"; he assured me he had been
+there during the attack and that he saw them within; but added, "How
+they came in at that door" (pointing to the gate by which we were
+standing and which was drilled with bullets), "or when they came in, or
+how or where they got out I cannot tell you, for what with the noise,
+and the fire, and the smoke, I scarcely knew where I was myself."
+
+[Illustration: LA BELLE ALLIANCE.
+
+_To face p. 267._]
+
+One of the farm servants begged me to observe the chapel, which he
+hinted had been indebted to a miracle for its safety, and certainly as a
+good Catholic he had a fair foundation for his belief, as the flames
+had merely burnt about a yard of the floor, having been checked, as he
+conceived, by the presence of the crucifix suspended over the door,
+which had received no other injury than the loss of part of its feet. He
+had remained there till morning, when, seeing the French advance and
+guessing their drift, he contrived to make good his escape, but returned
+the following day. What he then saw you may guess when I tell you that
+at the very door I stood upon a mound composed of earth and ashes upon
+which 800 bodies had been burnt. Every tree bore marks of death, and
+every ditch was one continued grave.
+
+From Hougoumont we walked to La Belle Alliance,[111] crossing the
+neutral ground between the armies; a few days ago a couple of gold
+watches had been found, and I daresay many a similar treasure yet
+remains. At La Belle Alliance, a squalid farm house, we rested to take
+some refreshment. For a few biscuits and a bottle of common wine the
+woman asked us five francs, which being paid, I followed her into the
+house. Not perceiving me at the door, she met her husband, and bursting
+into a loud laugh, with a fly-up of arms and legs (for nothing in this
+country is done without gesticulation), she exclaimed, "Only think! ces
+gens-la m'ont donne cinq francs." In this miserable pot-house did the
+possessor find 280 wounded wretches jammed together and weltering in
+blood when he returned on Monday morning. If I proceed to more
+particulars I foresee I should fill folios.
+
+I must carry you at once to La Haye Sainte.[112] It was along a hedge
+that the severest work took place; it made me shudder to think that upon
+a space of fifty square yards 4,000 bodies were found dead. The ditches
+and the field formed one great grave. The earth told in very visible
+terms what occasioned its elasticity; upon forcing a stick down and
+turning up a clod, human bodies in an offensive state of decay
+immediately presented themselves. I found four Belgian peasants
+commenting upon one figure which was scarcely interred, and on walking
+under the outer wall of La Haye Sainte a hole was tenanted by myriads of
+maggots feasting upon a corpse.
+
+Here stands the Wellington tree,[113] peppered with shot and stripped as
+high as a man can jump of its twigs and leaves, for every passenger
+jumps up for a relic. We stood upon the road where Buonaparte (defended
+by high banks) sent on, but _didn't_ lead, 6,000 of his old Imperial
+Guard. They charged along the road up to La Haye Sainte, dwindling as
+they went by the incessant fire of 80 pieces of Artillery, many of them
+within a few yards, till their number did not exceed 300. Then Napoleon
+turned round to Bertrand, lifted his hand, cried out, "C'est tout perdu,
+c'est tout fini," and galloped off with La Corte and Bertrand,[114]
+quitting most probably for ever a field of battle.
+
+A continued sheet of corn or fallowed fields occupy the whole plain. The
+crops are indifferent and the reason assigned is curious. The whole
+being trampled down last year, became the food of mice, which in
+consequence repaired thither from all quarters and increased and
+multiplied to such a degree that the soil is quite infested by them.
+
+Upon the heights where the British squares received the shock of the
+French Cavalry, we found an English officer's cocked hat, much injured
+apparently by a cannon shot, with its oilskin rotting away, and showing
+by its texture, shape, and quality that it had been manufactured by a
+fashionable hatter, and most probably graced the wearer's head in Bond
+Street and St. James's. Wherever we went we were surrounded by boys and
+beggars offering Eagles from Frenchmen's helmets, cockades, pistols,
+swords, cuirasses, and other fragments.
+
+At Brussels they gave the Belgian troops a dinner in a long, shady
+avenue, which was more than they deserved, and in the evening the Town
+was illuminated. In the Newspaper I daresay there will be a splendid
+account of it, but it was a wretched display in the proportion of one
+tallow candle to 50 windows stuck up to glimmer and go out without the
+slightest taste or regularity.
+
+From Brussels we started in a nice open Barouche Landau on Thursday, the
+20th. We again crossed the Field of Waterloo and proceeded towards
+Genappes, a road along which we jogged merrily and peaceably, but which
+had last year on this same day been one continued scene of carnage and
+confusion: Prussians cutting off French heads, arms and legs by
+hundreds; Englishmen in the rear going in chase, cheering the Prussians
+and urging them in pursuit; the French, exhausted with fatigue and
+vexation, making off in all directions with the utmost speed.
+
+At Genappes we changed horses in the very courtyard where Napoleon's
+carriage was taken ... and were shown the spot where the Brunswick
+Hussars cut down the French General as a retaliation for the life of the
+Duke. The Postmaster told us what he could, which was not much; the only
+curious part was that in his narrative he never called the Highland
+Regiments "Les Ecossais," but "Les Sans Culottes." The setting sun found
+us all covered with dust, rather tired and very hungry, and driving up,
+with some misgivings from what we had heard and from what we saw, to our
+Inn at Charleroi. "This is an abominable-looking house," said Donald.
+"Oh, jump out before we drive in and ask what we can get to eat." "Well,
+Donald, what success?" we all cried like young birds upon the return of
+the old one to the gaping, craving mouths in their nest. "The Landlady
+says she has nothing at all in the house, but if you will come in thinks
+something may be killed which will suffice for supper." This was a bad
+prospect....
+
+[Illustration: WATERLOO.
+
+_To face p. 270._]
+
+We three went on in quest of better accommodation, and drove first to
+enquire at the Post House. The first question the Postmaster asked was,
+What could induce us to come to a place from which there was no exit? We
+told him we wished to go to Maubeuge. Had you seen his shoulders elevate
+themselves above his ears. "To Maubeuge! Why, it is utterly impossible."
+"Well, then," we said, "to Mons." "Le chemin est execrable." "To
+Phillippe ville." "Encore plus mauvais." As a proof of which he told us
+that a government courier had two days before insisted upon being
+forwarded thither, that they had sent him off at 2 in the morning, to
+insure him time before daylight, that at 9 in the morning he was brought
+back, having proceeded with the utmost difficulty 2 leagues, and then
+being deposited in a rut by the fracture of his carriage. After a great
+deal of pro and con it was agreed that with more horses and great
+caution and stock of patience the road to Mons should be attempted, and
+we were directed to "Le Grand Monarque," a good name for these times,
+applicable to Buonaparte or Louis XVIII.
+
+It was worth while to lose our way and encounter these unexpected
+difficulties for the amusement the landlady afforded us. We seemed
+almost at the end of the world. I am sure we felt so, for the people
+were so odd. Dinner she promised, and in half an hour proved by a
+procession of half a dozen capital dishes how wonderfully these people
+understand the art of cookery, in a place which in England would be
+considered upon a par with the "Eagle and Child."[115] We asked her
+about the road in hopes of hearing a more satisfactory account. With a
+nod and a shrug, and an enlargement of the mouth and projection of lip,
+she replied, "Messieurs, je ne voudrais pas etre un oiseau de mauvais
+augure, mais, pour les chemins il faut avouer qu'ils sont effroyables."
+
+I will venture to say such a "oiseau" as our speaker has never before
+been seen or heard of by any naturalist or ornithologist. Her figure and
+cloak were both inimitable. She gave such a tragi-comic account of her
+sufferings last year, during the time of the retreat, and in 1814 when
+the Russians were there, that while she laughed with one eye and cried
+with the other, we were almost inclined to do the same. She had been
+pillaged by a French officer in a manner which surpassed any idea we
+could have formed of French oppression and barbarity. At one time the
+Cossacks caught her, and on some dispute about a horse, 4 of them took
+her each by an arm and leg and laying her upon her "Ventre" flat as a
+pancake, a fifth cracked his knout (whip) most fearfully over her head,
+and prepared himself to apply the said whip upon our poor landlady. By
+good fortune an officer rescued her from their clutches, but she
+shivered like a jelly when she described her feelings in her awkward
+position, like a boat upon the shore bottom upwards. Then she told us
+how her husband died of fright, or something very near it. Her account
+of him was capital, "Il etoit," said she, "un bon papa du temps passe,"
+by which perhaps you may imagine she was young and handsome. She was
+very old and as ugly as Hecate.
+
+Well, my sheet is at an end, and my hand quite knocked up. We did get to
+Mons, but the roads were "effroyable." At one moment (luckily we were
+not in it) the carriage stuck in the mud and paused. "Shall I go? or
+shall I not go?" Luckily it preferred the latter, and returned to its
+position on 4 wheels instead of 2.
+
+E. STANLEY.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria Stanley._
+
+And now to return to what pleased me first: Bruges--where I first felt
+myself completely out of England. The buildings were so entirely unlike
+any I have seen before that I could have fancied myself rather walking
+amongst pictures than houses. The winding streets are so interesting
+when you do not know what new sight a new turn will present; especially
+when, as in this case, the new sight was so satisfactory every time.
+Ghent is a much finer town but not near so picturesque; but we were
+fortunate in falling in here with a fine Catholic procession. We went to
+the top of the Cathedral, and as we were coming down the great bell
+tolled and announced the procession had begun. We almost broke our necks
+in our hurry to get a peep, and we did arrive at a loop-hole in time to
+see the whole mass of priests and procession in slow motion down the
+great aisle and to hear their chant. It was very fine indeed, tho' to
+our heretical feelings the interest lies as much in the romantic
+associations connected with all the Roman Catholic ceremonies as in
+anything better. It is not in human nature not to feel more devotion in
+the imposing solemnity of such a church. The "Descents from the Cross"
+were just put up, and with the organ playing and mass going on, and the
+number of female figures with their black scarfs over their heads
+kneeling on chairs in different parts of the Cathedral, we saw them to
+greater advantage than surrounded by French bonnets and other pictures
+in the Louvre. They are quite different to any Rubens I ever saw before;
+the colouring so much deeper and the figures so superior.
+
+But no one should be allowed to enter that Cathedral without the black
+scarf, which makes a young face look pretty and an old one picturesque;
+and there were several common people gazing at the picture with as much
+admiration and adoration painted on their faces as there probably was
+on ours.
+
+[Illustration: _Church of St. Nicholas, Ghent June 16, 1816._
+
+_To face p. 274._]
+
+At Brussels there were more pictures from the Louvre, but the Brutes had
+packed up the Rubens without any covering or precaution whatever, and
+there they are with a hole thro' one, and the other covered with mildew
+and stains from rain and dirt. From Ghent we travelled in two cabriolets
+to Brussels, which were not quite so easy or pleasant as the Canal
+boats; but the accommodations as far as Brussels have been really
+_superbe_. I have longed for the papers or the carpets or the marble
+tables in every room we have been in; and I have learned to consider
+dinner as a matter of great curiosity and importance, and I cannot
+wonder that Englishmen are not proof against the temptations of living
+well and so cheap. Brussels is a nice place; there appear to be so many
+pleasant walks and rides in all directions. The country about is so
+pretty, and the town (with the exception of the steep hill which you
+must ascend to get to the best part of it) very cheerful and agreeable
+looking.... Every place swarms with English; we have met four times as
+many English carriages and travellers as we did on our road to London.
+
+Our weather has been very favourable. We had a cool day for walking
+about at Waterloo, and the next day a delightful bright sunshine to show
+off the Palace of Laeken to advantage. It is the place where Bonaparte
+intended to sleep on the 18th, and he fitted it up. It is three miles
+from Brussels, commanding a view of the whole country and surrounded by
+trees and pleasure-grounds in the English style. After looking at
+buildings and towns so much, it was an agreeable relief to admire shady
+walks and fine trees. We went to the Theatre, which was execrable, but
+at Ghent we were very much amused with some incomparable acting.
+
+We left Brussels yesterday morning in a Barouche and _three_, which is
+to take us to Paris. It holds us four in the inside and John on the box
+as nicely as we could wish and is perfectly easy. We suit each other as
+well in other respects as in the carriage. Donald is an excellent
+_compagnon de voyage_--full of liveliness, good humour, and curiosity,
+enjoying everything in the right way. He and Edward Leycester are my
+beaux, while E.S. does the business; which makes it much pleasanter to
+me than if I had only one gentleman with me. In short, we had not a
+difficulty till yesterday. We came by Waterloo again and picked up
+Lacoite to get what we could from him, and then to Charleroi, being told
+the road by Nivelles was impassable. The road to Charleroi was bad, and
+we did not arrive till 9, having had no eatable but biscuit and wine.
+Donald entered the hotel to enquire what we could have for dinner, and
+returned with the melancholy report that the woman had literally
+nothing, and did not know where any were to be procured, but that she
+would kill a hen and dress it if we liked! We sent Donald and Edward, as
+a forlorn hope, to see if there was another inn, and after a long
+search they found one, whereupon the postillion found out that he had
+no drag-chain and could not properly descend the _montagne._ However,
+after some arguments, and my descent from the carriage, and Donald and
+John walking on each side the wheels with large stones ready to place
+before them in case they were disposed to run too fast, we arrived at
+the Inn at the foot of the Hill, from which issued an old woman who
+might have sat for Gil Blas' or Caleb Williams' old woman. When she
+heard where we were going, she shook her head and said she did not like
+to be _un oiseau de mauvais augure_ but that the only road we could go
+was very nearly impassable. The people and the children in the street
+crowded round the carriage as if they had never seen one before, and, in
+short, we found that we had got into a _cul-de-sac._
+
+[Illustration: PORTE DE HALLE, BRUSSELS, LEADING TO WATERLOO.
