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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/36675-8.txt b/36675-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6d4b146 --- /dev/null +++ b/36675-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,10716 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Scenes and Adventures in the Semi-Alpine +Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas, by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Scenes and Adventures in the Semi-Alpine Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas + +Author: Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +Release Date: July 9, 2011 [EBook #36675] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + +[Illustration: POTOSI _alias Mine à Burlon_.] + + + + + SCENES + + AND + + ADVENTURES + + IN THE + + Semi-Alpine Region + + OF THE + + OZARK MOUNTAINS OF MISSOURI + + AND ARKANSAS, + + WHICH WERE FIRST TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO, IN 1541. + + + + + BY HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT. + + + + + PHILADELPHIA: + LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO & CO. + 1853. + + + + + Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by + + HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT, + + in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court + for the District of Columbia. + + + + + Dedication. + + ~~~~~~~~~~~ + + _To the Memory_ + + OF + + DE WITT CLINTON, + + LATE GOVERNOR OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK, &C. &C. &C., + + AN EARLY FRIEND, DURING THE YEARS DEVOTED TO THESE EXCURSIONS + INTO THE GREAT AREA OF THE WEST;-- + + A MAN WHO WAS EMINENT IN VARIOUS WALKS OF LIFE;-- + + WHO, BY HIS EXALTED FORECAST, WISE COUNSELS, AND STEADY POLICY, + CONTRIBUTED TO THE HIGHEST BENEFITS AND RENOWN OF HIS + NATIVE STATE;-- + + THESE RECORDS OF INCIDENTS OF EXPLORATORY TRAVEL, + ARE DEDICATED WITH THE SINCEREST SENTIMENTS OF RESPECT AND REGARD + FOR HIS CHARACTER AND NAME, + WHICH I EVER ENTERTAINED FOR HIM WHILE LIVING, + AND CONTINUE TO CHERISH NOW THAT HE IS DEAD. + + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +These early adventures in the Ozarks comprehend my first exploratory +effort in the great area of the West. To traverse the plains and +mountain elevations west of the Mississippi, which had once echoed the +tramp of the squadrons of De Soto--to range over hills, and through +rugged defiles, which he had once searched in the hope of finding mines +of gold and silver rivalling those of Mexico and Peru; and this, too, +coming as a climax to the panorama of a long, long journey from the +East--constituted an attainment of youthful exultation and +self-felicitation, which might have been forgotten with its termination. +But the incidents are perceived to have had a value of a different kind. +They supply the first attempt to trace the track of the Spanish +cavaliers west of the Mississippi. The name of De Soto is inseparably +connected with the territorial area of Missouri and Arkansas, which he +was the first European to penetrate, and in the latter of which he died. + +Four-and-thirty years have passed away, since the travels here brought +to view, were terminated. They comprise a period of exciting and +startling events in our history, social and political. With the +occupancy of Oregon, the annexation of Texas, the discoveries in +California, and the acquisition of New Mexico, the very ends of the +Union appear to have been turned about. And the lone scenes and +adventures of a man on a then remote frontier, may be thought to have +lost their interest. But they are believed to possess a more permanent +character. It is the first and _only_ attempt to identify De Soto's +march west of the Mississippi; and it recalls reminiscences of scenes +and observations which belong to the history of the discovery and +settlement of the country. + +Little, it is conceived, need be said, to enable the reader to determine +the author's position on the frontiers of Missouri and Arkansas in 1818. +He had passed the summer and fall of that year in investigating the +geological structure and mineral resources of the lead-mine district of +Missouri. He had discovered the isolated primitive tract on the sources +of the St. Francis and Grand rivers--the "Coligoa" of the Spanish +adventurer--and he felt a strong impulse to explore the regions west of +it, to determine the extent of this formation, and fix its geological +relations between the primitive ranges of the Alleghany and Rocky +mountains. + +Reports represented it as an alpine tract, abounding in picturesque +valleys and caves, and replete with varied mineral resources, but +difficult to penetrate on account of the hostile character of the Osage +and Pawnee Indians. He recrossed the Mississippi to the American bottom +of Illinois, to lay his plan before a friend and fellow-traveller in an +earlier part of his explorations, Mr. Ebenezer Brigham, of +Massachusetts, who agreed to unite in the enterprise. He then proceeded +to St. Louis, where Mr. Pettibone, a Connecticut man, and a +fellow-voyager on the Alleghany river, determined also to unite in this +interior journey. The place of rendezvous was appointed at Potosi, +about forty miles west of the Mississippi. Each one was to share in the +preparations, and some experienced hunters and frontiersmen were to join +in the expedition. But it turned out, when the day of starting arrived, +that each one of the latter persons found some easy and good excuse for +declining to go, principally on the ground that they were poor men, and +could not leave supplies for their families during so long a period of +absence. Both the other gentlemen came promptly to the point, though one +of them was compelled by sickness to return; and my remaining companion +and myself plunged into the wilderness with a gust of adventure and +determination, which made amends for whatever else we lacked. + +It is only necessary to add, that the following journal narrates the +incidents of the tour. The narrative is drawn up from the original +manuscript journal in my possession. Outlines of parts of it, were +inserted in the pages of the Belles-lettres Repository, by Mr. Van +Winkle, soon after my return to New York, in 1819; from whence they were +transferred by Sir Richard Phillips to his collection of Voyages and +Travels, London, 1821. This latter work has never been republished in +the United States. + +In preparing the present volume, after so considerable a lapse of time, +it has been thought proper to omit all such topics as are not deemed of +permanent or historical value. The scientific facts embraced in the +appendix, on the mines and mineralogy of Missouri, are taken from my +publication on these subjects. In making selections and revisions from a +work which was at first hastily prepared, I have availed myself of the +advantage of subsequent observation on the spot, as well as of the +suggestions and critical remarks made by men of judgment and science. + +A single further remark may be made: The term Ozark is applied to a +broad, elevated district of highlands, running from north to south, +centrally, through the States of Missouri and Arkansas. It has on its +east the striking and deep alluvial tract of the Mississippi river, and, +on its west, the woodless buffalo plains or deserts which stretch below +the Rocky Mountains. The Osage Indians, who probably furnish origin for +the term, have occupied all its most remarkable gorges and eminences, +north of the Arkansas, from the earliest historical times; and this +tribe, with the Pawnees ("Apana"), are supposed to have held this +position ever since the days of De Soto. + + WASHINGTON, January 20, 1853. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + INTRODUCTION Page 13 + + + CHAPTER I. + + Junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi--Difficulty of Ascending + the latter with a Barge--Its turbid and rapid Character--Incidents + of the Voyage--Physical Impediments to its Navigation--Falling-in + Banks--Tiawapati--Animals--Floating Trees--River at Night--Needless + and laughable Alarm--Character of the Shores--Men give out--Reach + the first fast Lands--Mineral Products--Cape Girardeau--Moccasin + Spring--Non-poetic geographical Names--Grand Tower--Struggle to + pass Cape Garlic. 22 + + + CHAPTER II. + + Pass Cape Garlic--Obrazo River--Cliffs--Emigrants--Cape St. Comb + --Bois Brule Bottom--Paroquet--Fort Chartres--Kaskaskia--St. + Genevieve--M. Breton--The Mississippi deficient in Fish-- + Antiquities--Geology--Steamer--Herculaneum--M. Austin, Esq., the + Pioneer to Texas--Journey on foot to St. Louis--Misadventures on + the Maramec--Its Indian Name--Carondelet--St. Louis, its fine Site + and probable future Importance--St. Louis Mounds not artificial-- + Downward Pressure of the diluvial Drift of the Mississippi. 32 + + + CHAPTER III. + + Resolve to proceed further West--Night Voyage on the Mississippi + in a Skiff--An Adventure--Proceed on foot West to the Missouri + Mines--Incidents by the Way--Miners' Village of Shibboleth-- + Compelled by a Storm to pass the Night at Old Mines--Reach Potosi + --Favourable Reception by the mining Gentry--Pass several Months + in examining the Mines--Organize an Expedition to explore Westward + --Its Composition--Discouragements on setting out--Proceed, + notwithstanding--Incidents of the Journey to the Valley of Leaves. 43 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + Horses elope--Desertion of our Guide--Encamp on one of the Sources + of Black River--Head-waters of the River Currents--Enter a + romantic Sub-Valley--Saltpetre Caves--Description of Ashley's Cave + --Encampment there--Enter an elevated Summit--Calamarca, an unknown + Stream--encounter four Bears--North Fork of White River. 54 + + + CHAPTER V. + + Descend the Valley--Its Difficulties--Horse rolls down a Precipice + --Purity of the Water--Accident caused thereby--Elkhorn Spring-- + Tower Creek--Horse plunges over his depth in Fording, and destroys + whatever is deliquescent in his pack--Absence of Antiquities, or + Evidences of ancient Habitation--a remarkable Cavern--Pinched for + Food--Old Indian Lodges--The Beaver--A deserted Pioneer's Camp-- + Incident of the Pumpkin. 65 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Abandon our Camp and Horse in search of Settlements--Incidents of + the first Day--Hear a Shot--Camp in an old Indian Lodge--Acorns + for Supper--Kill a Woodpecker--Incidents of the second Day-- + Sterile Ridges--Want of Water--Camp at Night in a deep Gorge-- + Incidents of the third Day--Find a Horse-path, and pursue it-- + Discover a Man on Horseback--Reach a Hunter's Cabin--Incidents + there--He conducts us back to our old Camp--Deserted there without + Provisions--Deplorable State--Shifts--Taking of a Turkey. 74 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + Proceed West--Bog our Horse--Cross the Knife Hills--Reach the + Unica, or White River--Abandon the Horse at a Hunter's, and + proceed with Packs--Objects of Pity--Sugar-Loaf Prairie--Camp + under a Cliff--Ford the Unica twice--Descend into a Cavern-- + Reach Beaver River, the highest Point of Occupancy by a Hunter + Population. 83 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Obstacle produced by the Fear of Osage Hostility--Means pursued to + overcome it--Natural Monuments of Denudation in the Limestone + Cliffs--Purity of the Water--Pebbles of Yellow Jasper--Complete + the Hunters' Cabins--A Job in Jewellery--Construct a Blowpipe from + Cane--What is thought of Religion. 93 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Proceed into the Hunting-Country of the Osages--Diluvial Hills and + Plains--Bald Hill--Swan Creek--Osage Encampments--Form of the + Osage Lodge--The Habits of the Beaver--Discover a remarkable Cavern + in the Limestone Rock, having natural Vases of pure Water--Its + geological and metalliferous Character--Reach the Summit of the + Ozark Range, which is found to display a broad Region of fertile + Soil, overlying a mineral Deposit. 101 + + + CHAPTER X. + + Depart from the Cave--Character of the Hunters who guided the + Author--Incidents of the Route--A beautiful and fertile Country, + abounding in Game--Reach the extreme north-western Source of White + River--Discoveries of Lead-ore in a Part of its Bed--Encamp, and + investigate its Mineralogy--Character, Value, and History of the + Country--Probability of its having been traversed by De Soto in + 1541. 109 + + + CHAPTER XI. + + Severe winter Weather on the Summit of the Ozarks--False Alarm of + Indians--Danger of my Furnace, etc., being hereafter taken for + Antiquities--Proceed South--Animal Tracks in the Snow--Winoca or + Spirit Valley--Honey and the Honey-Bee--Buffalo-Bull Creek--Robe + of Snow--Mehausca Valley--Superstitious Experiment of the Hunters + --Arrive at Beaver Creek. 115 + + + CHAPTER XII. + + Descend White River in a Canoe--Its pure Water, Character, and + Scenery--Places of Stopping--Bear Creek--Sugar-Loaf Prairie--Big + Creek--A River Pedlar--Pot Shoals--Mouth of Little North Fork-- + Descend formidable Rapids, called the Bull Shoals--Stranded on + Rocks--A Patriarch Pioneer--Mineralogy--Antique Pottery and Bones + --Some Trace of De Soto--A Trip by Land--Reach the Mouth of the + Great North Fork. 120 + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Detention at the Mouth of the Great North Fork--Natural History of + the Vicinity--Great Blocks of Quartz--Imposing Precipices of the + Calico Rock--A Characteristic of American Scenery--Cherokee + Occupancy of the Country between the White and Arkansas Rivers-- + Its Effects on the Pioneers--Question of the Fate of the Indian + Races--Iron-ore--Descent to the Arkansas Ferries--Leave the River + at this Point--Remarks on its Character and Productions. 128 + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Ancient Spot of De Soto's crossing White River in 1542--Lameness + produced by a former Injury--Incidents of the Journey to the St. + Francis River--De Soto's ancient Marches and Adventures on this + River in the search after Gold--Fossil Salt--Copper--The ancient + Ranges of the Buffalo. 134 + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Proceed North--Incidents of the Route--A severe Tempest of Rain, + which swells the Stream--Change in the Geology of the Country-- + The ancient Coligoa of De Soto--A primitive and mineral Region-- + St. Michael--Mine a La Motte--Wade through Wolf Creek--A Deserted + House--Cross Grand River--Return to Potosi. 142 + + + PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST. + + Two Letters, addressed to the Hon. J. B. Thomas, U. S. Senate, + Washington. 146 + + + APPENDIX. + + MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES. + + 1. A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri. 153 + + 2. A Catalogue of the Minerals of the Mississippi Valley. 198 + + 3. Mineral Resources of the Western Country. A Letter to Gen. + C. G. Haines. 215 + + + GEOGRAPHY. + + 1. Missouri. 222 + + 2. Hot Springs of Washita. 231 + + 3. Memoir of White River. 233 + + 4. List of Steamboats on the Mississippi River in 1819. 239 + + + ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY. + + 1. Articles of curious Workmanship found in ancient Indian Graves. 241 + + 2. Ancient Indian Cemetery found in the Maramec Valley. 243 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +De Soto, in 1541, was the true discoverer of the Mississippi river, and +the first person who crossed it, who has left a narrative of that fact; +although it is evident that Cabaca de Vaca, the noted survivor of the +ill-fated expedition of Narvaez in 1528, must, in his extraordinary +pilgrimage between Florida and the eastern coasts of the gulf of +California, have crossed this river, perhaps before him; but he has not +distinctly mentioned it in his memoir. Narvaez himself was not the +discoverer of the mouth of the Mississippi, as some persons have +conjectured, inasmuch as he was blown off the coast and lost, east of +that point. The most careful tracing of the narrative of his voyage in +boats along the Florida shore, as given by De Vaca, does not carry him +beyond Mobile bay, or, at farthest, Perdido bay.[1] + +De Soto's death frustrated his plan of founding a colony of Spain in the +Mississippi valley; and that stream was allowed to roll its vast volume +into the gulf a hundred and thirty-two years longer, before it attracted +practical notice. Precisely at the end of this time, namely, in 1673, +Mons. Jolliet, accompanied by James Marquette, the celebrated +enterprising missionary of New France, entered the stream at the +confluence of the Wisconsin, in accordance with the policy, and a plan +of exploration, of the able, brave, and efficient governor-general of +Canada, the Count Frontenac. Marquette and his companion, who was the +chief of the expedition, but whose name has become secondary to his +own, descended it to the mouth of the Arkansas, the identical spot of De +Soto's demise. La Salle, some five or six years later, continued the +discovery to the gulf; and Hennepin extended it upward, from the point +where Marquette had entered it, to the falls of St. Anthony, and the +river St. Francis. And it is from this era of La Salle, the narrators of +whose enlarged plans, civic and ecclesiastical, recognised the Indian +geographical terminology, that it has retained its Algonquin name of +MISSISSIPPI. + +It is by no means intended to follow these initial facts by recitals of +the progress of the subsequent local discoveries in the Mississippi +valley, which were made respectively under French, British, and American +rule. Sufficient is it, for the present purpose, to say, that the thread +of the discovery of the Mississippi, north and west of the points named, +was not taken up effectively, till the acquisition of Louisiana. Mr. +Jefferson determined to explore the newly acquired territories, and +directed the several expeditions of discovery under Lewis and Clark, and +Lieut. Z. M. Pike. The former traced out the Missouri to its sources, +and followed the Columbia to the Pacific; while the latter continued the +discovery of the Mississippi river above St. Anthony's falls where +Hennepin, and perhaps Carver, had respectively left it. The map which +Pike published in 1810 contained, however, an error of a capital +geographical point, in regard to the actual source of the Mississippi. +He placed it in Turtle lake, at the source of Turtle river of upper _Lac +Cedre Rouge_, or Cass lake, which lies in the portage to Red lake of the +great Red River of the North, being in the ordinary route of the fur +trade to that region. + +In 1820, Mr. Calhoun, who determined to erect a cordon of military posts +to cover the remotest of the western settlements, at the same time that +he despatched Major Long to ascend to the Yellowstone of the Missouri, +directed the extreme upper Mississippi to be examined and traced out to +its source. This expedition, led by Gov. Cass, through the upper lakes, +reached the mouth of Turtle river of the large lake beyond the upper +cataract of the Mississippi, which has since borne the name of the +intrepid leader of the party. It was satisfactorily determined that +Turtle lake was not the source, nor even one of the main sources, of the +Mississippi; but that this river was discharged, in the integrity of its +volume, into the western end of Cass lake. To determine this point more +positively, and trace the river to its source, another expedition was +organized by the Department of War in 1832, and committed to me. Taking +up the line of discovery where it had been left in 1820, the river was +ascended up a series of rapids about forty miles north, to a large lake +called the Amigegoma; a few miles above which, it is constituted by two +forks, having a southern and western origin, the largest and longest of +which was found[2] to originate in Itasca lake, in north latitude 37° +13'--a position not far north of Ottertail lake, in the highlands of +HAUTEUR DES TERRES. + +So far as the fact of De Soto's exploration of the country west of the +Mississippi, in the present area of Missouri and Arkansas, is concerned, +it is apprehended that the author of these incidents of travel has been +the first person to identify and explore this hitherto confused part of +the celebrated Spanish explorer's route. This has been traced from the +narrative, with the aid of the Indian lexicography, in the third volume +of his Indian History (p. 50), just published, accompanied by a map of +the entire route, from his first landing on the western head of Tampa +bay. Prior to the recital of these personal incidents, it may serve a +useful purpose to recall the state of geographical information at this +period. + +The enlarged and improved map of the British colonies, with the +geographical and historical analysis, accompanying it, of Lewis Evans, +which was published by B. Franklin in 1754, had a controlling effect on +all geographers and statesmen of the day, and was an important element +in diffusing a correct geographical knowledge of the colonies at large, +and particularly of the great valley of the Mississippi, agreeably to +modern ideas of its physical extent. It was a great work for the time, +and for many years remained the standard of reference. In some of its +features, it was never excelled. Mr. Jefferson quotes it, in his Notes +on Virginia, and draws from it some interesting opinions concerning +Indian history, as in the allusion to the locality and place of final +refuge of the Eries. It was from the period of the publication of this +memoir that the plan of an "Ohio colony," in which Dr. Franklin had an +active agency, appears to have had its origin. + +Lewis Evans was not only an eminent geographer himself, but his map and +memoir, as will appear on reference to them, embrace the discoveries of +his predecessors and contemporary explorers, as Conrad Wiser and others, +in the West. The adventurous military reconnoissance of Washington to +fort Le Boeuf, on lake Erie, was subsequent to this publication. + +Evans's map and analysis, being the best extant, served as the basis of +the published materials used for the topographical guidance of General +Braddock on his march over the Alleghany mountains. Washington, himself +an eminent geographer, was present in that memorable march; and so +judicious and well selected were its movements, through defiles and over +eminences, found to be, that the best results of engineering skill, when +the commissioners came to lay out the great Cumberland road, could not +mend them. Such continued also to be the basis of our general +geographical knowledge of the West, at the period of the final capture +of fort Du Quesne by General Forbes, and the change of its name in +compliment to the eminent British statesman, Pitt. + +The massacre of the British garrison of Michilimackinac in 1763, the +investment of the fort of Detroit in the same year by a combined force +of Indian tribes, and the development of an extensive conspiracy, as it +has been termed, against the western British posts under Pontiac, +constituted a new feature in American history; and the military +expeditions of Cols. Bouquet and Bradstreet, towards the West and +North-west, were the consequence. These movements became the means of a +more perfect geographical knowledge respecting the West than had before +prevailed. Hutchinson's astronomical observations, which were made under +the auspices of Bouquet, fixed accurately many important points in the +Mississippi valley, and furnished a framework for the military narrative +of the expedition. In fact, the triumphant march of Bouquet into the +very strongholds of the Indians west of the Ohio, first brought them +effectually to terms; and this expedition had the effect to open the +region to private enterprise. + +The defeat of the Indians by Major Gladwyn at Detroit had tended to the +same end; and the more formal march of Colonel Bradstreet, in 1764, +still further contributed to show the aborigines the impossibility of +their recovering the rule in the West. Both these expeditions, at +distant points, had a very decided tendency to enlarge the boundaries of +geographical discovery in the West, and to stimulate commercial +enterprise. + +The Indian trade had been carried to fort Pitt the very year of its +capture by the English forces; and it may serve to give an idea of the +commercial daring and enterprise of the colonists to add, that, so early +as 1766, only two years after Bouquet's expedition, the leading house of +Baynton, Wharton & Morgan, of Philadelphia, had carried that branch of +trade through the immense lines of forest and river wilderness to fort +Chartres, the military capital of the Illinois, on the Mississippi.[3] +Its fertile lands were even then an object of scarcely less avidity.[4] +Mr. Alexander Henry had, even a year or two earlier, carried this trade +to Michilimackinac; and the English flag, the symbol of authority with +the tribes, soon began to succeed that of France, far and wide. The +Indians, finding the French flag had really been struck finally, +submitted, and the trade soon fell, in every quarter, into English +hands. + +The American revolution, beginning within ten years of this time, was +chiefly confined to the regions east of the Alleghanies. The war for +territory west of this line was principally carried on by Virginia, +whose royal governors had more than once marched to maintain her +chartered rights on the Ohio. Her blood had often freely flowed on this +border, and, while the great and vital contest still raged in the +Atlantic colonies, she ceased not with a high hand to defend it, +attacked as it was by the fiercest and most deadly onsets of the +Indians. + +In 1780, General George Rogers Clark, the commander of the Virginia +forces, visited the vicinity of the mouth of the Ohio, by order of the +governor of Virginia, for the purpose of selecting the site for a fort, +which resulted in the erection of fort Jefferson, some few miles (I +think) below the influx of the Ohio, on the eastern bank of the +Mississippi. The United States were then in the fifth year of the war of +independence. All its energies were taxed to the utmost extent in this +contest; and not the least of its cares arose from the Indian tribes who +hovered with deadly hostility on its western borders. It fell to the lot +of Clark, who was a man of the greatest energy of character, chivalric +courage, and sound judgment, to capture the posts of Kaskaskia and +Vincennes, in the Illinois, with inadequate forces at his command, and +through a series of almost superhuman toils. And we are indebted to +these conquests for the enlarged western boundary inserted in the +definitive treaty of peace, signed at Paris in 1783. Dr. Franklin, who +was the ablest geographer among the commissioners, made a triumphant use +of these conquests; and we are thus indebted to George Rogers Clark for +the acquisition of the Mississippi valley. + +American enterprise in exploring the country may be said to date from +the time of the building of fort Jefferson; but it was not till the +close of the revolutionary war, in 1783, that the West became the +favorite theatre of action of a class of bold, energetic, and patriotic +men, whose biographies would form a very interesting addition to our +literature. It is to be hoped that such a work may be undertaken and +completed before the materials for it, are beyond our reach. How +numerous this class of men were, and how quickly they were followed by a +hardy and enterprising population, who pressed westward from the +Atlantic borders, may be inferred from the fact that the first State +formed west of the Ohio river, required but twenty years from the treaty +of peace for its complete organization. Local histories and cyclical +memoirs have been published in some parts of the West, which, though +scarcely known beyond the precincts of their origin, possess their chief +value as affording a species of historical material for this +investigation. Pioneer life in the West must, indeed, hereafter +constitute a prolific source of American reminiscence; but it may be +doubted whether any comprehensive work on the subject will be +effectively undertaken, while any of this noble band of public +benefactors are yet on the stage of life. + +The acquisition of Louisiana, in 1803, became the period from which may +be dated the first efforts of the United States' government to explore +the public domain. The great extent of the territory purchased from +France, stretching west to the Pacific ocean--its unknown boundaries on +the south, west, and north--and the importance and variety of its +reputed resources, furnished the subjects which led the Executive, Mr. +Jefferson, to direct its early exploration. The expeditions named of +Lewis and Clark to Oregon, and of Pike to the sources of the +Mississippi, were the consequence. Pike did not publish the results of +his search till 1810. Owing to the death of Governor Meriwether Lewis, a +still greater delay attended the publication of the details of the +former expedition, which did not appear till 1814. No books had been +before published, which diffused so much local geographical knowledge. +The United States were then engaged in the second war with Great +Britain, during which the hostility of the western tribes precluded +explorations, except such as could be made under arms. The treaty of +Ghent brought the belligerent parties to terms; but the intelligence did +not reach the country in season to prevent the battle of New Orleans, +which occurred in January 1815. + +Letters from correspondents in the West, which were often published by +the diurnal press, and the lectures of Mr. W. Darby on western and +general geography, together with verbal accounts and local publications, +now poured a flood of information respecting the fertility and resources +of that region, and produced an extensive current of emigration. +Thousands were congregated at single points, waiting to embark on its +waters. The successful termination of the war had taken away all fear of +Indian hostility. The tribes had suffered a total defeat at all points, +their great leader Tecumseh had fallen, and there was no longer a basis +for any new combinations to oppose the advances of civilization. +Military posts were erected to cover the vast line of frontiers on the +west and north, and thus fully to occupy the lines originally secured by +the treaty of 1783. In 1816, Mr. J. J. Astor, having purchased the +North-west Company's posts, lying south of latitude 49°, established the +central point of his trade at Michilimackinac. A military post was +erected by the government at the falls of St. Anthony, and another at +Council Bluffs on the Missouri. The knowledge of the geography and +resources of the western country was thus practically extended, although +no publication, so far as I am aware, was made on this subject. + +In the fall of 1816, I determined to visit the Mississippi valley--a +resolution which brought me into the situations narrated in the +succeeding volume. In the three ensuing years I visited a large part of +the West, and explored a considerable portion of Missouri and Arkansas, +in which De Soto alone, I believe, had, in 1542, preceded me. My first +publication on the results of these explorations was made at New York, +in 1819. De Witt Clinton was then on the stage of action, and Mr. +Calhoun, with his grasping intellect, directed the energies of the +government in exploring the western domain, which, he foresaw, as he +told me, must exercise a controlling influence on the destinies of +America. + +In the spring of 1818, Major S. H. Long, U. S. A., was selected by the +War Office to explore the Missouri as high as the Yellowstone, and, +accompanied by a corps of naturalists from Philadelphia, set out from +Pittsburgh in a small steamer. The results of this expedition were in +the highest degree auspicious to our knowledge of the actual topography +and natural history of the far West, and mark a period in their +progress. It was about this time that Colonel H. Leavenworth was +directed to ascend the Mississippi, and establish a garrison at the +mouth of the St. Peter's or Minnesota river. Early in 1820, the War +Department directed an exploratory expedition to be organized at +Detroit, under the direction of Lewis Cass, Esq., Governor of Michigan +Territory, for the purpose of surveying the upper lakes, and determining +the area at the sources of the Mississippi--its physical character, +topography, and Indian population. In the scientific corps of this +expedition, I received from the Secretary of War the situation of +mineralogist and geologist, and published a narrative of it. This +species of public employment was repeated in 1821, during which I +explored the Miami of the Lakes, and the Wabash and Illinois; and my +position assumed a permanent form, in another department of the service, +in 1822, when I took up my residence in the great area of the upper +lakes. + +It is unnecessary to the purposes of this sketch to pursue these details +further than to say, that the position I occupied was favorable to the +investigation of the mineral constitution and natural history of the +country, and also of the history, antiquities, and languages and +customs, of the Indian tribes. For a series of years, the name of the +author has been connected with the progress of discovery and research on +these subjects. Events controlled him in the publication of separate +volumes of travels, some of which were, confessedly, incomplete in their +character, and hasty in their preparation. Had he never trespassed on +public attention in this manner, he would not venture, with his present +years, and more matured conceptions of a species of labor, where the +difficulties are very great, the chances of applause doubtful, and the +rewards, under the most favorable auspices, very slender. As it is, +there is a natural desire that what has been done, and may be quoted +when he has left this feverish scene and gone to his account, should be +put in the least exceptionable form. Hence the revision of these +travels. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Vide Narr. of Cabaca de Vaca, Smith's Tr., 1851. + +[2] 291 years after De Soto's discovery, and 159 after Marquette's. + +[3] MS. Journal of Matthew Clarkson, in the possession of Wm. Duane, +Esq., Philadelphia. + +[4] Ibid. + + + + +INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + JUNCTION OF THE OHIO WITH THE MISSISSIPPI--DIFFICULTY OF + ASCENDING THE LATTER WITH A BARGE--ITS TURBID AND RAPID + CHARACTER--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--PHYSICAL IMPEDIMENTS + TO ITS NAVIGATION--FALLING-IN BANKS--TIAWAPATI--ANIMALS + --FLOATING TREES--RIVER AT NIGHT--NEEDLESS AND LAUGHABLE + ALARM--CHARACTER OF THE SHORES--MEN GIVE OUT--REACH THE + FIRST FAST LANDS--MINERAL PRODUCTS--CAPE GIRARDEAU-- + MOCCASIN SPRING--NON-POETIC GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES--GRAND + TOWER--STRUGGLE TO PASS CAPE GARLIC. + + +I reached the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi on the last day +of June, 1818, with feelings somewhat akin to those of one who performs +a pilgrimage;--for that Algonquin name of Mississippi had been floating +through my mind ever since boyhood, as if it had been invested with a +talismanic power. + +The reading of books of geography, however, makes but a feeble +impression on the mind, compared to the actual objects. Born on one of +the tributaries of the Hudson--a stream whose whole length, from the +junction of the Mohawk, is less than two hundred miles--I had never +figured to myself rivers of such magnificent length and velocity. I had +now followed down the Ohio, in all its windings, one thousand miles; it +was not only the longest, but the most beautiful river which I had ever +seen; and I felt something like regret to find it at last swallowed up, +as it were, by the turbid and repulsive Mississippi. The latter was at +its summer flood, and rushed by like a torrent, which seemed to be +overcharged with the broken-down materials of half a continent. + +De Soto had been the first European to gaze upon this heady mass of +waters, urging downward everything that comes within their influence, +and threatening to carry even their own banks into the gulf. We came, in +a large, heavily-manned barge, to the very point of the influx of the +Ohio, where Cairo is now located. It was early in the afternoon; but the +captain of our craft, who was a stout-hearted fellow, of decision of +character and a full-toned voice, deemed it best to come-to here, and +wait till morning to grapple with the Mississippi. There were some old +arks on the point, which had been landed in high water, and were now +used as houses; but I retained my berth in the barge, and, after looking +around the vicinity, amused myself by angling from the sides of the +vessel. The only fish I caught was a gar--that almost single variety of +the voracious species in these waters, which has a long bill, with sharp +teeth, for arousing its prey, apparently, from a muddy bottom. The +junction of two such streams as the Ohio and Mississippi, exhibits a +remarkable struggle. For miles, along the eastern shores of the +Mississippi, the clear blue waters of the Ohio are crowded to the banks; +while the furious current of the former, like some monster, finally +gulps it down, though the mastery is not obtained, I am told, till near +the Chickasaw bluffs. + +Early in the morning (1st July), the voice of the captain was heard, and +the men paraded the sides of the deck, with their long poles shod with +iron; and we were soon in the gurgling, muddy channel, struggling along +its eastern shore. The men plied their poles with the skill of veterans, +planting them as near the margin of the channel as possible, and placing +the head of the pole against the shoulder, while they kept their footing +by means of slats nailed across the footway. With every exertion, we +made but five miles the first day. This slowness of ascent was, however, +very favorable to observation. I was the only passenger on board, except +two adventurers from the Youghioghany, in Western Pennsylvania, who had +freighted the barge, and were in the position of supercargoes. Such +tugging and toiling I had never before seen. It seemed to me that no set +of men could long stand it. The current ran as if it were charged with +power to sweep everything down its course. Its banks were not proof +against this impetuosity, and frequently fell in, with a noise and power +which threatened to overwhelm us. This danger was often increased by the +floating trees, which had fallen into the stream at higher points. And +when, after a severe day's toil, the captain ordered the boat to be +moored for the night, we felt an insecurity from the fear that the bank +itself might prove treacherous before morning. + +Nothing in the structure of the country appeared to present a very fixed +character. The banks of the river were elevated from ten to fifteen feet +above the water, and consisted of a dark alluvium, bearing a dense +forest. When they became too precipitous, which was an indication that +the water at these points was too deep for the men to reach bottom with +their poles, they took their oars, and crossed to the other bank. When +night came on, in these damp alluvions, and darkness was added to our +danger, the scene was indeed gloomy. I remember, this evening, we tried +most perseveringly to drink our tea by a feeble light, which appeared to +be a signal for the collection of insects far and near, who, by their +numbers and the fierceness of their attacks, made it impossible to bring +our cups to our mouths without stopping to brush away the fierce and +greedy hordes of mosquitoes. Amongst the growth, cane and cotton-wood +were most conspicuous. + +I had a specimen of boatman manners to-day, which should not certainly +be a subject of surprise, considering the rough-and-ready life and +character of that class. Having laid down on the top deck of the barge a +mineralogical specimen to which I attached value, and gone temporarily +away, I found, on my return, that it had been knocked to pieces by one +of the men, who acted, probably, like the boy who broke the fiddle, "to +get the music out" of it. On expressing my disapproval of this, to one +who evidently had not the most distant idea of the scientific value of +"a stone," he made some trite remark, that "there was more where this +came from," and then, stretching himself up at his full length of six +feet, with sinews which had plainly become tense and hard from the use +of the setting-pole, he exclaimed, "Help yourself!" + + +July 2d. The toils of this day were similar to those of the last. It was +a perpetual struggle to overcome the force of the current by poles +placed in the bed, and, when that became too deep, we sought for +shallower shores. We encountered the same growth of trees along the +banks. The land became somewhat more elevated. The insects were in such +hordes, that it was amazing. We proceeded but about six miles to-day, +and they were miles of incessant toil. + + +July 3d. To the ordinary dangers and efforts of this day, were added the +frequent occurrence of snags and sawyers, or planters--terms which +denote some of the peculiar impediments of Mississippi navigation. The +captain of our craft, who was a courageous and vigilant man, was +continually on the look-out to avoid these dangers, and put-to, at +night, at the foot of a large cane-covered island, by which he avoided, +in some measure, the sweep of the current, but was yet in jeopardy from +falling-in banks. He requested me, in this exigency, to take a pole, +and, from the bow, sound for bottom, as we crossed the river, to avoid +shoals. This I did successfully. We estimated our ascent this day at +seven miles. + + +July 4th. The perils and toils of the crew did not prevent their +remembrance of the national anniversary; and the captain acknowledged +their appeal in the morning by an extra measure of "old Monongahela." We +then set forward against the wild, raging current. From the appearance +of the wild turkey and large grey squirrel ashore, it is probable that +we are passing out of the inundated region. In other respects, the face +of the country and its productions appear the same. After ascending +about six miles, when the time approached for looking out for a place to +moor for the night, a storm of wind suddenly arose, which dashed the +water into the barge. We put ashore in haste, at a precipitous bank of +an island, which fell in during the night very near to us, and put us in +momentary peril. To leave our position in the dark, would be to take the +risk of running afoul of snags, or encountering floating trees; but as +early as the light appeared on the morning of the 5th, we left the spot +immediately, crossing to the western bank. By diligence we made eight +miles this day, which brought us to the first settlement at Tiawapeta +bottom, on the Missouri shore. This is the first land that appears +sufficiently elevated for cultivation. The settlement consists of six or +eight farms, where corn, flax, hemp, potatoes, and tobacco, are +abundantly raised. The peach and apple-tree also thrive. I observed the +papaw and persimmon among the wild fruits. + + +July 6th. The downward movement of the water, and its gurgling and rush +as it meets with obstacles, is very audible after the barge has been +fastened to the shore for the night, when its fearful impetuosity, +surcharged as it is with floating wrecks of forest life, is impressive +to the listener, while night has thrown her dark pall over the scene. + +Early in the morning, the oarsmen and polemen were at their masculine +toils. I had feared that such intense application of muscle, in pushing +forward the boat, would exhaust their strength; and we had not gone over +three miles this day, when we were obliged to lay-by for the want of +more competent hands. The complaining men were promptly paid, and +furnished with provisions to return. While detained by this +circumstance, we were passed by a boat of similar construction to our +own, laden with planks from Olean, on the sources of the Alleghany +river, in New York. This article had been transported already more than +thirteen hundred miles, on its way to a market at St. Louis, where it +was estimated to be worth sixty dollars per thousand feet. + +While moored along this coast, the day after we had thus escaped from +the treacherous island, we seemed to have taken shelter along a shore +infested by wild beasts. "Grizzly bear!" was the cry at night. We were +all alarmed by a snorting and disturbance at the water's edge, a short +distance below us, which, it was soon evident, proceeded from a _large_, +light-colored, and furious animal. So far, all agreed. One of our +Pennsylvanians, who had a choice rifle, prepared himself for the attack. +The captain, who had no lack of resolution, and would, at any rate, have +become bold by battling the Mississippi river for six or seven days, had +some missiles; and all prepared to be useful on the occasion. As I +carried nothing more deadly than a silver crucible and some acids, I +remained on the upper deck of the barge. From this elevation I soon saw, +by the dim moonlight, the whole party return, without having fired a +gun. It turned out that the cause of this unusual disturbance was a +large white hog, which had been shot in the head and snout with +swan-shot, by some cruel fellows, the preceding day, and came at night +to mitigate its burning and festering wounds by bathing in the river. + + +July 7th. Having procured some additional hands, our invincible captain +pressed stoutly forward, and, at an early hour, we reached the head of +Tiawapeta bottom, where a short stop was made. At this point, the bed of +the Mississippi appears to be crossed by a chain of rocks, which oppose, +however, no obstruction to its navigation. Such masses of it as appear +on shore, are silico-carbonates of lime, and seem to belong to the +metalliferous system of Missouri. About half a mile above the +commencement of this chain, I observed, at the foot of an elevation near +the water's edge, a remarkable stratum of white aluminous earth, of a +rather dry and friable character, resembling chalk, and which, I +afterwards observed, was extensively used by mechanics in Missouri as a +substitute for that article. Masses, and in some instances nodules, of +hornstone, resembling true flint, are found imbedded in it; yet it is +not to be confounded with the chalk formation. It yields no +effervescence with nitric, and is wholly destitute of carbonic, acid. +Portions of the stratum are colored deeply by the red oxide of iron. +Scattered along the shores of the river at this place, I observed large, +angular masses of pudding-stone, consisting chiefly of silicious pebbles +and sand, cemented by oxide of iron. + +I now began to breathe more freely. For seven days we had been passing +through such a nascent region, down which the Mississippi swept at so +furious a rate, that I never felt sure, at night, that I should behold +another day. Had the barge, any day, lost her heading and got athwart +the stream, nothing could have prevented the water from rushing over her +gunwales, and sweeping her to destruction. And the whole district of the +alluvial banks was subject to be momentarily undermined, and frequently +tumbled in, with the noise and fury of an avalanche, threatening +destruction to whatever was in the vicinity. + +Owing to the increased firmness of the shore, and the reinforcement of +hands, we ascended this day ten miles. We began to feel in better +spirits. + + +July 8th. The calcareous and elevated formation of rocks, covered with +geological drift, continued constantly along the Missouri shore; for it +was this shore, and not the Illinois side, that we generally hugged. +This drift, on ascending the elevations, consisted of a hard and reddish +loam, or marly clay, filled with pebble-stones of various kinds, and +fragments and chips of hornstone, chert, common jasper, argillaceous +oxide of iron, radiated quartz, and quartz materials, betokening the +disruption, in ancient eras, of prior formations. The trees observed on +the diluvial elevations were oaks, sassafras, and, on the best lands, +walnut, but of sparse growth; with a dense forest of cotton-wood, +sycamore, and elm, on the alluvions. On ascending the river five miles, +we came to the town of Cape Girardeau, consisting of about fifty wooden +buildings of all sorts, with a post-office and two stores. We were now +at the computed distance of fifty miles above the influx of the Ohio. We +went no farther that day. This gave me an opportunity to explore the +vicinity. + +I had not yet put my foot ashore, when a fellow-passenger brought me a +message from one of the principal merchants of the place, desiring me to +call at his store, and aid him in the examination of some drugs and +medicines which he had newly received. On reaching his store, I was +politely ushered into a back room, where some refreshments were +handsomely set out. The whole thing was, in fact, designed as a friendly +welcome to a professional man, who came neither to sell nor buy, but +simply to inquire into the resources and natural history of the country. +At this trait of hospitality and appreciation in a stranger, I took +courage, and began to perceive that the West might be relied on. + +I found the town of Cape Girardeau situated on an elevation of rich, +red, marly soil, highly charged with oxide of iron, which is +characteristic of the best arable soils of the mine country. This soil +appears to be very readily dissolved in water, and carried off rapidly +by rains, which furnishes a solution to the deep gulfs and gorges that +disfigure many parts of the cultivated high grounds. If such places were +sown with the seeds of grass, it would give fixity to the soil, and add +much to the beauty of the landscape. + + +July 9th. We resumed our journey up the rapid stream betimes, but, with +every exertion, ascended only seven miles. The river, in this distance, +preserves its general character; the Missouri shores being rocky and +elevated, while the vast alluvial tracts of the Illinois banks spread +out in densely wooded bottoms. But, while the Missouri shores create the +idea of greater security by their fixity, and freedom from treacherous +alluvions, this very fixity of rocky banks creates jets of strong +currents, setting around points, which require the greatest exertions of +the bargemen to overcome. To aid them in these exigencies, the +_cordelle_ is employed. This consists of a stout rope fastened to a +block in the bow of the barge, which is then passed over the shoulders +of the men, who each at the same time grasp it, and lean hard forward. + + +July 10th. To me, the tardiness of our ascent, after reaching the rock +formations, was extremely favorable, as it facilitated my examinations. +Every day the mineralogy of the western banks became more interesting, +and I was enabled daily to add something to my collection. This day, I +picked up a large fragment of the pseudo pumice which is brought down +the Missouri by its summer freshets. This mineral appears to have been +completely melted; and its superficies is so much enlarged by vesicles +filled with air, and its specific gravity thereby so much reduced, as to +permit it to float in water. We encamped this evening, after an ascent +of seven miles, at a spot called the Moccasin Spring, which is contained +in a crevice in a depressed part of the limestone formation. + + +July 11th. This day was signalized by our being passed by a small +steamer of forty tons burden, called the Harriet, laden with merchandise +for St. Louis. Viewed from our stand-point, she seemed often nearly +stationary, and sometimes receded, in her efforts to stem the fierce +current; but she finally ascended, slowly and with labor. The pressure +of the stream, before mentioned, against the rocky barrier of the +western banks, was found, to-day, to be very strong. With much ado, with +poles and cordelle, we made but five miles. + + +July 12th. We passed the mouth of Great Muddy river, on the Illinois +shore, this morning. This stream, it is said, affords valuable beds of +coal. The name of the river does not appear to be very poetic, nor very +characteristic, in a region where every tributary stream is muddy; the +Mississippi itself being muddy above all others. But, thanks to the +Indians, they have not embodied that idea in the name of the Father of +rivers; its greatness, with them, being justly deemed by far its most +characteristic trait. + +About two miles above this locality, we came to one of the geological +wonders of the Mississippi, called the Grand Tower. It is a pile of +limestone rocks, rising precipitously from the bed of the river in a +circular form, resembling a massive castle. The height of this +geological monument may be about one hundred feet. It is capped by some +straggling cedars, which have caught a footing in the crevices. It +might, with as much propriety as one of the Alps, be called the Jungfrau +(Virgin); for it seems impossible that any human being should ever have +ascended it. The main channel of the river passes east of it. There is a +narrower channel on the west, which is apparently more dangerous. We +crossed the river below this isolated cliff, and landed at some +cavernous rocks on the Illinois side, which the boatmen, with the usual +propensity of unlettered men, called the Devil's Oven. We then recrossed +the river, and, after ascending a distance along the western shore, were +repulsed in an attempt, with the cordelle, to pass Garlic Point. The +captain then made elaborate preparations for a second attempt, but again +failed. A third effort, with all our appliances, was resolved on, but +with no better success; and we came-to, finally, for the night, in an +eddy below the point, having advanced, during the day, seven miles. If +we did not make rapid progress, I had good opportunities of seeing the +country, and of contemplating this majestic river in one of its most +characteristic phases--namely, its summer flood. I pleased myself by +fancying, as I gazed upon its rushing eddies of mud and turbid matter, +that I at least beheld a part of the Rocky mountains, passing along _in +the liquid state_! It was a sight that would have delighted the eyes of +Hutton; for methinks the quantity of detritus and broken-down strata +would not have required, in his mind, many cycles to upbuild a +continent. + + Mountains to chaos are by waters hurled, + And re-create the geologic world. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + PASS CAPE GARLIC--OBRAZO RIVER--CLIFFS--EMIGRANTS--CAPE ST. + COMB--BOIS BRULE BOTTOM--PAROQUET--FORT CHARTRES--KASKASKIA + --ST. GENEVIEVE--M. BRETON--THE MISSISSIPPI DEFICIENT IN + FISH--ANTIQUITIES--GEOLOGY--STEAMER--HERCULANEUM--M. AUSTIN, + ESQ., THE PIONEER TO TEXAS--JOURNEY ON FOOT TO ST. LOUIS-- + MISADVENTURES ON THE MARAMEC--ITS INDIAN NAME--CARONDELET-- + ST. LOUIS, ITS FINE SITE AND PROBABLE FUTURE IMPORTANCE--ST. + LOUIS MOUNDS NOT ARTIFICIAL--DOWNWARD PRESSURE OF THE + DILUVIAL DRIFT OF THE MISSISSIPPI. + + +July 13th. We renewed the attempt to pass Cape Garlic at an early hour, +and succeeded after a protracted and severe trial. But two of our best +men immediately declared their unwillingness to proceed farther in these +severe labors, in which they were obliged to pull like oxen; and they +were promptly paid off by the captain, and permitted to return. The +crew, thus diminished, went on a short distance further with the barge, +and came-to at the mouth of the Obrazo river, to await the effort of our +commander to procure additional hands. We had not now advanced more than +two miles, which constituted the sum of this day's progress. While +moored here, we were passed by four boats filled with emigrants from +Vermont and Western New York, destined for Boon's Lick, on the Missouri. +I embraced the occasion of this delay to make some excursions in the +vicinity. + + +July 14th. Having been successful in obtaining a reinforcement of hands +from the interior, we pursued the ascent, and made six miles along the +Missouri shore. The next day (15th) we ascended seven miles. This +leisurely tracing of the coast revealed to me some of the minutest +features of its geological structure. The cliffs consist of horizontal +strata of limestone, resting on granular crystalline sandstone. Nothing +can equal the beauty of the varying landscape presented for the last two +days. There has appeared a succession of the most novel and interesting +objects. Whatever pleasure can be derived from the contemplation of +natural objects, presented in surprising and picturesque groups, can +here be enjoyed in the highest degree. Even art may be challenged to +contrast, with more effect, the bleak and rugged cliff with the verdant +forest, the cultivated field, or the wide-extended surface of the +Mississippi, interspersed with its beautiful islands, and winding +majestically through a country, which only requires the improvements of +civilized and refined society, to render it one of the most delightful +residences of man. Nor is it possible to contemplate the vast extent, +fertility, resources, and increasing population of this immeasurable +valley, without feeling a desire that our lives could be prolonged to an +unusual period, that we might survey, an hundred years hence, the +improved social and political condition of the country, and live to +participate in its advantages, improvements, and power. + +All the emigrants whom we have passed seem to be buoyed up by a hopeful +and enterprising character; and, although most of them are manifestly +from the poorest classes, and are from twelve to fifteen hundred miles +on their adventurous search for a new home, from none have I heard a +word of despondency. + + +July 16th. I observed to-day, at Cape St. Comb, large angular fragments +of a species of coarse granular sandstone rock, which appear to be +_disjecta membra_ of a much more recent formation than that underlying +the prevalent surface formation. + +The gay and noisy paroquet was frequently seen, this day, wheeling in +flocks over the river; and at one point, which was revealed suddenly, we +beheld a large flock of pelicans standing along a low, sandy peninsula. +Either the current, during to-day's voyage, was less furious, or the +bargemen exerted more strength or skill; for we ascended ten miles, and +encamped at the foot of _Bois Brule_ (Burnt-wood) bottom. The term +"bottom" is applied, in the West, to extensive tracts of level and +arable alluvial soil, whether covered by, or denuded of, native forest +trees. We found it the commencement of a comparatively populous and +flourishing settlement, having on the next day (17th) passed along its +margin for seven miles. Its entire length is twelve miles. + + +July 18th. The most prominent incidents of this day were the passing, on +the Illinois shore, of the celebrated site of fort Chartres, and the +influx of the Kaskaskia (or, as it is abbreviated by the men, _Ocaw_ or +_Caw_) river--a large stream on the eastern shore. These names will +recall some of the earliest and most stirring scenes of Illinois +history. The town of Kaskaskia, which is the present seat of the +territorial government, is seated seven miles above its mouth. + +Fort Chartres is now a ruin, and, owing to the capricious channel of the +Mississippi, is rapidly tumbling into it. It had been a regular work, +built of stone, according to the principles of military art. Its walls +formerly contained not only the chief element of military power in +French Illinois, but also sheltered the ecclesiastics and traders of the +time. In an old manuscript journal of that fort which I have seen, a +singular custom of the Osages is mentioned, on the authority of one +Mons. Jeredot. He says (Dec. 22, 1766) that they have a feast, which +they generally celebrate about the month of March, when they bake a +large (corn) cake of about three or four feet diameter, and of two or +three inches thickness. This is cut into pieces, from the centre to the +circumference; and the principal chief or warrior arises and advances to +the cake, when he declares his valor, and recounts his noble actions. If +he is not contradicted, or none has aught to allege against him, he +takes a piece of the cake, and distributes it among the boys of the +nation, repeating to them his noble exploits, and exhorting them to +imitate them. Another then approaches, and in the same manner recounts +his achievements, and proceeds as before. Should any one attempt to +take of the cake, to whose character there is the least exception, he is +stigmatized and set aside as a poltroon. + +It is said by some of the oldest and most intelligent inhabitants of St. +Louis, that about 1768, when the British had obtained possession of fort +Chartres, a very nefarious transaction took place in that vicinity, in +the assassination of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac. Tradition +tells us that this man had exercised great influence in the North and +West, and that he resisted the transfer of authority from the French to +the English, on the fall of Canada. Carver has a story on this subject, +detailing the siege of Detroit in 1763, which has been generally read. +The version of Pontiac's death in Illinois, is this:--While encamped in +this vicinity, an Illinois Indian, who had given in his adherence to the +new dynasty of the English, was hired by the promise of rum, by some +English traders, to assassinate the chief, while the latter was reposing +on his pallet at night, still vainly dreaming, perhaps, of driving the +English out of America, and of restoring his favorite Indo-Gallic empire +in the West. + + +July 19th. We ascended the Mississippi seven miles yesterday, to which, +by all appliances, we added eleven miles to-day, which is our maximum +ascent in one day. Five miles of this distance, along the Missouri +shore, consists of the great public field of St. Genevieve. This field +is a monument of early French policy in the days of Indian supremacy, +when the agricultural population of a village was brought to labor in +proximity, so that any sudden and capricious attack of the natives could +be effectively repelled. We landed at the mouth of the Gabarie, a small +stream which passes through the town. St. Genevieve lies on higher +ground, above the reach of the inundations, about a mile west of the +landing. It consists of some three hundred wooden houses, including +several stores, a post-office, court-house, Roman Catholic church, and a +branch of the Missouri Bank, having a capital of fifty thousand dollars. +The town is one of the principal markets and places of shipment for the +Missouri lead-mines. Heavy stacks of lead in pigs, are one of the chief +characteristics which I saw in, and often piled up in front of its +storehouses; and they give one the idea of a considerable export in this +article. + + +July 20th. I devoted this day to a reconnoissance of St. Genevieve and +its environs. The style of building reminds one of the ancient Belgic +and Dutch settlements on the banks of the Hudson and Mohawk--high-pointed +roofs to low one-story-buildings, and large stone chimneys out-doors. +The streets are narrow, and the whole village as compact as if built to +sustain a siege. The water of the Mississippi is falling rapidly, and +leaves on the shores a deposit of mud, varying from a foot to two feet +in depth. This recent deposit appears to consist essentially of silex +and alumine, in a state of very intimate mixture. An opinion is +prevalent throughout this country, that the water of the Mississippi, +with every impurity, is healthful as a common drink; and accordingly the +boatmen, and many of the inhabitants on the banks of the river, make use +of no other water. An expedient resorted to at first, perhaps, from +necessity, may be continued from an impression of the benefits resulting +from it. I am not well enough acquainted with the chemical properties of +the water, or the method in which it operates on the human system, to +deny its utility; but, to my palate, clear spring-water is far +preferable. A simple method is pursued for clarifying it: a handful of +Indian meal is sprinkled on the surface of a vessel of water, +precipitating the mud to the bottom, and the superincumbent water is +left in a tolerable state of purity. + + +July 21st. We again set forward this morning. On ascending three miles, +we came to Little Rock ferry--a noted point of crossing from the east to +the west of the Mississippi. The most remarkable incident in the history +of this place is the residence of an old French soldier, of an age gone +by, who has left his name in the geography of the surrounding country. +_M. Breton_, the person alluded to, is stated to be, at this time, one +hundred and nine years of age. Tradition says that he was at Braddock's +defeat--at the siege of Louisbourg--at the building of fort Chartres, +in the Illinois--and at the siege of Bergen-op-Zoom, in Flanders. While +wandering as a hunter, after his military services had ended, in the +country about forty miles west of the Mississippi, he discovered the +extensive lead-mines which continue to bear his name. + +We ascended this day twelve miles, which is the utmost stretch of our +exertions against the turbid and heavy tide of this stream. Our captain +(Ensminger) looked in the evening as if he had been struggling all day +in a battle, and his men took to their pallets as if exhausted to the +last degree. + + +July 22d. I have seen very little, thus far, in the Mississippi, in the +shape of fish. The only species noticed has been the gar; one of which I +caught, as described, from the side of the boat, while lying at the +mouth of the Ohio. Of all rivers in the West, I should think it the +least favorable to this form of organized matter. Of the coarse species +of the catfish and buffalo-fish which are found in its waters, I suppose +the freshet has deprived us of a sight. + +Of antiquities, I have seen nothing since leaving the Ohio valley till +this day, when I picked up, in my rambles on shore, an ancient Indian +dart, of chert. The Indian antiquities on the Illinois shore, however, +are stated to be very extensive. Near the Kaskaskia river are numerous +mounds and earthworks, which denote a heavy ancient population. + +The limestone cliffs, at the place called Dormant Rocks, assume a very +imposing appearance. These precipitous walls bear the marks of attrition +in water-lines, very plainly impressed, at great heights above the +present water-level; creating the idea that they may have served as +barriers to some ancient ocean resting on the grand prairies of +Illinois. + +We were passed, near evening, by the little steamer Harriet, on her +descent from St. Louis. This vessel is the same that was noticed on the +11th, on her ascent, and is the only representative of steam-power that +we have observed.[5] Our ascent this day was estimated at thirteen +miles. + + +July 23d. Passing the Platten creek, the prominence called Cornice Rock, +and the promontory of Joachim creek, an ascent of five miles brought us +to the town of Herculaneum. This name of a Roman city buried for ages, +gives, at least, a moral savor of antiquity to a country whose +institutions are all new and nascent. It was bestowed, I believe, by Mr. +Austin, who is one of the principal proprietors of the place. It +consists of between thirty and forty houses, including three stores, a +post-office, court-house, and school. There are three shot-towers on the +adjoining cliffs, and some mills, with a tan-yard and a distillery, in +the vicinity. It is also a mart for the lead-mine country. + +I had now ascended one hundred and seventy miles from the junction of +the Ohio. This had required over twenty-two days, which gives an average +ascent of between seven and eight miles per day, and sufficiently +denotes the difficulty of propelling boats up this stream by manual +labor. + +At Herculaneum I was introduced to M. Austin, Esq.--a gentleman who had +been extensively engaged in the mining business while the country was +yet under Spanish jurisdiction, and who was favorably known, a few years +after, as the prime mover of the incipient steps to colonize Texas. +Verbal information, from him and others, appeared to make this a +favorable point from which to proceed into the interior, for the purpose +of examining its mineral structure and peculiarities. I therefore +determined to leave my baggage here until I had visited the territorial +capital, St. Louis. This was still thirty miles distant, and, after +making the necessary preparations, I set out, on the 26th of the month, +on foot. In this journey I was joined by my two _compagnons de voyage_ +from Pennsylvania and Maryland. We began our march at an early hour. The +summer had now assumed all its fervor, and power of relaxation and +lassitude on the muscles of northern constitutions. We set out on foot +early, but, as the day advanced, the sun beat down powerfully, and the +air seemed to owe all its paternity to tropical regions. It was in vain +we reached the summit land. There was no breeze, and the forest trees +were too few and widely scattered to afford any appreciable shade. + +The soil of the Missouri uplands appears to possess a uniform character, +although it is better developed in some localities than in others. It is +the red mineral clay, which, in some of its conditions, yields beds of +galena throughout the mine country, bearing fragments of quartz in some +of its numerous varieties. In these uplands, its character is not so +well marked as in the districts further west; geologically considered, +however, it is identical in age and relative position. The _gullied_ +character of the soil, and its liability to crumble under the effect of +rain, and to be carried off, which was first noticed at Cape Girardeau, +is observed along this portion of the river, and is most obvious in the +gulfy state of the roads. + +What added greatly to our fatigue in crossing this tract, was the having +taken a too westerly path, which gave us a roundabout tramp. On +returning to the main track, we forded Cold river, a rapid and clear +brook; a little beyond which, we reached a fine, large, crystal spring, +the waters of which bubbled up briskly and bright, and ran off from +their point of outbreak to the river we had just crossed, leaving a +white deposit of sulphur. The water is pretty strongly impregnated with +this mineral, and is supposed to have a beneficial effect in bilious +complaints. The scenery in the vicinity of the spring is highly +picturesque, and the place is capable of being made a delightful resort. + +Five miles more brought us to the banks of the Maramec river, where we +arrived at dark, and prevailed with the ferryman to take us across, +notwithstanding the darkness of the night, and the rain, which, after +having threatened a shower all the afternoon, now began to fall. The +Maramec is the principal stream of the mine country, and is the +recipient of affluents, spreading over a large area. The aboriginal name +of this stream, Mr. Austin informed me, should be written "Marameg." The +ferryman seemed in no hurry to put us over this wide river, at so late +an hour, and with so portentous a sky as hung over us, threatening every +moment to pour down floods upon us. By the time we had descended from +his house into the valley, and he had put us across to the opposite +shore, it was dark. We took his directions for finding the house at +which we expected to lodge; but it soon became so intensely dark, that +we pursued a wrong track, which led us away from the shelter we sought. +Satisfied at length that we had erred, we knew not what to do. It then +began to pour down rain. We groped about a while, but finally stood +still. In this position, we had not remained long, when the faint +tinkling of a cow-bell, repeated leisurely, as if the animal were +housed, fell on our ears. The direction of the sound was contrary to +that we had been taking; but we determined to grope our way cautiously +toward it, guided at intervals by flashes of lightning which lit up the +woods, and standing still in the meanwhile to listen. At length we came +to a fence. This was a guide, and by keeping along one side of it, it +led us to the house of which we were in search. We found that, deducting +our misadventure in the morning, we had advanced on our way, directly, +but about fifteen miles. + + +July 27th. We were again on our path at a seasonable hour, and soon +passed out of the fertile and heavily timbered valley of the Maramec. +There now commenced a gentle ridge, running parallel to the Mississippi +river for twelve miles. In this distance there was not a single house, +nor any trace that man had bestowed any permanent labor. It was sparsely +covered with oaks, standing at long distances apart, with the +intervening spaces profusely covered with prairie grass and flowers. We +frequently saw the deer bounding before us; and the views, in which we +sometimes caught glimpses of the river, were of a highly sylvan +character. But the heat of the day was intense, and we sweltered beneath +it. About half-way, we encountered a standing spring, in a sort of open +cavern at the foot of a hill, and stooped down and drank. We then went +on, still "faint and wearily," to the old French village of Carondelet, +which bears the soubriquet of _Vede-pouche_ (empty sack). It contains +about sixty wooden buildings, arranged mostly in a single street. Here +we took breakfast. + +Being now within six miles of the place of our destination, and +recruited and refreshed, we pushed on with more alacrity. The first +three miles led through a kind of brushy heath, which had the +appearance of having once been covered with large trees that had all +been cut away for firing, with here and there a dry trunk, denuded and +white, looking like ghosts of a departed forest. Patches of cultivation, +with a few buildings, then supervened. These tokens of a better state of +things increased in frequency and value till we reached the skirts of +the town, which we entered about four o'clock in the afternoon. + +St. Louis impressed me as a geographical position of superlative +advantages for a city. It now contains about five hundred and fifty +houses, and five thousand inhabitants. It has forty stores, a +post-office, a land-office, two chartered banks, a court-house, jail, +theatre, three churches, one brewery, two distilleries, two water-mills, +a steam flouring-mill, and other improvements. These elements of +prosperity are but indications of what it is destined to become. The +site is unsurpassed for its beauty and permanency; a limestone formation +rising from the shores of the Mississippi, and extending gradually to +the upper plain. It is in north latitude 38° 36', nearly equidistant +from the Alleghany and the Rocky mountains. It is twelve hundred miles +above New Orleans, and about one thousand below St. Anthony's falls. + +No place in the world, situated so far from the ocean, can at all +compare with St. Louis for commercial advantages. It is so situated with +regard to the surrounding country, as to become the key to its commerce, +and the storehouse of its wealth; and if the whole western region be +surveyed with a geographical eye, it must rest with unequalled interest +on that peninsula of land formed by the junction of the Missouri with +the Mississippi--a point occupied by the town of St. Louis. Standing +near the confluence of two such mighty streams, an almost immeasurable +extent of back country must flow to it with its produce, and be supplied +from it with merchandise. The main branch of the Missouri is navigable +two thousand five hundred miles, and the most inconsiderable of its +tributary streams will vie with the largest rivers of the Atlantic +States. The Mississippi, on the other hand, is navigable without +interruption for one thousand miles above St. Louis. Its affluents, the +De Corbeau, Iowa, Wisconsin, St. Pierre, Rock river, Salt river, and +Desmoines, are all streams of the first magnitude, and navigable for +many hundred miles. The Illinois is navigable three hundred miles; and +when the communication between it and the lakes, and between the +Mississippi and lake Superior, and the lake of the Woods--between the +Missouri and the Columbia valley--shall be effected; communications not +only pointed out, but, in some instances, almost completed by nature; +what a chain of connected navigation shall we behold! And by looking +upon the map, we shall find St. Louis the focus where all these streams +are destined to be discharged--the point where all this vast commerce +must centre, and where the wealth flowing from these prolific sources +must pre-eminently crown her the queen of the west. + +My attention was called to two large mounds, on the western bank of the +Mississippi, a short distance above St. Louis. I have no hesitation in +expressing the opinion that they are geological, and not artificial. +Indian bodies have been buried in their sides, precisely as they are +often buried by the natives in other elevated grounds, for which they +have a preference. But the mounds themselves consist of sand, boulders, +pebbles, and other drift materials, such as are common to undisturbed +positions in the Mississippi valley generally. + +Another subject in the physical geography of the country attracted my +notice, the moment the river fell low enough to expose its inferior +shores, spits, and sand-bars. It is the progressive diffusion of its +detritus from superior to inferior positions in its length. Among this +transported material I observed numerous small fragments of those +agates, and other silicious minerals of the quartz family, which +characterize the broad diluvial tracts about its sources and upper +portions. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[5] I found fifty steamers of all sizes on the Mississippi and its +tributaries, of which a list is published in the Appendix. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + RESOLVE TO PROCEED FURTHER WEST--NIGHT VOYAGE ON THE + MISSISSIPPI IN A SKIFF--AN ADVENTURE--PROCEED ON FOOT WEST + TO THE MISSOURI MINES--INCIDENTS BY THE WAY--MINERS' + VILLAGE OF SHIBBOLETH--COMPELLED BY A STORM TO PASS THE + NIGHT AT OLD MINES--REACH POTOSI--FAVORABLE RECEPTION BY + THE MINING GENTRY--PASS SEVERAL MONTHS IN EXAMINING THE + MINES--ORGANIZE AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE WESTWARD--ITS + COMPOSITION--DISCOURAGEMENTS ON SETTING OUT--PROCEED, + NOTWITHSTANDING--INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE VALLEY OF + LEAVES. + + +I was kindly received by some persons I had before known, particularly +by a professional gentleman with whom I had descended the Alleghany +river in the preceding month of March, who invited me to remain at his +house. I had now proceeded about seventeen hundred miles from my +starting-point in Western New York; and after passing a few days in +examining the vicinity, and comparing facts, I resolved on the course it +would be proper to pursue, in extending my journey further west and +south-west. I had felt, for many years, an interest in the character and +resources of the mineralogy of this part of what I better knew as Upper +Louisiana, and its reported mines of lead, silver, copper, salt, and +other natural productions. I had a desire to see the country which De +Soto had visited, west of the Mississippi, and I wished to trace its +connection with the true Cordillera of the United States--the Stony or +Rocky mountains. My means for undertaking this were rather slender. I +had already drawn heavily on these in my outward trip. But I felt (I +believe from early reading) an irrepressible desire to explore this +region. I was a good draughtsman, mapper, and geographer, a ready +penman, a rapid sketcher, and a naturalist devoted to mineralogy and +geology, with some readiness as an assayer and experimental chemist; and +I relied on these as both aids and recommendations--as, in short, the +incipient means of success. + +When ready to embark on the Mississippi, I was joined by my two former +companions in the ascent from the mouth of the Ohio. It was late in the +afternoon of one of the hottest summer days, when we took our seats +together in a light skiff at St. Louis, and pushed out into the +Mississippi, which was still in flood, but rapidly falling, intending to +reach Cahokia that night. But the atmosphere soon became overcast, and, +when night came on, it was so intensely dark that we could not +discriminate objects at much distance. Floating, in a light pine skiff, +in the centre of such a stream, on a very dark night, our fate seemed +suspended by a thread. The downward pressure of the current was such, +that we needed not to move an oar; and every eye was strained, by +holding it down parallel to the water, to discover contiguous snags, or +floating bodies. It became, at the same time, quite cold. We at length +made a shoal covered with willows, or a low sandy islet, on the left, or +Illinois shore. Here, one of my Youghioghany friends, who had not yet +got over his _penchant_ for grizzly bears, returned from reconnoitering +the bushes, with the cry of this prairie monster with a cub. It was too +dark to scrutinize, and, as we had no arms, we pushed on hurriedly about +a mile further, and laid down, rather than slept, on the shore, without +victuals or fire. At daylight, for which we waited anxiously, we found +ourselves nearly opposite Carondelet, to which we rowed, and where we +obtained a warm breakfast. Before we had finished eating, our French +landlady called for pay. Whether anything on our part had awakened her +suspicions, or the deception of others had rendered the precaution +necessary, I cannot say. Recruited in spirits by this meal, and by the +opening of a fine, clear day, we pursued our way, without further +misadventure, about eighteen miles, and landed at Herculaneum. + +The next day, which was the last of July, I set out on foot for the +mines, having directed my trunks to follow me by the first returning +lead-teams. My course led through an open, rolling country, covered with +grass, shrubs, and prairie flowers, and having but few trees. There was +consequently little or no shade, and, the weather being sultry, I +suffered much from heat and thirst. For the space of about twelve miles, +the road ran over an elevated ridge, destitute of streams or springs. I +did not meet an individual, nor see anything of the animal creation +larger than a solitary wild turkey, which, during the hottest part of +the day, came to contest with me for, or rather had previously reached, +some water standing in a wagon-rut. I gained the head of the Joachim +creek before nightfall, and, having taken lodgings, hastened down to a +sheltered part of the channel to bathe, after which I enjoyed a +refreshing night's sleep. The aboriginal name of this stream was +"Zwashau," meaning pin-oak, as I was told by an old hunter whom I met. + +The next day I was early on my way; and I soon began to discover, in the +face of the country, evidences of its metalliferous character. Twelve +miles brought me to the valley of Grand or Big river, one of the +principal tributaries of the Maramec. In descending the high grounds, I +observed numerous specimens of the brown oxide of iron; and after +crossing the ferry, the mineral locally called mineral blossom, +(radiated quartz,) of which I had noticed slight traces before, +developed itself in fine specimens. The first mining village I came to, +bore the name of Shibboleth. At this place there was a smelting furnace, +of the kind called a log-furnace. Here I first saw heaps of the ore of +lead commonly found. It is the sulphuret, of a broad glittering grain, +and cubical fracture. It is readily smelted, being piled on logs of +equal length, and adjusted in the before-named furnace, where it is +roasted till the sulphur is driven off; when desulphurated, it melts, +and the metal is received on an inclined plane and conducted into an +orifice, from which it is ladled into moulds. From fifty to sixty per +cent, is obtained in this way. Shibboleth is the property of John Smith +T.; a man whose saturnine temper and disposition have brought him into +collision with many persons, and given him a wide-spread notoriety both +in Missouri and Tennessee. + +I lingered along so leisurely, and stopped so often to examine objects +by the way, that my progress was not rapid. I obtained some corn-bread +and milk at a house, and pursued my journey to Old Mines, where a heavy +storm of rain arose. I took shelter at a neighboring house, where I +remained during the night. The next morning I walked into Potosi, and +took lodgings at Mr. William Ficklin's. This gentleman was a native of +Kentucky, where most of his life had been passed in the perils and +adventures attending the early settlement of that State. His +conversation was replete with anecdotes of perilous adventures which he +had experienced; and I was indebted to him for some necessary practical +points of knowledge in forest life, and precautions in travelling in an +Indian country. + +The day after my arrival was a local election day, for a representative +from the county in the territorial legislature, to which Mr. Austin the +younger was returned. This brought together the principal mining and +agricultural gentlemen of the region, and was a circumstance of some +advantage to me, in extending my acquaintance, and making known the +objects of my visit. In this, the Austins, father and son, were most +kind and obliging. Indeed, the spirit with which I was received by the +landed proprietors of the country generally, and the frankness and +urbanity of their manners and sentiments, inspired me with high hopes of +success in making a mineralogical survey of the country. + +I found the geological structure of the country, embracing the mines, to +be very uniform. It consists of a metalliferous limestone, in horizontal +strata, which have not been lifted up or disturbed from their +horizontality by volcanic forces; but they have been exposed to the laws +of disintegration and elemental action in a very singular manner. By +this action, the surface of the formation has been divided into ridges, +valleys, and hills, producing inequalities of the most striking and +picturesque character. + +There are some forty principal mines, in an area of about seventy miles +by thirty or forty in breadth. The chief ore of lead smelted is galena. +The associated minerals of most prominence are sulphate of barytes, +sulphuret of zinc, calcareous spar, and crystallized quartz, chiefly in +radiated crystals. I spent upwards of three months in a survey of the +mines of chief consequence, noting their peculiarities and geological +features. By far the most remarkable feature in the general structure of +the country, consists of the existence of a granitical tract at the +sources of the river St. Francis. This I particularly examined. The +principal elevations consist of red sienite and greenstone, lying in +their usual forms of mountain masses. The geological upheavals which +have brought these masses to their present elevations, appear to have +been of the most ancient character; for the limestones and crystalline +sandstones have been deposited, in perfectly horizontal beds, against +their sides. + +Feeling a desire to compare this formation with the structure of the +country west and south of it, extending to the Rocky mountains, and +satisfied at the same time that these primary peaks constituted the +mineral region of De Soto's most northerly explorations, I determined to +extend my explorations south-westwardly. The term "Ozark mountains" is +popularly applied to the broad and elevated highlands which stretch in +this direction, reaching from the Maramec to the Arkansas. Having +obtained the best information accessible from hunters and others who had +gone farthest in that direction, I determined to proceed, as early as I +could complete my arrangements for that purpose, to explore those +elevations. + +Colonel W. H. Ashley, who had penetrated into this region, together with +several enterprising hunters and woodsmen, represented it as +metalliferous, and abounding in scenes of varied interest. It had been +the ancient hunting-ground of the Osages, a wild and predatory tribe, +who yet infested its fastnesses; and it was represented as subject to +severe risks from this cause. Two or three of the woodsmen, who were +best acquainted with this tract, expressed a willingness to accompany me +on a tour of exploration. I therefore, in the month of October, +revisited St. Louis and Illinois, for the purpose of making final +arrangements for the tour, and obtained the consent of Mr. Brigham and +Mr. Pettibone, previously mentioned, to accompany me. A day was +appointed for our assembling at Potosi. I then returned to complete my +arrangements. I purchased a stout, low-priced horse, to carry such +supplies as were requisite, made his pack-saddle with my own hands, and +had it properly riveted by a smith. A pair of blankets for sleeping; a +small, short-handled frying-pan; a new axe, a tin coffeepot, three tin +cups, and the same number of tin plates; a couple of hunting-knives; a +supply of lead, shot, ball, powder, and flints; a small smith's hammer, +and nails for setting a horse-shoe; a horse-bell and strap; a pocket +compass; a gun, shot-pouch, and appendages, containing a space for my +diary; a mineral-hammer, constructed under my own directions, so as to +embrace a small mortar on one face, and capable of unscrewing at the +handle, which could be used as a pestle; a supply of stout clothing, a +bearskin and oilcloth, some bacon, tea, sugar, salt, hard bread, &c., +constituted the chief articles of outfit. The man of whom I purchased +the horse called him by the unpoetic name of "Butcher." + +It was the beginning of November before my friends arrived, and on the +sixth of that month we packed the horse, and took our way over the +mineral hills that surround Potosi, making our first encampment in a +little valley, on the margin of a stream called Bates's creek. + +It was fine autumn weather; the leaves of the forest were mostly sere, +and the winds scattered them about us with an agreeable movement, as we +wound among the hills. We were evidently following an old Indian trail, +and, finding a rather tenable old wigwam, constructed of poles and bark, +we pitched upon it as our first place of encampment. My kind host from +Kentucky, with whom I had been staying, accompanied us thus far, to see +us safely in the woods, and taught me the art of hobbling a horse, and +tying on his night-bell. The hunters, who had talked rather +vaingloriously of their prowess among wild animals and Osages, one by +one found obstacles to impede their going. Finally, one of my companions +was compelled to return, owing to a continued attack of fever and ague. +I determined, nevertheless, to proceed, thinking that a hunter could be +found to join us before quitting the verge of civilization. Having +unpacked Butcher, prepared him for the night, stowed away the baggage, +and built a fire, I took my gun and sallied out into the forest, while +my companion prepared things for our supper. I found the greatest +abundance of large black and grey squirrels in a neighboring wood, and +returned with a number of the finest of them in season to add to our +evening's meal. + +A man's first night in the wilderness is impressive. Our friends had +left us, and returned to Potosi. Gradually all sounds of animated nature +ceased. When darkness closed around us, the civilized world seemed to +have drawn its curtains, and excluded us. We put fresh sticks on the +fire, which threw a rich flash of light on our camp, and finally wrapped +ourselves in our blankets, and, amidst ruminations on the peculiarities +of our position, our hopes, and our dangers, we sank to sleep. + + +Nov. 7th. The first thing listened for this morning was the tinkle of +our horse's bell. But Butcher was gone. All my precautions had been in +vain. The poor beast appeared to have had a presentiment of the hard +fare that was before him, and, although his fore-feet were tethered, and +he must lift up both together to jump, yet, having a strong recollection +of the corn-fodder and juicy blades left behind him, he had made his way +back to the mines. I immediately went in pursuit of him. He was easily +tracked until he got to a space of rank herbage, where I lost the track, +and hearing, at the same moment, a bell to the left, I pursued the sound +over hill and through dale, till I came out at a farm-yard on Mine +creek, four miles below Potosi, where I found the bell whose sound I had +followed attached to the neck of a stately penned ox. The owner told me +that Butcher had reached the mines, and been sent back to my camp by his +former owner. I had nothing left but to retrace my steps, which, +luckily, were but the shorter line of an acute triangle. I found him at +the camp. It was, however, ten o'clock before our breakfast was +despatched, and the horse repacked ready for starting. We took the labor +of leading the horse, and carrying the compass and guiding, day about, +so as to equalize these duties, and leave no cause for dissatisfaction. +Our trail carried us across the succession of elevated and arid ridges +called the Pinery. Not a habitation of any kind, nor the vestiges of +one, was passed; neither did we observe any animal, or even bird. The +soil was sterile, hard, and flinty, bearing yellow pines, with some +oaks. Our general course was west-south-west. The day was mild and +pleasant for the season. For a computed distance of fourteen miles, we +encountered a succession of ascents and descents, which made us rejoice, +as evening approached, to see a tilled valley before us. It proved to be +the location of a small branch of the Maramec river, called by its +original French name of _Fourche â Courtois_. The sun sank below the +hills as we entered this valley. Some woodcock flew up as we reached the +low ground; but as we had a cabin in view, and the day was far gone, we +moved on toward our principal object. Presently the loud barking of dogs +announced our approach; they seemed, by their clamor, as pertinacious as +if two wolves or panthers were stealing on the tenement, till they were +silenced by the loud commands of their master. It was a small log +building, of the usual construction on the frontiers, and afforded the +usual hospitality, and ready accommodations. They gave us warm cakes of +corn-bread, and fine rich milk; and, spreading our blankets before the +fire, we enjoyed sound slumbers. Butcher, here, had his last meal of +corn, and made no attempt to escape. + + +Nov. 8th. With the earliest streaks of daylight we adjusted our pack for +the horse, and again set forward on the trail. In the course of two +miles' travel, we forded a stream called Law's Fork, and also the branch +of the Maramec on which we had lodged the previous night. We soon after +descried a hunter's cabin, a small and newly erected hut in the midst of +the forest, occupied by a man named Alexander Roberts. This proved the +last house we encountered, and was estimated to be twenty miles from +Potosi. Some trees had been felled and laid around, partially burned; +but not a spot of ground was in cultivation. Dogs, lean and hungry, +heralded our approach, as in the former instance; and they barked loud +and long. On reaching the cabin, we found that the man was not at home, +having left it, his wife said, with his rifle, at an early hour, in +search of game. She thought he would be back before noon, and that he +would accompany us. We decided to await his return, and in the meanwhile +prepared our frugal breakfast. In a short time, Roberts returned; he was +a chunky, sinister-looking fellow, and reminded me of Ali Baba, in the +"Forty Thieves." He had a short, greasy buckskin frock, and a pointed +old hat. His wife, who peeped out of the door, looked queer, and had at +least one resemblance to Cogia, which seemed to be "starvation." The +hunter had killed nothing, and agreed to accompany us, immediately +beginning his preparations. He at the same time informed us of the fear +entertained of the Osages, and other matters connected with our journey +in the contemplated direction. About ten o'clock he was ready, and, +leading a stout little compact horse from a pen, he clapped a saddle on, +seized his rifle, announced himself as ready, and led off. The trail led +up a long ridge, which appeared to be the dividing ground between the +two principal forks of the Maramec. It consisted of a stiff loam, filled +with geological drift, which, having been burned over for ages by the +Indians, to fit it for hunting in the fall of the year, had little +carbonaceous soil left, and exhibited a hard and arid surface. Our +general course was still west-south-west. After proceeding about four +miles, our path came to the summit of an eminence, from which we +descried the valley of the Ozau, or Ozark fork. This valley consisted +entirely of prairie. Scarcely a tree was visible in it. The path wound +down the declivity, and across the valley. The soil appeared to be +fertile. Occupying one bank of the stream, nearly in the centre of the +valley, we passed a cluster of Indian wigwams, inhabited alone by the +old men, women, and children; the young men being absent, hunting. We +found them to be Lenno-Lenapees, or, in other words, Delawares; being +descendants of the Indians whom William Penn found, in 1682, in the +pleasant forest village of Coacquannok, where Philadelphia now stands. +Strange, but not extraordinary history! They have been shoved back by +civilization, in the course of a hundred and thirty-six years' +mutations, over the Alleghanies--over the Mississippi--into the spurs of +these mountains. Where they will be after the lapse of a similar period, +no one can say. But this _can_ be said--that the hunting of deer will +give out; and if they do not betake themselves to some other means of +subsistence, they will be numbered among the nations that were. + +Roberts informed me that four or five miles lower down the valley was a +village of Shawnees, and, higher up, another village of Delawares. + +On reaching the uplands on the west side of the valley, we pursued the +trail up its banks about four or five miles, and encamped by daylight +near a clump of bushes at a spring. As I was expert in striking and +kindling a fire, this became a duty to which I devoted myself during the +entire journey, while my companion busied himself in preparations for +our repast. Roberts reconnoitred the vicinity, and came in with a report +that we had reached a game country. + +We were now fairly beyond the line of all settlements, even the most +remote, and had entered on that broad highland tract to which, for +geographical distinction, the name of Ozark mountains is applied. This +tract reaches through Missouri and Arkansas, from the Maramec to the +Wachita, and embraces the middle high lands between the plains at the +foot of the Rocky mountains, and the rapids of the Maramec, St. Francis, +Osage, White, Arkansas, and other principal streams; these traverse a +belt of about two hundred miles east and west, by seven hundred miles +north and south. It is a sort of Rheingau, through which the rivers +burst. + + +Nov. 9th. Early in the morning, Roberts brought in the carcase of a fine +deer; and we made our first meal on wild venison, cut fresh smoking from +the tenderest parts, and roasted on sticks to suit our tastes. This put +every one in the best of spirits, and we packed a supply of the meat for +our evening's repast. Seeing that Roberts was more at home among the +game, and that he had but a sorry knife for the business, I loaned him +a fine new belt and knife, with its sheath, for the day. We now +travelled up the Ozark fork about eighteen miles. The weather was +exhilarating, and the winds were careering with the leaves of the +forest, and casting them in profusion in our track. As we came near the +sources of the river, we entered a wide prairie, perfectly covered for +miles with these leaves, brought from neighboring forests. At every step +the light masses were kicked or brushed away before us. This plain, or +rather level vale, was crowned in the distance by elevations fringed +with tall trees which still held some of their leafy honors, giving a +very picturesque character to the landscape. I booked the scene at +night, in my diary, as CLIOLA, or the Valley of Leaves. We held our way +over the distant eminences, and at length found a spring by which we +encamped, at a rather late hour. It had been a hazy and smoky day, like +the Indian summer in Atlantic latitudes. We were in a region teeming +with the deer and elk, which frequently bounded across our path. The +crack of Roberts's rifle, also, added to the animation of the day's +travel; though we might have known, from his unsteady bandit-eye, that +he meditated something to our damage. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + HORSES ELOPE--DESERTION OF OUR GUIDE--ENCAMP ON ONE OF THE + SOURCES OF BLACK RIVER--HEAD-WATERS OF THE RIVER CURRENTS + --ENTER A ROMANTIC SUB-VALLEY--SALTPETRE CAVES--DESCRIPTION + OF ASHLEY'S CAVE--ENCAMPMENT THERE--ENTER AN ELEVATED SUMMIT + --CALAMARCA, AN UNKNOWN STREAM--ENCOUNTER FOUR BEARS--NORTH + FORK OF WHITE RIVER. + + +Nov. 10th. While we laid on our pallets last night, the trampling of +hoofs was frequently heard; but at length the practised ear of the +hunter detected that these were the sounds of wild animals' hoofs, and +not of our horses. This man's eye had shown an unwonted degree of +restlessness and uneasiness during the afternoon of the preceding day, +while witnessing the abundant signs of deer and elk in the country; but +this excited no suspicions. He was restless during the night, and was +disturbed at a very early hour, long before light, by this trampling of +animals. These sounds, he said to me, did not proceed from the horses, +which were hobbled. He got up, and found both animals missing. Butcher's +memory of corn and corn-fodder, at his old master's at Potosi, had not +yet deserted him, and he carried the hunter's horse along with him. I +immediately jumped up, and accompanied him in their pursuit. There was +some moonlight, with clouds rapidly passing. We pursued our back-track, +anxiously looking from every eminence, and stopping to listen for the +sound of the bells. Roberts occasionally took up a handful of leaves, +which were thickly strewn around, and held them up in the moonlight, to +see whether the corks of the horses' shoes had not penetrated them. When +he finally found this sign, he was sure we were in the right way. At +length, when we had gone several miles, and reached an eminence that +overlooked the broad plain of the Valley of Leaves, we plainly descried +the fugitives, jumping on as fast as possible on the way back. We soon +overhauled them, and brought them to camp by daybreak, before my +companion had yet awaked. + +Roberts now sallied out, and in a few minutes fired at and killed a fat +doe, which he brought in, and we made a breakfast by roasting steaks. +Roberts had expressed no dissatisfaction or desire to return, but, +sallying out again among the deer on horseback, said he would rejoin us +presently, at a future point. We travelled on, expecting at every turn +to see him reappear. But we saw no more of him. The rascal had not only +deserted us at a difficult point, but he carried off my best new +hunting-knife--a loss not to be repaired in such a place. + +We at length came to a point where the trail forked. This put us to a +stand. Which to take, we knew not; and the result was of immense +consequence to our journey, as we afterwards found; for, had we taken +the right-hand fork, we should have been conducted in a more direct line +to the portions of country we sought to explore. We took the left-hand +fork, which we followed diligently, crossing several streams running to +the north-west, which were probably tributary to the Missouri through +the Gasconade. It was after dark before we came to a spot having the +requisites for an encampment, particularly water. It was an opening on +the margin of a small lake, having an outlet south-east, which we +finally determined to be either one of the sources of the Black river, +or of the river Currents. + +We had now travelled about twenty miles from our last camp, in a +southerly direction. We did not entirely relinquish the idea of being +rejoined by Roberts, nor become fully satisfied of his treachery, till +late in the evening. We had relied on his guidance till we should be +able to reach some hunters' camps on the White or Arkansas rivers; but +this idea was henceforth abandoned. Left thus, on the commencement of +our journey, in the wilderness, without a guide or hunter, we were +consigned to a doubtful fate; our extrication from which depended +wholly upon a decision and self-reliance, which he only knows how to +value, who is first called to grapple with the hardships of western +life. + +It was the edge of a prairie where we had halted. Wood was rather +scarce; but we made shift to build a good fire, and went to sleep with +no object near us, to excite sympathy, but our horse, who was securely +belled and tethered. When we awoke in the morning, the fire was out, and +a pack of wolves were howling within a few hundred yards of our camp. +Whether the horse feared them, I know not; but he had taken his position +near the embers of the fire, where he stood quite still. + + +Nov. 11th. In passing two miles, we crossed a small stream running +south-east, which evidently had its source in the little lake at our +last night's encampment. The trail beyond this was often faint; in the +course of eight or ten miles, we began to ascend elevations covered with +pines, but of so sterile and hard a soil, that we lost all trace of it. +We wound about among these desolate pine ridges a mile or two, till, +from one of the higher points, we descried a river in a deep valley, +having a dense forest of hard wood, and every indication of animal life. +Overjoyed at this, we mended our pace, and, by dint of great caution, +led our pack-horse into it. It proved to be the river Currents, a fine +stream, with fertile banks, and clear sparkling waters. The +grey-squirrel was seen sporting on its shady margin, and, as night +approached, the wild turkey came in from the plains to drink, and make +its nightly abode. After fording the river, we soon found our lost +trail, which we followed a while up the stream, then across a high ridge +which constituted its southern banks, and through dense thickets to the +summits of a narrow, deep, and dark limestone valley, which appeared to +be an abyss. Daylight left us as we wound down a gorge into its dreary +precincts; and we no sooner found it traversed by a clear brook, than we +determined to encamp. As the fire flashed up, it revealed on either side +steep and frowning cliffs, which might gratify the wildest spirit of +romance. This stream, with its impending cavernous cliffs, I designated +the Wall-cave or Onónda valley. + +We had advanced this day about eighteen or twenty miles. We had an +opportunity, while on the skirts of the high prairie lands, to fire at +some elk, and to observe their stately motions; but, being still +supplied with venison, we were not willing to waste the time in pursuing +them. Our course varied from south to south-west. + + +Nov. 12th. Daylight fully revealed our position. We were in a valley, +often not more than six hundred feet wide, with walls of high +precipitous limestone rock. These cliffs were remarkable for nothing so +much as their caverns, seated uniformly at a height of forty or fifty +feet above the ground, in inaccessible positions. I do not know the +number of these caves, as we did not count them; but they existed on +either side of the valley as far as we explored it. Most of them were +too high to reach. A tree had fallen against the cliff near one of them, +by climbing which I reached a small ledge of the rock that afforded a +little footing, and, by cautiously groping along, the orifice was +finally reached and entered. It proved interesting, although of no great +extent; but it contained stalactites depending in clusters from the +walls. Of these, I secured a number which were translucent. Slender +crystals of nitrate of potash, of perfect whiteness and crystalline +beauty, were found in some of the crevices. Having secured specimens of +these, I again got out on the ledge of rock, and, reaching the tree, +descended in safety. + +About half a mile higher up the valley, on its south side, we discovered +a cavern of gigantic dimensions. The opening in the face of the rock +appeared to be about eighty or ninety feet wide, and about thirty high. +A projection of rock on one side enabled us to enter it. A vast and +gloomy rotundo opened before us. It very soon, after the entry, +increases in height to sixty or seventy feet, and in width to one +hundred and fifty or two hundred feet, forming an immense hall. This +hall has another opening or corridor, leading to a precipitous part of +the cliff. It extends into the rock, southerly, an unexplored distance, +branching off in lateral avenues from the main trunk. We explored the +main gallery five or six hundred yards, when we found obstructions. The +roof has been blackened by the carbonaceous effect of fires, kindled by +Indians or white men, who have visited it, in former years, in search of +nitrous earth. In some parts of it, compact bodies of pebbles and +reddish clay, very similar to that found on the cliffs, are seen, which +creates an idea that the cavern must have been an open orifice at the +geological era of the diluvial deposits. This earth, by being lixiviated +with common house-ashes, produces a liquid which, on evaporation, yields +saltpetre. The cave, I was informed at Potosi, has been visited for this +purpose by Colonel Ashley, and it appropriately bears his name. Finding +it a perfect "rock-house," and being dry, and affording advantages for +some necessary repairs to our gear, and arrangements for the further +continuation of our explorations, we, about four o'clock in the +afternoon, removed our camp up the valley, and encamped within it. We +could shelter ourselves completely in its capacious chambers in case of +rain, of which there were indications, and take a calm view of the +course it seemed now expedient to pursue. Thus far, we had had a trail, +however slight, to follow; but from this point there was none--we were +to plunge into the pathless woods, and to trust ourselves alone to the +compass, and the best judgment we could form of courses, distances, and +probabilities. A wilderness lay before us, behind us, and around us. We +had "taken our lives in our hands," and we were well satisfied that our +success must depend on our vigilance, energy, and determination. In +addition to the exertion of providing food, and repairing our clothing, +which, as we urged our way, was paying tribute to every sharp bush we +pressed through, we had to exercise a constant vigilance to prevent +Indian surprises; for experience had already taught us that, in the +wilderness, where there is no law to impose restraint but the moral law +of the heart, man is the greatest enemy of man. + + +Nov. 13th. The threatening appearance of the atmosphere induced us to +remain most of the day in our rock-house, which was devoted to devising +a more safe and compact mode of carrying specimens, to repairs of our +pack-saddles, a reconstruction of the mode of packing, &c. We then made +a further reconnoissance of the cavern, and its vicinity and +productions. I had paid particular attention to the subject of the +occurrence of animal bones in our western caves, as those of Europe had +recently excited attention; but never found any, in a single instance, +except the species of existing weasels, and other very small quadrupeds, +which are to be traced about these castellated and cavernous cliffs. As +evening approached, a flock of turkeys, coming in from the plain to the +top of the cliff above the cavern, flew down on to the trees directly in +front of us, sheltered as we were from their sight, and afforded a fine +opportunity for the exercise of our sportsmanship. + + +Nov. 14th. The rain which had threatened to fall yesterday, poured down +this morning, and continued with more or less violence all day. Our +packages, clothing, arms and accoutrements, were thoroughly overhauled +and examined. We had still supplies of everything essential to our +comfort. Our bacon had not been seriously trenched on, while the forest +had amply supplied us with venison, and our groceries bade fair to last +us till we should strike some of the main southern streams, or till our +increasing powers of endurance and forest skill should enable us to do +without them. + + +Nov. 15th. This morning, the sky being clear and bright, we left our +rock abode in the Wall-cave valley. We ascended this valley a short +distance, but, as it led us too far west, and the brush proved so thick +as to retard our progress, we soon left it. With some ado, the horse was +led to the top of the cliff. A number of lateral valleys, covered with +thick brush, made this a labor by no means light. The surface of the +ground was rough, vegetation sere and dry, and every thicket which +spread before us presented an obstacle which was to be overcome. We +could have penetrated many of these, which the horse could not be forced +through. Such parts of our clothing as did not consist of buckskin, paid +frequent tribute to these brambles. + +At length we got clear of these spurs, and entered on a high +table-land, where travelling became comparatively easy. The first view +of this vista of highland plains was magnificent. It was covered with +moderate-sized sere grass and dry seed-pods, which rustled as we passed. +There was scarcely an object deserving the name of a tree, except now +and then a solitary trunk of a dead pine or oak, which had been scathed +by the lightning. The bleached bones of an elk, a deer, or a bison, were +sometimes met. Occasionally we passed a copse of oak, or cluster of +saplings. The deer often bounded before us, and we sometimes disturbed +the hare from its sheltering bush, or put to flight the quail and the +prairie-hen. There was no prominent feature in the distance for the eye +to rest on. The unvaried prospect at length produced satiety. We felt, +in a peculiar manner, the solitariness of the wilderness. We travelled +silently and diligently. It was a dry and wave-like prairie. From +morning till sunset, we did not encounter a drop of water. This became +the absorbing object. Hill after hill, and vale after vale, were +patiently ascended, and diligently footed, without bringing the expected +boon. At last we came, suddenly and unexpectedly, to a small running +stream in the plain, where we gladly encamped. I quickly struck up a +cheerful fire, and we soon had a cup of tea with our evening's repast. +Nor was Butcher neglected. There was a patch of short green grass on the +margin of the brook, to which he did ample justice. We were not long +after supper in yielding ourselves to a sound sleep. + +While we were in the act of encamping, I had placed my powder-flask on +the ground, and, on lighting the fire, neglected to remove it. As the +plain was covered with dry leaves, they soon took fire, and burned over +a considerable space, including the spot occupied by myself and the +flask. The latter was a brass-mounted shooting-flask, of translucent +horn, having a flaw through which grains of powder sometimes escaped. +Yet no explosion took place. I looked and beheld the flask, which the +fire had thus run over, very near me, with amazement. + + +Nov. 16th. We were now on an elevated summit of table-land or +water-shed, which threw its waters off alternately to the Missouri and +Mississippi. It was covered with high, coarse, prairie grass, and its +occasional nodding clusters of prairie flowers run to seed. In depressed +places, the greenbriar occasionally became entangled with the horse's +feet, and required time to extricate him. We very frequently passed the +head and thigh-bones of the buffalo, proving that the animal had been +freely hunted on these plains. In the course of about eight miles' +travel, we passed two small streams running to the north-west, which led +us to think that we were diverging too far towards the Missouri side of +this vast highland plateau. It was still some hours to sunset, and we +had gone about four miles farther when we reached a large, broad stream, +also flowing towards the north-west. It had a rapid and deep current, on +each side of which was a wide space of shallow water, and boulders of +limestone and sandstone. It required some skill to cross this river, as +it was too deep to ford. The horse was led into the edge of the stream +and driven over, coming out with his pack safely on the other side. The +shallow parts offered no obstacle; and we bridged the deeper portion of +the channel with limbs and trunks of trees, which had been brought down +by the stream when in flood and left upon its banks, and, being denuded +of their bark, were light and dry, and as white as bleached bones. + +I had crossed the channel safely, after my companion; but he disturbed +the bridge on stepping from it, and caused me to slip from the stick. +Having my gun in my right hand, I naturally extended it, to break my +fall. Each end of it, as it reached the stream, rested on a stone, and, +my whole weight being in the centre, the barrel was slightly sprung. +This bridge, for the purpose of reference, I called Calamarca. After +crossing the stream, we came to a stand, and, on consultation, explored +it downward, to determine its general course; but, finding it to incline +toward the north-west, we returned up its southern bank two or three +miles above our rustic bridge, and encamped. + + +Nov. 17th. In the morning we proceeded in a south-south-westerly +direction, which, after keeping up the valley from the camp of +Calamarca for a few miles, carried us up an elevated range of hills, +covered with large oaks bearing acorns. We had reached the top of a +ridge which commanded a view of a valley beyond it, when we observed, +far below us in the valley, four bears on an oak, eating sweet acorns. +The descent was steep and rough, with loose stones, which made it +impossible to lead the horse down without disturbing them. We therefore +tied him to a staddle, and, after looking to our priming, we began to +descend the height. But, as the leaves had all fallen, concealment was +impossible; and when the animals became alarmed, and began to come down +the tree, we ran at our utmost speed to reach its foot first. In this +effort, my companion fell on the loose stones, and sprained his ankle; I +kept on, but did not reach the foot of the tree in time to prevent their +escape, and I followed them some distance. When my companion's absence +led me back to him, I found him badly hurt; he limped along with the +utmost difficulty. I soon mounted him on the pack-horse, and led up the +little valley; but the pain of his ankle became so intense, that he +could not bear the motion, and, after proceeding a mile or two, we +determined to halt and encamp. We had not travelled from our morning's +encampment more than five or six miles. I accordingly unpacked the +horse, prepared a pallet for my companion, and built a fire. I then +bathed his ankle with salt and warm water. This done, I took my gun, and +sauntered along the thickets in the hope of starting some game. Nothing, +however, was found. The shrill and unmusical cry of the bluejay, which +was the largest bird I saw, reminded me of other latitudes. Thoughtful, +and full of apprehension at this untoward accident, I returned to our +little camp, and diligently renewed my antalgic applications. + + +Nov. 18th. A night's rest, and the little remedies in my power to +employ, had so far abated the pain of my companion's ankle, that he +again consented to mount the pack-horse, and we pursued our way up the +little valley in which we had encamped. We had not, however, travelled +far, when we saw two large black bears playing in the grass before us, +and so intently engaged in their sport that they did not observe us. My +companion, with my aid, quickly dismounted. We examined our arms, tied +the horse, and, having determined to fire together, had reached our +several stations before the animals noticed our approach. They at first +ran a few yards, but then turned and sat up in the high, sere grass, to +see what had disturbed them. We fired at the same moment, each having +singled out his mark. Both animals fled, but on reaching the spot where +the one I fired at had sat, blood was copiously found on the grass. I +pursued him and his mate over an adjoining ridge, where I lost sight of +them; but discovering, on crossing the ridge, a hollow oak, into which I +judged they had crept, I went back for the axe to fell it. While engaged +at this, my companion hobbled up, and relieved me at the axe. The tree +at length came down with a thundering crash, partially splitting in its +fall, and I stood ready with my gun to receive the discomfited inmates; +but, after gazing intently for a time, none appeared. It was now evident +they had eluded us, and that we had lost the track. The excitement had +almost cured my companion's lameness; but it returned when the pursuit +was over, and, resuming his position on the horse, we proceeded over a +succession of high, oak-covered ridges. In crossing one of these, a +large and stately elk offered another object for our notice. He had an +enormous pair of horns, which it seemed he must find it difficult to +balance in browsing; but the moment he became aware of our propinquity, +he lifted his head, and, throwing back the antlers, they seemed to form +shields for his shoulders and sides while plunging forward through the +thickets. We stood a moment to admire his splendid leaps. + +These incidents had carried us a few miles out of our course. We were on +high broken summits, which resembled, in their surface, what may be +conceived of the tossing waves of a sea suddenly congealed. On +descending from these towards the south, we came to clumps of bushes, +with gravelly areas between, and an occasional standing pool of pure +water. It was very evident to our minds, as we advanced, that these +pools must communicate with each other through the gravel, and that +there were seasons when there was more water washed from the hills. On +following down this formation about six miles, the connection became +more evident, and the sources of an important river developed +themselves. We were, in fact, on the extreme head-waters of the Great +North Fork of White river; the Unica of the Cherokees, and the _Riviere +au Blanc_ of the French. The manner in which the waters develop +themselves on descending the southern slope of these highlands, is +remarkable. They proceed in plateaux or steps, on each of which the +stream deploys in a kind of lake, or elongated basin, connected with the +next succeeding one by a narrow rapid. The rock is a grey sandstone in +the lower situations, capped with limestone. In some places the water +wholly disappears, and seems to permeate the rock. We came to a place +where the river, being some four feet deep, is entirely absorbed by the +rock, and does not again appear till a mile below, where it suddenly +issues from the rock, in its original volume. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + DESCEND THE VALLEY--ITS DIFFICULTIES--HORSE ROLLS DOWN A + PRECIPICE--PURITY OF THE WATER--ACCIDENT CAUSED THEREBY-- + ELKHORN SPRING--TOWER CREEK--HORSE PLUNGES OVER HIS DEPTH + IN FORDING, AND DESTROYS WHATEVER IS DELIQUESCENT IN HIS + PACK--ABSENCE OF ANTIQUITIES, OR EVIDENCES OF ANCIENT + HABITATION--A REMARKABLE CAVERN--PINCHED FOR FOOD--OLD + INDIAN LODGES--THE BEAVER--A DESERTED PIONEER'S CAMP-- + INCIDENT OF THE PUMPKIN. + + +Nov. 19th. Daylight put us in motion. It was determined to follow the +valley down in its involutions, which led us, generally, south. We +passed over some fertile, heavily timbered bottoms, where I observed the +elm, oak, beech, maple, ash, and sycamore. We had not left our camp more +than a mile, when we came to the first appearance of the _C. +arundinacea_, or cane, and we soon after reached the locality of the +greenbriar. Travelling in these rich forests is attended with great +fatigue and exertion from the underbrush, particularly from the thick +growth of cane and greenbriar; the latter of which often binds masses of +the fields of cane together, and makes it next to impossible to force a +horse through the matted vegetation. Our horse, indeed, while he +relieved us from the burden of carrying packs, became the greatest +impediment to our getting forward, while in this valley. To find an +easier path, we took one of the summit ranges of the valley. But a +horse, it seems, must have no climbing to do, when he is under a +pack-saddle. We had not gone far on this ridge, when the animal slipped, +or stumbled. The impetus of his load was more than he could resist. The +declivity was steep, but not precipitous. He rolled over and over for +perhaps two hundred feet, until he reached the foot of the ridge. We +looked with dismay as he went, and thought that every bone in his body +must have been broken. When we reached him, however, he was not dead, +but, with our aid, got up. How he escaped we could not divine, but he +looked pleased when he saw us come to his relief, and busy ourselves in +extricating him. We unloosed his pack, and did all we could to restore +him. We could not find any outward bruise; there was no cut, and no +blood was started. Even a horse loves sympathy. After a time, we +repacked him, and slowly continued our route. The delay caused by this +accident, made this a short day's journey; we did not suppose ourselves +to have advanced, in a direct line, over twelve miles. The valley is +very serpentine, redoubling on itself. + + +Nov. 20th. We found the stream made up entirely of pure springs, gushing +from the gravel, or rocks. Nothing can exceed the crystal purity of its +waters. These springs are often very large. We came to one, in the +course of this day, which we judged to be fifty feet wide. It rushes out +of an aperture in the rock, and joins the main branch of the river about +six hundred yards below, in a volume quite equal to that of the main +fork. I found an enormous pair of elk's horns lying on one side of the +spring, which I lifted up and hung in the forks of a young oak, and from +this incident named it the Elkhorn Spring. + +In forcing my way through the rank vines, weeds, and brush, which +encumber the valley below this point, I lost my small farrier's hammer +from my belt; a loss which was irreparable, as it was the only means we +had of setting a shoe on our horse, and had also served on ordinary +occasions as a mineral-hammer, instead of the heavier implement in the +pack. + +We often disturbed the black bear from his lair in the thick canebrakes, +but travelled with too much noise to overtake him. The deer frequently +bounded across the valley, while turkey, squirrel, duck, and smaller +game, were also abundant. + + +Nov. 21st. The bottom-lands continued to improve in extent and fertility +as we descended. The stream, as it wears its way into deeper levels of +the stratification of the country, presents, on either side, high cliffs +of rock. These cliffs, which consist of horizontal limestone, resting on +sandstone, frequently present prominent pinnacles, resembling ruinous +castellated walls. In some places they rise to an astonishing height, +and they are uniformly crowned with yellow pines. A remarkable formation +of this description appeared to-day, at the entrance of a tributary +stream through these walled cliffs, on the left bank, which I called +Tower Creek; it impressed one with the idea of the high walls of a +ruined battlement. + +The purity and transparency of the water are so remarkable, that it is +often difficult to estimate its depth in the river. A striking instance +of this occurred after passing this point. I was leading the horse. In +crossing from the east to the west bank, I had led Butcher to a spot +which I thought he could easily ford, without reaching above his knees. +He plunged in, however, over his depth, and, swimming across with his +pack, came to elevated shores on the other side, which kept him so long +in the water, and we were detained so long in searching for a suitable +point for him to mount, that almost everything of a soluble character in +his pack was either lost or damaged. Our salt and sugar were mostly +spoiled; our tea and Indian meal damaged; our skins, blankets, and +clothing, saturated. This mishap caused us a world of trouble. Though +early in the day, we at once encamped. I immediately built a fire, the +horse was speedily unpacked, and each particular article was examined, +and such as permitted it, carefully dried. This labor occupied us till a +late hour in the night. + + +Nov. 22d. Up to this point we had seen no Osages, of whose predatory +acts we had heard so much at Potosi, and on the sources of the Maramec; +nor any signs of their having been in this section of the country during +a twelvemonth, certainly not since spring. All the deserted camps, and +the evidences of encampment, were old. The bones of animals eaten, found +on the high plains east of Calamarca, and at the Elkhorn spring, were +bleached and dry. Not a vestige had appeared, since leaving the +Wall-cliffs, of a human being having recently visited the country. The +silence and desolateness of the wilderness reigned around. And when we +looked for evidences of an ancient permanent occupation of the region by +man, there were none--not a hillock raised by human hands, nor the +smallest object that could be deemed antiquarian. The only evidences of +ancient action were those of a geological kind--caverns, valleys of +denudation, beds of drift, boulders, water-lines and markings on the +faces of cliffs, which betokened oceanic overflow at very antique or +primary periods. + +The difficulties attending our progress down the valley, induced us to +strike out into the open prairie, where travelling was free, and +unimpeded by shrubbery or vines. Nothing but illimitable fields of +grass, with clumps of trees here and there, met the eye. We travelled +steadily, without diverging to the right or left. We sometimes disturbed +covies of prairie birds; the rabbit started from his sheltering bush, or +the deer enlivened the prospect. We had laid our course +south-south-west, and travelled about twenty miles. As evening +approached, we searched in vain for water, to encamp. In quest of it, we +finally entered a desolate gorge, which seemed, at some seasons, to have +been traversed by floods, as it disclosed boulders and piles of rubbish. +Daylight departed as we wound our way down this dry gorge, which was +found to be flanked, as we descended, with towering cliffs. In the +meantime, the heavens became overcast with dense black clouds, and rain +soon began to fall. We scanned these lofty cliffs closely, as we were in +a cavernous limestone country, for evidences of some practicable opening +which might give us shelter for the night. At length, after daylight had +gone, the dark mouth of a large cavern appeared on our left, at some +twenty or thirty feet elevation. The horse could not be led up this +steep, but, by unpacking him, we carried the baggage up, and then +hobbled and belled the poor beast, and left him to pick a meal as best +he could in this desolate valley. It was the best, and indeed the only +thing, we could do for him. + +It was not long before I had a fire in the cave, which threw its red +rays upon the outlines of the cavern, in a manner which would have +formed a study for Michael Angelo. It seemed that internal waters had +flowed out of this cavern for ages, carrying particle by particle of the +yielding rock, by which vast masses had been scooped out, or hung still +in threatening pendants. Its width was some forty feet, its height +perhaps double that space, and its depth illimitable. A small stream of +pure water glided along its bottom, and went trickling down the cliff. + +The accident in crossing the stream had saturated, but not ruined our +tea; and we soon had an infusion of it, to accompany our evening's +frugal repast--for _frugal_ indeed it became, in meats and bread, after +our irreparable loss of the day previous. Nothing is more refreshing +than a draught of tea in the wilderness, and one soon experiences that +this effect is due neither to milk nor sugar. The next thing to be done +after supper, was to light a torch and explore the recesses of the cave, +lest it should be occupied by some carnivorous beasts, who might fancy a +sleeping traveller for a night's meal. Sallying into its dark recesses, +gun and torch in hand, we passed up a steep ascent, which made it +difficult to keep our feet. This passage, at first, turned to the right, +then narrowed, and finally terminated in a low gallery, growing smaller +and smaller towards its apparent close. This passage became too low to +admit walking, but by the light of our torch, which threw its rays far +into its recesses, there appeared no possibility of our proceeding +further. We then retraced our steps to our fire in the front of the +cave, where there were evidences of Indian camp-fires. We then +replenished our fire with fuel, and spread down our pallets for the +night. My companion soon adjusted himself in a concave part of the rock, +and went to sleep. I looked out from the front of the cave to endeavor +to see the horse; but although I caught a sound of his bell, nothing +could be seen but intense darkness. The rain had been slight, and had +abated; but the cliffs in front, and the clouds above the narrow valley, +rendered it impossible to see anything beyond the reach of the +flickering rays of our fire. To its precincts I returned, and entered up +my journal of the events of the day. Our situation, and the +peculiarities of the scenery around us, led me to reflect on that +mysterious fate which, in every hazard, attends human actions, and, by +the light of the fire, I pencilled the annexed lines, and clapt down the +cavern in my journal as the Cave of Tula.[6] + +LINES WRITTEN IN A CAVE IN THE WILDERNESS OF ARKANSAS. + + O! thou, who, clothed in magic spell, + Delight'st in lonely wilds to dwell, + Resting in rift, or wrapped in air, + Remote from mortal ken, or care: + Genius of caverns drear and wild, + Hear a suppliant wandering child-- + One, who nor a wanton calls, + Or intruder in thy walls: + One, who spills not on the plain, + Blood for sport, or worldly gain, + Like his red barbarian kin, + Deep in murder--foul in sin; + Or, with high, horrific yells, + Rends thy dark and silent cells; + But, a devious traveller nigh, + Weary, hungry, parched, and dry; + One, who seeks thy shelter blest, + Not to riot, but to rest. + + Grant me, from thy crystal rill, + Oft my glittering cup to fill; + Let thy dwelling, rude and high, + Make my nightly canopy, + And, by superhuman walls, + Ward the dew that nightly falls. + Guard me from the ills that creep + On the houseless traveller's sleep-- + From the ravenous panther's spring, + From the scorpion's poisoned sting, + From the serpent--reptile curst-- + And the Indian's midnight thrust. + Grant me this, aerial sprite, + And a balmy rest by night, + Blest by visions of delight! + Let me dream of friendship true, + And that human ills are few; + Let me dream that boyhood's schemes + Are not, what I've found them, dreams; + And his hopes, however gay, + Have not flitted fast away. + Let me dream, I ne'er have felt, + Ease that pleases, joys that melt; + Or that I shall ever find + Honor fair, or fortune kind; + Dream that time shall sweetly fling, + In my path, perpetual spring. + Let me dream my bosom never + Felt the pang from friends to sever; + Or that life is not replete, + Or with loss, pain, wo, deceit. + Let me dream, misfortune's smart + Ne'er hath wrung my bleeding heart; + Nor its potent, galling sway, + Forced me far, O! far away; + Let me dream it--for I know, + When I wake, it is not so![7] + + +Nov. 23d. My first care this morning was to find Butcher, who had been +left, last night, with a sorry prospect. He was not to be found. I +followed our back track to the plains, whither he had gone for his +night's meal. By the time I returned with him, the forenoon was wellnigh +gone. We then travelled to the south-east. This brought us, in due time, +again into the valley of the North Fork. We found it less encumbered +with vines and thickets, and very much widened in its expansion between +bluff and bluff. We forded it, and found, on its eastern margin, +extensive open oak plains. On one of the most conspicuous trees were +marks and letters, which proved that it had been visited and singled out +for settlement by some enterprising pioneer. From the open character of +the country, we could not get near to large game; and we now found that +our supply of ball and shot was near its close. We passed down the +valley about ten miles, and encamped. Since the loss of our corn-meal, +we had had nothing in the shape of bread, and our provisions were now +reduced to a very small quantity of dried meat. We had expected, for +some days, to have reached either Indian or white hunters' camps. Our +anxiety on this head now became intense. Prudence required, however, +that, small as our stores were, they should be divided with strict +reference to the probability of our not meeting with hunters, or getting +relief, for two or three days. + + +Nov. 24th. The stick frames, without bark, of several Indian lodges, +were passed to-day, denoting that they had not been recently occupied. +Travelling down the opposite side of the vale from that taken by my +companion, who had charge of the horse, I came to a point on the bank of +the river, where I discovered two grown beavers sporting in the stream. +The tail of this animal, which appears clumsy and unwieldy in the dead +specimen, gives the animal a graceful appearance in the water, where it +makes him appear to have a very elongated body. After diving about for +some time, they came to the shore, and sat in front of their _wauzh_, as +it is termed by the Algonquins, or lodge, which in this case was a +fissure in the rock. I was perfectly screened by a point of the rock +from their view, and sat with my gun cocked, reserving my fire, a few +moments, the more perfectly to observe them, when both animals, at the +same instant, darted into their holes. + +Under the influence of a keen appetite, and a tolerably open forest, we +pressed on, this day, about fifteen miles; the horse being, as usual, +our chief hindrance. + + +Nov. 25th. I took the horse's bridle over my arm this morning, and had +proceeded through open woods about ten miles, when we descried, from a +little summit, a hut in the distance, which had some traits of the labor +of white men. This gave animation to our steps, in the hope of finding +it occupied. But, as we approached, we could discern no smoke rising up +as the sign of occupancy, and were disappointed to find it an abortive +effort of some pioneer, and, at the moment, called it Camp No. We +afterwards learned that it had been constructed by one Martin, who, as +there was not a foot of land in cultivation, had probably aimed to +subsist by the chase alone. The location was well chosen. A large +canebrake flanked the river, sufficient to give range to horses and +cattle. A little tributary stream bounded a fertile piece of upland, +east of this. The hut was built of puncheons, supported on one side by a +rude ridge-pole, leaving the front of it open, forming a shed which had +a roof and floor. But the stream had now dried up. We found a plant of +cotton, bolled out, among the adjacent weeds, which proved the soil and +climate suitable to its culture. We were now well within the probable +limits of Arkansas. + +It was determined to encamp at this spot, turn the horse into the +adjacent canebrake, where the leaves were green, to deposit our baggage +and camp apparatus in one corner of the hut, and, after making light +packs, to take our arms, and proceed in search of settlements. This +required a little time. To reach a point where civilization had once +tried to get a foothold, however, was something; and we consoled +ourselves with the reflection that we could not be remote from its +skirts. + +The next day (26th) I made an excursion west of the river, from our +position, about five miles, to determine satisfactorily our situation. I +found, on the opposite side of the valley, a little higher up, at the +foot of the cliff, another small (white man's) hut, which had also been +abandoned. In a small patch of ground, which had once been cleared, +there grew a pumpkin vine, which then had three pumpkins. This was a +treasure, which I at once secured. I found that one of them had been +partially eaten by some wild animal, and determined to give it to my +horse, but could not resist the inclination first to cut off a few +slices, which I ate raw with the greatest appetite. The taste seemed +delicious. I had not before been aware that my appetite had become so +keen by fasting; for we had had but little to eat for many days. Between +the horse and myself, we finished it, and had quite a sociable time of +it. With the other two, which were the largest, I rode back to camp, +where, having a small camp-kettle, we boiled and despatched them, +without meat or bread, for supper. It does not require much to make one +happy; for, in this instance, our little luck put us in the best of +humor. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[6] De Soto. + +[7] These lines were published in the Belles-Lettres Repository in 1821, +and shortly after, with a commendation, in the New York Statesman. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + ABANDON OUR CAMP AND HORSE IN SEARCH OF SETTLEMENTS--INCIDENTS + OF THE FIRST DAY--HEAR A SHOT--CAMP IN AN OLD INDIAN LODGE-- + ACORNS FOR SUPPER--KILL A WOODPECKER--INCIDENTS OF THE SECOND + DAY--STERILE RIDGES--WANT OF WATER--CAMP AT NIGHT IN A DEEP + GORGE--INCIDENTS OF THE THIRD DAY--FIND A HORSE-PATH, AND + PURSUE IT--DISCOVER A MAN ON HORSEBACK--REACH A HUNTER'S + CABIN--INCIDENTS THERE--HE CONDUCTS US BACK TO OUR OLD CAMP + --DESERTED THERE WITHOUT PROVISIONS--DEPLORABLE STATE--SHIFTS + --TAKING OF A TURKEY. + + +Nov. 27th. Action is the price of safety in the woods. Neither dreams +nor poetic visions kept us on our pallets a moment longer than it was +light enough to see the grey tints of morning. Each of us prepared a +compact knapsack, containing a blanket and a few absolute necessaries, +and gave our belts an extra jerk before lifting our guns to our +shoulders; then, secretly wishing our friend Butcher a good time in the +canebrake, we set out with a light pace towards the south. My companion +Bonee[8] was much attached to tea, and, as the article of a small tin +pot was indispensable to the enjoyment of this beverage, he burthened +himself with this appendage by strapping it on his back with a green +sash. This was not a very military sort of accoutrement; but as he did +not pride himself in that way, and had not, in fact, the least notion of +the ridiculous figure he cut with it, I was alone in my unexpressed +sense of the Fridayishness of his looks on the march, day by day, across +the prairies and through the woods, with this not very glittering +culinary appendage dangling at his back. + +Hope gave animation to our steps. We struck out from the valley +southerly, which brought us to an elevated open tract, partially wooded, +in which the walking was good. After travelling about six miles, we +heard the report of a gun on our left. Supposing it to proceed from some +white hunter, we tried to get into communication with him, and hallooed +stoutly. This was answered. I withdrew the ball from my gun, and fired. +We then followed the course of the shot and halloo. But, although a +whoop was once heard, which seemed from its intonation to be Indian, we +were unsuccessful in gaining an interview, and, after losing a good deal +of time in the effort, were obliged to give it up, and proceed. We had +now lost some hours. + +Much of our way lay through open oak forests, with a thick bed of fallen +leaves, and we several times searched under these for sweet acorns; but +we uniformly found that the wild turkeys had been too quick for +us--every sweet acorn had been scratched up and eaten, and none remained +but such as were bitter and distasteful. On descending an eminence, we +found the sassafras plentifully, and, breaking off branches of it, +chewed them, which took away the astringent and bad taste of the acorns. + +As night approached, we searched in vain for water on the elevated +grounds, and were compelled to seek the river valley, where we encamped +in an old Indian wigwam of bark, and found the night chilly and cold. We +turned restlessly on our pallets, waiting for day. + + +Nov. 28th. Daylight was most welcome. I built a fire against the stump +of a dead tree, which had been broken off by lightning at a height of +some thirty or forty feet from the ground. We here boiled our tea, and +accurately divided about half an ounce of dried meat, being the last +morsel we had. While thus engaged, a red-headed woodpecker lit on the +tree, some fifteen or twenty feet above our heads, and began pecking. +The visit was a most untimely one for the bird. In a few more moments, +he lay dead at the foot of the tree, and, being plucked, roasted, and +divided, furnished out our repast. We then gave the straps of our +accoutrements a tight jerk, by way of preventing a flaccid stomach--an +Indian habit--and set forward with renewed strength and hope. We +travelled this day over a rolling country of hill and dale, with little +to relieve the eye or demand observation, and laid down at night, +fatigued, in the edge of a canebrake. + + +Nov. 29th. A dense fog, which overhung the whole valley, prevented our +quitting camp at a very early hour. When it arose, and the atmosphere +became sufficiently clear to discern our way, we ascended the hills to +our left, and took a west-south-west course. + +Nothing can exceed the roughness and sterility of the country we have +to-day traversed, and the endless succession of steep declivities, and +broken, rocky precipices, surmounted. Our line of march, as soon as we +left the low grounds of the river valley, led over moderately elevated +ridges of oak-openings. We came at length to some hickory trees. Beneath +one of them, the nuts laid in quantities on the ground. We sat down, and +diligently commenced cracking them; but this was soon determined to be +too slow a process to satisfy hungry men, and, gathering a quantity for +our night's encampment, we pushed forward diligently. Tramp! tramp! +tramp! we walked resolutely on, in a straight line, over hill and dale. +Trees, rocks, prairie-grass, the jumping squirrel, the whirring +quail--we gave them a glance, and passed on. We finally saw the sun set; +evening threw its shades around; night presented its sombre hue; and, as +it grew dark, it became cloudy and cold. Still, no water to encamp by +was found, and it finally became so dark that we were forced to grope +our way. By groping in the darkness, we at length stood on the brink of +a precipice, and could distinctly hear the gurgling sound of running +water in the gulf below. It was a pleasing sound; for we had not tasted +a drop since early dawn. Had we still had our horse, we should not have +been able to get him down in the darkness; but, by seizing hold of +bushes, and feeling our way continually, we reached the bottom, and +encamped immediately by the stream. It was a small run of pure mountain +water. Soon a fire arose on its banks. We cracked a few of the nuts. We +drank our accustomed tin-cup of tea. We wrapped ourselves in our +blankets upon its immediate margin, and knew no more till early +daylight, when a cold air had quite chilled us. + + +Nov. 30th. We were happy to get out of this gulf at the earliest dawn. +After travelling a couple of miles, we stepped suddenly into a +well-beaten horse-path, running transversely to our course, with fresh +horse-tracks leading both ways. We stopped to deliberate which end of +the path to take. I thought the right-hand would conduct us to the mouth +of the river which we had been pursuing down, where it could hardly fail +there should be hunters or pioneer settlers located. My companion +thought the left hand should be taken, without offering any satisfactory +reason for it. I determined, in an instant, to rise above him mentally, +by yielding the point, and set out with a firm and ready pace to the +left. We travelled diligently about three miles without meeting anything +to note, but were evidently going back into the wilderness we had just +left, by a wider circuit, when my companion relented, and we turned +about on our tracks toward the mouth of the river. We had not gone far, +and had not yet reached the point of our original issue from the forest, +when we descried a man on horseback, coming toward us. Joy flashed in +our eyes. When he came up, he told us that there was a hunter located at +the mouth of the river, and another, named Wells, nearly equidistant on +the path he was pursuing; and that, if we would follow him, he would +guide us to the latter. This we immediately determined to do, and, after +travelling about seven miles, came in sight of the cabin. + +Our approach was announced by a loud and long-continued barking of dogs, +who required frequent bidding from their master before they could be +pacified. The first object worthy of remark that presented itself on our +emerging from the forest, was a number of deer, bear, and other skins, +fastened to a kind of rude frame, supported by poles, which occupied the +area about the house. These trophies of skill in the chase were regarded +with great complacency by our conductor, as he pointed them out, and he +remarked that Wells was "a great hunter, and a forehanded man." There +were a number of acres of ground, from which he had gathered a crop of +corn. The house was a substantial, new-built log tenement, of one room. +The family consisted of the hunter and his wife, and four or five +children, two of whom were men grown, and the youngest a boy of about +sixteen. All, males and females, were dressed in leather prepared from +deerskins. The host himself was a middle-sized, light-limbed, +sharp-faced man. Around the walls of the room hung horns of the deer and +buffalo, with a rifle, shot-pouches, leather coats, dried meats, and +other articles, giving unmistakeable signs of the vocation of our host. +The furniture was of his own fabrication. On one side hung a deerskin, +sewed up in somewhat the shape of the living animal, containing bears' +oil. In another place hung a similar vessel, filled with wild honey. + +All the members of the family seemed erudite in the knowledge of +woodcraft, the ranges and signs of animals, and their food and habits; +and while the wife busied herself in preparing our meal, she +occasionally stopped to interrogate us, or take part in the +conversation. When she had finished her preparations, she invited us to +sit down to a delicious meal of warm corn-bread and butter, honey and +milk, to which we did ample justice. A more satisfactory meal I never +made. + +It was late in the afternoon when our supper was prepared, and we spent +the evening in giving and receiving information of the highest practical +interest to each party. Wells recited a number of anecdotes of hunting, +and of his domestic life. We repaid him with full accounts of our +adventures. What appeared to interest him most, was the accounts of the +bears and other wild animals we had seen. When the hour for rest +arrived, we opened our sacks, and, spreading our blankets on a bearskin +which he furnished, laid down before the fire, and enjoyed a sound +night's repose. + + +Dec. 1st. We were up with the earliest dawning of light, and determined +to regain our position at Camp No, on the Great North Fork, with all +possible despatch, and pursue our tour westward. We had understood from +the conversation of the hunters among themselves, that they designed +forthwith to proceed on a hunting excursion into the region we had +passed, on the Great North Fork, and determined to avail ourselves of +their guidance to our deposits and horse. We understood that our course +from that point had been circuitous, and that the place could be reached +by a direct line of twenty miles' travel due north-west. We purchased +from our host a dressed deerskin for moccasins, a small quantity of +Indian corn, some wild honey, and a little lead. The corn required +pounding to convert it into meal. This we accomplished by a pestle, +fixed to a loaded swing-pole, playing into a mortar burned into an oak +stump. The payment for these articles, being made in money, excited the +man's cupidity; for, although he had previously determined on going in +that direction, he now refused to guide us to Camp No, unless paid for +it. This was also assented to, with the agreement to furnish us with the +carcase of a deer. + +By eleven o'clock, A. M., all was ready, and, shouldering our knapsacks +and guns, we set forward, accompanied by our host, his three sons, and a +neighbor, making our party to consist of seven men, all mounted on +horses but ourselves, and followed by a pack of hungry, yelping dogs. +Our course was due north-west. As we were heavily laden and sore-footed, +our shoes being literally worn from our feet by the stony tracts we had +passed over, the cavalcade were occasionally obliged to halt till we +came up. This proved such a cause of delay to them, that they finally +agreed to let us ride and walk, alternately, with the young men. In this +way we passed over an undulating tract, not heavily timbered, until +about ten o'clock at night, when we reached our abandoned camp, where we +found our baggage safe. A couple of the men had been detached from the +party, early in the morning, to hunt the stipulated deer; but they did +not succeed in finding any, and came in long before us, with a pair of +turkeys. One of these we despatched for supper, and then all betook +themselves to repose. + + +Dec. 2d. One of the first objects that presented itself this morning was +our horse Butcher, from the neighboring canebrake, who did not seem to +have well relished his fare on cane leaves, and stood doggedly in front +of our cabin, with a pertinacity which seemed to say, "Give me my +portion of corn." Poor animal! he had not thriven on the sere grass and +scanty water of the Ozarks, where he had once tumbled down the sides of +a cliff with a pack on, been once plunged in the river beyond his depth, +and often struggled with the tangled greenbriar of the valleys, which +held him by the foot. With every attention, he had fallen away; and he +seemed to anticipate that he was yet destined to become wolf's-meat on +the prairies. + +The hunters were up with the earliest dawn, and several of them went out +in quest of game, recollecting their promise to us on that head; but +they all returned after an absence of a couple of hours, unsuccessful. +By this time we had cooked the other turkey for breakfast, which just +sufficed for the occasion. The five men passed a few moments about the +fire, then suddenly caught and saddled their horses, and, mounting +together, bid us good morning, and rode off. We were taken quite aback +by this movement, supposing that they would have felt under obligation, +as they had been paid for it, to furnish us some provisions. We looked +intently after them, as they rode up the long sloping eminence to the +north of us. They brought forcibly to my mind the theatrical +representation, in the background, of the march of the Forty Thieves, as +they wind down the mountain, before they present themselves at the front +of the cave, with its charmed gates. But there was no "open sesame!" for +us. Cast once more on our own resources in the wilderness, the +alternative seemed to be pressed upon our minds, very forcibly, "hunt or +starve." Serious as the circumstances appeared, yet, when we reflected +upon their manners and conversation, their obtuseness to just +obligation, their avarice, and their insensibility to our actual wants, +we could not help rejoicing that they were gone. + + +Dec. 3d. Left alone, we began to reflect closely on our situation, and +the means of extricating ourselves from this position. If we had called +it camp "No" from our disappointment at not finding it inhabited on our +first arrival, it was now again appropriately camp "No," from not +obtaining adequate relief from the hunters. We had procured a dressed +buckskin for making moccasins. We had a little pounded corn, in a shape +to make hunters' bread. We had not a mouthful of meat. I devoted part of +the day to making a pair of Indian shoes. We had not a single charge of +shot left. We had procured lead enough to mould just five bullets. This +I carefully did. I then sallied out in search of game, scanning +cautiously the neighboring canebrake, and fired, at different times, +three balls, unsuccessfully, at turkeys. It was evident, as I had the +birds within range, that my gun had been sprung in the heavy fall I had +had, as before related, in the crossing Calamarca. My companion then +took _his_ gun, and also made an unsuccessful shot. When evening +approached, a flock of turkeys came to roost near by. We had now just +_one_ ball left; everything depended on _that_. I took it to the large +and firm stump of an oak, and cut it into exactly thirty-two pieces, +with geometrical precision. I then beat the angular edges of each, until +they assumed a sufficiently globular shape to admit of their being +rolled on a hard surface, under a pressure. This completed their +globular form. I then cleansed my companion's gun, and carefully loaded +it with the thirty-two shot. We then proceeded to the roost, which was +on some large oaks, in a contiguous valley. I carried a torch, which I +had carefully made at the camp. My companion took the loaded gun, and I, +holding the torch near the sights at the same time, so that its rays +fell directly on the birds, he selected one, and fired. It proved to be +one of the largest and heaviest, and fell to the earth with a sound. We +now returned to camp, and prepared a part of it for supper, determining +to husband the remainder so as to last till we should reach settlements +by holding a due west course. + + +Dec. 4th. We had prepared ourselves to start west this day; but it +rained from early dawn to dark, which confined us closely to our cabin. +Rain is one of the greatest annoyances to the woodsman. Generally, he +has no shelter against it, and must sit in it, ride in it, or walk in +it. Where there is no shelter, the two latter are preferable. But, as we +had a split-board roof, we kept close, and busied ourselves with more +perfect preparations for our next sally. I had some minerals that +admitted of being more closely and securely packed, and gladly availed +myself of the opportunity to accomplish it. Our foot and leg gear, also, +required renovating. Experience had been our best teacher from the +first; and hunger and danger kept us perpetually on the _qui vive_, and +made us wise in little expedients. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[8] Elision of Pettibone. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + PROCEED WEST--BOG OUR HORSE--CROSS THE KNIFE HILLS--REACH THE + UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER--ABANDON THE HORSE AT A HUNTER'S, AND + PROCEED WITH PACKS--OBJECTS OF PITY--SUGAR-LOAF PRAIRIE-- + CAMP UNDER A CLIFF--FORD THE UNICA TWICE--DESCEND INTO A + CAVERN--REACH BEAVER RIVER, THE HIGHEST POINT OF OCCUPANCY + BY A HUNTER POPULATION. + + +Dec. 5th. The rain ceased during the night, and left us a clear +atmosphere in the morning. At an early hour we completed the package of +the horse, and, taking the reins, I led him to the brink of the river, +and with difficulty effected a passage. The cliffs which formed the +western side of the valley, presented an obstacle not easily surmounted. +By leading the animal in a zigzag course, however, this height was +finally attained. The prospect, as far as the eye could reach, was +discouraging. Hill on hill rose before us, with little timber, it is +true, to impede us, but implying a continual necessity of crossing +steeps and depressions. After encountering this rough surface about two +miles, we came into a valley having a stream tributary to the Great +North Fork of White river, which we had quitted that morning, but at a +higher point. In this sub-valley we found our way impeded by another +difficulty--namely, the brush and small canes that grew near the brook. +To avoid this impediment, I took the horse across a low piece of ground, +having a thicket, but which appeared to be firm. In this I was mistaken; +for the animal's feet soon began to sink, and ere long he stuck fast. +The effort to extricate him but served to sink him deeper, and, by +pawing to get out, he continually widened the slough in which he had +sunk. We then obtained poles, and endeavored to pry him up; but our own +footing was continually giving way, and we at length beheld him in a +perfect slough of soft black mud. After getting his pack off, we decided +to leave him to his fate. We carried the pack to dry ground, on one side +of the valley, and spread the articles out, not without deeply +regretting the poor beast's plight. But then it occurred to us that, if +the horse were abandoned, we must also abandon our camp-kettle, large +axe, beds, and most of our camp apparatus; and another and concentrated +effort was finally resolved on. To begin, we cut down two tall saplings, +by means of which the horse was pried up from the bottom of the slough. +He was then grasped by the legs and turned over, which brought his feet +in contact with the more solid part of the ground. A determined effort, +both of horse and help, now brought him to his feet. He raised himself +up, and, by pulling with all our might, we brought him on dry ground. I +then led him gently to our place of deposit, and, by means of bunches of +sere grass, we both busied ourselves first to rub off the mud and wet, +and afterwards to groom him, and rub him dry. When he was properly +restored, it was found that he was able to carry his pack-saddle and +pack; and he was led slowly up the valley about three miles, where we +encamped. The grass in this little valley was of a nourishing quality, +and by stopping early we allowed him to recruit himself. We did not +estimate our whole distance this day at more than nine miles. + + +Dec. 6th. Butcher had improved his time well in the tender grass during +the night, and presented a more spirited appearance in the morning. We +were now near the head of Bogbrook, which we had been following; and as +we quitted its sides, long to be remembered for our mishap, we began to +ascend an elevated and bleak tract of the Mocama or Knife hills, so +called, over which the winds rushed strongly as we urged our way. Few +large trees were seen on these eminences, which were often bare, with a +hard cherty footing, replaced sometimes by clusters of brambles and +thickets. In one of these, a valuable _couteau de chasse_ was swept from +its sheath at my side, and lost. I was now reduced to a single knife, +of the kind fabricated for the Indians, under the name of scalper. For a +distance of sixteen miles we held on our way, in a west-south-west +course, turning neither to the right nor left. As night approached, we +found ourselves descending into a considerable valley, caused by a +river. The shrubbery and grass of its banks had been swept by fire in +the fall, and a new crop of grass was just rising. We formed our +encampment in this fire-swept area, which afforded Butcher another +benefit, and made some amends for his scanty fare among the bleak +eminences of the Ozarks. This stream proved to be the Little North Fork +of White river. We here despatched the last morsel of our turkey. + + +Dec. 7th. The ascent of the hills which bounded the valley on the +south-west was found to be very difficult; and when the summit was +reached, there spread before us an extensive prairie, of varied surface. +Trees occasionally appeared, but were in no place so thickly diffused as +to prevent the growth of a beautiful carpet of prairie grass. When we +had gone about six miles, a bold mound-like hill rose on our left, which +seemed a favorable spot for getting a view of the surrounding country. +We had been told by the hunters that in travelling fifteen miles about +west, we should reach a settlement at Sugar-loaf Prairie, on the main +channel of the Unica or White river. But on reaching the summit of this +natural look-out, we could descry nothing that betokened human +habitation. As far as the eye could reach, prairies and groves filled +the undulating vista. On reaching its foot again, where our horse was +tied, we changed our course to the south, believing that our directions +had been vague. We had gone about a mile in this direction, when we +entered a faint and old horse-path. This gave animation to our steps. We +pursued it about three miles, when it fell into another and plainer +path, having the fresh tracks of horses. We were now on elevated ground, +which commanded views of the country all around. Suddenly the opposite +side of a wide valley appeared to open far beneath us, and, stepping +forward the better to scan it, the river of which we were in search +presented its bright, broad, and placid surface to our view, at several +hundred feet below. We stood admiringly on the top of a high, rocky, and +precipitous cliff. Instinctively to shout, was my first impulse. My +companion, as he came up, also shouted. We had reached the object of our +search. + +Pursuing the brow of the precipice about a mile, a log building and some +fields were discovered on the opposite bank. On descending the path +whose traces we had followed, it brought us to a ford. We at once +prepared to cross the river, which was four or five hundred yards wide, +reaching, in some places, half-leg high. On ascending the opposite bank, +we came to the house of a Mr. M'Garey, who received us with an air of +hospitality, and made us welcome to his abode. He had several grown +sons, who were present, and who, as we found by their costume and +conversation, were hunters. Mrs. M'G. was engaged in trying bears' fat, +and in due time she invited us to sit down to a meal of these scraps, +with excellent corn-bread and sassafras tea, with sugar and milk, served +in cups. + +M'Garey had a bluff frankness of manner, with an air of independence in +the means of living, and an individuality of character, which impressed +us favorably. He told us that we were eight hundred miles west of the +Mississippi by the stream, that White river was navigable by keel-boats +for this distance, and that there were several settlements on its banks. +He had several acres in cultivation in Indian corn, possessed horses, +cows, and hogs, and, as we observed at the door, a hand-mill. At a +convenient distance was a smokehouse, where meats were preserved. I +observed a couple of odd volumes of books on a shelf. He was evidently a +pioneer on the Indian land. He said that the Cherokees had been +improperly located along the western bank of White river, extending to +the Arkansas, and that the effect was to retard and prevent the purchase +and settlement of the country by the United States. He complained of +this, as adverse to the scattered hunters, who were anxious to get +titles for their lands. He did not represent the Cherokees as being +hostile, or as having committed any depredations. But he depicted the +Osages as the scourge and terror of the country. They roamed from the +Arkansas to the Missouri frontier, and pillaged whoever fell in their +way. He detailed the particulars of a robbery committed in the very +house we were sitting in, when they took away horses, clothes, and +whatever they fancied. They had visited him in this way twice, and +recently stole from him eight beaver-skins; and during their last foray +in the valley, they had robbed one of his neighbors, called Teen Friend, +of all his arms, traps, and skins, and detained him a prisoner. This +tribe felt hostile to all the settlers on the outskirts of Missouri and +Arkansas, and were open robbers and plunderers of all the whites who +fell defenceless into their hands. They were, he thought, particularly +to be dreaded in the region which we proposed to explore. He also said +that the Osages were hostile to the newly-arrived Cherokees, who had +migrated from the east side of the Mississippi, and had settled in the +country between the Red river and Arkansas, and that these tribes were +daily committing trespasses upon each other. Having myself, but a short +time before, noticed the conclusion of a peace between the western +Cherokees and Osages at St. Louis, before General Clark, I was surprised +to hear this; but he added, as an illustration of this want of faith, +that when the Cherokees returned from that treaty, they pursued a party +of Osages near the banks of White river, and stole twenty horses from +them. + + +Dec. 8th. On comparing opinions, for which purpose we had an interview +outside the premises, it seemed that these statements were to be +received with some grains of allowance. They were natural enough for a +victim of Indian robberies, and doubtless true; but the events had not +been recent, and they were not deemed sufficient to deter us from +proceeding in our contemplated tour to the higher Ozarks at the sources +of the river. It was evident that we had erred a good deal from our +stick bridge at Calamarca, from the proper track; but we were +nevertheless determined not to relinquish our object. + +Having obtained the necessary information, we determined to pursue our +way, for which purpose we turned the horse to graze with M'Garey's, rid +ourselves of all our heavy baggage by depositing it with him, and +prepared our knapsacks for this new essay. When ready, our host refused +to take any pay for his hospitalities, but, conducting us to his +smokehouse, opened the door, and then, drawing his knife from its +sheath, placed it, with an air of pomposity, in my hand, offering the +handle-end, and said, "Go in and cut." I did so, taking what appeared to +be sufficient to last us to our next expected point of meeting hunters. +The place was well filled with buffalo and bear meat, both smoked and +fresh, hanging on cross-bars. + +At nine o'clock we bade our kind entertainer adieu, and, taking +directions to reach Sugar-loaf Prairie, crossed over the river by the +same ford which we had taken in our outward track from Camp No, in the +valley of the Great North Fork. Relieved from the toilsome task of +leading the horse, we ascended the opposite cliffs with alacrity, and +vigorously pursued our course, over elevated ground, for about sixteen +miles. The path then became obscure; the ground was so flinty and hard, +that it was in vain we searched for tracks of horses' feet. Some time +was lost in this search, and we finally encamped in a cane bottom in the +river valley. + +My companion had again charged himself with the coffeepot, which he +carried in a similar manner at his back; and when I came to open my +pack, told me he thought I had not cut deep enough into the dried bear's +meat of M'Garey's smokehouse. To a man who refused all pay, and had been +invariably kind, I felt that moderation, in this respect, was due. I +was, besides, myself to be the carrier of it; and we, indeed, never had +cause to regret the carefulness of my selection. + + +Dec. 9th. Finding ourselves in the river's bottom, we forced our way, +with no small effort, through the thick growth of cane and vines. We +had, perhaps, advanced seven miles through this dense vegetation, when +we suddenly burst into a small cleared space. Here, in a little, +incomplete shanty, we found a woman and her young child. She had not a +morsel to eat, and looked half famished. Her husband had gone into the +forest to hunt something to eat. The child looked feeble. We were +touched at the sight, and did all we could to relieve them. They had +been in that position of new-comers about two weeks, having come up from +the lower parts of the river. + +From this point, we ascended the river hills eastwardly, and pursued our +journey along an elevated range to the Sugar-loaf Prairie--a name which +is derived from the striking effects of denudation on the limestone +cliffs, which occupy the most elevated positions along this valley. We +were received with blunt hospitality by a tall man in leather, called +Coker, whose manner appears to be characteristic of the hunter. Our +approach was heralded by the usual loud and long barking of dogs, and we +found the premises surrounded by the invariable indications of a +successful hunter--skins of the bear and other animals, stretched out on +frames to dry. + +We were no sooner at home with our entertainer, than he began to +corroborate what we had before heard of the hostility of the Osages. He +considered the journey at this season hazardous, as he thought they had +not yet broke up their fall hunting-camps, and retired to their villages +on the Grand Osaw (Osage). He also thought it a poor season for game, +and presented a rather discouraging prospect to our view. My gun having +proved useless, we tried to obtain a rifle which he possessed, and +seemed willing to part with, but not at a reasonable price. + +Mr. Coker represented the settlers of Sugar-loaf Prairie to consist of +four families, situated within the distance of eight miles, including +both banks of the river. This was exclusive of two families living at +Beaver creek, the highest point yet occupied. + + +Dec. 10th. It was noon before we were prepared to depart from Coker's. +The old man refused to take anything for our meals and lodging; and we +bade him adieu, after taking his directions as to the best route to +pursue to reach Beaver creek, our next point. We travelled through a +lightly-timbered, hilly, barren country, about eight miles, when the +skies became overcast, and some rain fell. It was still an early hour to +encamp, but we came at this time into a small ravine, with running +water, which had on one bank a shelving cave in the limestone rock, +forming a protection from the rain. We built a fire from red cedar, +which emitted a strong aromatic odor. The weather begins to assume a +wintry character; this is the first day we have been troubled with cold +fingers. + + +Dec. 11th. We left our camp at the cave on Cedar brook, and resumed our +march at an early hour, and found the face of the country still rough +and undulating, but covered, to a great extent, with brush. My companion +thought we had gone far enough to have struck the waters of the Beaver, +and, as he carried the compass this day, he deviated westward from the +intended course. This brought us to the banks of a river, which he +insisted, contrary to my opinion, must be the Beaver. To me this did not +seem probable, but, yielding the point to him, we forded the stream at +waist deep. We then ascended a lofty and difficult range of river hills, +and, finding ourselves now at the level of the country, we held on in a +westerly course, till it became clearly evident, even to my companion, +that we were considerably west of the White river. We then retraced our +steps, descended the river hills to the bank of the stream, and followed +up its immediate margin, in search of a convenient spot for encampment; +for, by this time, night approached rapidly. We were soon arrested by a +precipitous cliff, against the base of which the river washed. As the +sun sank lower, we felt a keen and cold wind, but could not find a stick +of wood on the western bank with which to kindle a fire. The alternative +presented to us was, either to remain here all night without a fire, +exposed to the chilling blast, or cross a deep stream to the opposite +shore, where there was an extensive alluvial plain, covered with trees +and the cane plant, and promising an abundance of fuel. + +Night had already closed around us, when we decided to cross the river. +We found it to be four or five feet deep, and some two hundred yards +wide. When we got over, it was with great difficulty that we succeeded +in collecting a sufficiency of dry materials to kindle a fire; and by +the time we had accomplished it, our wet clothes had become stiff and +cold, the wind at the same time blowing very fiercely. Our utmost +efforts were required to dry and warm ourselves, nor did we attain +these points in a sufficient degree to secure a comfortable night's +rest. + + +Dec. 12th. The ground this morning was covered with white hoar-frost, +with a keen and cold air, and a wintry sky. Early daylight found us +treading our way across the low grounds to the cliffs. We soon ascended +on an elevated rocky shore, bordering the river, which was completely +denuded of trees and shrubbery. It was early, the sun not having yet +risen, when we beheld before us, rising out of the ground, a column of +air which appeared to be of a warmer temperature. Its appearance was +like that of smoke from a chimney on a frosty morning. On reaching it, +the phenomenon was found to be caused by a small orifice in the earth, +from which rarefied air issued. On looking down intently, and partially +excluding the light, it was seen to be a fissure in the limestone rock, +with jagged, narrow sides, leading down into a cavern. I determined to +try the descent, and found the opening large enough to admit my body. +Feeling for a protuberance on which to rest my feet, and closely +pressing the sides of the orifice, I slowly descended. My fear was that +the crevice would suddenly enlarge, and let me drop. But I descended in +safety. I thus let myself down directly about twenty feet, and came to +the level floor of a gallery which led in several directions. The light +from above was sufficient to reveal the dark outlines of a ramified +cavern, and to guide my footsteps for a distance. I went as far in the +largest gallery as the light cast any direct rays, but found nothing at +all on the floor or walls to reward my adventure. It was a notable +fissure in a carbonate of lime, entirely dry, and without stalactites. +What I most feared in these dim recesses, was some carnivorous animal, +for whose residence it appeared to be well adapted. Having explored it +as far as I could command any light to retrace my steps, I returned to +the foot of the original orifice. I found no difficulty, by pressing on +each side, in ascending to the surface, bringing along a fragment of the +limestone rock. I afterwards observed, while descending the river, that +this cavern was in a high, precipitous part of the coast, of calcareous +rock, the foot of which was washed by the main channel of White river. + +We now resumed our march, and, at the distance of about six miles, +reached Beaver creek, a mile or two above its mouth. It is a beautiful, +clear stream, of sixty yards wide, with a depth of two feet, and a hard, +gravelly bottom. We forded it, and, keeping down the bank, soon fell +into a horse-path, which led us, in following it about a mile and a +half, to a hunter's dwelling, occupied by a man named Fisher. He +received us in a friendly manner, and we took up our abode with him. Six +or eight hundred yards higher, there was another cabin, occupied by a +man named Holt. Both had been but a short time located at this place; +they had not cleared any ground, nor even finished the log houses they +occupied. Both buildings were on the bank of the river, on the edge of a +large and very fertile bottom, well wooded, and with a very picturesque +coast of limestone opposite, whose denuded pinnacles had received the +name of the Little Tower. