initial commit of ebook 30581HEADmain

13 files changed, 9370 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/30581-8.txt b/30581-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8400ab1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,2924 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Notes in North Africa
+       Being a Guide to the Sportsman and Tourist in Algeria and Tunisia
+
+Author: W. G. Windham
+
+Release Date: December 2, 2009 [EBook #30581]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Dan Horwood and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith. M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+MY TWO SERVANTS, ANGELO AND NERO.]
+
+
+
+
+ NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA:
+
+ BEING A
+ GUIDE TO THE
+ SPORTSMAN AND TOURIST IN ALGERIA AND TUNISIA.
+
+
+ BY
+ W. G. WINDHAM, ESQ.
+
+
+ NEW EDITION, WITH COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+ LONDON:
+ WARD AND LOCK, 158 FLEET STREET.
+ 1862.
+
+
+
+
+ LONDON:
+ PETTER AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE PRINTING WORKS,
+ LUDGATE HILL, E.C.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+Two great faults have been found with my first edition. The first
+was, that I had offended many people by personal allusions. To
+this, I reply, that offence was very far from my mind; and to those
+offended (if any there be), I say, consider the expressions unsaid.
+For the rest, they are omitted in this edition. The second alleged
+defect is, that, while I call my book, to a certain extent, sporting,
+so little allusion is made to sport. I grant there is some reason in
+this, and accordingly I have added matter which I think will be
+useful to future sporting tourists. I would, however, not advise
+the man who seeks sport alone and solely to go to Algeria, as I am
+sure he will be disappointed, as I most decidedly was. With regard to
+the illustrations, I have taken the greatest pains that they may
+faithfully represent, not only the particular localities alluded
+to, but also give a fair idea of the country and climate of these
+latitudes.
+
+    W. G. WINDHAM.
+
+    _Hull, April, 1861._
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                                                TO FACE PAGE
+
+  FRONTISPIECE: MY TWO SERVANTS--ANGELO AND NERO           1
+
+  SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL
+      GREESHE                                             20
+
+  SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF
+      CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA                                44
+
+  HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA,
+      IN TUNISIA                                          60
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+     CHAPTER I.
+
+ THE VOYAGE OUT:--Paris in 1860--Notre Dame--Our
+ Hotel--Nero and the Groom--The Steamer for
+ Algeria--Gallic Peculiarities--Life on Board                   7
+
+     CHAPTER II.
+
+ DESCRIPTION OF ALGIERS:--Arrival in Algeria--Murray's
+ Guide-books, and their Amenities--Disembarkation in
+ the Port of Algiers--Our Fellow-travellers--Algiers and
+ its Inhabitants--The Dey's Palace--Cause of the French
+ Invasion                                                      13
+
+     CHAPTER III.
+
+ LIFE IN ALGIERS:--Algerian Society--A Soirée at
+ General Martinprez's--The Sirocco--My Maltese
+ Companion--The Theatre--General Youssouf and his Career       19
+
+     CHAPTER IV.
+
+ "UP THE COUNTRY:"--Departure from Algiers--Blidah--The
+ Zouave Officers and their Companions--Government
+ Establishment of Horses--Joseph, the Horse-dealer--To
+ Arbah--The Caravanserai--Journey towards Oued-el-Massin       25
+
+     CHAPTER V.
+
+ FURTHER EXPERIENCES:--Abd-el-Kader (but not the
+ Emir)--Difficult Road--Perils of the Way--Prospect of
+ Sport--The First Boar--The Chasseurs d'Afrique--Mine
+ Hostess of the "Scorpion"--Teniet                             30
+
+     CHAPTER VI.
+
+ FURTHER PROGRESS--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES:--Cold
+ Weather--Milianah--Vezoul--The Aubergiste--El
+ Afroun--The Rhamazan--Dancing Dervishes                       36
+
+     CHAPTER VII.
+
+ BONA AND ITS VICINITY:--Passage to Bona--State of
+ Affairs on Board--Bona--The Lake Metitza--Ain
+ Mokra--Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake                         41
+
+     CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ ON TO TUNIS:--Algeria in General--The Arabs and their
+ Conquerors--Antagonism between the Two Races--Social
+ Condition of the Arabs--The _Oasis_ Steamer--Arrival
+ at Tunis                                                      46
+
+     CHAPTER IX.
+
+ MARSA:--Angelo's Horsemanship--The Bey's Palace at
+ Marsa--The Arabs and their Love of Tobacco--The
+ Friendly Moor at Camatte                                      52
+
+     CHAPTER X.
+
+ ABOUT BOAR SHOOTING:--Sleeman--the Oued el Ahwena--Its
+ Scenery, and its Dangers--Beauty of the Landscape on
+ its Banks                                                     55
+
+     CHAPTER XI.
+
+ SPORTING EXPERIENCES:--El Greesh--Shooting Hyenas--An
+ Expedition with the Arabs--The Caid and his
+ Family--Another Wild Boar                                     59
+
+     CHAPTER XII.
+
+ TUNIS AND ITS GOVERNMENT:--Picturesque Situation of
+ Tunis--The Horse Market--Effects of Race--The
+ Bazaars--Mohamed Medea--The Bardo--The Bey of
+ Tunis--His Mode of administering Justice--Prince
+ Puckler Muskau's Account of his Interview                     62
+
+     CHAPTER XIII.
+
+ THE RUINS OF CARTHAGE:--Reflections on Ancient
+ Carthage--Hannibal and his Career--An Arab
+ Domicile--Picturesque Appearance of the Ruins                 69
+
+     CHAPTER XIV.
+
+ THE RUINS AGAIN:--Great Extent of the Ancient City
+ Marsa, on the Sea-shore--Carthaginian Catacombs near
+ Camatte--Quail Shooting--Trait of Honesty in the
+ Arabs--The Arab Character--Anecdotes concerning them          76
+
+     CHAPTER XV.
+
+ HOME:--My Fellow-passenger, the Sportsman--Passage from
+ Tunis to Malta in a Sailing Vessel--Disagreeables of
+ the Passage--Home Overland--Conclusion                        83
+
+ NOTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN OR TOURIST IN NORTH AFRICA            88
+
+
+
+
+NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE VOYAGE OUT.
+
+  Paris in 1860.--Notre Dame.--Our Hotel.--Nero and the Groom.--The
+  Steamer for Algeria.--Gallic Peculiarities.--Life on Board.
+
+
+_In medias res._ I will not stop to describe my journey to Paris, _viâ_
+Folkestone, nor to chronicle the glasses of pale ale--valedictory
+libations to _perfide_ Albion, quaffed at the Pavilion--nor to
+portray the sea-sickness of "mossoo," nor the withering indignation of
+the British female when her wardrobe was searched. Briefly, kind reader,
+be pleased to understand that we arrived in safety--guns, rifles,
+"and all"--at the Hôtel du Louvre, in Paris, at about eleven o'clock
+on a certain day in February, 1860.
+
+The next day was Sunday, and I went to hear vespers at Notre Dame. How
+I love the old gothic cathedrals, that seem to remove one at once from
+this work-day world--the fanes wherein the very air seems redolent of
+devotion, and peopled with phantoms of the past! 'Spite of all
+disparagement, there is something grand and solemn about them. After
+service, I ascended one of the towers to the gallery immortalised by
+Victor Hugo's wonderful romance. The day was declining, and sunset had
+already commenced. The galleries were crowded with students and
+respectable operatives and _bourgeois_, with their wives and children.
+Every face was bathed in the purple light of the departing sun, and
+many eyes lifted up in silent meditation.
+
+I was aroused from the reverie into which the contemplation of this
+glorious sight had thrown me, by hearing a female voice exclaim, "How
+beautiful is Nature--how magnificent!" I turned, and saw two ladies,
+evidently mother and daughter, of sufficiently pleasing appearance. It
+was from the elder that the exclamation had come, which brought me
+back from my dream to this nether world. Conquering the shyness which
+appears to be the Englishman's birthright, I made some remark on the
+beauties of sunset. Like the earth, we revolved round the sun; but,
+unlike that planet, we quickly diverged into other orbits. I dimly
+remember that we talked of Angola cats, Dresden china, Turkish
+chibouques, maccaroni, and Lord Byron, with whose poems this lady
+seemed sufficiently familiar. I improved the occasion, as the right
+thing to do, when talking with ladies about Byron, to find fault with
+his impiety, his blasphemous scepticism, his cutting sarcasm, and the
+unhappy frivolity which defaces the works of the man, who, with all
+his faults, was undoubtedly the greatest poet the nineteenth century
+has yet produced.
+
+A pleasant walk along the quays brought me back to my hotel, in the
+courtyard of which establishment I found an admiring circle of idlers
+surrounding my English groom, who had just arrived with my dog Nero;
+or rather Nero, who seemed by far the most popular character of the
+two, had just arrived with him; and both appeared to know about as
+much French one as the other, and to make themselves equally
+understood or misunderstood. That evening, my friend and travelling
+companion, B---- and I dined at Dotesio's, in the Rue Castiglione,
+where we had an excellent dinner, washed down by more excellent wine.
+The next day found us at Marseilles, at the Hôtel D'Orient, concerning
+which hostelry I have merely to place on record the fact, that B----
+was mulcted in the sum of five francs for the matutinal cold tub in
+which it was his custom to indulge.
+
+The steamer which was to convey us to Algeria was well fitted up in
+every way. We were the only Englishmen on board. The fore part of the
+deck was crowded with Zouaves and French soldiers of various
+denominations, with whom Nero soon made himself perfectly at home,
+though the exclamation of a Zouave on his first appearance seemed to
+forbode but an indifferent reception for the four-footed intruder.
+"_Cré nom d'un chien_" cried the shaven, fez-capped warrior, "_mais
+je ne t'aimerais pas pour mon camarade du lit!_"
+
+Breakfast was served in French fashion on board at ten o'clock, and
+dinner at five. With one or two exceptions, the company consisted of
+French commercial travellers, and they were split up into the usual
+hostile factions of north against south. North, of course, commenced
+the conversation with Paris, _Paris_, and again PAR-RRI; the
+southerners every now and then throwing in a doubt of the universal
+superiority of the metropolis over the known world. One disputant
+stood out for Marseilles, another broke a lance for Bordeaux, and the
+war of words waxed so fierce that I began to tremble for the
+consequences. One young man in company had been some time at Bordeaux,
+and had much to say thereon; but all his remarks were on one
+subject--the theatre. On its beauty, its luxury, and its actresses, he
+held forth at unwearied but wearisome length.
+
+While this conversation was going on, the inner man was by no
+means neglected. Stewed pullets, potatoes, salad, and etceteras,
+disappeared with marvellous celerity. The cheer was by no means
+bad, though decidedly Provençal, as I remarked to my next neighbour,
+a dark-looking Marsellais; which observation, by the way, brought
+down upon me the anger of the Gods, as impersonated by a large, fat,
+dirty Calaisien, sitting opposite. He was a big man, this champion,
+and, according to Cervantes, should, by consequence, have been a
+good-natured one. Giving himself a sounding blow on the chest for
+emphasis, he declared the Calaisiens to be an infinitely more moral
+people than the Marseillais--and washed down his own dictum with an
+enormous glass of _bière blanche_. I am rather fond of going to sleep
+after dinner; so I secured my nap on cheap terms, by feigning an
+interest in the Picard virtues, and accordingly enjoyed a profound
+rest, disturbed only at intervals by a monotonous and expostulatory
+"_allons donc!_" thrown in by another dissentient southerner. He
+was an enormously fat man, the new disputant, and wore a mass of very
+greasy hair, hanging down over his shoulders. His flannel shirt, an
+exceedingly dingy specimen of British manufacture, did duty for a
+waistcoat also; but he was _decoré_, though it was very doubtful to
+what order the medal on his breast may have belonged.
+
+Our captain merits a word of description. He was a short, red-faced
+individual, of such ineffable seediness, as regarded costume, that I
+should never have suspected his station but for the fact that he
+sported a gold band "_bien usité_" round his cap, and sat at the head
+of the table. For the credit of French politeness be it, however,
+added, he was a perfect gentleman in his behaviour throughout the
+voyage. There was also a young French naval officer, whom I afterwards
+got to know much better in Algeria. He, too, like all the Legitimists,
+was a most finished gentleman, and spoke English well--a common
+accomplishment among the officers of the French navy. Though quite a
+young fellow, he had been in the Russian and Chinese wars, and
+imparted some very amusing and instructive intelligence on both these
+subjects.
+
+As the noise and the intimacy at the table increased, and the punch
+and cognac had already "chased" the wine, I adjourned with B---- and
+the French sailor to the after-deck, and, in company with two young
+Dutch travellers, smoked our Havanas in a climate that was already
+African in its heat, while Majorca and Minorca faded away in the
+distance, and the pale moon rose silently over the quiet sea.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF ALGIERS.
+
+  Arrival in Algeria.--Murray's Guide-books, and their
+  Amenities.--Disembarkation in the Port of Algiers.--Our
+  Fellow-travellers.--Algiers and its Inhabitants.--The Dey's
+  Palace.--Cause of the French Invasion.
+
+
+Next morning, at eight o'clock, came the waiter with the
+intelligence--"_Nous sommes dans la baie d'Alger, monsieur, à une
+heure de la ville._" My desire to see Algiers was vehement indeed; but
+scarcely less strong was the craving of the inner man for bread and
+coffee. With the nectar of Arabia, however, the inspiration of the
+Orient seemed to percolate my veins; but when a fragrant glass of
+cognac crowned the meal, the aroma of the East enveloped me, the
+delicious strains of Bulbul rang in my ears, the Calaisien and the
+Marseillais, sitting stolidly before me, became straightway
+transformed into camels, the stewardess into a houri, and the noses of
+the passengers were as masques in my enraptured sight.
+
+But the book at my side was not the Koran, though it might have been,
+for the strange farrago it contained.
+
+It was a celebrated traveller's manual in the English language, and
+in red binding. The king of the Cannibal Islands has not in his
+library a more absurd volume than this manual; for in its pages
+pathetic bagmen give vent to their ludicrous ebullitions concerning
+the Alhambra, or the Rhine, or any foreign lion you please to name;
+and young boys just escaped from school dish up their first
+impressions of the Continent in a style as savoury as the flavour of a
+Spanish olla podrida. And yet, ascend the Rhine, go to Venice or to
+St. Petersburg, and ten to one for the chance, that when you meet an
+Englishman he will have that eternal manual clutched in his British
+grasp.
+
+Oh, my dear and well-beloved countrymen, what creatures of fashion and
+precedent we all are, from high to low! What one does, the rest must
+do; and in the self-same manner. I verily believe, if the late Albert
+Smith had left it on record that, in ascending Mont Blanc, he planted
+his foot in a certain hole in the snow, every one of his successors in
+that glorious undertaking would have paid their guides an extra dollar
+for indicating to them the identical cavity, that they might go and do
+likewise. Thank goodness, Algeria is as yet encumbered by no manual or
+"Hand-book," as our modern Germanised phraseology elects to call the
+egregious productions; so shall we travellers be at liberty to follow
+our own noses, to go exactly where we like, and to do what we please,
+even to dressing like Arabs, should the whim seize us. Moreover, we
+may do in Rome as Rome does, and enjoy a French breakfast washed down
+with good wine in lieu of bad tea, without having ourselves or our
+proceedings stigmatised as "shocking," as would undoubtedly be our lot
+at Paris, or Brussels, or Berlin.
+
+Behold us, then, in happy hour, ready to disembark in Algiers, with
+the children of the desert thronging on board to act as porters. Their
+appearance pleases me much, as they come forward, with their tall,
+striking figures, dark eyes, and distinguished mien. "Perfect
+gentlemen, these," said I to myself; but beneath the outside crust
+little remains that can be called gratifying. These men are like the
+apple of Sodom; at least, so I thought on landing, after a long
+squabble with them respecting the passage money, carried on in bad
+Italian and French. A nearer acquaintance with them may, perhaps,
+modify my views on this subject.
+
+"Well, it has been a pleasant time on board the packet," is my parting
+reflection as I step ashore; nor shall I lightly forget the captain,
+so different in his politeness and urbanity from the sea-bear with
+whom I sailed in the North Sea; nor the honest Hamburgher, who
+appeared to have an equally beloved wife in every land and in every
+place we came to; nor the would-be dandy, who lit cigars innumerable,
+and invariably flung them overboard after the first puff; nor the
+priests, who seemed to possess the gift of invisibility, so rarely did
+they show themselves; nor the hundred thousand events and personages
+that flash upon our path for a moment on our journey through life, and
+then linger in the memory only as the dim phantoms of a dream that has
+passed away.
+
+Algiers, seen from the sea, presents the appearance of a vast
+triangular cone, situated on the slope of a mountain. Like all the
+inhabitants of Northern Africa, the Algerians were at an early period
+Christians, and it was only after several battles that the Mahometan
+religion was finally established all over the coast of Barbary. Before
+the French occupation, the Algerian ladies, like the females in all
+Mussulmen countries, were kept in the strictest seclusion. The wife of
+a rich Moor never left her home except to go to the baths, and even
+that expedition was undertaken only at night. When it became
+absolutely necessary that ladies should go abroad in daylight, their
+faces were covered, and the whole figure so concealed by a redundancy
+of wrappings, that a stranger would be puzzled to find out what the
+moving bundles were. The luxury of the bath is greatly used by them.
+There are public as well as private baths. They consist of three
+apartments. The first is a large hall, for dressing and undressing; in
+the second, the visitors perspire; and the third is for bathing
+proper, or otherwise, as tastes and opinions somewhat differ. After
+the bath, those of the male sex repair to the first room for lemonade
+or coffee, or for a pipe. The modern Mahometan ladies of Algiers have
+almost abandoned this seclusion. They are seen gadding about
+everywhere, and are reported as being by no means particular or
+difficult in their conquests. French ideas and morals have percolated
+them considerably. Excessive obesity is regarded among Mahometans as
+the perfection of beauty; so that, instead of using powders and other
+nostrums to reduce themselves, like some of my friends at home, they
+devour seeds and _couscous_, the national dish, especially employed
+for fattening people. Some young ladies are crammed to such a degree
+that they die under the operation.
+
+On a fine, hot day in February, 1860, I mounted the conical hill on
+which Algiers is built. The weather was magnificent. The sun of Africa
+already made his approach felt, and the mountains in the far horizon
+stood out like _bas-reliefs_ against the azure sky. Here stood the
+palace of the Dey before the French occupation. The building is now
+called the _casbah_, and used as a large barrack; outside are the
+Moorish houses, and the chief part of the Moorish population.
+
+The cause of quarrel between France and Algeria, which resulted in the
+conquest of the country by the Gallic legions was as follows:--The
+Dey, a pasha of the old Turkish school, was, it appears, a potentate
+of extravagant disposition, and owed the French Government a
+considerable sum of money. The creditors, being in a hurry for their
+cash, dunned the Dey incessantly, through the agency of their consul.
+Unaccustomed to the eagerness of French importunity, the Dey, on one
+unlucky occasion, made a gesture of impatience with his fan, as a man
+might do with his riding-whip, if his tailor became too pressing for
+the settlement of his account. It proved an expensive gesture,
+however; for within a few weeks it brought 10,000 French soldiers to
+the shores of the Dey, and cost him his entire realm. The bulk of the
+Mauresque and Turkish population quitted Algeria with their families
+on the arrival of the French. Those who remain are the poorer classes,
+and now live, if report speaks true, in an immoral state. These events
+took place in the reign of that peaceful monarch, Louis Philippe.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+LIFE IN ALGIERS.
+
+  Algerian Society.--A _Soirée_ at General Martinprez's.--The
+  Sirocco.--My Maltese Companion.--The Theatre.--General Youssouf
+  and Career.
+
+
+I have described Algiers as being built on the side of a mountain.
+The city possesses a commodious and safe harbour, where flutter
+the colours of every nation, from the red flag of the Swede to
+the Spaniard's yellow ensign. Economy of space being a primary
+consideration in the laying out of the city, the houses have been
+built very high, and the streets made very narrow, so that there
+is no room for carriages. The Consul has a very fine Mauresque
+house in the old Turkish quarter, where he invited me to dinner and
+a _soirée_ the day after my arrival; and the next day I was invited
+to the reception of the Governor, General Martinprez.
+
+The General received me and my companions most graciously, and, after
+keeping me in conversation for about five minutes, introduced me to
+his lady, a very pleasing person. My friend A---- and I were then
+introduced to two or three other fashionable ladies of Algiers; and,
+engrossed in conversation with these; we strangers were unconscious
+of a general movement of the gentlemen towards the farther end of the
+room, as a preliminary to the amateur concert. I was quite ignorant of
+this Algerian regulation, by which the gentlemen and ladies are
+separated as effectually as in a Lutheran church (a fashion,
+by-the-bye, we appear to be adopting). Accordingly, on looking up, I
+observed, to my infinite chagrin, that I was the "observed of all
+observers," and probably was set down as a _bête Anglais_, who knew no
+better. The extensive crinoline of the ladies effectually prevented a
+retreat in any direction, and I was unpleasantly conscious of the
+suppressed titter the fair ones tried to conceal behind their fans. I
+endeavoured to summon up all the resources of my London phlegm, to
+support me in this ridiculous position; but, unfortunately, I possess
+very little of that desirable quality. The fair one with whom I was
+conversing evidently felt for the unpleasantness of my situation, and
+very good-naturedly kept me talking till the end of the first piece,
+when I succeeded in making my escape.
+
+How I inwardly abused the opera they were performing! It was called
+"_Le Diable_;" and to me it appeared as though the fiend in question
+had no tail--or rather, _no end_--to that appendage, so long did the
+time seem. Far be it from me to despise the arts; I admire them in
+every shape, except in the compound form of speech: _exempli gratiâ_,
+art-union, art-school, &c. Why, in the name of common sense, can we
+not talk English instead of German, and say school of arts, union of
+arts, &c.? I suppose we shall soon go a step farther in imitation of
+our Germanic neighbours, and call poetry by the appellation of
+poet-art. In the last century, it seemed likely, as Johnson said, that
+we should babble a dialect of France; in this, there is more danger of
+our talking a Teutonic jargon. Let us stick to the middle course--for
+our language is essentially half way between the German and the
+French, the Teutonic and Romance tongues, and any attempt to
+approximate too much to either extreme is simply preposterous.
+
+The next day we had the sirocco; and, to quote the expression with
+which I once heard a popular preacher commence a sermon, it was
+"d----d hot." Start not, ladies of Belgravia, for the preacher in
+question belonged not to the Anglican communion; he held forth to mere
+vulgar audiences, at least, in a remote locality. Thrice he repeated
+the expression (which I will not), and then improved the occasion by
+describing a place hotter than the crowded chapel in which he was
+officiating, in the month of July. He was evidently in his element. He
+was especially hot against those modern spirits, who are not such
+faithful believers in the burning flames of the lower regions, and
+even begin to imagine they may have cooled down, if they have not been
+quite extinguished. "And if"--he cried, in his ardour--"if they were
+on the point of being extinguished, I would with my own breath
+rekindle the expiring flame!" And his voice, which sounded like a gale
+of wind, and his face, red as a furnace, and his enormous fists
+fiercely clenched, made it appear to the congregation, for the moment,
+that this terrifying assertion was no exaggeration. But to return to
+the sirocco.
+
+In spite, or rather by reason of the heat, I went for a stroll on the
+sea-shore with Nero, that we might cool our wearied limbs in the azure
+wave of the Mediterranean. We had been walking along the shore for
+about a mile, when about twenty Arab dogs rushed out most ferociously
+at Nero, and would, I believe, have torn him to pieces, but for the
+large hunting-whip with which I managed to keep them at bay. There was
+with me a young Maltese boy, of Irish parentage--a most amusing
+character this urchin was. He wanted me to take him into the interior
+as my interpreter. "Take me wid you, sir," was his eloquent appeal;
+"give me pound a month, sir; tell Arabs you brother of Queen Victoria,
+sir; Arabs great fools, sir; know no better, sir;" but I was proof
+against the voice of the charmer.
+
+In returning, I met General Martinprez on horseback, and saluted; of
+course, he returned my greeting most graciously. But I was not a
+little amused, and could hardly help laughing, when the young
+Hiberno-Maltese tatterdemalion took off his dirty cap with a flourish
+to the General, simultaneously with my salute, as if he had been my
+confidential friend, taking a promenade with me.
+
+That evening I went to the theatre. The piece performed was "_Les
+Femmes Terribles_"--and a terribly Gallic flavour there was diffused
+over the whole performance--a kind of _haut goût_, for which we stolid
+islanders have, happily, no relish.
+
+General Youssouf was at the theatre this evening. He is rather a
+fine-looking man, and not too stout. His is a curious history.
+Originally a Christian slave at Tunis, supposed to be the son of
+Italian parents, he received the name of Youssouf (Joseph) from his
+Mussulman masters at Tunis, where he was employed in the Bey's palace.
+Of fine stature and handsome appearance, the Christian slave soon
+attracted the notice of the Bey's daughter, an honour to which he was
+not insensible. The Bey was soon informed of what was going on, and
+Joseph would have been caged, if not racked, had not some kind friend
+apprised him of the discovery, and of his own consequent danger. A
+French man-of-war happened to be in the harbour at La Goeletta, off
+Tunis, and young Youssouf, then about twenty years of age, managed to
+effect his escape on board. The Franks, of course, gladly received him
+as an escaped Christian slave. The Bey sent to demand him back; but
+the French commander gave him politely to understand that he would see
+the Bey experiencing the reverse of the joys of Paradise before he
+would comply with such a request. The vessel set sail next day for
+Algiers, where the Gallic occupation had just commenced. Young
+Youssouf--who, in addition to his knowledge of French and Italian,
+could, of course, speak Arabic perfectly--was here landed, and became
+interpreter to a foot regiment. Quick and clever, he was soon
+promoted, till he attained an officer's rank. He is now a general in
+the service. Entertaining--perhaps naturally--a mortal hatred of the
+Arabs, he has generally been selected to enforce those stern acts of
+reprisal against the native population, which, though perhaps
+justified by necessity, still bear the impress of great severity, and
+are unpalatable to officers of French birth and education. These
+measures he has always carried out with strict fidelity and
+unrelenting harshness. He was the centre of attraction this
+evening--every battery of eyes was turned upon him. He had fought a
+duel with the editor of a newspaper, only that morning, for abusing
+him or his wife, and had succeeded in running the journalist through
+the shoulder.
+
+The next few days I was engaged in making purchases, chiefly of shot
+and necessary travelling articles, for the interior. I was swimming my
+dog in the water of the port, according to my daily custom, when I
+stumbled on my servant, Angelo, whom I determined to take with me into
+the interior. Besides English, which he spoke very well, he could talk
+Arabic quite fluently, and I found him very useful.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+"UP THE COUNTRY."
+
+  Departure from Algiers.--Blidah.--The Zouave Officers and their
+  Companions.--Government Establishment of Horses.--Joseph, the
+  Horse-dealer.--To Arbah.--The Caravanserai.--Journey towards
+  Oued-el-Massin.
+
+
+On Thursday, March 8th, after seeing A---- start, by diligence, with
+innumerable bags of cheviotine (deer-shot), I and Angelo left Algiers
+with my newly-purchased horses, and, passing through some very pretty
+country, stopped at the first village, where De Warn, a French
+officer, came up on horseback, with his groom. He admired my horses
+very much, and announced his destination to be the Maison Carrée,
+where he was going to shoot quails, a friend of his having bagged
+forty there in one afternoon. It came on to rain very hard as we
+passed through the plain of the Medidja, and arrived at Bouffaseh,
+where there is a column raised to the memory of twenty-three men
+killed there during the war. We galloped in to Blidah, the rain
+pouring down on us. At dinner, I met A---- in a _café_, with Count
+L'Esparre and three or four officers of the 1st Regiment of Zouaves.
+They were a very pleasant set of fellows, but did not appear to admire
+their remote quarters at Blidah by any means. The heat, during the
+height of summer, they informed me, was terrific, and the private
+soldiers are not allowed to quit their quarters between 10 A.M. and 5
+P.M. during the four hottest months of the year. We drank unlimited
+punch to the "Alliance," and, on returning to the hotel, after a
+mutual exchange of good wishes, we found familiar faces--belonging to
+the Dutchmen who had travelled with us from Marseilles to Algiers.
+
+I went with Count L'Esparre to see the Government establishment of
+horses. There were some very fine creatures of Arab breed; also some
+Persian horses which had been presented by the Shah of Persia. We then
+started on horseback for Medea, and on my way passed the "Grotto of
+Monkeys," but none of the animals from which the grotto takes its name
+met my inquiring gaze. The Rocher Pourri, which I also passed on my
+way, had just acquired an additional but a lugubrious celebrity, an
+Arab having killed a Frenchman there the day before. We rode on to
+Medea through a rattling snow-storm, and arrived properly powdered at
+the Hôtel du Gastronome, where they made us comfortable enough. Medea
+is built in a very elevated situation, among the mountains, and must
+be a very cold place.
+
+On the next day, Saturday, it was still snowing hard. A---- had to
+provide himself with a horse, and we were afterwards both engaged,
+with Angelo, my Maltese servant, looking for mules to carry our
+baggage to Teniet. At the hotel, there was a very celebrated picture
+by Horace Vernet, for which one of the Dutchmen offered a thousand
+francs, but the offer was declined by Madame Gerard. In my opinion,
+the picture was far from being a masterpiece.
+
+Rising early on Sunday, I was immediately pounced upon by a set of
+Arabs, who had engaged to take our luggage, and to whom we had paid a
+deposit in advance. They now refused to take our luggage at five
+francs per day, the sum agreed upon, unless we retained their valuable
+services all the time we remained at Teniet, which, of course, we
+never contemplated doing. I demanded back the deposit, but they would
+not give it up. On going to the Bureau Arabe, we found it closed, and
+the Commandant de Ville, to whom some officers recommended us to
+apply, was gone to Blidah, so there was nothing for it but to invoke
+the aid of Joseph, a French horse-dealer, who engaged to take our
+effects on two mules to Teniet at seven and a half francs per mule per
+day, we paying the return journey. After all, we could not manage to
+get off until one o'clock in the day. Joseph accompanied us as far as
+Lodi, to indicate the route to the caravanserai of Arbah, where we
+were to stay for the night. The good horse-dealer insisted on our
+taking two or three _petits verres_ on the road. A terrible fellow he
+was for "nips," that Joseph.
+
+The road to Arbah lay across a very barren, desert, mountainous
+country, with splendid views over the whole Atlas range, as far as
+Mostaganem, now covered with snow. We passed one or two Arab villages,
+and had great difficulty in finding our way, on account of the number
+of roads that branched off right and left. On the journey we passed a
+very fine house belonging to a rich Arab chief. We were sorely tempted
+to turn in here, but refrained, and arriving at the caravanserai at
+about seven o'clock, found a party of French officers just sitting
+down to dinner. They very politely invited us to join them.
+
+The caravanserai is a Government establishment. In form it resembles a
+large farm yard, entirely walled in and crenellated. It has stalls for
+horses, and good accommodation for European travellers. A large fair
+is held here every Wednesday, chiefly for the sale of native horses.
+We had a long and interesting talk with the officers, and then retired
+to bed, but not to sleep, for our baggage had not arrived, and the
+bitter cold kept us in a state of enforced watchfulness.
+
+Before breakfast, next day, I walked out on a tour of inspection
+through the neighbourhood. The caravanserai is situated almost in the
+desert; and very cold and barren are its surroundings. During
+breakfast, we were rejoiced by the arrival of our baggage, and at once
+started for Ouad-el-Massin. There is a very grand sensation of
+solitude and silence in riding through these vast plains. The weather
+was still tremendously cold and rainy. I managed to shoot two
+partridges as we came along.
+
+A chapter of accidents now began. My Maltese servant had been mistaken
+concerning the capacity of our mules; for they broke down, and we were
+obliged to leave them behind. Then my horse, an exceedingly vicious
+brute, nearly succeeded in appropriating a piece of Angelo's shoulder,
+as the latter stooped to tighten the girths. I found afterwards that
+my steed had a very bad character all over the country; his ill fame,
+however, was slightly redeemed by the fact that he was a good goer.
+Then we missed our way among the mountains, and with difficulty
+succeeded, just as it was getting dark, in reaching a small house at
+Guebla, kept by a Frenchman. The proprietor received us very
+hospitably, and gave us all the accommodation he could: it was of
+rather a limited character, inasmuch as we all slept together in the
+small room where we dined and breakfasted. Our host informed us that
+there were a great number of lions in the neighbourhood. He had
+himself been surprised by one, just after dusk, on the road from
+Milianca, and offered to induce the Caid of the adjoining tribe to get
+up a battue on our return. He also spoke of the great number of wild
+boars in a way that would make a hunter's heart leap within him. We
+retired to rest, and, sheltered for the nonce from the searching cold,
+I slept as only a weary traveller can.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+FURTHER EXPERIENCES.
+
+  Abd-el-Kader (but not the Emir).--Difficult Road.--Perils of the
+  Way.--Prospect of Sport.--The First Boar.--The Chasseurs
+  d'Afrique.--Mine Hostess of the "Scorpion."--Teniet.
+
+
+In the hope of obtaining some reliable information as to hunting
+prospects, I had in the Caid's lieutenant a fine-looking fellow,
+rejoicing in the famous name of Abd-el-Kader, though he was no
+relation to the renowned chief. He gave a long description of the
+capture of a boar, that had been wounded by some Arabs; how he caught
+the brute by the hoofs, gagged it, and brought it home alive. Mr.
+----, he also informed us, had been surprised, about a month before,
+by a lion, as he was returning at dusk from Milianah. There were many
+lions in the vicinity, he added; and promised that his friend the Caid
+should treat us to a lion-hunt on our return, if we came back this
+way.
+
+Then we started, Abd-el-Kader accompanying us to show us a short
+way over the mountains to the caravanserai of Oued-el-Massin, where
+we were to pass the night, and expected to find our luggage. We
+were prepared to find the river very high, and our anticipations were
+not deceived. Abd-el-Kader admonished me to wait on the bank while
+he went in to try if there was any getting through. He returned and
+asked if my horse was good, and if I was willing to follow him. On
+receiving my affirmative answer, he told me to fix my eyes on the
+opposite shore, and, above all things, to abstain from looking at
+the water, which was tearing along at a tremendous rate; if I
+neglected his instructions, I should infallibly be carried away and
+drowned. I started, and, by dint of spurring, managed to get
+across, though my horse plunged up to his shoulder, and at one
+moment I thought I was a "gone coon." Abd-el-Kader, the undaunted,
+then went back once more for the second horse, which he dragged
+across in due time by the bridle. Then he pointed out to us the road
+over the mountain to Oued-el-Massin; nor did he think it derogatory to
+his dignity to accept a reward for the trouble he had taken on our
+behalf.
+
+In spite of the valiant lieutenant's directions, the road was a very
+difficult one to find. After wandering about in the forest through a
+number of out-of-the-way paths, we managed at last to stumble on an
+Arab house or two, where the promise of a supply of powder prevailed
+with an Arab, and he piloted us down to the caravanserai, where we
+arrived at about six P.M., wet to the skin, and weary with a most
+fatiguing day's march. We found our luggage had preceded us by about
+half an hour; so we had a change of clothes, and sat down gleefully to
+a capital dinner in very comfortable quarters. These caravanserais are
+a famous institution. They are built by the French Government for the
+convenience of travellers, and are very well organised. Each one is
+under the superintendence of a Frenchman, and has one part devoted to
+Europeans and another to Arabs. We had an excellent sitting-room and
+bed-room to ourselves, and, as may be supposed, were exceedingly
+comfortable.
+
+Wednesday, the 14th of March, was ushered in by a pouring rain; and we
+received the agreeable intelligence that the river between this and
+our next station was perfectly impassable; so we made up our minds to
+stay where we were. There was some consolation in the thought that
+Joseph, the exceedingly keen horse-dealer at Medea, will not be
+entitled to charge extra for the delay to his mules, he having bound
+himself, by solemn covenant, to deliver the baggage safely at Teniet
+for a certain stipulated sum.
+
+After breakfast I walked into the forest which surrounds the
+caravanserai on all sides, and shot two or three brace of red-legged
+partridges and a woodcock. I saw the traces of several wild boars;
+they were evidently quite recent; also a wretched porcupine the Arabs
+had killed.
+
+In the course of the day the Arabs brought in a boar which they had
+killed in the morning. They threw the entrails outside the house, and,
+during the night, quite an army of jackals came down to devour them.
+It was so dark that we could not get a shot at these African
+scavengers, though I sallied out once or twice after them.
+
+It rained all night, so that going on was out of the question, from
+the swollen state of the river; so I walked off before breakfast, with
+Angelo, to an Arab village, about a mile and a half distant, to
+inquire about boars. The promise of some powder brought out the
+inhabitants; and, after a little banter and chaffing, they agreed to
+meet me after breakfast, and to show me one of those animals. So I
+returned to the caravanserai to breakfast, and then, with my friend,
+rode back to the Arab huts. We left our horses at the village, and
+proceeded to climb a horribly steep hill in company with some of the
+natives, to whom I had promised tobacco-money, on condition of being
+brought face to face with a boar. After some tremendously steep
+climbing, we came upon a number of recent tracks, one of which B----
+followed with his Arab, while I remained in another gorge. Presently I
+heard a shot fired, about a mile off; and, on returning to where the
+horses were tethered, I found that B---- and his Arab had succeeded in
+discovering a boar. The Arab had fired at the brute at twenty paces,
+but missed his aim. It was now past five o'clock, so we returned to
+the caravanserai to dinner. Some Chasseurs d'Afrique had arrived in
+the interim. Their captain joined us in our room, and promised us an
+escort for the morrow. He was from Boulogne-sur-Mer, and spoke English
+pretty well. He told us we should have to start at six in the morning
+to cross the river.
+
+Accordingly, next morning the Frenchman set out at six o'clock with
+his troops and traps, leaving a dragoon behind as an escort for us,
+but with the important qualification that the man might only stay one
+hour behind the rest, as he must be present on the arrival of the
+troop at Teniet. "_Et maintenant_," quoth this bold warrior, "_je vais
+me servir d'un peu de votre tabac, s'il vous plait, car je vois que
+votre blague est bien garni;_" and, filling his pipe, he vanished,
+with a polite "_Au revoir, messieurs_!"
+
+Feeling too tired to rise at seven for the sake of escort, especially
+as we had not a very long journey before us, I remained comfortably
+for breakfast, and B---- started alone. After a good meal, I set out
+with Angelo, and we forced our way through a densely-wooded country,
+till we came upon the obstacle which had lost us two days--the river
+Klebah. This stream we managed with some difficulty to cross; a
+Frenchman, who emerged from the auberge on the other side, assisting
+us, by his advice, as to the best spot to choose for our passage.
+B---- and the trooper had just finished breakfast in the auberge, and
+departed. The landlady of the "Scorpion," a very chatty and amusing
+personage, insisted upon it that I was a German. She favoured me with
+a sporting anecdote, setting forth how she had killed three rabbits
+during an expedition to pick some rose laurier on the hills. As the
+bunnies popped their noses out of their holes, she had managed to pop
+them off with the branches. As this was the only house to be met with
+on that day's journey, I halted there for half an hour. Mine hostess
+related how an "English milord" had stayed there for six months with
+his wife, in a tent, without even a servant--"_Qu'ils sont drôles ces
+Anglais!_" was the landlady's final comment; and it was not for me to
+contradict the oft-repeated sentiment.
+
+Through a mountainous and most barren country, amid a pelting
+snow-storm, we wended onwards to Teniet. In my way from El Massin to
+the "Scorpion," I might almost have knocked over several partridges
+with my whip, so close did they come; but here there were none to be
+seen, nor was there any cover that might shelter them. At a miserable
+auberge called "_les Cèdres_," I found B----.
+
+The fort at Teniet is a fine edifice, in a commanding position. I went
+up and left my letter of introduction for Captain Camatte, who gave us
+very small hope of sport. He did not seem very keen on the subject,
+and advised us to try some other place, offering to give us
+recommendations, &c. I returned to a most miserable room, where we
+could hardly sit, so much were we annoyed by the smoke from the fire;
+we could scarcely decide which was hardest to bear, the smoke within,
+or the cold without. With a hearty laugh at the absurdity of coming to
+such a place as Teniet in search of game, and with a determination to
+set out on our return the next day, we betook ourselves to an early
+bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+FURTHER PROGRESS.--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.
+
+  Cold Weather.--Milianah.--Vezoul.--The Aubergiste.--El Afroun.--The
+  Rhamazan.--Dancing Dervishes.
+
+
+In order to avoid the trouble of carrying our ammunition back with us,
+we sold the greater portion of it. The snow lay four or five inches
+deep in the road; we sent to the commandant to procure us mules and
+other necessaries, and set out, with a snow-storm beating down upon
+us, and the cold as sharp as it well could be. At the "Scorpion" we
+refreshed ourselves with coffee, and then re-crossed the river, which
+was scarcely fordable; we got to El Massin about six o'clock; the
+brigadier told us he had shot a hyena. Some capital wild boar they
+gave us for dinner, seemed to be an earnest of our return to sporting
+latitudes. At half-past seven next morning, we emerged from the
+caravanserai. The weather seemed at last, after a long season of
+inclemency, to have set in for heat. "_Le temps s'est remis a neuf_,"
+observed Mr. Ball; and it had changed with a vengeance, so far as the
+temperature was concerned. Terribly hot we found it, marching across
+the Milianah plain. We crossed the Djelish in a bac, or flying
+bridge, and reached Afreville about ten o'clock. Leaving B---- and
+Angelo to proceed to Medea, I went on to Milianah, where I arrived at
+about twelve o'clock. While waiting there for my baggage, I noticed
+some Arab boys playing at a game closely resembling hockey. Milianah
+is a very strong fort, with a splendid view over the Atlas mountains
+and the plain of the Djelish. I stopped at the Cat or Du-chat stables,
+appropriately kept by Mr. Duchat-_el_, and found that it was too late
+to stop at any place on the road to Blidah.
+
+I took a walk through the town, and on the Grande Place found a number
+of soldiers singing a chorus very creditably, without instrumental
+accompaniment. They perform in this manner every Sunday. The view over
+the plain of the Djelish is one of the most splendid I ever beheld,
+not excepting that from the Alhambra itself. I was told I could easily
+get to Blidah in a day on horseback, from Milianah, so I determined to
+stay at the Hôtel d'Iffly, a very comfortable place. At dinner I met
+Mostyn and Captain Ross, just arrived from Algiers, per diligence.
+Captain R----, who is in the Bengal Artillery, told me he thought the
+French used the natives much better than we do those of India. I
+differ from him. One of the French officers with whom I dined told me
+the only way to manage the "Indigènes" was by that vigorous measure,
+"_un coup de fouet_," and, from what I saw, I believe it to be the
+case.
+
+On Monday, the 19th, I left Milianah at about half-past seven, and
+rode through splendid Pyreneean scenery to Vezoul, a French village.
+The aubergiste took me for a German, and announced that he had two
+German workmen staying with him, who spoke with the same accent I
+used. When I repudiated my Teutonic nationality, he met me with the
+remark: "_Enfin, c'est le même sang rouge qui coule dans nos veines,
+que nous soyons Anglais, Français, ou Allemands;_" to which undeniable
+proposition I rejoined, "_Oui, c'est vrai nous sommes tous Européens
+ici._" I fed my horse here, and came on, over the mountains, under a
+very hot sun, to Bourkikah, where I entered the Medidja plain. On
+entering this plain, the traveller enjoys a magnificent view right
+onward to sea, gleaming miles away in the sunny haze. At Bourkikah, my
+horse was so tired, that I was obliged to take off the saddle-bags,
+and leave them at the "Bureau des Diligences," to be forwarded. Some
+French officers at the hotel assured me I should not be able to get to
+Blidah, and recommended me strongly to stay at El Afroun, "_chez les
+Petits Frères_," if I found my horse too tired to proceed. I rode
+determinedly on through the plain, but could scarcely get my horse to
+move by dint of whip or spur. By the time I had crossed the river into
+El Afroun, I found my horse so entirely knocked up, that it was
+clearly impossible to proceed. So, of necessity, I turned into the
+auberge, and had a very good dinner, enlivened by a serenade from a
+legion of frogs, croaking dolefully in the neighbouring marshes.
+
+Getting away from El Afroun by six o'clock next morning, I found
+myself at Blidah by half-past seven. The cavalry horses were just
+turning out on the plains, and looked very handsome as I rode into the
+town. At Blidah, where I breakfasted, the sun was hot enough to burn
+my face in a most unequivocal manner, and to necessitate the purchase
+of a new hat. On arriving at Bouffanieh, I got off my horse, which by
+this time had fairly fallen lame, and took the diligence into Algiers.
+At Bouffanieh I was much amused at the proceedings of a group of
+Arabs, who were squatting on the ground, selling oranges. Their first
+customer was a drunken Frenchman, who came staggering up, and began
+chaffing the vendors; but they evidently got the better of him in no
+time, and he retired in confusion. Next came a grave, steady-looking
+Spaniard, who, after much bargaining, marched off with _one_ orange.
+He was followed by a little girl, who very quickly got hold of three.
+I thought Algiers improved on a second view.
+
+Next day I went for a ride to the Maison Carrée, with De Warne and
+Captain Thouars, of the _Euphrates_. We had a most magnificent view
+over the plain of the Metidja. This was the first night of the
+Rhamazan. I visited the mosques, which have been thrown open to
+Europeans since the French occupation. Thence I proceeded to view a
+strange religious or fanatic ceremony of the Mussulmans; some Swedish
+naval officers were with us. The whole affair reminded me of a meeting
+of Jumpers, or Ranters. There are no priests to take part in it. The
+men stand round in a circle, reciting prayers to Allah, and calling on
+Mahomet, while they work their bodies violently backwards and
+forwards, till they lash themselves into a state of perfect frenzy.
+One fanatic more zealous than the rest then rushes forward, cuts
+himself with a knife, and stands on the sharp edge of the weapon,
+which is held by another. The chaunt or psalm is then renewed, and
+another devotee comes forward howling; snatches a portion of prickly
+pear, and actually devours it ravenously. Then another exceedingly
+zealous performer--whose face, by the way, reminded me strangely of
+the portraits of Disraeli in _Punch_--seized some red-hot coals, and
+held them in his mouth for a time, afterwards proceeding to swallow
+lighted pipes, and execute other salamandrine feats. After witnessing
+this spectacle of degradation for some time, we retired, somewhat
+disgusted at the buffooneries perpetrated in this country, as
+elsewhere, in the name of religion.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+BONA AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+  Passage to Bona.--State of Affairs on Board.--Bona.--The Lake
+  Metitza.--Ain Mokra.--Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake.
+
+
+We bade adieu to B----, who had given us letters of recommendation to
+the Admiral, for a first-class cabin to Bona--a thing difficult to
+achieve on board the steamers here, as civilians are only allowed
+second-class accommodation, the state cabin being reserved for the use
+of naval and military officers, as the steamers on this line rank as
+men of war. The boat was much crowded with soldiers, sailors, and
+Arabs, and we had to share a most miserable berth with eight other
+occupants. We had arrived too late to procure cabin places, and were
+obliged to dine in an unsavoury den, reeking with pestilential odours.
+Most of the Frenchmen grumbled loudly at the miserable accommodation
+afforded in return for their money. Steaming along past a fine coast,
+we reached Dellis about eight o'clock. I got Angelo to bring me my
+sheepskin and cloak, and preferred sleeping on deck to passing the
+night in a locality which, for the horrors it contained, might have
+figured as a scene in Dante's "Inferno."
+
+The gentle music of the sailors, swabbing the deck, awoke me next
+morning. I found we were off Bougie, a most beautifully-situated
+place, entirely surrounded by snow-covered mountains. Here are
+distinctly to be seen the ruins of the old wall supposed to have been
+built by the Vandals. A rather tedious day on board, but the
+occupation of watching the coast, which is very fine, varied the
+monotony of the voyage. We passed Djigelli at about twelve, and
+Philippeville at nine in the evening, when I retired to rest, and, the
+Fates be thanked, it was in a fresh cabin.
+
+There was a Jewess on board, a rather pretty personage, who slept in
+the same cabin with six men, most of them French officers, with a
+coolness that astonished me. Her husband was in the berth opposite
+her; she did not appear to feel the discomforts of her position, but
+chatted away gaily in Arabic and French throughout the whole passage.
+I don't think she quitted her berth once.
+
+At half-past six on Saturday, the 25th of March, came Angelo to
+announce to me that we were off Bona. This is a very strongly
+fortified place. We were rowed ashore by Maltese boatmen, and, amid a
+great crowd and bustle on the quay, landed, and went to the Hôtel de
+France. The proprietors were very civil, and assigned us a room at the
+top of the house, looking out on the place. We sallied forth in quest
+of horses to take us to the market-place. An Arab, who spoke some
+very broken and dilapidated Italian, took us round the market and
+through the streets, shouting "Reel Ain Mokra!" Several Arabs came up
+and offered us their horses, but the steeds had such a forlorn look,
+that we declined the accommodation, and settled to start by carriage
+next morning.
+
+Accordingly, on Monday, the 26th of March, we set out at five o'clock,
+on a most wretched morning. The vehicle was the most miserable
+locomotive contrivance I ever saw. Drawn by two horses, it pounded and
+churned along a most detestable road. We were obliged to get out
+several times, and in one place we stuck in the mud for twenty
+minutes. It was only by dint of putting our united shoulders to the
+wheel, that we succeeded in extricating our unhappy chariot from its
+stationary position. At length our eyes were gladdened by the sight of
+the defile which opens on the lake Metitza, where Count Z----'s
+property is situated. Though of Polish origin, the Count is an
+Englishman, and has, I believe, been an officer. Right gladly we
+alighted from the carriage, and, loading our guns, prevailed on some
+Italian fishermen to take us out in a boat for a pop at the wild ducks
+which we saw flying about by hundreds, bagged a few, and then returned
+to find that the Count's keeper had come down, under the impression
+that we were poachers, with a firm determination to take us into
+custody there and then. The production of our letter of recommendation
+brought him back to civility, and produced an offer to take us out
+shooting; Count Z---- himself was absent in London.