+
+_To face page 278._]
+
+However, our adventures for the night finished by the old woman giving
+us so good a dinner and so many good stories of herself and the
+Cossacks, that we did not regret having been round, especially now when
+we are safely landed at Valenciennes without either carriage or bones
+broke--over certainly the very worst road I ever saw.
+
+We shall be at Paris on Monday or Tuesday, I think. Adieu.
+
+
+_Rev. E. Stanley to his niece, Rianette Stanley._
+
+...Before leaving Brussels for ever, it is impossible not to speak about
+the dogs. What would you say, what would you think, and how would you
+laugh at some of these wondrous equipages. You meet them in all
+directions carrying every species of load. They were only surpassed by
+one vehicle we met on the road drawn by nine, and as luck would have it,
+just as we passed, the five leaders fell to fighting and ran their
+carriage over some high stones. Then the women within began to scream
+and the driver without began to whip, which caused an inevitable scene
+of bustle and perplexity....
+
+At Quiverain we passed the line of separation between France and Belgium
+and were subjected to a close inspection by the Custom House Officers,
+during which some Bandana handkerchiefs of Edward's were for a time in
+great jeopardy, but they were finally returned and "nous voila" in "la
+belle France." The change was perceptible in more ways than one. Before
+we had travelled a mile we beheld a proof of this subjugated state in
+the person of a Cossack "en plein costume," with two narrow, horizontal
+eyes placed at the top of his forehead, bespeaking his Tartar origin.
+Upon a log of timber twenty more were sitting smoking. The Russian
+headquarters are at Maubeuge, but the Cossacks are scattered all over
+the frontier villages and are seen everywhere. We fell in with at least
+a hundred. They are very quiet and much liked by the people. The Duke of
+Wellington, when returning to Valenciennes a few days ago from Maubeuge,
+was escorted by a party of these gipsy guards.
+
+On approaching Valenciennes other tokens of conquest appeared. A
+clean-looking inn, with a smart garden in Islington style, presented
+itself, bearing a sign with an English name containing the additional
+intelligence that London Porter and Rum, Gin, and Brandy were all there,
+and to be had.
+
+Over many a window we saw a good John Bull board with "Spirituous
+Liquors Sold Here" inscribed thereon in broad British characters, unlike
+the "Spiritual Lickers" in the miserable letters upon the signboards at
+Ostend. As to Valenciennes, nothing was French but the houses and Inns.
+The visible population were red-coated soldiers, and it was impossible
+not to fancy that our journey was a dream, and that we had in fact
+re-opened our eyes in England.
+
+Of hornworks, demi-lunes, and ravelines I shall speak to your Papa when
+I fight my battle once again in the Armchair at the Park or at
+Winnington; enough for you to know that we all breakfasted with Sir
+Thomas Brisbane, a very superior man and a great astronomer, and tho'
+brave as a lion, seems to prefer looking at la Pleine lune in the
+heavens than the host of demi-lunes with which he is surrounded in his
+present quarters. At Cambray Sir George Scovell[116] had most kindly
+secured us lodgings at Sir Lowry Cole's[117] house, which we had all to
+ourselves, as the General was in England. Where the French people live
+it is not easy to guess, for all the best houses are taken by British
+Officers. They receive a billet which entitles them to certain rooms,
+and generally they induce the possessor to decamp altogether by giving
+him a small rent for the remainder. We found Colonel Egerton, who
+married a Miss Tomkinson, in the garrison. We dined with them and the
+Scovell, and were received with the utmost kindness and attention by
+all. Colonel Prince and Colonel Abercromby (you know both, I believe)
+also dined there two days we remained.
+
+On Sunday there was a Procession. The most curious circumstance was that
+a troop of British cavalry attended to clear the way and do the honours,
+for the National Guard had been disarmed three days before in
+consequence of an order from the Duke of Wellington (nobody knows why).
+They gave up their arms without a murmur; some few, I believe, expressed
+by a "Bah!" and a shrug of the shoulders that it was not quite agreeable
+to their feelings, but "voila tout." "I say, Jack," said a Grenadier of
+the Guards to his Companion, by whom I was standing as the procession
+came out of the Church, "who is that fellow with a gold coat and
+gridiron?" "Why, that's St. Lawrence," and so it was.
+
+St. Lawrence led the way, followed by a brass St. Andrew as stiff as a
+poker and as much resembling St. Andrew as I conceive; but my companion
+the Grenadier thought differently, for he pronounced him to be a Chef
+d'oeuvre. "Well now, Jack, that's quite natural." ...
+
+I must hurry you on to Compiegne, merely saying that we traversed a
+country fringed with immense forests in which wolves are born and live
+and die without much interruption, tho' we were told at one of the Inns
+that a peasant had, a day or two before, captured seven juvenile
+individuals of the species and carried them off uneaten by their
+disconsolate parents.
+
+Our chief reason for visiting Compiegne was that we might see a Palace
+fitted up for Marie Louise by Bonaparte in a style of splendour
+surpassing, in my opinion, any Palace I have seen in France.
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+PARIS, _June 28, 1816_.
+
+And here I am--and what shall I tell you first? And how shall I find
+time to tell you anything in the wandering Arab kind of life we are
+leading? It is very new and very amusing and I enjoy it very much, but I
+enjoy still more the thoughts of how much I shall enjoy my own quiet
+home and children again when I get to them.
+
+We arrived on Tuesday evening, and in half an hour I was in the Palais
+Royal in the Cafe de Mille Colonnes, and at night the brilliancy of the
+Lamps and Mirrors, glittering in every direction in every alley,
+displayed this new scene to me in the newest colours; and it was very
+like walking in a new world....
+
+The Fetes for the marriage of the Due de Berri are unfortunately all
+over. Except the entertainments at the Court itself, a French party is a
+thing unheard of, and the only gaieties have been English parties to
+which some few French come when they are invited. The only gentlemen's
+carriages I have seen in the streets are English, and as to French
+gentlemen or ladies, according to the most diligent enquiries by eyes
+and tongue, the race has almost disappeared....
+
+If you admire Buonaparte and despise the Bourbons in Cheshire, what
+would you in Paris? where the regular answer to everything you admire is
+that it was done by Buonaparte--to everything that you object to, that
+it is by order of the Bourbons. In the Library of the Hopital des
+Invalides to-day, collected by order of Buonaparte for the use of the
+soldiers, there was a man pulling down all the books and stamping over
+the N's and eagles on the title-page with blue ink, which, if it did not
+make a plain L, at least blotted out the N; but I should apprehend that
+every one who saw the blot would think more of the vain endeavour of
+Louis to take his place than if the N had been left.
+
+...I have told you nothing about Valenciennes and how we breakfasted
+with two odd characters to come together in one, an Astronomer and a
+Soldier, viz., Sir Thomas Brisbane, who enlivens his quarters wherever
+he goes by erecting an observatory immediately, and studying hard as any
+Cambridge mathematician every hour that he is not on military duty. His
+officers seem to have partaken in some degree of the spirit of their
+General, and to have made use of their position at Valenciennes to make
+themselves perfectly acquainted with all Marlborough's campaign, and
+they appeared to have as much interest in tracing all his sieges and
+breaches and batteries as their General in making his observations on
+the sun and the stars.... The Scovells were delighted to see us at
+Cambray; put us into Sir Lowry Cole's quarters, where we had a house and
+gardens all to ourselves. Lord Wellington had been at Cambray a
+fortnight before, and was all affability, good humour, and gaiety....
+Sir Geo. Scovell gave many interesting details of his coolness,
+quickness, decision, and undaunted spirit.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Bella Stanley._
+
+PARIS, _July 9, 1816_.
+
+It is absolutely necessary that a word or two should be said upon the
+palace at Compiegne, which was fitted up about seven years ago by
+Napoleon for Marie Louise. Having seen most of his Imperial abodes, I am
+inclined to give the preference, as far as internal decoration extends,
+to Compiegne. Gold, silver, mirrors, tapestry all hold their court
+here. The bath is a perfect specimen of French luxury and magnificence.
+It fills a recess in a moderately-sized room almost entirely panelled
+with the finest sheets of plate glass; and the ball room is so
+exquisitely beautiful that to see its golden walls and ceilings lighted
+up with splendid chandeliers, and its floors graced with dancers, plumed
+and jewelled, I would take the trouble of attending as your Chaperon
+from Alderley whenever the Bourbons send you an invitation.
+
+The gardens are like all other French pleasure grounds, formal and
+comfortless, but there is one part you would all enjoy. When Buonaparte
+first carried Marie Louise to Compiegne she expressed much satisfaction,
+but remarked that it was deficient in a Berceau; it could not stand in
+competition with her favourite palace of Schoenbrunn. Now, a berceau is a
+wide walk covered with trellis work and flowers. She left Compiegne. In
+six weeks Napoleon begged her to pay another visit. She did so, and
+found a berceau wide enough for two carriages to go abreast and above
+two miles in length, extending from the gardens to the forest of
+Compiegne, completely finished. May you all be espoused to husbands who
+will execute all your whims and fancies with equal rapidity and good
+taste! In your berceau I will walk; but if you are destined to reside in
+golden palaces, you must expect little of Uncle's company.
+
+Having travelled thus far, attend us to Paris and imagine yourself
+seated in a velvet chair in the Hotel de Bretagne, Rue de Richelieu,
+that is to say, when translated into London terms, conceive yourself
+seated in one of the Hotels in or near Covent Gardens, close to Theatre
+and shops and all that a stranger wishes to be near for a week when the
+sole purpose of his visit is seeing and hearing. We are within 20 yards
+(but if measured by the mud and filth to be traversed in the march I
+should call it a mile) of the Palais Royal, the fairy land of Paris, and
+Paradise of vice, and the centre of attraction to every stranger. Here
+we breakfast in Coffee-houses, of which no idea can be formed by those
+who only associate the name of Coffee-house with certain subdivided,
+gloomy apartments in England, where steaks and _Morning Chronicles_
+reign with divided sway, and where the silence is seldom interrupted but
+by queries as to the price of stocks or "Here, Waiter, another bottle of
+Port."
+
+We dine at Restaurateurs, choosing unknown dishes out of five
+closely-printed columns of _fricandeaus_ and _a la financieres_.
+
+Before I proceed let me inform you of some simple matters of fact which
+I may forget if delayed. Such as that we found the Sothebys and Murrays,
+and Leghs of High Legh, and Wilbraham of Delamere Lodge. With the former
+we have made several joint excursions and contrived to meet at dinner.
+Mr. Sotheby is in his element, bustles everywhere, looks the vignette of
+happiness, exclaims "Good!" upon all occasions, from the arrangement of
+the Skulls in the Catacombs to the dressing of a _vol au vent_. In
+short, they are all as delighted as myself, and that is saying a good
+deal.
+
+Pardon this digression. Again to the point--to Paris. Where shall I
+begin? Let us take the theatres. We saw Talma last night, and the
+impression is strong, therefore he shall appear first on the list.
+
+The play was "Manlius," a tragedy in many respects like our "Venice
+Preserved." The House was crowded to excess, especially the pit, which,
+as in England, is the focus of criticisms and vent for public opinion.
+
+When a Tragedy is acted no Music whatever is allowed, not a fiddle
+prefaced the performance; but at seven o'clock the curtain slowly rose,
+and amidst the thunder of applause, succeeded by a breathless silence,
+Talma stepped forth in the Roman toga of Manlius. His figure is bad,
+short, and rather clumsy, his countenance deficient in dignity and
+natural expression, but with all these deductions he shines like a
+meteor when compared with Kemble. He is body and soul, finger and thumb,
+head and foot, involved in his character; and so, say you, is Miss
+O'Neil, but Talma and Miss O'Neil are different and distant as the
+poles. She is nature, he is art, but it is the perfection of art, and so
+splendid a specimen well deserves the approbation he so profusely
+receives.
+
+The curtain is not let down between the acts, and the interval does not
+exceed two or three minutes, so that your attention is never
+interrupted. The scene closed as it commenced--with that peculiar hurra
+of the French, expressive of their highest excitement. It is the same
+with which they make their charge in battle, and proportioned to numbers
+it could not have been more vehement at the victories of Austerlitz and
+Jena than it was on the reappearance of Talma; and not satisfied with
+this, they insisted on his coming forth again. At length, amidst hurras
+and cries of "Talma! Talma!" the curtain was closed up, and my last
+impression rendered unfavourable by a vulgar, graceless figure in
+nankeen breeches and top-boots hurrying in from a side scene, dropping a
+swing bow in the centre of the stage, and then hurrying out again.
+
+Theatres are to Frenchmen what flowers are to bees: they live _in_ them
+and _upon_ them, and the sacrifice of liberty appears to be a tribute
+most willingly paid for the gratification they receive; for, to be sure,
+never can there exist a more despotic, arbitrary government than that of
+a French theatre. A soldier stands by from the moment you quit your
+carriage till you get into it; you are allowed no will of your own; if
+you wish to give directions to your servant, "Vite! Vite!" cries a
+whiskered sentry. Are you looking through the windows of the lobbies
+into the boxes for your party, you are ordered off by a gendarme. I saw
+one gentleman-like-looking man remonstrating; in a trice he was in
+durance vile. A Frenchman at his play must sit, stand, move, think, and
+speak as if he were on drill, and yet he endures the intolerance for
+doubtful benefits derived from this rigid regularity.