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + OBSTACLE PRODUCED BY THE FEAR OF OSAGE HOSTILITY--MEANS + PURSUED TO OVERCOME IT--NATURAL MONUMENTS OF DENUDATION IN + THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS--PURITY OF THE WATER--PEBBLES OF + YELLOW JASPER--COMPLETE THE HUNTERS' CABINS--A JOB IN + JEWELLERY--CONSTRUCT A BLOWPIPE FROM CANE--WHAT IS THOUGHT + OF RELIGION. + + +Dec. 13th. Holt and Fisher were the highest occupants of the White river +valley. They had reached this spot about four months before, and had +brought their effects partly on pack-horses, and partly in canoes. The +site was judiciously chosen. A finer tract of rich river bottom could +not have been found, while the site commanded an illimitable region, +above and around it, for hunting the deer, buffalo, elk, and other +species, besides the beaver, otter, and small furred animals, which are +taken in traps. We tried, at first vainly, to persuade them to accompany +us in our further explorations. To this they replied that it was Osage +hunting-ground, and that tribe never failed to plunder and rob all +who fell in their power, particularly hunters and trappers. And besides, +they were but recent settlers, and had not yet completed their houses +and improvements. + +As we were neither hunters nor trappers, we had no fears of Osage +hostility; for this was, in a measure, the just retribution of that +tribe for an intrusion on their lands, and the destruction of its game, +which constituted its chief value to them. Nor did we anticipate +encountering them at all, at this season, as they must have withdrawn, +long ere this, to their villages on the river Osage. + + +Dec. 14th. There appears no other way to induce the hunters to go with +us, but to aid them in completing their cottages and improvements. This +we resolved to do. Holt then agreed to accompany us as a guide and +huntsman, with the further stipulation that he was to have the horse +which had been left at M'Garey's, and a small sum of money, with liberty +also to undertake a journey to the settlements below for corn. Hereupon, +Fisher also consented to accompany us. + + +Dec. 15th. This obstacle to our movements being overcome, we busied +ourselves in rendering to the hunters all the assistance in our power, +and made it an object to show them that we could do this effectively. We +began by taking hold of the frow and axe, and aiding Holt to split +boards for covering a portion of the roof of his house. I doubt whether +my companion had ever done the like work before; I am sure I never had; +but having thrown myself on this adventure, I most cheerfully submitted +to all its adverse incidents. + + +Dec. 16th. This morning, Holt and Fisher--the latter accompanied by his +son, with three horses--set out on their journey to purchase corn, +leaving us, in the interim, to provide fuel for their families; a labor +by no means light, as the cold was now severe, and was daily growing +more intense. To-day, for the first time, we observed floating ice in +the river; and, even within the cabins, water exposed in vessels for a +few moments, acquired a thin coating of ice. + + +Dec. 17th. At daybreak we built a substantial, rousing fire in the +cabin, of logs several feet long; we then pounded the quantity of corn +necessary for the family's daily use. This process brings the article +into the condition of coarse grits, which are boiled soft, and it then +bears the name of homony. Of this nutritious dish our meals generally +consist, with boiled or fried bear's bacon, and a decoction of sassafras +tea. The fat of the bear is very white and delicate, and appears to be +more digestible than fresh pork, which is apt to cloy in the stomach. +After breakfast, wishing to give the hunters evidence of our capacity of +being useful, we took our axes and sallied out into the adjoining wood, +and began to fell the trees, cut them into proper lengths for firewood, +and pile the brush. About five o'clock, we were summoned to our second +meal, which is made to serve as dinner and supper. We then carried up +the quantity of firewood necessary for the night. This consumed the +remainder of the short December day; and, before lying down for the +night, we replenished the ample fire. This sketch may serve as an +outline of our daily industry, during the eleven days we tarried with +the hunters. + + +Dec. 18th. I have mentioned the fondness of my companion for tea. This +afternoon he thought to produce an agreeable surprise in our hostess's +mind, by preparing a dish of young hyson. But she sipped it as she would +have done the decoction of some bitter herb, and frankly confessed that +she did not like it as well as the forest substitutes, namely, +sassafras, dittany, and spicewood. And the manner in which she alluded +to it as "store tea," plainly denoted the article not to be numbered +among the wants of a hunter's life. + + +Dec. 19th. The river having been closed with ice within the last two +days, we crossed it this afternoon to visit the two pyramidal monuments +of geological denudation which mark the limestone range of the opposite +shore. I determined, if possible, to ascend one of them. The ascent lies +through a defile of rocks. By means of projections, which could +sometimes be reached by cedar roots, and now and then a leap or a +scramble, I succeeded in ascending one of them to near its apex, which +gave me a fine view of the windings of the river. The monuments consist +of stratified limestone, which has, all but these existing peaks, +crumbled under the effects of disintegration. I observed no traces of +organic remains. It appeared to be of the same general character with +the metalliferous beds of Missouri, and is, viewed in extenso, like +that, based on grey or cream-colored sand-rock. I found this limestone +rock cavernous, about seven miles below. + +In crossing the river, I was impressed with the extreme purity of the +water. The ice near the cliffs having been formed during a calm night, +presented the crystalline purity of glass, through which every +inequality, pebble, and stone in its bed, could be plainly perceived. +The surface on which we stood was about an inch thick, bending as we +walked. The depth of water appeared to be five or six feet; but I was +told that it was fully twenty. The pebbles at this place are often a +small, pear-shaped, opaque, yellow jasper. They appear to have been +disengaged from some mineral bed at a higher point on the stream. + + +Dec. 20th. Observed as a day of rest, it being the Sabbath. The +atmosphere is sensibly milder, and attended with haziness, which appears +to betoken rain. + + +Dec. 21st. We employed ourselves till three o'clock in hewing and +splitting planks for Holt's cabin floor, when rain compelled us to +desist. + +The following circumstance recently occurred here: Two hunters had a +dispute about a horse, which it was alleged one had stolen from the +other; the person aggrieved, meeting the other some days after in the +woods, shot him dead. He immediately fled, keeping the woods for several +weeks; when the neighboring hunters, aroused by so glaring an outrage, +assembled and set out in quest of him. Being an expert woodsman, the +offender eluded them for some time; but at last they obtained a glimpse +of him as he passed through a thicket, when one of his pursuers shot him +through the shoulder, but did not kill him. This event happened a few +days before our arrival in this region. It will probably be the cause of +several murders, before the feud is ended. + + +Dec. 22d. The rain having ceased, we resumed and completed our job of +yesterday at Holt's. The atmosphere is hazy, damp, and warm. + +My medical skill had not been called on since the affair at the Four +Bear creek, where my companion sprained his ankle. The child of Mrs. +Holt was taken ill with a complaint so manifestly bilious, that I gave +it relief by administering a few grains of calomel. This success led to +an application from her neighbor, Mrs. F., whose delicate situation made +the responsibility of a prescription greater. This also proved +favorable, and I soon had other applicants. + + +Dec. 23d. About ten o'clock this morning, Holt and Fisher returned, +laden with corn. The day was mild and pleasant, the severity of the +atmosphere having moderated, and the sky become clear and bright. They +appeared to be pleased with the evidences of our thrift and industry +during their absence, and we now anticipated with pleasure an early +resumption of our journey. To this end, we were resolved that nothing +should be wanting on our part. We had already faithfully devoted seven +days to every species of labor that was necessary to advance their +improvements. + + +Dec. 24th. I had yesterday commenced hewing out a table for Holt's +domicile, from a fine, solid block of white-ash. I finished the task +to-day, to the entire admiration of all. We now removed our lodgings +from Fisher's to Holt's, and employed the remainder of the day in +chinking and daubing his log house. + +Of these two men, who had pushed themselves to the very verge of western +civilization, it will be pertinent to say, that their characters were +quite different. Holt was the better hunter, and more social and ready +man. He was quick with the rifle, and suffered no animal to escape him. +Fisher was of a more deliberative temperament, and more inclined to +surround himself with the reliances of agriculture. He was also the +better mechanic, and more inclined to labor. Holt hated labor like an +Indian, and, like an Indian, relied for subsistence on the chase +exclusively. Fisher was very superstitious, and a believer in +witchcraft. Holt was scarcely a believer in anything, but was ever ready +for action. He could talk a little Chickasaw, and had several of their +chansons, which he sung. Both men had kept for years moving along on the +outer frontiers, ever ready for a new remove; and it was plain enough, +to the listener to their tales of wild adventure, that they had not been +impelled, thus far, on the ever advancing line of border life, from the +observance of any of the sterner virtues or qualities of civilized +society. There were occasions in their career, if we may venture an +opinion, when to shoot a deer, or to shoot a man, were operations that +could be performed "agreeably to circumstances." To us, however, they +were uniformly kind, frank, friendly; for, indeed, there was no possible +light in which our interests were brought in conflict. We were no +professed hunters, and our journey into the Ozark hunting-grounds was an +advantage to them, by making them better acquainted with the geography +of their position. + +They could not quit home on such a journey, however, without leaving +some meat for their families; and they both set out to-day for this +purpose. It appeared that they had, some days before, killed on a river +bottom, about twelve miles above this point in the river valley, a +buffalo, a bear, and a panther; but, not having horses with them, had +scaffolded the carcases of the two former. Notwithstanding this +precaution, the wolves had succeeded in reaching the buffalo meat, and +had partly destroyed it. The carcase of the bear was safe. They returned +in the afternoon with their trophies. They also brought down some of the +leg-bones of the buffalo, for the sake of their marrow. They are boiled +in water, to cook the marrow, and then cracked open. The quantity of +marrow is immense. It is eaten while hot, with salt. We thought it +delicious. + +We learn by conversing with the hunters that a high value is set upon +the dog, and that they are sought with great avidity. We heard of one +instance where a cow was given for a good hunting dog. + + +Dec. 25th, Christmas day. At our suggestion, the hunters went out to +shoot some turkeys for a Christmas dinner, and, after a couple of hours' +absence, returned with fourteen. In the meantime, we continued our +labors in completing the house. + +I prevailed on our hostess, to-day, to undertake a turkey-pie, with a +crust of Indian meal; and, the weather being mild, we partook of it +under the shade of a tree, on the banks of the river. + + +Dec. 26th. Having now obviated every objection, and convinced the +hunters that no dangers were to be apprehended at this late season from +the Osages, and having completed the preparations for the tour, +to-morrow is fixed on as the time of starting. + +Our hostess mentioned to me that she had a brass ring, which she had +worn for many years, and declared it to be an infallible remedy for the +cramp, with which she had been much afflicted before putting it on, but +had not had the slightest return of it since. She was now much +distressed on account of having lately broken it; and, observing the +care I bestowed on my mineralogical packages, she thought I must possess +skill in such affairs, and solicited me to mend it. It was in vain that +I represented that I had no blowpipe or other necessary apparatus for +the purpose. She was convinced I could do it, and I was unwilling to +show a disobliging disposition by refusing to make the attempt. I +therefore contrived to make a blowpipe by cutting several small pieces +of cane, and fitting one into the other until the aperture was drawn +down to the required degree of fineness. A hollow cut in a billet of +wood, and filled with live hickory coals, answered instead of a lamp; +and with a small bit of silver money, and a little borax applied to the +broken ring, with my wooden blowpipe, I soon soldered it, and afterwards +filed off the redundant silver with a small file. I must remark that the +little file and bit of borax, without which the job could not have been +accomplished, was produced from the miscellaneous housewife of my +hostess. + + +Dec. 27th. Rain, which began at night, rendered it impossible to think +of starting to-day. It was the Sabbath, and was improved as a time of +rest and reflection. I took the occasion to make some allusions, in a +gentle and unobtrusive way, to the subject, and, in connection with some +remarks which one of my entertainers had made a few days previously, on +the subject of religion generally, condense the following +observations:--He said that while living on the banks of the +Mississippi, a few years ago, he occasionally attended religious +meetings, and thought them a very good thing; but he had found one of +the preachers guilty of a gross fraud, and determined never to go again. +He thought that a man might be as good without going to church as with +it, and that it seemed to him to be a useless expenditure, &c.; very +nearly, indeed, the same kind of objections which are made by careless +and unbelieving persons everywhere, I fancy, _in_ the woods or _out_ of +them. + +The hardships of the hunter's life fall heavily on females. Mrs. Holt +tells me that she has not lived in a floored cabin for several +years--that during this period they have changed their abode many +times--and that she has lost four children, who all died under two +years. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + PROCEED INTO THE HUNTING-COUNTRY OF THE OSAGES--DILUVIAL HILLS + AND PLAINS--BALD HILL--SWAN CREEK--OSAGE ENCAMPMENTS--FORM + OF THE OSAGE LODGE--THE HABITS OF THE BEAVER--DISCOVER A + REMARKABLE CAVERN IN THE LIMESTONE ROCK, HAVING NATURAL VASES + OF PURE WATER--ITS GEOLOGICAL AND METALLIFEROUS CHARACTER-- + REACH THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARK RANGE, WHICH IS FOUND TO + DISPLAY A BROAD REGION OF FERTILE SOIL, OVERLYING A MINERAL + DEPOSIT. + + +My stay, which I regarded in the light of a pilgrimage, at the hunters' +cabins, was now drawing to a close. I had originally reached their camps +after a fatiguing and devious march through some of the most sterile and +rough passages of the Ozarks, guided only by a pocket compass, and had +thrown myself on their friendship and hospitality to further my +progress. Without their friendly guidance, it was felt that no higher +point in this elevation could be reached. Every objection raised by them +had now been surmounted. I had waited their preliminary journey for corn +for their families, and my companion and myself had made ourselves +useful by helping, in the mean time, to complete their cabins and +improvements. While thus engaged, I had become tolerably familiar with +their character, physical and moral, and may add something more +respecting them. Holt, as I have before indicated, was a pure hunter, +expert with the rifle, and capable of the periodical exertion and +activity which hunting requires, but prone to take his ease when there +was meat in the cabin, and averse to all work beside. He was of an easy, +good-natured temper, and would submit to a great deal of inconvenience +and want, before he would rouse himself. But when out in the woods, or +on the prairies, he was quite at home. He knew the habits and range of +animals, their time for being out of their coverts, the kind of food +they sought, and the places where it was likely to be found. He had a +quick eye and a sure aim, and quadruped or bird that escaped him, must +be nimble. He was about five feet eight inches in height, stout and full +faced, and was particular in his gear and dress, but in nothing so much +as the skin wrapper that secured his rifle-lock. This was always in +perfect order. + +Fisher was two or three inches taller, more slender, lank of features, +and sterner. He was a great believer in the bewitching of guns, seemed +often to want a good place to fire from, had more deliberation in what +he did, and was not so successful a sportsman. He had, too, when in the +cabin, more notions of comfort, built a larger dwelling, worked more on +it, and had some desires for cultivation. When on the prairie, he +dismounted from his horse with some deliberation; but, before he was +well on terra firma, Holt had slid off and killed his game. The shots of +both were true, and, between them, we ran no danger of wanting a meal. + +It was the twenty-eighth day of December before every objection to their +guiding us was obviated, and, although neither of them had been relieved +from the fear of Osage hostility, they mounted their horses in the +morning, and announced themselves ready to proceed. Our course now lay +toward the north-west, and the weather was still mild and favorable. We +ascended through the heavily-timbered bottom-lands of the valley for a +mile or two, and then passed by an easy route through the valley cliffs, +to the prairie uplands north of them. After getting fairly out of the +gorge we had followed, we entered on a rolling highland prairie, with +some clumps of small forest trees, and covered, as far as the eye could +reach, with coarse wild grass, and the seed-pods of autumnal flowers, +nodding in the breeze. It was a waving surface. Sometimes the elevations +assumed a conical shape. Sometimes we crossed a depression with trees. +Often the deer bounded before us, and frequently the sharp crack of the +rifle was the first intimation to me that game was near. Holt told me +that the error of the young or inexperienced hunters was in looking too +far for their game. The plan to hunt successfully was, to raise the eye +slowly from the spot just before you, for the game is often close by, +and not to set it on distant objects at first. We moved on leisurely, +with eyes and ears alert for every sight and sound. A bird, a quadruped, +a track--these were important themes. + +When night approached, we encamped near the foot of an eminence, called, +from its appearance, the Bald Hill. An incident occurred early in our +march, which gave us no little concern. A fine young horse of one of the +neighboring hunters, which had been turned out to range, followed our +track from White river valley, and, notwithstanding all the efforts of +our guides, could not be driven back. At length they fired the dry +prairie-grass behind us, the wind serving, deeming this the most +effectual way of driving him back. The expedient did not, however, prove +eventually successful; for, after a while, the animal again made his +appearance. We lost some time in these efforts. It was thought better, +at length, that I should ride him, which was accomplished by placing a +deerskin upon his back by way of saddle, with a kind of bridle, &c. The +animal was spirited, and, thus mounted, I kept up with the foremost. + +We travelled to-day about ten miles. The day was clear, but chilly, with +a north-westerly wind, which we had to face. Holt had killed a young doe +during the day, which was quickly skinned, and he took along the choice +parts of it for our evening's repast. Part of the carcase was left +behind as wolf's-meat. + + +Dec. 29th. Little change appeared in the country. For about six miles we +travelled over hill and dale, meeting nothing new, but constantly +expecting something. We then descended into the valley of Swan creek--a +clear stream of thirty yards wide, a tributary of White river. Its banks +present a rich alluvial bottom, well wooded with maple, hickory, ash, +hag-berry, elm, and sycamore. We followed up this valley about five +miles, when it commenced raining, and we were compelled to encamp. +Protection from the rain, however, was impossible. We gained some little +shelter under the broad roots of a clump of fallen trees and limbs, and +passed a most comfortless night, being wet, and without a fire. + +The next morning, (Dec. 30th,) at the earliest dawn, we were in motion. +After ascending the Swan creek valley about nine miles, through a most +fertile tract, we fell into the Osage trail, a well-beaten horse-path, +and passed successively three of their deserted camps, which had +apparently been unoccupied for a month or more. The poles and frames of +each lodge were left standing, and made a most formidable show. The +paths, hacked trees, and old stumps of firebrands, showed that they had +been deserted in the fall. The fear of this tribe now appeared to have +left the minds of our guides. These encampments were all very large, and +could probably each have accommodated several hundred persons. + +The form of the Osage lodge may be compared to a hemisphere, or an +inverted bird's-nest, with a small aperture left in the top for the +escape of smoke, and an elongated opening at the side, by way of door, +to pass and repass. It is constructed by cutting a number of flexible +green poles, sharpened at one end, and stuck firmly in the ground. The +corresponding tops are then bent over and tied, and the framework +covered with linden bark. These wigwams are arranged in circles, one +line of lodges within another. In the centre is a scaffolding for meat. +The chief's tent is conspicuously situated at the head of each +encampment. It is different from the rest, resembling an inverted half +cylinder. The whole is arranged with much order and neatness, and +evinces that they move in large parties, that the chiefs exercise a good +deal of authority. + +The Osages are a tribe who have from early times been prominent in the +south-west, between the Arkansas and Missouri. The term Osage is of +French origin; it seems to be a translation of the Algonquin term +Assengigun, or Bone Indians. Why? They call themselves Was-ba-shaw, and +have a curious allegory of their having originated from a beaver and a +snail. They are divided into two bands, the Little and Great Osages, the +latter of whom make their permanent encampments on the river Osage of +the Missouri. The Ozarks appear from early days to have been their +hunting-grounds for the valuable furred animals, and its deep glens and +gorges have served as nurseries for the bear. They are one of the great +prairie stock of tribes, who call God Wacondah. They are physically a +fine tribe of men, of good stature and courage, but have had the +reputation, among white and red men, of being thieves and plunderers. +Certainly, among the hunter population of this quarter, they are +regarded as little short of ogres and giants; and they tell most +extravagant tales of their doings. Luckily, it was so late in the season +that we were not likely to encounter many of them. + +In searching the precincts of the old camps, my guides pointed out a +place where the Indians had formerly pinioned down Teen Friend, one of +the most successful of the white trappers in this quarter, whom they had +found trapping their beaver in the Swan creek valley. I thought it was +an evidence of some restraining fear of our authorities at St. Louis, +that they had not taken the enterprising old fellow's scalp, as well as +his beaver packs. + +Life in the wilderness is dependent on contingencies, which are equally +hard to be foreseen or controlled. We are, at all events, clearly out of +the jurisdiction of a justice of the peace. And the maxim that we have +carefully conned over in childhood, "No man may put off the law of God," +is but a feeble reliance when urged against the Osages or Pawnees. + +Deeming themselves now high enough up the Swan creek valley, my guides +determined to leave it, and turned their horses' heads up a gorge that +led to the open plains. We now steered our course north-west, over an +elevated plain, or prairie, covered, as usual, with ripe grass. We +followed across this tract for about twenty miles, with no general +deviation of our course, but without finding water. In search of this, +we pushed on vigorously till night set in, when it became intensely +dark, and we were in danger of being precipitated, at every step, into +some hole, or down some precipice. Darkness, in a prairie, places the +traveller in the position of a ship at sea, without a compass; to go on, +or to stop, seems equally perilous. For some two hours we groped our +way in this manner, when one of the guides shouted that he had found a +standing pool. Meantime, it had become excessively dark. The atmosphere +was clouded over, and threatened rain. On reaching the pool, there was +no wood to be found, and we were compelled to encamp without a fire, and +laid down supperless, tired, and cold. + +My guides were hardy, rough fellows, and did not mind these omissions of +meals for a day together, and had often, as now, slept without +camp-fires at night. As the object seemed to be a trial of endurance, I +resolved not to compromit myself by appearing a whit less hardy than +they did, and uttered not a word that might even shadow forth complaint. +This was, however, a cold and cheerless spot at best, with the wide +prairie for a pillow, and black clouds, dropping rain, for a covering. + +The next morning, as soon as it was at all light, we followed down the +dry gorge in which we had lain, to Findley's Fork--a rich and +well-timbered valley, which we descended about five miles. As we rode +along through an open forest, soon after entering this valley, we +observed the traces of the work of the beaver, and stopped to view a +stately tree, of the walnut species, which had been partially gnawed off +by these animals. This tree was probably eighteen or twenty inches in +diameter, and fifty feet high. The animals had gnawed a ring around it, +but abandoned their work. It had afterwards been undermined by the +freshets of the stream, and had fallen. Was it too hard a work? If so, +it would seem that some instinct akin to reason came to their aid, in +leading them to give up their essay. + +There was now every appearance of a change of weather. It was cold, and +a wintry breeze chilled our limbs. I thought my blood was as warm as +that of my guides, however, and rode on cheerfully. At length, Holt and +Fisher, of their own motion, stopped to kindle a fire, and take +breakfast. We had still plenty of fresh venison, which we roasted, as +each liked, on spits. Thus warmed and refreshed, we continued down the +valley, evidently in a better philosophical mood; for a man always +reasons better, and looks more beneficently about him, this side of +starvation. + +I observed a small stream of pure water coming in on the north, side, +which issued through an opening in the hills; and as this ran in the +general direction we were pursuing, the guides led up it. We were soon +enclosed in a lateral valley, with high corresponding hills, as if, in +remote ages, they had been united. Very soon it became evident that this +defile was closed across and in front of us. As we came near this +barrier, it was found that it blocked up the whole valley, with the +exception of the mouth of a gigantic cave. The great width and height of +this cave, and its precipitous face, gave it very much the appearance of +some ruinous arch, out of proportion. It stretched from hill to hill. +The limpid brook we had been following, ran from its mouth. On entering +it, the first feeling was that of being in "a large place." There was no +measure for the eye to compute height or width. We seemed suddenly to be +beholding some secret of the great works of nature, which had been hid +from the foundation of the world. The impulse, on these occasions, is to +shout. I called it Winoca.[9] On advancing, we beheld an immense natural +vase, filled with pure water. This vase was formed from concretions of +carbonate of lime, of the nature of stalagmite, or, rather, stalactite. +It was greyish-white and translucent, filling the entire breadth of the +cave. But, what was still more imposing, another vase, of similar +construction, was formed on the next ascending plateau of the floor of +the cave. The water flowed over the lips of this vase into the one +below. The calcareous deposit seems to have commenced at the surface of +the water, which, continually flowing over the rims of each vase, +increases the deposit. + +The height of the lower vase is about five feet, which is inferable by +our standing by it, and looking over the rim into the limpid basin. The +rim is about two and a half inches thick. Etruscan artists could not +have formed a more singular set of capacious vases. + +The stream of water that supplies these curious tanks, rushes with +velocity from the upper part of the cavern. The bottom of the cave is +strewed with small and round calcareous concretions, about the size of +ounce balls, of the same nature with the vases. They are in the +condition of stalagmites. These concretions are opaque, and appear to +have been formed from the impregnated waters percolating from the roof +of the cavern. There are evidences of nitric salts in small crevices. +Geologically, the cavern is in the horizontal limestone, which is +evidently metalliferous. It is the same calcareous formation which +characterizes the whole Ozark range. Ores of lead (the sulphurets) were +found in the stratum in the bed of a stream, at no great distance north +of this cave; and its exploration for its mineral wealth is believed to +be an object of practical importance. + +I had now followed the geological formation of the country far +south-westwardly. The relative position of the calcareous, lead-bearing +stratum, had everywhere been the same, when not disturbed or displaced. +Wide areas on the sources of the Maramec, Gasconade, and Osage, and also +of the Currents, Spring river, and Eleven-points and Strawberry, were +found covered by heavy drift, which concealed the rock; but wherever +valleys had been cut through the formation by the stream, and the strata +laid bare, they disclosed the same horizontality of deposit, and the +same relative position of limestone and sandstone rock. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[9] From the Osage word for an underground spirit. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + DEPART FROM THE CAVE--CHARACTER OF THE HUNTERS WHO GUIDED THE + AUTHOR--INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE--A BEAUTIFUL AND FERTILE + COUNTRY, ABOUNDING IN GAME--REACH THE EXTREME NORTH-WESTERN + SOURCE OF WHITE RIVER--DISCOVERIES OF LEAD-ORE IN A PART OF + ITS BED--ENCAMP AND INVESTIGATE ITS MINERALOGY--CHARACTER, + VALUE, AND HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY--PROBABILITY OF ITS + HAVING BEEN TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO IN 1541. + + +It was the last day of the year 1818, when we reached the cave of +Winoca, as described in the preceding chapter, on the Ozark summit. An +inspection of the country had shown the fact that the mineral +developments of its underlying rocks were of a valuable character, while +the surface assumed the most pleasing aspect, and the soil, wherever +examined, appeared to be of the very richest quality. The bold, rough +hunters, who accompanied me, thought of the country only as an +attractive game country, which it was a great pity, they said, that the +Indians alone should occupy; and they had very little curiosity about +anything that did not minister to their immediate wants. They had lived +for so long a time by the rifle, that they had a philosophy of the +rifle. It was the ready arbiter between themselves, and the animal +creation, and the Indians, and even other hunters. Neither the striking +agricultural or mineral resources of the country, arrested much +attention on their part. And as soon as I was ready to relinquish my +examinations at the cave and proceed, they were ready to resume their +horses and lead forward. Unfortunately, it was now severely cold, and +everything in the heavens prognosticated its increasing severity. + +On leaving the Valley of the Cave, and ascending the hills that +environed it, we passed over a gently sloping surface of hill and vale, +partly covered with forest trees, and partly in prairies. I have seldom +seen a more beautiful prospect. The various species of oaks and +hickories had strewed the woods with their fruits, on which the bear and +wild turkey revelled, while the red deer was scarcely ever out of sight. +Long before the hour of encampment had arrived, the hunters had secured +the means of our making a sumptuous evening meal on wild viands; and +when, at an early hour, we pitched our camp on the borders of a small +brook, Holt, who was ever ready with the rifle, added a fat brant from +this brook to our stores. We had not travelled more than twelve miles, +but we had a sharp wind to face, the day being severe; and nothing was +so agreeable, when we halted, as the fire, around which we enjoyed +ourselves, as we each displayed our skill in forest cookery. There was +cutting, and carving, and roasting, in the true prairie style. We then +prepared our couches and night-fires, and slept. At the earliest peep of +light, we were again in motion. + +The 1st of January, 1819, opened with a degree of cold unusual in these +regions. Their elevation is, indeed, considerable; but the wind swept +with a cutting force across the open prairies. We were now on the +principal north-western source of White river, the channel of which we +forded in the distance of two miles. The western banks presented a naked +prairie, covered with dry grass and autumnal weeds, with here and there +a tree. We pushed on towards the north-east. The prairie-hen, +notwithstanding the cold, rose up in flocks before us, as we intruded +upon their low-couched positions in the grass. Of these, Holt, whose +hunting propensities no cold could restrain, obtained a specimen; he +also fired at and killed a wild goose from the channel of the river. On +passing about four miles up the western banks of the stream, we observed +a lead of lead-ore, glittering through the water in the bed of the +river, and determined to encamp at this spot, for the purpose of +investigating the mineral appearances. The weather was piercingly cold. +We found some old Indian camps near at hand, and procured from them +pieces of bark to sheath a few poles and stakes, hastily put up, to form +a shelter from the wind. A fire was soon kindled, and, while we cooked +and partook of a forest breakfast, we recounted the incidents of the +morning, not omitting the untoward state of the weather. When the labor +of building the shanty was completed, I hastened to explore the +geological indications of the vicinity. + +The ore which had attracted our notice in the bed of the stream, existed +in lumps, which presented bright surfaces where the force of the current +had impelled its loose stony materials over them. It was a pure +sulphuret of lead, breaking in cubical lines. I also observed some +pieces of hornblende. It was not easy to determine the original width of +the bed of ore. Its course is across the stream, into the banks of red +marly clay on which we had encamped. Its geological position is in every +respect similar to the metalliferous deposits at Potosi, except that +there were no spars, calcareous or barytic, in sight. I gathered, in a +few minutes, a sufficient number of specimens of the ore for +examination, and employed myself in erecting, on the banks of the river, +a small furnace, of the kind called "log-furnace" in Missouri, to test +its fusibility. In the mean time, my New England companion took a survey +of the surrounding country, which he pronounced one of the most fertile, +and admirably adapted to every purpose of agriculture. Much of the land +consists of prairie, into which the plough can be immediately put. The +forests and groves, which are interspersed with a park-like beauty +through these prairies, consist of various species of oaks, maple, white +and black walnut, elm, mulberry, hackberry, and sycamore. + +Holt and Fisher scanned the country for game, and returned to camp with +six turkeys and a wolf. Their fear of the Osages had been only +apparently subdued. They had been constantly on the look-out for signs +of Indian enemies, and had their minds always filled with notions of +hovering Osages and Pawnees. The day was wintry, and the weather +variable. It commenced snowing at daylight, and continued till about +eight o'clock, A. M. It then became clear, and remained so, with +occasional flickerings, until two o'clock, when a fixed snowstorm sat +in, and drove me from my little unfinished furnace, bringing in the +hunters also from the prairies, and confining us strictly to our camp. +This storm continued, without mitigation, nearly all night. + + +Jan. 3d. The snow ceased before sunrise, leaving the country wrapped in +a white mantle. The morning was cold; the river began to freeze about +nine o'clock, and continued till it was closed. The weather afforded an +opportunity for continuing the explorations and examinations commenced +yesterday. I found that the red clay afforded a good material for laying +the stones of my lead-furnace, and continued working at it for a part of +the day. The hunters came in with the carcases of two deer, and the skin +of a black wolf. Except in its color, I could not distinguish any +permanent characteristics in the latter differing from the large grey +wolf, or coyote. Its claws, snout, and ears, were the same--its tail, +perhaps, a little more bushy. The size of this animal, judging from the +skin, must have been double that of the little prairie-wolf, or +_myeengun_ of the Indians of the North. + +I found the bed of the stream, where it permitted examination, to be +non-crystalline limestone, in horizontal beds, corresponding to the +formation observed in the cave of Winoca. Its mineral constituents were +much the same. The country is one that must be valuable hereafter for +its fertility and resources. The prairies which extend west of the river +are the most extensive, rich, and beautiful, of any which I have yet +seen west of the Mississippi. They are covered with a most vigorous +growth of grass. The deer and elk abound in this quarter, and the +buffalo is yet occasionally seen. The soil in the river valley is a rich +black alluvion. The trees are often of an immense height, denoting +strength of soil. It will probably be found adapted to corn, flax, hemp, +wheat, oats, and potatoes; while its mining resources must come in as +one of the elements of its future prosperity. + +I planted some peach-stones in a fertile spot near our camp, where the +growth of the sumac denoted unusual fertility. And it is worthy of +remark that even Holt, who had the antipathy of an Indian to +agriculture, actually cut some bushes in a certain spot, near a spring, +and piled them into a heap, by way of securing a pre-emption right to +the soil. + +The region of the Ozark range of mountain development is one of singular +features, and no small attractions. It exhibits a vast and elevated +tract of horizontal and sedimentary strata, extending for hundreds of +miles north and south. This range is broken up into high cliffs, often +wonderful to behold, which form the enclosing walls of river valleys. +The Arkansas itself forces its way through, about the centre of the +range. The Washita marks its southern boundary. The St. Francis and the +Maramec, at the mouth of the former of which De Soto landed, constitute +its northern limits. The junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi +may be said to be its extreme northern development. The Missouri, from +the influx of the Osage, is pushed northward by the Ozark range. It +rests, on the south, upon the primitive granites, slates, and quartz +rock, of Washita. The celebrated Hot Springs issue from it. The +long-noted mines of Missouri, which once set opinion in France in a +blaze, extend from its north-eastern flanks. The primitive sienites and +hornblende rock of the sources of the St. Francis and Grand rivers, +support it. The Unica or White river, the Strawberry, Spring river, +Currents and Black rivers, descend from it, and join the Mississippi. +The Great and Little Osage, and the Gasconade, flow into the Missouri. +The great plains, and sand-desert, which stretches at the eastern foot +of the Rocky mountains, lie west of it. It is not less than two hundred +miles in breadth. No part of the central regions of the Mississippi +valley exhibits such a variety in its geological constituents, or such a +striking mineralogical development. Its bodies of the ore of iron called +iron-glance, are unparalleled. These are particularly developed in the +locality called Iron Mountain, or the sources of the St. Francis. Its +ores of lead, zinc, antimony, and manganese, are remarkable. Its +limestones abound in caves yielding nitre. Salt and gypsum are found in +the plains on its western borders. Its large blocks of quartz rock, +which are found north of the Arkansas river, particularly scattered over +the formations crossing the Little Red, Buffalo, and White rivers, +about the Buffalo shoals, furnish indications of the diluvial gold +deposit, which would justify future examination. + +Through these alpine ranges De Soto roved, with his chivalrous and +untiring army, making an outward and inward expedition into regions +which must have presented unwonted hardships and discouragements to the +march of troops. To add to these natural obstacles, he found himself +opposed by fierce savage tribes, who rushed upon him from every glen and +defile, and met him in the open grounds with the most savage energy. His +own health finally sank under these fatigues; and it is certain that, +after his death, his successor in the command, Moscoso, once more +marched entirely through the southern Ozarks, and reached the buffalo +plains beyond them. Such energy and feats of daring had never before +been displayed in North America; and the wonder is at its highest, after +beholding the wild and rough mountains, cliffs, glens, and torrents, +over which the actual marches must have laid. + +Some of the names of the Indian tribes encountered by him, furnish +conclusive evidence that the principal tribes of the country, although +they have changed their particular locations since the year 1542, still +occupy the region. Thus, the Kapahas, who then lived on the Mississippi, +above the St. Francis, are identical with the Quappas, the Cayas with +the Kanzas, and the Quipana with the Pawnees. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + SEVERE WINTER WEATHER ON THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARKS--FALSE + ALARM OF INDIANS--DANGER OF MY FURNACE, ETC., BEING + HEREAFTER TAKEN FOR ANTIQUITIES--PROCEED SOUTH--ANIMAL + TRACKS IN THE SNOW--WINOCA OR SPIRIT VALLEY--HONEY AND THE + HONEY-BEE--BUFFALO-BULL CREEK--ROBE OF SNOW--MEHAUSCA + VALLEY--SUPERSTITIOUS EXPERIMENT OF THE HUNTERS--ARRIVE AT + BEAVER CREEK. + + +The indications of severe weather, noticed during the last day of +December, and the beginning of January, were not deceptive; every day +served to realize them. We had no thermometer; but our feelings denoted +an intense degree of cold. The winds were fierce and sharp, and snow +fell during a part of each day and night that we remained on these +elevations. We wrapped our garments closely about us at night, in front +of large fires, and ran alternately the risk of being frozen and burnt. +One night my overcoat was in a blaze from lying too near the fire. This +severity served to increase the labor of our examinations; but it did +not, that I am aware, prevent anything essential. + +On the fourth day of my sojourn here, a snowstorm began, a little before +one o'clock in the morning; it ceased, or, as the local phrase is, "held +up," at daybreak. The ground was now covered, to a depth of from two to +three inches, with a white mantle. Such severity had never been known by +the hunters. The winds whistled over the bleak prairies with a rigor +which would have been remarkable in high northern latitudes. The river +froze entirely over. The sun, however, shone out clearly as the day +advanced, and enabled me to complete my examinations, as fully as it +was practicable to do, under the existing state of the weather. + +It happened, on this day, that my companion had walked a mile or two +west, over the smooth prairie, to get a better view of the conformation +of the land, returning to camp before the hunters, who had also gone in +the same general direction. On their coming back, one of them, whose +head was always full of hostile Osages, fell on his returning track in +the snow, and carefully traced it to our camp. He came in breathless, +and declared that the Osages were upon us, and that not a moment was to +be lost in breaking up our camp, and flying to a place of security. When +informed of the origin of the tracks, he still seemed incredulous, and +could not be pacified without some difficulty. We then prepared, by +collecting fuel, and increasing our bark defences against the wind and +snow, to pass another night at the camp. + +I had now followed the Ozarks as far as it seemed practicable, and +reached their western summit, notwithstanding every discouragement +thrown in my way by the reports of the hunters, from the first moment of +my striking the White river; having visited the source of nearly every +river which flows from it, both into the Missouri and the Mississippi. I +had fully satisfied myself of its physical character and resources, and +now determined to return to the camps of my guides at Beaver creek, and +continue the exploration south. + +It was the 5th of January, 1819, when we prepared our last meal at that +camp, and I carefully put up my packages in such portable shape as might +be necessary. Some time was spent in looking up the horses, which had +been turned into a neighboring canebrake. The interval was employed in +cutting our names, with the date of our visit, on a contiguous oak, +which had been previously blazed for the purpose. These evidences of our +visit were left, with the pit dug in search of ore, and the small +smelting-furnace, which, it is hoped, no zealous antiquarian will +hereafter mistake for monuments of an elder period of civilization in +the Mississippi valley. When this was accomplished, and the horses +brought up, we set out with alacrity. The snow still formed a thin +covering on the ground, and, being a little softened by the sun, the +whole surface of the country exhibited a singular map of the tracks of +quadrupeds and birds. In these, deer, elk, bears, wolves, and turkeys, +were prominent--the first and last species, conspicuously so. In some +places, the dry spots on the leaves showed where the deer had lain +during the storm. These resting-spots were uniformly on declivities, +which sheltered the animal from the force of the wind. Frequently we +crossed wolf-trails in the snow, and, in one or two instances, observed +places where they had played or fought with each other, like a pack of +dogs--the snow being tramped down in a circle of great extent. We also +passed tracts of many acres, where the turkeys had scratched up the +snow, in search of acorns. We frequently saw the deer fly before us, in +droves of twenty or thirty. They will bound twenty feet at a leap, as +measured, on a gentle declivity. This animal is impelled by a fatal +curiosity to stop and turn round to look at the cause of its +disturbance, after running a distance. It is at this moment that the +hunter generally fires. + +About noon, we reached and crossed Findley's Fork, or the Winoca +valley--the locality of the cave. Two miles south of it, in ascending an +elevation, our ears were saluted by a murmuring sound in the air, which +the hunters declared to be single bees, flying in a line. I observed one +of them directing its flight to the top of a large oak, which was thus +indicated as the repository of their honey. My companion and myself +proceeded to chop it down, while the hunters stood by. It was of the +white-oak species, and was judged to be two feet and a half across. When +it fell, a hollow limb was fractured, disclosing a large deposit of most +beautiful white honeycombs. We ate without stint, sometimes dipping +cooked pieces of venison (we had no bread) in the fluid part. The +remainder was then wrapped up in a freshly flayed deerskin, and firmly +tied, to be carried to the hunters' cabins at Beaver creek on one of the +horses. + +We now resumed our route. As evening approached, we entered the head of +a valley formed out of the plain, toward our right. It turned out to be +a stream known to them, in their buffalo hunts, as Bull creek. Here we +encamped, having travelled about twenty miles. The weather continued +moderately cold during the day, the sun not having attained sufficient +power to melt the snow. A single deer was the trophy of this day's hunt. + +Morning found us, as we arose from our couches, in a small, brushy, and +tangled valley, through which it was not easy to make our way. The +weather was raw, cold, and lowering, and the hunters did not seem +inclined to make an early start. It was determined to replenish our +fire, and breakfast, first. It was a rough region, and cost some +exertion and fatigue to get out of its tangled defiles, and ascend the +plains south of it. These impediments consumed so much time, that we +made but slow progress. The atmosphere was so obscure, that it was +difficult to determine the proper course; and it was evident that the +guides did not know exactly where they were. At length they entered one +of the lateral valleys of Swan creek, the Mehausca of the Osages. In +this, after following it down some distance, we encamped. The atmosphere +was clouded up, and betokened falling weather. + +The next morning, (Jan. 7th), when I awoke, I felt an extra pressure of +something on my blanket, which had the effect to keep off the wind, and +produce warmth; and on opening its folds, I threw off a stratum of an +inch or two of snow. We had been fatigued by the day's march, and slept +soundly. + +Some eight miles' travel brought us to the junction of this little +tributary with the Mehausca, where our guides, by recognizing known +objects, reassured themselves of their true position. It was, however, +still hazy and obscure, and doubts soon again arose in their minds as to +the proper course. After travelling some miles in this perplexity, they +were at length relieved by observing a known landmark in the peak of +Bald hill. This mark was, however, soon lost sight of, and, the +atmosphere still continuing overclouded, dark, and hazy, they speedily +became again bewildered. I was surprised at this; it denoted a want of +precision of observation, which an Indian certainly could not have been +charged with. He is able, in the worst weather, to distinguish the +_north_ from the _south_ face of a mature and weathered tree--a species +of knowledge, of the utmost consequence to him in his forest wanderings. + +An experiment, of letting a certain horse take his course homeward, by +throwing the reins upon his neck, was adopted by our guides; but after +trying it for some time, it was found necessary to give it up. It was +clear that the animal was going directly from home; and Fisher, who +believed in bewitched guns, was obliged to yield the point. Not long +after resuming the reins, Holt announced, in the dense atmosphere which +enveloped us, that we were ascending the valley hills that border the +main channel of White river. As soon as this was verified, and we had +reached the highest point, the guides both fired their rifles, to +advertise their families, on the bottom-lands below, of their approach; +and we were soon welcomed, at the hunters' cabins at the mouth of Beaver +creek, "by dogs, women, and children, all greasy and glad." + +During this trip, I had listened to frequent recitals of the details of +hunting the bear, beaver, deer, and other animals, the quality of dogs, +the secret of baits, &c.--a species of forest lectures, the details of +which, at the moment, were new to me, and had the charm of novelty, and +the merit of information; but which it is unimportant, at this length of +time, to repeat.[10] + +FOOTNOTE: + +[10] Vide Journal of a Tour into the Interior of Missouri and Arkansas. +London, 1821. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + DESCEND WHITE RIVER IN A CANOE--ITS PURE WATER, CHARACTER, + AND SCENERY--PLACES OF STOPPING--BEAR CREEK--SUGAR-LOAF + PRAIRIE--BIG CREEK--A RIVER PEDLAR--POT SHOALS--MOUTH OF + LITTLE NORTH FORK--DESCEND FORMIDABLE RAPIDS, CALLED THE + BULL SHOALS--STRANDED ON ROCKS--A PATRIARCH PIONEER-- + MINERALOGY--ANTIQUE POTTERY AND BONES--SOME TRACE OF DE + SOTO--A TRIP BY LAND--REACH THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH + FORK. + + +I determined to descend the river from the hunters' cabins at Beaver +creek, being the highest location to which a pioneer hunting population +had pushed, and with this view purchased a large and new canoe, of about +twenty feet in length, from the enterprising hunters. Putting into this +such articles from our former packs as were deemed necessary, and some +provisions, I took the bow, with a long and smooth pole to guide it in +rapids and shoals, and gave the stern to my companion, with a +steering-paddle. It was now the 9th of January. Bidding adieu to our +rough, but kind and friendly guides, we pushed into the stream, and +found ourselves floating, with little exertion, at the rate of from +three to four miles per hour. The very change from traversing weary +plains and prairies, and ascending steep cliffs, was exhilarating and +delightful. + +White river is one of the most beautiful and enchanting streams, and by +far the most transparent, which discharge their waters into the +Mississippi. To a width and depth which entitle it to be classed as a +river of the third magnitude in Western America, it unites a current +which possesses the purity of crystal, with a smooth and gentle flow, +and the most imposing, diversified, and delightful scenery. Objects can +be clearly seen in it, through the water, at the greatest depths. Every +pebble, rock, fish, or shell, even the minutest body which occupies the +bottom of the stream, is seen with the most perfect distinctness; and +the canoe, when looking under it, seemed, from the remarkable +transparency of the water, to be suspended in air. The Indians, +observing this peculiarity, called it Unica, which is the transitive +form of _white_. The French of Louisiana merely translated this term to +_la riviere au Blanc_. It is, in fact, composed of tributaries which +gush up in large crystal springs out of the Ozark range of mountains, +and it does not receive a discoloured tributary in all its upper course. +These gigantic springs, which are themselves a curiosity, originate in +the calcareous or sandstone strata of that remarkable chain, and are +overlaid by a heavy oceanic deposit of limestone, quartz, hornstone, and +chert pebbles, which serve as a filtering-bed to the upspringing waters. +Sometimes these pebbles are found to be jasper, of a beautiful quality. + +The scenery of its shores is also peculiar. Most frequently the +limestone, which has been subjected to the destructive power of the +elements, is worn into pinnacles of curious spiral shapes. Where the +river washes the base of these formations, a high and precipitous wall +of rock casts its shadow over the water. On the shores opposite to such +precipices, there is invariably a rich diluvial plain, covered by a +vigorous forest of trees, clothed in all the graceful luxuriance of a +summer foliage. + +If the shores be examined to any distance inland, the calcareous rock is +found to exhibit frequent caverns, where the percolation of the waters +has produced stalactites of beautiful forms, or the concretions are +spread upon the floors of these caves in curious masses. + +Often, upon the shores, we observed the graceful doe. At early hours in +the morning, the wild turkeys appeared in large flocks, with their +plumage glistening in the light. The duck, goose, and brant, often rose +up before us, and lighted in the stream again below us; and we thus +drove them, without intending it, for miles. Sometimes, perched on some +high pinnacle or towering tree, the eagle, hawk, or heron, surveyed our +descent, as if it were an intrusion upon their long undisturbed domain. + +A few miles below our point of embarkation, we passed, on the left +shore, a precipitous wall of calcareous rock, on the summit of which I +observed the location of the cavern, into the mouth of which I descended +some twenty or thirty feet, on my outward journey; and it now seemed +probable that the ramifications which I saw by the dim light admitted, +were of an extensive character. + +As the shades of night overtook us, a hunter's cabin was descried on the +left shore, where a landing was made. It proved to be occupied by a +person of the name of Yochem, who readily gave us permission to remain +for the night. He told us we had descended thirty miles. He regaled us +hospitably with wild viands, and, among other meats, the beaver's +tail--a dish for epicures. + +Resuming the descent at an early hour, a couple of miles brought us to +the inlet of Bear creek--a stream coming in on the right side, which is +described as long, narrow, and crooked. Nothing denoted that man had +ever made his residence along this part of the stream. We floated on +charmingly. At every turn, some novel combination of scenery presented +itself. As evening drew near, a hunter's cabin appeared on our right, +and, a couple of miles further, another on our left, near one of those +natural monuments of denudation common to the limestone of this river, +which is called the Sugar-loaf. We stopped for the night at this +habitation, and found it to be occupied by a Mr. Coker. The old man +received us with the usual frank and friendly air and manner of a +hunter. More than fifty years must have marked his frontier pilgrimage +on its constantly shifting boundary. He stood some six feet three in +height, was erect and thin, and looked like one of the patriarchs of the +woods, who, cherishing his personal independence and his rifle, had ever +relied upon his own arm for a support, and distrusted nothing on earth +half so much as Indians. In his view, the Osages were the perfection of +robbers; and he congratulated us on getting out of their country with +our scalps safely on our heads, and our "plunder" (a common word here +for baggage) untouched. It appeared from his estimates that we had +descended the river twenty-five miles. + +Rain fell copiously during the night; but it ceased before daylight +(11th), by the earliest gleams of which we were again in motion, +descending the pellucid river. At the computed distance of sixteen +miles, we passed the mouth of Big river, a considerable stream on the +left banks, where I halted a few moments to see a new location which had +just been commenced. A small clearing had been made in the dense +canebrake, and a log house commenced. Shortly below this spot, we +encountered a river pedlar, ascending the stream with his commodities in +a canoe. On conversing with him, I found his knowledge of affairs very +local and partial. Of the outer world, and of its news, he knew nothing. + +At every stage of our progress, the river was increasing in its volume; +and, soon after this occurrence, we observed its velocity accelerated, +and almost imperceptibly found ourselves gliding rapidly over the Pot +Shoals. This rapid appeared less formidable than had been anticipated. I +rose up to observe the draught of the current, and, by a few strokes of +the pole, kept the canoe in the force of the stream. About seven miles +below these shoals, and just as evening closed in, a house appeared on +the left shore. It proved to be M'Garey's, at whose domicile we had +originally struck on crossing the wilderness from Potosi. He was glad to +hail our return from a region, against the Indian occupants of which, he +had decidedly warned us on our outward trip, but from whom we had +fortunately received no injury. He informed us that we had this day +descended the river forty miles, that being the received distance to +Sugar-loaf Prairie. + +We were indeed cordially received as old acquaintances, and +congratulated on our perseverance in visiting a region where Indian +hostility was so much to be dreaded. On learning that the Osages had +retired west, and that the country abounded in game, one of the sons of +our host prepared to push into that region. M'Garey told us that he had +delivered "Butcher," agreeably to our order, to Holt; but the latter, on +travelling a day's journey toward Beaver creek, had found him too feeble +to proceed, and, after taking off his shoes, had abandoned him to the +wolves. Sad emblem of the fate of persons who have served great men, +till they have reached some pinnacle where the service is forgotten, +because no longer necessary! + +Nearly opposite, but a little below this cabin, we passed, on the 12th, +the mouth of the Little North Fork; a stream originating in a broken +region on the left bank, and having some alluvions at its mouth. +Evidences of habitation became more frequent below the Little North +Fork, which caused me to cease noting their succession in my journal. + +Nothing of special interest occurred to mark the day's progress, till we +reached, at an advanced hour in the afternoon, the Bull shoals. At this +formidable rapid, the river probably sinks its level fifteen or twenty +feet in the space of half a mile. Masses of limestone rock stand up in +the bed of the river, and create several channels. Between these the +river foams and roars. When I arose in the canoe to take a view of the +rapid into which we were about to plunge, the bed of the stream appeared +to be a perfect sheet of foam, whirling and rushing with great force and +tumult. As I knew not the proper channel, and it was too late to +withdraw, the only step left was to keep the canoe headed, and down we +went most rapidly. Very soon the canoe leaped on a round rock, driving +on it with great force, and veered about crosswise. In an instant I +jumped into the water at the bows, while my companion did the same at +the stern, and, by main force, we lifted it over the ledge, got in +quickly, and again headed it properly. We were, emphatically, in the +midst of roaring rapids; their very noise was deafening. The canoe had +probably got down six hundred yards, when a similar difficulty occurred, +at the head of a second shute or bench of rocks, reaching across the +river. In an instant, it again struck. It was obviated by getting into +the water, in the same way as on the first occasion; only, however, to +put our strength and skill to the test a third time, after which we shot +down to the foot of the rapids safely. We had managed neither to ship +water, nor to lose a piece of baggage. We were, however, thoroughly +wetted, but kept our position in the canoe for five miles below the +rapid, bringing us to the head of Friend's settlement. We landed, at a +rather early hour in the evening, at a log building on the left shore, +where we were hospitably received by Teen Friend, a man of mature age +and stately air, the patriarch of the settlement. It was of him that we +had heard stories of Osage captivity and cruelty, having visited one of +the very valleys where he was kept in "durance vile." + +The antiquities and mineral appearances in that vicinity were +represented as worthy of examination; in consequence of which, I devoted +a part of the next day (13th) to these objects. The neighboring hills +consist of stratified limestone. The surface of the soil exhibits some +fragments of hornstone and radiated quartz, with indications of +iron-ore. At the shoals, traces of galena and calcareous spar occur. + +Mr. Friend, being familiar from personal observation with the geography +and resources of the country at large, states that rock-salt is found +between the south fork of White river and the Arkansas, where the +Pawnees and Osages make use of it. It is presumed that this salt +consists of crystalline masses from the evaporation of saline water. He +represents the lead-ores on its north-western source, which we had +partially explored, as very extensive. + +If, as is probable, De Soto ranged over these regions in his extensive +marches between the St. Francis and Arkansas, his exploratory parties +may have reached the locality of crystalline salt referred to, and he +would have found the buffalo in several positions east of that place. + +The antiquarian objects to which my attention was called, afforded the +greatest degree of interest. They consisted of pieces of earthenware, +some antique fragments of bone, and a metallic alloy, resting in a +substance resembling ashes, and also arrow-heads. The metallic alloy, of +which Mr. F. gave me a specimen, resembles a combination of lead and +tin. But what adds to the interest attending the discovery of these +articles, is the fact, that they lie, apparently, below the diluvial +deposits, bearing a heavy forest, and at the geological line of +intersection with the consolidated rocks. + +From the apparent vestiges in this quarter, I am of opinion that De +Soto's "Tanico" must be located in this vicinity, and that he crossed +the White river near this place. A march west of this point, over a +hilly country, would bring him into the fertile valley of the Little Red +river, or Buffalo creek--his probable Tula, where his people first +tasted the flesh of this animal, and where he recruited his army for a +new effort. + +These inquiries occupied the morning. It was late before we embarked, +and, at some four miles below, we landed on the right shore, at a Mr. +Zadock Lee's, being the first New Englander whom we had met in this +region. With him we took dinner. He appeared pleased to see us, and +conducted me to see some antique, white, lime-like masses, in the earth, +near the bank of the river, which had the appearance of decayed bones. +Rumor speaks of some other antiquities in this quarter of the country, +in the shape of bricks, concealed by the undisturbed soil; but I saw +nothing of this kind. While here, Mr. Lee's son returned from the forest +with the flesh of the bear and buffalo, the fruits of his own prowess in +the chase, and amused us with an account of his recent exhibition of +skill in these departments. We embarked and descended the river six +miles, to a Mr. Jacob Yochem's, who received us with hospitality, and +added no little, by his conversation, to our local lore. + +It was determined, the next morning, (14th,) to loan our canoe, which +was a capacious, new, and clean vessel, made from white-ash, to our +host, to enable him to transport his hunter products to a market at the +mouth of the Great North Fork, leaving our baggage to be brought that +way. The distance by water is thirty-five miles; by land, probably not +more than eighteen or twenty. By this step, we avoided the dangers of +navigating two formidable rapids, called the Crooked Creek and Buffalo +Shoals; the former situated fifteen, and the latter twenty miles below +Yochem's. + +We left our host's at a seasonable hour in the morning, taking a good +horse-path; and we walked diligently till near dusk, before reaching our +destination. We then had the whole volume of White river between us and +our purposed place of lodgment, which was at the residence of a man +named Matney. It was the only house within a considerable distance at +which shelter for the night could be obtained; and we did not hesitate +long between the two alternatives presented to us--either of lying out +in the woods all night, or of fording the river, with the depth of which +we were not acquainted. We chose the latter, and accordingly prepared +for the attempt. At the shallowest part we could find, it was about four +feet deep in the channel; but we struggled through, and reached the +house just at nightfall, wet and chilly. We were hospitably received, +and speedily made ourselves comfortable. We had been told that the +distance was fifteen miles; but to us, who had diligently footed it, it +seemed more than twenty. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + DETENTION AT THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH FORK--NATURAL + HISTORY OF THE VICINITY--GREAT BLOCKS OF QUARTZ--IMPOSING + PRECIPICES OF THE CALICO ROCK--A CHARACTERISTIC OF AMERICAN + SCENERY--CHEROKEE OCCUPANCY OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN THE + WHITE AND ARKANSAS RIVERS--ITS EFFECTS ON THE PIONEERS-- + QUESTION OF THE FATE OF THE INDIAN RACES--IRON-ORE--DESCENT + TO THE ARKANSAS FERRIES--LEAVE THE RIVER AT THIS POINT-- + REMARKS ON ITS CHARACTER AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The canoe had not yet arrived, nor was there any tidings of it the next +morning; so that there was no alternative, in our present situation, but +to wait patiently. I determined to improve the delay by exploring the +neighborhood. It is a geographical point of some importance, being the +head of the navigation of White river for all large craft ascending from +the Mississippi. As yet, nothing but keel-boats have ascended. Between +the point of our embarkation at Beaver creek and this spot, the river +has a fall of about sixty feet, at four rapids, which do not probably +extend over a mile or two in the aggregate. The stream, during the rest +of the way, has a fine, lively current, seldom of great velocity, and +never stagnates. The Great North Fork, the scene of our former +ramblings, enters a short distance below the foot of the Buffalo Shoals, +rendering the draught of water practicable, it is believed, for +steamboats at all seasons. + +I found the pebble-stones and boulders on the margin and bed of the +river, which I leisurely examined, to afford a true representation of +the formations which had been observed in traversing the elevated and +broken surface of the Ozarks. They consist of the various limestones +and sandstones of the region, with a partial mixture of quartz rock, red +sienite, hornstone, argillaceous rock, and the peculiar, egg-shaped, +coarse yellow jasper, which appears to have been imbedded in some of its +strata. On ascending the cliffs west of the valley, they were observed +to consist of the characteristic limestone of the region, in horizontal +layers, the upper strata containing impressions of shells. Very large +angular masses of quartz rock lie near the bases of these cliffs. Some +of the angles of these masses would probably measure fourteen feet. +Their position here appears to be quite anomalous, as, from the absence +of attrition, they are clearly not of the erratic block group. They +appear to indicate a primitive formation near. + +The half hunter, half farmer, to whom we had loaned our canoe, came with +a number of his companions in the evening, and entered on a scene of +merriment, to which, as the cabin had but one room, we were compelled to +be unwilling spectators during the livelong night, though, from its +character, not participating at all therein. As soon as there was light +sufficient to discern objects (16th), we embarked, rejoiced to get clear +of this extraordinary nocturnal scene. About half a mile below, we +passed the mouth of the Great North Fork, and, some five or six miles +further, entered and descended a swift channel, called the Crooked +rapids, where there probably has been some slight geological disturbance +in the bed of the river, observable in very low stages of water. + +At the distance of ten miles more, a sudden turn of the river brought us +in full sight of the picturesque, elevated, and precipitous shore, +called the Calico Rock. This presents a most imposing façade, on which +are observable the imitative forms of fantastic architectural devices. +The wall is quite precipitous throughout. It is the calcareous rock of +the region. Its summit is overlaid with ochreous clays of various +colors, which, through the action of the elements, have imparted their +fanciful hues to portions of the cliff. This abrupt species of scenery +is quite peculiar to the American landscape. A still more imposing +section of it is presented in the Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior. +Nothing of this kind marks the banks of the Rhine, so much eulogized by +travellers; for all its formations partake of the parabolic, or curved +lines of the primitive, and the eye is relieved by these gradations; +but, in the brusque scenes of the West, the precipices are as marked as +if they had been hewn down by some gigantic broad-axe. There are some +sections, in keeping with these harsh landscapes, on the Mississippi, +along the Missouri shores--less prominently along the Illinois borders, +near Alton--and at places in Iowa and Wisconsin; but more characteristic +in Minnesota, as the river escapes from its primitive plains, and +plunges over the falls of St. Anthony. We descended about thirty miles +this day, and found lodgment, at night, at a house on the left bank, +occupied by a Mr. Jeffery. + + +The next morning (17th), on descending five miles, we stopped at a Mr. +Williams's to prepare breakfast, where some persons were gathering to +hear an itinerant preacher. Twenty miles lower, we stopped for the +night, at a widow Lafferty's. + +From the remarks made at the places where we have been entertained by +the hunters and settlers on this river, there is considerable +dissatisfaction with a treaty[11] made with the Cherokee Indians, by +which a part of that nation are assigned a location between the north +banks of the Arkansas and the south bank of White river. Many of them, +including our hostess to-night, and the M'Gareys, Lees, and Matneys +above, have lands in cultivation, with dwelling-houses, stock, and +improvements, of more or less value, on the south banks of the river; +which, as they apprehend, under the operation of this treaty, they are +to relinquish to the Cherokees. + +The truth is, the first white occupants of the frontiers, though +generally rough men, and without a title to the lands they settle on, +are the pioneers of civilization; and by thus taking their lives in +their hands, and encountering the perils of the wilderness and of Indian +hostility, they lay the government under a strong obligation to protect +them. The natural hatred of races is such, that they are everlastingly +on ill terms with the Indians, and the Indians with them. It is +difficult to say which of the two races, during this period of contact, +is most suspicious of the other. + +The Indians, also, look up to the government with strong claims for +justice and protection. The frontier, at the beginning of the sixteenth +century, was on and near the Atlantic borders, from Maine to Georgia, +and long continued east of the Alleghany mountains. It is already west +of the Mississippi river, that mighty geographical highway, which, like +a longitudinal line, stretches across seventeen degrees of latitude, +every mile of which will, ere long, be settled and cultivated by the +Anglo-American race. As the population presses first on the Indian's +hunting-grounds, and next on his cornfields, he flies before the +irresistible tide, and takes shelter at some more remote western point. +But he is hardly well seated on his new hunting-grounds--he has hardly +begun to reap his new cornfields--when the pioneers of the same race +that disturbed him before, are upon him; and again, and again he must +fly before the resistless--the uncontrollable tide of migration. It is a +providential reflux in the wave of races. It is something to be +observed, rather than to be apprehended and understood. It seems to say, +that the surface of the habitable earth was not formed for the permanent +occupancy of races who rely on the pleasing and exciting uses of the bow +and arrow; and that labor, which was, at the first, declared to be the +proper condition of man, is destined to sweep away, if it cannot merge +in its on-rush, these erratic and picturesque tribes. Where their +frontiers will be found, a hundred years hence, the voice of history, +looking to the past, may only tell; but this appears more appreciable +and clear--that the perpetuation of the race as one of the elements of +mankind, must depend, in the sequel, however long that sequel be +postponed, on his substantial adoption of the principles of industry, +letters, and Christianity. The "tents of Shem," however we may read the +prediction, are still to be occupied, if they are not now, by a broad +philanthropy, to be merged into those of the higher civilization of +Japhet. For, the civilization and the moral elevation of man is the +great object of revelation; and it appears clear, and conformable to +reason, that, where future history is taught in the Pentateuch by +figures, it should be figuratively, and not dogmatically, explained. + + +On leaving Mrs. Lafferty's, in the morning of the 18th, we descended +about five miles, and stopped to breakfast at a Mr. Jones's. Rumor had +pointed out this place as the locality of a tin-mine. The frontiersmen +are greatly disposed to excite each other's imaginations by reports of +mines and discoveries, every one of which is fancied to be some new +Potosi or El Dorado. Our host was not backward in bringing to me some +specimens of his supposed treasure. It consisted of several heavy lumps +of the ore called, by mineralogists, iron glance. It had the usual +color, great weight, and high metallic lustre. He represented it as +occurring, in large bodies, about eight or ten miles north of his house, +on high lands, at the surface. + +We had proceeded some miles on our way, when a large black bear was +discovered on the shore. It appeared to be about to plunge in for the +purpose of crossing the river, when our presence alarmed it, and the +animal, with its usual clumsy gait, betook himself to the woods again. +The clumsiness of this animal's motions seems to be owing to the +bluntness of its hind paws, which appear as if, we should suppose, it +arose from re-curved legs. The Indians laugh at the gait of bruin. We +had encountered this species several times before, and always, as on +this occasion, found it disposed to flee. + +Fifteen miles below Jones's cabin, we passed Harden's ferry, the house +being on the right bank; and, two miles further on, we passed Morrison's +ferry. Continuing our descent eight miles lower, we landed at a place +called Poke Bayou, where we were hospitably received by a Mr. Robert +Bean. The river had now become a magnificent body of water, still clear +and beautiful. We were here within the boundaries of the Mississippi +alluvions. No highlands are visible for some distance before reaching +Harden's. The river winds through broad, fertile plains, bearing a most +vigorous growth of forest trees. The banks are elevated some thirty feet +above the water, and, as the stream increases in depth and strength, +they become subject to be undermined by the flood. The cane, which is +common to the river in its entire length, even to the highest elevations +of the Ozarks, is here of a tall and most vigorous growth. It is this +plant, I apprehend, more than any other feature, which gives an oriental +cast to these alluvial tracts; and I was almost ready, at some points, +where the growth concealed the trunks of the heavy forest, to see the +hippopotamus and elephant display their clumsy forms. For these, +however, we had the buffalo, the cougar, and the bear, whose crackling +strength, as they passed through these reedy mazes, had, on more than +one occasion during our rambles, reminded us of the great muscular power +of these boasted objects of hunter skill and enterprise. Often had a +fine dog, in the narrations of the hunters, paid the penalty of coming +within the stroke of the latter; and we could sympathise with the loss +of an animal, which is of the highest value in his pursuits. It is due +to this class of men to say, that, however rough they are in their +manners, we were uniformly received by them with a frank hospitality, +which appears to be always a point of honor with them; nor did any of +the number, to whom reward was proffered for entertainment, ever +condescend to receive a cent for anything in the shape of food or +lodging. + +The point of our landing was at the crossing of the lower Arkansas road. +About twelve or fourteen buildings of all sorts were clustered together, +forming a small village, which is now called Batesville; being the only +one which had been encountered since leaving Potosi. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[11] Treaty of 8th July, 1817. Vide Indian Treaties, p. 209. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + ANCIENT SPOT OF DE SOTO'S CROSSING WHITE RIVER IN 1542-- + LAMENESS PRODUCED BY A FORMER INJURY--INCIDENTS OF THE + JOURNEY TO THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER--DE SOTO'S ANCIENT + MARCHES AND ADVENTURES ON THIS RIVER IN THE SEARCH AFTER + GOLD--FOSSIL SALT--COPPER--THE ANCIENT RANGES OF THE + BUFFALO. + + +I determined to quit the river at this point, and, after a night's rest, +made the necessary arrangements. + +There is almost a moral certainty that De Soto must have crossed the +river above this place. The make of the land, and the custom of the +Indians in choosing the best ground for a path to travel from village to +village, would determine this. His position, after crossing the +Mississippi at the mouth of the St. Francis, and reaching the high +grounds of the latter, would lead the natives who were his guides to +keep the elevated and dry ranges leading to the buffalo country, west; +and he must have crossed the affluents of the Black and Currents rivers +at a high point towards the Ozarks. The dry and open woods afforded the +best ground for the march of his cavalry; and when he attempted to reach +the salt and buffalo country from the region east of White river, the +roughness of the country would lead him to the central points of that +stream. It would be interesting, as a point of antiquarian interest, to +know where the old Indian paths were located. The roads, in all parts of +the country, were based on these. They led to the most practicable fords +of rivers, they avoided swamps and boggy grounds, and evinced a thorough +geographical knowledge of the conformation of the country. + +To travel where De Soto had travelled, and where he had performed some +of his heroic feats, had something pleasing, at least, in the +association. Doubtless, had the first occupants of Upper Louisiana been +as mindful of historical reminiscences as they were set on repeating his +search for gold and silver mines, they might have been rewarded by +finding some of the straggling bones of his broken-down Andalusian +cavalry. The fragments of broken arms and trappings were yet, perhaps, +concealed by the accumulated rank vegetable soil of Arkansas and +Southern Missouri, whence the plough may at no distant day reveal them. + +It was ten o'clock on the morning of the 19th, when, having made every +necessary preparation, we left Mr. Bean's. I regretted the necessity of +making a selection from my collection of minerals and geological +specimens. We set out with great alacrity. For the first five miles, we +passed over a level, fertile tract, with several plantations; the +remaining thirteen miles were comparatively sterile and uneven, without +settlements. We had passed about seventeen miles of the distance, when +my right foot and ankle began to flinch. I was not sensible of any slip +or sprain in walking, but rather believe it resulted from too much +ardour and anxiety to get forward. I had, about four years previously, +dislocated and injured the same ankle in leaping down a precipice in the +Green mountains, having mistaken a granitical shelf of rock at its base, +which was covered with autumnal leaves, for soft soil. I believe the +suddenness and alacrity of this day's travel, after leaving the quietude +of the canoe, had awakened a sympathy in the injured nerves. In a short +time, the pain was unendurable. With great effort I walked a mile +further, and reached a double log house, the mistress of which bathed +the ankle with salt and water, and made other applications. Some +alleviation, but no permanent relief, was obtained. I then laid down +under the hope of being better, but awoke on the morning of the 20th +with little or no abatement of the pain, and inflammation. A traveller +on horseback, coming along that morning on a fine animal, agreed, for a +small compensation, to let me ride to the south fork of Strawberry +river, while he went afoot. This helped me over twelve miles of the +road, where his path diverged; and I felt so much relieved by it, on +dismounting, that I managed, by easy stages, to walk four miles farther, +which brought us to the main river. The afternoon was not yet spent; but +the pain of my ankle had returned before reaching the river, and I found +it in vain to press forward, without adequate repose. + + +The next morning (21st), my travelling companion, who cared nothing for +natural history or antiquities, and was urgent to push on, left me, and +returned to St. Louis. Left alone, I felt, for a few moments, a sense of +isolation; but I was now in a region where there was no longer any +danger to be apprehended for the want of the first necessaries of life. +My lameness required nothing, indeed, but perfect repose. The people +were kind, and, when I ascertained that my hostess was a sister of one +of the hunters who had guided me in the most remote parts of my +wanderings in the Ozarks, there was a manifest point of sympathy. + +I found by inquiry that there were appearances of a mineral deposit in +this vicinity, which seemed to connect the hilly grounds of Strawberry +river with similar indications which have been noticed near the Bull +shoals, on White river. Appearances denote the existence of sulphuret of +lead in the vicinity. The sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, and +white crystalline masses of quartz, characterize the uplands. When my +foot and ankle would bear it, I proceeded by easy paces northward, +going, the first day after leaving the Strawberry valley, ten miles, +which brought me to a place called Dogwood Springs, so named from the +_cornus florida_. The next day I went ten miles further, when I came to +the banks of Spring river, where I was entertained by Major Haynes. Here +I first saw cotton in the fields, being the unpulled bolls of the autumn +crop, which had not been thought worth gathering. + +Feeling no injury to result from these easy marches, which gave me time +to examine the appearances of the surface, I ventured a little farther +on the recovery of my ankle, and, the third day, went nineteen miles. In +this distance I crossed the stream called Elevenpoints, a tributary to +Spring river, and came, at a rather late hour in the evening, into a +small valley called Foosh-e-da-maw, a popular corruption of the French +_Fourche à Thomas_. It was quite dark when I applied for a night's +lodging at a small cabin, being the only one I had encountered for many +miles. The man and his wife, who were its only occupants, were +manifestly not blessed with much of this world's goods; but they were +kind, and, though they had already gone to bed, and had but one room, +they permitted me to occupy a part of the floor. Spare bed they had +none; but, had they possessed ever so many, I did not require one. +Camping out under the open heavens so long, had created a habit which +made it impossible for me to rest in a soft bed. I had declined one the +night before, at Spring river, and thrown myself on a single blanket, on +the hard puncheons. I wished to keep my nerves up to this tense state, +and the hardy habits of the woodman, while I was compelled to foot my +way, and take my chances for rough fare, for some time. + +With the earliest gleams of light I was up, and walked four miles to +breakfast. Twelve more brought me to Hicks's ferry, on a large stream +called the Currents. I had camped on the source of this river, in the +cliffs of the Ozarks, on my outward trip, and found the region +remarkable for its large saltpetre caves. It was here a river of eight +feet deep, and three hundred yards wide. At this spot I should have +stopped; for, after going beyond it, I found the country was thinly +settled, which compelled me to walk some time after nightfall, before I +could find a house; and, on presenting myself, the man proved to be +surly and gruff, and denied me lodging. It was evident to me, from words +that passed, that his wife was expecting to be ill; and, as the house +was small, there seemed some reason for his apparent unkindness. I had +already come twenty-three miles; the night was dark, and threatened +rain; and the next house distant. I should have been happy to exclaim, +with the poet, + + "Turn, gentle hermit of the dale, and guide my lonely way!" + +but there was no gentle hermit in sight. It was clearly not a question +of poetry, but was likely to be one of sober, down-right prose. I said +to him, finally, after a look into the black darkness and desolate +woods, that I would only claim my length on the floor, and, to give no +uneasiness to his good lady, be off at the slightest intimation. He +consented, and I laid down without receiving any notice of the lady's +expected illness till morning, when I left my pallet at a very early +hour. For three miles beyond, it was a rough region, through which it +required daylight to pass, and where I must have lost my way in the +dark, had I gone on, the night previously. + +I stopped at a cottage for breakfast. It was occupied by a poor woman. +Everything bore tokens of this fact. She appeared to have little in the +way of eatables herself, but was very willing, in the article of +breakfast, to share that little with me. I had passed the night before +supperless, after a long day's walk, and the morning's air had further +excited my appetite; still, I should have gone on, had another +habitation been near at hand; but what the good woman wanted in means, +she made up in readiness and hearty good-will; and, if the meal was not +sumptuous, I arose as well satisfied as if I had breakfasted with a +lord. + +Thus refreshed, I went on ten miles, which brought me to the banks of +Little Black river. Two miles beyond this stream, I stopped at the house +of a Mr. Reeves, at an early hour in the afternoon, my ankle giving +indications of returning lameness. Quiet, and a night's repose, had the +effect to relieve these symptoms, and I was enabled cautiously to +continue my journey the next day. Daylight was ever my signal for +rising, and, by easy stages, I made seventeen miles during the day, +walking early and late. The first six miles of this distance were made +before I stopped for breakfast, and the next ten miles brought me to the +ferry over Big Black river--a clear, rapid stream, which, in its +progress to the south, is the recipient of all the before-mentioned +streams, from the Strawberry river, north; and is itself, finally, a +tributary of White river, maintaining through it a free navigation with +the Mississippi. After crossing the ferry, I went about half a mile +further, and took up my night's lodgings at a Mr. Bollinger's. I felt no +further weakness of my foot and ankle, and was happy in the reflection +that my cautious movements had been such as not to overtax the strength +of my nerves. Indeed, from this point, (till 1830,) I experienced no +further symptoms of lameness. + + +On the next morning (28th), I walked seven miles, and took breakfast at +a Mr. Esty's, where I fell in with the old road, which had originally +been laid, when the country came to be settled, on the ancient Indian +path. The elevated lands between Black river and the St. Francis, had +evidently been the line of march of De Soto, when (in 1541) he set +forward from "Quiguate," on the St. Francis, toward the "north-west," in +search of Coligoa. Any other course between west and south-west, would +have involved his army in the lagoons, and deep and wide channel, of +Black river, which forms a barrier for about one hundred and fifty miles +toward the south; while this dividing ground, between the Black river +and St. Francis, consists chiefly of dry pine lands and open uplands, +offering every facility for the movements of his cavalry, which were +ever the dread of the Indians. + +The first Indian village which De Soto reached, after crossing the +Mississippi--probably at the ancient Indian crossing-place at the lower +Chickasaw bluffs--and pushing on through the low grounds, was on +reaching the elevations of the St. Francis, immediately west of his +point of landing. The place was called Casquin, or Casqui; a name which +will be recognized as bearing a resemblance to one of the Illinois +tribes, who have long been known under the name of Kaskaskias. From this +place on the high lands of the St. Francis, he ascended that river, +keeping the same side of its current, through a fine country, abounding +in the pecan and mulberry, a distance of seven leagues, to the central +position of the Casquins. Here it was, and not on the immediate banks of +the Mississippi, that he erected a gigantic cross, formed out of a pine +tree, which, after it was hewn, a hundred men could not lift. + +From this place, after a rest of several days, he was led, by the wily +chief, to march against the village and chief of Capaha, who was his +hereditary enemy, and who had, in past encounters, proved himself more +than his equal in prowess. De Soto was caught in this trap, which had +nearly proved fatal to his gallant army. + +Descending the high grounds, evidently, towards the north-east, and +crossing alluvial tracts, by a march of about six days he reached the +enemy, well posted, strong in numbers, and of great bravery, on the +pastoral elevations, which we are disposed to look for at the site of +the modern Spanish town of New Madrid. Capaha took shelter on a thickly +wooded island in the Mississippi river, where De Soto, assisted by his +allies, attacked him in canoes, and from which his allies, and +afterwards he himself, were glad to retreat. The chief was a most brave, +energetic young man, and fought against his combined enemies with the +spirit inspired by long acknowledged success. This place formed the +extreme northern limit of De Soto's expedition on the line of the +Mississippi, and must have been north of 35°. After this effort, he +retraced his steps slowly back to Casqui. + +The Kapahas, of whom the Sioux are ethnologically a branch, have +occupied the west banks of the Mississippi, extending to the base of the +Rocky mountains, as long as we have known that stream. They have been +inveterate enemies of the whole Algonquin race, to which the Kaskaskias +and Illinois belonged; and it is not improbable that they had, at this +early day, not only encountered the Spaniards, but that, after their +withdrawal, they fell on the Casquins, and drove them east of the +Mississippi, into the country of the Illinois. + +While De Soto was in the country of Capaha, he learned that about forty +leagues distant, (west, it must needs have been,) there were, in the +hill country, quantities of fossil salt, and also a yellowish metal, +which he supposed to be gold. He despatched two trusty and intelligent +men, with Indian guides and carriers, to procure samples. After an +absence of eleven days, they returned, with six of the Indians laden +with crystals of salt, and one of them with metallic copper. A hundred +and twenty miles west of the supposed point of starting, would carry the +messengers across the valley of White river, and far into the Ozark +plains and elevations, between the south fork of that stream, and the +north banks of the Arkansas--the same region, in fine, mentioned, in a +prior part of these sketches, as yielding those articles, on the +authority of the experienced woodsman, Teen Friend. The country through +which these messengers passed was sterile and thinly inhabited; but they +reported it to be filled with herds of buffalo. These reports led him to +march down the banks of the St. Francis, till he reached the village +called Quiguate. From thence, having heard of a locality called Coligoa, +where he thought there might be gold, he marched again north-west in +search of it. This march, in which he followed a single Indian guide, +must have led him to the foot of the rough, mountainous, granitic, and +mineral region, at the sources of the St. Francis. But this search +proved also a disappointment. He was informed that, six leagues north of +Coligoa, the buffalo existed in vast herds; but that, if he would reach +a rich province, he must march south. It is possible that, in this +latitude, he may have, a little, exceeded the utmost point reached by +him on the Mississippi; and he hence confined his adventurous marches to +Southern Missouri and Arkansas. + + +Having taken the road again, after my halt at Esty's, I travelled +diligently ten miles, at which distance I reached the ferry of Dr. +Bettis, at the St. Francis. The scene was rural and picturesque, the +river winding along in a deep and rapid bed, between elevated and +fertile banks. From appearances, and old fields, it seemed altogether +such a spot as might have answered the glowing Spanish descriptions of +Casqui. The ferry was managed by a black man; and we cut an American +half-dollar on the top of an oak stump, agreeably to the Kentucky mode, +to adjust the ferriage. On landing on the north bank, I pursued my +journey six miles farther, to one Smith's. It was now the 28th of +January, and the weather so mild, that I this day found the witch-hazel +in bloom. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + + PROCEED NORTH--INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE--A SEVERE TEMPEST OF + RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM--CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE + COUNTRY--THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO--A PRIMITIVE AND + MINERAL REGION--ST. MICHAEL--MINE A LA MOTTE--WADE THROUGH + WOLF CREEK--A DESERTED HOUSE--CROSS GRAND RIVER--RETURN TO + POTOSI. + + +I left my night's quarters before daylight was fairly developed. The sky +was, indeed, heavily overcast, and it soon commenced raining. Expecting +to find a house at no great distance, I kept on, the rain at the same +time assuming a more settled form, and falling with steadiness. It was +seven miles before I reached shelter (Swaim's). I was thoroughly wetted, +and, the storm continuing without abatement, I remained until the next +morning. The atmosphere was then clear, and the sun rose pleasantly; but +the roads were a perfect quagmire. An immense body of rain had fallen. +Every little rivulet roared as if it were a torrent that was out of all +patience to deliver its quantum of water to the swollen St. Francis. The +ground was perfectly saturated with water; but I picked my way four +miles to breakfast. It had been my intention to cross the St. Francis, +and take the route through Caledonia to Potosi; but after travelling +sixteen miles towards the north-west, and reaching the fords, I found +them too much swollen to make the attempt. + +After crossing the St. Francis, towards the north, there are strong +indications of a change in the geological structure of the country. The +horizontal limestone and sandstone series still continue for a distance; +but they are covered with large blocks of sienite and granite. What is +remarkable in these blocks, is their angular character, which denotes +that they have not been carried far south of their original beds. These +blocks increase in frequency and size as we approach the primitive +highlands of the St. Francis. And I at length stood, gazing at these +rough, red, crystalline peaks, and high orbicular knobs, which reach up +from beneath and through the calcareous and sedimentary series, without +having lifted up the latter into inclined positions, or in the least +disturbing their horizontality--a proof of their priority of position. + +I passed the night near the fords, at a farmer's; and finding it +impossible, the next morning, to pursue this route, or to get a boat or +canoe to cross the river, obtained directions for making my way +north-eastwardly, towards St. Michael's. I was now in the probable +region of De Soto's Coligoa, the utmost north-westwardly point of his +explorations. And it ceased to be a matter of surprise that the Indians +had given him such wonderful accounts of the mineral wealth of the +sources of the St. Francis. The white inhabitants, at this day, have +similar notions. They perceive such an unusual geological display before +and around them, that they suppose it indicates mineral treasures. There +are stories afloat of all kinds of mineral discoveries--not of gold, +indeed, which was De Soto's search, but of tin, lead, copper, iron, +cobalt, and antimony. The iron mountains of Bellevieu, so called, are +part of this development. At a place called the Narrows, the river +rushes between alpine peaks of sienite and black hornblende rock, which +lies in huge and confused heaps, plainly indicating ancient volcanic +action. I had examined this region, with minuteness, the previous +summer, in an excursion through the southern limits of the lead-mines, +and now revisited some of the points, respecting which, my curiosity was +unsatisfied. I wandered among these attractive peaks about ten miles, +and slept at a house (Burdett's), to the occupant of which, I had +carried a letter of introduction the year before. + +The next day (Feb. 1) proved rainy; but I took advantage of intervals in +the weather to advance on my general course about three miles. The sky, +the next morning, was still cloudy, dark, and unsettled. When it +indicated signs of clearing up, I was advised of another ford of the +St. Francis, at a higher point; and I proceeded a part of the way to +reach it; but accounts discouraged me, and I bent my steps to the +village of St. Michael. Two miles north of this, I came to the noted +lead-mine of La Motte, the most southerly in position of the Missouri +circle of mines. At this place, they raised large tubular masses of +lead-ore, from its position in the red, marly clay. The slags drawn from +the ash-furnace denoted, by the intensity of their blue color, its +connexion with the oxide of cobalt. Ten miles beyond these mines, after +passing an uninhabited tract, I entered Cook's settlement, where I +slept. + +Next day, I was again in motion at early dawn. The effects of the late +copious rains were still an impediment to travelling; but I experienced +no further symptoms of lameness, and felt the desire to press on, +increasing in proportion as I drew near my starting-point in the prior +autumn. I felt that I had succeeded in the accomplishment of a trip of +some peril, through a noted mountainous range, into which all but one of +my original party had failed to accompany me, and my guides had deserted +me at a moment of peculiar peril. It was also true that my only +companion had rather abruptly left me, when taken lame on the road. I +could not, as I approached the spot of organizing my party for this +exploration, help feeling a degree of buoyancy of spirits, while +returning to it, in the hope of again meeting familiar acquaintances +face to face. + +Under this impulse, and with the high health produced by daily exercise, +I travelled ten miles on the following day. On reaching Wolf creek, it +was found to be filled to overflowing. It was already dark; and a +ruinous, tenantless house, with the doors and windows standing open, was +the only object that presented itself on the opposite bank. Horse or +canoe, there was none; but there could be no hesitation in attempting to +cross it. The waters, in the deepest parts of the channel, reached to my +breast. I came out, of course, dripping; it was still two miles to the +next house, and, casting furtive glances at the masses of darkness in +the deserted dwelling, and with a path muddy and indistinct, I hurried +on to the point of my destination. + +It was the 4th of February when I crossed Big river, the Grande river of +the days of Crozat and the financier Law. I was carried across it in the +ferry-boat, and took my way over the sylvan, long, sweeping mineral +hills, which stretch toward Potosi, entering that busy town at a +seasonable hour, having travelled fifteen miles. The first acquaintance +I encountered, on reaching within a few miles of it, was a Major +Hawkins--a surveyor, an old resident, and a good woodsman, who, +cordially extending his hand to welcome my return, exclaimed, "I thought +the Indians or the wolves had long ago eaten you up." This was the first +intimation I received that there had been any temerity in the plan for +this expedition. + +Potosi was now selected as the place for drawing up an account of the +mines, and the mineralogical productions and resources, of the +country--a memoir on which, was published at New York in the autumn of +this year (1819), and which is inserted, in a revised form, in the +Appendix to these sketches. + + + + +PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST. + +TWO LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE HON. J. B. THOMAS, +U. S. SENATE, WASHINGTON. + + +I. + + POTOSI, Missouri, Feb. 9th, 1819. + +SIR: I beg leave to address you on the subject of my recent +expedition into the Ozark region. When I was at your house at Cahokia, I +mentioned to you my design of making a tour into the interior of the +Territory. I have just returned from the excursion. Two persons were +associated with me in the enterprise; but one of them, our mutual +friend, Mr. Brigham, was compelled by illness to relinquish the journey, +and return, after he had reached Potosi. + +We proceeded in a south-west direction, which carried us across the +sources of the Maramec and Gasconade. We then entered on the elevated +highlands, which alternately pour their waters into the Missouri and +Mississippi rivers, reaching, in their development, to the Washita +river. Through this rough alpine range, the Arkansas, rising in the +Rocky mountains, penetrates, and is the only river that completely +separates the chain. Our explorations were confined to the region lying +on its northern banks. Winter overtook us on the sources of the White +river, giving us a few days of severe weather, but offering, generally, +no impediment to travelling. There is much that is most striking and +picturesque in the scenery of this region, and not less in its +productions and physical character. Nowhere, probably, on the globe, is +there such a remarkable succession of limestone caverns, and large, +transparent springs. At several places, large brooks flow abruptly out +of crevices in the rock; and at one place, a flowing stream, Spring +river, thus originates. We found the ores of lead, iron, and manganese, +in large bodies. The high uplands are often rent by precipitous valleys +and large chasms, caused by the force of these streams. These valleys +are well wooded, and contain the richest soil. And this broad region +must at no distant day attract settlement, and will afford facilities +for agriculture and mining, while its abundant water-power gives it +great advantages for milling and manufactures. + +The country is a continuation of the limestone and sandstone formations +of the west banks of the Mississippi. The number and extent of the +caverns in this formation, is, indeed, remarkable. They yield saltpetre +earth, wherever they have been explored. Nitrate of potash has been +manufactured in some of these caves, and transported across the +wilderness for eighty miles; and a valuable traffic in this article may +be established. In the district between the head-waters of White river +and the Arkansas, salt is found, in a crystallized state, in the +prairies. The region is still occupied by herds of the buffalo, elk, +deer, and by the bear, and smaller animals of the latitude, which +renders it an attractive country to hunters and trappers. + +The Osage Indians, who inhabit it, are the cause of fear and alarm to +this class; but it did not appear to us, from the sparse numbers of the +Indians, and the periodical flying visits they are in the habit of +making the eastern and northern parts of it, that there is ground of +permanent apprehension from this source. The policy of locating the +Cherokees on the north banks of the Arkansas, may well be questioned; +and I have heard this arrangement much spoken against. + +Indeed, the agricultural value of the country has been much underrated. +Independent of the mineral discoveries mentioned, the arable lands of +the Ozark summit-level constitute one of the richest and most beautiful +districts in the Territory. The high grass and flowers which cover the +prairie-lands, impart the most sylvan aspect to the scene. Springs of +the purest water abound, and, by avoiding the chasms, the country is +susceptible of being traversed by roads. It only requires to be better +known, to attract the notice of emigrants, and will some day bear a +great population. I do not doubt that the high road from St. Louis to +Fort Smith will probably cross this tract of country. Such a route must +greatly shorten the distance. + +I cannot refer you to a correct map of the country, and therefore +enclose you a sketch, explanatory of my route. From a conversation with +Mr. Brigham, I cannot mistake your friendly influence in these +explorations. I am desirous to extend them to other parts of the +frontiers. I understand that the Secretary of War entertains enlarged +and enlightened views on the subject. I should be pleased to be employed +in this branch of the public service. + + I am, with respect, your ob't serv't, + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + + +II. + + POTOSI, Feb. 15, 1819. + +SIR: I had the honor, on the 9th instant, to address you on the +subject of my journey into the region of the Ozarks. You will allow me +again to trouble you on the subject of explorations. + +Government has long been acquainted, by reports, with the existence of +native copper on the Upper Mississippi, and the banks of lake Superior. +I believe the attempt was made about 1798, to have the localities +explored. I know not what success attended that attempt. Probably the +remoteness of the country, and the hostility of the Indian tribes, were +unfavorable. But I am persuaded that the object is one of importance. + +The mineralogy of those regions became the topic of early interest, even +in the days of the French supremacy. Copper appears to characterize an +extensive area. It is stated to break out in the immediate vicinity of +St. Anthony's falls, and to continue through to the southern shores of +lake Superior. In its exploration, other traits of the natural history +of the country would be developed. + +The establishment of a military post at St. Anthony's falls, renders the +present a favorable time for exploring the region. Its features and +resources are objects of deep interest; and it appears to be the policy +of the government, in the disposition of its western and northern posts, +to prepare the way for ascertaining these traits at the earliest period. +The position of the most advanced posts which are now in the process of +location, is such as to afford great facilities for exploration. The +hostilities of the Indians are repressed, and a survey of these parts of +the public domain could now be effected with comparative safety, and at +little expense. + +Should you think the appointment of an agent for this purpose, to +accompany some of the military movements, would be favorably received by +the Secretary of War, may I indulge the hope that, in recommending it, +you will remember me in the premises? + + I am, with respect, your ob't serv't, + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + + + + + APPENDIX. + + OBSERVATIONS + + ON THE + + MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, ANTIQUITIES, + + AND + + GEOGRAPHY OF THE WESTERN COUNTRY. + + + + +LIST OF PAPERS. + + A. MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES. + + 1. A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI. + + 2. A CATALOGUE OF THE MINERALS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. + + 3. MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WESTERN COUNTRY. A LETTER TO GEN. + C. G. HAINES. + + + B. GEOGRAPHY. + + 1. MISSOURI. + + 2. HOT SPRINGS OF WASHITA. + + 3. MEMOIR OF WHITE RIVER. + + 4. LIST OF STEAMBOATS ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER IN 1819. + + + C. ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY. + + 1. ARTICLES OF CURIOUS WORKMANSHIP FOUND IN ANCIENT INDIAN GRAVES. + + 2. ANCIENT INDIAN CEMETERY FOUND IN THE MARAMEC VALLEY. + + + + +I. LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI. + +A MEMOIR ON THE GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY OF MISSOURI, DRAWN UP IN 1819. + + + + +PREFACE. + +When we reflect on the history of our own country--its advance in arts, +commerce, and agriculture, and the rapidity with which its population +has increased, and its resources been developed--the mind is with +difficulty brought to believe that all this has taken place within a +comparatively short period. These developments are particularly striking +in the region west of the Alleghany mountains. A new world has, as it +were, been discovered in the Mississippi valley, which, under the strong +impulse of emigration, has been transformed, as if by superhuman +exertions. No sooner had its great fertility and productiveness become +known, than a universal desire for correct information sprang up. Our +first travellers in that region did little more, however, than glance at +its most obvious and grand features; and with respect to some topics, +such as its antiquities and natural history, these notices have had the +effect rather to stimulate, than to gratify curiosity. + +But, whatever information has been published respecting the country, its +mineralogy and geology have remained wholly unnoticed. The mines of +Missouri, especially, have failed to attract the consideration which +they merit. To supply this deficiency, I have written the following +memoir. It is the result of no ordinary degree of opportunity of +observation upon the particular mines, and their geological position in +the great metalliferous limestone formation west of the Mississippi. +Besides visiting the principal mines, and traversing the country +thoroughly, to ascertain the character and value of its mineral +resources and geological developments, I made an exploratory tour +through the broad and elevated region of the Ozarks, lying west and +south of this celebrated tract, extending into the Territory of +Arkansas. If, therefore, I have failed to collect a body of facts +sufficient to impress the reader with a sense of the extent, value, and +importance of the country, and particularly of its mines and minerals, +it can hardly be ascribed to a want of opportunity, or, indeed, of +assiduity in the study or arrangement of my facts. + +The historical data here recorded, respecting Renault's operations, have +never, I believe, appeared in print. They were elicited in the course of +a legal investigation, instituted between the heirs-at-law of Renault, +the agent of Crozat, in 1723, and sundry individuals, who claimed the +same grants on the authority of a date subsequent to the transfer of +Louisiana to the United States. + +The drawings I give of the lead-furnaces which are peculiar to that +section of country, are from actual measurement, done under the eye of +an operative smelter of approved skill at Potosi, and are conceived to +be minutely correct. + + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + NEW YORK, Nov. 25, 1819. + +In republishing this memoir, advantage has been taken of several +judicious suggestions respecting it, made in a critical notice of it, by +the able editor of the American Journal of Science, in the volume of +that work for 1821. + + H. R. S. + WASHINGTON, Jan. 20, 1853. + + + + +A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI. + + +SECTION I. + +HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE MINES. + +The rage for adventure, which the brilliant exploits of Cortez, Pizarro, +and other Spanish adventurers, had excited throughout Europe, continued +for a long time to agitate the public mind, and had not abated at the +commencement of the eighteenth century, when an idea of the mineral +riches of Louisiana had become prevalent. Gold and silver were then the +chief objects which engrossed attention; and in search of them, the +earliest discoverers were led to penetrate into the interior. The +physical aspect of the country was in general such as to flatter the +most sanguine expectations of mineral wealth; and the further the +country became known, the more interesting was found its mineralogical +character. To men whose preconceived ideas of a country were already +high, such appearances must have had the most inspiriting effect, and +lightened the embarrassments they encountered in exploring a wilderness. +Many of the useful metals were thus met with, and gold and silver mines +were reported to have been discovered in several places. Red river, the +Arkansas, and the river La Platte of the Missouri, were particularly +mentioned; and from the evidence which is afforded by the discovery of +ancient furnaces, &c., there is reason to conclude that those metals +were wrought at a very early period. Judging from appearances, they were +ready to conclude the country exhaustless in mines; and the most +exaggerated accounts of them appear to have been transmitted to Europe, +particularly to France, where a lively interest was felt in the +prosperity of the infant colonies in Louisiana and Illinois; and in the +descriptions published at that day, the lands are reputed to equal in +fertility the banks of the Nile, and the mountains to vie with the +wealth of Peru. + +It was in this supposition of the immense wealth of Louisiana, both in +the vegetable and mineral kingdoms, that the renowned Mississippi scheme +originated, which, from the imposing character it was made to assume +under the guidance and direction of M. Law, drew upon it the eyes, not +only of France, but of all Europe, and produced one of the most +memorable disappointments recorded in the annals of commercial +speculation. + +Louis XIV., by letters patent, bearing date September 14th, A. D. 1712, +granted to Anthony Crozat, Counsellor of State, Secretary of the +Household, &c., the exclusive privilege of commerce of that district of +country, now known as the States of Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, +and Illinois, and the Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, with the +proprietary right of the mines and minerals he should discover in the +country, reserving the fifth part of all bullion of gold and silver, and +the one-tenth of the produce of all other mines. The exclusive privilege +of commerce was granted for a term of fifteen years; but the right of +the mines was conveyed in perpetuity to him and his heirs, on the +condition that such mines and minerals should revert back to the crown +of France, whenever the working of them was discontinued for three years +together. The bounds of Louisiana, as granted to Crozat, are described +in these words: "Bounded by New Mexico, (on the west,) and by the lands +of the English of Carolina, (on the east,) including all the +establishments, ports, havens, rivers, and principally the port and +haven of the Isle of Dauphine, heretofore called Massaerè; the river of +St. Louis, heretofore called Mississippi, from the edge of the sea as +far as the Illinois; together with the river of St. Philip, heretofore +called Ouabache (Wabash); with all the countries, territories, lakes +within land, and the rivers which fall directly or indirectly into that +part of the river of St. Louis." + +In the month of August, A. D. 1717, M. Crozat solicited permission to +retrocede to the crown his privilege of the exclusive commerce and the +mines of Louisiana, which was granted by an arret of the Council of +State, during the minority of Louis XV. In the same month, letters +patent were granted by the Council of the Regency to an association of +individuals at Paris, under the name of "The Company of the West," by +which they were invested with the exclusive privilege of the commerce of +Louisiana, and the working of the mines, to the same extent as it was +enjoyed under the grant of Crozat. These letters patent were dated on +the 23d of August, A. D. 1717, registered 6th September of the same +year, and were to be in force on the 1st of January, 1718, and to +continue for a period of twenty-five years. By them, not only such +grants and privileges were conveyed as had previously been enjoyed by +Crozat; but they were invested with additional powers, rights, and +privileges. The territory was granted in free allodium, (_en franc +allieu_,) in lordship and injustice, the crown reserving to itself no +other rights or duties but those of fealty and liege homage, which the +company was required to pay to the king, and to his successors at each +mutation of kings, with a crown of gold of the weight of thirty marks. +The boundaries were the same as described in the grant to Crozat; and +the mines and mining grounds, opened or discovered during the term of +its privilege, were declared to belong to the company incommutably, +without being holden to pay any rents or proceeds whatever. The company +was also invested with the right to sell and alienate the lands of its +concession, at whatever price or rents they might fix, and even to grant +them _en franc allieu_, without reserving the rights of justice or +lordship. It was also provided, that if, after the expiration of the +twenty-five years for which the exclusive privilege of commerce was +granted, the king should not see proper to continue the privilege by a +new grant, all the lands and islands, mines, and mining grounds, which +the Company of the West should have inhabited, worked, improved, or +disposed of on rent, or any valuable consideration whatever, should +remain to it for ever in fee simple, to use and dispose of as a proper +inheritance, on the simple condition that the company should never sell +such lands to any other than the subjects of France. + +A company incorporated with such ample rights and privileges, did not +fail to draw upon it the attention of the speculative, or to enlist the +aid of the enterprising capitalists of the French metropolis. The +country of the Illinois was reputed rich beyond comparison: the +financial estimates submitted to the view of the public, offered +prospects of unusual gain, and capitalists flocked with avidity from all +quarters to enrol themselves as members of the company, and partake of +the promised wealth. If anything had been wanting to accelerate the pace +of adventurers, or to fan the ardor of hope, it was the genius, the +financial abilities, and the commanding influence of M. Law, who was +placed at the head of the company, and was the moving power in every +transaction. Hence, it is no subject for surprise that the most +extravagant anticipations were entertained by the members of the Company +of the West, or that the unusual splendor of the Mississippi scheme was +only equalled by the signal disappointment in which it eventuated. + +In the year after the Company of the West had been instituted by the +royal patent of the king, they formed an establishment in the country of +the Illinois, at fort Chartres; and in order to promote the objects of +their institution, and to encourage the settlement of the country, held +out the most liberal inducements to French emigrants, and made them +donations of all lands which they should cultivate or improve. Miners +and mechanics were also encouraged to emigrate; and the city of New +Orleans, which had been founded during the last year of the authority of +Crozat (1717), received a considerable accession to its population in +the fall of the same year, and settlements began to extend along the +banks of the Mississippi, and in the country of the Illinois. + +Among the number of adventurers to Illinois, was Philip Francis Renault, +(the son of Philip Renault, a noted iron-founder at Consobre, near to +Mauberge, in France,) who came over as the agent of the Company of St. +Phillips, an association of individuals which had been formed under the +patronage of the western company, for prosecuting the mining business in +the upper country of Louisiana and Illinois. It appears also that he +was a member of the Company of the West, and he is spoken of as +"Director-General of the mines of the Royal Company in Illinois;" a name +by which not only the present State of Illinois, but a vast district of +the adjoining country, appears then to have been known. + +Renault left France in the year 1719, with two hundred artificers and +miners, provided with tools, and whatever else was necessary for +carrying the objects of the company into effect. In his passage he +touched at the island of St. Domingo, and purchased five hundred slaves +for working the mines; and, entering the Mississippi, pursued his voyage +up that river to New Orleans, which he reached some time in the year +1720, and soon afterwards proceeded on his way to Kaskaskia, in +Illinois. Kaskaskia was then inhabited solely by the French, and was one +of the earliest posts occupied by them when they began to extend +themselves from Canada, along the great western lakes, and down the Ohio +and Mississippi. Renault established himself in the vicinity of this +town, near fort Chartres, at a spot which he named St. Phillips, (now +called the Little Village,) and from this sent out his mining and +exploring parties into various sections of Illinois and Louisiana. These +parties were either headed by himself, or by M. La Motte; an agent +versed in the knowledge of minerals, whom he had brought over with him. +In one of the earliest of these excursions La Motte discovered the +lead-mines on the St. Francis, which bear his name; and, at a subsequent +period, Renault made the discovery of those extensive mines north of +Potosi, which continue to be called after him. Other mines of lead were +also found, but their distinctive appellations have not survived; and a +proof of the diligence with which Renault prosecuted the object, is +furnished by the number and extent of the old diggings which are yet +found in various parts of the country. These diggings are scattered over +the whole mine country; and hardly a season passes, in which some +antique works, overgrown with brush and trees, are not found. + +Renault, being probably disappointed in the high expectations he had +formed of finding gold and silver, turned his whole force towards the +smelting of lead; and there is reason to conclude that very great +quantities were made. It was conveyed from the interior on pack-horses +(the only mode of transportation which was practicable at that early +period). The lead made by Renault was sent to New Orleans, and thence +chiefly shipped for France. That he also discovered copper, is probable, +as a grant of land made to him at Old Peoria, on the Illinois river, +embraces a copper-mine. + +Renault's operations were, however, retarded and checked, from a quarter +where it was least expected. By an edict of the king, made at Paris, in +May, 1719, the Company of the West was united to the East India and +Chinese Company, under the title of the Company Royal of the Indies (_La +Compagnie Royale des Indies_). And in 1731, the whole territory was +retroceded to the crown of France, the objects of the company having +totally failed; and Renault was left in America, without the means of +prosecuting the shining business. His exertions in behalf of the company +were not, however, overlooked by the government, and four several grants +of land were made to him in consideration of his services. These grants +bear date June 14th, A. D. 1723, and cover the Mine La Motte, and some +other very valuable tracts, which, after having laid dormant for a +period of about sixty years, have recently been claimed by the +representatives of his heirs-at-law. + +Renault, however, remained in Illinois several years after the explosion +of the Mississippi scheme, and did not return to his native country +until 1742. With him the greater part of his workmen returned; the +slaves were sold, and the mining business fell into neglect. Here is a +period to the first attempt at mining in Louisiana. The country was +ceded to Spain in 1762, and taken possession of in 1769. + +After Renault's departure, little or nothing appears to have been done +in the way of mining; and, even after the Spanish had taken possession +of the country, the lead-mines were but little attended to. The force +which Renault had with him was sufficient to protect him from the +attacks of the savages; but, after his departure, the settlements on the +Mississippi, feeble in themselves, could not furnish protection to such +as might be disposed to work at the mines. The Spanish, however, in a +few years after taking possession of the country, did something; and in +process of time new discoveries were made, and the mining business began +to assume a more respectable character. The principal discovery made +under the Spanish authority was that of Mine à Burton, which takes its +name from a person of the name of Burton, or Le Breton,[12] who, being +out on a hunt in that quarter, found the ore lying on the surface of +the ground. This man, who is still living in the vicinity of St. +Genevieve, at the advanced age of one hundred and nine years, had been +employed while a youth under Renault. The period of this discovery it +would be very difficult now to ascertain, Burton himself being unable to +fix it. It has probably been known about forty years. + +The processes of mining pursued under the Spanish government appear to +have been very rude and imperfect, not more than fifty per cent. of lead +being got from the ore. The common open log furnace was the only one +employed, and the lead-ashes were thrown by as useless. + +In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., performed a journey from the lead-mines in +Wythe county, Virginia, to the Mine à Burton, in Louisiana, and obtained +a grant of land one league square, from the Spanish authorities, in +consideration of erecting a reverberatory furnace, and other works, for +prosecuting the mining business at those mines. This he commenced in +1798, previous to which time no furnace for smelting the ashes of lead +had been erected. Mr. Austin sunk the first regular shaft for raising +the ore, and introduced some other improvements which were found +beneficial. He also, in 1799, erected a shot-tower, in which patent shot +of an approved quality were made. A manufactory of sheet-lead was +completed during the same year, and the Spanish arsenals at New Orleans +and Havana drew a considerable part of the supplies for their navy from +this source. + +About this time, a few other American families crossed over into +Louisiana Territory, and settled in the neighborhood of the mines. +These, from their more enlightened and enterprising spirit, were an +acquisition to the mining interest; and as their earliest attention was +directed to it, the lead business began to revive; and at the time the +Territory was taken possession of by the United States, the mines were +extensively and advantageously worked.[13] The Mine à Robino, Mine à +Martin, and many others, were shortly afterwards discovered. Since the +year 1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied; +Shibboleth, New Diggings, Lebaum's, and Bryan's mines, are among the +latest discoveries of consequence. + +The lead-mines did not fail to attract the earliest attention of the +American government; and, immediately after the occupation of the +Territory, measures were taken to ascertain their situation, the method +of working them, &c. Several laws have since been enacted on the +subject, and a reservation made of all discoveries upon public lands. + +The emigration to Louisiana, which had partially commenced under the +Spanish government, took a more decided character after the cession of +the country to the United States, but has been particularly great within +the last few years. + +In 1812, that part of Louisiana bordering on the gulf of Mexico, +including New Orleans, and extending up the Mississippi to 33° north +latitude, was erected into a State under the name of Louisiana, and the +remainder formed into a territorial government by the name of Missouri. +There is a petition now before Congress (Feb. 1819) for the admission of +Missouri into the Union on a footing with the original States. By this +petition it is contemplated that White river will form the southern +boundary; and the country between that and the northern line of +Louisiana, including our claims on the Spanish, will be erected into a +territorial government, under the name of Arkansas.[14] + +Respecting the present state of the lead-mines, it is only necessary +here to add, that they are worked in a more improved manner than at any +former period; that they are more extensive than when the country came +into the hands of the United States, and of course give employment to a +greater number of miners, while every season is adding to the number of +mines; and that the ores may be considered of the richest kind. Every +day is developing to us the resources of this country in minerals, and +particularly in lead; and we cannot resist the belief that, in riches +and extent, the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no other mineral +district. In working the mines, in raising and smelting the ore, and in +the establishment of the different manufactures dependent upon it, there +is much to be done. Though the processes now pursued are greatly +superior to those in use under the French and Spanish governments, there +is still ample room for improvement. The earth has not yet been +penetrated over eighty feet! We know not what may be found in the lower +strata of the soil. There is reason to believe that the main bodies of +ore have not yet been hit upon; that they lie deeper, and that we have +thus far only been engaged upon the spurs and detached masses. There is +also reason to believe that bodies of the ores of zinc exist in the +district of the mines, and that copper will be afforded by the lower +strata of earth. It is found overlaid by lead-ores in many of the +European mines; and the geognostic character of the country leads us to +conclude that it may also be found here. + +The want of capitalists in the mine country, and of practical skill in +the boring, blasting, sinking shafts and galleries, oppose obstacles to +the successful progress of mining. There is but one regular +hearth-furnace for smelting in the whole district; and that is on the +modern plan of English furnaces. There are not over four or five regular +shafts in about forty mines; there is not an engine, either by horse, +steam, or water power, for removing water from the mines, several of +which have been abandoned on this account, with rich prospects of ore in +view. In fine, there is little of that system which characterizes the +best-conducted European mines, and which, by an application of the most +recent discoveries in mechanics, chemistry, and philosophy, render them +the admiration of every intelligent visiter. Should the subject attract +the attention of mining capitalists, the circumstance would form a new +era in the history of the mining operations of this country. Something +also remains to be done by the government; the existing laws are +inadequate to the purposes for which they were enacted. That feature +restricting leases to three years, is injudicious; the period is so +short, that it deters those who are most able from engaging in it at +all. It is desirable that such a system should be established as would +indicate the annual produce of the mines, number of hands employed, and +such other facts as are necessary in forming a series of statistical +tables on the subject. The want of such data has hitherto prevented us +from properly estimating the importance of the mines in a national point +of view. The acquisition of a scientific knowledge of minerals should +also be facilitated in this quarter. There should be a mineralogical +school located in the country, where students might be instructed in +that useful science. In a country so rich in minerals, and whose wealth +will always so much depend upon a proper development of these resources, +the knowledge of mineralogy should be laid open to every one, and should +be within the reach of such as do not wish, or cannot get, the other +branches of a liberal education. To obtain this knowledge now, a person +would be compelled to travel to remote parts of the Union, and to incur +an unreasonable expense. No one who is conversant with the advantages +which Germany has derived from such a seminary, will deny the utility of +a similar one in the United States. + +Yet, with all the disadvantages under which the lead-mines have been +viewed, there are many who may be surprised to find their annual +products, from the best information, stated at three millions of pounds; +and from this some idea may be formed of their riches and extent, and, +when they come to be properly and regularly worked, how greatly they +will contribute to the national wealth.[15] + + +SECTION II. + +TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL OUTLINE OF THE MINE COUNTRY. + +The district of country formerly known as the lead-mines of Louisiana, +extends from the head waters of the St. Francis, in a north-west +direction, to the Maramec, a distance of seventy miles, by about +forty-five in width, having the Mississippi on its eastern borders. It +is included, very nearly, between 37° and 38° north latitude, and +comprises an area of about three thousand square miles. Most of the +mines are situated within a circle of this general area, of which Potosi +and Mine à Burton constitute a centre. + +The rock formation of the country appears to be simple and uniform. At +the lowest depths observed in valleys, there is a crystalline sandstone, +which often consists of transparent quartzose grains, adhering by the +force of aggregation. The lead-bearing limestone reposes upon this. Both +formations are deposited in perfectly horizontal strata. Valleys which +carry streams have been worn down into this formation, presenting this +order of arrangement very satisfactorily. A stratum of red, marly clay, +spreads over the limestone. Above this, constituting the top layer, or +surface soil, rests a bed of diluvial materials, filled with broken-down +fragments of rock, masses of radiated quartz, and chips of hornstone. +Vegetable matter and black sand form a covering over such parts of this +diluvial deposit as constitute valleys and agricultural plains. The +Mississippi river lays open this formation along its western banks, from +the influx of the Missouri to Cape Girardeau. + +Beneath this metalliferous column lie the primitive rocks. The most +striking feature of this kind is found in the occurrence of a primitive +formation at the sources of the river St. Francis. My attention was +arrested by this fact, soon after I began to examine the mine country. +This formation consists of sienite, rather than granite; the mica being +generally replaced or represented by hornblende. The feldspar, which +constitutes three-fourths of the mass, is of a dull red hue. The rock in +connection is greenstone trap, which is sometimes porphyritic. I +observed small masses of sulphuret of iron in some parts of this rock. +The upheaval of this formation appears to have been of the most ancient +era of geological action; for the stratified limestones and sandstones, +which lie upon or in juxtaposition to these elevations, have not been +disturbed in their horizontality. The altitude of this primitive tract +does not probably exceed one thousand feet above the waters of the St. +Francis river. Vast blocks of the red sienite have been detached, and +scattered southwardly over the secondary rocks, apparently by the force +of some antique deluge, setting from the north. The whole series of +formations may be judged of by the following diagram: + +[Illustration] + +The general aspect of the country is sterile, though not mountainous. +The lands lie rolling, like a body of water in gentle agitation. In some +places they rise into abrupt cliffs, where the rock formations appear. +Generally, they present the form of diluvial ridges, sparingly covered +with forest, and bearing a growth of prairie-grass and herbage. The +western banks of the Mississippi, between St. Genevieve and Herculaneum, +present a mural front to this district, in a series of elevated +perpendicular cliffs of compact limestone. The whole coast extending to +St. Louis, appears to be sufficiently elevated to have served as a +former barrier to waters covering the low grounds of Illinois. The +strata exhibit ancient water-marks of a diluvial character. They are +broken through, from the west, by small streams draining the mine +country. + +No indications of lead-ore have been found in these cliffs. The mines +are situated at considerable distances west of them; and when the +observer has arrived at their localities, he finds the ore often lying +in the unconsolidated soil. This soil is a stiff, reddish-colored clay, +filled with fragments of cherty stones, quartz, and small gravel, +clearly attesting its diluvial character. This soil extends to the depth +of from ten to twenty feet, or more, and is based on limestone rock. It +is so firm, in some places, as almost to resist the pick-axe; in others, +it partakes more fully of marl, and is readily penetrated. The ore lies +in this marly clay, and is often accompanied by sulphate of barytes and +calcareous spar. The country is particularly characterized by radiated +quartz, which is strewn in detached pieces over the ground, and is also +found imbedded in the soil at all depths. This substance is here called +_blossom of lead_, or _mineral blossom_. Pyrites, and some other ores of +iron, are also found in detached masses upon the surface, and, very +rarely, lead-ore. + +Such is the general character of the mineral lands, which are covered +with a stunted growth of oaks, denominated post-oaks. Walnut is found in +some instances out of the valleys. A ridge of yellow pine extends west +of the mines, between the St. Francis and Maramec, and is more decidedly +barren than the grounds covered with oak. All the open, elevated tracts, +are clothed with herbage, which hides their flinty aspect, and gives the +country a picturesque appearance. The minor slopes and ravines are often +rendered almost impassable by hazel, vines, and other bramble, which +appear to be indicative of a better, or rather a deeper soil. The whole +area of upland soil, which rests as a mantle over the rocks, is a +diluvium, which must, we think, be referred to an early period of +diluvial action. + +The only true alluvium of the mines appears to be confined to the +valleys or plains, which are, consequently, the principal seats of +cultivation, and thus derive an additional value from their contiguity +to the barren tracts. This alluvium rests on the red marl-clay, or +mineral diluvium; the latter of which is uniformly found on penetrating +it. Some of the mines exist in, and have been pursued beneath, this top +alluvion, across the valleys. Others are seated beneath an arable soil, +bearing a forest. Many of the most barren and stony parts of the +elevated lands are, on the contrary, destitute of mines. The depth of +the mineral soil varies exceedingly. It barely conceals the rock +formations in many of the more elevated positions, and frequently does +not conceal them. It is deepest in the plains and depressed grounds, +being accumulated much in the manner we should expect, on the +supposition of a general diluvial submersion. + +The principal objection to a general diluvial action, involving the +whole Mississippi valley, appears to arise from the admission of the +limestone rock's being the true locality of the ore. But we think there +are too many facts in support of this opinion, to leave any reasonable +grounds for questioning it. Several of the mines in the mineral soil +have been traced down into the rock, and have been pursued through +apertures, closing and expanding in the manner of true veins. In the +numerous cases where the rock has put a stop to further mining, and it +has exhibited no signs of ore, it may be supposed that the ore has been +moved, by diluvial force, from the original position of the mine, and +been finally deposited, with the soil, upon unmetalliferous portions of +the rock. And could we with certainty determine the course of diluvial +action, the principles of mining might be, in some respects, employed in +searching for the original vein. It is evident, from the unscratched +and unbroken surface of much of the ore and its spars, that it could not +have been transported far; while the portions of it called gravel ore, +which evince its diluvial character, are manifest proofs of a change, +more or less extensive, in the general position of the ore. + +With respect to the character of the limestone, we have been perplexed +with its protean character, and, to avoid apparent contradictions, were +led, at first, to adopt distinctions of strata, which we very soon saw +were untenable. It is evidently the American equivalent for the +metalliferous limestone of England, and, as a formation, is of the +transition era. In a specimen of this rock, now before us, taken from a +fresh excavation at Potosi, forty feet below the surface of the soil, +and thirty-one feet below the original surface of the rock, the +structure is in part compact, and in part granular; the compact portions +having minute shining crystalline points, and the granular being without +any appearance of crystallization, but changing, in the width of about +forty lines, from compact granular to a dull arenaceous structure, quite +friable between the fingers. Part of the mass is vesicular, and the +vesicles are studded over with minute crystals of white opaque quartz. +The two extremes of this specimen have the appearance of totally +different formations, yet are both calcareous. By experiment, I found a +portion of the lower arenaceous part almost completely soluble, in the +cold, in nitro-sulphuric acid; and the actual residuum was, in part, +owing to a defect in trituration. + +Most of the limestone rock disclosed by excavation in the mines, is of +the granulated kind; while the structure of the rock above the surface, +where the strata are exposed to the weather, as in cliffs and +hill-sides, is of the solid, glistening, pseudo-compact variety. Both +these varieties, as shown in the specimen, are geologically identical, +notwithstanding their striking differences in hardness, structure, +colour, and particularly in crystalline lustre. This lustre is, however, +as shown by examination with the magnet, owing almost exclusively to +minute facets of calcareous crystals, which render it rather sparry than +crystalline. + +We have examined large portions of this rock, in all its varieties, for +organic remains; but have not succeeded in finding any well-characterized +species, although a further and fuller search might, and probably would, +disclose some species. We observed a single mass of the rock, an +imperfectly columniform structure, apparently organic. The rock is +rather vesicular than cavernous in its structure. The heavy deposit of +diluvium conceals the surface. But if the appearances in the +mine-diggings are to be received as general indicia, the surface of the +concealed rock is extremely rough and irregular, standing up, in the +mineral soil, in huge lumps, which renders the general depth at which it +may be reached, a question of great uncertainty. + +It has been intimated that the sparry-compact, and the dull granulated +varieties of the limestone, are often contiguous; and we have seen, by +the examination of a hard specimen, that they are geologically +identical as a formation. If this compact variety from the mines be +compared with the principal formation in the precipitous cliffs forming +the western banks of the Mississippi, in front of the mine tract, they +will be found to coincide in so many points, that these two localities +may be deemed parts of the same formation, and as being identical in +age. The principal differences consist in the occurrence of organic +remains in the strata along the banks of the Mississippi; a discovery +attributable to the more full exposure of these cliffs to observation. +There is also an apparent absence of the granulated, or sand-lime +variety. These two calcareous tracts are not, however, continuous, being +separated by a formation of granular quartz, or white crystalline +sandstone, which runs nearly parallel with the Mississippi for a +distance, a few miles west of it. This stratum of rock, which appears to +be rather a quartzose sandstone than a granular quartz, reappears west +of Potosi, in the barren area called the Pinery, and is also apparent at +several localities between the waters of the Maramec and the St. +Francis. + +At a point thirty miles west of the Mississippi, in about the latitude +of St. Genevieve, the primitive formation reveals itself in a series of +mountain masses of granite, which cover a comparatively extensive area. +This tract appears to be the nucleus of the country, rising through the +great secondary formations which intervene between the Alleghany and the +Rocky mountains. Its western limits have not yet been explored; but it +probably covers an area of not less than a hundred square miles. The +mines lie north of it. This granite is composed almost exclusively of +reddish feldspar and quartz. The proportion of mica is small, and this +mineral is often absent. It has been employed as a material for +millstones. It is connected with greenstone, which is sometimes +porphyritic. + +We have now three formations of rock, as constituting the mine series; +and it only remains to point out their relative position and extent, +with the best means at our command. This might seem to be a very simple +process, and would indeed be so, were it not that the area over which +the formations extend is extensive, and is covered with deep formations +of the diluvial and alluvial character, bearing a forest. The primitive +is immediately succeeded by the two latter. Mine à La Motte is situated +in the mineral diluvium, and is distant about two miles from the granite +on Blackford's fork. The first appearance of rock, in situ, north of +this point, is at Rock creek, a few miles distant, where the granular +quartzose sandstone appears. There is no further appearance of rock in +this direction for many miles. The white crystalline sand-caves of St. +Genevieve are seated in this formation. It is again disclosed on the +Platten creek, and in the elevations west of the Joachim creek, called +Fort Rock, and in the white sand-caves near Herculaneum. Whether it is +continued farther in the approach to the Maramec, cannot be stated; but +the line of country which is thus traversed by it, is probably sixty +miles. The only point where this rock appears on the banks of the +Mississippi, is in the range of the Cornice Rocks. + +Proceeding west across this formation, the mineral diluvium succeeds, +and conceals the rock formations; but, wherever they are disclosed by +the action of the streams, and by excavations, the metalliferous +limestone appears, which constitutes the lowest stratum yet found in the +mine region proper. But it is to be observed, that no excavations of any +considerable depth have been made; the rock has not been penetrated to +any great depth. The principal seat of the mines consists of the area +included within the circuits of the Grand river and Mineral Fork, +constituting the main tributaries of the Maramec. These streams extend +something in the shape of a horse-shoe around the mines. Immediately +west and south-west of this area, the white sandstone reappears, +extending south towards the granite. The position of the two formations +may be represented by a pair of expanded dividers, opening northward; +the two shanks of which denote the sandstone ridges, and the head, or +rivet, the primitive. + +The most valuable mineral products of the mines, in addition to lead, +are iron and salt; the latter of which is made, in limited quantities, +at a saline spring at Madansburgh, in the county of St. Genevieve. Other +indications of it exist at one or two localities in the township of +Bellevieu, and on the Maramec river, where efforts were formerly made to +manufacture salt. + +Iron-ores are found at numerous points; but no body of the ores of this +metal is known, comparable, in extent or value, to the locality of +Bellevieu, called the Iron Mountain. The ore exists, at this place, in a +very massive form. It is in the state of a micaceous oxide. It has been +tried in a slag furnace, and smelted easily, without a flux. The iron +obtained was of a very malleable quality, and spread freely under the +hammer. This locality is embraced by the waters of Cedar creek, which, +at the distance of seven miles, are stated to afford a water-power +adequate for the reduction and working of the ore. About five miles +distant, at Stout's settlement, occurs another body of this ore. + +Zinc is found, in the form of a sulphuret, in small quantities, at +several of the lead-mines in Washington county. A single mass of the +sulphuret of antimony has been discovered in the granitical district, +which affords also a locality of coarse graphite, and some other +minerals, which will be noticed in the sequel. + +A sulphur spring exists a few miles west of the Mississippi, in +Jefferson county. The water issues, in a copious stream, from an +aperture, situated near a cliff of the compact limestone. It is of a +bright, transparent quality, but indicates, by its taste, its +sulphureous impregnation, and deposits sulphur, in a whitish pulpy form, +on the pebble-stones and fallen vegetation of the brook which issues +from the spring. + +Topographically considered, the mine country is a hilly and uneven +tract, having a considerable elevation above the waters of the +Mississippi. It is well watered, with numerous springs, brooks, and +streams, and, from the prevalence of a firm diluvial soil, affords +facilities for roads. The climate is favorable to health. The manner in +which the smelting of the ores is performed, being in the open air, is +probably less injurious to those engaged in it, than if the furnaces +were enclosed with buildings. + +Some losses are sustained in the death of cattle, which die with a +disease called the mine sickness. Cows and horses, which are frequently +seen licking around old furnaces, often die without any apparent cause. +Cats and dogs are taken with violent fits, which never fail, in a short +time, to terminate their lives. This is usually attributed, by the +inhabitants, to the effects of sulphur, driven off from the ores in +smelting. It is more probable that it arises from the sulphurous acid in +its combination with barytes, which may operate as a poison to animals. +The sickness is wholly confined to quadrupeds.[16] + +The soil thrown out of the pits, at the abandoned mines, is found to +produce some plants, and even trees, which are not peculiar to the +surface. Such are the cotton-wood and the beech-grape, species which are +usually confined to the arenaceous alluvions of valleys. And we think +their growth here is not promoted by the mineral clay, which is +manifestly of a fertilizing property, when cast on the surface; but to +the disintegration of the sand-lime, producing a soil favorable to such +productions. The sensitive brier, observed in the mine district, is +evidently not of this class, as it is found remote from any mine +excavations. + + +SECTION III. + +LOCAL POSITION OF THE SEVERAL MINES. + +Since the first discovery of lead in this Territory, the number of mines +has been much increased, and hardly a season passes without some new +discovery. Every discovery of importance soon becomes the centre of +mining attraction. As the ore is found in the diluvial soil, it is +generally exhausted on reaching the solid rock; and after penetrating a +considerable area of the surface with any, or but partial success, the +locality is abandoned, and a new one sought. As the mines are worked +without capital, and the ore is dispersed over a wide area, the number +of localities is almost indefinite. Upwards of forty principal +sub-districts are known, most of which are appropriately denominated +_diggings_. The earliest discovery, at Mine à Burton, has been one of +the most valuable, and still continues to afford the ore. Mine à La +Motte has also proved an extensive deposit, and is still unexhausted. +New Diggings, Shibboleth, and Richwoods, are among the discoveries of +later date, which have yielded very large quantities of ore. But the +mode of mining in the diluvial soil must exhaust it of its mineral +contents, and direct miners, in after years, to the true position of the +ore, in the calcareous rock. So long as the search continues in the +soil, the business will partake of the uncertainty which now attends it, +and which renders it rather an object of temporary enterprise, than a +fixed employment. + +In the search for ore in the soil, scarcely any uniform principles can +be certainly relied on. Generally, rocky and barren localities are +avoided, and large and deep beds of the red metalliferous clay sought +for. The occurrence of crystallized quartz, or spars, on the surface, is +regarded only as a general indication, but cannot be depended on to +ensure local success. These masses are found to be distributed on and +through the top soil, as other debris, being sometimes contiguous to, +and sometimes remote from, ore. But they are never, so far as I have +observed, found with the ore. + +The method of searching for and raising the ore, is simple. Having fixed +on a spot for digging, the operator measures off about eight feet +square. A pick-axe and shovel are used for removing the earth. A +practised hand will pitch the earth from a depth of eight or ten feet. A +windlass and bucket are then placed over the pit, and the excavation +thus continued. Small detached masses of ore, or spars, are often found +in the soil, in approaching a larger body. The ore is the sulphuret, or +galena. It has a broad, glittering grain, and is readily divisible into +cubical fragments. It occurs in beds, or detached masses, which are +deposited horizontally in the soil. They are often accompanied by the +sulphate of barytes, or by calcareous spar; sometimes by blende, or iron +pyrites. The ore is often connected with the barytic spar, indicating +the latter to be a true matrix. The direction of these beds of ore +appears to be irregular. Veins of ore are confined to the rock. + +The variety of ore called _gravel ore_, differs from the preceding +chiefly by its marks of attrition, and connection with diluvial +pebble-stones. No spars have been noticed in these gravel-beds, although +it is probable that a careful search might detect them. + +The calcareous spar is most abundant in connection with rock diggings. +It is translucent, or transparent, and often exhibits the property of +double refraction. The miners, who employ their own conventional terms, +call this substance _glass tiff_, to distinguish it from the sulphate of +barytes, which is denominated _tiff_. Much of the radiated quartz of +this district bears the marks of diluvial action. It is not uncommon to +find masses of it, in which the angles of the crystals are quite +defaced. Veins of ore in the rock correspond generally, in their course, +I think, with the cardinal points, in the instances of their being +pursued horizontally. But they dip at various angles with the plain, or +sink perpendicularly into the rock. + +The horizontal position of the ore-beds in the red clay soil, may be +regarded as an evidence of its being a diluvial deposit. + +The metalliferous, red, marly clay, is, in fine, the most interesting +geological problem connected with the mines, and is calculated to show +us how little we know of the true eras of the diluvial deposits. After +every examination which we have been able to make, we are decidedly of +the opinion that this formation belongs to the diluvial, and not to the +alluvial era. It seems, indeed, to assert a claim to be considered, +among the western strata, as immediately succeeding the secondary. It +lies directly next to, and upon, the limestone rock. We have witnessed +the progress of an excavation on the public square of Potosi, in which +the soil was removed down to the rock, and a clean area of its surface +was exposed. There was no other stratum below it, and between the clay +and rock. And such we believe to be its general position. The radiated +quartz and pebble drift is above it, and, consequently, constitutes a +subsequent deposit. And hence it is that the numerous fragmentary masses +of the former, called _mineral blossom_, are no sure indications of the +subterraneous presence of ore. The gravel-ore and mixed diluvial gravel +is likewise a newer deposit, coinciding with the era of the primitive +and secondary boulders. No large primitive boulders, however, exist in +the mine district, if we except the angular fragments of granite, south +of St. Michael, which are, indeed, just without the lead-yielding area. +Pebbles of common quartz, granite, and greenstone, are found in the +surface soil, and are also to be observed, in accumulated masses, in the +beds of brooks. Occasionally an orbicular mass of these rocks, of the +size of a melon, is observed. It is evident, from these appearances, +that no formations of the primitive exist, towards the sources of the +Mississippi, for a great distance, as it is from this direction that +diluvial action appears to have been propagated. This clay soil is free +from boulders, and is of a homogeneous texture. It partakes, in its +qualities, so largely of marl, as to operate as a manure, on being +thrown out of the pits, and, after a few years, is covered with a very +rank growth of trees, vines, &c. This is a characteristic trait of the +locality of abandoned diggings. + +The following is a catalogue of the mines. It comprises those of most +note, which are now worked, or have been at some former period. + + 1. Mine à Burton. 24. Tapley's Diggings. + 2. Mine à Robino. 25. Lambert's Diggings. + 3. Mine à Martin. 26. Old Mines. + 4. New Diggings. 27. Mine Shibboleth. + 5. Citadel Diggings. 28. Elliot's Mines. + 6. Perry's Diggings. 29. Belle Fontaine. + 7. Hawkins's Mine. 30. Cannon's Mines. + 8. Rosebury's Mine. 31. Little Diggings. + 9. Austin's Shaft. 32. Becquet's Diggings. + 10. Jones's Shaft. 33. Mine Liberty. + 11. Rocky Diggings, (Prairie de Roche). 34. Renault's Mines. + 12. Gravelly Diggings. 35. Miller's Mine. + 13. Brushy-run Diggings. 36. Mine Silvers. + 14. Stricklin's Diggings. 37. Fourche à Courtois. + 15. Bibb's Diggings. 38. Pratt's Mine, Big river. + 16. Tebault's Diggings, (Pinery). 39. Lebaum's Mine, Richwoods. + 17. Mine Astraddle. 40. Mine à Joe, Flat river. + 18. Masson's Diggings, or Partney's. 41. Bryan's Mines, Hazel run. + 19. J. Scott's Diggings. 42. Dogget's Mine, Hazel run. + 20. T. Scott's Diggings. 43. Mine La Motte, St. Michael. + 21. Micheaux's Diggings. 44. Gray's Mine, Big river. + 22. Henry's Diggings. 45. M'Kain's Mine, Dry creek. + 23. Moreau's Diggings. + +The most noted mines are Mine à Burton, New Diggings, Shibboleth, +Richwoods, Old Mines, and the numerous mines on the waters of the +Mineral Fork of Grand river. Mine à La Motte, Mine à Joe, and Bryan's +Mines, are east and south of the principal group of mines in Washington +county, and at a considerable distance from them. A few general remarks +may be applied to all these mines. + +The mines possess one general character, although there are some +peculiarities which I shall hereafter mention. The ore is found in +detached pieces and solid masses, in beds, in red clay, accompanied by +sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, blende, iron pyrites, and quartz. +The ore is of that kind called, by mineralogists, lead-glance, or +galena, and is the sulphuret of lead, of chemistry. As it is dug up or +quarried from the adhering spar, it presents a very rich appearance. It +has a broad, glittering grain, of a lead-gray colour, which passes into +a bluish shade. The ore is easily broken by the blow of a hammer, and +may be pounded to a fine powder, still preserving its glittering +appearance. In breaking it, it always separates in cubes. Sometimes +detached lumps of four or five pounds weight, of a cubical form, are +found imbedded in the clay. Its primitive figure of crystallization is +particularly observable after the ore has been desulphurated by heat, +which, at the same time, increases its splendor, and renders the lines +of intersection between the facets more plainly discoverable. + +The clay, or red earth, in which the ore is found, appears to partake +largely of marl; and a difference of quality is to be observed at the +different mines. It all, however, operates more or less as a stimulant +to vegetation, on being thrown out of the pits. Mixed with the clay are +innumerable pieces of radiated quartz, very beautiful in appearance. +This forms the first stratum, and is about fourteen inches in depth; +then succeeds a stratum of red clay, four or five feet thick, and +sparingly mixed with substances of the same kind; after this, a layer of +gravel and rounded pebbles, of a silicious character, ensues; these are +about a foot in depth, and lead-ore, in small detached lumps, is then +found. This is of the description called gravel-ore, and no spars are +found accompanying it. The greatest proportion of lead-ore is, however, +found imbedded in marly clay, accompanied by the sulphate of barytes, +and resting on limestone rock. The rock is struck at a depth of from +fifteen to twenty feet, and is a metalliferous limestone, of a +semi-crystalline structure, lying in horizontal beds. It is traversed by +veins of lead-ore. Sometimes these expand in the shape of caves, where +masses of galena occur. + +The most valuable substance accompanying the lead-ore, is an ore of +zinc, which is found at several of the mines. Another substance, found +with the ore in considerable quantities, is the sulphate of barytes. +This is sometimes in immediate connection with the ore, but more +frequently in contiguous masses, in the clay. + +The sulphate of barytes, called _tiff_ by the lead-diggers here, is the +same substance called _cawk_ by English miners. It is very white, +opaque, and very heavy, and may be considered as the proper matrix of +the lead-ore. + +There are also found considerable quantities of calcareous spar, +particularly in the caves and veins in rock. This substance is often +observed in large orbicular or irregular masses, which have the +appearance of external attrition. On breaking them, they fall into +rhombs, which are very transparent and glittering; in color, they are +either white, or honey-yellow. + +Pyrites are common at the mines, sometimes crystallized in regular cubes +of a beautiful brass-yellow color, and, at others, found in tabular +masses, or mixed with blende, sulphate of barytes, or calcareous spar. +Quartz is found throughout the whole mine district, both on the surface +of the ground, and at all depths below. It is generally in the form of +tabular pieces, whose surfaces are thickly studded over with small +pyramids of transparent rock-crystal, and present an appearance of the +utmost beauty and splendor, looking like so many diamonds set over the +surface of white stone. These crystals are frequently grouped in the +form of a hemisphere, circular, or oviform, solitary or in clusters, +forming the different varieties of mamillary and radiated quartz, and, +when met with in their pristine beauty, present a very rich and +brilliant appearance. It has acquired the popular name of _blossom of +lead_, or mineral blossom, a term perfectly significant of its supposed +affinity. + +The exterior stratum of red clay, with its ores and minerals, will be +best understood by comparing it to a garment thrown over the +rock-formations of the country. The search for ore has been generally +confined to these clay diggings, which are pursued, very much, with the +apparatus of common well-digging. If, on reaching the rock, no vein of +ore is discovered, the work is generally dropped. + +On viewing the district on a large scale, this external clay stratum +appears to have originally derived its mineral contents from veins in +the calcareous, lead-yielding rock. This metalliferous rock has +evidently, in former ages, been scooped out by rivers and streams, +forming valleys and vast diluvial plateaux, where the abraded materials +were deposited. The original subterranean veins were concealed by these +geological changes. + +Some of the mines exhibit traits that may be mentioned. Mine La Motte is +one of the oldest mines in the Territory, having been discovered in +1720, by the person whose name it bears. The mines are very extensive, +and a large quantity of ore is annually raised. They are situated within +two miles of St. Michael, Madison county, and on the head-waters of the +river St. François. No spars are found accompanying the ore; iron pyrite +is occasionally met with, and plumbago is found in the vicinity. The +ore, which is less brilliant, and differs in other characters from any +other in the mine tract, is at the same time more refractory; in some +instances, the greatest difficulties have been experienced in the +smelting. Hence, an idea has originated that it is combined with other +metals; but no experiments, I believe, have been made to ascertain this +point. + +On a visit to these mines, I observed the inside of the ash-furnace +beautifully tinged with a blue color of considerable intensity. This +furnace is built of a white sandstone, which becomes vitrified on the +surface, forming glass. We are acquainted with no substance which will +communicate a blue color to glass in fusion but cobalt; hence, it is not +unreasonable to infer that this metal is volatilized during the +smelting, and is thus brought into contact with the liquefied surface of +the stone, imparting to it the color noticed. That the ores of La Motte +contain an unusual portion of sulphur, is very probable. I draw this +inference both from its refractory nature and dull appearance. Sulphur +always renders an ore refractory; for, when it is expelled by +torrefaction, the ore melts easily. Its dull aspect is not less +conclusive; for, the more an ore is roasted, and the more sulphur there +is driven off, the brighter it grows. This is evident to every smelter, +who cannot fail to observe the surprising brilliancy the ore assumes +after it has gone through the first operation in the log furnace. That +the difficulties daily experienced in smelting the La Motte ores are, +therefore, attributable to the extraordinary quantity of sulphur they +contain, is extremely probable; for, even if they were united with other +metals, with silver or with cobalt, these would not increase their +infusibility, except by the extra quantum of sulphur they brought with +them. At least, we have no facts to prove that a simple alloy does not +melt as easily as a pure metal, while there are many to show that alloys +are of the most easy fusibility. + +The quantity of ore raised at New Diggings has been very great, a +regular vein having been found; but they were abandoned several years +ago on account of the water, which rushed in with such rapidity, that to +remove it every morning with a common windlass and bucket was found a +work of such labor as to render the business unprofitable. The mines +were left with the most flattering veins of ore in view. The general +character of these mines is such as to justify the erection of a +steam-engine, and other works for prosecuting the business on an +extensive scale; and their revival at some future period may be +confidently looked for. + +Mine Renault is situated about six miles north-north-west of Mine à +Burton, in a very rocky part of the country, which affords some of the +most picturesque views of mountain scenery. The region is strongly +marked by mineral appearances, rendering it probable that other +substances of value, besides lead, may exist in that vicinity. Ores of +zinc are abundant at this mine, and a body of micaceous oxide of iron is +found in the neighborhood. + +Bryan's Mines are seated on Hazel run, and are among the most recent +discoveries of consequence. Near a million pounds of lead were made here +during the first year of the discovery. The mine is characterized by +yielding no heavy spar; sometimes a little calcareous spar is found, and +then adhering to the ores; a circumstance which I have nowhere else +observed. Much of the ore of these mines is found in tabular pieces, +which are sonorous in a considerable degree; the ore is brilliant, and +smelts readily, yielding the same as at Mine à Burton. + +Gray's Mine, situated on Big river, in the northern extremity of the +mine tract, is remarkable for a body of white clay, which was discovered +in searching for ore. In sinking several pits at this mine, a stratum of +clay of an unusual appearance was struck at the depth of from eight to +ten feet, and no ore was procured at those places; the diggings were +abandoned in consequence of the clay, which covers a considerable area +of ground on the banks of Big river. This mineral substance bears a +striking resemblance to specimens of a pyrous crucible clay. + +Elliott's Mines lie upon the Mineral Fork, and are characterized by the +abundance of pyrites, and the beauty of the calcareous spar found there. +Considerable quantities of blende were also met with, and strong +indications of the existence of copper are furnished. During the +remarkable earthquakes of 1812, a fine spring of water at the mouth of +the mines suddenly became warm and foul, and in a few days dried up +entirely, and no water has run there since. Illuminations in the +atmosphere (arising doubtless from phosphorus) are frequently observed +in this vicinity on the approach of night. + +At Mine à Burton, there is found adhering to the sides of the log-hearth +furnace, a grayish-white sublimated matter, of great weight, which I +take to be a sublimate of lead. It is considered as chiefly sulphur or +arsenic by the lead-smelters, and is thrown by as useless. It is found +at every furnace, and a very large quantity could be annually collected. +This induced me to undertake some experiments on the subject. I was +convinced, on reflection, that there could be no sulphur, at least no +considerable quantity of sulphur, in it, from the fact that all sulphur, +or other inflammable matter, expelled from the ore in the furnace, would +undergo immediate combustion. This is also observable in the color of +the flame while the ore is torrified. Indeed, every person conversant +with the nature of this substance must know that it cannot be otherwise. +The furnace is entirely open, and does not rise over seven or eight feet +in height; consequently, there is no opportunity for it to condense. +That the sulphuric acid is driven off, is undoubted; for, whenever +sulphur is burned, this acid is set at liberty; but it has no +opportunity for entering into a new combination within the body of a log +furnace. + +The idea of arsenic in the substance alluded to, is perfectly erroneous, +and has originated in an ignorance of the nature of the ores of these +mines. It is the _sulphuret of lead_, and not the _arseniate_. That +there is a small portion of silver and antimony in combination with the +ore, is probable; but they too are mineralized by sulphur. Reflecting on +this, I became convinced of the popular error, and, to ascertain the +point, made the following experiments: + +A. I took a lump of the sublimated matter, freed from adhering +impurities, and reduced it to the state of a fine powder by pulverizing +in an agate mortar, and trituration. Of this I mixed six parts with four +of pulverized borax, and a little charcoal, and submitted it to the +intense heat of a small chemical furnace. On removing the crucible, I +found a button of metallic lead in the bottom, weighing nearly four. + +B. Dissolved a quantity of the powdered sublimate in nitric acid; it +effected a ready solution, with violent effervescence. Poured on liquid +carbonate of potash until no more precipitate fell. I then collected the +precipitate, and washed away the superfluous alkali by clear water, and +dried it in the shade. The result was a very fine, and a very white +powder, of considerable weight. This was a carbonate of lead (white +lead). With a quantity of the white lead thus made, I mixed linseed +oil, and painted a board. The color was of the most delicate white, and +it gave a good body. On inspecting this board several months afterwards, +I found the color inclining a little to yellowish. But perhaps it stands +as well as any white lead would, prepared from litharge, by solution in +nitric or acetic acids, and precipitation by carbonated alkali. + +C. Mixed eight parts of sublimate with twelve of muriate of soda, and +fused in a crucible, with a tight cover, in a high heat. Result, a +yellow, hard, heavy, vitrified mass, resembling muriate of soda and +lead. + +M'Kain's Mine is situated on a small stream called Dry creek, running +into Big river not far from its junction with the Maramec. The mine is +worthy of remark only on account of a body of steel-grained lead-ore +found there. This ore is found to yield less lead in smelting than the +common broad-grained ore, and, as may be inferred from its texture, +contains silver. + +So little has been done, of late years, in mining in the rock, that the +character of the veins must be judged of from limited facts. But there +can be no question, from what is known, that the true scene of mining +operations is the rock. + +Along the west banks of the Mississippi, and also in some of the +interior valleys, we observe that the metal-bearing limestone rests on +crystalline sandstone. Both preserve a horizontal position, and both are +deposited, at the distance of about seventy miles south of Potosi, upon +pre-existing formations of sienitic granite, embracing hornblende rock; +some of the latter of which is porphyritic. + +These primitive formations mark the geography of the country at the +sources of the St. Francis. They form alpine peaks, through which the +river forces its way. Mine à La Motte is within two miles east of this +tract. These peaks have been raised to their present position without +disturbing the horizontality of the limestones and sandstones. Hence the +conclusion of their prior elevation. + +At a still further southern point, and before reaching the banks of the +St. Francis at Bettis's ferry, the horizontal rocks again appear. But, +in this instance, sienitic and granitic boulders are scattered over the +southern series of the calcareous strata, showing, with equal clearness, +that the geological era of the boulder stratum was posterior to the +deposition of the horizontal strata, and that the force which scattered +the boulder stratum was from the north. + + +SECTION IV. + +METHOD OF WORKING THE MINES. + +The method of raising the ores, and the processes pursued in separating +the metal, are, upon the whole, extremely simple. A pick-axe and shovel +are the only tools in use for removing the earth; and the drill, rammer, +and priming-rod, are added when it is necessary to blast. Having +determined on the spot for digging, the process commences by measuring +off a square of about eight feet, and throwing out the earth, spar, and +gravel, until the miner sinks beneath the depth he can throw the earth. +An expert hand will pitch his earth clear out of the pit from a depth of +ten, twelve, and even fifteen feet. At this depth a common windlass and +bucket are placed over the centre of the pit, and the digging continued +by drawing up the earth, spar, and ores, if any are found, in the manner +pursued in sinking a well. During his progress, the miner is notified of +his approach to a body of ore, by small detached lumps occasionally +found imbedded in the soil, within a few feet of the surface. Sometimes +lumps on the top of the ground determine on the place for digging. The +spar is also a sign by which he judges, as there is seldom a body of +spar found without lead-ore. There are also other signs by which an +experienced digger is advertised of his prospects, and encouraged to +proceed with cheerfulness in his work. These are, peculiar appearances +in the texture of the spar, and sometimes minute specks of ore scattered +through it, the changes in the color, and other qualities of the earth, +gravel, &c. If these appearances are promising, and bits of ore are +occasionally met with, he is encouraged to sink down a great depth; but +if they should fail, he is generally induced to abandon the pit, and +commence at another place. + +In searching for ore, the soil, the slope of the hills, spar, blossom, +trees, &c., are taken as guides, and some are obstinately attached to +these signs. Others, who have been fortunate in finding ore where these +appearances were least promising, wholly disregard them, and pay no +attention to rules. In general, there is a greater disposition to trust +to luck and chance, and stumble upon ore, than by attending to mineral +character, to be sure of success. As those who search by rules are +generally incapable of those minute remarks on the distinguishing +character and geological situation of minerals, which are necessary in +order to ensure success, it frequently happens that they meet with +disappointments. An incident of this kind is enough to perplex a man who +has not habituated himself to reasoning on the subject, and to weaken +his belief in the affinity of ores and stones. Such a man will not stop +to compare and reconcile facts, which are seemingly opposite, or to +investigate the nature of general principles. + +Hence miners exclaim on the uncertainty of finding ores by rules drawn +from the observations of science; that the strata of the earth are +irregular, and not to be depended upon like the rock formations in +Europe; and that, in fine, we have no guides by which its mineral +treasures are to be sought, and that, in so confused a soil, chance is +the best guide. Such a man is more ready to follow the mysterious +guidance of the divining-rod than the light of reason, and would be +easily persuaded that fortune is more surely the result of blind chance, +than of feasible schemes, well planned and well executed. + +There would be, nevertheless, some truth in the uncertainties and the +confusion complained of, were those circumstances among the observations +of scientific men. But it will be hazarding little to say, that when +such observations are made, there will be found as much regularity, +harmony, and order, in the superposition of the strata, as generally +exist. The few facts I have noticed, lead to this conclusion. + +Having raised a sufficient quantity of ore for smelting, the next +process consists in separating the spar, and cleaning the ore from all +extraneous matter. This is done by small picks, tapered down to such a +point that a careful hand may detach the smallest particle of adhering +spar. It is necessary that the ore should be well cleaned, as it would +otherwise prove refractory in smelting. If there be any lumps of +uncommon size, they are beaten smaller. The object is to bring the lumps +as near as may be to an uniform size, so that the heat may operate +equally in desulphurating the ore. It is desirable that the lumps should +be about the size of a man's two fists, or perhaps fifteen pounds' +weight; if too small, a difficulty and a waste is experienced in +smelting. In this state, the ore is conveyed to the primary furnace, +(see Plate I.) and piled on the logs prepared for its reception. When +the charge is put in, which may in a common way be about five thousand +pounds, it is surrounded by logs of wood, and covered over at the top, +the fire being lit up at the mouth below. A gentle warmth is created at +first, which is raised very gradually, and kept at this point for about +twelve hours, to allow the sulphur to dissipate; the heat is then +increased for the purpose of smelting the ore, and, in twelve hours +more, the operation is completed, and the lead obtained. Wood is +occasionally added as the process goes on, and there is a practical +nicety required in keeping the furnace in proper order, regulating the +draught of air, &c., so that some smelters are much more expert, and +thereby extract a greater quantity of lead from a like body of ore, than +others. This furnace is called the log furnace, and, so far as I know, +is peculiar to this country. It is of a very simple construction, +consisting of an inclined hearth, surrounded by walls on three sides, +open at top, and with an arch for the admission of air below. Upon the +whole, it appears well adapted to the present situation and +circumstances of the people. It is cheap, simple, may be built at almost +any place, and answers the purpose very well. A good furnace of this +kind may be built at a cost of from fifty to sixty dollars, every +expense considered; and one of the most considerable items in the sum +total is the bill of the mason, who cannot be hired, in this region, to +work for less than two dollars per day. + +Plate I., Figure 1. _A Perspective View of the Log Furnace._ + +a, the front wall, 8 feet long, 7 feet in height, and 2 feet in +thickness. + +b b, the side walls, 8 feet long, and 2 feet thick. + +c, the hearth, 2 feet wide, and 8 feet in length. + +d d, the ledges on each side of the hearth, 10 inches in height, and 1 +foot wide. These serve to elevate the logs above the hearth, at the same +time creating a draught for the air, and passage for the lead. + +e, the eye of the furnace, or arch, 2 feet across at bottom, with an +arch thrown in a half circle, or a flat stone laid across at the height +of the ledges. + +f, the iron ladle for dipping out the melted lead. + +g, the iron mould. Every bar of lead cast in this, is called a _pig_. + +h, the hole in the ground, for the reception of the lead as it runs from +the furnace. + +Figure 2, is a perspective view of the furnace from the back or open +part. The same letters used in Figure 1 apply to the same parts of the +furnace in this figure. + + Figure 3. _Ground Plan._ + + _a_, the eye or arch in front. + _b b_, the side walls. + _c_, the hearth. + _d d_, the ledges. + + [Illustration: _Log Hearth Furnace_ + No. 1. + _For Smelting Lead Ore_] + +The process of charging the furnace may be mentioned. Three large oak +logs, rolled in from the back side, and resting at each end on these +ledges, fill up the width of the furnace; small split logs are then set +up all around on the two sides and front; the ore is then piled on until +the furnace is full, and logs are then piled over it, beginning at the +back, and continuing over to the front, so that the ore is completely +surrounded by wood. This furnace is always built on the slope of a hill, +as represented in Plate I., Fig. 1; and the hearth is laid on an angle +of 45°, so that it falls four feet in a distance of eight. Two furnaces +of the size here described are generally built together, by which there +is a saving of the expense of one wall, and the work is rendered +stronger, one serving as a support to the other. Not only so, but the +same number of hands will keep a double-eyed furnace in blast, which are +required at a single one. It takes three hands, one to cart wood during +the day-time, and the other two to relieve each other alternately, every +twelve hours, at the furnace. When a charge is melted off, the furnace +is cooled, new logs and upright pieces put in, and the whole +operation begun anew. Twenty-four hours is the time generally allotted +for each smelting, but it often takes thirty-six; and when there is bad +wood and want of attention, it requires still longer, and indeed the +result is never so good. + +The ore is estimated to yield, in the large way, fifty per cent. the +first smelting. A considerable portion of what is put in, however, does +not become completely desulphurated, and is found in the bottom of the +furnace after cooling. This is chiefly the smallest lumps, which have +fallen through the apertures that burn between the logs, before they +were thoroughly roasted, and thus, getting out of the way of the heat, +lie entangled with the ashes. Some lumps, which are too large, also +escape complete desulphuration, and either remain unmelted, or else, +when the fire is raised, melt altogether into a kind of slag, and +produce little or no metallic lead. This constitutes what are called the +lead-ashes. The larger pieces, consisting of ore but partially +desulphurated, are carefully picked out from among the ashes, and added +at the next smelting in the log furnace; while the remainder is thrown +by in heaps for further examination. + +The lead-ashes are still rich in lead, and, when a sufficient quantity +has accumulated from repeated smeltings, it is taken off to a proper +place contrived for the purpose, and separated from the cinders, +wood-ashes, and other adhering impurities. This is done by washing the +whole in _buddles_, one set below another, in the manner of the potter, +when it is necessary to _search_ his clays. The ashes, which consist of +clotted lumps of a moderate hardness, are first pounded to a gross +powder, and then introduced into the water through a sieve. The +wood-ashes and other impurities, being lighter, swim on the top, and, by +letting off the water, are thus carried away. Fresh water is added, the +ashes briskly stirred with a hoe, and the water again let off, carrying +a further portion of impurity with it. By repeating this operation +several times, the lead-ashes are brought to the required degree of +purity. Thus washed, they are carried to a furnace of a different +construction, called the ash furnace (see Plate II.), and undergo a +second smelting. + + +Plate II., Figure 1. _A Perspective View of the Ash Furnace._ + +_a_, the ash-pit, 2 feet wide, 6 feet long, and 20 inches in height. + +_b_, the mouth of the fire-arch, a foot square. + +_c_, the mouth of the flue, where the charge is put in. + +_d_, the iron pot for the lead to flow in, when the furnace is tapped. + +Figure 2, is a longitudinal section through the furnace, at right angles +with the front, showing the curve of the arch, flue, &c. + +_a_, the ash-pit. + +_b_, the grates, 10 inches square, and 3 feet long; these are pieces of +hewn stone. + +_c_, the mouth of the fire-arch. + +_d_, the _santee_, consisting of two stones, 3 feet long, and 3 feet 6 +inches wide, with a thickness of 6 or 7 inches. They reach from the +bottom of the ash-pit to a foot above the basin-stone, the interstice +between them being rammed full of clay, and the whole measuring 18 +inches across. (This keeps the lead, slag, &c., from running into the +fire-arch, and is an important part of the furnace, requiring +considerable skill and accuracy in the construction.) + +_e_, the basin-stone, 4 feet square, and 1 foot thick. + +_f_, the flue, or throat, 10 feet long, 22 inches wide, and 11 inches in +height. This must be continued a foot and a half over the mouth of the +flue, or apron, making the whole length eleven and a half feet; some +prefer the flue twelve and a half feet. + +_g_, the mouth of the flue or apron, where the furnace is charged; this +flares from 22 inches to 3 feet, in a distance of 3 feet, (as shown in +Fig. 3.) + +_h_, the fire-arch, 3 feet high in the centre, 18 inches high where the +arch begins to spring, and the same over the centre of the basin-stone. + + +Figure 3. _Ground Plan._ + +From _a_ to _b_, 8 feet; from _b_ to _c_, 8 feet 6 inches; from _a_ to +_d_, 8 feet 6 inches; from _e_ to _f_, 6 feet; from _e_ to _g_, 13 feet. + +_h_, the basin, 4 feet long, and 22 inches wide, except in the centre, +where it is 24 inches wide. + +_i_, the flue. + +_k_, the mouth of the flue, or apron, 3 feet at the front, and 22 inches +in the rear. + +_l_, the santee. + +_m_, the fire-arch, with grates at bottom. (This is 22 inches wide at +each end, 24 inches in the centre, and 5 feet long from the inside of +its mouth to the santee.) + +_n_, the mouth of the fire-arch. + +_o_, the iron pot for the lead to flow into, set in the curve made in +the wall for convenience of tapping. + +_p_, the curve in the wall for drawing off the slag. + +Figure 4, is a perspective view of the mouth of the flue where the +furnace is charged. + +From _a_ to _b_, 6 feet; from _a_ to _c_, 5 feet; from _a_ to _d_, 1 +foot. + +_c_, the mouth of the flue, 22 inches wide, and 11 high. (This flares +out to 3 feet in the distance of 3 feet, the flue covering half of it, +so that the heat may be thrown down on the ashes.) + + [Illustration: _Ash Furnace_ + No. 2 + _For Smelting Lead Ashes. Missouri._ + Fig. I. Fig. II. Fig. III. Fig. IV.] + +One of the principal points to be attended to in building an ash-furnace +is the elevation of the flue. It should rise 5½ feet in 10; some +prefer 5½ in 11. If the ascent be too steep, the ore will run down +into the basin before it gets hot, which is detrimental. If the +ascent be too low, the bottom of the flue next to the basin will soon be +eaten away by the heat, and thus in a short time undermine and destroy +the furnace. + +The flux employed is also a matter of moment. Sand, and pulverized +flinty gravel, are mixed with the lead-ashes before smelting. The object +of this is to promote the vitrification of the slag, which would +otherwise remain stiff; the particles of revived lead would not sink +through to the bottom, but remain entangled with it, and thus be lost. +Lime is also sometimes employed for the same purpose; and indeed any +earth would operate as a flux to the scoriaceous part of the lead-ashes, +if added in a due proportion, particularly the alkaline earths. Lime and +barytes, both of which are afforded in plenty at the mines, might +therefore be advantageously employed, when no sand or easy-melting +silicious gravel could be obtained. Good fusible sands are readily +attacked and liquefied by submitting to heat with oxides of lead, +alkaline salts, or any other alkaline or metallic flux; hence their +extreme utility in glass, enamels, and all other vitrescent mixtures. +When, therefore, silicious sand can be obtained, it will be found a more +powerful flux to lead-ashes than either gravel, lime, spars, or any +other substance, if we except the fluor spar. This is probably better +adapted as a flux than even silicious sands; but it has not yet been +brought to light at the lead-mines. Perhaps the lower strata of the +earth may afford it. It is found at a lead-mine near Cave-in-Rock, on +the right bank of the Ohio river, in the State of Illinois, and, with +the exception of a little found at Northampton, Massachusetts, is the +only place where this rare, useful, and beautiful mineral, occurs in the +United States.