+
+There is an establishment here for the manufacture of oil from putrid
+fish, which agreeable occupation announced itself in the shape of such
+an overpowering odour, that I seized a glass of cognac, and fled
+precipitately, taking my way towards the caravanserai of Ain Mokra.
+Poor old Nero, whom I had brought with me, got into a scrape here, and
+narrowly escaped being drowned. It appears that the putrid entrails of
+the fish are thrown into a kind of pond, which is thus filled with a
+slimy mixture resembling clay, and exhaling a most horrible odour when
+exposed to the sun's rays. Nero contrived, in some way or other, to
+slip into this delectable compound, and there he would have remained,
+had I not laid hold of him and pulled him out by main force. I at once
+had him washed and scrubbed, and even emptied some scent on him, but
+in vain; for days afterwards, poor Nero carried about with him a
+reminiscence of his odoriferous adventure, which rendered his absence
+most desirable to the comfort and well-being of his friends. I sallied
+forth about four miles from Ain Mokra, and lay in ambush for boars,
+but none appeared, and only shot some jackals--a very poor substitute
+for the nobler game I had missed.
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith.
+
+M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF
+CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA.]
+
+At five, next morning, I went out to shoot on the lake. I got Angelo
+to row a boat slowly among the reeds, and soon saw hundreds of wild
+ducks, teals, and large white birds of whose name I am ignorant; they
+looked to me like flamingoes. I could only succeed in bagging a few,
+as they were exceedingly shy, and made off as soon as the boat
+approached; moreover, the rushes were not thick enough to afford us an
+effectual concealment. As the miasma from the lake was sufficiently
+powerful to threaten fever, we returned to the caravanserai, where we
+breakfasted, and, after shooting a few quails, returned in our
+carriage, at one o'clock, to Bona. My driver, who sat beside me, was a
+very loquacious old soldier, who had served in the campaigns against
+the Arabs under Baraguay d'Hilliers and Youssouf, and been present at
+the capture of Milianah and Medeah. The Arabs, he said, never met the
+French fairly _en bataille rangée_, but always fired from ambush at
+the rear-guard, and in this way killed a great number of men. He
+described the conduct of the Arabs to their prisoners as very
+merciless. They never gave quarter, and frequently mutilated their
+captives; the women, in this particular, being more cruel than the
+men. I was informed, on my return, that the party who came out last
+year to shoot, had only killed four lions in as many months, though
+they had "all appliances and means to boot," and always kept several
+Arabs in their pay.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ON TO TUNIS.
+
+  Algeria in general.--The Arabs and their Conquerors.--Antagonism
+  between the Two Races.--Social Condition of the Arabs.--The Oasis
+  steamer.--Arrival at Tunis.
+
+
+On the 28th of March I left Bona in the steamer _Oasis_. The engine
+broke down shortly after leaving the port, and, as the sails were
+absolutely useless, we had the pleasant consciousness of drifting
+towards a lee shore; but in a short time the damage was luckily
+repaired, and we proceeded on our voyage.
+
+The accounts I had heard of Algeria had not prepared me to find such a
+flourishing state of affairs as I really found to exist in the
+community. The colony possesses fine harbours, a magnificent soil, and
+a glorious climate; numerous towns, with good hotels, are springing up
+in the interior. It is true that many of the immigrants are not
+French, but the majority are of that nation; and all the inhabitants,
+after a few years, adopt the French manners and language. The
+non-Gallic population are chiefly Spaniards, Italians, Maltese, and
+Germans. I met only one party of English at Bona, where a community of
+eighteen souls have been brought over by a Mr. Vincent; they appear
+to thrive very well. I was told that Count Z---- intended establishing
+an English village near Bona.
+
+From the general prosperity, I, of course, except the Moors and Arabs,
+who will never, I believe, adopt European civilisation; they seem to
+recoil from before it, like the wild beasts of their native deserts.
+
+The French people certainly pointed out to me in the towns one or
+two _Europeanised_ Arabs, and laughed at the idea of their ever
+becoming "_Français_." From what I saw, the natives merely adopted
+the vices without the good qualities of the dominant race. If to be
+civilised consists in sitting in the _cafés_, drinking absinthe,
+playing cards, and speaking bad French, I certainly saw one or two
+most unquestionable specimens of the Arab adaptability to Gallic
+impressions; but, with the exception of these brilliant results, I
+never saw the least token of intercourse between the Moors and
+their conquerors; indeed, each nation may be said entirely to ignore
+the existence of the other. The peculiarity of Mussulman habits,
+with regard to women, entirely precludes all prospect of a future
+mixture of the two races--such an amalgamation, for instance, as
+occurred in our own country between the Norman-French conquerors
+and the conquered Saxons. So well are the French aware of this
+impossibility, that I have seen the question of the expediency of
+utterly expelling the Mussulmans from Algeria gravely discussed in
+the French journals.
+
+Another method proposed was, that the young Arabs who had attained the
+military age of from eighteen to twenty-two years, should be
+transferred to France, there to pass their period of service as
+infantry soldiers only, that opportunities might be found, during
+their "soldiering years," for instructing them in agriculture, and the
+rudiments of civilised education. This appears to me a sufficiently
+feasible plan; but I suspect that the Arab converts to civilisation
+would, on their return to their native land, quickly relapse into
+their old idle, roving habits, their primitive mode of life, and their
+inborn hatred of the infidel, whom they now regard as an instrument
+sent by Providence to inflict vengeance on the true believer for his
+apathy, and culpable neglect of his religious duties, including the
+propagation of his faith by fire and sword. Still, they believe the
+time to be approaching when every true son of the prophet shall "hae
+his ain" again; and it is past the power of mortal man to shake a
+Mahometan's trust and reliance on Destiny.
+
+For the rest, the French behave with the greatest toleration towards
+all members of the Moorish faith, who are allowed to perform every
+rite of their religion, and polygamy even is permitted to prevail
+among the Mussulman population. At Bona, a very handsome mosque is
+being erected on the Grand Place by the Government. Tolerant
+themselves, the French refuse, with perfect justice, to suffer any
+display of bigotry or fanaticism on the part of the Mahometans towards
+the Christian community; the consequence is, that the mosques and
+other resorts of Mahometans are all thrown open to European visitors.
+
+My dog Nero was a most decided favourite on board the French steamer,
+_Oasis_. Everybody was caressing and patting him, from the captain to
+the stewardess, rather a nice young female, from Germany, who took him
+under her especial protection, and looked after his creature-comforts
+in a way that must have aroused the most lively gratitude in the
+canine bosom of the said Nero. Poor old dog! he seemed quite
+bewildered at the attention he received, not only here, but also on
+board the French man-of-war, the _Tartar_, where the French soldiers
+and sailors were crowding around him all day long, and overwhelming
+him with favours, in the shape of bits of meat, when they took their
+meals. A number of Arabs were sleeping about the deck. These children
+of the desert used to excite Nero's especial wonder. Whenever he was
+let loose, he was sure to be sniffing about among the prostrate
+figures, examining their faces and _bournouses_, and often waking them
+up with a start, to the intense delight of the French tars.
+
+On our arrival off La Goulette, the only anchorage for ships, situated
+about eight miles from Tunis, by sea, and nine miles by land, we were
+greeted by a scene of the most tremendous confusion. All the feluccas
+were rowed by Arabs, and their shouting, swearing, and gesticulation
+exceeded all my former experiences of the kind, Stamboul not
+excepted. A little patience, and a good deal of backsheesh, enabled us
+to pass our baggage through the Douane; and we sent it on by boat to
+Tunis, whither we proceeded by land in a carriage, and a drizzling
+rain. Once on the way we stopped, at what the inhabitants term the
+"Carthaginian cistern," to take in some exceedingly dirty water, from
+a fountain of old-fashioned appearance. The carriage windows were
+closed on account of the rain--an arrangement which interfered a good
+deal with my view of the surrounding country. Twice only, before we
+arrived at Tunis, my companion, a Russian, opened the window--to spit!
+On the first of these occasions, I got a glimpse of a large heap of
+immense stones, which were pointed out to me as the ruins of Carthage,
+and a grove of olives, looking dismal exceedingly in the drizzling
+rain. On the second occasion, I saw the lakes, and a solitary Tunisian
+sentinel. This soldier was dressed much in the Turkish costume, and I
+should scarcely have known him from an Osmanli, but that he wore the
+brass plaque in the front of his scarlet fez, instead of at the top.
+
+As we approached Tunis, we became involved in an increasing crowd of
+loaded asses and mules; and, amid a great deal of screeching and
+shouting, we made our entry into the city, and drove to the Hôtel
+de France, where we obtained such a complete view of an old wall,
+that it effectually prevented us from seeing anything else. The
+rooms, or rather holes, assigned to us, were so miserable, that we
+tried the solitary opposition shop the place can boast--the Hôtel
+de Provençe--but found that here we should fare rather worse than in
+the Hôtel de France. There was a third establishment--a tavern,
+rejoicing in the magniloquent title of "Hotel of the Britannic
+Isles"--but as this hostelry was entirely occupied by sailors and
+Maltese skippers, we declined to avail ourselves of the "Britannic"
+accommodation. There was a great crowd of rather miscellaneous
+company at the _table-d'hôte_. One French female, whom, without
+offence to gallantry, I may be permitted to describe as the ugliest
+woman I met in my travels, excited my especial horror. This charming
+person actually amused herself, and disgusted her neighbours, by
+indulging, _across the table_, in an amusement generally associated
+in men's minds with the chewing of tobacco! I discovered, however,
+that she was only a servant maid.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+MARSA.
+
+  Angelo's Horsemanship.--The Bey's Palace at Marsa.--The Arabs and
+  their Love of Tobacco.--The Friendly Moor at Camatte.
+
+
+On the first of April I rode to Marsa, a little town on the seashore.
+Angelo's horse seemed rather fresh, and my servant was evidently no
+Centaur. He came up to me in an olive wood, where I made a halt for
+about five minutes. He was holding on hard by the mane, his trousers
+were up to his knees, and his face was horribly pale. On my asking him
+why he loitered behind so, he owned, with a dismal sigh, that he was
+half afraid of the horse. "Afraid of the horse, sir!" was poor
+Angelo's lament: "Very wicked horse, sir--fell from a horse, sir--at
+Scutari, sir--broke three ribs, sir--and in hospital five weeks,
+sir!"
+
+I told him to be of good cheer, for the horse would soon be quiet
+after a good gallop; and, tying the horses to some olive trees, I bade
+Angelo wait for me by the side of a little hillock in the plain, where
+I could readily find him on my return, and went away into the forest
+with my gun. The ground was covered with long, thick, pointed grass,
+very wet with the dew. I saw some quails, and shot a few; then
+returned to where Angelo was waiting, and galloped on to Marsa. At
+this place, the Bey, and the principal inhabitants of Tunis, have
+summer residences, to which they resort for the sake of sea-bathing.
+On the way, I encountered a number of Arabs, mounted on mules. The
+foremost shouted out to me in Arabic, as I passed, asking me to stop
+and give him some tobacco. I understood the word "tobacco," which
+seems to have nearly the same sound in all languages, and knowing this
+request to be often a "dodge" on the part of the Arabs, who want an
+opportunity to rob, if not to murder, the traveller, I pointed to
+Angelo, who was following, about fifty paces behind me, with my gun,
+and shouted out that _he_ would find tobacco for them. They evidently
+understood my meaning; for they all set up a loud laugh, and my friend
+the tobacconist--or rather the tobacco-less--looked exceedingly
+"sold."
+
+I found Marsa very prettily situated, opposite to the bay of Tunis,
+near the ruins of old Carthage. The Bey's palace is a handsome
+building. The English and French consulates are also well built. I
+proceeded to a small Italian _locanda_, to get breakfast; but the old
+lady, who seemed the presiding genius of the place, obstinately
+refused to let us have anything. "_Io han niente_," was her
+unanswerable argument. But I rather ostentatiously pulled out my
+watch, whose golden blink somewhat softened the old lady's mood, and
+caused her to remember that she might have certain eggs, and some
+bread, and salad, though a moment before she had been protesting that
+she had not even such a thing as bread in the house. Her son, a
+handsome young Italian, returned at this juncture, and we soon had an
+excellent _déjeûner_ of sausages, salad, spinach, omelette, and
+cheese, with very good wine and coffee. I went down to the seaside and
+bathed, first burying my watch and purse in the sand; for the Arabs
+have a weakness for occasionally coming down under such circumstances,
+and stealing one's clothes.
+
+Past a ruined temple, down an avenue into Camatte, where I got an Arab
+to show me the way to a house formerly occupied by an Englishman.
+Here, for a wonder, I met a Moor, who spoke very good French, and was
+very civil. He asked me how I liked Africa, and laughed cordially at
+my open avowal, that it was "_un peu bizarre_." After gathering a few
+delicious oranges for me in the garden, he took me into the interior
+of the house. I found it a most charming residence, with a deliciously
+cool marble reservoir in the centre, full of gold and silver fish.
+
+I rode back by the margin of the lake, but saw only small game till I
+got to a large olive forest, where a jackal made his appearance. I
+gave chase, and, after a rattling gallop, lodged him among some cactus
+bushes, where I could get near enough to shoot him; and so back to
+Tunis.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+ABOUT BOAR-SHOOTING.
+
+  Sleeman.--The Oued el Ahwena.--Its Scenery and its Dangers.--Beauty
+  of the Landscape on its Banks.
+
+
+I started next day with the Umbra, who was remarkable for a long
+scimitar, and spurs nearly as long. Each time I put my horse to a
+gallop, he was under the impression that I wanted to ride a race with
+him, and went on at full speed, till I restrained his ardour. We
+arrived duly at Sleeman, where the Caid had everything prepared very
+comfortably for us. My friends B---- and F---- arrived later, in a
+carriage. We had a good Arab dinner, with the national kouskous,
+followed by a chibouk.
+
+There was a river about six miles off, where boars were rumoured to
+make their abode. I rose early next morning, and, proceeding to this
+stream, hid in the thicket on the banks, while the Arabs beat the
+bushes. After waiting a long time, I managed to "pot" a wild boar,
+which came rushing past me at full speed. After this, the Arabs
+refused to beat the bushes any more, declaring that the dogs were
+tired, though the real reason was that they wanted their own dinners,
+so I was obliged to give up the sport and return. The wild boar was
+dispatched as a present to the consul.
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith.
+
+M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA, IN
+TUNISIA.]
+
+The river which we visited to-day is called the Oued el Ahwena. It
+runs through a rich valley, bordered on both sides by mountains which
+rise up gradually, and are covered to their very foot with trees of
+various descriptions. The plain itself is fragrant with myrtles,
+orange trees, and olives. The beauty of the scene amid which this
+river falls into the sea is beyond description. Here the water is
+hissing wildly among osiers and furze bushes; there it skips along
+like a young goat over the small pebbles; and yonder, again, it winds
+like a serpent among the sand hills on the sea-shore. The dark
+olive-trees on the bank seem to look seriously on, like a father
+watching the pranks of a favourite child. The large ash-trees shake
+and quiver, like old aunts, all in a tremble at the dangerous hops and
+vagaries of a lively niece; while the gay-plumaged birds of the air
+ring out their wild applause, and the flowers on the bankside murmur
+tenderly, "Oh, take us with you, dear sister!" But the joyous,
+sparkling river rushes on like a coquette, bounding and skipping
+towards its goal.
+
+Such is the river Ahwena in the glorious month of April: fair without,
+like many a gay flirt, she can yet inflict wounds incurable, if not
+death, upon those whom her wiles entrap. Woe to the traveller or
+hunter who, oppressed by thirst in this burning climate, ventures to
+taste the sparkling water that bubbles up like champagne, invitingly
+at his feet! Cholera and death would be the probable result. The
+waters are redolent of cholera, and the banks of fever. No man may
+pitch his tent in safety for a single night on the banks of this
+death-dealing water; not even the Bedouins, who avoid the locality as
+if it were plague-stricken, for fever is in the very air. Strange that
+so fair an exterior should veil so baneful a mystery. Those bright,
+sweet-smelling flowers conceal snakes and reptiles whose bite is
+almost instantaneously fatal, and the place might be appropriately
+termed the Valley of Death. Among yonder fair trees lurk the
+treacherous panther and the slinking hyena.
+
+Yet, in this world, amid present impressions of pleasure, we have
+little time to think of the danger veiled beneath the smiling outward
+shape. So, at least, it was with me, as I reclined on the carpet of
+soft grass, after slaying the boar, placidly discussing my breakfast,
+and enjoying the beauty of the scene around, with the azure-rippling
+sea about two miles off, the magnificent mountains around me, the
+sparkling river at my feet, and, across the bay in the far distance,
+the ruins of the once mighty city of Carthage, with the birds singing
+merrily overhead in the bright sunshine. There is exquisite pleasure
+in the sensation of the external world thus melting away, as it were,
+into a little world of our own, and when the green trees, the azure
+sky, the perfumed plants, all take their places in an exquisite
+picture of Nature's own painting. Women, perhaps, most indulge this
+feeling; hence they often smile with an amiable incredulity when they
+hear the "lords of the creation," proud of their scholastic lore,
+discussing and settling everything, priding themselves upon having
+divided all things so cleverly into _subjective_ and _objective_, and
+boasting that they have furnished their wise heads with so many
+drawers (like a chemist's shop, forsooth), with reason located in one,
+good sense in another, understanding in a third, and so on to the end
+of the chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SPORTING EXPERIENCES.
+
+  El Greesh.--Shooting Hyenas.--An Expedition with the Arabs.--The
+  Caid and his Family.--Another Wild Boar.
+
+
+The next day I rode on to a place called El Greesh, about twenty miles
+from Sleeman. I wanted to pitch my tent at the base of the purple
+mountain, outside the village, where I was sure we should have got a
+great deal of game, as the mountains were covered with thick
+underwood. A----, however, and the rest were opposed to it, so I
+yielded, and pitched my tent in the village itself, where I soon had
+the entire tribe around me, examining me and my arms, my gestures, and
+everything, as if I was an event. After a cup of coffee, I determined
+to start in search of game, and, with a little backsheesh, got an Arab
+to accompany us to one of the neighbouring defiles, where, after
+waiting about an hour and a half, I managed to bag a very fine hyena.
+He was just sneaking out of his hole, and was about 150 yards off. On
+my return, the natives manifested great joy, shook my hands, made a
+circle round me, tapped me on the back, &c., to my chagrin. As I was
+tremendously fatigued, I retired to my sheepskin in my tent with
+great satisfaction. The natives all slept around our tents on the
+ground, and some of them kicked up a most infernal noise till about
+two in the morning, singing a sort of chorus. The following morning
+the whole tribe collected around our tents and watched _our toilette
+du matin_ with the most intense eagerness.
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith.
+
+M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL GREESHE.]
+
+The greater part of them had brought their matchlocks, as the day was
+to be a grand field-day, and they were all in the highest spirits,
+laughing, and cracking jokes to an extraordinary amount. We started
+about seven A.M., and I remained till eleven A.M., till which time
+they had not succeeded in driving anything out of cover. Here I
+sprained my ankle in descending a broken gully, and was obliged to
+return to the tent. I came back about four P.M., with only small game.
+After sun-down we went out a second time in ambush after hyena. A lion
+or panther came, a little after sunset, and frightened the horses so
+that they broke loose, and we returned to the tents about eleven P.M.
+
+The next day we started early, in order to return to Sleeman. We
+stopped an hour on the banks of our old friend, the river Oued el
+Ahwenah, for luncheon, where I shot several quail and snipes, and a
+large bird, whose name I ignore, also a hare, the only one I saw in
+Tunisia. About four P.M., I reached the Caid's house; a woman, for a
+wonder, opened the door. As the Caid was there, I looked anywhere but
+at her. The next day we went out all day, after boar, to the river,
+with an Italian and some Arabs. I stood up to my knees in the river
+for about an hour in the brush-wood, when one rushed by; I fired, and
+he rushed forward badly damaged. The rest fired, and he was found dead
+a few yards off. The Italian's steed broke loose, and he left us in
+search of it. I broke from my _corps de garde_. My horse lost a shoe,
+and then broke loose, and I had to follow him for more than a mile. I
+had a kind of dumbshow conversation with the Caid's son on my return,
+a very fine, handsome lad, about seventeen. I hear his sister is most
+beautiful, and I promised to send him a present, on getting to Tunis,
+and he is to write to me and tell me if he receives it. After dinner
+the Caid came and smoked two or three pipes, drank coffee, and wished
+us adieu in a most gracious manner.
+
+We had considerable difficulty in bringing home the boar, as our Arabs
+all deserted us on account of its being the Ramadhan; but Angelo and
+B---- managed to carry it back between them. I returned to Tunis next
+day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+TUNIS AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
+
+  Picturesque Situation of Tunis.--The Horse Market.--Effects of
+  Race.--The Bazaars.--Mohamed Medea.--The Bardo.--The Bey of
+  Tunis.--His Mode of administering Justice.--Prince Puckler
+  Muskau's Account of his Interview.
+
+
+Tunis is situated on the borders of a lake, or rather inlet of the
+sea. It is surrounded by a crenelated wall, which resembles very much
+that of Constantinople. Like that city, too, Tunis, from the exterior,
+presents a very imposing aspect; but enter the city, and the illusion
+vanishes; there is the same dirt, the same narrow and filthy streets,
+as in the Turkish capital. The dogs alone are wanting to make the
+comparison perfect. An ancient historian has called this place _Tunis
+the white_; but, like other whited sepulchres, it is very foul within.
+The horses, the really thorough-bred ones, are the finest objects in
+Tunis. As in the canine and human, so in every other race, blood will
+tell. The Arab horse, though by no means so swift for a short distance
+as his English cousin, has a most marvellous power of endurance. He is
+also extremely sure footed, and scarcely ever comes down. I weigh over
+thirteen stone, yet have frequently ridden the same horse forty
+English miles per diem, over country that would infallibly cut up your
+English two hundred guinea hunter. They also, so to speak, live on
+air. Their chief drawback is that they are, with few exceptions,
+stallions, and, consequently, when tethered or standing near each
+other, are very apt to fight most desperately, or else break loose
+from their tetherings, when a long and wearisome pursuit is the
+necessary result. It is very difficult to come across the best _pur
+sang_ horses, as the Arabs are afraid of the Bey's taking a fancy to
+them, and taking them by force; and, consequently, they often
+purposely mutilate them, lest he should seize them to himself. There
+are also some very fine bazaars at Tunis, and the otto of roses there
+is especially excellent. Our Consul has a very fine, large house, and
+dispenses his hospitalities, &c., very generously to his compatriots.
+His lady is also a most amiable person. Tunis is, I hear, celebrated
+for the manufacture of the red cap, usually termed "fez," which is
+worn generally throughout Mussulman countries, and universally by the
+military. The Tunisian soldiers wear the plaque in front of the fez,
+in lieu of on the top, like the Turkish. As soon as I had selected my
+horse, a fine black thorough-bred Arab (whose price was four hundred
+francs only), I used to make excursions every day into the country,
+sometimes alone, sometimes attended, always armed, as the Francs of
+Tunis told me many stories of the dangers arising from going out in
+the country unarmed, among the Arabs. I think a great number of them
+were very much exaggerated. One of the places I was fond of riding to
+was Mohamed Medea, about twelve miles from Tunis, very prettily
+situated, where there was a very fine ruin of a Roman aqueduct, and
+eke a French restaurant, where a _déjeûner_, made more agreeable by a
+twelve miles' ride, was served in quite Parisian style. The reason of
+there being a French restaurant is this:--The present Bey, on his
+accession, determined to build a fresh palace at this place; and,
+being under a sort of douce compulsion, employs nothing but French
+architects and operatives, who make the hotel their head-quarters, it
+being about the only Christian house in the entire place. Quail
+abounded in this vicinity, and there were _pas mal de sangliers_. To
+escape from the _ennui_ of the _table d'hôte déjeûner_ at Tunis,
+occupied by French bagmen and milliners, and served in a stuffy hole
+of a back kitchen, I used frequently to make Angelo put my breakfast
+in my _sacoche_ (saddle-bag), consisting of a piece of cold meat and
+some _vin du pays_, and then ride out, dismount, and breakfast _al
+fresco_, or rather _al bosco_; sometimes I am sorry to confess to
+breaking the eighth commandment, as I helped myself to my dessert of
+oranges, from the trees near or under which I sat. The Arabs, _malgré_
+the ogre histories I had heard of murder and robbery, were always most
+civil, and would accept, in spite of the prophet, a glass of wine from
+my hands though our conversation was of course of the most limited
+description, unless Angelo was present to interpret. It is true I
+always was armed.
+
+The Bardo is one of the lions of Tunis. It is the country residence of
+the Bey, and, besides the harem, contains a hall of justice and
+barracks. It is at Bardo that the Bey holds his court of justice, in
+which the cases are decided very quickly, and with great precision.
+The interior of the harem, according to a French traveller, who had
+visited it, is fitted up very gracefully. There is a magnificent _jet
+d'eau_ in the marble court of the interior. The gallery running round
+this court on the second storey is furnished with a very artistically
+elaborated railing, or grating, part of which is painted green, part
+gilt. Behind this railing the ladies of the harem get a sly peep at
+those who visit his highness. The vast saloon in which the Bey
+receives his visitors is hung with crimson velvet, embroidered with
+gold, and the ceiling is also gilt and painted over in brilliant
+colours. From the two sides of the wall are suspended different
+descriptions of arms, richly manufactured; on the right, they consist
+of swords and poniards; on the left, of various kinds of muskets and
+pistols. Gold, silver, and precious stones sparkle out from these
+arms. Under these weapons are ranged three rows of divans, covered
+with a thick sort of red silk. The centre of the apartment is
+furnished with magnificent Persian carpets. On the lowest of the
+divans, the principal courtiers seat themselves, on solemn days of
+reception, in double file; while at the extremity, the Bey reclines on
+an ottoman placed crossways, and covered with white satin. In Europe,
+we might, with great advantage, take a wrinkle or two from this
+semi-barbarian prince as regards the administration of justice with
+expedition. The Bey of Tunis is, at one and the same time, the chief
+governor of the realm, the administrator of the public revenues, and
+the final judge of all grand cases. From his immediate authority
+depends the administration of the police, the imposition of taxes, the
+various diplomatic relations, and the superintendence of the army and
+navy.
+
+We Europeans can scarcely comprehend how one man can look after so
+many different details, or direct them with order and precision. But
+in this country, mark, oh! red-tapeists, everything relating to
+interior administration is reduced to the greatest simplicity, and
+from this simplicity, freed from the complicated system of European
+red-tapeism and bureaucracy, results, it is to be hoped, a strict
+economy in public expenses, and a rapid process in the courts of
+justice and other Government affairs. Where a European prince would
+require a hundred different _employés_, here five or six clerks
+suffice. Besides the celerity and economy resulting from such a
+system, a third no less important advantage is derived, viz., the
+facility with which the Bey is able to superintend the conduct of the
+ministers, being so few in number, and immediately detect and punish
+those in whom any act of embezzlement or fraud has been detected; and
+punishment in this country immediately follows detection. Verily,
+there are advantages in autocratic as well as in constitutional
+dynasties!!
+
+In the administration of justice, too, the Bey is supreme judge, from
+whom there is no appeal. The celerity with which causes are tried and
+judged, is, I am told, perfectly astounding. The case merely consists
+in a simple exposition of the facts, and such is the wonderful power
+of discernment of the merits of the case which the Bey thinks he has
+obtained from long habit, that it is said he rarely deliberates. The
+court is open to the public--even to Christians! I did not go; but
+Prince Puckler Muskau has left an account of his presence there. After
+giving a description of the room, &c., and the Bey's entry, the Prince
+proceeds:--"The Bey was now presented with a magnificent pipe, which
+was at least ten feet long. After a few puffs, the audience commenced.
+The civil and criminal procedure is so summary, that a great majority
+of cases were decided in as many minutes as they would have taken
+years in Europe. The subject of the causes was frequently very
+trivial, yet the patience of the sovereign was by no means exhausted.
+I thought, in general, that the pleaders were satisfied with the Bey's
+decision. One sees, by this, that the Bey's place is no sinecure; and
+I am told that few monarchs in Christian countries have so much
+personally to do. The Bey sits every day in the court, from eight in
+summer, and from nine in winter, till mid-day; and illness, or absence
+from town, is his only excuse for non-attendance. His other
+governmental duties occupy pretty well the rest of his day."
+
+Each country has an "idea," I suppose, that its own Government is
+best, and perhaps it is as well it should be so. The man who travels
+much sees the defects and the advantages of each. Our Parliament would
+certainly not easily be acclimatised in Barbary, nor would a Bey
+exactly do to grace the British throne. What, for instance, would we
+think of such a proclamation as this in the _London Gazette_, on a
+king's accession? It was issued by Mustapha, the father of the present
+Bey, to the consuls of Christian powers:--"Glory to princes of the
+religion of Messiah. To the chosen by the great of the nation of
+Jesus, our most honoured, most longed for, most magnificent, and most
+powerful friend, the King of ----, we make known, friendly, the
+following: On Wednesday, 23rd of the month of Moharrem the sacred, of
+the present year 1251, at the moment when the sun illumined the
+horizon, the hour marked by destiny having struck for my most honoured
+brother, Hassein Basha, he emigrated towards the mansion of eternity,"
+&c. &c.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE RUINS OF CARTHAGE.
+
+  Reflections on Ancient Carthage.--Hannibal and his Career.--An
+  Arab Domicile.--Picturesque appearance of the Ruins.
+
+
+I went three times to the "Ruins," and therefore should have been
+lucky. I was, however, the reverse, both as to seeing anything of the
+ruins, and also the particular object which brought me there. I think,
+myself, proverbs are very deceitful, and should, like dreams, be read
+by contrary; some are utterly unintelligible; as, for instance--will
+any one tell me what this one signifies?--"Sweet words butter no
+parsnips." I thought parsnips (and, being fond of vegetables, I should
+like to know) were generally seasoned with pepper or vinegar. I am,
+perhaps, too stupid to comprehend it, and, like stupid people, abuse
+what I don't understand. Therefore, don't let any one expect a long
+description of how this part is Phoenician, and is supposed to be
+where the Carthaginian parliament was held; or their dandies and
+"fast" of both sexes met to polka of a night, or drink Punic punch; or
+a "_cabinet de lecture_," or club, where the _Times_ or the _Globe_
+gave the latest telegram from Italy; as how Hannibal obtained a
+glorious victory over the Roman troops at Thrasymene, or that the
+commissariat was bad; then, perhaps, old grumblers decried the
+dissipation at Cannæ, and the expense of the war; and ancient
+merchants on 'Change complained of the rising importance of the Roman
+navy, whose ships had just captured the large Phoenician brigantine
+_Argo_, from Sidon, laden with a valuable freight, otto of roses, and
+bound for Carthage--_apropos_ of which I will remark, there is a
+military Rome and a mercantile Carthage in modern times. Take care we
+be not the Carthage; let us remember that it was from a stranded Punic
+vessel the Romans learnt the maritime art, in which, at last, they
+excelled their enemies. Hannibal appears to me always the greatest man
+of any age, ancient or modern--Napoleon not excepted--and perhaps the
+most unfortunate. His character comes to us, as his exploits, from
+foreign and hostile sources; for I believe there exist no Phoenician
+records; so that there remains a great deal of discount to take off in
+the way of disparagement, depreciation, &c. &c. It is as if the future
+Australian, standing on the ruins of a city mightier than Carthage,
+could obtain no account of Napoleon, but through partial and
+depreciatory fragments from the pages of Sir Walter Scott's life of
+that extraordinary meteor. Napoleon, it is true, crossed the Alps, but
+Hannibal traversed the Alps and Pyrenees too, and I fancy the last are
+the more impassable of the two. It is true I have not copied Albert
+Smith, or our other heroic youths, but I have climbed the Malodetta,
+which well becomes its appellation. Then, Napoleon had a friendly
+population at any rate behind him, to bring supplies, &c. Hannibal was
+everywhere surrounded by hostile tribes, besides having had the
+disadvantage of a march through enemies' countries of several hundred,
+if not thousand miles. I hope the living in Spain, for his sake, did
+not then consist of _olla podrida_, with a variation of garlic and
+acid wine.
+
+Perhaps there existed in these days some machine, or some marvellous
+powder, by which real mountains might be removed (as spiritual ones by
+faith) at pleasure, and replaced in their original position; but as
+history makes no mention thereof, it is but fair to conclude not. No,
+the only machine used, the only mine, was the invincible and iron will
+of the Carthaginian hero. He, too, if I mistake not, lived under
+parliamentary _régime_, in the shape of a senate, a great hamper on
+military manoeuvres, where all should be done quickly, secretly, and
+unanimously. Napoleon was his own master, with a devoted people. I
+wonder if parliamentary debates, in Punic days, were as long and
+insipid as in modern; that is, I have not been to them, but judge by
+what one reads in that modern tyrant, the _Times_. Oh, mighty _Times_!
+how we abuse you, and yet how should we relish our breakfast without
+you? who ever comes up to all we look for when great occasions call
+for your wonderful pen, stirring us to the quick; or whether, in an
+idle mood, we seek to while away the passing hour by a description of
+the last new folly, or the latest odour of the Thames, or anything
+else instructive and amusing. By the way, if the senate of Carthage
+took quarter as long sending supplies to their general as the Commons
+discussing the way to purify the Thames, I fancy he would not have
+crossed the Pyrenees.
+
+I said I went three times to Carthage; the first time, an English
+friend was leaving that day by a sailing ship, and I had promised to
+lunch with him at Goulette, and then see him on board, the first of
+which I did in a small house dignified by the name of _locanda_, or
+_Hôtel Français_, where some Maltese captains were breakfasting, who
+had a strong odour of onions and garlic, and at another table a
+Savoyard was discussing the question of annexation with a Provençal,
+in what I may term _moitié Français moitié Italien_. They gave us soup
+made of, I don't know what, but the pepper was very strong, or rather,
+I may say, would have been, if it were not for the strong taste of the
+water, and _vice versâ_; after that, some dried fish, called sardines,
+which they said had just been caught. For second course, we had a sort
+of _gigot de mouton_, which, in form, resembled the temple of Neptune
+at the "ruins," and you might almost have sworn they had cut it into
+that shape on purpose; and quails, very excellent; and we finished
+with cheese, which might have been manufactured from goat's milk, or
+cow's milk, or camel's milk, or all three, or any other milk, but was
+dignified by the appellation of _Chesterrre_, and was decidedly not
+Stilton, and eke delicious oranges. In this dinner we meet, as in
+life, with much good to counteract the evil, as the delicious quails
+made up for rancid flesh of sheep or horse; so, when next Lady Julia
+Plantagenet jilts me, I will remember Jessie Jones; or, again, as
+these fragrant oranges, redolent of the East, caused me to forget the
+nauseous _fromage_, so shall the friendship and good opinion of Brown
+console me for the putty eye and freezing regard of the fashionable
+Fitznoodle, when next we meet, not at Philippi, but in the park! After
+lunch, and adieux, I mounted my horse for the ruins, as my friend's
+vessel did not start as expected that day, owing to the calm.
+
+On passing the gate of Goulette, several Arab convicts, in chains,
+shouted at me for something; what it was, I ignore; perhaps they asked
+for backsheesh, or tobacco, or powder, fine or coarse; or, may be,
+they called me a dog of a Giaour, and cursed my relations and their
+limbs. This Goulette appears to be the chief place for the Arab
+malefactors, and they are mainly employed in improving the high road
+between Goulette and Tunis, and also in repairing the fortifications.
+
+The afternoon was beautiful, though hot. As it wanted some time to
+dinner at Tunis, I made a _détour_ on my return to the ruins, and it
+requires a fine air to make you enjoy fine scenery. There was
+scarcely a ripple on the blue Mediterranean. Beautiful trees of every
+description, olive and orange trees, oleanders, and others, grew to
+the very base of the mountain, and sent up a delicious perfume. I
+visited the chapel of St. Louis, from which one enjoys a most
+delicious prospect. It is built over some god's temple--whose, I
+forget, or even whether a Roman or Punic one; but this is dedicated to
+the true God and Christian worship, in remembrance of that venerable
+French king, who is said to have perished here, while on his way to
+Palestine, to fight the Moslem. Peace to his ashes! However, I
+soon left the hill to re-descend, for I was very thirsty; all of a
+sudden, behind an olive bush, I saw a head, black as ink, pop out;
+I hallooed to it first in English, then in Italian. No effect. I saw
+a female figure disappear behind a cottage, and out rushed a fine
+tall Arab, with menacing gesture, and more menacing language. I was
+in his garden. "A glass of water, please," said I, in Italian. Still
+no effect. I thought he was going to be savage, when, from behind
+the house popped, or rather rolled out, another little naked,
+curly-headed, black ball--a triennial by his looks--the Arab's only
+boy, no doubt. He was so irresistibly comic in appearance, that I
+burst into a fit of laughter. The man's face changed in a moment. I
+suppose he thought I was admiring the child. He immediately
+understood what I required, which he brought in such a large cup,
+that I thought it was intended for a pail. I nearly emptied it,
+however. He then volunteered bread and olives, which, however, I
+declined, to spoil my dinner. We then made mutual signs of greeting,
+and parted. Had I been able to talk, I would have stopped longer.
+There was a sudden friendship sprung up between me and that poor
+unlettered infant of the desert.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+THE RUINS AGAIN.
+
+  Great Extent of the Ancient City.--Marsa, on the
+  Sea-shore.--Carthaginian Catacombs near Camatte.--Quail
+  Shooting.--Trait of Honesty in the Arabs.--The Arab
+  Character.--Anecdotes concerning them.
+
+
+The second time I went to the ruins I went, like Scipio, to weep, not
+over Carthage, but the loss of my breakfast; and the more so that
+it was to have been a very good one--a regular pic-nic, or _fête
+champêtre_--under olive-trees, or orange-trees, or palms, shaded
+from the scorching rays of Phoebus. Champagne, Burgundy (my
+favourite wine), were to crown the repast. Nor was the food to be
+only corporal, but eke mental, as the great explorer--the great
+excavator--was to be there, to have explained that this was a
+theatre, that an aqueduct; the god to whom this temple or that
+altar was dedicated; and how many four-in-hands, driven by fast
+young Phoenician guardsmen, would have been able to pass each other
+down that "_via longa_." How many stones made up that house; and that
+this was a bath, and not a harem; and that a certain statue of some
+celebrity--whose name I had never heard, and never shall--was, by
+some, supposed to lie 100 feet under this marble pillar, though,
+according to others, he might be 102 feet deep interred--for all of
+which, I daresay, I should have been the wiser and the better; but I
+was sufficiently mundane to regret my _déjeûner_ the most. The fact
+is, A----, whose back was not sufficiently recovered to accompany me
+riding, and the American Consul and Davies, had gone with the edibles
+and beverages in a carriage, and were to have met me at the temple
+of some god. But, unfortunately, I mistook the deity's name, and
+afterwards found that their shrine lay ten miles off from the one I
+worshipped at. This will give one a good idea of the vastness of
+the ancient city, and struck me more than all the lectures and
+description in the world. Where people were crowded like bees, as
+in our London, buying and selling, and riding and driving, some 2,000
+years past--occupied then, as now, in all the frivolities of this
+empty world--to find a complete solitude--a desert nearly--where
+wander the jackal and hyena! A very clever people, no doubt, these
+same Phoenicians were, to judge by their edifices; yet they had not
+discovered the theory of water finding its own level, as the
+peculiar construction of an aqueduct proves, the remains of which
+still exist, and which was to convey water some forty miles from the
+interior. There was a Roman city built over the Punic one, and the
+latter alone, of course, interests, as the former is seen any day, at
+Pompeii, in better perfection. Besides Angelo and myself, there was
+not a human being in view--yes, there are three Arab youths
+reclining behind that ruin of a wall, motionless as statues; I thought
+they were statues at first. Two have long flint guns, perhaps to
+keep crows off the corn, or shoot quails; or, perhaps, to shoot me
+if they can; for I have a fine gold chain, not to mention a ring,
+which would maintain them till they died of old age--which could
+keep them in ease and elegance for a couple of years, at the least.
+You have yet to learn, if you know it not, that ten Arabs, fine
+men though they be, with such rusty weapons as yours, are barely a
+match for one European with an arm such as mine. But, my poor boys,
+there is no chance for you. I have, you see, a revolver with six
+barrels. When you see that, your brow droops as much as your eyes
+sparkled when you saw the chain. It is fancy, on my part, most
+probably; so, off my horse, and off with my clothes. The sun was
+scorching, and I took a delicious swim in the sea, and then rode on to
+Marsa, where is a ruin (everything is in ruins here) of modern
+date--the late Bey's palace--a most superb edifice. I said a ruin,
+yet it is scarcely a ruin, though fast becoming so. Marsa is a sort
+of watering-place for the Christians of Tunis during the heat of
+summer. A----'s description of the part he visited I will give: "I
+went with Davies and the Yankee Consul to see the catacombs of
+Carthage, near Camatte, which completely undermined a large mountain
+by the sea coast. They contain rows of niches for the coffins, and
+each chamber communicates with others. They hold some twenty coffins
+each. Some skeletons have been found, and nails; the former crumbled
+to pieces immediately, on being exposed to the air. These catacombs
+are now inhabited by hyenas and jackals, and had a strong odour of
+those animals." It is supposed they extend for miles, but the impurity
+of the atmosphere precludes entrance to any distance.
+
+My third visit was to shoot quails on ground where, centuries ago,
+Hannibal had passed at the head of his bronzed legions, amid admiring
+groups of citizens, the bands playing, perhaps, "_Partant pour
+l'Italie_." The migration of quails takes place at this season, and,
+with a good retrieving spaniel, hundreds may be shot. But they lie
+very close, and require a dog to put them up. They are by no means
+easy to shoot, and require snipe shot. They lie in the young corn,
+which is very thick and thriving here as on the field of Waterloo. As
+I had put up No. 6 shot by mistake, and had no spaniel, I bagged but
+few comparatively, some twenty. A great number of these quails are
+sent alive to England, and on board the Italian steamer from Sicily
+there were about twenty large cages, containing about fifty live
+quails each, which they told me were going to Britain; they had been
+caught like larks by the net.
+
+By the way, I had here a proof of Arab honesty, refreshing as an
+oasis in the desert. Riding back through a village to Goutelle (where
+I was staying, previously to embarking for Malta), I dropped my
+powder-flask, unawares to myself. I had not passed two minutes when
+I heard a loud halloo, and turning, perceived an Arab running at full
+speed to me with my powder-flask. Now, powder is what Arabs prize
+more than gold even, precious stones, or tobacco, yet they might
+easily have taken this without my knowing anything. On my offering
+him coin worth about sixpence, the Arab, in broken _lingua Franca_,
+made me comprehend he preferred a few charges of powder, which I
+immediately gave, and which he carefully wrapped up in some old
+paper. I record this, because at Tunis and elsewhere, we hear of
+nothing but Arab dishonesty and thieving propensities. Is it true,
+and this exception a proof of the rule? or are all these stories
+false? It is hard to say.
+
+They are a curious race, apparently a mass of contradictions. One
+thing is certain; you must not treat them in the _du haut en bas_
+style. They are very proud, and naturally regard every Christian _ipso
+facto_ as individually inferior to the Mussulman, more specially in
+the far interior, where Christians have not as yet penetrated. A----
+and his party had started for Kef, _malgré_ my dissuasions. The fact
+of a man going to explore Punic ruins with one going to discover
+Mauritanian lions, was, to my mind, like mixing oil and vinegar, or
+fire and water, or eating meat with your knife, or soup with a fork,
+or taking two helpings of soup, or anything else incongruous. D----
+was to be their interpreter. The Arabs there told them that a lion
+can carry away a camel on his back, but not lift a sheep. This they
+firmly believe. The reason assigned is, that in former times (when
+animals spoke), the lion said, "I will carry off this sheep, with or
+without the consent of Allah;" and Allah said to the lion, "You shall
+not;" and from that time the monarch has never been able to lift a
+sheep. At one time the man and the lion were great friends, and the
+lion did not know he was stronger than the man. One day, as they were
+out walking together, a thorn ran into the lion's foot; he limped, and
+stopped to pull it out, when the man, in derision, said, "What! so
+strong a creature hurt with a thorn?" Then the lion in anger ran the
+thorn into the man's eye, who cried out with pain. This proved to the
+lion the man's inferiority, and ever after they were declared enemies.
+At a place called Tibursok, where A----'s party passed on their road
+to Keff, not a Christian, or even a Jew, were to be seen, consequently
+the Arabs were very intolerant. D---- walked into this town alone, in
+front of the party, and, speaking Arabic well, questioned one of the
+Arabs about some ruin, when another came up and said, "Why do you
+attend to that dog of a Christian?" D---- took no notice, when the
+other shouted out, "Cursed be your father, your mother, and all the
+members of your house." D---- then collared him; the Arab inquired,
+"What for?" "Because you cursed my relatives," said D----, seeing the
+rest of the party with the Bey's escort coming up, "and now, just
+show me the Caid's residence, and I will have you bastinadoed."
+However, as some of the other Arabs crowded round and begged for
+mercy, D---- thought it better to let him off.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+HOME!
+
+  My fellow-passenger, the Sportsman.--Passage from Tunis to Malta
+  in a Sailing Vessel.--Disagreeables of the Passage.--Home,
+  Overland.--Conclusion.
+
+
+On the steamer _Meludiah_, for Malta, I found a sporting Frenchman
+on deck. He had been my fellow-passenger from Bona to Tunis, and
+carried a revolver and a gun; the first for porpoises, the second
+for gulls, &c. He recounted to me, with great glee, how he had shot a
+grosbeak, and some other small birds, near Tunis, and given them to
+the cook on board for our dinner. It was a Mussulman steamer, and,
+being Rhamazan, they did not serve dinner till after sunset. I was
+nearly famished. The first course was salad served with rancid oil,
+which immediately brought me and the Frenchman on deck. During the
+rest of the passage I made Angelo serve my repasts. The Frenchman was
+a character. "_Je viens de perdre ma femme_," he said; "_il y a
+des femmes mechantes vous savez, Monsieur, et des femmes bonnes; la
+mienne était bonne! mais bonne! Tenez, je l'ai mis dans le cercueil
+moi même, et maintenant je suis ici pour me distraire, car je n'en
+trouverai pas une comme celle-là, allez. Je ferai le voyage, j'irai
+en Alexandrie--n'importe où, travailler j'irai à l'Isthme de
+Suez._" At last we arrived in Malta. It is a pity for officers and
+others there is no regular communication by steam between Malta and
+Tunis; for the _désagrémens_ of a sailing-vessel are by no means
+despicable. Witness a friend of mine's report thereon:--
+
+"25th.--Came on board the _Gemo_ at seven A.M.; went on shore again at
+nine, and stopped all day. Dined and slept on board; rough living
+here, but no cattle, which is a great thing.--26th. Set sail at eleven
+A.M.; fair wind; fine day, and very hot.--27th. Rain all night; wind
+light and variable, and one made but little progress. Cape Bona still
+close to us this morning. We are only going at three and three-quarter
+knots per hour. A fine breeze got up at twelve, and at seven we passed
+Panteleria Isle, going at seven knots.--28th. Wind fell away early
+this morning, and about eleven blew strong from the east: the worst
+quarter it could for us.--29th. This accursed wind has lasted all
+night, and blows harder this morning; the sea, too, is very high. It
+is intensely miserable; rough sea, bad grub, no one to talk to, no
+books, and no idea when we shall reach Malta.--30th. East wind still;
+an almighty swell on; one can neither sit, lie, nor stand with
+comfort. The coast of Sicily is very plain this morning. We are about
+forty-five miles from Malta, but no one can say when we shall reach
+it. Fresh provisions have nearly come to an end. Let any one ever
+catch me on board a sailing-ship again, unless I am forced.--1st. Half
+a gale, and a heavy sea last night; got no sleep, as the ship jumped
+so; and the mattress--fancy now!--is stuffed with sticks, and is so
+cursedly hard, that, after five days of it, one's bones ache all over.
+A very fine day; but this awful wind still east. At eleven A.M. we
+were off Gozo, only twenty miles from our destination; but it was
+impossible to get there. The diet and food on board are awful; I am
+nearly starved. There was only one thing amusing. A Maltese, who slept
+in the other berth near me, sneezed nine times in as many minutes;
+and, after each sternutation, he went through a short formula of
+prayer, beginning 'Santo Something,' to keep the devil to leeward, I
+suppose; and, egad, I think he must have been on board _in propriâ
+personâ_, under some disguise, to have caused us so bad a passage.
+This afternoon, to vary the programme pleasantly, we had a dead calm.
+Our miseries seem to have no end. I begin to think I shall rival the
+'Flying Dutchman,' and never make my port, but sail on for ever.--2nd.
+A north-west wind sprang up at five P.M., and we reached Malta at
+seven."
+
+Thus, the sailing-vessel took seven days to do what I did in thirty
+hours on the steamer. After the usual amount of driving, dining, &c.,
+at Malta, in the words of the poet I bid
+
+    Adieu to joys of La Valette,
+    Adieu, sirocco, sun, and sweat;
+    Adieu, ye females without graces,
+    Adieu, red coats and redder faces;
+    Adieu, the supercilious air
+    Of those that strut _en militaire_.
+
+And now the word is "homeward;" and across a track well known to the
+English tourist, we journey onward, till
+
+    The mountains of Trieste afar are seen,
+    And farther yet, the Alps, whose highest peak
+    Now glitters with a gay and snowy sheen
+    In the bright sun; as quick our sailors seek
+    An anchorage in the port, where Turk and Greek,
+    Swede and Levantine, and full many more,
+    The haughty Spaniard, and the German sleek,
+    All races, from the Nile unto the Nore,
+    Into Trieste, in many a varied costume pour.