+
+In this play of "Manlius" were many passages highly applicable to
+Buonaparte, and Talma, who is supposed to be (_avec raison_) a secret
+partisan, gave them their full effect, but the listening vassals struck
+no octaves to his vibration. A few nights before we were at the Play in
+which were allusions to the Bourbons, and couplets without end of the
+most fulsome, disgusting compliments to the Duc de Berri, &c. These
+(shame upon the trifling, vacillating, mutable crew!) were received with
+loud applause by the majority of the pit. I did observe, however, that
+in that pit did sit a frowning, solemn, silent nucleus, but a nucleus of
+this description can never be large; a few Messieurs at 3 francs _par
+jour_ would soon, when dispersed amongst them, like grains of pepper in
+tasteless soup, diffuse a tone of palatibility over the whole and render
+it more agreeable to the taste of a Bourbon.
+
+_A propos_, we have seen the Bourbons. The King is a round, fat man, so
+fat that in their pictures they dare not give him the proper "_contour_"
+lest the police should suspect them of wishing to ridicule; but his face
+is mild and benevolent, and I verily believe his face to be a just
+reflection of his heart. Then comes Monsieur,[118] a man with more
+expression, but I did not see enough to form any opinion of my own, and
+I never heard any very decisive account from any one else. Then comes
+the Duchesse d'Angouleme.[119] There is no milk and water there. What
+she really is I may not be able to detect, but I will forfeit my little
+finger if there is not something passing strange within her. She is
+called a Bigot and a Devotee; she has seen and felt enough, and more
+than enough, to make a stronger mind than hers either the one or the
+other, and I will excuse her if she is both. She is thin and genteel,
+grave and dignified; she puts her fan to her underlip as Napoleon would
+put his finger to his forehead, or his hand into his bosom. She stood
+up, she sat down, she knelt, when others stood or sat or knelt, but I
+question whether if she had been alone she would have done all according
+to bell and candle, rule or regulation.
+
+Then comes the Duchesse de Berri,[120] a young, pretty thing, a sort of
+royal kitten; and then comes her husband, the Duc de Berri, a short,
+vulgar-looking, anything but a kitten he is--but _arrete toi_. I am in
+the land of vigilance, and already my pen trembles, for there are
+gendarmes in abundance in the streets, and Messieurs Bruce and Co. in La
+Force, and I do not wish to join their party. In England I may abuse our
+Prince Regent and call him fat, dissipated, and extravagant, but in
+France I dare not say "BO to a goose!" So, Je vous salue, M. le Duc de
+Berri.
+
+_A propos_ of the police. At the marriage of the above much honoured and
+respected Duc the illumiations were general. Murray's landlord was
+setting out his tallow candles, when Murray, guessing from certain
+innuendoes and shrugs (for before us English they are not much afraid of
+shrugging the shoulders or inventing an occasional "Bah!") that he would
+have been to the full as pleased if he had been lighting his candles
+upon the return of Napoleon, asked him, "Mais pourquoi faites vous cela?
+I suppose you may do as you like?" "Comment donc!" replied the
+astonished Frenchman; "do as I like! If I did not light my candles with
+all diligence, I should be called upon to-morrow by the police to pay a
+forfeit for not rejoicing."
+
+With all this I think on the whole the Bourbons are popular; people are
+accustomed to being bullied out of their opinions and use of their
+tongues, and they are so sick of war, with all its inconveniences and
+privations, that they begin to prefer inglorious repose. English money
+is very much approved of here, but if it could be procured without the
+personal attendance of the owners, I feel quite confident the French
+would prefer it.
+
+We are not popular. I suppose the sight of us must be grating to the
+feelings. We are like a blight on an apple-tree; we curl up their
+leaves, and they writhe under our pressure.
+
+The constant song of our drunken soldiers on the Boulevards commenced
+with--
+
+    "Louis Dixhuite, Louis dixhuite,
+     We have licked all your armies and sunk all your fleet."
+
+Luckily the words are not intelligible to the gaping Parisians, who
+generally, upon hearing the "Louis Dixhuite," took for granted the song
+was an ode in honour of the Bourbons, and grinned approbation. It is
+quite ridiculous, Paris cannot know itself. Where are the French?
+Nowhere. All is English; English carriages fill the streets, no other
+genteel Equipages are to be seen. At the Play Boxes are all English. At
+the Hotels, Restaurations--in short, everywhere--John Bull stalks
+incorporate. I see an Englishman with his little red book, the Paris
+guide, in one hand and map in the other, with a parcel of ragged boys at
+his heels pestering him for money. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who am ready
+to hold your stick. "Monsieur, c'est moi," who will call your coach.
+
+About the Thuilleries, indeed, and here and there, a few "bien poudred"
+little old men, "des bons Papas du Temps passe," may be seen dry as
+Mummies and as shrivelled, with their ribbons and Croix St. Louis,
+tottering about. They are good, staunch Bourbons, ready, I daresay, to
+take the field "en voiture" for once, when taunted by the Imperial
+officers for being too old and decrepid to lead troops; an honest
+emigrant Marquis replied that he did not see why he should not command a
+regiment and lead it on "dans son Cabriolet."
+
+We have been unfortunate in not arriving soon enough to be present at
+the Duke of Wellington's Balls. At the last a curious circumstance took
+place. (You may rely upon it's being true.) Word was brought to him
+that the house was in danger from fire. He went down, and in a sort of
+subterranean room some cartridges were discovered close to a lamp
+containing a great quantity of oil, and it was evident they had been
+placed there with design. The first report was that barrels of gunpowder
+had been found, and strange associations were whispered as to Guy Fawkes
+and Louis XVIII. being one and the same; but the powder was not
+sufficient to do any great mischief, and the general idea is that had it
+exploded, confusion would have ensued, the company would have been
+alarmed, the ladies would have screamed and fled to the door and street,
+where parties were in full readiness and expectations of Diamonds,
+&c....
+
+We stay over Monday, for there is a grand Review on the Boulevards. We
+have seen Cuirassiers and Lancers shining in the sun and fluttering
+their little banner in the air. The Bourbons, who are determined to root
+out every vestige of the past, are now stripping the Troops of the
+Uniform which remind the wearers of battles fought and cities won, and
+re-clothing them in the white dress of the "ancien Regime," which is
+wretchedly ugly. They know best what they are about, and they certainly
+have a people to deal with unlike the rest of the world, but were I a
+Bourbon, I should be cautious how I proceeded in demolishing everything
+which reminded the people of their recent glory. Luckily the column on
+the Place Vendome has as yet escaped the Goths, and its bronze basso
+reliefs are still the pride of Paris.
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley._
+
+_July 13, 1816._
+
+Days in Paris are like lumps of barley sugar, sweet to the taste and
+melting rapidly away.... We have now seen theatres, shows, gardens,
+museums, palaces, and prisons. Aye, Louisa, we have been immured within
+the walls of La Force, and that from inclination! not necessity.
+
+We procured an order to see Bruce,[121] and after some shuttlecock sort
+of work, sending and being sent from office to office and Prefet to
+Prefet, at length we received our order of admission.
+
+In this order our persons are described; the man put me down "sourcils
+gris." "Mais, Monsieur," said I, "they will never admit me with that
+account." He looked at me again, "Ah! vos cheveux sont gris, mais pour
+les sourcils, non pas, vous avez raison," and altering them to "noirs,"
+he sent me about my business.
+
+Bar and bolt were opened, and at length we found ourselves in the
+presence of these popular prisoners--Popular, at least, amongst the
+female part of the world. I have reason to believe that a few of the
+Miss Stanleys had formed a romantic attachment for Michael Bruce, and
+there are few of our adventures which would, I think, have given you
+more pleasure than this visit. Your heart would have been torn from its
+little resting-place and been imprisoned for ever. Michael Bruce! such
+an eye! such a figure! such a countenance! such a voice! and so much
+sense and elegance of manner, and then so interesting! There he sat in a
+small, wretched room, dirty and felonious, with two little windows, one
+looking into a court where a parcel of ragged prisoners were playing at
+fives, the other into a sort of garden where others were loitering away
+their listless vacuity of time.
+
+I will not tell you what he said, for it would but inflame a wound which
+I cannot heal, and because part of his conversation was secret, _i.e._,
+of a very interesting and curious nature which I cannot write and must
+not speak of. "Oh! dear Uncle, why won't you tell? a secret from Michael
+Bruce in the prison of La Force!"
+
+No, Louisa, I dare not speak of it to the winds. Captain Hutchinson was
+his companion, Sir Robert Wilson is in another room. The Captain has
+nothing very interesting in his manner or appearance. He is very plain,
+very positive, and very angry. Well he may be. So would you if, like
+him, you had been immured in a room about eight feet by twelve, in which
+you were forced to eat, sleep, and reside for three months. Their
+penance closes on the 24th, when Michael Bruce returns to London. I
+hope you are not going there this year.
+
+From such a subject as Michael Bruce it will not do to descend to any of
+the trifling fopperies of Paris.
+
+Let me, then, give you a short account of our visit to Fountain
+Elephant, which if ever finished, with its concomitant streets, &c.,
+will be an 8th wonder of the world. Its History is this: On the Site of
+the Bastille (of which not a vestige remains) Buonaparte thought he
+would erect a fountain, and looking at the Plans of Paris, he conceived
+the splendid idea of knocking down all the houses between the
+Thuilleries and this Fountain and forming one wide, straight street, so
+that from the Palace of the Thuilleries he might see whatever object he
+might be pleased to place at the extremity. This street is actually
+begun; when executed, which it never will be, there will be an avenue,
+partly houses, partly trees, from Barriere d'Etoile to the Fountain, at
+least six miles. Having got this Fountain in his head, he sent for De
+Non,[122] who superintended all his works, and said, "De Non, I must
+have a fountain, and the fountain shall be a beast." So De Non set his
+wits to work, and talked of Lions and Tigers, &c., when Buonaparte
+fixed upon an Elephant, with a Castle upon his back, and an Elephant
+there is. At present they have merely a model of plaister upon which the
+bronze coating is to be wrought, for the whole is to be in bronze with
+gilt trappings. He is to stand upon an elevated pedestal, which is
+already completed. The height will be about 60 feet, nearly as high as
+Alderley Steeple. The castle will hold water; the inside is to be a
+room, and the staircase is to be in one of the legs. The porter who
+showed it was exceedingly proud of the performance, and when I expressed
+my astonishment at Buonaparte's numerous plans and the difficulty he
+must have been at to procure money, looking cautiously about him, he
+said, "Oh, mais il avoit le don d'un Dieu," and then grasping my arm
+with one hand and tapping me on the shoulder with the other, and again
+looking round to see if then the coast was clear, he added, "Mais il n'y
+est plus, ah, vous comprenez cela n'est-ce pas," and then casting a look
+at his Elephant he concluded with a sigh and a mutter, "Superbe, ah,
+pardi, que c'est superbe!"
+
+Kitty has been dressing herself _a la Francaise_, and we have been
+purchasing a large box of flowers, which we hope to show you in England,
+if the Custom House officers will allow us to pay the duties, but we
+hear most alarming accounts of their ferocity and rapacity. They will
+soon, it is said, seize the very clothes you have on, if of French
+manufacture; if so, adieu to three pairs of black silk stockings and as
+many pocket handkerchiefs, to say nothing of a perfect pet of an ivory
+dog which I intend to present to your Mama, and to say nothing of five
+perfect pets for Maria and you four eldest girls of the family of
+Harlequin and Punch, to be worn on your necklaces during the happy
+weeks. They are of mother of pearl about an inch high, the most comical
+fellows I ever beheld. It is necessary that I should tell you of the
+presents, because if they are seized, you know I shall still be entitled
+to the merit of selecting them. We have bought a few books. A thick
+octavo is here worth about four or five shillings, and the duty is, we
+understand, about one shilling more. One is a life of the Duke of
+Marlborough. Buonaparte said it was a reflection upon England not to
+have a life of her greatest Hero, and therefore he would be his
+biographer; accordingly he set his men to work and collected the
+materials. Report speaks favourably of it, but I have been so busied in
+looking and walking about that I shall not be surprised if I find that I
+have almost forgotten to read upon my return!
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to Louisa Stanley._
+
+TUESDAY MORNING, _July 13th_.