[17] + +The situation for an ash-furnace is always chosen on the declivity of a +hill, as represented in the plate. The inside work, or lining, consists +of slabs of hewn limestone, laid in clay-mortar, and backed by solid +masonry. Although a stone less adapted for furnaces could hardly be +found, yet it is made here to answer the purpose, and is an evidence of +the ingenuity of men in making a bad material answer when a good one +cannot be found. No sandstone or freestone, of that refractory kind +used in glass and iron furnaces, is afforded in this vicinity; and the +smelters seem to prefer rebuilding their furnaces often, to incurring +the expense of transporting good infusible sandstones from a distance. +It is not perhaps duly considered, that a furnace built of refractory +materials, although expensive in the erection, would be sufficiently +durable to warrant that expense, and outlast several built of limestone, +which burn out every blast, and have to be rebuilt from the foundation. + +Limestone is a combination of the pure earth _lime_ with _carbonic acid_ +and _water_; it is a carbonate of lime. When subjected to a red heat, it +parts with its carbonic acid and water, and, if the operation be +continued long enough, is converted into quicklime. This effect, +therefore, takes place as well in the lead-furnace as in the limekiln, +and with this difference only--that in the former it is laid in a wall, +protected in some degree from the heat, and will not part with its +carbonic acid readily; while in the latter it is broken into +comparatively small lumps, exposed to the heat on all sides, and is +easily and readily converted into quicklime. + +Nevertheless, although this calcination is constantly progressing, an +ash-furnace will last from fifteen to twenty days, according to the +skill which has been displayed in its construction, and the particular +quality of the stone employed. When the stone partakes of clay +(alumina), it runs into a variety of argillaceous limestone, and is +manifestly better adapted to resist the effects of fire. Whenever the +furnace is cooled, so that the stone can attract moisture from the +atmosphere, it falls into quicklime. This change does not, however, take +place rapidly; for the burning has seldom been uniform, and the stones +have either been over-burned, or not burned enough; so that it requires +several days, and even weeks, to assume the powdery state. + +An ash-furnace, built of limestone, is estimated to cost a hundred +dollars. This includes every expense, and such a furnace lasts during +one blast, say fifteen or twenty days; perhaps, with great care, it will +run a month. During this time, from sixty to ninety thousand pounds of +lead ought to be made. + +When a furnace is completed, it requires several days to dry it, and +bring it to the proper state for smelting. About ten days are usually +spent in this. The fire is begun very moderately at first, being only +the warmth of a hot smoke, and is kept so for the first five days, by +which means the moisture of the mortar and stone is gradually expelled, +and without any danger of cracking the stone, or otherwise injuring the +furnace. It is then raised a little every day until the furnace is +brought up to a full red heat, when it is ready for the first charge of +ashes. + +The operation begins by shovelling a layer of ashes on the mouth of the +flue, then adding a thin layer of sand or flinty gravel as a flux, and +then more ashes; and so adding gravel and ashes alternately, until the +required quantity is shovelled up. This is suffered to lie here and grow +thoroughly hot before it is shoved down the flue into the basin; for, +if introduced cold, it would check the heat too suddenly, and prove +injurious in the result. When hot, the charge is shoved down the flue +with a long-handled iron hoe, and another portion of ashes and gravel +immediately shovelled on the mouth, suffered to heat, and then pushed +down as before. This operation of heating and charging is continued +until the furnace has a full charge, which may require about six hours, +and in two hours more the furnace is ready for tapping. The slag, which +is in a very fluid state on the top of the lead, is first drawn off, and +the aperture closed up with stone and mortar. The smelter then goes to +the opposite side of the furnace, and prepares for drawing off the lead +by driving a stout sharp pointed iron bar through the side of the +furnace, at a particular place contrived for this purpose. On removing +the bar, the metallic lead flows out into a large iron pot set in the +ground, and accompanied by a considerable quantity of a semi-metallic +substance, called _zane_. This is lead not perfectly revived, being +combined with some earthy particles, and oxide of lead. The zane +occupies the top of the pot, and is first ladled out into hemispherical +holes dug in the clay near by. This substance is of the consistence of +the prepared sand used by brass-founders when hot, but acquires +considerable solidity when cold. The metallic lead is then ladled into +iron moulds of about eighteen inches in length, and yielding a pig of +lead of about fifty pounds each. The quantity of zane made at each +tapping is about equal to that of metallic lead. This is afterwards +taken to the log furnace, and readily converted into lead. The lead made +at the ash-furnace is not thought to be of so pure a quality as that of +the first smelting made at the log furnace. It undoubtedly contains any +other metals that may be combined with the ore, and is therefore more +refractory. Such lead is thought to be a little harder, and some pretend +to discover a lighter color. + +The lead-ashes are reckoned to yield fifteen per cent. of lead (zane and +all), which, added to the first smelting, makes an average product of +sixty-five per cent. This estimate will hold good uniformly, when the +ores have been properly dressed, and the smelting well performed. Any +spar adhering to the ore, renders it refractory; blende and pyrites have +the same effect. The latter is particularly injurious, as it consists +chiefly of sulphur; a substance known to render all ores refractory. + +The slag created by the ash-furnace is a heavy, black, glassy substance, +well melted, and still containing a portion of lead. Some attempts have +been made to obtain a further portion of lead from it, by smelting with +charcoal in a blast-furnace; but the undertaking has not been attended +with complete success, and is not generally thought to warrant the +expense. The per centage of lead recovered from the slag is not +estimated at over ten, and, with the utmost success, cannot be reckoned +to exceed twelve. + +Some practical and miscellaneous observations may here be added. +Metallic lead in the pig is now (Feb. 1819) worth $4 per cwt. at the +mines. It sells for $4 50 on the banks of the Mississippi, at St. +Genevieve and Herculaneum; for $5 50 in New Orleans; and is quoted at $6 +in Philadelphia. This is lower than has ever been known before, (except +at one period,) and a consequent depression in the mining business is +felt. There is a governmental duty of one cent per pound on all bar and +pig lead imported into the United States; but it does not amount to a +prohibition of foreign lead from our markets. Perhaps such a prohibition +might be deemed expedient. It is what the lead-smelters here call for; +and certainly the resources of this country are very ample, not only for +supplying the domestic consumption, but for exportation. + +Those who dig the ore do not always smelt it. The merchants are +generally the smelters, and either employ their own slaves in raising +the ore, or pay a stipulated price per cwt. to those who choose to dig. +For every hundred pounds of ore, properly cleaned, the digger receives +two dollars. He works on his own account, and runs the risk of finding +ore. It is estimated that an ordinary hand will raise a hundredweight +per day, on an average of a year together. This, however, depends much +upon luck; sometimes a vast body is fallen upon, with a few hours' +labor; at others, many weeks are spent without finding any. He who +perseveres will, however, generally succeed; and the labor bestowed upon +the most unpromising mine, is never wholly lost. The above average has +been made by those long conversant with the business, and upon a full +consideration of all risks. + +Custom has established a number of laws among the miners, with regard to +digging, which have a tendency to prevent disputes. Whenever a discovery +is made, the person making it is entitled to claim the ground for +twenty-five feet in every direction from his pit, giving him fifty feet +square. Other diggers are each entitled to twelve feet square, which is +just enough to sink a pit, and afford room for throwing out the earth. +Each one measures and stakes off his ground, and, though he should not +begin to work for several days afterwards, no person will intrude upon +it. On this spot he digs down, but is not allowed to run drifts +horizontally, so as to break into or undermine the pits of others. If +appearances are unpromising, or he strikes the rock, and chooses to +abandon his pit, he can go on any unoccupied ground, and, observing the +same precautions, begin anew. In such a case, the abandoned pit may be +occupied by any other person; and sometimes large bodies of ore are +found by the second occupant, by a little work, which would have richly +rewarded the labors of the first, had he persevered. + +In digging down from fifteen to twenty feet, the rock is generally +struck; and as the signs of ore frequently give out on coming to the +rock, many of the pits are carried no further. This rock is invariably +limestone, though there are many varieties of it, the texture varying +from very hard and compact, to soft and friable. The former is +considered by the diggers as a flinty stone; the latter is called +rotten limestone; and, from its crumbling between the fingers, and +falling into grains, there is a variety of it called sandstone. It is +all, however, a calcareous carbonate, will burn into quicklime, and, as +I find on experiment, is completely soluble in nitric acid. As no +remains or impressions of shells, animalculæ, or other traces of animal +life, are to be found in it, I conclude it to be what geologists term +metalliferous limestone; a conclusion which is strengthened by its +semi-crystalline fracture. It exhibits regular stratification, being +always found in horizontal masses. How far this formation extends, it +would be difficult to determine; but, so far as my observation goes, it +is invariably the basis on which the mineral soil at Mine à Burton, and +the numerous mines in its vicinity, reposes. It is overlaid by secondary +limestone in various places on the banks of the Mississippi, between +Cape Girardeau and St. Louis. It is also seen passing into a variety of +secondary marble, in several localities. I have seen no specimens of +this mineral, however, which can be considered as a valuable material in +sculpture. + +I have already mentioned the per centage of lead obtained by smelting in +the large way. I shall here add the result of an assay made on the ore. +One hundred parts of ore yielded as follows: + + Metallic lead 82 + Sulphur driven off by torrefaction 11 + Earthy matter, and further portion of sulphur, + either combined with the scoria, or driven off + by heat 7 by estimation. + --- + 100 + +The ore experimented upon was the common ore of Mine à Burton, (galena.) +I took a lump of the purest ore, completely freed from all sparry and +other extraneous matter, beat it into a very gross powder, and roasted +for an hour and a half in a moderate heat, with frequent stirring. On +weighing the mass, it had lost 11 of sulphur. I now beat this to a very +fine powder, and treated it with a strong flux of nitre and dry +carbonate of soda, adding some iron filings to absorb the last portions +of sulphur. The whole was enclosed in a good Hessian crucible, +previously smeared with charcoal, with a luted cover, and exposed for +twenty minutes to the high heat of a small chemical blast-furnace. + +The richest species of galena, of which we have any account, is that of +Durham, England. An analysis of a specimen of this ore by Dr. Thompson, +gave the following result: + + Lead 85 13 + Sulphur 13 02 + Oxide of iron 0 5 + ----- + 98 65 + +Many of the English, and nearly all the German ores, are, however, much +poorer. Of five several experiments made by Vauquelin on ores from +different mines in Germany, sixty-five per cent. of lead was the +richest, and all were united with uncommon portions of carbonated lime +and silex. + +The button of metallic lead found at the bottom of the crucible in +chemical assays, contains also the silver, and other metals, if any +should be present in the ore. So also, in smelting in the large way, the +metallic lead is always united with the other metals. When ores of lead +contain any considerable portion of silver, they assume a fine steel +grain; and the crystals, which are smaller than in common galena, +oftener affect the octahedral, than the cubical figure. They are also +harder to melt; and the lead obtained is not of so soft and malleable a +nature as that procured from the broad-grained, easy-melting ore. + +The proportion of silver in lead varies greatly. It is sometimes found +to yield as high as twelve per cent., and is then called argentiferous +lead-glance; but, in the poorest ores, it does not yield more than one +ounce out of three hundred. To separate the silver from the lead, a +process is pursued called the refining of lead, or cupellation. This is +effected by exposing the lead to a moderate heat in a cupel, and +removing the oxide as soon as it forms on the surface, until the whole +is calcined, leaving the silver in the bottom of the cupel. The lead in +this process is converted into litharge, the well-known substance of +commerce; and the silver is afterwards refined by a second process, in +which the last portions of lead are entirely got rid of. This process is +known at the German refineries under the name of _silber brennen_, +burning silver. + +The rationale of cupellation is simply this. Lead on exposure to heat, +with access of air, is covered by a thin pellicle or scum, called an +oxide; and by removing this, another is formed; and so, by continuing to +take off the oxide, the whole quantity of lead is converted into an +oxide. It is called an oxide, because it is a combination of lead with +oxygen (one of the principles of air and of water.) By this combination, +an increase of weight takes place, so that a hundred pounds of bar-lead, +converted into the state of an oxide, will weigh as much over a hundred, +as the weight of the oxygen which it has attracted from the atmosphere. +Silver, however, on being exposed to heat in the same situation, cannot +be converted into an oxide; it has no attractive power for oxygen. +Hence, when this metal is contained in a bar of lead, the lead only is +oxygenated on exposure in a cupel; whilst the silver remains unaltered, +but constantly concentrating and sinking, till the lead is all calcined. +This is known, to a practised eye, by the increased splendor assumed by +the metal. + +I do not think the ore of Mine à Burton contains a sufficient quantity +of silver to render the separation an object. This is to be inferred +from its mineralogical character, from the mathematical figure and size +of the crystal, its color, splendor, &c. The territory is not, however, +it is believed, deficient in ores which are valuable for the silver they +contain. The head of White river, the Arkansas, the Maramec, and +Strawberry rivers, all afford ores of lead, the appearance of which +leads us to conclude they may yield silver in considerable quantity. + + +SECTION V. + +ANNUAL PRODUCT, AND NUMBER OF HANDS EMPLOYED. + +On this head, it is very difficult to procure proper information. The +desultory manner in which the mines have been wrought, and the imperfect +method in which accounts have been kept, when kept at all, with other +circumstances, which are in some measure incidental to the operations of +mining in a new country, oppose so many obstacles in the way of +obtaining the desired information, that I find it impossible to present +a correct statement, from authentic sources, of the annual product of +the mines for any series of years. When Louisiana was first occupied by +the United States, Mine à Burton and Mine La Motte were the principal +mines wrought; but the few Americans who had emigrated into the +territory, under the Spanish government, were fully aware of the +advantages to be derived from the smelting of lead, and, united to the +emigrant population which shortly succeeded, made many new discoveries, +and the business was prosecuted with increased vigor, and to a much +greater extent. The interior parts of the country, and such as had +before been deemed dangerous on account of the Indians, were now eagerly +explored; and the fortunate discovery of several immense bodies of ore +near the surface of the ground, whereby the discoverers enriched +themselves by a few days' labor, had a tendency greatly to increase the +fame of the mines, and the number of miners. But, as generally happens +in new countries, among the number of emigrants were several desperate +adventurers, and men of the most abandoned character. Hence, the mines +soon became the scene of every disorder, depravity, and crime, and a +common rendezvous for renegadoes of all parts. It is by such persons +that many of the mines were discovered, and several of them wrought; and +it is, therefore, no subject of surprise, that, on inquiry, no accounts +of the quantity of lead made, and the number of hands employed, are to +be found. + +To secure the public interest, and remedy, in some degree, the +irregularities practised at the mines, a law was passed in Congress, a +few years after the cession of Louisiana, reserving all lead-mines, +salt-springs, &c., which should be discovered on the public lands, +subsequent to that period; and the Governor of the Territory was, at the +same time, authorized to grant leases to discoverers for three years. +The great defect of that law appears always to have been, that a +specific agent was not at the same time authorized to be appointed for +the general superintendence, inspection, and management of mines--an +office which, from its nature, can never be properly incorporated with +that of the territorial executive, and which, with every inclination, it +is presumed his other avocations would prevent him from discharging +either with usefulness to the public, or satisfaction to himself. But, +whatever be the defect of the law, certainly the advantages which the +government proposed to derive from it have not accrued. No revenue, it +is understood, has yet been realized under it, and we are now as much at +a loss how to arrive at a true statement of the mineral product of +Missouri, as if the mines had never been a subject of governmental +legislation. + +When a discovery of lead has been made, the miners from the neighboring +country have flocked to it, and commenced digging as usual, no one +troubling himself about a lease; and thus the provisions of the act have +been in a great measure disregarded. Men of respectability, and of +sufficient capital to carry on mining in a systematic manner, have, it +is believed, been frequently deterred from making applications for +leases, from the short period for which only they can be granted. It +would not warrant the expense of sinking shafts, erecting permanent +furnaces, galleries, and other works necessary for prosecuting the +business to advantage; for, no sooner would such works be erected, and +the mines begin to be effectually wrought, than the expiration of the +lease would throw them into the hands of some more successful applicant. + +But, although we have no data to form an authenticated schedule of the +annual product of the mines for any required number of years, there is +something to be obtained by collecting and comparing facts, detached and +scanty as they are. Something also is to be acquired by consulting the +books which have been kept of late years in the warehouses on the +Mississippi, where the lead is sent for exportation, and some +information is also to be gleaned from various other sources. It is from +information thus obtained that I proceed to an enumeration of the +products of the different mines, and the number of persons to whom they +furnish employment and support, satisfied, at the same time, that +although the information may not be all that could be desired, yet it is +all which, without the most extraordinary exertions, could be obtained. + +The amount of crude ore delivered at the furnaces of Mine Shibboleth, +during one of its most productive years (1811), was something rising of +5,000,000 of pounds. The ore of this mine is estimated to yield, in the +large way, from 60 to 70 per cent., reckoned at 62½, which is +probably a fair average. The product of the mine in 1811 was 3,125,000 +pounds. Shibboleth is, however, one of the richest mines in the +Territory, and this is the product of one of those years in which it was +most profitably worked. It was then a new discovery, vast bodies of ore +were found near the surface, and the number of miners drawn together by +the fame of its riches was uncommonly great. It has since declined, +although the ore is still constantly found; and I am informed by Colonel +Smith, the present proprietor, that the product this year (1819) will be +about one million of pounds. + +The number of persons employed in digging lead at Mine à Burton has been +constantly lessening for the last four or five years; and this +celebrated mine, which has been worked without interruption for more +than forty years, and is stated to have yielded as high as three +millions per annum, is manifestly in a state of decline. During the last +summer (1818), the greater part of which I resided at that place, there +were not more than thirty miners employed; and the total product of the +different pits, shafts, and diggings, composing this mine, did not +exceed half a million of pounds. Of this quantity, Messrs. Samuel Perry +& Co. were the manufacturers of about 300,000 lbs. They contemplate +realizing an increased quantity during the present year. John Rice +Jones, Esq., is also engaged in penetrating the rock in search of ore, +with the most flattering prospects, and is determined, as he informs me, +to sink through the upper stratum of limestone, and ascertain the +character of the succeeding formations. It is highly probable, reasoning +from geognostic relations, that the lower formations will prove +metalliferous, yielding both lead and copper; a discovery which would +form a new era in the history of those mines. The present mode of +promiscuous digging on the surface would then be abandoned, and people +made to see and to realize the advantages of the only system of mining +which can be permanently, uniformly, and successfully pursued, viz., by +penetrating into the bowels of the earth. + +Several other persons of intelligence and capital are also engaged in +mining at this place, and it is probable that the total amount of lead +manufactured at this mine during the year 1819 will fall little short of +one million of pounds. + +It is not to be inferred, however, that because the number of miners at +Potosi has decreased, the mines are exhausted. On the contrary, there is +reason to conclude, as already mentioned, that the principal bodies of +ore have not yet been discovered, and that it is destined to become the +seat of the most extensive and important mining operations. The ore +heretofore raised at these mines has been chiefly found in the stratum +of earth which forms the surface of that country, and is bottomed on the +limestone. This stratum consists of a stiff red clay, passing in some +places into marl, and in others partaking more of the silicious +character forming a loam, and imbedding the ores of lead, accompanied by +the various mineralogical species before mentioned. These minerals are +often of a very attractive character for cabinets. + +The depth of this soil is sometimes thirty feet; and in this the +diggings have been chiefly done, requiring no other machinery than is +used in well-digging; and the stratum of rock has generally put a stop +to the progress of the miner, although veins of ore penetrating it have +often invited him in the pursuit. But it requires different tools, +machinery, and works, for mining in rock; the process is also more +tedious and expensive, and is considered especially so by those who have +been accustomed from their youth to find bodies of ore by a few days' +digging in the earth, and who, if they should work a fortnight at one +place, and not fall upon a bed of ore, would go away quite disheartened. +The principal search has therefore been made in the sub-stratum of clay, +where large bodies of ore are sometimes found by a day's, and sometimes +by an hour's work. Hence, in the neighborhood of Potosi, the ground has +been pretty well explored, and more search and labor is required to find +it than in other and more distant places, where new mines continue +annually to be discovered. But, with the exception of Austin's shaft, +who sunk eighty feet, and the mines opened by Jones, the rock at this +mine remains unpenetrated. Austin found large quantities of ore filling +crevices in the rock, and the appearances were flattering when the last +work was done. In sinking down, a change in the rock was experienced, +passing from compact solid gray limestone, by several gradations, into a +loose granulated limestone, very friable, and easily reduced to grains. +This stone was in some instances completely disintegrated, forming a +calcareous sand; and the most compact bodies of it, on a few weeks' +exposure at the mouth of the shaft, fall into grains. These grains are, +however, wholly calcareous, and readily soluble in nitric and muriatic +acids. The portion which I submitted to experiment was taken up +completely, nor was any sediment deposited by many months' standing. On +going deeper, the rock again graduated into a compact limestone, very +hard, and of a bluish-gray color, in which were frequently found small +cavities studded over with minute pyramids of limpid quartz. These +variations in the structure of the earth and rock in that place, are +still observable by the stones, spars, and other minerals, lying around +the mouths of the mines; and, upon the whole, the appearances are such +as to justify a conclusion that the lower strata of rocks at Potosi, and +the numerous mines in its vicinity, are of a highly metalliferous +character, and such as to warrant the expenditures incident to a search. + +From a statement lately drawn up, and certified by the proprietors of +warehouses at Herculaneum, it appears that the total quantity of pig and +bar lead, and shot, exported from that place, from January 1, 1817, to +June 1, 1818, a period of eighteen months, was 3,194,249 pounds. +Herculaneum may be considered the depôt for the lead of Mine Shibboleth, +Richwoods, Bellefontaine, a portion of the lead of Mine à Burton and +Potosi, and a few other mines in that neighbourhood. Perhaps nearly or +quite half of the whole quantity of lead yearly smelted at the Missouri +mines, is shipped from this place. Here then is an average product of +2,395,667 pounds per annum, for the years 1817 and 1818, from those +mines which send their lead to Herculaneum. + +Assuming the ground that these mines produce only half of what is +annually made at the whole number of mines, which I conclude may be a +true estimate, we shall arrive at the conclusion, that the annual +product of the Missouri mines for those years was four millions, seven +hundred and ninety-one thousand, three hundred and thirty-four pounds. +This, estimated at the present price of four cents per pound, gives us a +sum of one hundred and ninety-one thousand, six hundred and fifty-three +dollars. This is the produce of one year; and supposing the mines to +have produced the same average quantity during every year since they +have been in possession of the United States, we have a sum of three +millions, sixty-six thousand, four hundred and forty-eight dollars; +which is more than the original cost of Louisiana, as purchased from +France during the administration of President Jefferson. Let those who +have any doubts of the value of our mines, reflect upon this, and +consider that it was the product of a year when the mines were in a +manifest state of decline, and wrought wholly by individuals, with a +foreign competition to oppose, and without the benefits resulting from a +systematic organization of the mining interest. + +Nearly all the lead smelted at the Missouri mines is transported in +carts and wagons from the interior to St. Genevieve and Herculaneum. As +it must necessarily be deposited for storage at those places, it was +naturally expected that authentic accounts of the lead manufactured in +the Territory for many years, might be obtained on application. But in +this, I experienced some degree of disappointment. At St. Genevieve, +although a warehouse has been kept at the landing for many years, the +lead sent to town has not all been stored. From the earliest time, and +before the establishment of a warehouse by Mr. Janies, the French +inhabitants of St. Genevieve had all been more or less engaged in the +storage, purchase, and traffic of lead. Every dwelling-house thus became +a storehouse for lead, and, in these cases, no regular accounts were +kept of the quantities received or delivered. The same practice has, in +some measure, continued since, so that it is impossible to obtain, with +any precision, the amount shipped from this place. At Herculaneum, a +warehouse has been kept since the year 1816; and on application to Mr. +Elias Bates, the proprietor, he was so obliging as to allow me +permission to peruse his book of receipts, for the purpose of making +extracts. The following details embrace the receipts of lead at that +place for a period of two years and eleven months, ending May 18, 1819. + +I. _A Series of Receipts, from June 16, 1816, to December 31 of the same +year, being a period of six months and fourteen days._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts 52,781 lbs. + 2. 57,097 + 3. 55,039 + 4. 58,892 + 5. 50,639 + 6. 63,787 + 7. 55,663 + 8. 47,287 + -------- + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 322,134 + -------- + Total. 763,319 + +II. _A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1816, to 31st Dec. 1817._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts. 12,375 lbs. + 2. 51,521 + 3. 49,023 + 4. 60,576 + 5. 54,242 + 6. 47,321 + 7. 60,956 + 8. 51,420 + 9. 43,774 + 10. 42,694 + 11. 47,958 + 12. 15,482 + ------- + 537,343 + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 501,903 + --------- + Total 1,039,246 + +III. _A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1817, to 31st Dec. 1818._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts 24,261 lbs. + 2. 45,981 + 3. 31,041 + 4. 39,424 + 5. 34,711 + 6. 44,266 + 7. 31,315 + 8. 56,442 + 9. 33,932 + -------- + 341,372 + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 112,203 + -------- + Total 453,575 + + +IV. _A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1818, to 18th May 1819._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts 14,764 lbs. + 2. 44,323 + 3. 44,628 + ------- + 103,715 + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 26,211 + ------- + Total 129,926 + + RECAPITULATION. + + 1816 763,319 lbs. + 1817 1,039,246 + 1818 453,575 + 1819 129,926 + --------- + Total 2,386,066 + +During eighteen months of the same period, from Dec. 31st, 1816, to June +1st, 1818, there was deposited with, and shipped by, sundry other +persons in Herculaneum, as ascertained by Colonel S. Hammond and M. +Austin, Esq., 517,495 pounds of lead, together with patent shot, +manufactured by Elias Bates and Christian Wilt, to the amount of 668,350 +pounds. For the remaining part of the estimated term, (two years and +eleven months,) it is reasonable to presume that a like quantity of lead +was exported through private channels at Herculaneum, and a like +quantity of shot manufactured by Messrs. Bates and Wilt. This will make +the quantity of pig and bar lead shipped by individuals, 1,034,990 +pounds, and the quantity of patent shot manufactured, 1,356,700 pounds; +which two sums, added to the receipts of Mr. Bates's warehouse, as +detailed above, gives us an aggregate amount of 4,757,990 pounds, for +the period of two years and eleven months. St. Genevieve, as has already +been mentioned, is probably the storehouse for one-half of the mines, +and may therefore be estimated to have received and exported the same +quantity of pig and bar lead during the same period, making a total of +9,515,512 pounds, which gives an average product of more than three +million of pounds of lead per annum. + +It would be interesting to know in what proportion the different mines +have contributed to this amount. The above details show us their +collective importance; but we should then be enabled to estimate their +individual and comparative value. With this view, I have compiled, from +the best information, the following: + + ESTIMATE. + + Mines. Pounds of lead. No. of hands. + + Mine à Burton 1,500,000 160 + Mine Shibboleth 2,700,000 240 + Mine La Motte 2,400,000 210 + Richwoods 1,300,000 140 + + Bryan's Mines } + Dogget's Mines } 910,100 80 + + Perry's Diggings 600,000 60 + + Elliot's Mines } + Old Mines } 45,000 20 + Bellefontaine } + + Mine Astraddle } + Mine Liberty } + Renault's Mines } 450,000 40 + Mine Silvers } + Miller's Mines } + + Cannon's Diggings } + Becquet's Diggings } 75,000 30 + Little Mines } + + Rocky Diggings } + Citadel Diggings } + Lambert's Mine } 1,160,000 130 + Austin's Mines } + Jones's Mines } + + Gravelly Diggings } + Scott's Mine } + Mine à Martin } 50,000 20 + Mine à Robino } + ---------- ---- + 11,180,000 1,130 + +In this estimate are included all persons concerned in the operations of +mining, and who draw their support from it; wood-cutters, teamsters, and +blacksmiths, as well as those engaged in digging and smelting lead-ore, +&c. The estimate is supposed to embrace a period of three years, ending +1st June, 1819, and making an average product of 3,726,666 lbs. per +annum, which is so near the result arrived at in the preceding details, +as to induce a conclusion that it is essentially correct, and that the +mines of Missouri, taken collectively, yield this amount of pig-lead +annually. + +The United States acquired possession of the mines in the year 1803, +fifteen years ago last December; and, assuming the fact that they have +annually produced this quantity, there has been smelted, under the +American government, fifty-five million pounds of lead. + +On the view which has now been taken of the Missouri mines, it may be +proper here to remark-- + +1. That the ores of these mines are of the richest and purest kind, and +that they exist in such bodies as not only to supply all lead for +domestic consumption, but also, if the purposes of trade require it, are +capable of supplying large quantities for exportation. + +2. That although at different periods the amount of lead manufactured +has been considerable, yet this produce has been subject to perpetual +variation, and, upon the whole, has fallen, in the aggregate, far short +of the amount the mines are capable of producing. To make these mines +produce the greatest possible quantity of lead of which they are +capable, with the least possible expense, is a consideration of the +first political consequence, to which end it is desirable that the +reserved mines be disposed of, to individuals, or that the term for +which leases are granted be extended from three to fifteen years, which +will induce capitalists, who are now deterred by the illiberality of +governmental terms, to embark in mining. That there be laid a +governmental duty of two and a half cents per pound on all imported pig +and bar lead, which will exclude foreign lead from our markets, and +afford a desired relief to the domestic manufacturer. The present duty +is one cent per pound. But this does not prevent a foreign competition; +and the smelters call for, and appear to be entitled to, further +protection. + +3. That although the processes of mining now pursued are superior to +what they were under the Spanish government, yet there is a very +manifest want of skill, system, and economy, in the raising of ores, and +the smelting of lead. The furnaces in use are liable to several +objections. They are defective in the plan, they are constructed of +improper materials, and the workmanship is of the rudest kind. Hence, +not near the quantity of metallic lead is extracted from the ore which +it is capable, without an increase of expense, of yielding. There is a +great waste created by smelting ore in the common log furnace, in which +a considerable part of the lead is volatilized, forming the sublimated +matter which adheres in such bodies to the sides of the log furnaces, +and is thrown by as useless. This can be prevented by an improvement in +its construction. To pursue mining with profit, it is necessary to +pursue it with economy; and true economy is, to build the best of +furnaces, with the best of materials. At present the furnaces are +constructed of common limestone, which soon burns into quicklime, and +the work requires rebuilding from the foundation. Not only so, but the +frequency with which they require to be renewed, begets a carelessness +in those who build them, and the work is accordingly put up in the most +ordinary and unworkmanlike manner. Instead of limestone, the furnaces +ought to be constructed of good refractory sandstone, or apyrous clay, +in the form of bricks, which will resist the action of heat for a great +length of time. Both these substances are the production of that +country, and specimens of them are now in my possession. + +4. From the information afforded, it has been seen that the mines are +situated in a country which affords a considerable proportion of the +richest farming-lands, producing corn, rye, wheat, tobacco, hemp, flax, +oats, &c., in the greatest abundance, and that no country is better +adapted for raising cattle, horses, hogs, and sheep. The country is well +watered, and with the purest of water; the climate is mild and pleasant, +the air dry and serene, and the region is healthy in an unusual degree. +Every facility is also afforded by its streams for erecting works for +the manufacture of white and red lead, massicot, litharge, shot, +sheet-lead, mineral yellow, and the other manufactures dependent upon +lead. The country also abounds with various useful minerals besides +lead, which are calculated to increase its wealth and importance. It is +particularly abundant in iron, zinc, manganese, sulphur, salt, coal, +chalk, and ochre. + +5. That a systematic organization of the mining interest would have a +tendency to promote the public welfare. To this end, there should be +appointed an officer for the inspection and superintendence of mines. He +should reside in the mine country, and report annually to the proper +governmental department on the state of the mines, improvements, &c. His +duty should consist in part of the following items, viz.: + +_a._ To lease out public mines, and receive and account for rents. + +_b._ To prevent the waste and destruction of wood on the public lands. + +_c._ To see that no mines were wrought without authority. + +_d._ To keep the government informed, periodically, of the quantity of +lead made at the different mines, and of new discoveries of lead, or any +other useful minerals; and, + +_e._ To explore, practically, the mineralogy of the country, in order +fully to develop its mineral character and importance. Connected with +these duties, should be the collection of mineralogical specimens for a +national cabinet of natural history at Washington. + +The superintendent of mines should be a practical mineralogist, and such +a salary attached to the office as to induce a man of respectable +talents and scientific acquirements to accept the appointment. To allow +the manufacturers of lead every advantage consistent with the public +interest, the rent charged on mines should not exceed two and a half per +cent. on the quantity manufactured, which is equivalent to the proposed +governmental duty on imported lead, whereby the revenue would not only +be kept up, but might be considerably enhanced. The foregoing details +exhibit an annual produce of 3,726,666 pounds of lead, which, it is +presumable, may be half the quantity the mines are capable of producing, +with proper management. But, estimating the lead at four cents per +pound, and taking that as the average quantity, the annual rents, at two +and a half per cent., will create a revenue of thirty-two thousand four +hundred and ninety dollars. + +This subject is believed to be one that commends itself to the attention +of the government, which has, from a policy early introduced, reserved +the mineral lands on the public domain. No one can view it in the light +of these facts, without perceiving the propriety and necessity of an +efficient organization of this branch of the public interest. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[12] The following sketch of the life of Burton is given by Colonel +Thomas H. Benton, of St. Louis, in the Enquirer of that city, October +16, 1818:--"He is a Frenchman, from the north of France. In the +fore-part of the last century, he served in the Low Countries, under the +orders of Marshal Saxe. He was at Fontenoy when the Duke of Cumberland +was beat there by that Marshal. He was at the siege of Bergen-op-Zoom, +and assisted in the assault of that place when it was assailed by a +division of Marshal Saxe's army, under the command of Count Lowendahl. +He has also seen service upon this continent. He was at the building of +fort Chartres, on the American bottom; afterwards went to fort Du Quesne +(now Pittsburgh), and was present at Braddock's defeat. From the life of +a soldier, Burton passed to that of a hunter; and in this character, +about half a century ago, while pursuing a bear to the west of the +Mississippi, he discovered the rich lead-mines which have borne his name +ever since. His present age cannot be ascertained. He was certainly an +_old soldier_ at fort Chartres, when some of the people of the present +day were little children at that place. The most moderate computation +will make him a hundred and six. He now lives in the family of Mr. +Micheaux, at the little rock ferry, three miles above St. Genevieve, and +walks to that village almost every Sunday to attend mass. He is what we +call a square-built man, of five feet eight inches high, full chest and +forehead; his sense of seeing and hearing somewhat impaired, but free +from disease, and apparently able to hold out against time for many +years to come." + +[13] The following is a list of the principal mines worked under the +Spanish government, with their situation: + + Mine La Motte Head of St. Francis river. + Mine à Joe On Flat river. + Mine à Burton On a branch of Mineral Fork. + Old Mines On a branch of Mineral Fork. + Renault's Mines On Mineral Fork, or Fourche Arno. + + +[14] A law erecting the Territory of Arkansas from the southern part of +Missouri, has since passed; but its northern boundary is extended so as +to include all White river above the latitude of 36° 30'. + +[15] The following are the principal historical epochs of Louisiana, +chronologically arranged: + + A. D. + Discovered by Ferdinand de Soto, and named Florida 1539 + Visited by the French from Canada 1674 + Settlement made by La Salle 1683 + A settlement made at Beloxi 1699 + Granted to Crozat by Louis XIV., 14th September 1712 + New Orleans founded by the French 1717 + Retroceded to the crown by Crozat 1717 + Granted to the Company of the West 1717 + Retroceded by the Company of the Wes 1731 + Ceded by France to Spain 1762 + First occupied by the Spanish 1769 + Ceded to the United States 1803 + Taken possession of by the United States, 20th December 1803 + Louisiana became a State, August 1812 + Missouri Territory erected, 4th June 1812 + + +[16] On this passage, Mr. Silliman remarks, "that sulphur is not +poisonous to men or animals.... The _carbonate_ of barytes is eminently +poisonous; but we have never heard that the sulphate is so. May not the +licking around the furnaces expose the cattle to receive lead, in some +of its forms, minutely divided? or, if it be not active in the metallic +state, both the oxide and the carbonate, which must of course exist +around the furnaces, would be highly active and poisonous. Is it not +possible, also, that some of the natural waters of the country may, in +consequence of saline or acid impregnations, dissolve some of the lead, +and thus obtain saturnine qualities? We must allow, however, that we are +not acquainted with the existence of any natural water thus +impregnated."--JOUR. SCI., Vol. III. + +[17] I was mistaken in supposing this the only locality of the fluate of +lime in the United States. It has also been found "in Virginia, near +Woodstock or Miller's town, Shenandoah county, in small loose masses, in +the fissures of a limestone containing shells. (Barton.)--In Maryland, +on the west side of the Blue Ridge, with sulphate of barytes. +(Hayden.)--In New Jersey, near Franklin Furnace, in Sussex county, +disseminated in lamellar carbonate of lime, and accompanied with mica +and carburet of iron; also near Hamburg, in the same county, on the +turnpike to Pompton, in a vein of quartz and feldspar. (Bruce.)--In New +York, near Saratoga Springs, in limestone; it is nearly colorless, and +penetrated by pyrites.--In Vermont, at Thetford.--In Connecticut, at +Middletown, in a vein, and is accompanied by sulphurets of lead, zinc, +and iron. (Bruce.)--In Massachusetts, at the lead-mine in Southampton, +where it is imbedded in sulphate of barytes, or granite; its colors are +green, purple, &c.--In New Hampshire, at Rosebrook's Gap, in the White +Mountains, in small detached pieces. (Gibbs.)"--CLEVELAND'S MINERALOGY. + + + + +MINERALOGY. + + +A CATALOGUE OF THE MINERALS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. + +In the arrangement of this catalogue, the order introduced in Professor +Cleveland's mineralogical tables, has been chiefly observed. It is the +commencement of an investigation into the physical history, character, +and mineral resources of the West, which it will become the duty of +future observers to continue and perfect. The field is an extensive one, +and invites attention. The order and beauty that are observed in this +branch of natural history, afford as striking proofs as any of the other +departments of it, of that design which, in so remarkable a manner, +pervades the organization of the various classes of bodies, animate and +inanimate, on the surface of the globe. So far as respects mineralogy, +its species and varieties have not all been seen, in crystallized forms, +agreeably to our imperfect state of microscopical knowledge; but as far +as the species have been brought within observation, in the classes of +crystals and crystallized ores, they rival, in their colors and exact +geometrical forms, other systems of bodies. + +In revising the list, those specimens are dropped, respecting which +further reflection or examination has shown, either that the early +descriptions were imperfect, or that the quantity of the mineral was +deficient. + + I. ALKALINE AND EARTHY SALTS. + + 1. Nitrate of potash. Nitre. + 2. Muriate of soda. Salt. + 3. Sulphate of barytes. Heavy spar. + 4. Carbonate of lime. Calc. spar. + _a._ Rhombic crystals. + _b._ Concrete forms. + 5. Fluate of lime. Fluor spar. + 6. Sulphate of lime. Gypsum. + 7. Sulphate of magnesia. Magnesia. + 8. Sulphate of alumine and potash. Alum. + + II. EARTHY COMPOUNDS AND STONES. + + 9. Quartz. + _a._ Hexagonal crystals. + _b._ Radiated. + _c._ Chalcedony. + _d._ Agatized wood. + _e._ Agate. + _f._ Jasper. + _g._ Hornstone. + _h._ Red ferruginous quartz. + _i._ Tabular quartz. + _j._ Granular quartz. + _k._ Hoary quartz. + _l._ Carnelian. + _m._ Buhrstone. + _n._ Opalized wood. + 10. Pumice. + 11. Mica. + 12. Feldspar. + 13. Hornblende. + 14. Greenstone porphyry. + 15. Clay. + _a._ Native alumine. + _b._ Indurated clay. + _c._ Reddle. + 16. Basanite. + 17. Indian pipestone. + Opwagonite. + 18. Schoerl. + 19. Novaculite. + + III. COMBUSTIBLES. + + 20. Sulphur. + _a._ Crystallized. + _b._ Concrete. + 21. Graphite. + 22. Coal. + _a._ Slaty-bituminous. + _b._ Wood-coal. + Bituminous shale. + + IV. METALS. + + 23. Native copper. + 24. Iron. + 25. Sulphuret of iron. + 26. Iron glance. + 27. Micaceous oxide of iron. + 28. Brown oxide of iron. + 29. Ironstone. + 30. Argillaceous oxide of iron. + 31. Ochrey oxide of iron. + 32. Sulphuret of lead. + _a._ Common galena. + _b._ Specular. + _c._ Granular. + _d._ Cobaltic. + 33. Carbonate of lead. + 34. Earthy oxide of lead. + 35. Sulphuret of zinc. + 36. Sulphuret of manganese. + +FIRST CLASS. + +1. NITRE--SALTPETRE. This salt, in its efflorescent state, +exists extensively in the limestone caves of Missouri and Arkansas. It +also impregnates the masses of earth found in these recesses. This earth +is lixiviated with wood-ashes, which allows the nitre to take a +crystalline form. I visited a large cavern, about eighty miles +south-west of Potosi, where this salt was manufactured, and observed its +efflorescences in other caves in the Ozark range. + +2. MURIATE OF SODA. About one hundred and fifty thousand +bushels of common salt are annually made from the United States' saline +on Salt river, in Illinois. It appears, from the remains of antique +broken vessels found in that locality, to have been manufactured there +by the ancient inhabitants. There is a saline, which has been profitably +worked, on Saline creek, in St. Genevieve county. Two salt springs are +worked, in a small way, in Jefferson county, Mo. The springs in Arkansas +are reported to be extensive, and rumors of rock-salt on its plains have +been rife, since the purchase of Louisiana. The hunters whom I met in +the Ozark range, invariably affirmed its existence, in crystalline solid +masses, in that quarter; from which also, it is to be recollected, De +Soto's scouts brought it, in 1542. + +3. SULPHATE OF BARYTES--HEAVY SPAR. This mineral is found, in +considerable quantities, at the principal lead-mines of Missouri, west +of the Mississippi. It presents its usual characters--it is heavy, +white, shining, opaque, and easily fractured. It is sometimes found +crested, columnar, prismatic, or in tabular crystallizations. Its +surface is frequently covered by a yellowish, ochrey earth, or +ferruginous oxide. It sometimes exists as the matrix of the sulphuret of +lead--more frequently, as one of its accompanying minerals. + +4. CARBONATE OF LIME. + +a. _Calc. Spar._ This form of the carbonate of lime is common in the +lead-mine regions of Missouri. At Hazel run, it constitutes, to some +extent, the gangue of the lead-ores. It is generally imbedded in lumps +in the red clay mineral soil. These lumps are round, externally; but, on +being broken, reveal a rhomboidal structure, and are beautifully +transparent. + +b. _Stalactites._ This form of the carbonate of lime is found in a cave +on the head-waters of Currents river, in Missouri. The stalactites are +found in concretions resembling icicles hanging from the roof, or in +columns reaching to the floor. The specimens are translucent. +Stalactites are also found in a very large cave (Winoca) on Findley's +fork, one of the tributaries of White river, Arkansas. They form two +large vases in this cave, which are filled with the most crystalline +water. + +c. _Stalagmite_ (Calcareous Alabaster). The cave which has just been +mentioned on Findley's fork, affords this mineral in small, solid +globules, which strew the floor of the cave. + +5. FLUOR SPAR. The elevated lands on the west banks of the +Ohio, near the picturesque shores of Cave-in-Rock, in Illinois, disclose +this mineral. It exhibits its well-known character. It is generally of a +purple, or amethystine hue, and crystallized, as its primary form, in +cubes. Externally, these crystals are dull. Its association here is with +the ores of lead, which have been extensively searched for in former +times. It is plentifully found, sometimes in large crystals, which have +an external appearance as if they had been subjected to the influence of +turbid water. It has been thus far, chiefly, explored in the diluvial +stratum. + +6. GYPSUM. Foliated masses of this mineral occur in the river +cliffs in St. Clair county, Illinois. It is found in large quantities +near the salines in Upper Arkansas. Dr. Sibley, speaking of the +formation in that vicinity, says: "It is a tract of about seventy-five +miles square, in which nature has arranged a variety of the most strange +and whimsical vagaries. It is an assemblage of beautiful meadows, +verdant ridges, and rude misshapen piles of red clay, thrown together in +the utmost apparent confusion, yet affording the most pleasing +harmonies, and presenting in every direction an endless variety of +curious and interesting objects. After winding along for a few miles on +the high ridges, you suddenly descend an almost perpendicular declivity +of rocks and clay, into a series of level and fertile meadows, watered +by some beautiful rivulets, and adorned here and there with shrubby +cotton trees, elms, and cedars. These meadows are divided by chains +formed of red clay, and huge masses of gypsum, with here and there a +pyramid of gravel. One might imagine himself surrounded by the ruins of +some ancient city, and that the plain had sunk by some convulsion of +nature more than one hundred feet below its former level; for some of +the huge columns of red clay rise to the height of two hundred feet +perpendicular, capped with rocks of gypsum, which the hand of time is +ever crumbling off, and strewing in beautiful transparent flakes, along +the declivities of the hill, glittering like so many mirrors in the +sun." + +7. SULPHATE OF MAGNESIA. A large and curious cavern has been +discovered in the calcareous rocks at Corydon, near the seat of +government of Indiana, which is found to yield very beautiful white +crystals of this mineral. To what extent these appearances exist, is +unknown; but the cavern invites exploration. + +8. ALUM. Efflorescences of the sulphate of alumina exist in a +calcareous cavern in the elevated ranges of Bellevieu, in the county of +Washington, Mo. No practical use is made of it. + +9. QUARTZ. This important family of mineral bodies exists, in +many of its forms, on the west banks of the Mississippi. They will be +noticed under their appropriate names. + +a. _Granular Quartz._ There is a very large body of this mineral about +eight miles west of St. Genevieve, near the Potosi road. It is known as +the site of a remarkable cave. The sides, roof, and floor of the cave, +consist of the most pure and white granular quartz. It is quite friable +between the fingers, and falls into a singularly transparent and +beautiful sand. Each of these grains, when examined by the microscope, +is found to be a transparent molecule of pure quartz. It possesses no +definable tint of color, is not acted upon by either nitric or muriatic +acids, and appears to be an aggregation of minute crystals of quartz. It +occurs in several caves near the road, whose sides are entirely composed +of it; and its snowy hue, and granular structure, give it the appearance +of refined sugar. It appears to me to be composed of silex nearly or +quite pure, and possesses, as I find on treatment with potash, the +property of easy fusibility. Could the necessary alkali and apyrous +clays be conveniently had at this spot, I cannot conceive a more +advantageous place for a manufactory of crystal glass. + +b. _Radiated Quartz._ This mineral is found in great abundance at the +Missouri lead-mines, where it bears the striking name of mineral +blossom, or blossom of lead--an opinion being entertained that it +indicates the presence or contiguity of lead-ore. Examined with care, it +is found to consist of small crystals of quartz, disposed in radii, +which resemble the petals of a flower. These crystals are superimposed +on a basis consisting of thin lines, or tabular layers, of agate. It is +found either strewn on the surface of the soil, imbedded in it, or +existing in cavities in the limestone rock. + +c. _Chalcedony._ This species is brought down the Mississippi or +Missouri, and deposited in small fragments along the Missouri shore. It +also constitutes the principal layers in the thin tabular, or mamillary +masses, which constitute the basis of the radiated quartz. Most +commonly, it is bluish-white, or milk-white. + +d. _Agatized Wood._ Fragments of this mineral are brought down the +Missouri, and deposited, in occasional pieces, along the banks of the +Mississippi. + +e. _Hornstone--Chert._ This substance appears to have been imbedded +extensively in the calcareous strata of the Mississippi valley; for it +is scattered, as an ingredient, in its diluvions. Frequently it is in +chips, or fragments, all of which indicate a smooth conchoidal fracture. +Sometimes it consists of parts of nodules. Sometimes it is still solidly +imbedded in the rock, or consolidated strata, as on the coast below +Cape Girardeau, Mo. Indeed, so far as observation goes, it characterizes +all the district of country between the western banks of the Mississippi +river, and the great prairies and sand deserts at the foot of the Rocky +mountains. Its color is generally brown, with different shades of +yellow, black, blue, or red. It appears nearly allied to flint, into +which it is sometimes seen passing. It runs also into varieties of +jasper, chalcedony, and common quartz; and the different gradations from +well-characterized hornstone, until its distinctive characters are lost +in other sub-species of quartz, may be distinctly marked. The barbs for +Indian arrows, frequently found in this region, appear to have been +chiefly made of hornstone. + +f. _Jasper._ This mineral also appears to have been imbedded in the +silico-calcareous rocks of the western valley; and it is found, in the +fragmentary form, on the banks of the Mississippi, and also on its +plains below the Rocky mountains. The fine yellow egg-shaped pebbles of +White river, are common jasper. Several specimens, picked up in a +desultory journey, possess striking beauty. The first is a uniform +bottle-green, very hard, and susceptible of a high polish. The second is +the fragment of a nodular mass, consisting of alternate concentric +stripes of green, brown, and yellow; the colors passing by imperceptible +shades into each other. A specimen found in Potosi consists of alternate +stripes of rose and flesh red. + +g. _Agate._ This mineral is picked up, in a fragmentary form, along the +banks of the Mississippi. Its original repository appears to have been +the volcanic and amygdaloidal rocks about its sources, which have been +extensively broken down by geological mutations, during ante-historical +periods. The fragments are often beautifully transparent, sometimes +zoned or striped. Sometimes they are arranged in angles, presenting the +fortification-agate. The colors are various shades of white and red, the +latter being layers of carnelian. All the pieces found in this dispersed +state are harder than the imbedded species, and are with difficulty cut +by the lapidary. + +h. _Opal._ A single specimen of this mineral, from the right banks of +the Ohio, near Cave-in-Rock, Illinois, is of a delicate bluish-white, +and opalesces on being held to the light. It is not acted on by acids. +This locality is remarkable as yielding galena, heavy spar, blende, +calcareous spar, fluor spar, pyrites, coal, and salt. It belongs to the +great secondary limestone formation of the Ohio valley. It is cavernous, +and yields some fossil impressions. + +i. _Red Ferruginous Quartz._ This occurs as one of the imbedded +materials of the diluvion of the Mississippi valley. + +k. _Rock Crystal._ Very perfect and beautiful crystals of this mineral +are procured near the Hot Springs of Arkansas. They consist, generally, +of six-sided prisms, terminated by six-sided pyramids. Some of these +are so perfectly limpid, that writing can be read, without the +slightest obscurity, through the parallel faces of the crystals. + +l. _Pseudomorphous Chalcedony._ Lake Pepin, Upper Mississippi. This +appears to have been formed by deposition on cubical crystals, which +have disappeared. + +m. _Tabular Quartz._ West bank of the Mississippi, Missouri. Of a white +color, semi-transparent. The plates are single, and the lines perfectly +parallel. + +n. _Hoary Quartz._ West banks of the Mississippi, Mo. The character of +hoariness appears to be imparted by very minute crystals, or concretions +of quartz, on the surface of radiated quartz. + +o. _Common Quartz._ This mineral is found in veins of from one to eight +or ten feet wide, in the argillaceous rock formation in the vicinity of +the Hot Springs of Washita. It is also seen, in very large detached +masses, on the south bank of White river. The character of these rocks +will not be recognized on a superficial view; for they have a gray, +time-worn appearance, and are so much covered by moss, that it was not +until I had broken off a fragment with a hammer, that I discovered them +to be white quartz. Pebbles of quartz, either white or variously colored +by iron, are common on the shores of White river, and, joined to the +purity and transparency of the waters, add greatly to the pleasure of a +voyage on that beautiful stream. + +p. _Buhrstone._ Raccoon creek, Indiana. This bed is noted throughout the +western country, and affords a profitable branch of manufacture. It +covers an area of from ten to fifteen acres square. Its texture is +vesicular, yet it is sufficiently compact to admit of being quarried +with advantage, and the stones are applied to the purposes of milling +with the best success. + +q. _Sedimentary Quartz--Schoolcraftite._ This mineral occurs three miles +from the Hot Springs of Washita. It is of a grayish-white color, +partaking a little of green, yellow, or red; translucent in an uncommon +degree, with an uneven and moderately glimmering fracture, and +susceptible of being scratched with a knife. Oil stones for the purpose +of honing knives, razors, or tools, are occasionally procured from this +place, and considerable quantities have been lately taken to New +Orleans. It gives a fine edge, and is considered equal to the Turkish +oil-stone. It appears to me, from external character and preliminary +tests, to consist almost entirely of silex, with a little oxide of iron. +Its compactness, superior softness, specific gravity, and coloring +matter, distinguish it from silicious sinter. It has been improperly +termed, heretofore, "novaculite." It contains no alumine. It sometimes +reveals partial conditions, or spots, of a degree of hardness nearly +equal to common quartz. + +r. _Carnelian._ Banks of the Mississippi, above the junction of the +Ohio. Traces of this mineral begin to be found, as soon as the heavy +alluvial lands are passed. It is among the finest detritus of the +minerals of the quartz family, brought down from upper plains. The +fragments, in these lower positions, are small, transparent, and hard, +colored red or yellowish. + +s. _Basanite--Touchstone._ This mineral is found in the Mississippi +detritus; but no fixed locality has been ascertained. + +10. PUMICE. The light, vesicular substance, found floating down +the Missouri and Mississippi, is not, properly speaking, a true pumice, +capable of the applications of that article in the arts; but it cannot +be classified with any other species. It is more properly a +pseudo-pumice, arising from partial volcanic action on the formations of +some of the tributaries of the Missouri, which originate in the Rocky +mountains. It is brought down by the June flood, sometimes in large +masses, which, as the waters abate, are left on the islands or shores. +It is incompletely vitrified, consisting of spongy globules. The masses +are irregularly colored, agreeably to the vitrified materials, red, +black or brown. Its tenacity is very great. + +30. MICA. In the granitical, or primitive district, at the +sources of the St. Francis. The great body of these rocks is a sienite, +or sienitic granite, or greenstone. Like the northern granitical tracts, +the mica is generally replaced by hornblende. The folia, usually, are +small. + +31. FELDSPAR. With the preceding. The great bulk of these +granitical formations consists of red feldspar. Where the greenstone +becomes porphyritic, the feldspar is a light green. + +32. HORNBLENDE. With the preceding. This mineral assumes its +crystalline form, in large areas of the sienite rock. With the two +preceding minerals, mica and feldspar, and common quartz, it constitutes +the mountain peaks of that remarkable district. It is the only locality, +except the Washita hills, where these formations rise to an elevation +above the great metalliferous sandstone, and carbonaceous deposits of +the central area of the Mississippi valley, south of the Sauk rapids, +above St. Anthony's falls, and the head-waters of the St. Peter's, or +Minnesota river. The latter constitute the northern limits of the great +horizontal, sedimentary, semi-crystallized rocks west of the +Alleghanies. + +33. GREENSTONE PORPHYRY. With the preceding. + +34. PUDDINGSTONE. In the tongue of land formed by the junction +of the Ohio with the Mississippi, directly beneath the alluvial lands at +the old site of fort Massac, and at the village called "America." Also, +in large, broken blocks, along the west shores of the Mississippi, near +the "chalk banks," so called, in Cape Girardeau county, and at Cape +Garlic, on the west banks of the Mississippi. + +33. NATIVE ALUMINE--WHITE, FRIABLE, PURE CLAY. At the head of +Tiawapeta bottom, Little Chain of Rocks, west banks of the Mississippi, +Cape Girardeau county, Missouri. This remarkable body of white earth is +locally denominated chalk, and was thus called in the first edition of +this catalogue. It is employed as a substitute for chalk, but is found +to contain no carbonic acid, and is destitute of a particle of calcia. +It appears, from Mr. Jessup,[18] to be nearly pure alumine. The +traveller, on ascending the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio, +passes through a country of alluvial formation, a distance of +thirty-five miles. Here the first high land presents itself on the west +bank of the river, in a moderately elevated ridge, running from +south-east to north-west, and terminating abruptly in the bank of the +river, which here runs nearly at right angles with the ridge, and has +been worn away by the action of the water. This ridge consists of +secondary limestone, overlying a coarse reddish sandstone, which, at the +lowest stage of the water in summer, is seen in huge misshapen +fragments, at the immediate edge of the water, and at intervals nearly +half way across the river, as well as on the Illinois shore. The mineral +occurs in mass, abundantly. It is nearly dry, of a perfectly white +color, and chalky friability. It embraces masses of hornstone, +resembling flint. It also occurs at a higher point on the same shore, +two miles below the Grand Tower. + +34. PLASTIC WHITE CLAY. Gray's mine, Jefferson county, Mo. + +35. OPWAGUNITE[19]--GEOGNOSTIC RED CLAY. Prairie des Couteau, +between the sources of the St. Peter's river and the Missouri. It exists +in lamellar masses, beneath secondary masses. It is of a dull red color, +is soft, compact, easily cut, and is a material much employed and valued +by the Indians for carving pipes, and sometimes neck ornaments. +Occasionally it has brighter spots of pale red. It is also found on the +Red Cedar, or Folle Avoine branch of Chippewa river, Wisconsin, of a +darker color, approaching to that of chocolate. It is polished by the +Indians with rushes. + +III. COMBUSTIBLES. + +36. SULPHUR. In flocculent white deposits, in a spring, +Jefferson county, Missouri. + +37. MINERAL COAL. Bituminous, slaty coal, constitutes a very +large geological basin in the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, where it +appears to have resulted from the burial of ancient forests. At +Pittsburgh, I found it composing thick strata in elevated grounds, on +the south banks of the Monongahela river. In an excursion up that +stream, it characterizes its banks at intervals for forty miles. It +inflames easily, burns with a pitchy smoke and bituminous smell, and +throws out a great heat. It occurs in veins in limestone, along with +argillaceous slate, indurated clay, red sandstone, and bituminous shale, +which are arranged in alternate strata, one above the other, preserving +an exact parallelism with the waters of the Alleghany, Monongahela, and +Ohio rivers. The coal always constitutes a vein between the shale and +clay which are found immediately above and below it. The clay appears to +have originated from the decomposition of shale; for it may be observed +in all stages of the decomposition, from a well-characterized +argillaceous slate, to plastic clay. + +The veins of coal are from a foot to nine feet in thickness, and the +strata of coal, shale, limestone, &c., are repeated; so that the sides +of the hills which afford coal, exhibit several strata, with the rock +intervening, one above another. The greatest distance, in a +perpendicular direction, from one stratum to another, is perhaps one +hundred feet; and such is the regularity of the coal formation in this +region, that the description of one pit, or bed, will apply almost +equally to any other within a circuit of two hundred miles, every +section of which is characterized by coal. Sometimes pyrites of a +tin-white color are found mixed among the coal. In Missouri, it occurs +at Florrisant. + +38. GRAPHITE--PLUMBAGO. Twelve miles south of Potosi, +Washington county, Mo., in a large body. + +39. SULPHURET OF LEAD. + +a. _Galena._ One of the most remarkable formations of this ore in +America, if not in the world, is furnished by the metalliferous +limestones of the Mississippi. Of these, Missouri furnishes one of the +most celebrated localities. These mines were first explored by the +renowned Mississippi Company, in 1719, and have continued to be worked +during the successive changes which it has experienced under the French, +Spanish, and Americans, to the present period. The number of mines now +wrought is about fifty, and the quantity of lead annually smelted is +estimated at three millions of pounds. The ore is the common galena, +with a broad glittering grain, and bluish-gray color, and is found +accompanied by sulphate of barytes, blende, pyrites, quartz, and +calcareous spar. It yields, on assay, eighty-two per cent. of metallic +lead, the remainder being chiefly sulphur. (Vide "View of the +Lead-Mines.") + +b. _Granular Sulphuret of Lead._ Mine La Motte, Madison county, +Missouri. + +c. _Cobaltic Sulphuret of Lead._ With the preceding. + +40. OXIDE OF LEAD. Earthy, yellow. Wythe county, Virginia. + +41. CARBONATE OF LEAD. Lead-mines of Missouri. It occurs in +some of the mines as a crust, or thin layer, on ores of galena. + +42. SULPHURET OF ZINC. In the form of black blende. Lead-mines +of Missouri. + +43. OXIDE OF ZINC. Earthy, grayish-white. In the mineral called +"dry-bone." Missouri lead-mines. + +44. IRON. + +a. _Iron Glance._ In the Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob, on the sources of +the river St. Francis, Missouri. It occurs in vast masses, granular, and +sometimes specular, without iridescence. Also, on White river, Arkansas. + +b. _Micaceous Oxide of Iron._ Sources of the St. Francis river, +Missouri. A vein of this ore, several feet wide, is found in red +sienite, on the banks of the river St. Francis, at the Narrows, Madison +county, Missouri Territory. Its unusual appearance has for several years +attracted the attention of the inhabitants. It is situated four miles +south of the extensive lead-mines of La Motte, and in the centre of a +highly interesting geological and mineralogical section of country. The +rocks at that place are the old red granite and sienite, in mountain +masses, with veins of greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and gneiss. + +c. _Red Oxide of Iron._ Flint river, Tennessee. + +d. _Brown Hæmatite._ On the dividing ridge between Strawberry and Spring +rivers, Arkansas. + +e. _Argillaceous Oxide of Iron--Ironstone._ Banks of the Monongahela, +Pennsylvania. + +f. _Sulphuret of Iron._ Accompanying the ores and vein-stones of the +Missouri lead-mines. + +g. _Magnetic Oxide of Iron._ Fifteen miles below the Hot Springs, on the +Washita river, Arkansas. In quantity. + +45. BLACK OXIDE OF MANGANESE. On Big Sandy river, Kentucky. +Also, on the sources of the Maramec and Spring rivers, Missouri, +accompanied by the brown oxide of iron. + +46. NATIVE COPPER. Scattered masses of this metal have been +found on Big river, and also in a shaft sunk near Harrisonville, +Illinois. Nothing, however, is known in America, to equal the vast +quantities of this metal found in the trap veins on the banks of lake +Superior. + +47. SULPHATE OF COPPER. On the Washita river, fifteen miles +below the Hot Springs, Arkansas. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[18] Long's Expedition. + +[19] From "opwaguu," (Algonquin) a pipe; and "lithos," (Gr.) a stone. + + + + +CATALOGUE OF MINERALS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, (CONTINUED.) + +OCTOBER, 1819. + + + 1. Sulphate of lime. Arkansas. + + 2. Sulphuret of lead, in quartz. Washington county, Mo. + + 3. Agate, from Persia. Brought by Captain Austin. + + 4. Serpentine. Derby, Conn. + + 5. Galena upon crystallized quartz. Missouri. + + 6. Limpid quartz. Hot Springs, Arkansas. + + 7. Striped agate. St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 8. Sienite. Persia. + + 9. Silicious breccia. Illinois. + + 10. Sulphuret of lead. Shangum Mountain, Ulster county, N. Y. + + 11. Garnet, in micaceous schistus. Watertown, Litchfield county, Conn. + + 12. Galena, iron pyrites, &c., in quartz. Northampton, Mass. + + 13. Serpentine. Derby, Conn. + + 14. Red granite. River St. Francis, Madison county, Missouri Territory. + + 15. Red oxide of zinc. Sussex county, N. J. + + 16. Metalliferous limestone. Missouri. + + 17. Agate. Strawberry river, Arkansas Territory. + + 18. Dolomite. Stockbridge, Mass. + + 19. Lamellar galena. Bryan's mines, St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 20. Shell-limestone. Bermuda. + + 21. Arseniate of cobalt, with nickel, in actynolite. Chatham, Conn. + + 22. Galena in quartz. Shangum Mountain, N. Y. + + 23. Regulus of antimony. + + 24. Granular argillaceous oxide of iron (pea ore). Staten Island, N. Y. + + 25. Olivine. Europe. + + 26. Indicolite in lamellar feldspar. Chesterfield, Mass. + + 27. Brucite, (Gibbs,) silicious fluate of magnesia, in transition + carbonate of lime, with graphite. Sussex county, N. J. + + 28. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 29. Serpentine. Hoboken, N. J. + + 30. Sulphuret of antimony, with crystals of carbonate of lime. + Cornwall, England. + + 31. Chalcedony. Easthaven, Conn. + + 32. Arseniate of iron, in quartz. Connecticut. + + 33. Arseniate of cobalt, with iron pyrites and copper. Ireland. + + 34. Indurated talc. Hoboken, N. J. + + 35. Primitive granular limestone. Kingsbridge, N. Y. + + 36. Galena in quartz. Wales. + + 37. Carbonate and sulphuret of copper, with calcareous spar, in + sandstone. Schuyler's mines, Bergen county, N. J. + + 38. Iron pyrites (cubical). Haddam, Conn. + + 39. Ferruginous oxide of manganese. Greenwich street, New York city. + + 40. Green feldspar. Hoboken, N. J. + + 41. Chert. Wales. + + 42. Brown hæmatite. Salisbury, Conn. + + 43. Indicolite, in lamellar feldspar. Chesterfield, Mass. + + 44. Tremolite. Litchfield county, Conn. + + 45. Sappare (Cyanite of Cleveland). Litchfield county, Conn. + + 46. Chabasie. Deerfield, Mass. + + 47. Anthracite, with quartz. Rhode Island. + + 48. Fluate of lime. Derbyshire, Eng. + + 49. Asbestos. Milford, Conn. + + 50. Zeolite. Giants' Causeway, county of Antrim, Ireland. + + 51. Hydrate of magnesia. Hoboken, N. J. + + 52. Serpentine (verte antique). Milford, Conn. + + 53. Serpentine (pure). Milford, Conn. + + 54. Primitive granular limestone, equalling Carrara marble. + Stockbridge, Mass. + + 55. Precious serpentine. Hoboken, N. J. + + 56. Beryl, in granitic rock. Haddam, Conn. + + 57. Sediment in the Hot Springs of Washita, Arkansas Territory. + + 58. Asbestos. Milford, Conn. + + 59. Talc. Staten Island, Richmond county, N. Y. + + 60. Graphic granite. Staten Island, Richmond county, N. Y. + + 61. Amethystine quartz. Easthaven, Conn. + + 62. Prehinite. Hartford, Conn. + + 63. Jasper. Egypt. + + 64. Granite. Greenfield Hill, Conn. + + 65. Fibrous carbonate of lime, resembling zeolite. Hoboken, N. J. + + 66. Chalcedony. Easthaven, Conn. + + 67. Tremolite. Litchfield, Conn. + + 68. Sulphuret of antimony. Cornwall, Eng. + + 69. Sulphuret of antimony, Cornwall, Eng. + + 70. Agate. Corlaer's Hook, Island of New York. + + 71. Sulphuret of molybdena, in granite. Bergen, N. J. + + 72. Cellular mass of sandstone and quartz, with crystals of quartz. + Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 73. Crystallized carbonate of lime, with carb'te of copper. Same mines. + + 74. Micaceous oxide of iron. River St. Francis, Madison county, Mo. + + 75. Petrified wood. Locality unknown. + + 76. Sulphate of copper (blue vitriol), with carbonate of copper, in a + ferruginous sandstone. Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 77. Carbonate of copper. Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 78. Agate. South bank of White river, Arkansas Territory. + + 79. Sulphuret of lead, carbonate of copper, and yellow oxide of iron. + Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 80, 81, 82, and 83. Calcareous spar. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 84 and 85. Sulphuret of lead, in sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines, + Missouri. + + 86. Argentiferous lead-glance. Mine La Motte, Missouri. + + 87. Specular oxide of iron, with quartz. Bellevieu, Washington county, + Missouri. + + 88. Sulphuret of zinc. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 89. Yellow mamillary quartz, incrusted with sulphate of barytes and + hæmatitic iron. Old Mines, Missouri. + + 90. Lamellar sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 91. Brown hæmatite. Staten Island, N. Y. + + 92. Greenstone porphyry. River St. Francis, Madison county, Mo. + + 93. Cubical lead-glance, with calcareous spar. Bryan's mines, Mo. + + 94. Crested sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 95. Pyramidal sulphate of barytes (prism spar). Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 96. Lamellar sulphate of barytes, with galena. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 97. Lamellar with crystals of calcareous spar. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 98. Blende, with iron pyrites. Elliott's mines, Missouri. + + 99. Flint. Locality unknown. + + 100. Granular sulphuret of lead. Mine La Motte, Missouri. + + 101. Pumice of the Missouri river. + + 102. Pseudo-volcanic product of same. + + 103. Ferruginous sulphate of barytes, on radiated quartz. Lead-mines + of Missouri. + + 104. Crested brown oxide of iron. Jefferson county, Mo. + + 105. Radiated quartz, incrusted with sulphate of barytes and iron. + Potosi, Mo. + + 106. Granular lead-ore (a sulphuret). Mine La Motte, Mo. + + 107. Brown oxide of iron, crystallized in octahedrons. Washington + county, Mo. + + 108. Mamillary quartz, on a basis of agate. River St. Francis, Mo. + + 109. Radiated quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 110. Radiated quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 111, 112, 113, 114, and 115. Mamillary quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 116. Chalky clay. Cape Girardeau, Mo. + + 117. Cubical pyrites, with calcareous spar. Mineral Fork, Mo. + + 118. Radiated quartz, incrusted with crystallized oxide of iron. + Jefferson county, Mo. + + 119. Tabular galena. Bryan's mines, Mo. + + 120. Radiated quartz. Jefferson county, Mo. + + 121. Radiated quartz. Potosi. + + 122. Hoary quartz (a variety unnoticed in the books). Potosi. + + 123. Galena, in heavy spar. Potosi. + + 124. Galena, on radiated quartz. Potosi. + + 125. Carbonate of lime, covered by crystals of quartz. Potosi. + + 126. Metalliferous limestone. Potosi. + + 127. Metalliferous limestone. Potosi. + + 128. Granite. Missouri. + + 129. Radiated limpid quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 130 and 131. Sulphuret of lead. Potosi. + + 132. Galena, with calcareous spar. Bryan's mines, Mo. + + 133 and 134. Galena, partially desulphurated by beat. Potosi. + + 135. Chalcedony. St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 136. Madreporite. Gallatin county, Illinois. + + 137. Primitive granular limestone. Carrara, Italy. + + 138. Egyptian marble. + + 139. Argillaceous porphyry. France. + + 140 and 141. Milford marble. + + 142 and 143. Philadelphia marble. + + 144. Egyptian marble. + + 145. Bituminous shale. + + 146. Cubical iron-ore. Jefferson county, Mo. + + 147. Regulus of nickel and cobalt. + + 148. Tourmaline. Greensburgh, Westchester county, N. Y. + + 149. Graphic granite. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 150. Fibrous gypsum. Nova Scotia. + + 151. Trap. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 152. Tremolite, in carbonate of lime. Somerstown, Westchester county, + New York. + + 153. Asbestos in steatite, on carbonate of lime. New York. + + 154. Asbestos in steatite, on carbonate of lime. New York. + + 155. Lamellar pyrites. Sussex county, N. J. + + 156. Graphite pyrites. Sussex county, N. J. + + 157. Pyrites, in hornblende. Sussex county, N. J. + + 158. Brass yellow pyrites. Sussex county, N. J. + + 159. Jaspery agate. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 160. Pyrites, with specular oxide of iron. Sussex county, N. J. + + 161. Sulphate of barytes. Schooley's Mountain, N. J. + + 162. Sulphate of barytes. Washington county, Mo. + + 163. Bitter spar. Hoboken, N. J. + + 164. Arseniate of cobalt. Chatham, Conn. + + 165. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 166. Granular quartz. St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 167. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 168. Common striped jasper. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 169. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 170. Compact limestone. Herculaneum, Mo. + + 171. Limestone. St. Louis, Mo. + + 172. Fibrous quartz. Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 173. Quartz. Dutchess county, &c., N. Y. + + 174. Sulphuret of zinc, in crystallized quartz. Ulster county, N. Y. + + 175. Brown hæmatite. Salisbury, Conn. + + 176. Greenstone porphyry. Madison county, Mo. + + 177. Galena. Missouri. + + +SHELLS. + + 1. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with Voluta mercatoria[*] included. + + 2. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with Voluta oliva[*] included. + + 3. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with serpulæ attached and included. + + 4. Murex[*] carica, with two pairs Mya[*] arenaria. + + 5. Helix[*] ampullacea, with two small madrepores.[*] + + 6. Helix[*] ampullacea, with seven Cypræa[*] monita--African money. + + 7. Venus[*] mercenaria, with four small ones; a variety of species + included. + + 8. Venus[*] mercenaria, two valves, intermediate between the last + named. + + 9. Cardium[*] leucostomum. + + 10. Cardium[*] edule. + + 11. Buccinum[*] perdix, three shells. + + 12. Murex[*] peritoideus, two shells. + + 13. Venus[*] maculata. + + 14. Patella[*] fornicata, six shells. + + 15. Buccinum[*] testiculus, two shells. + + 16. Venus[*] Paphia, two valves. + + 17. Larva[*] of strombus gigas, six shells. + + 18. Buccinum[+] glabratum (Ebuma of Lamarck). + + 19 and 20. Cypræa[+] lirabica. + + 21. C. sordida,[*] Linn. C. carneola, Lam. + + 22. C. caput[*] serpentis. Viper's head; cowry. + + 23. C. exanthema.[*] (False argus.) + + 24. Buccinum[*] patulum. + + 25. Voluta prunum.[*] + + 26. Cypræa[*] lota, two shells. + + 27. Voluta guttrata.[+] + + 28. Bulla[*] gibbosa, seven shells. + + 29. Ostrea[*] edulis. + + 30. Peetsen.[*] + + 31. Venus[*] tigerina. + + 32. Tellina[*] radiata. + + 33. Dentralium.[*] + + 34. Nerita[*] mammilla. + + 35. Bulla[*] ampulla. + + 36. Voluta oryzy.[*] (Rice shells.) + + 37. Voluta[*] nivea. + + 38. Arca[*] glycymeris. + + 39. Cerea[*] noe. + + 40. Mytilus[*] modiolus. + + [* Occidental shells.] + + [+ Oriental shells.] + + + + +MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WEST. + +A LETTER TO CHARLES G. HAINES, ESQ., SECRETARY OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR +THE PROMOTION OF INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS AT NEW YORK. + + +NEW YORK, October 5th, 1819. + +SIR: In reply to your communication of the 4th inst., I submit +the subjoined remarks on the following questions:-- + +I. "To what extent are the lead, and other mines, worked in our western +country, either by the United States' government, or by individuals?" + +In the extensive region to which this inquiry has allusion, are found +numerous ores, salts, ochres, and other minerals; and the catalogue is +daily increasing, by the discovery of new substances, which promise to +become important to the commerce of the western country; but the only +mines worked are those of lead, iron, and coal. + +The lead-mines are situated in Missouri Territory, (formerly Upper +Louisiana,) and extend on the western bank of the Mississippi for a +distance of about one hundred miles, by forty in width, comprising the +present counties of Washington, St. Genevieve, Jefferson, and Madison. +The first lead-ore was discovered by De Lochon, La Motte, and others, +acting under the authority of the Company of the West, as early as 1720. +Since which period, the number of mines has been annually increasing by +new discoveries, under the jurisdiction which has been successively +exercised over that country by France, Spain, and the United States. The +number of mines now worked is forty-five; thirty-nine of which are in +Washington county, three in St. Genevieve, one in Madison, and two in +Jefferson. The quantity of lead annually smelted from the crude ore, I +have estimated at three million pounds; and the number of hands to whom +it furnishes employment, at eleven hundred. A considerable proportion of +these are, however, farmers, who only turn their attention to mining a +part of the year, when their farms do not require their labor; the +residue are professed smelters and miners, including blacksmiths and +others, whose services are constantly required. The price of lead at the +mines is now four dollars per cwt. It is worth four dollars and fifty +cents on the banks of the Mississippi, at St. Genevieve and Herculaneum, +and is quoted at seven dollars in Philadelphia. The ore exclusively +worked is the common galena, or sulphuret of lead, with a broad +glittering grain. It is found in detached pieces and beds in red clay, +and in veins in limestone rock, accompanied by sulphate of barytes, +calcareous spar, blende, quartz, and pyrites. It melts easily, yielding, +in the large way, from sixty to seventy-five per cent. of pure metal. By +chemical analysis I procured eighty-two per cent. of metallic lead from +a specimen of common ore at Mine à Burton. The residue is chiefly +sulphur, with a little carbonate of lime and silex. It contains no +silver, or at least none which can be detected by the usual tests. + +All the lead smelted at these mines is transported in carts and wagons +to the banks of the Mississippi, and deposited for shipment at +Herculaneum or St. Genevieve. The different mines are situated at +various distances, from thirty to forty-five miles in the interior, and +the cost of transportation may be averaged at seventy-five cents per +cwt. In summer, when the roads are in good order, it may be procured at +fifty cents; but in the spring and fall, when the roads are cut up, it +will cost one dollar. The transportation from Herculaneum and St. +Genevieve to New Orleans, may now be procured at seventy cents per cwt. +This is less than the sum paid, previous to the introduction of +steamboats on the Mississippi and its tributary streams. Hence, it costs +more to convey a hundredweight of lead forty miles by land, in wagons +and carts, than to transport the same one thousand miles (the distance +from Herculaneum to New Orleans) by steamboats. An improvement of the +streams of the mine country, so as to render them navigable at all +seasons for keel-boats and barges, is therefore a subject of the first +moment. The Maramec river, a stream of one hundred and eighty miles in +length, and a hundred yards wide at its mouth, which enters the +Mississippi eighteen miles below St. Louis, draws its waters from the +mining counties of Washington, Jefferson, St. Genevieve, and the +unincorporated wilderness on the south-east, and the fertile counties of +Franklin and St. Louis on the north-west; and its south-eastern +tributaries meander throughout the mine tract. The principal of these +are Grand river and Mineral Fork, which are navigable in spring and fall +for keel-boats of a small size, and might, I believe, be rendered so +throughout the year, at an inconsiderable expense. + +The lead-mines are exclusively worked by individuals, either under the +authority of leases obtained from the United States for a limited time; +on lands which were granted by the French or Spanish, and the titles to +which have been subsequently confirmed by the United States; on +unconfirmed lands; or in violation of existing laws. + +There are few sections of the valley of the Mississippi which are not +characterized by iron and coal. Iron-ore is abundant on the Ohio and its +tributaries, particularly on the Alleghany, Monongahela, and Muskingum. +It is worked at several foundries in the counties of Fayette, Armstrong, +and Alleghany, in Pennsylvania. The most noted furnaces are at +Brownsville, from which the extensive foundries at Pittsburgh are +chiefly supplied with pig-iron. It is also worked at Zanesville, on the +Muskingum, and on Brush creek, in Ohio; and a foundry at Cincinnati, and +another at Louisville, in Kentucky, are supplied with pig-iron from the +latter place. The ore is chiefly of that kind called the argillaceous +oxide, and produces iron which is well adapted for steam-engine +machinery, and for hollow-ware. + +Stone-coal, of an excellent quality, is abundant at Pittsburgh, where it +is largely consumed in iron-foundries, glass-furnaces, and other +manufactories, and also in private dwellings. The most extensive pits or +galleries are situated immediately opposite the city, on Coal Hill, +where it has been pursued into the hill eight or nine hundred yards. It +is found breaking out on the banks of the Alleghany at several places, +at and near Kittaning, where beds of it have been opened; and I have +even observed traces of it in the vicinity of Olean, near the head of +Genesee river, in the State of New York. On the Monongahela it extends +by Williamsport, Brownsville, and Greensburgh, to the vicinity of +Morgantown, in Virginia; and such is the abundance of this mineral, and +the uniformity and regularity which the geological structure of this +part of the country presents, that there is no considerable section of +it, within a circle of two hundred miles in diameter around Pittsburgh, +which does not afford beds of good inflammable coal. Pursuing the Ohio +down from Pittsburgh, it is successively worked at Wellsburg, Wheeling, +Gallipolis, and Maysville. In Illinois, on Great Muddy river, and at +Alton; in Missouri, at Florissant, and on Osage river; and in Arkansas, +on the Washita river; this valuable mineral has also been found. + +II. "What mines have been discovered?" + +V. "Where are the most valuable mines to be found in the western +country?" + +The reply to these inquiries has been, in part, anticipated by the +preceding details. Lead and other mines are, however, found in several +other sections of the western country. An extensive body of lead-ore is +found near Prairie du Chien, on the west bank of the Mississippi, about +five hundred miles above St. Louis. The ore is in the state of a +sulphuret, is easily reduced, and yields about sixty-two and a half per +cent. of metal. These mines are worked in an imperfect manner by the +savages, the Sacs and Foxes, the original owners of the soil; and +considerable quantities are annually brought down to St. Louis by the +north-west traders. Lead-ore is also found on the river Desmoines of +the Mississippi, where it was formerly worked by the French--on the +Osage, Gasconade, and Mine river of the Missouri; on the White river and +its tributaries; on the St. Francis; and on the Arkansas, where it is +combined with a small proportion of silver. It is also found at +Cave-in-Rock, Gallatin county, Illinois, accompanied by fluor spar; at +Drennon's Lick and Millersburgh, in Kentucky; and on New river, at +Austinville, in Wythe county, Virginia. At the latter place, it has been +worked without interruption for nearly fifty years; and the mines still +continue to be wrought. The ore is galena, accompanied by the carbonate +of lead, and the earthy oxide of lead; the latter of which is worked in +the large way, as is said, to a profit. + +Zinc is found in Washington county, Missouri, in considerable +quantities; but only in the state of a sulphuret. + +Copper has been found in small masses, in a metallic state, on Great +Muddy river, and at Harrisonville, Monroe county, Illinois. A grant of +land made to P. F. Renault, in 1723, at Old Peoria, on the Illinois +river, specifies the existence of a copper-mine upon it; but the most +remarkable bodies of copper which the globe affords, are stated to exist +on the western shores of Lake Superior, and on the Upper Mississippi. It +is found in the metallic state, but accompanied also, as is said, by the +sulphuret and carbonate of copper. The ores stretch over a very +extensive region, and have been traced as low as the falls of St. +Anthony. There is, indeed, reason to believe that copper is disseminated +from the west bank of Great Muddy river, in Illinois, in a north-west +direction, to the western shore of lake Superior, as all the streams, so +far as observed, which flow either north or south at right angles with +such a line, afford traces of copper. Thus, the Kaskaskia, the Illinois +and its tributaries, the St. Peter, Wisconsin, and the southern forks of +the Wabash and Miami, all furnish specimens of copper, as well as lead, +zinc, and iron. An attempt was made by President Adams to explore the +copper-mines of the north-west; but I know not what success attended the +undertaking. Considering the certainty with which all travellers, since +the days of Carver, have spoken of the existence of these mines, with +the daily concurrent testimony of traders from that quarter, and their +great importance in a national point of view, it is matter of surprise +that they have been so long neglected. Is not the present an auspicious +time for authorizing a mission into that quarter, for the purpose of +exploring its physical geography? + +Iron is a mineral common to all parts of the western country. One of its +most remarkable localities is the head of the river St. Francis, in +Missouri Territory, where it extends through a considerable part of +Madison and Washington counties. The most noted body is called the Iron +Mountain, and is situated about forty miles west of the Mississippi, in +Bellevieu, Washington county. The ore is here found in immense masses, +and forms the southern extremity of a lofty ridge of hills, which +consists chiefly of red granite, but terminates, in a rich alluvial +plain, in a mass of solid ore. It is chiefly the micaceous oxide, +accompanied by the red oxide, and by iron-glance. It melts very easily, +producing a soft, malleable iron. + +Coal is not less common, and may be considered among those extensive +mineral formations which stretch, in so remarkable a manner, throughout +the vast basin included between the Alleghany and Rocky mountains. Salt +and gypsum may also be referred to the same great geological formations, +as they are to be traced, accompanying each other, from the western +section of New York, to the southern banks of the Arkansas, where +immense quantities of salt and gypsum exist. Clay, flint, ochre of +various kinds, saltpetre, alum, reddle, soapstone, plumbago, oil-stone, +marble, serpentine, &c., may be enumerated among the useful minerals of +less importance, which characterize that region. + +III. "To what extent and advantage do you think the mines might be +worked, under proper management and superintendence?" + +IV. "Are the laws of Congress, which have been passed in relation to our +lead-mines, salutary in their operation?" + +I have stated the amount of lead annually produced by the Missouri mines +at three millions of pounds, which, on reflection, I think is +sufficiently high. But there are numerous difficulties opposed to the +successful progress of mining in that country, by the removal of which, +the amount would be greatly augmented. Some of these difficulties arise +from the peculiar nature of the business, from a want of skill, or of +mining capital in those by whom mining operations are conducted; but by +far the greatest obstacle results from the want of a systematic +organization of the mining interest by the United States, or from +defects in existing laws on the subject. + +Immediately after the occupation of Louisiana by the United States, +inquiry was made into the situation and extent of the mines; and a law +was passed, reserving all mines discovered on the public lands, and +authorizing the territorial executive for the time being to lease out +such mines for a period of three years. A radical defect in this law +appears always to have been, that there was not, at the same time, +authorized the appointment of a specific agent for the general +management and superintendence of mines. Such an officer has long been +called for, not less by the public interest, than by the intelligent +inhabitants of the western country, who feel how nearly a proper +development of its mineral wealth is connected with their individual +prosperity and national independence. The superintendent should reside +in the mine country, and such a salary should be attached to the office +as to induce a man of science to accept it. His duty should be to report +annually to Congress the state of the mines, their produce, new +discoveries, and proposed alterations in existing laws. He should lease +out and receive rents for the public mines--prevent the destruction of +timber on mineral lands, and the working of mines without authority, and +should be charged with the investigation of the physical and +geographical mineralogy of the country. At present, the most flagrant +violations of the laws are practised--mines are worked without +leases--wood is destroyed on lands which are only valuable for the wood +and the lead-ore they contain; and the government derives but a small +revenue from those celebrated mines, which, whether we consider their +vast extent, the richness of the ore, or the quantity of metal they are +capable of annually producing, are unparalleled by any other mineral +district in the world. + +There is another feature in the existing law, which is not beneficial in +its operation. It is that clause restricting the terms of leases to +three years. To embark in mining operations with profit, it is necessary +to sink shafts and galleries, build engines, and erect other necessary +works, which are, in some degree, permanent in their nature, and require +much time and expense in their completion. A considerable part of the +period must, therefore, elapse before the mine can be put in a state for +working; and no sooner is that done, and it begins to afford a profit, +and promises a reward for the expense incurred, than the expiration of +the lease throws all these works into the hands of some new adventurer, +or more successful applicant. This prevents many from engaging in mining +on the public lands, and especially those who would be best able to +prosecute the business; and of the number who take leases, a great +proportion continue to pursue the desultory method of mining in +alluvial[20] ground, introduced at an early period by the French, but +which is attended with very great uncertainty. + +Improvements remain also to be introduced in regard to the processes of +mining, the furnaces employed, and the method of raising the ore. +Inseparable from this subject is the distribution of more enlarged +practical and scientific views of mining and minerals generally, which +might, in a great degree, be effected by the dissemination of practical +treatises on the subject, or by the employment of experienced and +skilful miners from Europe. + +When such improvements shall be effected, with others to which it is not +necessary here to advert--when miners are properly secured in the object +of their pursuit, either by permanent purchases from government, or by +leases for a long period of years--and when the facilities for +transportation which that country is destined to afford, by the improved +navigation of its streams, and by the introduction of turnpikes, roads, +and bridges, are introduced, there is reason to conclude that the +annual amount of lead produced will far surpass the proceeds of those +mines under the present arrangement, and, indeed, it is impossible to +calculate the extent to which it may be carried. It is, perhaps, a +moderate estimate to say, that they are capable of being made to yield, +by judicious management, six millions of pounds of lead per annum, and +that they will furnish employment to three thousand hands. + +During my late tour throughout the western country, including nearly a +year's residence in the interior of Missouri, I devoted much time to +this interesting subject, and have been enabled to collect a body of +facts on the physical resources and character of that country, and +particularly of its mines and minerals, which it is my design to lay +before the public. I must, therefore, refer you to this work, which is +now in press, for further details on this subject, and, in the mean +time, I beg your indulgent perusal of this hasty outline. + + With respect, Sir, + Your obedient servant, + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[20] This word is used in its common acceptation in 1819. + + + + +GEOGRAPHY. + +MISSOURI. + + +When Louisiana was admitted into the Union as an independent State, all +that part of the territory situated north of 33° north latitude, and +formerly known as Upper Louisiana, was erected into a separate +territorial government, under the name of Missouri. This term is the +name of a tribe of Indians who formerly dwelt near the Missouri river. +The Territory also included those boundless plains and unexplored +countries stretching from north to south, at the foot of the Rocky +mountains, and which pass into the province of Texas on the south, and +are bounded by the western line of Louisiana on the east. In the month +of March of the present year, the southern part of Missouri Territory, +including the unincorporated regions on the west and south-west, was +erected into a separate Territory, under the name of Arkansas. The +regions to the north-west may be considered as an unincorporated +wilderness, where the authority of the United States, so far as the +Indian title has been extinguished, is maintained in detached posts and +garrisons, under the immediate government of military commandants. The +bounds of Missouri, as designated in the late law respecting that +country, are as follows: beginning on the Mississippi river, in latitude +36° north, and running due west on the latitude line to the river St. +Francis, thence up that river to 36° 30' north latitude, thence west to +a point due south of the mouth of the river Kanzas, thence north to a +point opposite the mouth of the river Desmoines, thence east to the +Mississippi river, and down the middle of that river to the place of +beginning. + +It embraces some of the most prominent geographical features of the +western country, and, from the meeting of such mighty streams on its +confines, and its relation to all the country situated north and west of +it, must become the key to all the commerce of those regions, and is +destined to have a commanding influence on the surrounding States, and +on the political character and mutations of that country. It is bounded +by the States of Illinois and Kentucky, from which it is separated by +the Mississippi river on the east and north-east, and by the Territory +of Arkansas on the south. + +The country west of the Mississippi differs, in some respects, from any +other section of the western country, and affords a variety in its +physical aspect which is nowhere else to be met with. A great proportion +of the lands in this Territory are of the richest kind, producing corn, +wheat, rye, oats, flax, hemp, and tobacco, in great abundance, and in +great perfection. The lands bordering on the Missouri river, as far as +the Territory extends, are rich beyond comparison. They consist of black +alluvial soil, of unknown depth, and partaking largely of the properties +of marl; and the heavy growth of forest trees by which it is covered, +indicates the strength of the soil. As you recede from the banks of the +rivers, the land rises, passing, sometimes by almost imperceptible +gradations, and sometimes very abruptly, into elevated barrens, flinty +ridges, and rocky cliffs. A portion of the Territory is, therefore, +unfit for cultivation, but still serves as the matrix of numerous ores, +which are distributed abundantly in the hills and mountains of the +interior. There is very little land of an intermediate quality. It is +either very rich or very poor; it is either bottom-land or cliff, +prairie or barren; it is a deep black marl, or a high bluff rock; and +the transition is often so sudden, as to produce scenes of the most +picturesque beauty. Hence, the traveller in the interior is often +surprised to behold, at one view, cliffs and prairies, bottoms and +barrens, naked hills, heavy forests, rocks, streams, and plains, all +succeeding each other with rapidity, and mingled with the most pleasing +harmony. I have contemplated such scenes, while standing on some lofty +bluff in the wilderness of Missouri, with unmixed delight; while the +deer, the elk, and the buffalo, were grazing quietly on the plains +below. + +Situated between the 36th and 40th degrees of north latitude, the +Territory enjoys a climate of remarkable serenity, and temperate warmth. +That clear blue sky, so much admired by the aborigines, is +characteristic of the country; and an atmosphere of unusual dryness, +exempts the inhabitants from those pulmonary complaints which are more +or less the consequence of a humid atmosphere. A country so situated +cannot fail to prove genial to the vegetable kingdom. It would be +difficult to point out a section of country which affords a more +interesting field for the botanist. Its prairies and barrens are covered +with a profusion of wild flowers, shrubs, and plants; and its cultivated +fields yield to the hands of the planter, a great proportion of the +useful vegetables of the earth. Corn succeeds remarkably; no country +surpasses the banks of the Missouri for the vigor of its crops. Wheat, +rye, oats, flax, and hemp, are also raised with advantage. Tobacco is an +article recently introduced, but is found to succeed well, and the lands +are said to be well adapted to its growth. Cotton is raised in the +southern part of the Territory for family use, but is not an +advantageous crop for market. The climate and soil are also adapted to +the growth of the sweet or Carolina potato, and to fruit-trees of +various kinds. The peach and the apple are most generally cultivated. Of +wild fruits, the woods afford abundance; among which, the grape, +persimmon, papaw, pecan, and filbert, are conspicuous. Some varieties of +the grape are delicious, and they are very common at the mines, where +the inhabitants prepare a wine from them, which has a pleasant flavor. + +The population of the Territory, exclusive of the aborigines, has been +stated at 46,000, the greatest proportion of whom have emigrated into it +within the last five years. They consist of people from various parts of +the United States and Europe. A large number are from Tennessee, +Kentucky, New York, and New England. The original inhabitants were +French and Spanish. There are few of the latter remaining; but the +former constitute a respectable proportion of the population. + +The principal towns of Missouri are St. Louis, St. Genevieve, St. +Charles, and Franklin. Of a lesser size, are Herculaneum, Potosi, New +Madrid, Cape Girardeau, Jackson, Chariton, Florissant, and Carondelet. +St. Louis is the capital of the Territory, and by far the largest town +west of Cincinnati, Ohio. It consists of about 550 houses and 5000 +inhabitants, and has two banks, three houses for public worship, a +post-office, theatre, land-office, and museum, including forty stores, +with several mills, manufactories, &c. It is eligibly situated on the +western bank of the Mississippi river, eighteen miles below the junction +of the Missouri, and, from its commanding situation, is destined to +become the emporium of the western country. + +Franklin, at Boon's Lick, on the Missouri, has 150 houses, is the +thoroughfare for emigrants to that quarter, and is surrounded by one of +the richest bodies of land west of the Alleghany mountains, to which +emigration is flowing with unexampled rapidity. + +St. Charles, situated twenty-one miles above St. Louis, on the Missouri, +is also a handsome and flourishing town. The same may be said of +Chariton, one hundred and eighty miles above, at the mouth of Chariton +river. + +No country in the world affords such an extent of inland navigation by +its streams, as the basin lying between the Alleghany and Rocky +mountains, whose congregated waters are carried to the ocean by those +stupendous natural canals, the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio, and +Illinois. The Mississippi river itself, in whose current all these +majestic streams unite, and are discharged into the Mexican gulf, washes +the eastern boundaries of the Territory, from the mouth of the river +Desmoines to that of the St. Francis, a distance of more than five +hundred miles. The Missouri, swelled by its great tributaries, the +Yellowstone, Little Missouri, Whitestone, La Platte, Kanzas, and Osage, +passes diagonally nearly through its centre, affording on both sides a +widely-extended tract of soil transcendently rich, and bearing a +luxuriant growth of forest trees and plants, interspersed with prairie. +It is navigable, without interruption, from its junction with the +Mississippi to its falls, a distance of two thousand miles. + +The Ohio is a thousand miles in length from its head, at Pittsburgh, to +its junction with the Mississippi, and, in its passage, successively +washes the shores of Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, +and Illinois--shores which are covered with villages, towns, and +settlements, and lined with an industrious and hardy population. + +The Illinois is also a stream affording a great length of navigation, +and lands of superior quality, and has a natural connection with the +great north-western lakes, into which boats may, at certain seasons, +uninterruptedly pass. + +These rivers, communicating with all parts of the country by their +tributaries, afford the advantages of commercial exchange, trade, and +manufactures, to a greater extent, and a richer description of country, +than is anywhere to be found in Europe, Asia, or Africa. + +Of these advantages, the Territory of Missouri, occupying so commanding +a position in the geography of the country, must always partake largely, +and may, from the wealth already concentrated in its capital, St. Louis, +enjoy almost exclusively the trade of the Missouri and upper +Mississippi. + +The streams which originate within the lines described by the political +boundaries of the Territory, and which, either during their whole +course, or for a considerable distance, meander through it, are the +Osage, the Gasconade, Maramec, Salt river, St. Francis, and Black river. +Of a lesser magnitude are Mine river, Chariton, Currents, Fourche à +Thomas, Eleven-points, and Spring rivers; the four latter running +southerly into the Arkansas Territory, and discharging their waters into +Black river, which is itself a tributary of White river. + +The Osage originates in a prairie country, near the ninety-sixth degree +of west longitude, about one hundred miles north of the Arkansas, and, +after meandering in an east and north-east direction for a distance of +five hundred miles, unites with the Missouri one hundred and thirty +miles above St. Louis. In its course it is swelled by several +tributaries, the principal of which is the Little Osage, its great +south-eastern fork. This river affords, in its whole length, large +bodies of the choicest prairie-land, interspersed with woodland, and +occasionally with hills, and is navigable for moderate sized boats. Its +banks afford exhaustless beds of stone-coal, and some iron and lead is +found, while its upper forks reach into the country of the Pawnees--a +country rich in salt. The Osage Indians inhabit its banks; but a part of +their lands have been purchased by the United States. It is a very +beautiful stream, and situated in a delightful climate; and when its +borders are opened for emigration, and its resources properly drawn +forth, will support a large population, and a profitable trade. Its +fertile soil and genial climate entitle it to the rank of one of the +first tributaries of the Missouri. + +In estimating the length of western rivers, there is one circumstance +which is not properly estimated by an eastern reader. It is their +serpentine course, which is so remarkable, that, in running one hundred +miles on a geographical line, they will, by their great windings, +measure at least double that distance; so that a river stated to be one +thousand miles in length by its banks, cannot be calculated to traverse +a country of more than five hundred miles in extent; indeed, I believe +that a fair average of distances would show the geographical distance to +be less. + +The Gasconade enters the Missouri one hundred miles above St. Louis. Its +length is about two hundred miles, and it is navigable for half that +distance. It is made up of several streams running from a ridge of high +lands, separating the waters which fall on the north into the Missouri, +from those which flow on the south into the Mississippi. Its banks +afford but a small proportion of tillable lands, being bordered with +rocks and sterile hills. The rocks are, however, cavernous, and afford +saltpetre; and the hills are covered by pine timber, which is sawed into +boards and plank. In these two articles, the commerce of this river will +always principally consist. The current is rapid, and affords by its +fall many mill-seats, so that boats and rafts may descend with ease; but +its ascent is attended with great labor. On this stream are already +situated several saw-mills. + +The Maramec also originates in high lands, two hundred and fifty miles +south-west of its mouth, and is separated from the waters of the +Gasconade only by a dividing ridge of land. It is swelled in its course +by a great number of streams, the most noted of which are the Little +Maramec, Bourbuse, Fourche à Courtois, Big river, and Mineral Fork. It +forms a junction with the Mississippi eighteen miles below St. Louis, +where it is two hundred yards wide. It is only navigable about fifty +miles, except in high floods in the spring and fall, when most of its +tributaries may be ascended with boats. This stream waters the country +of the mines, and interlocks, by its affluents, with the Gasconade on +the west, and the St. Francis on the south. The mines of Missouri are +situated on its southern shores. + +Salt river enters the Mississippi one hundred and three miles above St. +Louis, and seventy-three miles above the mouth of the Illinois. The +settlements on its banks are rapidly progressing, and the lands are +noted for their fertility. + +The St. Francis originates, with Big river, in broken lands in the +southern part of Washington and St. Genevieve counties, and joins the +Mississippi five hundred miles below. The most noted bodies of iron-ore +in the western country lie on its head, at Bellevieu. The La Motte +lead-mines also lie along the banks of one of its tributaries. It +affords, in its course, a proportion of excellent land, mixed with some +that is rocky, and bordered near its mouth with much that is swampy, +low, and overflown. A raft of trees, about two hundred and fifty miles +above its mouth, obstructs the navigation, which would otherwise be good +to within fourteen miles of St. Michael, the seat of justice for Madison +county. + +Black river has its origin near the heads of the Gasconade and the +Maramec, and is swelled in its course by the river Currents, Fourche à +Thomas, Eleven-points, Spring and Strawberry rivers, and forms a +junction with White river about forty miles below Poke Bayou, where the +road to Arkansas and Red river crosses it. The banks of Black river, and +of all its tributaries, afford rich alluvial land of more or less +extent; but the intervening ridges are rocky and sterile. + +Although there is much high land in this Territory, there is perhaps +none which, strictly speaking, is entitled to the appellation of a +mountain. A ridge of high land, called the Ozark chain, commencing on +the banks of the Maramec, near the Fourche à Courtois, extends in a +south-west direction to the banks of White river, in Arkansas Territory, +a distance of about four hundred miles, and occasionally rises into +peaks of mountain height. This ridge serves to divide the waters of the +Missouri from those of the Mississippi; the streams on one side running +south into the latter, and those on the other running north into the +former. The body of red granite found on the head of the St. Francis, +lies in mountain masses, and forms, in connection with the accompanying +rocks, some of the most rude and terrific scenery, full of interest in a +mineralogical, as well as a geological point of view. + +In the preceding view of the lead-mines of Missouri, and in the +catalogue of minerals subsequently introduced, I have already +anticipated much that might with propriety be given here; it may +therefore be sufficient to give a brief synopsis of both. + +The lead-mines in this Territory are situated about forty miles west of +the Mississippi, and sixty miles south-west of St. Louis. They occupy a +district of country between the waters of the St. Francis and the +Maramec, one hundred miles in length, by about forty in breadth. The +first lead-ore was discovered by Philip Francis Renault and M. La Motte, +acting under the authority of the Company of the West, about the year +1720; since which period, the number of mines has been greatly augmented +by new discoveries. The quantity of lead annually smelted from the crude +ore, I have estimated at three millions of pounds; and the number of +hands to whom it furnishes employment, at eleven hundred. + +Iron-ore is found in very large bodies in Bellevieu, Washington +county--on Fourche à Courtois, where it is accompanied by manganese--on +Big river--on Platten and Joachim creeks--and on the waters of the St. +Francis and Black rivers. Stone-coal exists in large bodies at +Florissant, and in various places on the Osage river. + +On the banks of the Maramec and the Gasconade are found numerous caves, +which yield an earth impregnated largely with nitre, procured from it by +lixiviation. On the head of Currents river are also found several caves, +from which nitre is procured; the principal of which is Ashley's cave, +on Cave creek, about eighty miles south-west of Potosi. This is one of +those stupendous and extensive caverns which cannot be viewed without +exciting our wonder and astonishment, which is increased by beholding +the entire works for the manufacture of nitre, situated in its interior. +The native nitrate of potash is found in beautiful white crystals, +investing the fissures of the limestone rock, which forms the walls of +this cave; and several others in its vicinity exhibit the same +phenomenon. + +Of the number of inhabitants now resident in the Territory, I have +estimated eleven hundred to be engaged in mining; but the number was +much greater at a former period, one thousand men having been employed +at Mine à Burton alone. The residue of the population are farmers, +mechanics, and manufacturers, including professional men. There is also +another class of society, which I shall notice under the name of +hunters. The farming class is by far the largest, as the fertility of +the soil, and the advantage of procuring lands on easy terms, and in a +mild climate, afford the strongest and surest prospects of gain to the +emigrant. There are probably fewer mechanics than are required by the +existing population. The wages of mechanics of all kinds are very high. +A carpenter or bricklayer cannot be hired for less than two dollars per +day, and often receives more. Other mechanics are also in demand, +particularly in the new settlements; and these are increasing with such +rapidity, as to invite the emigration of skilful and industrious +artisans from all parts, with the sure prospect of success. + +The manufactures of the Territory, in addition to its grand staple, +lead, consist in the distillation of whiskey from rye and corn, in the +flouring of wheat, the fabrication of coarse cotton goods, and tow cloth +in private families, and of patent shot. Some white lead has been made +at St. Louis. A clothier's and fuller's works have been recently +established on Big river; and a number of tan-yards, where raw hides are +manufactured into leather, are in successful operation in various +sections of the country. + +Made up of emigrants from all other parts of the United States, and from +Europe, the inhabitants can hardly be said to have acquired an uniform +character. Hospitality to strangers, enterprise in business, ardor in +the pursuit of wealth, an elevated pride of country, and perseverance +under the pressure of many difficulties growing out of the infancy of +the settlements, are the most conspicuous traits in the character of the +inhabitants west of the Mississippi. They are robust, frank, and +daring. Taught, by the hardships and dangers incident to a frontier +settlement, to depend for security and success upon their own individual +exertions, they rely little upon extraneous help, and feel that true +independence, flowing from a conviction that their own physical +exertions are equal to every call, necessity, and emergency of life. +Observations drawn from habitual intercourse, and from witnessing their +public debates, would also lead us to conclude, that their enjoyments +arise more from those active scenes attendant upon adventures which +require corporeal exertion, than from the arts of peace, refinement, and +intellectual research. + +Duelling is unfortunately prevalent in Missouri; and the practice, while +it continues to receive the sanction of men occupying the first rank in +society, cannot be expected to fall into disrepute, but must, on the +contrary, continue to exert its influence over other classes of the +community, and to involve, in some measure, in its consequences, those +who from principle are opposed to it. + +Those scenes of riot and atrocity, however, which have been imputed to +the inhabitants of the mines by former travellers, do not now exist; the +most beneficial changes having been effected in the state of society in +that country. Emigration has added to the former population an accession +of talents and intelligence, which has served to mark the society at the +mines with much of the hospitality, decorum, and refinements of older +settlements. + +The first inhabitants of this part of ancient Louisiana were French and +Spanish; the former of whom still constitute a considerable proportion +of the population, but of the latter there are very few remaining. The +French language is therefore spoken, in many settlements, almost +exclusively; and many of the Americans have found it advantageous to +acquire a knowledge of that tongue. + +The hunter class of the population is composed of persons from various +sections of the Union, who have either embraced hunting from the love of +ease or singularity, or have fled from society to escape the severity of +the laws, and to indulge in unrestrained passion. Learning and religion +are alike disregarded, and in the existing state of society among the +Missouri hunters, we are presented with a contradiction of the theories +of philosophers of all ages; for we here behold the descendants of +enlightened Europeans in a savage state, or at least in a rapid state of +advance towards it. These hunters are chiefly located on the White, +Arkansas, and Red rivers. Their numbers may be computed at a thousand or +fifteen hundred. The late division of the Territory will throw nearly +all of them into Arkansas. + +The principal tribe of Indians in this Territory are the Osages, a +powerful nation residing on the Osage river. They are remarkable for +their tall stature, and their fine proportions. It is very rare to see +any of them under six feet. They inhabit a delightful country, and are +in amity with the United States. Their chiefs are hereditary, and in war +they fight on horseback. Their warriors are called _braves_, to which +honor no one can arrive without having previously plundered or stolen +from the enemy. Hence, plundering and stealing are acts of the greatest +merit, and demand rewards proportionate to the adroitness or extent of +the act. They are also in the habit of plundering white hunters and +travellers, but are never known to commit murders on such occasions. + +A part of the ancient and once powerful tribes of Shawnees and +Delawares, also inhabit this Territory. They are located on the banks of +Apple creek and Fourche à Courtois. + +Many of the plantations and mines are worked by slaves, and among them +are to be found blacksmiths and carpenters, whose services are extremely +valuable to their masters. The introduction of slavery into this section +of the western country, appears to have taken place at an early day, and +it has led to a state of society which is calculated to require their +continued assistance. + + + + +HOT SPRINGS OF WASHITA. + + +The attention of the traveller in the interior of Missouri and Arkansas, +is frequently arrested by the novelty of the scenery, and the wild and +singularly fanciful aspect of the country; he is often induced to stop, +to survey some cavern, water-fall, high, loose-hanging cliff, or other +natural phenomenon. It is in this light that those natural curiosities, +the Hot Springs of Washita, will be found to reward attention. + +These springs, which have been known for many years, are situated on a +stream called Hot Spring creek, which falls into the Washita river eight +miles below. They lie fifty miles south of the Arkansas river, and six +miles west of the road from Cadron to Mount Prairie, on Red river. + +The approach to the Springs lies up the valley of the creek, which is +partly made up of its waters. On leaving the banks of the Washita, the +face of the country almost imperceptibly changes from a rich soil, +covered with a luxuriant growth of trees, to a sterile mineral tract. On +the right hand rises the Hot Mountain, with the springs issuing at its +foot; on the left, the Cold Mountain, which is little more than a +confused and mighty pile of stones; and the view in front is terminated +by a high point of land, which makes down gradually into the valley, and +separates the creek into two forks, of nearly equal size. + +The Hot Mountain is about three hundred feet high, rising quite steep, +presenting occasionally ledges of rocks, and terminating at top in a +confused mass of broken rocks, with here and there a pine or oak tree. +Its sides, notwithstanding their sterility and the steepness of the +ascent, are covered by a most luxuriant growth of vines, particularly +muscadine, the fruit of which is delicious. + +The Cold Mountain is separated from the Hot by a valley of about fifty +yards wide, through which the creek flows; it is nearly as steep as the +other, about of an equal height, and terminates in the same confused +manner. Some pine trees are found on it, but its sides are destitute of +vegetation. + +The springs issue near the foot of the Hot Mountain, at an elevation of +about ten feet above the level of the creek. They are very numerous all +along the hill-side, and the water, which runs in copious streams, is +quite hot. It will scald the hand, and boil an egg hard in ten minutes. +Its temperature is considered that of boiling water; but Dr. Andrews, of +Red river, tells me that it cannot be reckoned over 200° of Fahrenheit. +There is a solitary spring, situated seventy feet higher than the +others, on the side of the mountain; but it is also of an equal +temperature, and differs in no respect from those below. Evaporation +produces a dense fog, which hangs over the springs, and upon the side of +the hill, looking at a distance like a number of furnaces in blast. It +is probably the condensation of this fog by the cold air at night, which +produces such a rank growth of vines on the side of the mountain, where, +otherwise, there would hardly exist a sign of vegetable life. + +An idea of the beneficial effects of this water is generally prevalent +throughout the Territory, and numbers annually resort to the springs. +They are found serviceable in rheumatisms, paralysis, pains in the +breast, and all chronic and nervous complaints. The method of using the +water is various. Bathing and sweating are generally resorted to. It is +also drunk as hot as can be borne, and is not, like ordinary warm water, +productive of nausea in the stomach. Of the chemical or medicinal +properties of the water, little is known, as no accurate analysis has +been made. The water appears clear, pure, and beautiful; it deposits a +sediment, which is sometimes red, and in other places green or yellow. +Some of the springs have a petrifying quality. The warmth of the water, +acting along the courses of the streams, has a stimulating effect on the +vegetation. + +There is abundance of a beautiful green moss growing in the springs, +near their edges; and their devious courses to the creek below are only +indicated by a more vigorous growth of grass and moss all along the +borders, and a brighter green. + +The mineralogical character of the country around the springs is highly +interesting. Three miles above is a quarry of oil-stone, of a peculiar +and valuable kind. It has a very compact texture, is heavy, translucent, +and gives a fine edge to a razor. The rock formations here are +limestone, slate, and quartz. Veins of white quartz, four or five feet +in width, are found running through the slate rock. Fine crystals of +limpid quartz are also abundant in the neighborhood. At the cove on +Washita river, fifteen miles below the springs, there is a body of +magnetic iron-ore; sulphates of copper and zinc, and sulphuret of iron, +in cubical crystals, occur in the same locality. + +These springs, geologically, exist in a primitive formation, which may +be considered the southern termination of the Ozark chain. Ancient +volcanic forces have raised the beds of slate, sienite, and greenstone, +of the chain, to their present elevations. The waters owe their heat to +these long-extinguished, but deep-slumbering fires, which may hereafter +break out into new activity. + + + + +UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER + + +In order duly to estimate the magnitude, position, character, and +importance of any of our great western rivers, it is necessary to +consider the relation they bear to each other, and to the surrounding +country. A mere topographical description of an isolated section of +country--a mountain, a stream, or a mine--may possess its value; but +without a survey, however cursory, of the contiguous regions, it must +lose much of its interest to the general reader, and much of its utility +to the geographical student. It will be necessary, therefore, to cast a +glance at the extensive country in which this river lies, before its +individual consideration can be profitably commenced. + +In looking on the map of ancient Louisiana, the most striking physical +trait presented is the Rocky mountains, extending from Mexico into the +unexplored regions north and west of lake Superior, with the del Norte, +Red river, Arkansas, Kanzas, La Platte, and Yellowstone, all issuing +from its sides near the same point, and uniting (with the exception of +the former) at different points in the vast basin below, with the +Missouri, the Ohio, and the Mississippi, in whose congregated floods +they roll on to the Mexican gulf. Other streams traverse the country; +but these are the principal rivers of Louisiana, whose heads rest on the +Rocky mountains. Immediately at the foot of these mountains commence the +almost interminable plains of sand, or Kanzian desert, stretching from +north to south for more than a thousand miles, and with an average +breadth of six hundred. To this succeed the highlands and mountains of +the present Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, which preserve a +pretty exact parallelism, from north to south, with the Rocky mountain +chain, and give rise to several rivers of secondary magnitude. This +again is bounded by the alluvial tract of the Mississippi, being the +third grand parallel division presented by the surface of the soil. +Through these, the Red river and the Arkansas hold their unaltered +course, and reach the Mississippi without a fall; while the Kanzas, the +La Platte, and the Yellowstone, bending northward, reach the Missouri, +without meeting any mountains to oppose their progress. The rivers of +secondary magnitude, whose origin is east of the highlands bordering the +western desert, are the Teche, Vermillion, Tensaw, Washita, Little +Missouri, Courtableau, Boeuf, Little Red, Grand, White, Black, Osage, +Maramec, Gasconade, and St. Francis rivers. Of these, White river, a +stream hitherto almost wholly unknown, or only known to hunters, and +which has not received its deserved rank on any existing map, is one of +the most considerable. It was therefore with surprise that I found, on +travelling into those remote regions, so considerable a stream unnoticed +by geographers, or only noticed to attest their want of information +respecting its size, length, tributaries, character, productions, and +importance. I therefore concluded that a summary of these particulars, +as observed by myself during a tour into that quarter, would be an +acceptable piece of service, and, with this view, began these +observations. + +White river originates near the ninety-seventh degree of west longitude, +and about the thirty-sixth of north latitude, and, after running in a +very serpentine course for thirteen hundred miles, enters the +Mississippi fifty miles above the mouth of the Arkansas, and seven +hundred above New Orleans. Its waters, unlike most of the western +rivers, are beautifully clear and transparent, being wholly made up of +springs that gush from the diluvial hills which are found, for more than +half its length, within a few miles of, and often immediately upon, its +banks. So much of the country through which it runs, is, therefore, +sterile and rough; but the immediate margin of the river uniformly +presents a strip of the richest alluvial bottom-land, from a quarter of +a mile to a mile and a half in width. On this, corn, wheat, rye, oats, +flax, hemp, and potatoes, have a vigorous growth; the mildness of the +climate, and the fertility of the soil, combining to render it one of +the most favorable of all countries for the pursuits of agriculture. +Cotton also succeeds on the banks of this river as high up as +settlements have extended, and will hereafter be an important item among +its agricultural productions. The district of tillable land on this +river, like many others west of the Mississippi, is chiefly confined to +its banks. Bordering this, is found a chain of hills on either side, +which sometimes close in upon the river's banks in perpendicular cliffs; +and the adjacent country may in general be considered as sterile. To +this remark, all its tributaries are exceptions; for they invariably +afford, however small, tracts of the most fertile land, covered with a +heavy growth of forest trees and underbrush. The cane is also common to +this stream in its whole course, and affords a nutritious food for cows, +horses, and hogs, who are fond of it, and fatten upon it. This plant +being an evergreen, cattle and horses may feed upon it all winter; and +it is accordingly given to them, as a substitute for hay, by the Indians +and hunters. + +The only inhabitants on the upper part of White river, so far as +inhabitants have penetrated, are hunters, who live in camps and log +cabins, and support themselves by hunting the bear, deer, buffalo, elk, +beaver, raccoon, and other animals, which are found in great plenty in +that region. They also raise corn for bread, and for feeding their +horses. They seldom, however, cultivate more than an acre or two, +subsisting chiefly on animal food and wild honey, and pay no attention +to the cultivation of garden vegetables, if I except some cabbages, +noticed at a few habitations. When the season of hunting arrives, the +ordinary labors of a man about the house and cornfield devolve upon the +women, whose condition in such a state of society may readily be +imagined. The inhabitants, in fact, pursue a similar course of life with +the savages, having embraced their love of ease, and their contempt for +agricultural pursuits, with their sagacity in the chase, their mode of +dressing in skins, their manners, and their hospitality to strangers. + +The furs and peltries which are collected during repeated excursions in +the woods, are taken down the river at certain seasons in canoes, and +disposed of to traders, who visit the lower parts of this river for that +purpose. Here they receive, in exchange for their furs, woollen cloths, +rifles, knives, hatchets, salt, powder, lead, iron for horse-shoes, +blankets, iron pots, shoes, and other articles of primary importance in +their way of life. Those living near the cultivated parts of Lawrence +county, in Arkansas Territory, also bring down, in exchange for such +articles, buffalo beef, pork, bears' meat, beeswax, and honey, which are +again sold by the traders along the banks of the Mississippi, or at New +Orleans. Very little money is paid, and that in hard cash only; no +bank-bills of any kind being taken in that quarter. I happened to be +present, on my return from the head-waters of White river, at one of +these exchanges, where a further opportunity was offered of observing +the manners and character of these people. Bears' meat was sold at $10 +per cwt.; buffalo beef at $4; cows' beef at $3; pork, in the hog, at $3 +50; venison hams at 25 cents each; wild turkeys, the same; wild honey at +$1 per gallon; beaver fur, $2 per lb.; bearskins, $1 50 each; otter +skins, $2; raccoon skins, 25 cents; deerskins, 25 cents per lb. These +prices were considered high by the purchaser; but they were only +nominally so, as he paid them off in articles at the most exorbitant +rates. Common three-point or Mackinaw blankets were sold at $8 each; +butcher-knives at $2; rifle-locks at $8; common coarse blue cloth at $6 +per yard; coffee at 75 cents per lb.; salt at $5 per bushel; lead at 25 +cents per lb.; gunpowder at $2 per lb.; axes at $6 each; horseshoe-nails +at $3 per set, &c. The trade of this river is consequently attended with +profits which amply repay the risks and fatigues incident to a voyage in +that quarter. Vast quantities of furs and skins are annually brought +down this river, with some beeswax, honey, beef, bacon, &c.; and +whenever the hunter population yields to the farming and mechanical +class, the list of its productions will be swelled by corn, rye, wheat, +oats, flax, hemp, and cotton; a sufficiency of each of which has already +been raised, to show that the climate and soil are well adapted to their +culture. Its mineral products are also worthy of attention. Iron-ore, +lead, zinc, and manganese, have already been discovered; and among its +earthy minerals may be enumerated marble, agate, jasper, hornstone, and +rock crystal; specimens of which, with some others, I picked up during +my journey there. Caves with nitre are also common; and large forests of +pine timber, which will be wanted in the progressing settlements on the +Mississippi, are situated on its northern tributaries, and may be +floated down at an inconsiderable expense. + +White river runs through a section of country which, according to a +recent political division, belongs chiefly to the Territory of Arkansas; +but several of its tributaries originate in Missouri, the chief of which +are James river, Great North Fork, or Pine river, and Black river, with +its auxiliaries--Currents, Fourche à Thomas, Spring, Eleven-points, and +Strawberry rivers. + +About a hundred and fifty miles below the Pawnee mountains, the main +south fork of White river is joined by the War Eagle and Osage forks; a +region remarkable for the abundance of beaver found in its streams. In +the course of the succeeding two hundred miles, it is joined by King's +river and Tower creek on the south, and by Roaring fork and James river +on the north; the latter being by far the largest stream it has thus far +received, and contributing nearly as much water as all the others put +together. From the mouth of James river to its junction with the +Mississippi, it is successively joined by Long, Bull, Swan, Beaver, and +Big creeks, by the Little and Great North Forks, Black and Cash rivers, +on the north; and on the south by Bear and Crooked creeks, Buffalo Fork, +and Little Red river; and it is finally connected with the Arkansas +river by a natural canal called the _cut-off_, about thirty miles above +its junction with the Mississippi, which affords a navigable water +communication at all seasons. Many of the above tributaries are streams +of no ordinary magnitude, and afford boat navigation for many hundred +miles; they are all characterized by tracts of rich alluvial lands on +their banks. James river, Buffalo Fork, Great North Fork, Black river, +and Little Red river, merit individual attention. + +James river originates in the Ozarks, a few miles south of the +Gasconade, in Missouri Territory, and, after running in a south-west +direction for two hundred miles, in the course of which it is swelled by +Findley's river, and by other streams, forms a junction with White river +a thousand miles above the mouth of the latter. Its waters are as pure +as crystal; it lies under a climate the most mild, salubrious, and +delightful; and on its banks are situated a body of the most fertile and +beautiful lands which the whole valley of the Mississippi affords. The +timber on its banks is abundant; a remark which cannot with justice be +made of many parts of the adjacent country, and nothing can exceed the +vigor and the verdure of vegetable nature on the borders of this +beautiful stream. Prairies are also found within a mile of its western +banks, and extend towards the Grand Osage, as far as the eye can reach, +level as a graduated plain, and waving with tall grass, on which the +elk, the buffalo, and the deer, feed in countless numbers. + +Findley river forms a junction with this stream, near the centre of this +choice body of land, and about one hundred miles above its mouth. +Twenty miles above the junction of these streams, on the immediate banks +of James river, are situated some valuable lead-mines, which have been +known to the Osage Indians, and to a few White river hunters, for many +years. The Indians have been in the habit of procuring lead for bullets +at that place, by smelting the ore in a kind of furnace, made by digging +a pit in the ground, and casing it with some flat stones, placed so as +to resemble the roof of a house inverted; such is the richness of the +ore, and the ease with which it smelts. The ore has not, however, been +properly explored, and it is impossible to say how extensive the beds or +veins may prove. Some zinc, in the state of a sulphuret, is found +accompanying it. There is not one inhabitant on all this stream; my own +cabin, erected for a temporary purpose at the mines in January last, +being the only human habitation within two hundred miles of that place. + +Buffalo Fork originates near the north banks of the Arkansas, and, after +traversing a rocky country for about one hundred and eighty miles in a +north-east course, joins White river at the Buffalo Shoals, about seven +hundred miles above the Mississippi. It is a fine region for game, and +affords some good lands. + +The Great North Fork, or Pine river, is a stream of two hundred miles in +length, and a hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its waters are clear, +being entirely made up of springs, which are numerous all along its +banks; but the navigation is interrupted by rapids. It originates with +James river and the Gasconade, in a ridge of high land, which throws a +part of its waters into the Missouri, and a part into the Mississippi, +the streams running in opposite directions. In travelling into that +country, I accidentally arrived at the extreme head of this river, where +it consists only of some drizzling springs, and pursued it down, in all +its windings, to its junction with White river, about twelve miles below +the mouth of Buffalo Fork. It is bordered on both sides by limestone +bluffs, covered generally with tall pines, and affording some detached +strips of valuable land. On the whole, however, it must be considered a +sterile region, which will never admit of a dense population. The +bottoms are overrun by cane and brier, which render travelling extremely +fatiguing. + +This stream appears generally to have been considered by geographers as +the head of White river, which is accordingly, on most maps, made to +originate at this place. The error has been, in some degree, corrected +in Robinson's new map of Louisiana, lately published at Natchez, which +may be esteemed the best map extant respecting that section of country. +He calls it Pine river. + +Black river is a large, deep, and gentle stream, composed of numerous +auxiliaries, which draw their waters from the counties of Wayne, New +Madrid, and Lawrence; the two former lying in Missouri Territory, and +the latter in Arkansas. It is navigable with boats of the largest +burden, at all seasons of the year, for more than one hundred miles. +Little Black, Currents, Fourche à Thomas, Eleven-points, Spring, and +Strawberry rivers, are all streams of considerable size, coming in on +the west, and deserve particular notice on the future maps of that +country. Their banks afford choice bodies of fertile lands, which are +already the seat of many plantations and farms, where corn, rye, wheat, +oats, flax, hemp, and cotton, are raised in the greatest perfection, and +the settlements are rapidly increasing. Considerable quantities of beef +and pork are also put up for the New Orleans market, every facility +being afforded by the luxuriance of grass in the woods, and the +abundance of acorns in the fall, for raising and fattening hogs and +cattle. Lawrence county is generally considered among the first farming +districts west of the Mississippi. Davidsonville, the seat of justice +for this county, is situated on the west bank of Black river, at the +junction of Spring river. The settlements on Strawberry river, on the +Currents, Fourche à Thomas, Poke Bayou, and other places, are in a +flourishing condition. + +Little Red river issues near the sources of Buffalo Fork, and runs +parallel with the Arkansas for a great distance, but inclines gradually +to the north-east, and joins White river about two hundred miles above +its mouth. It affords a considerable body of choice land, but is subject +to very sudden rises, which overflow its banks, and have retarded, to +some extent, the further settlement of its valley. + +Such are the principal tributaries of White river; a stream which is +navigable, with keel-boats of thirty tons burden, to the foot of Buffalo +Shoals, a distance of seven hundred miles from its mouth, and may be +ascended with light vessels five hundred miles higher. It draws its +waters from a district of country about three hundred miles in width, by +seven or eight hundred in length, having on its borders and tributaries +large bodies of very rich lands, mixed with much that is poor and unfit +for cultivation; but, taking into view its advantageous situation for +commerce, its political relation to the two Territories, in a part of +each of which it lies, and the extensive bodies of farming-lands on +James river, Buffalo Fork, and Black river, we may anticipate the period +when a large population shall find their support on its banks--when +numerous villages and towns shall decorate its shores, and the +productive labor of its inhabitants swell greatly the commerce of the +western country, while they themselves command an important influence in +its political transactions. + +One of the most interesting events connected with the history of this +river, is the visit paid to it by De Soto in 1542. The place of his +crossing it is not certainly known. + + + + +STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE MISSISSIPPI. + + +Steamboats were first introduced on the Mississippi about 1812; and, +within seven years of that time, not less than fifty boats, of all +classes, had been built. The following list, which I made in 1819, +embraces all the steam-vessels which are known to have been put upon +that stream and its tributaries, prior to that era, and is believed to +give with accuracy their names and tonnage. + +Fulton's first successful experiment in the application of Savary's +steam-engine, as improved by Watt and Bolton, to the propulsion of +vessels, dates in 1807; so that but five years elapsed before the +invention was introduced, and twelve years before it was spread, on the +western waters. The impracticability of navigating those waters by the +force of sails, caused the invention to be hailed there with +acclamation; and this explains the cause of its rapid multiplication. + + No. Names. Tons. No. Names. Tons. + + 1. Etna 200 27. St. Louis Packet 150 + 2. Vesuvius 280 28. Ramapo 100 + 3. Orleans 200 29. Rising States 150 + 4. Alabama 300 30. Maid of Orleans 100 + 5. Columbus 400 31. Hamlet 100 + 6. Tamerlane 200 32. Perseverance 50 + 7. James Ross 250 33. Johnson 75 + 8. United States 500 34. Eagle 100 + 9. Paragon 250 35. Vesta 110 + 10. Thomas Jefferson 200 36. Harriet 40 + 11. Ohio 300 37. Constitution 45 + 12. General Jackson 100 38. Louisiana 60 + 13. Maysville 152 39. Governor Shelby 60 + 14. Exchange 154 40. Franklin 80 + 15. Volcano 140 41. Rifleman 60 + 16. Madison 100 42. Newport 45 + 17. Kentucky 60 43. Expedition 150 + 18. Hecla 100 44. General Clark 150 + 19. Napoleon 200 45. Henderson 150 + 20. Washington 150 46. Tornado 250 + 21. Buffalo 100 47. Elizabeth 175 + 22. James Monroe 70 48. Missouri Packet 100 + 23. Cincinnati 85 49. Post-Boy (for + 24. St. Louis 200 pas'gers only) + 25. General Pike 75 50. Western Engineer 40 + 26. Independence 100 ----- + Total 7,306 + +In addition to these, there are two new boats building at Pittsburgh, +one at Wheeling, one at Steubenville, one at Marietta, two at +Cincinnati, one at Frankfort, two at Shippingport, one at Madison, and +two at New Albany, making a total number of sixty-three. There are also +several more in contemplation, so that it is probable another year will +considerably augment the number. The first steamboat on the western +waters was built at Pittsburgh in 1811, eight years ago. Hence it +appears there has been an average increase of eight boats per annum; but +by far the greatest proportion have been built within the last three +years. + + 7306 tons, at 4 cents per lb. freight up from New Orleans, + amounts to $584,480 00 + 7306 tons, at 1 cent per lb. freight down to New Orleans 146,120 00 + 10 passengers down in each boat, at $60 39,800 00 + 5 passengers up in each boat, at $100 31,500 00 + ----------- + $801,900 00 + +It is presumable that each boat will perform three trips to and from New +Orleans per annum, which will make an aggregate amount of freight and +passage money of $2,405,700 per annum. From this, some idea of the +trade, population, and business of the vast valley of the Mississippi, +may be formed. And let it be remembered, at the same time, that the +transportation of merchandise is not wholly done by steamboats. The Ohio +and Mississippi are still lined with keel-boats and barges; and much of +the produce is still carried to market in flat-bottomed boats, of a +temporary construction, which are not calculated to ascend the stream, +and are therefore generally sold for a trifle, or abandoned. + +The following is extracted from a comparative statement of the increase +of the principal articles of produce which arrived at the New Orleans +market during a period of three years. + + + Productions. 1815. 1816. 1817. + + Bacon and hams, cwt. 7,000 13,000 18,000 + Butter, lbs. 500 1,800 + Cotton, bales 60,000 65,000 65,000 + Corn, bushels 120,000 130,000 140,000 + Flour, barrels 75,000 98,000 190,000 + Molasses, gallons 500,000 800,000 1,000,000 + Pork, barrels 8,000 9,700 22,000 + Sugar, hhds. 5,000 7,300 28,000 + Taffia, gallons 150,000 300,000 400,000 + Tobacco, hhds 5,000 7,300 28,000 + Wheat, bushels 95,000 + Whiskey, gallons 150,000 230,000 250,000 + + + + +ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY. + +SOME ARTICLES OF CURIOUS WORKMANSHIP FOUND IN AN ANCIENT BARROW. + + +An opinion is entertained by many well-informed persons in the United +States, that the country has, at some remote period, been inhabited by a +civilized people, prior to its settlement or subjugation by the savages. +To the many evidences furnished to strengthen this opinion, by the +remnants of fortifications, tumuli, &c., may be added the discovery of +several articles of antiquarian value, and of singular workmanship, of +glass, or antique enamel, lately made on the eastern shores of lake +Erie. + +I have had an opportunity of examining a specimen of these antique +glasses, and, on the authority of my informant, am enabled to remark +that they were taken up about two months ago, from an ancient barrow in +the town of Hamburg, where they were found deposited in an earthen pot. +Contiguous to this pot were also found a skull, and some other human +remains, thought to be of an unusual size. This mound, or supposed +repository of the dead, is situated in an uncultivated part of the town, +and several trees were growing upon it at the time the excavation was +made; some of which were judged to be upwards of two feet in diameter. + +The glass relic which I had an opportunity to examine, (and I am told +they are all alike,) is in the form of a large barrel-shaped bead, +consisting of a tube of transparent green glass, covered with an opaque +coarse red enamel. Its length is nine-tenths of an inch, its greatest +width six and a half tenths of an inch, and the bore of the tube +two-tenths of an inch. Near the circle of the bore of this tube, is an +aperture of the size of a large needle, perforating the tube from one +end to the other. The enamel which covers the tube of transparent glass +appears to have been ornamented with painting, in figures resembling a +spindle, or two inverted sections of a circle; but they are now hardly +perceptible, as the bead appears to have been considerably worn. + +But the circumstance most indicative of art in the making of this bead, +is a species of enamelling which has been performed both on the external +and internal surfaces of the tube, previous to its being covered by the +coarse red enamel. This second enamel is white, and, as the external +surface of the tube was not smooth, but in parallel _strie_ or veins, +exhibits the appearance of a white vine between the green tube and the +red enamel. This enamelling appears to have been done, not by melting on +any vitreous composition, as is practised at the present day, but by the +effect of calcination for some time in a low red heat. This, it is +known, will deprive glass, especially green glass, of its transparency, +and render the surface white to a certain depth. + +The composition of the tube of glass, I have judged to be simply a +silicious sand and an alkali, probably with a small addition of lime or +vegetable ashes. It is hard, and will not receive scratches like the +lead glasses; and I conclude from this circumstance that there is no +lead in the composition. Its color seems also owing to the impurity of +the materials employed, like the common window and bottle glass, and is +probably caused by a minute portion of iron, in the state of an oxide, +combined with the sand and alkali. + +The red enamel covering the tube, and the pot in which these glasses +were found, seem to have been constructed of similar materials, as they +differ very little in color, texture, or other external character. +Probably a very fusible brick-clay, highly impregnated with the oxide of +iron, and pulverized fragments of green glass, are the principal +ingredients of both. The earthen pot is manifestly constructed of +different materials from those employed for brown pottery at the present +period. It is a more imperishable substance, of a close texture, and +vitreous appearance. + +I shall not presume to speculate in opinions which discoveries of this +interesting nature are calculated to create; it may, however, here be +added, that the fabrication of these glasses would suppose a perfection +in the arts, which none of the Indian tribes inhabiting this country at +the period of its discovery, had arrived at. That if introduced by the +French from Canada, in their earliest communications with the Indians +inhabiting the western parts of the State of New York, a sufficient time +would hardly have elapsed for the growth of trees of such size as were +found upon the mound from which these relics were taken. And that, if +not introduced by the French at the period alluded to, we must refer +their manufacture back to a very remote date, and one on which Indian +tradition is wholly silent. + +Since visiting the western country, I have had occasion to notice a +similar discovery on Big river, in the Territory of Missouri. On opening +an Indian grave (or what was considered such) on the bank of this river, +several beads of glass, of a similar character, were found. They were +accompanied by many bones of the human frame, of extraordinary size, and +which indicated, to common observation, a stature of seven or eight +feet in height. The person appeared to have been deformed, either by +birth or accident, as the right jaw-bone ran in a straight line from the +mouth back, while the left preserved the usual curve. The excavation was +made near the edge of the stream, where the soil is a rich alluvion, and +covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, such as are peculiar to the +richest Ohio and Mississippi bottom-lands. We may add, that it +corresponds best with history and probability to attribute these relics +to the early period of the fur-trade. + + + + +ANCIENT INDIAN CEMETERY IN THE VALLEY OF THE MARAMEC RIVER. + + +In the autumn of 1818, the existence of a number of small tumuli, or +antique Indian graves, was made known in the valley of the Maramec. This +discovery was made about fifteen miles south of St. Louis. Curiosity led +several persons to visit the spot and examine them, and my attention was +thus called to the subject. It was conjectured that the bones found in +these graves were the remains of a race of beings much smaller than +those of the present day. + +The essential facts connected with these discoveries, are these:--The +tumuli, which are small, occupy a wood near the dwelling of a Mr. Long. +The attention of this gentleman was arrested by this smallness of +cemeterial dimensions, or place of burial. Drs. Walker and Grayson, of +St. Louis, proceeded to the spot, opened several of the graves, and +examined their contents. The length of the stature of the interred +persons, measured by their stony casings, varied from twenty-three +inches, to four feet two or three inches. But the skeletons, with the +exception of the teeth, were reduced to a complete limy substance, and +their forms destroyed. The graves had originally been cased with rude +flat stones at the sides, and also at the head and feet. A flat stone +had also, in some instances, been laid over the top, and earth piled on +the grave, above the surface of the ground, to the general height of +three feet. This was a characteristic feature, and seemed designed to +mark the locality. In this stony coffin, all the softer and destructible +parts of the body had submitted to decay, with the exception before +mentioned--the teeth. The examination of these became, therefore, the +principal source of interest. They found the enamel perfect, and were +surprised to discover that they were the teeth of rather young persons, +who had, however, passed the age of puberty. The molars and incisors +were of the ordinary dimensions and character of second teeth. The +jaw-bone of the first specimen examined, appeared to have its full +complement, except the dentis sapienta, which physiologists do not +generally recognize until after the ages of eighteen to twenty-three. + +Many graves were examined, which differed more or less in length, +between the extremes stated, but agreed in their general conformity of +parts; from all which, these gentlemen came to the conclusion that the +remains denoted a stature of inferior size, while appearances indicated +a remote antiquity as the epoch of burial, which might as well be +supposed to be five centuries as one. This antiquity was inferred, as +well from the reduction of the bones to their elements, as from the +growth of large trees upon the graves, the roots of which penetrated +into their recesses. + +Upon this exhibition of facts, a legal gentleman[21] of intelligence +calls attention, with great pertinency, to the ancient manners and +customs of the Indians, in the burial of their dead. + +"As yet, I have seen no attempt to account for the size and appearance +of these skeletons, upon any other supposition than that they are the +remains of a people far less in size than any known at the present day. +Unwilling to adopt a belief so contrary to the general order of nature, +and to the history of the human species, so far as it has been +transmitted to us, I shall hazard some conjectures upon the subject, +which I think will, in some measure, tend to dissolve the mystery that +hovers over these bones, and to reconcile their appearance with the +general history of our race. To be sure, Nature, in her sport, has now +and then produced monsters. A taste for the marvellous among travellers +and historians, has occasionally conjured up a race of giants, or a +nation of pigmies; but when the light of truth has reached us from the +distant corners of the earth, where they were said to dwell, we have +found them to assume the size, shape, and attitude of men, and nothing +more. So far as observation or history extends, we find the species +nearly the same in all ages and in all countries. Climate has had some +effect upon the size, and upon the complexion. The excessive cold of the +north has shortened an inch or two the necks of the Esquimaux, and the +heat of the south has colored the African. But what, in this genial +climate, should make dwarfs? It is here, if anywhere, that we should +naturally expect to find giants! All the other productions of nature are +here brought forth in the highest perfection. And shall _man_ here grow +a pigmy? Unless we are ready to adopt the opinion of certain +naturalists, that the human species are the legitimate descendants of +the apes, and that they once wore tails, and were of their diminutive +size--unless we are ready to believe the history of the Lilliputians, +and of Tom Thumb--I think we shall discard the idea of a nation of +dwarfs, as wholly preposterous. But how, on any other supposition, shall +we account for the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long? + +"None of the graves found there exceed four feet in length, many of +them fall short of three, and the teeth found in all of them show that +they contain the remains of human beings who had arrived at years of +maturity. The manners and customs of the Indians with respect to the +treatment of their dead, will, I think, solve all difficulties, and +satisfactorily account for these appearances, without doing violence to +nature. According to the testimony of travellers and historians, it has +been the custom among many tribes of Indians to hang their dead in +baskets upon trees and scaffolds, until their flesh was consumed, and +then to take them down, clean their bones, and bury them. There existed +an order of men among them called _bone-pickers_, with long nails like +claws, whose business and profession it was to clean the unconsumed +flesh from the bones, previous to burial. This custom still exists among +the Indians on the waters of the Missouri, and rationally accounts for +the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long. The bones of a skeleton of +the ordinary size, when separated, would naturally occupy a grave of +three or four feet in length. It appears that in all the graves which +were opened, the bones, except the teeth, were reduced to a chalky +substance, so that it would be impossible to know, with any certainty, +in what state, condition, or form, they were deposited there. These +skeletons are said to rest on their sides. Taking this fact to be true, +it goes to strengthen my ideas on this subject. In burying a corpse, it +is natural, and, so far as we are acquainted, universally the custom, to +bury them with the face upwards. We can look upon our dead friends with +a melancholy complacency--we cast a long and lingering look after them +until they are completely shut from our view in the grave; and nothing +is more hard and heart-rending than to tear our last looks from them. It +is natural, then, that the body should be placed in such a position as +most to favor this almost universal desire of the human heart. But, in +burying a skeleton, it would be as natural to avert the horrid grin of a +death's-head from us. To face the grinning skeleton of a friend, must +fill us with horror and disgust. 'Turn away the horrid sight,' would be +the language of nature. If we adopt my supposition as correct in this +case, all the facts correspond with nature. But if we adopt the opinion +of a recent writer, our conclusions will be at war with nature, reason, +and universal observation." + +The following observations by the Rev. J. M. Peck, of St. Louis, may +also here be added: + +"One grave was opened which measured four feet in length; this was +formed by laying a flat stone at the bottom, placing one on each side, +one at each end, and covering the mouth with another. In the last +circumstance, this grave differed from the others that were opened; the +contents were a full-grown skeleton, with the head and teeth, part of +the spine, the thigh and leg bones, in a tolerable state of +preservation. The leg-bones were found parallel with the bones of the +thighs, and every appearance indicated, either that the corpse had been +entombed with the legs and thighs placed so as to meet, or that a +skeleton had been deposited in this order. The first opinion seems the +most probable, from the fact that a large stone pipe was found in the +tomb, which I understand is now in the possession of Mr. Long." + +Both implements of war, and of domestic use, are buried with the dead +bodies of the Indians; but it admits of a query if they are ever +deposited with the mere skeleton. + +"It is a well-known fact," says Bishop Madison, while writing on the +supposed fortifications of the western country,[22] "that, among many of +the Indian tribes, the bones of the deceased are annually collected and +deposited in one place, that the funeral rites are then solemnized with +the warmest expressions of love and friendship, and that this untutored +race, urged by the feelings of nature, consign to the bosom of the +earth, along with the remains of their deceased relatives, food, weapons +of war, and often those articles they possessed, and most highly valued, +when alive." + +This fact is substantiated from various respectable sources. The pious +custom of collecting the relics of the dead, which accident, or the +events of a battle, might have dispersed through the wilderness, easily +accounts for the graves on the Maramec, as well as explains the origin +of the artificial mounds in the vicinity. If these were opened, there +would be found promiscuously deposited the bones of the aborigines, +which pious veneration, from year to year and from century to century, +industriously collected. The cemetery alluded to, on the plantation of +Mr. Long, may be viewed as the public burial-place of some powerful +nation of the same size, and similar customs, with other Indians. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[21] Rufus Pettibone, Esq., of St. Louis. + + + + +OSAGES. + + +This tribe claims, as original possessors, the territories of the +Ozarks, over which my journeys have chiefly laid. They claim all the +country north of the Arkansas, to the Maramec. The term Ozark appears to +me to be compounded from Osage and Arkansas. + +They are manly, good-looking, stout-limbed men, erratic in their mode of +life, living a part of the year in fixed villages, and roving with their +families through the forests, in search of game, the remainder. Their +territories are immense. + +The Osages, if we may judge from popular opinion, are very much in the +condition of the sons of Ishmael--"Their hand is against every man, and +every man's hand against them." It is remarkable that they possess so +much skill as they do in public negotiations, which they manage with +address, with a bold, direct air, employing enlarged thoughts and +phrases, which are calculated to impress the hearer favorably as to +their mental abilities. + +But little opportunity has been had of personal observation on their +manners and customs. Their mode of encampment has been seen, and is so +arranged as to place the chiefs of the village, or camp, in the position +of honor. It is stated that, at daybreak, a public crier makes +proclamation of the expected events and duties of the day, which, to +ears uninitiated, sounds like a call to prayer. I fancy the prayer of +Indians, if they pray at all, is for deer and buffalo. + +It appears from the manuscript records of General William Clark, at St. +Louis, which I have been permitted to see, that they have a tale, or +fiction, of their origin from a snail and beaver. If this is an +allegory, we are to suppose that persons bearing these names were their +progenitors. I avail myself of the public interpreter of the language to +submit the following vocabulary of it.