+
+    Along thy silent streets I wander now,
+    Venice, once queen, aye, empress of the sea!
+    Fairest in art as clime, yet sunk so low
+    Beneath the despot Teuton's rule, I see
+    Thy halls deserted, fallen, yet in thee
+    Much splendour to admire there still exists.
+    Well could I quit my native land, and flee
+    The rugged northern clime, the vapid mists,
+    With thee to dwell, did I that only what me lists.
+
+    The fiery car speeds on her iron way,
+    Through hill, o'er valley quickly do we fly.
+    There lies the grot of Adelberg, and day
+    Sees us past Gratze's fortress hasten by
+    Like lightning's flash, nor stop until we spy
+    St. Stephen's dome from out the darkness peer.
+    Like _bas reliefs_ her turrets in the sky
+    O'ertop Vienna, great the pious fear
+    Of holy men, who such vast beauteous structures rear.
+
+    There Coeur de Lion lived and almost died,
+    In yonder ruin gray o'erbent by time,
+    But that a troubadour, a servant tried,
+    His well-loved master sought through every clime;
+    Nor sought in vain, for by a simple rhyme,
+    A soft tuned sonnet, in a dungeon cold,
+    Imprisoned here he found him for no crime,
+    And saved. The ruins past, I now behold
+    Prague's lofty palaces arise, and turrets old.
+
+    The scene is changed by many a lovely vale:
+    Upon the Elbe my rapid way I went,
+    Where Nature reigns supreme, nor aught avail
+    'Gainst her the charms a Raphael's touch can lend
+    To Art's supremest works; these all depend
+    On light, on colour, on the master's hand;
+    Nature's own work, so thought I, as I bend
+    My steps through Dresden's galleries, and stand
+    Before Art's fairest deeds in this fair Saxon land!
+
+    Swift be my verse, and swifter still my pace
+    (Oh, pardon me, for I'll be sworn I bore)
+    By Berlin's quays, past oft a plain, I race
+    To Hamburg's crowded port, until the roar
+    Of ocean's wave is heard again once more.
+    Once more upon the deck I stand and view
+    Behind that cloud arise old Albion's shore--
+    Shore that I love, roast beef, plum-pudding too,
+    Pale ale, the _Times_, and scandal, like a Briton true.
+
+
+
+
+NOTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN OR TOURIST
+IN NORTH AFRICA.
+
+
+The best time to go to Algeria or Tunis is October, when the heats of
+summer begin to become cooler. By all means, let the traveller, if he
+wish to be independent, travel on horseback. In Algeria he will meet
+with accommodation everywhere, and proceed as safely as in London, or
+any part of England.
+
+He can go to Boussada or Laghouat, about six days' journey from
+Algiers, staying every night at caravanserais _en route_. Boussada I
+did not visit myself, but from rumour, I believe, there is excellent
+gazelle shooting in the neighbourhood. By the plains of Boussada, the
+tourist can pass into Tunisia over the French frontier. At Algiers,
+the best hotels are the Hôtel d'Orient and the Hôtel de la Régence, on
+the Grande Place. For ammunition, I recommend Huèt, armourer, near the
+English Consul's; and for horses--François or Francisco, a Maltese,
+who speaks French and English. The grand thing to be considered is
+economy of space. Let every necessary for clothing, if possible, be
+crammed into the saddle-bags attached to one's saddle, as ammunition,
+guns, &c. &c., must be placed on the other horses. Well did the
+Romans call baggage by the appellation of _impedimenta_. In this
+country it is so literally, not figuratively. It is absolutely
+necessary to have an interpreter who can talk Arabic; for though in
+Algeria there are many natives who jabber broken French or Italian,
+even this _lingua Franca_ is so disguised that it is almost impossible
+to comprehend them; and in the interior there are very few "indigènes"
+who understand anything but Arabic. In Tunisia nothing but Arabic is
+of any use whatever.
+
+To travel in the interior of Tunis, it is necessary to have a mounted
+escort, and also a letter of recommendation to the "Caids" (mayors) of
+the different towns through which you pass. Here you must expect a
+great want of comfort, as there are no beds, and you generally have to
+sleep on the floor. On the Lake of Tunis, close to the city, there is
+very good flamingo shooting. The flamingoes sit on the water in rows
+like a regiment, and the method I employed in shooting them was as
+follows:--I used to take a boat with my gun loaded with buckshot
+(chevrotine), and my rifle. I fired my rifle at the line of flamingoes
+when about 400 yards off, which used to bring them flying over the
+boat for curiosity, when I managed, generally with my gun, to bring
+down one or two. This is, I am sure, the best way of shooting them,
+though several Europeans told me at Tunis I could shoot them with the
+rifle.
+
+The shortest way direct to Tunis is by Malta; and, in passing, let the
+sporting tourist visit Gozo, where, in April and September, there is
+excellent quail shooting.
+
+The inhabitants of this isle are a simple, primitive race of people,
+very lively and intelligent; they speak nearly a pure Arabic. They
+live chiefly by fishing, and also serve as sailors in foreign vessels,
+where they remain sometimes entire years without being heard of by
+their families. In this way they often find a watery grave; and in the
+isle I met some females, whose male relations had all perished in this
+way.
+
+Navigation appears to have a great charm for these simple islanders;
+and when they sail along these southern waters, where the sun shines
+with a brilliant lustre, and the moon with a fairy splendour, they
+forget not the simple home where the members of their family are
+crouched side by side, enveloped in a sort of bournouse, and drinking
+perhaps tea which differs only nominally from the tepid waters of the
+surrounding ocean, and gabbling a jargon which one can scarcely
+believe that they understand themselves. The charm which binds these
+poor people together in their sober and modest existence is less the
+_penchant_ of natural and intimate affection, than the chain of habit,
+the necessity of a life of fraternal community and sentiment. A
+certain equality of position and social development gives them the
+same desires, the same ends of existence, and like ideas produce an
+easy mutual understanding. Each one reads, as it were, in the eye of
+the other; and when they talk, each knows what the other will say
+almost before he has opened his lips. All the ordinary relations of
+life are thus present to their memory; and so, by a simple intonation
+of the voice, by the expression of the visage, by a mute gesture, they
+excite, _inter se_, as many smiles or tears, more joy or vexation,
+than we, among our equals, could perhaps evoke by the longest
+demonstrations or declarations. For we civilised ones live, on an
+average, in intellectual solitude; each of us, thanks to our
+particular form of mind or education, has received a different bias of
+character; each of us, morally weighed, thinks, acts, and believes
+differently from his neighbour; and hence misunderstandings arise so
+frequently among us, that, even in the largest families, life in
+common becomes difficult, and we are often, as it were, apart, utterly
+unknown one to another, and everywhere feel ourselves as on strange
+territory.
+
+Races, indeed, have lived--aye, for centuries--in a state of community
+of ideas and sentiments such as I have described in the Isle of Gozo.
+Perhaps, but only perhaps, the Roman Church of the Middle Ages wished
+to establish among the nations of Catholic Europe such a state of
+equality and uniformity of spirit. Hence, no doubt, the reason why she
+took under her guardianship all the social relations, all the force
+and manifestations of this life--in fine, man himself, moral and
+physical man. I will not deny, nor will any one else, that much
+peaceful happiness, much piety has been established by these means;
+that human existence in the Middle Ages took an expression of greater
+fervour and intimacy; that the arts, like flowers, mysteriously
+developed, unfolded then, and showed to the day a beauty we now admire
+and deplore, and that the rash and unquiet spirit of modern days
+cannot imitate. But mind has its rights from all eternity; mind will
+not be fettered by dogmas, or lulled to sleep by the ringing of a
+bell; mind has cast aside his swaddling-clothes, and broken the string
+by which his nurse (the Roman Church) held him, and, in the madness
+and intoxication of his holiday, has rounded the globe, has traversed
+all nations, has scaled the Himalayas, and, returning again to Mother
+Earth, has begun to meditate over the wonders of creation by day, and
+the stars of heaven by night. We know not, indeed, nor ever shall,
+perhaps, the number of the stars that shine in the canopy of heaven;
+we have not yet unveiled the dread mysteries of earth or of sea.
+Enough: many enigmas are resolved; we know much--we guess at still
+more. There remains one question unsolved--it is this: Is there more
+real felicity in our minds now than there was in ancient times? I will
+confess that if we look at the many, now-a-days, we could scarcely
+answer this question in the affirmative; yet, it must also be
+remembered that happiness, which is in part due to mental tyranny, is
+scarcely true happiness, and that in the few moments of real
+intellectual dignity some educated man can enjoy more real felicity
+than the uneducated coal-heaver during many years of uninquiring
+tranquillity.
+
+But while, with a certain benevolence, I was dilating on the
+intentions of the Roman Church, I find myself all of a sudden seized
+with a zeal worthy of Exeter Hall. So I return to my Gozo friends.
+Living among these simple, Christian islanders, of Moorish descent,
+one is apt to meditate on the mighty transformations which have swept
+over Europe and left them untouched.
+
+The reason I recommend the route _viâ_ Malta and Tunis, instead of
+passing by Algiers, as I did, is the miserable accommodation on board
+the steamers between Tunis and Algiers. The passengers on these boats
+are chiefly bagmen and colonists of different nations. We had a
+Savoyard, a Spaniard, and two or three Frenchmen and Italians at one
+table; and the noise, and row, and heat after dinner were very
+edifying. Bottles were quickly emptied, and heads as quickly filled.
+One of the guests sung songs; another neighed; a third shouted in
+tragic verse; a fourth spoke Latin; and a fifth preached temperance; a
+sixth gave himself out for a professor, and his lecture was nearly as
+follows:--"The earth, my friends, is a cylinder, and men are but
+little diminutive dots spread over its surface, apparently at hazard;
+but _voilà_, the cylinder takes a fancy to turn, the little dots are
+hustled about, some here, others there, and so emit a sort of
+vibratory sound, some frequently, others more rarely; and this is the
+marvellous, complicated music that men call universal history," &c.
+&c. A fat-looking German, who kept his nose continually dipped in a
+glass of punch, inhaling the steam with a very gratified look,
+observed that he felt as though he was in the refreshment saloon of
+the Berlin theatre; while the Savoyard kept looking at us through his
+glass, as though it were a _lorgnette_, and the red wine streamed down
+his purple cheeks into his gaping jaws.
+
+And now to proceed to matters of sport. With regard to small game,
+partridges, ducks, quails, rabbits, &c., there is abundance to be
+found in Algeria. Near Algiers there is hawking of partridges and hares
+among the Arab tribes; and, before the French occupation, falconry was
+the especial amusement of the Arab aristocracy. For shooting of small
+game I would more especially recommend a caravanserai called Oued el
+Massin, about half way between Milianah and Teniet. Partridges and
+woodcock abound there; the quarters, moreover, are remarkably good,
+and the _cuisine_, superintended by my friend, Mr. Ball, is by no means
+despicable. From Oued el Massin, a day's journey beyond Milianah, I
+am convinced excellent shooting may be obtained with a couple of good
+pointers. Quails are also very numerous. Aquatic birds abound in
+Algeria, more especially on the lake Fetzara, near Bona, in the
+province of Constantine. Nothing is more beautiful than the lake
+Fetzara at sunrise; on its banks are a thousand plants and flowers
+of every colour and hue, and on its waters repose birds of every
+description and plumage. As yet it is dusk; everything animal and
+vegetable is in repose; but with the first ray of the sun come sounds
+and cries of every imaginable description, and thousands, aye,
+myriads, of birds are everywhere on the wing. In the impetuosity of
+their flight, they shake, as it were, the plants and flowers on the
+border of the lake, who thus pay their morning salute to the sun of
+Africa. A small barque, however, advances (_vide_ picture), and from
+this frail skiff suddenly appears the flash of a gun. In a moment the
+whole air is in motion; grebes with their beautiful plumage,
+flamingoes with flaming wings, wild swans, and ducks, and teals, by
+thousands whirl through the air.
+
+Is it really to be believed that Nature has affixed (so to speak) some
+danger to everything charming? One is almost tempted to say so, after
+examining the enchanting borders of this lake, whose azure waters flow
+from the mountainous frontier of Tunisia to the opulent plains of
+Bona. You botanists, who are attracted by the singular colour or
+strange beauty of some plant or flower here, beware how you approach.
+Under this magnificent vegetation a trap--a mortal trap--is laid: the
+banks are of quick-sand! One step, and you meet death--a horrible
+death. The earth gives way, and you disappear without a trace, for
+those delicious flowers and plants close up their ranks again, like
+immortelles over your sepulchre. Listen:--A French cavalry officer
+came from Bona to shoot flamingoes on this lake. He was accompanied by
+his servant, also on horseback. He shot a flamingo, who tumbled just
+on the border of the lake, and dispatched his servant to fetch the
+bird. At three or four yards from the bird, the soldier disappeared
+with his horse; and some Arabs, coming up, at the cries of the officer
+(for the Mussulman believes that the genius of the lake, propitious to
+Mahometans, devours the profane European), with difficulty saved his
+servant. As soon as the soldier was out of danger, he cried out, with
+all the gasconade of a Frenchman, "_Je ne laisserai pas là ce maudit
+oiseau, cause de ma mésaventure!_" In spite of the energetic
+dissuasions of the natives, whom, by the way, he could not understand,
+he advanced on foot; but the earth opened again--he disappeared. One
+moment his head remained above this liquid ground, one moment he cried
+for aid, and the abyss had swallowed its prey. However, at certain
+points, this lake is quite approachable; and, there being several
+barques, excellent sport may be had. I would, however, recommend
+sportsmen to procure a letter of introduction to some neighbouring
+grandee. There is an excellent caravanserai close by, at Ain Mokra.
+For gazelles one must go quite into the interior of the desert--to
+Boussada and Laghouat--in the great Sahara desert. Ghazella is, in
+the Arab language, the synonym for beauty and velocity.
+
+Those persons who really desire sport, however, I would recommend to
+travel from Algiers to Tunisia by land, and, if possible, let them
+pass by Kef, which is the frontier town. In the vicinity of this town
+there are, no doubt, plenty of lions; and my friend (who visited it
+with Dr. Davies, the celebrated explorer and excavator at Carthage)
+heard of several there, though his stay was so short that he did not
+succeed in bagging one. For lion-hunting, as for many other things,
+"_il faut bien de la patience_." Thus it very frequently happens that
+a man may search without success for months and months for the
+whereabouts of a lion, and then, suddenly, when your hunter is least
+prepared for it, and perhaps unarmed, the monarch of the desert will
+present himself to his astonished gaze. Notwithstanding the formidable
+character attributed to the lion, he will rarely attack any man unless
+previously molested. There are three sorts of lions in North
+Africa--the black, the tawny, and the grey, though the latter is by
+some supposed to be the same genus as the tawny, only grizzled by age.
+There are two ways of hunting the lion, by day and by night. That by
+day is by battue, when a whole tribe turns out to "beard the lion in
+his den" and make him break cover. Those who are well armed are posted
+at the outlets of the cover or beaten tracks by which the lion
+generally passes; any Europeans who assist are usually so stationed;
+they, however, need have but little fear, for the monarch almost
+always attacks the _tawny_ native by preference. Is it from sympathy
+of colour, _similia similibus gaudent_, or from a sort of instinct
+that the European is better armed, or because he supposes the Arab
+will make a better repast? The other way of killing the lion is in
+ambuscade, of which there are two or three kinds. Sometimes the
+hunters dig a hole in the ground near the spot where the lion is in
+the habit of passing by night; over this hole they throw branches of
+trees, which they cover with stones and mortar; they then place some
+bait near, which can be commanded through holes made in the covering,
+and when the lion approaches to examine the carcase, he is immediately
+brought down. Another way of shooting is from a tree. My friend, Count
+Zamoyski, who has a residence at the Lake Fetzara, shot several in
+this way. I will, however, refer the reader to Jules Gérard's book for
+a description of this kind of sport. I did not stay long enough in
+North Africa to be able to judge of it myself. What I recount now with
+regard to lion hunting is from hearsay, not from personal experience.
+
+The panther is a more dangerous animal than the lion, and much more
+cunning. Like his relative, the cat, he is very difficult to kill, and
+it must be a well-directed ball through the head or heart that will
+prevent him from avenging his wound. For the rest, he is hunted much
+as the lion. I will not mention the jackal and hyena, both of which
+animals can be shot after dusk from the tent or hut, by throwing out
+some carcase or bait before sunset to attract them. Let us pass to
+that animal which, in my opinion, of all creatures presents by far the
+best sport on the coast of Barbary--I mean, of course, the wild boar,
+or halouf, as he is called in the Arabic language.
+
+I had long had a desire to hunt the halouf. On my arrival at the
+Caid's house at Solyman (about twenty miles from Tunis), an old Arab
+named Mahmoud was sent for, who was reported to be, like Nimrod, a
+mighty hunter before the Lord and before the tribes.
+
+The next day we started before sunrise to the river, where the boar
+was supposed to be.
+
+_En route_ I questioned my Arab by interpreter. "The halouf," he
+replied, "when wounded, is as dangerous as the lion. I have," he
+continued, "myself seen a boar repulse the attack of a young lion."
+
+Of boars there are no doubt plenty in Tunisia. They are fond of lying
+in the thickest brushwood, what the French call _broussailles_, and
+the main difficulty is to drive them out. It requires some one
+perfectly conversant with Arabic, and having some authority over the
+natives, to make them beat properly; otherwise, in a short time they
+will give over, and pretend that there is nothing there. The best
+localities for boar are near Solyman, in Tunisia, and Biserta, about
+fifty miles from Tunis. As for Algeria, the country is now so much
+frequented by Europeans of all nations, who frighten, if they do not
+kill, the game, that one has to go a long way into the interior before
+any sport can be met with.
+
+The French talk a great deal about "_la chasseaux panthères_" and "_la
+chasse aux lions_," &c. &c.; but, in my humble opinion, their forte is
+"_la chasse aux dames_" or, in plain Saxon English, the success of the
+"_salon_." Let me conclude with a few words regarding regimen. In this
+burning climate, above all things observe temperance. I do not mean by
+that expression that you must be a teetotaller, but the more you can
+abstain from heating liquids or solids, the better. The other extreme,
+too, is bad; too much lemonade, or water, or sherbet, is apt to
+produce diarrhoea. Nature seems to have indicated to the Arabs the
+best beverage in this zone, both to quench thirst and to preserve
+health, viz., coffee; but as on a march or out shooting you cannot
+always stop to have a fire lit, the next best drink is a little weak
+brandy and water, which you should carry from where you start in the
+morning, as the water of the rivers is pestiferous. To avoid fever or
+malaria, I would always take a small quantity of bark of quinine.
+During the time I was in Africa I enjoyed most excellent health, as I
+believe everybody may who takes the commonest precautions, and does
+not indulge, as he may with impunity in more northern climes.
+
+Finally, let me give one piece of advice to the sportsman. If he
+comes to these countries with the expectation that he can, as in
+England, go out with his gun of a morning and return with his bag full
+in the evening to a capital dinner, he had better stay at home. To do
+anything in this country, a man must make his mind up to long and
+fatiguing marches in the heat of the day, with miserable quarters
+often at night, in places infested by vermin of every description; in
+a word, he must be content to rough it. I will also candidly own that,
+from the accounts I had previously received, I was very much
+disappointed as regards the quantity of large game to be found in
+these parts; still, I was, to a certain extent, indemnified for this
+by the pleasure of visiting a beautiful country, a remarkable people,
+and magnificent scenery, the entire appearance of which is utterly
+unlike what one is accustomed to see in the hackneyed countries of
+modern continental Europe.
+
+
+
+
+ITINERARY CARTE.
+
+
+ROUTE--from London to Marseilles, about forty-eight hours. Marseilles,
+Hôtel d'Orient.
+
+Marseilles to Algiers, average passage, three days. Hotels--Hôtel de
+la Régence and Hôtel de Paris, both good.
+
+Algiers to Blidah--horse or diligence--about five hours; Blidah to
+Medeah--horse or diligence--about eight hours; Blidah to Milianah,
+about fourteen hours. Blidah--Hôtel de la Régence; Medeah--Hôtel du
+Gastronome; Milianah--Hôtel d'Iffly.
+
+Milianah to Teniet, two days, staying at Oued el Massin, caravanserai;
+Teniet to Boghar, two days; Boghar to Laghouat, extremity of French
+frontier in Great Sahara Desert, three days.
+
+From there visit Boussada for Gargelles, thence to Constantine, five
+days; Constantine to Lake Fetzara and Bona, one day. Bona--Hôtel de
+France.
+
+Another way, is to return to Algiers and proceed by sea to Bona,
+passing Boujie, and Djidjelli, and Philippeville, about forty-eight
+hours.
+
+From Bona to Tunis, by sea, about eighteen hours; or by land, _viâ_
+Keff, the frontier town of Tunisia and Algeria, about six days; an
+escort required. Tunis--Hôtel de France.
+
+Tunis to Solyman, four hours; Tunis to Biserta, fourteen hours.
+
+On horseback, take two flannel shirts, one change of boots, and
+bournouse, &c. Average expense per diem, with horse and servant,
+twenty-five francs. I had three horses and one interpreter, and my
+expenses averaged £1 10s. _par jour_.
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+PETTER AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE PRINTING WORKS, LUDGATE HILL, E.C.
+
+
+
+
+                  *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+  Illustrations have been moved closer to their relevant paragraphs.
+  The page numbers in the List of Illustrations do not reflect the new
+  placement of the illustrations, but are as in the original.
+
+  Author's archaic and variable spelling and hyphenation is
+  preserved.
+
+  Author's punctuation style is preserved.
+
+  Passages in italics indicated by _underscores_.
+
+  Passages in bold indicated by =equal signs=.
+
+  Typographical problems have been changed and are listed below.
+
+
+Transcriber's Changes:
+
+
+  Page 5: Original Table of Contents lists Chapter III as page 17.
+
+  Page 8: Was 'unhapy' (his cutting sarcasm, and the =unhappy=
+          frivolity which defaces the works of the man)
+
+  Page 30: Was 'Kadir' (FURTHER EXPERIENCES:--Abd-el-=Kader= (but not
+           the Emir)--Difficult Road)
+
+  Page 33: Was 'twent' (The Arab had fired at the brute at =twenty=
+           paces, but missed his aim.)
+
+  Page 85: Was 'mattrass' (and the =mattress=--fancy now!--is stuffed
+           with sticks, and is so cursedly hard)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 30581-8.txt or 30581-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/5/8/30581/
+
+Produced by Dan Horwood and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/30581-8.zip b/30581-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f715ee0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-8.zip
diff --git a/30581-h.zip b/30581-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..56619cc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-h.zip
diff --git a/30581-h/30581-h.htm b/30581-h/30581-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06454fb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-h/30581-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,3506 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN"
+"http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd">
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+<head>
+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham.</title>
+
+<style type="text/css">
+    @media screen     {
+      hr.pb           {margin:30px 0; width:100%; border:none;border-top:thin dashed silver;}
+      .pagenum        {display: inline; font-size: x-small; text-align: right; text-indent: 0; position: absolute; right: 2%; padding: 1px 3px; font-style: normal; font-variant:normal; font-weight:normal; text-decoration: none; background-color: inherit; border:1px solid #eee;}
+      .pncolor        {color: silver;}
+    }
+    @media print      {
+      hr.pb           {border:none;page-break-after: always;}
+      .pagenum        { display:none; }
+    }
+    body              {margin-left: 11%; margin-right: 10%;}
+    p                 {margin-top: 0.5em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: 0.5em;}
+
+    .caption          {text-align:left; font-size:90%;}
+    .super            {vertical-align:super;}
+    .toc_ch_desc      {margin:auto auto 1em 4em; text-indent:-4em; text-align:justify;}
+    .toc_chapter      {margin-top:1em; text-align:center;}
+    .trnote           {background-color: #EEE; color: inherit; margin: 2em 5% 1em 5%; font-size: 80%; padding: 0.5em 1em 0.5em 1em; border: dotted 1px gray;}
+    blockquote        {display: block; margin: .75em 10% .75em 5%; font-size:0.9em;}
+    div p             {text-align:inherit;}
+    h1                {font-size:1.8em; line-height:1.8;}
+    h1,h2,h3          {font-weight:normal; text-align:center;}
+    h2                {font-size:1.5em;}
+    h3                {font-size:1.2em;}
+    hr.mini           {width: 20%; border:none; border-bottom:1px solid silver; clear:both; margin: 1em auto;}
+    ins.trchange      {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted gray;}
+    p.center, div.center p{text-align:center;}
+    table#toc, table#loi{max-width:800px;}
+
+    .chsp             {margin: auto; text-align: center; padding-top: 2em; padding-bottom: 1em;}
+    .figcenter        {margin: 2em auto 2em auto; text-align: center; width: auto;}
+    .figtag           {height: 1px;}
+    .smcap            {font-variant: small-caps;}
+    .smcaplc          {text-transform: lowercase; font-variant: small-caps;}
+    a                 {text-decoration: none;}
+    hr.toprule        {width: 65%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; border:none; border-bottom:1px solid silver; clear:both;}
+    p.cg              {margin-top: 0; margin-bottom: 0; text-align: left; width: 101%;}
+    p.ralign          {text-align: right !important;}
+    table             {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; clear: both;}
+    td.chalgn         {text-align:right; margin-top:0; padding-right:1em;}
+</style>
+
+</head>
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Notes in North Africa
+       Being a Guide to the Sportsman and Tourist in Algeria and Tunisia
+
+Author: W. G. Windham
+
+Release Date: December 2, 2009 [EBook #30581]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Dan Horwood and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<hr class='pb' />
+<div style='width:314px; margin:auto;'>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_1' id='linki_1'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/i002.jpg' alt='' title='' width='314' height='500' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+R. Pheney, lith.<span class='super' style='visibility:hidden;'>&nbsp;</span><span style='display:inline-block; float:right; width:auto;'>M. &amp; N. Hanhart, Imp<span class='super'>t</span>.</span></p><p class='caption' style='clear:both;'>MY TWO SERVANTS, ANGELO AND NERO.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<div class='center'>
+<p style='font-size:1.8em;'>NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA:</p>
+<p style='font-size:0.6em;'>BEING A</p>
+<p>GUIDE TO THE</p>
+<p style='margin-bottom:2em;'>SPORTSMAN AND TOURIST IN ALGERIA AND
+TUNISIA.</p>
+<p style='font-size:0.8em;'>BY</p>
+<p style='font-size:1.3em; margin-bottom:2em;'>W. G. WINDHAM, ESQ.</p>
+<hr class='mini' />
+<p>NEW EDITION, WITH COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS.</p>
+<hr class='mini' />
+<p style='margin-top:2em; line-height:150%;'>LONDON:<br />
+WARD AND LOCK, 158 FLEET STREET.</p>
+<p>1862.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+</div>
+<div class='center'>
+<p style='font-size:0.8em; line-height:150%;'>LONDON:<br />
+PETTER AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE PRINTING WORKS,<br />
+LUDGATE HILL, E.C.</p>
+</div>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='PREFACE_TO_THE_SECOND_EDITION' id='PREFACE_TO_THE_SECOND_EDITION'></a>
+<h2>PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.</h2>
+</div>
+<p>Two great faults have been found with my first
+edition. The first was, that I had offended many
+people by personal allusions. To this, I reply, that
+offence was very far from my mind; and to those
+offended (if any there be), I say, consider the expressions
+unsaid. For the rest, they are omitted in
+this edition. The second alleged defect is, that, while
+I call my book, to a certain extent, sporting, so little
+allusion is made to sport. I grant there is some
+reason in this, and accordingly I have added matter
+which I think will be useful to future sporting tourists.
+I would, however, not advise the man who seeks
+sport alone and solely to go to Algeria, as I am sure
+he will be disappointed, as I most decidedly was.
+With regard to the illustrations, I have taken the
+greatest pains that they may faithfully represent, not
+only the particular localities alluded to, but also
+give a fair idea of the country and climate of these
+latitudes.</p>
+<p class='ralign' style="margin-right:2.0em">W. G. WINDHAM.</p>
+<p style='text-indent: 2.0em;'><i>Hull, April, 1861.</i></p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='ILLUSTRATIONS' id='ILLUSTRATIONS'></a>
+<h2>ILLUSTRATIONS.</h2>
+</div>
+<table id='loi' border='0' cellpadding='2' cellspacing='0' summary='Illustrations' style='margin:1em auto;'>
+<col style='width:75%;' />
+<col style='width:25%;' />
+<tr>
+  <td />
+  <td valign='top' align='right'><p style='font-size:0.8em; text-align:right;'>TO FACE PAGE</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'>FRONTISPIECE: MY TWO SERVANTS&ndash;&ndash;ANGELO AND NERO</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_1'>1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'>SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL GREESHE</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_4'>20</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'>SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_2'>44</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left'>HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA, IN TUNISIA</td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#linki_3'>60</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='CONTENTS' id='CONTENTS'></a>
+<h2>CONTENTS.</h2>
+</div>
+<table id='toc' border='0' cellpadding='2' cellspacing='0' summary='Contents' style='margin:1em auto;'>
+<tr>
+  <td />
+  <td valign='top' align='right'><p style='font-size:0.8em; text-align:right;'>PAGE</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER I.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>The Voyage Out</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Paris in 1860&ndash;&ndash;Notre Dame&ndash;&ndash;Our Hotel&ndash;&ndash;Nero and the Groom&ndash;&ndash;The Steamer for Algeria&ndash;&ndash;Gallic Peculiarities&ndash;&ndash;Life on Board</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_I_THE_VOYAGE_OUT'>7</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER II.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Description of Algiers</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Arrival in Algeria&ndash;&ndash;Murray&rsquo;s Guide-books, and their Amenities&ndash;&ndash;Disembarkation in the Port of Algiers&ndash;&ndash;Our Fellow-travellers&ndash;&ndash;Algiers and its Inhabitants&ndash;&ndash;The Dey&rsquo;s Palace&ndash;&ndash;Cause of the French Invasion</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_II_DESCRIPTION_OF_ALGIERS'>13</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER III.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Life in Algiers</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Algerian Society&ndash;&ndash;A Soir&eacute;e at General Martinprez&rsquo;s&ndash;&ndash;The Sirocco&ndash;&ndash;My Maltese Companion&ndash;&ndash;The Theatre&ndash;&ndash;General Youssouf and his Career</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_III_LIFE_IN_ALGIERS'>19</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER IV.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'>&ldquo;<span class='smcap'>Up the Country</span>:&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;Departure from Algiers&ndash;&ndash;Blidah&ndash;&ndash;The Zouave Officers and their Companions&ndash;&ndash;Government Establishment of Horses&ndash;&ndash;Joseph, the Horse-dealer&ndash;&ndash;To Arbah&ndash;&ndash;The Caravanserai&ndash;&ndash;Journey towards Oued-el-Massin</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IV_UP_THE_COUNTRY'>25</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER V.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Further Experiences</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Abd-el-<a name='TC_2'></a><ins class="trchange" title="Was 'Kadir'">Kader</ins> (but not the Emir)&ndash;&ndash;Difficult Road&ndash;&ndash;Perils of the Way&ndash;&ndash;Prospect of Sport&ndash;&ndash;The First Boar&ndash;&ndash;The Chasseurs d&rsquo;Afrique&ndash;&ndash;Mine Hostess of the &ldquo;Scorpion&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;Teniet</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_V_FURTHER_EXPERIENCES'>30</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER VI.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Further Progress&ndash;&ndash;Religious Ceremonies</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Cold Weather&ndash;&ndash;Milianah&ndash;&ndash;Vezoul&ndash;&ndash;The Aubergiste&ndash;&ndash;El Afroun&ndash;&ndash;The Rhamazan&ndash;&ndash;Dancing Dervishes</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VI_FURTHER_PROGRESSRELIGIOUS_CEREMONIES'>36</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER VII.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Bona and its Vicinity</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Passage to Bona&ndash;&ndash;State of Affairs on Board&ndash;&ndash;Bona&ndash;&ndash;The Lake Metitza&ndash;&ndash;Ain Mokra&ndash;&ndash;Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VII_BONA_AND_ITS_VICINITY'>41</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER VIII.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>On to Tunis</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Algeria in General&ndash;&ndash;The Arabs and their Conquerors&ndash;&ndash;Antagonism between the Two Races&ndash;&ndash;Social Condition of the Arabs&ndash;&ndash;The <i>Oasis</i> Steamer&ndash;&ndash;Arrival at Tunis</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_VIII_ON_TO_TUNIS'>46</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER IX.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Marsa</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Angelo&rsquo;s Horsemanship&ndash;&ndash;The Bey&rsquo;s Palace at Marsa&ndash;&ndash;The Arabs and their Love of Tobacco&ndash;&ndash;The Friendly Moor at Camatte</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_IX_MARSA'>52</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER X.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>About Boar Shooting</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Sleeman&ndash;&ndash;the Oued el Ahwena&ndash;&ndash;Its Scenery, and its Dangers&ndash;&ndash;Beauty of the Landscape on its Banks</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_X_ABOUT_BOARSHOOTING'>55</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER XI.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Sporting Experiences</span>:&ndash;&ndash;El Greesh&ndash;&ndash;Shooting Hyenas&ndash;&ndash;An Expedition with the Arabs&ndash;&ndash;The Caid and his Family&ndash;&ndash;Another Wild Boar</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XI_SPORTING_EXPERIENCES'>59</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER XII.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Tunis and its Government</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Picturesque Situation of Tunis&ndash;&ndash;The Horse Market&ndash;&ndash;Effects of Race&ndash;&ndash;The Bazaars&ndash;&ndash;Mohamed Medea&ndash;&ndash;The Bardo&ndash;&ndash;The Bey of Tunis&ndash;&ndash;His Mode of administering Justice&ndash;&ndash;Prince Puckler Muskau&rsquo;s Account of his Interview</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XII_TUNIS_AND_ITS_GOVERNMENT'>62</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER XIII.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>The Ruins of Carthage</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Reflections on Ancient Carthage&ndash;&ndash;Hannibal and his Career&ndash;&ndash;An Arab Domicile&ndash;&ndash;Picturesque Appearance of the Ruins</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIII_THE_RUINS_OF_CARTHAGE'>69</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER XIV.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>The Ruins Again</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Great Extent of the Ancient City Marsa, on the Sea-shore&ndash;&ndash;Carthaginian Catacombs near Camatte&ndash;&ndash;Quail Shooting&ndash;&ndash;Trait of Honesty in the Arabs&ndash;&ndash;The Arab Character&ndash;&ndash;Anecdotes concerning them</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XIV_THE_RUINS_AGAIN'>76</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' colspan='2'><p class='toc_chapter'>CHAPTER XV.</p></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><p class='toc_ch_desc'><span class='smcap'>Home</span>:&ndash;&ndash;My Fellow-passenger, the Sportsman&ndash;&ndash;Passage from Tunis to Malta in a Sailing Vessel&ndash;&ndash;Disagreeables of the Passage&ndash;&ndash;Home Overland&ndash;&ndash;Conclusion</p></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#CHAPTER_XV_HOME'>83</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td valign='top' align='left' style='padding-right:4em;'><span class='smcap'>Notes for the Sportsman or Tourist in North Africa</span></td>
+  <td valign='bottom' align='right'><a href='#NOTES_FOR_THE_SPORTSMAN_OR_TOURIST_IN_NORTH_AFRICA'>88</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_7' name='page_7'></a>7</span></div>
+<h1>NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA.</h1>
+</div>
+<div class='chsp'>
+<a name='CHAPTER_I_THE_VOYAGE_OUT' id='CHAPTER_I_THE_VOYAGE_OUT'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+<h3>THE VOYAGE OUT.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Paris in 1860.&ndash;&ndash;Notre Dame.&ndash;&ndash;Our Hotel.&ndash;&ndash;Nero and the Groom.&ndash;&ndash;The
+Steamer for Algeria.&ndash;&ndash;Gallic Peculiarities.&ndash;&ndash;Life on Board.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p><i>In medias res.</i> I will not stop to describe my journey
+to Paris, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Folkestone, nor to chronicle the glasses
+of pale ale&ndash;&ndash;valedictory libations to <i>perfide</i> Albion,
+quaffed at the Pavilion&ndash;&ndash;nor to portray the sea-sickness
+of &ldquo;mossoo,&rdquo; nor the withering indignation of
+the British female when her wardrobe was searched.
+Briefly, kind reader, be pleased to understand that
+we arrived in safety&ndash;&ndash;guns, rifles, &ldquo;and all&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;at the
+H&ocirc;tel du Louvre, in Paris, at about eleven o&rsquo;clock on
+a certain day in February, 1860.</p>
+<p>The next day was Sunday, and I went to hear
+vespers at Notre Dame. How I love the old gothic
+cathedrals, that seem to remove one at once from
+this work-day world&ndash;&ndash;the fanes wherein the very air
+seems redolent of devotion, and peopled with phantoms
+of the past! &rsquo;Spite of all disparagement, there
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_8' name='page_8'></a>8</span>
+is something grand and solemn about them. After
+service, I ascended one of the towers to the gallery
+immortalised by Victor Hugo&rsquo;s wonderful romance.
+The day was declining, and sunset had already commenced.
+The galleries were crowded with students
+and respectable operatives and <i>bourgeois</i>, with their
+wives and children. Every face was bathed in the
+purple light of the departing sun, and many eyes
+lifted up in silent meditation.</p>
+<p>I was aroused from the reverie into which the contemplation
+of this glorious sight had thrown me, by
+hearing a female voice exclaim, &ldquo;How beautiful is
+Nature&ndash;&ndash;how magnificent!&rdquo; I turned, and saw two
+ladies, evidently mother and daughter, of sufficiently
+pleasing appearance. It was from the elder that the
+exclamation had come, which brought me back from
+my dream to this nether world. Conquering the
+shyness which appears to be the Englishman&rsquo;s birthright,
+I made some remark on the beauties of sunset.
+Like the earth, we revolved round the sun; but, unlike
+that planet, we quickly diverged into other orbits.
+I dimly remember that we talked of Angola cats,
+Dresden china, Turkish chibouques, maccaroni, and
+Lord Byron, with whose poems this lady seemed
+sufficiently familiar. I improved the occasion, as the
+right thing to do, when talking with ladies about
+Byron, to find fault with his impiety, his blasphemous
+scepticism, his cutting sarcasm, and the <a name='TC_1'></a><ins class="trchange" title="Was 'unhapy'">unhappy</ins> frivolity
+which defaces the works of the man, who, with all
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_9' name='page_9'></a>9</span>
+his faults, was undoubtedly the greatest poet the nineteenth
+century has yet produced.</p>
+<p>A pleasant walk along the quays brought me back
+to my hotel, in the courtyard of which establishment
+I found an admiring circle of idlers surrounding my
+English groom, who had just arrived with my dog
+Nero; or rather Nero, who seemed by far the most
+popular character of the two, had just arrived
+with him; and both appeared to know about as
+much French one as the other, and to make themselves
+equally understood or misunderstood. That
+evening, my friend and travelling companion,
+B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and I dined at Dotesio&rsquo;s, in the Rue
+Castiglione, where we had an excellent dinner,
+washed down by more excellent wine. The next
+day found us at Marseilles, at the H&ocirc;tel D&rsquo;Orient,
+concerning which hostelry I have merely to place on
+record the fact, that B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; was mulcted in the sum
+of five francs for the matutinal cold tub in which it
+was his custom to indulge.</p>
+<p>The steamer which was to convey us to Algeria
+was well fitted up in every way. We were the only
+Englishmen on board. The fore part of the deck
+was crowded with Zouaves and French soldiers of
+various denominations, with whom Nero soon made
+himself perfectly at home, though the exclamation of
+a Zouave on his first appearance seemed to forbode
+but an indifferent reception for the four-footed intruder.
+&ldquo;<i>Cr&eacute; nom d&rsquo;un chien</i>&rdquo; cried the shaven,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_10' name='page_10'></a>10</span>
+fez-capped warrior, &ldquo;<i>mais je ne t&rsquo;aimerais pas pour
+mon camarade du lit!</i>&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Breakfast was served in French fashion on board
+at ten o&rsquo;clock, and dinner at five. With one or two
+exceptions, the company consisted of French commercial
+travellers, and they were split up into the
+usual hostile factions of north against south. North,
+of course, commenced the conversation with Paris,
+<i>Paris</i>, and again <span class='smcap'>Par-rri</span>; the southerners every
+now and then throwing in a doubt of the universal
+superiority of the metropolis over the known world.
+One disputant stood out for Marseilles, another broke
+a lance for Bordeaux, and the war of words waxed so
+fierce that I began to tremble for the consequences.
+One young man in company had been some time at
+Bordeaux, and had much to say thereon; but all his
+remarks were on one subject&ndash;&ndash;the theatre. On its
+beauty, its luxury, and its actresses, he held forth at
+unwearied but wearisome length.</p>
+<p>While this conversation was going on, the inner
+man was by no means neglected. Stewed pullets, potatoes,
+salad, and etceteras, disappeared with marvellous
+celerity. The cheer was by no means bad, though
+decidedly Proven&ccedil;al, as I remarked to my next neighbour,
+a dark-looking Marsellais; which observation, by
+the way, brought down upon me the anger of the
+Gods, as impersonated by a large, fat, dirty Calaisien,
+sitting opposite. He was a big man, this champion,
+and, according to Cervantes, should, by consequence,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_11' name='page_11'></a>11</span>
+have been a good-natured one. Giving himself a
+sounding blow on the chest for emphasis, he declared
+the Calaisiens to be an infinitely more moral people
+than the Marseillais&ndash;&ndash;and washed down his own dictum
+with an enormous glass of <i>bi&egrave;re blanche</i>. I am rather
+fond of going to sleep after dinner; so I secured my
+nap on cheap terms, by feigning an interest in the
+Picard virtues, and accordingly enjoyed a profound
+rest, disturbed only at intervals by a monotonous and
+expostulatory &ldquo;<i>allons donc!</i>&rdquo; thrown in by another
+dissentient southerner. He was an enormously fat man,
+the new disputant, and wore a mass of very greasy hair,
+hanging down over his shoulders. His flannel shirt,
+an exceedingly dingy specimen of British manufacture,
+did duty for a waistcoat also; but he was <i>decor&eacute;</i>,
+though it was very doubtful to what order the medal
+on his breast may have belonged.</p>
+<p>Our captain merits a word of description. He was
+a short, red-faced individual, of such ineffable seediness,
+as regarded costume, that I should never have suspected
+his station but for the fact that he sported a
+gold band &ldquo;<i>bien usit&eacute;</i>&rdquo; round his cap, and sat at the
+head of the table. For the credit of French politeness
+be it, however, added, he was a perfect gentleman
+in his behaviour throughout the voyage. There was
+also a young French naval officer, whom I afterwards
+got to know much better in Algeria. He, too, like all
+the Legitimists, was a most finished gentleman, and
+spoke English well&ndash;&ndash;a common accomplishment among
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_12' name='page_12'></a>12</span>
+the officers of the French navy. Though quite a
+young fellow, he had been in the Russian and Chinese
+wars, and imparted some very amusing and instructive
+intelligence on both these subjects.</p>
+<p>As the noise and the intimacy at the table increased,
+and the punch and cognac had already
+&ldquo;chased&rdquo; the wine, I adjourned with B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and the
+French sailor to the after-deck, and, in company with
+two young Dutch travellers, smoked our Havanas in
+a climate that was already African in its heat, while
+Majorca and Minorca faded away in the distance, and
+the pale moon rose silently over the quiet sea.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_13' name='page_13'></a>13</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_II_DESCRIPTION_OF_ALGIERS' id='CHAPTER_II_DESCRIPTION_OF_ALGIERS'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+<h3>DESCRIPTION OF ALGIERS.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Arrival in Algeria.&ndash;&ndash;Murray&rsquo;s Guide-books, and their Amenities.&ndash;&ndash;Disembarkation
+in the Port of Algiers.&ndash;&ndash;Our Fellow-travellers.&ndash;&ndash;Algiers
+and its Inhabitants.&ndash;&ndash;The Dey&rsquo;s Palace.&ndash;&ndash;Cause of the
+French Invasion.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Next morning, at eight o&rsquo;clock, came the waiter with
+the intelligence&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;<i>Nous sommes dans la baie d&rsquo;Alger,
+monsieur, &agrave; une heure de la ville.</i>&rdquo; My desire to see
+Algiers was vehement indeed; but scarcely less strong
+was the craving of the inner man for bread and coffee.
+With the nectar of Arabia, however, the inspiration of
+the Orient seemed to percolate my veins; but when a
+fragrant glass of cognac crowned the meal, the aroma
+of the East enveloped me, the delicious strains of
+Bulbul rang in my ears, the Calaisien and the Marseillais,
+sitting stolidly before me, became straightway
+transformed into camels, the stewardess into a houri,
+and the noses of the passengers were as masques in
+my enraptured sight.</p>
+<p>But the book at my side was not the Koran,
+though it might have been, for the strange farrago it
+contained.</p>
+<p>It was a celebrated traveller&rsquo;s manual in the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_14' name='page_14'></a>14</span>
+English language, and in red binding. The king of
+the Cannibal Islands has not in his library a more
+absurd volume than this manual; for in its pages
+pathetic bagmen give vent to their ludicrous ebullitions
+concerning the Alhambra, or the Rhine, or any foreign
+lion you please to name; and young boys just escaped
+from school dish up their first impressions of the
+Continent in a style as savoury as the flavour of a
+Spanish olla podrida. And yet, ascend the Rhine, go
+to Venice or to St. Petersburg, and ten to one for
+the chance, that when you meet an Englishman he
+will have that eternal manual clutched in his British
+grasp.</p>
+<p>Oh, my dear and well-beloved countrymen, what
+creatures of fashion and precedent we all are, from
+high to low! What one does, the rest must do; and
+in the self-same manner. I verily believe, if the late
+Albert Smith had left it on record that, in ascending
+Mont Blanc, he planted his foot in a certain hole in
+the snow, every one of his successors in that glorious
+undertaking would have paid their guides an extra
+dollar for indicating to them the identical cavity, that
+they might go and do likewise. Thank goodness, Algeria
+is as yet encumbered by no manual or &ldquo;Hand-book,&rdquo;
+as our modern Germanised phraseology elects to call
+the egregious productions; so shall we travellers be at
+liberty to follow our own noses, to go exactly where
+we like, and to do what we please, even to dressing
+like Arabs, should the whim seize us. Moreover, we
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_15' name='page_15'></a>15</span>
+may do in Rome as Rome does, and enjoy a French
+breakfast washed down with good wine in lieu of bad
+tea, without having ourselves or our proceedings
+stigmatised as &ldquo;shocking,&rdquo; as would undoubtedly be
+our lot at Paris, or Brussels, or Berlin.</p>
+<p>Behold us, then, in happy hour, ready to disembark
+in Algiers, with the children of the desert thronging
+on board to act as porters. Their appearance pleases
+me much, as they come forward, with their tall,
+striking figures, dark eyes, and distinguished mien.
+&ldquo;Perfect gentlemen, these,&rdquo; said I to myself; but beneath
+the outside crust little remains that can be called
+gratifying. These men are like the apple of Sodom;
+at least, so I thought on landing, after a long squabble
+with them respecting the passage money, carried on
+in bad Italian and French. A nearer acquaintance
+with them may, perhaps, modify my views on this
+subject.</p>
+<p>&ldquo;Well, it has been a pleasant time on board the
+packet,&rdquo; is my parting reflection as I step ashore; nor
+shall I lightly forget the captain, so different in his
+politeness and urbanity from the sea-bear with whom
+I sailed in the North Sea; nor the honest Hamburgher,
+who appeared to have an equally beloved wife in
+every land and in every place we came to; nor
+the would-be dandy, who lit cigars innumerable,
+and invariably flung them overboard after the first
+puff; nor the priests, who seemed to possess the gift of
+invisibility, so rarely did they show themselves; nor
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_16' name='page_16'></a>16</span>
+the hundred thousand events and personages that flash
+upon our path for a moment on our journey through
+life, and then linger in the memory only as the dim
+phantoms of a dream that has passed away.</p>
+<p>Algiers, seen from the sea, presents the appearance
+of a vast triangular cone, situated on the slope of
+a mountain. Like all the inhabitants of Northern
+Africa, the Algerians were at an early period Christians,
+and it was only after several battles that the
+Mahometan religion was finally established all over the
+coast of Barbary. Before the French occupation, the
+Algerian ladies, like the females in all Mussulmen
+countries, were kept in the strictest seclusion. The
+wife of a rich Moor never left her home except to go
+to the baths, and even that expedition was undertaken
+only at night. When it became absolutely necessary
+that ladies should go abroad in daylight, their faces
+were covered, and the whole figure so concealed by a
+redundancy of wrappings, that a stranger would be
+puzzled to find out what the moving bundles were.
+The luxury of the bath is greatly used by them. There
+are public as well as private baths. They consist of
+three apartments. The first is a large hall, for dressing
+and undressing; in the second, the visitors perspire;
+and the third is for bathing proper, or otherwise, as
+tastes and opinions somewhat differ. After the bath,
+those of the male sex repair to the first room for
+lemonade or coffee, or for a pipe. The modern
+Mahometan ladies of Algiers have almost abandoned
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_17' name='page_17'></a>17</span>
+this seclusion. They are seen gadding about everywhere,
+and are reported as being by no means particular
+or difficult in their conquests. French ideas
+and morals have percolated them considerably.
+Excessive obesity is regarded among Mahometans
+as the perfection of beauty; so that, instead of using
+powders and other nostrums to reduce themselves,
+like some of my friends at home, they devour seeds
+and <i>couscous</i>, the national dish, especially employed
+for fattening people. Some young ladies are crammed
+to such a degree that they die under the operation.</p>
+<p>On a fine, hot day in February, 1860, I mounted
+the conical hill on which Algiers is built. The weather
+was magnificent. The sun of Africa already made his
+approach felt, and the mountains in the far horizon
+stood out like <i>bas-reliefs</i> against the azure sky. Here
+stood the palace of the Dey before the French occupation.