+
+We are in Paris still, and do not depart till to-morrow, dedicating this
+day in company with the Murrays to St. Denis and Malmaison, and then I
+think we shall have seen everything worth seeing in or near this queer
+metropolis. One day last week we went to our old friend, L'abbe
+Sicard,[123] and attended a lecture in which about 20 of his young
+scholars exhibited their powers. The poor Abbe was, as usual, dreadfully
+prolix, and occupied an hour in words which might have been condensed
+within the compass of a Minute, and poor Massuer yawned and shut his
+eyes ever and anon. Clair was not there, and as we were under the
+necessity of going away before the Lecture was closed, we could not
+renew our acquaintance. Since last year he has taught his pupils to
+speak, and two dumb boys talked to each other with great success. I will
+show you the mode when we meet, but as you are not dumb it will be a
+mere gratification of Curiosity. Our Assignation which called us from
+the Lecture was to meet the Sothebys and Murrays and many others at the
+Buvin d'Enfer, near which is the descent to the Catacombs, where upwards
+of 3 million of Skulls are arranged in tasty grimaces thro' Streets of
+Bones, but my Sketch Book has long given an idea of these ossifatory
+Exhibitions. Only think, a cousin of Donald's and a very great friend of
+mine, a Capt. McDonald, whom you would all be in love with, he is so
+handsome and interesting, was shut up there a short time ago by
+accident, and if the Keeper had not luckily recollected the number of
+persons who descended and discovered one was missing, he would very soon
+have joined the bone party. There is another Cimetiere called that of
+Pere la Chaise, of a very different description, and infinitely more
+interesting. It is the grand burial-place of Paris; all who choose may
+purchase little plots of ground, from a square foot to an acre, for the
+deposition of themselves and their families. Its extent is about 84
+French acres, and upon no spot in the world is the French character so
+perfectly portrayed. Each individual encloses his plot and ornaments it
+as he chooses, and the variety is quite astonishing. It appears like a
+large Shop full of toys, work-baskets, Columns, little Cottages,
+pyramids, mounts--in short, what is there in the form of a Monument
+which may not there be found? A pert little Column with a fanciful top,
+crowned by a smart wire basket filled with roses, marked the grave, I
+concluded, of some beautiful young girl of 15 or 16. Lo and behold! it
+was placed there to commemorate "un ancien Magistrat de France," aged
+62. The most interesting are Ney's and Labedoyere's,[124] the former, a
+solid tomb of marble, simply tells that Marshal Ney, Prince of La
+Moskowa, is below. Both were rather profusely decorated with wreaths of
+flowers, it being the custom for the friends of the deceased to strew
+from time to time the graves with flowers, or decorate them with
+garlands. Soldiers have been often seen weeping over these graves, and
+it is by them these wreaths were placed. Ney's had just received its
+tribute of a beautiful garland of blue cornflowers: and the other a
+Chaplet of Honeysuckle. By both graves were weeping willows. Mr.
+Sotheby's friend, the poet Delille,[125] sleeps beneath a cumbrous mass
+of marble, within which his wife immerses herself once a week, to
+manifest sorrow for one whose incessant tormentor I am told she was
+during his life. The inscriptions were for the most part commonplace. I
+copied out a few of the best. I was sorry to observe not one in 20 had
+the slightest allusion to Religion. There was one offering which
+particularly attracted my attention and admiration. Over a simple mound,
+the resting-place of a little child, were scattered white flowers, and
+amongst them a bunch of cherries, evidently the tribute from some other
+little child who had thus offered up that which to him appeared most
+valuable. The exclusion of the selfish principle in this display of
+sentiment and feeling quite delighted me.
+
+[Illustration: PARISIAN RAT-CATCHER AND ITINERANT VENDORS.
+
+_To face page 300._]
+
+The day after we visited the Louvre it was closed, and none have been
+admitted since. I believe they are scratching out some N's or Eagles. I
+should conceive these to be the last of their species, for the activity
+and extent of this effacement of emblems related to Napoleon is past all
+belief. In a picture of Boulogne in the Luxembourg, amongst the figures
+in the foreground was a little Buonaparte, about two inches high,
+reviewing some troops. They have actually changed his features and
+figure, and, if I recollect rightly, altered his cockade and Uniform....
+In the Musee des Arts and Metiers are some models of ships; even these
+were obliged to strike their Lilliputian tri-colours and hoist the white
+Ensign. And now Paris, fare thee well.... Thou art a mixture of strange
+ingredients. "Oh," said the Hairdresser who was cutting Kitty's hair
+yesterday, "had we your National spirit we should be a great people,
+mais c'est l'Egoisme qui regne a Paris." Their manner is quite
+fascinating, so civil, so polished. The people are like the Town, and
+the Town is like a Frenchman's Chemise, a magnificent frill with fine
+lace and Embroidery, but the rest ragged. The frill of the Thuilleries
+and Champs Elysees are perfect fairylands, the streets all that is
+execrable. No wonder the cleaners of boots and shoes are in a state of
+perpetual requisition. In one shop I saw elevated benches, on which sat
+many gentry with their feet upon a level with the cleaners' noses, where
+they sat like Statues, and I was actually induced to go back to satisfy
+myself that they were real men. English notices are frequent in the
+streets, some not over correct in style; for example, over a
+Hairdresser's in the Palais Royal--"The Cabinet for the cut of the
+hairs."
+
+
+_Mrs. E. Stanley to Lady Maria J. Stanley._
+
+ST. GERMAIN, _July 16, 1816_.
+
+Surely you must have forgot what it is to be divided by land and sea
+from what you love, or when you were abroad you left nobody behind whom
+you cared about, or you would not fancy that I should not find time or
+inclination to read as many trifles as you can find to send, or that
+they should not give me almost as much pleasure, and be read with as
+much interest, as if I were shut up in the next dungeon to Mr. Bruce at
+La Force.... While you were enjoying the view of Beeston Castle, we were
+eating strawberries and cream under the trees in the Jardin des Plantes
+on the only hot day we have had.... I am in no danger of forgetting you,
+and if I have not written oftener, it has only been because Edward got
+the start of me in beginning to write in detail, and he is so inimitable
+in description that I could not go over the same ground with him.... I
+do wish I could give you one of our day's amusement, and jump you over
+here in mind and body to leave all your cares behind you....
+
+At last we have bid goodbye to Paris, but every day seemed to bring
+something fresh to see, and we stayed two or three days longer than we
+intended yesterday to see St. Denis. It is not so fine as most of the
+churches we saw in Holland, but the historical interest is so great and
+so curious that I would not have missed seeing it for the world. Over
+the door all the guillotined figures of the Revolution; in the church
+the repairs which were begun by Buonaparte, now finishing by Louis;
+every stone and step you go marked by some association of one or other
+of these periods. As Buonaparte's own power increased, his respect for
+crowned heads and authorities increased, I suppose, and so he had put up
+_Fleurs de Lys_ himself for the Bourbons in one part of the church, and
+he had prepared a vault for himself, decorated above with bees and
+statues of the six Kings of France who had the title of Emperor. To this
+vault he had made two bronze doors with gold ornaments and gold lions'
+heads, one of which flew back with a spring, and discovered three
+keyholes, to which there were three golden keys. The Sacristy he filled
+with chef d'oeuvres of the best French artists, representing those parts
+of the History of France connected with St. Denis and with his own views
+of Empire.
+
+The beautiful white marble steps leading to the altar beneath which the
+seventh Emperor was to be laid were just finished when Louis XVIII. came
+to fill the tomb, which was just prepared, with the bones of Louis XVI.,
+to depose the Emperor, to complete the marble pavement, and to extend
+the _fleurs de lys_ over the whole church.
+
+And upon the stone which now conceals the entrance to the vault the
+Duchesse d'Angouleme always kneels at the grave of her father, for the
+fine bronze doors are deposed also, only, I believe, because they were
+placed there by Buonaparte, and now they have to get into the Vault by
+taking up the stone. We got into the carriage full of Buonaparte,
+returned to Paris, and then got out again with the Murrays at Malmaison.
+It is the only enviable French house I have seen, and deserves
+everything Edward said about it, even without the statues and half the
+pictures which are taken away.
+
+We spent three or four hours in the Thuilleries Gardens on Sunday.
+Buonaparte must have thought of gilding the dome of the Invalides when
+he was walking in the Jardin des Thuilleries, it suits the whole thing
+so exactly. A French crowd is so gay with the women's shawls and flowers
+that they assimilate well with the real flowers, and are almost as great
+an ornament to the Garden. A shower came on just as we were standing
+near the Palace, and at that moment the guards took their posts as a
+signal the King was going to Mass, so Edward and I followed the crowd to
+the Salle des Marechaux (they would not admit Donald because he had
+gaiters, and Edward had luckily trowsers), and there we saw Louis XVIII.
+and the Duchesse d'Angouleme and Monsieur much better than we had done
+the Sunday before, with all the trouble of getting a ticket for
+admission into the Chapel, and being squeezed to death into the bargain.
+His Majesty is more like a Turtle than anything else, and shows external
+evidence of his great affection for Turtle soup. His walk is quite
+curious. One of his most intimate friends says that in spite of his
+devotion _Le Roi est un peu philosophe_. We staid on Monday to see a
+review. Donald introduced us to a Mr. and Mrs. Boyd, who have lived in
+France the last 14 years, and have a terrace that overlooks the
+Boulevards, so there we sat very commodiously and saw the King and the
+Duchesses de Berri and Angouleme, in an open Caleche, pass through the
+double row of troops which lined the Boulevards from one end to the
+other, and a beautiful sight it was. Mr. Boyd invited me to a party at
+his house in the country, and in the hopes of seeing that _rara avis_, a
+French lady or gentleman, I said yes. So I sent for a hairdresser, who
+came post haste, and amused me with his _politesse_, and Edward with his
+_politique_. I was quite sorry I could not have him again.
+
+We dined with the Murrays, and then went on to Mr. Boyd, where I found
+myself the only lady there dressed amongst about forty. That is to say,
+their heads and tails were all in morning costume and mine in
+evening....
+
+I must go back one more day, and tell you how I went to be described for
+a passport to La Force on Saturday, and how I thought Mr. Bruce more of
+a hero young man than any I have ever seen. I recollect seeing him
+before, and thinking him a coxcomb, but a few years have mellowed all
+that into a very fine young man.
+
+Making every allowance for seeing him in his dungeon in La Force, I
+think you would be delighted with his countenance. He spoke his
+sentiments with manly freedom, and yet with the liberality of one who
+thinks it possible a man may differ from him without being a fool, or a
+rascal. Lucy and Louisa would certainly have fallen in love with his
+fine Roman head, which his prison costume of a great coat and no
+neckcloth showed to great advantage.
+
+And now, adieu Paris! At 2 o'clock on Wednesday a green coach, which
+none of you could see without ten minutes' laughing at least--three
+horses and a postillion! (what would I give just to drive up to
+Winnington with the whole equipage!)--carried us to Versailles, and
+there I longed for Louis XIV. as much as for Buonaparte at St. Cloud;
+for one cannot fancy any one living in those rooms or walking in those
+gardens without hoops and Henri quatre plumes. If one could but people
+them properly for a couple of hours, what a delightful recollection it
+would be! Versailles ought to be seen last. It is so magnificent that
+every other thing of the sort is quite lost in the comparison. I am glad
+I saw Paris and the Tuilleries and St. Cloud first. We saw the Palace,
+and then we dined, and then we set out for the Trianon, and then we met
+with a guide who entertained us so much as to put Louis XIV. and all his
+court out of my head. Buonaparte never went to Versailles but once to
+look at it, but at the Trianon he and Josephine lived, and it is
+impossible, in seeing those places, not to feel the principal interest
+to be in the inquiry--where he lived? where he sat? where he walked?
+where he slept?--so accordingly we asked our guide. "Monsieur, je ne
+connais point ce coquin la" soon told us what we were to expect from
+him, but his silence and his loyalty, and the combat between his hatred
+of the English and his hatred of Buonaparte was so amusing that we
+soon forgave him for not telling us anything about him. He said "Bony"
+was only "fit to be hanged." "Why did you not hang him, then?" He could
+only shrug his shoulders. "We should have hung him for you if he had
+come to England." "Ma foi! Monsieur, je crois que non." He told us the
+stories of the rooms and the pictures with all the vivacity and rapidity
+of a Frenchman, and with pretty little turns of wit.... Donald asked him
+if a cabinet in one of the rooms had not been given by the Empress of
+Russia to Buonaparte? He instantly seized him by the button with an air
+of triumph. "Tenez, Monsieur, quand l'Empereur de Russie etait ici, il a
+vu ce Cabinet et a dit; otez cette Volaille la" (pointing to the
+compartment in which the Imperial Eagles had been changed into Angels).
+"Je l'ai donne aux Francais, et lui--il n'etait pas Francais."
+
+[Illustration: The Great Green Coach.
+
+_To face p. 306._]
+
+In all the royal house the servants are equally impenetrable on the
+subject of Buonaparte. But sometimes it seems put on, sometimes they
+really do not know from having been only lately put there, but this man
+was a genuine Bourbonist and a genuine Frenchman.
+
+We just got to St. Germain in time to walk on the Terrace before evening
+closed in over the beautiful view. The Palace and the Town put me quite
+in mind of the deserted court in the "Arabian Nights." ...
+
+
+_Edward Stanley to his Nieces. Tuesday morning._
+
+I could fill another letter with the interesting things we saw yesterday
+at St. Denis and Malmaison, but we are off in an hour, and it is
+possible you may hear no more from these
+
+HAPPY TRAVELLERS.
+
+[Illustration: ALDERLEY RECTORY.]