[23] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[22] See American Philosophical Transactions, Vol. VI. + +[23] Omitted. + + + + +EXTRACTS FROM THE AMERICAN JOURNAL OF SCIENCE. + + Notice of "A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri, including + some Observations on the Mineralogy, Geology, Geography, + Antiquities, Soil, Climate, Population, and Productions, of + Missouri and Arkansas, and other sections of the Western + Country; accompanied by three Engravings. By HENRY R. + SCHOOLCRAFT, Corresponding Member of the Lyceum of Natural + History of New York." 1821. + + +As this work has been more than a year before the American public, and +is already well known, it may seem superfluous to make any remarks upon +it at so late a period. It was our purpose to have given it an early +notice, but circumstances which could not be controlled, prevented. +Still, as it is devoted to subjects which form a prominent object in +this Journal, and is, as far as we are informed, the only elaborate and +detailed account of a mining district in the United States, we are not +disposed to remain silent, especially as the discharge of the duty is +not likely to be painful, either to ourselves or to the author. Reviews +in form, although within the plan of this Journal, do not constitute one +of its most leading objects, and we do not hold ourselves responsible +for analyses or even for notices of new American books, unless they +appear particularly interesting or important, or hold a very intimate +connexion with the great design of our work. + +We have already intimated that we regard Mr. Schoolcraft's work in this +light. We take it for granted that the statements of facts made by this +author, are both faithful and accurate; the information which we have +incidentally derived from other sources, certainly countenances this +impression, but the whole amount of it is small, compared with the +details contained in the present volume. + +Mr. Schoolcraft's opportunities for observation were extensive, +particularly in relation to the mines of lead in the Missouri region. +Among those mines he spent a year. "I have made (says he) a personal +examination of every mine of consequence, with a view to ascertain its +general character and value and its peculiarities. I have travelled on +foot over the whole mine country, exploring its minerals, its geological +structure, its geographical position, soil, climate, productions, towns, +streams, settlements, and whatever else appeared to me to be necessary +to describe, explain and illustrate the subject before me." + +Mr. Schoolcraft appears to have made good use of the advantages which he +enjoyed, and his countrymen are indebted to him for a great amount of +valuable information. He appears also to have studied the observations +of preceding writers, and, with their works before him, it was in his +power to correct errors and to supply deficiencies. + +He has prefixed an historical sketch which we presume will be acceptable +to every reader. The French, as is well known, were the original +discoverers and settlers of the Missouri, and Illinois regions, which +were embraced in their vast scheme of forming a chain of posts and +settlements from the mouth of the St. Lawrence, to that of the +Mississippi. They did not occupy the country of the Missouri and +Illinois till more than a century after the settlement of Quebec, and +about a century before the present period. At that time, (1720,) the +lead mines were discovered by Philip Francis Renault, and M. La Motte, +and by them they were wrought, although they and the adventurers under +them were disappointed in their expectations of finding gold and silver. + +At the end of about half a century, the country passed into the hands of +the Spaniards, and under their dominion, probably about forty years +since, the principal mine was discovered by a man of the name of Burton, +and from him it has derived the name of Mine à Burton. + +It appears that the processes of mining under the Spaniards were very +imperfect, as they obtained only fifty per cent. of lead from the ore, +threw away the lead ashes, and did not attempt any manufactures of shot +or any other articles. They employed only the open log furnace. + +In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., a native of Connecticut, who had been +occupied with lead mines in Wythe county, in Virginia, obtained from the +Spanish government, a grant of a league square in the mining district in +consideration of his introducing a reverberatory furnace. He sunk the +first regular shaft--the mining having, till that time, been prosecuted +solely by open digging, in the manner of quarries. Mr. Austin also +introduced the manufacture of shot, and that of sheet lead soon +followed. About the same time several other American families collected +at the mines, and infused new spirit and enterprise into the mining +operations, so that they were carried on with considerable vigour at the +time when (in 1803) the country was transferred to the United States. +Mr. Schoolcraft, from whom these facts are taken, remarks, that since +1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied--population +has flowed rapidly in--the processes on the ore have been much +improved--better furnaces have been constructed, and "every season is +adding to the number of the mines." "Every day is developing to us the +vast resources of this country, particularly in lead," and the author +expresses his opinion that "the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no +other mineral district in the world." + +From the specimens which we possess of this ore, and from the documents +produced by the author respecting the produce of the mines, we believe +his opinion is correct, especially if we consider the fact that "the +earth has not yet been penetrated over eighty feet;" "we know not what +may be found in the lower strata." "There is reason to believe that the +main bodies of ore have not been hit upon, that they lie deeper, and +that we have thus far been only engaged upon the spurs and detached +masses." + +Mr. Schoolcraft informs us that although the mining business is much +improved, there is still a great deficiency both of capital and of +skill--there is in the whole district but one regular hearth furnace for +smelting, and that not the best;--among forty mines, there are only four +or five regular shafts--there is among all the mines, no engine of any +description for raising water, and some of the richest mines with the +best prospects in view, have been in consequence abandoned. Yet, under +all these disadvantages, the annual produce of the mines is estimated at +three millions of pounds of lead. + +The author suggests the expediency of establishing a school of mines and +minerals in the midst of the mines themselves; this would, without +doubt, be a very proper measure, but in the meantime, skilful practical +miners, and captains of mines, such as are found in every mining +district in Europe, would supply the immediate demands of the country. + +The mining district, formerly called the lead mines of Louisiana, is +situate between the 37th and the 38th degree of north latitude, and +between the 89th and 92d degree of west longitude, covers three thousand +one hundred and fifty square miles--it is from seventy to one hundred +miles long by forty or forty-five, extending in width from the +Mississippi south-west to the Fourche à Courtois, and in length from the +head waters of St. Francis northerly to the Maramec. + +Lead ore is found in almost every part of this district. Mr. Schoolcraft +says, "the general aspect of the country is sterile, though not +mountainous: the lands lie rolling, like a body of water in gentle +agitation. In some places the hills rise into abrupt cliffs, where the +great rock formations of the country may be seen; in others, they run +into level plains--a kind of highland prairie." + +"The soil is a reddish colored clay, stiff and hard, and full of +fragments of flinty stones, quartz and gravel; this extends to the depth +of from ten to twenty feet, and is bottomed on limestone rock. It is so +compact in some places, as almost to resist the pick-axe; in others it +seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and readily penetrated. The +country is particularly characterized by quartz, which is strewed in +detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and is also found +imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called blossom of lead. +Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the surface of the ground, +and occasionally lead ore. Such is the general character of the mineral +hills, which are invariably covered by a stinted growth of oaks." + +Walnut is also found on the hills, and there is a ridge of yellow pine, +not more than six or eight miles wide, running nearly south-east and +north-west, but it is nearly or quite destitute of lead--the mines lie +generally east of it. In summer the flinty aspect of the country is +veiled by a luxuriant growth of grass, which gives it a very pleasing +and picturesque appearance. + +The valleys have a rich alluvial soil, well fitted for cultivation; but +our limits will not allow us to mention the vegetable productions of the +country. This region is well irrigated, and very healthy, being +possessed of a fine climate. Mr. Schoolcraft remarks, that during a +residence of ten months he never heard of a death; the country is free +from the fevers which infest some of the neighboring regions. It seems, +however, that the animals are visited by what is called the mine +sickness. "Cows and horses are frequently seen to die without any +apparent cause. Cats and dogs are taken with violent fits, which never +fail, in a short time, to kill them." It is said that the inhabitants +impute these affections to the sulphur exhaled in smelting the lead, as +the cattle are often seen licking about the old furnaces. But sulphur is +not poisonous either to men or animals. The author imputes it to the +sulphate of barytes, with which the district abounds, which he states is +a "poison to animals." + +The carbonate of barytes is eminently poisonous; but we have never heard +that the sulphate is so. May not the licking around the furnaces expose +the cattle to receive lead in some of its forms, minutely divided? or, +if it be not active in the metallic state, both the oxides and the +carbonate, which must of course exist around the furnaces, would be +highly active and poisonous. Is it not possible, also, that some of the +natural waters of the country may, in consequence of saline or acid +impregnations, dissolve some of the lead, and thus obtain saturnine +qualities? We must allow, however, that we are not acquainted with the +existence of any natural water thus impregnated. + +Among the mineral productions of this region, certainly not the least +remarkable mentioned by Mr. Schoolcraft, is the Iron Mountain, where the +ore is piled in such enormous masses as to constitute the entire +southern extremity of a lofty ridge, which is elevated five or six +hundred feet above the plain: the ore is the micaceous exide, and is +said to yield good malleable iron. + +There is another body of iron ore five miles west of the iron mountain, +scarcely inferior to that mentioned above, and it appears that several +other beds exist in the same vicinity. + +Zinc is abundant, but as the ore is the sulphuret, it is not very +valuable. It is not mentioned that calamine, which is the useful ore of +zinc, has been found. + +As to the geological nature of the country, in which the lead mines are +situate, he informs us that "Bellevue abounds in granite;" that the only +vein of granite rock in the mine country (as far as he had opportunity +to observe) passes across the south-western end of Madison county--runs +into Bellevue--is four or five miles wide, and twenty or thirty miles in +a direction from south-east to north-west. + +The granite is spoken of in another place, (p. 170,) as being a +geological phenomenon, as containing imbedded in it or lying upon its +surface, gneiss, green stone, porphyry, iron ores, &c.; it is spoken of +as a red granite, containing very little mica, and as being used for +millstones. It is mentioned as the "only mass of granite known to exist +between the primitive ranges of the Alleghany and Rocky mountains," and +as being surrounded on all sides, and to an almost immeasurable extent, +with secondary limestone. + +Again, (p. 193,) the granite is cited as the "old red granite in +mountain masses, with some veins of green stone, green stone porphyry, +and gneiss;" it is said to terminate in very rough and broken high +lands. At page 213, it is mentioned, still again, as giving origin to +the river St. Francis, whose "springs gush out among these stupendous +piles of red granite." Besides the ores of iron, lead and zinc, "quartz, +feldspar, shorl, mica, and graphite are among the minerals furnished by +that region," and "green stone, gneiss, and green stone porphyry, are +among the larger masses of rock." The green stone, it seems, "is found +in large isolated fragments, lying promiscuously among the fragments of +granite which have tumbled down from the lofty cliffs above, and is +rendered porphyritic by crystals of green and flesh-colored feldspar." + +We have no right to doubt that the rock described is granite, as the +principal features delineated, correspond with that supposition. As it +is described as being solitary, the only granite between the Alleghanies +and the Rocky mountains, we are led to ask, is it a portion of the +nucleus of our globe, covered on every side, for many hundred miles, +with secondary rocks, and here heaving its head through the +superincumbent strata, and standing alone? But what are we to conclude +of the limestone? We should have liked especially to have had the +relations of this limestone with that remarkable granite region pointed +out. Does this latter repose on the granite, where it dips obliquely +under, as it probably does, in order to find its way beneath the other +rocks, and to vindicate its claim to a fundamental position? But, +perhaps we are asking more than is reasonable, for, it may be that there +are no such sections in the strata as would expose all these facts to +view, and enable the observer to decide. + +These hints we have dropped, not, we trust, from a captious disposition, +but because we have found a real difficulty in conceiving clearly of the +geological nature of this limestone, which, it seems, is the basis of +the lead-mine country, and therefore it is very important that its +characters should be indubitably fixed. We have not been so fortunate as +to see Mr. Schoolcraft's specimens; possibly a view of them would have +rendered the preceding remarks, in part at least, unnecessary. + +Leaving the geological features of the lead-mine district, we proceed to +cite some interesting and important facts from Mr. Schoolcraft's +work:--"The soil," he remarks, "is a reddish colored clay, stiff and +hard, and full of fragments of flinty stone, quartz and gravel; this +extends to the depth of from ten to twenty feet, and is bottomed on +limestone rock. It is so compact in some places as almost to resist the +pick-axe; in others it seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and +readily penetrated. The country is particularly characterized by quartz, +which is strewed in detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and +is also found imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called +blossom of lead. Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the +surface of the ground, and occasionally lead ore. The mineral +productions of the country, in addition to lead, are zinc, iron, ochre, +red chalk, saltpetre, sulphur, alum and salt." + +The ore (the author remarks) is the lead glance, galena, or sulphuret of +lead. It is very rich and beautiful, and specimens in our possession +fully confirm Mr. Schoolcraft's account; they have a very broad and +perfectly foliated fracture, and a high degree of metallic lustre; they +break in cubical fragments, and the minutest portions still retain this +form. + +We have already observed that large fragments are found loose in the +earth: they sometimes weigh four or five pounds; we have such specimens +from these mines; they are of a cubical form, and are surrounded, except +where they have been broken, by an earthy incrustation. + +It is observed that the marly earth thrown out from the pits, enriches +the ground, so that in a few years it is covered with a very rank growth +of trees, vines, &c., and this is a regular characteristic of old +diggings. Innumerable portions of radiated quartz, and sharp fragments +of flinty stones are mixed with the clay, and form the first stratum of +about fourteen inches. The next is of a red clay, and is four or five +feet thick, and less mixed with similar siliceous substances. Then comes +a layer of gravel and rounded siliceous pebbles, about one foot thick, +containing small portions of lead ore. The thickness of the bed of ore +is generally a foot; and the lumps of ore appear to have been rounded by +attrition, like common gravel. "This is the character of what is called +the gravel ore, and no spars are found accompanying it. The greatest +proportion of lead ore is, however, found imbedded in, and accompanied +by, the sulphate of barytes, resting in a thick stratum of marly clay, +bottomed on limestone rock." They invariably arrive at the rock at the +depth of from fifteen to twenty, or sometimes thirty feet; a new process +by boring and blasting is now necessary, and most diggers abandon their +pits rather than prosecute them at this expense. If, however, as there +can be little doubt, the limestone is the real matrix of the lead ore, +the time will come when the present diggings will be considered as +merely superficial beginnings, and the work will be resumed where +hitherto it has been abandoned. It seems that the almost invariable +practice of the miners is, to persevere till they strike the rock, and +then to go and dig elsewhere; they cannot, if disposed, prosecute the +business by levels or galleries, for they are not permitted to carry on +their mining except immediately under the surface that is covered by +their respective leases, or by twelve feet square, which, if unoccupied, +an adventurer may cover by occupancy. Among the substances accompanying +the lead, blende and the sulphate of barytes are said to be very +abundant; the latter in specimens which we have, is particularly +brilliant and white;[24] the quartz is often prettily crystallized, and +is so invariable a concomitant of the ore, that the miners, as we have +before remarked, give it the meaning appellation of mineral blossom. + +A curious fact is mentioned by Mr. Schoolcraft, respecting the Elliott's +mines. "During the remarkable earthquakes of 1812, a fine spring of +water at the mouth of the mines suddenly became warm and foul, and in a +few days dried up entirely, and no water has run there since." +"Illuminations in the atmosphere are frequently observed in this +vicinity on the approach of night."[25] + +It seems there is a considerable quantity of a greyish white sublimate +collected at the log hearth furnaces, and rejected by the workmen upon +the supposition that it is sulphur and arsenic; but Mr. Schoolcraft, by +unquestionable experiments, ascertained that it was lead, as would +appear, in the form of a carbonated oxide. A considerable loss is in +this manner sustained, and in a more advanced state of the metallurgic +operations of these mines, the author's valuable suggestions will not be +neglected. There is one mine (M'Kain's) where the ore is of the +steel-grained variety--it is said to yield less lead, and is inferred to +contain more silver than the common ores; we are aware that this is the +common impression, but our own experiments on different varieties of +lead ore would induce us to think that it cannot be relied upon. We have +examined fine steel-grained ore which contained very little silver; in +one specimen only one five-thousandth part, and in another, and that a +foliated specimen, we found three and a half per cent, of silver. + +The methods of digging for the ore are sufficiently simple. "A pick-axe +and shovel are the only tools used for removing the earth, and the +drill, hammer and priming rod are added when it is necessary to blast." +The process is carried on as in digging a common well. + +We must refer our readers to the book itself for a clear account of the +furnaces and furnace operations, employed for smelting the lead; it will +be the more intelligible, as it is accompanied by two good plates +containing views and sections of the furnaces. A circumstance which +appears very extraordinary is, that the furnaces are most commonly built +of limestone, which is of course calcined, and brought to the condition +of quicklime by a few blasts, and then it crumbles and the furnaces must +be rebuilt. + +The ore yields at first fifty per cent., and then the ashes give fifteen +per cent, more--sixty-five[26] in the whole.[27] + +Custom, says the author, has established a number of laws among the +miners, with regard to digging, which have a tendency to prevent +disputes. Whenever a discovery is made, the person claiming it is +entitled to claim the ground for twenty-five feet, in every direction +from his pit, giving him fifty feet square. Other diggers are each +entitled to twelve feet square, which is just enough to sink a pit, and +afford room for throwing out the earth. Each one measures and stakes off +his ground; and though he should not begin his work for several days +afterwards, no person will intrude upon it. On this spot he digs down, +but is not allowed to run drifts horizontally, so as to break into or +undermine the pits of others. If appearances are unpromising, or he +strikes the rock, and chooses to abandon his pit, he can go on any +unoccupied ground, and, observing the same precautions, begin anew. In +such a case, the abandoned pit may be occupied by any other person; and +sometimes large bodies of ore are found by the second occupant, by a +little work, which would have richly rewarded the labors of the first +had he persevered. + +Mr. Schoolcraft, from various particulars, infers that the average +annual produce of the Missouri lead mines, as mentioned before, is three +million pounds per annum, and the lead was worth in 1819, at the mines, +four cents per pound. For the last three years, up to 1819 inclusive, +the produce of the mines was estimated at three million seven hundred +twenty-six thousand six hundred and sixty-six pounds per annum of pig +lead, which the author supposes to be not more than one half what the +mines are capable of yielding. + +The number of miners is between eleven and twelve hundred, and the +number of hands employed in labor at different mines is from twenty to +two hundred and forty, including in both cases persons of all +descriptions. + +Many miscellaneous topics connected with the general subject of his +work, are introduced by Mr. Schoolcraft, such as the sections relating +to the manufactures, and uses of lead, &c., but it is not our object to +advert to these topics. + +Among the miscellaneous mineral productions of the western regions, +there are some that are interesting; and it will be seen from the +author's table of minerals, that the list is various. There are several +caverns which produce nitrate of potash by the usual treatment; and +Ashley's Cave, about eighty miles from Potosi, is said to be one of +stupendous size, and to "afford native nitrate of potash in beautiful +white crystals." + +The novaculite is mentioned as occurring on Washita, as described by Mr. +Bringier in the present number. + +Steatite exists in abundance at the falls of St. Anthony, on the +Mississippi, and is used by the Indians for pipes. + +The fluate of lime, near Shawneetown, was described in the first volume +of this journal. + +Among other minerals, Mr. Schoolcraft mentions chalcedony in several +varieties, earthy oxide of lead, native copper, alum, manganese, +opalized and agatized wood, opal, jasper, coal, gypsum, native epsom +salts, pumice stone, agate, onyx, burr millstone, native iron, &c.; for +the localities and descriptions of which, we must refer to the book +itself. + +Those facts of Mr. Schoolcraft's volume which relate to statistical and +political topics, do not come within the plan of these remarks. + +During our cursory notice of this work, we have cited a number of the +most prominent facts which it contains, both because they are in +themselves important, and because we were willing to call the attention +of our readers both to them, and to the volume in which they are +contained. Both are, in our view, entitled to great respect; and we +confess ourselves very much indebted to Mr. Schoolcraft for a great mass +of valuable information, which, in a connected form, is, we believe, +nowhere else to be found. His statements (as regards the most valuable +part) are drawn from his own research and observations, and have +evidently been the result of much effort, and of no small share of +fatigue and personal privation. We trust that so valuable a work will +not stop with a single edition, and perhaps we might venture to suggest +to the author, that in a second, he might advantageously condense into +one view some facts which are several times repeated in different parts +of the volume--such as those respecting the granite and its connected +rocks, the lead ore and its associated minerals, &c. + +We consider the present work as an acquisition to our means of +information respecting our mineral resources, and believe that it must +be a regular volume of reference for all those who are interested in the +investigation of these subjects. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[24] It is mentioned by the author, as a chemical test or reagent: it +may, by decomposing it by ignition with charcoal, or with an alkaline +carbonate, be made to afford its earth for the preparation of barytic +tests, but we are not aware that it is itself ever used as a test. + +[25] They are attributed by the author to phosphorus. Is it supposed to +be in the form of phosphuretted hydrogen? May not these be electrical +phenomena? + +[26] According to Dr. Meade, the Missouri ore affords only a trace of +silver. (See Bruce's Minl. Journal, vol. 1, p. 10.) + +[27] Mr. Schoolcraft thinks it may yield seventy per cent.--it gave him +by analysis eighty-two per cent. + + +THE END. + + + + + +--------------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the | + | original document have been preserved. | + | | + | Typographical errors corrected in the text: | + | | + | Page 24 musquitoes changed to mosquitoes | + | Page 64 develope changed to develop | + | Page 94 M'Gary's changed to M'Garey's | + | Page 103 20th changed to 29th | + | Page 110 brandt changed to brant | + | Page 113 Gasconage changed to Gasconade | + | Page 139 Quiquate changed to Quiguate | + | Page 155 emigate changed to emigrate | + | Page 155 Philips changed to Phillips | + | Page 156 Peora changed to Peoria | + | Page 160 scientic changed to scientific | + | Page 161 borers changed to borders | + | Page 170 M'Kane's changed to M'Kain's | + | Page 186 octohedral changed to octahedral | + | Page 191 precicision changed to precision | + | Page 196 develope changed to develop | + | Page 207 1719 date in paragraph 39a may be 1749 | + | Page 208 irridescence changed to iridescence | + | Page 211 octohedrons changed to octahedrons | + | Page 217 annnally changed to annually | + | Page 246 some changed to same | + | Page 254 coutained changed to contained | + +--------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Scenes and Andventures in the +Semi-Alpine Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas, by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS *** + +***** This file should be named 36675-8.txt or 36675-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/6/7/36675/ + +Produced by Julia Miller, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Scenes and Adventures in the Semi-Alpine Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas + +Author: Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +Release Date: July 9, 2011 [EBook #36675] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<br /> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> + +<div class="img"> +<a href="images/frontis.jpg"> +<img border="0" src="images/frontis.jpg" width="75%" alt="POTOSI" /></a><br /> +<p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;">POTOSI <i>alias Mine à Burlon</i>.</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> + +<h1> SCENES</h1> + +<h4> AND</h4> + +<h1> ADVENTURES</h1> + +<h4> IN THE</h4> + +<h2> <i>Semi-Alpine Region</i></h2> + +<h4> OF THE</h4> + +<h2> OZARK MOUNTAINS OF MISSOURI<br /> + + AND ARKANSAS,</h2> + +<h3> WHICH WERE FIRST TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO, IN 1541.</h3> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2> BY HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT.</h2> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h3> PHILADELPHIA:<br /> + LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO & CO.<br /> + 1853.</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr style="width: 79%;" /> +<h4>Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by<br /> + +HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT,<br /> + +in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court for the District of Columbia.</h4> +<hr style="width: 79%;" /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<h3>Dedication.</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<h3><i>To the Memory</i></h3> + +<h4>OF</h4> + +<h3>DE WITT CLINTON,</h3> + +<h4>LATE GOVERNOR OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK, &C. &C. &C,<br /> + +AN EARLY FRIEND, DURING THE YEARS DEVOTED TO THESE EXCURSIONS<br /> +INTO THE GREAT AREA OF THE WEST;—<br /> + +A MAN WHO WAS EMINENT IN VARIOUS WALKS OF LIFE;—<br /> + +WHO, BY HIS EXALTED FORECAST, WISE COUNSELS, AND STEADY POLICY,<br /> +CONTRIBUTED TO THE HIGHEST BENEFITS AND RENOWN OF HIS<br /> +<br /> +NATIVE STATE;—<br /> +<br /> +THESE RECORDS OF INCIDENTS OF EXPLORATORY TRAVEL,<br /> +ARE DEDICATED WITH THE SINCEREST SENTIMENTS OF RESPECT AND REGARD<br /> +FOR HIS CHARACTER AND NAME,<br /> +WHICH I EVER ENTERTAINED FOR HIM WHILE LIVING,<br /> +AND CONTINUE TO CHERISH NOW THAT HE IS DEAD.</h4> + +<p class="right" style="padding-right: 6em;"><b>HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT.</b></p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> +<br /> + +<p>These early adventures in the Ozarks comprehend my first exploratory +effort in the great area of the West. To traverse the plains and +mountain elevations west of the Mississippi, which had once echoed the +tramp of the squadrons of De Soto—to range over hills, and through +rugged defiles, which he had once searched in the hope of finding mines +of gold and silver rivalling those of Mexico and Peru; and this, too, +coming as a climax to the panorama of a long, long journey from the +East—constituted an attainment of youthful exultation and +self-felicitation, which might have been forgotten with its termination. +But the incidents are perceived to have had a value of a different kind. +They supply the first attempt to trace the track of the Spanish +cavaliers west of the Mississippi. The name of De Soto is inseparably +connected with the territorial area of Missouri and Arkansas, which he +was the first European to penetrate, and in the latter of which he died.</p> + +<p>Four-and-thirty years have passed away, since the travels here brought +to view, were terminated. They comprise a period of exciting and +startling events in our history, social and political. With the +occupancy of Oregon, the annexation <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span>of Texas, the discoveries in +California, and the acquisition of New Mexico, the very ends of the +Union appear to have been turned about. And the lone scenes and +adventures of a man on a then remote frontier, may be thought to have +lost their interest. But they are believed to possess a more permanent +character. It is the first and <i>only</i> attempt to identify De Soto's +march west of the Mississippi; and it recalls reminiscences of scenes +and observations which belong to the history of the discovery and +settlement of the country.</p> + +<p>Little, it is conceived, need be said, to enable the reader to determine +the author's position on the frontiers of Missouri and Arkansas in 1818. +He had passed the summer and fall of that year in investigating the +geological structure and mineral resources of the lead-mine district of +Missouri. He had discovered the isolated primitive tract on the sources +of the St. Francis and Grand rivers—the "Coligoa" of the Spanish +adventurer—and he felt a strong impulse to explore the regions west of +it, to determine the extent of this formation, and fix its geological +relations between the primitive ranges of the Alleghany and Rocky +mountains.</p> + +<p>Reports represented it as an alpine tract, abounding in picturesque +valleys and caves, and replete with varied mineral resources, but +difficult to penetrate on account of the hostile character of the Osage +and Pawnee Indians. He recrossed the Mississippi to the American bottom +of Illinois, to lay his plan before a friend and fellow-traveller in an +earlier part of his explorations, Mr. Ebenezer Brigham, of +Massachusetts, who agreed to unite in the enterprise. He then proceeded +to St. Louis, where Mr. Pettibone, a Connecticut man, and a +fellow-voyager on the Alleghany river, determined also to unite in this +interior journey. The place of rendezvous was appointed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span>at Potosi, +about forty miles west of the Mississippi. Each one was to share in the +preparations, and some experienced hunters and frontiersmen were to join +in the expedition. But it turned out, when the day of starting arrived, +that each one of the latter persons found some easy and good excuse for +declining to go, principally on the ground that they were poor men, and +could not leave supplies for their families during so long a period of +absence. Both the other gentlemen came promptly to the point, though one +of them was compelled by sickness to return; and my remaining companion +and myself plunged into the wilderness with a gust of adventure and +determination, which made amends for whatever else we lacked.</p> + +<p>It is only necessary to add, that the following journal narrates the +incidents of the tour. The narrative is drawn up from the original +manuscript journal in my possession. Outlines of parts of it, were +inserted in the pages of the Belles-lettres Repository, by Mr. Van +Winkle, soon after my return to New York, in 1819; from whence they were +transferred by Sir Richard Phillips to his collection of Voyages and +Travels, London, 1821. This latter work has never been republished in +the United States.</p> + +<p>In preparing the present volume, after so considerable a lapse of time, +it has been thought proper to omit all such topics as are not deemed of +permanent or historical value. The scientific facts embraced in the +appendix, on the mines and mineralogy of Missouri, are taken from my +publication on these subjects. In making selections and revisions from a +work which was at first hastily prepared, I have availed myself of the +advantage of subsequent observation on the spot, as well as of the +suggestions and critical remarks made by men of judgment and science.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span>A single further remark may be made: The term Ozark is applied to a +broad, elevated district of highlands, running from north to south, +centrally, through the States of Missouri and Arkansas. It has on its +east the striking and deep alluvial tract of the Mississippi river, and, +on its west, the woodless buffalo plains or deserts which stretch below +the Rocky Mountains. The Osage Indians, who probably furnish origin for +the term, have occupied all its most remarkable gorges and eminences, +north of the Arkansas, from the earliest historical times; and this +tribe, with the Pawnees ("Apana"), are supposed to have held this +position ever since the days of De Soto.</p> + +<p> +<span class="smcap">Washington</span>, January 20, 1853.<br /> +</p> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span> +<br /> +<hr /> +<br /> + +<h2>CONTENTS.</h2> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl smcap" width="85%">Introduction</td> + <td class="tdr" width="15%"><a href="#Page_13">13</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER I.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi—Difficulty of Ascending + the latter with a Barge—Its turbid and rapid Character—Incidents + of the Voyage—Physical Impediments to its Navigation—Falling-in + Banks—Tiawapati—Animals—Floating Trees—River at Night—Needless + and laughable Alarm—Character of the Shores—Men give out—Reach + the first fast Lands—Mineral Products—Cape Girardeau—Moccasin + Spring—Non-poetic geographical Names—Grand Tower—Struggle to + pass Cape Garlic.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_22">22</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER II.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Pass Cape Garlic—Obrazo River—Cliffs—Emigrants—Cape St. + Comb—Bois Brule Bottom—Paroquet—Fort Chartres—Kaskaskia—St. + Genevieve—M. Breton—The Mississippi deficient in + Fish—Antiquities—Geology—Steamer—Herculaneum—M. Austin, Esq., the + Pioneer to Texas—Journey on foot to St. Louis—Misadventures on + the Maramec—Its Indian Name—Carondelet—St. Louis, its fine Site + and probable future Importance—St. Louis Mounds not artificial—Downward + Pressure of the diluvial Drift of the Mississippi.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_32">32</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER III.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Resolve to proceed further West—Night Voyage on the Mississippi + in a Skiff—An Adventure—Proceed on foot West to the Missouri + Mines—Incidents by the Way—Miners' Village of Shibboleth— + Compelled by a Storm to pass the Night at Old Mines—Reach Potosi—Favourable + Reception by the mining Gentry—Pass several Months + in examining the Mines—Organize an Expedition to explore Westward—Its + Composition—Discouragements on setting out—Proceed, + notwithstanding—Incidents of the Journey to the Valley of Leaves.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td> + </tr> + + + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>CHAPTER IV.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Horses elope—Desertion of our Guide—Encamp on one of the Sources + of Black River—Head-waters of the River Currents—Enter a + romantic Sub-Valley—Saltpetre Caves—Description of Ashley's + Cave—Encampment there—Enter an elevated Summit—Calamarca, an unknown + Stream—encounter four Bears—North Fork of White River.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_54">54</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER V.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Descend the Valley—Its Difficulties—Horse rolls down a Precipice—Purity + of the Water—Accident caused thereby—Elkhorn Spring—Tower + Creek—Horse plunges over his depth in Fording, and destroys + whatever is deliquescent in his pack—Absence of Antiquities, or + Evidences of ancient Habitation—a remarkable Cavern—Pinched for + Food—Old Indian Lodges—The Beaver—A deserted Pioneer's Camp— + Incident of the Pumpkin.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_65">65</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VI.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Abandon our Camp and Horse in search of Settlements—Incidents of + the first Day—Hear a Shot—Camp in an old Indian Lodge—Acorns + for Supper—Kill a Woodpecker—Incidents of the second Day—Sterile + Ridges—Want of Water—Camp at Night in a deep Gorge—Incidents + of the third Day—Find a Horse-path, and pursue it— + Discover a Man on Horseback—Reach a Hunter's Cabin—Incidents + there—He conducts us back to our old Camp—Deserted there without + Provisions—Deplorable State—Shifts—Taking of a Turkey.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_74">74</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Proceed West—Bog our Horse—Cross the Knife Hills—Reach the + Unica, or White River—Abandon the Horse at a Hunter's, and + proceed with Packs—Objects of Pity—Sugar-Loaf Prairie—Camp + under a Cliff—Ford the Unica twice—Descend into a Cavern—Reach + Beaver River, the highest Point of Occupancy by a Hunter + Population.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_83">83</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER VIII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Obstacle produced by the Fear of Osage Hostility—Means pursued to + overcome it—Natural Monuments of Denudation in the Limestone + Cliffs—Purity of the Water—Pebbles of Yellow Jasper—Complete + the Hunters' Cabins—A Job in Jewellery—Construct<br /> a Blowpipe from + Cane—What is thought of Religion.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_93">93</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span>CHAPTER IX.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Proceed into the Hunting-Country of the Osages—Diluvial Hills and + Plains—Bald Hill—Swan Creek—Osage Encampments—Form of the + Osage Lodge—The Habits of the Beaver—Discover a remarkable Cavern + in the Limestone Rock, having natural Vases of pure Water—Its + geological and metalliferous Character—Reach the Summit of the + Ozark Range, which is found to display a broad Region of fertile + Soil, overlying a mineral Deposit.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_101">101</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER X.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Depart from the Cave—Character of the Hunters who guided the + Author—Incidents of the Route—A beautiful and fertile Country, + abounding in Game—Reach the extreme north-western Source of White + River—Discoveries of Lead-ore in a Part of its Bed—Encamp, and + investigate its Mineralogy—Character, Value, and History of the + Country—Probability of its having been traversed<br /> by De Soto in + 1541.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XI.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Severe winter Weather on the Summit of the Ozarks—False Alarm of + Indians—Danger of my Furnace, etc., being hereafter taken for + Antiquities—Proceed South—Animal Tracks in the Snow—Winoca or + Spirit Valley—Honey and the Honey-Bee—Buffalo- Bull Creek—Robe + of Snow—Mehausca Valley—Superstitious Experiment of the + Hunters—Arrive at Beaver Creek.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Descend White River in a Canoe—Its pure Water, Character, and + Scenery—Places of Stopping—Bear Creek—Sugar-Loaf Prairie—Big + Creek—A River Pedlar—Pot Shoals—Mouth of Little North Fork—Descend + formidable Rapids, called the Bull Shoals—Stranded on + Rocks—A Patriarch Pioneer—Mineralogy—Antique Pottery and + Bones—Some Trace of De Soto—A Trip by Land—Reach the Mouth of the + Great North Fork.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_120">120</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XIII.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Detention at the Mouth of the Great North Fork—Natural History of + the Vicinity—Great Blocks of Quartz—Imposing Precipices of the + Calico Rock—A Characteristic of American Scenery—Cherokee + Occupancy of the Country between the White and Arkansas Rivers—Its + Effects on the Pioneers—Question of the Fate of the Indian + Races—Iron-ore—Descent to the Arkansas Ferries—Leave the River + at this Point—Remarks on its Character and Productions.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_128">128</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span>CHAPTER XIV.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Ancient Spot of De Soto's crossing White River in 1542—Lameness + produced by a former Injury—Incidents of the Journey to the St. + Francis River—De Soto's ancient Marches and Adventures on this + River in the search after Gold—Fossil Salt—Copper—The ancient + Ranges of the Buffalo.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_134">134</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">CHAPTER XV.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Proceed North—Incidents of the Route—A severe Tempest of Rain, + which swells the Stream—Change in the Geology of the Country—The + ancient Coligoa of De Soto—A primitive and mineral Region—St. + Michael—Mine a La Motte—Wade through Wolf Creek—A Deserted + House—Cross Grand River—Return to Potosi.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_142">142</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdlh">Two Letters, addressed to the Hon. J. B. Thomas, U. S. Senate, + Washington.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_146">146</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2" style="font-size: 120%;">APPENDIX.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1. A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_153">153</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">2. A Catalogue of the Minerals of the Mississippi Valley</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_198">198</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">3. Mineral Resources of the Western Country. A Letter to Gen. C. G. Haines.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_215">215</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">GEOGRAPHY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1. Missouri.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_222">222</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">2. Hot Springs of Washita.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_231">231</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">3. Memoir of White River.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_233">233</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">4. List of Steamboats on the Mississippi River in 1819.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_239">239</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1. Articles of curious Workmanship found in ancient Indian Graves.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_241">241</a></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">2. Ancient Indian Cemetery found in the Maramec Valley.</td> + <td class="tdrb"><a href="#Page_243">243</a></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>INTRODUCTION.</h2> +<br /> + +<p>De Soto, in 1541, was the true discoverer of the Mississippi river, and +the first person who crossed it, who has left a narrative of that fact; +although it is evident that Cabaca de Vaca, the noted survivor of the +ill-fated expedition of Narvaez in 1528, must, in his extraordinary +pilgrimage between Florida and the eastern coasts of the gulf of +California, have crossed this river, perhaps before him; but he has not +distinctly mentioned it in his memoir. Narvaez himself was not the +discoverer of the mouth of the Mississippi, as some persons have +conjectured, inasmuch as he was blown off the coast and lost, east of +that point. The most careful tracing of the narrative of his voyage in +boats along the Florida shore, as given by De Vaca, does not carry him +beyond Mobile bay, or, at farthest, Perdido bay.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a></p> + +<p>De Soto's death frustrated his plan of founding a colony of Spain in the +Mississippi valley; and that stream was allowed to roll its vast volume +into the gulf a hundred and thirty-two years longer, before it attracted +practical notice. Precisely at the end of this time, namely, in 1673, +Mons. Jolliet, accompanied by James Marquette, the celebrated +enterprising missionary of New France, entered the stream at the +confluence of the Wisconsin, in accordance with the policy, and a plan +of exploration, of the able, brave, and efficient governor-general of +Canada, the Count Frontenac. Marquette and his companion, who was the +chief of the expedition, but whose <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span>name has become secondary to his +own, descended it to the mouth of the Arkansas, the identical spot of De +Soto's demise. La Salle, some five or six years later, continued the +discovery to the gulf; and Hennepin extended it upward, from the point +where Marquette had entered it, to the falls of St. Anthony, and the +river St. Francis. And it is from this era of La Salle, the narrators of +whose enlarged plans, civic and ecclesiastical, recognised the Indian +geographical terminology, that it has retained its Algonquin name of +<span class="smcap">Mississippi</span>.</p> + +<p>It is by no means intended to follow these initial facts by recitals of +the progress of the subsequent local discoveries in the Mississippi +valley, which were made respectively under French, British, and American +rule. Sufficient is it, for the present purpose, to say, that the thread +of the discovery of the Mississippi, north and west of the points named, +was not taken up effectively, till the acquisition of Louisiana. Mr. +Jefferson determined to explore the newly acquired territories, and +directed the several expeditions of discovery under Lewis and Clark, and +Lieut. Z. M. Pike. The former traced out the Missouri to its sources, +and followed the Columbia to the Pacific; while the latter continued the +discovery of the Mississippi river above St. Anthony's falls where +Hennepin, and perhaps Carver, had respectively left it. The map which +Pike published in 1810 contained, however, an error of a capital +geographical point, in regard to the actual source of the Mississippi. +He placed it in Turtle lake, at the source of Turtle river of upper <i>Lac +Cedre Rouge</i>, or Cass lake, which lies in the portage to Red lake of the +great Red River of the North, being in the ordinary route of the fur +trade to that region.</p> + +<p>In 1820, Mr. Calhoun, who determined to erect a cordon of military posts +to cover the remotest of the western settlements, at the same time that +he despatched Major Long to ascend to the Yellowstone of the Missouri, +directed the extreme upper Mississippi to be examined and traced out to +its source. This expedition, led by Gov. Cass, through the upper lakes, +reached the mouth of Turtle river of the large lake beyond the upper +cataract of the Mississippi, which has since borne the name of the +intrepid leader of the party. It was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>satisfactorily determined that +Turtle lake was not the source, nor even one of the main sources, of the +Mississippi; but that this river was discharged, in the integrity of its +volume, into the western end of Cass lake. To determine this point more +positively, and trace the river to its source, another expedition was +organized by the Department of War in 1832, and committed to me. Taking +up the line of discovery where it had been left in 1820, the river was +ascended up a series of rapids about forty miles north, to a large lake +called the Amigegoma; a few miles above which, it is constituted by two +forks, having a southern and western origin, the largest and longest of +which was found<a name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> to originate in Itasca lake, in north latitude 37° +13'—a position not far north of Ottertail lake, in the highlands of +<span class="smcap">Hauteur des Terres</span>.</p> + +<p>So far as the fact of De Soto's exploration of the country west of the +Mississippi, in the present area of Missouri and Arkansas, is concerned, +it is apprehended that the author of these incidents of travel has been +the first person to identify and explore this hitherto confused part of +the celebrated Spanish explorer's route. This has been traced from the +narrative, with the aid of the Indian lexicography, in the third volume +of his Indian History (p. 50), just published, accompanied by a map of +the entire route, from his first landing on the western head of Tampa +bay. Prior to the recital of these personal incidents, it may serve a +useful purpose to recall the state of geographical information at this +period.</p> + +<p>The enlarged and improved map of the British colonies, with the +geographical and historical analysis, accompanying it, of Lewis Evans, +which was published by B. Franklin in 1754, had a controlling effect on +all geographers and statesmen of the day, and was an important element +in diffusing a correct geographical knowledge of the colonies at large, +and particularly of the great valley of the Mississippi, agreeably to +modern ideas of its physical extent. It was a great work for the time, +and for many years remained the standard of reference. In some of its +features, it was never excelled. Mr. Jefferson <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>quotes it, in his Notes +on Virginia, and draws from it some interesting opinions concerning +Indian history, as in the allusion to the locality and place of final +refuge of the Eries. It was from the period of the publication of this +memoir that the plan of an "Ohio colony," in which Dr. Franklin had an +active agency, appears to have had its origin.</p> + +<p>Lewis Evans was not only an eminent geographer himself, but his map and +memoir, as will appear on reference to them, embrace the discoveries of +his predecessors and contemporary explorers, as Conrad Wiser and others, +in the West. The adventurous military reconnoissance of Washington to +fort Le Bœuf, on lake Erie, was subsequent to this publication.</p> + +<p>Evans's map and analysis, being the best extant, served as the basis of +the published materials used for the topographical guidance of General +Braddock on his march over the Alleghany mountains. Washington, himself +an eminent geographer, was present in that memorable march; and so +judicious and well selected were its movements, through defiles and over +eminences, found to be, that the best results of engineering skill, when +the commissioners came to lay out the great Cumberland road, could not +mend them. Such continued also to be the basis of our general +geographical knowledge of the West, at the period of the final capture +of fort Du Quesne by General Forbes, and the change of its name in +compliment to the eminent British statesman, Pitt.</p> + +<p>The massacre of the British garrison of Michilimackinac in 1763, the +investment of the fort of Detroit in the same year by a combined force +of Indian tribes, and the development of an extensive conspiracy, as it +has been termed, against the western British posts under Pontiac, +constituted a new feature in American history; and the military +expeditions of Cols. Bouquet and Bradstreet, towards the West and +North-west, were the consequence. These movements became the means of a +more perfect geographical knowledge respecting the West than had before +prevailed. Hutchinson's astronomical observations, which were made under +the auspices of Bouquet, fixed accurately many important points in the +Mississippi valley, and furnished a framework for the military narrative +of the expedition. In <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>fact, the triumphant march of Bouquet into the +very strongholds of the Indians west of the Ohio, first brought them +effectually to terms; and this expedition had the effect to open the +region to private enterprise.</p> + +<p>The defeat of the Indians by Major Gladwyn at Detroit had tended to the +same end; and the more formal march of Colonel Bradstreet, in 1764, +still further contributed to show the aborigines the impossibility of +their recovering the rule in the West. Both these expeditions, at +distant points, had a very decided tendency to enlarge the boundaries of +geographical discovery in the West, and to stimulate commercial +enterprise.</p> + +<p>The Indian trade had been carried to fort Pitt the very year of its +capture by the English forces; and it may serve to give an idea of the +commercial daring and enterprise of the colonists to add, that, so early +as 1766, only two years after Bouquet's expedition, the leading house of +Baynton, Wharton & Morgan, of Philadelphia, had carried that branch of +trade through the immense lines of forest and river wilderness to fort +Chartres, the military capital of the Illinois, on the Mississippi.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a> +Its fertile lands were even then an object of scarcely less avidity.<a name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> +Mr. Alexander Henry had, even a year or two earlier, carried this trade +to Michilimackinac; and the English flag, the symbol of authority with +the tribes, soon began to succeed that of France, far and wide. The +Indians, finding the French flag had really been struck finally, +submitted, and the trade soon fell, in every quarter, into English +hands.</p> + +<p>The American revolution, beginning within ten years of this time, was +chiefly confined to the regions east of the Alleghanies. The war for +territory west of this line was principally carried on by Virginia, +whose royal governors had more than once marched to maintain her +chartered rights on the Ohio. Her blood had often freely flowed on this +border, and, while the great and vital contest still raged in the +Atlantic colonies, she ceased not with a high hand to defend it, +attacked as it was by the fiercest and most deadly onsets of the +Indians.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>In 1780, General George Rogers Clark, the commander of the Virginia +forces, visited the vicinity of the mouth of the Ohio, by order of the +governor of Virginia, for the purpose of selecting the site for a fort, +which resulted in the erection of fort Jefferson, some few miles (I +think) below the influx of the Ohio, on the eastern bank of the +Mississippi. The United States were then in the fifth year of the war of +independence. All its energies were taxed to the utmost extent in this +contest; and not the least of its cares arose from the Indian tribes who +hovered with deadly hostility on its western borders. It fell to the lot +of Clark, who was a man of the greatest energy of character, chivalric +courage, and sound judgment, to capture the posts of Kaskaskia and +Vincennes, in the Illinois, with inadequate forces at his command, and +through a series of almost superhuman toils. And we are indebted to +these conquests for the enlarged western boundary inserted in the +definitive treaty of peace, signed at Paris in 1783. Dr. Franklin, who +was the ablest geographer among the commissioners, made a triumphant use +of these conquests; and we are thus indebted to George Rogers Clark for +the acquisition of the Mississippi valley.</p> + +<p>American enterprise in exploring the country may be said to date from +the time of the building of fort Jefferson; but it was not till the +close of the revolutionary war, in 1783, that the West became the +favorite theatre of action of a class of bold, energetic, and patriotic +men, whose biographies would form a very interesting addition to our +literature. It is to be hoped that such a work may be undertaken and +completed before the materials for it, are beyond our reach. How +numerous this class of men were, and how quickly they were followed by a +hardy and enterprising population, who pressed westward from the +Atlantic borders, may be inferred from the fact that the first State +formed west of the Ohio river, required but twenty years from the treaty +of peace for its complete organization. Local histories and cyclical +memoirs have been published in some parts of the West, which, though +scarcely known beyond the precincts of their origin, possess their chief +value as affording a species of historical material for this +investigation. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span>Pioneer life in the West must, indeed, hereafter +constitute a prolific source of American reminiscence; but it may be +doubted whether any comprehensive work on the subject will be +effectively undertaken, while any of this noble band of public +benefactors are yet on the stage of life.</p> + +<p>The acquisition of Louisiana, in 1803, became the period from which may +be dated the first efforts of the United States' government to explore +the public domain. The great extent of the territory purchased from +France, stretching west to the Pacific ocean—its unknown boundaries on +the south, west, and north—and the importance and variety of its +reputed resources, furnished the subjects which led the Executive, Mr. +Jefferson, to direct its early exploration. The expeditions named of +Lewis and Clark to Oregon, and of Pike to the sources of the +Mississippi, were the consequence. Pike did not publish the results of +his search till 1810. Owing to the death of Governor Meriwether Lewis, a +still greater delay attended the publication of the details of the +former expedition, which did not appear till 1814. No books had been +before published, which diffused so much local geographical knowledge. +The United States were then engaged in the second war with Great +Britain, during which the hostility of the western tribes precluded +explorations, except such as could be made under arms. The treaty of +Ghent brought the belligerent parties to terms; but the intelligence did +not reach the country in season to prevent the battle of New Orleans, +which occurred in January 1815.</p> + +<p>Letters from correspondents in the West, which were often published by +the diurnal press, and the lectures of Mr. W. Darby on western and +general geography, together with verbal accounts and local publications, +now poured a flood of information respecting the fertility and resources +of that region, and produced an extensive current of emigration. +Thousands were congregated at single points, waiting to embark on its +waters. The successful termination of the war had taken away all fear of +Indian hostility. The tribes had suffered a total defeat at all points, +their great leader Tecumseh had fallen, and there was no longer a basis +for any new combinations to oppose the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>advances of civilization. +Military posts were erected to cover the vast line of frontiers on the +west and north, and thus fully to occupy the lines originally secured by +the treaty of 1783. In 1816, Mr. J. J. Astor, having purchased the +North-west Company's posts, lying south of latitude 49°, established the +central point of his trade at Michilimackinac. A military post was +erected by the government at the falls of St. Anthony, and another at +Council Bluffs on the Missouri. The knowledge of the geography and +resources of the western country was thus practically extended, although +no publication, so far as I am aware, was made on this subject.</p> + +<p>In the fall of 1816, I determined to visit the Mississippi valley—a +resolution which brought me into the situations narrated in the +succeeding volume. In the three ensuing years I visited a large part of +the West, and explored a considerable portion of Missouri and Arkansas, +in which De Soto alone, I believe, had, in 1542, preceded me. My first +publication on the results of these explorations was made at New York, +in 1819. De Witt Clinton was then on the stage of action, and Mr. +Calhoun, with his grasping intellect, directed the energies of the +government in exploring the western domain, which, he foresaw, as he +told me, must exercise a controlling influence on the destinies of +America.</p> + +<p>In the spring of 1818, Major S. H. Long, U. S. A., was selected by the +War Office to explore the Missouri as high as the Yellowstone, and, +accompanied by a corps of naturalists from Philadelphia, set out from +Pittsburgh in a small steamer. The results of this expedition were in +the highest degree auspicious to our knowledge of the actual topography +and natural history of the far West, and mark a period in their +progress. It was about this time that Colonel H. Leavenworth was +directed to ascend the Mississippi, and establish a garrison at the +mouth of the St. Peter's or Minnesota river. Early in 1820, the War +Department directed an exploratory expedition to be organized at +Detroit, under the direction of Lewis Cass, Esq., Governor of Michigan +Territory, for the purpose of surveying the upper lakes, and determining +the area at the sources of the Mississippi—its physical character, +topography, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>and Indian population. In the scientific corps of this +expedition, I received from the Secretary of War the situation of +mineralogist and geologist, and published a narrative of it. This +species of public employment was repeated in 1821, during which I +explored the Miami of the Lakes, and the Wabash and Illinois; and my +position assumed a permanent form, in another department of the service, +in 1822, when I took up my residence in the great area of the upper +lakes.</p> + +<p>It is unnecessary to the purposes of this sketch to pursue these details +further than to say, that the position I occupied was favorable to the +investigation of the mineral constitution and natural history of the +country, and also of the history, antiquities, and languages and +customs, of the Indian tribes. For a series of years, the name of the +author has been connected with the progress of discovery and research on +these subjects. Events controlled him in the publication of separate +volumes of travels, some of which were, confessedly, incomplete in their +character, and hasty in their preparation. Had he never trespassed on +public attention in this manner, he would not venture, with his present +years, and more matured conceptions of a species of labor, where the +difficulties are very great, the chances of applause doubtful, and the +rewards, under the most favorable auspices, very slender. As it is, +there is a natural desire that what has been done, and may be quoted +when he has left this feverish scene and gone to his account, should be +put in the least exceptionable form. Hence the revision of these +travels.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Vide Narr. of Cabaca de Vaca, Smith's Tr., 1851.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> 291 years after De Soto's discovery, and 159 after +Marquette's.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> MS. Journal of Matthew Clarkson, in the possession of Wm. +Duane, Esq., Philadelphia.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> Ibid.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL.</h2> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">JUNCTION OF THE OHIO WITH THE MISSISSIPPI—DIFFICULTY OF +ASCENDING THE LATTER WITH A BARGE—ITS TURBID AND RAPID +CHARACTER—INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE—PHYSICAL IMPEDIMENTS TO +ITS NAVIGATION—FALLING-IN +BANKS—TIAWAPATI—ANIMALS—FLOATING TREES—RIVER AT +NIGHT—NEEDLESS AND LAUGHABLE ALARM—CHARACTER OF THE +SHORES—MEN GIVE OUT—REACH THE FIRST FAST LANDS—MINERAL +PRODUCTS—CAPE GIRARDEAU—MOCCASIN SPRING—NON-POETIC +GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES—GRAND TOWER—STRUGGLE TO PASS CAPE +GARLIC.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I reached the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi on the last day +of June, 1818, with feelings somewhat akin to those of one who performs +a pilgrimage;—for that Algonquin name of Mississippi had been floating +through my mind ever since boyhood, as if it had been invested with a +talismanic power.</p> + +<p>The reading of books of geography, however, makes but a feeble +impression on the mind, compared to the actual objects. Born on one of +the tributaries of the Hudson—a stream whose whole length, from the +junction of the Mohawk, is less than two hundred miles—I had never +figured to myself rivers of such magnificent length and velocity. I had +now followed down the Ohio, in all its windings, one thousand miles; it +was not only the longest, but the most beautiful river which I had <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span>ever +seen; and I felt something like regret to find it at last swallowed up, +as it were, by the turbid and repulsive Mississippi. The latter was at +its summer flood, and rushed by like a torrent, which seemed to be +overcharged with the broken-down materials of half a continent.</p> + +<p>De Soto had been the first European to gaze upon this heady mass of +waters, urging downward everything that comes within their influence, +and threatening to carry even their own banks into the gulf. We came, in +a large, heavily-manned barge, to the very point of the influx of the +Ohio, where Cairo is now located. It was early in the afternoon; but the +captain of our craft, who was a stout-hearted fellow, of decision of +character and a full-toned voice, deemed it best to come-to here, and +wait till morning to grapple with the Mississippi. There were some old +arks on the point, which had been landed in high water, and were now +used as houses; but I retained my berth in the barge, and, after looking +around the vicinity, amused myself by angling from the sides of the +vessel. The only fish I caught was a gar—that almost single variety of +the voracious species in these waters, which has a long bill, with sharp +teeth, for arousing its prey, apparently, from a muddy bottom. The +junction of two such streams as the Ohio and Mississippi, exhibits a +remarkable struggle. For miles, along the eastern shores of the +Mississippi, the clear blue waters of the Ohio are crowded to the banks; +while the furious current of the former, like some monster, finally +gulps it down, though the mastery is not obtained, I am told, till near +the Chickasaw bluffs.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning (1st July), the voice of the captain was heard, and +the men paraded the sides of the deck, with their long poles shod with +iron; and we were soon in the gurgling, muddy channel, struggling along +its eastern shore. The men plied their poles with the skill of veterans, +planting them as near the margin of the channel as possible, and placing +the head of the pole against the shoulder, while they kept their footing +by means of slats nailed across the footway. With every exertion, we +made but five miles the first day. This slowness of ascent was, however, +very favorable to observation. I was the only passenger on board, except +two adventurers <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>from the Youghioghany, in Western Pennsylvania, who had +freighted the barge, and were in the position of supercargoes. Such +tugging and toiling I had never before seen. It seemed to me that no set +of men could long stand it. The current ran as if it were charged with +power to sweep everything down its course. Its banks were not proof +against this impetuosity, and frequently fell in, with a noise and power +which threatened to overwhelm us. This danger was often increased by the +floating trees, which had fallen into the stream at higher points. And +when, after a severe day's toil, the captain ordered the boat to be +moored for the night, we felt an insecurity from the fear that the bank +itself might prove treacherous before morning.</p> + +<p>Nothing in the structure of the country appeared to present a very fixed +character. The banks of the river were elevated from ten to fifteen feet +above the water, and consisted of a dark alluvium, bearing a dense +forest. When they became too precipitous, which was an indication that +the water at these points was too deep for the men to reach bottom with +their poles, they took their oars, and crossed to the other bank. When +night came on, in these damp alluvions, and darkness was added to our +danger, the scene was indeed gloomy. I remember, this evening, we tried +most perseveringly to drink our tea by a feeble light, which appeared to +be a signal for the collection of insects far and near, who, by their +numbers and the fierceness of their attacks, made it impossible to bring +our cups to our mouths without stopping to brush away the fierce and +greedy hordes of mosquitoes. Amongst the growth, cane and cotton-wood +were most conspicuous.</p> + +<p>I had a specimen of boatman manners to-day, which should not certainly +be a subject of surprise, considering the rough-and-ready life and +character of that class. Having laid down on the top deck of the barge a +mineralogical specimen to which I attached value, and gone temporarily +away, I found, on my return, that it had been knocked to pieces by one +of the men, who acted, probably, like the boy who broke the fiddle, "to +get the music out" of it. On expressing my disapproval of this, to one +who evidently had not the most distant idea of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>scientific value of +"a stone," he made some trite remark, that "there was more where this +came from," and then, stretching himself up at his full length of six +feet, with sinews which had plainly become tense and hard from the use +of the setting-pole, he exclaimed, "Help yourself!"</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 2d. The toils of this day were similar to those of the last. It was +a perpetual struggle to overcome the force of the current by poles +placed in the bed, and, when that became too deep, we sought for +shallower shores. We encountered the same growth of trees along the +banks. The land became somewhat more elevated. The insects were in such +hordes, that it was amazing. We proceeded but about six miles to-day, +and they were miles of incessant toil.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 3d. To the ordinary dangers and efforts of this day, were added the +frequent occurrence of snags and sawyers, or planters—terms which +denote some of the peculiar impediments of Mississippi navigation. The +captain of our craft, who was a courageous and vigilant man, was +continually on the look-out to avoid these dangers, and put-to, at +night, at the foot of a large cane-covered island, by which he avoided, +in some measure, the sweep of the current, but was yet in jeopardy from +falling-in banks. He requested me, in this exigency, to take a pole, +and, from the bow, sound for bottom, as we crossed the river, to avoid +shoals. This I did successfully. We estimated our ascent this day at +seven miles.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 4th. The perils and toils of the crew did not prevent their +remembrance of the national anniversary; and the captain acknowledged +their appeal in the morning by an extra measure of "old Monongahela." We +then set forward against the wild, raging current. From the appearance +of the wild turkey and large grey squirrel ashore, it is probable that +we are passing out of the inundated region. In other respects, the face +of the country and its productions appear the same. After ascending +about six miles, when the time approached for looking out for a place to +moor for the night, a storm of wind <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>suddenly arose, which dashed the +water into the barge. We put ashore in haste, at a precipitous bank of +an island, which fell in during the night very near to us, and put us in +momentary peril. To leave our position in the dark, would be to take the +risk of running afoul of snags, or encountering floating trees; but as +early as the light appeared on the morning of the 5th, we left the spot +immediately, crossing to the western bank. By diligence we made eight +miles this day, which brought us to the first settlement at Tiawapeta +bottom, on the Missouri shore. This is the first land that appears +sufficiently elevated for cultivation. The settlement consists of six or +eight farms, where corn, flax, hemp, potatoes, and tobacco, are +abundantly raised. The peach and apple-tree also thrive. I observed the +papaw and persimmon among the wild fruits.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 6th. The downward movement of the water, and its gurgling and rush +as it meets with obstacles, is very audible after the barge has been +fastened to the shore for the night, when its fearful impetuosity, +surcharged as it is with floating wrecks of forest life, is impressive +to the listener, while night has thrown her dark pall over the scene.</p> + +<p>Early in the morning, the oarsmen and polemen were at their masculine +toils. I had feared that such intense application of muscle, in pushing +forward the boat, would exhaust their strength; and we had not gone over +three miles this day, when we were obliged to lay-by for the want of +more competent hands. The complaining men were promptly paid, and +furnished with provisions to return. While detained by this +circumstance, we were passed by a boat of similar construction to our +own, laden with planks from Olean, on the sources of the Alleghany +river, in New York. This article had been transported already more than +thirteen hundred miles, on its way to a market at St. Louis, where it +was estimated to be worth sixty dollars per thousand feet.</p> + +<p>While moored along this coast, the day after we had thus escaped from +the treacherous island, we seemed to have taken shelter along a shore +infested by wild beasts. "Grizzly bear!" was the cry at night. We were +all alarmed by a snorting and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>disturbance at the water's edge, a short +distance below us, which, it was soon evident, proceeded from a <i>large</i>, +light-colored, and furious animal. So far, all agreed. One of our +Pennsylvanians, who had a choice rifle, prepared himself for the attack. +The captain, who had no lack of resolution, and would, at any rate, have +become bold by battling the Mississippi river for six or seven days, had +some missiles; and all prepared to be useful on the occasion. As I +carried nothing more deadly than a silver crucible and some acids, I +remained on the upper deck of the barge. From this elevation I soon saw, +by the dim moonlight, the whole party return, without having fired a +gun. It turned out that the cause of this unusual disturbance was a +large white hog, which had been shot in the head and snout with +swan-shot, by some cruel fellows, the preceding day, and came at night +to mitigate its burning and festering wounds by bathing in the river.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 7th. Having procured some additional hands, our invincible captain +pressed stoutly forward, and, at an early hour, we reached the head of +Tiawapeta bottom, where a short stop was made. At this point, the bed of +the Mississippi appears to be crossed by a chain of rocks, which oppose, +however, no obstruction to its navigation. Such masses of it as appear +on shore, are silico-carbonates of lime, and seem to belong to the +metalliferous system of Missouri. About half a mile above the +commencement of this chain, I observed, at the foot of an elevation near +the water's edge, a remarkable stratum of white aluminous earth, of a +rather dry and friable character, resembling chalk, and which, I +afterwards observed, was extensively used by mechanics in Missouri as a +substitute for that article. Masses, and in some instances nodules, of +hornstone, resembling true flint, are found imbedded in it; yet it is +not to be confounded with the chalk formation. It yields no +effervescence with nitric, and is wholly destitute of carbonic, acid. +Portions of the stratum are colored deeply by the red oxide of iron. +Scattered along the shores of the river at this place, I observed large, +angular masses of pudding-stone, consisting chiefly of silicious pebbles +and sand, cemented by oxide of iron.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>I now began to breathe more freely. For seven days we had been passing +through such a nascent region, down which the Mississippi swept at so +furious a rate, that I never felt sure, at night, that I should behold +another day. Had the barge, any day, lost her heading and got athwart +the stream, nothing could have prevented the water from rushing over her +gunwales, and sweeping her to destruction. And the whole district of the +alluvial banks was subject to be momentarily undermined, and frequently +tumbled in, with the noise and fury of an avalanche, threatening +destruction to whatever was in the vicinity.</p> + +<p>Owing to the increased firmness of the shore, and the reinforcement of +hands, we ascended this day ten miles. We began to feel in better +spirits.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 8th. The calcareous and elevated formation of rocks, covered with +geological drift, continued constantly along the Missouri shore; for it +was this shore, and not the Illinois side, that we generally hugged. +This drift, on ascending the elevations, consisted of a hard and reddish +loam, or marly clay, filled with pebble-stones of various kinds, and +fragments and chips of hornstone, chert, common jasper, argillaceous +oxide of iron, radiated quartz, and quartz materials, betokening the +disruption, in ancient eras, of prior formations. The trees observed on +the diluvial elevations were oaks, sassafras, and, on the best lands, +walnut, but of sparse growth; with a dense forest of cotton-wood, +sycamore, and elm, on the alluvions. On ascending the river five miles, +we came to the town of Cape Girardeau, consisting of about fifty wooden +buildings of all sorts, with a post-office and two stores. We were now +at the computed distance of fifty miles above the influx of the Ohio. We +went no farther that day. This gave me an opportunity to explore the +vicinity.</p> + +<p>I had not yet put my foot ashore, when a fellow-passenger brought me a +message from one of the principal merchants of the place, desiring me to +call at his store, and aid him in the examination of some drugs and +medicines which he had newly received. On reaching his store, I was +politely ushered into <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>a back room, where some refreshments were +handsomely set out. The whole thing was, in fact, designed as a friendly +welcome to a professional man, who came neither to sell nor buy, but +simply to inquire into the resources and natural history of the country. +At this trait of hospitality and appreciation in a stranger, I took +courage, and began to perceive that the West might be relied on.</p> + +<p>I found the town of Cape Girardeau situated on an elevation of rich, +red, marly soil, highly charged with oxide of iron, which is +characteristic of the best arable soils of the mine country. This soil +appears to be very readily dissolved in water, and carried off rapidly +by rains, which furnishes a solution to the deep gulfs and gorges that +disfigure many parts of the cultivated high grounds. If such places were +sown with the seeds of grass, it would give fixity to the soil, and add +much to the beauty of the landscape.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 9th. We resumed our journey up the rapid stream betimes, but, with +every exertion, ascended only seven miles. The river, in this distance, +preserves its general character; the Missouri shores being rocky and +elevated, while the vast alluvial tracts of the Illinois banks spread +out in densely wooded bottoms. But, while the Missouri shores create the +idea of greater security by their fixity, and freedom from treacherous +alluvions, this very fixity of rocky banks creates jets of strong +currents, setting around points, which require the greatest exertions of +the bargemen to overcome. To aid them in these exigencies, the +<i>cordelle</i> is employed. This consists of a stout rope fastened to a +block in the bow of the barge, which is then passed over the shoulders +of the men, who each at the same time grasp it, and lean hard forward.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 10th. To me, the tardiness of our ascent, after reaching the rock +formations, was extremely favorable, as it facilitated my examinations. +Every day the mineralogy of the western banks became more interesting, +and I was enabled daily to add something to my collection. This day, I +picked up a large fragment of the pseudo pumice which is brought <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>down +the Missouri by its summer freshets. This mineral appears to have been +completely melted; and its superficies is so much enlarged by vesicles +filled with air, and its specific gravity thereby so much reduced, as to +permit it to float in water. We encamped this evening, after an ascent +of seven miles, at a spot called the Moccasin Spring, which is contained +in a crevice in a depressed part of the limestone formation.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 11th. This day was signalized by our being passed by a small +steamer of forty tons burden, called the Harriet, laden with merchandise +for St. Louis. Viewed from our stand-point, she seemed often nearly +stationary, and sometimes receded, in her efforts to stem the fierce +current; but she finally ascended, slowly and with labor. The pressure +of the stream, before mentioned, against the rocky barrier of the +western banks, was found, to-day, to be very strong. With much ado, with +poles and cordelle, we made but five miles.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 12th. We passed the mouth of Great Muddy river, on the Illinois +shore, this morning. This stream, it is said, affords valuable beds of +coal. The name of the river does not appear to be very poetic, nor very +characteristic, in a region where every tributary stream is muddy; the +Mississippi itself being muddy above all others. But, thanks to the +Indians, they have not embodied that idea in the name of the Father of +rivers; its greatness, with them, being justly deemed by far its most +characteristic trait.</p> + +<p>About two miles above this locality, we came to one of the geological +wonders of the Mississippi, called the Grand Tower. It is a pile of +limestone rocks, rising precipitously from the bed of the river in a +circular form, resembling a massive castle. The height of this +geological monument may be about one hundred feet. It is capped by some +straggling cedars, which have caught a footing in the crevices. It +might, with as much propriety as one of the Alps, be called the Jungfrau +(Virgin); for it seems impossible that any human being should ever have +ascended it. The main channel of the river passes east of it. There is a +narrower channel on the west, which is apparently <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>more dangerous. We +crossed the river below this isolated cliff, and landed at some +cavernous rocks on the Illinois side, which the boatmen, with the usual +propensity of unlettered men, called the Devil's Oven. We then recrossed +the river, and, after ascending a distance along the western shore, were +repulsed in an attempt, with the cordelle, to pass Garlic Point. The +captain then made elaborate preparations for a second attempt, but again +failed. A third effort, with all our appliances, was resolved on, but +with no better success; and we came-to, finally, for the night, in an +eddy below the point, having advanced, during the day, seven miles. If +we did not make rapid progress, I had good opportunities of seeing the +country, and of contemplating this majestic river in one of its most +characteristic phases—namely, its summer flood. I pleased myself by +fancying, as I gazed upon its rushing eddies of mud and turbid matter, +that I at least beheld a part of the Rocky mountains, passing along <i>in +the liquid state</i>! It was a sight that would have delighted the eyes of +Hutton; for methinks the quantity of detritus and broken-down strata +would not have required, in his mind, many cycles to upbuild a +continent.</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 20%;"><p> +Mountains to chaos are by waters hurled,<br /> +And re-create the geologic world.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">PASS CAPE GARLIC—OBRAZO RIVER—CLIFFS—EMIGRANTS—CAPE ST. +COMB—BOIS BRULE BOTTOM—PAROQUET—FORT +CHARTRES—KASKASKIA—ST. GENEVIEVE—M. BRETON—THE +MISSISSIPPI DEFICIENT IN +FISH—ANTIQUITIES—GEOLOGY—STEAMER—HERCULANEUM—M. +AUSTIN, ESQ., THE PIONEER TO TEXAS—JOURNEY ON FOOT TO ST. +LOUIS—MISADVENTURES ON THE MARAMEC—ITS INDIAN +NAME—CARONDELET—ST. LOUIS, ITS FINE SITE AND PROBABLE +FUTURE IMPORTANCE—ST. LOUIS MOUNDS NOT +ARTIFICIAL—DOWNWARD PRESSURE OF THE DILUVIAL DRIFT OF THE +MISSISSIPPI.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>July 13th. We renewed the attempt to pass Cape Garlic at an early hour, +and succeeded after a protracted and severe trial. But two of our best +men immediately declared their unwillingness to proceed farther in these +severe labors, in which they were obliged to pull like oxen; and they +were promptly paid off by the captain, and permitted to return. The +crew, thus diminished, went on a short distance further with the barge, +and came-to at the mouth of the Obrazo river, to await the effort of our +commander to procure additional hands. We had not now advanced more than +two miles, which constituted the sum of this day's progress. While +moored here, we were passed by four boats filled with emigrants from +Vermont and Western New York, destined for Boon's Lick, on the Missouri. +I embraced the occasion of this delay to make some excursions in the +vicinity.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 14th. Having been successful in obtaining a reinforcement of hands +from the interior, we pursued the ascent, and made six miles along the +Missouri shore. The next day (15th) <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>we ascended seven miles. This +leisurely tracing of the coast revealed to me some of the minutest +features of its geological structure. The cliffs consist of horizontal +strata of limestone, resting on granular crystalline sandstone. Nothing +can equal the beauty of the varying landscape presented for the last two +days. There has appeared a succession of the most novel and interesting +objects. Whatever pleasure can be derived from the contemplation of +natural objects, presented in surprising and picturesque groups, can +here be enjoyed in the highest degree. Even art may be challenged to +contrast, with more effect, the bleak and rugged cliff with the verdant +forest, the cultivated field, or the wide-extended surface of the +Mississippi, interspersed with its beautiful islands, and winding +majestically through a country, which only requires the improvements of +civilized and refined society, to render it one of the most delightful +residences of man. Nor is it possible to contemplate the vast extent, +fertility, resources, and increasing population of this immeasurable +valley, without feeling a desire that our lives could be prolonged to an +unusual period, that we might survey, an hundred years hence, the +improved social and political condition of the country, and live to +participate in its advantages, improvements, and power.</p> + +<p>All the emigrants whom we have passed seem to be buoyed up by a hopeful +and enterprising character; and, although most of them are manifestly +from the poorest classes, and are from twelve to fifteen hundred miles +on their adventurous search for a new home, from none have I heard a +word of despondency.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 16th. I observed to-day, at Cape St. Comb, large angular fragments +of a species of coarse granular sandstone rock, which appear to be +<i>disjecta membra</i> of a much more recent formation than that underlying +the prevalent surface formation.</p> + +<p>The gay and noisy paroquet was frequently seen, this day, wheeling in +flocks over the river; and at one point, which was revealed suddenly, we +beheld a large flock of pelicans standing along a low, sandy peninsula. +Either the current, during <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>to-day's voyage, was less furious, or the +bargemen exerted more strength or skill; for we ascended ten miles, and +encamped at the foot of <i>Bois Brule</i> (Burnt-wood) bottom. The term +"bottom" is applied, in the West, to extensive tracts of level and +arable alluvial soil, whether covered by, or denuded of, native forest +trees. We found it the commencement of a comparatively populous and +flourishing settlement, having on the next day (17th) passed along its +margin for seven miles. Its entire length is twelve miles.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 18th. The most prominent incidents of this day were the passing, on +the Illinois shore, of the celebrated site of fort Chartres, and the +influx of the Kaskaskia (or, as it is abbreviated by the men, <i>Ocaw</i> or +<i>Caw</i>) river—a large stream on the eastern shore. These names will +recall some of the earliest and most stirring scenes of Illinois +history. The town of Kaskaskia, which is the present seat of the +territorial government, is seated seven miles above its mouth.</p> + +<p>Fort Chartres is now a ruin, and, owing to the capricious channel of the +Mississippi, is rapidly tumbling into it. It had been a regular work, +built of stone, according to the principles of military art. Its walls +formerly contained not only the chief element of military power in +French Illinois, but also sheltered the ecclesiastics and traders of the +time. In an old manuscript journal of that fort which I have seen, a +singular custom of the Osages is mentioned, on the authority of one +Mons. Jeredot. He says (Dec. 22, 1766) that they have a feast, which +they generally celebrate about the month of March, when they bake a +large (corn) cake of about three or four feet diameter, and of two or +three inches thickness. This is cut into pieces, from the centre to the +circumference; and the principal chief or warrior arises and advances to +the cake, when he declares his valor, and recounts his noble actions. If +he is not contradicted, or none has aught to allege against him, he +takes a piece of the cake, and distributes it among the boys of the +nation, repeating to them his noble exploits, and exhorting them to +imitate them. Another then approaches, and in the same manner recounts +his achievements, and proceeds as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>before. Should any one attempt to +take of the cake, to whose character there is the least exception, he is +stigmatized and set aside as a poltroon.</p> + +<p>It is said by some of the oldest and most intelligent inhabitants of St. +Louis, that about 1768, when the British had obtained possession of fort +Chartres, a very nefarious transaction took place in that vicinity, in +the assassination of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac. Tradition +tells us that this man had exercised great influence in the North and +West, and that he resisted the transfer of authority from the French to +the English, on the fall of Canada. Carver has a story on this subject, +detailing the siege of Detroit in 1763, which has been generally read. +The version of Pontiac's death in Illinois, is this:—While encamped in +this vicinity, an Illinois Indian, who had given in his adherence to the +new dynasty of the English, was hired by the promise of rum, by some +English traders, to assassinate the chief, while the latter was reposing +on his pallet at night, still vainly dreaming, perhaps, of driving the +English out of America, and of restoring his favorite Indo-Gallic empire +in the West.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 19th. We ascended the Mississippi seven miles yesterday, to which, +by all appliances, we added eleven miles to-day, which is our maximum +ascent in one day. Five miles of this distance, along the Missouri +shore, consists of the great public field of St. Genevieve. This field +is a monument of early French policy in the days of Indian supremacy, +when the agricultural population of a village was brought to labor in +proximity, so that any sudden and capricious attack of the natives could +be effectively repelled. We landed at the mouth of the Gabarie, a small +stream which passes through the town. St. Genevieve lies on higher +ground, above the reach of the inundations, about a mile west of the +landing. It consists of some three hundred wooden houses, including +several stores, a post-office, court-house, Roman Catholic church, and a +branch of the Missouri Bank, having a capital of fifty thousand dollars. +The town is one of the principal markets and places of shipment for the +Missouri lead-mines. Heavy stacks of lead in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>pigs, are one of the chief +characteristics which I saw in, and often piled up in front of its +storehouses; and they give one the idea of a considerable export in this +article.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 20th. I devoted this day to a reconnoissance of St. Genevieve and +its environs. The style of building reminds one of the ancient Belgic +and Dutch settlements on the banks of the Hudson and +Mohawk—high-pointed roofs to low one-story-buildings, and large stone +chimneys out-doors. The streets are narrow, and the whole village as +compact as if built to sustain a siege. The water of the Mississippi is +falling rapidly, and leaves on the shores a deposit of mud, varying from +a foot to two feet in depth. This recent deposit appears to consist +essentially of silex and alumine, in a state of very intimate mixture. +An opinion is prevalent throughout this country, that the water of the +Mississippi, with every impurity, is healthful as a common drink; and +accordingly the boatmen, and many of the inhabitants on the banks of the +river, make use of no other water. An expedient resorted to at first, +perhaps, from necessity, may be continued from an impression of the +benefits resulting from it. I am not well enough acquainted with the +chemical properties of the water, or the method in which it operates on +the human system, to deny its utility; but, to my palate, clear +spring-water is far preferable. A simple method is pursued for +clarifying it: a handful of Indian meal is sprinkled on the surface of a +vessel of water, precipitating the mud to the bottom, and the +superincumbent water is left in a tolerable state of purity.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 21st. We again set forward this morning. On ascending three miles, +we came to Little Rock ferry—a noted point of crossing from the east to +the west of the Mississippi. The most remarkable incident in the history +of this place is the residence of an old French soldier, of an age gone +by, who has left his name in the geography of the surrounding country. +<i>M. Breton</i>, the person alluded to, is stated to be, at this time, one +hundred and nine years of age. Tradition says that he was at Braddock's +defeat—at the siege of Louisbourg—at the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>building of fort Chartres, +in the Illinois—and at the siege of Bergen-op-Zoom, in Flanders. While +wandering as a hunter, after his military services had ended, in the +country about forty miles west of the Mississippi, he discovered the +extensive lead-mines which continue to bear his name.</p> + +<p>We ascended this day twelve miles, which is the utmost stretch of our +exertions against the turbid and heavy tide of this stream. Our captain +(Ensminger) looked in the evening as if he had been struggling all day +in a battle, and his men took to their pallets as if exhausted to the +last degree.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 22d. I have seen very little, thus far, in the Mississippi, in the +shape of fish. The only species noticed has been the gar; one of which I +caught, as described, from the side of the boat, while lying at the +mouth of the Ohio. Of all rivers in the West, I should think it the +least favorable to this form of organized matter. Of the coarse species +of the catfish and buffalo-fish which are found in its waters, I suppose +the freshet has deprived us of a sight.</p> + +<p>Of antiquities, I have seen nothing since leaving the Ohio valley till +this day, when I picked up, in my rambles on shore, an ancient Indian +dart, of chert. The Indian antiquities on the Illinois shore, however, +are stated to be very extensive. Near the Kaskaskia river are numerous +mounds and earthworks, which denote a heavy ancient population.</p> + +<p>The limestone cliffs, at the place called Dormant Rocks, assume a very +imposing appearance. These precipitous walls bear the marks of attrition +in water-lines, very plainly impressed, at great heights above the +present water-level; creating the idea that they may have served as +barriers to some ancient ocean resting on the grand prairies of +Illinois.</p> + +<p>We were passed, near evening, by the little steamer Harriet, on her +descent from St. Louis. This vessel is the same that was noticed on the +11th, on her ascent, and is the only representative of steam-power that +we have observed.<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Our ascent this day was estimated at thirteen +miles.</p> +<br /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>July 23d. Passing the Platten creek, the prominence called Cornice Rock, +and the promontory of Joachim creek, an ascent of five miles brought us +to the town of Herculaneum. This name of a Roman city buried for ages, +gives, at least, a moral savor of antiquity to a country whose +institutions are all new and nascent. It was bestowed, I believe, by Mr. +Austin, who is one of the principal proprietors of the place. It +consists of between thirty and forty houses, including three stores, a +post-office, court-house, and school. There are three shot-towers on the +adjoining cliffs, and some mills, with a tan-yard and a distillery, in +the vicinity. It is also a mart for the lead-mine country.</p> + +<p>I had now ascended one hundred and seventy miles from the junction of +the Ohio. This had required over twenty-two days, which gives an average +ascent of between seven and eight miles per day, and sufficiently +denotes the difficulty of propelling boats up this stream by manual +labor.</p> + +<p>At Herculaneum I was introduced to M. Austin, Esq.—a gentleman who had +been extensively engaged in the mining business while the country was +yet under Spanish jurisdiction, and who was favorably known, a few years +after, as the prime mover of the incipient steps to colonize Texas. +Verbal information, from him and others, appeared to make this a +favorable point from which to proceed into the interior, for the purpose +of examining its mineral structure and peculiarities. I therefore +determined to leave my baggage here until I had visited the territorial +capital, St. Louis. This was still thirty miles distant, and, after +making the necessary preparations, I set out, on the 26th of the month, +on foot. In this journey I was joined by my two <i>compagnons de voyage</i> +from Pennsylvania and Maryland. We began our march at an early hour. The +summer had now assumed all its fervor, and power of relaxation and +lassitude on the muscles of northern constitutions. We set out on foot +early, but, as the day advanced, the sun beat down powerfully, and the +air seemed to owe all its paternity to tropical regions. It was in vain +we reached the summit land. There was no breeze, and the forest trees +were too few and widely scattered to afford any appreciable shade.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>The soil of the Missouri uplands appears to possess a uniform character, +although it is better developed in some localities than in others. It is +the red mineral clay, which, in some of its conditions, yields beds of +galena throughout the mine country, bearing fragments of quartz in some +of its numerous varieties. In these uplands, its character is not so +well marked as in the districts further west; geologically considered, +however, it is identical in age and relative position. The <i>gullied</i> +character of the soil, and its liability to crumble under the effect of +rain, and to be carried off, which was first noticed at Cape Girardeau, +is observed along this portion of the river, and is most obvious in the +gulfy state of the roads.</p> + +<p>What added greatly to our fatigue in crossing this tract, was the having +taken a too westerly path, which gave us a roundabout tramp. On +returning to the main track, we forded Cold river, a rapid and clear +brook; a little beyond which, we reached a fine, large, crystal spring, +the waters of which bubbled up briskly and bright, and ran off from +their point of outbreak to the river we had just crossed, leaving a +white deposit of sulphur. The water is pretty strongly impregnated with +this mineral, and is supposed to have a beneficial effect in bilious +complaints. The scenery in the vicinity of the spring is highly +picturesque, and the place is capable of being made a delightful resort.</p> + +<p>Five miles more brought us to the banks of the Maramec river, where we +arrived at dark, and prevailed with the ferryman to take us across, +notwithstanding the darkness of the night, and the rain, which, after +having threatened a shower all the afternoon, now began to fall. The +Maramec is the principal stream of the mine country, and is the +recipient of affluents, spreading over a large area. The aboriginal name +of this stream, Mr. Austin informed me, should be written "Marameg." The +ferryman seemed in no hurry to put us over this wide river, at so late +an hour, and with so portentous a sky as hung over us, threatening every +moment to pour down floods upon us. By the time we had descended from +his house into the valley, and he had put us across to the opposite +shore, it was dark. We took his directions for finding the house at +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>which we expected to lodge; but it soon became so intensely dark, that +we pursued a wrong track, which led us away from the shelter we sought. +Satisfied at length that we had erred, we knew not what to do. It then +began to pour down rain. We groped about a while, but finally stood +still. In this position, we had not remained long, when the faint +tinkling of a cow-bell, repeated leisurely, as if the animal were +housed, fell on our ears. The direction of the sound was contrary to +that we had been taking; but we determined to grope our way cautiously +toward it, guided at intervals by flashes of lightning which lit up the +woods, and standing still in the meanwhile to listen. At length we came +to a fence. This was a guide, and by keeping along one side of it, it +led us to the house of which we were in search. We found that, deducting +our misadventure in the morning, we had advanced on our way, directly, +but about fifteen miles.</p> +<br /> + +<p>July 27th. We were again on our path at a seasonable hour, and soon +passed out of the fertile and heavily timbered valley of the Maramec. +There now commenced a gentle ridge, running parallel to the Mississippi +river for twelve miles. In this distance there was not a single house, +nor any trace that man had bestowed any permanent labor. It was sparsely +covered with oaks, standing at long distances apart, with the +intervening spaces profusely covered with prairie grass and flowers. We +frequently saw the deer bounding before us; and the views, in which we +sometimes caught glimpses of the river, were of a highly sylvan +character. But the heat of the day was intense, and we sweltered beneath +it. About half-way, we encountered a standing spring, in a sort of open +cavern at the foot of a hill, and stooped down and drank. We then went +on, still "faint and wearily," to the old French village of Carondelet, +which bears the soubriquet of <i>Vede-pouche</i> (empty sack). It contains +about sixty wooden buildings, arranged mostly in a single street. Here +we took breakfast.</p> + +<p>Being now within six miles of the place of our destination, and +recruited and refreshed, we pushed on with more alacrity. The first +three miles led through a kind of brushy heath, which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>had the +appearance of having once been covered with large trees that had all +been cut away for firing, with here and there a dry trunk, denuded and +white, looking like ghosts of a departed forest. Patches of cultivation, +with a few buildings, then supervened. These tokens of a better state of +things increased in frequency and value till we reached the skirts of +the town, which we entered about four o'clock in the afternoon.</p> + +<p>St. Louis impressed me as a geographical position of superlative +advantages for a city. It now contains about five hundred and fifty +houses, and five thousand inhabitants. It has forty stores, a +post-office, a land-office, two chartered banks, a court-house, jail, +theatre, three churches, one brewery, two distilleries, two water-mills, +a steam flouring-mill, and other improvements. These elements of +prosperity are but indications of what it is destined to become. The +site is unsurpassed for its beauty and permanency; a limestone formation +rising from the shores of the Mississippi, and extending gradually to +the upper plain. It is in north latitude 38° 36', nearly equidistant +from the Alleghany and the Rocky mountains. It is twelve hundred miles +above New Orleans, and about one thousand below St. Anthony's falls.</p> + +<p>No place in the world, situated so far from the ocean, can at all +compare with St. Louis for commercial advantages. It is so situated with +regard to the surrounding country, as to become the key to its commerce, +and the storehouse of its wealth; and if the whole western region be +surveyed with a geographical eye, it must rest with unequalled interest +on that peninsula of land formed by the junction of the Missouri with +the Mississippi—a point occupied by the town of St. Louis. Standing +near the confluence of two such mighty streams, an almost immeasurable +extent of back country must flow to it with its produce, and be supplied +from it with merchandise. The main branch of the Missouri is navigable +two thousand five hundred miles, and the most inconsiderable of its +tributary streams will vie with the largest rivers of the Atlantic +States. The Mississippi, on the other hand, is navigable without +interruption for one thousand miles above St. Louis. Its affluents, the +De Corbeau, Iowa, Wisconsin, St. Pierre, Rock river, Salt <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>river, and +Desmoines, are all streams of the first magnitude, and navigable for +many hundred miles. The Illinois is navigable three hundred miles; and +when the communication between it and the lakes, and between the +Mississippi and lake Superior, and the lake of the Woods—between the +Missouri and the Columbia valley—shall be effected; communications not +only pointed out, but, in some instances, almost completed by nature; +what a chain of connected navigation shall we behold! And by looking +upon the map, we shall find St. Louis the focus where all these streams +are destined to be discharged—the point where all this vast commerce +must centre, and where the wealth flowing from these prolific sources +must pre-eminently crown her the queen of the west.</p> + +<p>My attention was called to two large mounds, on the western bank of the +Mississippi, a short distance above St. Louis. I have no hesitation in +expressing the opinion that they are geological, and not artificial. +Indian bodies have been buried in their sides, precisely as they are +often buried by the natives in other elevated grounds, for which they +have a preference. But the mounds themselves consist of sand, boulders, +pebbles, and other drift materials, such as are common to undisturbed +positions in the Mississippi valley generally.</p> + +<p>Another subject in the physical geography of the country attracted my +notice, the moment the river fell low enough to expose its inferior +shores, spits, and sand-bars. It is the progressive diffusion of its +detritus from superior to inferior positions in its length. Among this +transported material I observed numerous small fragments of those +agates, and other silicious minerals of the quartz family, which +characterize the broad diluvial tracts about its sources and upper +portions.</p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> I found fifty steamers of all sizes on the Mississippi and +its tributaries, of which a list is published in the Appendix.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">RESOLVE TO PROCEED FURTHER WEST—NIGHT VOYAGE ON THE +MISSISSIPPI IN A SKIFF—AN ADVENTURE—PROCEED ON FOOT WEST +TO THE MISSOURI MINES—INCIDENTS BY THE WAY—MINERS' +VILLAGE OF SHIBBOLETH—COMPELLED BY A STORM TO PASS THE +NIGHT AT OLD MINES—REACH POTOSI—FAVORABLE RECEPTION BY +THE MINING GENTRY—PASS SEVERAL MONTHS IN EXAMINING THE +MINES—ORGANIZE AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE WESTWARD—ITS +COMPOSITION—DISCOURAGEMENTS ON SETTING OUT—PROCEED, +NOTWITHSTANDING—INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE VALLEY OF +LEAVES.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I was kindly received by some persons I had before known, particularly +by a professional gentleman with whom I had descended the Alleghany +river in the preceding month of March, who invited me to remain at his +house. I had now proceeded about seventeen hundred miles from my +starting-point in Western New York; and after passing a few days in +examining the vicinity, and comparing facts, I resolved on the course it +would be proper to pursue, in extending my journey further west and +south-west. I had felt, for many years, an interest in the character and +resources of the mineralogy of this part of what I better knew as Upper +Louisiana, and its reported mines of lead, silver, copper, salt, and +other natural productions. I had a desire to see the country which De +Soto had visited, west of the Mississippi, and I wished to trace its +connection with the true Cordillera of the United States—the Stony or +Rocky mountains. My means for undertaking this were rather slender. I +had already drawn heavily on these in my outward trip. But I felt (I +believe from early reading) an irrepressible desire to explore this +region. I was a good <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>draughtsman, mapper, and geographer, a ready +penman, a rapid sketcher, and a naturalist devoted to mineralogy and +geology, with some readiness as an assayer and experimental chemist; and +I relied on these as both aids and recommendations—as, in short, the +incipient means of success.</p> + +<p>When ready to embark on the Mississippi, I was joined by my two former +companions in the ascent from the mouth of the Ohio. It was late in the +afternoon of one of the hottest summer days, when we took our seats +together in a light skiff at St. Louis, and pushed out into the +Mississippi, which was still in flood, but rapidly falling, intending to +reach Cahokia that night. But the atmosphere soon became overcast, and, +when night came on, it was so intensely dark that we could not +discriminate objects at much distance. Floating, in a light pine skiff, +in the centre of such a stream, on a very dark night, our fate seemed +suspended by a thread. The downward pressure of the current was such, +that we needed not to move an oar; and every eye was strained, by +holding it down parallel to the water, to discover contiguous snags, or +floating bodies. It became, at the same time, quite cold. We at length +made a shoal covered with willows, or a low sandy islet, on the left, or +Illinois shore. Here, one of my Youghioghany friends, who had not yet +got over his <i>penchant</i> for grizzly bears, returned from reconnoitering +the bushes, with the cry of this prairie monster with a cub. It was too +dark to scrutinize, and, as we had no arms, we pushed on hurriedly about +a mile further, and laid down, rather than slept, on the shore, without +victuals or fire. At daylight, for which we waited anxiously, we found +ourselves nearly opposite Carondelet, to which we rowed, and where we +obtained a warm breakfast. Before we had finished eating, our French +landlady called for pay. Whether anything on our part had awakened her +suspicions, or the deception of others had rendered the precaution +necessary, I cannot say. Recruited in spirits by this meal, and by the +opening of a fine, clear day, we pursued our way, without further +misadventure, about eighteen miles, and landed at Herculaneum.</p> + +<p>The next day, which was the last of July, I set out on foot for the +mines, having directed my trunks to follow me by the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>first returning +lead-teams. My course led through an open, rolling country, covered with +grass, shrubs, and prairie flowers, and having but few trees. There was +consequently little or no shade, and, the weather being sultry, I +suffered much from heat and thirst. For the space of about twelve miles, +the road ran over an elevated ridge, destitute of streams or springs. I +did not meet an individual, nor see anything of the animal creation +larger than a solitary wild turkey, which, during the hottest part of +the day, came to contest with me for, or rather had previously reached, +some water standing in a wagon-rut. I gained the head of the Joachim +creek before nightfall, and, having taken lodgings, hastened down to a +sheltered part of the channel to bathe, after which I enjoyed a +refreshing night's sleep. The aboriginal name of this stream was +"Zwashau," meaning pin-oak, as I was told by an old hunter whom I met.</p> + +<p>The next day I was early on my way; and I soon began to discover, in the +face of the country, evidences of its metalliferous character. Twelve +miles brought me to the valley of Grand or Big river, one of the +principal tributaries of the Maramec. In descending the high grounds, I +observed numerous specimens of the brown oxide of iron; and after +crossing the ferry, the mineral locally called mineral blossom, +(radiated quartz,) of which I had noticed slight traces before, +developed itself in fine specimens. The first mining village I came to, +bore the name of Shibboleth. At this place there was a smelting furnace, +of the kind called a log-furnace. Here I first saw heaps of the ore of +lead commonly found. It is the sulphuret, of a broad glittering grain, +and cubical fracture. It is readily smelted, being piled on logs of +equal length, and adjusted in the before-named furnace, where it is +roasted till the sulphur is driven off; when desulphurated, it melts, +and the metal is received on an inclined plane and conducted into an +orifice, from which it is ladled into moulds. From fifty to sixty per +cent, is obtained in this way. Shibboleth is the property of John Smith +T.; a man whose saturnine temper and disposition have brought him into +collision with many persons, and given him a wide-spread notoriety both +in Missouri and Tennessee.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>I lingered along so leisurely, and stopped so often to examine objects +by the way, that my progress was not rapid. I obtained some corn-bread +and milk at a house, and pursued my journey to Old Mines, where a heavy +storm of rain arose. I took shelter at a neighboring house, where I +remained during the night. The next morning I walked into Potosi, and +took lodgings at Mr. William Ficklin's. This gentleman was a native of +Kentucky, where most of his life had been passed in the perils and +adventures attending the early settlement of that State. His +conversation was replete with anecdotes of perilous adventures which he +had experienced; and I was indebted to him for some necessary practical +points of knowledge in forest life, and precautions in travelling in an +Indian country.</p> + +<p>The day after my arrival was a local election day, for a representative +from the county in the territorial legislature, to which Mr. Austin the +younger was returned. This brought together the principal mining and +agricultural gentlemen of the region, and was a circumstance of some +advantage to me, in extending my acquaintance, and making known the +objects of my visit. In this, the Austins, father and son, were most +kind and obliging. Indeed, the spirit with which I was received by the +landed proprietors of the country generally, and the frankness and +urbanity of their manners and sentiments, inspired me with high hopes of +success in making a mineralogical survey of the country.</p> + +<p>I found the geological structure of the country, embracing the mines, to +be very uniform. It consists of a metalliferous limestone, in horizontal +strata, which have not been lifted up or disturbed from their +horizontality by volcanic forces; but they have been exposed to the laws +of disintegration and elemental action in a very singular manner. By +this action, the surface of the formation has been divided into ridges, +valleys, and hills, producing inequalities of the most striking and +picturesque character.</p> + +<p>There are some forty principal mines, in an area of about seventy miles +by thirty or forty in breadth. The chief ore of lead smelted is galena. +The associated minerals of most <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span>prominence are sulphate of barytes, +sulphuret of zinc, calcareous spar, and crystallized quartz, chiefly in +radiated crystals. I spent upwards of three months in a survey of the +mines of chief consequence, noting their peculiarities and geological +features. By far the most remarkable feature in the general structure of +the country, consists of the existence of a granitical tract at the +sources of the river St. Francis. This I particularly examined. The +principal elevations consist of red sienite and greenstone, lying in +their usual forms of mountain masses. The geological upheavals which +have brought these masses to their present elevations, appear to have +been of the most ancient character; for the limestones and crystalline +sandstones have been deposited, in perfectly horizontal beds, against +their sides.</p> + +<p>Feeling a desire to compare this formation with the structure of the +country west and south of it, extending to the Rocky mountains, and +satisfied at the same time that these primary peaks constituted the +mineral region of De Soto's most northerly explorations, I determined to +extend my explorations south-westwardly. The term "Ozark mountains" is +popularly applied to the broad and elevated highlands which stretch in +this direction, reaching from the Maramec to the Arkansas. Having +obtained the best information accessible from hunters and others who had +gone farthest in that direction, I determined to proceed, as early as I +could complete my arrangements for that purpose, to explore those +elevations.</p> + +<p>Colonel W. H. Ashley, who had penetrated into this region, together with +several enterprising hunters and woodsmen, represented it as +metalliferous, and abounding in scenes of varied interest. It had been +the ancient hunting-ground of the Osages, a wild and predatory tribe, +who yet infested its fastnesses; and it was represented as subject to +severe risks from this cause. Two or three of the woodsmen, who were +best acquainted with this tract, expressed a willingness to accompany me +on a tour of exploration. I therefore, in the month of October, +revisited St. Louis and Illinois, for the purpose of making final +arrangements for the tour, and obtained the consent of Mr. Brigham and +Mr. Pettibone, previously <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>mentioned, to accompany me. A day was +appointed for our assembling at Potosi. I then returned to complete my +arrangements. I purchased a stout, low-priced horse, to carry such +supplies as were requisite, made his pack-saddle with my own hands, and +had it properly riveted by a smith. A pair of blankets for sleeping; a +small, short-handled frying-pan; a new axe, a tin coffeepot, three tin +cups, and the same number of tin plates; a couple of hunting-knives; a +supply of lead, shot, ball, powder, and flints; a small smith's hammer, +and nails for setting a horse-shoe; a horse-bell and strap; a pocket +compass; a gun, shot-pouch, and appendages, containing a space for my +diary; a mineral-hammer, constructed under my own directions, so as to +embrace a small mortar on one face, and capable of unscrewing at the +handle, which could be used as a pestle; a supply of stout clothing, a +bearskin and oilcloth, some bacon, tea, sugar, salt, hard bread, &c., +constituted the chief articles of outfit. The man of whom I purchased +the horse called him by the unpoetic name of "Butcher."</p> + +<p>It was the beginning of November before my friends arrived, and on the +sixth of that month we packed the horse, and took our way over the +mineral hills that surround Potosi, making our first encampment in a +little valley, on the margin of a stream called Bates's creek.</p> + +<p>It was fine autumn weather; the leaves of the forest were mostly sere, +and the winds scattered them about us with an agreeable movement, as we +wound among the hills. We were evidently following an old Indian trail, +and, finding a rather tenable old wigwam, constructed of poles and bark, +we pitched upon it as our first place of encampment. My kind host from +Kentucky, with whom I had been staying, accompanied us thus far, to see +us safely in the woods, and taught me the art of hobbling a horse, and +tying on his night-bell. The hunters, who had talked rather +vaingloriously of their prowess among wild animals and Osages, one by +one found obstacles to impede their going. Finally, one of my companions +was compelled to return, owing to a continued attack of fever and ague. +I determined, nevertheless, to proceed, thinking that a hunter could be +found to join us before quitting the verge of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>civilization. Having +unpacked Butcher, prepared him for the night, stowed away the baggage, +and built a fire, I took my gun and sallied out into the forest, while +my companion prepared things for our supper. I found the greatest +abundance of large black and grey squirrels in a neighboring wood, and +returned with a number of the finest of them in season to add to our +evening's meal.</p> + +<p>A man's first night in the wilderness is impressive. Our friends had +left us, and returned to Potosi. Gradually all sounds of animated nature +ceased. When darkness closed around us, the civilized world seemed to +have drawn its curtains, and excluded us. We put fresh sticks on the +fire, which threw a rich flash of light on our camp, and finally wrapped +ourselves in our blankets, and, amidst ruminations on the peculiarities +of our position, our hopes, and our dangers, we sank to sleep.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 7th. The first thing listened for this morning was the tinkle of +our horse's bell. But Butcher was gone. All my precautions had been in +vain. The poor beast appeared to have had a presentiment of the hard +fare that was before him, and, although his fore-feet were tethered, and +he must lift up both together to jump, yet, having a strong recollection +of the corn-fodder and juicy blades left behind him, he had made his way +back to the mines. I immediately went in pursuit of him. He was easily +tracked until he got to a space of rank herbage, where I lost the track, +and hearing, at the same moment, a bell to the left, I pursued the sound +over hill and through dale, till I came out at a farm-yard on Mine +creek, four miles below Potosi, where I found the bell whose sound I had +followed attached to the neck of a stately penned ox. The owner told me +that Butcher had reached the mines, and been sent back to my camp by his +former owner. I had nothing left but to retrace my steps, which, +luckily, were but the shorter line of an acute triangle. I found him at +the camp. It was, however, ten o'clock before our breakfast was +despatched, and the horse repacked ready for starting. We took the labor +of leading the horse, and carrying the compass and guiding, day <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>about, +so as to equalize these duties, and leave no cause for dissatisfaction. +Our trail carried us across the succession of elevated and arid ridges +called the Pinery. Not a habitation of any kind, nor the vestiges of +one, was passed; neither did we observe any animal, or even bird. The +soil was sterile, hard, and flinty, bearing yellow pines, with some +oaks. Our general course was west-south-west. The day was mild and +pleasant for the season. For a computed distance of fourteen miles, we +encountered a succession of ascents and descents, which made us rejoice, +as evening approached, to see a tilled valley before us. It proved to be +the location of a small branch of the Maramec river, called by its +original French name of <i>Fourche â Courtois</i>. The sun sank below the +hills as we entered this valley. Some woodcock flew up as we reached the +low ground; but as we had a cabin in view, and the day was far gone, we +moved on toward our principal object. Presently the loud barking of dogs +announced our approach; they seemed, by their clamor, as pertinacious as +if two wolves or panthers were stealing on the tenement, till they were +silenced by the loud commands of their master. It was a small log +building, of the usual construction on the frontiers, and afforded the +usual hospitality, and ready accommodations. They gave us warm cakes of +corn-bread, and fine rich milk; and, spreading our blankets before the +fire, we enjoyed sound slumbers. Butcher, here, had his last meal of +corn, and made no attempt to escape.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 8th. With the earliest streaks of daylight we adjusted our pack for +the horse, and again set forward on the trail. In the course of two +miles' travel, we forded a stream called Law's Fork, and also the branch +of the Maramec on which we had lodged the previous night. We soon after +descried a hunter's cabin, a small and newly erected hut in the midst of +the forest, occupied by a man named Alexander Roberts. This proved the +last house we encountered, and was estimated to be twenty miles from +Potosi. Some trees had been felled and laid around, partially burned; +but not a spot of ground was in cultivation. Dogs, lean and hungry, +heralded our approach, as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span>in the former instance; and they barked loud +and long. On reaching the cabin, we found that the man was not at home, +having left it, his wife said, with his rifle, at an early hour, in +search of game. She thought he would be back before noon, and that he +would accompany us. We decided to await his return, and in the meanwhile +prepared our frugal breakfast. In a short time, Roberts returned; he was +a chunky, sinister-looking fellow, and reminded me of Ali Baba, in the +"Forty Thieves." He had a short, greasy buckskin frock, and a pointed +old hat. His wife, who peeped out of the door, looked queer, and had at +least one resemblance to Cogia, which seemed to be "starvation." The +hunter had killed nothing, and agreed to accompany us, immediately +beginning his preparations. He at the same time informed us of the fear +entertained of the Osages, and other matters connected with our journey +in the contemplated direction. About ten o'clock he was ready, and, +leading a stout little compact horse from a pen, he clapped a saddle on, +seized his rifle, announced himself as ready, and led off. The trail led +up a long ridge, which appeared to be the dividing ground between the +two principal forks of the Maramec. It consisted of a stiff loam, filled +with geological drift, which, having been burned over for ages by the +Indians, to fit it for hunting in the fall of the year, had little +carbonaceous soil left, and exhibited a hard and arid surface. Our +general course was still west-south-west. After proceeding about four +miles, our path came to the summit of an eminence, from which we +descried the valley of the Ozau, or Ozark fork. This valley consisted +entirely of prairie. Scarcely a tree was visible in it. The path wound +down the declivity, and across the valley. The soil appeared to be +fertile. Occupying one bank of the stream, nearly in the centre of the +valley, we passed a cluster of Indian wigwams, inhabited alone by the +old men, women, and children; the young men being absent, hunting. We +found them to be Lenno-Lenapees, or, in other words, Delawares; being +descendants of the Indians whom William Penn found, in 1682, in the +pleasant forest village of Coacquannok, where Philadelphia now stands. +Strange, but not extraordinary history! They <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>have been shoved back by +civilization, in the course of a hundred and thirty-six years' +mutations, over the Alleghanies—over the Mississippi—into the spurs of +these mountains. Where they will be after the lapse of a similar period, +no one can say. But this <i>can</i> be said—that the hunting of deer will +give out; and if they do not betake themselves to some other means of +subsistence, they will be numbered among the nations that were.</p> + +<p>Roberts informed me that four or five miles lower down the valley was a +village of Shawnees, and, higher up, another village of Delawares.</p> + +<p>On reaching the uplands on the west side of the valley, we pursued the +trail up its banks about four or five miles, and encamped by daylight +near a clump of bushes at a spring. As I was expert in striking and +kindling a fire, this became a duty to which I devoted myself during the +entire journey, while my companion busied himself in preparations for +our repast. Roberts reconnoitred the vicinity, and came in with a report +that we had reached a game country.</p> + +<p>We were now fairly beyond the line of all settlements, even the most +remote, and had entered on that broad highland tract to which, for +geographical distinction, the name of Ozark mountains is applied. This +tract reaches through Missouri and Arkansas, from the Maramec to the +Wachita, and embraces the middle high lands between the plains at the +foot of the Rocky mountains, and the rapids of the Maramec, St. Francis, +Osage, White, Arkansas, and other principal streams; these traverse a +belt of about two hundred miles east and west, by seven hundred miles +north and south. It is a sort of Rheingau, through which the rivers +burst.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 9th. Early in the morning, Roberts brought in the carcase of a fine +deer; and we made our first meal on wild venison, cut fresh smoking from +the tenderest parts, and roasted on sticks to suit our tastes. This put +every one in the best of spirits, and we packed a supply of the meat for +our evening's repast. Seeing that Roberts was more at home among the +game, and that he had but a sorry knife for the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>business, I loaned him +a fine new belt and knife, with its sheath, for the day. We now +travelled up the Ozark fork about eighteen miles. The weather was +exhilarating, and the winds were careering with the leaves of the +forest, and casting them in profusion in our track. As we came near the +sources of the river, we entered a wide prairie, perfectly covered for +miles with these leaves, brought from neighboring forests. At every step +the light masses were kicked or brushed away before us. This plain, or +rather level vale, was crowned in the distance by elevations fringed +with tall trees which still held some of their leafy honors, giving a +very picturesque character to the landscape. I booked the scene at +night, in my diary, as <span class="smcap">Cliola</span>, or the Valley of Leaves. We held our way +over the distant eminences, and at length found a spring by which we +encamped, at a rather late hour. It had been a hazy and smoky day, like +the Indian summer in Atlantic latitudes. We were in a region teeming +with the deer and elk, which frequently bounded across our path. The +crack of Roberts's rifle, also, added to the animation of the day's +travel; though we might have known, from his unsteady bandit-eye, that +he meditated something to our damage.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">HORSES ELOPE—DESERTION OF OUR GUIDE—ENCAMP ON ONE OF THE +SOURCES OF BLACK RIVER—HEAD-WATERS OF THE RIVER +CURRENTS—ENTER A ROMANTIC SUB-VALLEY—SALTPETRE +CAVES—DESCRIPTION OF ASHLEY'S CAVE—ENCAMPMENT +THERE—ENTER AN ELEVATED SUMMIT—CALAMARCA, AN UNKNOWN +STREAM—ENCOUNTER FOUR BEARS—NORTH FORK OF WHITE RIVER.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 10th. While we laid on our pallets last night, the trampling of +hoofs was frequently heard; but at length the practised ear of the +hunter detected that these were the sounds of wild animals' hoofs, and +not of our horses. This man's eye had shown an unwonted degree of +restlessness and uneasiness during the afternoon of the preceding day, +while witnessing the abundant signs of deer and elk in the country; but +this excited no suspicions. He was restless during the night, and was +disturbed at a very early hour, long before light, by this trampling of +animals. These sounds, he said to me, did not proceed from the horses, +which were hobbled. He got up, and found both animals missing. Butcher's +memory of corn and corn-fodder, at his old master's at Potosi, had not +yet deserted him, and he carried the hunter's horse along with him. I +immediately jumped up, and accompanied him in their pursuit. There was +some moonlight, with clouds rapidly passing. We pursued our back-track, +anxiously looking from every eminence, and stopping to listen for the +sound of the bells. Roberts occasionally took up a handful of leaves, +which were thickly strewn around, and held them up in the moonlight, to +see whether the corks of the horses' shoes had not penetrated them. When +he finally found this sign, he was sure we were in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>right way. At +length, when we had gone several miles, and reached an eminence that +overlooked the broad plain of the Valley of Leaves, we plainly descried +the fugitives, jumping on as fast as possible on the way back. We soon +overhauled them, and brought them to camp by daybreak, before my +companion had yet awaked.</p> + +<p>Roberts now sallied out, and in a few minutes fired at and killed a fat +doe, which he brought in, and we made a breakfast by roasting steaks. +Roberts had expressed no dissatisfaction or desire to return, but, +sallying out again among the deer on horseback, said he would rejoin us +presently, at a future point. We travelled on, expecting at every turn +to see him reappear. But we saw no more of him. The rascal had not only +deserted us at a difficult point, but he carried off my best new +hunting-knife—a loss not to be repaired in such a place.</p> + +<p>We at length came to a point where the trail forked. This put us to a +stand. Which to take, we knew not; and the result was of immense +consequence to our journey, as we afterwards found; for, had we taken +the right-hand fork, we should have been conducted in a more direct line +to the portions of country we sought to explore. We took the left-hand +fork, which we followed diligently, crossing several streams running to +the north-west, which were probably tributary to the Missouri through +the Gasconade. It was after dark before we came to a spot having the +requisites for an encampment, particularly water. It was an opening on +the margin of a small lake, having an outlet south-east, which we +finally determined to be either one of the sources of the Black river, +or of the river Currents.</p> + +<p>We had now travelled about twenty miles from our last camp, in a +southerly direction. We did not entirely relinquish the idea of being +rejoined by Roberts, nor become fully satisfied of his treachery, till +late in the evening. We had relied on his guidance till we should be +able to reach some hunters' camps on the White or Arkansas rivers; but +this idea was henceforth abandoned. Left thus, on the commencement of +our journey, in the wilderness, without a guide or hunter, we were +consigned to a doubtful fate; our extrication from which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>depended +wholly upon a decision and self-reliance, which he only knows how to +value, who is first called to grapple with the hardships of western +life.</p> + +<p>It was the edge of a prairie where we had halted. Wood was rather +scarce; but we made shift to build a good fire, and went to sleep with +no object near us, to excite sympathy, but our horse, who was securely +belled and tethered. When we awoke in the morning, the fire was out, and +a pack of wolves were howling within a few hundred yards of our camp. +Whether the horse feared them, I know not; but he had taken his position +near the embers of the fire, where he stood quite still.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 11th. In passing two miles, we crossed a small stream running +south-east, which evidently had its source in the little lake at our +last night's encampment. The trail beyond this was often faint; in the +course of eight or ten miles, we began to ascend elevations covered with +pines, but of so sterile and hard a soil, that we lost all trace of it. +We wound about among these desolate pine ridges a mile or two, till, +from one of the higher points, we descried a river in a deep valley, +having a dense forest of hard wood, and every indication of animal life. +Overjoyed at this, we mended our pace, and, by dint of great caution, +led our pack-horse into it. It proved to be the river Currents, a fine +stream, with fertile banks, and clear sparkling waters. The +grey-squirrel was seen sporting on its shady margin, and, as night +approached, the wild turkey came in from the plains to drink, and make +its nightly abode. After fording the river, we soon found our lost +trail, which we followed a while up the stream, then across a high ridge +which constituted its southern banks, and through dense thickets to the +summits of a narrow, deep, and dark limestone valley, which appeared to +be an abyss. Daylight left us as we wound down a gorge into its dreary +precincts; and we no sooner found it traversed by a clear brook, than we +determined to encamp. As the fire flashed up, it revealed on either side +steep and frowning cliffs, which might gratify the wildest spirit of +romance. This stream, with its impending cavernous cliffs, I designated +the Wall-cave or Onónda valley.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span>We had advanced this day about eighteen or twenty miles. We had an +opportunity, while on the skirts of the high prairie lands, to fire at +some elk, and to observe their stately motions; but, being still +supplied with venison, we were not willing to waste the time in pursuing +them. Our course varied from south to south-west.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 12th. Daylight fully revealed our position. We were in a valley, +often not more than six hundred feet wide, with walls of high +precipitous limestone rock. These cliffs were remarkable for nothing so +much as their caverns, seated uniformly at a height of forty or fifty +feet above the ground, in inaccessible positions. I do not know the +number of these caves, as we did not count them; but they existed on +either side of the valley as far as we explored it. Most of them were +too high to reach. A tree had fallen against the cliff near one of them, +by climbing which I reached a small ledge of the rock that afforded a +little footing, and, by cautiously groping along, the orifice was +finally reached and entered. It proved interesting, although of no great +extent; but it contained stalactites depending in clusters from the +walls. Of these, I secured a number which were translucent. Slender +crystals of nitrate of potash, of perfect whiteness and crystalline +beauty, were found in some of the crevices. Having secured specimens of +these, I again got out on the ledge of rock, and, reaching the tree, +descended in safety.</p> + +<p>About half a mile higher up the valley, on its south side, we discovered +a cavern of gigantic dimensions. The opening in the face of the rock +appeared to be about eighty or ninety feet wide, and about thirty high. +A projection of rock on one side enabled us to enter it. A vast and +gloomy rotundo opened before us. It very soon, after the entry, +increases in height to sixty or seventy feet, and in width to one +hundred and fifty or two hundred feet, forming an immense hall. This +hall has another opening or corridor, leading to a precipitous part of +the cliff. It extends into the rock, southerly, an unexplored distance, +branching off in lateral avenues from the main trunk. We explored the +main gallery five or six <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>hundred yards, when we found obstructions. The +roof has been blackened by the carbonaceous effect of fires, kindled by +Indians or white men, who have visited it, in former years, in search of +nitrous earth. In some parts of it, compact bodies of pebbles and +reddish clay, very similar to that found on the cliffs, are seen, which +creates an idea that the cavern must have been an open orifice at the +geological era of the diluvial deposits. This earth, by being lixiviated +with common house-ashes, produces a liquid which, on evaporation, yields +saltpetre. The cave, I was informed at Potosi, has been visited for this +purpose by Colonel Ashley, and it appropriately bears his name. Finding +it a perfect "rock-house," and being dry, and affording advantages for +some necessary repairs to our gear, and arrangements for the further +continuation of our explorations, we, about four o'clock in the +afternoon, removed our camp up the valley, and encamped within it. We +could shelter ourselves completely in its capacious chambers in case of +rain, of which there were indications, and take a calm view of the +course it seemed now expedient to pursue. Thus far, we had had a trail, +however slight, to follow; but from this point there was none—we were +to plunge into the pathless woods, and to trust ourselves alone to the +compass, and the best judgment we could form of courses, distances, and +probabilities. A wilderness lay before us, behind us, and around us. We +had "taken our lives in our hands," and we were well satisfied that our +success must depend on our vigilance, energy, and determination. In +addition to the exertion of providing food, and repairing our clothing, +which, as we urged our way, was paying tribute to every sharp bush we +pressed through, we had to exercise a constant vigilance to prevent +Indian surprises; for experience had already taught us that, in the +wilderness, where there is no law to impose restraint but the moral law +of the heart, man is the greatest enemy of man.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 13th. The threatening appearance of the atmosphere induced us to +remain most of the day in our rock-house, which was devoted to devising +a more safe and compact mode of carrying specimens, to repairs of our +pack-saddles, a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>reconstruction of the mode of packing, &c. We then made +a further reconnoissance of the cavern, and its vicinity and +productions. I had paid particular attention to the subject of the +occurrence of animal bones in our western caves, as those of Europe had +recently excited attention; but never found any, in a single instance, +except the species of existing weasels, and other very small quadrupeds, +which are to be traced about these castellated and cavernous cliffs. As +evening approached, a flock of turkeys, coming in from the plain to the +top of the cliff above the cavern, flew down on to the trees directly in +front of us, sheltered as we were from their sight, and afforded a fine +opportunity for the exercise of our sportsmanship.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 14th. The rain which had threatened to fall yesterday, poured down +this morning, and continued with more or less violence all day. Our +packages, clothing, arms and accoutrements, were thoroughly overhauled +and examined. We had still supplies of everything essential to our +comfort. Our bacon had not been seriously trenched on, while the forest +had amply supplied us with venison, and our groceries bade fair to last +us till we should strike some of the main southern streams, or till our +increasing powers of endurance and forest skill should enable us to do +without them.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 15th. This morning, the sky being clear and bright, we left our +rock abode in the Wall-cave valley. We ascended this valley a short +distance, but, as it led us too far west, and the brush proved so thick +as to retard our progress, we soon left it. With some ado, the horse was +led to the top of the cliff. A number of lateral valleys, covered with +thick brush, made this a labor by no means light. The surface of the +ground was rough, vegetation sere and dry, and every thicket which +spread before us presented an obstacle which was to be overcome. We +could have penetrated many of these, which the horse could not be forced +through. Such parts of our clothing as did not consist of buckskin, paid +frequent tribute to these brambles.</p> + +<p>At length we got clear of these spurs, and entered on a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span>high +table-land, where travelling became comparatively easy. The first view +of this vista of highland plains was magnificent. It was covered with +moderate-sized sere grass and dry seed-pods, which rustled as we passed. +There was scarcely an object deserving the name of a tree, except now +and then a solitary trunk of a dead pine or oak, which had been scathed +by the lightning. The bleached bones of an elk, a deer, or a bison, were +sometimes met. Occasionally we passed a copse of oak, or cluster of +saplings. The deer often bounded before us, and we sometimes disturbed +the hare from its sheltering bush, or put to flight the quail and the +prairie-hen. There was no prominent feature in the distance for the eye +to rest on. The unvaried prospect at length produced satiety. We felt, +in a peculiar manner, the solitariness of the wilderness. We travelled +silently and diligently. It was a dry and wave-like prairie. From +morning till sunset, we did not encounter a drop of water. This became +the absorbing object. Hill after hill, and vale after vale, were +patiently ascended, and diligently footed, without bringing the expected +boon. At last we came, suddenly and unexpectedly, to a small running +stream in the plain, where we gladly encamped. I quickly struck up a +cheerful fire, and we soon had a cup of tea with our evening's repast. +Nor was Butcher neglected. There was a patch of short green grass on the +margin of the brook, to which he did ample justice. We were not long +after supper in yielding ourselves to a sound sleep.</p> + +<p>While we were in the act of encamping, I had placed my powder-flask on +the ground, and, on lighting the fire, neglected to remove it. As the +plain was covered with dry leaves, they soon took fire, and burned over +a considerable space, including the spot occupied by myself and the +flask. The latter was a brass-mounted shooting-flask, of translucent +horn, having a flaw through which grains of powder sometimes escaped. +Yet no explosion took place. I looked and beheld the flask, which the +fire had thus run over, very near me, with amazement.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 16th. We were now on an elevated summit of table-land or +water-shed, which threw its waters off alternately to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>the Missouri and +Mississippi. It was covered with high, coarse, prairie grass, and its +occasional nodding clusters of prairie flowers run to seed. In depressed +places, the greenbriar occasionally became entangled with the horse's +feet, and required time to extricate him. We very frequently passed the +head and thigh-bones of the buffalo, proving that the animal had been +freely hunted on these plains. In the course of about eight miles' +travel, we passed two small streams running to the north-west, which led +us to think that we were diverging too far towards the Missouri side of +this vast highland plateau. It was still some hours to sunset, and we +had gone about four miles farther when we reached a large, broad stream, +also flowing towards the north-west. It had a rapid and deep current, on +each side of which was a wide space of shallow water, and boulders of +limestone and sandstone. It required some skill to cross this river, as +it was too deep to ford. The horse was led into the edge of the stream +and driven over, coming out with his pack safely on the other side. The +shallow parts offered no obstacle; and we bridged the deeper portion of +the channel with limbs and trunks of trees, which had been brought down +by the stream when in flood and left upon its banks, and, being denuded +of their bark, were light and dry, and as white as bleached bones.</p> + +<p>I had crossed the channel safely, after my companion; but he disturbed +the bridge on stepping from it, and caused me to slip from the stick. +Having my gun in my right hand, I naturally extended it, to break my +fall. Each end of it, as it reached the stream, rested on a stone, and, +my whole weight being in the centre, the barrel was slightly sprung. +This bridge, for the purpose of reference, I called Calamarca. After +crossing the stream, we came to a stand, and, on consultation, explored +it downward, to determine its general course; but, finding it to incline +toward the north-west, we returned up its southern bank two or three +miles above our rustic bridge, and encamped.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 17th. In the morning we proceeded in a south-south-westerly +direction, which, after keeping up the valley from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>camp of +Calamarca for a few miles, carried us up an elevated range of hills, +covered with large oaks bearing acorns. We had reached the top of a +ridge which commanded a view of a valley beyond it, when we observed, +far below us in the valley, four bears on an oak, eating sweet acorns. +The descent was steep and rough, with loose stones, which made it +impossible to lead the horse down without disturbing them. We therefore +tied him to a staddle, and, after looking to our priming, we began to +descend the height. But, as the leaves had all fallen, concealment was +impossible; and when the animals became alarmed, and began to come down +the tree, we ran at our utmost speed to reach its foot first. In this +effort, my companion fell on the loose stones, and sprained his ankle; I +kept on, but did not reach the foot of the tree in time to prevent their +escape, and I followed them some distance. When my companion's absence +led me back to him, I found him badly hurt; he limped along with the +utmost difficulty. I soon mounted him on the pack-horse, and led up the +little valley; but the pain of his ankle became so intense, that he +could not bear the motion, and, after proceeding a mile or two, we +determined to halt and encamp. We had not travelled from our morning's +encampment more than five or six miles. I accordingly unpacked the +horse, prepared a pallet for my companion, and built a fire. I then +bathed his ankle with salt and warm water. This done, I took my gun, and +sauntered along the thickets in the hope of starting some game. Nothing, +however, was found. The shrill and unmusical cry of the bluejay, which +was the largest bird I saw, reminded me of other latitudes. Thoughtful, +and full of apprehension at this untoward accident, I returned to our +little camp, and diligently renewed my antalgic applications.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 18th. A night's rest, and the little remedies in my power to +employ, had so far abated the pain of my companion's ankle, that he +again consented to mount the pack-horse, and we pursued our way up the +little valley in which we had encamped. We had not, however, travelled +far, when we saw two large black bears playing in the grass before us, +and so <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>intently engaged in their sport that they did not observe us. My +companion, with my aid, quickly dismounted. We examined our arms, tied +the horse, and, having determined to fire together, had reached our +several stations before the animals noticed our approach. They at first +ran a few yards, but then turned and sat up in the high, sere grass, to +see what had disturbed them. We fired at the same moment, each having +singled out his mark. Both animals fled, but on reaching the spot where +the one I fired at had sat, blood was copiously found on the grass. I +pursued him and his mate over an adjoining ridge, where I lost sight of +them; but discovering, on crossing the ridge, a hollow oak, into which I +judged they had crept, I went back for the axe to fell it. While engaged +at this, my companion hobbled up, and relieved me at the axe. The tree +at length came down with a thundering crash, partially splitting in its +fall, and I stood ready with my gun to receive the discomfited inmates; +but, after gazing intently for a time, none appeared. It was now evident +they had eluded us, and that we had lost the track. The excitement had +almost cured my companion's lameness; but it returned when the pursuit +was over, and, resuming his position on the horse, we proceeded over a +succession of high, oak-covered ridges. In crossing one of these, a +large and stately elk offered another object for our notice. He had an +enormous pair of horns, which it seemed he must find it difficult to +balance in browsing; but the moment he became aware of our propinquity, +he lifted his head, and, throwing back the antlers, they seemed to form +shields for his shoulders and sides while plunging forward through the +thickets. We stood a moment to admire his splendid leaps.</p> + +<p>These incidents had carried us a few miles out of our course. We were on +high broken summits, which resembled, in their surface, what may be +conceived of the tossing waves of a sea suddenly congealed. On +descending from these towards the south, we came to clumps of bushes, +with gravelly areas between, and an occasional standing pool of pure +water. It was very evident to our minds, as we advanced, that these +pools must communicate with each other through the gravel, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>that +there were seasons when there was more water washed from the hills. On +following down this formation about six miles, the connection became +more evident, and the sources of an important river developed +themselves. We were, in fact, on the extreme head-waters of the Great +North Fork of White river; the Unica of the Cherokees, and the <i>Riviere +au Blanc</i> of the French. The manner in which the waters develop +themselves on descending the southern slope of these highlands, is +remarkable. They proceed in plateaux or steps, on each of which the +stream deploys in a kind of lake, or elongated basin, connected with the +next succeeding one by a narrow rapid. The rock is a grey sandstone in +the lower situations, capped with limestone. In some places the water +wholly disappears, and seems to permeate the rock. We came to a place +where the river, being some four feet deep, is entirely absorbed by the +rock, and does not again appear till a mile below, where it suddenly +issues from the rock, in its original volume.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER V.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">DESCEND THE VALLEY—ITS DIFFICULTIES—HORSE ROLLS DOWN A +PRECIPICE—PURITY OF THE WATER—ACCIDENT CAUSED +THEREBY—ELKHORN SPRING—TOWER CREEK—HORSE PLUNGES OVER +HIS DEPTH IN FORDING, AND DESTROYS WHATEVER IS DELIQUESCENT +IN HIS PACK—ABSENCE OF ANTIQUITIES, OR EVIDENCES OF +ANCIENT HABITATION—A REMARKABLE CAVERN—PINCHED FOR +FOOD—OLD INDIAN LODGES—THE BEAVER—A DESERTED PIONEER'S +CAMP—INCIDENT OF THE PUMPKIN.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 19th. Daylight put us in motion. It was determined to follow the +valley down in its involutions, which led us, generally, south. We +passed over some fertile, heavily timbered bottoms, where I observed the +elm, oak, beech, maple, ash, and sycamore. We had not left our camp more +than a mile, when we came to the first appearance of the <i>C. +arundinacea</i>, or cane, and we soon after reached the locality of the +greenbriar. Travelling in these rich forests is attended with great +fatigue and exertion from the underbrush, particularly from the thick +growth of cane and greenbriar; the latter of which often binds masses of +the fields of cane together, and makes it next to impossible to force a +horse through the matted vegetation. Our horse, indeed, while he +relieved us from the burden of carrying packs, became the greatest +impediment to our getting forward, while in this valley. To find an +easier path, we took one of the summit ranges of the valley. But a +horse, it seems, must have no climbing to do, when he is under a +pack-saddle. We had not gone far on this ridge, when the animal slipped, +or stumbled. The impetus of his load was more than he could resist. The +declivity was steep, but not precipitous. He rolled over and over for +perhaps two hundred feet, until he reached the foot of the ridge. We +looked with dismay as he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>went, and thought that every bone in his body +must have been broken. When we reached him, however, he was not dead, +but, with our aid, got up. How he escaped we could not divine, but he +looked pleased when he saw us come to his relief, and busy ourselves in +extricating him. We unloosed his pack, and did all we could to restore +him. We could not find any outward bruise; there was no cut, and no +blood was started. Even a horse loves sympathy. After a time, we +repacked him, and slowly continued our route. The delay caused by this +accident, made this a short day's journey; we did not suppose ourselves +to have advanced, in a direct line, over twelve miles. The valley is +very serpentine, redoubling on itself.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 20th. We found the stream made up entirely of pure springs, gushing +from the gravel, or rocks. Nothing can exceed the crystal purity of its +waters. These springs are often very large. We came to one, in the +course of this day, which we judged to be fifty feet wide. It rushes out +of an aperture in the rock, and joins the main branch of the river about +six hundred yards below, in a volume quite equal to that of the main +fork. I found an enormous pair of elk's horns lying on one side of the +spring, which I lifted up and hung in the forks of a young oak, and from +this incident named it the Elkhorn Spring.</p> + +<p>In forcing my way through the rank vines, weeds, and brush, which +encumber the valley below this point, I lost my small farrier's hammer +from my belt; a loss which was irreparable, as it was the only means we +had of setting a shoe on our horse, and had also served on ordinary +occasions as a mineral-hammer, instead of the heavier implement in the +pack.</p> + +<p>We often disturbed the black bear from his lair in the thick canebrakes, +but travelled with too much noise to overtake him. The deer frequently +bounded across the valley, while turkey, squirrel, duck, and smaller +game, were also abundant.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 21st. The bottom-lands continued to improve in extent and fertility +as we descended. The stream, as it wears <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>its way into deeper levels of +the stratification of the country, presents, on either side, high cliffs +of rock. These cliffs, which consist of horizontal limestone, resting on +sandstone, frequently present prominent pinnacles, resembling ruinous +castellated walls. In some places they rise to an astonishing height, +and they are uniformly crowned with yellow pines. A remarkable formation +of this description appeared to-day, at the entrance of a tributary +stream through these walled cliffs, on the left bank, which I called +Tower Creek; it impressed one with the idea of the high walls of a +ruined battlement.</p> + +<p>The purity and transparency of the water are so remarkable, that it is +often difficult to estimate its depth in the river. A striking instance +of this occurred after passing this point. I was leading the horse. In +crossing from the east to the west bank, I had led Butcher to a spot +which I thought he could easily ford, without reaching above his knees. +He plunged in, however, over his depth, and, swimming across with his +pack, came to elevated shores on the other side, which kept him so long +in the water, and we were detained so long in searching for a suitable +point for him to mount, that almost everything of a soluble character in +his pack was either lost or damaged. Our salt and sugar were mostly +spoiled; our tea and Indian meal damaged; our skins, blankets, and +clothing, saturated. This mishap caused us a world of trouble. Though +early in the day, we at once encamped. I immediately built a fire, the +horse was speedily unpacked, and each particular article was examined, +and such as permitted it, carefully dried. This labor occupied us till a +late hour in the night.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 22d. Up to this point we had seen no Osages, of whose predatory +acts we had heard so much at Potosi, and on the sources of the Maramec; +nor any signs of their having been in this section of the country during +a twelvemonth, certainly not since spring. All the deserted camps, and +the evidences of encampment, were old. The bones of animals eaten, found +on the high plains east of Calamarca, and at the Elkhorn spring, were +bleached and dry. Not a vestige had appeared, since leaving the +Wall-cliffs, of a human being <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>having recently visited the country. The +silence and desolateness of the wilderness reigned around. And when we +looked for evidences of an ancient permanent occupation of the region by +man, there were none—not a hillock raised by human hands, nor the +smallest object that could be deemed antiquarian. The only evidences of +ancient action were those of a geological kind—caverns, valleys of +denudation, beds of drift, boulders, water-lines and markings on the +faces of cliffs, which betokened oceanic overflow at very antique or +primary periods.</p> + +<p>The difficulties attending our progress down the valley, induced us to +strike out into the open prairie, where travelling was free, and +unimpeded by shrubbery or vines. Nothing but illimitable fields of +grass, with clumps of trees here and there, met the eye. We travelled +steadily, without diverging to the right or left. We sometimes disturbed +covies of prairie birds; the rabbit started from his sheltering bush, or +the deer enlivened the prospect. We had laid our course +south-south-west, and travelled about twenty miles. As evening +approached, we searched in vain for water, to encamp. In quest of it, we +finally entered a desolate gorge, which seemed, at some seasons, to have +been traversed by floods, as it disclosed boulders and piles of rubbish. +Daylight departed as we wound our way down this dry gorge, which was +found to be flanked, as we descended, with towering cliffs. In the +meantime, the heavens became overcast with dense black clouds, and rain +soon began to fall. We scanned these lofty cliffs closely, as we were in +a cavernous limestone country, for evidences of some practicable opening +which might give us shelter for the night. At length, after daylight had +gone, the dark mouth of a large cavern appeared on our left, at some +twenty or thirty feet elevation. The horse could not be led up this +steep, but, by unpacking him, we carried the baggage up, and then +hobbled and belled the poor beast, and left him to pick a meal as best +he could in this desolate valley. It was the best, and indeed the only +thing, we could do for him.</p> + +<p>It was not long before I had a fire in the cave, which threw its red +rays upon the outlines of the cavern, in a manner which would have +formed a study for Michael Angelo. It seemed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>that internal waters had +flowed out of this cavern for ages, carrying particle by particle of the +yielding rock, by which vast masses had been scooped out, or hung still +in threatening pendants. Its width was some forty feet, its height +perhaps double that space, and its depth illimitable. A small stream of +pure water glided along its bottom, and went trickling down the cliff.</p> + +<p>The accident in crossing the stream had saturated, but not ruined our +tea; and we soon had an infusion of it, to accompany our evening's +frugal repast—for <i>frugal</i> indeed it became, in meats and bread, after +our irreparable loss of the day previous. Nothing is more refreshing +than a draught of tea in the wilderness, and one soon experiences that +this effect is due neither to milk nor sugar. The next thing to be done +after supper, was to light a torch and explore the recesses of the cave, +lest it should be occupied by some carnivorous beasts, who might fancy a +sleeping traveller for a night's meal. Sallying into its dark recesses, +gun and torch in hand, we passed up a steep ascent, which made it +difficult to keep our feet. This passage, at first, turned to the right, +then narrowed, and finally terminated in a low gallery, growing smaller +and smaller towards its apparent close. This passage became too low to +admit walking, but by the light of our torch, which threw its rays far +into its recesses, there appeared no possibility of our proceeding +further. We then retraced our steps to our fire in the front of the +cave, where there were evidences of Indian camp-fires. We then +replenished our fire with fuel, and spread down our pallets for the +night. My companion soon adjusted himself in a concave part of the rock, +and went to sleep. I looked out from the front of the cave to endeavor +to see the horse; but although I caught a sound of his bell, nothing +could be seen but intense darkness. The rain had been slight, and had +abated; but the cliffs in front, and the clouds above the narrow valley, +rendered it impossible to see anything beyond the reach of the +flickering rays of our fire. To its precincts I returned, and entered up +my journal of the events of the day. Our situation, and the +peculiarities of the scenery around us, led me to reflect on that +mysterious fate which, in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>every hazard, attends human actions, and, by +the light of the fire, I pencilled the annexed lines, and clapt down the +cavern in my journal as the Cave of Tula.<a name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> + +<br /> + +<p class="cen">LINES WRITTEN IN A CAVE IN THE WILDERNESS OF ARKANSAS.</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 30%; margin-right: 20%;"><p class="noin"> + O! thou, who, clothed in magic spell,<br /> + Delight'st in lonely wilds to dwell,<br /> + Resting in rift, or wrapped in air,<br /> + Remote from mortal ken, or care:<br /> + Genius of caverns drear and wild,<br /> + Hear a suppliant wandering child—<br /> + One, who nor a wanton calls,<br /> + Or intruder in thy walls:<br /> + One, who spills not on the plain,<br /> + Blood for sport, or worldly gain,<br /> + Like his red barbarian kin,<br /> + Deep in murder—foul in sin;<br /> + Or, with high, horrific yells,<br /> + Rends thy dark and silent cells;<br /> + But, a devious traveller nigh,<br /> + Weary, hungry, parched, and dry;<br /> + One, who seeks thy shelter blest,<br /> + Not to riot, but to rest.<br /> + +<br /> + + Grant me, from thy crystal rill,<br /> + Oft my glittering cup to fill;<br /> + Let thy dwelling, rude and high,<br /> + Make my nightly canopy,<br /> + And, by superhuman walls,<br /> + Ward the dew that nightly falls.<br /> + Guard me from the ills that creep<br /> + On the houseless traveller's sleep—<br /> + From the ravenous panther's spring,<br /> + From the scorpion's poisoned sting,<br /> + From the serpent—reptile curst—<br /> + And the Indian's midnight thrust.<br /> + Grant me this, aerial sprite,<br /> + And a balmy rest by night,<br /> + Blest by visions of delight!<br /> + Let me dream of friendship true,<br /> + And that human ills are few;<br /> + Let me dream that boyhood's schemes<br /> + Are not, what I've found them, dreams;<br /> + And his hopes, however gay,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span><br /> + Have not flitted fast away.<br /> + Let me dream, I ne'er have felt,<br /> + Ease that pleases, joys that melt;<br /> + Or that I shall ever find<br /> + Honor fair, or fortune kind;<br /> + Dream that time shall sweetly fling,<br /> + In my path, perpetual spring.<br /> + Let me dream my bosom never<br /> + Felt the pang from friends to sever;<br /> + Or that life is not replete,<br /> + Or with loss, pain, wo, deceit.<br /> + Let me dream, misfortune's smart<br /> + Ne'er hath wrung my bleeding heart;<br /> + Nor its potent, galling sway,<br /> + Forced me far, O! far away;<br /> + Let me dream it—for I know,<br /> + When I wake, it is not so!<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 23d. My first care this morning was to find Butcher, who had been +left, last night, with a sorry prospect. He was not to be found. I +followed our back track to the plains, whither he had gone for his +night's meal. By the time I returned with him, the forenoon was wellnigh +gone. We then travelled to the south-east. This brought us, in due time, +again into the valley of the North Fork. We found it less encumbered +with vines and thickets, and very much widened in its expansion between +bluff and bluff. We forded it, and found, on its eastern margin, +extensive open oak plains. On one of the most conspicuous trees were +marks and letters, which proved that it had been visited and singled out +for settlement by some enterprising pioneer. From the open character of +the country, we could not get near to large game; and we now found that +our supply of ball and shot was near its close. We passed down the +valley about ten miles, and encamped. Since the loss of our corn-meal, +we had had nothing in the shape of bread, and our provisions were now +reduced to a very small quantity of dried meat. We had expected, for +some <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span>days, to have reached either Indian or white hunters' camps. Our +anxiety on this head now became intense. Prudence required, however, +that, small as our stores were, they should be divided with strict +reference to the probability of our not meeting with hunters, or getting +relief, for two or three days.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 24th. The stick frames, without bark, of several Indian lodges, +were passed to-day, denoting that they had not been recently occupied. +Travelling down the opposite side of the vale from that taken by my +companion, who had charge of the horse, I came to a point on the bank of +the river, where I discovered two grown beavers sporting in the stream. +The tail of this animal, which appears clumsy and unwieldy in the dead +specimen, gives the animal a graceful appearance in the water, where it +makes him appear to have a very elongated body. After diving about for +some time, they came to the shore, and sat in front of their <i>wauzh</i>, as +it is termed by the Algonquins, or lodge, which in this case was a +fissure in the rock. I was perfectly screened by a point of the rock +from their view, and sat with my gun cocked, reserving my fire, a few +moments, the more perfectly to observe them, when both animals, at the +same instant, darted into their holes.</p> + +<p>Under the influence of a keen appetite, and a tolerably open forest, we +pressed on, this day, about fifteen miles; the horse being, as usual, +our chief hindrance.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 25th. I took the horse's bridle over my arm this morning, and had +proceeded through open woods about ten miles, when we descried, from a +little summit, a hut in the distance, which had some traits of the labor +of white men. This gave animation to our steps, in the hope of finding +it occupied. But, as we approached, we could discern no smoke rising up +as the sign of occupancy, and were disappointed to find it an abortive +effort of some pioneer, and, at the moment, called it Camp No. We +afterwards learned that it had been constructed by one Martin, who, as +there was not a foot of land in cultivation, had probably aimed to +subsist by the chase alone. The location was well chosen. A large +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>canebrake flanked the river, sufficient to give range to horses and +cattle. A little tributary stream bounded a fertile piece of upland, +east of this. The hut was built of puncheons, supported on one side by a +rude ridge-pole, leaving the front of it open, forming a shed which had +a roof and floor. But the stream had now dried up. We found a plant of +cotton, bolled out, among the adjacent weeds, which proved the soil and +climate suitable to its culture. We were now well within the probable +limits of Arkansas.</p> + +<p>It was determined to encamp at this spot, turn the horse into the +adjacent canebrake, where the leaves were green, to deposit our baggage +and camp apparatus in one corner of the hut, and, after making light +packs, to take our arms, and proceed in search of settlements. This +required a little time. To reach a point where civilization had once +tried to get a foothold, however, was something; and we consoled +ourselves with the reflection that we could not be remote from its +skirts.</p> + +<p>The next day (26th) I made an excursion west of the river, from our +position, about five miles, to determine satisfactorily our situation. I +found, on the opposite side of the valley, a little higher up, at the +foot of the cliff, another small (white man's) hut, which had also been +abandoned. In a small patch of ground, which had once been cleared, +there grew a pumpkin vine, which then had three pumpkins. This was a +treasure, which I at once secured. I found that one of them had been +partially eaten by some wild animal, and determined to give it to my +horse, but could not resist the inclination first to cut off a few +slices, which I ate raw with the greatest appetite. The taste seemed +delicious. I had not before been aware that my appetite had become so +keen by fasting; for we had had but little to eat for many days. Between +the horse and myself, we finished it, and had quite a sociable time of +it. With the other two, which were the largest, I rode back to camp, +where, having a small camp-kettle, we boiled and despatched them, +without meat or bread, for supper. It does not require much to make one +happy; for, in this instance, our little luck put us in the best of +humor.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> De Soto.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> These lines were published in the Belles-Lettres Repository +in 1821, and shortly after, with a commendation, in the New York +Statesman.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">ABANDON OUR CAMP AND HORSE IN SEARCH OF +SETTLEMENTS—INCIDENTS OF THE FIRST DAY—HEAR A SHOT—CAMP +IN AN OLD INDIAN LODGE—ACORNS FOR SUPPER—KILL A +WOODPECKER—INCIDENTS OF THE SECOND DAY—STERILE +RIDGES—WANT OF WATER—CAMP AT NIGHT IN A DEEP +GORGE—INCIDENTS OF THE THIRD DAY—FIND A HORSE-PATH, AND +PURSUE IT—DISCOVER A MAN ON HORSEBACK—REACH A HUNTER'S +CABIN—INCIDENTS THERE—HE CONDUCTS US BACK TO OUR OLD +CAMP—DESERTED THERE WITHOUT PROVISIONS—DEPLORABLE +STATE—SHIFTS—TAKING OF A TURKEY.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 27th. Action is the price of safety in the woods. Neither dreams +nor poetic visions kept us on our pallets a moment longer than it was +light enough to see the grey tints of morning. Each of us prepared a +compact knapsack, containing a blanket and a few absolute necessaries, +and gave our belts an extra jerk before lifting our guns to our +shoulders; then, secretly wishing our friend Butcher a good time in the +canebrake, we set out with a light pace towards the south. My companion +Bonee<a name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> was much attached to tea, and, as the article of a small tin +pot was indispensable to the enjoyment of this beverage, he burthened +himself with this appendage by strapping it on his back with a green +sash. This was not a very military sort of accoutrement; but as he did +not pride himself in that way, and had not, in fact, the least notion of +the ridiculous figure he cut with it, I was alone in my unexpressed +sense of the Fridayishness of his looks on the march, day by day, across +the prairies and through the woods, with this not very glittering +culinary appendage dangling at his back.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>Hope gave animation to our steps. We struck out from the valley +southerly, which brought us to an elevated open tract, partially wooded, +in which the walking was good. After travelling about six miles, we +heard the report of a gun on our left. Supposing it to proceed from some +white hunter, we tried to get into communication with him, and hallooed +stoutly. This was answered. I withdrew the ball from my gun, and fired. +We then followed the course of the shot and halloo. But, although a +whoop was once heard, which seemed from its intonation to be Indian, we +were unsuccessful in gaining an interview, and, after losing a good deal +of time in the effort, were obliged to give it up, and proceed. We had +now lost some hours.</p> + +<p>Much of our way lay through open oak forests, with a thick bed of fallen +leaves, and we several times searched under these for sweet acorns; but +we uniformly found that the wild turkeys had been too quick for +us—every sweet acorn had been scratched up and eaten, and none remained +but such as were bitter and distasteful. On descending an eminence, we +found the sassafras plentifully, and, breaking off branches of it, +chewed them, which took away the astringent and bad taste of the acorns.</p> + +<p>As night approached, we searched in vain for water on the elevated +grounds, and were compelled to seek the river valley, where we encamped +in an old Indian wigwam of bark, and found the night chilly and cold. We +turned restlessly on our pallets, waiting for day.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 28th. Daylight was most welcome. I built a fire against the stump +of a dead tree, which had been broken off by lightning at a height of +some thirty or forty feet from the ground. We here boiled our tea, and +accurately divided about half an ounce of dried meat, being the last +morsel we had. While thus engaged, a red-headed woodpecker lit on the +tree, some fifteen or twenty feet above our heads, and began pecking. +The visit was a most untimely one for the bird. In a few more moments, +he lay dead at the foot of the tree, and, being plucked, roasted, and +divided, furnished out our repast. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>We then gave the straps of our +accoutrements a tight jerk, by way of preventing a flaccid stomach—an +Indian habit—and set forward with renewed strength and hope. We +travelled this day over a rolling country of hill and dale, with little +to relieve the eye or demand observation, and laid down at night, +fatigued, in the edge of a canebrake.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 29th. A dense fog, which overhung the whole valley, prevented our +quitting camp at a very early hour. When it arose, and the atmosphere +became sufficiently clear to discern our way, we ascended the hills to +our left, and took a west-south-west course.</p> + +<p>Nothing can exceed the roughness and sterility of the country we have +to-day traversed, and the endless succession of steep declivities, and +broken, rocky precipices, surmounted. Our line of march, as soon as we +left the low grounds of the river valley, led over moderately elevated +ridges of oak-openings. We came at length to some hickory trees. Beneath +one of them, the nuts laid in quantities on the ground. We sat down, and +diligently commenced cracking them; but this was soon determined to be +too slow a process to satisfy hungry men, and, gathering a quantity for +our night's encampment, we pushed forward diligently. Tramp! tramp! +tramp! we walked resolutely on, in a straight line, over hill and dale. +Trees, rocks, prairie-grass, the jumping squirrel, the whirring +quail—we gave them a glance, and passed on. We finally saw the sun set; +evening threw its shades around; night presented its sombre hue; and, as +it grew dark, it became cloudy and cold. Still, no water to encamp by +was found, and it finally became so dark that we were forced to grope +our way. By groping in the darkness, we at length stood on the brink of +a precipice, and could distinctly hear the gurgling sound of running +water in the gulf below. It was a pleasing sound; for we had not tasted +a drop since early dawn. Had we still had our horse, we should not have +been able to get him down in the darkness; but, by seizing hold of +bushes, and feeling our way continually, we reached the bottom, and +encamped immediately by the stream. It was a small run of pure mountain +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>water. Soon a fire arose on its banks. We cracked a few of the nuts. We +drank our accustomed tin-cup of tea. We wrapped ourselves in our +blankets upon its immediate margin, and knew no more till early +daylight, when a cold air had quite chilled us.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Nov. 30th. We were happy to get out of this gulf at the earliest dawn. +After travelling a couple of miles, we stepped suddenly into a +well-beaten horse-path, running transversely to our course, with fresh +horse-tracks leading both ways. We stopped to deliberate which end of +the path to take. I thought the right-hand would conduct us to the mouth +of the river which we had been pursuing down, where it could hardly fail +there should be hunters or pioneer settlers located. My companion +thought the left hand should be taken, without offering any satisfactory +reason for it. I determined, in an instant, to rise above him mentally, +by yielding the point, and set out with a firm and ready pace to the +left. We travelled diligently about three miles without meeting anything +to note, but were evidently going back into the wilderness we had just +left, by a wider circuit, when my companion relented, and we turned +about on our tracks toward the mouth of the river. We had not gone far, +and had not yet reached the point of our original issue from the forest, +when we descried a man on horseback, coming toward us. Joy flashed in +our eyes. When he came up, he told us that there was a hunter located at +the mouth of the river, and another, named Wells, nearly equidistant on +the path he was pursuing; and that, if we would follow him, he would +guide us to the latter. This we immediately determined to do, and, after +travelling about seven miles, came in sight of the cabin.</p> + +<p>Our approach was announced by a loud and long-continued barking of dogs, +who required frequent bidding from their master before they could be +pacified. The first object worthy of remark that presented itself on our +emerging from the forest, was a number of deer, bear, and other skins, +fastened to a kind of rude frame, supported by poles, which occupied the +area about the house. These trophies of skill in the chase were regarded +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>with great complacency by our conductor, as he pointed them out, and he +remarked that Wells was "a great hunter, and a forehanded man." There +were a number of acres of ground, from which he had gathered a crop of +corn. The house was a substantial, new-built log tenement, of one room. +The family consisted of the hunter and his wife, and four or five +children, two of whom were men grown, and the youngest a boy of about +sixteen. All, males and females, were dressed in leather prepared from +deerskins. The host himself was a middle-sized, light-limbed, +sharp-faced man. Around the walls of the room hung horns of the deer and +buffalo, with a rifle, shot-pouches, leather coats, dried meats, and +other articles, giving unmistakeable signs of the vocation of our host. +The furniture was of his own fabrication. On one side hung a deerskin, +sewed up in somewhat the shape of the living animal, containing bears' +oil. In another place hung a similar vessel, filled with wild honey.</p> + +<p>All the members of the family seemed erudite in the knowledge of +woodcraft, the ranges and signs of animals, and their food and habits; +and while the wife busied herself in preparing our meal, she +occasionally stopped to interrogate us, or take part in the +conversation. When she had finished her preparations, she invited us to +sit down to a delicious meal of warm corn-bread and butter, honey and +milk, to which we did ample justice. A more satisfactory meal I never +made.</p> + +<p>It was late in the afternoon when our supper was prepared, and we spent +the evening in giving and receiving information of the highest practical +interest to each party. Wells recited a number of anecdotes of hunting, +and of his domestic life. We repaid him with full accounts of our +adventures. What appeared to interest him most, was the accounts of the +bears and other wild animals we had seen. When the hour for rest +arrived, we opened our sacks, and, spreading our blankets on a bearskin +which he furnished, laid down before the fire, and enjoyed a sound +night's repose.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 1st. We were up with the earliest dawning of light, and determined +to regain our position at Camp No, on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>Great North Fork, with all +possible despatch, and pursue our tour westward. We had understood from +the conversation of the hunters among themselves, that they designed +forthwith to proceed on a hunting excursion into the region we had +passed, on the Great North Fork, and determined to avail ourselves of +their guidance to our deposits and horse. We understood that our course +from that point had been circuitous, and that the place could be reached +by a direct line of twenty miles' travel due north-west. We purchased +from our host a dressed deerskin for moccasins, a small quantity of +Indian corn, some wild honey, and a little lead. The corn required +pounding to convert it into meal. This we accomplished by a pestle, +fixed to a loaded swing-pole, playing into a mortar burned into an oak +stump. The payment for these articles, being made in money, excited the +man's cupidity; for, although he had previously determined on going in +that direction, he now refused to guide us to Camp No, unless paid for +it. This was also assented to, with the agreement to furnish us with the +carcase of a deer.</p> + +<p>By eleven o'clock, A. M., all was ready, and, shouldering our knapsacks +and guns, we set forward, accompanied by our host, his three sons, and a +neighbor, making our party to consist of seven men, all mounted on +horses but ourselves, and followed by a pack of hungry, yelping dogs. +Our course was due north-west. As we were heavily laden and sore-footed, +our shoes being literally worn from our feet by the stony tracts we had +passed over, the cavalcade were occasionally obliged to halt till we +came up. This proved such a cause of delay to them, that they finally +agreed to let us ride and walk, alternately, with the young men. In this +way we passed over an undulating tract, not heavily timbered, until +about ten o'clock at night, when we reached our abandoned camp, where we +found our baggage safe. A couple of the men had been detached from the +party, early in the morning, to hunt the stipulated deer; but they did +not succeed in finding any, and came in long before us, with a pair of +turkeys. One of these we despatched for supper, and then all betook +themselves to repose.</p> + + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>Dec. 2d. One of the first objects that presented itself this morning was +our horse Butcher, from the neighboring canebrake, who did not seem to +have well relished his fare on cane leaves, and stood doggedly in front +of our cabin, with a pertinacity which seemed to say, "Give me my +portion of corn." Poor animal! he had not thriven on the sere grass and +scanty water of the Ozarks, where he had once tumbled down the sides of +a cliff with a pack on, been once plunged in the river beyond his depth, +and often struggled with the tangled greenbriar of the valleys, which +held him by the foot. With every attention, he had fallen away; and he +seemed to anticipate that he was yet destined to become wolf's-meat on +the prairies.</p> + +<p>The hunters were up with the earliest dawn, and several of them went out +in quest of game, recollecting their promise to us on that head; but +they all returned after an absence of a couple of hours, unsuccessful. +By this time we had cooked the other turkey for breakfast, which just +sufficed for the occasion. The five men passed a few moments about the +fire, then suddenly caught and saddled their horses, and, mounting +together, bid us good morning, and rode off. We were taken quite aback +by this movement, supposing that they would have felt under obligation, +as they had been paid for it, to furnish us some provisions. We looked +intently after them, as they rode up the long sloping eminence to the +north of us. They brought forcibly to my mind the theatrical +representation, in the background, of the march of the Forty Thieves, as +they wind down the mountain, before they present themselves at the front +of the cave, with its charmed gates. But there was no "open sesame!" for +us. Cast once more on our own resources in the wilderness, the +alternative seemed to be pressed upon our minds, very forcibly, "hunt or +starve." Serious as the circumstances appeared, yet, when we reflected +upon their manners and conversation, their obtuseness to just +obligation, their avarice, and their insensibility to our actual wants, +we could not help rejoicing that they were gone.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 3d. Left alone, we began to reflect closely on our situation, and +the means of extricating ourselves from this <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>position. If we had called +it camp "No" from our disappointment at not finding it inhabited on our +first arrival, it was now again appropriately camp "No," from not +obtaining adequate relief from the hunters. We had procured a dressed +buckskin for making moccasins. We had a little pounded corn, in a shape +to make hunters' bread. We had not a mouthful of meat. I devoted part of +the day to making a pair of Indian shoes. We had not a single charge of +shot left. We had procured lead enough to mould just five bullets. This +I carefully did. I then sallied out in search of game, scanning +cautiously the neighboring canebrake, and fired, at different times, +three balls, unsuccessfully, at turkeys. It was evident, as I had the +birds within range, that my gun had been sprung in the heavy fall I had +had, as before related, in the crossing Calamarca. My companion then +took <i>his</i> gun, and also made an unsuccessful shot. When evening +approached, a flock of turkeys came to roost near by. We had now just +<i>one</i> ball left; everything depended on <i>that</i>. I took it to the large +and firm stump of an oak, and cut it into exactly thirty-two pieces, +with geometrical precision. I then beat the angular edges of each, until +they assumed a sufficiently globular shape to admit of their being +rolled on a hard surface, under a pressure. This completed their +globular form. I then cleansed my companion's gun, and carefully loaded +it with the thirty-two shot. We then proceeded to the roost, which was +on some large oaks, in a contiguous valley. I carried a torch, which I +had carefully made at the camp. My companion took the loaded gun, and I, +holding the torch near the sights at the same time, so that its rays +fell directly on the birds, he selected one, and fired. It proved to be +one of the largest and heaviest, and fell to the earth with a sound. We +now returned to camp, and prepared a part of it for supper, determining +to husband the remainder so as to last till we should reach settlements +by holding a due west course.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 4th. We had prepared ourselves to start west this day; but it +rained from early dawn to dark, which confined us <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>closely to our cabin. +Rain is one of the greatest annoyances to the woodsman. Generally, he +has no shelter against it, and must sit in it, ride in it, or walk in +it. Where there is no shelter, the two latter are preferable. But, as we +had a split-board roof, we kept close, and busied ourselves with more +perfect preparations for our next sally. I had some minerals that +admitted of being more closely and securely packed, and gladly availed +myself of the opportunity to accomplish it. Our foot and leg gear, also, +required renovating. Experience had been our best teacher from the +first; and hunger and danger kept us perpetually on the <i>qui vive</i>, and +made us wise in little expedients.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Elision of Pettibone.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER VII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">PROCEED WEST—BOG OUR HORSE—CROSS THE KNIFE HILLS—REACH THE +UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER—ABANDON THE HORSE AT A HUNTER'S, AND +PROCEED WITH PACKS—OBJECTS OF PITY—SUGAR-LOAF +PRAIRIE—CAMP UNDER A CLIFF—FORD THE UNICA TWICE—DESCEND +INTO A CAVERN—REACH BEAVER RIVER, THE HIGHEST POINT OF +OCCUPANCY BY A HUNTER POPULATION.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 5th. The rain ceased during the night, and left us a clear +atmosphere in the morning. At an early hour we completed the package of +the horse, and, taking the reins, I led him to the brink of the river, +and with difficulty effected a passage. The cliffs which formed the +western side of the valley, presented an obstacle not easily surmounted. +By leading the animal in a zigzag course, however, this height was +finally attained. The prospect, as far as the eye could reach, was +discouraging. Hill on hill rose before us, with little timber, it is +true, to impede us, but implying a continual necessity of crossing +steeps and depressions. After encountering this rough surface about two +miles, we came into a valley having a stream tributary to the Great +North Fork of White river, which we had quitted that morning, but at a +higher point. In this sub-valley we found our way impeded by another +difficulty—namely, the brush and small canes that grew near the brook. +To avoid this impediment, I took the horse across a low piece of ground, +having a thicket, but which appeared to be firm. In this I was mistaken; +for the animal's feet soon began to sink, and ere long he stuck fast. +The effort to extricate him but served to sink him deeper, and, by +pawing to get out, he continually widened the slough in which he had +sunk. We <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>then obtained poles, and endeavored to pry him up; but our own +footing was continually giving way, and we at length beheld him in a +perfect slough of soft black mud. After getting his pack off, we decided +to leave him to his fate. We carried the pack to dry ground, on one side +of the valley, and spread the articles out, not without deeply +regretting the poor beast's plight. But then it occurred to us that, if +the horse were abandoned, we must also abandon our camp-kettle, large +axe, beds, and most of our camp apparatus; and another and concentrated +effort was finally resolved on. To begin, we cut down two tall saplings, +by means of which the horse was pried up from the bottom of the slough. +He was then grasped by the legs and turned over, which brought his feet +in contact with the more solid part of the ground. A determined effort, +both of horse and help, now brought him to his feet. He raised himself +up, and, by pulling with all our might, we brought him on dry ground. I +then led him gently to our place of deposit, and, by means of bunches of +sere grass, we both busied ourselves first to rub off the mud and wet, +and afterwards to groom him, and rub him dry. When he was properly +restored, it was found that he was able to carry his pack-saddle and +pack; and he was led slowly up the valley about three miles, where we +encamped. The grass in this little valley was of a nourishing quality, +and by stopping early we allowed him to recruit himself. We did not +estimate our whole distance this day at more than nine miles.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 6th. Butcher had improved his time well in the tender grass during +the night, and presented a more spirited appearance in the morning. We +were now near the head of Bogbrook, which we had been following; and as +we quitted its sides, long to be remembered for our mishap, we began to +ascend an elevated and bleak tract of the Mocama or Knife hills, so +called, over which the winds rushed strongly as we urged our way. Few +large trees were seen on these eminences, which were often bare, with a +hard cherty footing, replaced sometimes by clusters of brambles and +thickets. In one of these, a valuable <i>couteau de chasse</i> was swept from +its sheath at my side, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>lost. I was now reduced to a single knife, +of the kind fabricated for the Indians, under the name of scalper. For a +distance of sixteen miles we held on our way, in a west-south-west +course, turning neither to the right nor left. As night approached, we +found ourselves descending into a considerable valley, caused by a +river. The shrubbery and grass of its banks had been swept by fire in +the fall, and a new crop of grass was just rising. We formed our +encampment in this fire-swept area, which afforded Butcher another +benefit, and made some amends for his scanty fare among the bleak +eminences of the Ozarks. This stream proved to be the Little North Fork +of White river. We here despatched the last morsel of our turkey.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 7th. The ascent of the hills which bounded the valley on the +south-west was found to be very difficult; and when the summit was +reached, there spread before us an extensive prairie, of varied surface. +Trees occasionally appeared, but were in no place so thickly diffused as +to prevent the growth of a beautiful carpet of prairie grass. When we +had gone about six miles, a bold mound-like hill rose on our left, which +seemed a favorable spot for getting a view of the surrounding country. +We had been told by the hunters that in travelling fifteen miles about +west, we should reach a settlement at Sugar-loaf Prairie, on the main +channel of the Unica or White river. But on reaching the summit of this +natural look-out, we could descry nothing that betokened human +habitation. As far as the eye could reach, prairies and groves filled +the undulating vista. On reaching its foot again, where our horse was +tied, we changed our course to the south, believing that our directions +had been vague. We had gone about a mile in this direction, when we +entered a faint and old horse-path. This gave animation to our steps. We +pursued it about three miles, when it fell into another and plainer +path, having the fresh tracks of horses. We were now on elevated ground, +which commanded views of the country all around. Suddenly the opposite +side of a wide valley appeared to open far beneath us, and, stepping +forward the better to scan it, the river of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>which we were in search +presented its bright, broad, and placid surface to our view, at several +hundred feet below. We stood admiringly on the top of a high, rocky, and +precipitous cliff. Instinctively to shout, was my first impulse. My +companion, as he came up, also shouted. We had reached the object of our +search.</p> + +<p>Pursuing the brow of the precipice about a mile, a log building and some +fields were discovered on the opposite bank. On descending the path +whose traces we had followed, it brought us to a ford. We at once +prepared to cross the river, which was four or five hundred yards wide, +reaching, in some places, half-leg high. On ascending the opposite bank, +we came to the house of a Mr. M'Garey, who received us with an air of +hospitality, and made us welcome to his abode. He had several grown +sons, who were present, and who, as we found by their costume and +conversation, were hunters. Mrs. M'G. was engaged in trying bears' fat, +and in due time she invited us to sit down to a meal of these scraps, +with excellent corn-bread and sassafras tea, with sugar and milk, served +in cups.</p> + +<p>M'Garey had a bluff frankness of manner, with an air of independence in +the means of living, and an individuality of character, which impressed +us favorably. He told us that we were eight hundred miles west of the +Mississippi by the stream, that White river was navigable by keel-boats +for this distance, and that there were several settlements on its banks. +He had several acres in cultivation in Indian corn, possessed horses, +cows, and hogs, and, as we observed at the door, a hand-mill. At a +convenient distance was a smokehouse, where meats were preserved. I +observed a couple of odd volumes of books on a shelf. He was evidently a +pioneer on the Indian land. He said that the Cherokees had been +improperly located along the western bank of White river, extending to +the Arkansas, and that the effect was to retard and prevent the purchase +and settlement of the country by the United States. He complained of +this, as adverse to the scattered hunters, who were anxious to get +titles for their lands. He did not represent the Cherokees as being +hostile, or as having committed any depredations. But he depicted the +Osages as the scourge and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>terror of the country. They roamed from the +Arkansas to the Missouri frontier, and pillaged whoever fell in their +way. He detailed the particulars of a robbery committed in the very +house we were sitting in, when they took away horses, clothes, and +whatever they fancied. They had visited him in this way twice, and +recently stole from him eight beaver-skins; and during their last foray +in the valley, they had robbed one of his neighbors, called Teen Friend, +of all his arms, traps, and skins, and detained him a prisoner. This +tribe felt hostile to all the settlers on the outskirts of Missouri and +Arkansas, and were open robbers and plunderers of all the whites who +fell defenceless into their hands. They were, he thought, particularly +to be dreaded in the region which we proposed to explore. He also said +that the Osages were hostile to the newly-arrived Cherokees, who had +migrated from the east side of the Mississippi, and had settled in the +country between the Red river and Arkansas, and that these tribes were +daily committing trespasses upon each other. Having myself, but a short +time before, noticed the conclusion of a peace between the western +Cherokees and Osages at St. Louis, before General Clark, I was surprised +to hear this; but he added, as an illustration of this want of faith, +that when the Cherokees returned from that treaty, they pursued a party +of Osages near the banks of White river, and stole twenty horses from +them.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 8th. On comparing opinions, for which purpose we had an interview +outside the premises, it seemed that these statements were to be +received with some grains of allowance. They were natural enough for a +victim of Indian robberies, and doubtless true; but the events had not +been recent, and they were not deemed sufficient to deter us from +proceeding in our contemplated tour to the higher Ozarks at the sources +of the river. It was evident that we had erred a good deal from our +stick bridge at Calamarca, from the proper track; but we were +nevertheless determined not to relinquish our object.</p> + +<p>Having obtained the necessary information, we determined to pursue our +way, for which purpose we turned the horse to graze with M'Garey's, rid +ourselves of all our heavy baggage <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>by depositing it with him, and +prepared our knapsacks for this new essay. When ready, our host refused +to take any pay for his hospitalities, but, conducting us to his +smokehouse, opened the door, and then, drawing his knife from its +sheath, placed it, with an air of pomposity, in my hand, offering the +handle-end, and said, "Go in and cut." I did so, taking what appeared to +be sufficient to last us to our next expected point of meeting hunters. +The place was well filled with buffalo and bear meat, both smoked and +fresh, hanging on cross-bars.</p> + +<p>At nine o'clock we bade our kind entertainer adieu, and, taking +directions to reach Sugar-loaf Prairie, crossed over the river by the +same ford which we had taken in our outward track from Camp No, in the +valley of the Great North Fork. Relieved from the toilsome task of +leading the horse, we ascended the opposite cliffs with alacrity, and +vigorously pursued our course, over elevated ground, for about sixteen +miles. The path then became obscure; the ground was so flinty and hard, +that it was in vain we searched for tracks of horses' feet. Some time +was lost in this search, and we finally encamped in a cane bottom in the +river valley.</p> + +<p>My companion had again charged himself with the coffeepot, which he +carried in a similar manner at his back; and when I came to open my +pack, told me he thought I had not cut deep enough into the dried bear's +meat of M'Garey's smokehouse. To a man who refused all pay, and had been +invariably kind, I felt that moderation, in this respect, was due. I +was, besides, myself to be the carrier of it; and we, indeed, never had +cause to regret the carefulness of my selection.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 9th. Finding ourselves in the river's bottom, we forced our way, +with no small effort, through the thick growth of cane and vines. We +had, perhaps, advanced seven miles through this dense vegetation, when +we suddenly burst into a small cleared space. Here, in a little, +incomplete shanty, we found a woman and her young child. She had not a +morsel to eat, and looked half famished. Her husband had gone into the +forest to hunt something to eat. The child looked feeble. We were +touched at the sight, and did all we could to relieve <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>them. They had +been in that position of new-comers about two weeks, having come up from +the lower parts of the river.</p> + +<p>From this point, we ascended the river hills eastwardly, and pursued our +journey along an elevated range to the Sugar-loaf Prairie—a name which +is derived from the striking effects of denudation on the limestone +cliffs, which occupy the most elevated positions along this valley. We +were received with blunt hospitality by a tall man in leather, called +Coker, whose manner appears to be characteristic of the hunter. Our +approach was heralded by the usual loud and long barking of dogs, and we +found the premises surrounded by the invariable indications of a +successful hunter—skins of the bear and other animals, stretched out on +frames to dry.</p> + +<p>We were no sooner at home with our entertainer, than he began to +corroborate what we had before heard of the hostility of the Osages. He +considered the journey at this season hazardous, as he thought they had +not yet broke up their fall hunting-camps, and retired to their villages +on the Grand Osaw (Osage). He also thought it a poor season for game, +and presented a rather discouraging prospect to our view. My gun having +proved useless, we tried to obtain a rifle which he possessed, and +seemed willing to part with, but not at a reasonable price.</p> + +<p>Mr. Coker represented the settlers of Sugar-loaf Prairie to consist of +four families, situated within the distance of eight miles, including +both banks of the river. This was exclusive of two families living at +Beaver creek, the highest point yet occupied.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 10th. It was noon before we were prepared to depart from Coker's. +The old man refused to take anything for our meals and lodging; and we +bade him adieu, after taking his directions as to the best route to +pursue to reach Beaver creek, our next point. We travelled through a +lightly-timbered, hilly, barren country, about eight miles, when the +skies became overcast, and some rain fell. It was still an early hour to +encamp, but we came at this time into a small ravine, with running +water, which had on one bank a shelving cave in the limestone <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>rock, +forming a protection from the rain. We built a fire from red cedar, +which emitted a strong aromatic odor. The weather begins to assume a +wintry character; this is the first day we have been troubled with cold +fingers.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 11th. We left our camp at the cave on Cedar brook, and resumed our +march at an early hour, and found the face of the country still rough +and undulating, but covered, to a great extent, with brush. My companion +thought we had gone far enough to have struck the waters of the Beaver, +and, as he carried the compass this day, he deviated westward from the +intended course. This brought us to the banks of a river, which he +insisted, contrary to my opinion, must be the Beaver. To me this did not +seem probable, but, yielding the point to him, we forded the stream at +waist deep. We then ascended a lofty and difficult range of river hills, +and, finding ourselves now at the level of the country, we held on in a +westerly course, till it became clearly evident, even to my companion, +that we were considerably west of the White river. We then retraced our +steps, descended the river hills to the bank of the stream, and followed +up its immediate margin, in search of a convenient spot for encampment; +for, by this time, night approached rapidly. We were soon arrested by a +precipitous cliff, against the base of which the river washed. As the +sun sank lower, we felt a keen and cold wind, but could not find a stick +of wood on the western bank with which to kindle a fire. The alternative +presented to us was, either to remain here all night without a fire, +exposed to the chilling blast, or cross a deep stream to the opposite +shore, where there was an extensive alluvial plain, covered with trees +and the cane plant, and promising an abundance of fuel.</p> + +<p>Night had already closed around us, when we decided to cross the river. +We found it to be four or five feet deep, and some two hundred yards +wide. When we got over, it was with great difficulty that we succeeded +in collecting a sufficiency of dry materials to kindle a fire; and by +the time we had accomplished it, our wet clothes had become stiff and +cold, the wind at the same time blowing very fiercely. Our utmost +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>efforts were required to dry and warm ourselves, nor did we attain +these points in a sufficient degree to secure a comfortable night's +rest.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 12th. The ground this morning was covered with white hoar-frost, +with a keen and cold air, and a wintry sky. Early daylight found us +treading our way across the low grounds to the cliffs. We soon ascended +on an elevated rocky shore, bordering the river, which was completely +denuded of trees and shrubbery. It was early, the sun not having yet +risen, when we beheld before us, rising out of the ground, a column of +air which appeared to be of a warmer temperature. Its appearance was +like that of smoke from a chimney on a frosty morning. On reaching it, +the phenomenon was found to be caused by a small orifice in the earth, +from which rarefied air issued. On looking down intently, and partially +excluding the light, it was seen to be a fissure in the limestone rock, +with jagged, narrow sides, leading down into a cavern. I determined to +try the descent, and found the opening large enough to admit my body. +Feeling for a protuberance on which to rest my feet, and closely +pressing the sides of the orifice, I slowly descended. My fear was that +the crevice would suddenly enlarge, and let me drop. But I descended in +safety. I thus let myself down directly about twenty feet, and came to +the level floor of a gallery which led in several directions. The light +from above was sufficient to reveal the dark outlines of a ramified +cavern, and to guide my footsteps for a distance. I went as far in the +largest gallery as the light cast any direct rays, but found nothing at +all on the floor or walls to reward my adventure. It was a notable +fissure in a carbonate of lime, entirely dry, and without stalactites. +What I most feared in these dim recesses, was some carnivorous animal, +for whose residence it appeared to be well adapted. Having explored it +as far as I could command any light to retrace my steps, I returned to +the foot of the original orifice. I found no difficulty, by pressing on +each side, in ascending to the surface, bringing along a fragment of the +limestone rock. I afterwards observed, while descending the river, that +this cavern was in a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>high, precipitous part of the coast, of calcareous +rock, the foot of which was washed by the main channel of White river.</p> + +<p>We now resumed our march, and, at the distance of about six miles, +reached Beaver creek, a mile or two above its mouth. It is a beautiful, +clear stream, of sixty yards wide, with a depth of two feet, and a hard, +gravelly bottom. We forded it, and, keeping down the bank, soon fell +into a horse-path, which led us, in following it about a mile and a +half, to a hunter's dwelling, occupied by a man named Fisher. He +received us in a friendly manner, and we took up our abode with him. Six +or eight hundred yards higher, there was another cabin, occupied by a +man named Holt. Both had been but a short time located at this place; +they had not cleared any ground, nor even finished the log houses they +occupied. Both buildings were on the bank of the river, on the edge of a +large and very fertile bottom, well wooded, and with a very picturesque +coast of limestone opposite, whose denuded pinnacles had received the +name of the Little Tower.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">OBSTACLE PRODUCED BY THE FEAR OF OSAGE HOSTILITY—MEANS +PURSUED TO OVERCOME IT—NATURAL MONUMENTS OF DENUDATION IN +THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS—PURITY OF THE WATER—PEBBLES OF +YELLOW JASPER—COMPLETE THE HUNTERS' CABINS—A JOB IN +JEWELLERY—CONSTRUCT A BLOWPIPE FROM CANE—WHAT IS THOUGHT +OF RELIGION.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 13th. Holt and Fisher were the highest occupants of the White river +valley. They had reached this spot about four months before, and had +brought their effects partly on pack-horses, and partly in canoes. The +site was judiciously chosen. A finer tract of rich river bottom could +not have been found, while the site commanded an illimitable region, +above and around it, for hunting the deer, buffalo, elk, and other +species, besides the beaver, otter, and small furred animals, which are +taken in traps. We tried, at first vainly, to persuade them to accompany +us in our further explorations. To this they replied that it was Osage +hunting-ground, and that tribe never failed to plunder and rob all +who fell in their power, particularly hunters and trappers. And besides, +they were but recent settlers, and had not yet completed their houses +and improvements.</p> + +<p>As we were neither hunters nor trappers, we had no fears of Osage +hostility; for this was, in a measure, the just retribution of that +tribe for an intrusion on their lands, and the destruction of its game, +which constituted its chief value to them. Nor did we anticipate +encountering them at all, at this season, as they must have withdrawn, +long ere this, to their villages on the river Osage.</p> +<br /> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>Dec. 14th. There appears no other way to induce the hunters to go with +us, but to aid them in completing their cottages and improvements. This +we resolved to do. Holt then agreed to accompany us as a guide and +huntsman, with the further stipulation that he was to have the horse +which had been left at M'Garey's, and a small sum of money, with liberty +also to undertake a journey to the settlements below for corn. Hereupon, +Fisher also consented to accompany us.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 15th. This obstacle to our movements being overcome, we busied +ourselves in rendering to the hunters all the assistance in our power, +and made it an object to show them that we could do this effectively. We +began by taking hold of the frow and axe, and aiding Holt to split +boards for covering a portion of the roof of his house. I doubt whether +my companion had ever done the like work before; I am sure I never had; +but having thrown myself on this adventure, I most cheerfully submitted +to all its adverse incidents.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 16th. This morning, Holt and Fisher—the latter accompanied by his +son, with three horses—set out on their journey to purchase corn, +leaving us, in the interim, to provide fuel for their families; a labor +by no means light, as the cold was now severe, and was daily growing +more intense. To-day, for the first time, we observed floating ice in +the river; and, even within the cabins, water exposed in vessels for a +few moments, acquired a thin coating of ice.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 17th. At daybreak we built a substantial, rousing fire in the +cabin, of logs several feet long; we then pounded the quantity of corn +necessary for the family's daily use. This process brings the article +into the condition of coarse grits, which are boiled soft, and it then +bears the name of homony. Of this nutritious dish our meals generally +consist, with boiled or fried bear's bacon, and a decoction of sassafras +tea. The fat of the bear is very white and delicate, and appears to be +more digestible than fresh pork, which is apt to cloy in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>stomach. +After breakfast, wishing to give the hunters evidence of our capacity of +being useful, we took our axes and sallied out into the adjoining wood, +and began to fell the trees, cut them into proper lengths for firewood, +and pile the brush. About five o'clock, we were summoned to our second +meal, which is made to serve as dinner and supper. We then carried up +the quantity of firewood necessary for the night. This consumed the +remainder of the short December day; and, before lying down for the +night, we replenished the ample fire. This sketch may serve as an +outline of our daily industry, during the eleven days we tarried with +the hunters.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 18th. I have mentioned the fondness of my companion for tea. This +afternoon he thought to produce an agreeable surprise in our hostess's +mind, by preparing a dish of young hyson. But she sipped it as she would +have done the decoction of some bitter herb, and frankly confessed that +she did not like it as well as the forest substitutes, namely, +sassafras, dittany, and spicewood. And the manner in which she alluded +to it as "store tea," plainly denoted the article not to be numbered +among the wants of a hunter's life.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 19th. The river having been closed with ice within the last two +days, we crossed it this afternoon to visit the two pyramidal monuments +of geological denudation which mark the limestone range of the opposite +shore. I determined, if possible, to ascend one of them. The ascent lies +through a defile of rocks. By means of projections, which could +sometimes be reached by cedar roots, and now and then a leap or a +scramble, I succeeded in ascending one of them to near its apex, which +gave me a fine view of the windings of the river. The monuments consist +of stratified limestone, which has, all but these existing peaks, +crumbled under the effects of disintegration. I observed no traces of +organic remains. It appeared to be of the same general character with +the metalliferous beds of Missouri, and is, viewed in extenso, like +that, based on grey or cream-colored sand-rock. I found this limestone +rock cavernous, about seven miles below.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>In crossing the river, I was impressed with the extreme purity of the +water. The ice near the cliffs having been formed during a calm night, +presented the crystalline purity of glass, through which every +inequality, pebble, and stone in its bed, could be plainly perceived. +The surface on which we stood was about an inch thick, bending as we +walked. The depth of water appeared to be five or six feet; but I was +told that it was fully twenty. The pebbles at this place are often a +small, pear-shaped, opaque, yellow jasper. They appear to have been +disengaged from some mineral bed at a higher point on the stream.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 20th. Observed as a day of rest, it being the Sabbath. The +atmosphere is sensibly milder, and attended with haziness, which appears +to betoken rain.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 21st. We employed ourselves till three o'clock in hewing and +splitting planks for Holt's cabin floor, when rain compelled us to +desist.</p> + +<p>The following circumstance recently occurred here: Two hunters had a +dispute about a horse, which it was alleged one had stolen from the +other; the person aggrieved, meeting the other some days after in the +woods, shot him dead. He immediately fled, keeping the woods for several +weeks; when the neighboring hunters, aroused by so glaring an outrage, +assembled and set out in quest of him. Being an expert woodsman, the +offender eluded them for some time; but at last they obtained a glimpse +of him as he passed through a thicket, when one of his pursuers shot him +through the shoulder, but did not kill him. This event happened a few +days before our arrival in this region. It will probably be the cause of +several murders, before the feud is ended.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 22d. The rain having ceased, we resumed and completed our job of +yesterday at Holt's. The atmosphere is hazy, damp, and warm.</p> + +<p>My medical skill had not been called on since the affair at the Four +Bear creek, where my companion sprained his ankle. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>The child of Mrs. +Holt was taken ill with a complaint so manifestly bilious, that I gave +it relief by administering a few grains of calomel. This success led to +an application from her neighbor, Mrs. F., whose delicate situation made +the responsibility of a prescription greater. This also proved +favorable, and I soon had other applicants.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 23d. About ten o'clock this morning, Holt and Fisher returned, +laden with corn. The day was mild and pleasant, the severity of the +atmosphere having moderated, and the sky become clear and bright. They +appeared to be pleased with the evidences of our thrift and industry +during their absence, and we now anticipated with pleasure an early +resumption of our journey. To this end, we were resolved that nothing +should be wanting on our part. We had already faithfully devoted seven +days to every species of labor that was necessary to advance their +improvements.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 24th. I had yesterday commenced hewing out a table for Holt's +domicile, from a fine, solid block of white-ash. I finished the task +to-day, to the entire admiration of all. We now removed our lodgings +from Fisher's to Holt's, and employed the remainder of the day in +chinking and daubing his log house.</p> + +<p>Of these two men, who had pushed themselves to the very verge of western +civilization, it will be pertinent to say, that their characters were +quite different. Holt was the better hunter, and more social and ready +man. He was quick with the rifle, and suffered no animal to escape him. +Fisher was of a more deliberative temperament, and more inclined to +surround himself with the reliances of agriculture. He was also the +better mechanic, and more inclined to labor. Holt hated labor like an +Indian, and, like an Indian, relied for subsistence on the chase +exclusively. Fisher was very superstitious, and a believer in +witchcraft. Holt was scarcely a believer in anything, but was ever ready +for action. He could talk a little Chickasaw, and had several of their +chansons, which he sung. Both men had kept for years moving along on the +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>outer frontiers, ever ready for a new remove; and it was plain enough, +to the listener to their tales of wild adventure, that they had not been +impelled, thus far, on the ever advancing line of border life, from the +observance of any of the sterner virtues or qualities of civilized +society. There were occasions in their career, if we may venture an +opinion, when to shoot a deer, or to shoot a man, were operations that +could be performed "agreeably to circumstances." To us, however, they +were uniformly kind, frank, friendly; for, indeed, there was no possible +light in which our interests were brought in conflict. We were no +professed hunters, and our journey into the Ozark hunting-grounds was an +advantage to them, by making them better acquainted with the geography +of their position.</p> + +<p>They could not quit home on such a journey, however, without leaving +some meat for their families; and they both set out to-day for this +purpose. It appeared that they had, some days before, killed on a river +bottom, about twelve miles above this point in the river valley, a +buffalo, a bear, and a panther; but, not having horses with them, had +scaffolded the carcases of the two former. Notwithstanding this +precaution, the wolves had succeeded in reaching the buffalo meat, and +had partly destroyed it. The carcase of the bear was safe. They returned +in the afternoon with their trophies. They also brought down some of the +leg-bones of the buffalo, for the sake of their marrow. They are boiled +in water, to cook the marrow, and then cracked open. The quantity of +marrow is immense. It is eaten while hot, with salt. We thought it +delicious.</p> + +<p>We learn by conversing with the hunters that a high value is set upon +the dog, and that they are sought with great avidity. We heard of one +instance where a cow was given for a good hunting dog.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 25th, Christmas day. At our suggestion, the hunters went out to +shoot some turkeys for a Christmas dinner, and, after a couple of hours' +absence, returned with fourteen. In the meantime, we continued our +labors in completing the house.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>I prevailed on our hostess, to-day, to undertake a turkey-pie, with a +crust of Indian meal; and, the weather being mild, we partook of it +under the shade of a tree, on the banks of the river.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 26th. Having now obviated every objection, and convinced the +hunters that no dangers were to be apprehended at this late season from +the Osages, and having completed the preparations for the tour, +to-morrow is fixed on as the time of starting.</p> + +<p>Our hostess mentioned to me that she had a brass ring, which she had +worn for many years, and declared it to be an infallible remedy for the +cramp, with which she had been much afflicted before putting it on, but +had not had the slightest return of it since. She was now much +distressed on account of having lately broken it; and, observing the +care I bestowed on my mineralogical packages, she thought I must possess +skill in such affairs, and solicited me to mend it. It was in vain that +I represented that I had no blowpipe or other necessary apparatus for +the purpose. She was convinced I could do it, and I was unwilling to +show a disobliging disposition by refusing to make the attempt. I +therefore contrived to make a blowpipe by cutting several small pieces +of cane, and fitting one into the other until the aperture was drawn +down to the required degree of fineness. A hollow cut in a billet of +wood, and filled with live hickory coals, answered instead of a lamp; +and with a small bit of silver money, and a little borax applied to the +broken ring, with my wooden blowpipe, I soon soldered it, and afterwards +filed off the redundant silver with a small file. I must remark that the +little file and bit of borax, without which the job could not have been +accomplished, was produced from the miscellaneous housewife of my +hostess.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 27th. Rain, which began at night, rendered it impossible to think +of starting to-day. It was the Sabbath, and was improved as a time of +rest and reflection. I took the occasion to make some allusions, in a +gentle and unobtrusive way, to the subject, and, in connection with some +remarks <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>which one of my entertainers had made a few days previously, on +the subject of religion generally, condense the following +observations:—He said that while living on the banks of the +Mississippi, a few years ago, he occasionally attended religious +meetings, and thought them a very good thing; but he had found one of +the preachers guilty of a gross fraud, and determined never to go again. +He thought that a man might be as good without going to church as with +it, and that it seemed to him to be a useless expenditure, &c.; very +nearly, indeed, the same kind of objections which are made by careless +and unbelieving persons everywhere, I fancy, <i>in</i> the woods or <i>out</i> of +them.</p> + +<p>The hardships of the hunter's life fall heavily on females. Mrs. Holt +tells me that she has not lived in a floored cabin for several +years—that during this period they have changed their abode many +times—and that she has lost four children, who all died under two +years.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER IX.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">PROCEED INTO THE HUNTING-COUNTRY +OF THE OSAGES—DILUVIAL +HILLS AND PLAINS—BALD HILL—SWAN CREEK—OSAGE +ENCAMPMENTS—FORM OF THE OSAGE LODGE—THE HABITS OF THE +BEAVER—DISCOVER A REMARKABLE CAVERN IN THE LIMESTONE ROCK, +HAVING NATURAL VASES OF PURE WATER—ITS GEOLOGICAL AND +METALLIFEROUS CHARACTER—REACH THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARK +RANGE, WHICH IS FOUND TO DISPLAY A BROAD REGION OF FERTILE +SOIL, OVERLYING A MINERAL DEPOSIT.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>My stay, which I regarded in the light of a pilgrimage, at the hunters' +cabins, was now drawing to a close. I had originally reached their camps +after a fatiguing and devious march through some of the most sterile and +rough passages of the Ozarks, guided only by a pocket compass, and had +thrown myself on their friendship and hospitality to further my +progress. Without their friendly guidance, it was felt that no higher +point in this elevation could be reached. Every objection raised by them +had now been surmounted. I had waited their preliminary journey for corn +for their families, and my companion and myself had made ourselves +useful by helping, in the mean time, to complete their cabins and +improvements. While thus engaged, I had become tolerably familiar with +their character, physical and moral, and may add something more +respecting them. Holt, as I have before indicated, was a pure hunter, +expert with the rifle, and capable of the periodical exertion and +activity which hunting requires, but prone to take his ease when there +was meat in the cabin, and averse to all work beside. He was of an easy, +good-natured temper, and would submit to a great deal of inconvenience +and want, before he would rouse himself. But when out in the woods, or +on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>prairies, he was quite at home. He knew the habits and range of +animals, their time for being out of their coverts, the kind of food +they sought, and the places where it was likely to be found. He had a +quick eye and a sure aim, and quadruped or bird that escaped him, must +be nimble. He was about five feet eight inches in height, stout and full +faced, and was particular in his gear and dress, but in nothing so much +as the skin wrapper that secured his rifle-lock. This was always in +perfect order.</p> + +<p>Fisher was two or three inches taller, more slender, lank of features, +and sterner. He was a great believer in the bewitching of guns, seemed +often to want a good place to fire from, had more deliberation in what +he did, and was not so successful a sportsman. He had, too, when in the +cabin, more notions of comfort, built a larger dwelling, worked more on +it, and had some desires for cultivation. When on the prairie, he +dismounted from his horse with some deliberation; but, before he was +well on terra firma, Holt had slid off and killed his game. The shots of +both were true, and, between them, we ran no danger of wanting a meal.</p> + +<p>It was the twenty-eighth day of December before every objection to their +guiding us was obviated, and, although neither of them had been relieved +from the fear of Osage hostility, they mounted their horses in the +morning, and announced themselves ready to proceed. Our course now lay +toward the north-west, and the weather was still mild and favorable. We +ascended through the heavily-timbered bottom-lands of the valley for a +mile or two, and then passed by an easy route through the valley cliffs, +to the prairie uplands north of them. After getting fairly out of the +gorge we had followed, we entered on a rolling highland prairie, with +some clumps of small forest trees, and covered, as far as the eye could +reach, with coarse wild grass, and the seed-pods of autumnal flowers, +nodding in the breeze. It was a waving surface. Sometimes the elevations +assumed a conical shape. Sometimes we crossed a depression with trees. +Often the deer bounded before us, and frequently the sharp crack of the +rifle was the first intimation to me that game was near. Holt told me +that the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>error of the young or inexperienced hunters was in looking too +far for their game. The plan to hunt successfully was, to raise the eye +slowly from the spot just before you, for the game is often close by, +and not to set it on distant objects at first. We moved on leisurely, +with eyes and ears alert for every sight and sound. A bird, a quadruped, +a track—these were important themes.</p> + +<p>When night approached, we encamped near the foot of an eminence, called, +from its appearance, the Bald Hill. An incident occurred early in our +march, which gave us no little concern. A fine young horse of one of the +neighboring hunters, which had been turned out to range, followed our +track from White river valley, and, notwithstanding all the efforts of +our guides, could not be driven back. At length they fired the dry +prairie-grass behind us, the wind serving, deeming this the most +effectual way of driving him back. The expedient did not, however, prove +eventually successful; for, after a while, the animal again made his +appearance. We lost some time in these efforts. It was thought better, +at length, that I should ride him, which was accomplished by placing a +deerskin upon his back by way of saddle, with a kind of bridle, &c. The +animal was spirited, and, thus mounted, I kept up with the foremost.</p> + +<p>We travelled to-day about ten miles. The day was clear, but chilly, with +a north-westerly wind, which we had to face. Holt had killed a young doe +during the day, which was quickly skinned, and he took along the choice +parts of it for our evening's repast. Part of the carcase was left +behind as wolf's-meat.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Dec. 29th. Little change appeared in the country. For about six miles we +travelled over hill and dale, meeting nothing new, but constantly +expecting something. We then descended into the valley of Swan creek—a +clear stream of thirty yards wide, a tributary of White river. Its banks +present a rich alluvial bottom, well wooded with maple, hickory, ash, +hag-berry, elm, and sycamore. We followed up this valley about five +miles, when it commenced raining, and we were compelled <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>to encamp. +Protection from the rain, however, was impossible. We gained some little +shelter under the broad roots of a clump of fallen trees and limbs, and +passed a most comfortless night, being wet, and without a fire.</p> + +<p>The next morning, (Dec. 30th,) at the earliest dawn, we were in motion. +After ascending the Swan creek valley about nine miles, through a most +fertile tract, we fell into the Osage trail, a well-beaten horse-path, +and passed successively three of their deserted camps, which had +apparently been unoccupied for a month or more. The poles and frames of +each lodge were left standing, and made a most formidable show. The +paths, hacked trees, and old stumps of firebrands, showed that they had +been deserted in the fall. The fear of this tribe now appeared to have +left the minds of our guides. These encampments were all very large, and +could probably each have accommodated several hundred persons.</p> + +<p>The form of the Osage lodge may be compared to a hemisphere, or an +inverted bird's-nest, with a small aperture left in the top for the +escape of smoke, and an elongated opening at the side, by way of door, +to pass and repass. It is constructed by cutting a number of flexible +green poles, sharpened at one end, and stuck firmly in the ground. The +corresponding tops are then bent over and tied, and the framework +covered with linden bark. These wigwams are arranged in circles, one +line of lodges within another. In the centre is a scaffolding for meat. +The chief's tent is conspicuously situated at the head of each +encampment. It is different from the rest, resembling an inverted half +cylinder. The whole is arranged with much order and neatness, and +evinces that they move in large parties, that the chiefs exercise a good +deal of authority.</p> + +<p>The Osages are a tribe who have from early times been prominent in the +south-west, between the Arkansas and Missouri. The term Osage is of +French origin; it seems to be a translation of the Algonquin term +Assengigun, or Bone Indians. Why? They call themselves Was-ba-shaw, and +have a curious allegory of their having originated from a beaver and a +snail. They are divided into two bands, the Little and Great Osages, the +latter of whom make their permanent encampments on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>river Osage of +the Missouri. The Ozarks appear from early days to have been their +hunting-grounds for the valuable furred animals, and its deep glens and +gorges have served as nurseries for the bear. They are one of the great +prairie stock of tribes, who call God Wacondah. They are physically a +fine tribe of men, of good stature and courage, but have had the +reputation, among white and red men, of being thieves and plunderers. +Certainly, among the hunter population of this quarter, they are +regarded as little short of ogres and giants; and they tell most +extravagant tales of their doings. Luckily, it was so late in the season +that we were not likely to encounter many of them.</p> + +<p>In searching the precincts of the old camps, my guides pointed out a +place where the Indians had formerly pinioned down Teen Friend, one of +the most successful of the white trappers in this quarter, whom they had +found trapping their beaver in the Swan creek valley. I thought it was +an evidence of some restraining fear of our authorities at St. Louis, +that they had not taken the enterprising old fellow's scalp, as well as +his beaver packs.</p> + +<p>Life in the wilderness is dependent on contingencies, which are equally +hard to be foreseen or controlled. We are, at all events, clearly out of +the jurisdiction of a justice of the peace. And the maxim that we have +carefully conned over in childhood, "No man may put off the law of God," +is but a feeble reliance when urged against the Osages or Pawnees.</p> + +<p>Deeming themselves now high enough up the Swan creek valley, my guides +determined to leave it, and turned their horses' heads up a gorge that +led to the open plains. We now steered our course north-west, over an +elevated plain, or prairie, covered, as usual, with ripe grass. We +followed across this tract for about twenty miles, with no general +deviation of our course, but without finding water. In search of this, +we pushed on vigorously till night set in, when it became intensely +dark, and we were in danger of being precipitated, at every step, into +some hole, or down some precipice. Darkness, in a prairie, places the +traveller in the position of a ship at sea, without a compass; to go on, +or to stop, seems equally perilous. For <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>some two hours we groped our +way in this manner, when one of the guides shouted that he had found a +standing pool. Meantime, it had become excessively dark. The atmosphere +was clouded over, and threatened rain. On reaching the pool, there was +no wood to be found, and we were compelled to encamp without a fire, and +laid down supperless, tired, and cold.</p> + +<p>My guides were hardy, rough fellows, and did not mind these omissions of +meals for a day together, and had often, as now, slept without +camp-fires at night. As the object seemed to be a trial of endurance, I +resolved not to compromit myself by appearing a whit less hardy than +they did, and uttered not a word that might even shadow forth complaint. +This was, however, a cold and cheerless spot at best, with the wide +prairie for a pillow, and black clouds, dropping rain, for a covering.</p> + +<p>The next morning, as soon as it was at all light, we followed down the +dry gorge in which we had lain, to Findley's Fork—a rich and +well-timbered valley, which we descended about five miles. As we rode +along through an open forest, soon after entering this valley, we +observed the traces of the work of the beaver, and stopped to view a +stately tree, of the walnut species, which had been partially gnawed off +by these animals. This tree was probably eighteen or twenty inches in +diameter, and fifty feet high. The animals had gnawed a ring around it, +but abandoned their work. It had afterwards been undermined by the +freshets of the stream, and had fallen. Was it too hard a work? If so, +it would seem that some instinct akin to reason came to their aid, in +leading them to give up their essay.</p> + +<p>There was now every appearance of a change of weather. It was cold, and +a wintry breeze chilled our limbs. I thought my blood was as warm as +that of my guides, however, and rode on cheerfully. At length, Holt and +Fisher, of their own motion, stopped to kindle a fire, and take +breakfast. We had still plenty of fresh venison, which we roasted, as +each liked, on spits. Thus warmed and refreshed, we continued down the +valley, evidently in a better philosophical mood; for a man always +reasons better, and looks more beneficently about him, this side of +starvation.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>I observed a small stream of pure water coming in on the north, side, +which issued through an opening in the hills; and as this ran in the +general direction we were pursuing, the guides led up it. We were soon +enclosed in a lateral valley, with high corresponding hills, as if, in +remote ages, they had been united. Very soon it became evident that this +defile was closed across and in front of us. As we came near this +barrier, it was found that it blocked up the whole valley, with the +exception of the mouth of a gigantic cave. The great width and height of +this cave, and its precipitous face, gave it very much the appearance of +some ruinous arch, out of proportion. It stretched from hill to hill. +The limpid brook we had been following, ran from its mouth. On entering +it, the first feeling was that of being in "a large place." There was no +measure for the eye to compute height or width. We seemed suddenly to be +beholding some secret of the great works of nature, which had been hid +from the foundation of the world. The impulse, on these occasions, is to +shout. I called it Winoca.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> On advancing, we beheld an immense natural +vase, filled with pure water. This vase was formed from concretions of +carbonate of lime, of the nature of stalagmite, or, rather, stalactite. +It was greyish-white and translucent, filling the entire breadth of the +cave. But, what was still more imposing, another vase, of similar +construction, was formed on the next ascending plateau of the floor of +the cave. The water flowed over the lips of this vase into the one +below. The calcareous deposit seems to have commenced at the surface of +the water, which, continually flowing over the rims of each vase, +increases the deposit.</p> + +<p>The height of the lower vase is about five feet, which is inferable by +our standing by it, and looking over the rim into the limpid basin. The +rim is about two and a half inches thick. Etruscan artists could not +have formed a more singular set of capacious vases.</p> + +<p>The stream of water that supplies these curious tanks, rushes with +velocity from the upper part of the cavern. The bottom <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>of the cave is +strewed with small and round calcareous concretions, about the size of +ounce balls, of the same nature with the vases. They are in the +condition of stalagmites. These concretions are opaque, and appear to +have been formed from the impregnated waters percolating from the roof +of the cavern. There are evidences of nitric salts in small crevices. +Geologically, the cavern is in the horizontal limestone, which is +evidently metalliferous. It is the same calcareous formation which +characterizes the whole Ozark range. Ores of lead (the sulphurets) were +found in the stratum in the bed of a stream, at no great distance north +of this cave; and its exploration for its mineral wealth is believed to +be an object of practical importance.</p> + +<p>I had now followed the geological formation of the country far +south-westwardly. The relative position of the calcareous, lead-bearing +stratum, had everywhere been the same, when not disturbed or displaced. +Wide areas on the sources of the Maramec, Gasconade, and Osage, and also +of the Currents, Spring river, and Eleven-points and Strawberry, were +found covered by heavy drift, which concealed the rock; but wherever +valleys had been cut through the formation by the stream, and the strata +laid bare, they disclosed the same horizontality of deposit, and the +same relative position of limestone and sandstone rock.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> From the Osage word for an underground spirit.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER X.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">DEPART FROM THE CAVE—CHARACTER OF THE HUNTERS WHO GUIDED THE +AUTHOR—INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE—A BEAUTIFUL AND FERTILE +COUNTRY, ABOUNDING IN GAME—REACH THE EXTREME NORTH-WESTERN +SOURCE OF WHITE RIVER—DISCOVERIES OF LEAD-ORE IN A PART OF +ITS BED—ENCAMP AND INVESTIGATE ITS MINERALOGY—CHARACTER, +VALUE, AND HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY—PROBABILITY OF ITS +HAVING BEEN TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO IN 1541.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>It was the last day of the year 1818, when we reached the cave of +Winoca, as described in the preceding chapter, on the Ozark summit. An +inspection of the country had shown the fact that the mineral +developments of its underlying rocks were of a valuable character, while +the surface assumed the most pleasing aspect, and the soil, wherever +examined, appeared to be of the very richest quality. The bold, rough +hunters, who accompanied me, thought of the country only as an +attractive game country, which it was a great pity, they said, that the +Indians alone should occupy; and they had very little curiosity about +anything that did not minister to their immediate wants. They had lived +for so long a time by the rifle, that they had a philosophy of the +rifle. It was the ready arbiter between themselves, and the animal +creation, and the Indians, and even other hunters. Neither the striking +agricultural or mineral resources of the country, arrested much +attention on their part. And as soon as I was ready to relinquish my +examinations at the cave and proceed, they were ready to resume their +horses and lead forward. Unfortunately, it was now severely cold, and +everything in the heavens prognosticated its increasing severity.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>On leaving the Valley of the Cave, and ascending the hills that +environed it, we passed over a gently sloping surface of hill and vale, +partly covered with forest trees, and partly in prairies. I have seldom +seen a more beautiful prospect. The various species of oaks and +hickories had strewed the woods with their fruits, on which the bear and +wild turkey revelled, while the red deer was scarcely ever out of sight. +Long before the hour of encampment had arrived, the hunters had secured +the means of our making a sumptuous evening meal on wild viands; and +when, at an early hour, we pitched our camp on the borders of a small +brook, Holt, who was ever ready with the rifle, added a fat brant from +this brook to our stores. We had not travelled more than twelve miles, +but we had a sharp wind to face, the day being severe; and nothing was +so agreeable, when we halted, as the fire, around which we enjoyed +ourselves, as we each displayed our skill in forest cookery. There was +cutting, and carving, and roasting, in the true prairie style. We then +prepared our couches and night-fires, and slept. At the earliest peep of +light, we were again in motion.</p> +<br /> + +<p>The 1st of January, 1819, opened with a degree of cold unusual in these +regions. Their elevation is, indeed, considerable; but the wind swept +with a cutting force across the open prairies. We were now on the +principal north-western source of White river, the channel of which we +forded in the distance of two miles. The western banks presented a naked +prairie, covered with dry grass and autumnal weeds, with here and there +a tree. We pushed on towards the north-east. The prairie-hen, +notwithstanding the cold, rose up in flocks before us, as we intruded +upon their low-couched positions in the grass. Of these, Holt, whose +hunting propensities no cold could restrain, obtained a specimen; he +also fired at and killed a wild goose from the channel of the river. On +passing about four miles up the western banks of the stream, we observed +a lead of lead-ore, glittering through the water in the bed of the +river, and determined to encamp at this spot, for the purpose of +investigating the mineral appearances. The weather was piercingly cold. +We found some old Indian camps near at hand, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>and procured from them +pieces of bark to sheath a few poles and stakes, hastily put up, to form +a shelter from the wind. A fire was soon kindled, and, while we cooked +and partook of a forest breakfast, we recounted the incidents of the +morning, not omitting the untoward state of the weather. When the labor +of building the shanty was completed, I hastened to explore the +geological indications of the vicinity.</p> + +<p>The ore which had attracted our notice in the bed of the stream, existed +in lumps, which presented bright surfaces where the force of the current +had impelled its loose stony materials over them. It was a pure +sulphuret of lead, breaking in cubical lines. I also observed some +pieces of hornblende. It was not easy to determine the original width of +the bed of ore. Its course is across the stream, into the banks of red +marly clay on which we had encamped. Its geological position is in every +respect similar to the metalliferous deposits at Potosi, except that +there were no spars, calcareous or barytic, in sight. I gathered, in a +few minutes, a sufficient number of specimens of the ore for +examination, and employed myself in erecting, on the banks of the river, +a small furnace, of the kind called "log-furnace" in Missouri, to test +its fusibility. In the mean time, my New England companion took a survey +of the surrounding country, which he pronounced one of the most fertile, +and admirably adapted to every purpose of agriculture. Much of the land +consists of prairie, into which the plough can be immediately put. The +forests and groves, which are interspersed with a park-like beauty +through these prairies, consist of various species of oaks, maple, white +and black walnut, elm, mulberry, hackberry, and sycamore.</p> + +<p>Holt and Fisher scanned the country for game, and returned to camp with +six turkeys and a wolf. Their fear of the Osages had been only +apparently subdued. They had been constantly on the look-out for signs +of Indian enemies, and had their minds always filled with notions of +hovering Osages and Pawnees. The day was wintry, and the weather +variable. It commenced snowing at daylight, and continued till about +eight o'clock, A. M. It then became clear, and remained so, with +occasional flickerings, until two o'clock, when a fixed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>snowstorm sat +in, and drove me from my little unfinished furnace, bringing in the +hunters also from the prairies, and confining us strictly to our camp. +This storm continued, without mitigation, nearly all night.</p> +<br /> + +<p>Jan. 3d. The snow ceased before sunrise, leaving the country wrapped in +a white mantle. The morning was cold; the river began to freeze about +nine o'clock, and continued till it was closed. The weather afforded an +opportunity for continuing the explorations and examinations commenced +yesterday. I found that the red clay afforded a good material for laying +the stones of my lead-furnace, and continued working at it for a part of +the day. The hunters came in with the carcases of two deer, and the skin +of a black wolf. Except in its color, I could not distinguish any +permanent characteristics in the latter differing from the large grey +wolf, or coyote. Its claws, snout, and ears, were the same—its tail, +perhaps, a little more bushy. The size of this animal, judging from the +skin, must have been double that of the little prairie-wolf, or +<i>myeengun</i> of the Indians of the North.</p> + +<p>I found the bed of the stream, where it permitted examination, to be +non-crystalline limestone, in horizontal beds, corresponding to the +formation observed in the cave of Winoca. Its mineral constituents were +much the same. The country is one that must be valuable hereafter for +its fertility and resources. The prairies which extend west of the river +are the most extensive, rich, and beautiful, of any which I have yet +seen west of the Mississippi. They are covered with a most vigorous +growth of grass. The deer and elk abound in this quarter, and the +buffalo is yet occasionally seen. The soil in the river valley is a rich +black alluvion. The trees are often of an immense height, denoting +strength of soil. It will probably be found adapted to corn, flax, hemp, +wheat, oats, and potatoes; while its mining resources must come in as +one of the elements of its future prosperity.</p> + +<p>I planted some peach-stones in a fertile spot near our camp, where the +growth of the sumac denoted unusual fertility. And it is worthy of +remark that even Holt, who had the antipathy <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>of an Indian to +agriculture, actually cut some bushes in a certain spot, near a spring, +and piled them into a heap, by way of securing a pre-emption right to +the soil.</p> + +<p>The region of the Ozark range of mountain development is one of singular +features, and no small attractions. It exhibits a vast and elevated +tract of horizontal and sedimentary strata, extending for hundreds of +miles north and south. This range is broken up into high cliffs, often +wonderful to behold, which form the enclosing walls of river valleys. +The Arkansas itself forces its way through, about the centre of the +range. The Washita marks its southern boundary. The St. Francis and the +Maramec, at the mouth of the former of which De Soto landed, constitute +its northern limits. The junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi +may be said to be its extreme northern development. The Missouri, from +the influx of the Osage, is pushed northward by the Ozark range. It +rests, on the south, upon the primitive granites, slates, and quartz +rock, of Washita. The celebrated Hot Springs issue from it. The +long-noted mines of Missouri, which once set opinion in France in a +blaze, extend from its north-eastern flanks. The primitive sienites and +hornblende rock of the sources of the St. Francis and Grand rivers, +support it. The Unica or White river, the Strawberry, Spring river, +Currents and Black rivers, descend from it, and join the Mississippi. +The Great and Little Osage, and the Gasconade, flow into the Missouri. +The great plains, and sand-desert, which stretches at the eastern foot +of the Rocky mountains, lie west of it. It is not less than two hundred +miles in breadth. No part of the central regions of the Mississippi +valley exhibits such a variety in its geological constituents, or such a +striking mineralogical development. Its bodies of the ore of iron called +iron-glance, are unparalleled. These are particularly developed in the +locality called Iron Mountain, or the sources of the St. Francis. Its +ores of lead, zinc, antimony, and manganese, are remarkable. Its +limestones abound in caves yielding nitre. Salt and gypsum are found in +the plains on its western borders. Its large blocks of quartz rock, +which are found north of the Arkansas river, particularly scattered over +the formations crossing the Little <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>Red, Buffalo, and White rivers, +about the Buffalo shoals, furnish indications of the diluvial gold +deposit, which would justify future examination.</p> + +<p>Through these alpine ranges De Soto roved, with his chivalrous and +untiring army, making an outward and inward expedition into regions +which must have presented unwonted hardships and discouragements to the +march of troops. To add to these natural obstacles, he found himself +opposed by fierce savage tribes, who rushed upon him from every glen and +defile, and met him in the open grounds with the most savage energy. His +own health finally sank under these fatigues; and it is certain that, +after his death, his successor in the command, Moscoso, once more +marched entirely through the southern Ozarks, and reached the buffalo +plains beyond them. Such energy and feats of daring had never before +been displayed in North America; and the wonder is at its highest, after +beholding the wild and rough mountains, cliffs, glens, and torrents, +over which the actual marches must have laid.</p> + +<p>Some of the names of the Indian tribes encountered by him, furnish +conclusive evidence that the principal tribes of the country, although +they have changed their particular locations since the year 1542, still +occupy the region. Thus, the Kapahas, who then lived on the Mississippi, +above the St. Francis, are identical with the Quappas, the Cayas with +the Kanzas, and the Quipana with the Pawnees.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER XI.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">SEVERE WINTER WEATHER ON THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARKS—FALSE +ALARM OF INDIANS—DANGER OF MY FURNACE, ETC., BEING +HEREAFTER TAKEN FOR ANTIQUITIES—PROCEED SOUTH—ANIMAL +TRACKS IN THE SNOW—WINOCA OR SPIRIT VALLEY—HONEY AND THE +HONEY-BEE—BUFFALO-BULL CREEK—ROBE OF SNOW—MEHAUSCA +VALLEY—SUPERSTITIOUS EXPERIMENT OF THE HUNTERS—ARRIVE AT +BEAVER CREEK.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>The indications of severe weather, noticed during the last day of +December, and the beginning of January, were not deceptive; every day +served to realize them. We had no thermometer; but our feelings denoted +an intense degree of cold. The winds were fierce and sharp, and snow +fell during a part of each day and night that we remained on these +elevations. We wrapped our garments closely about us at night, in front +of large fires, and ran alternately the risk of being frozen and burnt. +One night my overcoat was in a blaze from lying too near the fire. This +severity served to increase the labor of our examinations; but it did +not, that I am aware, prevent anything essential.</p> + +<p>On the fourth day of my sojourn here, a snowstorm began, a little before +one o'clock in the morning; it ceased, or, as the local phrase is, "held +up," at daybreak. The ground was now covered, to a depth of from two to +three inches, with a white mantle. Such severity had never been known by +the hunters. The winds whistled over the bleak prairies with a rigor +which would have been remarkable in high northern latitudes. The river +froze entirely over. The sun, however, shone out clearly as the day +advanced, and enabled me to complete my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>examinations, as fully as it +was practicable to do, under the existing state of the weather.</p> + +<p>It happened, on this day, that my companion had walked a mile or two +west, over the smooth prairie, to get a better view of the conformation +of the land, returning to camp before the hunters, who had also gone in +the same general direction. On their coming back, one of them, whose +head was always full of hostile Osages, fell on his returning track in +the snow, and carefully traced it to our camp. He came in breathless, +and declared that the Osages were upon us, and that not a moment was to +be lost in breaking up our camp, and flying to a place of security. When +informed of the origin of the tracks, he still seemed incredulous, and +could not be pacified without some difficulty. We then prepared, by +collecting fuel, and increasing our bark defences against the wind and +snow, to pass another night at the camp.</p> + +<p>I had now followed the Ozarks as far as it seemed practicable, and +reached their western summit, notwithstanding every discouragement +thrown in my way by the reports of the hunters, from the first moment of +my striking the White river; having visited the source of nearly every +river which flows from it, both into the Missouri and the Mississippi. I +had fully satisfied myself of its physical character and resources, and +now determined to return to the camps of my guides at Beaver creek, and +continue the exploration south.</p> + +<p>It was the 5th of January, 1819, when we prepared our last meal at that +camp, and I carefully put up my packages in such portable shape as might +be necessary. Some time was spent in looking up the horses, which had +been turned into a neighboring canebrake. The interval was employed in +cutting our names, with the date of our visit, on a contiguous oak, +which had been previously blazed for the purpose. These evidences of our +visit were left, with the pit dug in search of ore, and the small +smelting-furnace, which, it is hoped, no zealous antiquarian will +hereafter mistake for monuments of an elder period of civilization in +the Mississippi valley. When this was accomplished, and the horses +brought up, we set out with alacrity. The snow still formed a thin +covering on the ground, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>and, being a little softened by the sun, the +whole surface of the country exhibited a singular map of the tracks of +quadrupeds and birds. In these, deer, elk, bears, wolves, and turkeys, +were prominent—the first and last species, conspicuously so. In some +places, the dry spots on the leaves showed where the deer had lain +during the storm. These resting-spots were uniformly on declivities, +which sheltered the animal from the force of the wind. Frequently we +crossed wolf-trails in the snow, and, in one or two instances, observed +places where they had played or fought with each other, like a pack of +dogs—the snow being tramped down in a circle of great extent. We also +passed tracts of many acres, where the turkeys had scratched up the +snow, in search of acorns. We frequently saw the deer fly before us, in +droves of twenty or thirty. They will bound twenty feet at a leap, as +measured, on a gentle declivity. This animal is impelled by a fatal +curiosity to stop and turn round to look at the cause of its +disturbance, after running a distance. It is at this moment that the +hunter generally fires.</p> + +<p>About noon, we reached and crossed Findley's Fork, or the Winoca +valley—the locality of the cave. Two miles south of it, in ascending an +elevation, our ears were saluted by a murmuring sound in the air, which +the hunters declared to be single bees, flying in a line. I observed one +of them directing its flight to the top of a large oak, which was thus +indicated as the repository of their honey. My companion and myself +proceeded to chop it down, while the hunters stood by. It was of the +white-oak species, and was judged to be two feet and a half across. When +it fell, a hollow limb was fractured, disclosing a large deposit of most +beautiful white honeycombs. We ate without stint, sometimes dipping +cooked pieces of venison (we had no bread) in the fluid part. The +remainder was then wrapped up in a freshly flayed deerskin, and firmly +tied, to be carried to the hunters' cabins at Beaver creek on one of the +horses.</p> + +<p>We now resumed our route. As evening approached, we entered the head of +a valley formed out of the plain, toward our right. It turned out to be +a stream known to them, in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>their buffalo hunts, as Bull creek. Here we +encamped, having travelled about twenty miles. The weather continued +moderately cold during the day, the sun not having attained sufficient +power to melt the snow. A single deer was the trophy of this day's hunt.</p> + +<p>Morning found us, as we arose from our couches, in a small, brushy, and +tangled valley, through which it was not easy to make our way. The +weather was raw, cold, and lowering, and the hunters did not seem +inclined to make an early start. It was determined to replenish our +fire, and breakfast, first. It was a rough region, and cost some +exertion and fatigue to get out of its tangled defiles, and ascend the +plains south of it. These impediments consumed so much time, that we +made but slow progress. The atmosphere was so obscure, that it was +difficult to determine the proper course; and it was evident that the +guides did not know exactly where they were. At length they entered one +of the lateral valleys of Swan creek, the Mehausca of the Osages. In +this, after following it down some distance, we encamped. The atmosphere +was clouded up, and betokened falling weather.</p> + +<p>The next morning, (Jan. 7th), when I awoke, I felt an extra pressure of +something on my blanket, which had the effect to keep off the wind, and +produce warmth; and on opening its folds, I threw off a stratum of an +inch or two of snow. We had been fatigued by the day's march, and slept +soundly.</p> + +<p>Some eight miles' travel brought us to the junction of this little +tributary with the Mehausca, where our guides, by recognizing known +objects, reassured themselves of their true position. It was, however, +still hazy and obscure, and doubts soon again arose in their minds as to +the proper course. After travelling some miles in this perplexity, they +were at length relieved by observing a known landmark in the peak of +Bald hill. This mark was, however, soon lost sight of, and, the +atmosphere still continuing overclouded, dark, and hazy, they speedily +became again bewildered. I was surprised at this; it denoted a want of +precision of observation, which an Indian certainly could not have been +charged with. He is able, in the worst weather, to distinguish the +<i>north</i> from the <i>south</i> face <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>of a mature and weathered tree—a species +of knowledge, of the utmost consequence to him in his forest wanderings.</p> + +<p>An experiment, of letting a certain horse take his course homeward, by +throwing the reins upon his neck, was adopted by our guides; but after +trying it for some time, it was found necessary to give it up. It was +clear that the animal was going directly from home; and Fisher, who +believed in bewitched guns, was obliged to yield the point. Not long +after resuming the reins, Holt announced, in the dense atmosphere which +enveloped us, that we were ascending the valley hills that border the +main channel of White river. As soon as this was verified, and we had +reached the highest point, the guides both fired their rifles, to +advertise their families, on the bottom-lands below, of their approach; +and we were soon welcomed, at the hunters' cabins at the mouth of Beaver +creek, "by dogs, women, and children, all greasy and glad."</p> + +<p>During this trip, I had listened to frequent recitals of the details of +hunting the bear, beaver, deer, and other animals, the quality of dogs, +the secret of baits, &c.—a species of forest lectures, the details of +which, at the moment, were new to me, and had the charm of novelty, and +the merit of information; but which it is unimportant, at this length of +time, to repeat.<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a></p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Vide Journal of a Tour into the Interior of Missouri and +Arkansas. London, 1821.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER XII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">DESCEND WHITE RIVER IN A CANOE—ITS PURE WATER, CHARACTER, +AND SCENERY—PLACES OF STOPPING—BEAR CREEK—SUGAR-LOAF +PRAIRIE—BIG CREEK—A RIVER PEDLAR—POT SHOALS—MOUTH OF +LITTLE NORTH FORK—DESCEND FORMIDABLE RAPIDS, CALLED THE +BULL SHOALS—STRANDED ON ROCKS—A PATRIARCH +PIONEER—MINERALOGY—ANTIQUE POTTERY AND BONES—SOME TRACE +OF DE SOTO—A TRIP BY LAND—REACH THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT +NORTH FORK.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I determined to descend the river from the hunters' cabins at Beaver +creek, being the highest location to which a pioneer hunting population +had pushed, and with this view purchased a large and new canoe, of about +twenty feet in length, from the enterprising hunters. Putting into this +such articles from our former packs as were deemed necessary, and some +provisions, I took the bow, with a long and smooth pole to guide it in +rapids and shoals, and gave the stern to my companion, with a +steering-paddle. It was now the 9th of January. Bidding adieu to our +rough, but kind and friendly guides, we pushed into the stream, and +found ourselves floating, with little exertion, at the rate of from +three to four miles per hour. The very change from traversing weary +plains and prairies, and ascending steep cliffs, was exhilarating and +delightful.</p> + +<p>White river is one of the most beautiful and enchanting streams, and by +far the most transparent, which discharge their waters into the +Mississippi. To a width and depth which entitle it to be classed as a +river of the third magnitude in Western America, it unites a current +which possesses the purity of crystal, with a smooth and gentle flow, +and the most imposing, diversified, and delightful scenery. Objects can +be clearly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>seen in it, through the water, at the greatest depths. Every +pebble, rock, fish, or shell, even the minutest body which occupies the +bottom of the stream, is seen with the most perfect distinctness; and +the canoe, when looking under it, seemed, from the remarkable +transparency of the water, to be suspended in air. The Indians, +observing this peculiarity, called it Unica, which is the transitive +form of <i>white</i>. The French of Louisiana merely translated this term to +<i>la riviere au Blanc</i>. It is, in fact, composed of tributaries which +gush up in large crystal springs out of the Ozark range of mountains, +and it does not receive a discoloured tributary in all its upper course. +These gigantic springs, which are themselves a curiosity, originate in +the calcareous or sandstone strata of that remarkable chain, and are +overlaid by a heavy oceanic deposit of limestone, quartz, hornstone, and +chert pebbles, which serve as a filtering-bed to the upspringing waters. +Sometimes these pebbles are found to be jasper, of a beautiful quality.</p> + +<p>The scenery of its shores is also peculiar. Most frequently the +limestone, which has been subjected to the destructive power of the +elements, is worn into pinnacles of curious spiral shapes. Where the +river washes the base of these formations, a high and precipitous wall +of rock casts its shadow over the water. On the shores opposite to such +precipices, there is invariably a rich diluvial plain, covered by a +vigorous forest of trees, clothed in all the graceful luxuriance of a +summer foliage.</p> + +<p>If the shores be examined to any distance inland, the calcareous rock is +found to exhibit frequent caverns, where the percolation of the waters +has produced stalactites of beautiful forms, or the concretions are +spread upon the floors of these caves in curious masses.</p> + +<p>Often, upon the shores, we observed the graceful doe. At early hours in +the morning, the wild turkeys appeared in large flocks, with their +plumage glistening in the light. The duck, goose, and brant, often rose +up before us, and lighted in the stream again below us; and we thus +drove them, without intending it, for miles. Sometimes, perched on some +high pinnacle or towering tree, the eagle, hawk, or heron, surveyed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>our +descent, as if it were an intrusion upon their long undisturbed domain.</p> + +<p>A few miles below our point of embarkation, we passed, on the left +shore, a precipitous wall of calcareous rock, on the summit of which I +observed the location of the cavern, into the mouth of which I descended +some twenty or thirty feet, on my outward journey; and it now seemed +probable that the ramifications which I saw by the dim light admitted, +were of an extensive character.</p> + +<p>As the shades of night overtook us, a hunter's cabin was descried on the +left shore, where a landing was made. It proved to be occupied by a +person of the name of Yochem, who readily gave us permission to remain +for the night. He told us we had descended thirty miles. He regaled us +hospitably with wild viands, and, among other meats, the beaver's +tail—a dish for epicures.</p> + +<p>Resuming the descent at an early hour, a couple of miles brought us to +the inlet of Bear creek—a stream coming in on the right side, which is +described as long, narrow, and crooked. Nothing denoted that man had +ever made his residence along this part of the stream. We floated on +charmingly. At every turn, some novel combination of scenery presented +itself. As evening drew near, a hunter's cabin appeared on our right, +and, a couple of miles further, another on our left, near one of those +natural monuments of denudation common to the limestone of this river, +which is called the Sugar-loaf. We stopped for the night at this +habitation, and found it to be occupied by a Mr. Coker. The old man +received us with the usual frank and friendly air and manner of a +hunter. More than fifty years must have marked his frontier pilgrimage +on its constantly shifting boundary. He stood some six feet three in +height, was erect and thin, and looked like one of the patriarchs of the +woods, who, cherishing his personal independence and his rifle, had ever +relied upon his own arm for a support, and distrusted nothing on earth +half so much as Indians. In his view, the Osages were the perfection of +robbers; and he congratulated us on getting out of their country with +our scalps safely on our heads, and our "plunder" (a common word here +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span>for baggage) untouched. It appeared from his estimates that we had +descended the river twenty-five miles.</p> + +<p>Rain fell copiously during the night; but it ceased before daylight +(11th), by the earliest gleams of which we were again in motion, +descending the pellucid river. At the computed distance of sixteen +miles, we passed the mouth of Big river, a considerable stream on the +left banks, where I halted a few moments to see a new location which had +just been commenced. A small clearing had been made in the dense +canebrake, and a log house commenced. Shortly below this spot, we +encountered a river pedlar, ascending the stream with his commodities in +a canoe. On conversing with him, I found his knowledge of affairs very +local and partial. Of the outer world, and of its news, he knew nothing.</p> + +<p>At every stage of our progress, the river was increasing in its volume; +and, soon after this occurrence, we observed its velocity accelerated, +and almost imperceptibly found ourselves gliding rapidly over the Pot +Shoals. This rapid appeared less formidable than had been anticipated. I +rose up to observe the draught of the current, and, by a few strokes of +the pole, kept the canoe in the force of the stream. About seven miles +below these shoals, and just as evening closed in, a house appeared on +the left shore. It proved to be M'Garey's, at whose domicile we had +originally struck on crossing the wilderness from Potosi. He was glad to +hail our return from a region, against the Indian occupants of which, he +had decidedly warned us on our outward trip, but from whom we had +fortunately received no injury. He informed us that we had this day +descended the river forty miles, that being the received distance to +Sugar-loaf Prairie.</p> + +<p>We were indeed cordially received as old acquaintances, and +congratulated on our perseverance in visiting a region where Indian +hostility was so much to be dreaded. On learning that the Osages had +retired west, and that the country abounded in game, one of the sons of +our host prepared to push into that region. M'Garey told us that he had +delivered "Butcher," agreeably to our order, to Holt; but the latter, on +travelling a day's journey toward Beaver creek, had found him too feeble +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>to proceed, and, after taking off his shoes, had abandoned him to the +wolves. Sad emblem of the fate of persons who have served great men, +till they have reached some pinnacle where the service is forgotten, +because no longer necessary!</p> + +<p>Nearly opposite, but a little below this cabin, we passed, on the 12th, +the mouth of the Little North Fork; a stream originating in a broken +region on the left bank, and having some alluvions at its mouth. +Evidences of habitation became more frequent below the Little North +Fork, which caused me to cease noting their succession in my journal.</p> + +<p>Nothing of special interest occurred to mark the day's progress, till we +reached, at an advanced hour in the afternoon, the Bull shoals. At this +formidable rapid, the river probably sinks its level fifteen or twenty +feet in the space of half a mile. Masses of limestone rock stand up in +the bed of the river, and create several channels. Between these the +river foams and roars. When I arose in the canoe to take a view of the +rapid into which we were about to plunge, the bed of the stream appeared +to be a perfect sheet of foam, whirling and rushing with great force and +tumult. As I knew not the proper channel, and it was too late to +withdraw, the only step left was to keep the canoe headed, and down we +went most rapidly. Very soon the canoe leaped on a round rock, driving +on it with great force, and veered about crosswise. In an instant I +jumped into the water at the bows, while my companion did the same at +the stern, and, by main force, we lifted it over the ledge, got in +quickly, and again headed it properly. We were, emphatically, in the +midst of roaring rapids; their very noise was deafening. The canoe had +probably got down six hundred yards, when a similar difficulty occurred, +at the head of a second shute or bench of rocks, reaching across the +river. In an instant, it again struck. It was obviated by getting into +the water, in the same way as on the first occasion; only, however, to +put our strength and skill to the test a third time, after which we shot +down to the foot of the rapids safely. We had managed neither to ship +water, nor to lose a piece of baggage. We were, however, thoroughly +wetted, but kept our position in the canoe for five miles below the +rapid, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>bringing us to the head of Friend's settlement. We landed, at a +rather early hour in the evening, at a log building on the left shore, +where we were hospitably received by Teen Friend, a man of mature age +and stately air, the patriarch of the settlement. It was of him that we +had heard stories of Osage captivity and cruelty, having visited one of +the very valleys where he was kept in "durance vile."</p> + +<p>The antiquities and mineral appearances in that vicinity were +represented as worthy of examination; in consequence of which, I devoted +a part of the next day (13th) to these objects. The neighboring hills +consist of stratified limestone. The surface of the soil exhibits some +fragments of hornstone and radiated quartz, with indications of +iron-ore. At the shoals, traces of galena and calcareous spar occur.</p> + +<p>Mr. Friend, being familiar from personal observation with the geography +and resources of the country at large, states that rock-salt is found +between the south fork of White river and the Arkansas, where the +Pawnees and Osages make use of it. It is presumed that this salt +consists of crystalline masses from the evaporation of saline water. He +represents the lead-ores on its north-western source, which we had +partially explored, as very extensive.</p> + +<p>If, as is probable, De Soto ranged over these regions in his extensive +marches between the St. Francis and Arkansas, his exploratory parties +may have reached the locality of crystalline salt referred to, and he +would have found the buffalo in several positions east of that place.</p> + +<p>The antiquarian objects to which my attention was called, afforded the +greatest degree of interest. They consisted of pieces of earthenware, +some antique fragments of bone, and a metallic alloy, resting in a +substance resembling ashes, and also arrow-heads. The metallic alloy, of +which Mr. F. gave me a specimen, resembles a combination of lead and +tin. But what adds to the interest attending the discovery of these +articles, is the fact, that they lie, apparently, below the diluvial +deposits, bearing a heavy forest, and at the geological line of +intersection with the consolidated rocks.</p> + +<p>From the apparent vestiges in this quarter, I am of opinion <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>that De +Soto's "Tanico" must be located in this vicinity, and that he crossed +the White river near this place. A march west of this point, over a +hilly country, would bring him into the fertile valley of the Little Red +river, or Buffalo creek—his probable Tula, where his people first +tasted the flesh of this animal, and where he recruited his army for a +new effort.</p> + +<p>These inquiries occupied the morning. It was late before we embarked, +and, at some four miles below, we landed on the right shore, at a Mr. +Zadock Lee's, being the first New Englander whom we had met in this +region. With him we took dinner. He appeared pleased to see us, and +conducted me to see some antique, white, lime-like masses, in the earth, +near the bank of the river, which had the appearance of decayed bones. +Rumor speaks of some other antiquities in this quarter of the country, +in the shape of bricks, concealed by the undisturbed soil; but I saw +nothing of this kind. While here, Mr. Lee's son returned from the forest +with the flesh of the bear and buffalo, the fruits of his own prowess in +the chase, and amused us with an account of his recent exhibition of +skill in these departments. We embarked and descended the river six +miles, to a Mr. Jacob Yochem's, who received us with hospitality, and +added no little, by his conversation, to our local lore.</p> + +<p>It was determined, the next morning, (14th,) to loan our canoe, which +was a capacious, new, and clean vessel, made from white-ash, to our +host, to enable him to transport his hunter products to a market at the +mouth of the Great North Fork, leaving our baggage to be brought that +way. The distance by water is thirty-five miles; by land, probably not +more than eighteen or twenty. By this step, we avoided the dangers of +navigating two formidable rapids, called the Crooked Creek and Buffalo +Shoals; the former situated fifteen, and the latter twenty miles below +Yochem's.</p> + +<p>We left our host's at a seasonable hour in the morning, taking a good +horse-path; and we walked diligently till near dusk, before reaching our +destination. We then had the whole volume of White river between us and +our purposed place of lodgment, which was at the residence of a man +named <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>Matney. It was the only house within a considerable distance at +which shelter for the night could be obtained; and we did not hesitate +long between the two alternatives presented to us—either of lying out +in the woods all night, or of fording the river, with the depth of which +we were not acquainted. We chose the latter, and accordingly prepared +for the attempt. At the shallowest part we could find, it was about four +feet deep in the channel; but we struggled through, and reached the +house just at nightfall, wet and chilly. We were hospitably received, +and speedily made ourselves comfortable. We had been told that the +distance was fifteen miles; but to us, who had diligently footed it, it +seemed more than twenty.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">DETENTION AT THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH FORK—NATURAL +HISTORY OF THE VICINITY—GREAT BLOCKS OF QUARTZ—IMPOSING +PRECIPICES OF THE CALICO ROCK—A CHARACTERISTIC OF AMERICAN +SCENERY—CHEROKEE OCCUPANCY OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN THE +WHITE AND ARKANSAS RIVERS—ITS EFFECTS ON THE +PIONEERS—QUESTION OF THE FATE OF THE INDIAN +RACES—IRON-ORE—DESCENT TO THE ARKANSAS FERRIES—LEAVE THE +RIVER AT THIS POINT—REMARKS ON ITS CHARACTER AND +PRODUCTIONS.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>The canoe had not yet arrived, nor was there any tidings of it the next +morning; so that there was no alternative, in our present situation, but +to wait patiently. I determined to improve the delay by exploring the +neighborhood. It is a geographical point of some importance, being the +head of the navigation of White river for all large craft ascending from +the Mississippi. As yet, nothing but keel-boats have ascended. Between +the point of our embarkation at Beaver creek and this spot, the river +has a fall of about sixty feet, at four rapids, which do not probably +extend over a mile or two in the aggregate. The stream, during the rest +of the way, has a fine, lively current, seldom of great velocity, and +never stagnates. The Great North Fork, the scene of our former +ramblings, enters a short distance below the foot of the Buffalo Shoals, +rendering the draught of water practicable, it is believed, for +steamboats at all seasons.</p> + +<p>I found the pebble-stones and boulders on the margin and bed of the +river, which I leisurely examined, to afford a true representation of +the formations which had been observed in traversing the elevated and +broken surface of the Ozarks. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>They consist of the various limestones +and sandstones of the region, with a partial mixture of quartz rock, red +sienite, hornstone, argillaceous rock, and the peculiar, egg-shaped, +coarse yellow jasper, which appears to have been imbedded in some of its +strata. On ascending the cliffs west of the valley, they were observed +to consist of the characteristic limestone of the region, in horizontal +layers, the upper strata containing impressions of shells. Very large +angular masses of quartz rock lie near the bases of these cliffs. Some +of the angles of these masses would probably measure fourteen feet. +Their position here appears to be quite anomalous, as, from the absence +of attrition, they are clearly not of the erratic block group. They +appear to indicate a primitive formation near.</p> + +<p>The half hunter, half farmer, to whom we had loaned our canoe, came with +a number of his companions in the evening, and entered on a scene of +merriment, to which, as the cabin had but one room, we were compelled to +be unwilling spectators during the livelong night, though, from its +character, not participating at all therein. As soon as there was light +sufficient to discern objects (16th), we embarked, rejoiced to get clear +of this extraordinary nocturnal scene. About half a mile below, we +passed the mouth of the Great North Fork, and, some five or six miles +further, entered and descended a swift channel, called the Crooked +rapids, where there probably has been some slight geological disturbance +in the bed of the river, observable in very low stages of water.</p> + +<p>At the distance of ten miles more, a sudden turn of the river brought us +in full sight of the picturesque, elevated, and precipitous shore, +called the Calico Rock. This presents a most imposing façade, on which +are observable the imitative forms of fantastic architectural devices. +The wall is quite precipitous throughout. It is the calcareous rock of +the region. Its summit is overlaid with ochreous clays of various +colors, which, through the action of the elements, have imparted their +fanciful hues to portions of the cliff. This abrupt species of scenery +is quite peculiar to the American landscape. A still more imposing +section of it is presented in the Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior. +Nothing of this kind marks the banks of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>the Rhine, so much eulogized by +travellers; for all its formations partake of the parabolic, or curved +lines of the primitive, and the eye is relieved by these gradations; +but, in the brusque scenes of the West, the precipices are as marked as +if they had been hewn down by some gigantic broad-axe. There are some +sections, in keeping with these harsh landscapes, on the Mississippi, +along the Missouri shores—less prominently along the Illinois borders, +near Alton—and at places in Iowa and Wisconsin; but more characteristic +in Minnesota, as the river escapes from its primitive plains, and +plunges over the falls of St. Anthony. We descended about thirty miles +this day, and found lodgment, at night, at a house on the left bank, +occupied by a Mr. Jeffery.</p> +<br /> + +<p>The next morning (17th), on descending five miles, we stopped at a Mr. +Williams's to prepare breakfast, where some persons were gathering to +hear an itinerant preacher. Twenty miles lower, we stopped for the +night, at a widow Lafferty's.</p> + +<p>From the remarks made at the places where we have been entertained by +the hunters and settlers on this river, there is considerable +dissatisfaction with a treaty<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> made with the Cherokee Indians, by +which a part of that nation are assigned a location between the north +banks of the Arkansas and the south bank of White river. Many of them, +including our hostess to-night, and the M'Gareys, Lees, and Matneys +above, have lands in cultivation, with dwelling-houses, stock, and +improvements, of more or less value, on the south banks of the river; +which, as they apprehend, under the operation of this treaty, they are +to relinquish to the Cherokees.</p> + +<p>The truth is, the first white occupants of the frontiers, though +generally rough men, and without a title to the lands they settle on, +are the pioneers of civilization; and by thus taking their lives in +their hands, and encountering the perils of the wilderness and of Indian +hostility, they lay the government under a strong obligation to protect +them. The natural hatred of races is such, that they are everlastingly +on ill terms <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>with the Indians, and the Indians with them. It is +difficult to say which of the two races, during this period of contact, +is most suspicious of the other.</p> + +<p>The Indians, also, look up to the government with strong claims for +justice and protection. The frontier, at the beginning of the sixteenth +century, was on and near the Atlantic borders, from Maine to Georgia, +and long continued east of the Alleghany mountains. It is already west +of the Mississippi river, that mighty geographical highway, which, like +a longitudinal line, stretches across seventeen degrees of latitude, +every mile of which will, ere long, be settled and cultivated by the +Anglo-American race. As the population presses first on the Indian's +hunting-grounds, and next on his cornfields, he flies before the +irresistible tide, and takes shelter at some more remote western point. +But he is hardly well seated on his new hunting-grounds—he has hardly +begun to reap his new cornfields—when the pioneers of the same race +that disturbed him before, are upon him; and again, and again he must +fly before the resistless—the uncontrollable tide of migration. It is a +providential reflux in the wave of races. It is something to be +observed, rather than to be apprehended and understood. It seems to say, +that the surface of the habitable earth was not formed for the permanent +occupancy of races who rely on the pleasing and exciting uses of the bow +and arrow; and that labor, which was, at the first, declared to be the +proper condition of man, is destined to sweep away, if it cannot merge +in its on-rush, these erratic and picturesque tribes. Where their +frontiers will be found, a hundred years hence, the voice of history, +looking to the past, may only tell; but this appears more appreciable +and clear—that the perpetuation of the race as one of the elements of +mankind, must depend, in the sequel, however long that sequel be +postponed, on his substantial adoption of the principles of industry, +letters, and Christianity. The "tents of Shem," however we may read the +prediction, are still to be occupied, if they are not now, by a broad +philanthropy, to be merged into those of the higher civilization of +Japhet. For, the civilization and the moral elevation of man is the +great object of revelation; and it appears clear, and conformable to +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>reason, that, where future history is taught in the Pentateuch by +figures, it should be figuratively, and not dogmatically, explained.</p> +<br /> + +<p>On leaving Mrs. Lafferty's, in the morning of the 18th, we descended +about five miles, and stopped to breakfast at a Mr. Jones's. Rumor had +pointed out this place as the locality of a tin-mine. The frontiersmen +are greatly disposed to excite each other's imaginations by reports of +mines and discoveries, every one of which is fancied to be some new +Potosi or El Dorado. Our host was not backward in bringing to me some +specimens of his supposed treasure. It consisted of several heavy lumps +of the ore called, by mineralogists, iron glance. It had the usual +color, great weight, and high metallic lustre. He represented it as +occurring, in large bodies, about eight or ten miles north of his house, +on high lands, at the surface.</p> + +<p>We had proceeded some miles on our way, when a large black bear was +discovered on the shore. It appeared to be about to plunge in for the +purpose of crossing the river, when our presence alarmed it, and the +animal, with its usual clumsy gait, betook himself to the woods again. +The clumsiness of this animal's motions seems to be owing to the +bluntness of its hind paws, which appear as if, we should suppose, it +arose from re-curved legs. The Indians laugh at the gait of bruin. We +had encountered this species several times before, and always, as on +this occasion, found it disposed to flee.</p> + +<p>Fifteen miles below Jones's cabin, we passed Harden's ferry, the house +being on the right bank; and, two miles further on, we passed Morrison's +ferry. Continuing our descent eight miles lower, we landed at a place +called Poke Bayou, where we were hospitably received by a Mr. Robert +Bean. The river had now become a magnificent body of water, still clear +and beautiful. We were here within the boundaries of the Mississippi +alluvions. No highlands are visible for some distance before reaching +Harden's. The river winds through broad, fertile plains, bearing a most +vigorous growth of forest trees. The banks are elevated some thirty feet +above the water, and, as the stream increases in depth and strength, +they become <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>subject to be undermined by the flood. The cane, which is +common to the river in its entire length, even to the highest elevations +of the Ozarks, is here of a tall and most vigorous growth. It is this +plant, I apprehend, more than any other feature, which gives an oriental +cast to these alluvial tracts; and I was almost ready, at some points, +where the growth concealed the trunks of the heavy forest, to see the +hippopotamus and elephant display their clumsy forms. For these, +however, we had the buffalo, the cougar, and the bear, whose crackling +strength, as they passed through these reedy mazes, had, on more than +one occasion during our rambles, reminded us of the great muscular power +of these boasted objects of hunter skill and enterprise. Often had a +fine dog, in the narrations of the hunters, paid the penalty of coming +within the stroke of the latter; and we could sympathise with the loss +of an animal, which is of the highest value in his pursuits. It is due +to this class of men to say, that, however rough they are in their +manners, we were uniformly received by them with a frank hospitality, +which appears to be always a point of honor with them; nor did any of +the number, to whom reward was proffered for entertainment, ever +condescend to receive a cent for anything in the shape of food or +lodging.</p> + +<p>The point of our landing was at the crossing of the lower Arkansas road. +About twelve or fourteen buildings of all sorts were clustered together, +forming a small village, which is now called Batesville; being the only +one which had been encountered since leaving Potosi.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> Treaty of 8th July, 1817. Vide Indian Treaties, p. 209.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">ANCIENT SPOT OF DE SOTO'S CROSSING WHITE RIVER IN +1542—LAMENESS PRODUCED BY A FORMER INJURY—INCIDENTS OF +THE JOURNEY TO THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER—DE SOTO'S ANCIENT +MARCHES AND ADVENTURES ON THIS RIVER IN THE SEARCH AFTER +GOLD—FOSSIL SALT—COPPER—THE ANCIENT RANGES OF THE +BUFFALO.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I determined to quit the river at this point, and, after a night's rest, +made the necessary arrangements.</p> + +<p>There is almost a moral certainty that De Soto must have crossed the +river above this place. The make of the land, and the custom of the +Indians in choosing the best ground for a path to travel from village to +village, would determine this. His position, after crossing the +Mississippi at the mouth of the St. Francis, and reaching the high +grounds of the latter, would lead the natives who were his guides to +keep the elevated and dry ranges leading to the buffalo country, west; +and he must have crossed the affluents of the Black and Currents rivers +at a high point towards the Ozarks. The dry and open woods afforded the +best ground for the march of his cavalry; and when he attempted to reach +the salt and buffalo country from the region east of White river, the +roughness of the country would lead him to the central points of that +stream. It would be interesting, as a point of antiquarian interest, to +know where the old Indian paths were located. The roads, in all parts of +the country, were based on these. They led to the most practicable fords +of rivers, they avoided swamps and boggy grounds, and evinced a thorough +geographical knowledge of the conformation of the country.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>To travel where De Soto had travelled, and where he had performed some +of his heroic feats, had something pleasing, at least, in the +association. Doubtless, had the first occupants of Upper Louisiana been +as mindful of historical reminiscences as they were set on repeating his +search for gold and silver mines, they might have been rewarded by +finding some of the straggling bones of his broken-down Andalusian +cavalry. The fragments of broken arms and trappings were yet, perhaps, +concealed by the accumulated rank vegetable soil of Arkansas and +Southern Missouri, whence the plough may at no distant day reveal them.</p> + +<p>It was ten o'clock on the morning of the 19th, when, having made every +necessary preparation, we left Mr. Bean's. I regretted the necessity of +making a selection from my collection of minerals and geological +specimens. We set out with great alacrity. For the first five miles, we +passed over a level, fertile tract, with several plantations; the +remaining thirteen miles were comparatively sterile and uneven, without +settlements. We had passed about seventeen miles of the distance, when +my right foot and ankle began to flinch. I was not sensible of any slip +or sprain in walking, but rather believe it resulted from too much +ardour and anxiety to get forward. I had, about four years previously, +dislocated and injured the same ankle in leaping down a precipice in the +Green mountains, having mistaken a granitical shelf of rock at its base, +which was covered with autumnal leaves, for soft soil. I believe the +suddenness and alacrity of this day's travel, after leaving the quietude +of the canoe, had awakened a sympathy in the injured nerves. In a short +time, the pain was unendurable. With great effort I walked a mile +further, and reached a double log house, the mistress of which bathed +the ankle with salt and water, and made other applications. Some +alleviation, but no permanent relief, was obtained. I then laid down +under the hope of being better, but awoke on the morning of the 20th +with little or no abatement of the pain, and inflammation. A traveller +on horseback, coming along that morning on a fine animal, agreed, for a +small compensation, to let me ride to the south fork of Strawberry +river, while he went afoot. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>This helped me over twelve miles of the +road, where his path diverged; and I felt so much relieved by it, on +dismounting, that I managed, by easy stages, to walk four miles farther, +which brought us to the main river. The afternoon was not yet spent; but +the pain of my ankle had returned before reaching the river, and I found +it in vain to press forward, without adequate repose.</p> +<br /> + +<p>The next morning (21st), my travelling companion, who cared nothing for +natural history or antiquities, and was urgent to push on, left me, and +returned to St. Louis. Left alone, I felt, for a few moments, a sense of +isolation; but I was now in a region where there was no longer any +danger to be apprehended for the want of the first necessaries of life. +My lameness required nothing, indeed, but perfect repose. The people +were kind, and, when I ascertained that my hostess was a sister of one +of the hunters who had guided me in the most remote parts of my +wanderings in the Ozarks, there was a manifest point of sympathy.</p> + +<p>I found by inquiry that there were appearances of a mineral deposit in +this vicinity, which seemed to connect the hilly grounds of Strawberry +river with similar indications which have been noticed near the Bull +shoals, on White river. Appearances denote the existence of sulphuret of +lead in the vicinity. The sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, and +white crystalline masses of quartz, characterize the uplands. When my +foot and ankle would bear it, I proceeded by easy paces northward, +going, the first day after leaving the Strawberry valley, ten miles, +which brought me to a place called Dogwood Springs, so named from the +<i>cornus florida</i>. The next day I went ten miles further, when I came to +the banks of Spring river, where I was entertained by Major Haynes. Here +I first saw cotton in the fields, being the unpulled bolls of the autumn +crop, which had not been thought worth gathering.</p> + +<p>Feeling no injury to result from these easy marches, which gave me time +to examine the appearances of the surface, I ventured a little farther +on the recovery of my ankle, and, the third day, went nineteen miles. In +this distance I crossed the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>stream called Elevenpoints, a tributary to +Spring river, and came, at a rather late hour in the evening, into a +small valley called Foosh-e-da-maw, a popular corruption of the French +<i>Fourche à Thomas</i>. It was quite dark when I applied for a night's +lodging at a small cabin, being the only one I had encountered for many +miles. The man and his wife, who were its only occupants, were +manifestly not blessed with much of this world's goods; but they were +kind, and, though they had already gone to bed, and had but one room, +they permitted me to occupy a part of the floor. Spare bed they had +none; but, had they possessed ever so many, I did not require one. +Camping out under the open heavens so long, had created a habit which +made it impossible for me to rest in a soft bed. I had declined one the +night before, at Spring river, and thrown myself on a single blanket, on +the hard puncheons. I wished to keep my nerves up to this tense state, +and the hardy habits of the woodman, while I was compelled to foot my +way, and take my chances for rough fare, for some time.</p> + +<p>With the earliest gleams of light I was up, and walked four miles to +breakfast. Twelve more brought me to Hicks's ferry, on a large stream +called the Currents. I had camped on the source of this river, in the +cliffs of the Ozarks, on my outward trip, and found the region +remarkable for its large saltpetre caves. It was here a river of eight +feet deep, and three hundred yards wide. At this spot I should have +stopped; for, after going beyond it, I found the country was thinly +settled, which compelled me to walk some time after nightfall, before I +could find a house; and, on presenting myself, the man proved to be +surly and gruff, and denied me lodging. It was evident to me, from words +that passed, that his wife was expecting to be ill; and, as the house +was small, there seemed some reason for his apparent unkindness. I had +already come twenty-three miles; the night was dark, and threatened +rain; and the next house distant. I should have been happy to exclaim, +with the poet,</p> + +<p class="cen"> +"Turn, gentle hermit of the dale, and guide my lonely way!"</p> + +<p>but there was no gentle hermit in sight. It was clearly not a question +of poetry, but was likely to be one of sober, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>down-right prose. I said +to him, finally, after a look into the black darkness and desolate +woods, that I would only claim my length on the floor, and, to give no +uneasiness to his good lady, be off at the slightest intimation. He +consented, and I laid down without receiving any notice of the lady's +expected illness till morning, when I left my pallet at a very early +hour. For three miles beyond, it was a rough region, through which it +required daylight to pass, and where I must have lost my way in the +dark, had I gone on, the night previously.</p> + +<p>I stopped at a cottage for breakfast. It was occupied by a poor woman. +Everything bore tokens of this fact. She appeared to have little in the +way of eatables herself, but was very willing, in the article of +breakfast, to share that little with me. I had passed the night before +supperless, after a long day's walk, and the morning's air had further +excited my appetite; still, I should have gone on, had another +habitation been near at hand; but what the good woman wanted in means, +she made up in readiness and hearty good-will; and, if the meal was not +sumptuous, I arose as well satisfied as if I had breakfasted with a +lord.</p> + +<p>Thus refreshed, I went on ten miles, which brought me to the banks of +Little Black river. Two miles beyond this stream, I stopped at the house +of a Mr. Reeves, at an early hour in the afternoon, my ankle giving +indications of returning lameness. Quiet, and a night's repose, had the +effect to relieve these symptoms, and I was enabled cautiously to +continue my journey the next day. Daylight was ever my signal for +rising, and, by easy stages, I made seventeen miles during the day, +walking early and late. The first six miles of this distance were made +before I stopped for breakfast, and the next ten miles brought me to the +ferry over Big Black river—a clear, rapid stream, which, in its +progress to the south, is the recipient of all the before-mentioned +streams, from the Strawberry river, north; and is itself, finally, a +tributary of White river, maintaining through it a free navigation with +the Mississippi. After crossing the ferry, I went about half a mile +further, and took up my night's lodgings at a Mr. Bollinger's. I felt no +further weakness of my foot and ankle, and was happy in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>reflection +that my cautious movements had been such as not to overtax the strength +of my nerves. Indeed, from this point, (till 1830,) I experienced no +further symptoms of lameness.</p> +<br /> + +<p>On the next morning (28th), I walked seven miles, and took breakfast at +a Mr. Esty's, where I fell in with the old road, which had originally +been laid, when the country came to be settled, on the ancient Indian +path. The elevated lands between Black river and the St. Francis, had +evidently been the line of march of De Soto, when (in 1541) he set +forward from "Quiguate," on the St. Francis, toward the "north-west," in +search of Coligoa. Any other course between west and south-west, would +have involved his army in the lagoons, and deep and wide channel, of +Black river, which forms a barrier for about one hundred and fifty miles +toward the south; while this dividing ground, between the Black river +and St. Francis, consists chiefly of dry pine lands and open uplands, +offering every facility for the movements of his cavalry, which were +ever the dread of the Indians.</p> + +<p>The first Indian village which De Soto reached, after crossing the +Mississippi—probably at the ancient Indian crossing-place at the lower +Chickasaw bluffs—and pushing on through the low grounds, was on +reaching the elevations of the St. Francis, immediately west of his +point of landing. The place was called Casquin, or Casqui; a name which +will be recognized as bearing a resemblance to one of the Illinois +tribes, who have long been known under the name of Kaskaskias. From this +place on the high lands of the St. Francis, he ascended that river, +keeping the same side of its current, through a fine country, abounding +in the pecan and mulberry, a distance of seven leagues, to the central +position of the Casquins. Here it was, and not on the immediate banks of +the Mississippi, that he erected a gigantic cross, formed out of a pine +tree, which, after it was hewn, a hundred men could not lift.</p> + +<p>From this place, after a rest of several days, he was led, by the wily +chief, to march against the village and chief of Capaha, who was his +hereditary enemy, and who had, in past encounters, proved himself more +than his equal in prowess. De Soto <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>was caught in this trap, which had +nearly proved fatal to his gallant army.</p> + +<p>Descending the high grounds, evidently, towards the north-east, and +crossing alluvial tracts, by a march of about six days he reached the +enemy, well posted, strong in numbers, and of great bravery, on the +pastoral elevations, which we are disposed to look for at the site of +the modern Spanish town of New Madrid. Capaha took shelter on a thickly +wooded island in the Mississippi river, where De Soto, assisted by his +allies, attacked him in canoes, and from which his allies, and +afterwards he himself, were glad to retreat. The chief was a most brave, +energetic young man, and fought against his combined enemies with the +spirit inspired by long acknowledged success. This place formed the +extreme northern limit of De Soto's expedition on the line of the +Mississippi, and must have been north of 35°. After this effort, he +retraced his steps slowly back to Casqui.</p> + +<p>The Kapahas, of whom the Sioux are ethnologically a branch, have +occupied the west banks of the Mississippi, extending to the base of the +Rocky mountains, as long as we have known that stream. They have been +inveterate enemies of the whole Algonquin race, to which the Kaskaskias +and Illinois belonged; and it is not improbable that they had, at this +early day, not only encountered the Spaniards, but that, after their +withdrawal, they fell on the Casquins, and drove them east of the +Mississippi, into the country of the Illinois.</p> + +<p>While De Soto was in the country of Capaha, he learned that about forty +leagues distant, (west, it must needs have been,) there were, in the +hill country, quantities of fossil salt, and also a yellowish metal, +which he supposed to be gold. He despatched two trusty and intelligent +men, with Indian guides and carriers, to procure samples. After an +absence of eleven days, they returned, with six of the Indians laden +with crystals of salt, and one of them with metallic copper. A hundred +and twenty miles west of the supposed point of starting, would carry the +messengers across the valley of White river, and far into the Ozark +plains and elevations, between the south fork of that stream, and the +north banks of the Arkansas—the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>same region, in fine, mentioned, in a +prior part of these sketches, as yielding those articles, on the +authority of the experienced woodsman, Teen Friend. The country through +which these messengers passed was sterile and thinly inhabited; but they +reported it to be filled with herds of buffalo. These reports led him to +march down the banks of the St. Francis, till he reached the village +called Quiguate. From thence, having heard of a locality called Coligoa, +where he thought there might be gold, he marched again north-west in +search of it. This march, in which he followed a single Indian guide, +must have led him to the foot of the rough, mountainous, granitic, and +mineral region, at the sources of the St. Francis. But this search +proved also a disappointment. He was informed that, six leagues north of +Coligoa, the buffalo existed in vast herds; but that, if he would reach +a rich province, he must march south. It is possible that, in this +latitude, he may have, a little, exceeded the utmost point reached by +him on the Mississippi; and he hence confined his adventurous marches to +Southern Missouri and Arkansas.</p> + + +<p>Having taken the road again, after my halt at Esty's, I travelled +diligently ten miles, at which distance I reached the ferry of Dr. +Bettis, at the St. Francis. The scene was rural and picturesque, the +river winding along in a deep and rapid bed, between elevated and +fertile banks. From appearances, and old fields, it seemed altogether +such a spot as might have answered the glowing Spanish descriptions of +Casqui. The ferry was managed by a black man; and we cut an American +half-dollar on the top of an oak stump, agreeably to the Kentucky mode, +to adjust the ferriage. On landing on the north bank, I pursued my +journey six miles farther, to one Smith's. It was now the 28th of +January, and the weather so mild, that I this day found the witch-hazel +in bloom.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>CHAPTER XV.</h2> + +<div class="blockquot"><p class="hang" style="margin-left: 2em;">PROCEED NORTH—INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE—A SEVERE TEMPEST OF +RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM—CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE +COUNTRY—THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO—A PRIMITIVE AND +MINERAL REGION—ST. MICHAEL—MINE A LA MOTTE—WADE THROUGH +WOLF CREEK—A DESERTED HOUSE—CROSS GRAND RIVER—RETURN TO +POTOSI.</p></div> +<br /> + +<p>I left my night's quarters before daylight was fairly developed. The sky +was, indeed, heavily overcast, and it soon commenced raining. Expecting +to find a house at no great distance, I kept on, the rain at the same +time assuming a more settled form, and falling with steadiness. It was +seven miles before I reached shelter (Swaim's). I was thoroughly wetted, +and, the storm continuing without abatement, I remained until the next +morning. The atmosphere was then clear, and the sun rose pleasantly; but +the roads were a perfect quagmire. An immense body of rain had fallen. +Every little rivulet roared as if it were a torrent that was out of all +patience to deliver its quantum of water to the swollen St. Francis. The +ground was perfectly saturated with water; but I picked my way four +miles to breakfast. It had been my intention to cross the St. Francis, +and take the route through Caledonia to Potosi; but after travelling +sixteen miles towards the north-west, and reaching the fords, I found +them too much swollen to make the attempt.</p> + +<p>After crossing the St. Francis, towards the north, there are strong +indications of a change in the geological structure of the country. The +horizontal limestone and sandstone series still continue for a distance; +but they are covered with large blocks of sienite and granite. What is +remarkable in these <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>blocks, is their angular character, which denotes +that they have not been carried far south of their original beds. These +blocks increase in frequency and size as we approach the primitive +highlands of the St. Francis. And I at length stood, gazing at these +rough, red, crystalline peaks, and high orbicular knobs, which reach up +from beneath and through the calcareous and sedimentary series, without +having lifted up the latter into inclined positions, or in the least +disturbing their horizontality—a proof of their priority of position.</p> + +<p>I passed the night near the fords, at a farmer's; and finding it +impossible, the next morning, to pursue this route, or to get a boat or +canoe to cross the river, obtained directions for making my way +north-eastwardly, towards St. Michael's. I was now in the probable +region of De Soto's Coligoa, the utmost north-westwardly point of his +explorations. And it ceased to be a matter of surprise that the Indians +had given him such wonderful accounts of the mineral wealth of the +sources of the St. Francis. The white inhabitants, at this day, have +similar notions. They perceive such an unusual geological display before +and around them, that they suppose it indicates mineral treasures. There +are stories afloat of all kinds of mineral discoveries—not of gold, +indeed, which was De Soto's search, but of tin, lead, copper, iron, +cobalt, and antimony. The iron mountains of Bellevieu, so called, are +part of this development. At a place called the Narrows, the river +rushes between alpine peaks of sienite and black hornblende rock, which +lies in huge and confused heaps, plainly indicating ancient volcanic +action. I had examined this region, with minuteness, the previous +summer, in an excursion through the southern limits of the lead-mines, +and now revisited some of the points, respecting which, my curiosity was +unsatisfied. I wandered among these attractive peaks about ten miles, +and slept at a house (Burdett's), to the occupant of which, I had +carried a letter of introduction the year before.</p> + +<p>The next day (Feb. 1) proved rainy; but I took advantage of intervals in +the weather to advance on my general course about three miles. The sky, +the next morning, was still cloudy, dark, and unsettled. When it +indicated signs of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>clearing up, I was advised of another ford of the +St. Francis, at a higher point; and I proceeded a part of the way to +reach it; but accounts discouraged me, and I bent my steps to the +village of St. Michael. Two miles north of this, I came to the noted +lead-mine of La Motte, the most southerly in position of the Missouri +circle of mines. At this place, they raised large tubular masses of +lead-ore, from its position in the red, marly clay. The slags drawn from +the ash-furnace denoted, by the intensity of their blue color, its +connexion with the oxide of cobalt. Ten miles beyond these mines, after +passing an uninhabited tract, I entered Cook's settlement, where I +slept.</p> + +<p>Next day, I was again in motion at early dawn. The effects of the late +copious rains were still an impediment to travelling; but I experienced +no further symptoms of lameness, and felt the desire to press on, +increasing in proportion as I drew near my starting-point in the prior +autumn. I felt that I had succeeded in the accomplishment of a trip of +some peril, through a noted mountainous range, into which all but one of +my original party had failed to accompany me, and my guides had deserted +me at a moment of peculiar peril. It was also true that my only +companion had rather abruptly left me, when taken lame on the road. I +could not, as I approached the spot of organizing my party for this +exploration, help feeling a degree of buoyancy of spirits, while +returning to it, in the hope of again meeting familiar acquaintances +face to face.</p> + +<p>Under this impulse, and with the high health produced by daily exercise, +I travelled ten miles on the following day. On reaching Wolf creek, it +was found to be filled to overflowing. It was already dark; and a +ruinous, tenantless house, with the doors and windows standing open, was +the only object that presented itself on the opposite bank. Horse or +canoe, there was none; but there could be no hesitation in attempting to +cross it. The waters, in the deepest parts of the channel, reached to my +breast. I came out, of course, dripping; it was still two miles to the +next house, and, casting furtive glances at the masses of darkness in +the deserted dwelling, and with a path muddy and indistinct, I hurried +on to the point of my destination.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>It was the 4th of February when I crossed Big river, the Grande river of +the days of Crozat and the financier Law. I was carried across it in the +ferry-boat, and took my way over the sylvan, long, sweeping mineral +hills, which stretch toward Potosi, entering that busy town at a +seasonable hour, having travelled fifteen miles. The first acquaintance +I encountered, on reaching within a few miles of it, was a Major +Hawkins—a surveyor, an old resident, and a good woodsman, who, +cordially extending his hand to welcome my return, exclaimed, "I thought +the Indians or the wolves had long ago eaten you up." This was the first +intimation I received that there had been any temerity in the plan for +this expedition.</p> + +<p>Potosi was now selected as the place for drawing up an account of the +mines, and the mineralogical productions and resources, of the +country—a memoir on which, was published at New York in the autumn of +this year (1819), and which is inserted, in a revised form, in the +Appendix to these sketches.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST.</h2> + +<p class="cen">TWO LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE HON. J. B. THOMAS, U. S. SENATE, +WASHINGTON.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">I.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Potosi</span>, Missouri, Feb. 9th, 1819.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>: I beg leave to address you on the subject of my recent +expedition into the Ozark region. When I was at your house at Cahokia, I +mentioned to you my design of making a tour into the interior of the +Territory. I have just returned from the excursion. Two persons were +associated with me in the enterprise; but one of them, our mutual +friend, Mr. Brigham, was compelled by illness to relinquish the journey, +and return, after he had reached Potosi.</p> + +<p>We proceeded in a south-west direction, which carried us across the +sources of the Maramec and Gasconade. We then entered on the elevated +highlands, which alternately pour their waters into the Missouri and +Mississippi rivers, reaching, in their development, to the Washita +river. Through this rough alpine range, the Arkansas, rising in the +Rocky mountains, penetrates, and is the only river that completely +separates the chain. Our explorations were confined to the region lying +on its northern banks. Winter overtook us on the sources of the White +river, giving us a few days of severe weather, but offering, generally, +no impediment to travelling. There is much that is most striking and +picturesque in the scenery of this region, and not less in its +productions and physical character. Nowhere, probably, on the globe, is +there such a remarkable succession of limestone caverns, and large, +transparent springs. At several places, large brooks flow abruptly out +of crevices in the rock; and at one place, a flowing stream, Spring +river, thus originates. We found the ores of lead, iron, and manganese, +in large bodies. The high uplands are often rent by precipitous valleys +and large chasms, caused by the force of these streams. These valleys +are well wooded, and contain the richest soil. And this broad region +must at no distant day attract <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>settlement, and will afford facilities +for agriculture and mining, while its abundant water-power gives it +great advantages for milling and manufactures.</p> + +<p>The country is a continuation of the limestone and sandstone formations +of the west banks of the Mississippi. The number and extent of the +caverns in this formation, is, indeed, remarkable. They yield saltpetre +earth, wherever they have been explored. Nitrate of potash has been +manufactured in some of these caves, and transported across the +wilderness for eighty miles; and a valuable traffic in this article may +be established. In the district between the head-waters of White river +and the Arkansas, salt is found, in a crystallized state, in the +prairies. The region is still occupied by herds of the buffalo, elk, +deer, and by the bear, and smaller animals of the latitude, which +renders it an attractive country to hunters and trappers.</p> + +<p>The Osage Indians, who inhabit it, are the cause of fear and alarm to +this class; but it did not appear to us, from the sparse numbers of the +Indians, and the periodical flying visits they are in the habit of +making the eastern and northern parts of it, that there is ground of +permanent apprehension from this source. The policy of locating the +Cherokees on the north banks of the Arkansas, may well be questioned; +and I have heard this arrangement much spoken against.</p> + +<p>Indeed, the agricultural value of the country has been much underrated. +Independent of the mineral discoveries mentioned, the arable lands of +the Ozark summit-level constitute one of the richest and most beautiful +districts in the Territory. The high grass and flowers which cover the +prairie-lands, impart the most sylvan aspect to the scene. Springs of +the purest water abound, and, by avoiding the chasms, the country is +susceptible of being traversed by roads. It only requires to be better +known, to attract the notice of emigrants, and will some day bear a +great population. I do not doubt that the high road from St. Louis to +Fort Smith will probably cross this tract of country. Such a route must +greatly shorten the distance.</p> + +<p>I cannot refer you to a correct map of the country, and therefore +enclose you a sketch, explanatory of my route. From a conversation with +Mr. Brigham, I cannot mistake your friendly influence in these +explorations. I am desirous to extend them to other parts of the +frontiers. I understand that the Secretary of War entertains enlarged +and enlightened views on the subject. I should be pleased to be employed +in this branch of the public service.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span style="padding-right: 6em;">I am, with respect, your ob't serv't,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 3em;" class="smcap">Henry R. Schoolcraft.</span><br /> +</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>II.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">Potosi</span>, Feb. 15th, 1819.</p> + + +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>: I had the honor, on the 9th instant, to address you on the +subject of my journey into the region of the Ozarks. You will allow me +again to trouble you on the subject of explorations.</p> + +<p>Government has long been acquainted, by reports, with the existence of +native copper on the Upper Mississippi, and the banks of lake Superior. +I believe the attempt was made about 1798, to have the localities +explored. I know not what success attended that attempt. Probably the +remoteness of the country, and the hostility of the Indian tribes, were +unfavorable. But I am persuaded that the object is one of importance.</p> + +<p>The mineralogy of those regions became the topic of early interest, even +in the days of the French supremacy. Copper appears to characterize an +extensive area. It is stated to break out in the immediate vicinity of +St. Anthony's falls, and to continue through to the southern shores of +lake Superior. In its exploration, other traits of the natural history +of the country would be developed.</p> + +<p>The establishment of a military post at St. Anthony's falls, renders the +present a favorable time for exploring the region. Its features and +resources are objects of deep interest; and it appears to be the policy +of the government, in the disposition of its western and northern posts, +to prepare the way for ascertaining these traits at the earliest period. +The position of the most advanced posts which are now in the process of +location, is such as to afford great facilities for exploration. The +hostilities of the Indians are repressed, and a survey of these parts of +the public domain could now be effected with comparative safety, and at +little expense.</p> + +<p>Should you think the appointment of an agent for this purpose, to +accompany some of the military movements, would be favorably received by +the Secretary of War, may I indulge the hope that, in recommending it, +you will remember me in the premises?</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span style="padding-right: 6em;">I am, with respect, your ob't serv't,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 3em;" class="smcap">Henry R. Schoolcraft.</span><br /> +</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<h2>APPENDIX.</h2><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> +<br /> + +<h3>OBSERVATIONS<br /> + +ON THE<br /> + +MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, ANTIQUITIES,<br /> + +AND<br /> + +GEOGRAPHY OF THE WESTERN COUNTRY.</h3> +<br /> +<br /> + + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>LIST OF PAPERS.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 152"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="10%"> </td> + <td class="tdl" width="90%"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">A. MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">1. <span class="smcap">A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">2. <span class="smcap">A Catalogue of the Minerals of the Mississippi Valley.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">3. <span class="smcap">Mineral Resources of the Western Country. A Letter to Gen. + C. G. Haines.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">B. GEOGRAPHY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">1. <span class="smcap">Missouri.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">2. <span class="smcap">Hot Springs of Washita.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">3. <span class="smcap">Memoir of White River.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">4. <span class="smcap">List of Steamboats on the Mississippi River in 1819.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">C. ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">1. <span class="smcap">Articles of curious workmanship found in ancient Indian Graves.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">2. <span class="smcap">Ancient Indian Cemetery found in the Maramec Valley.</span></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>I. LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI.</h2> + +<h3>A MEMOIR ON THE GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY OF MISSOURI, DRAWN UP IN 1819.</h3> +<br /> + + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>PREFACE.</h2> +<br /> + +<p>When we reflect on the history of our own country—its advance in arts, +commerce, and agriculture, and the rapidity with which its population +has increased, and its resources been developed—the mind is with +difficulty brought to believe that all this has taken place within a +comparatively short period. These developments are particularly striking +in the region west of the Alleghany mountains. A new world has, as it +were, been discovered in the Mississippi valley, which, under the strong +impulse of emigration, has been transformed, as if by superhuman +exertions. No sooner had its great fertility and productiveness become +known, than a universal desire for correct information sprang up. Our +first travellers in that region did little more, however, than glance at +its most obvious and grand features; and with respect to some topics, +such as its antiquities and natural history, these notices have had the +effect rather to stimulate, than to gratify curiosity.</p> + +<p>But, whatever information has been published respecting the country, its +mineralogy and geology have remained wholly unnoticed. The mines of +Missouri, especially, have failed to attract the consideration which +they merit. To supply this deficiency, I have written the following +memoir. It is the result of no ordinary degree of opportunity of +observation upon the particular mines, and their geological position in +the great metalliferous limestone formation west of the Mississippi. +Besides visiting the principal mines, and traversing <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>the country +thoroughly, to ascertain the character and value of its mineral +resources and geological developments, I made an exploratory tour +through the broad and elevated region of the Ozarks, lying west and +south of this celebrated tract, extending into the Territory of +Arkansas. If, therefore, I have failed to collect a body of facts +sufficient to impress the reader with a sense of the extent, value, and +importance of the country, and particularly of its mines and minerals, +it can hardly be ascribed to a want of opportunity, or, indeed, of +assiduity in the study or arrangement of my facts.</p> + +<p>The historical data here recorded, respecting Renault's operations, have +never, I believe, appeared in print. They were elicited in the course of +a legal investigation, instituted between the heirs-at-law of Renault, +the agent of Crozat, in 1723, and sundry individuals, who claimed the +same grants on the authority of a date subsequent to the transfer of +Louisiana to the United States.</p> + +<p>The drawings I give of the lead-furnaces which are peculiar to that +section of country, are from actual measurement, done under the eye of +an operative smelter of approved skill at Potosi, and are conceived to +be minutely correct.</p> + +<p class="right smcap">Henry R. Schoolcraft.</p> +<p class="noin" style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">New York</span>, Nov. 25, 1819.</p> + +<p>In republishing this memoir, advantage has been taken of several +judicious suggestions respecting it, made in a critical notice of it, by +the able editor of the American Journal of Science, in the volume of +that work for 1821.</p> + +<p class="right">H. R. S.</p> +<p class="noin" style="margin-left: 1em;"><span class="smcap">Washington</span>, Jan. 20, 1853.</p> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI.</h2> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">SECTION I.</p> + +<p class="cen">HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE MINES.</p> + +<p>The rage for adventure, which the brilliant exploits of Cortez, Pizarro, +and other Spanish adventurers, had excited throughout Europe, continued +for a long time to agitate the public mind, and had not abated at the +commencement of the eighteenth century, when an idea of the mineral +riches of Louisiana had become prevalent. Gold and silver were then the +chief objects which engrossed attention; and in search of them, the +earliest discoverers were led to penetrate into the interior. The +physical aspect of the country was in general such as to flatter the +most sanguine expectations of mineral wealth; and the further the +country became known, the more interesting was found its mineralogical +character. To men whose preconceived ideas of a country were already +high, such appearances must have had the most inspiriting effect, and +lightened the embarrassments they encountered in exploring a wilderness. +Many of the useful metals were thus met with, and gold and silver mines +were reported to have been discovered in several places. Red river, the +Arkansas, and the river La Platte of the Missouri, were particularly +mentioned; and from the evidence which is afforded by the discovery of +ancient furnaces, &c., there is reason to conclude that those metals +were wrought at a very early period. Judging from appearances, they were +ready to conclude the country exhaustless in mines; and the most +exaggerated accounts of them appear to have been transmitted to Europe, +particularly to France, where a lively interest was felt in the +prosperity of the infant colonies in Louisiana and Illinois; and in the +descriptions published at that day, the lands are reputed to equal in +fertility the banks of the Nile, and the mountains to vie with the +wealth of Peru.</p> + +<p>It was in this supposition of the immense wealth of Louisiana, both in +the vegetable and mineral kingdoms, that the renowned Mississippi scheme +originated, which, from the imposing character it was made to assume +under the guidance and direction of M. Law, drew upon it the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>eyes, not +only of France, but of all Europe, and produced one of the most +memorable disappointments recorded in the annals of commercial +speculation.</p> + +<p>Louis XIV., by letters patent, bearing date September 14th, A. D. 1712, +granted to Anthony Crozat, Counsellor of State, Secretary of the +Household, &c., the exclusive privilege of commerce of that district of +country, now known as the States of Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, +and Illinois, and the Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, with the +proprietary right of the mines and minerals he should discover in the +country, reserving the fifth part of all bullion of gold and silver, and +the one-tenth of the produce of all other mines. The exclusive privilege +of commerce was granted for a term of fifteen years; but the right of +the mines was conveyed in perpetuity to him and his heirs, on the +condition that such mines and minerals should revert back to the crown +of France, whenever the working of them was discontinued for three years +together. The bounds of Louisiana, as granted to Crozat, are described +in these words: "Bounded by New Mexico, (on the west,) and by the lands +of the English of Carolina, (on the east,) including all the +establishments, ports, havens, rivers, and principally the port and +haven of the Isle of Dauphine, heretofore called Massaerè; the river of +St. Louis, heretofore called Mississippi, from the edge of the sea as +far as the Illinois; together with the river of St. Philip, heretofore +called Ouabache (Wabash); with all the countries, territories, lakes +within land, and the rivers which fall directly or indirectly into that +part of the river of St. Louis."</p> + +<p>In the month of August, A. D. 1717, M. Crozat solicited permission to +retrocede to the crown his privilege of the exclusive commerce and the +mines of Louisiana, which was granted by an arret of the Council of +State, during the minority of Louis XV. In the same month, letters +patent were granted by the Council of the Regency to an association of +individuals at Paris, under the name of "The Company of the West," by +which they were invested with the exclusive privilege of the commerce of +Louisiana, and the working of the mines, to the same extent as it was +enjoyed under the grant of Crozat. These letters patent were dated on +the 23d of August, A. D. 1717, registered 6th September of the same +year, and were to be in force on the 1st of January, 1718, and to +continue for a period of twenty-five years. By them, not only such +grants and privileges were conveyed as had previously been enjoyed by +Crozat; but they were invested with additional powers, rights, and +privileges. The territory was granted in free allodium, (<i>en franc +allieu</i>,) in lordship and injustice, the crown reserving to itself no +other rights or duties but those of fealty and liege homage, which the +company was required to pay to the king, and to his successors at each +mutation of kings, with a crown of gold of the weight of thirty marks. +The boundaries were the same as described in the grant to Crozat; and +the mines and mining grounds, opened or discovered during the term of +its privilege, were declared to belong to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>company incommutably, +without being holden to pay any rents or proceeds whatever. The company +was also invested with the right to sell and alienate the lands of its +concession, at whatever price or rents they might fix, and even to grant +them <i>en franc allieu</i>, without reserving the rights of justice or +lordship. It was also provided, that if, after the expiration of the +twenty-five years for which the exclusive privilege of commerce was +granted, the king should not see proper to continue the privilege by a +new grant, all the lands and islands, mines, and mining grounds, which +the Company of the West should have inhabited, worked, improved, or +disposed of on rent, or any valuable consideration whatever, should +remain to it for ever in fee simple, to use and dispose of as a proper +inheritance, on the simple condition that the company should never sell +such lands to any other than the subjects of France.</p> + +<p>A company incorporated with such ample rights and privileges, did not +fail to draw upon it the attention of the speculative, or to enlist the +aid of the enterprising capitalists of the French metropolis. The +country of the Illinois was reputed rich beyond comparison: the +financial estimates submitted to the view of the public, offered +prospects of unusual gain, and capitalists flocked with avidity from all +quarters to enrol themselves as members of the company, and partake of +the promised wealth. If anything had been wanting to accelerate the pace +of adventurers, or to fan the ardor of hope, it was the genius, the +financial abilities, and the commanding influence of M. Law, who was +placed at the head of the company, and was the moving power in every +transaction. Hence, it is no subject for surprise that the most +extravagant anticipations were entertained by the members of the Company +of the West, or that the unusual splendor of the Mississippi scheme was +only equalled by the signal disappointment in which it eventuated.</p> + +<p>In the year after the Company of the West had been instituted by the +royal patent of the king, they formed an establishment in the country of +the Illinois, at fort Chartres; and in order to promote the objects of +their institution, and to encourage the settlement of the country, held +out the most liberal inducements to French emigrants, and made them +donations of all lands which they should cultivate or improve. Miners +and mechanics were also encouraged to emigrate; and the city of New +Orleans, which had been founded during the last year of the authority of +Crozat (1717), received a considerable accession to its population in +the fall of the same year, and settlements began to extend along the +banks of the Mississippi, and in the country of the Illinois.</p> + +<p>Among the number of adventurers to Illinois, was Philip Francis Renault, +(the son of Philip Renault, a noted iron-founder at Consobre, near to +Mauberge, in France,) who came over as the agent of the Company of St. +Phillips, an association of individuals which had been formed under the +patronage of the western company, for prosecuting the mining business in +the upper country of Louisiana and Illinois. It appears also <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>that he +was a member of the Company of the West, and he is spoken of as +"Director-General of the mines of the Royal Company in Illinois;" a name +by which not only the present State of Illinois, but a vast district of +the adjoining country, appears then to have been known.</p> + +<p>Renault left France in the year 1719, with two hundred artificers and +miners, provided with tools, and whatever else was necessary for +carrying the objects of the company into effect. In his passage he +touched at the island of St. Domingo, and purchased five hundred slaves +for working the mines; and, entering the Mississippi, pursued his voyage +up that river to New Orleans, which he reached some time in the year +1720, and soon afterwards proceeded on his way to Kaskaskia, in +Illinois. Kaskaskia was then inhabited solely by the French, and was one +of the earliest posts occupied by them when they began to extend +themselves from Canada, along the great western lakes, and down the Ohio +and Mississippi. Renault established himself in the vicinity of this +town, near fort Chartres, at a spot which he named St. Phillips, (now +called the Little Village,) and from this sent out his mining and +exploring parties into various sections of Illinois and Louisiana. These +parties were either headed by himself, or by M. La Motte; an agent +versed in the knowledge of minerals, whom he had brought over with him. +In one of the earliest of these excursions La Motte discovered the +lead-mines on the St. Francis, which bear his name; and, at a subsequent +period, Renault made the discovery of those extensive mines north of +Potosi, which continue to be called after him. Other mines of lead were +also found, but their distinctive appellations have not survived; and a +proof of the diligence with which Renault prosecuted the object, is +furnished by the number and extent of the old diggings which are yet +found in various parts of the country. These diggings are scattered over +the whole mine country; and hardly a season passes, in which some +antique works, overgrown with brush and trees, are not found.</p> + +<p>Renault, being probably disappointed in the high expectations he had +formed of finding gold and silver, turned his whole force towards the +smelting of lead; and there is reason to conclude that very great +quantities were made. It was conveyed from the interior on pack-horses +(the only mode of transportation which was practicable at that early +period). The lead made by Renault was sent to New Orleans, and thence +chiefly shipped for France. That he also discovered copper, is probable, +as a grant of land made to him at Old Peoria, on the Illinois river, +embraces a copper-mine.</p> + +<p>Renault's operations were, however, retarded and checked, from a quarter +where it was least expected. By an edict of the king, made at Paris, in +May, 1719, the Company of the West was united to the East India and +Chinese Company, under the title of the Company Royal of the Indies (<i>La +Compagnie Royale des Indies</i>). And in 1731, the whole territory was +retroceded to the crown of France, the objects of the company <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>having +totally failed; and Renault was left in America, without the means of +prosecuting the shining business. His exertions in behalf of the company +were not, however, overlooked by the government, and four several grants +of land were made to him in consideration of his services. These grants +bear date June 14th, A. D. 1723, and cover the Mine La Motte, and some +other very valuable tracts, which, after having laid dormant for a +period of about sixty years, have recently been claimed by the +representatives of his heirs-at-law.</p> + +<p>Renault, however, remained in Illinois several years after the explosion +of the Mississippi scheme, and did not return to his native country +until 1742. With him the greater part of his workmen returned; the +slaves were sold, and the mining business fell into neglect. Here is a +period to the first attempt at mining in Louisiana. The country was +ceded to Spain in 1762, and taken possession of in 1769.</p> + +<p>After Renault's departure, little or nothing appears to have been done +in the way of mining; and, even after the Spanish had taken possession +of the country, the lead-mines were but little attended to. The force +which Renault had with him was sufficient to protect him from the +attacks of the savages; but, after his departure, the settlements on the +Mississippi, feeble in themselves, could not furnish protection to such +as might be disposed to work at the mines. The Spanish, however, in a +few years after taking possession of the country, did something; and in +process of time new discoveries were made, and the mining business began +to assume a more respectable character. The principal discovery made +under the Spanish authority was that of Mine à Burton, which takes its +name from a person of the name of Burton, or Le Breton,<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> who, being +out on a hunt <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>in that quarter, found the ore lying on the surface of +the ground. This man, who is still living in the vicinity of St. +Genevieve, at the advanced age of one hundred and nine years, had been +employed while a youth under Renault. The period of this discovery it +would be very difficult now to ascertain, Burton himself being unable to +fix it. It has probably been known about forty years.</p> + +<p>The processes of mining pursued under the Spanish government appear to +have been very rude and imperfect, not more than fifty per cent. of lead +being got from the ore. The common open log furnace was the only one +employed, and the lead-ashes were thrown by as useless.</p> + +<p>In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., performed a journey from the lead-mines in +Wythe county, Virginia, to the Mine à Burton, in Louisiana, and obtained +a grant of land one league square, from the Spanish authorities, in +consideration of erecting a reverberatory furnace, and other works, for +prosecuting the mining business at those mines. This he commenced in +1798, previous to which time no furnace for smelting the ashes of lead +had been erected. Mr. Austin sunk the first regular shaft for raising +the ore, and introduced some other improvements which were found +beneficial. He also, in 1799, erected a shot-tower, in which patent shot +of an approved quality were made. A manufactory of sheet-lead was +completed during the same year, and the Spanish arsenals at New Orleans +and Havana drew a considerable part of the supplies for their navy from +this source.</p> + +<p>About this time, a few other American families crossed over into +Louisiana Territory, and settled in the neighborhood of the mines. +These, from their more enlightened and enterprising spirit, were an +acquisition to the mining interest; and as their earliest attention was +directed to it, the lead business began to revive; and at the time the +Territory was taken possession of by the United States, the mines were +extensively and advantageously worked.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> The Mine à Robino, Mine à +Martin, and many others, were shortly afterwards discovered. Since the +year 1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied; +Shibboleth, New Diggings, Lebaum's, and Bryan's mines, are among the +latest discoveries of consequence.</p> + +<p>The lead-mines did not fail to attract the earliest attention of the +American government; and, immediately after the occupation of the +Territory, measures were taken to ascertain their situation, the method +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span>of working them, &c. Several laws have since been enacted on the +subject, and a reservation made of all discoveries upon public lands.</p> + +<p>The emigration to Louisiana, which had partially commenced under the +Spanish government, took a more decided character after the cession of +the country to the United States, but has been particularly great within +the last few years.</p> + +<p>In 1812, that part of Louisiana bordering on the gulf of Mexico, +including New Orleans, and extending up the Mississippi to 33° north +latitude, was erected into a State under the name of Louisiana, and the +remainder formed into a territorial government by the name of Missouri. +There is a petition now before Congress (Feb. 1819) for the admission of +Missouri into the Union on a footing with the original States. By this +petition it is contemplated that White river will form the southern +boundary; and the country between that and the northern line of +Louisiana, including our claims on the Spanish, will be erected into a +territorial government, under the name of Arkansas.<a name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a></p> + +<p>Respecting the present state of the lead-mines, it is only necessary +here to add, that they are worked in a more improved manner than at any +former period; that they are more extensive than when the country came +into the hands of the United States, and of course give employment to a +greater number of miners, while every season is adding to the number of +mines; and that the ores may be considered of the richest kind. Every +day is developing to us the resources of this country in minerals, and +particularly in lead; and we cannot resist the belief that, in riches +and extent, the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no other mineral +district. In working the mines, in raising and smelting the ore, and in +the establishment of the different manufactures dependent upon it, there +is much to be done. Though the processes now pursued are greatly +superior to those in use under the French and Spanish governments, there +is still ample room for improvement. The earth has not yet been +penetrated over eighty feet! We know not what may be found in the lower +strata of the soil. There is reason to believe that the main bodies of +ore have not yet been hit upon; that they lie deeper, and that we have +thus far only been engaged upon the spurs and detached masses. There is +also reason to believe that bodies of the ores of zinc exist in the +district of the mines, and that copper will be afforded by the lower +strata of earth. It is found overlaid by lead-ores in many of the +European mines; and the geognostic character of the country leads us to +conclude that it may also be found here.</p> + +<p>The want of capitalists in the mine country, and of practical skill in +the boring, blasting, sinking shafts and galleries, oppose obstacles to +the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>successful progress of mining. There is but one regular +hearth-furnace for smelting in the whole district; and that is on the +modern plan of English furnaces. There are not over four or five regular +shafts in about forty mines; there is not an engine, either by horse, +steam, or water power, for removing water from the mines, several of +which have been abandoned on this account, with rich prospects of ore in +view. In fine, there is little of that system which characterizes the +best-conducted European mines, and which, by an application of the most +recent discoveries in mechanics, chemistry, and philosophy, render them +the admiration of every intelligent visiter. Should the subject attract +the attention of mining capitalists, the circumstance would form a new +era in the history of the mining operations of this country. Something +also remains to be done by the government; the existing laws are +inadequate to the purposes for which they were enacted. That feature +restricting leases to three years, is injudicious; the period is so +short, that it deters those who are most able from engaging in it at +all. It is desirable that such a system should be established as would +indicate the annual produce of the mines, number of hands employed, and +such other facts as are necessary in forming a series of statistical +tables on the subject. The want of such data has hitherto prevented us +from properly estimating the importance of the mines in a national point +of view. The acquisition of a scientific knowledge of minerals should +also be facilitated in this quarter. There should be a mineralogical +school located in the country, where students might be instructed in +that useful science. In a country so rich in minerals, and whose wealth +will always so much depend upon a proper development of these resources, +the knowledge of mineralogy should be laid open to every one, and should +be within the reach of such as do not wish, or cannot get, the other +branches of a liberal education. To obtain this knowledge now, a person +would be compelled to travel to remote parts of the Union, and to incur +an unreasonable expense. No one who is conversant with the advantages +which Germany has derived from such a seminary, will deny the utility of +a similar one in the United States.</p> + +<p>Yet, with all the disadvantages under which the lead-mines have been +viewed, there are many who may be surprised to find their annual +products, from the best information, stated at three millions of pounds; +and from this some idea may be formed of their riches and extent, and, +when they come to be properly and regularly worked, how greatly they +will contribute to the national wealth.<a name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a></p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span>SECTION II.</p> + +<p class="cen">TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL OUTLINE OF THE MINE COUNTRY.</p> + +<p>The district of country formerly known as the lead-mines of Louisiana, +extends from the head waters of the St. Francis, in a north-west +direction, to the Maramec, a distance of seventy miles, by about +forty-five in width, having the Mississippi on its eastern borders. It +is included, very nearly, between 37° and 38° north latitude, and +comprises an area of about three thousand square miles. Most of the +mines are situated within a circle of this general area, of which Potosi +and Mine à Burton constitute a centre.