+The building is now called the <i>casbah</i>, and
+used as a large barrack; outside are the Moorish
+houses, and the chief part of the Moorish population.</p>
+<p>The cause of quarrel between France and Algeria,
+which resulted in the conquest of the country by the
+Gallic legions was as follows:&ndash;&ndash;The Dey, a pasha of
+the old Turkish school, was, it appears, a potentate of
+extravagant disposition, and owed the French Government
+a considerable sum of money. The creditors,
+being in a hurry for their cash, dunned the Dey incessantly,
+through the agency of their consul. Unaccustomed
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_18' name='page_18'></a>18</span>
+to the eagerness of French importunity,
+the Dey, on one unlucky occasion, made a gesture of
+impatience with his fan, as a man might do with his
+riding-whip, if his tailor became too pressing for the
+settlement of his account. It proved an expensive
+gesture, however; for within a few weeks it brought
+10,000 French soldiers to the shores of the Dey, and
+cost him his entire realm. The bulk of the Mauresque
+and Turkish population quitted Algeria with their
+families on the arrival of the French. Those who
+remain are the poorer classes, and now live, if report
+speaks true, in an immoral state. These events took
+place in the reign of that peaceful monarch, Louis
+Philippe.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_19' name='page_19'></a>19</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_III_LIFE_IN_ALGIERS' id='CHAPTER_III_LIFE_IN_ALGIERS'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+<h3>LIFE IN ALGIERS.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Algerian Society.&ndash;&ndash;A <i>Soir&eacute;e</i> at General Martinprez&rsquo;s.&ndash;&ndash;The Sirocco.&ndash;&ndash;My
+Maltese Companion.&ndash;&ndash;The Theatre.&ndash;&ndash;General Youssouf and
+Career.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>I have described Algiers as being built on the side of
+a mountain. The city possesses a commodious and
+safe harbour, where flutter the colours of every nation,
+from the red flag of the Swede to the Spaniard&rsquo;s
+yellow ensign. Economy of space being a primary
+consideration in the laying out of the city, the houses
+have been built very high, and the streets made very
+narrow, so that there is no room for carriages. The
+Consul has a very fine Mauresque house in the old
+Turkish quarter, where he invited me to dinner and
+a <i>soir&eacute;e</i> the day after my arrival; and the next day I
+was invited to the reception of the Governor, General
+Martinprez.</p>
+<p>The General received me and my companions
+most graciously, and, after keeping me in conversation
+for about five minutes, introduced me to his lady, a
+very pleasing person. My friend A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and I were
+then introduced to two or three other fashionable
+ladies of Algiers; and, engrossed in conversation with
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_20' name='page_20'></a>20</span>
+these; we strangers were unconscious of a general
+movement of the gentlemen towards the farther end
+of the room, as a preliminary to the amateur concert.
+I was quite ignorant of this Algerian regulation, by
+which the gentlemen and ladies are separated as
+effectually as in a Lutheran church (a fashion,
+by-the-bye, we appear to be adopting). Accordingly,
+on looking up, I observed, to my infinite
+chagrin, that I was the &ldquo;observed of all observers,&rdquo;
+and probably was set down as a <i>b&ecirc;te Anglais</i>,
+who knew no better. The extensive crinoline
+of the ladies effectually prevented a retreat in any
+direction, and I was unpleasantly conscious of the
+suppressed titter the fair ones tried to conceal behind
+their fans. I endeavoured to summon up all the
+resources of my London phlegm, to support me in
+this ridiculous position; but, unfortunately, I possess
+very little of that desirable quality. The fair one with
+whom I was conversing evidently felt for the unpleasantness
+of my situation, and very good-naturedly
+kept me talking till the end of the first piece, when I
+succeeded in making my escape.</p>
+<p>How I inwardly abused the opera they were performing!
+It was called &ldquo;<i>Le Diable</i>;&rdquo; and to me it
+appeared as though the fiend in question had no tail&ndash;&ndash;or
+rather, <i>no end</i>&ndash;&ndash;to that appendage, so long did the
+time seem. Far be it from me to despise the arts;
+I admire them in every shape, except in the compound
+form of speech: <i>exempli grati&acirc;</i>, art-union, art-school,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_21' name='page_21'></a>21</span>
+&amp;c. Why, in the name of common sense, can we not
+talk English instead of German, and say school of arts,
+union of arts, &amp;c.? I suppose we shall soon go a step
+farther in imitation of our Germanic neighbours, and
+call poetry by the appellation of poet-art. In the last
+century, it seemed likely, as Johnson said, that we should
+babble a dialect of France; in this, there is more
+danger of our talking a Teutonic jargon. Let us stick
+to the middle course&ndash;&ndash;for our language is essentially
+half way between the German and the French, the
+Teutonic and Romance tongues, and any attempt to
+approximate too much to either extreme is simply
+preposterous.</p>
+<p>The next day we had the sirocco; and, to quote
+the expression with which I once heard a popular
+preacher commence a sermon, it was &ldquo;d&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;d hot.&rdquo;
+Start not, ladies of Belgravia, for the preacher in
+question belonged not to the Anglican communion;
+he held forth to mere vulgar audiences, at least, in a
+remote locality. Thrice he repeated the expression
+(which I will not), and then improved the occasion by
+describing a place hotter than the crowded chapel in
+which he was officiating, in the month of July. He
+was evidently in his element. He was especially hot
+against those modern spirits, who are not such faithful
+believers in the burning flames of the lower regions,
+and even begin to imagine they may have cooled
+down, if they have not been quite extinguished.
+&ldquo;And if&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;he cried, in his ardour&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;if they were
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_22' name='page_22'></a>22</span>
+on the point of being extinguished, I would with my
+own breath rekindle the expiring flame!&rdquo; And his
+voice, which sounded like a gale of wind, and his
+face, red as a furnace, and his enormous fists fiercely
+clenched, made it appear to the congregation, for
+the moment, that this terrifying assertion was no
+exaggeration. But to return to the sirocco.</p>
+<p>In spite, or rather by reason of the heat, I went
+for a stroll on the sea-shore with Nero, that we might
+cool our wearied limbs in the azure wave of the
+Mediterranean. We had been walking along the
+shore for about a mile, when about twenty Arab dogs
+rushed out most ferociously at Nero, and would, I
+believe, have torn him to pieces, but for the large
+hunting-whip with which I managed to keep them at
+bay. There was with me a young Maltese boy, of
+Irish parentage&ndash;&ndash;a most amusing character this urchin
+was. He wanted me to take him into the interior as
+my interpreter. &ldquo;Take me wid you, sir,&rdquo; was his
+eloquent appeal; &ldquo;give me pound a month, sir; tell
+Arabs you brother of Queen Victoria, sir; Arabs great
+fools, sir; know no better, sir;&rdquo; but I was proof
+against the voice of the charmer.</p>
+<p>In returning, I met General Martinprez on horseback,
+and saluted; of course, he returned my greeting
+most graciously. But I was not a little amused, and
+could hardly help laughing, when the young Hiberno-Maltese
+tatterdemalion took off his dirty cap with a
+flourish to the General, simultaneously with my salute,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_23' name='page_23'></a>23</span>
+as if he had been my confidential friend, taking a
+promenade with me.</p>
+<p>That evening I went to the theatre. The piece
+performed was &ldquo;<i>Les Femmes Terribles</i>&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;and a terribly
+Gallic flavour there was diffused over the whole
+performance&ndash;&ndash;a kind of <i>haut go&ucirc;t</i>, for which we stolid
+islanders have, happily, no relish.</p>
+<p>General Youssouf was at the theatre this evening.
+He is rather a fine-looking man, and not too stout.
+His is a curious history. Originally a Christian slave
+at Tunis, supposed to be the son of Italian parents,
+he received the name of Youssouf (Joseph) from his
+Mussulman masters at Tunis, where he was employed
+in the Bey&rsquo;s palace. Of fine stature and handsome
+appearance, the Christian slave soon attracted the
+notice of the Bey&rsquo;s daughter, an honour to which he
+was not insensible. The Bey was soon informed of
+what was going on, and Joseph would have been caged,
+if not racked, had not some kind friend apprised him
+of the discovery, and of his own consequent danger.
+A French man-of-war happened to be in the harbour at
+La Goeletta, off Tunis, and young Youssouf, then about
+twenty years of age, managed to effect his escape on
+board. The Franks, of course, gladly received him
+as an escaped Christian slave. The Bey sent to demand
+him back; but the French commander gave
+him politely to understand that he would see the Bey
+experiencing the reverse of the joys of Paradise before
+he would comply with such a request. The vessel set
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_24' name='page_24'></a>24</span>
+sail next day for Algiers, where the Gallic occupation
+had just commenced. Young Youssouf&ndash;&ndash;who,
+in addition to his knowledge of French and Italian,
+could, of course, speak Arabic perfectly&ndash;&ndash;was here
+landed, and became interpreter to a foot regiment.
+Quick and clever, he was soon promoted, till he
+attained an officer&rsquo;s rank. He is now a general in
+the service. Entertaining&ndash;&ndash;perhaps naturally&ndash;&ndash;a
+mortal hatred of the Arabs, he has generally been
+selected to enforce those stern acts of reprisal against
+the native population, which, though perhaps justified
+by necessity, still bear the impress of great severity,
+and are unpalatable to officers of French birth and
+education. These measures he has always carried out
+with strict fidelity and unrelenting harshness. He
+was the centre of attraction this evening&ndash;&ndash;every battery
+of eyes was turned upon him. He had fought
+a duel with the editor of a newspaper, only that morning,
+for abusing him or his wife, and had succeeded
+in running the journalist through the shoulder.</p>
+<p>The next few days I was engaged in making purchases,
+chiefly of shot and necessary travelling articles,
+for the interior. I was swimming my dog in the
+water of the port, according to my daily custom, when
+I stumbled on my servant, Angelo, whom I determined
+to take with me into the interior. Besides
+English, which he spoke very well, he could talk
+Arabic quite fluently, and I found him very useful.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_25' name='page_25'></a>25</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_IV_UP_THE_COUNTRY' id='CHAPTER_IV_UP_THE_COUNTRY'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+<h3>&ldquo;UP THE COUNTRY.&rdquo;</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Departure from Algiers.&ndash;&ndash;Blidah.&ndash;&ndash;The Zouave Officers and their
+Companions.&ndash;&ndash;Government Establishment of Horses.&ndash;&ndash;Joseph, the
+Horse-dealer.&ndash;&ndash;To Arbah.&ndash;&ndash;The Caravanserai.&ndash;&ndash;Journey towards
+Oued-el-Massin.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On Thursday, March 8th, after seeing A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; start,
+by diligence, with innumerable bags of cheviotine
+(deer-shot), I and Angelo left Algiers with my newly-purchased
+horses, and, passing through some very
+pretty country, stopped at the first village, where
+De Warn, a French officer, came up on horseback,
+with his groom. He admired my horses very much,
+and announced his destination to be the Maison
+Carr&eacute;e, where he was going to shoot quails, a friend
+of his having bagged forty there in one afternoon. It
+came on to rain very hard as we passed through the
+plain of the Medidja, and arrived at Bouffaseh, where
+there is a column raised to the memory of twenty-three
+men killed there during the war. We galloped
+in to Blidah, the rain pouring down on us. At
+dinner, I met A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; in a <i>caf&eacute;</i>, with Count L&rsquo;Esparre
+and three or four officers of the 1st Regiment of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_26' name='page_26'></a>26</span>
+Zouaves. They were a very pleasant set of fellows,
+but did not appear to admire their remote quarters at
+Blidah by any means. The heat, during the height
+of summer, they informed me, was terrific, and the
+private soldiers are not allowed to quit their quarters
+between 10 <span class='smcaplc'>A.M.</span> and 5 <span class='smcaplc'>P.M.</span> during the four hottest
+months of the year. We drank unlimited punch to
+the &ldquo;Alliance,&rdquo; and, on returning to the hotel, after a
+mutual exchange of good wishes, we found familiar
+faces&ndash;&ndash;belonging to the Dutchmen who had travelled
+with us from Marseilles to Algiers.</p>
+<p>I went with Count L&rsquo;Esparre to see the Government
+establishment of horses. There were some very fine
+creatures of Arab breed; also some Persian horses
+which had been presented by the Shah of Persia.
+We then started on horseback for Medea, and on
+my way passed the &ldquo;Grotto of Monkeys,&rdquo; but none of
+the animals from which the grotto takes its name met
+my inquiring gaze. The Rocher Pourri, which I also
+passed on my way, had just acquired an additional but
+a lugubrious celebrity, an Arab having killed a Frenchman
+there the day before. We rode on to Medea
+through a rattling snow-storm, and arrived properly
+powdered at the H&ocirc;tel du Gastronome, where they
+made us comfortable enough. Medea is built in a very
+elevated situation, among the mountains, and must be
+a very cold place.</p>
+<p>On the next day, Saturday, it was still snowing
+hard. A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; had to provide himself with a horse, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_27' name='page_27'></a>27</span>
+we were afterwards both engaged, with Angelo, my
+Maltese servant, looking for mules to carry our baggage
+to Teniet. At the hotel, there was a very celebrated
+picture by Horace Vernet, for which one of
+the Dutchmen offered a thousand francs, but the offer
+was declined by Madame Gerard. In my opinion,
+the picture was far from being a masterpiece.</p>
+<p>Rising early on Sunday, I was immediately pounced
+upon by a set of Arabs, who had engaged to take our
+luggage, and to whom we had paid a deposit in advance.
+They now refused to take our luggage at five francs
+per day, the sum agreed upon, unless we retained their
+valuable services all the time we remained at Teniet,
+which, of course, we never contemplated doing. I
+demanded back the deposit, but they would not give
+it up. On going to the Bureau Arabe, we found it
+closed, and the Commandant de Ville, to whom some
+officers recommended us to apply, was gone to Blidah,
+so there was nothing for it but to invoke the aid of
+Joseph, a French horse-dealer, who engaged to take
+our effects on two mules to Teniet at seven and a half
+francs per mule per day, we paying the return journey.
+After all, we could not manage to get off until one
+o&rsquo;clock in the day. Joseph accompanied us as far as
+Lodi, to indicate the route to the caravanserai of
+Arbah, where we were to stay for the night. The
+good horse-dealer insisted on our taking two or three
+<i>petits verres</i> on the road. A terrible fellow he was
+for &ldquo;nips,&rdquo; that Joseph.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_28' name='page_28'></a>28</span></div>
+<p>The road to Arbah lay across a very barren, desert,
+mountainous country, with splendid views over the
+whole Atlas range, as far as Mostaganem, now covered
+with snow. We passed one or two Arab villages, and
+had great difficulty in finding our way, on account of
+the number of roads that branched off right and left.
+On the journey we passed a very fine house belonging
+to a rich Arab chief. We were sorely tempted to turn
+in here, but refrained, and arriving at the caravanserai
+at about seven o&rsquo;clock, found a party of French officers
+just sitting down to dinner. They very politely invited
+us to join them.</p>
+<p>The caravanserai is a Government establishment.
+In form it resembles a large farm yard, entirely walled
+in and crenellated. It has stalls for horses, and good
+accommodation for European travellers. A large fair
+is held here every Wednesday, chiefly for the sale of
+native horses. We had a long and interesting talk
+with the officers, and then retired to bed, but not to
+sleep, for our baggage had not arrived, and the bitter
+cold kept us in a state of enforced watchfulness.</p>
+<p>Before breakfast, next day, I walked out on a tour
+of inspection through the neighbourhood. The caravanserai
+is situated almost in the desert; and very
+cold and barren are its surroundings. During breakfast,
+we were rejoiced by the arrival of our baggage,
+and at once started for Ouad-el-Massin. There is a
+very grand sensation of solitude and silence in riding
+through these vast plains. The weather was still
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_29' name='page_29'></a>29</span>
+tremendously cold and rainy. I managed to shoot
+two partridges as we came along.</p>
+<p>A chapter of accidents now began. My Maltese
+servant had been mistaken concerning the capacity of
+our mules; for they broke down, and we were obliged
+to leave them behind. Then my horse, an exceedingly
+vicious brute, nearly succeeded in appropriating a
+piece of Angelo&rsquo;s shoulder, as the latter stooped to
+tighten the girths. I found afterwards that my steed
+had a very bad character all over the country; his ill
+fame, however, was slightly redeemed by the fact that
+he was a good goer. Then we missed our way among
+the mountains, and with difficulty succeeded, just as
+it was getting dark, in reaching a small house at
+Guebla, kept by a Frenchman. The proprietor received
+us very hospitably, and gave us all the accommodation
+he could: it was of rather a limited character,
+inasmuch as we all slept together in the small room
+where we dined and breakfasted. Our host informed
+us that there were a great number of lions in the
+neighbourhood. He had himself been surprised by
+one, just after dusk, on the road from Milianca, and
+offered to induce the Caid of the adjoining tribe to
+get up a battue on our return. He also spoke of the
+great number of wild boars in a way that would make
+a hunter&rsquo;s heart leap within him. We retired to rest,
+and, sheltered for the nonce from the searching cold,
+I slept as only a weary traveller can.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_30' name='page_30'></a>30</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_V_FURTHER_EXPERIENCES' id='CHAPTER_V_FURTHER_EXPERIENCES'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+<h3>FURTHER EXPERIENCES.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Abd-el-Kader (but not the Emir).&ndash;&ndash;Difficult Road.&ndash;&ndash;Perils of the Way.&ndash;&ndash;Prospect
+of Sport.&ndash;&ndash;The First Boar.&ndash;&ndash;The Chasseurs d&rsquo;Afrique.&ndash;&ndash;Mine
+Hostess of the &ldquo;Scorpion.&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;Teniet.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In the hope of obtaining some reliable information as
+to hunting prospects, I had in the Caid&rsquo;s lieutenant a
+fine-looking fellow, rejoicing in the famous name of
+Abd-el-Kader, though he was no relation to the
+renowned chief. He gave a long description of the
+capture of a boar, that had been wounded by some
+Arabs; how he caught the brute by the hoofs, gagged
+it, and brought it home alive. Mr. &ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, he also informed
+us, had been surprised, about a month before,
+by a lion, as he was returning at dusk from Milianah.
+There were many lions in the vicinity, he added; and
+promised that his friend the Caid should treat us to a
+lion-hunt on our return, if we came back this way.</p>
+<p>Then we started, Abd-el-Kader accompanying us to
+show us a short way over the mountains to the caravanserai
+of Oued-el-Massin, where we were to pass the
+night, and expected to find our luggage. We were
+prepared to find the river very high, and our anticipations
+were not deceived. Abd-el-Kader admonished
+me to wait on the bank while he went in to try if there
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_31' name='page_31'></a>31</span>
+was any getting through. He returned and asked if
+my horse was good, and if I was willing to follow him.
+On receiving my affirmative answer, he told me to fix
+my eyes on the opposite shore, and, above all things,
+to abstain from looking at the water, which was tearing
+along at a tremendous rate; if I neglected his instructions,
+I should infallibly be carried away and drowned.
+I started, and, by dint of spurring, managed to get
+across, though my horse plunged up to his shoulder,
+and at one moment I thought I was a &ldquo;gone coon.&rdquo;
+Abd-el-Kader, the undaunted, then went back once
+more for the second horse, which he dragged across in
+due time by the bridle. Then he pointed out to us
+the road over the mountain to Oued-el-Massin; nor
+did he think it derogatory to his dignity to accept a
+reward for the trouble he had taken on our behalf.</p>
+<p>In spite of the valiant lieutenant&rsquo;s directions, the
+road was a very difficult one to find. After wandering
+about in the forest through a number of out-of-the-way
+paths, we managed at last to stumble on an Arab house
+or two, where the promise of a supply of powder prevailed
+with an Arab, and he piloted us down to the
+caravanserai, where we arrived at about six <span class='smcaplc'>P.M.</span>, wet
+to the skin, and weary with a most fatiguing day&rsquo;s
+march. We found our luggage had preceded us by
+about half an hour; so we had a change of clothes, and
+sat down gleefully to a capital dinner in very comfortable
+quarters. These caravanserais are a famous institution.
+They are built by the French Government for
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_32' name='page_32'></a>32</span>
+the convenience of travellers, and are very well
+organised. Each one is under the superintendence of
+a Frenchman, and has one part devoted to Europeans
+and another to Arabs. We had an excellent sitting-room
+and bed-room to ourselves, and, as may be supposed,
+were exceedingly comfortable.</p>
+<p>Wednesday, the 14th of March, was ushered in by
+a pouring rain; and we received the agreeable intelligence
+that the river between this and our next station
+was perfectly impassable; so we made up our minds to
+stay where we were. There was some consolation in
+the thought that Joseph, the exceedingly keen horse-dealer
+at Medea, will not be entitled to charge extra
+for the delay to his mules, he having bound himself,
+by solemn covenant, to deliver the baggage safely at
+Teniet for a certain stipulated sum.</p>
+<p>After breakfast I walked into the forest which surrounds
+the caravanserai on all sides, and shot two or
+three brace of red-legged partridges and a woodcock.
+I saw the traces of several wild boars; they were evidently
+quite recent; also a wretched porcupine the
+Arabs had killed.</p>
+<p>In the course of the day the Arabs brought in
+a boar which they had killed in the morning. They
+threw the entrails outside the house, and, during the
+night, quite an army of jackals came down to devour
+them. It was so dark that we could not get a shot at
+these African scavengers, though I sallied out once
+or twice after them.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_33' name='page_33'></a>33</span></div>
+<p>It rained all night, so that going on was out of the
+question, from the swollen state of the river; so I
+walked off before breakfast, with Angelo, to an Arab
+village, about a mile and a half distant, to inquire
+about boars. The promise of some powder brought
+out the inhabitants; and, after a little banter and
+chaffing, they agreed to meet me after breakfast, and
+to show me one of those animals. So I returned to
+the caravanserai to breakfast, and then, with my
+friend, rode back to the Arab huts. We left our
+horses at the village, and proceeded to climb a horribly
+steep hill in company with some of the natives, to
+whom I had promised tobacco-money, on condition of
+being brought face to face with a boar. After some
+tremendously steep climbing, we came upon a number
+of recent tracks, one of which B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; followed with his
+Arab, while I remained in another gorge. Presently
+I heard a shot fired, about a mile off; and, on returning
+to where the horses were tethered, I found that
+B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and his Arab had succeeded in discovering a
+boar. The Arab had fired at the brute at <a name='TC_3'></a><ins class="trchange" title="Was 'twent'">twenty</ins>
+paces, but missed his aim. It was now past five
+o&rsquo;clock, so we returned to the caravanserai to dinner.
+Some Chasseurs d&rsquo;Afrique had arrived in the interim.
+Their captain joined us in our room, and promised us
+an escort for the morrow. He was from Boulogne-sur-Mer,
+and spoke English pretty well. He told us
+we should have to start at six in the morning to cross
+the river.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_34' name='page_34'></a>34</span></div>
+<p>Accordingly, next morning the Frenchman set
+out at six o&rsquo;clock with his troops and traps, leaving a
+dragoon behind as an escort for us, but with the
+important qualification that the man might only stay
+one hour behind the rest, as he must be present on
+the arrival of the troop at Teniet. &ldquo;<i>Et maintenant</i>,&rdquo;
+quoth this bold warrior, &ldquo;<i>je vais me servir d&rsquo;un peu de
+votre tabac, s&rsquo;il vous plait, car je vois que votre blague
+est bien garni;</i>&rdquo; and, filling his pipe, he vanished,
+with a polite &ldquo;<i>Au revoir, messieurs</i>!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Feeling too tired to rise at seven for the sake of
+escort, especially as we had not a very long journey
+before us, I remained comfortably for breakfast, and
+B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; started alone. After a good meal, I set out
+with Angelo, and we forced our way through a densely-wooded
+country, till we came upon the obstacle which
+had lost us two days&ndash;&ndash;the river Klebah. This stream
+we managed with some difficulty to cross; a Frenchman,
+who emerged from the auberge on the other
+side, assisting us, by his advice, as to the best spot to
+choose for our passage. B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and the trooper had
+just finished breakfast in the auberge, and departed.
+The landlady of the &ldquo;Scorpion,&rdquo; a very chatty and
+amusing personage, insisted upon it that I was a German.
+She favoured me with a sporting anecdote,
+setting forth how she had killed three rabbits during
+an expedition to pick some rose laurier on the hills.
+As the bunnies popped their noses out of their holes,
+she had managed to pop them off with the branches.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_35' name='page_35'></a>35</span>
+As this was the only house to be met with on that
+day&rsquo;s journey, I halted there for half an hour. Mine
+hostess related how an &ldquo;English milord&rdquo; had stayed
+there for six months with his wife, in a tent, without
+even a servant&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;<i>Qu&rsquo;ils sont dr&ocirc;les ces Anglais!</i>&rdquo;
+was the landlady&rsquo;s final comment; and it was not for
+me to contradict the oft-repeated sentiment.</p>
+<p>Through a mountainous and most barren country,
+amid a pelting snow-storm, we wended onwards to
+Teniet. In my way from El Massin to the &ldquo;Scorpion,&rdquo;
+I might almost have knocked over several partridges
+with my whip, so close did they come; but here there
+were none to be seen, nor was there any cover that
+might shelter them. At a miserable auberge called
+&ldquo;<i>les C&egrave;dres</i>,&rdquo; I found B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;.</p>
+<p>The fort at Teniet is a fine edifice, in a commanding
+position. I went up and left my letter of introduction
+for Captain Camatte, who gave us very small
+hope of sport. He did not seem very keen on the
+subject, and advised us to try some other place, offering
+to give us recommendations, &amp;c. I returned to a
+most miserable room, where we could hardly sit, so
+much were we annoyed by the smoke from the fire;
+we could scarcely decide which was hardest to bear,
+the smoke within, or the cold without. With a hearty
+laugh at the absurdity of coming to such a place as
+Teniet in search of game, and with a determination
+to set out on our return the next day, we betook
+ourselves to an early bed.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_36' name='page_36'></a>36</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_VI_FURTHER_PROGRESSRELIGIOUS_CEREMONIES' id='CHAPTER_VI_FURTHER_PROGRESSRELIGIOUS_CEREMONIES'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+<h3>FURTHER PROGRESS.&ndash;&ndash;RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Cold Weather.&ndash;&ndash;Milianah.&ndash;&ndash;Vezoul.&ndash;&ndash;The Aubergiste.&ndash;&ndash;El Afroun.&ndash;&ndash;The
+Rhamazan.&ndash;&ndash;Dancing Dervishes.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>In order to avoid the trouble of carrying our ammunition
+back with us, we sold the greater portion of it.
+The snow lay four or five inches deep in the road; we
+sent to the commandant to procure us mules and
+other necessaries, and set out, with a snow-storm
+beating down upon us, and the cold as sharp as it well
+could be. At the &ldquo;Scorpion&rdquo; we refreshed ourselves
+with coffee, and then re-crossed the river, which was
+scarcely fordable; we got to El Massin about six
+o&rsquo;clock; the brigadier told us he had shot a hyena.
+Some capital wild boar they gave us for dinner, seemed
+to be an earnest of our return to sporting latitudes.
+At half-past seven next morning, we emerged from the
+caravanserai. The weather seemed at last, after a
+long season of inclemency, to have set in for heat.
+&ldquo;<i>Le temps s&rsquo;est remis a neuf</i>,&rdquo; observed Mr. Ball; and
+it had changed with a vengeance, so far as the temperature
+was concerned. Terribly hot we found it,
+marching across the Milianah plain. We crossed the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_37' name='page_37'></a>37</span>
+Djelish in a bac, or flying bridge, and reached
+Afreville about ten o&rsquo;clock. Leaving B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and
+Angelo to proceed to Medea, I went on to Milianah,
+where I arrived at about twelve o&rsquo;clock. While
+waiting there for my baggage, I noticed some Arab
+boys playing at a game closely resembling hockey.
+Milianah is a very strong fort, with a splendid view
+over the Atlas mountains and the plain of the Djelish.
+I stopped at the Cat or Du-chat stables, appropriately
+kept by Mr. Duchat-<i>el</i>, and found that it was too late
+to stop at any place on the road to Blidah.</p>
+<p>I took a walk through the town, and on the Grande
+Place found a number of soldiers singing a chorus
+very creditably, without instrumental accompaniment.
+They perform in this manner every Sunday. The
+view over the plain of the Djelish is one of the most
+splendid I ever beheld, not excepting that from the
+Alhambra itself. I was told I could easily get to
+Blidah in a day on horseback, from Milianah, so I
+determined to stay at the H&ocirc;tel d&rsquo;Iffly, a very comfortable
+place. At dinner I met Mostyn and Captain
+Ross, just arrived from Algiers, per diligence.
+Captain R&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, who is in the Bengal Artillery, told me
+he thought the French used the natives much better
+than we do those of India. I differ from him. One
+of the French officers with whom I dined told me the
+only way to manage the &ldquo;Indig&egrave;nes&rdquo; was by that
+vigorous measure, &ldquo;<i>un coup de fouet</i>,&rdquo; and, from what
+I saw, I believe it to be the case.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_38' name='page_38'></a>38</span></div>
+<p>On Monday, the 19th, I left Milianah at about half-past
+seven, and rode through splendid Pyreneean
+scenery to Vezoul, a French village. The aubergiste
+took me for a German, and announced that he had
+two German workmen staying with him, who spoke
+with the same accent I used. When I repudiated
+my Teutonic nationality, he met me with the remark:
+&ldquo;<i>Enfin, c&rsquo;est le m&ecirc;me sang rouge qui coule dans
+nos veines, que nous soyons Anglais, Fran&ccedil;ais, ou
+Allemands;</i>&rdquo; to which undeniable proposition I rejoined,
+&ldquo;<i>Oui, c&rsquo;est vrai nous sommes tous Europ&eacute;ens
+ici.</i>&rdquo; I fed my horse here, and came on, over the
+mountains, under a very hot sun, to Bourkikah, where
+I entered the Medidja plain. On entering this plain,
+the traveller enjoys a magnificent view right onward to
+sea, gleaming miles away in the sunny haze. At
+Bourkikah, my horse was so tired, that I was obliged
+to take off the saddle-bags, and leave them at the
+&ldquo;Bureau des Diligences,&rdquo; to be forwarded. Some
+French officers at the hotel assured me I should not be
+able to get to Blidah, and recommended me strongly
+to stay at El Afroun, &ldquo;<i>chez les Petits Fr&egrave;res</i>,&rdquo; if I
+found my horse too tired to proceed. I rode determinedly
+on through the plain, but could scarcely
+get my horse to move by dint of whip or spur. By
+the time I had crossed the river into El Afroun, I found
+my horse so entirely knocked up, that it was clearly
+impossible to proceed. So, of necessity, I turned into
+the auberge, and had a very good dinner, enlivened
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_39' name='page_39'></a>39</span>
+by a serenade from a legion of frogs, croaking dolefully
+in the neighbouring marshes.</p>
+<p>Getting away from El Afroun by six o&rsquo;clock next
+morning, I found myself at Blidah by half-past seven.
+The cavalry horses were just turning out on the plains,
+and looked very handsome as I rode into the town.
+At Blidah, where I breakfasted, the sun was hot
+enough to burn my face in a most unequivocal manner,
+and to necessitate the purchase of a new hat. On
+arriving at Bouffanieh, I got off my horse, which by
+this time had fairly fallen lame, and took the diligence
+into Algiers. At Bouffanieh I was much amused at
+the proceedings of a group of Arabs, who were squatting
+on the ground, selling oranges. Their first customer
+was a drunken Frenchman, who came staggering
+up, and began chaffing the vendors; but they evidently
+got the better of him in no time, and he retired
+in confusion. Next came a grave, steady-looking
+Spaniard, who, after much bargaining, marched off
+with <i>one</i> orange. He was followed by a little girl,
+who very quickly got hold of three. I thought Algiers
+improved on a second view.</p>
+<p>Next day I went for a ride to the Maison Carr&eacute;e,
+with De Warne and Captain Thouars, of the <i>Euphrates</i>.
+We had a most magnificent view over the plain of the
+Metidja. This was the first night of the Rhamazan.
+I visited the mosques, which have been thrown open
+to Europeans since the French occupation. Thence I
+proceeded to view a strange religious or fanatic ceremony
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_40' name='page_40'></a>40</span>
+of the Mussulmans; some Swedish naval officers
+were with us. The whole affair reminded me of a
+meeting of Jumpers, or Ranters. There are no
+priests to take part in it. The men stand round in
+a circle, reciting prayers to Allah, and calling on
+Mahomet, while they work their bodies violently
+backwards and forwards, till they lash themselves into
+a state of perfect frenzy. One fanatic more zealous
+than the rest then rushes forward, cuts himself with a
+knife, and stands on the sharp edge of the weapon,
+which is held by another. The chaunt or psalm is
+then renewed, and another devotee comes forward
+howling; snatches a portion of prickly pear, and actually
+devours it ravenously. Then another exceedingly
+zealous performer&ndash;&ndash;whose face, by the way,
+reminded me strangely of the portraits of Disraeli in
+<i>Punch</i>&ndash;&ndash;seized some red-hot coals, and held them in
+his mouth for a time, afterwards proceeding to swallow
+lighted pipes, and execute other salamandrine feats.
+After witnessing this spectacle of degradation for some
+time, we retired, somewhat disgusted at the buffooneries
+perpetrated in this country, as elsewhere, in the name
+of religion.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_41' name='page_41'></a>41</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_VII_BONA_AND_ITS_VICINITY' id='CHAPTER_VII_BONA_AND_ITS_VICINITY'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2>
+<h3>BONA AND ITS VICINITY.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Passage to Bona.&ndash;&ndash;State of Affairs on Board.&ndash;&ndash;Bona.&ndash;&ndash;The Lake
+Metitza.&ndash;&ndash;Ain Mokra.&ndash;&ndash;Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>We bade adieu to B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, who had given us letters of
+recommendation to the Admiral, for a first-class cabin
+to Bona&ndash;&ndash;a thing difficult to achieve on board the
+steamers here, as civilians are only allowed second-class
+accommodation, the state cabin being reserved
+for the use of naval and military officers, as the
+steamers on this line rank as men of war. The boat
+was much crowded with soldiers, sailors, and Arabs,
+and we had to share a most miserable berth with
+eight other occupants. We had arrived too late to
+procure cabin places, and were obliged to dine in an
+unsavoury den, reeking with pestilential odours. Most
+of the Frenchmen grumbled loudly at the miserable
+accommodation afforded in return for their money.
+Steaming along past a fine coast, we reached Dellis about
+eight o&rsquo;clock. I got Angelo to bring me my sheepskin
+and cloak, and preferred sleeping on deck to passing the
+night in a locality which, for the horrors it contained,
+might have figured as a scene in Dante&rsquo;s &ldquo;Inferno.&rdquo;</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_42' name='page_42'></a>42</span></div>
+<p>The gentle music of the sailors, swabbing the
+deck, awoke me next morning. I found we were off
+Bougie, a most beautifully-situated place, entirely
+surrounded by snow-covered mountains. Here are
+distinctly to be seen the ruins of the old wall supposed
+to have been built by the Vandals. A rather tedious
+day on board, but the occupation of watching the
+coast, which is very fine, varied the monotony of the
+voyage. We passed Djigelli at about twelve, and
+Philippeville at nine in the evening, when I retired
+to rest, and, the Fates be thanked, it was in a fresh
+cabin.</p>
+<p>There was a Jewess on board, a rather pretty personage,
+who slept in the same cabin with six men,
+most of them French officers, with a coolness that
+astonished me. Her husband was in the berth opposite
+her; she did not appear to feel the discomforts of her
+position, but chatted away gaily in Arabic and French
+throughout the whole passage. I don&rsquo;t think she
+quitted her berth once.</p>
+<p>At half-past six on Saturday, the 25th of March,
+came Angelo to announce to me that we were off
+Bona. This is a very strongly fortified place. We
+were rowed ashore by Maltese boatmen, and, amid a
+great crowd and bustle on the quay, landed, and went
+to the H&ocirc;tel de France. The proprietors were very
+civil, and assigned us a room at the top of the house,
+looking out on the place. We sallied forth in quest
+of horses to take us to the market-place. An Arab,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_43' name='page_43'></a>43</span>
+who spoke some very broken and dilapidated Italian,
+took us round the market and through the streets,
+shouting &ldquo;Reel Ain Mokra!&rdquo; Several Arabs came up
+and offered us their horses, but the steeds had such
+a forlorn look, that we declined the accommodation,
+and settled to start by carriage next morning.</p>
+<p>Accordingly, on Monday, the 26th of March, we
+set out at five o&rsquo;clock, on a most wretched morning.
+The vehicle was the most miserable locomotive contrivance
+I ever saw. Drawn by two horses, it pounded
+and churned along a most detestable road. We were
+obliged to get out several times, and in one place we
+stuck in the mud for twenty minutes. It was only
+by dint of putting our united shoulders to the wheel,
+that we succeeded in extricating our unhappy chariot
+from its stationary position. At length our eyes were
+gladdened by the sight of the defile which opens on
+the lake Metitza, where Count Z&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&rsquo;s property is
+situated. Though of Polish origin, the Count is an
+Englishman, and has, I believe, been an officer.
+Right gladly we alighted from the carriage, and, loading
+our guns, prevailed on some Italian fishermen to
+take us out in a boat for a pop at the wild ducks which
+we saw flying about by hundreds, bagged a few, and
+then returned to find that the Count&rsquo;s keeper had
+come down, under the impression that we were
+poachers, with a firm determination to take us into
+custody there and then. The production of our letter
+of recommendation brought him back to civility, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_44' name='page_44'></a>44</span>
+produced an offer to take us out shooting; Count
+Z&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; himself was absent in London.</p>
+<p>There is an establishment here for the manufacture
+of oil from putrid fish, which agreeable occupation
+announced itself in the shape of such an overpowering
+odour, that I seized a glass of cognac, and fled precipitately,
+taking my way towards the caravanserai of
+Ain Mokra. Poor old Nero, whom I had brought
+with me, got into a scrape here, and narrowly escaped
+being drowned. It appears that the putrid entrails of
+the fish are thrown into a kind of pond, which is thus
+filled with a slimy mixture resembling clay, and
+exhaling a most horrible odour when exposed to the
+sun&rsquo;s rays. Nero contrived, in some way or other, to
+slip into this delectable compound, and there he would
+have remained, had I not laid hold of him and pulled
+him out by main force. I at once had him washed
+and scrubbed, and even emptied some scent on him,
+but in vain; for days afterwards, poor Nero carried
+about with him a reminiscence of his odoriferous adventure,
+which rendered his absence most desirable to
+the comfort and well-being of his friends. I sallied
+forth about four miles from Ain Mokra, and lay in
+ambush for boars, but none appeared, and only shot
+some jackals&ndash;&ndash;a very poor substitute for the nobler
+game I had missed.</p>
+<div style='width:500px; margin:auto;'>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_2' id='linki_2'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/i049.jpg' alt='' title='' width='500' height='317' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+R. Pheney, lith.<span class='super' style='visibility:hidden;'>&nbsp;</span><span style='display:inline-block; float:right; width:auto;'>M. &amp; N. Hanhart, Imp<span class='super'>t</span>.</span></p><p class='caption' style='clear:both;'>SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>At five, next morning, I went out to shoot on the
+lake. I got Angelo to row a boat slowly among the
+reeds, and soon saw hundreds of wild ducks, teals,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_45' name='page_45'></a>45</span>
+and large white birds of whose name I am ignorant;
+they looked to me like flamingoes. I could only
+succeed in bagging a few, as they were exceedingly
+shy, and made off as soon as the boat approached;
+moreover, the rushes were not thick enough to afford
+us an effectual concealment. As the miasma from the
+lake was sufficiently powerful to threaten fever, we
+returned to the caravanserai, where we breakfasted,
+and, after shooting a few quails, returned in our
+carriage, at one o&rsquo;clock, to Bona. My driver, who sat
+beside me, was a very loquacious old soldier, who had
+served in the campaigns against the Arabs under
+Baraguay d&rsquo;Hilliers and Youssouf, and been present
+at the capture of Milianah and Medeah. The Arabs,
+he said, never met the French fairly <i>en bataille rang&eacute;e</i>,
+but always fired from ambush at the rear-guard, and in
+this way killed a great number of men. He described
+the conduct of the Arabs to their prisoners as very
+merciless. They never gave quarter, and frequently
+mutilated their captives; the women, in this particular,
+being more cruel than the men. I was informed,
+on my return, that the party who came out last year
+to shoot, had only killed four lions in as many months,
+though they had &ldquo;all appliances and means to boot,&rdquo;
+and always kept several Arabs in their pay.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_46' name='page_46'></a>46</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_VIII_ON_TO_TUNIS' id='CHAPTER_VIII_ON_TO_TUNIS'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+<h3>ON TO TUNIS.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Algeria in general.&ndash;&ndash;The Arabs and their Conquerors.&ndash;&ndash;Antagonism
+between the Two Races.&ndash;&ndash;Social Condition of the Arabs.&ndash;&ndash;The
+Oasis steamer.&ndash;&ndash;Arrival at Tunis.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the 28th of March I left Bona in the steamer
+<i>Oasis</i>. The engine broke down shortly after leaving
+the port, and, as the sails were absolutely useless, we
+had the pleasant consciousness of drifting towards a
+lee shore; but in a short time the damage was luckily
+repaired, and we proceeded on our voyage.</p>
+<p>The accounts I had heard of Algeria had not prepared
+me to find such a flourishing state of affairs as I
+really found to exist in the community. The colony
+possesses fine harbours, a magnificent soil, and a
+glorious climate; numerous towns, with good hotels,
+are springing up in the interior. It is true that many
+of the immigrants are not French, but the majority
+are of that nation; and all the inhabitants, after a few
+years, adopt the French manners and language. The
+non-Gallic population are chiefly Spaniards, Italians,
+Maltese, and Germans. I met only one party of
+English at Bona, where a community of eighteen souls
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_47' name='page_47'></a>47</span>
+have been brought over by a Mr. Vincent; they
+appear to thrive very well. I was told that Count Z&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;
+intended establishing an English village near Bona.</p>
+<p>From the general prosperity, I, of course, except
+the Moors and Arabs, who will never, I believe, adopt
+European civilisation; they seem to recoil from before
+it, like the wild beasts of their native deserts.</p>
+<p>The French people certainly pointed out to me in
+the towns one or two <i>Europeanised</i> Arabs, and laughed
+at the idea of their ever becoming &ldquo;<i>Fran&ccedil;ais</i>.&rdquo; From
+what I saw, the natives merely adopted the vices without
+the good qualities of the dominant race. If to be
+civilised consists in sitting in the <i>caf&eacute;s</i>, drinking
+absinthe, playing cards, and speaking bad French, I
+certainly saw one or two most unquestionable specimens
+of the Arab adaptability to Gallic impressions;
+but, with the exception of these brilliant results, I
+never saw the least token of intercourse between the
+Moors and their conquerors; indeed, each nation may
+be said entirely to ignore the existence of the other.
+The peculiarity of Mussulman habits, with regard to
+women, entirely precludes all prospect of a future
+mixture of the two races&ndash;&ndash;such an amalgamation, for
+instance, as occurred in our own country between the
+Norman-French conquerors and the conquered Saxons.
+So well are the French aware of this impossibility, that
+I have seen the question of the expediency of utterly
+expelling the Mussulmans from Algeria gravely discussed
+in the French journals.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_48' name='page_48'></a>48</span></div>
+<p>Another method proposed was, that the young
+Arabs who had attained the military age of from
+eighteen to twenty-two years, should be transferred to
+France, there to pass their period of service as infantry
+soldiers only, that opportunities might be found, during
+their &ldquo;soldiering years,&rdquo; for instructing them in agriculture,
+and the rudiments of civilised education.
+This appears to me a sufficiently feasible plan; but I
+suspect that the Arab converts to civilisation would,
+on their return to their native land, quickly relapse
+into their old idle, roving habits, their primitive mode of
+life, and their inborn hatred of the infidel, whom they
+now regard as an instrument sent by Providence to
+inflict vengeance on the true believer for his apathy,
+and culpable neglect of his religious duties, including
+the propagation of his faith by fire and sword. Still,
+they believe the time to be approaching when every
+true son of the prophet shall &ldquo;hae his ain&rdquo; again;
+and it is past the power of mortal man to shake a
+Mahometan&rsquo;s trust and reliance on Destiny.</p>
+<p>For the rest, the French behave with the greatest
+toleration towards all members of the Moorish faith,
+who are allowed to perform every rite of their religion,
+and polygamy even is permitted to prevail among the
+Mussulman population. At Bona, a very handsome
+mosque is being erected on the Grand Place by the
+Government. Tolerant themselves, the French refuse,
+with perfect justice, to suffer any display of bigotry or
+fanaticism on the part of the Mahometans towards the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_49' name='page_49'></a>49</span>
+Christian community; the consequence is, that the
+mosques and other resorts of Mahometans are all
+thrown open to European visitors.</p>
+<p>My dog Nero was a most decided favourite on
+board the French steamer, <i>Oasis</i>. Everybody was
+caressing and patting him, from the captain to the
+stewardess, rather a nice young female, from Germany,
+who took him under her especial protection, and looked
+after his creature-comforts in a way that must have
+aroused the most lively gratitude in the canine bosom
+of the said Nero. Poor old dog! he seemed quite
+bewildered at the attention he received, not only here,
+but also on board the French man-of-war, the <i>Tartar</i>,
+where the French soldiers and sailors were crowding
+around him all day long, and overwhelming him with
+favours, in the shape of bits of meat, when they took
+their meals. A number of Arabs were sleeping about
+the deck. These children of the desert used to excite
+Nero&rsquo;s especial wonder. Whenever he was let loose,
+he was sure to be sniffing about among the prostrate
+figures, examining their faces and <i>bournouses</i>, and
+often waking them up with a start, to the intense
+delight of the French tars.</p>
+<p>On our arrival off La Goulette, the only anchorage
+for ships, situated about eight miles from Tunis, by
+sea, and nine miles by land, we were greeted by a
+scene of the most tremendous confusion. All the
+feluccas were rowed by Arabs, and their shouting,
+swearing, and gesticulation exceeded all my former
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_50' name='page_50'></a>50</span>
+experiences of the kind, Stamboul not excepted. A
+little patience, and a good deal of backsheesh, enabled
+us to pass our baggage through the Douane; and we
+sent it on by boat to Tunis, whither we proceeded by
+land in a carriage, and a drizzling rain. Once on the
+way we stopped, at what the inhabitants term the
+&ldquo;Carthaginian cistern,&rdquo; to take in some exceedingly
+dirty water, from a fountain of old-fashioned appearance.
+The carriage windows were closed on account
+of the rain&ndash;&ndash;an arrangement which interfered a good
+deal with my view of the surrounding country.
+Twice only, before we arrived at Tunis, my companion,
+a Russian, opened the window&ndash;&ndash;to spit! On
+the first of these occasions, I got a glimpse of a large
+heap of immense stones, which were pointed out to
+me as the ruins of Carthage, and a grove of olives,
+looking dismal exceedingly in the drizzling rain. On
+the second occasion, I saw the lakes, and a solitary
+Tunisian sentinel. This soldier was dressed much in
+the Turkish costume, and I should scarcely have
+known him from an Osmanli, but that he wore the
+brass plaque in the front of his scarlet fez, instead of
+at the top.</p>
+<p>As we approached Tunis, we became involved in
+an increasing crowd of loaded asses and mules; and,
+amid a great deal of screeching and shouting, we made
+our entry into the city, and drove to the H&ocirc;tel de
+France, where we obtained such a complete view of an
+old wall, that it effectually prevented us from seeing
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_51' name='page_51'></a>51</span>
+anything else. The rooms, or rather holes, assigned to
+us, were so miserable, that we tried the solitary
+opposition shop the place can boast&ndash;&ndash;the H&ocirc;tel de
+Proven&ccedil;e&ndash;&ndash;but found that here we should fare rather
+worse than in the H&ocirc;tel de France. There was a
+third establishment&ndash;&ndash;a tavern, rejoicing in the magniloquent
+title of &ldquo;Hotel of the Britannic Isles&rdquo;&ndash;&ndash;but
+as this hostelry was entirely occupied by sailors and
+Maltese skippers, we declined to avail ourselves of the
+&ldquo;Britannic&rdquo; accommodation. There was a great crowd
+of rather miscellaneous company at the <i>table-d&rsquo;h&ocirc;te</i>.
+One French female, whom, without offence to gallantry,
+I may be permitted to describe as the ugliest woman
+I met in my travels, excited my especial horror. This
+charming person actually amused herself, and disgusted
+her neighbours, by indulging, <i>across the table</i>,
+in an amusement generally associated in men&rsquo;s minds
+with the chewing of tobacco! I discovered, however,
+that she was only a servant maid.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_52' name='page_52'></a>52</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_IX_MARSA' id='CHAPTER_IX_MARSA'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+<h3>MARSA.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Angelo&rsquo;s Horsemanship.&ndash;&ndash;The Bey&rsquo;s Palace at Marsa.&ndash;&ndash;The Arabs and
+their Love of Tobacco.&ndash;&ndash;The Friendly Moor at Camatte.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the first of April I rode to Marsa, a little town on
+the seashore. Angelo&rsquo;s horse seemed rather fresh,
+and my servant was evidently no Centaur. He came
+up to me in an olive wood, where I made a halt for
+about five minutes. He was holding on hard by the
+mane, his trousers were up to his knees, and his face
+was horribly pale. On my asking him why he loitered
+behind so, he owned, with a dismal sigh, that he was
+half afraid of the horse. &ldquo;Afraid of the horse, sir!&rdquo;
+was poor Angelo&rsquo;s lament: &ldquo;Very wicked horse, sir&ndash;&ndash;fell
+from a horse, sir&ndash;&ndash;at Scutari, sir&ndash;&ndash;broke three
+ribs, sir&ndash;&ndash;and in hospital five weeks, sir!&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I told him to be of good cheer, for the horse would
+soon be quiet after a good gallop; and, tying the
+horses to some olive trees, I bade Angelo wait for me
+by the side of a little hillock in the plain, where I
+could readily find him on my return, and went away
+into the forest with my gun. The ground was covered
+with long, thick, pointed grass, very wet with the dew.