+
+
+
+
+Index
+
+
+Abbeville, Louis XVIII. at, 244
+
+Abercromby, Colonel, 280
+
+Aisne, river, 145-161
+
+Aix la Chapelle, 146, 183, 191, 194, 205
+
+_Albania_, ship at Antwerp, 203
+
+Albinus, German anatomist, 232
+
+Alderley, 10, 12, 15, 16, 17-21, 24, 68, 74, 75, 96, 120, 236, 249, 283,
+296
+
+Alderley Church, 102
+
+Alderley Edge, 16
+
+Alderley Park, 14
+
+Alderley Rectory, 15-17
+
+Alessandria, Plain of Marengo, 49
+
+Alexander I., Emperor of Russia, 76, 82-85, 93, 133, 177, 178, 222, 229,
+237, 244, 245
+
+Algeciras Bay, 53
+
+Alhama, Spain, 58, 63
+
+Alhambra, The, 59, 61, 63, 64
+
+Alien Office, The, 82
+
+Alkmaar, 205
+
+"Allemagne," By Madame de Stael, 128
+
+Allied Sovereigns, 82, 95, 152
+
+Allies, 105, 115, 116, 126, 156, 160-162, 168, 196, 197, 236, 237, 242
+
+Alps, 57
+
+Ambassador, English, Sir Charles Stuart, 112
+
+Ambassador, Swedish, M. de Stael, 132
+
+Ambolle, Baron d', at Fontainebleau, 153
+
+_Ambuscade_, picture of capture of the frigate, 136
+
+Amiens, Peace of, 25, 73
+
+Amsterdam, 211, 222-224, 226
+
+Andernach on the Rhine, 187
+
+Angerstein Collection, 113
+
+Anglesey Society, 10
+
+Anglesey, Lord, his leg buried at Waterloo, 261
+
+Angouleme, Duchesse d', 289
+
+Antiquiera, Spain, 60, 64
+
+Antwerp, 199, 204, 206, 208, 209, 210, 233, 253
+
+Antwerp Gate, Bergen op Zoom, 214, 217
+
+Apreece, Mrs., afterwards Lady Davey, 81
+
+_Argonauta_, Spanish vessel, 51, 53, 56
+
+Ashbourne, 248
+
+Augereau, General, 238
+
+Austerlitz, 138, 269, 287
+
+Austria, 179, 181
+
+Austria, Emperor of, 135, 237
+
+
+Bacharach on the Rhine, 172, 184, 185
+
+Banks, Sir Joseph, 93
+
+Barcelona, 50, 52, 54, 55, 60, 69, 70
+
+Barclay de Tolly, 116
+
+Baring, Major, 268
+
+Barthelemy, 237
+
+Bastille, 295
+
+Batavia, 193
+
+Beauharnais, Eugene, Viceroy of Italy, 132, 134
+
+Bees, Napoleon's, 150
+
+Beeston Castle, 301
+
+Belleville, 115, 116, 117
+
+Belluno, Duc du, _see_ Victor
+
+Benedictines, head cook to convent of, 41
+
+Beresford, Viscount, Marshal, 74
+
+Bergen op Zoom, 199, 208-212
+
+Berghem, Dutch painter (1624-1683), 201
+
+Berri, Duc de, 139, 140, 152, 282, 289
+
+Berri, Duchesse de, 289, 305
+
+Berry au Bac, 145, 163, 164
+
+Berthier, Marshal, Prince de Wagram, 138, 149
+
+Bertrand, General, 269
+
+Bessborough, Earl of, 86
+
+Bessieres, Marshal, Duc d'Istria, 137
+
+Beveland, South, 210
+
+Bidwell, 122
+
+Bingen on the Rhine, 183
+
+"Birds, Familiar History of," by Bishop Stanley, 17
+
+_Bittern_, H.M.S., 67
+
+Bluecher, 85, 86, 88, 89, 93, 145, 263
+
+Boher, French sculptor (d. 1825), 132
+
+Bois de Boulogne, 177
+
+Bolero, Spanish dance, 60
+
+Bonn, music on the Rhine, 188
+
+Boodle's Club, 33
+
+Borneo Mission, 23
+
+Borodino, 177
+
+Boulogne, 107-252
+
+Bourbons, The, 78, 107, 237, 284, 288-292
+
+Boyd, Mr. and Mrs., 304
+
+Brabant, 181
+
+Breda, 209, 217, 218, 226
+
+Brisbane, Sir Thomas, at Valenciennes, 279, 283
+
+Brise-Maison, General, _see_ Maison
+
+British character, 195
+
+British soldiers, 166
+
+_Britomart_, H.M.S., 18
+
+Brock, Holland, 227
+
+Brooke, Sir James, English traveller, Rajah of Sarawack (1803-1868), 23
+
+Bruce, Michael, the Englishman who helped Lavalette to escape, 293, 294
+
+Bruges, 247, 258, 260, 273
+
+Brussels, 193, 195, 197, 199, 200, 208, 209, 233, 264, 269, 274, 277
+
+Buiksloot, North Holland, 226
+
+Buelow, Marshal, 145
+
+Buonaparte, Napoleon, Emperor, 34, 35, 37, 40, 46, 47, 50, 74, 90, 99,
+100, 118, 120, 121, 130, 138-140, 148, 152-154, 162, 175, 180, 238, 241,
+244, 266, 271, 275, 281, 282, 288, 295, 296, 300, 302, 303, 304, 306-307
+
+Buonaparte family, 237
+
+Buonaparte, Louis, King of Holland, 225
+
+Buonaparte, Lucien, 83
+
+Burgundy, 46
+
+"Bustle's Banquet," by Rev. E. Stanley, 17
+
+Buttereax, plains of, Lyons, 43
+
+"Butterfly's Ball," by Sir H. Roscoe, 17
+
+Buvin d'Enfer, 298
+
+Byng's Brigade, 263
+
+Byron, Lord, 79
+
+
+Cadiz, 53, 61, 68
+
+Cafe des Mille Colonnes, Paris, 142, 281
+
+Calick, Russia, 174
+
+"Calife Voleur, Le" Ballet, 88
+
+Cambray, 247, 279, 283
+
+Cambridge, 11, 12, 25, 40, 50, 81, 247, 248, 250
+
+Campo Formio, Treaty of (1797), 243
+
+Cannes, 242
+
+Canova, 132
+
+Canterbury, 249
+
+Cardinals at Fontainebleau, 152
+
+Carleton, Mr., 251
+
+Carlton House, 83
+
+Carnival of Venice, 240
+
+Caroline of Naples, 289
+
+Carousel, Place de, 37, 136, 139
+
+Castlereagh, Lord, 87
+
+Catacombs, Paris, 143, 286, 298
+
+Catalonia, 56
+
+Catherine, Grand-Duchess of Russia, _see_ Oldenburg
+
+Chalons, 41-43, 146, 156, 168
+
+Chamber of Representatives, 130
+
+Chambord, Comte de, 139
+
+Champagne, 41, 46
+
+Champlain, Lake, 238
+
+Champs Elysees, 119, 139, 301
+
+Charenton, near Paris, 116
+
+Charlemont, Anne, Lady, daughter and heiress of William Bermingham, of
+Ross Hill, co. Galway (d. 1876), aged 95, 132
+
+Charleroi, 276
+
+Charles IV., King of Spain, 64, 70
+
+Chateau Thierry, 145, 157
+
+Chatham, Earl of, 203
+
+Chatillon, 41
+
+Chavignon, near Laon, 161
+
+Chichester, Thomas, 2nd Earl of, 244
+
+"Childe Harold," 80
+
+Cholmondeley, Miss, 82
+
+Churchill, Major, 95
+
+Clancarty, Lord, Ambassador, 82, 233
+
+Clarke, Marshal, Duc de Feltre, 243
+
+Clinton, Lady Louisa, daughter of Lord Sheffield, 76, 251
+
+Clinton, General Sir Henry, 75
+
+Clinton, General Sir William, married Lady Louisa Holroyd, 75
+
+Coblentz, 186
+
+Cole, Sir Lowry, 279, 283
+
+Cologne, 172, 186, 190
+
+Colonne, Vendome, 110
+
+Combermere, Lord, 96
+
+Compiegne, 281, 283, 284
+
+"Comte de Cely," 78
+
+Conclave of St. Peter at Fontainebleau, 152
+
+Congress of Vienna, 235
+
+Constant, Napoleon's valet, 152
+
+Constantine, Grand Duke, 178
+
+Constantino, Grand Duchess, 240
+
+Consul, The First, 26, 37, 73
+
+Cooke, Major-General, 210, 211, 214
+
+Coote, Sir Evelyn, 259
+
+Corbeny, France, 163, 164
+
+"Corinne," by Mdme. de Stael, 79
+
+Cork, Lady, 86
+
+Cornegliano, Duc de, _see_ Moncey
+
+Coronation, The, 165
+
+Corps Legislatif, 129, 135
+
+Corte, La, 260
+
+Cotton trade, Rouen, 28
+
+Court dress necessary, 69
+
+Court etiquette, Buonaparte's tenacity as to, 37
+
+Court Martial, Gibraltar, in 1802, 66
+
+Craon or Craonne, 145, 156, 163
+
+Craufurd, Donald, of Auchinanes, 85, 246, 265, 276
+
+Croix, St. Louis, 291
+
+Cross, Mr. John, 98, 99
+
+Crosses, roadside, in Spain, signs of murders committed, 59
+
+Curtis, Sir William, 88
+
+Cutts Inn, Wilmslow, hamlet near Alderley, 162
+
+
+Dalmatie, Duc de, _see_ Soult
+
+D'Angely, _see_ Regnaud
+
+Dantzig, Duc de, _see_ Lefebre
+
+Davenport, E. D., of Capesthorne, 163
+
+Davoust, Marshal, Prince d'Eckmuehl, 137
+
+Davy, Lady, 79, 81
+
+Davy, Sir Humphrey, 79, 81
+
+De Lille, poet, 300
+
+Dendrich, boundary France and Austria, 179
+
+Denia, Spain, 71
+
+De Non, French artist under Napoleon, 295, 296
+
+Desaix, General, killed at Marengo (1800), 50
+
+Dijon, 41
+
+"Dinner of the Dogs," or "Bustle's Banquet," 17
+
+Directory, The, 50
+
+Doge of Genoa, 50
+
+Douglas, Hon. Frederick, interview with Napoleon, 240, 241
+
+Dover, 187
+
+Dow, Gerard, Dutch painter, 38
+
+Dragoons at Rouen (1802), 30
+
+Dresden, Battle of (1813), 76
+
+Duels between Russian and French officers, 107
+
+Du Mare, French professor, 124
+
+Dumeril, Andre, French physician, 124
+
+Dumolard, French politician, 130
+
+Du Pont, General, 139
+
+Dutch ark, 202
+
+Dutch carving, 205
+
+Dutch cleanliness, 227, 231
+
+Dutch family, 253
+
+Dutch guide, 230
+
+Dutch impenetrability, 224
+
+Dutch road, 209
+
+Dutch table d'hote, 226
+
+Dykes, marvellous, 228, 229
+
+
+Eagle and Child, inn at Alderley, 272
+
+Eagles, Napoleon's, 110, 147, 150, 269, 282, 300, 307
+
+Eckmuehl, Prince d', _see_ Davoust
+
+Ecole Polytechnique, 116, 175
+
+Edridge, H., painter, 139
+
+Egerton, Colonel, 280
+
+Egerton, Mr., 87
+
+Egypt, 42
+
+Ehrenbreitstein, 187
+
+Ehrenfels, Castle of, 184
+
+Elba, 46, 75, 159
+
+Elephant, fountain, 295-296
+
+Embden, 31
+
+Emigrants, French, 18
+
+Emperor's abdication, 75
+
+Emperor Alexander, _see_ Alexander
+
+Emperor of Austria, 135
+
+Emperor Napoleon, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Empress Josephine, _see_ Josephine
+
+Empress Maria Louisa, _see_ Maria Louisa
+
+Empress of Russia, 307
+
+Enghien, Duc d', 134, 245
+
+Entomologist, 185
+
+Entomology, 17, 124
+
+Ephemera, 186
+
+Etruria, King of, 50, 52
+
+Eugene Beauharnais, _see_ Beauharnais
+
+Executions, 43, 44
+
+Ex-Imperial Guard, 148
+
+
+Fagan, Mr., 46
+
+Fandangos, 60
+
+Fanshawe, Catherine, 77, 78
+
+Felix Meritus, Dutch museum, 225
+
+Feltre, Duke of, _see_ Clarke
+
+Ferdinand VII., King of Spain, 239
+
+Ferreant, Place de, Lyons, 43
+
+Flanders, 74
+
+Fleurs de Lys, 303
+
+Flushing, 210
+
+Foljambe, Mr., 249
+
+Fontainebleau, 145-146, 149, 152
+
+Forbach, 179
+
+Forbes, Lady Elizabeth, 240
+
+Fountain Elephant, 295-296
+
+Frascati, 33, 34, 39
+
+French emigrants, 18
+
+Fribourg, 170
+
+"Fugio ut Fulgor," 103
+
+
+Garde Imperiale, 107
+
+Gardes d'Honneur, 148
+
+Garrison of Gibraltar, 66, 67, 70
+
+Gazettes, 105
+
+Genappes, 270
+
+Generalife at Granada, 59
+
+Geneva, 35, 40, 43, 46-47, 49, 55
+
+Genoa, 47, 50
+
+George Street, 90
+
+Ghent, 274-275
+
+Gibbon, 15
+
+Gibraltar, 25, 55, 57, 60, 61, 65, 71
+
+Glenbervie, Lord and Lady, 236, 240
+
+Goat curricles, 222
+
+Goat gigs, 233
+
+Godoy, Emanuel, Prince of Peace, 64, 70
+
+Gore, General, 211
+
+Gorum, 220-222
+
+Goths, 293
+
+Graham, Sir Thomas, 207, 213
+
+Granada, 57, 59, 60, 62, 66
+
+Grand Tour, 25
+
+Gronow, Memoirs of Captain, 107
+
+Grosvenor Place, 39
+
+Grosvenor, Lord, 113
+
+Guarda Costas, 68
+
+Guido, painter, 38
+
+Guignes, 145, 153, 154
+
+Guillotine, The, 43
+
+
+Haarlem, 230, 231
+
+Hague, The, 112, 233
+
+_Hannibal_, The ship, 53
+
+Hardwicke, Earl of, 112
+
+Hare, Rev. Augustus, 16
+
+Hare, Mrs. Augustus, Maria Leycester, 16
+
+Hare, Augustus J. C., 16
+
+Harlequin and Punch, 297
+
+Harris, Captain, 74
+
+Haslar Hospital, 98
+
+Hauey, mineralogist, 124
+
+Havre, 94, 96, 99, 100, 103, 105
+
+Haye, Sainte, La, 268
+
+Hazard, Rue du, Paris, 109, 143
+
+Heber, Reginald, Bishop of Calcutta (1783-1826), 16, 90
+
+Hodnet, 16
+
+Holland, 76, 159, 200, 226, 302
+
+Holland, Dr., 86
+
+Holroyd, Lady Maria Josepha, _see_ also Stanley, 14
+
+
+Holyhead Harbour, 255
+
+Holyhead Island, 10, 17
+
+Holywell, Alderley, 16
+
+Hookham's, 93
+
+Hopital de la Charite, 45
+
+Hopital des Invalides, 282
+
+Hermitage, Forest of Fontainebleau, 147
+
+Hibberts, the, 132, 168
+
+Highlake, Hoylake, Cheshire, 55, 69
+
+Hill, Rowland, General Lord Hill 95, 96
+
+Hobart Town, Tasmania, 18
+
+Hobbema, Dutch painter (d. 1699), 201
+
+Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle, 128
+
+Hotel de Boston, Paris, 35
+
+Hotel des Etrangers, Paris, 143
+
+Hotel du Parc, Lyons, 43
+
+Hotel in the Wood, Haarlem, 230
+
+Hougoumont, 263, 265, 266, 267
+
+Hulot, General, 76
+
+Hundred Days, The, 244
+
+Hussey, Edward, of Scotney Castle, 25, 26, 32, 41, 71
+