</p> + +<p>The rock formation of the country appears to be simple and uniform. At +the lowest depths observed in valleys, there is a crystalline sandstone, +which often consists of transparent quartzose grains, adhering by the +force of aggregation. The lead-bearing limestone reposes upon this. Both +formations are deposited in perfectly horizontal strata. Valleys which +carry streams have been worn down into this formation, presenting this +order of arrangement very satisfactorily. A stratum of red, marly clay, +spreads over the limestone. Above this, constituting the top layer, or +surface soil, rests a bed of diluvial materials, filled with broken-down +fragments of rock, masses of radiated quartz, and chips of hornstone. +Vegetable matter and black sand form a covering over such parts of this +diluvial deposit as constitute valleys and agricultural plains. The +Mississippi river lays open this formation along its western banks, from +the influx of the Missouri to Cape Girardeau.</p> + +<p>Beneath this metalliferous column lie the primitive rocks. The most +striking feature of this kind is found in the occurrence of a primitive +formation at the sources of the river St. Francis. My attention was +arrested by this fact, soon after I began to examine the mine country. +This formation consists of sienite, rather than granite; the mica being +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span>generally replaced or represented by hornblende. The feldspar, which +constitutes three-fourths of the mass, is of a dull red hue. The rock in +connection is greenstone trap, which is sometimes porphyritic. I +observed small masses of sulphuret of iron in some parts of this rock. +The upheaval of this formation appears to have been of the most ancient +era of geological action; for the stratified limestones and sandstones, +which lie upon or in juxtaposition to these elevations, have not been +disturbed in their horizontality. The altitude of this primitive tract +does not probably exceed one thousand feet above the waters of the St. +Francis river. Vast blocks of the red sienite have been detached, and +scattered southwardly over the secondary rocks, apparently by the force +of some antique deluge, setting from the north. The whole series of +formations may be judged of by the following diagram:</p> + +<div class="img"> +<a href="images/imagep162.jpg"> +<img border="0" src="images/imagep162.jpg" width="75%" alt="Formations" /></a><br /> +</div> + + +<p>The general aspect of the country is sterile, though not mountainous. +The lands lie rolling, like a body of water in gentle agitation. In some +places they rise into abrupt cliffs, where the rock formations appear. +Generally, they present the form of diluvial ridges, sparingly covered +with forest, and bearing a growth of prairie-grass and herbage. The +western banks of the Mississippi, between St. Genevieve and Herculaneum, +present a mural front to this district, in a series of elevated +perpendicular cliffs of compact limestone. The whole coast extending to +St. Louis, appears to be sufficiently elevated to have served as a +former barrier to waters covering the low grounds of Illinois. The +strata exhibit ancient water-marks of a diluvial character. They are +broken through, from the west, by small streams draining the mine +country.</p> + +<p>No indications of lead-ore have been found in these cliffs. The mines +are situated at considerable distances west of them; and when the +observer has arrived at their localities, he finds the ore often lying +in the unconsolidated soil. This soil is a stiff, reddish-colored clay, +filled with fragments of cherty stones, quartz, and small gravel, +clearly attesting its diluvial character. This soil extends to the depth +of from ten to twenty feet, or more, and is based on limestone rock. It +is so firm, in some places, as almost to resist the pick-axe; in others, +it partakes more fully of marl, and is readily penetrated. The ore lies +in this marly clay, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>is often accompanied by sulphate of barytes and +calcareous spar. The country is particularly characterized by radiated +quartz, which is strewn in detached pieces over the ground, and is also +found imbedded in the soil at all depths. This substance is here called +<i>blossom of lead</i>, or <i>mineral blossom</i>. Pyrites, and some other ores of +iron, are also found in detached masses upon the surface, and, very +rarely, lead-ore.</p> + +<p>Such is the general character of the mineral lands, which are covered +with a stunted growth of oaks, denominated post-oaks. Walnut is found in +some instances out of the valleys. A ridge of yellow pine extends west +of the mines, between the St. Francis and Maramec, and is more decidedly +barren than the grounds covered with oak. All the open, elevated tracts, +are clothed with herbage, which hides their flinty aspect, and gives the +country a picturesque appearance. The minor slopes and ravines are often +rendered almost impassable by hazel, vines, and other bramble, which +appear to be indicative of a better, or rather a deeper soil. The whole +area of upland soil, which rests as a mantle over the rocks, is a +diluvium, which must, we think, be referred to an early period of +diluvial action.</p> + +<p>The only true alluvium of the mines appears to be confined to the +valleys or plains, which are, consequently, the principal seats of +cultivation, and thus derive an additional value from their contiguity +to the barren tracts. This alluvium rests on the red marl-clay, or +mineral diluvium; the latter of which is uniformly found on penetrating +it. Some of the mines exist in, and have been pursued beneath, this top +alluvion, across the valleys. Others are seated beneath an arable soil, +bearing a forest. Many of the most barren and stony parts of the +elevated lands are, on the contrary, destitute of mines. The depth of +the mineral soil varies exceedingly. It barely conceals the rock +formations in many of the more elevated positions, and frequently does +not conceal them. It is deepest in the plains and depressed grounds, +being accumulated much in the manner we should expect, on the +supposition of a general diluvial submersion.</p> + +<p>The principal objection to a general diluvial action, involving the +whole Mississippi valley, appears to arise from the admission of the +limestone rock's being the true locality of the ore. But we think there +are too many facts in support of this opinion, to leave any reasonable +grounds for questioning it. Several of the mines in the mineral soil +have been traced down into the rock, and have been pursued through +apertures, closing and expanding in the manner of true veins. In the +numerous cases where the rock has put a stop to further mining, and it +has exhibited no signs of ore, it may be supposed that the ore has been +moved, by diluvial force, from the original position of the mine, and +been finally deposited, with the soil, upon unmetalliferous portions of +the rock. And could we with certainty determine the course of diluvial +action, the principles of mining might be, in some respects, employed in +searching for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>the original vein. It is evident, from the unscratched +and unbroken surface of much of the ore and its spars, that it could not +have been transported far; while the portions of it called gravel ore, +which evince its diluvial character, are manifest proofs of a change, +more or less extensive, in the general position of the ore.</p> + +<p>With respect to the character of the limestone, we have been perplexed +with its protean character, and, to avoid apparent contradictions, were +led, at first, to adopt distinctions of strata, which we very soon saw +were untenable. It is evidently the American equivalent for the +metalliferous limestone of England, and, as a formation, is of the +transition era. In a specimen of this rock, now before us, taken from a +fresh excavation at Potosi, forty feet below the surface of the soil, +and thirty-one feet below the original surface of the rock, the +structure is in part compact, and in part granular; the compact portions +having minute shining crystalline points, and the granular being without +any appearance of crystallization, but changing, in the width of about +forty lines, from compact granular to a dull arenaceous structure, quite +friable between the fingers. Part of the mass is vesicular, and the +vesicles are studded over with minute crystals of white opaque quartz. +The two extremes of this specimen have the appearance of totally +different formations, yet are both calcareous. By experiment, I found a +portion of the lower arenaceous part almost completely soluble, in the +cold, in nitro-sulphuric acid; and the actual residuum was, in part, +owing to a defect in trituration.</p> + +<p>Most of the limestone rock disclosed by excavation in the mines, is of +the granulated kind; while the structure of the rock above the surface, +where the strata are exposed to the weather, as in cliffs and +hill-sides, is of the solid, glistening, pseudo-compact variety. Both +these varieties, as shown in the specimen, are geologically identical, +notwithstanding their striking differences in hardness, structure, +colour, and particularly in crystalline lustre. This lustre is, however, +as shown by examination with the magnet, owing almost exclusively to +minute facets of calcareous crystals, which render it rather sparry than +crystalline.</p> + +<p>We have examined large portions of this rock, in all its varieties, for +organic remains; but have not succeeded in finding any +well-characterized species, although a further and fuller search might, +and probably would, disclose some species. We observed a single mass of +the rock, an imperfectly columniform structure, apparently organic. The +rock is rather vesicular than cavernous in its structure. The heavy +deposit of diluvium conceals the surface. But if the appearances in the +mine-diggings are to be received as general indicia, the surface of the +concealed rock is extremely rough and irregular, standing up, in the +mineral soil, in huge lumps, which renders the general depth at which it +may be reached, a question of great uncertainty.</p> + +<p>It has been intimated that the sparry-compact, and the dull granulated +varieties of the limestone, are often contiguous; and we have seen, by +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>the examination of a hard specimen, that they are geologically +identical as a formation. If this compact variety from the mines be +compared with the principal formation in the precipitous cliffs forming +the western banks of the Mississippi, in front of the mine tract, they +will be found to coincide in so many points, that these two localities +may be deemed parts of the same formation, and as being identical in +age. The principal differences consist in the occurrence of organic +remains in the strata along the banks of the Mississippi; a discovery +attributable to the more full exposure of these cliffs to observation. +There is also an apparent absence of the granulated, or sand-lime +variety. These two calcareous tracts are not, however, continuous, being +separated by a formation of granular quartz, or white crystalline +sandstone, which runs nearly parallel with the Mississippi for a +distance, a few miles west of it. This stratum of rock, which appears to +be rather a quartzose sandstone than a granular quartz, reappears west +of Potosi, in the barren area called the Pinery, and is also apparent at +several localities between the waters of the Maramec and the St. +Francis.</p> + +<p>At a point thirty miles west of the Mississippi, in about the latitude +of St. Genevieve, the primitive formation reveals itself in a series of +mountain masses of granite, which cover a comparatively extensive area. +This tract appears to be the nucleus of the country, rising through the +great secondary formations which intervene between the Alleghany and the +Rocky mountains. Its western limits have not yet been explored; but it +probably covers an area of not less than a hundred square miles. The +mines lie north of it. This granite is composed almost exclusively of +reddish feldspar and quartz. The proportion of mica is small, and this +mineral is often absent. It has been employed as a material for +millstones. It is connected with greenstone, which is sometimes +porphyritic.</p> + +<p>We have now three formations of rock, as constituting the mine series; +and it only remains to point out their relative position and extent, +with the best means at our command. This might seem to be a very simple +process, and would indeed be so, were it not that the area over which +the formations extend is extensive, and is covered with deep formations +of the diluvial and alluvial character, bearing a forest. The primitive +is immediately succeeded by the two latter. Mine à La Motte is situated +in the mineral diluvium, and is distant about two miles from the granite +on Blackford's fork. The first appearance of rock, in situ, north of +this point, is at Rock creek, a few miles distant, where the granular +quartzose sandstone appears. There is no further appearance of rock in +this direction for many miles. The white crystalline sand-caves of St. +Genevieve are seated in this formation. It is again disclosed on the +Platten creek, and in the elevations west of the Joachim creek, called +Fort Rock, and in the white sand-caves near Herculaneum. Whether it is +continued farther in the approach to the Maramec, cannot be stated; but +the line of country which is thus traversed by it, is probably sixty +miles. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>only point where this rock appears on the banks of the +Mississippi, is in the range of the Cornice Rocks.</p> + +<p>Proceeding west across this formation, the mineral diluvium succeeds, +and conceals the rock formations; but, wherever they are disclosed by +the action of the streams, and by excavations, the metalliferous +limestone appears, which constitutes the lowest stratum yet found in the +mine region proper. But it is to be observed, that no excavations of any +considerable depth have been made; the rock has not been penetrated to +any great depth. The principal seat of the mines consists of the area +included within the circuits of the Grand river and Mineral Fork, +constituting the main tributaries of the Maramec. These streams extend +something in the shape of a horse-shoe around the mines. Immediately +west and south-west of this area, the white sandstone reappears, +extending south towards the granite. The position of the two formations +may be represented by a pair of expanded dividers, opening northward; +the two shanks of which denote the sandstone ridges, and the head, or +rivet, the primitive.</p> + +<p>The most valuable mineral products of the mines, in addition to lead, +are iron and salt; the latter of which is made, in limited quantities, +at a saline spring at Madansburgh, in the county of St. Genevieve. Other +indications of it exist at one or two localities in the township of +Bellevieu, and on the Maramec river, where efforts were formerly made to +manufacture salt.</p> + +<p>Iron-ores are found at numerous points; but no body of the ores of this +metal is known, comparable, in extent or value, to the locality of +Bellevieu, called the Iron Mountain. The ore exists, at this place, in a +very massive form. It is in the state of a micaceous oxide. It has been +tried in a slag furnace, and smelted easily, without a flux. The iron +obtained was of a very malleable quality, and spread freely under the +hammer. This locality is embraced by the waters of Cedar creek, which, +at the distance of seven miles, are stated to afford a water-power +adequate for the reduction and working of the ore. About five miles +distant, at Stout's settlement, occurs another body of this ore.</p> + +<p>Zinc is found, in the form of a sulphuret, in small quantities, at +several of the lead-mines in Washington county. A single mass of the +sulphuret of antimony has been discovered in the granitical district, +which affords also a locality of coarse graphite, and some other +minerals, which will be noticed in the sequel.</p> + +<p>A sulphur spring exists a few miles west of the Mississippi, in +Jefferson county. The water issues, in a copious stream, from an +aperture, situated near a cliff of the compact limestone. It is of a +bright, transparent quality, but indicates, by its taste, its +sulphureous impregnation, and deposits sulphur, in a whitish pulpy form, +on the pebble-stones and fallen vegetation of the brook which issues +from the spring.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>Topographically considered, the mine country is a hilly and uneven +tract, having a considerable elevation above the waters of the +Mississippi. It is well watered, with numerous springs, brooks, and +streams, and, from the prevalence of a firm diluvial soil, affords +facilities for roads. The climate is favorable to health. The manner in +which the smelting of the ores is performed, being in the open air, is +probably less injurious to those engaged in it, than if the furnaces +were enclosed with buildings.</p> + +<p>Some losses are sustained in the death of cattle, which die with a +disease called the mine sickness. Cows and horses, which are frequently +seen licking around old furnaces, often die without any apparent cause. +Cats and dogs are taken with violent fits, which never fail, in a short +time, to terminate their lives. This is usually attributed, by the +inhabitants, to the effects of sulphur, driven off from the ores in +smelting. It is more probable that it arises from the sulphurous acid in +its combination with barytes, which may operate as a poison to animals. +The sickness is wholly confined to quadrupeds.<a name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p> + +<p>The soil thrown out of the pits, at the abandoned mines, is found to +produce some plants, and even trees, which are not peculiar to the +surface. Such are the cotton-wood and the beech-grape, species which are +usually confined to the arenaceous alluvions of valleys. And we think +their growth here is not promoted by the mineral clay, which is +manifestly of a fertilizing property, when cast on the surface; but to +the disintegration of the sand-lime, producing a soil favorable to such +productions. The sensitive brier, observed in the mine district, is +evidently not of this class, as it is found remote from any mine +excavations.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>SECTION III.</p> + +<p class="cen">LOCAL POSITION OF THE SEVERAL MINES.</p> + +<p>Since the first discovery of lead in this Territory, the number of mines +has been much increased, and hardly a season passes without some new +discovery. Every discovery of importance soon becomes the centre of +mining attraction. As the ore is found in the diluvial soil, it is +generally exhausted on reaching the solid rock; and after penetrating a +considerable area of the surface with any, or but partial success, the +locality is abandoned, and a new one sought. As the mines are worked +without capital, and the ore is dispersed over a wide area, the number +of localities is almost indefinite. Upwards of forty principal +sub-districts are known, most of which are appropriately denominated +<i>diggings</i>. The earliest discovery, at Mine à Burton, has been one of +the most valuable, and still continues to afford the ore. Mine à La +Motte has also proved an extensive deposit, and is still unexhausted. +New Diggings, Shibboleth, and Richwoods, are among the discoveries of +later date, which have yielded very large quantities of ore. But the +mode of mining in the diluvial soil must exhaust it of its mineral +contents, and direct miners, in after years, to the true position of the +ore, in the calcareous rock. So long as the search continues in the +soil, the business will partake of the uncertainty which now attends it, +and which renders it rather an object of temporary enterprise, than a +fixed employment.</p> + +<p>In the search for ore in the soil, scarcely any uniform principles can +be certainly relied on. Generally, rocky and barren localities are +avoided, and large and deep beds of the red metalliferous clay sought +for. The occurrence of crystallized quartz, or spars, on the surface, is +regarded only as a general indication, but cannot be depended on to +ensure local success. These masses are found to be distributed on and +through the top soil, as other debris, being sometimes contiguous to, +and sometimes remote from, ore. But they are never, so far as I have +observed, found with the ore.</p> + +<p>The method of searching for and raising the ore, is simple. Having fixed +on a spot for digging, the operator measures off about eight feet +square. A pick-axe and shovel are used for removing the earth. A +practised hand will pitch the earth from a depth of eight or ten feet. A +windlass and bucket are then placed over the pit, and the excavation +thus continued. Small detached masses of ore, or spars, are often found +in the soil, in approaching a larger body. The ore is the sulphuret, or +galena. It has a broad, glittering grain, and is readily divisible into +cubical fragments. It occurs in beds, or detached masses, which are +deposited horizontally in the soil. They are often accompanied by the +sulphate of barytes, or by calcareous spar; sometimes by blende, or iron +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>pyrites. The ore is often connected with the barytic spar, indicating +the latter to be a true matrix. The direction of these beds of ore +appears to be irregular. Veins of ore are confined to the rock.</p> + +<p>The variety of ore called <i>gravel ore</i>, differs from the preceding +chiefly by its marks of attrition, and connection with diluvial +pebble-stones. No spars have been noticed in these gravel-beds, although +it is probable that a careful search might detect them.</p> + +<p>The calcareous spar is most abundant in connection with rock diggings. +It is translucent, or transparent, and often exhibits the property of +double refraction. The miners, who employ their own conventional terms, +call this substance <i>glass tiff</i>, to distinguish it from the sulphate of +barytes, which is denominated <i>tiff</i>. Much of the radiated quartz of +this district bears the marks of diluvial action. It is not uncommon to +find masses of it, in which the angles of the crystals are quite +defaced. Veins of ore in the rock correspond generally, in their course, +I think, with the cardinal points, in the instances of their being +pursued horizontally. But they dip at various angles with the plain, or +sink perpendicularly into the rock.</p> + +<p>The horizontal position of the ore-beds in the red clay soil, may be +regarded as an evidence of its being a diluvial deposit.</p> + +<p>The metalliferous, red, marly clay, is, in fine, the most interesting +geological problem connected with the mines, and is calculated to show +us how little we know of the true eras of the diluvial deposits. After +every examination which we have been able to make, we are decidedly of +the opinion that this formation belongs to the diluvial, and not to the +alluvial era. It seems, indeed, to assert a claim to be considered, +among the western strata, as immediately succeeding the secondary. It +lies directly next to, and upon, the limestone rock. We have witnessed +the progress of an excavation on the public square of Potosi, in which +the soil was removed down to the rock, and a clean area of its surface +was exposed. There was no other stratum below it, and between the clay +and rock. And such we believe to be its general position. The radiated +quartz and pebble drift is above it, and, consequently, constitutes a +subsequent deposit. And hence it is that the numerous fragmentary masses +of the former, called <i>mineral blossom</i>, are no sure indications of the +subterraneous presence of ore. The gravel-ore and mixed diluvial gravel +is likewise a newer deposit, coinciding with the era of the primitive +and secondary boulders. No large primitive boulders, however, exist in +the mine district, if we except the angular fragments of granite, south +of St. Michael, which are, indeed, just without the lead-yielding area. +Pebbles of common quartz, granite, and greenstone, are found in the +surface soil, and are also to be observed, in accumulated masses, in the +beds of brooks. Occasionally an orbicular mass of these rocks, of the +size of a melon, is observed. It is evident, from these appearances, +that no formations of the primitive exist, towards the sources of the +Mississippi, for a great <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>distance, as it is from this direction that +diluvial action appears to have been propagated. This clay soil is free +from boulders, and is of a homogeneous texture. It partakes, in its +qualities, so largely of marl, as to operate as a manure, on being +thrown out of the pits, and, after a few years, is covered with a very +rank growth of trees, vines, &c. This is a characteristic trait of the +locality of abandoned diggings.</p> + +<p>The following is a catalogue of the mines. It comprises those of most +note, which are now worked, or have been at some former period.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 172"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="55%"> 1. Mine à Burton.</td> + <td class="tdl" width="45%">24. Tapley's Diggings.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 2. Mine à Robino.</td> + <td class="tdl">25. Lambert's Diggings.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 3. Mine à Martin.</td> + <td class="tdl">26. Old Mines.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 4. New Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">27. Mine Shibboleth.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 5. Citadel Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">28. Elliot's Mines.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 6. Perry's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">29. Belle Fontaine.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 7. Hawkins's Mine.</td> + <td class="tdl">30. Cannon's Mines.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 8. Rosebury's Mine.</td> + <td class="tdl">31. Little Diggings.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> 9. Austin's Shaft.</td> + <td class="tdl">32. Becquet's Diggings.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">10. Jones's Shaft.</td> + <td class="tdl">33. Mine Liberty.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">11. Rocky Diggings, (Prairie de Roche).</td> + <td class="tdl">34. Renault's Mines.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">12. Gravelly Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">35. Miller's Mine.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">13. Brushy-run Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">36. Mine Silvers.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">14. Stricklin's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">37. Fourche à Courtois.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">15. Bibb's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">38. Pratt's Mine, Big river.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">16. Tebault's Diggings, (Pinery).</td> + <td class="tdl">39. Lebaum's Mine, Richwoods.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">17. Mine Astraddle.</td> + <td class="tdl">40. Mine à Joe, Flat river.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">18. Masson's Diggings, or Partney's.</td> + <td class="tdl">41. Bryan's Mines, Hazel run.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">19. J. Scott's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">42. Dogget's Mine. Hazel run.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">20. T. Scott's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">43. Mine La Motte, St. Michael.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">21. Micheaux's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">44. Gray's Mine, Big river.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">22. Henry's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl">45. M'Kain's Mine, Dry creek.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">23. Moreau's Diggings.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>The most noted mines are Mine à Burton, New Diggings, Shibboleth, +Richwoods, Old Mines, and the numerous mines on the waters of the +Mineral Fork of Grand river. Mine à La Motte, Mine à Joe, and Bryan's +Mines, are east and south of the principal group of mines in Washington +county, and at a considerable distance from them. A few general remarks +may be applied to all these mines.</p> + +<p>The mines possess one general character, although there are some +peculiarities which I shall hereafter mention. The ore is found in +detached pieces and solid masses, in beds, in red clay, accompanied by +sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, blende, iron pyrites, and quartz. +The ore is of that kind called, by mineralogists, lead-glance, or +galena, and is the sulphuret of lead, of chemistry. As it is dug up or +quarried from the adhering spar, it presents a very rich appearance. It +has a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>broad, glittering grain, of a lead-gray colour, which passes into +a bluish shade. The ore is easily broken by the blow of a hammer, and +may be pounded to a fine powder, still preserving its glittering +appearance. In breaking it, it always separates in cubes. Sometimes +detached lumps of four or five pounds weight, of a cubical form, are +found imbedded in the clay. Its primitive figure of crystallization is +particularly observable after the ore has been desulphurated by heat, +which, at the same time, increases its splendor, and renders the lines +of intersection between the facets more plainly discoverable.</p> + +<p>The clay, or red earth, in which the ore is found, appears to partake +largely of marl; and a difference of quality is to be observed at the +different mines. It all, however, operates more or less as a stimulant +to vegetation, on being thrown out of the pits. Mixed with the clay are +innumerable pieces of radiated quartz, very beautiful in appearance. +This forms the first stratum, and is about fourteen inches in depth; +then succeeds a stratum of red clay, four or five feet thick, and +sparingly mixed with substances of the same kind; after this, a layer of +gravel and rounded pebbles, of a silicious character, ensues; these are +about a foot in depth, and lead-ore, in small detached lumps, is then +found. This is of the description called gravel-ore, and no spars are +found accompanying it. The greatest proportion of lead-ore is, however, +found imbedded in marly clay, accompanied by the sulphate of barytes, +and resting on limestone rock. The rock is struck at a depth of from +fifteen to twenty feet, and is a metalliferous limestone, of a +semi-crystalline structure, lying in horizontal beds. It is traversed by +veins of lead-ore. Sometimes these expand in the shape of caves, where +masses of galena occur.</p> + +<p>The most valuable substance accompanying the lead-ore, is an ore of +zinc, which is found at several of the mines. Another substance, found +with the ore in considerable quantities, is the sulphate of barytes. +This is sometimes in immediate connection with the ore, but more +frequently in contiguous masses, in the clay.</p> + +<p>The sulphate of barytes, called <i>tiff</i> by the lead-diggers here, is the +same substance called <i>cawk</i> by English miners. It is very white, +opaque, and very heavy, and may be considered as the proper matrix of +the lead-ore.</p> + +<p>There are also found considerable quantities of calcareous spar, +particularly in the caves and veins in rock. This substance is often +observed in large orbicular or irregular masses, which have the +appearance of external attrition. On breaking them, they fall into +rhombs, which are very transparent and glittering; in color, they are +either white, or honey-yellow.</p> + +<p>Pyrites are common at the mines, sometimes crystallized in regular cubes +of a beautiful brass-yellow color, and, at others, found in tabular +masses, or mixed with blende, sulphate of barytes, or calcareous spar. +Quartz is found throughout the whole mine district, both on the surface +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>of the ground, and at all depths below. It is generally in the form of +tabular pieces, whose surfaces are thickly studded over with small +pyramids of transparent rock-crystal, and present an appearance of the +utmost beauty and splendor, looking like so many diamonds set over the +surface of white stone. These crystals are frequently grouped in the +form of a hemisphere, circular, or oviform, solitary or in clusters, +forming the different varieties of mamillary and radiated quartz, and, +when met with in their pristine beauty, present a very rich and +brilliant appearance. It has acquired the popular name of <i>blossom of +lead</i>, or mineral blossom, a term perfectly significant of its supposed +affinity.</p> + +<p>The exterior stratum of red clay, with its ores and minerals, will be +best understood by comparing it to a garment thrown over the +rock-formations of the country. The search for ore has been generally +confined to these clay diggings, which are pursued, very much, with the +apparatus of common well-digging. If, on reaching the rock, no vein of +ore is discovered, the work is generally dropped.</p> + +<p>On viewing the district on a large scale, this external clay stratum +appears to have originally derived its mineral contents from veins in +the calcareous, lead-yielding rock. This metalliferous rock has +evidently, in former ages, been scooped out by rivers and streams, +forming valleys and vast diluvial plateaux, where the abraded materials +were deposited. The original subterranean veins were concealed by these +geological changes.</p> + +<p>Some of the mines exhibit traits that may be mentioned. Mine La Motte is +one of the oldest mines in the Territory, having been discovered in +1720, by the person whose name it bears. The mines are very extensive, +and a large quantity of ore is annually raised. They are situated within +two miles of St. Michael, Madison county, and on the head-waters of the +river St. François. No spars are found accompanying the ore; iron pyrite +is occasionally met with, and plumbago is found in the vicinity. The +ore, which is less brilliant, and differs in other characters from any +other in the mine tract, is at the same time more refractory; in some +instances, the greatest difficulties have been experienced in the +smelting. Hence, an idea has originated that it is combined with other +metals; but no experiments, I believe, have been made to ascertain this +point.</p> + +<p>On a visit to these mines, I observed the inside of the ash-furnace +beautifully tinged with a blue color of considerable intensity. This +furnace is built of a white sandstone, which becomes vitrified on the +surface, forming glass. We are acquainted with no substance which will +communicate a blue color to glass in fusion but cobalt; hence, it is not +unreasonable to infer that this metal is volatilized during the +smelting, and is thus brought into contact with the liquefied surface of +the stone, imparting to it the color noticed. That the ores of La Motte +contain an unusual portion of sulphur, is very probable. I draw this +inference both from its refractory nature and dull appearance. Sulphur +always renders an ore <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>refractory; for, when it is expelled by +torrefaction, the ore melts easily. Its dull aspect is not less +conclusive; for, the more an ore is roasted, and the more sulphur there +is driven off, the brighter it grows. This is evident to every smelter, +who cannot fail to observe the surprising brilliancy the ore assumes +after it has gone through the first operation in the log furnace. That +the difficulties daily experienced in smelting the La Motte ores are, +therefore, attributable to the extraordinary quantity of sulphur they +contain, is extremely probable; for, even if they were united with other +metals, with silver or with cobalt, these would not increase their +infusibility, except by the extra quantum of sulphur they brought with +them. At least, we have no facts to prove that a simple alloy does not +melt as easily as a pure metal, while there are many to show that alloys +are of the most easy fusibility.</p> + +<p>The quantity of ore raised at New Diggings has been very great, a +regular vein having been found; but they were abandoned several years +ago on account of the water, which rushed in with such rapidity, that to +remove it every morning with a common windlass and bucket was found a +work of such labor as to render the business unprofitable. The mines +were left with the most flattering veins of ore in view. The general +character of these mines is such as to justify the erection of a +steam-engine, and other works for prosecuting the business on an +extensive scale; and their revival at some future period may be +confidently looked for.</p> + +<p>Mine Renault is situated about six miles north-north-west of Mine à +Burton, in a very rocky part of the country, which affords some of the +most picturesque views of mountain scenery. The region is strongly +marked by mineral appearances, rendering it probable that other +substances of value, besides lead, may exist in that vicinity. Ores of +zinc are abundant at this mine, and a body of micaceous oxide of iron is +found in the neighborhood.</p> + +<p>Bryan's Mines are seated on Hazel run, and are among the most recent +discoveries of consequence. Near a million pounds of lead were made here +during the first year of the discovery. The mine is characterized by +yielding no heavy spar; sometimes a little calcareous spar is found, and +then adhering to the ores; a circumstance which I have nowhere else +observed. Much of the ore of these mines is found in tabular pieces, +which are sonorous in a considerable degree; the ore is brilliant, and +smelts readily, yielding the same as at Mine à Burton.</p> + +<p>Gray's Mine, situated on Big river, in the northern extremity of the +mine tract, is remarkable for a body of white clay, which was discovered +in searching for ore. In sinking several pits at this mine, a stratum of +clay of an unusual appearance was struck at the depth of from eight to +ten feet, and no ore was procured at those places; the diggings were +abandoned in consequence of the clay, which covers a considerable area +of ground on the banks of Big river. This mineral substance bears a +striking resemblance to specimens of a pyrous crucible clay.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>Elliott's Mines lie upon the Mineral Fork, and are characterized by the +abundance of pyrites, and the beauty of the calcareous spar found there. +Considerable quantities of blende were also met with, and strong +indications of the existence of copper are furnished. During the +remarkable earthquakes of 1812, a fine spring of water at the mouth of +the mines suddenly became warm and foul, and in a few days dried up +entirely, and no water has run there since. Illuminations in the +atmosphere (arising doubtless from phosphorus) are frequently observed +in this vicinity on the approach of night.</p> + +<p>At Mine à Burton, there is found adhering to the sides of the log-hearth +furnace, a grayish-white sublimated matter, of great weight, which I +take to be a sublimate of lead. It is considered as chiefly sulphur or +arsenic by the lead-smelters, and is thrown by as useless. It is found +at every furnace, and a very large quantity could be annually collected. +This induced me to undertake some experiments on the subject. I was +convinced, on reflection, that there could be no sulphur, at least no +considerable quantity of sulphur, in it, from the fact that all sulphur, +or other inflammable matter, expelled from the ore in the furnace, would +undergo immediate combustion. This is also observable in the color of +the flame while the ore is torrified. Indeed, every person conversant +with the nature of this substance must know that it cannot be otherwise. +The furnace is entirely open, and does not rise over seven or eight feet +in height; consequently, there is no opportunity for it to condense. +That the sulphuric acid is driven off, is undoubted; for, whenever +sulphur is burned, this acid is set at liberty; but it has no +opportunity for entering into a new combination within the body of a log +furnace.</p> + +<p>The idea of arsenic in the substance alluded to, is perfectly erroneous, +and has originated in an ignorance of the nature of the ores of these +mines. It is the <i>sulphuret of lead</i>, and not the <i>arseniate</i>. That +there is a small portion of silver and antimony in combination with the +ore, is probable; but they too are mineralized by sulphur. Reflecting on +this, I became convinced of the popular error, and, to ascertain the +point, made the following experiments:</p> + +<p>A. I took a lump of the sublimated matter, freed from adhering +impurities, and reduced it to the state of a fine powder by pulverizing +in an agate mortar, and trituration. Of this I mixed six parts with four +of pulverized borax, and a little charcoal, and submitted it to the +intense heat of a small chemical furnace. On removing the crucible, I +found a button of metallic lead in the bottom, weighing nearly four.</p> + +<p>B. Dissolved a quantity of the powdered sublimate in nitric acid; it +effected a ready solution, with violent effervescence. Poured on liquid +carbonate of potash until no more precipitate fell. I then collected the +precipitate, and washed away the superfluous alkali by clear water, and +dried it in the shade. The result was a very fine, and a very white +powder, of considerable weight. This was a carbonate of lead (white +lead). <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>With a quantity of the white lead thus made, I mixed linseed +oil, and painted a board. The color was of the most delicate white, and +it gave a good body. On inspecting this board several months afterwards, +I found the color inclining a little to yellowish. But perhaps it stands +as well as any white lead would, prepared from litharge, by solution in +nitric or acetic acids, and precipitation by carbonated alkali.</p> + +<p>C. Mixed eight parts of sublimate with twelve of muriate of soda, and +fused in a crucible, with a tight cover, in a high heat. Result, a +yellow, hard, heavy, vitrified mass, resembling muriate of soda and +lead.</p> + +<p>M'Kain's Mine is situated on a small stream called Dry creek, running +into Big river not far from its junction with the Maramec. The mine is +worthy of remark only on account of a body of steel-grained lead-ore +found there. This ore is found to yield less lead in smelting than the +common broad-grained ore, and, as may be inferred from its texture, +contains silver.</p> + +<p>So little has been done, of late years, in mining in the rock, that the +character of the veins must be judged of from limited facts. But there +can be no question, from what is known, that the true scene of mining +operations is the rock.</p> + +<p>Along the west banks of the Mississippi, and also in some of the +interior valleys, we observe that the metal-bearing limestone rests on +crystalline sandstone. Both preserve a horizontal position, and both are +deposited, at the distance of about seventy miles south of Potosi, upon +pre-existing formations of sienitic granite, embracing hornblende rock; +some of the latter of which is porphyritic.</p> + +<p>These primitive formations mark the geography of the country at the +sources of the St. Francis. They form alpine peaks, through which the +river forces its way. Mine à La Motte is within two miles east of this +tract. These peaks have been raised to their present position without +disturbing the horizontality of the limestones and sandstones. Hence the +conclusion of their prior elevation.</p> + +<p>At a still further southern point, and before reaching the banks of the +St. Francis at Bettis's ferry, the horizontal rocks again appear. But, +in this instance, sienitic and granitic boulders are scattered over the +southern series of the calcareous strata, showing, with equal clearness, +that the geological era of the boulder stratum was posterior to the +deposition of the horizontal strata, and that the force which scattered +the boulder stratum was from the north.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>SECTION IV.</p> + +<p class="cen">METHOD OF WORKING THE MINES.</p> + +<p>The method of raising the ores, and the processes pursued in separating +the metal, are, upon the whole, extremely simple. A pick-axe and shovel +are the only tools in use for removing the earth; and the drill, rammer, +and priming-rod, are added when it is necessary to blast. Having +determined on the spot for digging, the process commences by measuring +off a square of about eight feet, and throwing out the earth, spar, and +gravel, until the miner sinks beneath the depth he can throw the earth. +An expert hand will pitch his earth clear out of the pit from a depth of +ten, twelve, and even fifteen feet. At this depth a common windlass and +bucket are placed over the centre of the pit, and the digging continued +by drawing up the earth, spar, and ores, if any are found, in the manner +pursued in sinking a well. During his progress, the miner is notified of +his approach to a body of ore, by small detached lumps occasionally +found imbedded in the soil, within a few feet of the surface. Sometimes +lumps on the top of the ground determine on the place for digging. The +spar is also a sign by which he judges, as there is seldom a body of +spar found without lead-ore. There are also other signs by which an +experienced digger is advertised of his prospects, and encouraged to +proceed with cheerfulness in his work. These are, peculiar appearances +in the texture of the spar, and sometimes minute specks of ore scattered +through it, the changes in the color, and other qualities of the earth, +gravel, &c. If these appearances are promising, and bits of ore are +occasionally met with, he is encouraged to sink down a great depth; but +if they should fail, he is generally induced to abandon the pit, and +commence at another place.</p> + +<p>In searching for ore, the soil, the slope of the hills, spar, blossom, +trees, &c., are taken as guides, and some are obstinately attached to +these signs. Others, who have been fortunate in finding ore where these +appearances were least promising, wholly disregard them, and pay no +attention to rules. In general, there is a greater disposition to trust +to luck and chance, and stumble upon ore, than by attending to mineral +character, to be sure of success. As those who search by rules are +generally incapable of those minute remarks on the distinguishing +character and geological situation of minerals, which are necessary in +order to ensure success, it frequently happens that they meet with +disappointments. An incident of this kind is enough to perplex a man who +has not habituated himself to reasoning on the subject, and to weaken +his belief in the affinity of ores and stones. Such a man will not stop +to compare and reconcile facts, which are seemingly opposite, or to +investigate the nature of general principles.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>Hence miners exclaim on the uncertainty of finding ores by rules drawn +from the observations of science; that the strata of the earth are +irregular, and not to be depended upon like the rock formations in +Europe; and that, in fine, we have no guides by which its mineral +treasures are to be sought, and that, in so confused a soil, chance is +the best guide. Such a man is more ready to follow the mysterious +guidance of the divining-rod than the light of reason, and would be +easily persuaded that fortune is more surely the result of blind chance, +than of feasible schemes, well planned and well executed.</p> + +<p>There would be, nevertheless, some truth in the uncertainties and the +confusion complained of, were those circumstances among the observations +of scientific men. But it will be hazarding little to say, that when +such observations are made, there will be found as much regularity, +harmony, and order, in the superposition of the strata, as generally +exist. The few facts I have noticed, lead to this conclusion.</p> + +<p>Having raised a sufficient quantity of ore for smelting, the next +process consists in separating the spar, and cleaning the ore from all +extraneous matter. This is done by small picks, tapered down to such a +point that a careful hand may detach the smallest particle of adhering +spar. It is necessary that the ore should be well cleaned, as it would +otherwise prove refractory in smelting. If there be any lumps of +uncommon size, they are beaten smaller. The object is to bring the lumps +as near as may be to an uniform size, so that the heat may operate +equally in desulphurating the ore. It is desirable that the lumps should +be about the size of a man's two fists, or perhaps fifteen pounds' +weight; if too small, a difficulty and a waste is experienced in +smelting. In this state, the ore is conveyed to the primary furnace, +(see Plate I.) and piled on the logs prepared for its reception. When +the charge is put in, which may in a common way be about five thousand +pounds, it is surrounded by logs of wood, and covered over at the top, +the fire being lit up at the mouth below. A gentle warmth is created at +first, which is raised very gradually, and kept at this point for about +twelve hours, to allow the sulphur to dissipate; the heat is then +increased for the purpose of smelting the ore, and, in twelve hours +more, the operation is completed, and the lead obtained. Wood is +occasionally added as the process goes on, and there is a practical +nicety required in keeping the furnace in proper order, regulating the +draught of air, &c., so that some smelters are much more expert, and +thereby extract a greater quantity of lead from a like body of ore, than +others. This furnace is called the log furnace, and, so far as I know, +is peculiar to this country. It is of a very simple construction, +consisting of an inclined hearth, surrounded by walls on three sides, +open at top, and with an arch for the admission of air below. Upon the +whole, it appears well adapted to the present situation and +circumstances of the people. It is cheap, simple, may be built at almost +any place, and answers the purpose very well. A good furnace of this +kind may be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>built at a cost of from fifty to sixty dollars, every +expense considered; and one of the most considerable items in the sum +total is the bill of the mason, who cannot be hired, in this region, to +work for less than two dollars per day.</p> + +<p class="cen">Plate I., Figure 1. <i>A Perspective View of the Log Furnace.</i></p> + +<p>a, the front wall, 8 feet long, 7 feet in height, and 2 feet in +thickness.</p> + +<p>b b, the side walls, 8 feet long, and 2 feet thick.</p> + +<p>c, the hearth, 2 feet wide, and 8 feet in length.</p> + +<p>d d, the ledges on each side of the hearth, 10 inches in height, and 1 +foot wide. These serve to elevate the logs above the hearth, at the same +time creating a draught for the air, and passage for the lead.</p> + +<p>e, the eye of the furnace, or arch, 2 feet across at bottom, with an +arch thrown in a half circle, or a flat stone laid across at the height +of the ledges.</p> + +<p>f, the iron ladle for dipping out the melted lead.</p> + +<p>g, the iron mould. Every bar of lead cast in this, is called a <i>pig</i>.</p> + +<p>h, the hole in the ground, for the reception of the lead as it runs from +the furnace.</p> + +<p>Figure 2, is a perspective view of the furnace from the back or open +part. The same letters used in Figure 1 apply to the same parts of the +furnace in this figure.</p> + +<div style="margin-left: 35%; margin-right: 20%;"><p class="noin"> + Figure 3. <i>Ground Plan.</i><br /> + <br /> + <i>a</i>, the eye or arch in front.<br /> + <i>b b</i>, the side walls.<br /> + <i>c</i>, the hearth.<br /> + <i>d d</i>, the ledges.</p></div> + + +<div class="img"> +<a href="images/imagep178.jpg"> +<img border="0" src="images/imagep178.jpg" width="48%" alt="Log Hearth Furnace" /></a><br /> +<p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;"><i>Log Hearth Furnace<br />For Smelting Lead Ore</i></p> +</div> + +<p>The process of charging the furnace may be mentioned. Three large oak +logs, rolled in from the back side, and resting at each end on these +ledges, fill up the width of the furnace; small split logs are then set +up all around on the two sides and front; the ore is then piled on until +the furnace is full, and logs are then piled over it, beginning at the +back, and continuing over to the front, so that the ore is completely +surrounded by wood. This furnace is always built on the slope of a hill, +as represented in Plate I., Fig. 1; and the hearth is laid on an angle +of 45°, so that it falls four feet in a distance of eight. Two furnaces +of the size here described are generally built together, by which there +is a saving of the expense of one wall, and the work is rendered +stronger, one serving as a support to the other. Not only so, but the +same number of hands will keep a double-eyed furnace in blast, which are +required at a single one. It takes three hands, one to cart wood during +the day-time, and the other two to relieve each other alternately, every +twelve hours, at the furnace. When a charge is melted off, the furnace +is cooled, new <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span>logs and upright pieces put in, and the whole +operation begun anew. Twenty-four hours is the time generally allotted +for each smelting, but it often takes thirty-six; and when there is bad +wood and want of attention, it requires still longer, and indeed the +result is never so good.</p> + +<p>The ore is estimated to yield, in the large way, fifty per cent. the +first smelting. A considerable portion of what is put in, however, does +not become completely desulphurated, and is found in the bottom of the +furnace after cooling. This is chiefly the smallest lumps, which have +fallen through the apertures that burn between the logs, before they +were thoroughly roasted, and thus, getting out of the way of the heat, +lie entangled with the ashes. Some lumps, which are too large, also +escape complete desulphuration, and either remain unmelted, or else, +when the fire is raised, melt altogether into a kind of slag, and +produce little or no metallic lead. This constitutes what are called the +lead-ashes. The larger pieces, consisting of ore but partially +desulphurated, are carefully picked out from among the ashes, and added +at the next smelting in the log furnace; while the remainder is thrown +by in heaps for further examination.</p> + +<p>The lead-ashes are still rich in lead, and, when a sufficient quantity +has accumulated from repeated smeltings, it is taken off to a proper +place contrived for the purpose, and separated from the cinders, +wood-ashes, and other adhering impurities. This is done by washing the +whole in <i>buddles</i>, one set below another, in the manner of the potter, +when it is necessary to <i>search</i> his clays. The ashes, which consist of +clotted lumps of a moderate hardness, are first pounded to a gross +powder, and then introduced into the water through a sieve. The +wood-ashes and other impurities, being lighter, swim on the top, and, by +letting off the water, are thus carried away. Fresh water is added, the +ashes briskly stirred with a hoe, and the water again let off, carrying +a further portion of impurity with it. By repeating this operation +several times, the lead-ashes are brought to the required degree of +purity. Thus washed, they are carried to a furnace of a different +construction, called the ash furnace (see Plate II.), and undergo a +second smelting.</p> + + +<p class="cen">Plate II., Figure 1. <i>A Perspective View of the Ash Furnace.</i></p> + +<p><i>a</i>, the ash-pit, 2 feet wide, 6 feet long, and 20 inches in height.</p> + +<p><i>b</i>, the mouth of the fire-arch, a foot square.</p> + +<p><i>c</i>, the mouth of the flue, where the charge is put in.</p> + +<p><i>d</i>, the iron pot for the lead to flow in, when the furnace is tapped.</p> + +<p>Figure 2, is a longitudinal section through the furnace, at right angles +with the front, showing the curve of the arch, flue, &c.</p> + +<p><i>a</i>, the ash-pit.</p> + +<p><i>b</i>, the grates, 10 inches square, and 3 feet long; these are pieces of +hewn stone.</p> + +<p><i>c</i>, the mouth of the fire-arch.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span><i>d</i>, the <i>santee</i>, consisting of two stones, 3 feet long, and 3 feet 6 +inches wide, with a thickness of 6 or 7 inches. They reach from the +bottom of the ash-pit to a foot above the basin-stone, the interstice +between them being rammed full of clay, and the whole measuring 18 +inches across. (This keeps the lead, slag, &c., from running into the +fire-arch, and is an important part of the furnace, requiring +considerable skill and accuracy in the construction.)</p> + +<p><i>e</i>, the basin-stone, 4 feet square, and 1 foot thick.</p> + +<p><i>f</i>, the flue, or throat, 10 feet long, 22 inches wide, and 11 inches in +height. This must be continued a foot and a half over the mouth of the +flue, or apron, making the whole length eleven and a half feet; some +prefer the flue twelve and a half feet.</p> + +<p><i>g</i>, the mouth of the flue or apron, where the furnace is charged; this +flares from 22 inches to 3 feet, in a distance of 3 feet, (as shown in +Fig. 3.)</p> + +<p><i>h</i>, the fire-arch, 3 feet high in the centre, 18 inches high where the +arch begins to spring, and the same over the centre of the basin-stone.</p> + +<p class="cen">Figure 3. <i>Ground Plan.</i></p> + +<p>From <i>a</i> to <i>b</i>, 8 feet; from <i>b</i> to <i>c</i>, 8 feet 6 inches; from <i>a</i> to +<i>d</i>, 8 feet 6 inches; from <i>e</i> to <i>f</i>, 6 feet; from <i>e</i> to <i>g</i>, 13 feet.</p> + +<p><i>h</i>, the basin, 4 feet long, and 22 inches wide, except in the centre, +where it is 24 inches wide.</p> + +<p><i>i</i>, the flue.</p> + +<p><i>k</i>, the mouth of the flue, or apron, 3 feet at the front, and 22 inches +in the rear.</p> + +<p><i>l</i>, the santee.</p> + +<p><i>m</i>, the fire-arch, with grates at bottom. (This is 22 inches wide at +each end, 24 inches in the centre, and 5 feet long from the inside of +its mouth to the santee.)</p> + +<p><i>n</i>, the mouth of the fire-arch.</p> + +<p><i>o</i>, the iron pot for the lead to flow into, set in the curve made in +the wall for convenience of tapping.</p> + +<p><i>p</i>, the curve in the wall for drawing off the slag.</p> + +<p>Figure 4, is a perspective view of the mouth of the flue where the +furnace is charged.</p> + +<p>From <i>a</i> to <i>b</i>, 6 feet; from <i>a</i> to <i>c</i>, 5 feet; from <i>a</i> to <i>d</i>, 1 +foot.</p> + +<p><i>c</i>, the mouth of the flue, 22 inches wide, and 11 high. (This flares +out to 3 feet in the distance of 3 feet, the flue covering half of it, +so that the heat may be thrown down on the ashes.)</p> + +<div class="img"> +<a href="images/imagep180.jpg"> +<img border="0" src="images/imagep180.jpg" width="48%" alt="Ash Furnace" /></a><br /> +<p class="cen" style="margin-top: .2em;"><i>Ash Furnace<br /> +For Smelting Lead Ashes. Missouri.</i></p> +</div> + +<p>One of the principal points to be attended to in building an ash-furnace +is the elevation of the flue. It should rise 5-½ feet in 10; some +prefer 5-½ in 11. If the ascent be too steep, the ore will run down +into the basin<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> before it gets hot, which is detrimental. If the +ascent be too low, the bottom of the flue next to the basin will soon be +eaten away by the heat, and thus in a short time undermine and destroy +the furnace.</p> + +<p>The flux employed is also a matter of moment. Sand, and pulverized +flinty gravel, are mixed with the lead-ashes before smelting. The object +of this is to promote the vitrification of the slag, which would +otherwise remain stiff; the particles of revived lead would not sink +through to the bottom, but remain entangled with it, and thus be lost. +Lime is also sometimes employed for the same purpose; and indeed any +earth would operate as a flux to the scoriaceous part of the lead-ashes, +if added in a due proportion, particularly the alkaline earths. Lime and +barytes, both of which are afforded in plenty at the mines, might +therefore be advantageously employed, when no sand or easy-melting +silicious gravel could be obtained. Good fusible sands are readily +attacked and liquefied by submitting to heat with oxides of lead, +alkaline salts, or any other alkaline or metallic flux; hence their +extreme utility in glass, enamels, and all other vitrescent mixtures. +When, therefore, silicious sand can be obtained, it will be found a more +powerful flux to lead-ashes than either gravel, lime, spars, or any +other substance, if we except the fluor spar. This is probably better +adapted as a flux than even silicious sands; but it has not yet been +brought to light at the lead-mines. Perhaps the lower strata of the +earth may afford it. It is found at a lead-mine near Cave-in-Rock, on +the right bank of the Ohio river, in the State of Illinois, and, with +the exception of a little found at Northampton, Massachusetts, is the +only place where this rare, useful, and beautiful mineral, occurs in the +United States.<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> + +<p>The situation for an ash-furnace is always chosen on the declivity of a +hill, as represented in the plate. The inside work, or lining, consists +of slabs of hewn limestone, laid in clay-mortar, and backed by solid +masonry. Although a stone less adapted for furnaces could hardly be +found, yet it is made here to answer the purpose, and is an evidence of +the ingenuity of men in making a bad material answer when a good one +cannot <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>be found. No sandstone or freestone, of that refractory kind +used in glass and iron furnaces, is afforded in this vicinity; and the +smelters seem to prefer rebuilding their furnaces often, to incurring +the expense of transporting good infusible sandstones from a distance. +It is not perhaps duly considered, that a furnace built of refractory +materials, although expensive in the erection, would be sufficiently +durable to warrant that expense, and outlast several built of limestone, +which burn out every blast, and have to be rebuilt from the foundation.</p> + +<p>Limestone is a combination of the pure earth <i>lime</i> with <i>carbonic acid</i> +and <i>water</i>; it is a carbonate of lime. When subjected to a red heat, it +parts with its carbonic acid and water, and, if the operation be +continued long enough, is converted into quicklime. This effect, +therefore, takes place as well in the lead-furnace as in the limekiln, +and with this difference only—that in the former it is laid in a wall, +protected in some degree from the heat, and will not part with its +carbonic acid readily; while in the latter it is broken into +comparatively small lumps, exposed to the heat on all sides, and is +easily and readily converted into quicklime.</p> + +<p>Nevertheless, although this calcination is constantly progressing, an +ash-furnace will last from fifteen to twenty days, according to the +skill which has been displayed in its construction, and the particular +quality of the stone employed. When the stone partakes of clay +(alumina), it runs into a variety of argillaceous limestone, and is +manifestly better adapted to resist the effects of fire. Whenever the +furnace is cooled, so that the stone can attract moisture from the +atmosphere, it falls into quicklime. This change does not, however, take +place rapidly; for the burning has seldom been uniform, and the stones +have either been over-burned, or not burned enough; so that it requires +several days, and even weeks, to assume the powdery state.</p> + +<p>An ash-furnace, built of limestone, is estimated to cost a hundred +dollars. This includes every expense, and such a furnace lasts during +one blast, say fifteen or twenty days; perhaps, with great care, it will +run a month. During this time, from sixty to ninety thousand pounds of +lead ought to be made.</p> + +<p>When a furnace is completed, it requires several days to dry it, and +bring it to the proper state for smelting. About ten days are usually +spent in this. The fire is begun very moderately at first, being only +the warmth of a hot smoke, and is kept so for the first five days, by +which means the moisture of the mortar and stone is gradually expelled, +and without any danger of cracking the stone, or otherwise injuring the +furnace. It is then raised a little every day until the furnace is +brought up to a full red heat, when it is ready for the first charge of +ashes.</p> + +<p>The operation begins by shovelling a layer of ashes on the mouth of the +flue, then adding a thin layer of sand or flinty gravel as a flux, and +then more ashes; and so adding gravel and ashes alternately, until the +required quantity is shovelled up. This is suffered to lie here and grow +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>thoroughly hot before it is shoved down the flue into the basin; for, +if introduced cold, it would check the heat too suddenly, and prove +injurious in the result. When hot, the charge is shoved down the flue +with a long-handled iron hoe, and another portion of ashes and gravel +immediately shovelled on the mouth, suffered to heat, and then pushed +down as before. This operation of heating and charging is continued +until the furnace has a full charge, which may require about six hours, +and in two hours more the furnace is ready for tapping. The slag, which +is in a very fluid state on the top of the lead, is first drawn off, and +the aperture closed up with stone and mortar. The smelter then goes to +the opposite side of the furnace, and prepares for drawing off the lead +by driving a stout sharp pointed iron bar through the side of the +furnace, at a particular place contrived for this purpose. On removing +the bar, the metallic lead flows out into a large iron pot set in the +ground, and accompanied by a considerable quantity of a semi-metallic +substance, called <i>zane</i>. This is lead not perfectly revived, being +combined with some earthy particles, and oxide of lead. The zane +occupies the top of the pot, and is first ladled out into hemispherical +holes dug in the clay near by. This substance is of the consistence of +the prepared sand used by brass-founders when hot, but acquires +considerable solidity when cold. The metallic lead is then ladled into +iron moulds of about eighteen inches in length, and yielding a pig of +lead of about fifty pounds each. The quantity of zane made at each +tapping is about equal to that of metallic lead. This is afterwards +taken to the log furnace, and readily converted into lead. The lead made +at the ash-furnace is not thought to be of so pure a quality as that of +the first smelting made at the log furnace. It undoubtedly contains any +other metals that may be combined with the ore, and is therefore more +refractory. Such lead is thought to be a little harder, and some pretend +to discover a lighter color.</p> + +<p>The lead-ashes are reckoned to yield fifteen per cent. of lead (zane and +all), which, added to the first smelting, makes an average product of +sixty-five per cent. This estimate will hold good uniformly, when the +ores have been properly dressed, and the smelting well performed. Any +spar adhering to the ore, renders it refractory; blende and pyrites have +the same effect. The latter is particularly injurious, as it consists +chiefly of sulphur; a substance known to render all ores refractory.</p> + +<p>The slag created by the ash-furnace is a heavy, black, glassy substance, +well melted, and still containing a portion of lead. Some attempts have +been made to obtain a further portion of lead from it, by smelting with +charcoal in a blast-furnace; but the undertaking has not been attended +with complete success, and is not generally thought to warrant the +expense. The per centage of lead recovered from the slag is not +estimated at over ten, and, with the utmost success, cannot be reckoned +to exceed twelve.</p> + +<p>Some practical and miscellaneous observations may here be added. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>Metallic lead in the pig is now (Feb. 1819) worth $4 per cwt. at the +mines. It sells for $4 50 on the banks of the Mississippi, at St. +Genevieve and Herculaneum; for $5 50 in New Orleans; and is quoted at $6 +in Philadelphia. This is lower than has ever been known before, (except +at one period,) and a consequent depression in the mining business is +felt. There is a governmental duty of one cent per pound on all bar and +pig lead imported into the United States; but it does not amount to a +prohibition of foreign lead from our markets. Perhaps such a prohibition +might be deemed expedient. It is what the lead-smelters here call for; +and certainly the resources of this country are very ample, not only for +supplying the domestic consumption, but for exportation.</p> + +<p>Those who dig the ore do not always smelt it. The merchants are +generally the smelters, and either employ their own slaves in raising +the ore, or pay a stipulated price per cwt. to those who choose to dig. +For every hundred pounds of ore, properly cleaned, the digger receives +two dollars. He works on his own account, and runs the risk of finding +ore. It is estimated that an ordinary hand will raise a hundredweight +per day, on an average of a year together. This, however, depends much +upon luck; sometimes a vast body is fallen upon, with a few hours' +labor; at others, many weeks are spent without finding any. He who +perseveres will, however, generally succeed; and the labor bestowed upon +the most unpromising mine, is never wholly lost. The above average has +been made by those long conversant with the business, and upon a full +consideration of all risks.</p> + +<p>Custom has established a number of laws among the miners, with regard to +digging, which have a tendency to prevent disputes. Whenever a discovery +is made, the person making it is entitled to claim the ground for +twenty-five feet in every direction from his pit, giving him fifty feet +square. Other diggers are each entitled to twelve feet square, which is +just enough to sink a pit, and afford room for throwing out the earth. +Each one measures and stakes off his ground, and, though he should not +begin to work for several days afterwards, no person will intrude upon +it. On this spot he digs down, but is not allowed to run drifts +horizontally, so as to break into or undermine the pits of others. If +appearances are unpromising, or he strikes the rock, and chooses to +abandon his pit, he can go on any unoccupied ground, and, observing the +same precautions, begin anew. In such a case, the abandoned pit may be +occupied by any other person; and sometimes large bodies of ore are +found by the second occupant, by a little work, which would have richly +rewarded the labors of the first, had he persevered.</p> + +<p>In digging down from fifteen to twenty feet, the rock is generally +struck; and as the signs of ore frequently give out on coming to the +rock, many of the pits are carried no further. This rock is invariably +limestone, though there are many varieties of it, the texture varying +from very hard and compact, to soft and friable. The former is +considered by <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span>the diggers as a flinty stone; the latter is called +rotten limestone; and, from its crumbling between the fingers, and +falling into grains, there is a variety of it called sandstone. It is +all, however, a calcareous carbonate, will burn into quicklime, and, as +I find on experiment, is completely soluble in nitric acid. As no +remains or impressions of shells, animalculæ, or other traces of animal +life, are to be found in it, I conclude it to be what geologists term +metalliferous limestone; a conclusion which is strengthened by its +semi-crystalline fracture. It exhibits regular stratification, being +always found in horizontal masses. How far this formation extends, it +would be difficult to determine; but, so far as my observation goes, it +is invariably the basis on which the mineral soil at Mine à Burton, and +the numerous mines in its vicinity, reposes. It is overlaid by secondary +limestone in various places on the banks of the Mississippi, between +Cape Girardeau and St. Louis. It is also seen passing into a variety of +secondary marble, in several localities. I have seen no specimens of +this mineral, however, which can be considered as a valuable material in +sculpture.</p> + +<p>I have already mentioned the per centage of lead obtained by smelting in +the large way. I shall here add the result of an assay made on the ore. +One hundred parts of ore yielded as follows:</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 191a"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="70%">Metallic lead</td> + <td class="tdr" width="5%">82</td> + <td class="tdl" width="25%"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Sulphur driven off by torrefaction</td> + <td class="tdr">11</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Earthy matter, and further portion of sulphur, either + combined with the scoria, or driven off by heat</td> + <td class="tdrb" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 7</td> + <td class="tdl" style="vertical-align: bottom;">by estimation</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>The ore experimented upon was the common ore of Mine à Burton, (galena.) +I took a lump of the purest ore, completely freed from all sparry and +other extraneous matter, beat it into a very gross powder, and roasted +for an hour and a half in a moderate heat, with frequent stirring. On +weighing the mass, it had lost 11 of sulphur. I now beat this to a very +fine powder, and treated it with a strong flux of nitre and dry +carbonate of soda, adding some iron filings to absorb the last portions +of sulphur. The whole was enclosed in a good Hessian crucible, +previously smeared with charcoal, with a luted cover, and exposed for +twenty minutes to the high heat of a small chemical blast-furnace.</p> + +<p>The richest species of galena, of which we have any account, is that of +Durham, England. An analysis of a specimen of this ore by Dr. Thompson, +gave the following result:</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="40%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 191b"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="75%">Lead</td> + <td class="tdl" width="25%">85 13</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Sulphur</td> + <td class="tdl">13 02</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Oxide or iron</td> + <td class="tdl" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 0 5 </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">98 65</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>Many of the English, and nearly all the German ores, are, however, much +poorer. Of five several experiments made by Vauquelin on ores from +different mines in Germany, sixty-five per cent. of lead was the +richest, and all were united with uncommon portions of carbonated lime +and silex.</p> + +<p>The button of metallic lead found at the bottom of the crucible in +chemical assays, contains also the silver, and other metals, if any +should be present in the ore. So also, in smelting in the large way, the +metallic lead is always united with the other metals. When ores of lead +contain any considerable portion of silver, they assume a fine steel +grain; and the crystals, which are smaller than in common galena, +oftener affect the octahedral, than the cubical figure. They are also +harder to melt; and the lead obtained is not of so soft and malleable a +nature as that procured from the broad-grained, easy-melting ore.</p> + +<p>The proportion of silver in lead varies greatly. It is sometimes found +to yield as high as twelve per cent., and is then called argentiferous +lead-glance; but, in the poorest ores, it does not yield more than one +ounce out of three hundred. To separate the silver from the lead, a +process is pursued called the refining of lead, or cupellation. This is +effected by exposing the lead to a moderate heat in a cupel, and +removing the oxide as soon as it forms on the surface, until the whole +is calcined, leaving the silver in the bottom of the cupel. The lead in +this process is converted into litharge, the well-known substance of +commerce; and the silver is afterwards refined by a second process, in +which the last portions of lead are entirely got rid of. This process is +known at the German refineries under the name of <i>silber brennen</i>, +burning silver.</p> + +<p>The rationale of cupellation is simply this. Lead on exposure to heat, +with access of air, is covered by a thin pellicle or scum, called an +oxide; and by removing this, another is formed; and so, by continuing to +take off the oxide, the whole quantity of lead is converted into an +oxide. It is called an oxide, because it is a combination of lead with +oxygen (one of the principles of air and of water.) By this combination, +an increase of weight takes place, so that a hundred pounds of bar-lead, +converted into the state of an oxide, will weigh as much over a hundred, +as the weight of the oxygen which it has attracted from the atmosphere. +Silver, however, on being exposed to heat in the same situation, cannot +be converted into an oxide; it has no attractive power for oxygen. +Hence, when this metal is contained in a bar of lead, the lead only is +oxygenated on exposure in a cupel; whilst the silver remains unaltered, +but constantly concentrating and sinking, till the lead is all calcined. +This is known, to a practised eye, by the increased splendor assumed by +the metal.</p> + +<p>I do not think the ore of Mine à Burton contains a sufficient quantity +of silver to render the separation an object. This is to be inferred +from its mineralogical character, from the mathematical figure and size +of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>crystal, its color, splendor, &c. The territory is not, however, +it is believed, deficient in ores which are valuable for the silver they +contain. The head of White river, the Arkansas, the Maramec, and +Strawberry rivers, all afford ores of lead, the appearance of which +leads us to conclude they may yield silver in considerable quantity.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">SECTION V.</p> + +<p class="cen">ANNUAL PRODUCT, AND NUMBER OF HANDS EMPLOYED.</p> + +<p>On this head, it is very difficult to procure proper information. The +desultory manner in which the mines have been wrought, and the imperfect +method in which accounts have been kept, when kept at all, with other +circumstances, which are in some measure incidental to the operations of +mining in a new country, oppose so many obstacles in the way of +obtaining the desired information, that I find it impossible to present +a correct statement, from authentic sources, of the annual product of +the mines for any series of years. When Louisiana was first occupied by +the United States, Mine à Burton and Mine La Motte were the principal +mines wrought; but the few Americans who had emigrated into the +territory, under the Spanish government, were fully aware of the +advantages to be derived from the smelting of lead, and, united to the +emigrant population which shortly succeeded, made many new discoveries, +and the business was prosecuted with increased vigor, and to a much +greater extent. The interior parts of the country, and such as had +before been deemed dangerous on account of the Indians, were now eagerly +explored; and the fortunate discovery of several immense bodies of ore +near the surface of the ground, whereby the discoverers enriched +themselves by a few days' labor, had a tendency greatly to increase the +fame of the mines, and the number of miners. But, as generally happens +in new countries, among the number of emigrants were several desperate +adventurers, and men of the most abandoned character. Hence, the mines +soon became the scene of every disorder, depravity, and crime, and a +common rendezvous for renegadoes of all parts. It is by such persons +that many of the mines were discovered, and several of them wrought; and +it is, therefore, no subject of surprise, that, on inquiry, no accounts +of the quantity of lead made, and the number of hands employed, are to +be found.</p> + +<p>To secure the public interest, and remedy, in some degree, the +irregularities practised at the mines, a law was passed in Congress, a +few years after the cession of Louisiana, reserving all lead-mines, +salt-springs, &c., which should be discovered on the public lands, +subsequent to that period; and the Governor of the Territory was, at the +same time, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>authorized to grant leases to discoverers for three years. +The great defect of that law appears always to have been, that a +specific agent was not at the same time authorized to be appointed for +the general superintendence, inspection, and management of mines—an +office which, from its nature, can never be properly incorporated with +that of the territorial executive, and which, with every inclination, it +is presumed his other avocations would prevent him from discharging +either with usefulness to the public, or satisfaction to himself. But, +whatever be the defect of the law, certainly the advantages which the +government proposed to derive from it have not accrued. No revenue, it +is understood, has yet been realized under it, and we are now as much at +a loss how to arrive at a true statement of the mineral product of +Missouri, as if the mines had never been a subject of governmental +legislation.</p> + +<p>When a discovery of lead has been made, the miners from the neighboring +country have flocked to it, and commenced digging as usual, no one +troubling himself about a lease; and thus the provisions of the act have +been in a great measure disregarded. Men of respectability, and of +sufficient capital to carry on mining in a systematic manner, have, it +is believed, been frequently deterred from making applications for +leases, from the short period for which only they can be granted. It +would not warrant the expense of sinking shafts, erecting permanent +furnaces, galleries, and other works necessary for prosecuting the +business to advantage; for, no sooner would such works be erected, and +the mines begin to be effectually wrought, than the expiration of the +lease would throw them into the hands of some more successful applicant.</p> + +<p>But, although we have no data to form an authenticated schedule of the +annual product of the mines for any required number of years, there is +something to be obtained by collecting and comparing facts, detached and +scanty as they are. Something also is to be acquired by consulting the +books which have been kept of late years in the warehouses on the +Mississippi, where the lead is sent for exportation, and some +information is also to be gleaned from various other sources. It is from +information thus obtained that I proceed to an enumeration of the +products of the different mines, and the number of persons to whom they +furnish employment and support, satisfied, at the same time, that +although the information may not be all that could be desired, yet it is +all which, without the most extraordinary exertions, could be obtained.</p> + +<p>The amount of crude ore delivered at the furnaces of Mine Shibboleth, +during one of its most productive years (1811), was something rising of +5,000,000 of pounds. The ore of this mine is estimated to yield, in the +large way, from 60 to 70 per cent., reckoned at 62-½, which is +probably a fair average. The product of the mine in 1811 was 3,125,000 +pounds. Shibboleth is, however, one of the richest mines in the +Territory, and this is the product of one of those years in which it was +most profitably worked. It was then a new discovery, vast bodies of ore +were found near <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>the surface, and the number of miners drawn together by +the fame of its riches was uncommonly great. It has since declined, +although the ore is still constantly found; and I am informed by Colonel +Smith, the present proprietor, that the product this year (1819) will be +about one million of pounds.</p> + +<p>The number of persons employed in digging lead at Mine à Burton has been +constantly lessening for the last four or five years; and this +celebrated mine, which has been worked without interruption for more +than forty years, and is stated to have yielded as high as three +millions per annum, is manifestly in a state of decline. During the last +summer (1818), the greater part of which I resided at that place, there +were not more than thirty miners employed; and the total product of the +different pits, shafts, and diggings, composing this mine, did not +exceed half a million of pounds. Of this quantity, Messrs. Samuel Perry +& Co. were the manufacturers of about 300,000 lbs. They contemplate +realizing an increased quantity during the present year. John Rice +Jones, Esq., is also engaged in penetrating the rock in search of ore, +with the most flattering prospects, and is determined, as he informs me, +to sink through the upper stratum of limestone, and ascertain the +character of the succeeding formations. It is highly probable, reasoning +from geognostic relations, that the lower formations will prove +metalliferous, yielding both lead and copper; a discovery which would +form a new era in the history of those mines. The present mode of +promiscuous digging on the surface would then be abandoned, and people +made to see and to realize the advantages of the only system of mining +which can be permanently, uniformly, and successfully pursued, viz., by +penetrating into the bowels of the earth.</p> + +<p>Several other persons of intelligence and capital are also engaged in +mining at this place, and it is probable that the total amount of lead +manufactured at this mine during the year 1819 will fall little short of +one million of pounds.</p> + +<p>It is not to be inferred, however, that because the number of miners at +Potosi has decreased, the mines are exhausted. On the contrary, there is +reason to conclude, as already mentioned, that the principal bodies of +ore have not yet been discovered, and that it is destined to become the +seat of the most extensive and important mining operations. The ore +heretofore raised at these mines has been chiefly found in the stratum +of earth which forms the surface of that country, and is bottomed on the +limestone. This stratum consists of a stiff red clay, passing in some +places into marl, and in others partaking more of the silicious +character forming a loam, and imbedding the ores of lead, accompanied by +the various mineralogical species before mentioned. These minerals are +often of a very attractive character for cabinets.</p> + +<p>The depth of this soil is sometimes thirty feet; and in this the +diggings have been chiefly done, requiring no other machinery than is +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>used in well-digging; and the stratum of rock has generally put a stop +to the progress of the miner, although veins of ore penetrating it have +often invited him in the pursuit. But it requires different tools, +machinery, and works, for mining in rock; the process is also more +tedious and expensive, and is considered especially so by those who have +been accustomed from their youth to find bodies of ore by a few days' +digging in the earth, and who, if they should work a fortnight at one +place, and not fall upon a bed of ore, would go away quite disheartened. +The principal search has therefore been made in the sub-stratum of clay, +where large bodies of ore are sometimes found by a day's, and sometimes +by an hour's work. Hence, in the neighborhood of Potosi, the ground has +been pretty well explored, and more search and labor is required to find +it than in other and more distant places, where new mines continue +annually to be discovered. But, with the exception of Austin's shaft, +who sunk eighty feet, and the mines opened by Jones, the rock at this +mine remains unpenetrated. Austin found large quantities of ore filling +crevices in the rock, and the appearances were flattering when the last +work was done. In sinking down, a change in the rock was experienced, +passing from compact solid gray limestone, by several gradations, into a +loose granulated limestone, very friable, and easily reduced to grains. +This stone was in some instances completely disintegrated, forming a +calcareous sand; and the most compact bodies of it, on a few weeks' +exposure at the mouth of the shaft, fall into grains. These grains are, +however, wholly calcareous, and readily soluble in nitric and muriatic +acids. The portion which I submitted to experiment was taken up +completely, nor was any sediment deposited by many months' standing. On +going deeper, the rock again graduated into a compact limestone, very +hard, and of a bluish-gray color, in which were frequently found small +cavities studded over with minute pyramids of limpid quartz. These +variations in the structure of the earth and rock in that place, are +still observable by the stones, spars, and other minerals, lying around +the mouths of the mines; and, upon the whole, the appearances are such +as to justify a conclusion that the lower strata of rocks at Potosi, and +the numerous mines in its vicinity, are of a highly metalliferous +character, and such as to warrant the expenditures incident to a search.</p> + +<p>From a statement lately drawn up, and certified by the proprietors of +warehouses at Herculaneum, it appears that the total quantity of pig and +bar lead, and shot, exported from that place, from January 1, 1817, to +June 1, 1818, a period of eighteen months, was 3,194,249 pounds. +Herculaneum may be considered the depôt for the lead of Mine Shibboleth, +Richwoods, Bellefontaine, a portion of the lead of Mine à Burton and +Potosi, and a few other mines in that neighbourhood. Perhaps nearly or +quite half of the whole quantity of lead yearly smelted at the Missouri +mines, is shipped from this place. Here then is an average product of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>2,395,667 pounds per annum, for the years 1817 and 1818, from those +mines which send their lead to Herculaneum.</p> + +<p>Assuming the ground that these mines produce only half of what is +annually made at the whole number of mines, which I conclude may be a +true estimate, we shall arrive at the conclusion, that the annual +product of the Missouri mines for those years was four millions, seven +hundred and ninety-one thousand, three hundred and thirty-four pounds. +This, estimated at the present price of four cents per pound, gives us a +sum of one hundred and ninety-one thousand, six hundred and fifty-three +dollars. This is the produce of one year; and supposing the mines to +have produced the same average quantity during every year since they +have been in possession of the United States, we have a sum of three +millions, sixty-six thousand, four hundred and forty-eight dollars; +which is more than the original cost of Louisiana, as purchased from +France during the administration of President Jefferson. Let those who +have any doubts of the value of our mines, reflect upon this, and +consider that it was the product of a year when the mines were in a +manifest state of decline, and wrought wholly by individuals, with a +foreign competition to oppose, and without the benefits resulting from a +systematic organization of the mining interest.</p> + +<p>Nearly all the lead smelted at the Missouri mines is transported in +carts and wagons from the interior to St. Genevieve and Herculaneum. As +it must necessarily be deposited for storage at those places, it was +naturally expected that authentic accounts of the lead manufactured in +the Territory for many years, might be obtained on application. But in +this, I experienced some degree of disappointment. At St. Genevieve, +although a warehouse has been kept at the landing for many years, the +lead sent to town has not all been stored. From the earliest time, and +before the establishment of a warehouse by Mr. Janies, the French +inhabitants of St. Genevieve had all been more or less engaged in the +storage, purchase, and traffic of lead. Every dwelling-house thus became +a storehouse for lead, and, in these cases, no regular accounts were +kept of the quantities received or delivered. The same practice has, in +some measure, continued since, so that it is impossible to obtain, with +any precision, the amount shipped from this place. At Herculaneum, a +warehouse has been kept since the year 1816; and on application to Mr. +Elias Bates, the proprietor, he was so obliging as to allow me +permission to peruse his book of receipts, for the purpose of making +extracts. The following details embrace the receipts of lead at that +place for a period of two years and eleven months, ending May 18, 1819.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 198"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="4"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>I. <i>A Series of Receipts, from June 16, 1816, to December 31 of the same +year, being a period of six months and fourteen days.</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr" width="11%">Fol. 1.</td> + <td class="tdl" width="70%">Aggregate of receipts</td> + <td class="tdr" width="15%">52,781</td> + <td class="tdl" width="4%">lbs.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">2.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">57,097</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">3.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">55,039</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">4.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">58,892</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">5.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">50,639</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">6.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">63,787</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">7.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">55,663</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">8.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdrx">47,287</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period.</td> + <td class="tdrx">322,134</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Total.</td> + <td class="tdr">763,319</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="4">II. <i>A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1816, to 31st Dec. 1817.</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">Fol. 1.</td> + <td class="tdl">Aggregate of receipts.</td> + <td class="tdr">12,375</td> + <td class="tdl">lbs.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">2.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">51,521</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">3.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">49,023</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">4.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">60,576</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">5.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">54,242</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">6.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">47,321</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">7.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">60,956</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">8.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">51,420</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">9.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">43,774</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">10.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">42,694</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">11.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">47,958</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">12.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdrx">15,482</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">537,343</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period.</td> + <td class="tdrx">501,903</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Total</td> + <td class="tdr">1,039,246</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="4">III. <i>A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1817, to 31st Dec. 1818.</i></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">Fol. 1.</td> + <td class="tdl">Aggregate of receipts</td> + <td class="tdr">24,261</td> + <td class="tdl">lbs.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">2.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">45,981</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">3.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">31,041</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">4.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">39,424</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">5.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">34,711</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">6.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">44,266</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">7.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">31,315</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">8.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">56,442</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">9.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdrx">33,932</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">341,372</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period.</td> + <td class="tdrx" style="vertical-align: bottom;">112,203</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Total</td> + <td class="tdr">453,575</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="4"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>IV. <i>A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1818, to 18th May 1819.</i></td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr"></td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">Fol. 1.</td> + <td class="tdl">Aggregate of receipts</td> + <td class="tdr">14,764</td> + <td class="tdl">lbs.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">2.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">44,323</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr">3.</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdrx">44,628</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr">103,715</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period.</td> + <td class="tdrx">26,211</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Total</td> + <td class="tdr">129,926</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="4">RECAPITULATION.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1816</td> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdr">763,319</td> + <td class="tdl">lbs.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1817</td> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdr">1,039,246</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1818</td> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdr">453,575</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1819</td> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdrx">129,926</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Total</td> + <td class="tdr">2,386,066</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>During eighteen months of the same period, from Dec. 31st, 1816, to June +1st, 1818, there was deposited with, and shipped by, sundry other +persons in Herculaneum, as ascertained by Colonel S. Hammond and M. +Austin, Esq., 517,495 pounds of lead, together with patent shot, +manufactured by Elias Bates and Christian Wilt, to the amount of 668,350 +pounds. For the remaining part of the estimated term, (two years and +eleven months,) it is reasonable to presume that a like quantity of lead +was exported through private channels at Herculaneum, and a like +quantity of shot manufactured by Messrs. Bates and Wilt. This will make +the quantity of pig and bar lead shipped by individuals, 1,034,990 +pounds, and the quantity of patent shot manufactured, 1,356,700 pounds; +which two sums, added to the receipts of Mr. Bates's warehouse, as +detailed above, gives us an aggregate amount of 4,757,990 pounds, for +the period of two years and eleven months. St. Genevieve, as has already +been mentioned, is probably the storehouse for one-half of the mines, +and may therefore be estimated to have received and exported the same +quantity of pig and bar lead during the same period, making a total of +9,515,512 pounds, which gives an average product of more than three +million of pounds of lead per annum.</p> + +<p>It would be interesting to know in what proportion the different mines +have contributed to this amount. The above details show us their +collective importance; but we should then be enabled to estimate their +individual and comparative value. With this view, I have compiled, from +the best information, the following:</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="60%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 199"> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="4"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> ESTIMATE.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" width="48%">Mines.</td> + <td class="tdl" width="12%"> </td> + <td class="tdc" width="20%">Pounds of lead.</td> + <td class="tdc" width="20%">No. of hands</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine à Burton</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> 1,500,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 160</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine Shibboleth</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> 2,700,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 240</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine La Motte</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> 2,400,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 210</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Richwoods</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> 1,300,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 140</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Bryan's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Dogget's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> 910,100</td> + <td class="tdc"> 80</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Perry's Diggings</td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> 600,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 60</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Elliot's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Old Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> 45,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 20</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Bellefontaine</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine Astraddle</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine Liberty</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Renault's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> 450,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 40</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine Silvers</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Miller's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Cannon's Diggings</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Becquet's Diggings</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> 75,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 30</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Little Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Rocky Diggings</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Citadel Diggings</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Lambert's Mine</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> 1,160,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 130</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Austin's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Jones's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl"> }</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Gravelly Diggings</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Scott's Mine</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine à Martin</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdc"> 50,000</td> + <td class="tdc"> 20</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine à Robino</td> + <td class="tdl">}</td> + <td class="tdcx"> </td> + <td class="tdcx"> </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdc">11,180,000</td> + <td class="tdc">1,130</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>In this estimate are included all persons concerned in the operations of +mining, and who draw their support from it; wood-cutters, teamsters, and +blacksmiths, as well as those engaged in digging and smelting lead-ore, +&c. The estimate is supposed to embrace a period of three years, ending +1st June, 1819, and making an average product of 3,726,666 lbs. per +annum, which is so near the result arrived at in the preceding details, +as to induce a conclusion that it is essentially correct, and that the +mines of Missouri, taken collectively, yield this amount of pig-lead +annually.</p> + +<p>The United States acquired possession of the mines in the year 1803, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>fifteen years ago last December; and, assuming the fact that they have +annually produced this quantity, there has been smelted, under the +American government, fifty-five million pounds of lead.</p> + +<p>On the view which has now been taken of the Missouri mines, it may be +proper here to remark—</p> + +<p>1. That the ores of these mines are of the richest and purest kind, and +that they exist in such bodies as not only to supply all lead for +domestic consumption, but also, if the purposes of trade require it, are +capable of supplying large quantities for exportation.</p> + +<p>2. That although at different periods the amount of lead manufactured +has been considerable, yet this produce has been subject to perpetual +variation, and, upon the whole, has fallen, in the aggregate, far short +of the amount the mines are capable of producing. To make these mines +produce the greatest possible quantity of lead of which they are +capable, with the least possible expense, is a consideration of the +first political consequence, to which end it is desirable that the +reserved mines be disposed of, to individuals, or that the term for +which leases are granted be extended from three to fifteen years, which +will induce capitalists, who are now deterred by the illiberality of +governmental terms, to embark in mining. That there be laid a +governmental duty of two and a half cents per pound on all imported pig +and bar lead, which will exclude foreign lead from our markets, and +afford a desired relief to the domestic manufacturer. The present duty +is one cent per pound. But this does not prevent a foreign competition; +and the smelters call for, and appear to be entitled to, further +protection.</p> + +<p>3. That although the processes of mining now pursued are superior to +what they were under the Spanish government, yet there is a very +manifest want of skill, system, and economy, in the raising of ores, and +the smelting of lead. The furnaces in use are liable to several +objections. They are defective in the plan, they are constructed of +improper materials, and the workmanship is of the rudest kind. Hence, +not near the quantity of metallic lead is extracted from the ore which +it is capable, without an increase of expense, of yielding. There is a +great waste created by smelting ore in the common log furnace, in which +a considerable part of the lead is volatilized, forming the sublimated +matter which adheres in such bodies to the sides of the log furnaces, +and is thrown by as useless. This can be prevented by an improvement in +its construction. To pursue mining with profit, it is necessary to +pursue it with economy; and true economy is, to build the best of +furnaces, with the best of materials. At present the furnaces are +constructed of common limestone, which soon burns into quicklime, and +the work requires rebuilding from the foundation. Not only so, but the +frequency with which they require <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>to be renewed, begets a carelessness +in those who build them, and the work is accordingly put up in the most +ordinary and unworkmanlike manner. Instead of limestone, the furnaces +ought to be constructed of good refractory sandstone, or apyrous clay, +in the form of bricks, which will resist the action of heat for a great +length of time. Both these substances are the production of that +country, and specimens of them are now in my possession.</p> + +<p>4. From the information afforded, it has been seen that the mines are +situated in a country which affords a considerable proportion of the +richest farming-lands, producing corn, rye, wheat, tobacco, hemp, flax, +oats, &c., in the greatest abundance, and that no country is better +adapted for raising cattle, horses, hogs, and sheep. The country is well +watered, and with the purest of water; the climate is mild and pleasant, +the air dry and serene, and the region is healthy in an unusual degree. +Every facility is also afforded by its streams for erecting works for +the manufacture of white and red lead, massicot, litharge, shot, +sheet-lead, mineral yellow, and the other manufactures dependent upon +lead. The country also abounds with various useful minerals besides +lead, which are calculated to increase its wealth and importance. It is +particularly abundant in iron, zinc, manganese, sulphur, salt, coal, +chalk, and ochre.</p> + +<p>5. That a systematic organization of the mining interest would have a +tendency to promote the public welfare. To this end, there should be +appointed an officer for the inspection and superintendence of mines. He +should reside in the mine country, and report annually to the proper +governmental department on the state of the mines, improvements, &c. His +duty should consist in part of the following items, viz.:</p> + +<p><i>a.</i> To lease out public mines, and receive and account for rents.</p> + +<p><i>b.</i> To prevent the waste and destruction of wood on the public lands.</p> + +<p><i>c.</i> To see that no mines were wrought without authority.</p> + +<p><i>d.</i> To keep the government informed, periodically, of the quantity of +lead made at the different mines, and of new discoveries of lead, or any +other useful minerals; and,</p> + +<p><i>e.</i> To explore, practically, the mineralogy of the country, in order +fully to develop its mineral character and importance. Connected with +these duties, should be the collection of mineralogical specimens for a +national cabinet of natural history at Washington.</p> + +<p>The superintendent of mines should be a practical mineralogist, and such +a salary attached to the office as to induce a man of respectable +talents and scientific acquirements to accept the appointment. To allow +the manufacturers of lead every advantage consistent with the public +interest, the rent charged on mines should not exceed two and a half per +cent. on the quantity manufactured, which is equivalent to the proposed +governmental duty on imported lead, whereby the revenue would <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>not only +be kept up, but might be considerably enhanced. The foregoing details +exhibit an annual produce of 3,726,666 pounds of lead, which, it is +presumable, may be half the quantity the mines are capable of producing, +with proper management. But, estimating the lead at four cents per +pound, and taking that as the average quantity, the annual rents, at two +and a half per cent., will create a revenue of thirty-two thousand four +hundred and ninety dollars.</p> + +<p>This subject is believed to be one that commends itself to the attention +of the government, which has, from a policy early introduced, reserved +the mineral lands on the public domain. No one can view it in the light +of these facts, without perceiving the propriety and necessity of an +efficient organization of this branch of the public interest.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> The following sketch of the life of Burton is given by +Colonel Thomas H. Benton, of St. Louis, in the Enquirer of that city, +October 16, 1818:—"He is a Frenchman, from the north of France. In the +fore-part of the last century, he served in the Low Countries, under the +orders of Marshal Saxe. He was at Fontenoy when the Duke of Cumberland +was beat there by that Marshal. He was at the siege of Bergen-op-Zoom, +and assisted in the assault of that place when it was assailed by a +division of Marshal Saxe's army, under the command of Count Lowendahl. +He has also seen service upon this continent. He was at the building of +fort Chartres, on the American bottom; afterwards went to fort Du Quesne +(now Pittsburgh), and was present at Braddock's defeat. From the life of +a soldier, Burton passed to that of a hunter; and in this character, +about half a century ago, while pursuing a bear to the west of the +Mississippi, he discovered the rich lead-mines which have borne his name +ever since. His present age cannot be ascertained. He was certainly an +<i>old soldier</i> at fort Chartres, when some of the people of the present +day were little children at that place. The most moderate computation +will make him a hundred and six. He now lives in the family of Mr. +Micheaux, at the little rock ferry, three miles above St. Genevieve, and +walks to that village almost every Sunday to attend mass. He is what we +call a square-built man, of five feet eight inches high, full chest and +forehead; his sense of seeing and hearing somewhat impaired, but free +from disease, and apparently able to hold out against time for many +years to come."</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> The following is a list of the principal mines worked +under the Spanish government, with their situation: +</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="65%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 160"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="35%">Mine La Motte</td> + <td class="tdl" width="65%">Head of St. Francis river.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine à Joe</td> + <td class="tdl">On Flat river.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Mine à Burton</td> + <td class="tdl">On a branch of Mineral Fork.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Old Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">On a branch of Mineral Fork.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Renault's Mines</td> + <td class="tdl">On Mineral Fork, or Fourche Arno.</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> A law erecting the Territory of Arkansas from the southern +part of Missouri, has since passed; but its northern boundary is +extended so as to include all White river above the latitude of 36° +30'.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> The following are the principal historical epochs of +Louisiana, chronologically arranged: +</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="75%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 162"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="90%"> </td> + <td class="tdl" width="10%">A.D.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Discovered by Ferdinand de Soto, and named Florida</td> + <td class="tdl" style="vertical-align: bottom;">1539</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Visited by the French from Canada</td> + <td class="tdl">1674</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Settlement made by La Salle</td> + <td class="tdl">1683</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">A settlement made at Beloxi</td> + <td class="tdl">1699</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Granted to Crozat by Louis XIV., 14th September</td> + <td class="tdl">1712</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">New Orleans founded by the French</td> + <td class="tdl">1717</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Retroceded to the crown by Crozat</td> + <td class="tdl">1717</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Granted to the Company of the West</td> + <td class="tdl">1717</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Retroceded by the Company of the West</td> + <td class="tdl">1731</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Ceded by France to Spain</td> + <td class="tdl">1762</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">First occupied by the Spanish</td> + <td class="tdl">1769</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Ceded to the United States</td> + <td class="tdl">1803</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Taken possession of by the United States, 20th December</td> + <td class="tdl">1803</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Louisiana became a State, August</td> + <td class="tdl">1812</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Missouri Territory erected, 4th June</td> + <td class="tdl">1812</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> On this passage, Mr. Silliman remarks, "that sulphur is +not poisonous to men or animals.... The <i>carbonate</i> of barytes is +eminently poisonous; but we have never heard that the sulphate is so. +May not the licking around the furnaces expose the cattle to receive +lead, in some of its forms, minutely divided? or, if it be not active in +the metallic state, both the oxide and the carbonate, which must of +course exist around the furnaces, would be highly active and poisonous. +Is it not possible, also, that some of the natural waters of the country +may, in consequence of saline or acid impregnations, dissolve some of +the lead, and thus obtain saturnine qualities? We must allow, however, +that we are not acquainted with the existence of any natural water thus +impregnated."—<span class="smcap">Jour. Sci.</span>, Vol. III.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> I was mistaken in supposing this the only locality of the +fluate of lime in the United States. It has also been found "in +Virginia, near Woodstock or Miller's town, Shenandoah county, in small +loose masses, in the fissures of a limestone containing shells. +(Barton.)—In Maryland, on the west side of the Blue Ridge, with +sulphate of barytes. (Hayden.)—In New Jersey, near Franklin Furnace, in +Sussex county, disseminated in lamellar carbonate of lime, and +accompanied with mica and carburet of iron; also near Hamburg, in the +same county, on the turnpike to Pompton, in a vein of quartz and +feldspar. (Bruce.)—In New York, near Saratoga Springs, in limestone; it +is nearly colorless, and penetrated by pyrites.—In Vermont, at +Thetford.—In Connecticut, at Middletown, in a vein, and is accompanied +by sulphurets of lead, zinc, and iron. (Bruce.)—In Massachusetts, at +the lead-mine in Southampton, where it is imbedded in sulphate of +barytes, or granite; its colors are green, purple, &c.—In New +Hampshire, at Rosebrook's Gap, in the White Mountains, in small detached +pieces. (Gibbs.)"—<span class="smcap">Cleveland's Mineralogy.</span></p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>MINERALOGY.</h2> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">A CATALOGUE OF THE MINERALS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY.</p> + +<p>In the arrangement of this catalogue, the order introduced in Professor +Cleveland's mineralogical tables, has been chiefly observed. It is the +commencement of an investigation into the physical history, character, +and mineral resources of the West, which it will become the duty of +future observers to continue and perfect. The field is an extensive one, +and invites attention. The order and beauty that are observed in this +branch of natural history, afford as striking proofs as any of the other +departments of it, of that design which, in so remarkable a manner, +pervades the organization of the various classes of bodies, animate and +inanimate, on the surface of the globe. So far as respects mineralogy, +its species and varieties have not all been seen, in crystallized forms, +agreeably to our imperfect state of microscopical knowledge; but as far +as the species have been brought within observation, in the classes of +crystals and crystallized ores, they rival, in their colors and exact +geometrical forms, other systems of bodies.</p> + +<p>In revising the list, those specimens are dropped, respecting which +further reflection or examination has shown, either that the early +descriptions were imperfect, or that the quantity of the mineral was +deficient.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 204a"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="4">I. <span class="smcap">Alkaline and Earthy Salts.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">1. Nitrate of potash.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Nitre.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">2. Muriate of soda.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Salt.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">3. Sulphate of barytes.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Heavy spar</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">4. Carbonate of lime.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Calc. spar.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="60%"> </td> + <td class="tdl" width="5%"> </td> + <td class="tdl" width="30%"><i>a.</i> Rhombic crystals.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>b.</i> Concrete forms.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">5. Fluate of lime.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Fluor spar.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">6. Sulphate of lime.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Gypsum.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">7. Sulphate of magnesia.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Magnesia.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">8. Sulphate of alumine and potash.</td> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">Alum</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="42%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 205"> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> II. <span class="smcap">Earthy Compounds and Stones.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2"> 9. Quartz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="15%"> </td> + <td class="tdl" width="85%"><i>a.</i> Hexagonal crystals.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>b.</i> Radiated.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>c.</i> Chalcedony.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>d.</i> Agatized wood.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>e.</i> Agate.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>f.</i> Jasper.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>g.</i> Hornstone.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>h.</i> Red ferruginous quartz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>i.</i> Tabular quartz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>j.</i> Granular quartz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>k.</i> Hoary quartz.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>l.</i> Carnelian.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>m.</i> Buhrstone.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>n.</i> Opalized wood.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">10. Pumice.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">11. Mica.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">12. Feldspar.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">13. Hornblende.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">14. Greenstone porphyry.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">15. Clay.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>a.</i> Native alumine.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>b.</i> Indurated clay.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>c.</i> Reddle.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">16. Basanite.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">17. Indian pipestone.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Opwagonite.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">18. Schœrl.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">19. Novaculite.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">III. <span class="smcap">Combustibles.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">20. Sulphur.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>a.</i> Crystallized.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>b.</i> Concrete.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">21. Graphite.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">22. Coal.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>a.</i> Slaty-bituminous.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>b.</i> Wood-coal.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl">Bituminous shale.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" colspan="2">IV. <span class="smcap">Metals.</span></td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">23. Native copper.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">24. Iron.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">25. Sulphuret of iron.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">26. Iron glance.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">27. Micaceous oxide of iron.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">28. Brown oxide of iron.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">29. Ironstone.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">30. Argillaceous oxide of iron.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">31. Ochrey oxide of iron.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">32. Sulphuret of lead.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>a.</i> Common galena.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>b.</i> Specular.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>c.</i> Granular.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdl"><i>d.</i> Cobaltic.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>33. Carbonate of lead.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">34. Earthy oxide of lead.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">35. Sulphuret of zinc.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" colspan="2">36. Sulphuret of manganese.</td> + <td class="tdl"></td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">First Class.</span></p> + +<p>1. <span class="smcap">Nitre—Saltpetre.</span> This salt, in its efflorescent state, +exists extensively in the limestone caves of Missouri and Arkansas. It +also impregnates the masses of earth found in these recesses. This earth +is lixiviated with wood-ashes, which allows the nitre to take a +crystalline form. I visited a large cavern, about eighty miles +south-west of Potosi, where this salt was manufactured, and observed its +efflorescences in other caves in the Ozark range.</p> + +<p>2. <span class="smcap">Muriate of Soda.</span> About one hundred and fifty thousand +bushels of common salt are annually made from the United States' saline +on Salt river, in Illinois. It appears, from the remains of antique +broken vessels found in that locality, to have been manufactured there +by the ancient inhabitants. There is a saline, which has been profitably +worked, on Saline creek, in St. Genevieve county. Two salt springs are +worked, in a small way, in Jefferson county, Mo. The springs in Arkansas +are reported to be extensive, and rumors of rock-salt on its plains have +been rife, since the purchase of Louisiana. The hunters whom I met in +the Ozark range, invariably affirmed its existence, in crystalline solid +masses, in that quarter; from which also, it is to be recollected, De +Soto's scouts brought it, in 1542.</p> + +<p>3. <span class="smcap">Sulphate of Barytes—Heavy Spar.</span> This mineral is found, in +considerable quantities, at the principal lead-mines of Missouri, west +of the Mississippi. It presents its usual characters—it is heavy, +white, shining, opaque, and easily fractured. It is sometimes found +crested, columnar, prismatic, or in tabular crystallizations. Its +surface is frequently covered by a yellowish, ochrey earth, or +ferruginous oxide. It sometimes exists as the matrix of the sulphuret of +lead—more frequently, as one of its accompanying minerals.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">4. <span class="smcap">Carbonate of Lime.</span></p> + +<p>a. <i>Calc. Spar.</i> This form of the carbonate of lime is common in the +lead-mine regions of Missouri. At Hazel run, it constitutes, to some +extent, the gangue of the lead-ores. It is generally imbedded in lumps +in the red clay mineral soil. These lumps are round, externally; but, on +being broken, reveal a rhomboidal structure, and are beautifully +transparent.</p> + +<p>b. <i>Stalactites.</i> This form of the carbonate of lime is found in a cave +on the head-waters of Currents river, in Missouri. The stalactites are +found in concretions resembling icicles hanging from the roof, or in +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>columns reaching to the floor. The specimens are translucent. +Stalactites are also found in a very large cave (Winoca) on Findley's +fork, one of the tributaries of White river, Arkansas. They form two +large vases in this cave, which are filled with the most crystalline +water.</p> + +<p>c. <i>Stalagmite</i> (Calcareous Alabaster). The cave which has just been +mentioned on Findley's fork, affords this mineral in small, solid +globules, which strew the floor of the cave.</p> + +<p>5. <span class="smcap">Fluor Spar.</span> The elevated lands on the west banks of the +Ohio, near the picturesque shores of Cave-in-Rock, in Illinois, disclose +this mineral. It exhibits its well-known character. It is generally of a +purple, or amethystine hue, and crystallized, as its primary form, in +cubes. Externally, these crystals are dull. Its association here is with +the ores of lead, which have been extensively searched for in former +times. It is plentifully found, sometimes in large crystals, which have +an external appearance as if they had been subjected to the influence of +turbid water. It has been thus far, chiefly, explored in the diluvial +stratum.</p> + +<p>6. <span class="smcap">Gypsum.</span> Foliated masses of this mineral occur in the river +cliffs in St. Clair county, Illinois. It is found in large quantities +near the salines in Upper Arkansas. Dr. Sibley, speaking of the +formation in that vicinity, says: "It is a tract of about seventy-five +miles square, in which nature has arranged a variety of the most strange +and whimsical vagaries. It is an assemblage of beautiful meadows, +verdant ridges, and rude misshapen piles of red clay, thrown together in +the utmost apparent confusion, yet affording the most pleasing +harmonies, and presenting in every direction an endless variety of +curious and interesting objects. After winding along for a few miles on +the high ridges, you suddenly descend an almost perpendicular declivity +of rocks and clay, into a series of level and fertile meadows, watered +by some beautiful rivulets, and adorned here and there with shrubby +cotton trees, elms, and cedars. These meadows are divided by chains +formed of red clay, and huge masses of gypsum, with here and there a +pyramid of gravel. One might imagine himself surrounded by the ruins of +some ancient city, and that the plain had sunk by some convulsion of +nature more than one hundred feet below its former level; for some of +the huge columns of red clay rise to the height of two hundred feet +perpendicular, capped with rocks of gypsum, which the hand of time is +ever crumbling off, and strewing in beautiful transparent flakes, along +the declivities of the hill, glittering like so many mirrors in the +sun."</p> + +<p>7. <span class="smcap">Sulphate of Magnesia.</span> A large and curious cavern has been +discovered in the calcareous rocks at Corydon, near the seat of +government of Indiana, which is found to yield very beautiful white +crystals of this mineral. To what extent these appearances exist, is +unknown; but the cavern invites exploration.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>8. <span class="smcap">Alum.</span> Efflorescences of the sulphate of alumina exist in a +calcareous cavern in the elevated ranges of Bellevieu, in the county of +Washington, Mo. No practical use is made of it.</p> + +<p>9. <span class="smcap">Quartz.</span> This important family of mineral bodies exists, in +many of its forms, on the west banks of the Mississippi. They will be +noticed under their appropriate names.</p> + +<p>a. <i>Granular Quartz.</i> There is a very large body of this mineral about +eight miles west of St. Genevieve, near the Potosi road. It is known as +the site of a remarkable cave. The sides, roof, and floor of the cave, +consist of the most pure and white granular quartz. It is quite friable +between the fingers, and falls into a singularly transparent and +beautiful sand. Each of these grains, when examined by the microscope, +is found to be a transparent molecule of pure quartz. It possesses no +definable tint of color, is not acted upon by either nitric or muriatic +acids, and appears to be an aggregation of minute crystals of quartz. It +occurs in several caves near the road, whose sides are entirely composed +of it; and its snowy hue, and granular structure, give it the appearance +of refined sugar. It appears to me to be composed of silex nearly or +quite pure, and possesses, as I find on treatment with potash, the +property of easy fusibility. Could the necessary alkali and apyrous +clays be conveniently had at this spot, I cannot conceive a more +advantageous place for a manufactory of crystal glass.</p> + +<p>b. <i>Radiated Quartz.</i> This mineral is found in great abundance at the +Missouri lead-mines, where it bears the striking name of mineral +blossom, or blossom of lead—an opinion being entertained that it +indicates the presence or contiguity of lead-ore. Examined with care, it +is found to consist of small crystals of quartz, disposed in radii, +which resemble the petals of a flower. These crystals are superimposed +on a basis consisting of thin lines, or tabular layers, of agate. It is +found either strewn on the surface of the soil, imbedded in it, or +existing in cavities in the limestone rock.</p> + +<p>c. <i>Chalcedony.</i> This species is brought down the Mississippi or +Missouri, and deposited in small fragments along the Missouri shore. It +also constitutes the principal layers in the thin tabular, or mamillary +masses, which constitute the basis of the radiated quartz. Most +commonly, it is bluish-white, or milk-white.</p> + +<p>d. <i>Agatized Wood.</i> Fragments of this mineral are brought down the +Missouri, and deposited, in occasional pieces, along the banks of the +Mississippi.</p> + +<p>e. <i>Hornstone—Chert.</i> This substance appears to have been imbedded +extensively in the calcareous strata of the Mississippi valley; for it +is scattered, as an ingredient, in its diluvions. Frequently it is in +chips, or fragments, all of which indicate a smooth conchoidal fracture. +Sometimes it consists of parts of nodules. Sometimes it is still solidly +imbedded in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>the rock, or consolidated strata, as on the coast below +Cape Girardeau, Mo. Indeed, so far as observation goes, it characterizes +all the district of country between the western banks of the Mississippi +river, and the great prairies and sand deserts at the foot of the Rocky +mountains. Its color is generally brown, with different shades of +yellow, black, blue, or red. It appears nearly allied to flint, into +which it is sometimes seen passing. It runs also into varieties of +jasper, chalcedony, and common quartz; and the different gradations from +well-characterized hornstone, until its distinctive characters are lost +in other sub-species of quartz, may be distinctly marked. The barbs for +Indian arrows, frequently found in this region, appear to have been +chiefly made of hornstone.</p> + +<p>f. <i>Jasper.</i> This mineral also appears to have been imbedded in the +silico-calcareous rocks of the western valley; and it is found, in the +fragmentary form, on the banks of the Mississippi, and also on its +plains below the Rocky mountains. The fine yellow egg-shaped pebbles of +White river, are common jasper. Several specimens, picked up in a +desultory journey, possess striking beauty. The first is a uniform +bottle-green, very hard, and susceptible of a high polish. The second is +the fragment of a nodular mass, consisting of alternate concentric +stripes of green, brown, and yellow; the colors passing by imperceptible +shades into each other. A specimen found in Potosi consists of alternate +stripes of rose and flesh red.</p> + +<p>g. <i>Agate.</i> This mineral is picked up, in a fragmentary form, along the +banks of the Mississippi. Its original repository appears to have been +the volcanic and amygdaloidal rocks about its sources, which have been +extensively broken down by geological mutations, during ante-historical +periods. The fragments are often beautifully transparent, sometimes +zoned or striped. Sometimes they are arranged in angles, presenting the +fortification-agate. The colors are various shades of white and red, the +latter being layers of carnelian. All the pieces found in this dispersed +state are harder than the imbedded species, and are with difficulty cut +by the lapidary.</p> + +<p>h. <i>Opal.</i> A single specimen of this mineral, from the right banks of +the Ohio, near Cave-in-Rock, Illinois, is of a delicate bluish-white, +and opalesces on being held to the light. It is not acted on by acids. +This locality is remarkable as yielding galena, heavy spar, blende, +calcareous spar, fluor spar, pyrites, coal, and salt. It belongs to the +great secondary limestone formation of the Ohio valley. It is cavernous, +and yields some fossil impressions.</p> + +<p>i. <i>Red Ferruginous Quartz.</i> This occurs as one of the imbedded +materials of the diluvion of the Mississippi valley.</p> + +<p>k. <i>Rock Crystal.</i> Very perfect and beautiful crystals of this mineral +are procured near the Hot Springs of Arkansas. They consist, generally, +of six-sided prisms, terminated by six-sided pyramids. Some of these +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>are so perfectly limpid, that writing can be read, without the +slightest obscurity, through the parallel faces of the crystals.</p> + +<p>l. <i>Pseudomorphous Chalcedony.</i> Lake Pepin, Upper Mississippi. This +appears to have been formed by deposition on cubical crystals, which +have disappeared.</p> + +<p>m. <i>Tabular Quartz.</i> West bank of the Mississippi, Missouri. Of a white +color, semi-transparent. The plates are single, and the lines perfectly +parallel.</p> + +<p>n. <i>Hoary Quartz.</i> West banks of the Mississippi, Mo. The character of +hoariness appears to be imparted by very minute crystals, or concretions +of quartz, on the surface of radiated quartz.</p> + +<p>o. <i>Common Quartz.</i> This mineral is found in veins of from one to eight +or ten feet wide, in the argillaceous rock formation in the vicinity of +the Hot Springs of Washita. It is also seen, in very large detached +masses, on the south bank of White river. The character of these rocks +will not be recognized on a superficial view; for they have a gray, +time-worn appearance, and are so much covered by moss, that it was not +until I had broken off a fragment with a hammer, that I discovered them +to be white quartz. Pebbles of quartz, either white or variously colored +by iron, are common on the shores of White river, and, joined to the +purity and transparency of the waters, add greatly to the pleasure of a +voyage on that beautiful stream.</p> + +<p>p. <i>Buhrstone.</i> Raccoon creek, Indiana. This bed is noted throughout the +western country, and affords a profitable branch of manufacture. It +covers an area of from ten to fifteen acres square. Its texture is +vesicular, yet it is sufficiently compact to admit of being quarried +with advantage, and the stones are applied to the purposes of milling +with the best success.</p> + +<p>q. <i>Sedimentary Quartz—Schoolcraftite.</i> This mineral occurs three miles +from the Hot Springs of Washita. It is of a grayish-white color, +partaking a little of green, yellow, or red; translucent in an uncommon +degree, with an uneven and moderately glimmering fracture, and +susceptible of being scratched with a knife. Oil stones for the purpose +of honing knives, razors, or tools, are occasionally procured from this +place, and considerable quantities have been lately taken to New +Orleans. It gives a fine edge, and is considered equal to the Turkish +oil-stone. It appears to me, from external character and preliminary +tests, to consist almost entirely of silex, with a little oxide of iron. +Its compactness, superior softness, specific gravity, and coloring +matter, distinguish it from silicious sinter. It has been improperly +termed, heretofore, "novaculite." It contains no alumine. It sometimes +reveals partial conditions, or spots, of a degree of hardness nearly +equal to common quartz.</p> + +<p>r. <i>Carnelian.</i> Banks of the Mississippi, above the junction of the +Ohio. Traces of this mineral begin to be found, as soon as the heavy +alluvial lands are passed. It is among the finest detritus of the +minerals <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>of the quartz family, brought down from upper plains. The +fragments, in these lower positions, are small, transparent, and hard, +colored red or yellowish.</p> + +<p>s. <i>Basanite—Touchstone.</i> This mineral is found in the Mississippi +detritus; but no fixed locality has been ascertained.</p> + +<p>10. <span class="smcap">Pumice.</span> The light, vesicular substance, found floating down +the Missouri and Mississippi, is not, properly speaking, a true pumice, +capable of the applications of that article in the arts; but it cannot +be classified with any other species. It is more properly a +pseudo-pumice, arising from partial volcanic action on the formations of +some of the tributaries of the Missouri, which originate in the Rocky +mountains. It is brought down by the June flood, sometimes in large +masses, which, as the waters abate, are left on the islands or shores. +It is incompletely vitrified, consisting of spongy globules. The masses +are irregularly colored, agreeably to the vitrified materials, red, +black or brown. Its tenacity is very great.</p> + +<p>30. <span class="smcap">Mica.</span> In the granitical, or primitive district, at the +sources of the St. Francis. The great body of these rocks is a sienite, +or sienitic granite, or greenstone. Like the northern granitical tracts, +the mica is generally replaced by hornblende. The folia, usually, are +small.</p> + +<p>31. <span class="smcap">Feldspar.</span> With the preceding. The great bulk of these +granitical formations consists of red feldspar. Where the greenstone +becomes porphyritic, the feldspar is a light green.</p> + +<p>32. <span class="smcap">Hornblende.</span> With the preceding. This mineral assumes its +crystalline form, in large areas of the sienite rock. With the two +preceding minerals, mica and feldspar, and common quartz, it constitutes +the mountain peaks of that remarkable district. It is the only locality, +except the Washita hills, where these formations rise to an elevation +above the great metalliferous sandstone, and carbonaceous deposits of +the central area of the Mississippi valley, south of the Sauk rapids, +above St. Anthony's falls, and the head-waters of the St. Peter's, or +Minnesota river. The latter constitute the northern limits of the great +horizontal, sedimentary, semi-crystallized rocks west of the +Alleghanies.</p> + +<p>33. <span class="smcap">Greenstone Porphyry.</span> With the preceding.</p> + +<p>34. <span class="smcap">Puddingstone.</span> In the tongue of land formed by the junction +of the Ohio with the Mississippi, directly beneath the alluvial lands at +the old site of fort Massac, and at the village called "America." Also, +in large, broken blocks, along the west shores of the Mississippi, near +the "chalk banks," so called, in Cape Girardeau county, and at Cape +Garlic, on the west banks of the Mississippi.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>33. <span class="smcap">Native Alumine—White, friable, pure Clay.</span> At the head of +Tiawapeta bottom, Little Chain of Rocks, west banks of the Mississippi, +Cape Girardeau county, Missouri. This remarkable body of white earth is +locally denominated chalk, and was thus called in the first edition of +this catalogue. It is employed as a substitute for chalk, but is found +to contain no carbonic acid, and is destitute of a particle of calcia. +It appears, from Mr. Jessup,<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a> to be nearly pure alumine. The +traveller, on ascending the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio, +passes through a country of alluvial formation, a distance of +thirty-five miles. Here the first high land presents itself on the west +bank of the river, in a moderately elevated ridge, running from +south-east to north-west, and terminating abruptly in the bank of the +river, which here runs nearly at right angles with the ridge, and has +been worn away by the action of the water. This ridge consists of +secondary limestone, overlying a coarse reddish sandstone, which, at the +lowest stage of the water in summer, is seen in huge misshapen +fragments, at the immediate edge of the water, and at intervals nearly +half way across the river, as well as on the Illinois shore. The mineral +occurs in mass, abundantly. It is nearly dry, of a perfectly white +color, and chalky friability. It embraces masses of hornstone, +resembling flint. It also occurs at a higher point on the same shore, +two miles below the Grand Tower.</p> + +<p>34. <span class="smcap">Plastic White Clay.</span> Gray's mine, Jefferson county, Mo.</p> + +<p>35. <span class="smcap">Opwagunite<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a>—Geognostic Red Clay.</span> Prairie des Couteau, +between the sources of the St. Peter's river and the Missouri. It exists +in lamellar masses, beneath secondary masses. It is of a dull red color, +is soft, compact, easily cut, and is a material much employed and valued +by the Indians for carving pipes, and sometimes neck ornaments. +Occasionally it has brighter spots of pale red. It is also found on the +Red Cedar, or Folle Avoine branch of Chippewa river, Wisconsin, of a +darker color, approaching to that of chocolate. It is polished by the +Indians with rushes.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">III. <span class="smcap">Combustibles.</span></p> + +<p>36. <span class="smcap">Sulphur.</span> In flocculent white deposits, in a spring, +Jefferson county, Missouri.</p> + +<p>37. <span class="smcap">Mineral Coal.</span> Bituminous, slaty coal, constitutes a very +large geological basin in the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, where it +appears to have resulted from the burial of ancient forests. At +Pittsburgh, I found it composing thick strata in elevated grounds, on +the south banks of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>Monongahela river. In an excursion up that +stream, it characterizes its banks at intervals for forty miles. It +inflames easily, burns with a pitchy smoke and bituminous smell, and +throws out a great heat. It occurs in veins in limestone, along with +argillaceous slate, indurated clay, red sandstone, and bituminous shale, +which are arranged in alternate strata, one above the other, preserving +an exact parallelism with the waters of the Alleghany, Monongahela, and +Ohio rivers. The coal always constitutes a vein between the shale and +clay which are found immediately above and below it. The clay appears to +have originated from the decomposition of shale; for it may be observed +in all stages of the decomposition, from a well-characterized +argillaceous slate, to plastic clay.</p> + +<p>The veins of coal are from a foot to nine feet in thickness, and the +strata of coal, shale, limestone, &c., are repeated; so that the sides +of the hills which afford coal, exhibit several strata, with the rock +intervening, one above another. The greatest distance, in a +perpendicular direction, from one stratum to another, is perhaps one +hundred feet; and such is the regularity of the coal formation in this +region, that the description of one pit, or bed, will apply almost +equally to any other within a circuit of two hundred miles, every +section of which is characterized by coal. Sometimes pyrites of a +tin-white color are found mixed among the coal. In Missouri, it occurs +at Florrisant.</p> + +<p>38. <span class="smcap">Graphite—Plumbago.</span> Twelve miles south of Potosi, +Washington county, Mo., in a large body.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">39. <span class="smcap">Sulphuret of Lead.</span></p> + +<p>a. <i>Galena.</i> One of the most remarkable formations of this ore in +America, if not in the world, is furnished by the metalliferous +limestones of the Mississippi. Of these, Missouri furnishes one of the +most celebrated localities. These mines were first explored by the +renowned Mississippi Company, in 1719, and have continued to be worked +during the successive changes which it has experienced under the French, +Spanish, and Americans, to the present period. The number of mines now +wrought is about fifty, and the quantity of lead annually smelted is +estimated at three millions of pounds. The ore is the common galena, +with a broad glittering grain, and bluish-gray color, and is found +accompanied by sulphate of barytes, blende, pyrites, quartz, and +calcareous spar. It yields, on assay, eighty-two per cent. of metallic +lead, the remainder being chiefly sulphur. (Vide "View of the +Lead-Mines.")</p> + +<p>b. <i>Granular Sulphuret of Lead.</i> Mine La Motte, Madison county, +Missouri.</p> + +<p>c. <i>Cobaltic Sulphuret of Lead.</i> With the preceding.</p> + +<p>40. <span class="smcap">Oxide of Lead.</span> Earthy, yellow. Wythe county, Virginia.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>41. <span class="smcap">Carbonate of Lead.</span> Lead-mines of Missouri. It occurs in +some of the mines as a crust, or thin layer, on ores of galena.</p> + +<p>42. <span class="smcap">Sulphuret of Zinc.</span> In the form of black blende. Lead-mines +of Missouri.</p> + +<p>43. <span class="smcap">Oxide of Zinc.</span> Earthy, grayish-white. In the mineral called +"dry-bone." Missouri lead-mines.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">44. <span class="smcap">Iron.</span></p> + +<p>a. <i>Iron Glance.</i> In the Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob, on the sources of +the river St. Francis, Missouri. It occurs in vast masses, granular, and +sometimes specular, without iridescence. Also, on White river, Arkansas.</p> + +<p>b. <i>Micaceous Oxide of Iron.</i> Sources of the St. Francis river, +Missouri. A vein of this ore, several feet wide, is found in red +sienite, on the banks of the river St. Francis, at the Narrows, Madison +county, Missouri Territory. Its unusual appearance has for several years +attracted the attention of the inhabitants. It is situated four miles +south of the extensive lead-mines of La Motte, and in the centre of a +highly interesting geological and mineralogical section of country. The +rocks at that place are the old red granite and sienite, in mountain +masses, with veins of greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and gneiss.</p> + +<p>c. <i>Red Oxide of Iron.</i> Flint river, Tennessee.</p> + +<p>d. <i>Brown Hæmatite.</i> On the dividing ridge between Strawberry and Spring +rivers, Arkansas.</p> + +<p>e. <i>Argillaceous Oxide of Iron—Ironstone.</i> Banks of the Monongahela, +Pennsylvania.</p> + +<p>f. <i>Sulphuret of Iron.</i> Accompanying the ores and vein-stones of the +Missouri lead-mines.</p> + +<p>g. <i>Magnetic Oxide of Iron.</i> Fifteen miles below the Hot Springs, on the +Washita river, Arkansas. In quantity.</p> + +<p>45. <span class="smcap">Black Oxide of Manganese.</span> On Big Sandy river, Kentucky. +Also, on the sources of the Maramec and Spring rivers, Missouri, +accompanied by the brown oxide of iron.</p> + +<p>46. <span class="smcap">Native Copper.</span> Scattered masses of this metal have been +found on Big river, and also in a shaft sunk near Harrisonville, +Illinois. Nothing, however, is known in America, to equal the vast +quantities of this metal found in the trap veins on the banks of lake +Superior.</p> + +<p>47. <span class="smcap">Sulphate of Copper.</span> On the Washita river, fifteen miles +below the Hot Springs, Arkansas.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> Long's Expedition.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> From "opwaguu," (Algonquin) a pipe; and "lithos," (Gr.) a +stone.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2><span class="smcap">CATALOGUE OF MINERALS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, (continued.)</span></h2> + +<p class="cen"><span class="smcap">October, 1819.</span></p> + +<p class="hang"> + 1. Sulphate of lime. Arkansas.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 2. Sulphuret of lead, in quartz. Washington county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 3. Agate, from Persia. Brought by Captain Austin.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 4. Serpentine. Derby, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 5. Galena upon crystallized quartz. Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 6. Limpid quartz. Hot Springs, Arkansas.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 7. Striped agate. St. Genevieve county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 8. Sienite. Persia.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 9. Silicious breccia. Illinois.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 10. Sulphuret of lead. Shangum Mountain, Ulster county, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + 11. Garnet, in micaceous schistus. Watertown, Litchfield county, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 12. Galena, iron pyrites, &c., in quartz. Northampton, Mass.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 13. Serpentine. Derby, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 14. Red granite. River St. Francis, Madison county, Missouri Territory.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 15. Red oxide of zinc. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 16. Metalliferous limestone. Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 17. Agate. Strawberry river, Arkansas Territory.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 18. Dolomite. Stockbridge, Mass.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 19. Lamellar galena. Bryan's mines, St. Genevieve county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 20. Shell-limestone. Bermuda.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 21. Arseniate of cobalt, with nickel, in actynolite. Chatham, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 22. Galena in quartz. Shangum Mountain, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 23. Regulus of antimony.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 24. Granular argillaceous oxide of iron (pea ore). Staten Island, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 25. Olivine. Europe.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 26. Indicolite in lamellar feldspar. Chesterfield, Mass.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 27. Brucite, (Gibbs,) silicious fluate of magnesia, in transition carbonate + of lime, with graphite. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 28. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 29. Serpentine. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 30. Sulphuret of antimony, with crystals of carbonate of lime. Cornwall, + England.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 31. Chalcedony. Easthaven, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> 32. Arseniate of iron, in quartz. Connecticut.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 33. Arseniate of cobalt, with iron pyrites and copper. Ireland.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 34. Indurated talc. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 35. Primitive granular limestone. Kingsbridge, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 36. Galena in quartz. Wales.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 37. Carbonate and sulphuret of copper, with calcareous spar, in sandstone. + Schuyler's mines, Bergen county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 38. Iron pyrites (cubical). Haddam, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 39. Ferruginous oxide of manganese. Greenwich street, New York city.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 40. Green feldspar. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 41. Chert. Wales.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 42. Brown hæmatite. Salisbury, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 43. Indicolite, in lamellar feldspar. Chesterfield, Mass.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 44. Tremolite. Litchfield county, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 45. Sappare (Cyanite of Cleveland). Litchfield county, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 46. Chabasie. Deerfield, Mass.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 47. Anthracite, with quartz. Rhode Island.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 48. Fluate of lime. Derbyshire, Eng.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 49. Asbestos. Milford, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 50. Zeolite. Giants' Causeway, county of Antrim, Ireland.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 51. Hydrate of magnesia. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 52. Serpentine (verte antique). Milford, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 53. Serpentine (pure). Milford, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 54. Primitive granular limestone, equalling Carrara marble. Stockbridge, + Mass.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 55. Precious serpentine. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 56. Beryl, in granitic rock. Haddam, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 57. Sediment in the Hot Springs of Washita, Arkansas Territory.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 58. Asbestos. Milford, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 59. Talc. Staten Island, Richmond county, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 60. Graphic granite. Staten Island, Richmond county, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 61. Amethystine quartz. Easthaven, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 62. Prehinite. Hartford, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 63. Jasper. Egypt.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 64. Granite. Greenfield Hill, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 65. Fibrous carbonate of lime, resembling zeolite. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 66. Chalcedony. Easthaven, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 67. Tremolite. Litchfield, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 68. Sulphuret of antimony. Cornwall, Eng.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 69. Sulphuret of antimony, Cornwall, Eng.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 70. Agate. Corlaer's Hook, Island of New York.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 71. Sulphuret of molybdena, in granite. Bergen, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 72. Cellular mass of sandstone and quartz, with crystals of quartz. + Schuyler's mines, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 73. Crystallized carbonate of lime, with carb'te of copper. Same mines.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> 74. Micaceous oxide of iron. River St. Francis, Madison county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 75. Petrified wood. Locality unknown.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 76. Sulphate of copper (blue vitriol), with carbonate of copper, in a + ferruginous sandstone. Schuyler's mines, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 77. Carbonate of copper. Schuyler's mines, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 78. Agate. South bank of White river, Arkansas Territory.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 79. Sulphuret of lead, carbonate of copper, and yellow oxide of iron. + Schuyler's mines, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 80, 81, 82, and 83. Calcareous spar. Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 84 and 85. Sulphuret of lead, in sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 86. Argentiferous lead-glance. Mine La Motte, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 87. Specular oxide of iron, with quartz. Bellevieu, Washington county, + Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 88. Sulphuret of zinc. Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 89. Yellow mamillary quartz, incrusted with sulphate of barytes and + hæmatitic iron. Old Mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 90. Lamellar sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines of Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 91. Brown hæmatite. Staten Island, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 92. Greenstone porphyry. River St. Francis, Madison county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 93. Cubical lead-glance, with calcareous spar. Bryan's mines, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 94. Crested sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 95. Pyramidal sulphate of barytes (prism spar). Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 96. Lamellar sulphate of barytes, with galena. Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 97. Lamellar with crystals of calcareous spar. Lead-mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 98. Blende, with iron pyrites. Elliott's mines, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 99. Flint. Locality unknown.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 100. Granular sulphuret of lead. Mine La Motte, Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 101. Pumice of the Missouri river.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 102. Pseudo-volcanic product of same.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 103. Ferruginous sulphate of barytes, on radiated quartz. Lead-mines + of Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 104. Crested brown oxide of iron. Jefferson county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 105. Radiated uartz, incrusted with sulphate of barytes and iron. + Potosi, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 106. Granular lead-ore (a sulphuret). Mine La Motte, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 107. Brown oxide of iron, crystallized in octahedrons. Washington + county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 108. Mamillary quartz, on a basis of agate. River St. Francis, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 109. Radiated quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 110. Radiated quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 111, 112, 113, 114, and 115. Mamillary quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 116. Chalky clay. Cape Girardeau, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 117. Cubical pyrites, with calcareous spar. Mineral Fork, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 118. Radiated quartz, incrusted with crystallized oxide of iron. Jefferson + county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> 119. Tabular galena. Bryan's mines, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 120. Radiated quartz. Jefferson county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 121. Radiated quartz. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 122. Hoary quartz (a variety unnoticed in the books). Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 123. Galena, in heavy spar. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 124. Galena, on radiated quartz. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 125. Carbonate of lime, covered by crystals of quartz. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 126. Metalliferous limestone. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 127. Metalliferous limestone. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 128. Granite. Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 129. Radiated limpid quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 130 and 131. Sulphuret of lead. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 132. Galena, with calcareous spar. Bryan's mines, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 133 and 134. Galena, partially desulphurated by beat. Potosi.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 135. Chalcedony. St. Genevieve county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 136. Madreporite. Gallatin county, Illinois.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 137. Primitive granular limestone. Carrara, Italy.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 138. Egyptian marble.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 139. Argillaceous porphyry. France.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 140 and 141. Milford marble.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 142 and 143. Philadelphia marble.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 144. Egyptian marble.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 145. Bituminous shale.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 146. Cubical iron-ore. Jefferson county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 147. Regulus of nickel and cobalt.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 148. Tourmaline. Greensburgh, Westchester county, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 149. Graphic granite. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 150. Fibrous gypsum. Nova Scotia.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 151. Trap. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 152. Tremolite, in carbonate of lime. Somerstown, Westchester county, + New York.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 153. Asbestos in steatite, on carbonate of lime. New York.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 154. Asbestos in steatite, on carbonate of lime. New York.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 155. Lamellar pyrites. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 156. Graphite pyrites. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + 157. Pyrites, in hornblende. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 158. Brass yellow pyrites. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 159. Jaspery agate. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 160. Pyrites, with specular oxide of iron. Sussex county, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 161. Sulphate of barytes. Schooley's Mountain, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 162. Sulphate of barytes. Washington county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 163. Bitter spar. Hoboken, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 164. Arseniate of cobalt. Chatham, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 165. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 166. Granular quartz. St. Genevieve county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span> 167. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 168. Common striped jasper. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 169. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 170. Compact limestone. Herculaneum, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 171. Limestone. St. Louis, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 172. Fibrous quartz. Schuyler's mines, N. J.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 173. Quartz. Dutchess county, &c., N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 174. Sulphuret of zinc, in crystallized quartz. Ulster county, N. Y.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 175. Brown hæmatite. Salisbury, Conn.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 176. Greenstone porphyry. Madison county, Mo.</p> +<p class="hang"> + + 177. Galena. Missouri.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">SHELLS.</p> + +<div class="blocquot"> + <p class="hang"> 1. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with Voluta mercatoria[*] included.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 2. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with Voluta oliva[*] included.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 3. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with serpulæ attached and included.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 4. Murex[*] carica, with two pairs Mya[*] arenaria.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 5. Helix[*] ampullacea, with two small madrepores.[*]</p> + + <p class="hang"> 6. Helix[*] ampullacea, with seven Cypræa[*] monita—African money.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 7. Venus[*] mercenaria, with four small ones; a variety of species included.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 8. Venus[*] mercenaria, two valves, intermediate between the last named.</p> + + <p class="hang"> 9. Cardium[*] leucostomum.</p> + + <p class="hang">10. Cardium[*] edule.</p> + + <p class="hang">11. Buccinum[*] perdix, three shells.</p> + + <p class="hang">12. Murex[*] peritoideus, two shells.</p> + + <p class="hang">13. Venus[*] maculata.</p> + + <p class="hang">14. Patella[*] fornicata, six shells.</p> + + <p class="hang">15. Buccinum[*] testiculus, two shells.</p> + + <p class="hang">16. Venus[*] Paphia, two valves.</p> + + <p class="hang">17. Larva[*] of strombus gigas, six shells.</p> + + <p class="hang">18. Buccinum[+] glabratum (Ebuma of Lamarck).</p> + + <p class="hang">19 and 20. Cypræa[+] lirabica.</p> + + <p class="hang">21. C. sordida,[*] Linn. C. carneola, Lam.</p> + + <p class="hang">22. C. caput[*] serpentis. Viper's head; cowry.</p> + + <p class="hang">23. C. exanthema.[*] (False argus.)</p> + + <p class="hang">24. Buccinum[*] patulum.</p> + + <p class="hang">25. Voluta prunum.[*]</p> + +<p class="hang">26. Cypræa[*] lota, two shells.</p> + +<p class="hang"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>27. Voluta guttrata.[+]</p> + +<p class="hang">28. Bulla[*] gibbosa, seven shells.</p> + +<p class="hang">29. Ostrea[*] edulis.</p> + +<p class="hang">30. Peetsen.[*]</p> + +<p class="hang">31. Venus[*] tigerina.</p> + +<p class="hang">32. Tellina[*] radiata.</p> + +<p class="hang">33. Dentralium.[*]</p> + +<p class="hang">34. Nerita[*] mammilla.</p> + +<p class="hang">35. Bulla[*] ampulla.</p> + +<p class="hang">36. Voluta oryzy.[*] (Rice shells.)</p> + +<p class="hang">37. Voluta[*] nivea.</p> + +<p class="hang">38. Arca[*] glycymeris.</p> + +<p class="hang">39. Cerea[*] noe.</p> + +<p class="hang">40. Mytilus[*] modiolus.</p> + +<p class="hang">[* Occidental shells.]</p> + +<p class="hang">[+ Oriental shells.]</p> +</div> + +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +<br /> + +<h2>MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WEST.</h2> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">A LETTER TO CHARLES G. HAINES, ESQ., SECRETARY OF THE ASSOCIATION<br /> FOR +THE PROMOTION OF INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS AT NEW YORK.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="right"><span class="smcap">New York</span>, October 5th, 1819.</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Sir</span>: In reply to your communication of the 4th inst., I submit +the subjoined remarks on the following questions:—</p> + +<p>I. "To what extent are the lead, and other mines, worked in our western +country, either by the United States' government, or by individuals?"</p> + +<p>In the extensive region to which this inquiry has allusion, are found +numerous ores, salts, ochres, and other minerals; and the catalogue is +daily increasing, by the discovery of new substances, which promise to +become important to the commerce of the western country; but the only +mines worked are those of lead, iron, and coal.</p> + +<p>The lead-mines are situated in Missouri Territory, (formerly Upper +Louisiana,) and extend on the western bank of the Mississippi for a +distance of about one hundred miles, by forty in width, comprising the +present counties of Washington, St. Genevieve, Jefferson, and Madison. +The first lead-ore was discovered by De Lochon, La Motte, and others, +acting under the authority of the Company of the West, as early as 1720. +Since which period, the number of mines has been annually increasing by +new discoveries, under the jurisdiction which has been successively +exercised over that country by France, Spain, and the United States. The +number of mines now worked is forty-five; thirty-nine of which are in +Washington county, three in St. Genevieve, one in Madison, and two in +Jefferson. The quantity of lead annually smelted from the crude ore, I +have estimated at three million pounds; and the number of hands to whom +it furnishes employment, at eleven hundred. A considerable proportion of +these are, however, farmers, who only turn their attention to mining a +part of the year, when their farms do not require their labor; <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>the +residue are professed smelters and miners, including blacksmiths and +others, whose services are constantly required. The price of lead at the +mines is now four dollars per cwt. It is worth four dollars and fifty +cents on the banks of the Mississippi, at St. Genevieve and Herculaneum, +and is quoted at seven dollars in Philadelphia. The ore exclusively +worked is the common galena, or sulphuret of lead, with a broad +glittering grain. It is found in detached pieces and beds in red clay, +and in veins in limestone rock, accompanied by sulphate of barytes, +calcareous spar, blende, quartz, and pyrites. It melts easily, yielding, +in the large way, from sixty to seventy-five per cent. of pure metal. By +chemical analysis I procured eighty-two per cent. of metallic lead from +a specimen of common ore at Mine à Burton. The residue is chiefly +sulphur, with a little carbonate of lime and silex. It contains no +silver, or at least none which can be detected by the usual tests.</p> + +<p>All the lead smelted at these mines is transported in carts and wagons +to the banks of the Mississippi, and deposited for shipment at +Herculaneum or St. Genevieve. The different mines are situated at +various distances, from thirty to forty-five miles in the interior, and +the cost of transportation may be averaged at seventy-five cents per +cwt. In summer, when the roads are in good order, it may be procured at +fifty cents; but in the spring and fall, when the roads are cut up, it +will cost one dollar. The transportation from Herculaneum and St. +Genevieve to New Orleans, may now be procured at seventy cents per cwt. +This is less than the sum paid, previous to the introduction of +steamboats on the Mississippi and its tributary streams. Hence, it costs +more to convey a hundredweight of lead forty miles by land, in wagons +and carts, than to transport the same one thousand miles (the distance +from Herculaneum to New Orleans) by steamboats. An improvement of the +streams of the mine country, so as to render them navigable at all +seasons for keel-boats and barges, is therefore a subject of the first +moment. The Maramec river, a stream of one hundred and eighty miles in +length, and a hundred yards wide at its mouth, which enters the +Mississippi eighteen miles below St. Louis, draws its waters from the +mining counties of Washington, Jefferson, St. Genevieve, and the +unincorporated wilderness on the south-east, and the fertile counties of +Franklin and St. Louis on the north-west; and its south-eastern +tributaries meander throughout the mine tract. The principal of these +are Grand river and Mineral Fork, which are navigable in spring and fall +for keel-boats of a small size, and might, I believe, be rendered so +throughout the year, at an inconsiderable expense.</p> + +<p>The lead-mines are exclusively worked by individuals, either under the +authority of leases obtained from the United States for a limited time; +on lands which were granted by the French or Spanish, and the titles to +which have been subsequently confirmed by the United States; on +unconfirmed lands; or in violation of existing laws.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span>There are few sections of the valley of the Mississippi which are not +characterized by iron and coal. Iron-ore is abundant on the Ohio and its +tributaries, particularly on the Alleghany, Monongahela, and Muskingum. +It is worked at several foundries in the counties of Fayette, Armstrong, +and Alleghany, in Pennsylvania. The most noted furnaces are at +Brownsville, from which the extensive foundries at Pittsburgh are +chiefly supplied with pig-iron. It is also worked at Zanesville, on the +Muskingum, and on Brush creek, in Ohio; and a foundry at Cincinnati, and +another at Louisville, in Kentucky, are supplied with pig-iron from the +latter place. The ore is chiefly of that kind called the argillaceous +oxide, and produces iron which is well adapted for steam-engine +machinery, and for hollow-ware.</p> + +<p>Stone-coal, of an excellent quality, is abundant at Pittsburgh, where it +is largely consumed in iron-foundries, glass-furnaces, and other +manufactories, and also in private dwellings. The most extensive pits or +galleries are situated immediately opposite the city, on Coal Hill, +where it has been pursued into the hill eight or nine hundred yards. It +is found breaking out on the banks of the Alleghany at several places, +at and near Kittaning, where beds of it have been opened; and I have +even observed traces of it in the vicinity of Olean, near the head of +Genesee river, in the State of New York. On the Monongahela it extends +by Williamsport, Brownsville, and Greensburgh, to the vicinity of +Morgantown, in Virginia; and such is the abundance of this mineral, and +the uniformity and regularity which the geological structure of this +part of the country presents, that there is no considerable section of +it, within a circle of two hundred miles in diameter around Pittsburgh, +which does not afford beds of good inflammable coal. Pursuing the Ohio +down from Pittsburgh, it is successively worked at Wellsburg, Wheeling, +Gallipolis, and Maysville. In Illinois, on Great Muddy river, and at +Alton; in Missouri, at Florissant, and on Osage river; and in Arkansas, +on the Washita river; this valuable mineral has also been found.</p> + +<p>II. "What mines have been discovered?"</p> + +<p>V. "Where are the most valuable mines to be found in the western +country?"</p> + +<p>The reply to these inquiries has been, in part, anticipated by the +preceding details. Lead and other mines are, however, found in several +other sections of the western country. An extensive body of lead-ore is +found near Prairie du Chien, on the west bank of the Mississippi, about +five hundred miles above St. Louis. The ore is in the state of a +sulphuret, is easily reduced, and yields about sixty-two and a half per +cent. of metal. These mines are worked in an imperfect manner by the +savages, the Sacs and Foxes, the original owners of the soil; and +considerable quantities are annually brought down to St. Louis by the +north-west <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>traders. Lead-ore is also found on the river Desmoines of +the Mississippi, where it was formerly worked by the French—on the +Osage, Gasconade, and Mine river of the Missouri; on the White river and +its tributaries; on the St. Francis; and on the Arkansas, where it is +combined with a small proportion of silver. It is also found at +Cave-in-Rock, Gallatin county, Illinois, accompanied by fluor spar; at +Drennon's Lick and Millersburgh, in Kentucky; and on New river, at +Austinville, in Wythe county, Virginia. At the latter place, it has been +worked without interruption for nearly fifty years; and the mines still +continue to be wrought. The ore is galena, accompanied by the carbonate +of lead, and the earthy oxide of lead; the latter of which is worked in +the large way, as is said, to a profit.</p> + +<p>Zinc is found in Washington county, Missouri, in considerable +quantities; but only in the state of a sulphuret.