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_53' name='page_53'></a>53</span>
+I saw some quails, and shot a few; then returned to
+where Angelo was waiting, and galloped on to Marsa.
+At this place, the Bey, and the principal inhabitants
+of Tunis, have summer residences, to which they resort
+for the sake of sea-bathing. On the way, I
+encountered a number of Arabs, mounted on mules.
+The foremost shouted out to me in Arabic, as I passed,
+asking me to stop and give him some tobacco. I
+understood the word &ldquo;tobacco,&rdquo; which seems to have
+nearly the same sound in all languages, and knowing
+this request to be often a &ldquo;dodge&rdquo; on the part of the
+Arabs, who want an opportunity to rob, if not to
+murder, the traveller, I pointed to Angelo, who was
+following, about fifty paces behind me, with my gun,
+and shouted out that <i>he</i> would find tobacco for them.
+They evidently understood my meaning; for they all
+set up a loud laugh, and my friend the tobacconist&ndash;&ndash;or
+rather the tobacco-less&ndash;&ndash;looked exceedingly &ldquo;sold.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>I found Marsa very prettily situated, opposite to
+the bay of Tunis, near the ruins of old Carthage. The
+Bey&rsquo;s palace is a handsome building. The English
+and French consulates are also well built. I proceeded
+to a small Italian <i>locanda</i>, to get breakfast; but the
+old lady, who seemed the presiding genius of the
+place, obstinately refused to let us have anything.
+&ldquo;<i>Io han niente</i>,&rdquo; was her unanswerable argument.
+But I rather ostentatiously pulled out my watch, whose
+golden blink somewhat softened the old lady&rsquo;s mood,
+and caused her to remember that she might have
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_54' name='page_54'></a>54</span>
+certain eggs, and some bread, and salad, though a
+moment before she had been protesting that she had
+not even such a thing as bread in the house. Her son,
+a handsome young Italian, returned at this juncture,
+and we soon had an excellent <i>d&eacute;je&ucirc;ner</i> of sausages,
+salad, spinach, omelette, and cheese, with very good wine
+and coffee. I went down to the seaside and bathed,
+first burying my watch and purse in the sand; for the
+Arabs have a weakness for occasionally coming down
+under such circumstances, and stealing one&rsquo;s clothes.</p>
+<p>Past a ruined temple, down an avenue into
+Camatte, where I got an Arab to show me the way to
+a house formerly occupied by an Englishman. Here,
+for a wonder, I met a Moor, who spoke very good
+French, and was very civil. He asked me how I liked
+Africa, and laughed cordially at my open avowal, that
+it was &ldquo;<i>un peu bizarre</i>.&rdquo; After gathering a few
+delicious oranges for me in the garden, he took me into
+the interior of the house. I found it a most charming
+residence, with a deliciously cool marble reservoir in
+the centre, full of gold and silver fish.</p>
+<p>I rode back by the margin of the lake, but saw
+only small game till I got to a large olive forest, where
+a jackal made his appearance. I gave chase, and,
+after a rattling gallop, lodged him among some cactus
+bushes, where I could get near enough to shoot him;
+and so back to Tunis.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_55' name='page_55'></a>55</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_X_ABOUT_BOARSHOOTING' id='CHAPTER_X_ABOUT_BOARSHOOTING'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+<h3>ABOUT BOAR-SHOOTING.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Sleeman.&ndash;&ndash;The Oued el Ahwena.&ndash;&ndash;Its Scenery and its Dangers.&ndash;&ndash;Beauty
+of the Landscape on its Banks.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>I started next day with the Umbra, who was
+remarkable for a long scimitar, and spurs nearly as
+long. Each time I put my horse to a gallop, he was
+under the impression that I wanted to ride a race
+with him, and went on at full speed, till I restrained
+his ardour. We arrived duly at Sleeman, where the
+Caid had everything prepared very comfortably for us.
+My friends B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and F&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; arrived later, in a carriage.
+We had a good Arab dinner, with the national
+kouskous, followed by a chibouk.</p>
+<p>There was a river about six miles off, where boars
+were rumoured to make their abode. I rose early
+next morning, and, proceeding to this stream, hid in
+the thicket on the banks, while the Arabs beat the
+bushes. After waiting a long time, I managed to
+&ldquo;pot&rdquo; a wild boar, which came rushing past me at full
+speed. After this, the Arabs refused to beat the
+bushes any more, declaring that the dogs were tired,
+though the real reason was that they wanted their own
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_56' name='page_56'></a>56</span>
+dinners, so I was obliged to give up the sport and
+return. The wild boar was dispatched as a present
+to the consul.</p>
+<div style='width:500px; margin:auto;'>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_3' id='linki_3'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/i068.jpg' alt='' title='' width='500' height='315' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+R. Pheney, lith.<span class='super' style='visibility:hidden;'>&nbsp;</span><span style='display:inline-block; float:right; width:auto;'>M. &amp; N. Hanhart, Imp<span class='super'>t</span>.</span></p><p class='caption' style='clear:both;'>HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA, IN TUNISIA.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>The river which we visited to-day is called the
+Oued el Ahwena. It runs through a rich valley,
+bordered on both sides by mountains which rise up
+gradually, and are covered to their very foot with
+trees of various descriptions. The plain itself is
+fragrant with myrtles, orange trees, and olives. The
+beauty of the scene amid which this river falls into
+the sea is beyond description. Here the water is
+hissing wildly among osiers and furze bushes; there
+it skips along like a young goat over the small pebbles;
+and yonder, again, it winds like a serpent among the
+sand hills on the sea-shore. The dark olive-trees on
+the bank seem to look seriously on, like a father
+watching the pranks of a favourite child. The large
+ash-trees shake and quiver, like old aunts, all in a
+tremble at the dangerous hops and vagaries of a lively
+niece; while the gay-plumaged birds of the air ring
+out their wild applause, and the flowers on the bankside
+murmur tenderly, &ldquo;Oh, take us with you, dear
+sister!&rdquo; But the joyous, sparkling river rushes on
+like a coquette, bounding and skipping towards its
+goal.</p>
+<p>Such is the river Ahwena in the glorious month
+of April: fair without, like many a gay flirt, she can
+yet inflict wounds incurable, if not death, upon those
+whom her wiles entrap. Woe to the traveller or
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_57' name='page_57'></a>57</span>
+hunter who, oppressed by thirst in this burning
+climate, ventures to taste the sparkling water that
+bubbles up like champagne, invitingly at his feet!
+Cholera and death would be the probable result. The
+waters are redolent of cholera, and the banks of fever.
+No man may pitch his tent in safety for a single night
+on the banks of this death-dealing water; not even
+the Bedouins, who avoid the locality as if it were
+plague-stricken, for fever is in the very air. Strange
+that so fair an exterior should veil so baneful a
+mystery. Those bright, sweet-smelling flowers conceal
+snakes and reptiles whose bite is almost instantaneously
+fatal, and the place might be appropriately termed
+the Valley of Death. Among yonder fair trees lurk
+the treacherous panther and the slinking hyena.</p>
+<p>Yet, in this world, amid present impressions of
+pleasure, we have little time to think of the danger
+veiled beneath the smiling outward shape. So, at
+least, it was with me, as I reclined on the carpet of
+soft grass, after slaying the boar, placidly discussing
+my breakfast, and enjoying the beauty of the scene
+around, with the azure-rippling sea about two miles
+off, the magnificent mountains around me, the sparkling
+river at my feet, and, across the bay in the far
+distance, the ruins of the once mighty city of Carthage,
+with the birds singing merrily overhead in the bright
+sunshine. There is exquisite pleasure in the sensation
+of the external world thus melting away, as it were,
+into a little world of our own, and when the green trees,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_58' name='page_58'></a>58</span>
+the azure sky, the perfumed plants, all take their places
+in an exquisite picture of Nature&rsquo;s own painting.
+Women, perhaps, most indulge this feeling; hence
+they often smile with an amiable incredulity when
+they hear the &ldquo;lords of the creation,&rdquo; proud of their
+scholastic lore, discussing and settling everything,
+priding themselves upon having divided all things so
+cleverly into <i>subjective</i> and <i>objective</i>, and boasting that
+they have furnished their wise heads with so many
+drawers (like a chemist&rsquo;s shop, forsooth), with reason
+located in one, good sense in another, understanding
+in a third, and so on to the end of the chapter.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_59' name='page_59'></a>59</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_XI_SPORTING_EXPERIENCES' id='CHAPTER_XI_SPORTING_EXPERIENCES'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+<h3>SPORTING EXPERIENCES.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>El Greesh.&ndash;&ndash;Shooting Hyenas.&ndash;&ndash;An Expedition with the Arabs.&ndash;&ndash;The
+Caid and his Family.&ndash;&ndash;Another Wild Boar.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The next day I rode on to a place called El Greesh,
+about twenty miles from Sleeman. I wanted to pitch
+my tent at the base of the purple mountain, outside
+the village, where I was sure we should have got a
+great deal of game, as the mountains were covered with
+thick underwood. A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, however, and the rest were
+opposed to it, so I yielded, and pitched my tent
+in the village itself, where I soon had the entire tribe
+around me, examining me and my arms, my gestures,
+and everything, as if I was an event. After a cup of
+coffee, I determined to start in search of game, and,
+with a little backsheesh, got an Arab to accompany us
+to one of the neighbouring defiles, where, after waiting
+about an hour and a half, I managed to bag a very
+fine hyena. He was just sneaking out of his hole,
+and was about 150 yards off. On my return, the
+natives manifested great joy, shook my hands, made a
+circle round me, tapped me on the back, &amp;c., to
+my chagrin. As I was tremendously fatigued, I
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_60' name='page_60'></a>60</span>
+retired to my sheepskin in my tent with great satisfaction.
+The natives all slept around our tents on the
+ground, and some of them kicked up a most infernal
+noise till about two in the morning, singing a sort of
+chorus. The following morning the whole tribe
+collected around our tents and watched <i>our toilette du
+matin</i> with the most intense eagerness.</p>
+<div style='width:500px; margin:auto;'>
+<div class='figtag'>
+<a name='linki_4' id='linki_4'></a>
+</div>
+<div class='figcenter'>
+<img src='images/i023.jpg' alt='' title='' width='500' height='311' /><br />
+<p class='caption'>
+R. Pheney, lith.<span class='super' style='visibility:hidden;'>&nbsp;</span><span style='display:inline-block; float:right; width:auto;'>M. &amp; N. Hanhart, Imp<span class='super'>t</span>.</span></p><p class='caption' style='clear:both;'>SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL GREESHE.<br />
+</p>
+</div>
+</div>
+<p>The greater part of them had brought their matchlocks,
+as the day was to be a grand field-day, and they
+were all in the highest spirits, laughing, and cracking
+jokes to an extraordinary amount. We started about
+seven <span class='smcaplc'>A.M.</span>, and I remained till eleven <span class='smcaplc'>A.M.</span>, till which
+time they had not succeeded in driving anything out
+of cover. Here I sprained my ankle in descending a
+broken gully, and was obliged to return to the tent.
+I came back about four <span class='smcaplc'>P.M.</span>, with only small game.
+After sun-down we went out a second time in ambush
+after hyena. A lion or panther came, a little after
+sunset, and frightened the horses so that they broke
+loose, and we returned to the tents about eleven <span class='smcaplc'>P.M.</span></p>
+<p>The next day we started early, in order to return
+to Sleeman. We stopped an hour on the
+banks of our old friend, the river Oued el Ahwenah,
+for luncheon, where I shot several quail and snipes,
+and a large bird, whose name I ignore, also a hare,
+the only one I saw in Tunisia. About four <span class='smcaplc'>P.M.</span>, I
+reached the Caid&rsquo;s house; a woman, for a wonder,
+opened the door. As the Caid was there, I looked
+anywhere but at her. The next day we went out all
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_61' name='page_61'></a>61</span>
+day, after boar, to the river, with an Italian and some
+Arabs. I stood up to my knees in the river for about
+an hour in the brush-wood, when one rushed by; I
+fired, and he rushed forward badly damaged. The
+rest fired, and he was found dead a few yards off.
+The Italian&rsquo;s steed broke loose, and he left us in
+search of it. I broke from my <i>corps de garde</i>. My
+horse lost a shoe, and then broke loose, and I had to
+follow him for more than a mile. I had a kind of
+dumbshow conversation with the Caid&rsquo;s son on my
+return, a very fine, handsome lad, about seventeen.
+I hear his sister is most beautiful, and I promised to
+send him a present, on getting to Tunis, and he is to
+write to me and tell me if he receives it. After dinner
+the Caid came and smoked two or three pipes, drank
+coffee, and wished us adieu in a most gracious
+manner.</p>
+<p>We had considerable difficulty in bringing home
+the boar, as our Arabs all deserted us on account of
+its being the Ramadhan; but Angelo and B&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;
+managed to carry it back between them. I returned
+to Tunis next day.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_62' name='page_62'></a>62</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_XII_TUNIS_AND_ITS_GOVERNMENT' id='CHAPTER_XII_TUNIS_AND_ITS_GOVERNMENT'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+<h3>TUNIS AND ITS GOVERNMENT.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Picturesque Situation of Tunis.&ndash;&ndash;The Horse Market.&ndash;&ndash;Effects of
+Race.&ndash;&ndash;The Bazaars.&ndash;&ndash;Mohamed Medea.&ndash;&ndash;The Bardo.&ndash;&ndash;The Bey
+of Tunis.&ndash;&ndash;His Mode of administering Justice.&ndash;&ndash;Prince Puckler
+Muskau&rsquo;s Account of his Interview.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>Tunis is situated on the borders of a lake, or rather
+inlet of the sea. It is surrounded by a crenelated wall,
+which resembles very much that of Constantinople.
+Like that city, too, Tunis, from the exterior, presents
+a very imposing aspect; but enter the city, and the
+illusion vanishes; there is the same dirt, the same
+narrow and filthy streets, as in the Turkish capital.
+The dogs alone are wanting to make the comparison
+perfect. An ancient historian has called this place
+<i>Tunis the white</i>; but, like other whited sepulchres, it
+is very foul within. The horses, the really thorough-bred
+ones, are the finest objects in Tunis. As in the
+canine and human, so in every other race, blood will
+tell. The Arab horse, though by no means so swift
+for a short distance as his English cousin, has a most
+marvellous power of endurance. He is also extremely
+sure footed, and scarcely ever comes down. I weigh
+over thirteen stone, yet have frequently ridden the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_63' name='page_63'></a>63</span>
+same horse forty English miles per diem, over country
+that would infallibly cut up your English two hundred
+guinea hunter. They also, so to speak, live on air.
+Their chief drawback is that they are, with few exceptions,
+stallions, and, consequently, when tethered or
+standing near each other, are very apt to fight most
+desperately, or else break loose from their tetherings,
+when a long and wearisome pursuit is the necessary
+result. It is very difficult to come across the best <i>pur
+sang</i> horses, as the Arabs are afraid of the Bey&rsquo;s taking
+a fancy to them, and taking them by force; and, consequently,
+they often purposely mutilate them, lest he
+should seize them to himself. There are also some
+very fine bazaars at Tunis, and the otto of roses there
+is especially excellent. Our Consul has a very fine,
+large house, and dispenses his hospitalities, &amp;c., very
+generously to his compatriots. His lady is also a
+most amiable person. Tunis is, I hear, celebrated for
+the manufacture of the red cap, usually termed &ldquo;fez,&rdquo;
+which is worn generally throughout Mussulman countries,
+and universally by the military. The Tunisian
+soldiers wear the plaque in front of the fez, in lieu of
+on the top, like the Turkish. As soon as I had
+selected my horse, a fine black thorough-bred Arab
+(whose price was four hundred francs only), I used to
+make excursions every day into the country, sometimes
+alone, sometimes attended, always armed, as the
+Francs of Tunis told me many stories of the dangers
+arising from going out in the country unarmed, among
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_64' name='page_64'></a>64</span>
+the Arabs. I think a great number of them were very
+much exaggerated. One of the places I was fond of
+riding to was Mohamed Medea, about twelve miles
+from Tunis, very prettily situated, where there was a
+very fine ruin of a Roman aqueduct, and eke a
+French restaurant, where a <i>d&eacute;je&ucirc;ner</i>, made more
+agreeable by a twelve miles&rsquo; ride, was served in quite
+Parisian style. The reason of there being a French
+restaurant is this:&ndash;&ndash;The present Bey, on his accession,
+determined to build a fresh palace at this place;
+and, being under a sort of douce compulsion, employs
+nothing but French architects and operatives, who
+make the hotel their head-quarters, it being about the
+only Christian house in the entire place. Quail
+abounded in this vicinity, and there were <i>pas mal de
+sangliers</i>. To escape from the <i>ennui</i> of the <i>table d&rsquo;h&ocirc;te
+d&eacute;je&ucirc;ner</i> at Tunis, occupied by French bagmen and
+milliners, and served in a stuffy hole of a back
+kitchen, I used frequently to make Angelo put my
+breakfast in my <i>sacoche</i> (saddle-bag), consisting of
+a piece of cold meat and some <i>vin du pays</i>, and
+then ride out, dismount, and breakfast <i>al fresco</i>, or
+rather <i>al bosco</i>; sometimes I am sorry to confess to
+breaking the eighth commandment, as I helped myself
+to my dessert of oranges, from the trees near or under
+which I sat. The Arabs, <i>malgr&eacute;</i> the ogre histories I had
+heard of murder and robbery, were always most civil,
+and would accept, in spite of the prophet, a glass of
+wine from my hands though our conversation was of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_65' name='page_65'></a>65</span>
+course of the most limited description, unless Angelo
+was present to interpret. It is true I always was
+armed.</p>
+<p>The Bardo is one of the lions of Tunis. It is
+the country residence of the Bey, and, besides the
+harem, contains a hall of justice and barracks.
+It is at Bardo that the Bey holds his court of
+justice, in which the cases are decided very quickly,
+and with great precision. The interior of the harem,
+according to a French traveller, who had visited it, is
+fitted up very gracefully. There is a magnificent <i>jet
+d&rsquo;eau</i> in the marble court of the interior. The
+gallery running round this court on the second storey
+is furnished with a very artistically elaborated railing,
+or grating, part of which is painted green, part gilt.
+Behind this railing the ladies of the harem get a sly
+peep at those who visit his highness. The vast saloon
+in which the Bey receives his visitors is hung with
+crimson velvet, embroidered with gold, and the
+ceiling is also gilt and painted over in brilliant
+colours. From the two sides of the wall are suspended
+different descriptions of arms, richly manufactured;
+on the right, they consist of swords and
+poniards; on the left, of various kinds of muskets
+and pistols. Gold, silver, and precious stones sparkle
+out from these arms. Under these weapons are ranged
+three rows of divans, covered with a thick sort of red
+silk. The centre of the apartment is furnished with
+magnificent Persian carpets. On the lowest of the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_66' name='page_66'></a>66</span>
+divans, the principal courtiers seat themselves, on
+solemn days of reception, in double file; while at the
+extremity, the Bey reclines on an ottoman placed
+crossways, and covered with white satin. In Europe,
+we might, with great advantage, take a wrinkle or
+two from this semi-barbarian prince as regards the
+administration of justice with expedition. The
+Bey of Tunis is, at one and the same time, the
+chief governor of the realm, the administrator of
+the public revenues, and the final judge of all grand
+cases. From his immediate authority depends the
+administration of the police, the imposition of taxes,
+the various diplomatic relations, and the superintendence
+of the army and navy.</p>
+<p>We Europeans can scarcely comprehend how one
+man can look after so many different details, or
+direct them with order and precision. But in this
+country, mark, oh! red-tapeists, everything relating
+to interior administration is reduced to the greatest
+simplicity, and from this simplicity, freed from the
+complicated system of European red-tapeism and
+bureaucracy, results, it is to be hoped, a strict economy
+in public expenses, and a rapid process in the
+courts of justice and other Government affairs. Where
+a European prince would require a hundred different
+<i>employ&eacute;s</i>, here five or six clerks suffice. Besides the
+celerity and economy resulting from such a system, a
+third no less important advantage is derived, viz., the
+facility with which the Bey is able to superintend the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_67' name='page_67'></a>67</span>
+conduct of the ministers, being so few in number, and
+immediately detect and punish those in whom any act
+of embezzlement or fraud has been detected; and
+punishment in this country immediately follows detection.
+Verily, there are advantages in autocratic as
+well as in constitutional dynasties!!</p>
+<p>In the administration of justice, too, the Bey is
+supreme judge, from whom there is no appeal. The
+celerity with which causes are tried and judged, is, I
+am told, perfectly astounding. The case merely consists
+in a simple exposition of the facts, and such is
+the wonderful power of discernment of the merits of
+the case which the Bey thinks he has obtained from
+long habit, that it is said he rarely deliberates. The
+court is open to the public&ndash;&ndash;even to Christians! I
+did not go; but Prince Puckler Muskau has left an
+account of his presence there. After giving a description
+of the room, &amp;c., and the Bey&rsquo;s entry, the
+Prince proceeds:&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;The Bey was now presented with
+a magnificent pipe, which was at least ten feet long.
+After a few puffs, the audience commenced. The civil
+and criminal procedure is so summary, that a great
+majority of cases were decided in as many minutes as
+they would have taken years in Europe. The subject
+of the causes was frequently very trivial, yet the
+patience of the sovereign was by no means exhausted.
+I thought, in general, that the pleaders were satisfied
+with the Bey&rsquo;s decision. One sees, by this, that the
+Bey&rsquo;s place is no sinecure; and I am told that few
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_68' name='page_68'></a>68</span>
+monarchs in Christian countries have so much personally
+to do. The Bey sits every day in the court,
+from eight in summer, and from nine in winter, till
+mid-day; and illness, or absence from town, is his only
+excuse for non-attendance. His other governmental
+duties occupy pretty well the rest of his day.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Each country has an &ldquo;idea,&rdquo; I suppose, that its
+own Government is best, and perhaps it is as well it
+should be so. The man who travels much sees the
+defects and the advantages of each. Our Parliament
+would certainly not easily be acclimatised in Barbary,
+nor would a Bey exactly do to grace the British throne.
+What, for instance, would we think of such a proclamation
+as this in the <i>London Gazette</i>, on a king&rsquo;s accession?
+It was issued by Mustapha, the father of the
+present Bey, to the consuls of Christian powers:&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;Glory
+to princes of the religion of Messiah. To the
+chosen by the great of the nation of Jesus, our most
+honoured, most longed for, most magnificent, and
+most powerful friend, the King of &ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, we make
+known, friendly, the following: On Wednesday, 23rd
+of the month of Moharrem the sacred, of the present
+year 1251, at the moment when the sun illumined the
+horizon, the hour marked by destiny having struck
+for my most honoured brother, Hassein Basha, he
+emigrated towards the mansion of eternity,&rdquo; &amp;c. &amp;c.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_69' name='page_69'></a>69</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_XIII_THE_RUINS_OF_CARTHAGE' id='CHAPTER_XIII_THE_RUINS_OF_CARTHAGE'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+<h3>THE RUINS OF CARTHAGE.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Reflections on Ancient Carthage.&ndash;&ndash;Hannibal and his Career.&ndash;&ndash;An
+Arab Domicile.&ndash;&ndash;Picturesque appearance of the Ruins.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>I went three times to the &ldquo;Ruins,&rdquo; and therefore
+should have been lucky. I was, however, the reverse,
+both as to seeing anything of the ruins, and also the
+particular object which brought me there. I think,
+myself, proverbs are very deceitful, and should, like
+dreams, be read by contrary; some are utterly unintelligible;
+as, for instance&ndash;&ndash;will any one tell me
+what this one signifies?&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;Sweet words butter no
+parsnips.&rdquo; I thought parsnips (and, being fond of
+vegetables, I should like to know) were generally
+seasoned with pepper or vinegar. I am, perhaps, too
+stupid to comprehend it, and, like stupid people,
+abuse what I don&rsquo;t understand. Therefore, don&rsquo;t let
+any one expect a long description of how this part is
+Ph&oelig;nician, and is supposed to be where the Carthaginian
+parliament was held; or their dandies and
+&ldquo;fast&rdquo; of both sexes met to polka of a night, or
+drink Punic punch; or a &ldquo;<i>cabinet de lecture</i>,&rdquo; or
+club, where the <i>Times</i> or the <i>Globe</i> gave the latest
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_70' name='page_70'></a>70</span>
+telegram from Italy; as how Hannibal obtained a
+glorious victory over the Roman troops at Thrasymene,
+or that the commissariat was bad; then, perhaps,
+old grumblers decried the dissipation at Cann&aelig;,
+and the expense of the war; and ancient merchants
+on &rsquo;Change complained of the rising importance of
+the Roman navy, whose ships had just captured the
+large Ph&oelig;nician brigantine <i>Argo</i>, from Sidon, laden
+with a valuable freight, otto of roses, and bound for
+Carthage&ndash;&ndash;<i>apropos</i> of which I will remark, there is a
+military Rome and a mercantile Carthage in modern
+times. Take care we be not the Carthage; let us
+remember that it was from a stranded Punic vessel
+the Romans learnt the maritime art, in which, at last,
+they excelled their enemies. Hannibal appears to me
+always the greatest man of any age, ancient or
+modern&ndash;&ndash;Napoleon not excepted&ndash;&ndash;and perhaps the
+most unfortunate. His character comes to us, as his
+exploits, from foreign and hostile sources; for I believe
+there exist no Ph&oelig;nician records; so that there
+remains a great deal of discount to take off in the
+way of disparagement, depreciation, &amp;c. &amp;c. It is as
+if the future Australian, standing on the ruins of a city
+mightier than Carthage, could obtain no account of
+Napoleon, but through partial and depreciatory fragments
+from the pages of Sir Walter Scott&rsquo;s life of that
+extraordinary meteor. Napoleon, it is true, crossed
+the Alps, but Hannibal traversed the Alps and
+Pyrenees too, and I fancy the last are the more impassable
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_71' name='page_71'></a>71</span>
+of the two. It is true I have not copied
+Albert Smith, or our other heroic youths, but I have
+climbed the Malodetta, which well becomes its appellation.
+Then, Napoleon had a friendly population
+at any rate behind him, to bring supplies, &amp;c.
+Hannibal was everywhere surrounded by hostile tribes,
+besides having had the disadvantage of a march through
+enemies&rsquo; countries of several hundred, if not thousand
+miles. I hope the living in Spain, for his sake, did
+not then consist of <i>olla podrida</i>, with a variation of
+garlic and acid wine.</p>
+<p>Perhaps there existed in these days some machine,
+or some marvellous powder, by which real mountains
+might be removed (as spiritual ones by faith) at
+pleasure, and replaced in their original position;
+but as history makes no mention thereof, it is but fair
+to conclude not. No, the only machine used, the
+only mine, was the invincible and iron will of the
+Carthaginian hero. He, too, if I mistake not, lived
+under parliamentary <i>r&eacute;gime</i>, in the shape of a senate,
+a great hamper on military man&oelig;uvres, where all
+should be done quickly, secretly, and unanimously.
+Napoleon was his own master, with a devoted people.
+I wonder if parliamentary debates, in Punic days, were
+as long and insipid as in modern; that is, I have not
+been to them, but judge by what one reads in that
+modern tyrant, the <i>Times</i>. Oh, mighty <i>Times</i>! how
+we abuse you, and yet how should we relish our breakfast
+without you? who ever comes up to all we look
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_72' name='page_72'></a>72</span>
+for when great occasions call for your wonderful pen,
+stirring us to the quick; or whether, in an idle mood,
+we seek to while away the passing hour by a description
+of the last new folly, or the latest odour of the
+Thames, or anything else instructive and amusing.
+By the way, if the senate of Carthage took quarter as
+long sending supplies to their general as the Commons
+discussing the way to purify the Thames, I fancy he
+would not have crossed the Pyrenees.</p>
+<p>I said I went three times to Carthage; the first
+time, an English friend was leaving that day by a
+sailing ship, and I had promised to lunch with him at
+Goulette, and then see him on board, the first of which
+I did in a small house dignified by the name of
+<i>locanda</i>, or <i>H&ocirc;tel Fran&ccedil;ais</i>, where some Maltese
+captains were breakfasting, who had a strong odour of
+onions and garlic, and at another table a Savoyard was
+discussing the question of annexation with a Proven&ccedil;al,
+in what I may term <i>moiti&eacute; Fran&ccedil;ais moiti&eacute; Italien</i>.
+They gave us soup made of, I don&rsquo;t know what, but
+the pepper was very strong, or rather, I may say,
+would have been, if it were not for the strong taste of
+the water, and <i>vice vers&acirc;</i>; after that, some dried fish,
+called sardines, which they said had just been caught.
+For second course, we had a sort of <i>gigot de mouton</i>,
+which, in form, resembled the temple of Neptune at
+the &ldquo;ruins,&rdquo; and you might almost have sworn they
+had cut it into that shape on purpose; and quails, very
+excellent; and we finished with cheese, which might
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_73' name='page_73'></a>73</span>
+have been manufactured from goat&rsquo;s milk, or cow&rsquo;s
+milk, or camel&rsquo;s milk, or all three, or any other milk,
+but was dignified by the appellation of <i>Chesterrre</i>, and
+was decidedly not Stilton, and eke delicious oranges.
+In this dinner we meet, as in life, with much good to
+counteract the evil, as the delicious quails made up
+for rancid flesh of sheep or horse; so, when next Lady
+Julia Plantagenet jilts me, I will remember Jessie
+Jones; or, again, as these fragrant oranges, redolent
+of the East, caused me to forget the nauseous <i>fromage</i>,
+so shall the friendship and good opinion of Brown
+console me for the putty eye and freezing regard of
+the fashionable Fitznoodle, when next we meet, not at
+Philippi, but in the park! After lunch, and adieux, I
+mounted my horse for the ruins, as my friend&rsquo;s vessel
+did not start as expected that day, owing to the
+calm.</p>
+<p>On passing the gate of Goulette, several Arab
+convicts, in chains, shouted at me for something;
+what it was, I ignore; perhaps they asked for backsheesh,
+or tobacco, or powder, fine or coarse; or, may be,
+they called me a dog of a Giaour, and cursed my
+relations and their limbs. This Goulette appears to
+be the chief place for the Arab malefactors, and they
+are mainly employed in improving the high road
+between Goulette and Tunis, and also in repairing the
+fortifications.</p>
+<p>The afternoon was beautiful, though hot. As it
+wanted some time to dinner at Tunis, I made a <i>d&eacute;tour</i>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_74' name='page_74'></a>74</span>
+on my return to the ruins, and it requires a fine air
+to make you enjoy fine scenery. There was scarcely
+a ripple on the blue Mediterranean. Beautiful trees
+of every description, olive and orange trees, oleanders,
+and others, grew to the very base of the mountain,
+and sent up a delicious perfume. I visited the chapel
+of St. Louis, from which one enjoys a most delicious
+prospect. It is built over some god&rsquo;s temple&ndash;&ndash;whose,
+I forget, or even whether a Roman or Punic one; but
+this is dedicated to the true God and Christian worship,
+in remembrance of that venerable French king, who
+is said to have perished here, while on his way to
+Palestine, to fight the Moslem. Peace to his ashes!
+However, I soon left the hill to re-descend, for I was
+very thirsty; all of a sudden, behind an olive bush, I
+saw a head, black as ink, pop out; I hallooed to it
+first in English, then in Italian. No effect. I saw a
+female figure disappear behind a cottage, and out
+rushed a fine tall Arab, with menacing gesture, and
+more menacing language. I was in his garden. &ldquo;A
+glass of water, please,&rdquo; said I, in Italian. Still no
+effect. I thought he was going to be savage, when,
+from behind the house popped, or rather rolled out,
+another little naked, curly-headed, black ball&ndash;&ndash;a
+triennial by his looks&ndash;&ndash;the Arab&rsquo;s only boy, no doubt.
+He was so irresistibly comic in appearance, that I burst
+into a fit of laughter. The man&rsquo;s face changed in a
+moment. I suppose he thought I was admiring the
+child. He immediately understood what I required,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_75' name='page_75'></a>75</span>
+which he brought in such a large cup, that I thought
+it was intended for a pail. I nearly emptied it, however.
+He then volunteered bread and olives, which,
+however, I declined, to spoil my dinner. We then
+made mutual signs of greeting, and parted. Had
+I been able to talk, I would have stopped longer.
+There was a sudden friendship sprung up between me
+and that poor unlettered infant of the desert.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_76' name='page_76'></a>76</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_XIV_THE_RUINS_AGAIN' id='CHAPTER_XIV_THE_RUINS_AGAIN'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+<h3>THE RUINS AGAIN.</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>Great Extent of the Ancient City.&ndash;&ndash;Marsa, on the Sea-shore.&ndash;&ndash;Carthaginian
+Catacombs near Camatte.&ndash;&ndash;Quail Shooting.&ndash;&ndash;Trait of Honesty
+in the Arabs.&ndash;&ndash;The Arab Character.&ndash;&ndash;Anecdotes concerning them.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>The second time I went to the ruins I went, like Scipio,
+to weep, not over Carthage, but the loss of my breakfast;
+and the more so that it was to have been a very good one&ndash;&ndash;a
+regular pic-nic, or <i>f&ecirc;te champ&ecirc;tre</i>&ndash;&ndash;under olive-trees,
+or orange-trees, or palms, shaded from the scorching
+rays of Ph&oelig;bus. Champagne, Burgundy (my favourite
+wine), were to crown the repast. Nor was the food
+to be only corporal, but eke mental, as the great explorer&ndash;&ndash;the
+great excavator&ndash;&ndash;was to be there, to have
+explained that this was a theatre, that an aqueduct; the
+god to whom this temple or that altar was dedicated;
+and how many four-in-hands, driven by fast young
+Ph&oelig;nician guardsmen, would have been able to pass
+each other down that &ldquo;<i>via longa</i>.&rdquo; How many stones
+made up that house; and that this was a bath, and not
+a harem; and that a certain statue of some celebrity&ndash;&ndash;whose
+name I had never heard, and never shall&ndash;&ndash;was,
+by some, supposed to lie 100 feet under this marble
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_77' name='page_77'></a>77</span>
+pillar, though, according to others, he might be
+102 feet deep interred&ndash;&ndash;for all of which, I daresay,
+I should have been the wiser and the better;
+but I was sufficiently mundane to regret my <i>d&eacute;je&ucirc;ner</i>
+the most. The fact is, A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, whose back was
+not sufficiently recovered to accompany me riding,
+and the American Consul and Davies, had gone
+with the edibles and beverages in a carriage, and
+were to have met me at the temple of some god.
+But, unfortunately, I mistook the deity&rsquo;s name, and
+afterwards found that their shrine lay ten miles
+off from the one I worshipped at. This will give one
+a good idea of the vastness of the ancient city, and
+struck me more than all the lectures and description
+in the world. Where people were crowded like bees,
+as in our London, buying and selling, and riding and
+driving, some 2,000 years past&ndash;&ndash;occupied then, as
+now, in all the frivolities of this empty world&ndash;&ndash;to find a
+complete solitude&ndash;&ndash;a desert nearly&ndash;&ndash;where wander
+the jackal and hyena! A very clever people, no
+doubt, these same Ph&oelig;nicians were, to judge by their
+edifices; yet they had not discovered the theory of
+water finding its own level, as the peculiar construction
+of an aqueduct proves, the remains of which still
+exist, and which was to convey water some forty miles
+from the interior. There was a Roman city built over
+the Punic one, and the latter alone, of course, interests,
+as the former is seen any day, at Pompeii, in better perfection.
+Besides Angelo and myself, there was not a
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_78' name='page_78'></a>78</span>
+human being in view&ndash;&ndash;yes, there are three Arab
+youths reclining behind that ruin of a wall, motionless
+as statues; I thought they were statues at first. Two
+have long flint guns, perhaps to keep crows off the
+corn, or shoot quails; or, perhaps, to shoot me if they
+can; for I have a fine gold chain, not to mention a
+ring, which would maintain them till they died of old
+age&ndash;&ndash;which could keep them in ease and elegance for
+a couple of years, at the least. You have yet to learn,
+if you know it not, that ten Arabs, fine men though
+they be, with such rusty weapons as yours, are barely
+a match for one European with an arm such as mine.
+But, my poor boys, there is no chance for you. I
+have, you see, a revolver with six barrels. When you
+see that, your brow droops as much as your eyes
+sparkled when you saw the chain. It is fancy, on my
+part, most probably; so, off my horse, and off with
+my clothes. The sun was scorching, and I took a
+delicious swim in the sea, and then rode on to Marsa,
+where is a ruin (everything is in ruins here) of modern
+date&ndash;&ndash;the late Bey&rsquo;s palace&ndash;&ndash;a most superb edifice. I
+said a ruin, yet it is scarcely a ruin, though fast becoming
+so. Marsa is a sort of watering-place for the Christians
+of Tunis during the heat of summer. A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&rsquo;s description
+of the part he visited I will give: &ldquo;I went with Davies
+and the Yankee Consul to see the catacombs of Carthage,
+near Camatte, which completely undermined a large
+mountain by the sea coast. They contain rows of niches
+for the coffins, and each chamber communicates with
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_79' name='page_79'></a>79</span>
+others. They hold some twenty coffins each. Some
+skeletons have been found, and nails; the former crumbled
+to pieces immediately, on being exposed to the air.
+These catacombs are now inhabited by hyenas and
+jackals, and had a strong odour of those animals.&rdquo; It is
+supposed they extend for miles, but the impurity of
+the atmosphere precludes entrance to any distance.</p>
+<p>My third visit was to shoot quails on ground where,
+centuries ago, Hannibal had passed at the head of
+his bronzed legions, amid admiring groups of citizens,
+the bands playing, perhaps, &ldquo;<i>Partant pour l&rsquo;Italie</i>.&rdquo;
+The migration of quails takes place at this season,
+and, with a good retrieving spaniel, hundreds may be
+shot. But they lie very close, and require a dog to
+put them up. They are by no means easy to shoot,
+and require snipe shot. They lie in the young corn,
+which is very thick and thriving here as on the field
+of Waterloo. As I had put up No. 6 shot by mistake,
+and had no spaniel, I bagged but few comparatively,
+some twenty. A great number of these quails are sent
+alive to England, and on board the Italian steamer from
+Sicily there were about twenty large cages, containing
+about fifty live quails each, which they told me were
+going to Britain; they had been caught like larks by
+the net.</p>
+<p>By the way, I had here a proof of Arab honesty,
+refreshing as an oasis in the desert. Riding back
+through a village to Goutelle (where I was staying,
+previously to embarking for Malta), I dropped my
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_80' name='page_80'></a>80</span>
+powder-flask, unawares to myself. I had not passed
+two minutes when I heard a loud halloo, and turning,
+perceived an Arab running at full speed to me with
+my powder-flask. Now, powder is what Arabs prize
+more than gold even, precious stones, or tobacco, yet
+they might easily have taken this without my knowing
+anything. On my offering him coin worth about sixpence,
+the Arab, in broken <i>lingua Franca</i>, made me
+comprehend he preferred a few charges of powder,
+which I immediately gave, and which he carefully
+wrapped up in some old paper. I record this, because
+at Tunis and elsewhere, we hear of nothing but Arab
+dishonesty and thieving propensities. Is it true, and
+this exception a proof of the rule? or are all these
+stories false? It is hard to say.</p>
+<p>They are a curious race, apparently a mass of
+contradictions. One thing is certain; you must not
+treat them in the <i>du haut en bas</i> style. They are very
+proud, and naturally regard every Christian <i>ipso facto</i>
+as individually inferior to the Mussulman, more
+specially in the far interior, where Christians have
+not as yet penetrated. A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; and his party had
+started for Kef, <i>malgr&eacute;</i> my dissuasions. The fact of a
+man going to explore Punic ruins with one going to
+discover Mauritanian lions, was, to my mind, like
+mixing oil and vinegar, or fire and water, or eating
+meat with your knife, or soup with a fork, or taking
+two helpings of soup, or anything else incongruous.
+D&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; was to be their interpreter. The Arabs there
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_81' name='page_81'></a>81</span>
+told them that a lion can carry away a camel on his
+back, but not lift a sheep. This they firmly believe.
+The reason assigned is, that in former times (when
+animals spoke), the lion said, &ldquo;I will carry off this
+sheep, with or without the consent of Allah;&rdquo; and
+Allah said to the lion, &ldquo;You shall not;&rdquo; and from
+that time the monarch has never been able to lift a
+sheep. At one time the man and the lion were great
+friends, and the lion did not know he was stronger
+than the man. One day, as they were out walking
+together, a thorn ran into the lion&rsquo;s foot; he limped,
+and stopped to pull it out, when the man, in derision,
+said, &ldquo;What! so strong a creature hurt with a thorn?&rdquo;
+Then the lion in anger ran the thorn into the man&rsquo;s
+eye, who cried out with pain. This proved to the
+lion the man&rsquo;s inferiority, and ever after they were
+declared enemies. At a place called Tibursok,
+where A&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;&rsquo;s party passed on their road to Keff,
+not a Christian, or even a Jew, were to be seen,
+consequently the Arabs were very intolerant. D&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;
+walked into this town alone, in front of the party,
+and, speaking Arabic well, questioned one of the
+Arabs about some ruin, when another came up and
+said, &ldquo;Why do you attend to that dog of a Christian?&rdquo;
+D&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; took no notice, when the other shouted out,
+&ldquo;Cursed be your father, your mother, and all the
+members of your house.&rdquo; D&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; then collared him;
+the Arab inquired, &ldquo;What for?&rdquo; &ldquo;Because you
+cursed my relatives,&rdquo; said D&ndash;&ndash;&ndash;, seeing the rest of
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_82' name='page_82'></a>82</span>
+the party with the Bey&rsquo;s escort coming up, &ldquo;and now,
+just show me the Caid&rsquo;s residence, and I will have you
+bastinadoed.&rdquo; However, as some of the other Arabs
+crowded round and begged for mercy, D&ndash;&ndash;&ndash; thought
+it better to let him off.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_83' name='page_83'></a>83</span>
+<a name='CHAPTER_XV_HOME' id='CHAPTER_XV_HOME'></a>
+<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+<h3>HOME!</h3>
+</div>
+<blockquote>
+<p>My fellow-passenger, the Sportsman.&ndash;&ndash;Passage from Tunis to Malta
+in a Sailing Vessel.&ndash;&ndash;Disagreeables of the Passage.&ndash;&ndash;Home,
+Overland.&ndash;&ndash;Conclusion.</p>
+</blockquote>
+<p>On the steamer <i>Meludiah</i>, for Malta, I found a
+sporting Frenchman on deck. He had been my
+fellow-passenger from Bona to Tunis, and carried a
+revolver and a gun; the first for porpoises, the second
+for gulls, &amp;c. He recounted to me, with great glee,
+how he had shot a grosbeak, and some other small
+birds, near Tunis, and given them to the cook on
+board for our dinner. It was a Mussulman steamer,
+and, being Rhamazan, they did not serve dinner till
+after sunset. I was nearly famished. The first course
+was salad served with rancid oil, which immediately
+brought me and the Frenchman on deck. During
+the rest of the passage I made Angelo serve my
+repasts. The Frenchman was a character. &ldquo;<i>Je
+viens de perdre ma femme</i>,&rdquo; he said; &ldquo;<i>il y a des
+femmes mechantes vous savez, Monsieur, et des femmes
+bonnes; la mienne &eacute;tait bonne! mais bonne! Tenez, je
+l&rsquo;ai mis dans le cercueil moi m&ecirc;me, et maintenant je suis
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_84' name='page_84'></a>84</span>
+ici pour me distraire, car je n&rsquo;en trouverai pas une
+comme celle-l&agrave;, allez. Je ferai le voyage, j&rsquo;irai en
+Alexandrie&ndash;&ndash;n&rsquo;importe o&ugrave;, travailler j&rsquo;irai &agrave; l&rsquo;Isthme de
+Suez.</i>&rdquo; At last we arrived in Malta. It is a pity for
+officers and others there is no regular communication by
+steam between Malta and Tunis; for the <i>d&eacute;sagr&eacute;mens</i>
+of a sailing-vessel are by no means despicable. Witness
+a friend of mine&rsquo;s report thereon:&ndash;&ndash;</p>
+<p>&ldquo;25th.&ndash;&ndash;Came on board the <i>Gemo</i> at seven <span class='smcaplc'>A.M.</span>;
+went on shore again at nine, and stopped all day.
+Dined and slept on board; rough living here, but no
+cattle, which is a great thing.&ndash;&ndash;26th. Set sail at eleven
+<span class='smcaplc'>A.M.</span>; fair wind; fine day, and very hot.&ndash;&ndash;27th. Rain
+all night; wind light and variable, and one made but
+little progress. Cape Bona still close to us this morning.
+We are only going at three and three-quarter
+knots per hour. A fine breeze got up at twelve, and
+at seven we passed Panteleria Isle, going at seven
+knots.&ndash;&ndash;28th. Wind fell away early this morning,
+and about eleven blew strong from the east: the worst
+quarter it could for us.&ndash;&ndash;29th. This accursed wind has
+lasted all night, and blows harder this morning; the
+sea, too, is very high. It is intensely miserable;
+rough sea, bad grub, no one to talk to, no books, and
+no idea when we shall reach Malta.&ndash;&ndash;30th. East wind
+still; an almighty swell on; one can neither sit, lie,
+nor stand with comfort. The coast of Sicily is very
+plain this morning. We are about forty-five miles
+from Malta, but no one can say when we shall reach
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_85' name='page_85'></a>85</span>
+it. Fresh provisions have nearly come to an end. Let
+any one ever catch me on board a sailing-ship again,
+unless I am forced.&ndash;&ndash;1st. Half a gale, and a heavy
+sea last night; got no sleep, as the ship jumped so;
+and the <a name='TC_4'></a><ins class="trchange" title="Was 'mattrass'">mattress</ins>&ndash;&ndash;fancy now!&ndash;&ndash;is stuffed with sticks,
+and is so cursedly hard, that, after five days of it, one&rsquo;s
+bones ache all over. A very fine day; but this awful
+wind still east. At eleven <span class='smcaplc'>A.M.</span> we were off Gozo,
+only twenty miles from our destination; but it was
+impossible to get there. The diet and food on board
+are awful; I am nearly starved. There was only one
+thing amusing. A Maltese, who slept in the other
+berth near me, sneezed nine times in as many minutes;
+and, after each sternutation, he went through a short
+formula of prayer, beginning &lsquo;Santo Something,&rsquo; to
+keep the devil to leeward, I suppose; and, egad, I
+think he must have been on board <i>in propri&acirc; person&acirc;</i>,
+under some disguise, to have caused us so bad a passage.
+This afternoon, to vary the programme pleasantly, we
+had a dead calm. Our miseries seem to have no end.
+I begin to think I shall rival the &lsquo;Flying Dutchman,&rsquo;
+and never make my port, but sail on for ever.&ndash;&ndash;2nd.
+A north-west wind sprang up at five <span class='smcaplc'>P.M.</span>, and we
+reached Malta at seven.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Thus, the sailing-vessel took seven days to do what
+I did in thirty hours on the steamer. After the usual
+amount of driving, dining, &amp;c., at Malta, in the words
+of the poet I bid</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_86' name='page_86'></a>86</span></div>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>Adieu to joys of La Valette,<br />
+Adieu, sirocco, sun, and sweat;<br />
+Adieu, ye females without graces,<br />
+Adieu, red coats and redder faces;<br />
+Adieu, the supercilious air<br />
+Of those that strut <i>en militaire</i>.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<p>And now the word is &ldquo;homeward;&rdquo; and across a
+track well known to the English tourist, we journey
+onward, till</p>
+<table summary=''><tr><td>
+<p class='cg'>The mountains of Trieste afar are seen,<br />
+And farther yet, the Alps, whose highest peak<br />
+Now glitters with a gay and snowy sheen<br />
+In the bright sun; as quick our sailors seek<br />
+An anchorage in the port, where Turk and Greek,<br />
+Swede and Levantine, and full many more,<br />
+The haughty Spaniard, and the German sleek,<br />
+All races, from the Nile unto the Nore,<br />
+Into Trieste, in many a varied costume pour.<br />
+<br />
+Along thy silent streets I wander now,<br />
+Venice, once queen, aye, empress of the sea!<br />
+Fairest in art as clime, yet sunk so low<br />
+Beneath the despot Teuton&rsquo;s rule, I see<br />
+Thy halls deserted, fallen, yet in thee<br />
+Much splendour to admire there still exists.<br />
+Well could I quit my native land, and flee<br />
+The rugged northern clime, the vapid mists,<br />
+With thee to dwell, did I that only what me lists.<br />
+<br />
+The fiery car speeds on her iron way,<br />
+Through hill, o&rsquo;er valley quickly do we fly.<br />
+There lies the grot of Adelberg, and day<br />
+Sees us past Gratze&rsquo;s fortress hasten by<br />
+Like lightning&rsquo;s flash, nor stop until we spy<br />
+St. Stephen&rsquo;s dome from out the darkness peer.<br />
+Like <i>bas reliefs</i> her turrets in the sky<br />
+O&rsquo;ertop Vienna, great the pious fear<br />
+Of holy men, who such vast beauteous structures rear.<br />
+
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_87' name='page_87'></a>87</span><br />
+There C&oelig;ur de Lion lived and almost died,<br />
+In yonder ruin gray o&rsquo;erbent by time,<br />
+But that a troubadour, a servant tried,<br />
+His well-loved master sought through every clime;<br />
+Nor sought in vain, for by a simple rhyme,<br />
+A soft tuned sonnet, in a dungeon cold,<br />
+Imprisoned here he found him for no crime,<br />
+And saved. The ruins past, I now behold<br />
+Prague&rsquo;s lofty palaces arise, and turrets old.<br />
+<br />
+The scene is changed by many a lovely vale:<br />
+Upon the Elbe my rapid way I went,<br />
+Where Nature reigns supreme, nor aught avail<br />
+&rsquo;Gainst her the charms a Raphael&rsquo;s touch can lend<br />
+To Art&rsquo;s supremest works; these all depend<br />
+On light, on colour, on the master&rsquo;s hand;<br />
+Nature&rsquo;s own work, so thought I, as I bend<br />
+My steps through Dresden&rsquo;s galleries, and stand<br />
+Before Art&rsquo;s fairest deeds in this fair Saxon land!<br />
+<br />
+Swift be my verse, and swifter still my pace<br />
+(Oh, pardon me, for I&rsquo;ll be sworn I bore)<br />
+By Berlin&rsquo;s quays, past oft a plain, I race<br />
+To Hamburg&rsquo;s crowded port, until the roar<br />
+Of ocean&rsquo;s wave is heard again once more.<br />
+Once more upon the deck I stand and view<br />
+Behind that cloud arise old Albion&rsquo;s shore&ndash;&ndash;<br />
+Shore that I love, roast beef, plum-pudding too,<br />
+Pale ale, the <i>Times</i>, and scandal, like a Briton true.</p>
+</td></tr></table>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_88' name='page_88'></a>88</span>
+<a name='NOTES_FOR_THE_SPORTSMAN_OR_TOURIST_IN_NORTH_AFRICA' id='NOTES_FOR_THE_SPORTSMAN_OR_TOURIST_IN_NORTH_AFRICA'></a>
+<h2>NOTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN OR TOURIST<br />IN NORTH AFRICA.</h2>
+</div>
+<p>The best time to go to Algeria or Tunis is October,
+when the heats of summer begin to become cooler.