+Hutchinson, Captain, 293, 294
+
+Huxley, Professor, 18
+
+Hyeres, 48
+
+
+ICELANDIC EXPEDITION, made by Sir John Stanley, 7th Bart. (1788), 56
+
+"Ida of Athens," story written by Lady Morgan at Penrhos, Holyhead. Her
+study "Attica" so called to present day, 232
+
+Imperial Chasseurs, 107
+
+India House illumination (1814), 84
+
+Infanta of Spain, Queen of Etruria, 52
+
+Invalides, Hotel des, 49, 115, 282
+
+Istria, Duc d', _see_ Bessieres
+
+
+Jourdan, General, (1762-1833), 49, 136, 146
+
+
+LA BELLE ALLIANCE, 263, 267
+
+Labedoyere, General, 299
+
+Laeken, Palace of, 275
+
+Lady Penrhyn's cottages, allusion to the model village of Llandegai in
+Wales, 227
+
+Lafayette, General, Marquis de, 126
+
+La Haye, Sainte, 268
+
+Laird, English Consul, Malaga, 58
+
+Lamb, Lady Caroline, 86
+
+Lansdowne, Lord, 78
+
+Laon, 145, 146, 156, 161-163
+
+"La Reyna Louisa," 54
+
+Lavalette, General, 293
+
+Le Brun, 38
+
+Lefebre, Marshal, Duc de Dantzig, 138
+
+Leghs, The, of High Legh, 285
+
+Leghorn, 50-52
+
+Leighton, Sir Baldwin, Bart., of Loton, 68
+
+Leipzic, Battle of, 170, 177
+
+Leith, _The John of Leith_
+
+Leith, the Emperor sails from, 56
+
+L'Ettorel, Professor, 124
+
+Levanter, east wind, Mediterranean, 71
+
+Leycester, Edward Penrhyn, brother of Mrs. E. Stanley, 76, 81, 95, 246,
+247, 252
+
+Leycester, Hugh, uncle of Mrs. Edward Stanley, 32
+
+Leycester, Kitty, _see_ Mrs. E. Stanley, 15
+
+Leycester, Maria, Mrs. Augustus Hare, 15, 16
+
+Leycester, Oswald, Mrs. E. Stanley's father, 15
+
+Leycester, Ralph, 261
+
+Leycesters of Toft, 15
+
+Leyden, 231, 232
+
+Libraries, Public, 38
+
+Liege, 193, 195, 197
+
+Lille, 146
+
+Lillo, fort in Holland, 203
+
+Lind, Jenny, 22
+
+Lindsay, Lady Charlotte, 236, 240
+
+Linois, Comte de, 53
+
+Linz on the Rhine, 192
+
+Lisbon, 72
+
+Lisle, 196
+
+Liverpool, 36, 43, 51
+
+Liverpool, Lord, 87
+
+Llandaff, Dean Vaughan of, 19
+
+Lodi, Battle of, 136
+
+Loja, in Spain, 60
+
+London, 81, 82
+
+Lorich on Rhine, 184
+
+Louis Buonaparte, King of Holland, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Louis, King of Etruria, 50
+
+Louis XIV., 306
+
+Louis XVI., 303
+
+Louis XVIII., 78, 106, 107, 150, 177, 225, 235, 243, 271, 282, 290, 292,
+303-304
+
+Louisa Stanley, _see_ Stanley
+
+Louvel, assassin of the Duke de Berri, 139
+
+Louvre, The, 38, 113, 274, 300
+
+Lowe, Rev. Mr., 223
+
+Lucien Buonaparte, _see_ Buonaparte
+
+Lucy Stanley, _see_ Stanley
+
+Lugai, Professor, 232
+
+Lutzen, Battle of, 170
+
+Lyne and Co., Lisbon, 72
+
+Lyons, 40, 42, 43-46, 47
+
+
+Macclesfield, Cheshire, 221
+
+Macdonald, Marshal, Duc de Tarente, 196, 244
+
+Macon, 42
+
+Madrid, 69, 71, 72
+
+Maine, The River, 182
+
+Maison, General, "Brise-Maison," 197
+
+Malaga, Mole of, 57, 61, 62, 64, 68
+
+Malines, Mechlin, 201, 202
+
+Malmaison, 130, 131, 134, 297
+
+Manchester, 85
+
+Marcet, Mrs., 78
+
+Marengo, Battle of, 49, 119
+
+Maria Josepha Holroyd, Lady, _see_ Holroyd and Stanley
+
+Marie Louise, Empress, 74, 240, 242, 281, 284
+
+Marlborough, Duke of, biography by order of Napoleon, 297
+
+Marly, Aqueduct of, 133
+
+Marmont, Marshal, Duc de Raguse, 106, 116-118, 126, 135, 138, 145, 177
+
+Marshals, The, 112, 135, 151, 195, 238, _see_ also under Bessieres,
+Davoust, Berthier, Clarke, Jourdan, Lefebre, Macdonald, Marmont,
+Massena, Moncey, Mortier, Murat, Ney, Soult, Victor
+
+Martin, Mr., 122
+
+Massena, Marshal, Duc de Rivoli, 138
+
+Mathew, Father, 21
+
+Matthews, Montague, 37
+
+Maubeuge, 271, 278
+
+Maudesley's engines, 91
+
+Mausthurm, or Mouse Turret, 184
+
+Mayence, 146, 159, 180, 182
+
+McDonald, Captain, 298
+
+Meaux, 145, 153-156
+
+_Medusa_, English frigate, 50
+
+Melbourne, Lord, 19, 86
+
+Melun, 145, 146
+
+"Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, 16
+
+Meteoric stones, presentation sword made from, 93
+
+Metsu, Gabriel, Dutch painter (1615-1658), 38
+
+Metz, 146, 169, 173-175, 180
+
+Mieris, Dutch painter (1635-1681), 38
+
+Milton's mulberry-tree, 40
+
+Minorca, 67, 70
+
+Moncey, Marshal, Duc de Cornegliano, 137-139
+
+Mons, 271-273
+
+Montmartre, 105, 108, 110, 115-117, 175
+
+Montserrat, Lady of, 56
+
+Mont St. Jean, Waterloo, 262
+
+Moors, The, 62
+
+Moreau, General, 76
+
+Moreau, Madame, 76, 78, 90
+
+Morgan, Lady, 232
+
+Morritt, Mr., of Rokeby, 87
+
+Mortier, Marshal, Duc de Treviso, 7, 137, 144
+
+Moscow, 174
+
+Moskowa, Prince de, _see_ Ney
+
+Munchausen, Baron, 117
+
+Murat, Joachim, King of Naples, 138
+
+Murrays, The, 285, 290, 297, 298, 303
+
+Mutiny at Gibraltar, 66
+
+Muxham, near Antwerp, 207
+
+
+N., erasure of Napoleon's initial (1814-1816), 110-300
+
+Naard, Holland, 220
+
+Naples, 55, 71
+
+Naples, the King of, _see_ Murat
+
+Napoleon, 26, 73-83, 107, 111-113, 126, 134, 145, 146, 164, 176, 181,
+186, 187, 196, 199, 205, 206, 221, 223, 235, 242-245, 267-269, 288, 289,
+295
+
+National Schools, 22
+
+Nazareth, 151
+
+Necker, Minister to Louis XVI., 79
+
+Nelson's Pillar, Dublin, 110
+
+Netherlands, 146, 181, 237, 244
+
+New Guinea, 18
+
+New Zealand, 18
+
+Ney, Marshal, Prince de la Moskowa, 137, 299
+
+Nightingale, Miss, 19
+
+Nightingale, Dr., at Alderley, 126
+
+Nivelle Road, 265, 276
+
+"Nobles de Campagne," 241
+
+Norfolk, 20
+
+Normandy, 46
+
+North, Lady Catherine, married Lord Glenbervie, 191
+
+North, Hon. F., 191, 236
+
+North Island of New Zealand, 18
+
+North Sea, 18
+
+Norwich, Bishop of, _see_ E. Stanley, 19-22, 24
+
+Nottingham Castle, 249
+
+Novi, Northern Italy, 50
+
+
+Oldenburg bonnets, 101, 106, 200
+
+Oldenburg, Duchess, Catherine of, 83, 90, 92, 98, 178
+
+"Ologies," Humorous Sketches by E. S., 17
+
+O'Neil, Miss, actress, 286
+
+Orange, Prince of, 208, 233, 254
+
+Orange, Princess of, 231
+
+Ostade, Adrien, Dutch painter, 201
+
+Ostend, 251, 253, 255, 258, 259
+
+
+Palais Royal, 119, 281, 285
+
+Palmer, Mr., 33
+
+Pantin, France, 116
+
+Paris, 29, 31, 33, 34-35, 37-40, 73, 74, 76, 85, 106, 108, 109, 112-118,
+134, 135, 143, 249, 277, 285
+
+Parker, Mrs., of Astle, 137
+
+Parry, Sir Edward, K.C.B., arctic navigator, m. Isabella, daughter of
+Sir John Stanley, 254
+
+Peace, Prince of, _see_ Godoy
+
+"Peacock at Home, The," 17
+
+Penrhos, Holyhead, 10
+
+Perignan, General, 137
+
+Peter the Great, House of, 226
+
+Petit, Madame, French actress, 33
+
+Pevensey, Lord, 248
+
+Pierre Suisse, ancient castle near Lyons, destroyed in the Revolution,
+45
+
+Pisa, 51, 52
+
+Place Buonaparte, Lyons, 43
+
+Place Belle Cour, Lyons, 43
+
+Platoff, Russian General, 89
+
+Poissardes, Havre, 101
+
+Polytechnique, Ecole, _see_ Ecole
+
+Pope Pius VII., 46
+
+Porto Ferraro, Elba, 46-53
+
+Potter, Paul, Dutch animal painter (1625-1654), 201
+
+Praams, Flotilla of, at Havre, intended for the invasion of England, 100
+
+Prussia, Frederick William, King of, 91, 92, 152, 153, 177, 192, 237
+
+Prussia, Louisa, Queen of, 178
+
+Pulteney Hotel, London, 85
+
+
+"Queen," H.M.S, 23
+
+Quiverain frontier, France and Belgium, 278
+
+
+Radnor Mere, at Alderley, 252
+
+Raguse, Duc de, _see_ Marmont
+
+Rambouillet, Seine et Oise, 74
+
+Ramsgate, 249
+
+Raphael, 38, 133
+
+_Rattlesnake_, H.M.S., 18, 23
+
+Recamier, Madame, 33, 126
+
+Regnaud, St. Jean d'Angely, 119
+
+Reign of Terror, The, 26
+
+Rembrandt, 38, 225
+
+Revolution, The, 27, 35, 48, 126
+
+Rheims, 146, 165, 168
+
+Rhine Castles, 144, 172, 186
+
+Riddel, Captain, 60
+
+Rivoli, Duc de, _see_ Massena
+
+Robespierre, Maximilian, 42, 48
+
+Rokeby, Mr. Morritt, of, 87
+
+Romainville, 116
+
+Rome, 55, 71
+
+Rome, King of, sent to Rambouillet, 74;
+ in uniform at three years old, 141;
+ four goat carriages ordered for him, 223
+
+Roncour, Madame, actress, 114
+
+Ronstan the Mameluke, 152
+
+Rotterdam, 223, 234
+
+Rouen, 27, 29, 31, 35, 36, 103, 104, 105, 120, 253
+
+Rowland Hill, _see_ Lord Hill
+
+Royals, the regiment, 67
+
+Rubens, 38, 205, 274
+
+Rue Aux Ours, 36
+
+"Rule Britannia," 99
+
+Russia, Empress of, 307
+
+Russia, Emperor of, _see_ Alexander
+
+
+Saarbruck, 195
+
+Saardam, 228
+
+Saas, 258
+
+St. Andrew, 281
+
+St. Andrew's Hall, Norwich, 21
+
+St. Appollonius, chapel on the Rhine, 188
+
+St. Avold, German Lorraine, 178, 179
+
+St. Bernard's Pass, 49
+
+St. Cloud, special residence of Napoleon, 140, 306
+
+St. Denis, 31, 116, 297, 302, 308
+
+St. Germain, The Terrace, 307
+
+St. Helena, 266, 269
+
+St. James' Street, 84
+
+St. Jean d'Angely, _see_ Regnaud
+
+St. Jean de Luz, 166
+
+St. John's, Cambridge, 12, 247
+
+St. Lawrence, processional figure, 280
+
+St. Michel, village near Havre, 100
+
+St. Roque, Spain, 65
+
+Salamanca, Battle of, 279
+
+Salvator Rosa, Neapolitan painter (1615-1673), 39
+
+Saumarez, Admiral, 53
+
+Scheldt, 204
+
+Scheveningen, fishing village near the Hague, 233
+
+Schwartzenberg, 74, 145
+
+Scotney Castle, Kent, property of E. Hussey, Esq., 25
+
+Scott, John, 262
+
+Scott, Sir Walter, 15, 262
+
+Scovell, Sir George, 247, 279, 283
+
+Senate, 77, 78
+
+Serinyer, 240
+
+Serurier, General, 137
+
+Seville, 59
+
+Sheffield, Lady (Lady Anne North), 191
+
+Sheffield, John B. Holroyd, First Lord, 14, 74, 75, 112, 235, 236, 240,
+242, 245-248
+
+Sheffield Place, 247
+
+Shute, surgeon, 42
+
+Sicard, Abbe, founder Deaf and Dumb School, Paris, 298
+
+Siddons, Mrs., 33
+
+Skerret, Major-General, 211
+
+Smith, Sydney, 15
+
+Soignies, Forest of, 261, 264
+
+Soissons, 145, 156, 159, 161-163
+
+Sotheby, Mr. and Mrs., 285, 298, 300
+
+Soult, Marshal, Duc de Dalmatie, 74, 138
+
+South Stack Rocks, Holyhead, 17
+
+Spain, 26, 55, 59, 63, 66, 69, 239
+
+Spanish Funds, 239
+
+Stael, Auguste de, 127
+
+Stael, Madame de, 76, 78, 79, 97, 110-112, 125
+
+Stael, Mademoiselle de, 127
+
+Stafford, Lord, 113
+
+Stanley, Sir John, 6th Bart., m. Margaret, daughter and heiress of Hugh
+Owen of Penrhos, 1763, 10
+
+Stanley, Lady Margaret Owen, born 1742, 10
+
+Stanley, Sir John T., 7th Bart., 1st Lord Stanley of Alderley, m. 1796
+Lady Maria Josepha Holroyd, daughter of Lord Sheffield, 15
+
+Stanley, Lady Maria Josepha, 15, 26, 74, 76, 78, 84, 89, 96, 235, 248,
+260, 273, 281, 301
+
+Stanley, Edward, naturalist and ornithologist, son of Sir John Stanley,
+6th Bart.;
+  born 1779;
+  entered St. John's, Cambridge, 1798;
+  wrangler, 1802;
+  Rector of Alderley, 1805 to 1837;
+  Vice-President of British Association for the Advancement of Science, 1836;
+  Bishop of Norwich, 1837;
+  died, 1849, 9-24
+
+Stanley, Mrs. Edward, Kitty, daughter of Rev. Oswald Leycester, of Stoke
+upon Tern, 15, 22, 82
+
+Stanley, Owen, eldest son of Bishop Stanley, 17, 23, 140, 190, 222
+
+Stanley, Charles Edward, 2nd son of _ibid._, 19
+
+Stanley, Arthur Penrhyn, Dean of Westminster, 3rd son of _ibid._, 10,
+19, 23
+
+Stanley, Mary, eldest daughter of Bishop Stanley, 19
+
+Stanley, Catherine, 2nd daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. C. Vaughan, Master of the Temple, and Dean of Llandaff, 19
+
+Stanley, Rianette, daughter of Sir John, 7th Bart., and Lady M. J.