</p> + +<p>Copper has been found in small masses, in a metallic state, on Great +Muddy river, and at Harrisonville, Monroe county, Illinois. A grant of +land made to P. F. Renault, in 1723, at Old Peoria, on the Illinois +river, specifies the existence of a copper-mine upon it; but the most +remarkable bodies of copper which the globe affords, are stated to exist +on the western shores of Lake Superior, and on the Upper Mississippi. It +is found in the metallic state, but accompanied also, as is said, by the +sulphuret and carbonate of copper. The ores stretch over a very +extensive region, and have been traced as low as the falls of St. +Anthony. There is, indeed, reason to believe that copper is disseminated +from the west bank of Great Muddy river, in Illinois, in a north-west +direction, to the western shore of lake Superior, as all the streams, so +far as observed, which flow either north or south at right angles with +such a line, afford traces of copper. Thus, the Kaskaskia, the Illinois +and its tributaries, the St. Peter, Wisconsin, and the southern forks of +the Wabash and Miami, all furnish specimens of copper, as well as lead, +zinc, and iron. An attempt was made by President Adams to explore the +copper-mines of the north-west; but I know not what success attended the +undertaking. Considering the certainty with which all travellers, since +the days of Carver, have spoken of the existence of these mines, with +the daily concurrent testimony of traders from that quarter, and their +great importance in a national point of view, it is matter of surprise +that they have been so long neglected. Is not the present an auspicious +time for authorizing a mission into that quarter, for the purpose of +exploring its physical geography?</p> + +<p>Iron is a mineral common to all parts of the western country. One of its +most remarkable localities is the head of the river St. Francis, in +Missouri Territory, where it extends through a considerable part of +Madison and Washington counties. The most noted body is called the Iron +Mountain, and is situated about forty miles west of the Mississippi, in +Bellevieu, Washington county. The ore is here found in immense masses, +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>and forms the southern extremity of a lofty ridge of hills, which +consists chiefly of red granite, but terminates, in a rich alluvial +plain, in a mass of solid ore. It is chiefly the micaceous oxide, +accompanied by the red oxide, and by iron-glance. It melts very easily, +producing a soft, malleable iron.</p> + +<p>Coal is not less common, and may be considered among those extensive +mineral formations which stretch, in so remarkable a manner, throughout +the vast basin included between the Alleghany and Rocky mountains. Salt +and gypsum may also be referred to the same great geological formations, +as they are to be traced, accompanying each other, from the western +section of New York, to the southern banks of the Arkansas, where +immense quantities of salt and gypsum exist. Clay, flint, ochre of +various kinds, saltpetre, alum, reddle, soapstone, plumbago, oil-stone, +marble, serpentine, &c., may be enumerated among the useful minerals of +less importance, which characterize that region.</p> + +<p>III. "To what extent and advantage do you think the mines might be +worked, under proper management and superintendence?"</p> + +<p>IV. "Are the laws of Congress, which have been passed in relation to our +lead-mines, salutary in their operation?"</p> + +<p>I have stated the amount of lead annually produced by the Missouri mines +at three millions of pounds, which, on reflection, I think is +sufficiently high. But there are numerous difficulties opposed to the +successful progress of mining in that country, by the removal of which, +the amount would be greatly augmented. Some of these difficulties arise +from the peculiar nature of the business, from a want of skill, or of +mining capital in those by whom mining operations are conducted; but by +far the greatest obstacle results from the want of a systematic +organization of the mining interest by the United States, or from +defects in existing laws on the subject.</p> + +<p>Immediately after the occupation of Louisiana by the United States, +inquiry was made into the situation and extent of the mines; and a law +was passed, reserving all mines discovered on the public lands, and +authorizing the territorial executive for the time being to lease out +such mines for a period of three years. A radical defect in this law +appears always to have been, that there was not, at the same time, +authorized the appointment of a specific agent for the general +management and superintendence of mines. Such an officer has long been +called for, not less by the public interest, than by the intelligent +inhabitants of the western country, who feel how nearly a proper +development of its mineral wealth is connected with their individual +prosperity and national independence. The superintendent should reside +in the mine country, and such a salary should be attached to the office +as to induce a man of science to accept it. His duty should be to report +annually to Congress the state of the mines, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>their produce, new +discoveries, and proposed alterations in existing laws. He should lease +out and receive rents for the public mines—prevent the destruction of +timber on mineral lands, and the working of mines without authority, and +should be charged with the investigation of the physical and +geographical mineralogy of the country. At present, the most flagrant +violations of the laws are practised—mines are worked without +leases—wood is destroyed on lands which are only valuable for the wood +and the lead-ore they contain; and the government derives but a small +revenue from those celebrated mines, which, whether we consider their +vast extent, the richness of the ore, or the quantity of metal they are +capable of annually producing, are unparalleled by any other mineral +district in the world.</p> + +<p>There is another feature in the existing law, which is not beneficial in +its operation. It is that clause restricting the terms of leases to +three years. To embark in mining operations with profit, it is necessary +to sink shafts and galleries, build engines, and erect other necessary +works, which are, in some degree, permanent in their nature, and require +much time and expense in their completion. A considerable part of the +period must, therefore, elapse before the mine can be put in a state for +working; and no sooner is that done, and it begins to afford a profit, +and promises a reward for the expense incurred, than the expiration of +the lease throws all these works into the hands of some new adventurer, +or more successful applicant. This prevents many from engaging in mining +on the public lands, and especially those who would be best able to +prosecute the business; and of the number who take leases, a great +proportion continue to pursue the desultory method of mining in +alluvial<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> ground, introduced at an early period by the French, but +which is attended with very great uncertainty.</p> + +<p>Improvements remain also to be introduced in regard to the processes of +mining, the furnaces employed, and the method of raising the ore. +Inseparable from this subject is the distribution of more enlarged +practical and scientific views of mining and minerals generally, which +might, in a great degree, be effected by the dissemination of practical +treatises on the subject, or by the employment of experienced and +skilful miners from Europe.</p> + +<p>When such improvements shall be effected, with others to which it is not +necessary here to advert—when miners are properly secured in the object +of their pursuit, either by permanent purchases from government, or by +leases for a long period of years—and when the facilities for +transportation which that country is destined to afford, by the improved +navigation of its streams, and by the introduction of turnpikes, roads, +and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>bridges, are introduced, there is reason to conclude that the +annual amount of lead produced will far surpass the proceeds of those +mines under the present arrangement, and, indeed, it is impossible to +calculate the extent to which it may be carried. It is, perhaps, a +moderate estimate to say, that they are capable of being made to yield, +by judicious management, six millions of pounds of lead per annum, and +that they will furnish employment to three thousand hands.</p> + +<p>During my late tour throughout the western country, including nearly a +year's residence in the interior of Missouri, I devoted much time to +this interesting subject, and have been enabled to collect a body of +facts on the physical resources and character of that country, and +particularly of its mines and minerals, which it is my design to lay +before the public. I must, therefore, refer you to this work, which is +now in press, for further details on this subject, and, in the mean +time, I beg your indulgent perusal of this hasty outline.</p> + +<p class="right"> +<span style="padding-right: 10em;">With respect, Sir,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 6em;">Your obedient servant,</span><br /> +<span style="padding-right: 1em;" class="smcap">Henry R. Schoolcraft.</span><br /> +</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTE:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> This word is used in its common acceptation in 1819.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>GEOGRAPHY.</h2> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">MISSOURI.</p> + +<p>When Louisiana was admitted into the Union as an independent State, all +that part of the territory situated north of 33° north latitude, and +formerly known as Upper Louisiana, was erected into a separate +territorial government, under the name of Missouri. This term is the +name of a tribe of Indians who formerly dwelt near the Missouri river. +The Territory also included those boundless plains and unexplored +countries stretching from north to south, at the foot of the Rocky +mountains, and which pass into the province of Texas on the south, and +are bounded by the western line of Louisiana on the east. In the month +of March of the present year, the southern part of Missouri Territory, +including the unincorporated regions on the west and south-west, was +erected into a separate Territory, under the name of Arkansas. The +regions to the north-west may be considered as an unincorporated +wilderness, where the authority of the United States, so far as the +Indian title has been extinguished, is maintained in detached posts and +garrisons, under the immediate government of military commandants. The +bounds of Missouri, as designated in the late law respecting that +country, are as follows: beginning on the Mississippi river, in latitude +36° north, and running due west on the latitude line to the river St. +Francis, thence up that river to 36° 30' north latitude, thence west to +a point due south of the mouth of the river Kanzas, thence north to a +point opposite the mouth of the river Desmoines, thence east to the +Mississippi river, and down the middle of that river to the place of +beginning.</p> + +<p>It embraces some of the most prominent geographical features of the +western country, and, from the meeting of such mighty streams on its +confines, and its relation to all the country situated north and west of +it, must become the key to all the commerce of those regions, and is +destined to have a commanding influence on the surrounding States, and +on the political character and mutations of that country. It is bounded +by the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>States of Illinois and Kentucky, from which it is separated by +the Mississippi river on the east and north-east, and by the Territory +of Arkansas on the south.</p> + +<p>The country west of the Mississippi differs, in some respects, from any +other section of the western country, and affords a variety in its +physical aspect which is nowhere else to be met with. A great proportion +of the lands in this Territory are of the richest kind, producing corn, +wheat, rye, oats, flax, hemp, and tobacco, in great abundance, and in +great perfection. The lands bordering on the Missouri river, as far as +the Territory extends, are rich beyond comparison. They consist of black +alluvial soil, of unknown depth, and partaking largely of the properties +of marl; and the heavy growth of forest trees by which it is covered, +indicates the strength of the soil. As you recede from the banks of the +rivers, the land rises, passing, sometimes by almost imperceptible +gradations, and sometimes very abruptly, into elevated barrens, flinty +ridges, and rocky cliffs. A portion of the Territory is, therefore, +unfit for cultivation, but still serves as the matrix of numerous ores, +which are distributed abundantly in the hills and mountains of the +interior. There is very little land of an intermediate quality. It is +either very rich or very poor; it is either bottom-land or cliff, +prairie or barren; it is a deep black marl, or a high bluff rock; and +the transition is often so sudden, as to produce scenes of the most +picturesque beauty. Hence, the traveller in the interior is often +surprised to behold, at one view, cliffs and prairies, bottoms and +barrens, naked hills, heavy forests, rocks, streams, and plains, all +succeeding each other with rapidity, and mingled with the most pleasing +harmony. I have contemplated such scenes, while standing on some lofty +bluff in the wilderness of Missouri, with unmixed delight; while the +deer, the elk, and the buffalo, were grazing quietly on the plains +below.</p> + +<p>Situated between the 36th and 40th degrees of north latitude, the +Territory enjoys a climate of remarkable serenity, and temperate warmth. +That clear blue sky, so much admired by the aborigines, is +characteristic of the country; and an atmosphere of unusual dryness, +exempts the inhabitants from those pulmonary complaints which are more +or less the consequence of a humid atmosphere. A country so situated +cannot fail to prove genial to the vegetable kingdom. It would be +difficult to point out a section of country which affords a more +interesting field for the botanist. Its prairies and barrens are covered +with a profusion of wild flowers, shrubs, and plants; and its cultivated +fields yield to the hands of the planter, a great proportion of the +useful vegetables of the earth. Corn succeeds remarkably; no country +surpasses the banks of the Missouri for the vigor of its crops. Wheat, +rye, oats, flax, and hemp, are also raised with advantage. Tobacco is an +article recently introduced, but is found to succeed well, and the lands +are said to be well adapted to its growth. Cotton is raised in the +southern part of the Territory for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>family use, but is not an +advantageous crop for market. The climate and soil are also adapted to +the growth of the sweet or Carolina potato, and to fruit-trees of +various kinds. The peach and the apple are most generally cultivated. Of +wild fruits, the woods afford abundance; among which, the grape, +persimmon, papaw, pecan, and filbert, are conspicuous. Some varieties of +the grape are delicious, and they are very common at the mines, where +the inhabitants prepare a wine from them, which has a pleasant flavor.</p> + +<p>The population of the Territory, exclusive of the aborigines, has been +stated at 46,000, the greatest proportion of whom have emigrated into it +within the last five years. They consist of people from various parts of +the United States and Europe. A large number are from Tennessee, +Kentucky, New York, and New England. The original inhabitants were +French and Spanish. There are few of the latter remaining; but the +former constitute a respectable proportion of the population.</p> + +<p>The principal towns of Missouri are St. Louis, St. Genevieve, St. +Charles, and Franklin. Of a lesser size, are Herculaneum, Potosi, New +Madrid, Cape Girardeau, Jackson, Chariton, Florissant, and Carondelet. +St. Louis is the capital of the Territory, and by far the largest town +west of Cincinnati, Ohio. It consists of about 550 houses and 5000 +inhabitants, and has two banks, three houses for public worship, a +post-office, theatre, land-office, and museum, including forty stores, +with several mills, manufactories, &c. It is eligibly situated on the +western bank of the Mississippi river, eighteen miles below the junction +of the Missouri, and, from its commanding situation, is destined to +become the emporium of the western country.</p> + +<p>Franklin, at Boon's Lick, on the Missouri, has 150 houses, is the +thoroughfare for emigrants to that quarter, and is surrounded by one of +the richest bodies of land west of the Alleghany mountains, to which +emigration is flowing with unexampled rapidity.</p> + +<p>St. Charles, situated twenty-one miles above St. Louis, on the Missouri, +is also a handsome and flourishing town. The same may be said of +Chariton, one hundred and eighty miles above, at the mouth of Chariton +river.</p> + +<p>No country in the world affords such an extent of inland navigation by +its streams, as the basin lying between the Alleghany and Rocky +mountains, whose congregated waters are carried to the ocean by those +stupendous natural canals, the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio, and +Illinois. The Mississippi river itself, in whose current all these +majestic streams unite, and are discharged into the Mexican gulf, washes +the eastern boundaries of the Territory, from the mouth of the river +Desmoines to that of the St. Francis, a distance of more than five +hundred miles. The Missouri, swelled by its great tributaries, the +Yellowstone, Little Missouri, Whitestone, La Platte, Kanzas, and Osage, +passes diagonally <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>nearly through its centre, affording on both sides a +widely-extended tract of soil transcendently rich, and bearing a +luxuriant growth of forest trees and plants, interspersed with prairie. +It is navigable, without interruption, from its junction with the +Mississippi to its falls, a distance of two thousand miles.</p> + +<p>The Ohio is a thousand miles in length from its head, at Pittsburgh, to +its junction with the Mississippi, and, in its passage, successively +washes the shores of Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, +and Illinois—shores which are covered with villages, towns, and +settlements, and lined with an industrious and hardy population.</p> + +<p>The Illinois is also a stream affording a great length of navigation, +and lands of superior quality, and has a natural connection with the +great north-western lakes, into which boats may, at certain seasons, +uninterruptedly pass.</p> + +<p>These rivers, communicating with all parts of the country by their +tributaries, afford the advantages of commercial exchange, trade, and +manufactures, to a greater extent, and a richer description of country, +than is anywhere to be found in Europe, Asia, or Africa.</p> + +<p>Of these advantages, the Territory of Missouri, occupying so commanding +a position in the geography of the country, must always partake largely, +and may, from the wealth already concentrated in its capital, St. Louis, +enjoy almost exclusively the trade of the Missouri and upper +Mississippi.</p> + +<p>The streams which originate within the lines described by the political +boundaries of the Territory, and which, either during their whole +course, or for a considerable distance, meander through it, are the +Osage, the Gasconade, Maramec, Salt river, St. Francis, and Black river. +Of a lesser magnitude are Mine river, Chariton, Currents, Fourche à +Thomas, Eleven-points, and Spring rivers; the four latter running +southerly into the Arkansas Territory, and discharging their waters into +Black river, which is itself a tributary of White river.</p> + +<p>The Osage originates in a prairie country, near the ninety-sixth degree +of west longitude, about one hundred miles north of the Arkansas, and, +after meandering in an east and north-east direction for a distance of +five hundred miles, unites with the Missouri one hundred and thirty +miles above St. Louis. In its course it is swelled by several +tributaries, the principal of which is the Little Osage, its great +south-eastern fork. This river affords, in its whole length, large +bodies of the choicest prairie-land, interspersed with woodland, and +occasionally with hills, and is navigable for moderate sized boats. Its +banks afford exhaustless beds of stone-coal, and some iron and lead is +found, while its upper forks reach into the country of the Pawnees—a +country rich in salt. The Osage Indians inhabit its banks; but a part of +their lands have been purchased by the United States. It is a very +beautiful stream, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>situated in a delightful climate; and when its +borders are opened for emigration, and its resources properly drawn +forth, will support a large population, and a profitable trade. Its +fertile soil and genial climate entitle it to the rank of one of the +first tributaries of the Missouri.</p> + +<p>In estimating the length of western rivers, there is one circumstance +which is not properly estimated by an eastern reader. It is their +serpentine course, which is so remarkable, that, in running one hundred +miles on a geographical line, they will, by their great windings, +measure at least double that distance; so that a river stated to be one +thousand miles in length by its banks, cannot be calculated to traverse +a country of more than five hundred miles in extent; indeed, I believe +that a fair average of distances would show the geographical distance to +be less.</p> + +<p>The Gasconade enters the Missouri one hundred miles above St. Louis. Its +length is about two hundred miles, and it is navigable for half that +distance. It is made up of several streams running from a ridge of high +lands, separating the waters which fall on the north into the Missouri, +from those which flow on the south into the Mississippi. Its banks +afford but a small proportion of tillable lands, being bordered with +rocks and sterile hills. The rocks are, however, cavernous, and afford +saltpetre; and the hills are covered by pine timber, which is sawed into +boards and plank. In these two articles, the commerce of this river will +always principally consist. The current is rapid, and affords by its +fall many mill-seats, so that boats and rafts may descend with ease; but +its ascent is attended with great labor. On this stream are already +situated several saw-mills.</p> + +<p>The Maramec also originates in high lands, two hundred and fifty miles +south-west of its mouth, and is separated from the waters of the +Gasconade only by a dividing ridge of land. It is swelled in its course +by a great number of streams, the most noted of which are the Little +Maramec, Bourbuse, Fourche à Courtois, Big river, and Mineral Fork. It +forms a junction with the Mississippi eighteen miles below St. Louis, +where it is two hundred yards wide. It is only navigable about fifty +miles, except in high floods in the spring and fall, when most of its +tributaries may be ascended with boats. This stream waters the country +of the mines, and interlocks, by its affluents, with the Gasconade on +the west, and the St. Francis on the south. The mines of Missouri are +situated on its southern shores.</p> + +<p>Salt river enters the Mississippi one hundred and three miles above St. +Louis, and seventy-three miles above the mouth of the Illinois. The +settlements on its banks are rapidly progressing, and the lands are +noted for their fertility.</p> + +<p>The St. Francis originates, with Big river, in broken lands in the +southern part of Washington and St. Genevieve counties, and joins the +Mississippi five hundred miles below. The most noted bodies of iron-ore +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>in the western country lie on its head, at Bellevieu. The La Motte +lead-mines also lie along the banks of one of its tributaries. It +affords, in its course, a proportion of excellent land, mixed with some +that is rocky, and bordered near its mouth with much that is swampy, +low, and overflown. A raft of trees, about two hundred and fifty miles +above its mouth, obstructs the navigation, which would otherwise be good +to within fourteen miles of St. Michael, the seat of justice for Madison +county.</p> + +<p>Black river has its origin near the heads of the Gasconade and the +Maramec, and is swelled in its course by the river Currents, Fourche à +Thomas, Eleven-points, Spring and Strawberry rivers, and forms a +junction with White river about forty miles below Poke Bayou, where the +road to Arkansas and Red river crosses it. The banks of Black river, and +of all its tributaries, afford rich alluvial land of more or less +extent; but the intervening ridges are rocky and sterile.</p> + +<p>Although there is much high land in this Territory, there is perhaps +none which, strictly speaking, is entitled to the appellation of a +mountain. A ridge of high land, called the Ozark chain, commencing on +the banks of the Maramec, near the Fourche à Courtois, extends in a +south-west direction to the banks of White river, in Arkansas Territory, +a distance of about four hundred miles, and occasionally rises into +peaks of mountain height. This ridge serves to divide the waters of the +Missouri from those of the Mississippi; the streams on one side running +south into the latter, and those on the other running north into the +former. The body of red granite found on the head of the St. Francis, +lies in mountain masses, and forms, in connection with the accompanying +rocks, some of the most rude and terrific scenery, full of interest in a +mineralogical, as well as a geological point of view.</p> + +<p>In the preceding view of the lead-mines of Missouri, and in the +catalogue of minerals subsequently introduced, I have already +anticipated much that might with propriety be given here; it may +therefore be sufficient to give a brief synopsis of both.</p> + +<p>The lead-mines in this Territory are situated about forty miles west of +the Mississippi, and sixty miles south-west of St. Louis. They occupy a +district of country between the waters of the St. Francis and the +Maramec, one hundred miles in length, by about forty in breadth. The +first lead-ore was discovered by Philip Francis Renault and M. La Motte, +acting under the authority of the Company of the West, about the year +1720; since which period, the number of mines has been greatly augmented +by new discoveries. The quantity of lead annually smelted from the crude +ore, I have estimated at three millions of pounds; and the number of +hands to whom it furnishes employment, at eleven hundred.</p> + +<p>Iron-ore is found in very large bodies in Bellevieu, Washington +county—on Fourche à Courtois, where it is accompanied by manganese—on +Big river—on Platten and Joachim creeks—and on the waters of the St. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>Francis and Black rivers. Stone-coal exists in large bodies at +Florissant, and in various places on the Osage river.</p> + +<p>On the banks of the Maramec and the Gasconade are found numerous caves, +which yield an earth impregnated largely with nitre, procured from it by +lixiviation. On the head of Currents river are also found several caves, +from which nitre is procured; the principal of which is Ashley's cave, +on Cave creek, about eighty miles south-west of Potosi. This is one of +those stupendous and extensive caverns which cannot be viewed without +exciting our wonder and astonishment, which is increased by beholding +the entire works for the manufacture of nitre, situated in its interior. +The native nitrate of potash is found in beautiful white crystals, +investing the fissures of the limestone rock, which forms the walls of +this cave; and several others in its vicinity exhibit the same +phenomenon.</p> + +<p>Of the number of inhabitants now resident in the Territory, I have +estimated eleven hundred to be engaged in mining; but the number was +much greater at a former period, one thousand men having been employed +at Mine à Burton alone. The residue of the population are farmers, +mechanics, and manufacturers, including professional men. There is also +another class of society, which I shall notice under the name of +hunters. The farming class is by far the largest, as the fertility of +the soil, and the advantage of procuring lands on easy terms, and in a +mild climate, afford the strongest and surest prospects of gain to the +emigrant. There are probably fewer mechanics than are required by the +existing population. The wages of mechanics of all kinds are very high. +A carpenter or bricklayer cannot be hired for less than two dollars per +day, and often receives more. Other mechanics are also in demand, +particularly in the new settlements; and these are increasing with such +rapidity, as to invite the emigration of skilful and industrious +artisans from all parts, with the sure prospect of success.</p> + +<p>The manufactures of the Territory, in addition to its grand staple, +lead, consist in the distillation of whiskey from rye and corn, in the +flouring of wheat, the fabrication of coarse cotton goods, and tow cloth +in private families, and of patent shot. Some white lead has been made +at St. Louis. A clothier's and fuller's works have been recently +established on Big river; and a number of tan-yards, where raw hides are +manufactured into leather, are in successful operation in various +sections of the country.</p> + +<p>Made up of emigrants from all other parts of the United States, and from +Europe, the inhabitants can hardly be said to have acquired an uniform +character. Hospitality to strangers, enterprise in business, ardor in +the pursuit of wealth, an elevated pride of country, and perseverance +under the pressure of many difficulties growing out of the infancy of +the settlements, are the most conspicuous traits in the character of the +inhabitants west of the Mississippi. They are robust, frank, and +daring. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>Taught, by the hardships and dangers incident to a frontier +settlement, to depend for security and success upon their own individual +exertions, they rely little upon extraneous help, and feel that true +independence, flowing from a conviction that their own physical +exertions are equal to every call, necessity, and emergency of life. +Observations drawn from habitual intercourse, and from witnessing their +public debates, would also lead us to conclude, that their enjoyments +arise more from those active scenes attendant upon adventures which +require corporeal exertion, than from the arts of peace, refinement, and +intellectual research.</p> + +<p>Duelling is unfortunately prevalent in Missouri; and the practice, while +it continues to receive the sanction of men occupying the first rank in +society, cannot be expected to fall into disrepute, but must, on the +contrary, continue to exert its influence over other classes of the +community, and to involve, in some measure, in its consequences, those +who from principle are opposed to it.</p> + +<p>Those scenes of riot and atrocity, however, which have been imputed to +the inhabitants of the mines by former travellers, do not now exist; the +most beneficial changes having been effected in the state of society in +that country. Emigration has added to the former population an accession +of talents and intelligence, which has served to mark the society at the +mines with much of the hospitality, decorum, and refinements of older +settlements.</p> + +<p>The first inhabitants of this part of ancient Louisiana were French and +Spanish; the former of whom still constitute a considerable proportion +of the population, but of the latter there are very few remaining. The +French language is therefore spoken, in many settlements, almost +exclusively; and many of the Americans have found it advantageous to +acquire a knowledge of that tongue.</p> + +<p>The hunter class of the population is composed of persons from various +sections of the Union, who have either embraced hunting from the love of +ease or singularity, or have fled from society to escape the severity of +the laws, and to indulge in unrestrained passion. Learning and religion +are alike disregarded, and in the existing state of society among the +Missouri hunters, we are presented with a contradiction of the theories +of philosophers of all ages; for we here behold the descendants of +enlightened Europeans in a savage state, or at least in a rapid state of +advance towards it. These hunters are chiefly located on the White, +Arkansas, and Red rivers. Their numbers may be computed at a thousand or +fifteen hundred. The late division of the Territory will throw nearly +all of them into Arkansas.</p> + +<p>The principal tribe of Indians in this Territory are the Osages, a +powerful nation residing on the Osage river. They are remarkable for +their tall stature, and their fine proportions. It is very rare to see +any of them under six feet. They inhabit a delightful country, and are +in amity with the United States. Their chiefs are hereditary, and in war +they fight on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>horseback. Their warriors are called <i>braves</i>, to which +honor no one can arrive without having previously plundered or stolen +from the enemy. Hence, plundering and stealing are acts of the greatest +merit, and demand rewards proportionate to the adroitness or extent of +the act. They are also in the habit of plundering white hunters and +travellers, but are never known to commit murders on such occasions.</p> + +<p>A part of the ancient and once powerful tribes of Shawnees and +Delawares, also inhabit this Territory. They are located on the banks of +Apple creek and Fourche à Courtois.</p> + +<p>Many of the plantations and mines are worked by slaves, and among them +are to be found blacksmiths and carpenters, whose services are extremely +valuable to their masters. The introduction of slavery into this section +of the western country, appears to have taken place at an early day, and +it has led to a state of society which is calculated to require their +continued assistance.</p> +<br /> + + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> +<p class="cen">HOT SPRINGS OF WASHITA.</p> + + +<p>The attention of the traveller in the interior of Missouri and Arkansas, +is frequently arrested by the novelty of the scenery, and the wild and +singularly fanciful aspect of the country; he is often induced to stop, +to survey some cavern, water-fall, high, loose-hanging cliff, or other +natural phenomenon. It is in this light that those natural curiosities, +the Hot Springs of Washita, will be found to reward attention.</p> + +<p>These springs, which have been known for many years, are situated on a +stream called Hot Spring creek, which falls into the Washita river eight +miles below. They lie fifty miles south of the Arkansas river, and six +miles west of the road from Cadron to Mount Prairie, on Red river.</p> + +<p>The approach to the Springs lies up the valley of the creek, which is +partly made up of its waters. On leaving the banks of the Washita, the +face of the country almost imperceptibly changes from a rich soil, +covered with a luxuriant growth of trees, to a sterile mineral tract. On +the right hand rises the Hot Mountain, with the springs issuing at its +foot; on the left, the Cold Mountain, which is little more than a +confused and mighty pile of stones; and the view in front is terminated +by a high point of land, which makes down gradually into the valley, and +separates the creek into two forks, of nearly equal size.</p> + +<p>The Hot Mountain is about three hundred feet high, rising quite steep, +presenting occasionally ledges of rocks, and terminating at top in a +confused mass of broken rocks, with here and there a pine or oak tree. +Its sides, notwithstanding their sterility and the steepness of the +ascent, are covered by a most luxuriant growth of vines, particularly +muscadine, the fruit of which is delicious.</p> + +<p>The Cold Mountain is separated from the Hot by a valley of about fifty +yards wide, through which the creek flows; it is nearly as steep as the +other, about of an equal height, and terminates in the same confused +manner. Some pine trees are found on it, but its sides are destitute of +vegetation.</p> + +<p>The springs issue near the foot of the Hot Mountain, at an elevation of +about ten feet above the level of the creek. They are very numerous all +along the hill-side, and the water, which runs in copious streams, is +quite hot. It will scald the hand, and boil an egg hard in ten minutes. +Its temperature is considered that of boiling water; but Dr. Andrews, of +Red river, tells me that it cannot be reckoned over 200° of Fahrenheit. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>There is a solitary spring, situated seventy feet higher than the +others, on the side of the mountain; but it is also of an equal +temperature, and differs in no respect from those below. Evaporation +produces a dense fog, which hangs over the springs, and upon the side of +the hill, looking at a distance like a number of furnaces in blast. It +is probably the condensation of this fog by the cold air at night, which +produces such a rank growth of vines on the side of the mountain, where, +otherwise, there would hardly exist a sign of vegetable life.</p> + +<p>An idea of the beneficial effects of this water is generally prevalent +throughout the Territory, and numbers annually resort to the springs. +They are found serviceable in rheumatisms, paralysis, pains in the +breast, and all chronic and nervous complaints. The method of using the +water is various. Bathing and sweating are generally resorted to. It is +also drunk as hot as can be borne, and is not, like ordinary warm water, +productive of nausea in the stomach. Of the chemical or medicinal +properties of the water, little is known, as no accurate analysis has +been made. The water appears clear, pure, and beautiful; it deposits a +sediment, which is sometimes red, and in other places green or yellow. +Some of the springs have a petrifying quality. The warmth of the water, +acting along the courses of the streams, has a stimulating effect on the +vegetation.</p> + +<p>There is abundance of a beautiful green moss growing in the springs, +near their edges; and their devious courses to the creek below are only +indicated by a more vigorous growth of grass and moss all along the +borders, and a brighter green.</p> + +<p>The mineralogical character of the country around the springs is highly +interesting. Three miles above is a quarry of oil-stone, of a peculiar +and valuable kind. It has a very compact texture, is heavy, translucent, +and gives a fine edge to a razor. The rock formations here are +limestone, slate, and quartz. Veins of white quartz, four or five feet +in width, are found running through the slate rock. Fine crystals of +limpid quartz are also abundant in the neighborhood. At the cove on +Washita river, fifteen miles below the springs, there is a body of +magnetic iron-ore; sulphates of copper and zinc, and sulphuret of iron, +in cubical crystals, occur in the same locality.</p> + +<p>These springs, geologically, exist in a primitive formation, which may +be considered the southern termination of the Ozark chain. Ancient +volcanic forces have raised the beds of slate, sienite, and greenstone, +of the chain, to their present elevations. The waters owe their heat to +these long-extinguished, but deep-slumbering fires, which may hereafter +break out into new activity.</p> +<br /> + + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> +<p class="cen">UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER</p> + + +<p>In order duly to estimate the magnitude, position, character, and +importance of any of our great western rivers, it is necessary to +consider the relation they bear to each other, and to the surrounding +country. A mere topographical description of an isolated section of +country—a mountain, a stream, or a mine—may possess its value; but +without a survey, however cursory, of the contiguous regions, it must +lose much of its interest to the general reader, and much of its utility +to the geographical student. It will be necessary, therefore, to cast a +glance at the extensive country in which this river lies, before its +individual consideration can be profitably commenced.</p> + +<p>In looking on the map of ancient Louisiana, the most striking physical +trait presented is the Rocky mountains, extending from Mexico into the +unexplored regions north and west of lake Superior, with the del Norte, +Red river, Arkansas, Kanzas, La Platte, and Yellowstone, all issuing +from its sides near the same point, and uniting (with the exception of +the former) at different points in the vast basin below, with the +Missouri, the Ohio, and the Mississippi, in whose congregated floods +they roll on to the Mexican gulf. Other streams traverse the country; +but these are the principal rivers of Louisiana, whose heads rest on the +Rocky mountains. Immediately at the foot of these mountains commence the +almost interminable plains of sand, or Kanzian desert, stretching from +north to south for more than a thousand miles, and with an average +breadth of six hundred. To this succeed the highlands and mountains of +the present Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, which preserve a +pretty exact parallelism, from north to south, with the Rocky mountain +chain, and give rise to several rivers of secondary magnitude. This +again is bounded by the alluvial tract of the Mississippi, being the +third grand parallel division presented by the surface of the soil. +Through these, the Red river and the Arkansas hold their unaltered +course, and reach the Mississippi without a fall; while the Kanzas, the +La Platte, and the Yellowstone, bending northward, reach the Missouri, +without meeting any mountains to oppose their progress. The rivers of +secondary magnitude, whose origin is east of the highlands bordering the +western desert, are the Teche, Vermillion, Tensaw, Washita, Little +Missouri, Courtableau, Bœuf, Little Red, Grand, White, Black, Osage, +Maramec, Gasconade, and St. Francis rivers. Of these, White river, a +stream hitherto almost wholly unknown, or only <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>known to hunters, and +which has not received its deserved rank on any existing map, is one of +the most considerable. It was therefore with surprise that I found, on +travelling into those remote regions, so considerable a stream unnoticed +by geographers, or only noticed to attest their want of information +respecting its size, length, tributaries, character, productions, and +importance. I therefore concluded that a summary of these particulars, +as observed by myself during a tour into that quarter, would be an +acceptable piece of service, and, with this view, began these +observations.</p> + +<p>White river originates near the ninety-seventh degree of west longitude, +and about the thirty-sixth of north latitude, and, after running in a +very serpentine course for thirteen hundred miles, enters the +Mississippi fifty miles above the mouth of the Arkansas, and seven +hundred above New Orleans. Its waters, unlike most of the western +rivers, are beautifully clear and transparent, being wholly made up of +springs that gush from the diluvial hills which are found, for more than +half its length, within a few miles of, and often immediately upon, its +banks. So much of the country through which it runs, is, therefore, +sterile and rough; but the immediate margin of the river uniformly +presents a strip of the richest alluvial bottom-land, from a quarter of +a mile to a mile and a half in width. On this, corn, wheat, rye, oats, +flax, hemp, and potatoes, have a vigorous growth; the mildness of the +climate, and the fertility of the soil, combining to render it one of +the most favorable of all countries for the pursuits of agriculture. +Cotton also succeeds on the banks of this river as high up as +settlements have extended, and will hereafter be an important item among +its agricultural productions. The district of tillable land on this +river, like many others west of the Mississippi, is chiefly confined to +its banks. Bordering this, is found a chain of hills on either side, +which sometimes close in upon the river's banks in perpendicular cliffs; +and the adjacent country may in general be considered as sterile. To +this remark, all its tributaries are exceptions; for they invariably +afford, however small, tracts of the most fertile land, covered with a +heavy growth of forest trees and underbrush. The cane is also common to +this stream in its whole course, and affords a nutritious food for cows, +horses, and hogs, who are fond of it, and fatten upon it. This plant +being an evergreen, cattle and horses may feed upon it all winter; and +it is accordingly given to them, as a substitute for hay, by the Indians +and hunters.</p> + +<p>The only inhabitants on the upper part of White river, so far as +inhabitants have penetrated, are hunters, who live in camps and log +cabins, and support themselves by hunting the bear, deer, buffalo, elk, +beaver, raccoon, and other animals, which are found in great plenty in +that region. They also raise corn for bread, and for feeding their +horses. They seldom, however, cultivate more than an acre or two, +subsisting chiefly on animal food and wild honey, and pay no attention +to the cultivation of garden vegetables, if I except some cabbages, +noticed at a few <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span>habitations. When the season of hunting arrives, the +ordinary labors of a man about the house and cornfield devolve upon the +women, whose condition in such a state of society may readily be +imagined. The inhabitants, in fact, pursue a similar course of life with +the savages, having embraced their love of ease, and their contempt for +agricultural pursuits, with their sagacity in the chase, their mode of +dressing in skins, their manners, and their hospitality to strangers.</p> + +<p>The furs and peltries which are collected during repeated excursions in +the woods, are taken down the river at certain seasons in canoes, and +disposed of to traders, who visit the lower parts of this river for that +purpose. Here they receive, in exchange for their furs, woollen cloths, +rifles, knives, hatchets, salt, powder, lead, iron for horse-shoes, +blankets, iron pots, shoes, and other articles of primary importance in +their way of life. Those living near the cultivated parts of Lawrence +county, in Arkansas Territory, also bring down, in exchange for such +articles, buffalo beef, pork, bears' meat, beeswax, and honey, which are +again sold by the traders along the banks of the Mississippi, or at New +Orleans. Very little money is paid, and that in hard cash only; no +bank-bills of any kind being taken in that quarter. I happened to be +present, on my return from the head-waters of White river, at one of +these exchanges, where a further opportunity was offered of observing +the manners and character of these people. Bears' meat was sold at $10 +per cwt.; buffalo beef at $4; cows' beef at $3; pork, in the hog, at $3 +50; venison hams at 25 cents each; wild turkeys, the same; wild honey at +$1 per gallon; beaver fur, $2 per lb.; bearskins, $1 50 each; otter +skins, $2; raccoon skins, 25 cents; deerskins, 25 cents per lb. These +prices were considered high by the purchaser; but they were only +nominally so, as he paid them off in articles at the most exorbitant +rates. Common three-point or Mackinaw blankets were sold at $8 each; +butcher-knives at $2; rifle-locks at $8; common coarse blue cloth at $6 +per yard; coffee at 75 cents per lb.; salt at $5 per bushel; lead at 25 +cents per lb.; gunpowder at $2 per lb.; axes at $6 each; horseshoe-nails +at $3 per set, &c. The trade of this river is consequently attended with +profits which amply repay the risks and fatigues incident to a voyage in +that quarter. Vast quantities of furs and skins are annually brought +down this river, with some beeswax, honey, beef, bacon, &c.; and +whenever the hunter population yields to the farming and mechanical +class, the list of its productions will be swelled by corn, rye, wheat, +oats, flax, hemp, and cotton; a sufficiency of each of which has already +been raised, to show that the climate and soil are well adapted to their +culture. Its mineral products are also worthy of attention. Iron-ore, +lead, zinc, and manganese, have already been discovered; and among its +earthy minerals may be enumerated marble, agate, jasper, hornstone, and +rock crystal; specimens of which, with some others, I picked up during +my journey there. Caves with nitre are also common; and large forests of +pine timber, which will be <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>wanted in the progressing settlements on the +Mississippi, are situated on its northern tributaries, and may be +floated down at an inconsiderable expense.</p> + +<p>White river runs through a section of country which, according to a +recent political division, belongs chiefly to the Territory of Arkansas; +but several of its tributaries originate in Missouri, the chief of which +are James river, Great North Fork, or Pine river, and Black river, with +its auxiliaries—Currents, Fourche à Thomas, Spring, Eleven-points, and +Strawberry rivers.</p> + +<p>About a hundred and fifty miles below the Pawnee mountains, the main +south fork of White river is joined by the War Eagle and Osage forks; a +region remarkable for the abundance of beaver found in its streams. In +the course of the succeeding two hundred miles, it is joined by King's +river and Tower creek on the south, and by Roaring fork and James river +on the north; the latter being by far the largest stream it has thus far +received, and contributing nearly as much water as all the others put +together. From the mouth of James river to its junction with the +Mississippi, it is successively joined by Long, Bull, Swan, Beaver, and +Big creeks, by the Little and Great North Forks, Black and Cash rivers, +on the north; and on the south by Bear and Crooked creeks, Buffalo Fork, +and Little Red river; and it is finally connected with the Arkansas +river by a natural canal called the <i>cut-off</i>, about thirty miles above +its junction with the Mississippi, which affords a navigable water +communication at all seasons. Many of the above tributaries are streams +of no ordinary magnitude, and afford boat navigation for many hundred +miles; they are all characterized by tracts of rich alluvial lands on +their banks. James river, Buffalo Fork, Great North Fork, Black river, +and Little Red river, merit individual attention.</p> + +<p>James river originates in the Ozarks, a few miles south of the +Gasconade, in Missouri Territory, and, after running in a south-west +direction for two hundred miles, in the course of which it is swelled by +Findley's river, and by other streams, forms a junction with White river +a thousand miles above the mouth of the latter. Its waters are as pure +as crystal; it lies under a climate the most mild, salubrious, and +delightful; and on its banks are situated a body of the most fertile and +beautiful lands which the whole valley of the Mississippi affords. The +timber on its banks is abundant; a remark which cannot with justice be +made of many parts of the adjacent country, and nothing can exceed the +vigor and the verdure of vegetable nature on the borders of this +beautiful stream. Prairies are also found within a mile of its western +banks, and extend towards the Grand Osage, as far as the eye can reach, +level as a graduated plain, and waving with tall grass, on which the +elk, the buffalo, and the deer, feed in countless numbers.</p> + +<p>Findley river forms a junction with this stream, near the centre of this +choice body of land, and about one hundred miles above its mouth. +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>Twenty miles above the junction of these streams, on the immediate banks +of James river, are situated some valuable lead-mines, which have been +known to the Osage Indians, and to a few White river hunters, for many +years. The Indians have been in the habit of procuring lead for bullets +at that place, by smelting the ore in a kind of furnace, made by digging +a pit in the ground, and casing it with some flat stones, placed so as +to resemble the roof of a house inverted; such is the richness of the +ore, and the ease with which it smelts. The ore has not, however, been +properly explored, and it is impossible to say how extensive the beds or +veins may prove. Some zinc, in the state of a sulphuret, is found +accompanying it. There is not one inhabitant on all this stream; my own +cabin, erected for a temporary purpose at the mines in January last, +being the only human habitation within two hundred miles of that place.</p> + +<p>Buffalo Fork originates near the north banks of the Arkansas, and, after +traversing a rocky country for about one hundred and eighty miles in a +north-east course, joins White river at the Buffalo Shoals, about seven +hundred miles above the Mississippi. It is a fine region for game, and +affords some good lands.</p> + +<p>The Great North Fork, or Pine river, is a stream of two hundred miles in +length, and a hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its waters are clear, +being entirely made up of springs, which are numerous all along its +banks; but the navigation is interrupted by rapids. It originates with +James river and the Gasconade, in a ridge of high land, which throws a +part of its waters into the Missouri, and a part into the Mississippi, +the streams running in opposite directions. In travelling into that +country, I accidentally arrived at the extreme head of this river, where +it consists only of some drizzling springs, and pursued it down, in all +its windings, to its junction with White river, about twelve miles below +the mouth of Buffalo Fork. It is bordered on both sides by limestone +bluffs, covered generally with tall pines, and affording some detached +strips of valuable land. On the whole, however, it must be considered a +sterile region, which will never admit of a dense population. The +bottoms are overrun by cane and brier, which render travelling extremely +fatiguing.</p> + +<p>This stream appears generally to have been considered by geographers as +the head of White river, which is accordingly, on most maps, made to +originate at this place. The error has been, in some degree, corrected +in Robinson's new map of Louisiana, lately published at Natchez, which +may be esteemed the best map extant respecting that section of country. +He calls it Pine river.</p> + +<p>Black river is a large, deep, and gentle stream, composed of numerous +auxiliaries, which draw their waters from the counties of Wayne, New +Madrid, and Lawrence; the two former lying in Missouri Territory, and +the latter in Arkansas. It is navigable with boats of the largest +burden, at all seasons of the year, for more than one hundred miles. +Little Black, Currents, Fourche à Thomas, Eleven-points, Spring, and +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>Strawberry rivers, are all streams of considerable size, coming in on +the west, and deserve particular notice on the future maps of that +country. Their banks afford choice bodies of fertile lands, which are +already the seat of many plantations and farms, where corn, rye, wheat, +oats, flax, hemp, and cotton, are raised in the greatest perfection, and +the settlements are rapidly increasing. Considerable quantities of beef +and pork are also put up for the New Orleans market, every facility +being afforded by the luxuriance of grass in the woods, and the +abundance of acorns in the fall, for raising and fattening hogs and +cattle. Lawrence county is generally considered among the first farming +districts west of the Mississippi. Davidsonville, the seat of justice +for this county, is situated on the west bank of Black river, at the +junction of Spring river. The settlements on Strawberry river, on the +Currents, Fourche à Thomas, Poke Bayou, and other places, are in a +flourishing condition.</p> + +<p>Little Red river issues near the sources of Buffalo Fork, and runs +parallel with the Arkansas for a great distance, but inclines gradually +to the north-east, and joins White river about two hundred miles above +its mouth. It affords a considerable body of choice land, but is subject +to very sudden rises, which overflow its banks, and have retarded, to +some extent, the further settlement of its valley.</p> + +<p>Such are the principal tributaries of White river; a stream which is +navigable, with keel-boats of thirty tons burden, to the foot of Buffalo +Shoals, a distance of seven hundred miles from its mouth, and may be +ascended with light vessels five hundred miles higher. It draws its +waters from a district of country about three hundred miles in width, by +seven or eight hundred in length, having on its borders and tributaries +large bodies of very rich lands, mixed with much that is poor and unfit +for cultivation; but, taking into view its advantageous situation for +commerce, its political relation to the two Territories, in a part of +each of which it lies, and the extensive bodies of farming-lands on +James river, Buffalo Fork, and Black river, we may anticipate the period +when a large population shall find their support on its banks—when +numerous villages and towns shall decorate its shores, and the +productive labor of its inhabitants swell greatly the commerce of the +western country, while they themselves command an important influence in +its political transactions.</p> + +<p>One of the most interesting events connected with the history of this +river, is the visit paid to it by De Soto in 1542. The place of his +crossing it is not certainly known.</p> +<br /> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span> +<p class="cen">STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE MISSISSIPPI.</p> + + +<p>Steamboats were first introduced on the Mississippi about 1812; and, +within seven years of that time, not less than fifty boats, of all +classes, had been built. The following list, which I made in 1819, +embraces all the steam-vessels which are known to have been put upon +that stream and its tributaries, prior to that era, and is believed to +give with accuracy their names and tonnage.</p> + +<p>Fulton's first successful experiment in the application of Savary's +steam-engine, as improved by Watt and Bolton, to the propulsion of +vessels, dates in 1807; so that but five years elapsed before the +invention was introduced, and twelve years before it was spread, on the +western waters. The impracticability of navigating those waters by the +force of sails, caused the invention to be hailed there with +acclamation; and this explains the cause of its rapid multiplication.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="90%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 245"> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp" width="5%">No.</td> + <td class="tdc" width="35%">Names.</td> + <td class="tdc" width="6%">Tons.</td> + <td class="tdc" width="8%"> </td> + <td class="tdrp" width="5%">No.</td> + <td class="tdc" width="35%">Names.</td> + <td class="tdc" width="6%">Tons.</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">1.</td> + <td class="tdl">Etna</td> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">27.</td> + <td class="tdl">St. Louis Packet</td> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">2.</td> + <td class="tdl">Vesuvius</td> + <td class="tdr">280</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">28.</td> + <td class="tdl">Ramapo</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">3.</td> + <td class="tdl">Orleans</td> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">29.</td> + <td class="tdl">Rising States</td> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">4.</td> + <td class="tdl">Alabama</td> + <td class="tdr">300</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">30.</td> + <td class="tdl">Maid of Orleans</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">5.</td> + <td class="tdl">Columbus</td> + <td class="tdr">400</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">31.</td> + <td class="tdl">Hamlet</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">6.</td> + <td class="tdl">Tamerlane</td> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">32.</td> + <td class="tdl">Perseverance</td> + <td class="tdr">50</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">7.</td> + <td class="tdl">James Ross</td> + <td class="tdr">250</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">33.</td> + <td class="tdl">Johnson</td> + <td class="tdr">75</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">8.</td> + <td class="tdl">United States</td> + <td class="tdr">500</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">34.</td> + <td class="tdl">Eagle</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">9.</td> + <td class="tdl">Paragon</td> + <td class="tdr">250</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">35.</td> + <td class="tdl">Vesta</td> + <td class="tdr">110</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">10.</td> + <td class="tdl">Thomas Jefferson</td> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">36.</td> + <td class="tdl">Harriet</td> + <td class="tdr">40</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">11.</td> + <td class="tdl">Ohio</td> + <td class="tdr">300</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">37.</td> + <td class="tdl">Constitution</td> + <td class="tdr">45</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">12.</td> + <td class="tdl">General Jackson</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">38.</td> + <td class="tdl">Louisiana</td> + <td class="tdr">60</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">13.</td> + <td class="tdl">Maysville</td> + <td class="tdr">152</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">39.</td> + <td class="tdl">Governor Shelby</td> + <td class="tdr">60</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">14.</td> + <td class="tdl">Exchange</td> + <td class="tdr">154</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">40.</td> + <td class="tdl">Franklin</td> + <td class="tdr">80</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">15.</td> + <td class="tdl">Volcano</td> + <td class="tdr">140</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">41.</td> + <td class="tdl">Rifleman</td> + <td class="tdr">60</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">16.</td> + <td class="tdl">Madison</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">42.</td> + <td class="tdl">Newport</td> + <td class="tdr">45</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">17.</td> + <td class="tdl">Kentucky</td> + <td class="tdr">60</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">43.</td> + <td class="tdl">Expedition</td> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">18.</td> + <td class="tdl">Hecla</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">44.</td> + <td class="tdl">General Clark</td> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">19.</td> + <td class="tdl">Napoleon</td> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">45.</td> + <td class="tdl">Henderson</td> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">20.</td> + <td class="tdl">Washington</td> + <td class="tdr">150</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">46.</td> + <td class="tdl">Tornado</td> + <td class="tdr">250</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">21.</td> + <td class="tdl">Buffalo</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">47.</td> + <td class="tdl">Elizabeth</td> + <td class="tdr">175</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">22.</td> + <td class="tdl">James Monroe</td> + <td class="tdr">70</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">48.</td> + <td class="tdl">Missouri Packet</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">23.</td> + <td class="tdl">Cincinnati</td> + <td class="tdr">85</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">49.</td> + <td class="tdl">Post-Boy (for pas'gers only)</td> + <td class="tdc">-</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">24.</td> + <td class="tdl">St. Louis</td> + <td class="tdr">200</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp">50.</td> + <td class="tdl">Western Engineer</td> + <td class="tdr" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 40</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">25.</td> + <td class="tdl">General Pike</td> + <td class="tdr">75</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> Total</td> + <td class="tdr">7,306</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdrp">26.</td> + <td class="tdl">Independence</td> + <td class="tdr">100</td> + <td class="tdc"> </td> + <td class="tdrp"> </td> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdr"> </td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>In addition to these, there are two new boats building at Pittsburgh, +one at Wheeling, one at Steubenville, one at Marietta, two at +Cincinnati, one at Frankfort, two at Shippingport, one at Madison, and +two at New Albany, making a total number of sixty-three. There are also +several more in contemplation, so that it is probable another year will +considerably augment the number. The first steamboat on the western +waters was built at Pittsburgh in 1811, eight years ago. Hence it +appears there has been an average increase of eight boats per annum; but +by far the greatest proportion have been built within the last three +years.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="70%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 246a"> + <tr> + <td class="tdl" width="80%">7306 tons, at 4 cents per lb. freight up from New Orleans, amounts to</td> + <td class="tdrb" width="20%">$584,480 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">7306 tons, at 1 cent per lb. freight down to New Orleans</td> + <td class="tdrb">146,120 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">10 passengers down in each boat, at $60</td> + <td class="tdrb">39,800 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">5 passengers up in each boat, at $100</td> + <td class="tdrb" style="text-decoration: underline;"> 31,500 00</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl"> </td> + <td class="tdrb">$801,900 00</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> + +<p>It is presumable that each boat will perform three trips to and from New +Orleans per annum, which will make an aggregate amount of freight and +passage money of $2,405,700 per annum. From this, some idea of the +trade, population, and business of the vast valley of the Mississippi, +may be formed. And let it be remembered, at the same time, that the +transportation of merchandise is not wholly done by steamboats. The Ohio +and Mississippi are still lined with keel-boats and barges; and much of +the produce is still carried to market in flat-bottomed boats, of a +temporary construction, which are not calculated to ascend the stream, +and are therefore generally sold for a trifle, or abandoned.</p> + +<p>The following is extracted from a comparative statement of the increase +of the principal articles of produce which arrived at the New Orleans +market during a period of three years.</p> + +<div class="centered"> +<table border="0" width="80%" cellpadding="2" cellspacing="0" summary="png 246b"> + <tr> + <td class="tdc" width="40%">Productions.</td> + <td class="tdr" width="20%">1815. </td> + <td class="tdr" width="20%">1816. </td> + <td class="tdr" width="20%">1817. </td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Bacon and hams, cwt.</td> + <td class="tdr">7,000</td> + <td class="tdr">13,000</td> + <td class="tdr">18,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Butter, lbs.</td> + <td class="tdr">- </td> + <td class="tdr">500</td> + <td class="tdr">1,800</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Cotton, bales</td> + <td class="tdr">60,000</td> + <td class="tdr">65,000</td> + <td class="tdr">65,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Corn, bushels</td> + <td class="tdr">120,000</td> + <td class="tdr">130,000</td> + <td class="tdr">140,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Flour, barrels</td> + <td class="tdr">75,000</td> + <td class="tdr">98,000</td> + <td class="tdr">190,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Molasses, gallons</td> + <td class="tdr">500,000</td> + <td class="tdr">800,000</td> + <td class="tdr">1,000,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Pork, barrels</td> + <td class="tdr">8,000</td> + <td class="tdr">9,700</td> + <td class="tdr">22,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Sugar, hhds.</td> + <td class="tdr">5,000</td> + <td class="tdr">7,300</td> + <td class="tdr">28,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Taffia, gallons</td> + <td class="tdr">150,000</td> + <td class="tdr">300,000</td> + <td class="tdr">400,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Tobacco, hhds</td> + <td class="tdr">5,000</td> + <td class="tdr">7,300</td> + <td class="tdr">28,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Wheat, bushels</td> + <td class="tdr">- </td> + <td class="tdr">- </td> + <td class="tdr">95,000</td> + </tr> + <tr> + <td class="tdl">Whiskey, gallons</td> + <td class="tdr">150,000</td> + <td class="tdr">230,000</td> + <td class="tdr">250,000</td> + </tr> +</table> +</div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY.</h2> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">SOME ARTICLES OF CURIOUS WORKMANSHIP FOUND IN AN ANCIENT BARROW.</p> + +<p>An opinion is entertained by many well-informed persons in the United +States, that the country has, at some remote period, been inhabited by a +civilized people, prior to its settlement or subjugation by the savages. +To the many evidences furnished to strengthen this opinion, by the +remnants of fortifications, tumuli, &c., may be added the discovery of +several articles of antiquarian value, and of singular workmanship, of +glass, or antique enamel, lately made on the eastern shores of lake +Erie.</p> + +<p>I have had an opportunity of examining a specimen of these antique +glasses, and, on the authority of my informant, am enabled to remark +that they were taken up about two months ago, from an ancient barrow in +the town of Hamburg, where they were found deposited in an earthen pot. +Contiguous to this pot were also found a skull, and some other human +remains, thought to be of an unusual size. This mound, or supposed +repository of the dead, is situated in an uncultivated part of the town, +and several trees were growing upon it at the time the excavation was +made; some of which were judged to be upwards of two feet in diameter.</p> + +<p>The glass relic which I had an opportunity to examine, (and I am told +they are all alike,) is in the form of a large barrel-shaped bead, +consisting of a tube of transparent green glass, covered with an opaque +coarse red enamel. Its length is nine-tenths of an inch, its greatest +width six and a half tenths of an inch, and the bore of the tube +two-tenths of an inch. Near the circle of the bore of this tube, is an +aperture of the size of a large needle, perforating the tube from one +end to the other. The enamel which covers the tube of transparent glass +appears to have been ornamented with painting, in figures resembling a +spindle, or two inverted sections of a circle; but they are now hardly +perceptible, as the bead appears to have been considerably worn.</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>But the circumstance most indicative of art in the making of this bead, +is a species of enamelling which has been performed both on the external +and internal surfaces of the tube, previous to its being covered by the +coarse red enamel. This second enamel is white, and, as the external +surface of the tube was not smooth, but in parallel <i>strie</i> or veins, +exhibits the appearance of a white vine between the green tube and the +red enamel. This enamelling appears to have been done, not by melting on +any vitreous composition, as is practised at the present day, but by the +effect of calcination for some time in a low red heat. This, it is +known, will deprive glass, especially green glass, of its transparency, +and render the surface white to a certain depth.</p> + +<p>The composition of the tube of glass, I have judged to be simply a +silicious sand and an alkali, probably with a small addition of lime or +vegetable ashes. It is hard, and will not receive scratches like the +lead glasses; and I conclude from this circumstance that there is no +lead in the composition. Its color seems also owing to the impurity of +the materials employed, like the common window and bottle glass, and is +probably caused by a minute portion of iron, in the state of an oxide, +combined with the sand and alkali.</p> + +<p>The red enamel covering the tube, and the pot in which these glasses +were found, seem to have been constructed of similar materials, as they +differ very little in color, texture, or other external character. +Probably a very fusible brick-clay, highly impregnated with the oxide of +iron, and pulverized fragments of green glass, are the principal +ingredients of both. The earthen pot is manifestly constructed of +different materials from those employed for brown pottery at the present +period. It is a more imperishable substance, of a close texture, and +vitreous appearance.</p> + +<p>I shall not presume to speculate in opinions which discoveries of this +interesting nature are calculated to create; it may, however, here be +added, that the fabrication of these glasses would suppose a perfection +in the arts, which none of the Indian tribes inhabiting this country at +the period of its discovery, had arrived at. That if introduced by the +French from Canada, in their earliest communications with the Indians +inhabiting the western parts of the State of New York, a sufficient time +would hardly have elapsed for the growth of trees of such size as were +found upon the mound from which these relics were taken. And that, if +not introduced by the French at the period alluded to, we must refer +their manufacture back to a very remote date, and one on which Indian +tradition is wholly silent.</p> + +<p>Since visiting the western country, I have had occasion to notice a +similar discovery on Big river, in the Territory of Missouri. On opening +an Indian grave (or what was considered such) on the bank of this river, +several beads of glass, of a similar character, were found. They were +accompanied by many bones of the human frame, of extraordinary size, and +which indicated, to common observation, a stature of seven or eight +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>feet in height. The person appeared to have been deformed, either by +birth or accident, as the right jaw-bone ran in a straight line from the +mouth back, while the left preserved the usual curve. The excavation was +made near the edge of the stream, where the soil is a rich alluvion, and +covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, such as are peculiar to the +richest Ohio and Mississippi bottom-lands. We may add, that it +corresponds best with history and probability to attribute these relics +to the early period of the fur-trade.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">ANCIENT INDIAN CEMETERY IN THE VALLEY OF THE MARAMEC RIVER.</p> + +<p>In the autumn of 1818, the existence of a number of small tumuli, or +antique Indian graves, was made known in the valley of the Maramec. This +discovery was made about fifteen miles south of St. Louis. Curiosity led +several persons to visit the spot and examine them, and my attention was +thus called to the subject. It was conjectured that the bones found in +these graves were the remains of a race of beings much smaller than +those of the present day.</p> + +<p>The essential facts connected with these discoveries, are these:—The +tumuli, which are small, occupy a wood near the dwelling of a Mr. Long. +The attention of this gentleman was arrested by this smallness of +cemeterial dimensions, or place of burial. Drs. Walker and Grayson, of +St. Louis, proceeded to the spot, opened several of the graves, and +examined their contents. The length of the stature of the interred +persons, measured by their stony casings, varied from twenty-three +inches, to four feet two or three inches. But the skeletons, with the +exception of the teeth, were reduced to a complete limy substance, and +their forms destroyed. The graves had originally been cased with rude +flat stones at the sides, and also at the head and feet. A flat stone +had also, in some instances, been laid over the top, and earth piled on +the grave, above the surface of the ground, to the general height of +three feet. This was a characteristic feature, and seemed designed to +mark the locality. In this stony coffin, all the softer and destructible +parts of the body had submitted to decay, with the exception before +mentioned—the teeth. The examination of these became, therefore, the +principal source of interest. They found the enamel perfect, and were +surprised to discover that they were the teeth of rather young persons, +who had, however, passed the age of puberty. The molars and incisors +were of the ordinary dimensions and character of second teeth. The +jaw-bone of the first specimen examined, appeared to have its full +complement, except the dentis sapienta, which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>physiologists do not +generally recognize until after the ages of eighteen to twenty-three.</p> + +<p>Many graves were examined, which differed more or less in length, +between the extremes stated, but agreed in their general conformity of +parts; from all which, these gentlemen came to the conclusion that the +remains denoted a stature of inferior size, while appearances indicated +a remote antiquity as the epoch of burial, which might as well be +supposed to be five centuries as one. This antiquity was inferred, as +well from the reduction of the bones to their elements, as from the +growth of large trees upon the graves, the roots of which penetrated +into their recesses.</p> + +<p>Upon this exhibition of facts, a legal gentleman<a name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> of intelligence +calls attention, with great pertinency, to the ancient manners and +customs of the Indians, in the burial of their dead.</p> + +<p>"As yet, I have seen no attempt to account for the size and appearance +of these skeletons, upon any other supposition than that they are the +remains of a people far less in size than any known at the present day. +Unwilling to adopt a belief so contrary to the general order of nature, +and to the history of the human species, so far as it has been +transmitted to us, I shall hazard some conjectures upon the subject, +which I think will, in some measure, tend to dissolve the mystery that +hovers over these bones, and to reconcile their appearance with the +general history of our race. To be sure, Nature, in her sport, has now +and then produced monsters. A taste for the marvellous among travellers +and historians, has occasionally conjured up a race of giants, or a +nation of pigmies; but when the light of truth has reached us from the +distant corners of the earth, where they were said to dwell, we have +found them to assume the size, shape, and attitude of men, and nothing +more. So far as observation or history extends, we find the species +nearly the same in all ages and in all countries. Climate has had some +effect upon the size, and upon the complexion. The excessive cold of the +north has shortened an inch or two the necks of the Esquimaux, and the +heat of the south has colored the African. But what, in this genial +climate, should make dwarfs? It is here, if anywhere, that we should +naturally expect to find giants! All the other productions of nature are +here brought forth in the highest perfection. And shall <i>man</i> here grow +a pigmy? Unless we are ready to adopt the opinion of certain +naturalists, that the human species are the legitimate descendants of +the apes, and that they once wore tails, and were of their diminutive +size—unless we are ready to believe the history of the Lilliputians, +and of Tom Thumb—I think we shall discard the idea of a nation of +dwarfs, as wholly preposterous. But how, on any other supposition, shall +we account for the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long?</p> + +<p>"None of the graves found there exceed four feet in length, many of +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span>them fall short of three, and the teeth found in all of them show that +they contain the remains of human beings who had arrived at years of +maturity. The manners and customs of the Indians with respect to the +treatment of their dead, will, I think, solve all difficulties, and +satisfactorily account for these appearances, without doing violence to +nature. According to the testimony of travellers and historians, it has +been the custom among many tribes of Indians to hang their dead in +baskets upon trees and scaffolds, until their flesh was consumed, and +then to take them down, clean their bones, and bury them. There existed +an order of men among them called <i>bone-pickers</i>, with long nails like +claws, whose business and profession it was to clean the unconsumed +flesh from the bones, previous to burial. This custom still exists among +the Indians on the waters of the Missouri, and rationally accounts for +the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long. The bones of a skeleton of +the ordinary size, when separated, would naturally occupy a grave of +three or four feet in length. It appears that in all the graves which +were opened, the bones, except the teeth, were reduced to a chalky +substance, so that it would be impossible to know, with any certainty, +in what state, condition, or form, they were deposited there. These +skeletons are said to rest on their sides. Taking this fact to be true, +it goes to strengthen my ideas on this subject. In burying a corpse, it +is natural, and, so far as we are acquainted, universally the custom, to +bury them with the face upwards. We can look upon our dead friends with +a melancholy complacency—we cast a long and lingering look after them +until they are completely shut from our view in the grave; and nothing +is more hard and heart-rending than to tear our last looks from them. It +is natural, then, that the body should be placed in such a position as +most to favor this almost universal desire of the human heart. But, in +burying a skeleton, it would be as natural to avert the horrid grin of a +death's-head from us. To face the grinning skeleton of a friend, must +fill us with horror and disgust. 'Turn away the horrid sight,' would be +the language of nature. If we adopt my supposition as correct in this +case, all the facts correspond with nature. But if we adopt the opinion +of a recent writer, our conclusions will be at war with nature, reason, +and universal observation."</p> + +<p>The following observations by the Rev. J. M. Peck, of St. Louis, may +also here be added:</p> + +<p>"One grave was opened which measured four feet in length; this was +formed by laying a flat stone at the bottom, placing one on each side, +one at each end, and covering the mouth with another. In the last +circumstance, this grave differed from the others that were opened; the +contents were a full-grown skeleton, with the head and teeth, part of +the spine, the thigh and leg bones, in a tolerable state of +preservation. The leg-bones were found parallel with the bones of the +thighs, and every appearance indicated, either that the corpse had been +entombed with the legs and thighs placed so as to meet, or that a +skeleton had been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>deposited in this order. The first opinion seems the +most probable, from the fact that a large stone pipe was found in the +tomb, which I understand is now in the possession of Mr. Long."</p> + +<p>Both implements of war, and of domestic use, are buried with the dead +bodies of the Indians; but it admits of a query if they are ever +deposited with the mere skeleton.</p> + +<p>"It is a well-known fact," says Bishop Madison, while writing on the +supposed fortifications of the western country,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> "that, among many of +the Indian tribes, the bones of the deceased are annually collected and +deposited in one place, that the funeral rites are then solemnized with +the warmest expressions of love and friendship, and that this untutored +race, urged by the feelings of nature, consign to the bosom of the +earth, along with the remains of their deceased relatives, food, weapons +of war, and often those articles they possessed, and most highly valued, +when alive."</p> + +<p>This fact is substantiated from various respectable sources. The pious +custom of collecting the relics of the dead, which accident, or the +events of a battle, might have dispersed through the wilderness, easily +accounts for the graves on the Maramec, as well as explains the origin +of the artificial mounds in the vicinity. If these were opened, there +would be found promiscuously deposited the bones of the aborigines, +which pious veneration, from year to year and from century to century, +industriously collected. The cemetery alluded to, on the plantation of +Mr. Long, may be viewed as the public burial-place of some powerful +nation of the same size, and similar customs, with other Indians.</p> +<br /> + +<p class="cen">OSAGES.</p> + +<p>This tribe claims, as original possessors, the territories of the +Ozarks, over which my journeys have chiefly laid. They claim all the +country north of the Arkansas, to the Maramec. The term Ozark appears to +me to be compounded from Osage and Arkansas.</p> + +<p>They are manly, good-looking, stout-limbed men, erratic in their mode of +life, living a part of the year in fixed villages, and roving with their +families through the forests, in search of game, the remainder. Their +territories are immense.</p> + +<p>The Osages, if we may judge from popular opinion, are very much in the +condition of the sons of Ishmael—"Their hand is against every man, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>and +every man's hand against them." It is remarkable that they possess so +much skill as they do in public negotiations, which they manage with +address, with a bold, direct air, employing enlarged thoughts and +phrases, which are calculated to impress the hearer favorably as to +their mental abilities.</p> + +<p>But little opportunity has been had of personal observation on their +manners and customs. Their mode of encampment has been seen, and is so +arranged as to place the chiefs of the village, or camp, in the position +of honor. It is stated that, at daybreak, a public crier makes +proclamation of the expected events and duties of the day, which, to +ears uninitiated, sounds like a call to prayer. I fancy the prayer of +Indians, if they pray at all, is for deer and buffalo.</p> + +<p>It appears from the manuscript records of General William Clark, at St. +Louis, which I have been permitted to see, that they have a tale, or +fiction, of their origin from a snail and beaver. If this is an +allegory, we are to suppose that persons bearing these names were their +progenitors. I avail myself of the public interpreter of the language to +submit the following vocabulary of it.<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> Rufus Pettibone, Esq., of St. Louis.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> See American Philosophical Transactions, Vol. VI.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> Omitted.</p></div> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span> +<br /> + +<hr /> +<br /> +<h2>EXTRACTS FROM THE AMERICAN JOURNAL OF SCIENCE.</h2> +<br /> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>Notice of "A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri, including +some Observations on the Mineralogy, Geology, Geography, +Antiquities, Soil, Climate, Population, and Productions, of +Missouri and Arkansas, and other sections of the Western +Country; accompanied by three Engravings. By <span class="smcap">Henry R. +Schoolcraft</span>, Corresponding Member of the Lyceum of +Natural History of New York." 1821.</p></div> + + +<p>As this work has been more than a year before the American public, and +is already well known, it may seem superfluous to make any remarks upon +it at so late a period. It was our purpose to have given it an early +notice, but circumstances which could not be controlled, prevented. +Still, as it is devoted to subjects which form a prominent object in +this Journal, and is, as far as we are informed, the only elaborate and +detailed account of a mining district in the United States, we are not +disposed to remain silent, especially as the discharge of the duty is +not likely to be painful, either to ourselves or to the author. Reviews +in form, although within the plan of this Journal, do not constitute one +of its most leading objects, and we do not hold ourselves responsible +for analyses or even for notices of new American books, unless they +appear particularly interesting or important, or hold a very intimate +connexion with the great design of our work.</p> + +<p>We have already intimated that we regard Mr. Schoolcraft's work in this +light. We take it for granted that the statements of facts made by this +author, are both faithful and accurate; the information which we have +incidentally derived from other sources, certainly countenances this +impression, but the whole amount of it is small, compared with the +details contained in the present volume.</p> + +<p>Mr. Schoolcraft's opportunities for observation were extensive, +particularly in relation to the mines of lead in the Missouri region. +Among those mines he spent a year. "I have made (says he) a personal +examination of every mine of consequence, with a view to ascertain its +general character and value and its peculiarities. I have travelled on +foot over the whole mine country, exploring its minerals, its geological +structure, its geographical position, soil, climate, productions, towns, +streams, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>settlements, and whatever else appeared to me to be necessary +to describe, explain and illustrate the subject before me."</p> + +<p>Mr. Schoolcraft appears to have made good use of the advantages which he +enjoyed, and his countrymen are indebted to him for a great amount of +valuable information. He appears also to have studied the observations +of preceding writers, and, with their works before him, it was in his +power to correct errors and to supply deficiencies.</p> + +<p>He has prefixed an historical sketch which we presume will be acceptable +to every reader. The French, as is well known, were the original +discoverers and settlers of the Missouri, and Illinois regions, which +were embraced in their vast scheme of forming a chain of posts and +settlements from the mouth of the St. Lawrence, to that of the +Mississippi. They did not occupy the country of the Missouri and +Illinois till more than a century after the settlement of Quebec, and +about a century before the present period. At that time, (1720,) the +lead mines were discovered by Philip Francis Renault, and M. La Motte, +and by them they were wrought, although they and the adventurers under +them were disappointed in their expectations of finding gold and silver.</p> + +<p>At the end of about half a century, the country passed into the hands of +the Spaniards, and under their dominion, probably about forty years +since, the principal mine was discovered by a man of the name of Burton, +and from him it has derived the name of Mine à Burton.</p> + +<p>It appears that the processes of mining under the Spaniards were very +imperfect, as they obtained only fifty per cent. of lead from the ore, +threw away the lead ashes, and did not attempt any manufactures of shot +or any other articles. They employed only the open log furnace.</p> + +<p>In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., a native of Connecticut, who had been +occupied with lead mines in Wythe county, in Virginia, obtained from the +Spanish government, a grant of a league square in the mining district in +consideration of his introducing a reverberatory furnace. He sunk the +first regular shaft—the mining having, till that time, been prosecuted +solely by open digging, in the manner of quarries. Mr. Austin also +introduced the manufacture of shot, and that of sheet lead soon +followed. About the same time several other American families collected +at the mines, and infused new spirit and enterprise into the mining +operations, so that they were carried on with considerable vigour at the +time when (in 1803) the country was transferred to the United States. +Mr. Schoolcraft, from whom these facts are taken, remarks, that since +1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied—population +has flowed rapidly in—the processes on the ore have been much +improved—better furnaces have been constructed, and "every season is +adding to the number of the mines." "Every day is developing to us the +vast resources of this country, particularly in lead," and the author +expresses his opinion that "the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no +other mineral district in the world."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>From the specimens which we possess of this ore, and from the documents +produced by the author respecting the produce of the mines, we believe +his opinion is correct, especially if we consider the fact that "the +earth has not yet been penetrated over eighty feet;" "we know not what +may be found in the lower strata." "There is reason to believe that the +main bodies of ore have not been hit upon, that they lie deeper, and +that we have thus far been only engaged upon the spurs and detached +masses."</p> + +<p>Mr. Schoolcraft informs us that although the mining business is much +improved, there is still a great deficiency both of capital and of +skill—there is in the whole district but one regular hearth furnace for +smelting, and that not the best;—among forty mines, there are only four +or five regular shafts—there is among all the mines, no engine of any +description for raising water, and some of the richest mines with the +best prospects in view, have been in consequence abandoned. Yet, under +all these disadvantages, the annual produce of the mines is estimated at +three millions of pounds of lead.</p> + +<p>The author suggests the expediency of establishing a school of mines and +minerals in the midst of the mines themselves; this would, without +doubt, be a very proper measure, but in the meantime, skilful practical +miners, and captains of mines, such as are found in every mining +district in Europe, would supply the immediate demands of the country.</p> + +<p>The mining district, formerly called the lead mines of Louisiana, is +situate between the 37th and the 38th degree of north latitude, and +between the 89th and 92d degree of west longitude, covers three thousand +one hundred and fifty square miles—it is from seventy to one hundred +miles long by forty or forty-five, extending in width from the +Mississippi south-west to the Fourche à Courtois, and in length from the +head waters of St. Francis northerly to the Maramec.</p> + +<p>Lead ore is found in almost every part of this district. Mr. Schoolcraft +says, "the general aspect of the country is sterile, though not +mountainous: the lands lie rolling, like a body of water in gentle +agitation. In some places the hills rise into abrupt cliffs, where the +great rock formations of the country may be seen; in others, they run +into level plains—a kind of highland prairie."</p> + +<p>"The soil is a reddish colored clay, stiff and hard, and full of +fragments of flinty stones, quartz and gravel; this extends to the depth +of from ten to twenty feet, and is bottomed on limestone rock. It is so +compact in some places, as almost to resist the pick-axe; in others it +seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and readily penetrated. The +country is particularly characterized by quartz, which is strewed in +detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and is also found +imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called blossom of lead. +Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the surface of the ground, +and occasionally lead ore. Such is the general character of the mineral +hills, which are invariably covered by a stinted growth of oaks."</p> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>Walnut is also found on the hills, and there is a ridge of yellow pine, +not more than six or eight miles wide, running nearly south-east and +north-west, but it is nearly or quite destitute of lead—the mines lie +generally east of it. In summer the flinty aspect of the country is +veiled by a luxuriant growth of grass, which gives it a very pleasing +and picturesque appearance.</p> + +<p>The valleys have a rich alluvial soil, well fitted for cultivation; but +our limits will not allow us to mention the vegetable productions of the +country. This region is well irrigated, and very healthy, being +possessed of a fine climate. Mr. Schoolcraft remarks, that during a +residence of ten months he never heard of a death; the country is free +from the fevers which infest some of the neighboring regions. It seems, +however, that the animals are visited by what is called the mine +sickness. "Cows and horses are frequently seen to die without any +apparent cause. Cats and dogs are taken with violent fits, which never +fail, in a short time, to kill them." It is said that the inhabitants +impute these affections to the sulphur exhaled in smelting the lead, as +the cattle are often seen licking about the old furnaces. But sulphur is +not poisonous either to men or animals. The author imputes it to the +sulphate of barytes, with which the district abounds, which he states is +a "poison to animals."</p> + +<p>The carbonate of barytes is eminently poisonous; but we have never heard +that the sulphate is so. May not the licking around the furnaces expose +the cattle to receive lead in some of its forms, minutely divided? or, +if it be not active in the metallic state, both the oxides and the +carbonate, which must of course exist around the furnaces, would be +highly active and poisonous. Is it not possible, also, that some of the +natural waters of the country may, in consequence of saline or acid +impregnations, dissolve some of the lead, and thus obtain saturnine +qualities? We must allow, however, that we are not acquainted with the +existence of any natural water thus impregnated.</p> + +<p>Among the mineral productions of this region, certainly not the least +remarkable mentioned by Mr. Schoolcraft, is the Iron Mountain, where the +ore is piled in such enormous masses as to constitute the entire +southern extremity of a lofty ridge, which is elevated five or six +hundred feet above the plain: the ore is the micaceous exide, and is +said to yield good malleable iron.</p> + +<p>There is another body of iron ore five miles west of the iron mountain, +scarcely inferior to that mentioned above, and it appears that several +other beds exist in the same vicinity.</p> + +<p>Zinc is abundant, but as the ore is the sulphuret, it is not very +valuable. It is not mentioned that calamine, which is the useful ore of +zinc, has been found.</p> + +<p>As to the geological nature of the country, in which the lead mines are +situate, he informs us that "Bellevue abounds in granite;" that the only +vein of granite rock in the mine country (as far as he had opportunity +to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>observe) passes across the south-western end of Madison county—runs +into Bellevue—is four or five miles wide, and twenty or thirty miles in +a direction from south-east to north-west.</p> + +<p>The granite is spoken of in another place, (p. 170,) as being a +geological phenomenon, as containing imbedded in it or lying upon its +surface, gneiss, green stone, porphyry, iron ores, &c.; it is spoken of +as a red granite, containing very little mica, and as being used for +millstones. It is mentioned as the "only mass of granite known to exist +between the primitive ranges of the Alleghany and Rocky mountains," and +as being surrounded on all sides, and to an almost immeasurable extent, +with secondary limestone.</p> + +<p>Again, (p. 193,) the granite is cited as the "old red granite in +mountain masses, with some veins of green stone, green stone porphyry, +and gneiss;" it is said to terminate in very rough and broken high +lands. At page 213, it is mentioned, still again, as giving origin to +the river St. Francis, whose "springs gush out among these stupendous +piles of red granite." Besides the ores of iron, lead and zinc, "quartz, +feldspar, shorl, mica, and graphite are among the minerals furnished by +that region," and "green stone, gneiss, and green stone porphyry, are +among the larger masses of rock." The green stone, it seems, "is found +in large isolated fragments, lying promiscuously among the fragments of +granite which have tumbled down from the lofty cliffs above, and is +rendered porphyritic by crystals of green and flesh-colored feldspar."</p> + +<p>We have no right to doubt that the rock described is granite, as the +principal features delineated, correspond with that supposition. As it +is described as being solitary, the only granite between the Alleghanies +and the Rocky mountains, we are led to ask, is it a portion of the +nucleus of our globe, covered on every side, for many hundred miles, +with secondary rocks, and here heaving its head through the +superincumbent strata, and standing alone? But what are we to conclude +of the limestone? We should have liked especially to have had the +relations of this limestone with that remarkable granite region pointed +out. Does this latter repose on the granite, where it dips obliquely +under, as it probably does, in order to find its way beneath the other +rocks, and to vindicate its claim to a fundamental position? But, +perhaps we are asking more than is reasonable, for, it may be that there +are no such sections in the strata as would expose all these facts to +view, and enable the observer to decide.</p> + +<p>These hints we have dropped, not, we trust, from a captious disposition, +but because we have found a real difficulty in conceiving clearly of the +geological nature of this limestone, which, it seems, is the basis of +the lead-mine country, and therefore it is very important that its +characters should be indubitably fixed. We have not been so fortunate as +to see Mr. Schoolcraft's specimens; possibly a view of them would have +rendered the preceding remarks, in part at least, unnecessary.</p> + +<p>Leaving the geological features of the lead-mine district, we proceed to +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>cite some interesting and important facts from Mr. Schoolcraft's +work:—"The soil," he remarks, "is a reddish colored clay, stiff and +hard, and full of fragments of flinty stone, quartz and gravel; this +extends to the depth of from ten to twenty feet, and is bottomed on +limestone rock. It is so compact in some places as almost to resist the +pick-axe; in others it seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and +readily penetrated. The country is particularly characterized by quartz, +which is strewed in detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and +is also found imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called +blossom of lead. Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the +surface of the ground, and occasionally lead ore. The mineral +productions of the country, in addition to lead, are zinc, iron, ochre, +red chalk, saltpetre, sulphur, alum and salt."</p> + +<p>The ore (the author remarks) is the lead glance, galena, or sulphuret of +lead. It is very rich and beautiful, and specimens in our possession +fully confirm Mr. Schoolcraft's account; they have a very broad and +perfectly foliated fracture, and a high degree of metallic lustre; they +break in cubical fragments, and the minutest portions still retain this +form.</p> + +<p>We have already observed that large fragments are found loose in the +earth: they sometimes weigh four or five pounds; we have such specimens +from these mines; they are of a cubical form, and are surrounded, except +where they have been broken, by an earthy incrustation.</p> + +<p>It is observed that the marly earth thrown out from the pits, enriches +the ground, so that in a few years it is covered with a very rank growth +of trees, vines, &c., and this is a regular characteristic of old +diggings. Innumerable portions of radiated quartz, and sharp fragments +of flinty stones are mixed with the clay, and form the first stratum of +about fourteen inches. The next is of a red clay, and is four or five +feet thick, and less mixed with similar siliceous substances. Then comes +a layer of gravel and rounded siliceous pebbles, about one foot thick, +containing small portions of lead ore. The thickness of the bed of ore +is generally a foot; and the lumps of ore appear to have been rounded by +attrition, like common gravel. "This is the character of what is called +the gravel ore, and no spars are found accompanying it. The greatest +proportion of lead ore is, however, found imbedded in, and accompanied +by, the sulphate of barytes, resting in a thick stratum of marly clay, +bottomed on limestone rock." They invariably arrive at the rock at the +depth of from fifteen to twenty, or sometimes thirty feet; a new process +by boring and blasting is now necessary, and most diggers abandon their +pits rather than prosecute them at this expense. If, however, as there +can be little doubt, the limestone is the real matrix of the lead ore, +the time will come when the present diggings will be considered as +merely superficial beginnings, and the work will be resumed where +hitherto it has been abandoned. It seems that the almost invariable +practice of the miners is, to persevere till they strike the rock, and +then to go and dig elsewhere; they cannot, if disposed, prosecute the +business by levels or <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span>galleries, for they are not permitted to carry on +their mining except immediately under the surface that is covered by +their respective leases, or by twelve feet square, which, if unoccupied, +an adventurer may cover by occupancy. Among the substances accompanying +the lead, blende and the sulphate of barytes are said to be very +abundant; the latter in specimens which we have, is particularly +brilliant and white;<a name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> the quartz is often prettily crystallized, and +is so invariable a concomitant of the ore, that the miners, as we have +before remarked, give it the meaning appellation of mineral blossom.</p> + +<p>A curious fact is mentioned by Mr. Schoolcraft, respecting the Elliott's +mines. "During the remarkable earthquakes of 1812, a fine spring of +water at the mouth of the mines suddenly became warm and foul, and in a +few days dried up entirely, and no water has run there since." +"Illuminations in the atmosphere are frequently observed in this +vicinity on the approach of night."<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a></p> + +<p>It seems there is a considerable quantity of a greyish white sublimate +collected at the log hearth furnaces, and rejected by the workmen upon +the supposition that it is sulphur and arsenic; but Mr. Schoolcraft, by +unquestionable experiments, ascertained that it was lead, as would +appear, in the form of a carbonated oxide. A considerable loss is in +this manner sustained, and in a more advanced state of the metallurgic +operations of these mines, the author's valuable suggestions will not be +neglected. There is one mine (M'Kain's) where the ore is of the +steel-grained variety—it is said to yield less lead, and is inferred to +contain more silver than the common ores; we are aware that this is the +common impression, but our own experiments on different varieties of +lead ore would induce us to think that it cannot be relied upon. We have +examined fine steel-grained ore which contained very little silver; in +one specimen only one five-thousandth part, and in another, and that a +foliated specimen, we found three and a half per cent, of silver.</p> + +<p>The methods of digging for the ore are sufficiently simple. "A pick-axe +and shovel are the only tools used for removing the earth, and the +drill, hammer and priming rod are added when it is necessary to blast." +The process is carried on as in digging a common well.</p> + +<p>We must refer our readers to the book itself for a clear account of the +furnaces and furnace operations, employed for smelting the lead; it will +be the more intelligible, as it is accompanied by two good plates +containing views and sections of the furnaces. A circumstance which +appears very extraordinary is, that the furnaces are most commonly built +of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>limestone, which is of course calcined, and brought to the condition +of quicklime by a few blasts, and then it crumbles and the furnaces must +be rebuilt.</p> + +<p>The ore yields at first fifty per cent., and then the ashes give fifteen +per cent, more—sixty-five<a name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a> in the whole.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a></p> + +<p>Custom, says the author, has established a number of laws among the +miners, with regard to digging, which have a tendency to prevent +disputes. Whenever a discovery is made, the person claiming it is +entitled to claim the ground for twenty-five feet, in every direction +from his pit, giving him fifty feet square. Other diggers are each +entitled to twelve feet square, which is just enough to sink a pit, and +afford room for throwing out the earth. Each one measures and stakes off +his ground; and though he should not begin his work for several days +afterwards, no person will intrude upon it. On this spot he digs down, +but is not allowed to run drifts horizontally, so as to break into or +undermine the pits of others. If appearances are unpromising, or he +strikes the rock, and chooses to abandon his pit, he can go on any +unoccupied ground, and, observing the same precautions, begin anew. In +such a case, the abandoned pit may be occupied by any other person; and +sometimes large bodies of ore are found by the second occupant, by a +little work, which would have richly rewarded the labors of the first +had he persevered.</p> + +<p>Mr. Schoolcraft, from various particulars, infers that the average +annual produce of the Missouri lead mines, as mentioned before, is three +million pounds per annum, and the lead was worth in 1819, at the mines, +four cents per pound. For the last three years, up to 1819 inclusive, +the produce of the mines was estimated at three million seven hundred +twenty-six thousand six hundred and sixty-six pounds per annum of pig +lead, which the author supposes to be not more than one half what the +mines are capable of yielding.</p> + +<p>The number of miners is between eleven and twelve hundred, and the +number of hands employed in labor at different mines is from twenty to +two hundred and forty, including in both cases persons of all +descriptions.</p> + +<p>Many miscellaneous topics connected with the general subject of his +work, are introduced by Mr. Schoolcraft, such as the sections relating +to the manufactures, and uses of lead, &c., but it is not our object to +advert to these topics.</p> + +<p>Among the miscellaneous mineral productions of the western regions, +there are some that are interesting; and it will be seen from the +author's table of minerals, that the list is various. There are several +caverns which produce nitrate of potash by the usual treatment; and +Ashley's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>Cave, about eighty miles from Potosi, is said to be one of +stupendous size, and to "afford native nitrate of potash in beautiful +white crystals."</p> + +<p>The novaculite is mentioned as occurring on Washita, as described by Mr. +Bringier in the present number.</p> + +<p>Steatite exists in abundance at the falls of St. Anthony, on the +Mississippi, and is used by the Indians for pipes.</p> + +<p>The fluate of lime, near Shawneetown, was described in the first volume +of this journal.</p> + +<p>Among other minerals, Mr. Schoolcraft mentions chalcedony in several +varieties, earthy oxide of lead, native copper, alum, manganese, +opalized and agatized wood, opal, jasper, coal, gypsum, native epsom +salts, pumice stone, agate, onyx, burr millstone, native iron, &c.; for +the localities and descriptions of which, we must refer to the book +itself.</p> + +<p>Those facts of Mr. Schoolcraft's volume which relate to statistical and +political topics, do not come within the plan of these remarks.</p> + +<p>During our cursory notice of this work, we have cited a number of the +most prominent facts which it contains, both because they are in +themselves important, and because we were willing to call the attention +of our readers both to them, and to the volume in which they are +contained. Both are, in our view, entitled to great respect; and we +confess ourselves very much indebted to Mr. Schoolcraft for a great mass +of valuable information, which, in a connected form, is, we believe, +nowhere else to be found. His statements (as regards the most valuable +part) are drawn from his own research and observations, and have +evidently been the result of much effort, and of no small share of +fatigue and personal privation. We trust that so valuable a work will +not stop with a single edition, and perhaps we might venture to suggest +to the author, that in a second, he might advantageously condense into +one view some facts which are several times repeated in different parts +of the volume—such as those respecting the granite and its connected +rocks, the lead ore and its associated minerals, &c.</p> + +<p>We consider the present work as an acquisition to our means of +information respecting our mineral resources, and believe that it must +be a regular volume of reference for all those who are interested in the +investigation of these subjects.</p> + +<h4>FOOTNOTES:</h4> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> It is mentioned by the author, as a chemical test or +reagent: it may, by decomposing it by ignition with charcoal, or with an +alkaline carbonate, be made to afford its earth for the preparation of +barytic tests, but we are not aware that it is itself ever used as a +test.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> They are attributed by the author to phosphorus. Is it +supposed to be in the form of phosphuretted hydrogen? May not these be +electrical phenomena?</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a> According to Dr. Meade, the Missouri ore affords only a +trace of silver. (See Bruce's Minl. Journal, vol. 1, p. 10.)</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p class="noin"><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a> Mr. Schoolcraft thinks it may yield seventy per cent.—it +gave him by analysis eighty-two per cent.</p></div> +<br /> + +<h3>THE END.</h3> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> +<br /> + +<div class="tr"> +<p class="cen"><a name="TN" id="TN"></a>Transcriber's Note</p> +<br /> +Some inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in +the original document has been preserved.<br /> +<br /> +Typographical errors corrected in the text:<br /> +<br /> +Page 24 musquitoes changed to mosquitoes<br /> +Page 64 develope changed to develop<br /> +Page 94 M'Gary's changed to M'Garey's<br /> +Page 103 20th changed to 29th<br /> +Page 110 brandt changed to brant<br /> +Page 113 Gasconage changed to Gasconade<br /> +Page 139 Quiquate changed to Quiguate<br /> +Page 155 emigate changed to emigrate<br /> +Page 155 Philips changed to Phillips<br /> +Page 156 Peora changed to Peoria<br /> +Page 160 scientic changed to scientific<br /> +Page 161 borers changed to borders<br /> +Page 170 M'Kane's changed to M'Kain's<br /> +Page 186 octohedral changed to octahedral<br /> +Page 191 precicision changed to precision<br /> +Page 196 develope changed to develop<br /> +Page 207 1719 date in paragraph 39a may be 1749<br /> +Page 208 irridescence changed to iridescence<br /> +Page 211 octohedrons changed to octahedrons<br /> +Page 217 annnally changed to annually<br /> +Page 246 some changed to same<br /> +Page 254 coutained changed to contained<br /> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Scenes and Andventures in the +Semi-Alpine Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas, by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS *** + +***** This file should be named 36675-h.htm or 36675-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/6/7/36675/ + +Produced by Julia Miller, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Scenes and Adventures in the Semi-Alpine Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas + +Author: Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +Release Date: July 9, 2011 [EBook #36675] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS *** + + + + +Produced by Julia Miller, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + +[Illustration: POTOSI _alias Mine a Burlon_.] + + + + + SCENES + + AND + + ADVENTURES + + IN THE + + Semi-Alpine Region + + OF THE + + OZARK MOUNTAINS OF MISSOURI + + AND ARKANSAS, + + WHICH WERE FIRST TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO, IN 1541. + + + + + BY HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT. + + + + + PHILADELPHIA: + LIPPINCOTT, GRAMBO & CO. + 1853. + + + + + Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by + + HENRY ROWE SCHOOLCRAFT, + + in the Office of the Clerk of the District Court + for the District of Columbia. + + + + + Dedication. + + ~~~~~~~~~~~ + + _To the Memory_ + + OF + + DE WITT CLINTON, + + LATE GOVERNOR OF THE STATE OF NEW YORK, &C. &C. &C., + + AN EARLY FRIEND, DURING THE YEARS DEVOTED TO THESE EXCURSIONS + INTO THE GREAT AREA OF THE WEST;-- + + A MAN WHO WAS EMINENT IN VARIOUS WALKS OF LIFE;-- + + WHO, BY HIS EXALTED FORECAST, WISE COUNSELS, AND STEADY POLICY, + CONTRIBUTED TO THE HIGHEST BENEFITS AND RENOWN OF HIS + NATIVE STATE;-- + + THESE RECORDS OF INCIDENTS OF EXPLORATORY TRAVEL, + ARE DEDICATED WITH THE SINCEREST SENTIMENTS OF RESPECT AND REGARD + FOR HIS CHARACTER AND NAME, + WHICH I EVER ENTERTAINED FOR HIM WHILE LIVING, + AND CONTINUE TO CHERISH NOW THAT HE IS DEAD. + + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +These early adventures in the Ozarks comprehend my first exploratory +effort in the great area of the West. To traverse the plains and +mountain elevations west of the Mississippi, which had once echoed the +tramp of the squadrons of De Soto--to range over hills, and through +rugged defiles, which he had once searched in the hope of finding mines +of gold and silver rivalling those of Mexico and Peru; and this, too, +coming as a climax to the panorama of a long, long journey from the +East--constituted an attainment of youthful exultation and +self-felicitation, which might have been forgotten with its termination. +But the incidents are perceived to have had a value of a different kind. +They supply the first attempt to trace the track of the Spanish +cavaliers west of the Mississippi. The name of De Soto is inseparably +connected with the territorial area of Missouri and Arkansas, which he +was the first European to penetrate, and in the latter of which he died. + +Four-and-thirty years have passed away, since the travels here brought +to view, were terminated. They comprise a period of exciting and +startling events in our history, social and political. With the +occupancy of Oregon, the annexation of Texas, the discoveries in +California, and the acquisition of New Mexico, the very ends of the +Union appear to have been turned about. And the lone scenes and +adventures of a man on a then remote frontier, may be thought to have +lost their interest. But they are believed to possess a more permanent +character. It is the first and _only_ attempt to identify De Soto's +march west of the Mississippi; and it recalls reminiscences of scenes +and observations which belong to the history of the discovery and +settlement of the country. + +Little, it is conceived, need be said, to enable the reader to determine +the author's position on the frontiers of Missouri and Arkansas in 1818. +He had passed the summer and fall of that year in investigating the +geological structure and mineral resources of the lead-mine district of +Missouri. He had discovered the isolated primitive tract on the sources +of the St. Francis and Grand rivers--the "Coligoa" of the Spanish +adventurer--and he felt a strong impulse to explore the regions west of +it, to determine the extent of this formation, and fix its geological +relations between the primitive ranges of the Alleghany and Rocky +mountains. + +Reports represented it as an alpine tract, abounding in picturesque +valleys and caves, and replete with varied mineral resources, but +difficult to penetrate on account of the hostile character of the Osage +and Pawnee Indians. He recrossed the Mississippi to the American bottom +of Illinois, to lay his plan before a friend and fellow-traveller in an +earlier part of his explorations, Mr. Ebenezer Brigham, of +Massachusetts, who agreed to unite in the enterprise. He then proceeded +to St. Louis, where Mr. Pettibone, a Connecticut man, and a +fellow-voyager on the Alleghany river, determined also to unite in this +interior journey. The place of rendezvous was appointed at Potosi, +about forty miles west of the Mississippi. Each one was to share in the +preparations, and some experienced hunters and frontiersmen were to join +in the expedition. But it turned out, when the day of starting arrived, +that each one of the latter persons found some easy and good excuse for +declining to go, principally on the ground that they were poor men, and +could not leave supplies for their families during so long a period of +absence. Both the other gentlemen came promptly to the point, though one +of them was compelled by sickness to return; and my remaining companion +and myself plunged into the wilderness with a gust of adventure and +determination, which made amends for whatever else we lacked. + +It is only necessary to add, that the following journal narrates the +incidents of the tour. The narrative is drawn up from the original +manuscript journal in my possession. Outlines of parts of it, were +inserted in the pages of the Belles-lettres Repository, by Mr. Van +Winkle, soon after my return to New York, in 1819; from whence they were +transferred by Sir Richard Phillips to his collection of Voyages and +Travels, London, 1821. This latter work has never been republished in +the United States. + +In preparing the present volume, after so considerable a lapse of time, +it has been thought proper to omit all such topics as are not deemed of +permanent or historical value. The scientific facts embraced in the +appendix, on the mines and mineralogy of Missouri, are taken from my +publication on these subjects. In making selections and revisions from a +work which was at first hastily prepared, I have availed myself of the +advantage of subsequent observation on the spot, as well as of the +suggestions and critical remarks made by men of judgment and science. + +A single further remark may be made: The term Ozark is applied to a +broad, elevated district of highlands, running from north to south, +centrally, through the States of Missouri and Arkansas. It has on its +east the striking and deep alluvial tract of the Mississippi river, and, +on its west, the woodless buffalo plains or deserts which stretch below +the Rocky Mountains. The Osage Indians, who probably furnish origin for +the term, have occupied all its most remarkable gorges and eminences, +north of the Arkansas, from the earliest historical times; and this +tribe, with the Pawnees ("Apana"), are supposed to have held this +position ever since the days of De Soto. + + WASHINGTON, January 20, 1853. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + INTRODUCTION Page 13 + + + CHAPTER I. + + Junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi--Difficulty of Ascending + the latter with a Barge--Its turbid and rapid Character--Incidents + of the Voyage--Physical Impediments to its Navigation--Falling-in + Banks--Tiawapati--Animals--Floating Trees--River at Night--Needless + and laughable Alarm--Character of the Shores--Men give out--Reach + the first fast Lands--Mineral Products--Cape Girardeau--Moccasin + Spring--Non-poetic geographical Names--Grand Tower--Struggle to + pass Cape Garlic. 22 + + + CHAPTER II. + + Pass Cape Garlic--Obrazo River--Cliffs--Emigrants--Cape St. Comb + --Bois Brule Bottom--Paroquet--Fort Chartres--Kaskaskia--St. + Genevieve--M. Breton--The Mississippi deficient in Fish-- + Antiquities--Geology--Steamer--Herculaneum--M. Austin, Esq., the + Pioneer to Texas--Journey on foot to St. Louis--Misadventures on + the Maramec--Its Indian Name--Carondelet--St. Louis, its fine Site + and probable future Importance--St. Louis Mounds not artificial-- + Downward Pressure of the diluvial Drift of the Mississippi. 32 + + + CHAPTER III. + + Resolve to proceed further West--Night Voyage on the Mississippi + in a Skiff--An Adventure--Proceed on foot West to the Missouri + Mines--Incidents by the Way--Miners' Village of Shibboleth-- + Compelled by a Storm to pass the Night at Old Mines--Reach Potosi + --Favourable Reception by the mining Gentry--Pass several Months + in examining the Mines--Organize an Expedition to explore Westward + --Its Composition--Discouragements on setting out--Proceed, + notwithstanding--Incidents of the Journey to the Valley of Leaves. 43 + + + CHAPTER IV. + + Horses elope--Desertion of our Guide--Encamp on one of the Sources + of Black River--Head-waters of the River Currents--Enter a + romantic Sub-Valley--Saltpetre Caves--Description of Ashley's Cave + --Encampment there--Enter an elevated Summit--Calamarca, an unknown + Stream--encounter four Bears--North Fork of White River. 54 + + + CHAPTER V. + + Descend the Valley--Its Difficulties--Horse rolls down a Precipice + --Purity of the Water--Accident caused thereby--Elkhorn Spring-- + Tower Creek--Horse plunges over his depth in Fording, and destroys + whatever is deliquescent in his pack--Absence of Antiquities, or + Evidences of ancient Habitation--a remarkable Cavern--Pinched for + Food--Old Indian Lodges--The Beaver--A deserted Pioneer's Camp-- + Incident of the Pumpkin. 65 + + + CHAPTER VI. + + Abandon our Camp and Horse in search of Settlements--Incidents of + the first Day--Hear a Shot--Camp in an old Indian Lodge--Acorns + for Supper--Kill a Woodpecker--Incidents of the second Day-- + Sterile Ridges--Want of Water--Camp at Night in a deep Gorge-- + Incidents of the third Day--Find a Horse-path, and pursue it-- + Discover a Man on Horseback--Reach a Hunter's Cabin--Incidents + there--He conducts us back to our old Camp--Deserted there without + Provisions--Deplorable State--Shifts--Taking of a Turkey. 74 + + + CHAPTER VII. + + Proceed West--Bog our Horse--Cross the Knife Hills--Reach the + Unica, or White River--Abandon the Horse at a Hunter's, and + proceed with Packs--Objects of Pity--Sugar-Loaf Prairie--Camp + under a Cliff--Ford the Unica twice--Descend into a Cavern-- + Reach Beaver River, the highest Point of Occupancy by a Hunter + Population. 83 + + + CHAPTER VIII. + + Obstacle produced by the Fear of Osage Hostility--Means pursued to + overcome it--Natural Monuments of Denudation in the Limestone + Cliffs--Purity of the Water--Pebbles of Yellow Jasper--Complete + the Hunters' Cabins--A Job in Jewellery--Construct a Blowpipe from + Cane--What is thought of Religion. 93 + + + CHAPTER IX. + + Proceed into the Hunting-Country of the Osages--Diluvial Hills and + Plains--Bald Hill--Swan Creek--Osage Encampments--Form of the + Osage Lodge--The Habits of the Beaver--Discover a remarkable Cavern + in the Limestone Rock, having natural Vases of pure Water--Its + geological and metalliferous Character--Reach the Summit of the + Ozark Range, which is found to display a broad Region of fertile + Soil, overlying a mineral Deposit. 101 + + + CHAPTER X. + + Depart from the Cave--Character of the Hunters who guided the + Author--Incidents of the Route--A beautiful and fertile Country, + abounding in Game--Reach the extreme north-western Source of White + River--Discoveries of Lead-ore in a Part of its Bed--Encamp, and + investigate its Mineralogy--Character, Value, and History of the + Country--Probability of its having been traversed by De Soto in + 1541. 109 + + + CHAPTER XI. + + Severe winter Weather on the Summit of the Ozarks--False Alarm of + Indians--Danger of my Furnace, etc., being hereafter taken for + Antiquities--Proceed South--Animal Tracks in the Snow--Winoca or + Spirit Valley--Honey and the Honey-Bee--Buffalo-Bull Creek--Robe + of Snow--Mehausca Valley--Superstitious Experiment of the Hunters + --Arrive at Beaver Creek. 115 + + + CHAPTER XII. + + Descend White River in a Canoe--Its pure Water, Character, and + Scenery--Places of Stopping--Bear Creek--Sugar-Loaf Prairie--Big + Creek--A River Pedlar--Pot Shoals--Mouth of Little North Fork-- + Descend formidable Rapids, called the Bull Shoals--Stranded on + Rocks--A Patriarch Pioneer--Mineralogy--Antique Pottery and Bones + --Some Trace of De Soto--A Trip by Land--Reach the Mouth of the + Great North Fork. 120 + + + CHAPTER XIII. + + Detention at the Mouth of the Great North Fork--Natural History of + the Vicinity--Great Blocks of Quartz--Imposing Precipices of the + Calico Rock--A Characteristic of American Scenery--Cherokee + Occupancy of the Country between the White and Arkansas Rivers-- + Its Effects on the Pioneers--Question of the Fate of the Indian + Races--Iron-ore--Descent to the Arkansas Ferries--Leave the River + at this Point--Remarks on its Character and Productions. 128 + + + CHAPTER XIV. + + Ancient Spot of De Soto's crossing White River in 1542--Lameness + produced by a former Injury--Incidents of the Journey to the St. + Francis River--De Soto's ancient Marches and Adventures on this + River in the search after Gold--Fossil Salt--Copper--The ancient + Ranges of the Buffalo. 134 + + + CHAPTER XV. + + Proceed North--Incidents of the Route--A severe Tempest of Rain, + which swells the Stream--Change in the Geology of the Country-- + The ancient Coligoa of De Soto--A primitive and mineral Region-- + St. Michael--Mine a La Motte--Wade through Wolf Creek--A Deserted + House--Cross Grand River--Return to Potosi. 142 + + + PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST. + + Two Letters, addressed to the Hon. J. B. Thomas, U. S. Senate, + Washington. 146 + + + APPENDIX. + + MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES. + + 1. A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri. 153 + + 2. A Catalogue of the Minerals of the Mississippi Valley. 198 + + 3. Mineral Resources of the Western Country. A Letter to Gen. + C. G. Haines. 215 + + + GEOGRAPHY. + + 1. Missouri. 222 + + 2. Hot Springs of Washita. 231 + + 3. Memoir of White River. 233 + + 4. List of Steamboats on the Mississippi River in 1819. 239 + + + ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY. + + 1. Articles of curious Workmanship found in ancient Indian Graves. 241 + + 2. Ancient Indian Cemetery found in the Maramec Valley. 243 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +De Soto, in 1541, was the true discoverer of the Mississippi river, and +the first person who crossed it, who has left a narrative of that fact; +although it is evident that Cabaca de Vaca, the noted survivor of the +ill-fated expedition of Narvaez in 1528, must, in his extraordinary +pilgrimage between Florida and the eastern coasts of the gulf of +California, have crossed this river, perhaps before him; but he has not +distinctly mentioned it in his memoir. Narvaez himself was not the +discoverer of the mouth of the Mississippi, as some persons have +conjectured, inasmuch as he was blown off the coast and lost, east of +that point. The most careful tracing of the narrative of his voyage in +boats along the Florida shore, as given by De Vaca, does not carry him +beyond Mobile bay, or, at farthest, Perdido bay.[1] + +De Soto's death frustrated his plan of founding a colony of Spain in the +Mississippi valley; and that stream was allowed to roll its vast volume +into the gulf a hundred and thirty-two years longer, before it attracted +practical notice. Precisely at the end of this time, namely, in 1673, +Mons. Jolliet, accompanied by James Marquette, the celebrated +enterprising missionary of New France, entered the stream at the +confluence of the Wisconsin, in accordance with the policy, and a plan +of exploration, of the able, brave, and efficient governor-general of +Canada, the Count Frontenac. Marquette and his companion, who was the +chief of the expedition, but whose name has become secondary to his +own, descended it to the mouth of the Arkansas, the identical spot of De +Soto's demise. La Salle, some five or six years later, continued the +discovery to the gulf; and Hennepin extended it upward, from the point +where Marquette had entered it, to the falls of St. Anthony, and the +river St. Francis. And it is from this era of La Salle, the narrators of +whose enlarged plans, civic and ecclesiastical, recognised the Indian +geographical terminology, that it has retained its Algonquin name of +MISSISSIPPI. + +It is by no means intended to follow these initial facts by recitals of +the progress of the subsequent local discoveries in the Mississippi +valley, which were made respectively under French, British, and American +rule. Sufficient is it, for the present purpose, to say, that the thread +of the discovery of the Mississippi, north and west of the points named, +was not taken up effectively, till the acquisition of Louisiana. Mr. +Jefferson determined to explore the newly acquired territories, and +directed the several expeditions of discovery under Lewis and Clark, and +Lieut. Z. M. Pike. The former traced out the Missouri to its sources, +and followed the Columbia to the Pacific; while the latter continued the +discovery of the Mississippi river above St. Anthony's falls where +Hennepin, and perhaps Carver, had respectively left it. The map which +Pike published in 1810 contained, however, an error of a capital +geographical point, in regard to the actual source of the Mississippi. +He placed it in Turtle lake, at the source of Turtle river of upper _Lac +Cedre Rouge_, or Cass lake, which lies in the portage to Red lake of the +great Red River of the North, being in the ordinary route of the fur +trade to that region. + +In 1820, Mr. Calhoun, who determined to erect a cordon of military posts +to cover the remotest of the western settlements, at the same time that +he despatched Major Long to ascend to the Yellowstone of the Missouri, +directed the extreme upper Mississippi to be examined and traced out to +its source. This expedition, led by Gov. Cass, through the upper lakes, +reached the mouth of Turtle river of the large lake beyond the upper +cataract of the Mississippi, which has since borne the name of the +intrepid leader of the party. It was satisfactorily determined that +Turtle lake was not the source, nor even one of the main sources, of the +Mississippi; but that this river was discharged, in the integrity of its +volume, into the western end of Cass lake. To determine this point more +positively, and trace the river to its source, another expedition was +organized by the Department of War in 1832, and committed to me. Taking +up the line of discovery where it had been left in 1820, the river was +ascended up a series of rapids about forty miles north, to a large lake +called the Amigegoma; a few miles above which, it is constituted by two +forks, having a southern and western origin, the largest and longest of +which was found[2] to originate in Itasca lake, in north latitude 37 deg. +13'--a position not far north of Ottertail lake, in the highlands of +HAUTEUR DES TERRES. + +So far as the fact of De Soto's exploration of the country west of the +Mississippi, in the present area of Missouri and Arkansas, is concerned, +it is apprehended that the author of these incidents of travel has been +the first person to identify and explore this hitherto confused part of +the celebrated Spanish explorer's route. This has been traced from the +narrative, with the aid of the Indian lexicography, in the third volume +of his Indian History (p. 50), just published, accompanied by a map of +the entire route, from his first landing on the western head of Tampa +bay. Prior to the recital of these personal incidents, it may serve a +useful purpose to recall the state of geographical information at this +period. + +The enlarged and improved map of the British colonies, with the +geographical and historical analysis, accompanying it, of Lewis Evans, +which was published by B. Franklin in 1754, had a controlling effect on +all geographers and statesmen of the day, and was an important element +in diffusing a correct geographical knowledge of the colonies at large, +and particularly of the great valley of the Mississippi, agreeably to +modern ideas of its physical extent. It was a great work for the time, +and for many years remained the standard of reference. In some of its +features, it was never excelled. Mr. Jefferson quotes it, in his Notes +on Virginia, and draws from it some interesting opinions concerning +Indian history, as in the allusion to the locality and place of final +refuge of the Eries. It was from the period of the publication of this +memoir that the plan of an "Ohio colony," in which Dr. Franklin had an +active agency, appears to have had its origin. + +Lewis Evans was not only an eminent geographer himself, but his map and +memoir, as will appear on reference to them, embrace the discoveries of +his predecessors and contemporary explorers, as Conrad Wiser and others, +in the West. The adventurous military reconnoissance of Washington to +fort Le Boeuf, on lake Erie, was subsequent to this publication. + +Evans's map and analysis, being the best extant, served as the basis of +the published materials used for the topographical guidance of General +Braddock on his march over the Alleghany mountains. Washington, himself +an eminent geographer, was present in that memorable march; and so +judicious and well selected were its movements, through defiles and over +eminences, found to be, that the best results of engineering skill, when +the commissioners came to lay out the great Cumberland road, could not +mend them. Such continued also to be the basis of our general +geographical knowledge of the West, at the period of the final capture +of fort Du Quesne by General Forbes, and the change of its name in +compliment to the eminent British statesman, Pitt. + +The massacre of the British garrison of Michilimackinac in 1763, the +investment of the fort of Detroit in the same year by a combined force +of Indian tribes, and the development of an extensive conspiracy, as it +has been termed, against the western British posts under Pontiac, +constituted a new feature in American history; and the military +expeditions of Cols. Bouquet and Bradstreet, towards the West and +North-west, were the consequence. These movements became the means of a +more perfect geographical knowledge respecting the West than had before +prevailed. Hutchinson's astronomical observations, which were made under +the auspices of Bouquet, fixed accurately many important points in the +Mississippi valley, and furnished a framework for the military narrative +of the expedition. In fact, the triumphant march of Bouquet into the +very strongholds of the Indians west of the Ohio, first brought them +effectually to terms; and this expedition had the effect to open the +region to private enterprise. + +The defeat of the Indians by Major Gladwyn at Detroit had tended to the +same end; and the more formal march of Colonel Bradstreet, in 1764, +still further contributed to show the aborigines the impossibility of +their recovering the rule in the West. Both these expeditions, at +distant points, had a very decided tendency to enlarge the boundaries of +geographical discovery in the West, and to stimulate commercial +enterprise. + +The Indian trade had been carried to fort Pitt the very year of its +capture by the English forces; and it may serve to give an idea of the +commercial daring and enterprise of the colonists to add, that, so early +as 1766, only two years after Bouquet's expedition, the leading house of +Baynton, Wharton & Morgan, of Philadelphia, had carried that branch of +trade through the immense lines of forest and river wilderness to fort +Chartres, the military capital of the Illinois, on the Mississippi.[3] +Its fertile lands were even then an object of scarcely less avidity.[4] +Mr. Alexander Henry had, even a year or two earlier, carried this trade +to Michilimackinac; and the English flag, the symbol of authority with +the tribes, soon began to succeed that of France, far and wide. The +Indians, finding the French flag had really been struck finally, +submitted, and the trade soon fell, in every quarter, into English +hands. + +The American revolution, beginning within ten years of this time, was +chiefly confined to the regions east of the Alleghanies. The war for +territory west of this line was principally carried on by Virginia, +whose royal governors had more than once marched to maintain her +chartered rights on the Ohio. Her blood had often freely flowed on this +border, and, while the great and vital contest still raged in the +Atlantic colonies, she ceased not with a high hand to defend it, +attacked as it was by the fiercest and most deadly onsets of the +Indians. + +In 1780, General George Rogers Clark, the commander of the Virginia +forces, visited the vicinity of the mouth of the Ohio, by order of the +governor of Virginia, for the purpose of selecting the site for a fort, +which resulted in the erection of fort Jefferson, some few miles (I +think) below the influx of the Ohio, on the eastern bank of the +Mississippi. The United States were then in the fifth year of the war of +independence. All its energies were taxed to the utmost extent in this +contest; and not the least of its cares arose from the Indian tribes who +hovered with deadly hostility on its western borders. It fell to the lot +of Clark, who was a man of the greatest energy of character, chivalric +courage, and sound judgment, to capture the posts of Kaskaskia and +Vincennes, in the Illinois, with inadequate forces at his command, and +through a series of almost superhuman toils. And we are indebted to +these conquests for the enlarged western boundary inserted in the +definitive treaty of peace, signed at Paris in 1783. Dr. Franklin, who +was the ablest geographer among the commissioners, made a triumphant use +of these conquests; and we are thus indebted to George Rogers Clark for +the acquisition of the Mississippi valley. + +American enterprise in exploring the country may be said to date from +the time of the building of fort Jefferson; but it was not till the +close of the revolutionary war, in 1783, that the West became the +favorite theatre of action of a class of bold, energetic, and patriotic +men, whose biographies would form a very interesting addition to our +literature. It is to be hoped that such a work may be undertaken and +completed before the materials for it, are beyond our reach. How +numerous this class of men were, and how quickly they were followed by a +hardy and enterprising population, who pressed westward from the +Atlantic borders, may be inferred from the fact that the first State +formed west of the Ohio river, required but twenty years from the treaty +of peace for its complete organization. Local histories and cyclical +memoirs have been published in some parts of the West, which, though +scarcely known beyond the precincts of their origin, possess their chief +value as affording a species of historical material for this +investigation. Pioneer life in the West must, indeed, hereafter +constitute a prolific source of American reminiscence; but it may be +doubted whether any comprehensive work on the subject will be +effectively undertaken, while any of this noble band of public +benefactors are yet on the stage of life. + +The acquisition of Louisiana, in 1803, became the period from which may +be dated the first efforts of the United States' government to explore +the public domain. The great extent of the territory purchased from +France, stretching west to the Pacific ocean--its unknown boundaries on +the south, west, and north--and the importance and variety of its +reputed resources, furnished the subjects which led the Executive, Mr. +Jefferson, to direct its early exploration. The expeditions named of +Lewis and Clark to Oregon, and of Pike to the sources of the +Mississippi, were the consequence. Pike did not publish the results of +his search till 1810. Owing to the death of Governor Meriwether Lewis, a +still greater delay attended the publication of the details of the +former expedition, which did not appear till 1814. No books had been +before published, which diffused so much local geographical knowledge. +The United States were then engaged in the second war with Great +Britain, during which the hostility of the western tribes precluded +explorations, except such as could be made under arms. The treaty of +Ghent brought the belligerent parties to terms; but the intelligence did +not reach the country in season to prevent the battle of New Orleans, +which occurred in January 1815. + +Letters from correspondents in the West, which were often published by +the diurnal press, and the lectures of Mr. W. Darby on western and +general geography, together with verbal accounts and local publications, +now poured a flood of information respecting the fertility and resources +of that region, and produced an extensive current of emigration. +Thousands were congregated at single points, waiting to embark on its +waters. The successful termination of the war had taken away all fear of +Indian hostility. The tribes had suffered a total defeat at all points, +their great leader Tecumseh had fallen, and there was no longer a basis +for any new combinations to oppose the advances of civilization. +Military posts were erected to cover the vast line of frontiers on the +west and north, and thus fully to occupy the lines originally secured by +the treaty of 1783. In 1816, Mr. J. J. Astor, having purchased the +North-west Company's posts, lying south of latitude 49 deg., established the +central point of his trade at Michilimackinac. A military post was +erected by the government at the falls of St. Anthony, and another at +Council Bluffs on the Missouri. The knowledge of the geography and +resources of the western country was thus practically extended, although +no publication, so far as I am aware, was made on this subject. + +In the fall of 1816, I determined to visit the Mississippi valley--a +resolution which brought me into the situations narrated in the +succeeding volume. In the three ensuing years I visited a large part of +the West, and explored a considerable portion of Missouri and Arkansas, +in which De Soto alone, I believe, had, in 1542, preceded me. My first +publication on the results of these explorations was made at New York, +in 1819. De Witt Clinton was then on the stage of action, and Mr. +Calhoun, with his grasping intellect, directed the energies of the +government in exploring the western domain, which, he foresaw, as he +told me, must exercise a controlling influence on the destinies of +America. + +In the spring of 1818, Major S. H. Long, U. S. A., was selected by the +War Office to explore the Missouri as high as the Yellowstone, and, +accompanied by a corps of naturalists from Philadelphia, set out from +Pittsburgh in a small steamer. The results of this expedition were in +the highest degree auspicious to our knowledge of the actual topography +and natural history of the far West, and mark a period in their +progress. It was about this time that Colonel H. Leavenworth was +directed to ascend the Mississippi, and establish a garrison at the +mouth of the St. Peter's or Minnesota river. Early in 1820, the War +Department directed an exploratory expedition to be organized at +Detroit, under the direction of Lewis Cass, Esq., Governor of Michigan +Territory, for the purpose of surveying the upper lakes, and determining +the area at the sources of the Mississippi--its physical character, +topography, and Indian population. In the scientific corps of this +expedition, I received from the Secretary of War the situation of +mineralogist and geologist, and published a narrative of it. This +species of public employment was repeated in 1821, during which I +explored the Miami of the Lakes, and the Wabash and Illinois; and my +position assumed a permanent form, in another department of the service, +in 1822, when I took up my residence in the great area of the upper +lakes. + +It is unnecessary to the purposes of this sketch to pursue these details +further than to say, that the position I occupied was favorable to the +investigation of the mineral constitution and natural history of the +country, and also of the history, antiquities, and languages and +customs, of the Indian tribes. For a series of years, the name of the +author has been connected with the progress of discovery and research on +these subjects. Events controlled him in the publication of separate +volumes of travels, some of which were, confessedly, incomplete in their +character, and hasty in their preparation. Had he never trespassed on +public attention in this manner, he would not venture, with his present +years, and more matured conceptions of a species of labor, where the +difficulties are very great, the chances of applause doubtful, and the +rewards, under the most favorable auspices, very slender. As it is, +there is a natural desire that what has been done, and may be quoted +when he has left this feverish scene and gone to his account, should be +put in the least exceptionable form. Hence the revision of these +travels. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[1] Vide Narr. of Cabaca de Vaca, Smith's Tr., 1851. + +[2] 291 years after De Soto's discovery, and 159 after Marquette's. + +[3] MS. Journal of Matthew Clarkson, in the possession of Wm. Duane, +Esq., Philadelphia. + +[4] Ibid. + + + + +INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + + JUNCTION OF THE OHIO WITH THE MISSISSIPPI--DIFFICULTY OF + ASCENDING THE LATTER WITH A BARGE--ITS TURBID AND RAPID + CHARACTER--INCIDENTS OF THE VOYAGE--PHYSICAL IMPEDIMENTS + TO ITS NAVIGATION--FALLING-IN BANKS--TIAWAPATI--ANIMALS + --FLOATING TREES--RIVER AT NIGHT--NEEDLESS AND LAUGHABLE + ALARM--CHARACTER OF THE SHORES--MEN GIVE OUT--REACH THE + FIRST FAST LANDS--MINERAL PRODUCTS--CAPE GIRARDEAU-- + MOCCASIN SPRING--NON-POETIC GEOGRAPHICAL NAMES--GRAND + TOWER--STRUGGLE TO PASS CAPE GARLIC. + + +I reached the junction of the Ohio with the Mississippi on the last day +of June, 1818, with feelings somewhat akin to those of one who performs +a pilgrimage;--for that Algonquin name of Mississippi had been floating +through my mind ever since boyhood, as if it had been invested with a +talismanic power. + +The reading of books of geography, however, makes but a feeble +impression on the mind, compared to the actual objects. Born on one of +the tributaries of the Hudson--a stream whose whole length, from the +junction of the Mohawk, is less than two hundred miles--I had never +figured to myself rivers of such magnificent length and velocity. I had +now followed down the Ohio, in all its windings, one thousand miles; it +was not only the longest, but the most beautiful river which I had ever +seen; and I felt something like regret to find it at last swallowed up, +as it were, by the turbid and repulsive Mississippi. The latter was at +its summer flood, and rushed by like a torrent, which seemed to be +overcharged with the broken-down materials of half a continent. + +De Soto had been the first European to gaze upon this heady mass of +waters, urging downward everything that comes within their influence, +and threatening to carry even their own banks into the gulf. We came, in +a large, heavily-manned barge, to the very point of the influx of the +Ohio, where Cairo is now located. It was early in the afternoon; but the +captain of our craft, who was a stout-hearted fellow, of decision of +character and a full-toned voice, deemed it best to come-to here, and +wait till morning to grapple with the Mississippi. There were some old +arks on the point, which had been landed in high water, and were now +used as houses; but I retained my berth in the barge, and, after looking +around the vicinity, amused myself by angling from the sides of the +vessel. The only fish I caught was a gar--that almost single variety of +the voracious species in these waters, which has a long bill, with sharp +teeth, for arousing its prey, apparently, from a muddy bottom. The +junction of two such streams as the Ohio and Mississippi, exhibits a +remarkable struggle. For miles, along the eastern shores of the +Mississippi, the clear blue waters of the Ohio are crowded to the banks; +while the furious current of the former, like some monster, finally +gulps it down, though the mastery is not obtained, I am told, till near +the Chickasaw bluffs. + +Early in the morning (1st July), the voice of the captain was heard, and +the men paraded the sides of the deck, with their long poles shod with +iron; and we were soon in the gurgling, muddy channel, struggling along +its eastern shore. The men plied their poles with the skill of veterans, +planting them as near the margin of the channel as possible, and placing +the head of the pole against the shoulder, while they kept their footing +by means of slats nailed across the footway. With every exertion, we +made but five miles the first day. This slowness of ascent was, however, +very favorable to observation. I was the only passenger on board, except +two adventurers from the Youghioghany, in Western Pennsylvania, who had +freighted the barge, and were in the position of supercargoes. Such +tugging and toiling I had never before seen. It seemed to me that no set +of men could long stand it. The current ran as if it were charged with +power to sweep everything down its course. Its banks were not proof +against this impetuosity, and frequently fell in, with a noise and power +which threatened to overwhelm us. This danger was often increased by the +floating trees, which had fallen into the stream at higher points. And +when, after a severe day's toil, the captain ordered the boat to be +moored for the night, we felt an insecurity from the fear that the bank +itself might prove treacherous before morning. + +Nothing in the structure of the country appeared to present a very fixed +character. The banks of the river were elevated from ten to fifteen feet +above the water, and consisted of a dark alluvium, bearing a dense +forest. When they became too precipitous, which was an indication that +the water at these points was too deep for the men to reach bottom with +their poles, they took their oars, and crossed to the other bank. When +night came on, in these damp alluvions, and darkness was added to our +danger, the scene was indeed gloomy. I remember, this evening, we tried +most perseveringly to drink our tea by a feeble light, which appeared to +be a signal for the collection of insects far and near, who, by their +numbers and the fierceness of their attacks, made it impossible to bring +our cups to our mouths without stopping to brush away the fierce and +greedy hordes of mosquitoes. Amongst the growth, cane and cotton-wood +were most conspicuous. + +I had a specimen of boatman manners to-day, which should not certainly +be a subject of surprise, considering the rough-and-ready life and +character of that class. Having laid down on the top deck of the barge a +mineralogical specimen to which I attached value, and gone temporarily +away, I found, on my return, that it had been knocked to pieces by one +of the men, who acted, probably, like the boy who broke the fiddle, "to +get the music out" of it. On expressing my disapproval of this, to one +who evidently had not the most distant idea of the scientific value of +"a stone," he made some trite remark, that "there was more where this +came from," and then, stretching himself up at his full length of six +feet, with sinews which had plainly become tense and hard from the use +of the setting-pole, he exclaimed, "Help yourself!" + + +July 2d. The toils of this day were similar to those of the last. It was +a perpetual struggle to overcome the force of the current by poles +placed in the bed, and, when that became too deep, we sought for +shallower shores. We encountered the same growth of trees along the +banks. The land became somewhat more elevated. The insects were in such +hordes, that it was amazing. We proceeded but about six miles to-day, +and they were miles of incessant toil. + + +July 3d. To the ordinary dangers and efforts of this day, were added the +frequent occurrence of snags and sawyers, or planters--terms which +denote some of the peculiar impediments of Mississippi navigation. The +captain of our craft, who was a courageous and vigilant man, was +continually on the look-out to avoid these dangers, and put-to, at +night, at the foot of a large cane-covered island, by which he avoided, +in some measure, the sweep of the current, but was yet in jeopardy from +falling-in banks. He requested me, in this exigency, to take a pole, +and, from the bow, sound for bottom, as we crossed the river, to avoid +shoals. This I did successfully. We estimated our ascent this day at +seven miles. + + +July 4th. The perils and toils of the crew did not prevent their +remembrance of the national anniversary; and the captain acknowledged +their appeal in the morning by an extra measure of "old Monongahela." We +then set forward against the wild, raging current. From the appearance +of the wild turkey and large grey squirrel ashore, it is probable that +we are passing out of the inundated region. In other respects, the face +of the country and its productions appear the same. After ascending +about six miles, when the time approached for looking out for a place to +moor for the night, a storm of wind suddenly arose, which dashed the +water into the barge. We put ashore in haste, at a precipitous bank of +an island, which fell in during the night very near to us, and put us in +momentary peril. To leave our position in the dark, would be to take the +risk of running afoul of snags, or encountering floating trees; but as +early as the light appeared on the morning of the 5th, we left the spot +immediately, crossing to the western bank. By diligence we made eight +miles this day, which brought us to the first settlement at Tiawapeta +bottom, on the Missouri shore. This is the first land that appears +sufficiently elevated for cultivation. The settlement consists of six or +eight farms, where corn, flax, hemp, potatoes, and tobacco, are +abundantly raised. The peach and apple-tree also thrive. I observed the +papaw and persimmon among the wild fruits. + + +July 6th. The downward movement of the water, and its gurgling and rush +as it meets with obstacles, is very audible after the barge has been +fastened to the shore for the night, when its fearful impetuosity, +surcharged as it is with floating wrecks of forest life, is impressive +to the listener, while night has thrown her dark pall over the scene. + +Early in the morning, the oarsmen and polemen were at their masculine +toils. I had feared that such intense application of muscle, in pushing +forward the boat, would exhaust their strength; and we had not gone over +three miles this day, when we were obliged to lay-by for the want of +more competent hands. The complaining men were promptly paid, and +furnished with provisions to return. While detained by this +circumstance, we were passed by a boat of similar construction to our +own, laden with planks from Olean, on the sources of the Alleghany +river, in New York. This article had been transported already more than +thirteen hundred miles, on its way to a market at St. Louis, where it +was estimated to be worth sixty dollars per thousand feet. + +While moored along this coast, the day after we had thus escaped from +the treacherous island, we seemed to have taken shelter along a shore +infested by wild beasts. "Grizzly bear!" was the cry at night. We were +all alarmed by a snorting and disturbance at the water's edge, a short +distance below us, which, it was soon evident, proceeded from a _large_, +light-colored, and furious animal. So far, all agreed. One of our +Pennsylvanians, who had a choice rifle, prepared himself for the attack. +The captain, who had no lack of resolution, and would, at any rate, have +become bold by battling the Mississippi river for six or seven days, had +some missiles; and all prepared to be useful on the occasion. As I +carried nothing more deadly than a silver crucible and some acids, I +remained on the upper deck of the barge. From this elevation I soon saw, +by the dim moonlight, the whole party return, without having fired a +gun. It turned out that the cause of this unusual disturbance was a +large white hog, which had been shot in the head and snout with +swan-shot, by some cruel fellows, the preceding day, and came at night +to mitigate its burning and festering wounds by bathing in the river. + + +July 7th. Having procured some additional hands, our invincible captain +pressed stoutly forward, and, at an early hour, we reached the head of +Tiawapeta bottom, where a short stop was made. At this point, the bed of +the Mississippi appears to be crossed by a chain of rocks, which oppose, +however, no obstruction to its navigation. Such masses of it as appear +on shore, are silico-carbonates of lime, and seem to belong to the +metalliferous system of Missouri. About half a mile above the +commencement of this chain, I observed, at the foot of an elevation near +the water's edge, a remarkable stratum of white aluminous earth, of a +rather dry and friable character, resembling chalk, and which, I +afterwards observed, was extensively used by mechanics in Missouri as a +substitute for that article. Masses, and in some instances nodules, of +hornstone, resembling true flint, are found imbedded in it; yet it is +not to be confounded with the chalk formation. It yields no +effervescence with nitric, and is wholly destitute of carbonic, acid. +Portions of the stratum are colored deeply by the red oxide of iron. +Scattered along the shores of the river at this place, I observed large, +angular masses of pudding-stone, consisting chiefly of silicious pebbles +and sand, cemented by oxide of iron. + +I now began to breathe more freely. For seven days we had been passing +through such a nascent region, down which the Mississippi swept at so +furious a rate, that I never felt sure, at night, that I should behold +another day. Had the barge, any day, lost her heading and got athwart +the stream, nothing could have prevented the water from rushing over her +gunwales, and sweeping her to destruction. And the whole district of the +alluvial banks was subject to be momentarily undermined, and frequently +tumbled in, with the noise and fury of an avalanche, threatening +destruction to whatever was in the vicinity. + +Owing to the increased firmness of the shore, and the reinforcement of +hands, we ascended this day ten miles. We began to feel in better +spirits. + + +July 8th. The calcareous and elevated formation of rocks, covered with +geological drift, continued constantly along the Missouri shore; for it +was this shore, and not the Illinois side, that we generally hugged. +This drift, on ascending the elevations, consisted of a hard and reddish +loam, or marly clay, filled with pebble-stones of various kinds, and +fragments and chips of hornstone, chert, common jasper, argillaceous +oxide of iron, radiated quartz, and quartz materials, betokening the +disruption, in ancient eras, of prior formations. The trees observed on +the diluvial elevations were oaks, sassafras, and, on the best lands, +walnut, but of sparse growth; with a dense forest of cotton-wood, +sycamore, and elm, on the alluvions. On ascending the river five miles, +we came to the town of Cape Girardeau, consisting of about fifty wooden +buildings of all sorts, with a post-office and two stores. We were now +at the computed distance of fifty miles above the influx of the Ohio. We +went no farther that day. This gave me an opportunity to explore the +vicinity. + +I had not yet put my foot ashore, when a fellow-passenger brought me a +message from one of the principal merchants of the place, desiring me to +call at his store, and aid him in the examination of some drugs and +medicines which he had newly received. On reaching his store, I was +politely ushered into a back room, where some refreshments were +handsomely set out. The whole thing was, in fact, designed as a friendly +welcome to a professional man, who came neither to sell nor buy, but +simply to inquire into the resources and natural history of the country. +At this trait of hospitality and appreciation in a stranger, I took +courage, and began to perceive that the West might be relied on. + +I found the town of Cape Girardeau situated on an elevation of rich, +red, marly soil, highly charged with oxide of iron, which is +characteristic of the best arable soils of the mine country. This soil +appears to be very readily dissolved in water, and carried off rapidly +by rains, which furnishes a solution to the deep gulfs and gorges that +disfigure many parts of the cultivated high grounds. If such places were +sown with the seeds of grass, it would give fixity to the soil, and add +much to the beauty of the landscape. + + +July 9th. We resumed our journey up the rapid stream betimes, but, with +every exertion, ascended only seven miles. The river, in this distance, +preserves its general character; the Missouri shores being rocky and +elevated, while the vast alluvial tracts of the Illinois banks spread +out in densely wooded bottoms. But, while the Missouri shores create the +idea of greater security by their fixity, and freedom from treacherous +alluvions, this very fixity of rocky banks creates jets of strong +currents, setting around points, which require the greatest exertions of +the bargemen to overcome. To aid them in these exigencies, the +_cordelle_ is employed. This consists of a stout rope fastened to a +block in the bow of the barge, which is then passed over the shoulders +of the men, who each at the same time grasp it, and lean hard forward. + + +July 10th. To me, the tardiness of our ascent, after reaching the rock +formations, was extremely favorable, as it facilitated my examinations. +Every day the mineralogy of the western banks became more interesting, +and I was enabled daily to add something to my collection. This day, I +picked up a large fragment of the pseudo pumice which is brought down +the Missouri by its summer freshets. This mineral appears to have been +completely melted; and its superficies is so much enlarged by vesicles +filled with air, and its specific gravity thereby so much reduced, as to +permit it to float in water. We encamped this evening, after an ascent +of seven miles, at a spot called the Moccasin Spring, which is contained +in a crevice in a depressed part of the limestone formation. + + +July 11th. This day was signalized by our being passed by a small +steamer of forty tons burden, called the Harriet, laden with merchandise +for St. Louis. Viewed from our stand-point, she seemed often nearly +stationary, and sometimes receded, in her efforts to stem the fierce +current; but she finally ascended, slowly and with labor. The pressure +of the stream, before mentioned, against the rocky barrier of the +western banks, was found, to-day, to be very strong. With much ado, with +poles and cordelle, we made but five miles. + + +July 12th. We passed the mouth of Great Muddy river, on the Illinois +shore, this morning. This stream, it is said, affords valuable beds of +coal. The name of the river does not appear to be very poetic, nor very +characteristic, in a region where every tributary stream is muddy; the +Mississippi itself being muddy above all others. But, thanks to the +Indians, they have not embodied that idea in the name of the Father of +rivers; its greatness, with them, being justly deemed by far its most +characteristic trait. + +About two miles above this locality, we came to one of the geological +wonders of the Mississippi, called the Grand Tower. It is a pile of +limestone rocks, rising precipitously from the bed of the river in a +circular form, resembling a massive castle. The height of this +geological monument may be about one hundred feet. It is capped by some +straggling cedars, which have caught a footing in the crevices. It +might, with as much propriety as one of the Alps, be called the Jungfrau +(Virgin); for it seems impossible that any human being should ever have +ascended it. The main channel of the river passes east of it. There is a +narrower channel on the west, which is apparently more dangerous. We +crossed the river below this isolated cliff, and landed at some +cavernous rocks on the Illinois side, which the boatmen, with the usual +propensity of unlettered men, called the Devil's Oven. We then recrossed +the river, and, after ascending a distance along the western shore, were +repulsed in an attempt, with the cordelle, to pass Garlic Point. The +captain then made elaborate preparations for a second attempt, but again +failed. A third effort, with all our appliances, was resolved on, but +with no better success; and we came-to, finally, for the night, in an +eddy below the point, having advanced, during the day, seven miles. If +we did not make rapid progress, I had good opportunities of seeing the +country, and of contemplating this majestic river in one of its most +characteristic phases--namely, its summer flood. I pleased myself by +fancying, as I gazed upon its rushing eddies of mud and turbid matter, +that I at least beheld a part of the Rocky mountains, passing along _in +the liquid state_! It was a sight that would have delighted the eyes of +Hutton; for methinks the quantity of detritus and broken-down strata +would not have required, in his mind, many cycles to upbuild a +continent. + + Mountains to chaos are by waters hurled, + And re-create the geologic world. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + + PASS CAPE GARLIC--OBRAZO RIVER--CLIFFS--EMIGRANTS--CAPE ST. + COMB--BOIS BRULE BOTTOM--PAROQUET--FORT CHARTRES--KASKASKIA + --ST. GENEVIEVE--M. BRETON--THE MISSISSIPPI DEFICIENT IN + FISH--ANTIQUITIES--GEOLOGY--STEAMER--HERCULANEUM--M. AUSTIN, + ESQ., THE PIONEER TO TEXAS--JOURNEY ON FOOT TO ST. LOUIS-- + MISADVENTURES ON THE MARAMEC--ITS INDIAN NAME--CARONDELET-- + ST. LOUIS, ITS FINE SITE AND PROBABLE FUTURE IMPORTANCE--ST. + LOUIS MOUNDS NOT ARTIFICIAL--DOWNWARD PRESSURE OF THE + DILUVIAL DRIFT OF THE MISSISSIPPI. + + +July 13th. We renewed the attempt to pass Cape Garlic at an early hour, +and succeeded after a protracted and severe trial. But two of our best +men immediately declared their unwillingness to proceed farther in these +severe labors, in which they were obliged to pull like oxen; and they +were promptly paid off by the captain, and permitted to return. The +crew, thus diminished, went on a short distance further with the barge, +and came-to at the mouth of the Obrazo river, to await the effort of our +commander to procure additional hands. We had not now advanced more than +two miles, which constituted the sum of this day's progress. While +moored here, we were passed by four boats filled with emigrants from +Vermont and Western New York, destined for Boon's Lick, on the Missouri. +I embraced the occasion of this delay to make some excursions in the +vicinity. + + +July 14th. Having been successful in obtaining a reinforcement of hands +from the interior, we pursued the ascent, and made six miles along the +Missouri shore. The next day (15th) we ascended seven miles. This +leisurely tracing of the coast revealed to me some of the minutest +features of its geological structure. The cliffs consist of horizontal +strata of limestone, resting on granular crystalline sandstone. Nothing +can equal the beauty of the varying landscape presented for the last two +days. There has appeared a succession of the most novel and interesting +objects. Whatever pleasure can be derived from the contemplation of +natural objects, presented in surprising and picturesque groups, can +here be enjoyed in the highest degree. Even art may be challenged to +contrast, with more effect, the bleak and rugged cliff with the verdant +forest, the cultivated field, or the wide-extended surface of the +Mississippi, interspersed with its beautiful islands, and winding +majestically through a country, which only requires the improvements of +civilized and refined society, to render it one of the most delightful +residences of man. Nor is it possible to contemplate the vast extent, +fertility, resources, and increasing population of this immeasurable +valley, without feeling a desire that our lives could be prolonged to an +unusual period, that we might survey, an hundred years hence, the +improved social and political condition of the country, and live to +participate in its advantages, improvements, and power. + +All the emigrants whom we have passed seem to be buoyed up by a hopeful +and enterprising character; and, although most of them are manifestly +from the poorest classes, and are from twelve to fifteen hundred miles +on their adventurous search for a new home, from none have I heard a +word of despondency. + + +July 16th. I observed to-day, at Cape St. Comb, large angular fragments +of a species of coarse granular sandstone rock, which appear to be +_disjecta membra_ of a much more recent formation than that underlying +the prevalent surface formation. + +The gay and noisy paroquet was frequently seen, this day, wheeling in +flocks over the river; and at one point, which was revealed suddenly, we +beheld a large flock of pelicans standing along a low, sandy peninsula. +Either the current, during to-day's voyage, was less furious, or the +bargemen exerted more strength or skill; for we ascended ten miles, and +encamped at the foot of _Bois Brule_ (Burnt-wood) bottom. The term +"bottom" is applied, in the West, to extensive tracts of level and +arable alluvial soil, whether covered by, or denuded of, native forest +trees. We found it the commencement of a comparatively populous and +flourishing settlement, having on the next day (17th) passed along its +margin for seven miles. Its entire length is twelve miles. + + +July 18th. The most prominent incidents of this day were the passing, on +the Illinois shore, of the celebrated site of fort Chartres, and the +influx of the Kaskaskia (or, as it is abbreviated by the men, _Ocaw_ or +_Caw_) river--a large stream on the eastern shore. These names will +recall some of the earliest and most stirring scenes of Illinois +history. The town of Kaskaskia, which is the present seat of the +territorial government, is seated seven miles above its mouth. + +Fort Chartres is now a ruin, and, owing to the capricious channel of the +Mississippi, is rapidly tumbling into it. It had been a regular work, +built of stone, according to the principles of military art. Its walls +formerly contained not only the chief element of military power in +French Illinois, but also sheltered the ecclesiastics and traders of the +time. In an old manuscript journal of that fort which I have seen, a +singular custom of the Osages is mentioned, on the authority of one +Mons. Jeredot. He says (Dec. 22, 1766) that they have a feast, which +they generally celebrate about the month of March, when they bake a +large (corn) cake of about three or four feet diameter, and of two or +three inches thickness. This is cut into pieces, from the centre to the +circumference; and the principal chief or warrior arises and advances to +the cake, when he declares his valor, and recounts his noble actions. If +he is not contradicted, or none has aught to allege against him, he +takes a piece of the cake, and distributes it among the boys of the +nation, repeating to them his noble exploits, and exhorting them to +imitate them. Another then approaches, and in the same manner recounts +his achievements, and proceeds as before. Should any one attempt to +take of the cake, to whose character there is the least exception, he is +stigmatized and set aside as a poltroon. + +It is said by some of the oldest and most intelligent inhabitants of St. +Louis, that about 1768, when the British had obtained possession of fort +Chartres, a very nefarious transaction took place in that vicinity, in +the assassination of the celebrated Indian chief Pontiac. Tradition +tells us that this man had exercised great influence in the North and +West, and that he resisted the transfer of authority from the French to +the English, on the fall of Canada. Carver has a story on this subject, +detailing the siege of Detroit in 1763, which has been generally read. +The version of Pontiac's death in Illinois, is this:--While encamped in +this vicinity, an Illinois Indian, who had given in his adherence to the +new dynasty of the English, was hired by the promise of rum, by some +English traders, to assassinate the chief, while the latter was reposing +on his pallet at night, still vainly dreaming, perhaps, of driving the +English out of America, and of restoring his favorite Indo-Gallic empire +in the West. + + +July 19th. We ascended the Mississippi seven miles yesterday, to which, +by all appliances, we added eleven miles to-day, which is our maximum +ascent in one day. Five miles of this distance, along the Missouri +shore, consists of the great public field of St. Genevieve. This field +is a monument of early French policy in the days of Indian supremacy, +when the agricultural population of a village was brought to labor in +proximity, so that any sudden and capricious attack of the natives could +be effectively repelled. We landed at the mouth of the Gabarie, a small +stream which passes through the town. St. Genevieve lies on higher +ground, above the reach of the inundations, about a mile west of the +landing. It consists of some three hundred wooden houses, including +several stores, a post-office, court-house, Roman Catholic church, and a +branch of the Missouri Bank, having a capital of fifty thousand dollars. +The town is one of the principal markets and places of shipment for the +Missouri lead-mines. Heavy stacks of lead in pigs, are one of the chief +characteristics which I saw in, and often piled up in front of its +storehouses; and they give one the idea of a considerable export in this +article. + + +July 20th. I devoted this day to a reconnoissance of St. Genevieve and +its environs. The style of building reminds one of the ancient Belgic +and Dutch settlements on the banks of the Hudson and Mohawk--high-pointed +roofs to low one-story-buildings, and large stone chimneys out-doors. +The streets are narrow, and the whole village as compact as if built to +sustain a siege. The water of the Mississippi is falling rapidly, and +leaves on the shores a deposit of mud, varying from a foot to two feet +in depth. This recent deposit appears to consist essentially of silex +and alumine, in a state of very intimate mixture. An opinion is +prevalent throughout this country, that the water of the Mississippi, +with every impurity, is healthful as a common drink; and accordingly the +boatmen, and many of the inhabitants on the banks of the river, make use +of no other water. An expedient resorted to at first, perhaps, from +necessity, may be continued from an impression of the benefits resulting +from it. I am not well enough acquainted with the chemical properties of +the water, or the method in which it operates on the human system, to +deny its utility; but, to my palate, clear spring-water is far +preferable. A simple method is pursued for clarifying it: a handful of +Indian meal is sprinkled on the surface of a vessel of water, +precipitating the mud to the bottom, and the superincumbent water is +left in a tolerable state of purity. + + +July 21st. We again set forward this morning. On ascending three miles, +we came to Little Rock ferry--a noted point of crossing from the east to +the west of the Mississippi. The most remarkable incident in the history +of this place is the residence of an old French soldier, of an age gone +by, who has left his name in the geography of the surrounding country. +_M. Breton_, the person alluded to, is stated to be, at this time, one +hundred and nine years of age. Tradition says that he was at Braddock's +defeat--at the siege of Louisbourg--at the building of fort Chartres, +in the Illinois--and at the siege of Bergen-op-Zoom, in Flanders. While +wandering as a hunter, after his military services had ended, in the +country about forty miles west of the Mississippi, he discovered the +extensive lead-mines which continue to bear his name. + +We ascended this day twelve miles, which is the utmost stretch of our +exertions against the turbid and heavy tide of this stream. Our captain +(Ensminger) looked in the evening as if he had been struggling all day +in a battle, and his men took to their pallets as if exhausted to the +last degree. + + +July 22d. I have seen very little, thus far, in the Mississippi, in the +shape of fish. The only species noticed has been the gar; one of which I +caught, as described, from the side of the boat, while lying at the +mouth of the Ohio. Of all rivers in the West, I should think it the +least favorable to this form of organized matter. Of the coarse species +of the catfish and buffalo-fish which are found in its waters, I suppose +the freshet has deprived us of a sight. + +Of antiquities, I have seen nothing since leaving the Ohio valley till +this day, when I picked up, in my rambles on shore, an ancient Indian +dart, of chert. The Indian antiquities on the Illinois shore, however, +are stated to be very extensive. Near the Kaskaskia river are numerous +mounds and earthworks, which denote a heavy ancient population. + +The limestone cliffs, at the place called Dormant Rocks, assume a very +imposing appearance. These precipitous walls bear the marks of attrition +in water-lines, very plainly impressed, at great heights above the +present water-level; creating the idea that they may have served as +barriers to some ancient ocean resting on the grand prairies of +Illinois. + +We were passed, near evening, by the little steamer Harriet, on her +descent from St. Louis. This vessel is the same that was noticed on the +11th, on her ascent, and is the only representative of steam-power that +we have observed.