+By all means, let the traveller, if he wish to be independent,
+travel on horseback. In Algeria he will meet
+with accommodation everywhere, and proceed as safely
+as in London, or any part of England.</p>
+<p>He can go to Boussada or Laghouat, about six days&rsquo;
+journey from Algiers, staying every night at caravanserais
+<i>en route</i>. Boussada I did not visit myself, but
+from rumour, I believe, there is excellent gazelle
+shooting in the neighbourhood. By the plains of
+Boussada, the tourist can pass into Tunisia over the
+French frontier. At Algiers, the best hotels are the
+H&ocirc;tel d&rsquo;Orient and the H&ocirc;tel de la R&eacute;gence, on the
+Grande Place. For ammunition, I recommend Hu&egrave;t,
+armourer, near the English Consul&rsquo;s; and for horses&ndash;&ndash;Fran&ccedil;ois
+or Francisco, a Maltese, who speaks French
+and English. The grand thing to be considered is
+economy of space. Let every necessary for clothing,
+if possible, be crammed into the saddle-bags attached
+to one&rsquo;s saddle, as ammunition, guns, &amp;c. &amp;c., must
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_89' name='page_89'></a>89</span>
+be placed on the other horses. Well did the Romans
+call baggage by the appellation of <i>impedimenta</i>. In
+this country it is so literally, not figuratively. It is
+absolutely necessary to have an interpreter who can
+talk Arabic; for though in Algeria there are many
+natives who jabber broken French or Italian, even this
+<i>lingua Franca</i> is so disguised that it is almost impossible
+to comprehend them; and in the interior there
+are very few &ldquo;indig&egrave;nes&rdquo; who understand anything but
+Arabic. In Tunisia nothing but Arabic is of any use
+whatever.</p>
+<p>To travel in the interior of Tunis, it is necessary to
+have a mounted escort, and also a letter of recommendation
+to the &ldquo;Caids&rdquo; (mayors) of the different
+towns through which you pass. Here you must expect
+a great want of comfort, as there are no beds, and you
+generally have to sleep on the floor. On the Lake of
+Tunis, close to the city, there is very good flamingo
+shooting. The flamingoes sit on the water in rows like
+a regiment, and the method I employed in shooting
+them was as follows:&ndash;&ndash;I used to take a boat with my
+gun loaded with buckshot (chevrotine), and my rifle.
+I fired my rifle at the line of flamingoes when about
+400 yards off, which used to bring them flying over the
+boat for curiosity, when I managed, generally with my
+gun, to bring down one or two. This is, I am sure,
+the best way of shooting them, though several Europeans
+told me at Tunis I could shoot them with the
+rifle.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_90' name='page_90'></a>90</span></div>
+<p>The shortest way direct to Tunis is by Malta; and,
+in passing, let the sporting tourist visit Gozo, where,
+in April and September, there is excellent quail
+shooting.</p>
+<p>The inhabitants of this isle are a simple, primitive
+race of people, very lively and intelligent; they speak
+nearly a pure Arabic. They live chiefly by fishing,
+and also serve as sailors in foreign vessels, where they
+remain sometimes entire years without being heard of
+by their families. In this way they often find a watery
+grave; and in the isle I met some females, whose male
+relations had all perished in this way.</p>
+<p>Navigation appears to have a great charm for these
+simple islanders; and when they sail along these
+southern waters, where the sun shines with a brilliant
+lustre, and the moon with a fairy splendour, they
+forget not the simple home where the members of
+their family are crouched side by side, enveloped in a
+sort of bournouse, and drinking perhaps tea which
+differs only nominally from the tepid waters of the
+surrounding ocean, and gabbling a jargon which one
+can scarcely believe that they understand themselves.
+The charm which binds these poor people together in
+their sober and modest existence is less the <i>penchant</i>
+of natural and intimate affection, than the chain of
+habit, the necessity of a life of fraternal community
+and sentiment. A certain equality of position and
+social development gives them the same desires, the
+same ends of existence, and like ideas produce an
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_91' name='page_91'></a>91</span>
+easy mutual understanding. Each one reads, as it
+were, in the eye of the other; and when they talk,
+each knows what the other will say almost before he
+has opened his lips. All the ordinary relations of life
+are thus present to their memory; and so, by a simple
+intonation of the voice, by the expression of the
+visage, by a mute gesture, they excite, <i>inter se</i>, as
+many smiles or tears, more joy or vexation, than we,
+among our equals, could perhaps evoke by the longest
+demonstrations or declarations. For we civilised ones
+live, on an average, in intellectual solitude; each of
+us, thanks to our particular form of mind or education,
+has received a different bias of character; each of
+us, morally weighed, thinks, acts, and believes differently
+from his neighbour; and hence misunderstandings
+arise so frequently among us, that, even in the
+largest families, life in common becomes difficult, and
+we are often, as it were, apart, utterly unknown one
+to another, and everywhere feel ourselves as on strange
+territory.</p>
+<p>Races, indeed, have lived&ndash;&ndash;aye, for centuries&ndash;&ndash;in
+a state of community of ideas and sentiments
+such as I have described in the Isle of Gozo.
+Perhaps, but only perhaps, the Roman Church of the
+Middle Ages wished to establish among the nations
+of Catholic Europe such a state of equality and uniformity
+of spirit. Hence, no doubt, the reason why
+she took under her guardianship all the social relations,
+all the force and manifestations of this life&ndash;&ndash;in
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_92' name='page_92'></a>92</span>
+fine, man himself, moral and physical man. I will
+not deny, nor will any one else, that much peaceful
+happiness, much piety has been established by these
+means; that human existence in the Middle Ages took
+an expression of greater fervour and intimacy; that
+the arts, like flowers, mysteriously developed, unfolded
+then, and showed to the day a beauty we now
+admire and deplore, and that the rash and unquiet
+spirit of modern days cannot imitate. But mind has
+its rights from all eternity; mind will not be fettered
+by dogmas, or lulled to sleep by the ringing of a bell;
+mind has cast aside his swaddling-clothes, and broken
+the string by which his nurse (the Roman Church)
+held him, and, in the madness and intoxication of
+his holiday, has rounded the globe, has traversed all
+nations, has scaled the Himalayas, and, returning
+again to Mother Earth, has begun to meditate over
+the wonders of creation by day, and the stars of
+heaven by night. We know not, indeed, nor ever
+shall, perhaps, the number of the stars that shine in
+the canopy of heaven; we have not yet unveiled the
+dread mysteries of earth or of sea. Enough: many
+enigmas are resolved; we know much&ndash;&ndash;we guess at
+still more. There remains one question unsolved&ndash;&ndash;it
+is this: Is there more real felicity in our minds now
+than there was in ancient times? I will confess that
+if we look at the many, now-a-days, we could scarcely
+answer this question in the affirmative; yet, it must
+also be remembered that happiness, which is in part due
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_93' name='page_93'></a>93</span>
+to mental tyranny, is scarcely true happiness, and that
+in the few moments of real intellectual dignity some
+educated man can enjoy more real felicity than the
+uneducated coal-heaver during many years of uninquiring
+tranquillity.</p>
+<p>But while, with a certain benevolence, I was dilating
+on the intentions of the Roman Church, I find myself
+all of a sudden seized with a zeal worthy of Exeter
+Hall. So I return to my Gozo friends. Living among
+these simple, Christian islanders, of Moorish descent, one
+is apt to meditate on the mighty transformations which
+have swept over Europe and left them untouched.</p>
+<p>The reason I recommend the route <i>vi&acirc;</i> Malta and
+Tunis, instead of passing by Algiers, as I did, is the
+miserable accommodation on board the steamers between
+Tunis and Algiers. The passengers on these boats
+are chiefly bagmen and colonists of different nations.
+We had a Savoyard, a Spaniard, and two or three
+Frenchmen and Italians at one table; and the noise,
+and row, and heat after dinner were very edifying.
+Bottles were quickly emptied, and heads as quickly
+filled. One of the guests sung songs; another
+neighed; a third shouted in tragic verse; a fourth
+spoke Latin; and a fifth preached temperance; a
+sixth gave himself out for a professor, and his lecture
+was nearly as follows:&ndash;&ndash;&ldquo;The earth, my friends, is a
+cylinder, and men are but little diminutive dots
+spread over its surface, apparently at hazard; but
+<i>voil&agrave;</i>, the cylinder takes a fancy to turn, the little
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_94' name='page_94'></a>94</span>
+dots are hustled about, some here, others there, and so
+emit a sort of vibratory sound, some frequently, others
+more rarely; and this is the marvellous, complicated
+music that men call universal history,&rdquo; &amp;c. &amp;c. A
+fat-looking German, who kept his nose continually
+dipped in a glass of punch, inhaling the steam with a
+very gratified look, observed that he felt as though he
+was in the refreshment saloon of the Berlin theatre;
+while the Savoyard kept looking at us through his glass,
+as though it were a <i>lorgnette</i>, and the red wine streamed
+down his purple cheeks into his gaping jaws.</p>
+<p>And now to proceed to matters of sport. With
+regard to small game, partridges, ducks, quails,
+rabbits, &amp;c., there is abundance to be found in
+Algeria. Near Algiers there is hawking of partridges
+and hares among the Arab tribes; and, before the
+French occupation, falconry was the especial amusement
+of the Arab aristocracy. For shooting of
+small game I would more especially recommend
+a caravanserai called Oued el Massin, about half
+way between Milianah and Teniet. Partridges
+and woodcock abound there; the quarters, moreover,
+are remarkably good, and the <i>cuisine</i>,
+superintended by my friend, Mr. Ball, is by
+no means despicable. From Oued el Massin, a
+day&rsquo;s journey beyond Milianah, I am convinced
+excellent shooting may be obtained with a couple of
+good pointers. Quails are also very numerous.
+Aquatic birds abound in Algeria, more especially on
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_95' name='page_95'></a>95</span>
+the lake Fetzara, near Bona, in the province of Constantine.
+Nothing is more beautiful than the lake
+Fetzara at sunrise; on its banks are a thousand plants
+and flowers of every colour and hue, and on its waters
+repose birds of every description and plumage. As
+yet it is dusk; everything animal and vegetable is in
+repose; but with the first ray of the sun come
+sounds and cries of every imaginable description, and
+thousands, aye, myriads, of birds are everywhere on
+the wing. In the impetuosity of their flight, they
+shake, as it were, the plants and flowers on the border
+of the lake, who thus pay their morning salute to the
+sun of Africa. A small barque, however, advances
+(<i>vide</i> picture), and from this frail skiff suddenly
+appears the flash of a gun. In a moment the whole
+air is in motion; grebes with their beautiful plumage,
+flamingoes with flaming wings, wild swans, and ducks,
+and teals, by thousands whirl through the air.</p>
+<p>Is it really to be believed that Nature has affixed (so
+to speak) some danger to everything charming? One
+is almost tempted to say so, after examining the enchanting
+borders of this lake, whose azure waters flow
+from the mountainous frontier of Tunisia to the opulent
+plains of Bona. You botanists, who are attracted by
+the singular colour or strange beauty of some plant or
+flower here, beware how you approach. Under this
+magnificent vegetation a trap&ndash;&ndash;a mortal trap&ndash;&ndash;is laid:
+the banks are of quick-sand! One step, and you meet
+death&ndash;&ndash;a horrible death. The earth gives way, and
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_96' name='page_96'></a>96</span>
+you disappear without a trace, for those delicious
+flowers and plants close up their ranks again, like
+immortelles over your sepulchre. Listen:&ndash;&ndash;A French
+cavalry officer came from Bona to shoot flamingoes
+on this lake. He was accompanied by his servant, also
+on horseback. He shot a flamingo, who tumbled just
+on the border of the lake, and dispatched his servant
+to fetch the bird. At three or four yards from the bird,
+the soldier disappeared with his horse; and some Arabs,
+coming up, at the cries of the officer (for the Mussulman
+believes that the genius of the lake, propitious to
+Mahometans, devours the profane European), with
+difficulty saved his servant. As soon as the soldier
+was out of danger, he cried out, with all the gasconade
+of a Frenchman, &ldquo;<i>Je ne laisserai pas l&agrave; ce maudit
+oiseau, cause de ma m&eacute;saventure!</i>&rdquo; In spite of the
+energetic dissuasions of the natives, whom, by the
+way, he could not understand, he advanced on foot;
+but the earth opened again&ndash;&ndash;he disappeared. One
+moment his head remained above this liquid ground,
+one moment he cried for aid, and the abyss had
+swallowed its prey. However, at certain points, this
+lake is quite approachable; and, there being several
+barques, excellent sport may be had. I would, however,
+recommend sportsmen to procure a letter of
+introduction to some neighbouring grandee. There is
+an excellent caravanserai close by, at Ain Mokra.
+For gazelles one must go quite into the interior of the
+desert&ndash;&ndash;to Boussada and Laghouat&ndash;&ndash;in the great
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_97' name='page_97'></a>97</span>
+Sahara desert. Ghazella is, in the Arab language,
+the synonym for beauty and velocity.</p>
+<p>Those persons who really desire sport, however, I
+would recommend to travel from Algiers to Tunisia by
+land, and, if possible, let them pass by Kef, which is
+the frontier town. In the vicinity of this town there are,
+no doubt, plenty of lions; and my friend (who visited
+it with Dr. Davies, the celebrated explorer and excavator
+at Carthage) heard of several there, though his
+stay was so short that he did not succeed in bagging
+one. For lion-hunting, as for many other things, &ldquo;<i>il
+faut bien de la patience</i>.&rdquo; Thus it very frequently
+happens that a man may search without success for
+months and months for the whereabouts of a lion, and
+then, suddenly, when your hunter is least prepared for
+it, and perhaps unarmed, the monarch of the desert
+will present himself to his astonished gaze. Notwithstanding
+the formidable character attributed to the
+lion, he will rarely attack any man unless previously
+molested. There are three sorts of lions in North
+Africa&ndash;&ndash;the black, the tawny, and the grey, though
+the latter is by some supposed to be the same genus as
+the tawny, only grizzled by age. There are two ways
+of hunting the lion, by day and by night. That by
+day is by battue, when a whole tribe turns out to
+&ldquo;beard the lion in his den&rdquo; and make him break
+cover. Those who are well armed are posted at the
+outlets of the cover or beaten tracks by which the lion
+generally passes; any Europeans who assist are usually
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_98' name='page_98'></a>98</span>
+so stationed; they, however, need have but little fear,
+for the monarch almost always attacks the <i>tawny</i> native
+by preference. Is it from sympathy of colour, <i>similia
+similibus gaudent</i>, or from a sort of instinct that the
+European is better armed, or because he supposes the
+Arab will make a better repast? The other way of
+killing the lion is in ambuscade, of which there are
+two or three kinds. Sometimes the hunters dig a hole
+in the ground near the spot where the lion is in the
+habit of passing by night; over this hole they throw
+branches of trees, which they cover with stones and
+mortar; they then place some bait near, which can
+be commanded through holes made in the covering,
+and when the lion approaches to examine the carcase,
+he is immediately brought down. Another way of
+shooting is from a tree. My friend, Count Zamoyski,
+who has a residence at the Lake Fetzara, shot several
+in this way. I will, however, refer the reader to
+Jules G&eacute;rard&rsquo;s book for a description of this kind of
+sport. I did not stay long enough in North Africa to
+be able to judge of it myself. What I recount now
+with regard to lion hunting is from hearsay, not from
+personal experience.</p>
+<p>The panther is a more dangerous animal than the
+lion, and much more cunning. Like his relative, the
+cat, he is very difficult to kill, and it must be a well-directed
+ball through the head or heart that will
+prevent him from avenging his wound. For the rest,
+he is hunted much as the lion. I will not mention
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_99' name='page_99'></a>99</span>
+the jackal and hyena, both of which animals can be
+shot after dusk from the tent or hut, by throwing out
+some carcase or bait before sunset to attract them.
+Let us pass to that animal which, in my opinion, of all
+creatures presents by far the best sport on the coast of
+Barbary&ndash;&ndash;I mean, of course, the wild boar, or halouf,
+as he is called in the Arabic language.</p>
+<p>I had long had a desire to hunt the halouf. On
+my arrival at the Caid&rsquo;s house at Solyman (about
+twenty miles from Tunis), an old Arab named
+Mahmoud was sent for, who was reported to be, like
+Nimrod, a mighty hunter before the Lord and before
+the tribes.</p>
+<p>The next day we started before sunrise to the
+river, where the boar was supposed to be.</p>
+<p><i>En route</i> I questioned my Arab by interpreter.
+&ldquo;The halouf,&rdquo; he replied, &ldquo;when wounded, is as dangerous
+as the lion. I have,&rdquo; he continued, &ldquo;myself
+seen a boar repulse the attack of a young lion.&rdquo;</p>
+<p>Of boars there are no doubt plenty in Tunisia.
+They are fond of lying in the thickest brushwood,
+what the French call <i>broussailles</i>, and the main difficulty
+is to drive them out. It requires some one
+perfectly conversant with Arabic, and having some
+authority over the natives, to make them beat properly;
+otherwise, in a short time they will give over,
+and pretend that there is nothing there. The best
+localities for boar are near Solyman, in Tunisia, and
+Biserta, about fifty miles from Tunis. As for Algeria,
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_100' name='page_100'></a>100</span>
+the country is now so much frequented by Europeans
+of all nations, who frighten, if they do not kill, the
+game, that one has to go a long way into the interior
+before any sport can be met with.</p>
+<p>The French talk a great deal about &ldquo;<i>la chasseaux
+panth&egrave;res</i>&rdquo; and &ldquo;<i>la chasse aux lions</i>,&rdquo; &amp;c. &amp;c.; but,
+in my humble opinion, their forte is &ldquo;<i>la chasse aux
+dames</i>&rdquo; or, in plain Saxon English, the success of the
+&ldquo;<i>salon</i>.&rdquo; Let me conclude with a few words regarding
+regimen. In this burning climate, above all things
+observe temperance. I do not mean by that expression
+that you must be a teetotaller, but the more you
+can abstain from heating liquids or solids, the better.
+The other extreme, too, is bad; too much lemonade,
+or water, or sherbet, is apt to produce diarrh&oelig;a.
+Nature seems to have indicated to the Arabs the best
+beverage in this zone, both to quench thirst and to
+preserve health, viz., coffee; but as on a march or
+out shooting you cannot always stop to have a fire lit,
+the next best drink is a little weak brandy and water,
+which you should carry from where you start in the
+morning, as the water of the rivers is pestiferous. To
+avoid fever or malaria, I would always take a small
+quantity of bark of quinine. During the time I was
+in Africa I enjoyed most excellent health, as I believe
+everybody may who takes the commonest precautions,
+and does not indulge, as he may with impunity in
+more northern climes.</p>
+<p>Finally, let me give one piece of advice to the
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_101' name='page_101'></a>101</span>
+sportsman. If he comes to these countries with the
+expectation that he can, as in England, go out with
+his gun of a morning and return with his bag full in
+the evening to a capital dinner, he had better stay at
+home. To do anything in this country, a man must
+make his mind up to long and fatiguing marches in
+the heat of the day, with miserable quarters often at
+night, in places infested by vermin of every description;
+in a word, he must be content to rough it. I
+will also candidly own that, from the accounts I had
+previously received, I was very much disappointed as
+regards the quantity of large game to be found in
+these parts; still, I was, to a certain extent, indemnified
+for this by the pleasure of visiting a beautiful
+country, a remarkable people, and magnificent scenery,
+the entire appearance of which is utterly unlike what
+one is accustomed to see in the hackneyed countries
+of modern continental Europe.</p>
+<hr class='toprule' />
+<div class='chsp'>
+<span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_102' name='page_102'></a>102</span>
+<a name='ITINERARY_CARTE' id='ITINERARY_CARTE'></a>
+<h2>ITINERARY CARTE.</h2>
+</div>
+<p><span class='smcap'>Route</span>&ndash;&ndash;from London to Marseilles, about forty-eight
+hours. Marseilles, H&ocirc;tel d&rsquo;Orient.</p>
+<p>Marseilles to Algiers, average passage, three days.
+Hotels&ndash;&ndash;H&ocirc;tel de la R&eacute;gence and H&ocirc;tel de Paris,
+both good.</p>
+<p>Algiers to Blidah&ndash;&ndash;horse or diligence&ndash;&ndash;about five
+hours; Blidah to Medeah&ndash;&ndash;horse or diligence&ndash;&ndash;about
+eight hours; Blidah to Milianah, about fourteen
+hours. Blidah&ndash;&ndash;H&ocirc;tel de la R&eacute;gence;
+Medeah&ndash;&ndash;H&ocirc;tel du Gastronome; Milianah&ndash;&ndash;H&ocirc;tel
+d&rsquo;Iffly.</p>
+<p>Milianah to Teniet, two days, staying at Oued el
+Massin, caravanserai; Teniet to Boghar, two
+days; Boghar to Laghouat, extremity of French
+frontier in Great Sahara Desert, three days.</p>
+<p>From there visit Boussada for Gargelles, thence to
+Constantine, five days; Constantine to Lake Fetzara
+and Bona, one day. Bona&ndash;&ndash;H&ocirc;tel de France.</p>
+<p>Another way, is to return to Algiers and proceed by
+sea to Bona, passing Boujie, and Djidjelli, and
+Philippeville, about forty-eight hours.</p>
+<div><span class='pagenum pncolor'><a id='page_103' name='page_103'></a>103</span></div>
+<p>From Bona to Tunis, by sea, about eighteen hours;
+or by land, <i>vi&acirc;</i> Keff, the frontier town of Tunisia
+and Algeria, about six days; an escort required.
+Tunis&ndash;&ndash;H&ocirc;tel de France.</p>
+<p>Tunis to Solyman, four hours; Tunis to Biserta,
+fourteen hours.</p>
+<p>On horseback, take two flannel shirts, one change of
+boots, and bournouse, &amp;c. Average expense per
+diem, with horse and servant, twenty-five francs.
+I had three horses and one interpreter, and my
+expenses averaged &pound;1 10s. <i>par jour</i>.</p>
+<p style='font-size:1.2em; text-align:center; margin-top:3em; margin-bottom:2em;'>THE END.</p>
+<hr class='mini' />
+<p style='font-size:0.8em; text-align:center; margin-top:0; margin-bottom:5em;'>PETTER AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE PRINTING WORKS, LUDGATE HILL, E.C.</p>
+<hr class='pb' />
+<div class='trnote'>
+<p><b>Transcriber&rsquo;s Notes:</b></p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'>Illustrations have been moved closer to their relevant paragraphs.
+The page numbers in the List of Illustrations do not reflect the new
+placement of the illustrations, but are as in the original.</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'>Author&rsquo;s archaic and variable spelling and hyphenation is preserved.</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'>Author&rsquo;s punctuation style is preserved.</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'>Any missing page numbers in this HTML version refer to blank or un-numbered pages in the original.</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'>Typographical problems have been changed and these are
+<ins class="trchange" title="Was 'hgihligthed'">highlighted</ins>.</p>
+<p style='margin-top:2em;'><b>Transcriber&rsquo;s Changes:</b></p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'><a href='#toc'>Page 5</a>: Original Table of Contents lists Chapter III as page 17.</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'><a href='#TC_1'>Page 8</a>: Was &rsquo;unhapy&rsquo; (his cutting sarcasm, and the <b>unhappy</b> frivolity which defaces the works of the man)</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'><a href='#TC_2'>Page 30</a>: Was &rsquo;Kadir&rsquo; (<span class='smcap'>Further Experiences</span>:&ndash;&ndash;Abd-el-<b>Kader</b> (but not the Emir)&ndash;&ndash;Difficult Road)</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'><a href='#TC_3'>Page 33</a>: Was &rsquo;twent&rsquo; (The Arab had fired at the brute at <b>twenty</b> paces, but missed his aim.)</p>
+<p style='margin-left:1.0em'><a href='#TC_4'>Page 85</a>: Was &rsquo;mattrass&rsquo; (and the <b>mattress</b>&ndash;&ndash;fancy now!&ndash;&ndash;is stuffed with sticks, and is so cursedly hard)</p>
+</div>
+
+<!-- generated by ppg.rb version: 3.15 -->
+<!-- timestamp: Tue Nov 17 19:24:01 +0700 2009 -->
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 30581-h.htm or 30581-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/5/8/30581/
+
+Produced by Dan Horwood and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/30581-h/images/i002.jpg b/30581-h/images/i002.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ed5cab1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-h/images/i002.jpg
diff --git a/30581-h/images/i023.jpg b/30581-h/images/i023.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6f70a0a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-h/images/i023.jpg
diff --git a/30581-h/images/i049.jpg b/30581-h/images/i049.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..088af8e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-h/images/i049.jpg
diff --git a/30581-h/images/i068.jpg b/30581-h/images/i068.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5952f79
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581-h/images/i068.jpg
diff --git a/30581.txt b/30581.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4a65f00
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,2924 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Notes in North Africa
+       Being a Guide to the Sportsman and Tourist in Algeria and Tunisia
+
+Author: W. G. Windham
+
+Release Date: December 2, 2009 [EBook #30581]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Dan Horwood and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith. M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+MY TWO SERVANTS, ANGELO AND NERO.]
+
+
+
+
+ NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA:
+
+ BEING A
+ GUIDE TO THE
+ SPORTSMAN AND TOURIST IN ALGERIA AND TUNISIA.
+
+
+ BY
+ W. G. WINDHAM, ESQ.
+
+
+ NEW EDITION, WITH COLOURED ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+ LONDON:
+ WARD AND LOCK, 158 FLEET STREET.
+ 1862.
+
+
+
+
+ LONDON:
+ PETTER AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE PRINTING WORKS,
+ LUDGATE HILL, E.C.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.
+
+
+Two great faults have been found with my first edition. The first
+was, that I had offended many people by personal allusions. To
+this, I reply, that offence was very far from my mind; and to those
+offended (if any there be), I say, consider the expressions unsaid.
+For the rest, they are omitted in this edition. The second alleged
+defect is, that, while I call my book, to a certain extent, sporting,
+so little allusion is made to sport. I grant there is some reason in
+this, and accordingly I have added matter which I think will be
+useful to future sporting tourists. I would, however, not advise
+the man who seeks sport alone and solely to go to Algeria, as I am
+sure he will be disappointed, as I most decidedly was. With regard to
+the illustrations, I have taken the greatest pains that they may
+faithfully represent, not only the particular localities alluded
+to, but also give a fair idea of the country and climate of these
+latitudes.
+
+    W. G. WINDHAM.
+
+    _Hull, April, 1861._
+
+
+
+
+ILLUSTRATIONS.
+
+
+                                                TO FACE PAGE
+
+  FRONTISPIECE: MY TWO SERVANTS--ANGELO AND NERO           1
+
+  SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL
+      GREESHE                                             20
+
+  SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF
+      CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA                                44
+
+  HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA,
+      IN TUNISIA                                          60
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+     CHAPTER I.
+
+ THE VOYAGE OUT:--Paris in 1860--Notre Dame--Our
+ Hotel--Nero and the Groom--The Steamer for
+ Algeria--Gallic Peculiarities--Life on Board                   7
+
+     CHAPTER II.
+
+ DESCRIPTION OF ALGIERS:--Arrival in Algeria--Murray's
+ Guide-books, and their Amenities--Disembarkation in
+ the Port of Algiers--Our Fellow-travellers--Algiers and
+ its Inhabitants--The Dey's Palace--Cause of the French
+ Invasion                                                      13
+
+     CHAPTER III.
+
+ LIFE IN ALGIERS:--Algerian Society--A Soiree at
+ General Martinprez's--The Sirocco--My Maltese
+ Companion--The Theatre--General Youssouf and his Career       19
+
+     CHAPTER IV.
+
+ "UP THE COUNTRY:"--Departure from Algiers--Blidah--The
+ Zouave Officers and their Companions--Government
+ Establishment of Horses--Joseph, the Horse-dealer--To
+ Arbah--The Caravanserai--Journey towards Oued-el-Massin       25
+
+     CHAPTER V.
+
+ FURTHER EXPERIENCES:--Abd-el-Kader (but not the
+ Emir)--Difficult Road--Perils of the Way--Prospect of
+ Sport--The First Boar--The Chasseurs d'Afrique--Mine
+ Hostess of the "Scorpion"--Teniet                             30
+
+     CHAPTER VI.
+
+ FURTHER PROGRESS--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES:--Cold
+ Weather--Milianah--Vezoul--The Aubergiste--El
+ Afroun--The Rhamazan--Dancing Dervishes                       36
+
+     CHAPTER VII.
+
+ BONA AND ITS VICINITY:--Passage to Bona--State of
+ Affairs on Board--Bona--The Lake Metitza--Ain
+ Mokra--Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake                         41
+
+     CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ ON TO TUNIS:--Algeria in General--The Arabs and their
+ Conquerors--Antagonism between the Two Races--Social
+ Condition of the Arabs--The _Oasis_ Steamer--Arrival
+ at Tunis                                                      46
+
+     CHAPTER IX.
+
+ MARSA:--Angelo's Horsemanship--The Bey's Palace at
+ Marsa--The Arabs and their Love of Tobacco--The
+ Friendly Moor at Camatte                                      52
+
+     CHAPTER X.
+
+ ABOUT BOAR SHOOTING:--Sleeman--the Oued el Ahwena--Its
+ Scenery, and its Dangers--Beauty of the Landscape on
+ its Banks                                                     55
+
+     CHAPTER XI.
+
+ SPORTING EXPERIENCES:--El Greesh--Shooting Hyenas--An
+ Expedition with the Arabs--The Caid and his
+ Family--Another Wild Boar                                     59
+
+     CHAPTER XII.
+
+ TUNIS AND ITS GOVERNMENT:--Picturesque Situation of
+ Tunis--The Horse Market--Effects of Race--The
+ Bazaars--Mohamed Medea--The Bardo--The Bey of
+ Tunis--His Mode of administering Justice--Prince
+ Puckler Muskau's Account of his Interview                     62
+
+     CHAPTER XIII.
+
+ THE RUINS OF CARTHAGE:--Reflections on Ancient
+ Carthage--Hannibal and his Career--An Arab
+ Domicile--Picturesque Appearance of the Ruins                 69
+
+     CHAPTER XIV.
+
+ THE RUINS AGAIN:--Great Extent of the Ancient City
+ Marsa, on the Sea-shore--Carthaginian Catacombs near
+ Camatte--Quail Shooting--Trait of Honesty in the
+ Arabs--The Arab Character--Anecdotes concerning them          76
+
+     CHAPTER XV.
+
+ HOME:--My Fellow-passenger, the Sportsman--Passage from
+ Tunis to Malta in a Sailing Vessel--Disagreeables of
+ the Passage--Home Overland--Conclusion                        83
+
+ NOTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN OR TOURIST IN NORTH AFRICA            88
+
+
+
+
+NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+THE VOYAGE OUT.
+
+  Paris in 1860.--Notre Dame.--Our Hotel.--Nero and the Groom.--The
+  Steamer for Algeria.--Gallic Peculiarities.--Life on Board.
+
+
+_In medias res._ I will not stop to describe my journey to Paris, _via_
+Folkestone, nor to chronicle the glasses of pale ale--valedictory
+libations to _perfide_ Albion, quaffed at the Pavilion--nor to
+portray the sea-sickness of "mossoo," nor the withering indignation of
+the British female when her wardrobe was searched. Briefly, kind reader,
+be pleased to understand that we arrived in safety--guns, rifles,
+"and all"--at the Hotel du Louvre, in Paris, at about eleven o'clock
+on a certain day in February, 1860.
+
+The next day was Sunday, and I went to hear vespers at Notre Dame. How
+I love the old gothic cathedrals, that seem to remove one at once from
+this work-day world--the fanes wherein the very air seems redolent of
+devotion, and peopled with phantoms of the past! 'Spite of all
+disparagement, there is something grand and solemn about them. After
+service, I ascended one of the towers to the gallery immortalised by
+Victor Hugo's wonderful romance. The day was declining, and sunset had
+already commenced. The galleries were crowded with students and
+respectable operatives and _bourgeois_, with their wives and children.
+Every face was bathed in the purple light of the departing sun, and
+many eyes lifted up in silent meditation.
+
+I was aroused from the reverie into which the contemplation of this
+glorious sight had thrown me, by hearing a female voice exclaim, "How
+beautiful is Nature--how magnificent!" I turned, and saw two ladies,
+evidently mother and daughter, of sufficiently pleasing appearance. It
+was from the elder that the exclamation had come, which brought me
+back from my dream to this nether world. Conquering the shyness which
+appears to be the Englishman's birthright, I made some remark on the
+beauties of sunset. Like the earth, we revolved round the sun; but,
+unlike that planet, we quickly diverged into other orbits. I dimly
+remember that we talked of Angola cats, Dresden china, Turkish
+chibouques, maccaroni, and Lord Byron, with whose poems this lady
+seemed sufficiently familiar. I improved the occasion, as the right
+thing to do, when talking with ladies about Byron, to find fault with
+his impiety, his blasphemous scepticism, his cutting sarcasm, and the
+unhappy frivolity which defaces the works of the man, who, with all
+his faults, was undoubtedly the greatest poet the nineteenth century
+has yet produced.
+
+A pleasant walk along the quays brought me back to my hotel, in the
+courtyard of which establishment I found an admiring circle of idlers
+surrounding my English groom, who had just arrived with my dog Nero;
+or rather Nero, who seemed by far the most popular character of the
+two, had just arrived with him; and both appeared to know about as
+much French one as the other, and to make themselves equally
+understood or misunderstood. That evening, my friend and travelling
+companion, B---- and I dined at Dotesio's, in the Rue Castiglione,
+where we had an excellent dinner, washed down by more excellent wine.
+The next day found us at Marseilles, at the Hotel D'Orient, concerning
+which hostelry I have merely to place on record the fact, that B----
+was mulcted in the sum of five francs for the matutinal cold tub in
+which it was his custom to indulge.
+
+The steamer which was to convey us to Algeria was well fitted up in
+every way. We were the only Englishmen on board. The fore part of the
+deck was crowded with Zouaves and French soldiers of various
+denominations, with whom Nero soon made himself perfectly at home,
+though the exclamation of a Zouave on his first appearance seemed to
+forbode but an indifferent reception for the four-footed intruder.
+"_Cre nom d'un chien_" cried the shaven, fez-capped warrior, "_mais
+je ne t'aimerais pas pour mon camarade du lit!_"
+
+Breakfast was served in French fashion on board at ten o'clock, and
+dinner at five. With one or two exceptions, the company consisted of
+French commercial travellers, and they were split up into the usual
+hostile factions of north against south. North, of course, commenced
+the conversation with Paris, _Paris_, and again PAR-RRI; the
+southerners every now and then throwing in a doubt of the universal
+superiority of the metropolis over the known world. One disputant
+stood out for Marseilles, another broke a lance for Bordeaux, and the
+war of words waxed so fierce that I began to tremble for the
+consequences. One young man in company had been some time at Bordeaux,
+and had much to say thereon; but all his remarks were on one
+subject--the theatre. On its beauty, its luxury, and its actresses, he
+held forth at unwearied but wearisome length.
+
+While this conversation was going on, the inner man was by no
+means neglected. Stewed pullets, potatoes, salad, and etceteras,
+disappeared with marvellous celerity. The cheer was by no means
+bad, though decidedly Provencal, as I remarked to my next neighbour,
+a dark-looking Marsellais; which observation, by the way, brought
+down upon me the anger of the Gods, as impersonated by a large, fat,
+dirty Calaisien, sitting opposite. He was a big man, this champion,
+and, according to Cervantes, should, by consequence, have been a
+good-natured one. Giving himself a sounding blow on the chest for
+emphasis, he declared the Calaisiens to be an infinitely more moral
+people than the Marseillais--and washed down his own dictum with an
+enormous glass of _biere blanche_. I am rather fond of going to sleep
+after dinner; so I secured my nap on cheap terms, by feigning an
+interest in the Picard virtues, and accordingly enjoyed a profound
+rest, disturbed only at intervals by a monotonous and expostulatory
+"_allons donc!_" thrown in by another dissentient southerner. He
+was an enormously fat man, the new disputant, and wore a mass of very
+greasy hair, hanging down over his shoulders. His flannel shirt, an
+exceedingly dingy specimen of British manufacture, did duty for a
+waistcoat also; but he was _decore_, though it was very doubtful to
+what order the medal on his breast may have belonged.
+
+Our captain merits a word of description. He was a short, red-faced
+individual, of such ineffable seediness, as regarded costume, that I
+should never have suspected his station but for the fact that he
+sported a gold band "_bien usite_" round his cap, and sat at the head
+of the table. For the credit of French politeness be it, however,
+added, he was a perfect gentleman in his behaviour throughout the
+voyage. There was also a young French naval officer, whom I afterwards
+got to know much better in Algeria. He, too, like all the Legitimists,
+was a most finished gentleman, and spoke English well--a common
+accomplishment among the officers of the French navy. Though quite a
+young fellow, he had been in the Russian and Chinese wars, and
+imparted some very amusing and instructive intelligence on both these
+subjects.
+
+As the noise and the intimacy at the table increased, and the punch
+and cognac had already "chased" the wine, I adjourned with B---- and
+the French sailor to the after-deck, and, in company with two young
+Dutch travellers, smoked our Havanas in a climate that was already
+African in its heat, while Majorca and Minorca faded away in the
+distance, and the pale moon rose silently over the quiet sea.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+DESCRIPTION OF ALGIERS.
+
+  Arrival in Algeria.--Murray's Guide-books, and their
+  Amenities.--Disembarkation in the Port of Algiers.--Our
+  Fellow-travellers.--Algiers and its Inhabitants.--The Dey's
+  Palace.--Cause of the French Invasion.
+
+
+Next morning, at eight o'clock, came the waiter with the
+intelligence--"_Nous sommes dans la baie d'Alger, monsieur, a une
+heure de la ville._" My desire to see Algiers was vehement indeed; but
+scarcely less strong was the craving of the inner man for bread and
+coffee. With the nectar of Arabia, however, the inspiration of the
+Orient seemed to percolate my veins; but when a fragrant glass of
+cognac crowned the meal, the aroma of the East enveloped me, the
+delicious strains of Bulbul rang in my ears, the Calaisien and the
+Marseillais, sitting stolidly before me, became straightway
+transformed into camels, the stewardess into a houri, and the noses of
+the passengers were as masques in my enraptured sight.
+
+But the book at my side was not the Koran, though it might have been,
+for the strange farrago it contained.
+
+It was a celebrated traveller's manual in the English language, and
+in red binding. The king of the Cannibal Islands has not in his
+library a more absurd volume than this manual; for in its pages
+pathetic bagmen give vent to their ludicrous ebullitions concerning
+the Alhambra, or the Rhine, or any foreign lion you please to name;
+and young boys just escaped from school dish up their first
+impressions of the Continent in a style as savoury as the flavour of a
+Spanish olla podrida. And yet, ascend the Rhine, go to Venice or to
+St. Petersburg, and ten to one for the chance, that when you meet an
+Englishman he will have that eternal manual clutched in his British
+grasp.
+
+Oh, my dear and well-beloved countrymen, what creatures of fashion and
+precedent we all are, from high to low! What one does, the rest must
+do; and in the self-same manner. I verily believe, if the late Albert
+Smith had left it on record that, in ascending Mont Blanc, he planted
+his foot in a certain hole in the snow, every one of his successors in
+that glorious undertaking would have paid their guides an extra dollar
+for indicating to them the identical cavity, that they might go and do
+likewise. Thank goodness, Algeria is as yet encumbered by no manual or
+"Hand-book," as our modern Germanised phraseology elects to call the
+egregious productions; so shall we travellers be at liberty to follow
+our own noses, to go exactly where we like, and to do what we please,
+even to dressing like Arabs, should the whim seize us. Moreover, we
+may do in Rome as Rome does, and enjoy a French breakfast washed down
+with good wine in lieu of bad tea, without having ourselves or our
+proceedings stigmatised as "shocking," as would undoubtedly be our lot
+at Paris, or Brussels, or Berlin.
+
+Behold us, then, in happy hour, ready to disembark in Algiers, with
+the children of the desert thronging on board to act as porters. Their
+appearance pleases me much, as they come forward, with their tall,
+striking figures, dark eyes, and distinguished mien. "Perfect
+gentlemen, these," said I to myself; but beneath the outside crust
+little remains that can be called gratifying. These men are like the
+apple of Sodom; at least, so I thought on landing, after a long
+squabble with them respecting the passage money, carried on in bad
+Italian and French. A nearer acquaintance with them may, perhaps,
+modify my views on this subject.
+
+"Well, it has been a pleasant time on board the packet," is my parting
+reflection as I step ashore; nor shall I lightly forget the captain,
+so different in his politeness and urbanity from the sea-bear with
+whom I sailed in the North Sea; nor the honest Hamburgher, who
+appeared to have an equally beloved wife in every land and in every
+place we came to; nor the would-be dandy, who lit cigars innumerable,
+and invariably flung them overboard after the first puff; nor the
+priests, who seemed to possess the gift of invisibility, so rarely did
+they show themselves; nor the hundred thousand events and personages
+that flash upon our path for a moment on our journey through life, and
+then linger in the memory only as the dim phantoms of a dream that has
+passed away.
+
+Algiers, seen from the sea, presents the appearance of a vast
+triangular cone, situated on the slope of a mountain. Like all the
+inhabitants of Northern Africa, the Algerians were at an early period
+Christians, and it was only after several battles that the Mahometan
+religion was finally established all over the coast of Barbary. Before
+the French occupation, the Algerian ladies, like the females in all
+Mussulmen countries, were kept in the strictest seclusion. The wife of
+a rich Moor never left her home except to go to the baths, and even
+that expedition was undertaken only at night. When it became
+absolutely necessary that ladies should go abroad in daylight, their
+faces were covered, and the whole figure so concealed by a redundancy
+of wrappings, that a stranger would be puzzled to find out what the
+moving bundles were. The luxury of the bath is greatly used by them.
+There are public as well as private baths. They consist of three
+apartments. The first is a large hall, for dressing and undressing; in
+the second, the visitors perspire; and the third is for bathing
+proper, or otherwise, as tastes and opinions somewhat differ. After
+the bath, those of the male sex repair to the first room for lemonade
+or coffee, or for a pipe. The modern Mahometan ladies of Algiers have
+almost abandoned this seclusion. They are seen gadding about
+everywhere, and are reported as being by no means particular or
+difficult in their conquests. French ideas and morals have percolated
+them considerably. Excessive obesity is regarded among Mahometans as
+the perfection of beauty; so that, instead of using powders and other
+nostrums to reduce themselves, like some of my friends at home, they
+devour seeds and _couscous_, the national dish, especially employed
+for fattening people. Some young ladies are crammed to such a degree
+that they die under the operation.
+
+On a fine, hot day in February, 1860, I mounted the conical hill on
+which Algiers is built. The weather was magnificent. The sun of Africa
+already made his approach felt, and the mountains in the far horizon
+stood out like _bas-reliefs_ against the azure sky. Here stood the
+palace of the Dey before the French occupation. The building is now
+called the _casbah_, and used as a large barrack; outside are the
+Moorish houses, and the chief part of the Moorish population.
+
+The cause of quarrel between France and Algeria, which resulted in the
+conquest of the country by the Gallic legions was as follows:--The
+Dey, a pasha of the old Turkish school, was, it appears, a potentate
+of extravagant disposition, and owed the French Government a
+considerable sum of money. The creditors, being in a hurry for their
+cash, dunned the Dey incessantly, through the agency of their consul.
+Unaccustomed to the eagerness of French importunity, the Dey, on one
+unlucky occasion, made a gesture of impatience with his fan, as a man
+might do with his riding-whip, if his tailor became too pressing for
+the settlement of his account. It proved an expensive gesture,
+however; for within a few weeks it brought 10,000 French soldiers to
+the shores of the Dey, and cost him his entire realm. The bulk of the
+Mauresque and Turkish population quitted Algeria with their families
+on the arrival of the French. Those who remain are the poorer classes,
+and now live, if report speaks true, in an immoral state. These events
+took place in the reign of that peaceful monarch, Louis Philippe.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+LIFE IN ALGIERS.
+
+  Algerian Society.--A _Soiree_ at General Martinprez's.--The
+  Sirocco.--My Maltese Companion.--The Theatre.--General Youssouf
+  and Career.
+
+
+I have described Algiers as being built on the side of a mountain.
+The city possesses a commodious and safe harbour, where flutter
+the colours of every nation, from the red flag of the Swede to
+the Spaniard's yellow ensign. Economy of space being a primary
+consideration in the laying out of the city, the houses have been
+built very high, and the streets made very narrow, so that there
+is no room for carriages. The Consul has a very fine Mauresque
+house in the old Turkish quarter, where he invited me to dinner and
+a _soiree_ the day after my arrival; and the next day I was invited
+to the reception of the Governor, General Martinprez.
+
+The General received me and my companions most graciously, and, after
+keeping me in conversation for about five minutes, introduced me to
+his lady, a very pleasing person. My friend A---- and I were then
+introduced to two or three other fashionable ladies of Algiers; and,
+engrossed in conversation with these; we strangers were unconscious
+of a general movement of the gentlemen towards the farther end of the
+room, as a preliminary to the amateur concert. I was quite ignorant of
+this Algerian regulation, by which the gentlemen and ladies are
+separated as effectually as in a Lutheran church (a fashion,
+by-the-bye, we appear to be adopting). Accordingly, on looking up, I
+observed, to my infinite chagrin, that I was the "observed of all
+observers," and probably was set down as a _bete Anglais_, who knew no
+better. The extensive crinoline of the ladies effectually prevented a
+retreat in any direction, and I was unpleasantly conscious of the
+suppressed titter the fair ones tried to conceal behind their fans. I
+endeavoured to summon up all the resources of my London phlegm, to
+support me in this ridiculous position; but, unfortunately, I possess
+very little of that desirable quality. The fair one with whom I was
+conversing evidently felt for the unpleasantness of my situation, and
+very good-naturedly kept me talking till the end of the first piece,
+when I succeeded in making my escape.
+
+How I inwardly abused the opera they were performing! It was called
+"_Le Diable_;" and to me it appeared as though the fiend in question
+had no tail--or rather, _no end_--to that appendage, so long did the
+time seem. Far be it from me to despise the arts; I admire them in
+every shape, except in the compound form of speech: _exempli gratia_,
+art-union, art-school, &c. Why, in the name of common sense, can we
+not talk English instead of German, and say school of arts, union of
+arts, &c.? I suppose we shall soon go a step farther in imitation of
+our Germanic neighbours, and call poetry by the appellation of
+poet-art. In the last century, it seemed likely, as Johnson said, that
+we should babble a dialect of France; in this, there is more danger of
+our talking a Teutonic jargon. Let us stick to the middle course--for
+our language is essentially half way between the German and the
+French, the Teutonic and Romance tongues, and any attempt to
+approximate too much to either extreme is simply preposterous.
+
+The next day we had the sirocco; and, to quote the expression with
+which I once heard a popular preacher commence a sermon, it was
+"d----d hot." Start not, ladies of Belgravia, for the preacher in
+question belonged not to the Anglican communion; he held forth to mere
+vulgar audiences, at least, in a remote locality. Thrice he repeated
+the expression (which I will not), and then improved the occasion by
+describing a place hotter than the crowded chapel in which he was
+officiating, in the month of July. He was evidently in his element. He
+was especially hot against those modern spirits, who are not such
+faithful believers in the burning flames of the lower regions, and
+even begin to imagine they may have cooled down, if they have not been
+quite extinguished. "And if"--he cried, in his ardour--"if they were
+on the point of being extinguished, I would with my own breath
+rekindle the expiring flame!" And his voice, which sounded like a gale
+of wind, and his face, red as a furnace, and his enormous fists
+fiercely clenched, made it appear to the congregation, for the moment,
+that this terrifying assertion was no exaggeration. But to return to
+the sirocco.
+
+In spite, or rather by reason of the heat, I went for a stroll on the
+sea-shore with Nero, that we might cool our wearied limbs in the azure
+wave of the Mediterranean. We had been walking along the shore for
+about a mile, when about twenty Arab dogs rushed out most ferociously
+at Nero, and would, I believe, have torn him to pieces, but for the
+large hunting-whip with which I managed to keep them at bay. There was
+with me a young Maltese boy, of Irish parentage--a most amusing
+character this urchin was. He wanted me to take him into the interior
+as my interpreter. "Take me wid you, sir," was his eloquent appeal;
+"give me pound a month, sir; tell Arabs you brother of Queen Victoria,
+sir; Arabs great fools, sir; know no better, sir;" but I was proof
+against the voice of the charmer.