+Stanley, 277
+
+Stanley, Lucy, 2nd daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. Captain Marcus Hare, R.N., 264, 305
+
+Stanley, Louisa Dorothea, 3rd daughter of _ibid._, 249, 250, 293, 297,
+305
+
+Stanley, Isabella, 4th daughter of _ibid._;
+ m. 1826 Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., Arctic Navigator, 254, 283
+
+Stanley, Louisa, daughter of Sir John T. Stanley, 6th Bart., and
+Margaret Owen of Penrhos: m. 1802 Sir Baldwin Leighton, Bart., 68
+
+Stanley, Lady Charlotte, daughter of 13th Earl of Derby;
+ m. 1823 Edward
+Leycester Penrhyn, 246
+
+Stanmer Park, property of Earl of Chichester, 243-244
+
+Stockholm, 170
+
+Stoke-upon-Tern, Mrs. E. Stanley's early home, 15, 115
+
+Strasburg, 182
+
+Stuart, Sir Charles, afterwards Lord Stuart de Rothesay, 105, 112, 113,
+120-122, 160
+
+Swedenborg, 194
+
+Sydney, 18
+
+Sydney, Lord, 86
+
+
+Tadmor, Palmyra, 152
+
+Talleyrand-Perigord, Prince de Benevento, French statesman and
+diplomatist, 1754-1838, Ambassador to Great Britain (1830), 237
+
+Talma, French tragic actor, 32, 114, 240, 286-7
+
+Tangiers, 60
+
+Tarentum, Duc de, _see_ Macdonald
+
+Tarleton and Rigge, 43
+
+_Tartana_, Mediterranean vessel, 57
+
+Tasmania, 19
+
+Temple, Paris prison, 31
+
+Teniers, Dutch painter, 201
+
+Tennant, Mr., 92, 93
+
+_Terror_, H.M.S., 18
+
+Tets von Grondam, Mdme., 229
+
+Tezart, Paris banker, 36
+
+Theatres, Paris, 33, 39
+
+Thuilleries, 37, 113, 121, 135, 304, 306
+
+Titian, painter, 38
+
+Toft Hall, Knutsford, 15
+
+Toledo, 59
+
+Tomkinson, Miss, 279
+
+Toulon, 70
+
+Tousein, Russian General, 177
+
+Towers, round towers at Laon, 162
+
+Trappe, La, Monk of, soldier in Napoleon's army, 170
+
+Treaty of Paris, 146
+
+Trechschuyt, Dutch barge, 225
+
+Treviso, Duc de, _see_ Mortier
+
+Trianon, 140, 306
+
+Troyes, Champagne, 41
+
+Trueman, Mr., 259
+
+Tunno, Miss, a brilliant member of society, lived at Taplow Lodge, 76,
+78, 85
+
+Turin, 49
+
+
+Union of England with Ireland and Scotland, Napoleon's views, 241
+
+Utrecht, 221, 224, 228
+
+
+Valencia, Spain, 71
+
+Valenciennes, 278, 282
+
+Vandyck, 38, 205, 206
+
+Vauchamps, 145
+
+Vaughan, Master of the Temple and Dean of Llandaff, 19
+
+Vaughan, Mrs, _see_ Catherine Stanley, 19
+
+Vauxhall, 30, 33
+
+Vendome, Colonne, 110
+
+Vendome Place, 110, 292
+
+Venice, 240
+
+Venice preserved, 285
+
+Ventas, Spanish inns, 58, 62, 65
+
+Venus de Medici, 114, 132
+
+Verdun, 146, 168, 169
+
+Vernet, Antoine Claude, painter (1758-1836), 38
+
+Veronese, Paul, 38
+
+Versailles, 39, 140, 305
+
+Vetey Malaga, 58
+
+Vetturino travelling, 25, 40, 47, 49
+
+Victor, Marshal, Duc de Belluno, 138, 145
+
+Vienna, Congress of, 112, 235, 237
+
+Villejuif, near Paris, 149
+
+Vincennes, Chateau de, 134
+
+Vittoria, Panorama of, 82
+
+Vivienne, Rue de, 32, 35
+
+
+Waal, river, Holland, 220
+
+Wagram, Prince de, _see_ Berthier
+
+Walcheren, 199, 203, 243
+
+Wales, Princess of, 177
+
+Waterloo, 133, 199, 246, 247, 260, 264, 265, 270, 275, 279
+
+Waterloo, Panorama of, by Barker, 248
+
+Wellington, Lord, _see_ Duke of
+
+Wellington, Duke of, 75, 263, 278, 280, 283, 291
+
+Wellington Tree, The, 268
+
+White's Club, 93, 95
+
+Wilberforce, William, 128
+
+Wilbraham, Mr., of Delamere Lodge, 285
+
+Wilson, Sir Robert, 294
+
+Windlesham, Surrey, 12
+
+Winnington, Cheshire, property of Sir John Stanley, 132
+
+Winzengerode, General, 145, 159
+
+Woolwich, 91
+
+Wurtemberg, Crown Prince of, 116
+
+Wurtemberg, Prince Eugene of, 116
+
+
+Yankies, 238
+
+Yarmouth, Lord, 242
+
+Yorke, Lady Elizabeth, 112
+
+
+UNWIN BROTHERS, LIMITED, THE GRESHAM PRESS, WOKING AND LONDON.
+
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] Maria Leycester, m. 1829 Rev. Augustus Hare.
+
+[2] "Memorials of a Quiet Life," by Augustus Hare, adopted son of Mrs.
+Augustus Hare (Maria Leycester).
+
+[3] E. Hussey, of Scotney Castle, Kent. He died in 1817 and left his
+only son Edward (married, 1853, Henrietta Clive, daughter of Baroness
+Windsor) to the guardianship of Edward Stanley.
+
+[4] Madame Recamier, famous French beauty, 1777-1849.
+
+[5] Pius VII., made Pope in 1800.
+
+[6] General Jourdan, 1762-1833, Marshal. He fought in the Peninsular
+War, and rallied to Napoleon during the Hundred Days, but later on
+served the Bourbons and was made Governor of the Hotel des Invalides
+under Louis Philippe.
+
+[7] General Desaix; killed at Marengo, 1800.
+
+[8] Louis, King of Etruria, son of Ferdinand, Duke of Parma married
+Mary, Infanta of Spain; died 1803.
+
+[9] Comte de Linois, 1761-1848. On June 13, 1801, he, with three ships,
+defeated six British ships in Algeciras Bay, and being protected by the
+Spanish batteries, he forced the British admiral to retreat, leaving the
+_Hannibal_ in possession of the enemy. In recognition of this triumph
+Linois received a sword of honour from Napoleon. The English fleet
+avenged this disaster on July 12, 1801, when the Spanish and French
+squadrons set out from Cadiz with the captured _Hannibal_ and Admiral
+Saumarez forced the combined fleets to retire shattered into harbour
+again.
+
+[10] The vessel in which Edward Stanley's elder brother John had made
+his Icelandic Expedition, 1788.
+
+[11] A famous image of the Virgin, said to have been found A.D. 880 on a
+mountain of Catalonia, and in honour of which a magnificent church was
+built by Philip II. and Philip III. of Spain.
+
+[12] _Tartana_--a vessel peculiar to the Mediterranean.
+
+[13] Emanuel Godoy, favourite Minister of Charles IV. of Spain.
+
+[14] H.R.H. Edward, Duke of Kent; appointed Governor of Gibraltar, 1802.
+In order to establish strict discipline in the garrison, which he found
+in a very demoralised state, he issued a general order forbidding any
+private soldiers to enter the wine shops, half of which he closed at a
+personal sacrifice of L4,000 a year in licensing fees. In consequence, a
+mutiny broke out on Christmas Eve, 1802. Though the mutiny was quelled,
+the Home Government did not support the Duke, who was recalled in March,
+1803.
+
+[15] Edward Stanley's sister, Louisa; m., November, 1802, to Sir Baldwin
+Leighton, Bart., of Loton, Shropshire.
+
+[16] Godoy (Emanuel--b. 1767, d. 1851), Prince of Peace. Prime Minister
+to Charles IV. of Spain.
+
+[17] Marshal Viscount Beresford, b. 1770, d. 1854, General in the
+English Army. He reorganised the Portuguese army in the Peninsular War.
+
+[18] Sir Henry Clinton, General; d. 1829.
+
+[19] Sir William Clinton, General, 1769-1854; married Louisa, second
+daughter of Lord Sheffield.
+
+[20] On April 10th Lord Wellington fought the Battle of Toulouse against
+Soult.
+
+[21] Madame Moreau, widow of General Moreau, daughter of General Hulot,
+and a friend of the Empress Josephine. Since the death of the General,
+who was killed at the battle of Dresden, in 1813, the Emperor Alexander
+had given Mme. Moreau a pension of 100,000 francs a year in recognition
+of her husband's services; and in 1814 Louis XVIII. gave her the rank of
+"Marechale de France."
+
+[22] Catherine Fanshawe, poetess, and friend of most of the literary
+people in London of her day.
+
+[23] Mrs. Marcet, b. 1785, a native of Geneva (_nee_ Halduriand). Well
+known for her economic and scientific works.
+
+[24] Madame de Stael, daughter of Louis XVI.'s Minister Necker, b. 1766,
+d. 1817. Married 1786 to the Baron de Stael, Swedish Minister to France.
+She had been exiled from France by Napoleon on account of her books,
+"Corinne" and "L'Allemagne."
+
+[25] Sir Humphry Davy, 1778-1829; began life as a Cornish miner. He
+became a distinguished chemist and scientist.