+
+In returning, I met General Martinprez on horseback, and saluted; of
+course, he returned my greeting most graciously. But I was not a
+little amused, and could hardly help laughing, when the young
+Hiberno-Maltese tatterdemalion took off his dirty cap with a flourish
+to the General, simultaneously with my salute, as if he had been my
+confidential friend, taking a promenade with me.
+
+That evening I went to the theatre. The piece performed was "_Les
+Femmes Terribles_"--and a terribly Gallic flavour there was diffused
+over the whole performance--a kind of _haut gout_, for which we stolid
+islanders have, happily, no relish.
+
+General Youssouf was at the theatre this evening. He is rather a
+fine-looking man, and not too stout. His is a curious history.
+Originally a Christian slave at Tunis, supposed to be the son of
+Italian parents, he received the name of Youssouf (Joseph) from his
+Mussulman masters at Tunis, where he was employed in the Bey's palace.
+Of fine stature and handsome appearance, the Christian slave soon
+attracted the notice of the Bey's daughter, an honour to which he was
+not insensible. The Bey was soon informed of what was going on, and
+Joseph would have been caged, if not racked, had not some kind friend
+apprised him of the discovery, and of his own consequent danger. A
+French man-of-war happened to be in the harbour at La Goeletta, off
+Tunis, and young Youssouf, then about twenty years of age, managed to
+effect his escape on board. The Franks, of course, gladly received him
+as an escaped Christian slave. The Bey sent to demand him back; but
+the French commander gave him politely to understand that he would see
+the Bey experiencing the reverse of the joys of Paradise before he
+would comply with such a request. The vessel set sail next day for
+Algiers, where the Gallic occupation had just commenced. Young
+Youssouf--who, in addition to his knowledge of French and Italian,
+could, of course, speak Arabic perfectly--was here landed, and became
+interpreter to a foot regiment. Quick and clever, he was soon
+promoted, till he attained an officer's rank. He is now a general in
+the service. Entertaining--perhaps naturally--a mortal hatred of the
+Arabs, he has generally been selected to enforce those stern acts of
+reprisal against the native population, which, though perhaps
+justified by necessity, still bear the impress of great severity, and
+are unpalatable to officers of French birth and education. These
+measures he has always carried out with strict fidelity and
+unrelenting harshness. He was the centre of attraction this
+evening--every battery of eyes was turned upon him. He had fought a
+duel with the editor of a newspaper, only that morning, for abusing
+him or his wife, and had succeeded in running the journalist through
+the shoulder.
+
+The next few days I was engaged in making purchases, chiefly of shot
+and necessary travelling articles, for the interior. I was swimming my
+dog in the water of the port, according to my daily custom, when I
+stumbled on my servant, Angelo, whom I determined to take with me into
+the interior. Besides English, which he spoke very well, he could talk
+Arabic quite fluently, and I found him very useful.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+"UP THE COUNTRY."
+
+  Departure from Algiers.--Blidah.--The Zouave Officers and their
+  Companions.--Government Establishment of Horses.--Joseph, the
+  Horse-dealer.--To Arbah.--The Caravanserai.--Journey towards
+  Oued-el-Massin.
+
+
+On Thursday, March 8th, after seeing A---- start, by diligence, with
+innumerable bags of cheviotine (deer-shot), I and Angelo left Algiers
+with my newly-purchased horses, and, passing through some very pretty
+country, stopped at the first village, where De Warn, a French
+officer, came up on horseback, with his groom. He admired my horses
+very much, and announced his destination to be the Maison Carree,
+where he was going to shoot quails, a friend of his having bagged
+forty there in one afternoon. It came on to rain very hard as we
+passed through the plain of the Medidja, and arrived at Bouffaseh,
+where there is a column raised to the memory of twenty-three men
+killed there during the war. We galloped in to Blidah, the rain
+pouring down on us. At dinner, I met A---- in a _cafe_, with Count
+L'Esparre and three or four officers of the 1st Regiment of Zouaves.
+They were a very pleasant set of fellows, but did not appear to admire
+their remote quarters at Blidah by any means. The heat, during the
+height of summer, they informed me, was terrific, and the private
+soldiers are not allowed to quit their quarters between 10 A.M. and 5
+P.M. during the four hottest months of the year. We drank unlimited
+punch to the "Alliance," and, on returning to the hotel, after a
+mutual exchange of good wishes, we found familiar faces--belonging to
+the Dutchmen who had travelled with us from Marseilles to Algiers.
+
+I went with Count L'Esparre to see the Government establishment of
+horses. There were some very fine creatures of Arab breed; also some
+Persian horses which had been presented by the Shah of Persia. We then
+started on horseback for Medea, and on my way passed the "Grotto of
+Monkeys," but none of the animals from which the grotto takes its name
+met my inquiring gaze. The Rocher Pourri, which I also passed on my
+way, had just acquired an additional but a lugubrious celebrity, an
+Arab having killed a Frenchman there the day before. We rode on to
+Medea through a rattling snow-storm, and arrived properly powdered at
+the Hotel du Gastronome, where they made us comfortable enough. Medea
+is built in a very elevated situation, among the mountains, and must
+be a very cold place.
+
+On the next day, Saturday, it was still snowing hard. A---- had to
+provide himself with a horse, and we were afterwards both engaged,
+with Angelo, my Maltese servant, looking for mules to carry our
+baggage to Teniet. At the hotel, there was a very celebrated picture
+by Horace Vernet, for which one of the Dutchmen offered a thousand
+francs, but the offer was declined by Madame Gerard. In my opinion,
+the picture was far from being a masterpiece.
+
+Rising early on Sunday, I was immediately pounced upon by a set of
+Arabs, who had engaged to take our luggage, and to whom we had paid a
+deposit in advance. They now refused to take our luggage at five
+francs per day, the sum agreed upon, unless we retained their valuable
+services all the time we remained at Teniet, which, of course, we
+never contemplated doing. I demanded back the deposit, but they would
+not give it up. On going to the Bureau Arabe, we found it closed, and
+the Commandant de Ville, to whom some officers recommended us to
+apply, was gone to Blidah, so there was nothing for it but to invoke
+the aid of Joseph, a French horse-dealer, who engaged to take our
+effects on two mules to Teniet at seven and a half francs per mule per
+day, we paying the return journey. After all, we could not manage to
+get off until one o'clock in the day. Joseph accompanied us as far as
+Lodi, to indicate the route to the caravanserai of Arbah, where we
+were to stay for the night. The good horse-dealer insisted on our
+taking two or three _petits verres_ on the road. A terrible fellow he
+was for "nips," that Joseph.
+
+The road to Arbah lay across a very barren, desert, mountainous
+country, with splendid views over the whole Atlas range, as far as
+Mostaganem, now covered with snow. We passed one or two Arab villages,
+and had great difficulty in finding our way, on account of the number
+of roads that branched off right and left. On the journey we passed a
+very fine house belonging to a rich Arab chief. We were sorely tempted
+to turn in here, but refrained, and arriving at the caravanserai at
+about seven o'clock, found a party of French officers just sitting
+down to dinner. They very politely invited us to join them.
+
+The caravanserai is a Government establishment. In form it resembles a
+large farm yard, entirely walled in and crenellated. It has stalls for
+horses, and good accommodation for European travellers. A large fair
+is held here every Wednesday, chiefly for the sale of native horses.
+We had a long and interesting talk with the officers, and then retired
+to bed, but not to sleep, for our baggage had not arrived, and the
+bitter cold kept us in a state of enforced watchfulness.
+
+Before breakfast, next day, I walked out on a tour of inspection
+through the neighbourhood. The caravanserai is situated almost in the
+desert; and very cold and barren are its surroundings. During
+breakfast, we were rejoiced by the arrival of our baggage, and at once
+started for Ouad-el-Massin. There is a very grand sensation of
+solitude and silence in riding through these vast plains. The weather
+was still tremendously cold and rainy. I managed to shoot two
+partridges as we came along.
+
+A chapter of accidents now began. My Maltese servant had been mistaken
+concerning the capacity of our mules; for they broke down, and we were
+obliged to leave them behind. Then my horse, an exceedingly vicious
+brute, nearly succeeded in appropriating a piece of Angelo's shoulder,
+as the latter stooped to tighten the girths. I found afterwards that
+my steed had a very bad character all over the country; his ill fame,
+however, was slightly redeemed by the fact that he was a good goer.
+Then we missed our way among the mountains, and with difficulty
+succeeded, just as it was getting dark, in reaching a small house at
+Guebla, kept by a Frenchman. The proprietor received us very
+hospitably, and gave us all the accommodation he could: it was of
+rather a limited character, inasmuch as we all slept together in the
+small room where we dined and breakfasted. Our host informed us that
+there were a great number of lions in the neighbourhood. He had
+himself been surprised by one, just after dusk, on the road from
+Milianca, and offered to induce the Caid of the adjoining tribe to get
+up a battue on our return. He also spoke of the great number of wild
+boars in a way that would make a hunter's heart leap within him. We
+retired to rest, and, sheltered for the nonce from the searching cold,
+I slept as only a weary traveller can.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+FURTHER EXPERIENCES.
+
+  Abd-el-Kader (but not the Emir).--Difficult Road.--Perils of the
+  Way.--Prospect of Sport.--The First Boar.--The Chasseurs
+  d'Afrique.--Mine Hostess of the "Scorpion."--Teniet.
+
+
+In the hope of obtaining some reliable information as to hunting
+prospects, I had in the Caid's lieutenant a fine-looking fellow,
+rejoicing in the famous name of Abd-el-Kader, though he was no
+relation to the renowned chief. He gave a long description of the
+capture of a boar, that had been wounded by some Arabs; how he caught
+the brute by the hoofs, gagged it, and brought it home alive. Mr.
+----, he also informed us, had been surprised, about a month before,
+by a lion, as he was returning at dusk from Milianah. There were many
+lions in the vicinity, he added; and promised that his friend the Caid
+should treat us to a lion-hunt on our return, if we came back this
+way.
+
+Then we started, Abd-el-Kader accompanying us to show us a short
+way over the mountains to the caravanserai of Oued-el-Massin, where
+we were to pass the night, and expected to find our luggage. We
+were prepared to find the river very high, and our anticipations were
+not deceived. Abd-el-Kader admonished me to wait on the bank while
+he went in to try if there was any getting through. He returned and
+asked if my horse was good, and if I was willing to follow him. On
+receiving my affirmative answer, he told me to fix my eyes on the
+opposite shore, and, above all things, to abstain from looking at
+the water, which was tearing along at a tremendous rate; if I
+neglected his instructions, I should infallibly be carried away and
+drowned. I started, and, by dint of spurring, managed to get
+across, though my horse plunged up to his shoulder, and at one
+moment I thought I was a "gone coon." Abd-el-Kader, the undaunted,
+then went back once more for the second horse, which he dragged
+across in due time by the bridle. Then he pointed out to us the road
+over the mountain to Oued-el-Massin; nor did he think it derogatory to
+his dignity to accept a reward for the trouble he had taken on our
+behalf.
+
+In spite of the valiant lieutenant's directions, the road was a very
+difficult one to find. After wandering about in the forest through a
+number of out-of-the-way paths, we managed at last to stumble on an
+Arab house or two, where the promise of a supply of powder prevailed
+with an Arab, and he piloted us down to the caravanserai, where we
+arrived at about six P.M., wet to the skin, and weary with a most
+fatiguing day's march. We found our luggage had preceded us by about
+half an hour; so we had a change of clothes, and sat down gleefully to
+a capital dinner in very comfortable quarters. These caravanserais are
+a famous institution. They are built by the French Government for the
+convenience of travellers, and are very well organised. Each one is
+under the superintendence of a Frenchman, and has one part devoted to
+Europeans and another to Arabs. We had an excellent sitting-room and
+bed-room to ourselves, and, as may be supposed, were exceedingly
+comfortable.
+
+Wednesday, the 14th of March, was ushered in by a pouring rain; and we
+received the agreeable intelligence that the river between this and
+our next station was perfectly impassable; so we made up our minds to
+stay where we were. There was some consolation in the thought that
+Joseph, the exceedingly keen horse-dealer at Medea, will not be
+entitled to charge extra for the delay to his mules, he having bound
+himself, by solemn covenant, to deliver the baggage safely at Teniet
+for a certain stipulated sum.
+
+After breakfast I walked into the forest which surrounds the
+caravanserai on all sides, and shot two or three brace of red-legged
+partridges and a woodcock. I saw the traces of several wild boars;
+they were evidently quite recent; also a wretched porcupine the Arabs
+had killed.
+
+In the course of the day the Arabs brought in a boar which they had
+killed in the morning. They threw the entrails outside the house, and,
+during the night, quite an army of jackals came down to devour them.
+It was so dark that we could not get a shot at these African
+scavengers, though I sallied out once or twice after them.
+
+It rained all night, so that going on was out of the question, from
+the swollen state of the river; so I walked off before breakfast, with
+Angelo, to an Arab village, about a mile and a half distant, to
+inquire about boars. The promise of some powder brought out the
+inhabitants; and, after a little banter and chaffing, they agreed to
+meet me after breakfast, and to show me one of those animals. So I
+returned to the caravanserai to breakfast, and then, with my friend,
+rode back to the Arab huts. We left our horses at the village, and
+proceeded to climb a horribly steep hill in company with some of the
+natives, to whom I had promised tobacco-money, on condition of being
+brought face to face with a boar. After some tremendously steep
+climbing, we came upon a number of recent tracks, one of which B----
+followed with his Arab, while I remained in another gorge. Presently I
+heard a shot fired, about a mile off; and, on returning to where the
+horses were tethered, I found that B---- and his Arab had succeeded in
+discovering a boar. The Arab had fired at the brute at twenty paces,
+but missed his aim. It was now past five o'clock, so we returned to
+the caravanserai to dinner. Some Chasseurs d'Afrique had arrived in
+the interim. Their captain joined us in our room, and promised us an
+escort for the morrow. He was from Boulogne-sur-Mer, and spoke English
+pretty well. He told us we should have to start at six in the morning
+to cross the river.
+
+Accordingly, next morning the Frenchman set out at six o'clock with
+his troops and traps, leaving a dragoon behind as an escort for us,
+but with the important qualification that the man might only stay one
+hour behind the rest, as he must be present on the arrival of the
+troop at Teniet. "_Et maintenant_," quoth this bold warrior, "_je vais
+me servir d'un peu de votre tabac, s'il vous plait, car je vois que
+votre blague est bien garni;_" and, filling his pipe, he vanished,
+with a polite "_Au revoir, messieurs_!"
+
+Feeling too tired to rise at seven for the sake of escort, especially
+as we had not a very long journey before us, I remained comfortably
+for breakfast, and B---- started alone. After a good meal, I set out
+with Angelo, and we forced our way through a densely-wooded country,
+till we came upon the obstacle which had lost us two days--the river
+Klebah. This stream we managed with some difficulty to cross; a
+Frenchman, who emerged from the auberge on the other side, assisting
+us, by his advice, as to the best spot to choose for our passage.
+B---- and the trooper had just finished breakfast in the auberge, and
+departed. The landlady of the "Scorpion," a very chatty and amusing
+personage, insisted upon it that I was a German. She favoured me with
+a sporting anecdote, setting forth how she had killed three rabbits
+during an expedition to pick some rose laurier on the hills. As the
+bunnies popped their noses out of their holes, she had managed to pop
+them off with the branches. As this was the only house to be met with
+on that day's journey, I halted there for half an hour. Mine hostess
+related how an "English milord" had stayed there for six months with
+his wife, in a tent, without even a servant--"_Qu'ils sont droles ces
+Anglais!_" was the landlady's final comment; and it was not for me to
+contradict the oft-repeated sentiment.
+
+Through a mountainous and most barren country, amid a pelting
+snow-storm, we wended onwards to Teniet. In my way from El Massin to
+the "Scorpion," I might almost have knocked over several partridges
+with my whip, so close did they come; but here there were none to be
+seen, nor was there any cover that might shelter them. At a miserable
+auberge called "_les Cedres_," I found B----.
+
+The fort at Teniet is a fine edifice, in a commanding position. I went
+up and left my letter of introduction for Captain Camatte, who gave us
+very small hope of sport. He did not seem very keen on the subject,
+and advised us to try some other place, offering to give us
+recommendations, &c. I returned to a most miserable room, where we
+could hardly sit, so much were we annoyed by the smoke from the fire;
+we could scarcely decide which was hardest to bear, the smoke within,
+or the cold without. With a hearty laugh at the absurdity of coming to
+such a place as Teniet in search of game, and with a determination to
+set out on our return the next day, we betook ourselves to an early
+bed.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+FURTHER PROGRESS.--RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES.
+
+  Cold Weather.--Milianah.--Vezoul.--The Aubergiste.--El Afroun.--The
+  Rhamazan.--Dancing Dervishes.
+
+
+In order to avoid the trouble of carrying our ammunition back with us,
+we sold the greater portion of it. The snow lay four or five inches
+deep in the road; we sent to the commandant to procure us mules and
+other necessaries, and set out, with a snow-storm beating down upon
+us, and the cold as sharp as it well could be. At the "Scorpion" we
+refreshed ourselves with coffee, and then re-crossed the river, which
+was scarcely fordable; we got to El Massin about six o'clock; the
+brigadier told us he had shot a hyena. Some capital wild boar they
+gave us for dinner, seemed to be an earnest of our return to sporting
+latitudes. At half-past seven next morning, we emerged from the
+caravanserai. The weather seemed at last, after a long season of
+inclemency, to have set in for heat. "_Le temps s'est remis a neuf_,"
+observed Mr. Ball; and it had changed with a vengeance, so far as the
+temperature was concerned. Terribly hot we found it, marching across
+the Milianah plain. We crossed the Djelish in a bac, or flying
+bridge, and reached Afreville about ten o'clock. Leaving B---- and
+Angelo to proceed to Medea, I went on to Milianah, where I arrived at
+about twelve o'clock. While waiting there for my baggage, I noticed
+some Arab boys playing at a game closely resembling hockey. Milianah
+is a very strong fort, with a splendid view over the Atlas mountains
+and the plain of the Djelish. I stopped at the Cat or Du-chat stables,
+appropriately kept by Mr. Duchat-_el_, and found that it was too late
+to stop at any place on the road to Blidah.
+
+I took a walk through the town, and on the Grande Place found a number
+of soldiers singing a chorus very creditably, without instrumental
+accompaniment. They perform in this manner every Sunday. The view over
+the plain of the Djelish is one of the most splendid I ever beheld,
+not excepting that from the Alhambra itself. I was told I could easily
+get to Blidah in a day on horseback, from Milianah, so I determined to
+stay at the Hotel d'Iffly, a very comfortable place. At dinner I met
+Mostyn and Captain Ross, just arrived from Algiers, per diligence.
+Captain R----, who is in the Bengal Artillery, told me he thought the
+French used the natives much better than we do those of India. I
+differ from him. One of the French officers with whom I dined told me
+the only way to manage the "Indigenes" was by that vigorous measure,
+"_un coup de fouet_," and, from what I saw, I believe it to be the
+case.
+
+On Monday, the 19th, I left Milianah at about half-past seven, and
+rode through splendid Pyreneean scenery to Vezoul, a French village.
+The aubergiste took me for a German, and announced that he had two
+German workmen staying with him, who spoke with the same accent I
+used. When I repudiated my Teutonic nationality, he met me with the
+remark: "_Enfin, c'est le meme sang rouge qui coule dans nos veines,
+que nous soyons Anglais, Francais, ou Allemands;_" to which undeniable
+proposition I rejoined, "_Oui, c'est vrai nous sommes tous Europeens
+ici._" I fed my horse here, and came on, over the mountains, under a
+very hot sun, to Bourkikah, where I entered the Medidja plain. On
+entering this plain, the traveller enjoys a magnificent view right
+onward to sea, gleaming miles away in the sunny haze. At Bourkikah, my
+horse was so tired, that I was obliged to take off the saddle-bags,
+and leave them at the "Bureau des Diligences," to be forwarded. Some
+French officers at the hotel assured me I should not be able to get to
+Blidah, and recommended me strongly to stay at El Afroun, "_chez les
+Petits Freres_," if I found my horse too tired to proceed. I rode
+determinedly on through the plain, but could scarcely get my horse to
+move by dint of whip or spur. By the time I had crossed the river into
+El Afroun, I found my horse so entirely knocked up, that it was
+clearly impossible to proceed. So, of necessity, I turned into the
+auberge, and had a very good dinner, enlivened by a serenade from a
+legion of frogs, croaking dolefully in the neighbouring marshes.
+
+Getting away from El Afroun by six o'clock next morning, I found
+myself at Blidah by half-past seven. The cavalry horses were just
+turning out on the plains, and looked very handsome as I rode into the
+town. At Blidah, where I breakfasted, the sun was hot enough to burn
+my face in a most unequivocal manner, and to necessitate the purchase
+of a new hat. On arriving at Bouffanieh, I got off my horse, which by
+this time had fairly fallen lame, and took the diligence into Algiers.
+At Bouffanieh I was much amused at the proceedings of a group of
+Arabs, who were squatting on the ground, selling oranges. Their first
+customer was a drunken Frenchman, who came staggering up, and began
+chaffing the vendors; but they evidently got the better of him in no
+time, and he retired in confusion. Next came a grave, steady-looking
+Spaniard, who, after much bargaining, marched off with _one_ orange.
+He was followed by a little girl, who very quickly got hold of three.
+I thought Algiers improved on a second view.
+
+Next day I went for a ride to the Maison Carree, with De Warne and
+Captain Thouars, of the _Euphrates_. We had a most magnificent view
+over the plain of the Metidja. This was the first night of the
+Rhamazan. I visited the mosques, which have been thrown open to
+Europeans since the French occupation. Thence I proceeded to view a
+strange religious or fanatic ceremony of the Mussulmans; some Swedish
+naval officers were with us. The whole affair reminded me of a meeting
+of Jumpers, or Ranters. There are no priests to take part in it. The
+men stand round in a circle, reciting prayers to Allah, and calling on
+Mahomet, while they work their bodies violently backwards and
+forwards, till they lash themselves into a state of perfect frenzy.
+One fanatic more zealous than the rest then rushes forward, cuts
+himself with a knife, and stands on the sharp edge of the weapon,
+which is held by another. The chaunt or psalm is then renewed, and
+another devotee comes forward howling; snatches a portion of prickly
+pear, and actually devours it ravenously. Then another exceedingly
+zealous performer--whose face, by the way, reminded me strangely of
+the portraits of Disraeli in _Punch_--seized some red-hot coals, and
+held them in his mouth for a time, afterwards proceeding to swallow
+lighted pipes, and execute other salamandrine feats. After witnessing
+this spectacle of degradation for some time, we retired, somewhat
+disgusted at the buffooneries perpetrated in this country, as
+elsewhere, in the name of religion.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+BONA AND ITS VICINITY.
+
+  Passage to Bona.--State of Affairs on Board.--Bona.--The Lake
+  Metitza.--Ain Mokra.--Wild Duck Shooting on the Lake.
+
+
+We bade adieu to B----, who had given us letters of recommendation to
+the Admiral, for a first-class cabin to Bona--a thing difficult to
+achieve on board the steamers here, as civilians are only allowed
+second-class accommodation, the state cabin being reserved for the use
+of naval and military officers, as the steamers on this line rank as
+men of war. The boat was much crowded with soldiers, sailors, and
+Arabs, and we had to share a most miserable berth with eight other
+occupants. We had arrived too late to procure cabin places, and were
+obliged to dine in an unsavoury den, reeking with pestilential odours.
+Most of the Frenchmen grumbled loudly at the miserable accommodation
+afforded in return for their money. Steaming along past a fine coast,
+we reached Dellis about eight o'clock. I got Angelo to bring me my
+sheepskin and cloak, and preferred sleeping on deck to passing the
+night in a locality which, for the horrors it contained, might have
+figured as a scene in Dante's "Inferno."
+
+The gentle music of the sailors, swabbing the deck, awoke me next
+morning. I found we were off Bougie, a most beautifully-situated
+place, entirely surrounded by snow-covered mountains. Here are
+distinctly to be seen the ruins of the old wall supposed to have been
+built by the Vandals. A rather tedious day on board, but the
+occupation of watching the coast, which is very fine, varied the
+monotony of the voyage. We passed Djigelli at about twelve, and
+Philippeville at nine in the evening, when I retired to rest, and, the
+Fates be thanked, it was in a fresh cabin.
+
+There was a Jewess on board, a rather pretty personage, who slept in
+the same cabin with six men, most of them French officers, with a
+coolness that astonished me. Her husband was in the berth opposite
+her; she did not appear to feel the discomforts of her position, but
+chatted away gaily in Arabic and French throughout the whole passage.
+I don't think she quitted her berth once.
+
+At half-past six on Saturday, the 25th of March, came Angelo to
+announce to me that we were off Bona. This is a very strongly
+fortified place. We were rowed ashore by Maltese boatmen, and, amid a
+great crowd and bustle on the quay, landed, and went to the Hotel de
+France. The proprietors were very civil, and assigned us a room at the
+top of the house, looking out on the place. We sallied forth in quest
+of horses to take us to the market-place. An Arab, who spoke some
+very broken and dilapidated Italian, took us round the market and
+through the streets, shouting "Reel Ain Mokra!" Several Arabs came up
+and offered us their horses, but the steeds had such a forlorn look,
+that we declined the accommodation, and settled to start by carriage
+next morning.
+
+Accordingly, on Monday, the 26th of March, we set out at five o'clock,
+on a most wretched morning. The vehicle was the most miserable
+locomotive contrivance I ever saw. Drawn by two horses, it pounded and
+churned along a most detestable road. We were obliged to get out
+several times, and in one place we stuck in the mud for twenty
+minutes. It was only by dint of putting our united shoulders to the
+wheel, that we succeeded in extricating our unhappy chariot from its
+stationary position. At length our eyes were gladdened by the sight of
+the defile which opens on the lake Metitza, where Count Z----'s
+property is situated. Though of Polish origin, the Count is an
+Englishman, and has, I believe, been an officer. Right gladly we
+alighted from the carriage, and, loading our guns, prevailed on some
+Italian fishermen to take us out in a boat for a pop at the wild ducks
+which we saw flying about by hundreds, bagged a few, and then returned
+to find that the Count's keeper had come down, under the impression
+that we were poachers, with a firm determination to take us into
+custody there and then. The production of our letter of recommendation
+brought him back to civility, and produced an offer to take us out
+shooting; Count Z---- himself was absent in London.
+
+There is an establishment here for the manufacture of oil from putrid
+fish, which agreeable occupation announced itself in the shape of such
+an overpowering odour, that I seized a glass of cognac, and fled
+precipitately, taking my way towards the caravanserai of Ain Mokra.
+Poor old Nero, whom I had brought with me, got into a scrape here, and
+narrowly escaped being drowned. It appears that the putrid entrails of
+the fish are thrown into a kind of pond, which is thus filled with a
+slimy mixture resembling clay, and exhaling a most horrible odour when
+exposed to the sun's rays. Nero contrived, in some way or other, to
+slip into this delectable compound, and there he would have remained,
+had I not laid hold of him and pulled him out by main force. I at once
+had him washed and scrubbed, and even emptied some scent on him, but
+in vain; for days afterwards, poor Nero carried about with him a
+reminiscence of his odoriferous adventure, which rendered his absence
+most desirable to the comfort and well-being of his friends. I sallied
+forth about four miles from Ain Mokra, and lay in ambush for boars,
+but none appeared, and only shot some jackals--a very poor substitute
+for the nobler game I had missed.
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith.
+
+M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+SHOOTING WILD DUCKS NEAR AIN MOKRA, PROVINCE OF
+CONSTANTINE, ALGERIA.]
+
+At five, next morning, I went out to shoot on the lake. I got Angelo
+to row a boat slowly among the reeds, and soon saw hundreds of wild
+ducks, teals, and large white birds of whose name I am ignorant; they
+looked to me like flamingoes. I could only succeed in bagging a few,
+as they were exceedingly shy, and made off as soon as the boat
+approached; moreover, the rushes were not thick enough to afford us an
+effectual concealment. As the miasma from the lake was sufficiently
+powerful to threaten fever, we returned to the caravanserai, where we
+breakfasted, and, after shooting a few quails, returned in our
+carriage, at one o'clock, to Bona. My driver, who sat beside me, was a
+very loquacious old soldier, who had served in the campaigns against
+the Arabs under Baraguay d'Hilliers and Youssouf, and been present at
+the capture of Milianah and Medeah. The Arabs, he said, never met the
+French fairly _en bataille rangee_, but always fired from ambush at
+the rear-guard, and in this way killed a great number of men. He
+described the conduct of the Arabs to their prisoners as very
+merciless. They never gave quarter, and frequently mutilated their
+captives; the women, in this particular, being more cruel than the
+men. I was informed, on my return, that the party who came out last
+year to shoot, had only killed four lions in as many months, though
+they had "all appliances and means to boot," and always kept several
+Arabs in their pay.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ON TO TUNIS.
+
+  Algeria in general.--The Arabs and their Conquerors.--Antagonism
+  between the Two Races.--Social Condition of the Arabs.--The Oasis
+  steamer.--Arrival at Tunis.
+
+
+On the 28th of March I left Bona in the steamer _Oasis_. The engine
+broke down shortly after leaving the port, and, as the sails were
+absolutely useless, we had the pleasant consciousness of drifting
+towards a lee shore; but in a short time the damage was luckily
+repaired, and we proceeded on our voyage.
+
+The accounts I had heard of Algeria had not prepared me to find such a
+flourishing state of affairs as I really found to exist in the
+community. The colony possesses fine harbours, a magnificent soil, and
+a glorious climate; numerous towns, with good hotels, are springing up
+in the interior. It is true that many of the immigrants are not
+French, but the majority are of that nation; and all the inhabitants,
+after a few years, adopt the French manners and language. The
+non-Gallic population are chiefly Spaniards, Italians, Maltese, and
+Germans. I met only one party of English at Bona, where a community of
+eighteen souls have been brought over by a Mr. Vincent; they appear
+to thrive very well. I was told that Count Z---- intended establishing
+an English village near Bona.
+
+From the general prosperity, I, of course, except the Moors and Arabs,
+who will never, I believe, adopt European civilisation; they seem to
+recoil from before it, like the wild beasts of their native deserts.
+
+The French people certainly pointed out to me in the towns one or
+two _Europeanised_ Arabs, and laughed at the idea of their ever
+becoming "_Francais_." From what I saw, the natives merely adopted
+the vices without the good qualities of the dominant race. If to be
+civilised consists in sitting in the _cafes_, drinking absinthe,
+playing cards, and speaking bad French, I certainly saw one or two
+most unquestionable specimens of the Arab adaptability to Gallic
+impressions; but, with the exception of these brilliant results, I
+never saw the least token of intercourse between the Moors and
+their conquerors; indeed, each nation may be said entirely to ignore
+the existence of the other. The peculiarity of Mussulman habits,
+with regard to women, entirely precludes all prospect of a future
+mixture of the two races--such an amalgamation, for instance, as
+occurred in our own country between the Norman-French conquerors
+and the conquered Saxons. So well are the French aware of this
+impossibility, that I have seen the question of the expediency of
+utterly expelling the Mussulmans from Algeria gravely discussed in
+the French journals.
+
+Another method proposed was, that the young Arabs who had attained the
+military age of from eighteen to twenty-two years, should be
+transferred to France, there to pass their period of service as
+infantry soldiers only, that opportunities might be found, during
+their "soldiering years," for instructing them in agriculture, and the
+rudiments of civilised education. This appears to me a sufficiently
+feasible plan; but I suspect that the Arab converts to civilisation
+would, on their return to their native land, quickly relapse into
+their old idle, roving habits, their primitive mode of life, and their
+inborn hatred of the infidel, whom they now regard as an instrument
+sent by Providence to inflict vengeance on the true believer for his
+apathy, and culpable neglect of his religious duties, including the
+propagation of his faith by fire and sword. Still, they believe the
+time to be approaching when every true son of the prophet shall "hae
+his ain" again; and it is past the power of mortal man to shake a
+Mahometan's trust and reliance on Destiny.
+
+For the rest, the French behave with the greatest toleration towards
+all members of the Moorish faith, who are allowed to perform every
+rite of their religion, and polygamy even is permitted to prevail
+among the Mussulman population. At Bona, a very handsome mosque is
+being erected on the Grand Place by the Government. Tolerant
+themselves, the French refuse, with perfect justice, to suffer any
+display of bigotry or fanaticism on the part of the Mahometans towards
+the Christian community; the consequence is, that the mosques and
+other resorts of Mahometans are all thrown open to European visitors.
+
+My dog Nero was a most decided favourite on board the French steamer,
+_Oasis_. Everybody was caressing and patting him, from the captain to
+the stewardess, rather a nice young female, from Germany, who took him
+under her especial protection, and looked after his creature-comforts
+in a way that must have aroused the most lively gratitude in the
+canine bosom of the said Nero. Poor old dog! he seemed quite
+bewildered at the attention he received, not only here, but also on
+board the French man-of-war, the _Tartar_, where the French soldiers
+and sailors were crowding around him all day long, and overwhelming
+him with favours, in the shape of bits of meat, when they took their
+meals. A number of Arabs were sleeping about the deck. These children
+of the desert used to excite Nero's especial wonder. Whenever he was
+let loose, he was sure to be sniffing about among the prostrate
+figures, examining their faces and _bournouses_, and often waking them
+up with a start, to the intense delight of the French tars.
+
+On our arrival off La Goulette, the only anchorage for ships, situated
+about eight miles from Tunis, by sea, and nine miles by land, we were
+greeted by a scene of the most tremendous confusion. All the feluccas
+were rowed by Arabs, and their shouting, swearing, and gesticulation
+exceeded all my former experiences of the kind, Stamboul not
+excepted. A little patience, and a good deal of backsheesh, enabled us
+to pass our baggage through the Douane; and we sent it on by boat to
+Tunis, whither we proceeded by land in a carriage, and a drizzling
+rain. Once on the way we stopped, at what the inhabitants term the
+"Carthaginian cistern," to take in some exceedingly dirty water, from
+a fountain of old-fashioned appearance. The carriage windows were
+closed on account of the rain--an arrangement which interfered a good
+deal with my view of the surrounding country. Twice only, before we
+arrived at Tunis, my companion, a Russian, opened the window--to spit!
+On the first of these occasions, I got a glimpse of a large heap of
+immense stones, which were pointed out to me as the ruins of Carthage,
+and a grove of olives, looking dismal exceedingly in the drizzling
+rain. On the second occasion, I saw the lakes, and a solitary Tunisian
+sentinel. This soldier was dressed much in the Turkish costume, and I
+should scarcely have known him from an Osmanli, but that he wore the
+brass plaque in the front of his scarlet fez, instead of at the top.
+
+As we approached Tunis, we became involved in an increasing crowd of
+loaded asses and mules; and, amid a great deal of screeching and
+shouting, we made our entry into the city, and drove to the Hotel
+de France, where we obtained such a complete view of an old wall,
+that it effectually prevented us from seeing anything else. The
+rooms, or rather holes, assigned to us, were so miserable, that we
+tried the solitary opposition shop the place can boast--the Hotel
+de Provence--but found that here we should fare rather worse than in
+the Hotel de France. There was a third establishment--a tavern,
+rejoicing in the magniloquent title of "Hotel of the Britannic
+Isles"--but as this hostelry was entirely occupied by sailors and
+Maltese skippers, we declined to avail ourselves of the "Britannic"
+accommodation. There was a great crowd of rather miscellaneous
+company at the _table-d'hote_. One French female, whom, without
+offence to gallantry, I may be permitted to describe as the ugliest
+woman I met in my travels, excited my especial horror. This charming
+person actually amused herself, and disgusted her neighbours, by
+indulging, _across the table_, in an amusement generally associated
+in men's minds with the chewing of tobacco! I discovered, however,
+that she was only a servant maid.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+MARSA.
+
+  Angelo's Horsemanship.--The Bey's Palace at Marsa.--The Arabs and
+  their Love of Tobacco.--The Friendly Moor at Camatte.
+
+
+On the first of April I rode to Marsa, a little town on the seashore.
+Angelo's horse seemed rather fresh, and my servant was evidently no
+Centaur. He came up to me in an olive wood, where I made a halt for
+about five minutes. He was holding on hard by the mane, his trousers
+were up to his knees, and his face was horribly pale. On my asking him
+why he loitered behind so, he owned, with a dismal sigh, that he was
+half afraid of the horse. "Afraid of the horse, sir!" was poor
+Angelo's lament: "Very wicked horse, sir--fell from a horse, sir--at
+Scutari, sir--broke three ribs, sir--and in hospital five weeks,
+sir!"
+
+I told him to be of good cheer, for the horse would soon be quiet
+after a good gallop; and, tying the horses to some olive trees, I bade
+Angelo wait for me by the side of a little hillock in the plain, where
+I could readily find him on my return, and went away into the forest
+with my gun. The ground was covered with long, thick, pointed grass,
+very wet with the dew. I saw some quails, and shot a few; then
+returned to where Angelo was waiting, and galloped on to Marsa. At
+this place, the Bey, and the principal inhabitants of Tunis, have
+summer residences, to which they resort for the sake of sea-bathing.
+On the way, I encountered a number of Arabs, mounted on mules. The
+foremost shouted out to me in Arabic, as I passed, asking me to stop
+and give him some tobacco. I understood the word "tobacco," which
+seems to have nearly the same sound in all languages, and knowing this
+request to be often a "dodge" on the part of the Arabs, who want an
+opportunity to rob, if not to murder, the traveller, I pointed to
+Angelo, who was following, about fifty paces behind me, with my gun,
+and shouted out that _he_ would find tobacco for them. They evidently
+understood my meaning; for they all set up a loud laugh, and my friend
+the tobacconist--or rather the tobacco-less--looked exceedingly
+"sold."
+
+I found Marsa very prettily situated, opposite to the bay of Tunis,
+near the ruins of old Carthage. The Bey's palace is a handsome
+building. The English and French consulates are also well built. I
+proceeded to a small Italian _locanda_, to get breakfast; but the old
+lady, who seemed the presiding genius of the place, obstinately
+refused to let us have anything. "_Io han niente_," was her
+unanswerable argument. But I rather ostentatiously pulled out my
+watch, whose golden blink somewhat softened the old lady's mood, and
+caused her to remember that she might have certain eggs, and some
+bread, and salad, though a moment before she had been protesting that
+she had not even such a thing as bread in the house. Her son, a
+handsome young Italian, returned at this juncture, and we soon had an
+excellent _dejeuner_ of sausages, salad, spinach, omelette, and
+cheese, with very good wine and coffee. I went down to the seaside and
+bathed, first burying my watch and purse in the sand; for the Arabs
+have a weakness for occasionally coming down under such circumstances,
+and stealing one's clothes.
+
+Past a ruined temple, down an avenue into Camatte, where I got an Arab
+to show me the way to a house formerly occupied by an Englishman.
+Here, for a wonder, I met a Moor, who spoke very good French, and was
+very civil. He asked me how I liked Africa, and laughed cordially at
+my open avowal, that it was "_un peu bizarre_." After gathering a few
+delicious oranges for me in the garden, he took me into the interior
+of the house. I found it a most charming residence, with a deliciously
+cool marble reservoir in the centre, full of gold and silver fish.
+
+I rode back by the margin of the lake, but saw only small game till I
+got to a large olive forest, where a jackal made his appearance. I
+gave chase, and, after a rattling gallop, lodged him among some cactus
+bushes, where I could get near enough to shoot him; and so back to
+Tunis.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+ABOUT BOAR-SHOOTING.
+
+  Sleeman.--The Oued el Ahwena.--Its Scenery and its Dangers.--Beauty
+  of the Landscape on its Banks.
+
+
+I started next day with the Umbra, who was remarkable for a long
+scimitar, and spurs nearly as long. Each time I put my horse to a
+gallop, he was under the impression that I wanted to ride a race with
+him, and went on at full speed, till I restrained his ardour. We
+arrived duly at Sleeman, where the Caid had everything prepared very
+comfortably for us. My friends B---- and F---- arrived later, in a
+carriage. We had a good Arab dinner, with the national kouskous,
+followed by a chibouk.
+
+There was a river about six miles off, where boars were rumoured to
+make their abode. I rose early next morning, and, proceeding to this
+stream, hid in the thicket on the banks, while the Arabs beat the
+bushes. After waiting a long time, I managed to "pot" a wild boar,
+which came rushing past me at full speed. After this, the Arabs
+refused to beat the bushes any more, declaring that the dogs were
+tired, though the real reason was that they wanted their own dinners,
+so I was obliged to give up the sport and return. The wild boar was
+dispatched as a present to the consul.
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith.
+
+M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+HOG-SHOOTING ON THE BANKS OF THE OUED EL AHWENA, IN
+TUNISIA.]
+
+The river which we visited to-day is called the Oued el Ahwena. It
+runs through a rich valley, bordered on both sides by mountains which
+rise up gradually, and are covered to their very foot with trees of
+various descriptions. The plain itself is fragrant with myrtles,
+orange trees, and olives. The beauty of the scene amid which this
+river falls into the sea is beyond description. Here the water is
+hissing wildly among osiers and furze bushes; there it skips along
+like a young goat over the small pebbles; and yonder, again, it winds
+like a serpent among the sand hills on the sea-shore. The dark
+olive-trees on the bank seem to look seriously on, like a father
+watching the pranks of a favourite child. The large ash-trees shake
+and quiver, like old aunts, all in a tremble at the dangerous hops and
+vagaries of a lively niece; while the gay-plumaged birds of the air
+ring out their wild applause, and the flowers on the bankside murmur
+tenderly, "Oh, take us with you, dear sister!" But the joyous,
+sparkling river rushes on like a coquette, bounding and skipping
+towards its goal.
+
+Such is the river Ahwena in the glorious month of April: fair without,
+like many a gay flirt, she can yet inflict wounds incurable, if not
+death, upon those whom her wiles entrap. Woe to the traveller or
+hunter who, oppressed by thirst in this burning climate, ventures to
+taste the sparkling water that bubbles up like champagne, invitingly
+at his feet! Cholera and death would be the probable result. The
+waters are redolent of cholera, and the banks of fever. No man may
+pitch his tent in safety for a single night on the banks of this
+death-dealing water; not even the Bedouins, who avoid the locality as
+if it were plague-stricken, for fever is in the very air. Strange that
+so fair an exterior should veil so baneful a mystery. Those bright,
+sweet-smelling flowers conceal snakes and reptiles whose bite is
+almost instantaneously fatal, and the place might be appropriately
+termed the Valley of Death. Among yonder fair trees lurk the
+treacherous panther and the slinking hyena.
+
+Yet, in this world, amid present impressions of pleasure, we have
+little time to think of the danger veiled beneath the smiling outward
+shape. So, at least, it was with me, as I reclined on the carpet of
+soft grass, after slaying the boar, placidly discussing my breakfast,
+and enjoying the beauty of the scene around, with the azure-rippling
+sea about two miles off, the magnificent mountains around me, the
+sparkling river at my feet, and, across the bay in the far distance,
+the ruins of the once mighty city of Carthage, with the birds singing
+merrily overhead in the bright sunshine. There is exquisite pleasure
+in the sensation of the external world thus melting away, as it were,
+into a little world of our own, and when the green trees, the azure
+sky, the perfumed plants, all take their places in an exquisite
+picture of Nature's own painting. Women, perhaps, most indulge this
+feeling; hence they often smile with an amiable incredulity when they
+hear the "lords of the creation," proud of their scholastic lore,
+discussing and settling everything, priding themselves upon having
+divided all things so cleverly into _subjective_ and _objective_, and
+boasting that they have furnished their wise heads with so many
+drawers (like a chemist's shop, forsooth), with reason located in one,
+good sense in another, understanding in a third, and so on to the end
+of the chapter.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+SPORTING EXPERIENCES.
+
+  El Greesh.--Shooting Hyenas.--An Expedition with the Arabs.--The
+  Caid and his Family.--Another Wild Boar.
+
+
+The next day I rode on to a place called El Greesh, about twenty miles
+from Sleeman. I wanted to pitch my tent at the base of the purple
+mountain, outside the village, where I was sure we should have got a
+great deal of game, as the mountains were covered with thick
+underwood. A----, however, and the rest were opposed to it, so I
+yielded, and pitched my tent in the village itself, where I soon had
+the entire tribe around me, examining me and my arms, my gestures, and
+everything, as if I was an event. After a cup of coffee, I determined
+to start in search of game, and, with a little backsheesh, got an Arab
+to accompany us to one of the neighbouring defiles, where, after
+waiting about an hour and a half, I managed to bag a very fine hyena.
+He was just sneaking out of his hole, and was about 150 yards off. On
+my return, the natives manifested great joy, shook my hands, made a
+circle round me, tapped me on the back, &c., to my chagrin. As I was
+tremendously fatigued, I retired to my sheepskin in my tent with
+great satisfaction. The natives all slept around our tents on the
+ground, and some of them kicked up a most infernal noise till about
+two in the morning, singing a sort of chorus. The following morning
+the whole tribe collected around our tents and watched _our toilette
+du matin_ with the most intense eagerness.
+
+[Illustration: R. Pheney, lith.
+
+M. & N. Hanhart, Impt.
+
+SHOOTING HYENAS ON THE PURPLE MOUNTAINS NEAR EL GREESHE.]
+
+The greater part of them had brought their matchlocks, as the day was
+to be a grand field-day, and they were all in the highest spirits,
+laughing, and cracking jokes to an extraordinary amount. We started
+about seven A.M., and I remained till eleven A.M., till which time
+they had not succeeded in driving anything out of cover. Here I
+sprained my ankle in descending a broken gully, and was obliged to
+return to the tent. I came back about four P.M., with only small game.
+After sun-down we went out a second time in ambush after hyena. A lion
+or panther came, a little after sunset, and frightened the horses so
+that they broke loose, and we returned to the tents about eleven P.M.
+
+The next day we started early, in order to return to Sleeman. We
+stopped an hour on the banks of our old friend, the river Oued el
+Ahwenah, for luncheon, where I shot several quail and snipes, and a
+large bird, whose name I ignore, also a hare, the only one I saw in
+Tunisia. About four P.M., I reached the Caid's house; a woman, for a
+wonder, opened the door. As the Caid was there, I looked anywhere but
+at her. The next day we went out all day, after boar, to the river,
+with an Italian and some Arabs. I stood up to my knees in the river
+for about an hour in the brush-wood, when one rushed by; I fired, and
+he rushed forward badly damaged. The rest fired, and he was found dead
+a few yards off. The Italian's steed broke loose, and he left us in
+search of it. I broke from my _corps de garde_. My horse lost a shoe,
+and then broke loose, and I had to follow him for more than a mile. I
+had a kind of dumbshow conversation with the Caid's son on my return,
+a very fine, handsome lad, about seventeen. I hear his sister is most
+beautiful, and I promised to send him a present, on getting to Tunis,
+and he is to write to me and tell me if he receives it. After dinner
+the Caid came and smoked two or three pipes, drank coffee, and wished
+us adieu in a most gracious manner.
+
+We had considerable difficulty in bringing home the boar, as our Arabs
+all deserted us on account of its being the Ramadhan; but Angelo and
+B---- managed to carry it back between them. I returned to Tunis next
+day.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+TUNIS AND ITS GOVERNMENT.
+
+  Picturesque Situation of Tunis.--The Horse Market.--Effects of
+  Race.--The Bazaars.--Mohamed Medea.--The Bardo.--The Bey of
+  Tunis.--His Mode of administering Justice.--Prince Puckler
+  Muskau's Account of his Interview.
+
+
+Tunis is situated on the borders of a lake, or rather inlet of the
+sea. It is surrounded by a crenelated wall, which resembles very much
+that of Constantinople. Like that city, too, Tunis, from the exterior,
+presents a very imposing aspect; but enter the city, and the illusion
+vanishes; there is the same dirt, the same narrow and filthy streets,
+as in the Turkish capital. The dogs alone are wanting to make the
+comparison perfect. An ancient historian has called this place _Tunis
+the white_; but, like other whited sepulchres, it is very foul within.
+The horses, the really thorough-bred ones, are the finest objects in
+Tunis. As in the canine and human, so in every other race, blood will
+tell. The Arab horse, though by no means so swift for a short distance
+as his English cousin, has a most marvellous power of endurance. He is
+also extremely sure footed, and scarcely ever comes down. I weigh over
+thirteen stone, yet have frequently ridden the same horse forty
+English miles per diem, over country that would infallibly cut up your
+English two hundred guinea hunter. They also, so to speak, live on
+air. Their chief drawback is that they are, with few exceptions,
+stallions, and, consequently, when tethered or standing near each
+other, are very apt to fight most desperately, or else break loose
+from their tetherings, when a long and wearisome pursuit is the
+necessary result. It is very difficult to come across the best _pur
+sang_ horses, as the Arabs are afraid of the Bey's taking a fancy to
+them, and taking them by force; and, consequently, they often
+purposely mutilate them, lest he should seize them to himself. There
+are also some very fine bazaars at Tunis, and the otto of roses there
+is especially excellent. Our Consul has a very fine, large house, and
+dispenses his hospitalities, &c., very generously to his compatriots.
+His lady is also a most amiable person. Tunis is, I hear, celebrated
+for the manufacture of the red cap, usually termed "fez," which is
+worn generally throughout Mussulman countries, and universally by the
+military. The Tunisian soldiers wear the plaque in front of the fez,
+in lieu of on the top, like the Turkish. As soon as I had selected my
+horse, a fine black thorough-bred Arab (whose price was four hundred
+francs only), I used to make excursions every day into the country,
+sometimes alone, sometimes attended, always armed, as the Francs of
+Tunis told me many stories of the dangers arising from going out in
+the country unarmed, among the Arabs. I think a great number of them
+were very much exaggerated. One of the places I was fond of riding to
+was Mohamed Medea, about twelve miles from Tunis, very prettily
+situated, where there was a very fine ruin of a Roman aqueduct, and
+eke a French restaurant, where a _dejeuner_, made more agreeable by a
+twelve miles' ride, was served in quite Parisian style. The reason of
+there being a French restaurant is this:--The present Bey, on his
+accession, determined to build a fresh palace at this place; and,
+being under a sort of douce compulsion, employs nothing but French
+architects and operatives, who make the hotel their head-quarters, it
+being about the only Christian house in the entire place. Quail
+abounded in this vicinity, and there were _pas mal de sangliers_. To
+escape from the _ennui_ of the _table d'hote dejeuner_ at Tunis,
+occupied by French bagmen and milliners, and served in a stuffy hole
+of a back kitchen, I used frequently to make Angelo put my breakfast
+in my _sacoche_ (saddle-bag), consisting of a piece of cold meat and
+some _vin du pays_, and then ride out, dismount, and breakfast _al
+fresco_, or rather _al bosco_; sometimes I am sorry to confess to
+breaking the eighth commandment, as I helped myself to my dessert of
+oranges, from the trees near or under which I sat. The Arabs, _malgre_
+the ogre histories I had heard of murder and robbery, were always most
+civil, and would accept, in spite of the prophet, a glass of wine from
+my hands though our conversation was of course of the most limited
+description, unless Angelo was present to interpret. It is true I
+always was armed.
+
+The Bardo is one of the lions of Tunis. It is the country residence of
+the Bey, and, besides the harem, contains a hall of justice and
+barracks. It is at Bardo that the Bey holds his court of justice, in
+which the cases are decided very quickly, and with great precision.
+The interior of the harem, according to a French traveller, who had
+visited it, is fitted up very gracefully. There is a magnificent _jet
+d'eau_ in the marble court of the interior. The gallery running round
+this court on the second storey is furnished with a very artistically
+elaborated railing, or grating, part of which is painted green, part
+gilt. Behind this railing the ladies of the harem get a sly peep at
+those who visit his highness. The vast saloon in which the Bey
+receives his visitors is hung with crimson velvet, embroidered with
+gold, and the ceiling is also gilt and painted over in brilliant
+colours. From the two sides of the wall are suspended different
+descriptions of arms, richly manufactured; on the right, they consist
+of swords and poniards; on the left, of various kinds of muskets and
+pistols. Gold, silver, and precious stones sparkle out from these
+arms. Under these weapons are ranged three rows of divans, covered
+with a thick sort of red silk. The centre of the apartment is
+furnished with magnificent Persian carpets. On the lowest of the
+divans, the principal courtiers seat themselves, on solemn days of
+reception, in double file; while at the extremity, the Bey reclines on
+an ottoman placed crossways, and covered with white satin. In Europe,
+we might, with great advantage, take a wrinkle or two from this
+semi-barbarian prince as regards the administration of justice with
+expedition. The Bey of Tunis is, at one and the same time, the chief
+governor of the realm, the administrator of the public revenues, and
+the final judge of all grand cases. From his immediate authority
+depends the administration of the police, the imposition of taxes, the
+various diplomatic relations, and the superintendence of the army and
+navy.
+
+We Europeans can scarcely comprehend how one man can look after so
+many different details, or direct them with order and precision. But
+in this country, mark, oh! red-tapeists, everything relating to
+interior administration is reduced to the greatest simplicity, and
+from this simplicity, freed from the complicated system of European
+red-tapeism and bureaucracy, results, it is to be hoped, a strict
+economy in public expenses, and a rapid process in the courts of
+justice and other Government affairs. Where a European prince would
+require a hundred different _employes_, here five or six clerks
+suffice. Besides the celerity and economy resulting from such a
+system, a third no less important advantage is derived, viz., the
+facility with which the Bey is able to superintend the conduct of the
+ministers, being so few in number, and immediately detect and punish
+those in whom any act of embezzlement or fraud has been detected; and
+punishment in this country immediately follows detection. Verily,
+there are advantages in autocratic as well as in constitutional
+dynasties!!
+
+In the administration of justice, too, the Bey is supreme judge, from
+whom there is no appeal. The celerity with which causes are tried and
+judged, is, I am told, perfectly astounding. The case merely consists
+in a simple exposition of the facts, and such is the wonderful power
+of discernment of the merits of the case which the Bey thinks he has
+obtained from long habit, that it is said he rarely deliberates. The
+court is open to the public--even to Christians! I did not go; but
+Prince Puckler Muskau has left an account of his presence there. After
+giving a description of the room, &c., and the Bey's entry, the Prince
+proceeds:--"The Bey was now presented with a magnificent pipe, which
+was at least ten feet long. After a few puffs, the audience commenced.
+The civil and criminal procedure is so summary, that a great majority
+of cases were decided in as many minutes as they would have taken
+years in Europe. The subject of the causes was frequently very
+trivial, yet the patience of the sovereign was by no means exhausted.
+I thought, in general, that the pleaders were satisfied with the Bey's
+decision. One sees, by this, that the Bey's place is no sinecure; and
+I am told that few monarchs in Christian countries have so much
+personally to do. The Bey sits every day in the court, from eight in
+summer, and from nine in winter, till mid-day; and illness, or absence
+from town, is his only excuse for non-attendance. His other
+governmental duties occupy pretty well the rest of his day."
+
+Each country has an "idea," I suppose, that its own Government is
+best, and perhaps it is as well it should be so. The man who travels
+much sees the defects and the advantages of each. Our Parliament would
+certainly not easily be acclimatised in Barbary, nor would a Bey
+exactly do to grace the British throne. What, for instance, would we
+think of such a proclamation as this in the _London Gazette_, on a
+king's accession? It was issued by Mustapha, the father of the present
+Bey, to the consuls of Christian powers:--"Glory to princes of the
+religion of Messiah. To the chosen by the great of the nation of
+Jesus, our most honoured, most longed for, most magnificent, and most
+powerful friend, the King of ----, we make known, friendly, the
+following: On Wednesday, 23rd of the month of Moharrem the sacred, of
+the present year 1251, at the moment when the sun illumined the
+horizon, the hour marked by destiny having struck for my most honoured
+brother, Hassein Basha, he emigrated towards the mansion of eternity,"
+&c. &c.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+THE RUINS OF CARTHAGE.
+
+  Reflections on Ancient Carthage.--Hannibal and his Career.--An
+  Arab Domicile.--Picturesque appearance of the Ruins.
+
+
+I went three times to the "Ruins," and therefore should have been
+lucky. I was, however, the reverse, both as to seeing anything of the
+ruins, and also the particular object which brought me there. I think,
+myself, proverbs are very deceitful, and should, like dreams, be read
+by contrary; some are utterly unintelligible; as, for instance--will
+any one tell me what this one signifies?--"Sweet words butter no
+parsnips." I thought parsnips (and, being fond of vegetables, I should
+like to know) were generally seasoned with pepper or vinegar. I am,
+perhaps, too stupid to comprehend it, and, like stupid people, abuse
+what I don't understand. Therefore, don't let any one expect a long
+description of how this part is Phoenician, and is supposed to be
+where the Carthaginian parliament was held; or their dandies and
+"fast" of both sexes met to polka of a night, or drink Punic punch; or
+a "_cabinet de lecture_," or club, where the _Times_ or the _Globe_
+gave the latest telegram from Italy; as how Hannibal obtained a
+glorious victory over the Roman troops at Thrasymene, or that the
+commissariat was bad; then, perhaps, old grumblers decried the
+dissipation at Cannae, and the expense of the war; and ancient
+merchants on 'Change complained of the rising importance of the Roman
+navy, whose ships had just captured the large Phoenician brigantine
+_Argo_, from Sidon, laden with a valuable freight, otto of roses, and
+bound for Carthage--_apropos_ of which I will remark, there is a
+military Rome and a mercantile Carthage in modern times. Take care we
+be not the Carthage; let us remember that it was from a stranded Punic
+vessel the Romans learnt the maritime art, in which, at last, they
+excelled their enemies. Hannibal appears to me always the greatest man
+of any age, ancient or modern--Napoleon not excepted--and perhaps the
+most unfortunate. His character comes to us, as his exploits, from
+foreign and hostile sources; for I believe there exist no Phoenician
+records; so that there remains a great deal of discount to take off in
+the way of disparagement, depreciation, &c. &c. It is as if the future
+Australian, standing on the ruins of a city mightier than Carthage,
+could obtain no account of Napoleon, but through partial and
+depreciatory fragments from the pages of Sir Walter Scott's life of
+that extraordinary meteor. Napoleon, it is true, crossed the Alps, but
+Hannibal traversed the Alps and Pyrenees too, and I fancy the last are
+the more impassable of the two. It is true I have not copied Albert
+Smith, or our other heroic youths, but I have climbed the Malodetta,
+which well becomes its appellation. Then, Napoleon had a friendly
+population at any rate behind him, to bring supplies, &c. Hannibal was
+everywhere surrounded by hostile tribes, besides having had the
+disadvantage of a march through enemies' countries of several hundred,
+if not thousand miles. I hope the living in Spain, for his sake, did
+not then consist of _olla podrida_, with a variation of garlic and
+acid wine.
+
+Perhaps there existed in these days some machine, or some marvellous
+powder, by which real mountains might be removed (as spiritual ones by
+faith) at pleasure, and replaced in their original position; but as
+history makes no mention thereof, it is but fair to conclude not. No,
+the only machine used, the only mine, was the invincible and iron will
+of the Carthaginian hero. He, too, if I mistake not, lived under
+parliamentary _regime_, in the shape of a senate, a great hamper on
+military manoeuvres, where all should be done quickly, secretly, and
+unanimously. Napoleon was his own master, with a devoted people. I
+wonder if parliamentary debates, in Punic days, were as long and
+insipid as in modern; that is, I have not been to them, but judge by
+what one reads in that modern tyrant, the _Times_. Oh, mighty _Times_!
+how we abuse you, and yet how should we relish our breakfast without
+you? who ever comes up to all we look for when great occasions call
+for your wonderful pen, stirring us to the quick; or whether, in an
+idle mood, we seek to while away the passing hour by a description of
+the last new folly, or the latest odour of the Thames, or anything
+else instructive and amusing. By the way, if the senate of Carthage
+took quarter as long sending supplies to their general as the Commons
+discussing the way to purify the Thames, I fancy he would not have
+crossed the Pyrenees.
+
+I said I went three times to Carthage; the first time, an English
+friend was leaving that day by a sailing ship, and I had promised to
+lunch with him at Goulette, and then see him on board, the first of
+which I did in a small house dignified by the name of _locanda_, or
+_Hotel Francais_, where some Maltese captains were breakfasting, who
+had a strong odour of onions and garlic, and at another table a
+Savoyard was discussing the question of annexation with a Provencal,
+in what I may term _moitie Francais moitie Italien_. They gave us soup
+made of, I don't know what, but the pepper was very strong, or rather,
+I may say, would have been, if it were not for the strong taste of the
+water, and _vice versa_; after that, some dried fish, called sardines,
+which they said had just been caught. For second course, we had a sort
+of _gigot de mouton_, which, in form, resembled the temple of Neptune
+at the "ruins," and you might almost have sworn they had cut it into
+that shape on purpose; and quails, very excellent; and we finished
+with cheese, which might have been manufactured from goat's milk, or
+cow's milk, or camel's milk, or all three, or any other milk, but was
+dignified by the appellation of _Chesterrre_, and was decidedly not
+Stilton, and eke delicious oranges. In this dinner we meet, as in
+life, with much good to counteract the evil, as the delicious quails
+made up for rancid flesh of sheep or horse; so, when next Lady Julia
+Plantagenet jilts me, I will remember Jessie Jones; or, again, as
+these fragrant oranges, redolent of the East, caused me to forget the
+nauseous _fromage_, so shall the friendship and good opinion of Brown
+console me for the putty eye and freezing regard of the fashionable
+Fitznoodle, when next we meet, not at Philippi, but in the park! After
+lunch, and adieux, I mounted my horse for the ruins, as my friend's
+vessel did not start as expected that day, owing to the calm.
+
+On passing the gate of Goulette, several Arab convicts, in chains,
+shouted at me for something; what it was, I ignore; perhaps they asked
+for backsheesh, or tobacco, or powder, fine or coarse; or, may be,
+they called me a dog of a Giaour, and cursed my relations and their
+limbs. This Goulette appears to be the chief place for the Arab
+malefactors, and they are mainly employed in improving the high road
+between Goulette and Tunis, and also in repairing the fortifications.
+
+The afternoon was beautiful, though hot. As it wanted some time to
+dinner at Tunis, I made a _detour_ on my return to the ruins, and it
+requires a fine air to make you enjoy fine scenery. There was
+scarcely a ripple on the blue Mediterranean. Beautiful trees of every
+description, olive and orange trees, oleanders, and others, grew to
+the very base of the mountain, and sent up a delicious perfume. I
+visited the chapel of St. Louis, from which one enjoys a most
+delicious prospect. It is built over some god's temple--whose, I
+forget, or even whether a Roman or Punic one; but this is dedicated to
+the true God and Christian worship, in remembrance of that venerable
+French king, who is said to have perished here, while on his way to
+Palestine, to fight the Moslem. Peace to his ashes! However, I
+soon left the hill to re-descend, for I was very thirsty; all of a
+sudden, behind an olive bush, I saw a head, black as ink, pop out;
+I hallooed to it first in English, then in Italian. No effect. I saw
+a female figure disappear behind a cottage, and out rushed a fine
+tall Arab, with menacing gesture, and more menacing language. I was
+in his garden. "A glass of water, please," said I, in Italian. Still
+no effect. I thought he was going to be savage, when, from behind
+the house popped, or rather rolled out, another little naked,
+curly-headed, black ball--a triennial by his looks--the Arab's only
+boy, no doubt. He was so irresistibly comic in appearance, that I
+burst into a fit of laughter. The man's face changed in a moment. I
+suppose he thought I was admiring the child. He immediately
+understood what I required, which he brought in such a large cup,
+that I thought it was intended for a pail. I nearly emptied it,
+however. He then volunteered bread and olives, which, however, I
+declined, to spoil my dinner. We then made mutual signs of greeting,
+and parted. Had I been able to talk, I would have stopped longer.
+There was a sudden friendship sprung up between me and that poor
+unlettered infant of the desert.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+THE RUINS AGAIN.
+
+  Great Extent of the Ancient City.--Marsa, on the
+  Sea-shore.--Carthaginian Catacombs near Camatte.--Quail
+  Shooting.--Trait of Honesty in the Arabs.--The Arab
+  Character.--Anecdotes concerning them.
+
+
+The second time I went to the ruins I went, like Scipio, to weep, not
+over Carthage, but the loss of my breakfast; and the more so that
+it was to have been a very good one--a regular pic-nic, or _fete
+champetre_--under olive-trees, or orange-trees, or palms, shaded
+from the scorching rays of Phoebus. Champagne, Burgundy (my
+favourite wine), were to crown the repast. Nor was the food to be
+only corporal, but eke mental, as the great explorer--the great
+excavator--was to be there, to have explained that this was a
+theatre, that an aqueduct; the god to whom this temple or that
+altar was dedicated; and how many four-in-hands, driven by fast
+young Phoenician guardsmen, would have been able to pass each other
+down that "_via longa_." How many stones made up that house; and that
+this was a bath, and not a harem; and that a certain statue of some
+celebrity--whose name I had never heard, and never shall--was, by
+some, supposed to lie 100 feet under this marble pillar, though,
+according to others, he might be 102 feet deep interred--for all of
+which, I daresay, I should have been the wiser and the better; but I
+was sufficiently mundane to regret my _dejeuner_ the most. The fact
+is, A----, whose back was not sufficiently recovered to accompany me
+riding, and the American Consul and Davies, had gone with the edibles
+and beverages in a carriage, and were to have met me at the temple
+of some god. But, unfortunately, I mistook the deity's name, and
+afterwards found that their shrine lay ten miles off from the one I
+worshipped at. This will give one a good idea of the vastness of
+the ancient city, and struck me more than all the lectures and
+description in the world. Where people were crowded like bees, as
+in our London, buying and selling, and riding and driving, some 2,000
+years past--occupied then, as now, in all the frivolities of this
+empty world--to find a complete solitude--a desert nearly--where
+wander the jackal and hyena! A very clever people, no doubt, these
+same Phoenicians were, to judge by their edifices; yet they had not
+discovered the theory of water finding its own level, as the
+peculiar construction of an aqueduct proves, the remains of which
+still exist, and which was to convey water some forty miles from the
+interior. There was a Roman city built over the Punic one, and the
+latter alone, of course, interests, as the former is seen any day, at
+Pompeii, in better perfection. Besides Angelo and myself, there was
+not a human being in view--yes, there are three Arab youths
+reclining behind that ruin of a wall, motionless as statues; I thought
+they were statues at first. Two have long flint guns, perhaps to
+keep crows off the corn, or shoot quails; or, perhaps, to shoot me
+if they can; for I have a fine gold chain, not to mention a ring,
+which would maintain them till they died of old age--which could
+keep them in ease and elegance for a couple of years, at the least.
+You have yet to learn, if you know it not, that ten Arabs, fine
+men though they be, with such rusty weapons as yours, are barely a
+match for one European with an arm such as mine. But, my poor boys,
+there is no chance for you. I have, you see, a revolver with six
+barrels. When you see that, your brow droops as much as your eyes
+sparkled when you saw the chain. It is fancy, on my part, most
+probably; so, off my horse, and off with my clothes. The sun was
+scorching, and I took a delicious swim in the sea, and then rode on to
+Marsa, where is a ruin (everything is in ruins here) of modern
+date--the late Bey's palace--a most superb edifice. I said a ruin,
+yet it is scarcely a ruin, though fast becoming so. Marsa is a sort
+of watering-place for the Christians of Tunis during the heat of
+summer. A----'s description of the part he visited I will give: "I
+went with Davies and the Yankee Consul to see the catacombs of
+Carthage, near Camatte, which completely undermined a large mountain
+by the sea coast. They contain rows of niches for the coffins, and
+each chamber communicates with others. They hold some twenty coffins
+each. Some skeletons have been found, and nails; the former crumbled
+to pieces immediately, on being exposed to the air. These catacombs
+are now inhabited by hyenas and jackals, and had a strong odour of
+those animals." It is supposed they extend for miles, but the impurity
+of the atmosphere precludes entrance to any distance.
+
+My third visit was to shoot quails on ground where, centuries ago,
+Hannibal had passed at the head of his bronzed legions, amid admiring
+groups of citizens, the bands playing, perhaps, "_Partant pour
+l'Italie_." The migration of quails takes place at this season, and,
+with a good retrieving spaniel, hundreds may be shot. But they lie
+very close, and require a dog to put them up. They are by no means
+easy to shoot, and require snipe shot. They lie in the young corn,
+which is very thick and thriving here as on the field of Waterloo. As
+I had put up No. 6 shot by mistake, and had no spaniel, I bagged but
+few comparatively, some twenty. A great number of these quails are
+sent alive to England, and on board the Italian steamer from Sicily
+there were about twenty large cages, containing about fifty live
+quails each, which they told me were going to Britain; they had been
+caught like larks by the net.
+
+By the way, I had here a proof of Arab honesty, refreshing as an
+oasis in the desert. Riding back through a village to Goutelle (where
+I was staying, previously to embarking for Malta), I dropped my
+powder-flask, unawares to myself. I had not passed two minutes when
+I heard a loud halloo, and turning, perceived an Arab running at full
+speed to me with my powder-flask. Now, powder is what Arabs prize
+more than gold even, precious stones, or tobacco, yet they might
+easily have taken this without my knowing anything. On my offering
+him coin worth about sixpence, the Arab, in broken _lingua Franca_,
+made me comprehend he preferred a few charges of powder, which I
+immediately gave, and which he carefully wrapped up in some old
+paper. I record this, because at Tunis and elsewhere, we hear of
+nothing but Arab dishonesty and thieving propensities. Is it true,
+and this exception a proof of the rule? or are all these stories
+false? It is hard to say.
+
+They are a curious race, apparently a mass of contradictions. One
+thing is certain; you must not treat them in the _du haut en bas_
+style. They are very proud, and naturally regard every Christian _ipso
+facto_ as individually inferior to the Mussulman, more specially in
+the far interior, where Christians have not as yet penetrated. A----
+and his party had started for Kef, _malgre_ my dissuasions. The fact
+of a man going to explore Punic ruins with one going to discover
+Mauritanian lions, was, to my mind, like mixing oil and vinegar, or
+fire and water, or eating meat with your knife, or soup with a fork,
+or taking two helpings of soup, or anything else incongruous. D----
+was to be their interpreter. The Arabs there told them that a lion
+can carry away a camel on his back, but not lift a sheep. This they
+firmly believe. The reason assigned is, that in former times (when
+animals spoke), the lion said, "I will carry off this sheep, with or
+without the consent of Allah;" and Allah said to the lion, "You shall
+not;" and from that time the monarch has never been able to lift a
+sheep. At one time the man and the lion were great friends, and the
+lion did not know he was stronger than the man. One day, as they were
+out walking together, a thorn ran into the lion's foot; he limped, and
+stopped to pull it out, when the man, in derision, said, "What! so
+strong a creature hurt with a thorn?" Then the lion in anger ran the
+thorn into the man's eye, who cried out with pain. This proved to the
+lion the man's inferiority, and ever after they were declared enemies.
+At a place called Tibursok, where A----'s party passed on their road
+to Keff, not a Christian, or even a Jew, were to be seen, consequently
+the Arabs were very intolerant. D---- walked into this town alone, in
+front of the party, and, speaking Arabic well, questioned one of the
+Arabs about some ruin, when another came up and said, "Why do you
+attend to that dog of a Christian?" D---- took no notice, when the
+other shouted out, "Cursed be your father, your mother, and all the
+members of your house." D---- then collared him; the Arab inquired,
+"What for?" "Because you cursed my relatives," said D----, seeing the
+rest of the party with the Bey's escort coming up, "and now, just
+show me the Caid's residence, and I will have you bastinadoed."
+However, as some of the other Arabs crowded round and begged for
+mercy, D---- thought it better to let him off.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+HOME!
+
+  My fellow-passenger, the Sportsman.--Passage from Tunis to Malta
+  in a Sailing Vessel.--Disagreeables of the Passage.--Home,
+  Overland.--Conclusion.
+
+
+On the steamer _Meludiah_, for Malta, I found a sporting Frenchman
+on deck. He had been my fellow-passenger from Bona to Tunis, and
+carried a revolver and a gun; the first for porpoises, the second
+for gulls, &c. He recounted to me, with great glee, how he had shot a
+grosbeak, and some other small birds, near Tunis, and given them to
+the cook on board for our dinner. It was a Mussulman steamer, and,
+being Rhamazan, they did not serve dinner till after sunset. I was
+nearly famished. The first course was salad served with rancid oil,
+which immediately brought me and the Frenchman on deck. During the
+rest of the passage I made Angelo serve my repasts. The Frenchman was
+a character. "_Je viens de perdre ma femme_," he said; "_il y a
+des femmes mechantes vous savez, Monsieur, et des femmes bonnes; la
+mienne etait bonne! mais bonne! Tenez, je l'ai mis dans le cercueil
+moi meme, et maintenant je suis ici pour me distraire, car je n'en
+trouverai pas une comme celle-la, allez. Je ferai le voyage, j'irai
+en Alexandrie--n'importe ou, travailler j'irai a l'Isthme de
+Suez._" At last we arrived in Malta. It is a pity for officers and
+others there is no regular communication by steam between Malta and
+Tunis; for the _desagremens_ of a sailing-vessel are by no means
+despicable. Witness a friend of mine's report thereon:--
+
+"25th.--Came on board the _Gemo_ at seven A.M.; went on shore again at
+nine, and stopped all day. Dined and slept on board; rough living
+here, but no cattle, which is a great thing.--26th. Set sail at eleven
+A.M.; fair wind; fine day, and very hot.--27th. Rain all night; wind
+light and variable, and one made but little progress. Cape Bona still
+close to us this morning. We are only going at three and three-quarter
+knots per hour. A fine breeze got up at twelve, and at seven we passed
+Panteleria Isle, going at seven knots.--28th. Wind fell away early
+this morning, and about eleven blew strong from the east: the worst
+quarter it could for us.--29th. This accursed wind has lasted all
+night, and blows harder this morning; the sea, too, is very high. It
+is intensely miserable; rough sea, bad grub, no one to talk to, no
+books, and no idea when we shall reach Malta.--30th. East wind still;
+an almighty swell on; one can neither sit, lie, nor stand with
+comfort. The coast of Sicily is very plain this morning. We are about
+forty-five miles from Malta, but no one can say when we shall reach
+it. Fresh provisions have nearly come to an end. Let any one ever
+catch me on board a sailing-ship again, unless I am forced.--1st. Half
+a gale, and a heavy sea last night; got no sleep, as the ship jumped
+so; and the mattress--fancy now!--is stuffed with sticks, and is so
+cursedly hard, that, after five days of it, one's bones ache all over.
+A very fine day; but this awful wind still east. At eleven A.M. we
+were off Gozo, only twenty miles from our destination; but it was
+impossible to get there. The diet and food on board are awful; I am
+nearly starved. There was only one thing amusing. A Maltese, who slept
+in the other berth near me, sneezed nine times in as many minutes;
+and, after each sternutation, he went through a short formula of
+prayer, beginning 'Santo Something,' to keep the devil to leeward, I
+suppose; and, egad, I think he must have been on board _in propria
+persona_, under some disguise, to have caused us so bad a passage.
+This afternoon, to vary the programme pleasantly, we had a dead calm.
+Our miseries seem to have no end. I begin to think I shall rival the
+'Flying Dutchman,' and never make my port, but sail on for ever.--2nd.
+A north-west wind sprang up at five P.M., and we reached Malta at
+seven."
+
+Thus, the sailing-vessel took seven days to do what I did in thirty
+hours on the steamer. After the usual amount of driving, dining, &c.,
+at Malta, in the words of the poet I bid
+
+    Adieu to joys of La Valette,
+    Adieu, sirocco, sun, and sweat;
+    Adieu, ye females without graces,
+    Adieu, red coats and redder faces;
+    Adieu, the supercilious air
+    Of those that strut _en militaire_.
+
+And now the word is "homeward;" and across a track well known to the
+English tourist, we journey onward, till
+
+    The mountains of Trieste afar are seen,
+    And farther yet, the Alps, whose highest peak
+    Now glitters with a gay and snowy sheen
+    In the bright sun; as quick our sailors seek
+    An anchorage in the port, where Turk and Greek,
+    Swede and Levantine, and full many more,
+    The haughty Spaniard, and the German sleek,
+    All races, from the Nile unto the Nore,
+    Into Trieste, in many a varied costume pour.
+
+    Along thy silent streets I wander now,
+    Venice, once queen, aye, empress of the sea!
+    Fairest in art as clime, yet sunk so low
+    Beneath the despot Teuton's rule, I see
+    Thy halls deserted, fallen, yet in thee
+    Much splendour to admire there still exists.
+    Well could I quit my native land, and flee
+    The rugged northern clime, the vapid mists,
+    With thee to dwell, did I that only what me lists.
+
+    The fiery car speeds on her iron way,
+    Through hill, o'er valley quickly do we fly.
+    There lies the grot of Adelberg, and day
+    Sees us past Gratze's fortress hasten by
+    Like lightning's flash, nor stop until we spy
+    St. Stephen's dome from out the darkness peer.
+    Like _bas reliefs_ her turrets in the sky
+    O'ertop Vienna, great the pious fear
+    Of holy men, who such vast beauteous structures rear.
+
+    There Coeur de Lion lived and almost died,
+    In yonder ruin gray o'erbent by time,
+    But that a troubadour, a servant tried,
+    His well-loved master sought through every clime;
+    Nor sought in vain, for by a simple rhyme,
+    A soft tuned sonnet, in a dungeon cold,
+    Imprisoned here he found him for no crime,
+    And saved. The ruins past, I now behold
+    Prague's lofty palaces arise, and turrets old.
+
+    The scene is changed by many a lovely vale:
+    Upon the Elbe my rapid way I went,
+    Where Nature reigns supreme, nor aught avail
+    'Gainst her the charms a Raphael's touch can lend
+    To Art's supremest works; these all depend
+    On light, on colour, on the master's hand;
+    Nature's own work, so thought I, as I bend
+    My steps through Dresden's galleries, and stand
+    Before Art's fairest deeds in this fair Saxon land!
+
+    Swift be my verse, and swifter still my pace
+    (Oh, pardon me, for I'll be sworn I bore)
+    By Berlin's quays, past oft a plain, I race
+    To Hamburg's crowded port, until the roar
+    Of ocean's wave is heard again once more.
+    Once more upon the deck I stand and view
+    Behind that cloud arise old Albion's shore--
+    Shore that I love, roast beef, plum-pudding too,
+    Pale ale, the _Times_, and scandal, like a Briton true.
+
+
+
+
+NOTES FOR THE SPORTSMAN OR TOURIST
+IN NORTH AFRICA.
+
+
+The best time to go to Algeria or Tunis is October, when the heats of
+summer begin to become cooler. By all means, let the traveller, if he
+wish to be independent, travel on horseback. In Algeria he will meet
+with accommodation everywhere, and proceed as safely as in London, or
+any part of England.
+
+He can go to Boussada or Laghouat, about six days' journey from
+Algiers, staying every night at caravanserais _en route_. Boussada I
+did not visit myself, but from rumour, I believe, there is excellent
+gazelle shooting in the neighbourhood. By the plains of Boussada, the
+tourist can pass into Tunisia over the French frontier. At Algiers,
+the best hotels are the Hotel d'Orient and the Hotel de la Regence, on
+the Grande Place. For ammunition, I recommend Huet, armourer, near the
+English Consul's; and for horses--Francois or Francisco, a Maltese,
+who speaks French and English. The grand thing to be considered is
+economy of space. Let every necessary for clothing, if possible, be
+crammed into the saddle-bags attached to one's saddle, as ammunition,
+guns, &c. &c., must be placed on the other horses. Well did the
+Romans call baggage by the appellation of _impedimenta_. In this
+country it is so literally, not figuratively. It is absolutely
+necessary to have an interpreter who can talk Arabic; for though in
+Algeria there are many natives who jabber broken French or Italian,
+even this _lingua Franca_ is so disguised that it is almost impossible
+to comprehend them; and in the interior there are very few "indigenes"
+who understand anything but Arabic. In Tunisia nothing but Arabic is
+of any use whatever.
+
+To travel in the interior of Tunis, it is necessary to have a mounted
+escort, and also a letter of recommendation to the "Caids" (mayors) of
+the different towns through which you pass. Here you must expect a
+great want of comfort, as there are no beds, and you generally have to
+sleep on the floor. On the Lake of Tunis, close to the city, there is
+very good flamingo shooting. The flamingoes sit on the water in rows
+like a regiment, and the method I employed in shooting them was as
+follows:--I used to take a boat with my gun loaded with buckshot
+(chevrotine), and my rifle. I fired my rifle at the line of flamingoes
+when about 400 yards off, which used to bring them flying over the
+boat for curiosity, when I managed, generally with my gun, to bring
+down one or two. This is, I am sure, the best way of shooting them,
+though several Europeans told me at Tunis I could shoot them with the
+rifle.
+
+The shortest way direct to Tunis is by Malta; and, in passing, let the
+sporting tourist visit Gozo, where, in April and September, there is
+excellent quail shooting.
+
+The inhabitants of this isle are a simple, primitive race of people,
+very lively and intelligent; they speak nearly a pure Arabic. They
+live chiefly by fishing, and also serve as sailors in foreign vessels,
+where they remain sometimes entire years without being heard of by
+their families. In this way they often find a watery grave; and in the
+isle I met some females, whose male relations had all perished in this
+way.
+
+Navigation appears to have a great charm for these simple islanders;
+and when they sail along these southern waters, where the sun shines
+with a brilliant lustre, and the moon with a fairy splendour, they
+forget not the simple home where the members of their family are
+crouched side by side, enveloped in a sort of bournouse, and drinking
+perhaps tea which differs only nominally from the tepid waters of the
+surrounding ocean, and gabbling a jargon which one can scarcely
+believe that they understand themselves. The charm which binds these
+poor people together in their sober and modest existence is less the
+_penchant_ of natural and intimate affection, than the chain of habit,
+the necessity of a life of fraternal community and sentiment. A
+certain equality of position and social development gives them the
+same desires, the same ends of existence, and like ideas produce an
+easy mutual understanding. Each one reads, as it were, in the eye of
+the other; and when they talk, each knows what the other will say
+almost before he has opened his lips. All the ordinary relations of
+life are thus present to their memory; and so, by a simple intonation
+of the voice, by the expression of the visage, by a mute gesture, they
+excite, _inter se_, as many smiles or tears, more joy or vexation,
+than we, among our equals, could perhaps evoke by the longest
+demonstrations or declarations. For we civilised ones live, on an
+average, in intellectual solitude; each of us, thanks to our
+particular form of mind or education, has received a different bias of
+character; each of us, morally weighed, thinks, acts, and believes
+differently from his neighbour; and hence misunderstandings arise so
+frequently among us, that, even in the largest families, life in
+common becomes difficult, and we are often, as it were, apart, utterly
+unknown one to another, and everywhere feel ourselves as on strange
+territory.
+
+Races, indeed, have lived--aye, for centuries--in a state of community
+of ideas and sentiments such as I have described in the Isle of Gozo.
+Perhaps, but only perhaps, the Roman Church of the Middle Ages wished
+to establish among the nations of Catholic Europe such a state of
+equality and uniformity of spirit. Hence, no doubt, the reason why she
+took under her guardianship all the social relations, all the force
+and manifestations of this life--in fine, man himself, moral and
+physical man. I will not deny, nor will any one else, that much
+peaceful happiness, much piety has been established by these means;
+that human existence in the Middle Ages took an expression of greater
+fervour and intimacy; that the arts, like flowers, mysteriously
+developed, unfolded then, and showed to the day a beauty we now admire
+and deplore, and that the rash and unquiet spirit of modern days
+cannot imitate. But mind has its rights from all eternity; mind will
+not be fettered by dogmas, or lulled to sleep by the ringing of a
+bell; mind has cast aside his swaddling-clothes, and broken the string
+by which his nurse (the Roman Church) held him, and, in the madness
+and intoxication of his holiday, has rounded the globe, has traversed
+all nations, has scaled the Himalayas, and, returning again to Mother
+Earth, has begun to meditate over the wonders of creation by day, and
+the stars of heaven by night. We know not, indeed, nor ever shall,
+perhaps, the number of the stars that shine in the canopy of heaven;
+we have not yet unveiled the dread mysteries of earth or of sea.
+Enough: many enigmas are resolved; we know much--we guess at still
+more. There remains one question unsolved--it is this: Is there more
+real felicity in our minds now than there was in ancient times? I will
+confess that if we look at the many, now-a-days, we could scarcely
+answer this question in the affirmative; yet, it must also be
+remembered that happiness, which is in part due to mental tyranny, is
+scarcely true happiness, and that in the few moments of real
+intellectual dignity some educated man can enjoy more real felicity
+than the uneducated coal-heaver during many years of uninquiring
+tranquillity.
+
+But while, with a certain benevolence, I was dilating on the
+intentions of the Roman Church, I find myself all of a sudden seized
+with a zeal worthy of Exeter Hall. So I return to my Gozo friends.
+Living among these simple, Christian islanders, of Moorish descent,
+one is apt to meditate on the mighty transformations which have swept
+over Europe and left them untouched.
+
+The reason I recommend the route _via_ Malta and Tunis, instead of
+passing by Algiers, as I did, is the miserable accommodation on board
+the steamers between Tunis and Algiers. The passengers on these boats
+are chiefly bagmen and colonists of different nations. We had a
+Savoyard, a Spaniard, and two or three Frenchmen and Italians at one
+table; and the noise, and row, and heat after dinner were very
+edifying. Bottles were quickly emptied, and heads as quickly filled.
+One of the guests sung songs; another neighed; a third shouted in
+tragic verse; a fourth spoke Latin; and a fifth preached temperance; a
+sixth gave himself out for a professor, and his lecture was nearly as
+follows:--"The earth, my friends, is a cylinder, and men are but
+little diminutive dots spread over its surface, apparently at hazard;
+but _voila_, the cylinder takes a fancy to turn, the little dots are
+hustled about, some here, others there, and so emit a sort of
+vibratory sound, some frequently, others more rarely; and this is the
+marvellous, complicated music that men call universal history," &c.
+&c. A fat-looking German, who kept his nose continually dipped in a
+glass of punch, inhaling the steam with a very gratified look,
+observed that he felt as though he was in the refreshment saloon of
+the Berlin theatre; while the Savoyard kept looking at us through his
+glass, as though it were a _lorgnette_, and the red wine streamed down
+his purple cheeks into his gaping jaws.
+
+And now to proceed to matters of sport. With regard to small game,
+partridges, ducks, quails, rabbits, &c., there is abundance to be
+found in Algeria. Near Algiers there is hawking of partridges and hares
+among the Arab tribes; and, before the French occupation, falconry was
+the especial amusement of the Arab aristocracy. For shooting of small
+game I would more especially recommend a caravanserai called Oued el
+Massin, about half way between Milianah and Teniet. Partridges and
+woodcock abound there; the quarters, moreover, are remarkably good,
+and the _cuisine_, superintended by my friend, Mr. Ball, is by no means
+despicable. From Oued el Massin, a day's journey beyond Milianah, I
+am convinced excellent shooting may be obtained with a couple of good
+pointers. Quails are also very numerous. Aquatic birds abound in
+Algeria, more especially on the lake Fetzara, near Bona, in the
+province of Constantine. Nothing is more beautiful than the lake
+Fetzara at sunrise; on its banks are a thousand plants and flowers
+of every colour and hue, and on its waters repose birds of every
+description and plumage. As yet it is dusk; everything animal and
+vegetable is in repose; but with the first ray of the sun come sounds
+and cries of every imaginable description, and thousands, aye,
+myriads, of birds are everywhere on the wing. In the impetuosity of
+their flight, they shake, as it were, the plants and flowers on the
+border of the lake, who thus pay their morning salute to the sun of
+Africa. A small barque, however, advances (_vide_ picture), and from
+this frail skiff suddenly appears the flash of a gun. In a moment the
+whole air is in motion; grebes with their beautiful plumage,
+flamingoes with flaming wings, wild swans, and ducks, and teals, by
+thousands whirl through the air.
+
+Is it really to be believed that Nature has affixed (so to speak) some
+danger to everything charming? One is almost tempted to say so, after
+examining the enchanting borders of this lake, whose azure waters flow
+from the mountainous frontier of Tunisia to the opulent plains of
+Bona. You botanists, who are attracted by the singular colour or
+strange beauty of some plant or flower here, beware how you approach.
+Under this magnificent vegetation a trap--a mortal trap--is laid: the
+banks are of quick-sand! One step, and you meet death--a horrible
+death. The earth gives way, and you disappear without a trace, for
+those delicious flowers and plants close up their ranks again, like
+immortelles over your sepulchre. Listen:--A French cavalry officer
+came from Bona to shoot flamingoes on this lake. He was accompanied by
+his servant, also on horseback. He shot a flamingo, who tumbled just
+on the border of the lake, and dispatched his servant to fetch the
+bird. At three or four yards from the bird, the soldier disappeared
+with his horse; and some Arabs, coming up, at the cries of the officer
+(for the Mussulman believes that the genius of the lake, propitious to
+Mahometans, devours the profane European), with difficulty saved his
+servant. As soon as the soldier was out of danger, he cried out, with
+all the gasconade of a Frenchman, "_Je ne laisserai pas la ce maudit
+oiseau, cause de ma mesaventure!_" In spite of the energetic
+dissuasions of the natives, whom, by the way, he could not understand,
+he advanced on foot; but the earth opened again--he disappeared. One
+moment his head remained above this liquid ground, one moment he cried
+for aid, and the abyss had swallowed its prey. However, at certain
+points, this lake is quite approachable; and, there being several
+barques, excellent sport may be had. I would, however, recommend
+sportsmen to procure a letter of introduction to some neighbouring
+grandee. There is an excellent caravanserai close by, at Ain Mokra.
+For gazelles one must go quite into the interior of the desert--to
+Boussada and Laghouat--in the great Sahara desert. Ghazella is, in
+the Arab language, the synonym for beauty and velocity.
+
+Those persons who really desire sport, however, I would recommend to
+travel from Algiers to Tunisia by land, and, if possible, let them
+pass by Kef, which is the frontier town. In the vicinity of this town
+there are, no doubt, plenty of lions; and my friend (who visited it
+with Dr. Davies, the celebrated explorer and excavator at Carthage)
+heard of several there, though his stay was so short that he did not
+succeed in bagging one. For lion-hunting, as for many other things,
+"_il faut bien de la patience_." Thus it very frequently happens that
+a man may search without success for months and months for the
+whereabouts of a lion, and then, suddenly, when your hunter is least
+prepared for it, and perhaps unarmed, the monarch of the desert will
+present himself to his astonished gaze. Notwithstanding the formidable
+character attributed to the lion, he will rarely attack any man unless
+previously molested. There are three sorts of lions in North
+Africa--the black, the tawny, and the grey, though the latter is by
+some supposed to be the same genus as the tawny, only grizzled by age.
+There are two ways of hunting the lion, by day and by night. That by
+day is by battue, when a whole tribe turns out to "beard the lion in
+his den" and make him break cover. Those who are well armed are posted
+at the outlets of the cover or beaten tracks by which the lion
+generally passes; any Europeans who assist are usually so stationed;
+they, however, need have but little fear, for the monarch almost
+always attacks the _tawny_ native by preference. Is it from sympathy
+of colour, _similia similibus gaudent_, or from a sort of instinct
+that the European is better armed, or because he supposes the Arab
+will make a better repast? The other way of killing the lion is in
+ambuscade, of which there are two or three kinds. Sometimes the
+hunters dig a hole in the ground near the spot where the lion is in
+the habit of passing by night; over this hole they throw branches of
+trees, which they cover with stones and mortar; they then place some
+bait near, which can be commanded through holes made in the covering,
+and when the lion approaches to examine the carcase, he is immediately
+brought down. Another way of shooting is from a tree. My friend, Count
+Zamoyski, who has a residence at the Lake Fetzara, shot several in
+this way. I will, however, refer the reader to Jules Gerard's book for
+a description of this kind of sport. I did not stay long enough in
+North Africa to be able to judge of it myself. What I recount now with
+regard to lion hunting is from hearsay, not from personal experience.
+
+The panther is a more dangerous animal than the lion, and much more
+cunning. Like his relative, the cat, he is very difficult to kill, and
+it must be a well-directed ball through the head or heart that will
+prevent him from avenging his wound. For the rest, he is hunted much
+as the lion. I will not mention the jackal and hyena, both of which
+animals can be shot after dusk from the tent or hut, by throwing out
+some carcase or bait before sunset to attract them. Let us pass to
+that animal which, in my opinion, of all creatures presents by far the
+best sport on the coast of Barbary--I mean, of course, the wild boar,
+or halouf, as he is called in the Arabic language.
+
+I had long had a desire to hunt the halouf. On my arrival at the
+Caid's house at Solyman (about twenty miles from Tunis), an old Arab
+named Mahmoud was sent for, who was reported to be, like Nimrod, a
+mighty hunter before the Lord and before the tribes.
+
+The next day we started before sunrise to the river, where the boar
+was supposed to be.
+
+_En route_ I questioned my Arab by interpreter. "The halouf," he
+replied, "when wounded, is as dangerous as the lion. I have," he
+continued, "myself seen a boar repulse the attack of a young lion."
+
+Of boars there are no doubt plenty in Tunisia. They are fond of lying
+in the thickest brushwood, what the French call _broussailles_, and
+the main difficulty is to drive them out. It requires some one
+perfectly conversant with Arabic, and having some authority over the
+natives, to make them beat properly; otherwise, in a short time they
+will give over, and pretend that there is nothing there. The best
+localities for boar are near Solyman, in Tunisia, and Biserta, about
+fifty miles from Tunis. As for Algeria, the country is now so much
+frequented by Europeans of all nations, who frighten, if they do not
+kill, the game, that one has to go a long way into the interior before
+any sport can be met with.
+
+The French talk a great deal about "_la chasseaux pantheres_" and "_la
+chasse aux lions_," &c. &c.; but, in my humble opinion, their forte is
+"_la chasse aux dames_" or, in plain Saxon English, the success of the
+"_salon_." Let me conclude with a few words regarding regimen. In this
+burning climate, above all things observe temperance. I do not mean by
+that expression that you must be a teetotaller, but the more you can
+abstain from heating liquids or solids, the better. The other extreme,
+too, is bad; too much lemonade, or water, or sherbet, is apt to
+produce diarrhoea. Nature seems to have indicated to the Arabs the
+best beverage in this zone, both to quench thirst and to preserve
+health, viz., coffee; but as on a march or out shooting you cannot
+always stop to have a fire lit, the next best drink is a little weak
+brandy and water, which you should carry from where you start in the
+morning, as the water of the rivers is pestiferous. To avoid fever or
+malaria, I would always take a small quantity of bark of quinine.
+During the time I was in Africa I enjoyed most excellent health, as I
+believe everybody may who takes the commonest precautions, and does
+not indulge, as he may with impunity in more northern climes.
+
+Finally, let me give one piece of advice to the sportsman. If he
+comes to these countries with the expectation that he can, as in
+England, go out with his gun of a morning and return with his bag full
+in the evening to a capital dinner, he had better stay at home. To do
+anything in this country, a man must make his mind up to long and
+fatiguing marches in the heat of the day, with miserable quarters
+often at night, in places infested by vermin of every description; in
+a word, he must be content to rough it. I will also candidly own that,
+from the accounts I had previously received, I was very much
+disappointed as regards the quantity of large game to be found in
+these parts; still, I was, to a certain extent, indemnified for this
+by the pleasure of visiting a beautiful country, a remarkable people,
+and magnificent scenery, the entire appearance of which is utterly
+unlike what one is accustomed to see in the hackneyed countries of
+modern continental Europe.
+
+
+
+
+ITINERARY CARTE.
+
+
+ROUTE--from London to Marseilles, about forty-eight hours. Marseilles,
+Hotel d'Orient.
+
+Marseilles to Algiers, average passage, three days. Hotels--Hotel de
+la Regence and Hotel de Paris, both good.
+
+Algiers to Blidah--horse or diligence--about five hours; Blidah to
+Medeah--horse or diligence--about eight hours; Blidah to Milianah,
+about fourteen hours. Blidah--Hotel de la Regence; Medeah--Hotel du
+Gastronome; Milianah--Hotel d'Iffly.
+
+Milianah to Teniet, two days, staying at Oued el Massin, caravanserai;
+Teniet to Boghar, two days; Boghar to Laghouat, extremity of French
+frontier in Great Sahara Desert, three days.
+
+From there visit Boussada for Gargelles, thence to Constantine, five
+days; Constantine to Lake Fetzara and Bona, one day. Bona--Hotel de
+France.
+
+Another way, is to return to Algiers and proceed by sea to Bona,
+passing Boujie, and Djidjelli, and Philippeville, about forty-eight
+hours.
+
+From Bona to Tunis, by sea, about eighteen hours; or by land, _via_
+Keff, the frontier town of Tunisia and Algeria, about six days; an
+escort required. Tunis--Hotel de France.
+
+Tunis to Solyman, four hours; Tunis to Biserta, fourteen hours.
+
+On horseback, take two flannel shirts, one change of boots, and
+bournouse, &c. Average expense per diem, with horse and servant,
+twenty-five francs. I had three horses and one interpreter, and my
+expenses averaged L1 10s. _par jour_.
+
+
+
+
+THE END.
+
+
+PETTER AND GALPIN, BELLE SAUVAGE PRINTING WORKS, LUDGATE HILL, E.C.
+
+
+
+
+                  *       *       *       *       *
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+
+  Illustrations have been moved closer to their relevant paragraphs.
+  The page numbers in the List of Illustrations do not reflect the new
+  placement of the illustrations, but are as in the original.
+
+  Author's archaic and variable spelling and hyphenation is
+  preserved.
+
+  Author's punctuation style is preserved.
+
+  Passages in italics indicated by _underscores_.
+
+  Passages in bold indicated by =equal signs=.
+
+  Typographical problems have been changed and are listed below.
+
+
+Transcriber's Changes:
+
+
+  Page 5: Original Table of Contents lists Chapter III as page 17.
+
+  Page 8: Was 'unhapy' (his cutting sarcasm, and the =unhappy=
+          frivolity which defaces the works of the man)
+
+  Page 30: Was 'Kadir' (FURTHER EXPERIENCES:--Abd-el-=Kader= (but not
+           the Emir)--Difficult Road)
+
+  Page 33: Was 'twent' (The Arab had fired at the brute at =twenty=
+           paces, but missed his aim.)
+
+  Page 85: Was 'mattrass' (and the =mattress=--fancy now!--is stuffed
+           with sticks, and is so cursedly hard)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Notes in North Africa, by W. G. Windham
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NOTES IN NORTH AFRICA ***
+
+***** This file should be named 30581.txt or 30581.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/5/8/30581/
+
+Produced by Dan Horwood and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at
+http://gutenberg.org/license).
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS' WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need, are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation web page at http://www.pglaf.org.
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at
+http://pglaf.org/fundraising.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at
+809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email
+business@pglaf.org.  Email contact links and up to date contact
+information can be found at the Foundation's web site and official
+page at http://pglaf.org
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit http://pglaf.org
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit: http://pglaf.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart is the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     http://www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/30581.zip b/30581.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7741528
--- /dev/null
+++ b/30581.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4ec74f6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #30581 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/30581)