+
+[26] Daughter of C. Kerr, Esq., of Kelso, and widow of S. Apreece, Esq.,
+married Sir Humphry Davy, 1812.
+
+[27] Second Earl of Clancarty, 1767-1837. Ambassador to the Netherlands
+
+[28] The Emperor Alexander I. of Russia, 1777-1825.
+
+[29] Lucien, second brother of the Emperor Napoleon, 1775-1840.
+
+[30] Catherine, Grand Duchess of Russia, sister of the Emperor Alexander
+I., won golden opinions in England. "She was very clever, graceful, and
+elegant, with most pleasing manners, and spoke English well." Creevey
+says that the Emperor was much indebted to his sister, the Duchess of
+Oldenburg, for "keeping him in the course by her judicious interposition
+and observations." In 1808 Napoleon had wished for her as his bride,
+but, as she says in a letter to her brother, the Czar, "her heart would
+break as the intended wife of Napoleon before she could reach the limits
+of his usurped dominions, and she cannot but consider as frightfully
+ominous this offer of marriage from an Imperial Assassin to the daughter
+and grand-daughter of two assassinated Emperors" (see "Letters of Two
+Brothers," by Lady G. Ramsden). The marriage of the Grand Duchess
+Catherine to the Duke of Oldenburg was hastily arranged to enable her to
+escape the alliance. The Duke died in 1812, and she afterwards married
+her cousin, the Crown Prince of Wurtemberg, to whom she had been
+attached in early youth. The Duchess attracted great attention by
+wearing a large bonnet, which afterwards became the fashion and was
+called after her.
+
+[31] Lady Caroline, daughter of the Earl of Bessborough, wife of Hon.
+William Lamb, afterwards Lord Melbourne, authoress of "Glenarvon," &c.
+
+[32] Mr. Morritt, of Rokeby.
+
+[33] Lord Liverpool, 1770-1828. Prime Minister in 1815.
+
+[34] Platoff, 1716-1818, Russian General.
+
+[35] Frederick William III.
+
+[36] The Duchess had been very fond of music, but since the death of her
+husband it had affected her so deeply that she feared breaking down on
+any public occasion.
+
+[37] Rowland Hill. General Lord Hill, 1772-1842; distinguished in the
+Peninsular War.
+
+[38] The Prince Regent, afterwards George IV.
+
+[39] "After the Restoration of the Bourbons several duels took place for
+the most frivolous causes. Duels were fought even by night. The officers
+of the Swiss guards were constantly measuring swords with the officers
+of the old 'Garde Imperiale'" (Gronow's Memoirs, vol. ii. p. 22).
+
+[40] The Colonne Vendome. This stood on the site of a statue to Louis
+XIV. which had been melted down at the Revolution. It was made of
+Austrian cannon taken during the years from 1806 to 1810.
+
+[42] Madame de Stael had only returned to France after her long exile a
+few weeks after Napoleon's abdication. Her rooms were in the Hotel de
+Tamerzan, 105, Rue de Grenelle St. Germain.
+
+[42] Stuart, Sir Charles, 1779-1845. Eldest son of Sir C. Stuart,
+General, and Louisa, daughter and co-heiress of Lord Vere Bertie.
+Minister at the Hague and Ambassador at Paris, and later on at St.
+Petersburg. British Envoy at the Congress of Vienna. Created Baron
+Stuart de Rothesay 1841. Married, 1816, Lady Elizabeth Yorke, third
+daughter of third Earl of Hardwicke. Gronow gives a more favourable
+account of him, "One of the most popular Ambassadors Great Britain ever
+sent to Paris."
+
+[43] Under the Treaty of Paris France had been allowed to keep the Art
+Treasures taken by Napoleon.
+
+[44] Talma, the celebrated tragic actor, 1763-1826.
+
+[45] On March 30th the Allies marched on Paris. They attacked in three
+divisions--the Silesian army on the side of Montmartre, Prince Eugene of
+Wurtemberg and Barclay de Tolly by Pantin and Romainville, the Crown
+Prince of Wurtemberg by Vincennes and Charenton. Marmont surrendered the
+same day.
+
+[46] Regnaud St. Jean d'Angely, 1762-1819.
+
+[47] Abai Reny Just Haiiy, 1743-1822.
+
+[48] Dumeril, naturalist and professor.
+
+[49] Marmont, 1774-1852, Duc de Raguse. The defence of Paris had been
+left in his hands by Napoleon, and his surrender to the Allies was the
+finishing stroke which forced Napoleon to abdicate.
+
+[50] Lafayette, 1757-1834, Liberal general and politician.
+
+[51] Madame Recamier, 1777-1849, a famous beauty. She had held a "salon"
+at Paris in the early days of the Empire, but had been exiled in 1811
+and had just returned (June, 1814).
+
+[52] Auguste de Stael, 1790-1827.
+
+[53] Mademoiselle de Stael, married the Duc de Broglie.
+
+[54] Hodgson, Dean of Carlisle and Rector of St. George's, Hanover
+Square; d. 1844.
+
+[55] William Wilberforce, 1759-1833; distinguished among the promoters
+of Negro Emancipation and the Abolition of the Slave Trade.
+
+[56] Dumolard, 1766-1820; a French politician, a prominent figure in the
+Chamber of Representatives under the first Restoration.
+
+[57] Eugene Beauharnais, 1780-1824, Viceroy of Italy, 1805-15. Son of
+Josephine by her first marriage with the Vicomte de Beauharnais.
+
+[58] After the Second Restoration Prince Eugene Beauharnais sold
+Malmaison and removed its gallery of pictures to Munich.
+
+[59] Duc d'Enghien, 1772-1804, son of the Duc de Bourbon. Shot at
+Vincennes by order of Napoleon when First Consul, under the pretext that
+he had conspired against him.
+
+[60] Marmont lost his arm at the battle of Salamanca in 1812.
+
+[61] Jourdan, General, 1762-1833.
+
+[62] Duc de Treviso, Marshal Mortier, 1768-1835.
+
+[63] Duc de Conegliano, Marshal Moncey, 1754-1842. He defended the walls
+of Paris as Major-General of the National Guard and laid down his arms
+only after the Capitulation was signed.
+
+[64] Serurier, General, 1742-1819.
+
+[65] Perignan, General, 1754-1819.
+
+[66] Ney, Prince de la Moskowa, Duc d'Elchingen, 1769-1815, "Le Brave
+des Braves." He swore allegiance to Louis XVIII., but returned to
+Napoleon in 1815, fought under him at Waterloo, and was shot for treason
+under the Second Restoration.
+
+[67] Duc d'Istria, Bessieres, Commander of the Old Guard.
+
+[68] Davoust, Prince d'Eckmuhl. In 1814 the unfortunate city of Hamburg
+was still suffering under the unrelenting severity of Davoust, who had
+appointed a commission having the power of condemning to death all
+persons who used inflammatory speeches to exasperate the soldiers or the
+inhabitants.
+
+[69] Victor, Duc de Belluno, 1764-1841.
+
+[70] Lefebre, Duc de Dantzig, 1755-1820.
+
+[71] Berthier, Prince de Wagram, 1753-1815, Chief of the Staff. A close
+friend of Napoleon from 1796 onwards. He escaped to Bamberg in 1815 in
+hopes of remaining neutral, but was killed there by the emissaries of a
+secret society.
+
+[72] Murat, 1778-1815, King of Naples and husband of Caroline Bonaparte.
+He had concluded a treaty with Austria against Napoleon in January,
+1814. He was shot in Calabria in 1815.
+
+[73] Massena, Duc de Rivoli, 1758-1817. "The favoured child of victory."
+
+[74] Soult, Duc de Dalmatie, 1769-1861. He decided the victory of
+Austerlitz.
+
+[75] Edridge, portrait painter, 1769-1821.
+
+[76] Duke de Berri, second son of the Comte d'Artois, afterwards Charles
+X., 1778-1820. He married Caroline of Naples, and was the father of the
+Comte de Chambord. He was assassinated by Louvel on the steps of the
+Opera House at Paris in 1820.
+
+[77] General Du Pont, 1759-1838.
+
+[78] Eldest son of Edward Stanley, b. 1811.
+
+[79] Soissons had been taken in February by the Russians under
+Winzengerode.
+
+[80] E. D. Davenport, Esq., of Capesthorne, Cheshire, 1778-1847.
+
+[81] May, 1813.
+
+[82] October, 1813.
+
+[83] Subsequent accounts which I heard proved that this second account
+was nearer the truth than the first (E. Stanley).
+
+[84] Queen Louise, _nee_ Princess of Mecklenburg Strelitz.
+
+[85] Grand Duke Constantine, brother of Czar Alexander, 1779-1831.
+
+[86] Lady Catherine North, sister of Lady Sheffield, married 1786,
+Sylvester Douglas, Lord Glenbervie.
+
+[87] Hon. F. North, fifth Earl of Guilford.
+
+[88] Marshal Macdonald, 1765-1840.
+
+[89] General Maison, 1771-1840, one of the most faithful of Napoleon's
+generals.
+
+[90] This disastrous expedition to attack Antwerp sailed under the Earl
+of Chatham, July 20, 1809, and ended in total failure. The troops were
+withdrawn in December, 1809.
+
+[91] Sir Thomas Graham, 1748-1843, afterwards Lord Lynedoch.
+
+[92] Louis Buonaparte, third brother of Napoleon, 1778-1846; King of
+Holland, 1806-1813.
+
+[93] A novel by Lady Morgan.
+
+[94] F. North, afterwards 5th Earl of Guilford.
+
+[95] A member of the Directory.
+
+[96] In the neighbourhood of Lyons.
+
+[97] The defeat of the British Flotilla by the Americans in September,
+1814.
+
+[98] Ferdinand VII., b. 1784, d. 1833.
+
+[99] Daughter of the Duke of Saxe Coburg; married in 1796 to the Grand
+Duke Constantine of Russia.
+
+[100] Daughter of the second Earl of Guilford: married, 1800, John, son
+of Earl of Balcarres; d. 1849.
+
+[101] Son of Lord Glenbervie, and nephew of Lord Sheffield.
+
+[102] General Clarke, 1765-1818. He took part in the negotiations for
+the Treaty of Campo Formio in 1797. He was made Duc de Feltre for his
+services against the English at Walcheren. He accepted service under
+Louis XVIII., and was his Minister of War, 1815-1816.
+
+[103] Marshal Macdonald (made Duc de Tarente after the battle of Wagram,
+1809), b. 1765, d. 1840. He did not join Napoleon during the Hundred
+Days, but refused employment under the King, and served only as a simple
+soldier in the National Guard.
+
+[104] Edward Leycester had inherited in December, 1815, the fortune of
+his cousin, Lady Penrhyn, who directed in her will that he should assume
+the name of Penrhyn. He married, in 1823, Lady Charlotte Stanley,
+daughter of the 14th Earl of Derby.
+
+[105] Lord Pevensey, son of Earl of Sheffield.
+
+[106] Panorama by Barker, shown in London.
+
+[107] Married Sir Edward Parry, K.C.B., the Arctic navigator, 1826.
+
+[108] Allusions to the characters in "Guy Mannering."
+
+[109] John Scott, painter, 1774-1828.
+
+[110] Hougoumont was occupied by Byng's Brigade, and resisted the
+repeated attacks of the French throughout the battle.
+
+[111] Napoleon's army, on the day of Waterloo, occupied the plateau of
+La Belle Alliance.
+
+[112] A farm occupied by the King's German Legion under Major Baring;
+after a gallant resistance captured by the French at 4 o'clock on June
+18th.
+
+[113] Wellington watched the battle from the shade of an elm-tree, which
+was afterwards sold to an Englishman, who made the wood into boxes and
+sold them as memorials.
+
+[114] General Bertrand, 1773-1844; fought in Egypt and distinguished
+himself at Austerlitz and in the campaigns of Wagram and Moscow. He
+followed Napoleon to Elba and to St. Helena.
+
+[115] Inn at Alderley.
+
+[116] Sir George Scovell, 1774-1861, General. He fought in the Peninsula
+and at Waterloo.
+
+[117] Sir Lowry Cole, second son of first Earl of Enniskillen, General
+of 4th Division at the Battle of Salamanca. He received the thanks of
+both Houses of Parliament for his gallant services in the Peninsula.
+Commanded 6th Division at Waterloo.
+
+[118] Comte d'Artois, afterwards King Charles X.
+
+[119] Daughter of Louis XVI.
+
+[120] Caroline of Naples.
+
+[121] Michael Bruce, one of the Englishmen who helped Lavalette to
+escape from prison. He was known as Lavalette's Bruce. He had previously
+tried to save Ney. Major-General Wilson and Captain Hutchinson were also
+concerned in Lavalette's escape.
+
+[122] Denon (1747-1825), a member of the Academic de Peinture. He made
+sketches in Egypt for Napoleon, quietly finishing them on the
+battlefield. He directed the Emperor what objects of art he should take
+from various countries to enrich the Louvre. Napoleon made him
+Directeur-General of Museums.
+
+[123] Abbe Roch Ambroise Sicard, founder of deaf and dumb school at
+Paris, 1742-1822.
+
+[124] Labedoyere, General (1786-1815). Shot at Grenelle, 1815.
+
+[125] French poet and Academician, 1738-1813.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Before and after Waterloo, by Edward Stanley
+
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author	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-14 19:54:01 -0700
committer	Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org>	2025-10-14 19:54:01 -0700
commit	07ffe260cc86ab1db08f63d617f80df7aee47e78 (patch)
tree	846860643061b9065f6a2427aa49814e13c99f6e