[5] Our ascent this day was estimated at thirteen +miles. + + +July 23d. Passing the Platten creek, the prominence called Cornice Rock, +and the promontory of Joachim creek, an ascent of five miles brought us +to the town of Herculaneum. This name of a Roman city buried for ages, +gives, at least, a moral savor of antiquity to a country whose +institutions are all new and nascent. It was bestowed, I believe, by Mr. +Austin, who is one of the principal proprietors of the place. It +consists of between thirty and forty houses, including three stores, a +post-office, court-house, and school. There are three shot-towers on the +adjoining cliffs, and some mills, with a tan-yard and a distillery, in +the vicinity. It is also a mart for the lead-mine country. + +I had now ascended one hundred and seventy miles from the junction of +the Ohio. This had required over twenty-two days, which gives an average +ascent of between seven and eight miles per day, and sufficiently +denotes the difficulty of propelling boats up this stream by manual +labor. + +At Herculaneum I was introduced to M. Austin, Esq.--a gentleman who had +been extensively engaged in the mining business while the country was +yet under Spanish jurisdiction, and who was favorably known, a few years +after, as the prime mover of the incipient steps to colonize Texas. +Verbal information, from him and others, appeared to make this a +favorable point from which to proceed into the interior, for the purpose +of examining its mineral structure and peculiarities. I therefore +determined to leave my baggage here until I had visited the territorial +capital, St. Louis. This was still thirty miles distant, and, after +making the necessary preparations, I set out, on the 26th of the month, +on foot. In this journey I was joined by my two _compagnons de voyage_ +from Pennsylvania and Maryland. We began our march at an early hour. The +summer had now assumed all its fervor, and power of relaxation and +lassitude on the muscles of northern constitutions. We set out on foot +early, but, as the day advanced, the sun beat down powerfully, and the +air seemed to owe all its paternity to tropical regions. It was in vain +we reached the summit land. There was no breeze, and the forest trees +were too few and widely scattered to afford any appreciable shade. + +The soil of the Missouri uplands appears to possess a uniform character, +although it is better developed in some localities than in others. It is +the red mineral clay, which, in some of its conditions, yields beds of +galena throughout the mine country, bearing fragments of quartz in some +of its numerous varieties. In these uplands, its character is not so +well marked as in the districts further west; geologically considered, +however, it is identical in age and relative position. The _gullied_ +character of the soil, and its liability to crumble under the effect of +rain, and to be carried off, which was first noticed at Cape Girardeau, +is observed along this portion of the river, and is most obvious in the +gulfy state of the roads. + +What added greatly to our fatigue in crossing this tract, was the having +taken a too westerly path, which gave us a roundabout tramp. On +returning to the main track, we forded Cold river, a rapid and clear +brook; a little beyond which, we reached a fine, large, crystal spring, +the waters of which bubbled up briskly and bright, and ran off from +their point of outbreak to the river we had just crossed, leaving a +white deposit of sulphur. The water is pretty strongly impregnated with +this mineral, and is supposed to have a beneficial effect in bilious +complaints. The scenery in the vicinity of the spring is highly +picturesque, and the place is capable of being made a delightful resort. + +Five miles more brought us to the banks of the Maramec river, where we +arrived at dark, and prevailed with the ferryman to take us across, +notwithstanding the darkness of the night, and the rain, which, after +having threatened a shower all the afternoon, now began to fall. The +Maramec is the principal stream of the mine country, and is the +recipient of affluents, spreading over a large area. The aboriginal name +of this stream, Mr. Austin informed me, should be written "Marameg." The +ferryman seemed in no hurry to put us over this wide river, at so late +an hour, and with so portentous a sky as hung over us, threatening every +moment to pour down floods upon us. By the time we had descended from +his house into the valley, and he had put us across to the opposite +shore, it was dark. We took his directions for finding the house at +which we expected to lodge; but it soon became so intensely dark, that +we pursued a wrong track, which led us away from the shelter we sought. +Satisfied at length that we had erred, we knew not what to do. It then +began to pour down rain. We groped about a while, but finally stood +still. In this position, we had not remained long, when the faint +tinkling of a cow-bell, repeated leisurely, as if the animal were +housed, fell on our ears. The direction of the sound was contrary to +that we had been taking; but we determined to grope our way cautiously +toward it, guided at intervals by flashes of lightning which lit up the +woods, and standing still in the meanwhile to listen. At length we came +to a fence. This was a guide, and by keeping along one side of it, it +led us to the house of which we were in search. We found that, deducting +our misadventure in the morning, we had advanced on our way, directly, +but about fifteen miles. + + +July 27th. We were again on our path at a seasonable hour, and soon +passed out of the fertile and heavily timbered valley of the Maramec. +There now commenced a gentle ridge, running parallel to the Mississippi +river for twelve miles. In this distance there was not a single house, +nor any trace that man had bestowed any permanent labor. It was sparsely +covered with oaks, standing at long distances apart, with the +intervening spaces profusely covered with prairie grass and flowers. We +frequently saw the deer bounding before us; and the views, in which we +sometimes caught glimpses of the river, were of a highly sylvan +character. But the heat of the day was intense, and we sweltered beneath +it. About half-way, we encountered a standing spring, in a sort of open +cavern at the foot of a hill, and stooped down and drank. We then went +on, still "faint and wearily," to the old French village of Carondelet, +which bears the soubriquet of _Vede-pouche_ (empty sack). It contains +about sixty wooden buildings, arranged mostly in a single street. Here +we took breakfast. + +Being now within six miles of the place of our destination, and +recruited and refreshed, we pushed on with more alacrity. The first +three miles led through a kind of brushy heath, which had the +appearance of having once been covered with large trees that had all +been cut away for firing, with here and there a dry trunk, denuded and +white, looking like ghosts of a departed forest. Patches of cultivation, +with a few buildings, then supervened. These tokens of a better state of +things increased in frequency and value till we reached the skirts of +the town, which we entered about four o'clock in the afternoon. + +St. Louis impressed me as a geographical position of superlative +advantages for a city. It now contains about five hundred and fifty +houses, and five thousand inhabitants. It has forty stores, a +post-office, a land-office, two chartered banks, a court-house, jail, +theatre, three churches, one brewery, two distilleries, two water-mills, +a steam flouring-mill, and other improvements. These elements of +prosperity are but indications of what it is destined to become. The +site is unsurpassed for its beauty and permanency; a limestone formation +rising from the shores of the Mississippi, and extending gradually to +the upper plain. It is in north latitude 38 deg. 36', nearly equidistant +from the Alleghany and the Rocky mountains. It is twelve hundred miles +above New Orleans, and about one thousand below St. Anthony's falls. + +No place in the world, situated so far from the ocean, can at all +compare with St. Louis for commercial advantages. It is so situated with +regard to the surrounding country, as to become the key to its commerce, +and the storehouse of its wealth; and if the whole western region be +surveyed with a geographical eye, it must rest with unequalled interest +on that peninsula of land formed by the junction of the Missouri with +the Mississippi--a point occupied by the town of St. Louis. Standing +near the confluence of two such mighty streams, an almost immeasurable +extent of back country must flow to it with its produce, and be supplied +from it with merchandise. The main branch of the Missouri is navigable +two thousand five hundred miles, and the most inconsiderable of its +tributary streams will vie with the largest rivers of the Atlantic +States. The Mississippi, on the other hand, is navigable without +interruption for one thousand miles above St. Louis. Its affluents, the +De Corbeau, Iowa, Wisconsin, St. Pierre, Rock river, Salt river, and +Desmoines, are all streams of the first magnitude, and navigable for +many hundred miles. The Illinois is navigable three hundred miles; and +when the communication between it and the lakes, and between the +Mississippi and lake Superior, and the lake of the Woods--between the +Missouri and the Columbia valley--shall be effected; communications not +only pointed out, but, in some instances, almost completed by nature; +what a chain of connected navigation shall we behold! And by looking +upon the map, we shall find St. Louis the focus where all these streams +are destined to be discharged--the point where all this vast commerce +must centre, and where the wealth flowing from these prolific sources +must pre-eminently crown her the queen of the west. + +My attention was called to two large mounds, on the western bank of the +Mississippi, a short distance above St. Louis. I have no hesitation in +expressing the opinion that they are geological, and not artificial. +Indian bodies have been buried in their sides, precisely as they are +often buried by the natives in other elevated grounds, for which they +have a preference. But the mounds themselves consist of sand, boulders, +pebbles, and other drift materials, such as are common to undisturbed +positions in the Mississippi valley generally. + +Another subject in the physical geography of the country attracted my +notice, the moment the river fell low enough to expose its inferior +shores, spits, and sand-bars. It is the progressive diffusion of its +detritus from superior to inferior positions in its length. Among this +transported material I observed numerous small fragments of those +agates, and other silicious minerals of the quartz family, which +characterize the broad diluvial tracts about its sources and upper +portions. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[5] I found fifty steamers of all sizes on the Mississippi and its +tributaries, of which a list is published in the Appendix. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + + RESOLVE TO PROCEED FURTHER WEST--NIGHT VOYAGE ON THE + MISSISSIPPI IN A SKIFF--AN ADVENTURE--PROCEED ON FOOT WEST + TO THE MISSOURI MINES--INCIDENTS BY THE WAY--MINERS' + VILLAGE OF SHIBBOLETH--COMPELLED BY A STORM TO PASS THE + NIGHT AT OLD MINES--REACH POTOSI--FAVORABLE RECEPTION BY + THE MINING GENTRY--PASS SEVERAL MONTHS IN EXAMINING THE + MINES--ORGANIZE AN EXPEDITION TO EXPLORE WESTWARD--ITS + COMPOSITION--DISCOURAGEMENTS ON SETTING OUT--PROCEED, + NOTWITHSTANDING--INCIDENTS OF THE JOURNEY TO THE VALLEY OF + LEAVES. + + +I was kindly received by some persons I had before known, particularly +by a professional gentleman with whom I had descended the Alleghany +river in the preceding month of March, who invited me to remain at his +house. I had now proceeded about seventeen hundred miles from my +starting-point in Western New York; and after passing a few days in +examining the vicinity, and comparing facts, I resolved on the course it +would be proper to pursue, in extending my journey further west and +south-west. I had felt, for many years, an interest in the character and +resources of the mineralogy of this part of what I better knew as Upper +Louisiana, and its reported mines of lead, silver, copper, salt, and +other natural productions. I had a desire to see the country which De +Soto had visited, west of the Mississippi, and I wished to trace its +connection with the true Cordillera of the United States--the Stony or +Rocky mountains. My means for undertaking this were rather slender. I +had already drawn heavily on these in my outward trip. But I felt (I +believe from early reading) an irrepressible desire to explore this +region. I was a good draughtsman, mapper, and geographer, a ready +penman, a rapid sketcher, and a naturalist devoted to mineralogy and +geology, with some readiness as an assayer and experimental chemist; and +I relied on these as both aids and recommendations--as, in short, the +incipient means of success. + +When ready to embark on the Mississippi, I was joined by my two former +companions in the ascent from the mouth of the Ohio. It was late in the +afternoon of one of the hottest summer days, when we took our seats +together in a light skiff at St. Louis, and pushed out into the +Mississippi, which was still in flood, but rapidly falling, intending to +reach Cahokia that night. But the atmosphere soon became overcast, and, +when night came on, it was so intensely dark that we could not +discriminate objects at much distance. Floating, in a light pine skiff, +in the centre of such a stream, on a very dark night, our fate seemed +suspended by a thread. The downward pressure of the current was such, +that we needed not to move an oar; and every eye was strained, by +holding it down parallel to the water, to discover contiguous snags, or +floating bodies. It became, at the same time, quite cold. We at length +made a shoal covered with willows, or a low sandy islet, on the left, or +Illinois shore. Here, one of my Youghioghany friends, who had not yet +got over his _penchant_ for grizzly bears, returned from reconnoitering +the bushes, with the cry of this prairie monster with a cub. It was too +dark to scrutinize, and, as we had no arms, we pushed on hurriedly about +a mile further, and laid down, rather than slept, on the shore, without +victuals or fire. At daylight, for which we waited anxiously, we found +ourselves nearly opposite Carondelet, to which we rowed, and where we +obtained a warm breakfast. Before we had finished eating, our French +landlady called for pay. Whether anything on our part had awakened her +suspicions, or the deception of others had rendered the precaution +necessary, I cannot say. Recruited in spirits by this meal, and by the +opening of a fine, clear day, we pursued our way, without further +misadventure, about eighteen miles, and landed at Herculaneum. + +The next day, which was the last of July, I set out on foot for the +mines, having directed my trunks to follow me by the first returning +lead-teams. My course led through an open, rolling country, covered with +grass, shrubs, and prairie flowers, and having but few trees. There was +consequently little or no shade, and, the weather being sultry, I +suffered much from heat and thirst. For the space of about twelve miles, +the road ran over an elevated ridge, destitute of streams or springs. I +did not meet an individual, nor see anything of the animal creation +larger than a solitary wild turkey, which, during the hottest part of +the day, came to contest with me for, or rather had previously reached, +some water standing in a wagon-rut. I gained the head of the Joachim +creek before nightfall, and, having taken lodgings, hastened down to a +sheltered part of the channel to bathe, after which I enjoyed a +refreshing night's sleep. The aboriginal name of this stream was +"Zwashau," meaning pin-oak, as I was told by an old hunter whom I met. + +The next day I was early on my way; and I soon began to discover, in the +face of the country, evidences of its metalliferous character. Twelve +miles brought me to the valley of Grand or Big river, one of the +principal tributaries of the Maramec. In descending the high grounds, I +observed numerous specimens of the brown oxide of iron; and after +crossing the ferry, the mineral locally called mineral blossom, +(radiated quartz,) of which I had noticed slight traces before, +developed itself in fine specimens. The first mining village I came to, +bore the name of Shibboleth. At this place there was a smelting furnace, +of the kind called a log-furnace. Here I first saw heaps of the ore of +lead commonly found. It is the sulphuret, of a broad glittering grain, +and cubical fracture. It is readily smelted, being piled on logs of +equal length, and adjusted in the before-named furnace, where it is +roasted till the sulphur is driven off; when desulphurated, it melts, +and the metal is received on an inclined plane and conducted into an +orifice, from which it is ladled into moulds. From fifty to sixty per +cent, is obtained in this way. Shibboleth is the property of John Smith +T.; a man whose saturnine temper and disposition have brought him into +collision with many persons, and given him a wide-spread notoriety both +in Missouri and Tennessee. + +I lingered along so leisurely, and stopped so often to examine objects +by the way, that my progress was not rapid. I obtained some corn-bread +and milk at a house, and pursued my journey to Old Mines, where a heavy +storm of rain arose. I took shelter at a neighboring house, where I +remained during the night. The next morning I walked into Potosi, and +took lodgings at Mr. William Ficklin's. This gentleman was a native of +Kentucky, where most of his life had been passed in the perils and +adventures attending the early settlement of that State. His +conversation was replete with anecdotes of perilous adventures which he +had experienced; and I was indebted to him for some necessary practical +points of knowledge in forest life, and precautions in travelling in an +Indian country. + +The day after my arrival was a local election day, for a representative +from the county in the territorial legislature, to which Mr. Austin the +younger was returned. This brought together the principal mining and +agricultural gentlemen of the region, and was a circumstance of some +advantage to me, in extending my acquaintance, and making known the +objects of my visit. In this, the Austins, father and son, were most +kind and obliging. Indeed, the spirit with which I was received by the +landed proprietors of the country generally, and the frankness and +urbanity of their manners and sentiments, inspired me with high hopes of +success in making a mineralogical survey of the country. + +I found the geological structure of the country, embracing the mines, to +be very uniform. It consists of a metalliferous limestone, in horizontal +strata, which have not been lifted up or disturbed from their +horizontality by volcanic forces; but they have been exposed to the laws +of disintegration and elemental action in a very singular manner. By +this action, the surface of the formation has been divided into ridges, +valleys, and hills, producing inequalities of the most striking and +picturesque character. + +There are some forty principal mines, in an area of about seventy miles +by thirty or forty in breadth. The chief ore of lead smelted is galena. +The associated minerals of most prominence are sulphate of barytes, +sulphuret of zinc, calcareous spar, and crystallized quartz, chiefly in +radiated crystals. I spent upwards of three months in a survey of the +mines of chief consequence, noting their peculiarities and geological +features. By far the most remarkable feature in the general structure of +the country, consists of the existence of a granitical tract at the +sources of the river St. Francis. This I particularly examined. The +principal elevations consist of red sienite and greenstone, lying in +their usual forms of mountain masses. The geological upheavals which +have brought these masses to their present elevations, appear to have +been of the most ancient character; for the limestones and crystalline +sandstones have been deposited, in perfectly horizontal beds, against +their sides. + +Feeling a desire to compare this formation with the structure of the +country west and south of it, extending to the Rocky mountains, and +satisfied at the same time that these primary peaks constituted the +mineral region of De Soto's most northerly explorations, I determined to +extend my explorations south-westwardly. The term "Ozark mountains" is +popularly applied to the broad and elevated highlands which stretch in +this direction, reaching from the Maramec to the Arkansas. Having +obtained the best information accessible from hunters and others who had +gone farthest in that direction, I determined to proceed, as early as I +could complete my arrangements for that purpose, to explore those +elevations. + +Colonel W. H. Ashley, who had penetrated into this region, together with +several enterprising hunters and woodsmen, represented it as +metalliferous, and abounding in scenes of varied interest. It had been +the ancient hunting-ground of the Osages, a wild and predatory tribe, +who yet infested its fastnesses; and it was represented as subject to +severe risks from this cause. Two or three of the woodsmen, who were +best acquainted with this tract, expressed a willingness to accompany me +on a tour of exploration. I therefore, in the month of October, +revisited St. Louis and Illinois, for the purpose of making final +arrangements for the tour, and obtained the consent of Mr. Brigham and +Mr. Pettibone, previously mentioned, to accompany me. A day was +appointed for our assembling at Potosi. I then returned to complete my +arrangements. I purchased a stout, low-priced horse, to carry such +supplies as were requisite, made his pack-saddle with my own hands, and +had it properly riveted by a smith. A pair of blankets for sleeping; a +small, short-handled frying-pan; a new axe, a tin coffeepot, three tin +cups, and the same number of tin plates; a couple of hunting-knives; a +supply of lead, shot, ball, powder, and flints; a small smith's hammer, +and nails for setting a horse-shoe; a horse-bell and strap; a pocket +compass; a gun, shot-pouch, and appendages, containing a space for my +diary; a mineral-hammer, constructed under my own directions, so as to +embrace a small mortar on one face, and capable of unscrewing at the +handle, which could be used as a pestle; a supply of stout clothing, a +bearskin and oilcloth, some bacon, tea, sugar, salt, hard bread, &c., +constituted the chief articles of outfit. The man of whom I purchased +the horse called him by the unpoetic name of "Butcher." + +It was the beginning of November before my friends arrived, and on the +sixth of that month we packed the horse, and took our way over the +mineral hills that surround Potosi, making our first encampment in a +little valley, on the margin of a stream called Bates's creek. + +It was fine autumn weather; the leaves of the forest were mostly sere, +and the winds scattered them about us with an agreeable movement, as we +wound among the hills. We were evidently following an old Indian trail, +and, finding a rather tenable old wigwam, constructed of poles and bark, +we pitched upon it as our first place of encampment. My kind host from +Kentucky, with whom I had been staying, accompanied us thus far, to see +us safely in the woods, and taught me the art of hobbling a horse, and +tying on his night-bell. The hunters, who had talked rather +vaingloriously of their prowess among wild animals and Osages, one by +one found obstacles to impede their going. Finally, one of my companions +was compelled to return, owing to a continued attack of fever and ague. +I determined, nevertheless, to proceed, thinking that a hunter could be +found to join us before quitting the verge of civilization. Having +unpacked Butcher, prepared him for the night, stowed away the baggage, +and built a fire, I took my gun and sallied out into the forest, while +my companion prepared things for our supper. I found the greatest +abundance of large black and grey squirrels in a neighboring wood, and +returned with a number of the finest of them in season to add to our +evening's meal. + +A man's first night in the wilderness is impressive. Our friends had +left us, and returned to Potosi. Gradually all sounds of animated nature +ceased. When darkness closed around us, the civilized world seemed to +have drawn its curtains, and excluded us. We put fresh sticks on the +fire, which threw a rich flash of light on our camp, and finally wrapped +ourselves in our blankets, and, amidst ruminations on the peculiarities +of our position, our hopes, and our dangers, we sank to sleep. + + +Nov. 7th. The first thing listened for this morning was the tinkle of +our horse's bell. But Butcher was gone. All my precautions had been in +vain. The poor beast appeared to have had a presentiment of the hard +fare that was before him, and, although his fore-feet were tethered, and +he must lift up both together to jump, yet, having a strong recollection +of the corn-fodder and juicy blades left behind him, he had made his way +back to the mines. I immediately went in pursuit of him. He was easily +tracked until he got to a space of rank herbage, where I lost the track, +and hearing, at the same moment, a bell to the left, I pursued the sound +over hill and through dale, till I came out at a farm-yard on Mine +creek, four miles below Potosi, where I found the bell whose sound I had +followed attached to the neck of a stately penned ox. The owner told me +that Butcher had reached the mines, and been sent back to my camp by his +former owner. I had nothing left but to retrace my steps, which, +luckily, were but the shorter line of an acute triangle. I found him at +the camp. It was, however, ten o'clock before our breakfast was +despatched, and the horse repacked ready for starting. We took the labor +of leading the horse, and carrying the compass and guiding, day about, +so as to equalize these duties, and leave no cause for dissatisfaction. +Our trail carried us across the succession of elevated and arid ridges +called the Pinery. Not a habitation of any kind, nor the vestiges of +one, was passed; neither did we observe any animal, or even bird. The +soil was sterile, hard, and flinty, bearing yellow pines, with some +oaks. Our general course was west-south-west. The day was mild and +pleasant for the season. For a computed distance of fourteen miles, we +encountered a succession of ascents and descents, which made us rejoice, +as evening approached, to see a tilled valley before us. It proved to be +the location of a small branch of the Maramec river, called by its +original French name of _Fourche a Courtois_. The sun sank below the +hills as we entered this valley. Some woodcock flew up as we reached the +low ground; but as we had a cabin in view, and the day was far gone, we +moved on toward our principal object. Presently the loud barking of dogs +announced our approach; they seemed, by their clamor, as pertinacious as +if two wolves or panthers were stealing on the tenement, till they were +silenced by the loud commands of their master. It was a small log +building, of the usual construction on the frontiers, and afforded the +usual hospitality, and ready accommodations. They gave us warm cakes of +corn-bread, and fine rich milk; and, spreading our blankets before the +fire, we enjoyed sound slumbers. Butcher, here, had his last meal of +corn, and made no attempt to escape. + + +Nov. 8th. With the earliest streaks of daylight we adjusted our pack for +the horse, and again set forward on the trail. In the course of two +miles' travel, we forded a stream called Law's Fork, and also the branch +of the Maramec on which we had lodged the previous night. We soon after +descried a hunter's cabin, a small and newly erected hut in the midst of +the forest, occupied by a man named Alexander Roberts. This proved the +last house we encountered, and was estimated to be twenty miles from +Potosi. Some trees had been felled and laid around, partially burned; +but not a spot of ground was in cultivation. Dogs, lean and hungry, +heralded our approach, as in the former instance; and they barked loud +and long. On reaching the cabin, we found that the man was not at home, +having left it, his wife said, with his rifle, at an early hour, in +search of game. She thought he would be back before noon, and that he +would accompany us. We decided to await his return, and in the meanwhile +prepared our frugal breakfast. In a short time, Roberts returned; he was +a chunky, sinister-looking fellow, and reminded me of Ali Baba, in the +"Forty Thieves." He had a short, greasy buckskin frock, and a pointed +old hat. His wife, who peeped out of the door, looked queer, and had at +least one resemblance to Cogia, which seemed to be "starvation." The +hunter had killed nothing, and agreed to accompany us, immediately +beginning his preparations. He at the same time informed us of the fear +entertained of the Osages, and other matters connected with our journey +in the contemplated direction. About ten o'clock he was ready, and, +leading a stout little compact horse from a pen, he clapped a saddle on, +seized his rifle, announced himself as ready, and led off. The trail led +up a long ridge, which appeared to be the dividing ground between the +two principal forks of the Maramec. It consisted of a stiff loam, filled +with geological drift, which, having been burned over for ages by the +Indians, to fit it for hunting in the fall of the year, had little +carbonaceous soil left, and exhibited a hard and arid surface. Our +general course was still west-south-west. After proceeding about four +miles, our path came to the summit of an eminence, from which we +descried the valley of the Ozau, or Ozark fork. This valley consisted +entirely of prairie. Scarcely a tree was visible in it. The path wound +down the declivity, and across the valley. The soil appeared to be +fertile. Occupying one bank of the stream, nearly in the centre of the +valley, we passed a cluster of Indian wigwams, inhabited alone by the +old men, women, and children; the young men being absent, hunting. We +found them to be Lenno-Lenapees, or, in other words, Delawares; being +descendants of the Indians whom William Penn found, in 1682, in the +pleasant forest village of Coacquannok, where Philadelphia now stands. +Strange, but not extraordinary history! They have been shoved back by +civilization, in the course of a hundred and thirty-six years' +mutations, over the Alleghanies--over the Mississippi--into the spurs of +these mountains. Where they will be after the lapse of a similar period, +no one can say. But this _can_ be said--that the hunting of deer will +give out; and if they do not betake themselves to some other means of +subsistence, they will be numbered among the nations that were. + +Roberts informed me that four or five miles lower down the valley was a +village of Shawnees, and, higher up, another village of Delawares. + +On reaching the uplands on the west side of the valley, we pursued the +trail up its banks about four or five miles, and encamped by daylight +near a clump of bushes at a spring. As I was expert in striking and +kindling a fire, this became a duty to which I devoted myself during the +entire journey, while my companion busied himself in preparations for +our repast. Roberts reconnoitred the vicinity, and came in with a report +that we had reached a game country. + +We were now fairly beyond the line of all settlements, even the most +remote, and had entered on that broad highland tract to which, for +geographical distinction, the name of Ozark mountains is applied. This +tract reaches through Missouri and Arkansas, from the Maramec to the +Wachita, and embraces the middle high lands between the plains at the +foot of the Rocky mountains, and the rapids of the Maramec, St. Francis, +Osage, White, Arkansas, and other principal streams; these traverse a +belt of about two hundred miles east and west, by seven hundred miles +north and south. It is a sort of Rheingau, through which the rivers +burst. + + +Nov. 9th. Early in the morning, Roberts brought in the carcase of a fine +deer; and we made our first meal on wild venison, cut fresh smoking from +the tenderest parts, and roasted on sticks to suit our tastes. This put +every one in the best of spirits, and we packed a supply of the meat for +our evening's repast. Seeing that Roberts was more at home among the +game, and that he had but a sorry knife for the business, I loaned him +a fine new belt and knife, with its sheath, for the day. We now +travelled up the Ozark fork about eighteen miles. The weather was +exhilarating, and the winds were careering with the leaves of the +forest, and casting them in profusion in our track. As we came near the +sources of the river, we entered a wide prairie, perfectly covered for +miles with these leaves, brought from neighboring forests. At every step +the light masses were kicked or brushed away before us. This plain, or +rather level vale, was crowned in the distance by elevations fringed +with tall trees which still held some of their leafy honors, giving a +very picturesque character to the landscape. I booked the scene at +night, in my diary, as CLIOLA, or the Valley of Leaves. We held our way +over the distant eminences, and at length found a spring by which we +encamped, at a rather late hour. It had been a hazy and smoky day, like +the Indian summer in Atlantic latitudes. We were in a region teeming +with the deer and elk, which frequently bounded across our path. The +crack of Roberts's rifle, also, added to the animation of the day's +travel; though we might have known, from his unsteady bandit-eye, that +he meditated something to our damage. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + + HORSES ELOPE--DESERTION OF OUR GUIDE--ENCAMP ON ONE OF THE + SOURCES OF BLACK RIVER--HEAD-WATERS OF THE RIVER CURRENTS + --ENTER A ROMANTIC SUB-VALLEY--SALTPETRE CAVES--DESCRIPTION + OF ASHLEY'S CAVE--ENCAMPMENT THERE--ENTER AN ELEVATED SUMMIT + --CALAMARCA, AN UNKNOWN STREAM--ENCOUNTER FOUR BEARS--NORTH + FORK OF WHITE RIVER. + + +Nov. 10th. While we laid on our pallets last night, the trampling of +hoofs was frequently heard; but at length the practised ear of the +hunter detected that these were the sounds of wild animals' hoofs, and +not of our horses. This man's eye had shown an unwonted degree of +restlessness and uneasiness during the afternoon of the preceding day, +while witnessing the abundant signs of deer and elk in the country; but +this excited no suspicions. He was restless during the night, and was +disturbed at a very early hour, long before light, by this trampling of +animals. These sounds, he said to me, did not proceed from the horses, +which were hobbled. He got up, and found both animals missing. Butcher's +memory of corn and corn-fodder, at his old master's at Potosi, had not +yet deserted him, and he carried the hunter's horse along with him. I +immediately jumped up, and accompanied him in their pursuit. There was +some moonlight, with clouds rapidly passing. We pursued our back-track, +anxiously looking from every eminence, and stopping to listen for the +sound of the bells. Roberts occasionally took up a handful of leaves, +which were thickly strewn around, and held them up in the moonlight, to +see whether the corks of the horses' shoes had not penetrated them. When +he finally found this sign, he was sure we were in the right way. At +length, when we had gone several miles, and reached an eminence that +overlooked the broad plain of the Valley of Leaves, we plainly descried +the fugitives, jumping on as fast as possible on the way back. We soon +overhauled them, and brought them to camp by daybreak, before my +companion had yet awaked. + +Roberts now sallied out, and in a few minutes fired at and killed a fat +doe, which he brought in, and we made a breakfast by roasting steaks. +Roberts had expressed no dissatisfaction or desire to return, but, +sallying out again among the deer on horseback, said he would rejoin us +presently, at a future point. We travelled on, expecting at every turn +to see him reappear. But we saw no more of him. The rascal had not only +deserted us at a difficult point, but he carried off my best new +hunting-knife--a loss not to be repaired in such a place. + +We at length came to a point where the trail forked. This put us to a +stand. Which to take, we knew not; and the result was of immense +consequence to our journey, as we afterwards found; for, had we taken +the right-hand fork, we should have been conducted in a more direct line +to the portions of country we sought to explore. We took the left-hand +fork, which we followed diligently, crossing several streams running to +the north-west, which were probably tributary to the Missouri through +the Gasconade. It was after dark before we came to a spot having the +requisites for an encampment, particularly water. It was an opening on +the margin of a small lake, having an outlet south-east, which we +finally determined to be either one of the sources of the Black river, +or of the river Currents. + +We had now travelled about twenty miles from our last camp, in a +southerly direction. We did not entirely relinquish the idea of being +rejoined by Roberts, nor become fully satisfied of his treachery, till +late in the evening. We had relied on his guidance till we should be +able to reach some hunters' camps on the White or Arkansas rivers; but +this idea was henceforth abandoned. Left thus, on the commencement of +our journey, in the wilderness, without a guide or hunter, we were +consigned to a doubtful fate; our extrication from which depended +wholly upon a decision and self-reliance, which he only knows how to +value, who is first called to grapple with the hardships of western +life. + +It was the edge of a prairie where we had halted. Wood was rather +scarce; but we made shift to build a good fire, and went to sleep with +no object near us, to excite sympathy, but our horse, who was securely +belled and tethered. When we awoke in the morning, the fire was out, and +a pack of wolves were howling within a few hundred yards of our camp. +Whether the horse feared them, I know not; but he had taken his position +near the embers of the fire, where he stood quite still. + + +Nov. 11th. In passing two miles, we crossed a small stream running +south-east, which evidently had its source in the little lake at our +last night's encampment. The trail beyond this was often faint; in the +course of eight or ten miles, we began to ascend elevations covered with +pines, but of so sterile and hard a soil, that we lost all trace of it. +We wound about among these desolate pine ridges a mile or two, till, +from one of the higher points, we descried a river in a deep valley, +having a dense forest of hard wood, and every indication of animal life. +Overjoyed at this, we mended our pace, and, by dint of great caution, +led our pack-horse into it. It proved to be the river Currents, a fine +stream, with fertile banks, and clear sparkling waters. The +grey-squirrel was seen sporting on its shady margin, and, as night +approached, the wild turkey came in from the plains to drink, and make +its nightly abode. After fording the river, we soon found our lost +trail, which we followed a while up the stream, then across a high ridge +which constituted its southern banks, and through dense thickets to the +summits of a narrow, deep, and dark limestone valley, which appeared to +be an abyss. Daylight left us as we wound down a gorge into its dreary +precincts; and we no sooner found it traversed by a clear brook, than we +determined to encamp. As the fire flashed up, it revealed on either side +steep and frowning cliffs, which might gratify the wildest spirit of +romance. This stream, with its impending cavernous cliffs, I designated +the Wall-cave or Ononda valley. + +We had advanced this day about eighteen or twenty miles. We had an +opportunity, while on the skirts of the high prairie lands, to fire at +some elk, and to observe their stately motions; but, being still +supplied with venison, we were not willing to waste the time in pursuing +them. Our course varied from south to south-west. + + +Nov. 12th. Daylight fully revealed our position. We were in a valley, +often not more than six hundred feet wide, with walls of high +precipitous limestone rock. These cliffs were remarkable for nothing so +much as their caverns, seated uniformly at a height of forty or fifty +feet above the ground, in inaccessible positions. I do not know the +number of these caves, as we did not count them; but they existed on +either side of the valley as far as we explored it. Most of them were +too high to reach. A tree had fallen against the cliff near one of them, +by climbing which I reached a small ledge of the rock that afforded a +little footing, and, by cautiously groping along, the orifice was +finally reached and entered. It proved interesting, although of no great +extent; but it contained stalactites depending in clusters from the +walls. Of these, I secured a number which were translucent. Slender +crystals of nitrate of potash, of perfect whiteness and crystalline +beauty, were found in some of the crevices. Having secured specimens of +these, I again got out on the ledge of rock, and, reaching the tree, +descended in safety. + +About half a mile higher up the valley, on its south side, we discovered +a cavern of gigantic dimensions. The opening in the face of the rock +appeared to be about eighty or ninety feet wide, and about thirty high. +A projection of rock on one side enabled us to enter it. A vast and +gloomy rotundo opened before us. It very soon, after the entry, +increases in height to sixty or seventy feet, and in width to one +hundred and fifty or two hundred feet, forming an immense hall. This +hall has another opening or corridor, leading to a precipitous part of +the cliff. It extends into the rock, southerly, an unexplored distance, +branching off in lateral avenues from the main trunk. We explored the +main gallery five or six hundred yards, when we found obstructions. The +roof has been blackened by the carbonaceous effect of fires, kindled by +Indians or white men, who have visited it, in former years, in search of +nitrous earth. In some parts of it, compact bodies of pebbles and +reddish clay, very similar to that found on the cliffs, are seen, which +creates an idea that the cavern must have been an open orifice at the +geological era of the diluvial deposits. This earth, by being lixiviated +with common house-ashes, produces a liquid which, on evaporation, yields +saltpetre. The cave, I was informed at Potosi, has been visited for this +purpose by Colonel Ashley, and it appropriately bears his name. Finding +it a perfect "rock-house," and being dry, and affording advantages for +some necessary repairs to our gear, and arrangements for the further +continuation of our explorations, we, about four o'clock in the +afternoon, removed our camp up the valley, and encamped within it. We +could shelter ourselves completely in its capacious chambers in case of +rain, of which there were indications, and take a calm view of the +course it seemed now expedient to pursue. Thus far, we had had a trail, +however slight, to follow; but from this point there was none--we were +to plunge into the pathless woods, and to trust ourselves alone to the +compass, and the best judgment we could form of courses, distances, and +probabilities. A wilderness lay before us, behind us, and around us. We +had "taken our lives in our hands," and we were well satisfied that our +success must depend on our vigilance, energy, and determination. In +addition to the exertion of providing food, and repairing our clothing, +which, as we urged our way, was paying tribute to every sharp bush we +pressed through, we had to exercise a constant vigilance to prevent +Indian surprises; for experience had already taught us that, in the +wilderness, where there is no law to impose restraint but the moral law +of the heart, man is the greatest enemy of man. + + +Nov. 13th. The threatening appearance of the atmosphere induced us to +remain most of the day in our rock-house, which was devoted to devising +a more safe and compact mode of carrying specimens, to repairs of our +pack-saddles, a reconstruction of the mode of packing, &c. We then made +a further reconnoissance of the cavern, and its vicinity and +productions. I had paid particular attention to the subject of the +occurrence of animal bones in our western caves, as those of Europe had +recently excited attention; but never found any, in a single instance, +except the species of existing weasels, and other very small quadrupeds, +which are to be traced about these castellated and cavernous cliffs. As +evening approached, a flock of turkeys, coming in from the plain to the +top of the cliff above the cavern, flew down on to the trees directly in +front of us, sheltered as we were from their sight, and afforded a fine +opportunity for the exercise of our sportsmanship. + + +Nov. 14th. The rain which had threatened to fall yesterday, poured down +this morning, and continued with more or less violence all day. Our +packages, clothing, arms and accoutrements, were thoroughly overhauled +and examined. We had still supplies of everything essential to our +comfort. Our bacon had not been seriously trenched on, while the forest +had amply supplied us with venison, and our groceries bade fair to last +us till we should strike some of the main southern streams, or till our +increasing powers of endurance and forest skill should enable us to do +without them. + + +Nov. 15th. This morning, the sky being clear and bright, we left our +rock abode in the Wall-cave valley. We ascended this valley a short +distance, but, as it led us too far west, and the brush proved so thick +as to retard our progress, we soon left it. With some ado, the horse was +led to the top of the cliff. A number of lateral valleys, covered with +thick brush, made this a labor by no means light. The surface of the +ground was rough, vegetation sere and dry, and every thicket which +spread before us presented an obstacle which was to be overcome. We +could have penetrated many of these, which the horse could not be forced +through. Such parts of our clothing as did not consist of buckskin, paid +frequent tribute to these brambles. + +At length we got clear of these spurs, and entered on a high +table-land, where travelling became comparatively easy. The first view +of this vista of highland plains was magnificent. It was covered with +moderate-sized sere grass and dry seed-pods, which rustled as we passed. +There was scarcely an object deserving the name of a tree, except now +and then a solitary trunk of a dead pine or oak, which had been scathed +by the lightning. The bleached bones of an elk, a deer, or a bison, were +sometimes met. Occasionally we passed a copse of oak, or cluster of +saplings. The deer often bounded before us, and we sometimes disturbed +the hare from its sheltering bush, or put to flight the quail and the +prairie-hen. There was no prominent feature in the distance for the eye +to rest on. The unvaried prospect at length produced satiety. We felt, +in a peculiar manner, the solitariness of the wilderness. We travelled +silently and diligently. It was a dry and wave-like prairie. From +morning till sunset, we did not encounter a drop of water. This became +the absorbing object. Hill after hill, and vale after vale, were +patiently ascended, and diligently footed, without bringing the expected +boon. At last we came, suddenly and unexpectedly, to a small running +stream in the plain, where we gladly encamped. I quickly struck up a +cheerful fire, and we soon had a cup of tea with our evening's repast. +Nor was Butcher neglected. There was a patch of short green grass on the +margin of the brook, to which he did ample justice. We were not long +after supper in yielding ourselves to a sound sleep. + +While we were in the act of encamping, I had placed my powder-flask on +the ground, and, on lighting the fire, neglected to remove it. As the +plain was covered with dry leaves, they soon took fire, and burned over +a considerable space, including the spot occupied by myself and the +flask. The latter was a brass-mounted shooting-flask, of translucent +horn, having a flaw through which grains of powder sometimes escaped. +Yet no explosion took place. I looked and beheld the flask, which the +fire had thus run over, very near me, with amazement. + + +Nov. 16th. We were now on an elevated summit of table-land or +water-shed, which threw its waters off alternately to the Missouri and +Mississippi. It was covered with high, coarse, prairie grass, and its +occasional nodding clusters of prairie flowers run to seed. In depressed +places, the greenbriar occasionally became entangled with the horse's +feet, and required time to extricate him. We very frequently passed the +head and thigh-bones of the buffalo, proving that the animal had been +freely hunted on these plains. In the course of about eight miles' +travel, we passed two small streams running to the north-west, which led +us to think that we were diverging too far towards the Missouri side of +this vast highland plateau. It was still some hours to sunset, and we +had gone about four miles farther when we reached a large, broad stream, +also flowing towards the north-west. It had a rapid and deep current, on +each side of which was a wide space of shallow water, and boulders of +limestone and sandstone. It required some skill to cross this river, as +it was too deep to ford. The horse was led into the edge of the stream +and driven over, coming out with his pack safely on the other side. The +shallow parts offered no obstacle; and we bridged the deeper portion of +the channel with limbs and trunks of trees, which had been brought down +by the stream when in flood and left upon its banks, and, being denuded +of their bark, were light and dry, and as white as bleached bones. + +I had crossed the channel safely, after my companion; but he disturbed +the bridge on stepping from it, and caused me to slip from the stick. +Having my gun in my right hand, I naturally extended it, to break my +fall. Each end of it, as it reached the stream, rested on a stone, and, +my whole weight being in the centre, the barrel was slightly sprung. +This bridge, for the purpose of reference, I called Calamarca. After +crossing the stream, we came to a stand, and, on consultation, explored +it downward, to determine its general course; but, finding it to incline +toward the north-west, we returned up its southern bank two or three +miles above our rustic bridge, and encamped. + + +Nov. 17th. In the morning we proceeded in a south-south-westerly +direction, which, after keeping up the valley from the camp of +Calamarca for a few miles, carried us up an elevated range of hills, +covered with large oaks bearing acorns. We had reached the top of a +ridge which commanded a view of a valley beyond it, when we observed, +far below us in the valley, four bears on an oak, eating sweet acorns. +The descent was steep and rough, with loose stones, which made it +impossible to lead the horse down without disturbing them. We therefore +tied him to a staddle, and, after looking to our priming, we began to +descend the height. But, as the leaves had all fallen, concealment was +impossible; and when the animals became alarmed, and began to come down +the tree, we ran at our utmost speed to reach its foot first. In this +effort, my companion fell on the loose stones, and sprained his ankle; I +kept on, but did not reach the foot of the tree in time to prevent their +escape, and I followed them some distance. When my companion's absence +led me back to him, I found him badly hurt; he limped along with the +utmost difficulty. I soon mounted him on the pack-horse, and led up the +little valley; but the pain of his ankle became so intense, that he +could not bear the motion, and, after proceeding a mile or two, we +determined to halt and encamp. We had not travelled from our morning's +encampment more than five or six miles. I accordingly unpacked the +horse, prepared a pallet for my companion, and built a fire. I then +bathed his ankle with salt and warm water. This done, I took my gun, and +sauntered along the thickets in the hope of starting some game. Nothing, +however, was found. The shrill and unmusical cry of the bluejay, which +was the largest bird I saw, reminded me of other latitudes. Thoughtful, +and full of apprehension at this untoward accident, I returned to our +little camp, and diligently renewed my antalgic applications. + + +Nov. 18th. A night's rest, and the little remedies in my power to +employ, had so far abated the pain of my companion's ankle, that he +again consented to mount the pack-horse, and we pursued our way up the +little valley in which we had encamped. We had not, however, travelled +far, when we saw two large black bears playing in the grass before us, +and so intently engaged in their sport that they did not observe us. My +companion, with my aid, quickly dismounted. We examined our arms, tied +the horse, and, having determined to fire together, had reached our +several stations before the animals noticed our approach. They at first +ran a few yards, but then turned and sat up in the high, sere grass, to +see what had disturbed them. We fired at the same moment, each having +singled out his mark. Both animals fled, but on reaching the spot where +the one I fired at had sat, blood was copiously found on the grass. I +pursued him and his mate over an adjoining ridge, where I lost sight of +them; but discovering, on crossing the ridge, a hollow oak, into which I +judged they had crept, I went back for the axe to fell it. While engaged +at this, my companion hobbled up, and relieved me at the axe. The tree +at length came down with a thundering crash, partially splitting in its +fall, and I stood ready with my gun to receive the discomfited inmates; +but, after gazing intently for a time, none appeared. It was now evident +they had eluded us, and that we had lost the track. The excitement had +almost cured my companion's lameness; but it returned when the pursuit +was over, and, resuming his position on the horse, we proceeded over a +succession of high, oak-covered ridges. In crossing one of these, a +large and stately elk offered another object for our notice. He had an +enormous pair of horns, which it seemed he must find it difficult to +balance in browsing; but the moment he became aware of our propinquity, +he lifted his head, and, throwing back the antlers, they seemed to form +shields for his shoulders and sides while plunging forward through the +thickets. We stood a moment to admire his splendid leaps. + +These incidents had carried us a few miles out of our course. We were on +high broken summits, which resembled, in their surface, what may be +conceived of the tossing waves of a sea suddenly congealed. On +descending from these towards the south, we came to clumps of bushes, +with gravelly areas between, and an occasional standing pool of pure +water. It was very evident to our minds, as we advanced, that these +pools must communicate with each other through the gravel, and that +there were seasons when there was more water washed from the hills. On +following down this formation about six miles, the connection became +more evident, and the sources of an important river developed +themselves. We were, in fact, on the extreme head-waters of the Great +North Fork of White river; the Unica of the Cherokees, and the _Riviere +au Blanc_ of the French. The manner in which the waters develop +themselves on descending the southern slope of these highlands, is +remarkable. They proceed in plateaux or steps, on each of which the +stream deploys in a kind of lake, or elongated basin, connected with the +next succeeding one by a narrow rapid. The rock is a grey sandstone in +the lower situations, capped with limestone. In some places the water +wholly disappears, and seems to permeate the rock. We came to a place +where the river, being some four feet deep, is entirely absorbed by the +rock, and does not again appear till a mile below, where it suddenly +issues from the rock, in its original volume. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + + DESCEND THE VALLEY--ITS DIFFICULTIES--HORSE ROLLS DOWN A + PRECIPICE--PURITY OF THE WATER--ACCIDENT CAUSED THEREBY-- + ELKHORN SPRING--TOWER CREEK--HORSE PLUNGES OVER HIS DEPTH + IN FORDING, AND DESTROYS WHATEVER IS DELIQUESCENT IN HIS + PACK--ABSENCE OF ANTIQUITIES, OR EVIDENCES OF ANCIENT + HABITATION--A REMARKABLE CAVERN--PINCHED FOR FOOD--OLD + INDIAN LODGES--THE BEAVER--A DESERTED PIONEER'S CAMP-- + INCIDENT OF THE PUMPKIN. + + +Nov. 19th. Daylight put us in motion. It was determined to follow the +valley down in its involutions, which led us, generally, south. We +passed over some fertile, heavily timbered bottoms, where I observed the +elm, oak, beech, maple, ash, and sycamore. We had not left our camp more +than a mile, when we came to the first appearance of the _C. +arundinacea_, or cane, and we soon after reached the locality of the +greenbriar. Travelling in these rich forests is attended with great +fatigue and exertion from the underbrush, particularly from the thick +growth of cane and greenbriar; the latter of which often binds masses of +the fields of cane together, and makes it next to impossible to force a +horse through the matted vegetation. Our horse, indeed, while he +relieved us from the burden of carrying packs, became the greatest +impediment to our getting forward, while in this valley. To find an +easier path, we took one of the summit ranges of the valley. But a +horse, it seems, must have no climbing to do, when he is under a +pack-saddle. We had not gone far on this ridge, when the animal slipped, +or stumbled. The impetus of his load was more than he could resist. The +declivity was steep, but not precipitous. He rolled over and over for +perhaps two hundred feet, until he reached the foot of the ridge. We +looked with dismay as he went, and thought that every bone in his body +must have been broken. When we reached him, however, he was not dead, +but, with our aid, got up. How he escaped we could not divine, but he +looked pleased when he saw us come to his relief, and busy ourselves in +extricating him. We unloosed his pack, and did all we could to restore +him. We could not find any outward bruise; there was no cut, and no +blood was started. Even a horse loves sympathy. After a time, we +repacked him, and slowly continued our route. The delay caused by this +accident, made this a short day's journey; we did not suppose ourselves +to have advanced, in a direct line, over twelve miles. The valley is +very serpentine, redoubling on itself. + + +Nov. 20th. We found the stream made up entirely of pure springs, gushing +from the gravel, or rocks. Nothing can exceed the crystal purity of its +waters. These springs are often very large. We came to one, in the +course of this day, which we judged to be fifty feet wide. It rushes out +of an aperture in the rock, and joins the main branch of the river about +six hundred yards below, in a volume quite equal to that of the main +fork. I found an enormous pair of elk's horns lying on one side of the +spring, which I lifted up and hung in the forks of a young oak, and from +this incident named it the Elkhorn Spring. + +In forcing my way through the rank vines, weeds, and brush, which +encumber the valley below this point, I lost my small farrier's hammer +from my belt; a loss which was irreparable, as it was the only means we +had of setting a shoe on our horse, and had also served on ordinary +occasions as a mineral-hammer, instead of the heavier implement in the +pack. + +We often disturbed the black bear from his lair in the thick canebrakes, +but travelled with too much noise to overtake him. The deer frequently +bounded across the valley, while turkey, squirrel, duck, and smaller +game, were also abundant. + + +Nov. 21st. The bottom-lands continued to improve in extent and fertility +as we descended. The stream, as it wears its way into deeper levels of +the stratification of the country, presents, on either side, high cliffs +of rock. These cliffs, which consist of horizontal limestone, resting on +sandstone, frequently present prominent pinnacles, resembling ruinous +castellated walls. In some places they rise to an astonishing height, +and they are uniformly crowned with yellow pines. A remarkable formation +of this description appeared to-day, at the entrance of a tributary +stream through these walled cliffs, on the left bank, which I called +Tower Creek; it impressed one with the idea of the high walls of a +ruined battlement. + +The purity and transparency of the water are so remarkable, that it is +often difficult to estimate its depth in the river. A striking instance +of this occurred after passing this point. I was leading the horse. In +crossing from the east to the west bank, I had led Butcher to a spot +which I thought he could easily ford, without reaching above his knees. +He plunged in, however, over his depth, and, swimming across with his +pack, came to elevated shores on the other side, which kept him so long +in the water, and we were detained so long in searching for a suitable +point for him to mount, that almost everything of a soluble character in +his pack was either lost or damaged. Our salt and sugar were mostly +spoiled; our tea and Indian meal damaged; our skins, blankets, and +clothing, saturated. This mishap caused us a world of trouble. Though +early in the day, we at once encamped. I immediately built a fire, the +horse was speedily unpacked, and each particular article was examined, +and such as permitted it, carefully dried. This labor occupied us till a +late hour in the night. + + +Nov. 22d. Up to this point we had seen no Osages, of whose predatory +acts we had heard so much at Potosi, and on the sources of the Maramec; +nor any signs of their having been in this section of the country during +a twelvemonth, certainly not since spring. All the deserted camps, and +the evidences of encampment, were old. The bones of animals eaten, found +on the high plains east of Calamarca, and at the Elkhorn spring, were +bleached and dry. Not a vestige had appeared, since leaving the +Wall-cliffs, of a human being having recently visited the country. The +silence and desolateness of the wilderness reigned around. And when we +looked for evidences of an ancient permanent occupation of the region by +man, there were none--not a hillock raised by human hands, nor the +smallest object that could be deemed antiquarian. The only evidences of +ancient action were those of a geological kind--caverns, valleys of +denudation, beds of drift, boulders, water-lines and markings on the +faces of cliffs, which betokened oceanic overflow at very antique or +primary periods. + +The difficulties attending our progress down the valley, induced us to +strike out into the open prairie, where travelling was free, and +unimpeded by shrubbery or vines. Nothing but illimitable fields of +grass, with clumps of trees here and there, met the eye. We travelled +steadily, without diverging to the right or left. We sometimes disturbed +covies of prairie birds; the rabbit started from his sheltering bush, or +the deer enlivened the prospect. We had laid our course +south-south-west, and travelled about twenty miles. As evening +approached, we searched in vain for water, to encamp. In quest of it, we +finally entered a desolate gorge, which seemed, at some seasons, to have +been traversed by floods, as it disclosed boulders and piles of rubbish. +Daylight departed as we wound our way down this dry gorge, which was +found to be flanked, as we descended, with towering cliffs. In the +meantime, the heavens became overcast with dense black clouds, and rain +soon began to fall. We scanned these lofty cliffs closely, as we were in +a cavernous limestone country, for evidences of some practicable opening +which might give us shelter for the night. At length, after daylight had +gone, the dark mouth of a large cavern appeared on our left, at some +twenty or thirty feet elevation. The horse could not be led up this +steep, but, by unpacking him, we carried the baggage up, and then +hobbled and belled the poor beast, and left him to pick a meal as best +he could in this desolate valley. It was the best, and indeed the only +thing, we could do for him. + +It was not long before I had a fire in the cave, which threw its red +rays upon the outlines of the cavern, in a manner which would have +formed a study for Michael Angelo. It seemed that internal waters had +flowed out of this cavern for ages, carrying particle by particle of the +yielding rock, by which vast masses had been scooped out, or hung still +in threatening pendants. Its width was some forty feet, its height +perhaps double that space, and its depth illimitable. A small stream of +pure water glided along its bottom, and went trickling down the cliff. + +The accident in crossing the stream had saturated, but not ruined our +tea; and we soon had an infusion of it, to accompany our evening's +frugal repast--for _frugal_ indeed it became, in meats and bread, after +our irreparable loss of the day previous. Nothing is more refreshing +than a draught of tea in the wilderness, and one soon experiences that +this effect is due neither to milk nor sugar. The next thing to be done +after supper, was to light a torch and explore the recesses of the cave, +lest it should be occupied by some carnivorous beasts, who might fancy a +sleeping traveller for a night's meal. Sallying into its dark recesses, +gun and torch in hand, we passed up a steep ascent, which made it +difficult to keep our feet. This passage, at first, turned to the right, +then narrowed, and finally terminated in a low gallery, growing smaller +and smaller towards its apparent close. This passage became too low to +admit walking, but by the light of our torch, which threw its rays far +into its recesses, there appeared no possibility of our proceeding +further. We then retraced our steps to our fire in the front of the +cave, where there were evidences of Indian camp-fires. We then +replenished our fire with fuel, and spread down our pallets for the +night. My companion soon adjusted himself in a concave part of the rock, +and went to sleep. I looked out from the front of the cave to endeavor +to see the horse; but although I caught a sound of his bell, nothing +could be seen but intense darkness. The rain had been slight, and had +abated; but the cliffs in front, and the clouds above the narrow valley, +rendered it impossible to see anything beyond the reach of the +flickering rays of our fire. To its precincts I returned, and entered up +my journal of the events of the day. Our situation, and the +peculiarities of the scenery around us, led me to reflect on that +mysterious fate which, in every hazard, attends human actions, and, by +the light of the fire, I pencilled the annexed lines, and clapt down the +cavern in my journal as the Cave of Tula.[6] + +LINES WRITTEN IN A CAVE IN THE WILDERNESS OF ARKANSAS. + + O! thou, who, clothed in magic spell, + Delight'st in lonely wilds to dwell, + Resting in rift, or wrapped in air, + Remote from mortal ken, or care: + Genius of caverns drear and wild, + Hear a suppliant wandering child-- + One, who nor a wanton calls, + Or intruder in thy walls: + One, who spills not on the plain, + Blood for sport, or worldly gain, + Like his red barbarian kin, + Deep in murder--foul in sin; + Or, with high, horrific yells, + Rends thy dark and silent cells; + But, a devious traveller nigh, + Weary, hungry, parched, and dry; + One, who seeks thy shelter blest, + Not to riot, but to rest. + + Grant me, from thy crystal rill, + Oft my glittering cup to fill; + Let thy dwelling, rude and high, + Make my nightly canopy, + And, by superhuman walls, + Ward the dew that nightly falls. + Guard me from the ills that creep + On the houseless traveller's sleep-- + From the ravenous panther's spring, + From the scorpion's poisoned sting, + From the serpent--reptile curst-- + And the Indian's midnight thrust. + Grant me this, aerial sprite, + And a balmy rest by night, + Blest by visions of delight! + Let me dream of friendship true, + And that human ills are few; + Let me dream that boyhood's schemes + Are not, what I've found them, dreams; + And his hopes, however gay, + Have not flitted fast away. + Let me dream, I ne'er have felt, + Ease that pleases, joys that melt; + Or that I shall ever find + Honor fair, or fortune kind; + Dream that time shall sweetly fling, + In my path, perpetual spring. + Let me dream my bosom never + Felt the pang from friends to sever; + Or that life is not replete, + Or with loss, pain, wo, deceit. + Let me dream, misfortune's smart + Ne'er hath wrung my bleeding heart; + Nor its potent, galling sway, + Forced me far, O! far away; + Let me dream it--for I know, + When I wake, it is not so![7] + + +Nov. 23d. My first care this morning was to find Butcher, who had been +left, last night, with a sorry prospect. He was not to be found. I +followed our back track to the plains, whither he had gone for his +night's meal. By the time I returned with him, the forenoon was wellnigh +gone. We then travelled to the south-east. This brought us, in due time, +again into the valley of the North Fork. We found it less encumbered +with vines and thickets, and very much widened in its expansion between +bluff and bluff. We forded it, and found, on its eastern margin, +extensive open oak plains. On one of the most conspicuous trees were +marks and letters, which proved that it had been visited and singled out +for settlement by some enterprising pioneer. From the open character of +the country, we could not get near to large game; and we now found that +our supply of ball and shot was near its close. We passed down the +valley about ten miles, and encamped. Since the loss of our corn-meal, +we had had nothing in the shape of bread, and our provisions were now +reduced to a very small quantity of dried meat. We had expected, for +some days, to have reached either Indian or white hunters' camps. Our +anxiety on this head now became intense. Prudence required, however, +that, small as our stores were, they should be divided with strict +reference to the probability of our not meeting with hunters, or getting +relief, for two or three days. + + +Nov. 24th. The stick frames, without bark, of several Indian lodges, +were passed to-day, denoting that they had not been recently occupied. +Travelling down the opposite side of the vale from that taken by my +companion, who had charge of the horse, I came to a point on the bank of +the river, where I discovered two grown beavers sporting in the stream. +The tail of this animal, which appears clumsy and unwieldy in the dead +specimen, gives the animal a graceful appearance in the water, where it +makes him appear to have a very elongated body. After diving about for +some time, they came to the shore, and sat in front of their _wauzh_, as +it is termed by the Algonquins, or lodge, which in this case was a +fissure in the rock. I was perfectly screened by a point of the rock +from their view, and sat with my gun cocked, reserving my fire, a few +moments, the more perfectly to observe them, when both animals, at the +same instant, darted into their holes. + +Under the influence of a keen appetite, and a tolerably open forest, we +pressed on, this day, about fifteen miles; the horse being, as usual, +our chief hindrance. + + +Nov. 25th. I took the horse's bridle over my arm this morning, and had +proceeded through open woods about ten miles, when we descried, from a +little summit, a hut in the distance, which had some traits of the labor +of white men. This gave animation to our steps, in the hope of finding +it occupied. But, as we approached, we could discern no smoke rising up +as the sign of occupancy, and were disappointed to find it an abortive +effort of some pioneer, and, at the moment, called it Camp No. We +afterwards learned that it had been constructed by one Martin, who, as +there was not a foot of land in cultivation, had probably aimed to +subsist by the chase alone. The location was well chosen. A large +canebrake flanked the river, sufficient to give range to horses and +cattle. A little tributary stream bounded a fertile piece of upland, +east of this. The hut was built of puncheons, supported on one side by a +rude ridge-pole, leaving the front of it open, forming a shed which had +a roof and floor. But the stream had now dried up. We found a plant of +cotton, bolled out, among the adjacent weeds, which proved the soil and +climate suitable to its culture. We were now well within the probable +limits of Arkansas. + +It was determined to encamp at this spot, turn the horse into the +adjacent canebrake, where the leaves were green, to deposit our baggage +and camp apparatus in one corner of the hut, and, after making light +packs, to take our arms, and proceed in search of settlements. This +required a little time. To reach a point where civilization had once +tried to get a foothold, however, was something; and we consoled +ourselves with the reflection that we could not be remote from its +skirts. + +The next day (26th) I made an excursion west of the river, from our +position, about five miles, to determine satisfactorily our situation. I +found, on the opposite side of the valley, a little higher up, at the +foot of the cliff, another small (white man's) hut, which had also been +abandoned. In a small patch of ground, which had once been cleared, +there grew a pumpkin vine, which then had three pumpkins. This was a +treasure, which I at once secured. I found that one of them had been +partially eaten by some wild animal, and determined to give it to my +horse, but could not resist the inclination first to cut off a few +slices, which I ate raw with the greatest appetite. The taste seemed +delicious. I had not before been aware that my appetite had become so +keen by fasting; for we had had but little to eat for many days. Between +the horse and myself, we finished it, and had quite a sociable time of +it. With the other two, which were the largest, I rode back to camp, +where, having a small camp-kettle, we boiled and despatched them, +without meat or bread, for supper. It does not require much to make one +happy; for, in this instance, our little luck put us in the best of +humor. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[6] De Soto. + +[7] These lines were published in the Belles-Lettres Repository in 1821, +and shortly after, with a commendation, in the New York Statesman. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + + ABANDON OUR CAMP AND HORSE IN SEARCH OF SETTLEMENTS--INCIDENTS + OF THE FIRST DAY--HEAR A SHOT--CAMP IN AN OLD INDIAN LODGE-- + ACORNS FOR SUPPER--KILL A WOODPECKER--INCIDENTS OF THE SECOND + DAY--STERILE RIDGES--WANT OF WATER--CAMP AT NIGHT IN A DEEP + GORGE--INCIDENTS OF THE THIRD DAY--FIND A HORSE-PATH, AND + PURSUE IT--DISCOVER A MAN ON HORSEBACK--REACH A HUNTER'S + CABIN--INCIDENTS THERE--HE CONDUCTS US BACK TO OUR OLD CAMP + --DESERTED THERE WITHOUT PROVISIONS--DEPLORABLE STATE--SHIFTS + --TAKING OF A TURKEY. + + +Nov. 27th. Action is the price of safety in the woods. Neither dreams +nor poetic visions kept us on our pallets a moment longer than it was +light enough to see the grey tints of morning. Each of us prepared a +compact knapsack, containing a blanket and a few absolute necessaries, +and gave our belts an extra jerk before lifting our guns to our +shoulders; then, secretly wishing our friend Butcher a good time in the +canebrake, we set out with a light pace towards the south. My companion +Bonee[8] was much attached to tea, and, as the article of a small tin +pot was indispensable to the enjoyment of this beverage, he burthened +himself with this appendage by strapping it on his back with a green +sash. This was not a very military sort of accoutrement; but as he did +not pride himself in that way, and had not, in fact, the least notion of +the ridiculous figure he cut with it, I was alone in my unexpressed +sense of the Fridayishness of his looks on the march, day by day, across +the prairies and through the woods, with this not very glittering +culinary appendage dangling at his back. + +Hope gave animation to our steps. We struck out from the valley +southerly, which brought us to an elevated open tract, partially wooded, +in which the walking was good. After travelling about six miles, we +heard the report of a gun on our left. Supposing it to proceed from some +white hunter, we tried to get into communication with him, and hallooed +stoutly. This was answered. I withdrew the ball from my gun, and fired. +We then followed the course of the shot and halloo. But, although a +whoop was once heard, which seemed from its intonation to be Indian, we +were unsuccessful in gaining an interview, and, after losing a good deal +of time in the effort, were obliged to give it up, and proceed. We had +now lost some hours. + +Much of our way lay through open oak forests, with a thick bed of fallen +leaves, and we several times searched under these for sweet acorns; but +we uniformly found that the wild turkeys had been too quick for +us--every sweet acorn had been scratched up and eaten, and none remained +but such as were bitter and distasteful. On descending an eminence, we +found the sassafras plentifully, and, breaking off branches of it, +chewed them, which took away the astringent and bad taste of the acorns. + +As night approached, we searched in vain for water on the elevated +grounds, and were compelled to seek the river valley, where we encamped +in an old Indian wigwam of bark, and found the night chilly and cold. We +turned restlessly on our pallets, waiting for day. + + +Nov. 28th. Daylight was most welcome. I built a fire against the stump +of a dead tree, which had been broken off by lightning at a height of +some thirty or forty feet from the ground. We here boiled our tea, and +accurately divided about half an ounce of dried meat, being the last +morsel we had. While thus engaged, a red-headed woodpecker lit on the +tree, some fifteen or twenty feet above our heads, and began pecking. +The visit was a most untimely one for the bird. In a few more moments, +he lay dead at the foot of the tree, and, being plucked, roasted, and +divided, furnished out our repast. We then gave the straps of our +accoutrements a tight jerk, by way of preventing a flaccid stomach--an +Indian habit--and set forward with renewed strength and hope. We +travelled this day over a rolling country of hill and dale, with little +to relieve the eye or demand observation, and laid down at night, +fatigued, in the edge of a canebrake. + + +Nov. 29th. A dense fog, which overhung the whole valley, prevented our +quitting camp at a very early hour. When it arose, and the atmosphere +became sufficiently clear to discern our way, we ascended the hills to +our left, and took a west-south-west course. + +Nothing can exceed the roughness and sterility of the country we have +to-day traversed, and the endless succession of steep declivities, and +broken, rocky precipices, surmounted. Our line of march, as soon as we +left the low grounds of the river valley, led over moderately elevated +ridges of oak-openings. We came at length to some hickory trees. Beneath +one of them, the nuts laid in quantities on the ground. We sat down, and +diligently commenced cracking them; but this was soon determined to be +too slow a process to satisfy hungry men, and, gathering a quantity for +our night's encampment, we pushed forward diligently. Tramp! tramp! +tramp! we walked resolutely on, in a straight line, over hill and dale. +Trees, rocks, prairie-grass, the jumping squirrel, the whirring +quail--we gave them a glance, and passed on. We finally saw the sun set; +evening threw its shades around; night presented its sombre hue; and, as +it grew dark, it became cloudy and cold. Still, no water to encamp by +was found, and it finally became so dark that we were forced to grope +our way. By groping in the darkness, we at length stood on the brink of +a precipice, and could distinctly hear the gurgling sound of running +water in the gulf below. It was a pleasing sound; for we had not tasted +a drop since early dawn. Had we still had our horse, we should not have +been able to get him down in the darkness; but, by seizing hold of +bushes, and feeling our way continually, we reached the bottom, and +encamped immediately by the stream. It was a small run of pure mountain +water. Soon a fire arose on its banks. We cracked a few of the nuts. We +drank our accustomed tin-cup of tea. We wrapped ourselves in our +blankets upon its immediate margin, and knew no more till early +daylight, when a cold air had quite chilled us. + + +Nov. 30th. We were happy to get out of this gulf at the earliest dawn. +After travelling a couple of miles, we stepped suddenly into a +well-beaten horse-path, running transversely to our course, with fresh +horse-tracks leading both ways. We stopped to deliberate which end of +the path to take. I thought the right-hand would conduct us to the mouth +of the river which we had been pursuing down, where it could hardly fail +there should be hunters or pioneer settlers located. My companion +thought the left hand should be taken, without offering any satisfactory +reason for it. I determined, in an instant, to rise above him mentally, +by yielding the point, and set out with a firm and ready pace to the +left. We travelled diligently about three miles without meeting anything +to note, but were evidently going back into the wilderness we had just +left, by a wider circuit, when my companion relented, and we turned +about on our tracks toward the mouth of the river. We had not gone far, +and had not yet reached the point of our original issue from the forest, +when we descried a man on horseback, coming toward us. Joy flashed in +our eyes. When he came up, he told us that there was a hunter located at +the mouth of the river, and another, named Wells, nearly equidistant on +the path he was pursuing; and that, if we would follow him, he would +guide us to the latter. This we immediately determined to do, and, after +travelling about seven miles, came in sight of the cabin. + +Our approach was announced by a loud and long-continued barking of dogs, +who required frequent bidding from their master before they could be +pacified. The first object worthy of remark that presented itself on our +emerging from the forest, was a number of deer, bear, and other skins, +fastened to a kind of rude frame, supported by poles, which occupied the +area about the house. These trophies of skill in the chase were regarded +with great complacency by our conductor, as he pointed them out, and he +remarked that Wells was "a great hunter, and a forehanded man." There +were a number of acres of ground, from which he had gathered a crop of +corn. The house was a substantial, new-built log tenement, of one room. +The family consisted of the hunter and his wife, and four or five +children, two of whom were men grown, and the youngest a boy of about +sixteen. All, males and females, were dressed in leather prepared from +deerskins. The host himself was a middle-sized, light-limbed, +sharp-faced man. Around the walls of the room hung horns of the deer and +buffalo, with a rifle, shot-pouches, leather coats, dried meats, and +other articles, giving unmistakeable signs of the vocation of our host. +The furniture was of his own fabrication. On one side hung a deerskin, +sewed up in somewhat the shape of the living animal, containing bears' +oil. In another place hung a similar vessel, filled with wild honey. + +All the members of the family seemed erudite in the knowledge of +woodcraft, the ranges and signs of animals, and their food and habits; +and while the wife busied herself in preparing our meal, she +occasionally stopped to interrogate us, or take part in the +conversation. When she had finished her preparations, she invited us to +sit down to a delicious meal of warm corn-bread and butter, honey and +milk, to which we did ample justice. A more satisfactory meal I never +made. + +It was late in the afternoon when our supper was prepared, and we spent +the evening in giving and receiving information of the highest practical +interest to each party. Wells recited a number of anecdotes of hunting, +and of his domestic life. We repaid him with full accounts of our +adventures. What appeared to interest him most, was the accounts of the +bears and other wild animals we had seen. When the hour for rest +arrived, we opened our sacks, and, spreading our blankets on a bearskin +which he furnished, laid down before the fire, and enjoyed a sound +night's repose. + + +Dec. 1st. We were up with the earliest dawning of light, and determined +to regain our position at Camp No, on the Great North Fork, with all +possible despatch, and pursue our tour westward. We had understood from +the conversation of the hunters among themselves, that they designed +forthwith to proceed on a hunting excursion into the region we had +passed, on the Great North Fork, and determined to avail ourselves of +their guidance to our deposits and horse. We understood that our course +from that point had been circuitous, and that the place could be reached +by a direct line of twenty miles' travel due north-west. We purchased +from our host a dressed deerskin for moccasins, a small quantity of +Indian corn, some wild honey, and a little lead. The corn required +pounding to convert it into meal. This we accomplished by a pestle, +fixed to a loaded swing-pole, playing into a mortar burned into an oak +stump. The payment for these articles, being made in money, excited the +man's cupidity; for, although he had previously determined on going in +that direction, he now refused to guide us to Camp No, unless paid for +it. This was also assented to, with the agreement to furnish us with the +carcase of a deer. + +By eleven o'clock, A. M., all was ready, and, shouldering our knapsacks +and guns, we set forward, accompanied by our host, his three sons, and a +neighbor, making our party to consist of seven men, all mounted on +horses but ourselves, and followed by a pack of hungry, yelping dogs. +Our course was due north-west. As we were heavily laden and sore-footed, +our shoes being literally worn from our feet by the stony tracts we had +passed over, the cavalcade were occasionally obliged to halt till we +came up. This proved such a cause of delay to them, that they finally +agreed to let us ride and walk, alternately, with the young men. In this +way we passed over an undulating tract, not heavily timbered, until +about ten o'clock at night, when we reached our abandoned camp, where we +found our baggage safe. A couple of the men had been detached from the +party, early in the morning, to hunt the stipulated deer; but they did +not succeed in finding any, and came in long before us, with a pair of +turkeys. One of these we despatched for supper, and then all betook +themselves to repose. + + +Dec. 2d. One of the first objects that presented itself this morning was +our horse Butcher, from the neighboring canebrake, who did not seem to +have well relished his fare on cane leaves, and stood doggedly in front +of our cabin, with a pertinacity which seemed to say, "Give me my +portion of corn." Poor animal! he had not thriven on the sere grass and +scanty water of the Ozarks, where he had once tumbled down the sides of +a cliff with a pack on, been once plunged in the river beyond his depth, +and often struggled with the tangled greenbriar of the valleys, which +held him by the foot. With every attention, he had fallen away; and he +seemed to anticipate that he was yet destined to become wolf's-meat on +the prairies. + +The hunters were up with the earliest dawn, and several of them went out +in quest of game, recollecting their promise to us on that head; but +they all returned after an absence of a couple of hours, unsuccessful. +By this time we had cooked the other turkey for breakfast, which just +sufficed for the occasion. The five men passed a few moments about the +fire, then suddenly caught and saddled their horses, and, mounting +together, bid us good morning, and rode off. We were taken quite aback +by this movement, supposing that they would have felt under obligation, +as they had been paid for it, to furnish us some provisions. We looked +intently after them, as they rode up the long sloping eminence to the +north of us. They brought forcibly to my mind the theatrical +representation, in the background, of the march of the Forty Thieves, as +they wind down the mountain, before they present themselves at the front +of the cave, with its charmed gates. But there was no "open sesame!" for +us. Cast once more on our own resources in the wilderness, the +alternative seemed to be pressed upon our minds, very forcibly, "hunt or +starve." Serious as the circumstances appeared, yet, when we reflected +upon their manners and conversation, their obtuseness to just +obligation, their avarice, and their insensibility to our actual wants, +we could not help rejoicing that they were gone. + + +Dec. 3d. Left alone, we began to reflect closely on our situation, and +the means of extricating ourselves from this position. If we had called +it camp "No" from our disappointment at not finding it inhabited on our +first arrival, it was now again appropriately camp "No," from not +obtaining adequate relief from the hunters. We had procured a dressed +buckskin for making moccasins. We had a little pounded corn, in a shape +to make hunters' bread. We had not a mouthful of meat. I devoted part of +the day to making a pair of Indian shoes. We had not a single charge of +shot left. We had procured lead enough to mould just five bullets. This +I carefully did. I then sallied out in search of game, scanning +cautiously the neighboring canebrake, and fired, at different times, +three balls, unsuccessfully, at turkeys. It was evident, as I had the +birds within range, that my gun had been sprung in the heavy fall I had +had, as before related, in the crossing Calamarca. My companion then +took _his_ gun, and also made an unsuccessful shot. When evening +approached, a flock of turkeys came to roost near by. We had now just +_one_ ball left; everything depended on _that_. I took it to the large +and firm stump of an oak, and cut it into exactly thirty-two pieces, +with geometrical precision. I then beat the angular edges of each, until +they assumed a sufficiently globular shape to admit of their being +rolled on a hard surface, under a pressure. This completed their +globular form. I then cleansed my companion's gun, and carefully loaded +it with the thirty-two shot. We then proceeded to the roost, which was +on some large oaks, in a contiguous valley. I carried a torch, which I +had carefully made at the camp. My companion took the loaded gun, and I, +holding the torch near the sights at the same time, so that its rays +fell directly on the birds, he selected one, and fired. It proved to be +one of the largest and heaviest, and fell to the earth with a sound. We +now returned to camp, and prepared a part of it for supper, determining +to husband the remainder so as to last till we should reach settlements +by holding a due west course. + + +Dec. 4th. We had prepared ourselves to start west this day; but it +rained from early dawn to dark, which confined us closely to our cabin. +Rain is one of the greatest annoyances to the woodsman. Generally, he +has no shelter against it, and must sit in it, ride in it, or walk in +it. Where there is no shelter, the two latter are preferable. But, as we +had a split-board roof, we kept close, and busied ourselves with more +perfect preparations for our next sally. I had some minerals that +admitted of being more closely and securely packed, and gladly availed +myself of the opportunity to accomplish it. Our foot and leg gear, also, +required renovating. Experience had been our best teacher from the +first; and hunger and danger kept us perpetually on the _qui vive_, and +made us wise in little expedients. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[8] Elision of Pettibone. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + + PROCEED WEST--BOG OUR HORSE--CROSS THE KNIFE HILLS--REACH THE + UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER--ABANDON THE HORSE AT A HUNTER'S, AND + PROCEED WITH PACKS--OBJECTS OF PITY--SUGAR-LOAF PRAIRIE-- + CAMP UNDER A CLIFF--FORD THE UNICA TWICE--DESCEND INTO A + CAVERN--REACH BEAVER RIVER, THE HIGHEST POINT OF OCCUPANCY + BY A HUNTER POPULATION. + + +Dec. 5th. The rain ceased during the night, and left us a clear +atmosphere in the morning. At an early hour we completed the package of +the horse, and, taking the reins, I led him to the brink of the river, +and with difficulty effected a passage. The cliffs which formed the +western side of the valley, presented an obstacle not easily surmounted. +By leading the animal in a zigzag course, however, this height was +finally attained. The prospect, as far as the eye could reach, was +discouraging. Hill on hill rose before us, with little timber, it is +true, to impede us, but implying a continual necessity of crossing +steeps and depressions. After encountering this rough surface about two +miles, we came into a valley having a stream tributary to the Great +North Fork of White river, which we had quitted that morning, but at a +higher point. In this sub-valley we found our way impeded by another +difficulty--namely, the brush and small canes that grew near the brook. +To avoid this impediment, I took the horse across a low piece of ground, +having a thicket, but which appeared to be firm. In this I was mistaken; +for the animal's feet soon began to sink, and ere long he stuck fast. +The effort to extricate him but served to sink him deeper, and, by +pawing to get out, he continually widened the slough in which he had +sunk. We then obtained poles, and endeavored to pry him up; but our own +footing was continually giving way, and we at length beheld him in a +perfect slough of soft black mud. After getting his pack off, we decided +to leave him to his fate. We carried the pack to dry ground, on one side +of the valley, and spread the articles out, not without deeply +regretting the poor beast's plight. But then it occurred to us that, if +the horse were abandoned, we must also abandon our camp-kettle, large +axe, beds, and most of our camp apparatus; and another and concentrated +effort was finally resolved on. To begin, we cut down two tall saplings, +by means of which the horse was pried up from the bottom of the slough. +He was then grasped by the legs and turned over, which brought his feet +in contact with the more solid part of the ground. A determined effort, +both of horse and help, now brought him to his feet. He raised himself +up, and, by pulling with all our might, we brought him on dry ground. I +then led him gently to our place of deposit, and, by means of bunches of +sere grass, we both busied ourselves first to rub off the mud and wet, +and afterwards to groom him, and rub him dry. When he was properly +restored, it was found that he was able to carry his pack-saddle and +pack; and he was led slowly up the valley about three miles, where we +encamped. The grass in this little valley was of a nourishing quality, +and by stopping early we allowed him to recruit himself. We did not +estimate our whole distance this day at more than nine miles. + + +Dec. 6th. Butcher had improved his time well in the tender grass during +the night, and presented a more spirited appearance in the morning. We +were now near the head of Bogbrook, which we had been following; and as +we quitted its sides, long to be remembered for our mishap, we began to +ascend an elevated and bleak tract of the Mocama or Knife hills, so +called, over which the winds rushed strongly as we urged our way. Few +large trees were seen on these eminences, which were often bare, with a +hard cherty footing, replaced sometimes by clusters of brambles and +thickets. In one of these, a valuable _couteau de chasse_ was swept from +its sheath at my side, and lost. I was now reduced to a single knife, +of the kind fabricated for the Indians, under the name of scalper. For a +distance of sixteen miles we held on our way, in a west-south-west +course, turning neither to the right nor left. As night approached, we +found ourselves descending into a considerable valley, caused by a +river. The shrubbery and grass of its banks had been swept by fire in +the fall, and a new crop of grass was just rising. We formed our +encampment in this fire-swept area, which afforded Butcher another +benefit, and made some amends for his scanty fare among the bleak +eminences of the Ozarks. This stream proved to be the Little North Fork +of White river. We here despatched the last morsel of our turkey. + + +Dec. 7th. The ascent of the hills which bounded the valley on the +south-west was found to be very difficult; and when the summit was +reached, there spread before us an extensive prairie, of varied surface. +Trees occasionally appeared, but were in no place so thickly diffused as +to prevent the growth of a beautiful carpet of prairie grass. When we +had gone about six miles, a bold mound-like hill rose on our left, which +seemed a favorable spot for getting a view of the surrounding country. +We had been told by the hunters that in travelling fifteen miles about +west, we should reach a settlement at Sugar-loaf Prairie, on the main +channel of the Unica or White river. But on reaching the summit of this +natural look-out, we could descry nothing that betokened human +habitation. As far as the eye could reach, prairies and groves filled +the undulating vista. On reaching its foot again, where our horse was +tied, we changed our course to the south, believing that our directions +had been vague. We had gone about a mile in this direction, when we +entered a faint and old horse-path. This gave animation to our steps. We +pursued it about three miles, when it fell into another and plainer +path, having the fresh tracks of horses. We were now on elevated ground, +which commanded views of the country all around. Suddenly the opposite +side of a wide valley appeared to open far beneath us, and, stepping +forward the better to scan it, the river of which we were in search +presented its bright, broad, and placid surface to our view, at several +hundred feet below. We stood admiringly on the top of a high, rocky, and +precipitous cliff. Instinctively to shout, was my first impulse. My +companion, as he came up, also shouted. We had reached the object of our +search. + +Pursuing the brow of the precipice about a mile, a log building and some +fields were discovered on the opposite bank. On descending the path +whose traces we had followed, it brought us to a ford. We at once +prepared to cross the river, which was four or five hundred yards wide, +reaching, in some places, half-leg high. On ascending the opposite bank, +we came to the house of a Mr. M'Garey, who received us with an air of +hospitality, and made us welcome to his abode. He had several grown +sons, who were present, and who, as we found by their costume and +conversation, were hunters. Mrs. M'G. was engaged in trying bears' fat, +and in due time she invited us to sit down to a meal of these scraps, +with excellent corn-bread and sassafras tea, with sugar and milk, served +in cups. + +M'Garey had a bluff frankness of manner, with an air of independence in +the means of living, and an individuality of character, which impressed +us favorably. He told us that we were eight hundred miles west of the +Mississippi by the stream, that White river was navigable by keel-boats +for this distance, and that there were several settlements on its banks. +He had several acres in cultivation in Indian corn, possessed horses, +cows, and hogs, and, as we observed at the door, a hand-mill. At a +convenient distance was a smokehouse, where meats were preserved. I +observed a couple of odd volumes of books on a shelf. He was evidently a +pioneer on the Indian land. He said that the Cherokees had been +improperly located along the western bank of White river, extending to +the Arkansas, and that the effect was to retard and prevent the purchase +and settlement of the country by the United States. He complained of +this, as adverse to the scattered hunters, who were anxious to get +titles for their lands. He did not represent the Cherokees as being +hostile, or as having committed any depredations. But he depicted the +Osages as the scourge and terror of the country. They roamed from the +Arkansas to the Missouri frontier, and pillaged whoever fell in their +way. He detailed the particulars of a robbery committed in the very +house we were sitting in, when they took away horses, clothes, and +whatever they fancied. They had visited him in this way twice, and +recently stole from him eight beaver-skins; and during their last foray +in the valley, they had robbed one of his neighbors, called Teen Friend, +of all his arms, traps, and skins, and detained him a prisoner. This +tribe felt hostile to all the settlers on the outskirts of Missouri and +Arkansas, and were open robbers and plunderers of all the whites who +fell defenceless into their hands. They were, he thought, particularly +to be dreaded in the region which we proposed to explore. He also said +that the Osages were hostile to the newly-arrived Cherokees, who had +migrated from the east side of the Mississippi, and had settled in the +country between the Red river and Arkansas, and that these tribes were +daily committing trespasses upon each other. Having myself, but a short +time before, noticed the conclusion of a peace between the western +Cherokees and Osages at St. Louis, before General Clark, I was surprised +to hear this; but he added, as an illustration of this want of faith, +that when the Cherokees returned from that treaty, they pursued a party +of Osages near the banks of White river, and stole twenty horses from +them. + + +Dec. 8th. On comparing opinions, for which purpose we had an interview +outside the premises, it seemed that these statements were to be +received with some grains of allowance. They were natural enough for a +victim of Indian robberies, and doubtless true; but the events had not +been recent, and they were not deemed sufficient to deter us from +proceeding in our contemplated tour to the higher Ozarks at the sources +of the river. It was evident that we had erred a good deal from our +stick bridge at Calamarca, from the proper track; but we were +nevertheless determined not to relinquish our object. + +Having obtained the necessary information, we determined to pursue our +way, for which purpose we turned the horse to graze with M'Garey's, rid +ourselves of all our heavy baggage by depositing it with him, and +prepared our knapsacks for this new essay. When ready, our host refused +to take any pay for his hospitalities, but, conducting us to his +smokehouse, opened the door, and then, drawing his knife from its +sheath, placed it, with an air of pomposity, in my hand, offering the +handle-end, and said, "Go in and cut." I did so, taking what appeared to +be sufficient to last us to our next expected point of meeting hunters. +The place was well filled with buffalo and bear meat, both smoked and +fresh, hanging on cross-bars. + +At nine o'clock we bade our kind entertainer adieu, and, taking +directions to reach Sugar-loaf Prairie, crossed over the river by the +same ford which we had taken in our outward track from Camp No, in the +valley of the Great North Fork. Relieved from the toilsome task of +leading the horse, we ascended the opposite cliffs with alacrity, and +vigorously pursued our course, over elevated ground, for about sixteen +miles. The path then became obscure; the ground was so flinty and hard, +that it was in vain we searched for tracks of horses' feet. Some time +was lost in this search, and we finally encamped in a cane bottom in the +river valley. + +My companion had again charged himself with the coffeepot, which he +carried in a similar manner at his back; and when I came to open my +pack, told me he thought I had not cut deep enough into the dried bear's +meat of M'Garey's smokehouse. To a man who refused all pay, and had been +invariably kind, I felt that moderation, in this respect, was due. I +was, besides, myself to be the carrier of it; and we, indeed, never had +cause to regret the carefulness of my selection. + + +Dec. 9th. Finding ourselves in the river's bottom, we forced our way, +with no small effort, through the thick growth of cane and vines. We +had, perhaps, advanced seven miles through this dense vegetation, when +we suddenly burst into a small cleared space. Here, in a little, +incomplete shanty, we found a woman and her young child. She had not a +morsel to eat, and looked half famished. Her husband had gone into the +forest to hunt something to eat. The child looked feeble. We were +touched at the sight, and did all we could to relieve them. They had +been in that position of new-comers about two weeks, having come up from +the lower parts of the river. + +From this point, we ascended the river hills eastwardly, and pursued our +journey along an elevated range to the Sugar-loaf Prairie--a name which +is derived from the striking effects of denudation on the limestone +cliffs, which occupy the most elevated positions along this valley. We +were received with blunt hospitality by a tall man in leather, called +Coker, whose manner appears to be characteristic of the hunter. Our +approach was heralded by the usual loud and long barking of dogs, and we +found the premises surrounded by the invariable indications of a +successful hunter--skins of the bear and other animals, stretched out on +frames to dry. + +We were no sooner at home with our entertainer, than he began to +corroborate what we had before heard of the hostility of the Osages. He +considered the journey at this season hazardous, as he thought they had +not yet broke up their fall hunting-camps, and retired to their villages +on the Grand Osaw (Osage). He also thought it a poor season for game, +and presented a rather discouraging prospect to our view. My gun having +proved useless, we tried to obtain a rifle which he possessed, and +seemed willing to part with, but not at a reasonable price. + +Mr. Coker represented the settlers of Sugar-loaf Prairie to consist of +four families, situated within the distance of eight miles, including +both banks of the river. This was exclusive of two families living at +Beaver creek, the highest point yet occupied. + + +Dec. 10th. It was noon before we were prepared to depart from Coker's. +The old man refused to take anything for our meals and lodging; and we +bade him adieu, after taking his directions as to the best route to +pursue to reach Beaver creek, our next point. We travelled through a +lightly-timbered, hilly, barren country, about eight miles, when the +skies became overcast, and some rain fell. It was still an early hour to +encamp, but we came at this time into a small ravine, with running +water, which had on one bank a shelving cave in the limestone rock, +forming a protection from the rain. We built a fire from red cedar, +which emitted a strong aromatic odor. The weather begins to assume a +wintry character; this is the first day we have been troubled with cold +fingers. + + +Dec. 11th. We left our camp at the cave on Cedar brook, and resumed our +march at an early hour, and found the face of the country still rough +and undulating, but covered, to a great extent, with brush. My companion +thought we had gone far enough to have struck the waters of the Beaver, +and, as he carried the compass this day, he deviated westward from the +intended course. This brought us to the banks of a river, which he +insisted, contrary to my opinion, must be the Beaver. To me this did not +seem probable, but, yielding the point to him, we forded the stream at +waist deep. We then ascended a lofty and difficult range of river hills, +and, finding ourselves now at the level of the country, we held on in a +westerly course, till it became clearly evident, even to my companion, +that we were considerably west of the White river. We then retraced our +steps, descended the river hills to the bank of the stream, and followed +up its immediate margin, in search of a convenient spot for encampment; +for, by this time, night approached rapidly. We were soon arrested by a +precipitous cliff, against the base of which the river washed. As the +sun sank lower, we felt a keen and cold wind, but could not find a stick +of wood on the western bank with which to kindle a fire. The alternative +presented to us was, either to remain here all night without a fire, +exposed to the chilling blast, or cross a deep stream to the opposite +shore, where there was an extensive alluvial plain, covered with trees +and the cane plant, and promising an abundance of fuel. + +Night had already closed around us, when we decided to cross the river. +We found it to be four or five feet deep, and some two hundred yards +wide. When we got over, it was with great difficulty that we succeeded +in collecting a sufficiency of dry materials to kindle a fire; and by +the time we had accomplished it, our wet clothes had become stiff and +cold, the wind at the same time blowing very fiercely. Our utmost +efforts were required to dry and warm ourselves, nor did we attain +these points in a sufficient degree to secure a comfortable night's +rest. + + +Dec. 12th. The ground this morning was covered with white hoar-frost, +with a keen and cold air, and a wintry sky. Early daylight found us +treading our way across the low grounds to the cliffs. We soon ascended +on an elevated rocky shore, bordering the river, which was completely +denuded of trees and shrubbery. It was early, the sun not having yet +risen, when we beheld before us, rising out of the ground, a column of +air which appeared to be of a warmer temperature. Its appearance was +like that of smoke from a chimney on a frosty morning. On reaching it, +the phenomenon was found to be caused by a small orifice in the earth, +from which rarefied air issued. On looking down intently, and partially +excluding the light, it was seen to be a fissure in the limestone rock, +with jagged, narrow sides, leading down into a cavern. I determined to +try the descent, and found the opening large enough to admit my body. +Feeling for a protuberance on which to rest my feet, and closely +pressing the sides of the orifice, I slowly descended. My fear was that +the crevice would suddenly enlarge, and let me drop. But I descended in +safety. I thus let myself down directly about twenty feet, and came to +the level floor of a gallery which led in several directions. The light +from above was sufficient to reveal the dark outlines of a ramified +cavern, and to guide my footsteps for a distance. I went as far in the +largest gallery as the light cast any direct rays, but found nothing at +all on the floor or walls to reward my adventure. It was a notable +fissure in a carbonate of lime, entirely dry, and without stalactites. +What I most feared in these dim recesses, was some carnivorous animal, +for whose residence it appeared to be well adapted. Having explored it +as far as I could command any light to retrace my steps, I returned to +the foot of the original orifice. I found no difficulty, by pressing on +each side, in ascending to the surface, bringing along a fragment of the +limestone rock. I afterwards observed, while descending the river, that +this cavern was in a high, precipitous part of the coast, of calcareous +rock, the foot of which was washed by the main channel of White river. + +We now resumed our march, and, at the distance of about six miles, +reached Beaver creek, a mile or two above its mouth. It is a beautiful, +clear stream, of sixty yards wide, with a depth of two feet, and a hard, +gravelly bottom. We forded it, and, keeping down the bank, soon fell +into a horse-path, which led us, in following it about a mile and a +half, to a hunter's dwelling, occupied by a man named Fisher. He +received us in a friendly manner, and we took up our abode with him. Six +or eight hundred yards higher, there was another cabin, occupied by a +man named Holt. Both had been but a short time located at this place; +they had not cleared any ground, nor even finished the log houses they +occupied. Both buildings were on the bank of the river, on the edge of a +large and very fertile bottom, well wooded, and with a very picturesque +coast of limestone opposite, whose denuded pinnacles had received the +name of the Little Tower. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + + OBSTACLE PRODUCED BY THE FEAR OF OSAGE HOSTILITY--MEANS + PURSUED TO OVERCOME IT--NATURAL MONUMENTS OF DENUDATION IN + THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS--PURITY OF THE WATER--PEBBLES OF + YELLOW JASPER--COMPLETE THE HUNTERS' CABINS--A JOB IN + JEWELLERY--CONSTRUCT A BLOWPIPE FROM CANE--WHAT IS THOUGHT + OF RELIGION. + + +Dec. 13th. Holt and Fisher were the highest occupants of the White river +valley. They had reached this spot about four months before, and had +brought their effects partly on pack-horses, and partly in canoes. The +site was judiciously chosen. A finer tract of rich river bottom could +not have been found, while the site commanded an illimitable region, +above and around it, for hunting the deer, buffalo, elk, and other +species, besides the beaver, otter, and small furred animals, which are +taken in traps. We tried, at first vainly, to persuade them to accompany +us in our further explorations. To this they replied that it was Osage +hunting-ground, and that tribe never failed to plunder and rob all +who fell in their power, particularly hunters and trappers. And besides, +they were but recent settlers, and had not yet completed their houses +and improvements. + +As we were neither hunters nor trappers, we had no fears of Osage +hostility; for this was, in a measure, the just retribution of that +tribe for an intrusion on their lands, and the destruction of its game, +which constituted its chief value to them. Nor did we anticipate +encountering them at all, at this season, as they must have withdrawn, +long ere this, to their villages on the river Osage. + + +Dec. 14th. There appears no other way to induce the hunters to go with +us, but to aid them in completing their cottages and improvements. This +we resolved to do. Holt then agreed to accompany us as a guide and +huntsman, with the further stipulation that he was to have the horse +which had been left at M'Garey's, and a small sum of money, with liberty +also to undertake a journey to the settlements below for corn. Hereupon, +Fisher also consented to accompany us. + + +Dec. 15th. This obstacle to our movements being overcome, we busied +ourselves in rendering to the hunters all the assistance in our power, +and made it an object to show them that we could do this effectively. We +began by taking hold of the frow and axe, and aiding Holt to split +boards for covering a portion of the roof of his house. I doubt whether +my companion had ever done the like work before; I am sure I never had; +but having thrown myself on this adventure, I most cheerfully submitted +to all its adverse incidents. + + +Dec. 16th. This morning, Holt and Fisher--the latter accompanied by his +son, with three horses--set out on their journey to purchase corn, +leaving us, in the interim, to provide fuel for their families; a labor +by no means light, as the cold was now severe, and was daily growing +more intense. To-day, for the first time, we observed floating ice in +the river; and, even within the cabins, water exposed in vessels for a +few moments, acquired a thin coating of ice. + + +Dec. 17th. At daybreak we built a substantial, rousing fire in the +cabin, of logs several feet long; we then pounded the quantity of corn +necessary for the family's daily use. This process brings the article +into the condition of coarse grits, which are boiled soft, and it then +bears the name of homony. Of this nutritious dish our meals generally +consist, with boiled or fried bear's bacon, and a decoction of sassafras +tea. The fat of the bear is very white and delicate, and appears to be +more digestible than fresh pork, which is apt to cloy in the stomach. +After breakfast, wishing to give the hunters evidence of our capacity of +being useful, we took our axes and sallied out into the adjoining wood, +and began to fell the trees, cut them into proper lengths for firewood, +and pile the brush. About five o'clock, we were summoned to our second +meal, which is made to serve as dinner and supper. We then carried up +the quantity of firewood necessary for the night. This consumed the +remainder of the short December day; and, before lying down for the +night, we replenished the ample fire. This sketch may serve as an +outline of our daily industry, during the eleven days we tarried with +the hunters. + + +Dec. 18th. I have mentioned the fondness of my companion for tea. This +afternoon he thought to produce an agreeable surprise in our hostess's +mind, by preparing a dish of young hyson. But she sipped it as she would +have done the decoction of some bitter herb, and frankly confessed that +she did not like it as well as the forest substitutes, namely, +sassafras, dittany, and spicewood. And the manner in which she alluded +to it as "store tea," plainly denoted the article not to be numbered +among the wants of a hunter's life. + + +Dec. 19th. The river having been closed with ice within the last two +days, we crossed it this afternoon to visit the two pyramidal monuments +of geological denudation which mark the limestone range of the opposite +shore. I determined, if possible, to ascend one of them. The ascent lies +through a defile of rocks. By means of projections, which could +sometimes be reached by cedar roots, and now and then a leap or a +scramble, I succeeded in ascending one of them to near its apex, which +gave me a fine view of the windings of the river. The monuments consist +of stratified limestone, which has, all but these existing peaks, +crumbled under the effects of disintegration. I observed no traces of +organic remains. It appeared to be of the same general character with +the metalliferous beds of Missouri, and is, viewed in extenso, like +that, based on grey or cream-colored sand-rock. I found this limestone +rock cavernous, about seven miles below. + +In crossing the river, I was impressed with the extreme purity of the +water. The ice near the cliffs having been formed during a calm night, +presented the crystalline purity of glass, through which every +inequality, pebble, and stone in its bed, could be plainly perceived. +The surface on which we stood was about an inch thick, bending as we +walked. The depth of water appeared to be five or six feet; but I was +told that it was fully twenty. The pebbles at this place are often a +small, pear-shaped, opaque, yellow jasper. They appear to have been +disengaged from some mineral bed at a higher point on the stream. + + +Dec. 20th. Observed as a day of rest, it being the Sabbath. The +atmosphere is sensibly milder, and attended with haziness, which appears +to betoken rain. + + +Dec. 21st. We employed ourselves till three o'clock in hewing and +splitting planks for Holt's cabin floor, when rain compelled us to +desist. + +The following circumstance recently occurred here: Two hunters had a +dispute about a horse, which it was alleged one had stolen from the +other; the person aggrieved, meeting the other some days after in the +woods, shot him dead. He immediately fled, keeping the woods for several +weeks; when the neighboring hunters, aroused by so glaring an outrage, +assembled and set out in quest of him. Being an expert woodsman, the +offender eluded them for some time; but at last they obtained a glimpse +of him as he passed through a thicket, when one of his pursuers shot him +through the shoulder, but did not kill him. This event happened a few +days before our arrival in this region. It will probably be the cause of +several murders, before the feud is ended. + + +Dec. 22d. The rain having ceased, we resumed and completed our job of +yesterday at Holt's. The atmosphere is hazy, damp, and warm. + +My medical skill had not been called on since the affair at the Four +Bear creek, where my companion sprained his ankle. The child of Mrs. +Holt was taken ill with a complaint so manifestly bilious, that I gave +it relief by administering a few grains of calomel. This success led to +an application from her neighbor, Mrs. F., whose delicate situation made +the responsibility of a prescription greater. This also proved +favorable, and I soon had other applicants. + + +Dec. 23d. About ten o'clock this morning, Holt and Fisher returned, +laden with corn. The day was mild and pleasant, the severity of the +atmosphere having moderated, and the sky become clear and bright. They +appeared to be pleased with the evidences of our thrift and industry +during their absence, and we now anticipated with pleasure an early +resumption of our journey. To this end, we were resolved that nothing +should be wanting on our part. We had already faithfully devoted seven +days to every species of labor that was necessary to advance their +improvements. + + +Dec. 24th. I had yesterday commenced hewing out a table for Holt's +domicile, from a fine, solid block of white-ash. I finished the task +to-day, to the entire admiration of all. We now removed our lodgings +from Fisher's to Holt's, and employed the remainder of the day in +chinking and daubing his log house. + +Of these two men, who had pushed themselves to the very verge of western +civilization, it will be pertinent to say, that their characters were +quite different. Holt was the better hunter, and more social and ready +man. He was quick with the rifle, and suffered no animal to escape him. +Fisher was of a more deliberative temperament, and more inclined to +surround himself with the reliances of agriculture. He was also the +better mechanic, and more inclined to labor. Holt hated labor like an +Indian, and, like an Indian, relied for subsistence on the chase +exclusively. Fisher was very superstitious, and a believer in +witchcraft. Holt was scarcely a believer in anything, but was ever ready +for action. He could talk a little Chickasaw, and had several of their +chansons, which he sung. Both men had kept for years moving along on the +outer frontiers, ever ready for a new remove; and it was plain enough, +to the listener to their tales of wild adventure, that they had not been +impelled, thus far, on the ever advancing line of border life, from the +observance of any of the sterner virtues or qualities of civilized +society. There were occasions in their career, if we may venture an +opinion, when to shoot a deer, or to shoot a man, were operations that +could be performed "agreeably to circumstances." To us, however, they +were uniformly kind, frank, friendly; for, indeed, there was no possible +light in which our interests were brought in conflict. We were no +professed hunters, and our journey into the Ozark hunting-grounds was an +advantage to them, by making them better acquainted with the geography +of their position. + +They could not quit home on such a journey, however, without leaving +some meat for their families; and they both set out to-day for this +purpose. It appeared that they had, some days before, killed on a river +bottom, about twelve miles above this point in the river valley, a +buffalo, a bear, and a panther; but, not having horses with them, had +scaffolded the carcases of the two former. Notwithstanding this +precaution, the wolves had succeeded in reaching the buffalo meat, and +had partly destroyed it. The carcase of the bear was safe. They returned +in the afternoon with their trophies. They also brought down some of the +leg-bones of the buffalo, for the sake of their marrow. They are boiled +in water, to cook the marrow, and then cracked open. The quantity of +marrow is immense. It is eaten while hot, with salt. We thought it +delicious. + +We learn by conversing with the hunters that a high value is set upon +the dog, and that they are sought with great avidity. We heard of one +instance where a cow was given for a good hunting dog. + + +Dec. 25th, Christmas day. At our suggestion, the hunters went out to +shoot some turkeys for a Christmas dinner, and, after a couple of hours' +absence, returned with fourteen. In the meantime, we continued our +labors in completing the house. + +I prevailed on our hostess, to-day, to undertake a turkey-pie, with a +crust of Indian meal; and, the weather being mild, we partook of it +under the shade of a tree, on the banks of the river. + + +Dec. 26th. Having now obviated every objection, and convinced the +hunters that no dangers were to be apprehended at this late season from +the Osages, and having completed the preparations for the tour, +to-morrow is fixed on as the time of starting. + +Our hostess mentioned to me that she had a brass ring, which she had +worn for many years, and declared it to be an infallible remedy for the +cramp, with which she had been much afflicted before putting it on, but +had not had the slightest return of it since. She was now much +distressed on account of having lately broken it; and, observing the +care I bestowed on my mineralogical packages, she thought I must possess +skill in such affairs, and solicited me to mend it. It was in vain that +I represented that I had no blowpipe or other necessary apparatus for +the purpose. She was convinced I could do it, and I was unwilling to +show a disobliging disposition by refusing to make the attempt. I +therefore contrived to make a blowpipe by cutting several small pieces +of cane, and fitting one into the other until the aperture was drawn +down to the required degree of fineness. A hollow cut in a billet of +wood, and filled with live hickory coals, answered instead of a lamp; +and with a small bit of silver money, and a little borax applied to the +broken ring, with my wooden blowpipe, I soon soldered it, and afterwards +filed off the redundant silver with a small file. I must remark that the +little file and bit of borax, without which the job could not have been +accomplished, was produced from the miscellaneous housewife of my +hostess. + + +Dec. 27th. Rain, which began at night, rendered it impossible to think +of starting to-day. It was the Sabbath, and was improved as a time of +rest and reflection. I took the occasion to make some allusions, in a +gentle and unobtrusive way, to the subject, and, in connection with some +remarks which one of my entertainers had made a few days previously, on +the subject of religion generally, condense the following +observations:--He said that while living on the banks of the +Mississippi, a few years ago, he occasionally attended religious +meetings, and thought them a very good thing; but he had found one of +the preachers guilty of a gross fraud, and determined never to go again. +He thought that a man might be as good without going to church as with +it, and that it seemed to him to be a useless expenditure, &c.; very +nearly, indeed, the same kind of objections which are made by careless +and unbelieving persons everywhere, I fancy, _in_ the woods or _out_ of +them. + +The hardships of the hunter's life fall heavily on females. Mrs. Holt +tells me that she has not lived in a floored cabin for several +years--that during this period they have changed their abode many +times--and that she has lost four children, who all died under two +years. + + + + +CHAPTER IX. + + PROCEED INTO THE HUNTING-COUNTRY OF THE OSAGES--DILUVIAL HILLS + AND PLAINS--BALD HILL--SWAN CREEK--OSAGE ENCAMPMENTS--FORM + OF THE OSAGE LODGE--THE HABITS OF THE BEAVER--DISCOVER A + REMARKABLE CAVERN IN THE LIMESTONE ROCK, HAVING NATURAL VASES + OF PURE WATER--ITS GEOLOGICAL AND METALLIFEROUS CHARACTER-- + REACH THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARK RANGE, WHICH IS FOUND TO + DISPLAY A BROAD REGION OF FERTILE SOIL, OVERLYING A MINERAL + DEPOSIT. + + +My stay, which I regarded in the light of a pilgrimage, at the hunters' +cabins, was now drawing to a close. I had originally reached their camps +after a fatiguing and devious march through some of the most sterile and +rough passages of the Ozarks, guided only by a pocket compass, and had +thrown myself on their friendship and hospitality to further my +progress. Without their friendly guidance, it was felt that no higher +point in this elevation could be reached. Every objection raised by them +had now been surmounted. I had waited their preliminary journey for corn +for their families, and my companion and myself had made ourselves +useful by helping, in the mean time, to complete their cabins and +improvements. While thus engaged, I had become tolerably familiar with +their character, physical and moral, and may add something more +respecting them. Holt, as I have before indicated, was a pure hunter, +expert with the rifle, and capable of the periodical exertion and +activity which hunting requires, but prone to take his ease when there +was meat in the cabin, and averse to all work beside. He was of an easy, +good-natured temper, and would submit to a great deal of inconvenience +and want, before he would rouse himself. But when out in the woods, or +on the prairies, he was quite at home. He knew the habits and range of +animals, their time for being out of their coverts, the kind of food +they sought, and the places where it was likely to be found. He had a +quick eye and a sure aim, and quadruped or bird that escaped him, must +be nimble. He was about five feet eight inches in height, stout and full +faced, and was particular in his gear and dress, but in nothing so much +as the skin wrapper that secured his rifle-lock. This was always in +perfect order. + +Fisher was two or three inches taller, more slender, lank of features, +and sterner. He was a great believer in the bewitching of guns, seemed +often to want a good place to fire from, had more deliberation in what +he did, and was not so successful a sportsman. He had, too, when in the +cabin, more notions of comfort, built a larger dwelling, worked more on +it, and had some desires for cultivation. When on the prairie, he +dismounted from his horse with some deliberation; but, before he was +well on terra firma, Holt had slid off and killed his game. The shots of +both were true, and, between them, we ran no danger of wanting a meal. + +It was the twenty-eighth day of December before every objection to their +guiding us was obviated, and, although neither of them had been relieved +from the fear of Osage hostility, they mounted their horses in the +morning, and announced themselves ready to proceed. Our course now lay +toward the north-west, and the weather was still mild and favorable. We +ascended through the heavily-timbered bottom-lands of the valley for a +mile or two, and then passed by an easy route through the valley cliffs, +to the prairie uplands north of them. After getting fairly out of the +gorge we had followed, we entered on a rolling highland prairie, with +some clumps of small forest trees, and covered, as far as the eye could +reach, with coarse wild grass, and the seed-pods of autumnal flowers, +nodding in the breeze. It was a waving surface. Sometimes the elevations +assumed a conical shape. Sometimes we crossed a depression with trees. +Often the deer bounded before us, and frequently the sharp crack of the +rifle was the first intimation to me that game was near. Holt told me +that the error of the young or inexperienced hunters was in looking too +far for their game. The plan to hunt successfully was, to raise the eye +slowly from the spot just before you, for the game is often close by, +and not to set it on distant objects at first. We moved on leisurely, +with eyes and ears alert for every sight and sound. A bird, a quadruped, +a track--these were important themes. + +When night approached, we encamped near the foot of an eminence, called, +from its appearance, the Bald Hill. An incident occurred early in our +march, which gave us no little concern. A fine young horse of one of the +neighboring hunters, which had been turned out to range, followed our +track from White river valley, and, notwithstanding all the efforts of +our guides, could not be driven back. At length they fired the dry +prairie-grass behind us, the wind serving, deeming this the most +effectual way of driving him back. The expedient did not, however, prove +eventually successful; for, after a while, the animal again made his +appearance. We lost some time in these efforts. It was thought better, +at length, that I should ride him, which was accomplished by placing a +deerskin upon his back by way of saddle, with a kind of bridle, &c. The +animal was spirited, and, thus mounted, I kept up with the foremost. + +We travelled to-day about ten miles. The day was clear, but chilly, with +a north-westerly wind, which we had to face. Holt had killed a young doe +during the day, which was quickly skinned, and he took along the choice +parts of it for our evening's repast. Part of the carcase was left +behind as wolf's-meat. + + +Dec. 29th. Little change appeared in the country. For about six miles we +travelled over hill and dale, meeting nothing new, but constantly +expecting something. We then descended into the valley of Swan creek--a +clear stream of thirty yards wide, a tributary of White river. Its banks +present a rich alluvial bottom, well wooded with maple, hickory, ash, +hag-berry, elm, and sycamore. We followed up this valley about five +miles, when it commenced raining, and we were compelled to encamp. +Protection from the rain, however, was impossible. We gained some little +shelter under the broad roots of a clump of fallen trees and limbs, and +passed a most comfortless night, being wet, and without a fire. + +The next morning, (Dec. 30th,) at the earliest dawn, we were in motion. +After ascending the Swan creek valley about nine miles, through a most +fertile tract, we fell into the Osage trail, a well-beaten horse-path, +and passed successively three of their deserted camps, which had +apparently been unoccupied for a month or more. The poles and frames of +each lodge were left standing, and made a most formidable show. The +paths, hacked trees, and old stumps of firebrands, showed that they had +been deserted in the fall. The fear of this tribe now appeared to have +left the minds of our guides. These encampments were all very large, and +could probably each have accommodated several hundred persons. + +The form of the Osage lodge may be compared to a hemisphere, or an +inverted bird's-nest, with a small aperture left in the top for the +escape of smoke, and an elongated opening at the side, by way of door, +to pass and repass. It is constructed by cutting a number of flexible +green poles, sharpened at one end, and stuck firmly in the ground. The +corresponding tops are then bent over and tied, and the framework +covered with linden bark. These wigwams are arranged in circles, one +line of lodges within another. In the centre is a scaffolding for meat. +The chief's tent is conspicuously situated at the head of each +encampment. It is different from the rest, resembling an inverted half +cylinder. The whole is arranged with much order and neatness, and +evinces that they move in large parties, that the chiefs exercise a good +deal of authority. + +The Osages are a tribe who have from early times been prominent in the +south-west, between the Arkansas and Missouri. The term Osage is of +French origin; it seems to be a translation of the Algonquin term +Assengigun, or Bone Indians. Why? They call themselves Was-ba-shaw, and +have a curious allegory of their having originated from a beaver and a +snail. They are divided into two bands, the Little and Great Osages, the +latter of whom make their permanent encampments on the river Osage of +the Missouri. The Ozarks appear from early days to have been their +hunting-grounds for the valuable furred animals, and its deep glens and +gorges have served as nurseries for the bear. They are one of the great +prairie stock of tribes, who call God Wacondah. They are physically a +fine tribe of men, of good stature and courage, but have had the +reputation, among white and red men, of being thieves and plunderers. +Certainly, among the hunter population of this quarter, they are +regarded as little short of ogres and giants; and they tell most +extravagant tales of their doings. Luckily, it was so late in the season +that we were not likely to encounter many of them. + +In searching the precincts of the old camps, my guides pointed out a +place where the Indians had formerly pinioned down Teen Friend, one of +the most successful of the white trappers in this quarter, whom they had +found trapping their beaver in the Swan creek valley. I thought it was +an evidence of some restraining fear of our authorities at St. Louis, +that they had not taken the enterprising old fellow's scalp, as well as +his beaver packs. + +Life in the wilderness is dependent on contingencies, which are equally +hard to be foreseen or controlled. We are, at all events, clearly out of +the jurisdiction of a justice of the peace. And the maxim that we have +carefully conned over in childhood, "No man may put off the law of God," +is but a feeble reliance when urged against the Osages or Pawnees. + +Deeming themselves now high enough up the Swan creek valley, my guides +determined to leave it, and turned their horses' heads up a gorge that +led to the open plains. We now steered our course north-west, over an +elevated plain, or prairie, covered, as usual, with ripe grass. We +followed across this tract for about twenty miles, with no general +deviation of our course, but without finding water. In search of this, +we pushed on vigorously till night set in, when it became intensely +dark, and we were in danger of being precipitated, at every step, into +some hole, or down some precipice. Darkness, in a prairie, places the +traveller in the position of a ship at sea, without a compass; to go on, +or to stop, seems equally perilous. For some two hours we groped our +way in this manner, when one of the guides shouted that he had found a +standing pool. Meantime, it had become excessively dark. The atmosphere +was clouded over, and threatened rain. On reaching the pool, there was +no wood to be found, and we were compelled to encamp without a fire, and +laid down supperless, tired, and cold. + +My guides were hardy, rough fellows, and did not mind these omissions of +meals for a day together, and had often, as now, slept without +camp-fires at night. As the object seemed to be a trial of endurance, I +resolved not to compromit myself by appearing a whit less hardy than +they did, and uttered not a word that might even shadow forth complaint. +This was, however, a cold and cheerless spot at best, with the wide +prairie for a pillow, and black clouds, dropping rain, for a covering. + +The next morning, as soon as it was at all light, we followed down the +dry gorge in which we had lain, to Findley's Fork--a rich and +well-timbered valley, which we descended about five miles. As we rode +along through an open forest, soon after entering this valley, we +observed the traces of the work of the beaver, and stopped to view a +stately tree, of the walnut species, which had been partially gnawed off +by these animals. This tree was probably eighteen or twenty inches in +diameter, and fifty feet high. The animals had gnawed a ring around it, +but abandoned their work. It had afterwards been undermined by the +freshets of the stream, and had fallen. Was it too hard a work? If so, +it would seem that some instinct akin to reason came to their aid, in +leading them to give up their essay. + +There was now every appearance of a change of weather. It was cold, and +a wintry breeze chilled our limbs. I thought my blood was as warm as +that of my guides, however, and rode on cheerfully. At length, Holt and +Fisher, of their own motion, stopped to kindle a fire, and take +breakfast. We had still plenty of fresh venison, which we roasted, as +each liked, on spits. Thus warmed and refreshed, we continued down the +valley, evidently in a better philosophical mood; for a man always +reasons better, and looks more beneficently about him, this side of +starvation. + +I observed a small stream of pure water coming in on the north, side, +which issued through an opening in the hills; and as this ran in the +general direction we were pursuing, the guides led up it. We were soon +enclosed in a lateral valley, with high corresponding hills, as if, in +remote ages, they had been united. Very soon it became evident that this +defile was closed across and in front of us. As we came near this +barrier, it was found that it blocked up the whole valley, with the +exception of the mouth of a gigantic cave. The great width and height of +this cave, and its precipitous face, gave it very much the appearance of +some ruinous arch, out of proportion. It stretched from hill to hill. +The limpid brook we had been following, ran from its mouth. On entering +it, the first feeling was that of being in "a large place." There was no +measure for the eye to compute height or width. We seemed suddenly to be +beholding some secret of the great works of nature, which had been hid +from the foundation of the world. The impulse, on these occasions, is to +shout. I called it Winoca.[9] On advancing, we beheld an immense natural +vase, filled with pure water. This vase was formed from concretions of +carbonate of lime, of the nature of stalagmite, or, rather, stalactite. +It was greyish-white and translucent, filling the entire breadth of the +cave. But, what was still more imposing, another vase, of similar +construction, was formed on the next ascending plateau of the floor of +the cave. The water flowed over the lips of this vase into the one +below. The calcareous deposit seems to have commenced at the surface of +the water, which, continually flowing over the rims of each vase, +increases the deposit. + +The height of the lower vase is about five feet, which is inferable by +our standing by it, and looking over the rim into the limpid basin. The +rim is about two and a half inches thick. Etruscan artists could not +have formed a more singular set of capacious vases. + +The stream of water that supplies these curious tanks, rushes with +velocity from the upper part of the cavern. The bottom of the cave is +strewed with small and round calcareous concretions, about the size of +ounce balls, of the same nature with the vases. They are in the +condition of stalagmites. These concretions are opaque, and appear to +have been formed from the impregnated waters percolating from the roof +of the cavern. There are evidences of nitric salts in small crevices. +Geologically, the cavern is in the horizontal limestone, which is +evidently metalliferous. It is the same calcareous formation which +characterizes the whole Ozark range. Ores of lead (the sulphurets) were +found in the stratum in the bed of a stream, at no great distance north +of this cave; and its exploration for its mineral wealth is believed to +be an object of practical importance. + +I had now followed the geological formation of the country far +south-westwardly. The relative position of the calcareous, lead-bearing +stratum, had everywhere been the same, when not disturbed or displaced. +Wide areas on the sources of the Maramec, Gasconade, and Osage, and also +of the Currents, Spring river, and Eleven-points and Strawberry, were +found covered by heavy drift, which concealed the rock; but wherever +valleys had been cut through the formation by the stream, and the strata +laid bare, they disclosed the same horizontality of deposit, and the +same relative position of limestone and sandstone rock. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[9] From the Osage word for an underground spirit. + + + + +CHAPTER X. + + DEPART FROM THE CAVE--CHARACTER OF THE HUNTERS WHO GUIDED THE + AUTHOR--INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE--A BEAUTIFUL AND FERTILE + COUNTRY, ABOUNDING IN GAME--REACH THE EXTREME NORTH-WESTERN + SOURCE OF WHITE RIVER--DISCOVERIES OF LEAD-ORE IN A PART OF + ITS BED--ENCAMP AND INVESTIGATE ITS MINERALOGY--CHARACTER, + VALUE, AND HISTORY OF THE COUNTRY--PROBABILITY OF ITS + HAVING BEEN TRAVERSED BY DE SOTO IN 1541. + + +It was the last day of the year 1818, when we reached the cave of +Winoca, as described in the preceding chapter, on the Ozark summit. An +inspection of the country had shown the fact that the mineral +developments of its underlying rocks were of a valuable character, while +the surface assumed the most pleasing aspect, and the soil, wherever +examined, appeared to be of the very richest quality. The bold, rough +hunters, who accompanied me, thought of the country only as an +attractive game country, which it was a great pity, they said, that the +Indians alone should occupy; and they had very little curiosity about +anything that did not minister to their immediate wants. They had lived +for so long a time by the rifle, that they had a philosophy of the +rifle. It was the ready arbiter between themselves, and the animal +creation, and the Indians, and even other hunters. Neither the striking +agricultural or mineral resources of the country, arrested much +attention on their part. And as soon as I was ready to relinquish my +examinations at the cave and proceed, they were ready to resume their +horses and lead forward. Unfortunately, it was now severely cold, and +everything in the heavens prognosticated its increasing severity. + +On leaving the Valley of the Cave, and ascending the hills that +environed it, we passed over a gently sloping surface of hill and vale, +partly covered with forest trees, and partly in prairies. I have seldom +seen a more beautiful prospect. The various species of oaks and +hickories had strewed the woods with their fruits, on which the bear and +wild turkey revelled, while the red deer was scarcely ever out of sight. +Long before the hour of encampment had arrived, the hunters had secured +the means of our making a sumptuous evening meal on wild viands; and +when, at an early hour, we pitched our camp on the borders of a small +brook, Holt, who was ever ready with the rifle, added a fat brant from +this brook to our stores. We had not travelled more than twelve miles, +but we had a sharp wind to face, the day being severe; and nothing was +so agreeable, when we halted, as the fire, around which we enjoyed +ourselves, as we each displayed our skill in forest cookery. There was +cutting, and carving, and roasting, in the true prairie style. We then +prepared our couches and night-fires, and slept. At the earliest peep of +light, we were again in motion. + +The 1st of January, 1819, opened with a degree of cold unusual in these +regions. Their elevation is, indeed, considerable; but the wind swept +with a cutting force across the open prairies. We were now on the +principal north-western source of White river, the channel of which we +forded in the distance of two miles. The western banks presented a naked +prairie, covered with dry grass and autumnal weeds, with here and there +a tree. We pushed on towards the north-east. The prairie-hen, +notwithstanding the cold, rose up in flocks before us, as we intruded +upon their low-couched positions in the grass. Of these, Holt, whose +hunting propensities no cold could restrain, obtained a specimen; he +also fired at and killed a wild goose from the channel of the river. On +passing about four miles up the western banks of the stream, we observed +a lead of lead-ore, glittering through the water in the bed of the +river, and determined to encamp at this spot, for the purpose of +investigating the mineral appearances. The weather was piercingly cold. +We found some old Indian camps near at hand, and procured from them +pieces of bark to sheath a few poles and stakes, hastily put up, to form +a shelter from the wind. A fire was soon kindled, and, while we cooked +and partook of a forest breakfast, we recounted the incidents of the +morning, not omitting the untoward state of the weather. When the labor +of building the shanty was completed, I hastened to explore the +geological indications of the vicinity. + +The ore which had attracted our notice in the bed of the stream, existed +in lumps, which presented bright surfaces where the force of the current +had impelled its loose stony materials over them. It was a pure +sulphuret of lead, breaking in cubical lines. I also observed some +pieces of hornblende. It was not easy to determine the original width of +the bed of ore. Its course is across the stream, into the banks of red +marly clay on which we had encamped. Its geological position is in every +respect similar to the metalliferous deposits at Potosi, except that +there were no spars, calcareous or barytic, in sight. I gathered, in a +few minutes, a sufficient number of specimens of the ore for +examination, and employed myself in erecting, on the banks of the river, +a small furnace, of the kind called "log-furnace" in Missouri, to test +its fusibility. In the mean time, my New England companion took a survey +of the surrounding country, which he pronounced one of the most fertile, +and admirably adapted to every purpose of agriculture. Much of the land +consists of prairie, into which the plough can be immediately put. The +forests and groves, which are interspersed with a park-like beauty +through these prairies, consist of various species of oaks, maple, white +and black walnut, elm, mulberry, hackberry, and sycamore. + +Holt and Fisher scanned the country for game, and returned to camp with +six turkeys and a wolf. Their fear of the Osages had been only +apparently subdued. They had been constantly on the look-out for signs +of Indian enemies, and had their minds always filled with notions of +hovering Osages and Pawnees. The day was wintry, and the weather +variable. It commenced snowing at daylight, and continued till about +eight o'clock, A. M. It then became clear, and remained so, with +occasional flickerings, until two o'clock, when a fixed snowstorm sat +in, and drove me from my little unfinished furnace, bringing in the +hunters also from the prairies, and confining us strictly to our camp. +This storm continued, without mitigation, nearly all night. + + +Jan. 3d. The snow ceased before sunrise, leaving the country wrapped in +a white mantle. The morning was cold; the river began to freeze about +nine o'clock, and continued till it was closed. The weather afforded an +opportunity for continuing the explorations and examinations commenced +yesterday. I found that the red clay afforded a good material for laying +the stones of my lead-furnace, and continued working at it for a part of +the day. The hunters came in with the carcases of two deer, and the skin +of a black wolf. Except in its color, I could not distinguish any +permanent characteristics in the latter differing from the large grey +wolf, or coyote. Its claws, snout, and ears, were the same--its tail, +perhaps, a little more bushy. The size of this animal, judging from the +skin, must have been double that of the little prairie-wolf, or +_myeengun_ of the Indians of the North. + +I found the bed of the stream, where it permitted examination, to be +non-crystalline limestone, in horizontal beds, corresponding to the +formation observed in the cave of Winoca. Its mineral constituents were +much the same. The country is one that must be valuable hereafter for +its fertility and resources. The prairies which extend west of the river +are the most extensive, rich, and beautiful, of any which I have yet +seen west of the Mississippi. They are covered with a most vigorous +growth of grass. The deer and elk abound in this quarter, and the +buffalo is yet occasionally seen. The soil in the river valley is a rich +black alluvion. The trees are often of an immense height, denoting +strength of soil. It will probably be found adapted to corn, flax, hemp, +wheat, oats, and potatoes; while its mining resources must come in as +one of the elements of its future prosperity. + +I planted some peach-stones in a fertile spot near our camp, where the +growth of the sumac denoted unusual fertility. And it is worthy of +remark that even Holt, who had the antipathy of an Indian to +agriculture, actually cut some bushes in a certain spot, near a spring, +and piled them into a heap, by way of securing a pre-emption right to +the soil. + +The region of the Ozark range of mountain development is one of singular +features, and no small attractions. It exhibits a vast and elevated +tract of horizontal and sedimentary strata, extending for hundreds of +miles north and south. This range is broken up into high cliffs, often +wonderful to behold, which form the enclosing walls of river valleys. +The Arkansas itself forces its way through, about the centre of the +range. The Washita marks its southern boundary. The St. Francis and the +Maramec, at the mouth of the former of which De Soto landed, constitute +its northern limits. The junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi +may be said to be its extreme northern development. The Missouri, from +the influx of the Osage, is pushed northward by the Ozark range. It +rests, on the south, upon the primitive granites, slates, and quartz +rock, of Washita. The celebrated Hot Springs issue from it. The +long-noted mines of Missouri, which once set opinion in France in a +blaze, extend from its north-eastern flanks. The primitive sienites and +hornblende rock of the sources of the St. Francis and Grand rivers, +support it. The Unica or White river, the Strawberry, Spring river, +Currents and Black rivers, descend from it, and join the Mississippi. +The Great and Little Osage, and the Gasconade, flow into the Missouri. +The great plains, and sand-desert, which stretches at the eastern foot +of the Rocky mountains, lie west of it. It is not less than two hundred +miles in breadth. No part of the central regions of the Mississippi +valley exhibits such a variety in its geological constituents, or such a +striking mineralogical development. Its bodies of the ore of iron called +iron-glance, are unparalleled. These are particularly developed in the +locality called Iron Mountain, or the sources of the St. Francis. Its +ores of lead, zinc, antimony, and manganese, are remarkable. Its +limestones abound in caves yielding nitre. Salt and gypsum are found in +the plains on its western borders. Its large blocks of quartz rock, +which are found north of the Arkansas river, particularly scattered over +the formations crossing the Little Red, Buffalo, and White rivers, +about the Buffalo shoals, furnish indications of the diluvial gold +deposit, which would justify future examination. + +Through these alpine ranges De Soto roved, with his chivalrous and +untiring army, making an outward and inward expedition into regions +which must have presented unwonted hardships and discouragements to the +march of troops. To add to these natural obstacles, he found himself +opposed by fierce savage tribes, who rushed upon him from every glen and +defile, and met him in the open grounds with the most savage energy. His +own health finally sank under these fatigues; and it is certain that, +after his death, his successor in the command, Moscoso, once more +marched entirely through the southern Ozarks, and reached the buffalo +plains beyond them. Such energy and feats of daring had never before +been displayed in North America; and the wonder is at its highest, after +beholding the wild and rough mountains, cliffs, glens, and torrents, +over which the actual marches must have laid. + +Some of the names of the Indian tribes encountered by him, furnish +conclusive evidence that the principal tribes of the country, although +they have changed their particular locations since the year 1542, still +occupy the region. Thus, the Kapahas, who then lived on the Mississippi, +above the St. Francis, are identical with the Quappas, the Cayas with +the Kanzas, and the Quipana with the Pawnees. + + + + +CHAPTER XI. + + SEVERE WINTER WEATHER ON THE SUMMIT OF THE OZARKS--FALSE + ALARM OF INDIANS--DANGER OF MY FURNACE, ETC., BEING + HEREAFTER TAKEN FOR ANTIQUITIES--PROCEED SOUTH--ANIMAL + TRACKS IN THE SNOW--WINOCA OR SPIRIT VALLEY--HONEY AND THE + HONEY-BEE--BUFFALO-BULL CREEK--ROBE OF SNOW--MEHAUSCA + VALLEY--SUPERSTITIOUS EXPERIMENT OF THE HUNTERS--ARRIVE AT + BEAVER CREEK. + + +The indications of severe weather, noticed during the last day of +December, and the beginning of January, were not deceptive; every day +served to realize them. We had no thermometer; but our feelings denoted +an intense degree of cold. The winds were fierce and sharp, and snow +fell during a part of each day and night that we remained on these +elevations. We wrapped our garments closely about us at night, in front +of large fires, and ran alternately the risk of being frozen and burnt. +One night my overcoat was in a blaze from lying too near the fire. This +severity served to increase the labor of our examinations; but it did +not, that I am aware, prevent anything essential. + +On the fourth day of my sojourn here, a snowstorm began, a little before +one o'clock in the morning; it ceased, or, as the local phrase is, "held +up," at daybreak. The ground was now covered, to a depth of from two to +three inches, with a white mantle. Such severity had never been known by +the hunters. The winds whistled over the bleak prairies with a rigor +which would have been remarkable in high northern latitudes. The river +froze entirely over. The sun, however, shone out clearly as the day +advanced, and enabled me to complete my examinations, as fully as it +was practicable to do, under the existing state of the weather. + +It happened, on this day, that my companion had walked a mile or two +west, over the smooth prairie, to get a better view of the conformation +of the land, returning to camp before the hunters, who had also gone in +the same general direction. On their coming back, one of them, whose +head was always full of hostile Osages, fell on his returning track in +the snow, and carefully traced it to our camp. He came in breathless, +and declared that the Osages were upon us, and that not a moment was to +be lost in breaking up our camp, and flying to a place of security. When +informed of the origin of the tracks, he still seemed incredulous, and +could not be pacified without some difficulty. We then prepared, by +collecting fuel, and increasing our bark defences against the wind and +snow, to pass another night at the camp. + +I had now followed the Ozarks as far as it seemed practicable, and +reached their western summit, notwithstanding every discouragement +thrown in my way by the reports of the hunters, from the first moment of +my striking the White river; having visited the source of nearly every +river which flows from it, both into the Missouri and the Mississippi. I +had fully satisfied myself of its physical character and resources, and +now determined to return to the camps of my guides at Beaver creek, and +continue the exploration south. + +It was the 5th of January, 1819, when we prepared our last meal at that +camp, and I carefully put up my packages in such portable shape as might +be necessary. Some time was spent in looking up the horses, which had +been turned into a neighboring canebrake. The interval was employed in +cutting our names, with the date of our visit, on a contiguous oak, +which had been previously blazed for the purpose. These evidences of our +visit were left, with the pit dug in search of ore, and the small +smelting-furnace, which, it is hoped, no zealous antiquarian will +hereafter mistake for monuments of an elder period of civilization in +the Mississippi valley. When this was accomplished, and the horses +brought up, we set out with alacrity. The snow still formed a thin +covering on the ground, and, being a little softened by the sun, the +whole surface of the country exhibited a singular map of the tracks of +quadrupeds and birds. In these, deer, elk, bears, wolves, and turkeys, +were prominent--the first and last species, conspicuously so. In some +places, the dry spots on the leaves showed where the deer had lain +during the storm. These resting-spots were uniformly on declivities, +which sheltered the animal from the force of the wind. Frequently we +crossed wolf-trails in the snow, and, in one or two instances, observed +places where they had played or fought with each other, like a pack of +dogs--the snow being tramped down in a circle of great extent. We also +passed tracts of many acres, where the turkeys had scratched up the +snow, in search of acorns. We frequently saw the deer fly before us, in +droves of twenty or thirty. They will bound twenty feet at a leap, as +measured, on a gentle declivity. This animal is impelled by a fatal +curiosity to stop and turn round to look at the cause of its +disturbance, after running a distance. It is at this moment that the +hunter generally fires. + +About noon, we reached and crossed Findley's Fork, or the Winoca +valley--the locality of the cave. Two miles south of it, in ascending an +elevation, our ears were saluted by a murmuring sound in the air, which +the hunters declared to be single bees, flying in a line. I observed one +of them directing its flight to the top of a large oak, which was thus +indicated as the repository of their honey. My companion and myself +proceeded to chop it down, while the hunters stood by. It was of the +white-oak species, and was judged to be two feet and a half across. When +it fell, a hollow limb was fractured, disclosing a large deposit of most +beautiful white honeycombs. We ate without stint, sometimes dipping +cooked pieces of venison (we had no bread) in the fluid part. The +remainder was then wrapped up in a freshly flayed deerskin, and firmly +tied, to be carried to the hunters' cabins at Beaver creek on one of the +horses. + +We now resumed our route. As evening approached, we entered the head of +a valley formed out of the plain, toward our right. It turned out to be +a stream known to them, in their buffalo hunts, as Bull creek. Here we +encamped, having travelled about twenty miles. The weather continued +moderately cold during the day, the sun not having attained sufficient +power to melt the snow. A single deer was the trophy of this day's hunt. + +Morning found us, as we arose from our couches, in a small, brushy, and +tangled valley, through which it was not easy to make our way. The +weather was raw, cold, and lowering, and the hunters did not seem +inclined to make an early start. It was determined to replenish our +fire, and breakfast, first. It was a rough region, and cost some +exertion and fatigue to get out of its tangled defiles, and ascend the +plains south of it. These impediments consumed so much time, that we +made but slow progress. The atmosphere was so obscure, that it was +difficult to determine the proper course; and it was evident that the +guides did not know exactly where they were. At length they entered one +of the lateral valleys of Swan creek, the Mehausca of the Osages. In +this, after following it down some distance, we encamped. The atmosphere +was clouded up, and betokened falling weather. + +The next morning, (Jan. 7th), when I awoke, I felt an extra pressure of +something on my blanket, which had the effect to keep off the wind, and +produce warmth; and on opening its folds, I threw off a stratum of an +inch or two of snow. We had been fatigued by the day's march, and slept +soundly. + +Some eight miles' travel brought us to the junction of this little +tributary with the Mehausca, where our guides, by recognizing known +objects, reassured themselves of their true position. It was, however, +still hazy and obscure, and doubts soon again arose in their minds as to +the proper course. After travelling some miles in this perplexity, they +were at length relieved by observing a known landmark in the peak of +Bald hill. This mark was, however, soon lost sight of, and, the +atmosphere still continuing overclouded, dark, and hazy, they speedily +became again bewildered. I was surprised at this; it denoted a want of +precision of observation, which an Indian certainly could not have been +charged with. He is able, in the worst weather, to distinguish the +_north_ from the _south_ face of a mature and weathered tree--a species +of knowledge, of the utmost consequence to him in his forest wanderings. + +An experiment, of letting a certain horse take his course homeward, by +throwing the reins upon his neck, was adopted by our guides; but after +trying it for some time, it was found necessary to give it up. It was +clear that the animal was going directly from home; and Fisher, who +believed in bewitched guns, was obliged to yield the point. Not long +after resuming the reins, Holt announced, in the dense atmosphere which +enveloped us, that we were ascending the valley hills that border the +main channel of White river. As soon as this was verified, and we had +reached the highest point, the guides both fired their rifles, to +advertise their families, on the bottom-lands below, of their approach; +and we were soon welcomed, at the hunters' cabins at the mouth of Beaver +creek, "by dogs, women, and children, all greasy and glad." + +During this trip, I had listened to frequent recitals of the details of +hunting the bear, beaver, deer, and other animals, the quality of dogs, +the secret of baits, &c.--a species of forest lectures, the details of +which, at the moment, were new to me, and had the charm of novelty, and +the merit of information; but which it is unimportant, at this length of +time, to repeat.[10] + +FOOTNOTE: + +[10] Vide Journal of a Tour into the Interior of Missouri and Arkansas. +London, 1821. + + + + +CHAPTER XII. + + DESCEND WHITE RIVER IN A CANOE--ITS PURE WATER, CHARACTER, + AND SCENERY--PLACES OF STOPPING--BEAR CREEK--SUGAR-LOAF + PRAIRIE--BIG CREEK--A RIVER PEDLAR--POT SHOALS--MOUTH OF + LITTLE NORTH FORK--DESCEND FORMIDABLE RAPIDS, CALLED THE + BULL SHOALS--STRANDED ON ROCKS--A PATRIARCH PIONEER-- + MINERALOGY--ANTIQUE POTTERY AND BONES--SOME TRACE OF DE + SOTO--A TRIP BY LAND--REACH THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH + FORK. + + +I determined to descend the river from the hunters' cabins at Beaver +creek, being the highest location to which a pioneer hunting population +had pushed, and with this view purchased a large and new canoe, of about +twenty feet in length, from the enterprising hunters. Putting into this +such articles from our former packs as were deemed necessary, and some +provisions, I took the bow, with a long and smooth pole to guide it in +rapids and shoals, and gave the stern to my companion, with a +steering-paddle. It was now the 9th of January. Bidding adieu to our +rough, but kind and friendly guides, we pushed into the stream, and +found ourselves floating, with little exertion, at the rate of from +three to four miles per hour. The very change from traversing weary +plains and prairies, and ascending steep cliffs, was exhilarating and +delightful. + +White river is one of the most beautiful and enchanting streams, and by +far the most transparent, which discharge their waters into the +Mississippi. To a width and depth which entitle it to be classed as a +river of the third magnitude in Western America, it unites a current +which possesses the purity of crystal, with a smooth and gentle flow, +and the most imposing, diversified, and delightful scenery. Objects can +be clearly seen in it, through the water, at the greatest depths. Every +pebble, rock, fish, or shell, even the minutest body which occupies the +bottom of the stream, is seen with the most perfect distinctness; and +the canoe, when looking under it, seemed, from the remarkable +transparency of the water, to be suspended in air. The Indians, +observing this peculiarity, called it Unica, which is the transitive +form of _white_. The French of Louisiana merely translated this term to +_la riviere au Blanc_. It is, in fact, composed of tributaries which +gush up in large crystal springs out of the Ozark range of mountains, +and it does not receive a discoloured tributary in all its upper course. +These gigantic springs, which are themselves a curiosity, originate in +the calcareous or sandstone strata of that remarkable chain, and are +overlaid by a heavy oceanic deposit of limestone, quartz, hornstone, and +chert pebbles, which serve as a filtering-bed to the upspringing waters. +Sometimes these pebbles are found to be jasper, of a beautiful quality. + +The scenery of its shores is also peculiar. Most frequently the +limestone, which has been subjected to the destructive power of the +elements, is worn into pinnacles of curious spiral shapes. Where the +river washes the base of these formations, a high and precipitous wall +of rock casts its shadow over the water. On the shores opposite to such +precipices, there is invariably a rich diluvial plain, covered by a +vigorous forest of trees, clothed in all the graceful luxuriance of a +summer foliage. + +If the shores be examined to any distance inland, the calcareous rock is +found to exhibit frequent caverns, where the percolation of the waters +has produced stalactites of beautiful forms, or the concretions are +spread upon the floors of these caves in curious masses. + +Often, upon the shores, we observed the graceful doe. At early hours in +the morning, the wild turkeys appeared in large flocks, with their +plumage glistening in the light. The duck, goose, and brant, often rose +up before us, and lighted in the stream again below us; and we thus +drove them, without intending it, for miles. Sometimes, perched on some +high pinnacle or towering tree, the eagle, hawk, or heron, surveyed our +descent, as if it were an intrusion upon their long undisturbed domain. + +A few miles below our point of embarkation, we passed, on the left +shore, a precipitous wall of calcareous rock, on the summit of which I +observed the location of the cavern, into the mouth of which I descended +some twenty or thirty feet, on my outward journey; and it now seemed +probable that the ramifications which I saw by the dim light admitted, +were of an extensive character. + +As the shades of night overtook us, a hunter's cabin was descried on the +left shore, where a landing was made. It proved to be occupied by a +person of the name of Yochem, who readily gave us permission to remain +for the night. He told us we had descended thirty miles. He regaled us +hospitably with wild viands, and, among other meats, the beaver's +tail--a dish for epicures. + +Resuming the descent at an early hour, a couple of miles brought us to +the inlet of Bear creek--a stream coming in on the right side, which is +described as long, narrow, and crooked. Nothing denoted that man had +ever made his residence along this part of the stream. We floated on +charmingly. At every turn, some novel combination of scenery presented +itself. As evening drew near, a hunter's cabin appeared on our right, +and, a couple of miles further, another on our left, near one of those +natural monuments of denudation common to the limestone of this river, +which is called the Sugar-loaf. We stopped for the night at this +habitation, and found it to be occupied by a Mr. Coker. The old man +received us with the usual frank and friendly air and manner of a +hunter. More than fifty years must have marked his frontier pilgrimage +on its constantly shifting boundary. He stood some six feet three in +height, was erect and thin, and looked like one of the patriarchs of the +woods, who, cherishing his personal independence and his rifle, had ever +relied upon his own arm for a support, and distrusted nothing on earth +half so much as Indians. In his view, the Osages were the perfection of +robbers; and he congratulated us on getting out of their country with +our scalps safely on our heads, and our "plunder" (a common word here +for baggage) untouched. It appeared from his estimates that we had +descended the river twenty-five miles. + +Rain fell copiously during the night; but it ceased before daylight +(11th), by the earliest gleams of which we were again in motion, +descending the pellucid river. At the computed distance of sixteen +miles, we passed the mouth of Big river, a considerable stream on the +left banks, where I halted a few moments to see a new location which had +just been commenced. A small clearing had been made in the dense +canebrake, and a log house commenced. Shortly below this spot, we +encountered a river pedlar, ascending the stream with his commodities in +a canoe. On conversing with him, I found his knowledge of affairs very +local and partial. Of the outer world, and of its news, he knew nothing. + +At every stage of our progress, the river was increasing in its volume; +and, soon after this occurrence, we observed its velocity accelerated, +and almost imperceptibly found ourselves gliding rapidly over the Pot +Shoals. This rapid appeared less formidable than had been anticipated. I +rose up to observe the draught of the current, and, by a few strokes of +the pole, kept the canoe in the force of the stream. About seven miles +below these shoals, and just as evening closed in, a house appeared on +the left shore. It proved to be M'Garey's, at whose domicile we had +originally struck on crossing the wilderness from Potosi. He was glad to +hail our return from a region, against the Indian occupants of which, he +had decidedly warned us on our outward trip, but from whom we had +fortunately received no injury. He informed us that we had this day +descended the river forty miles, that being the received distance to +Sugar-loaf Prairie. + +We were indeed cordially received as old acquaintances, and +congratulated on our perseverance in visiting a region where Indian +hostility was so much to be dreaded. On learning that the Osages had +retired west, and that the country abounded in game, one of the sons of +our host prepared to push into that region. M'Garey told us that he had +delivered "Butcher," agreeably to our order, to Holt; but the latter, on +travelling a day's journey toward Beaver creek, had found him too feeble +to proceed, and, after taking off his shoes, had abandoned him to the +wolves. Sad emblem of the fate of persons who have served great men, +till they have reached some pinnacle where the service is forgotten, +because no longer necessary! + +Nearly opposite, but a little below this cabin, we passed, on the 12th, +the mouth of the Little North Fork; a stream originating in a broken +region on the left bank, and having some alluvions at its mouth. +Evidences of habitation became more frequent below the Little North +Fork, which caused me to cease noting their succession in my journal. + +Nothing of special interest occurred to mark the day's progress, till we +reached, at an advanced hour in the afternoon, the Bull shoals. At this +formidable rapid, the river probably sinks its level fifteen or twenty +feet in the space of half a mile. Masses of limestone rock stand up in +the bed of the river, and create several channels. Between these the +river foams and roars. When I arose in the canoe to take a view of the +rapid into which we were about to plunge, the bed of the stream appeared +to be a perfect sheet of foam, whirling and rushing with great force and +tumult. As I knew not the proper channel, and it was too late to +withdraw, the only step left was to keep the canoe headed, and down we +went most rapidly. Very soon the canoe leaped on a round rock, driving +on it with great force, and veered about crosswise. In an instant I +jumped into the water at the bows, while my companion did the same at +the stern, and, by main force, we lifted it over the ledge, got in +quickly, and again headed it properly. We were, emphatically, in the +midst of roaring rapids; their very noise was deafening. The canoe had +probably got down six hundred yards, when a similar difficulty occurred, +at the head of a second shute or bench of rocks, reaching across the +river. In an instant, it again struck. It was obviated by getting into +the water, in the same way as on the first occasion; only, however, to +put our strength and skill to the test a third time, after which we shot +down to the foot of the rapids safely. We had managed neither to ship +water, nor to lose a piece of baggage. We were, however, thoroughly +wetted, but kept our position in the canoe for five miles below the +rapid, bringing us to the head of Friend's settlement. We landed, at a +rather early hour in the evening, at a log building on the left shore, +where we were hospitably received by Teen Friend, a man of mature age +and stately air, the patriarch of the settlement. It was of him that we +had heard stories of Osage captivity and cruelty, having visited one of +the very valleys where he was kept in "durance vile." + +The antiquities and mineral appearances in that vicinity were +represented as worthy of examination; in consequence of which, I devoted +a part of the next day (13th) to these objects. The neighboring hills +consist of stratified limestone. The surface of the soil exhibits some +fragments of hornstone and radiated quartz, with indications of +iron-ore. At the shoals, traces of galena and calcareous spar occur. + +Mr. Friend, being familiar from personal observation with the geography +and resources of the country at large, states that rock-salt is found +between the south fork of White river and the Arkansas, where the +Pawnees and Osages make use of it. It is presumed that this salt +consists of crystalline masses from the evaporation of saline water. He +represents the lead-ores on its north-western source, which we had +partially explored, as very extensive. + +If, as is probable, De Soto ranged over these regions in his extensive +marches between the St. Francis and Arkansas, his exploratory parties +may have reached the locality of crystalline salt referred to, and he +would have found the buffalo in several positions east of that place. + +The antiquarian objects to which my attention was called, afforded the +greatest degree of interest. They consisted of pieces of earthenware, +some antique fragments of bone, and a metallic alloy, resting in a +substance resembling ashes, and also arrow-heads. The metallic alloy, of +which Mr. F. gave me a specimen, resembles a combination of lead and +tin. But what adds to the interest attending the discovery of these +articles, is the fact, that they lie, apparently, below the diluvial +deposits, bearing a heavy forest, and at the geological line of +intersection with the consolidated rocks. + +From the apparent vestiges in this quarter, I am of opinion that De +Soto's "Tanico" must be located in this vicinity, and that he crossed +the White river near this place. A march west of this point, over a +hilly country, would bring him into the fertile valley of the Little Red +river, or Buffalo creek--his probable Tula, where his people first +tasted the flesh of this animal, and where he recruited his army for a +new effort. + +These inquiries occupied the morning. It was late before we embarked, +and, at some four miles below, we landed on the right shore, at a Mr. +Zadock Lee's, being the first New Englander whom we had met in this +region. With him we took dinner. He appeared pleased to see us, and +conducted me to see some antique, white, lime-like masses, in the earth, +near the bank of the river, which had the appearance of decayed bones. +Rumor speaks of some other antiquities in this quarter of the country, +in the shape of bricks, concealed by the undisturbed soil; but I saw +nothing of this kind. While here, Mr. Lee's son returned from the forest +with the flesh of the bear and buffalo, the fruits of his own prowess in +the chase, and amused us with an account of his recent exhibition of +skill in these departments. We embarked and descended the river six +miles, to a Mr. Jacob Yochem's, who received us with hospitality, and +added no little, by his conversation, to our local lore. + +It was determined, the next morning, (14th,) to loan our canoe, which +was a capacious, new, and clean vessel, made from white-ash, to our +host, to enable him to transport his hunter products to a market at the +mouth of the Great North Fork, leaving our baggage to be brought that +way. The distance by water is thirty-five miles; by land, probably not +more than eighteen or twenty. By this step, we avoided the dangers of +navigating two formidable rapids, called the Crooked Creek and Buffalo +Shoals; the former situated fifteen, and the latter twenty miles below +Yochem's. + +We left our host's at a seasonable hour in the morning, taking a good +horse-path; and we walked diligently till near dusk, before reaching our +destination. We then had the whole volume of White river between us and +our purposed place of lodgment, which was at the residence of a man +named Matney. It was the only house within a considerable distance at +which shelter for the night could be obtained; and we did not hesitate +long between the two alternatives presented to us--either of lying out +in the woods all night, or of fording the river, with the depth of which +we were not acquainted. We chose the latter, and accordingly prepared +for the attempt. At the shallowest part we could find, it was about four +feet deep in the channel; but we struggled through, and reached the +house just at nightfall, wet and chilly. We were hospitably received, +and speedily made ourselves comfortable. We had been told that the +distance was fifteen miles; but to us, who had diligently footed it, it +seemed more than twenty. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + + DETENTION AT THE MOUTH OF THE GREAT NORTH FORK--NATURAL + HISTORY OF THE VICINITY--GREAT BLOCKS OF QUARTZ--IMPOSING + PRECIPICES OF THE CALICO ROCK--A CHARACTERISTIC OF AMERICAN + SCENERY--CHEROKEE OCCUPANCY OF THE COUNTRY BETWEEN THE + WHITE AND ARKANSAS RIVERS--ITS EFFECTS ON THE PIONEERS-- + QUESTION OF THE FATE OF THE INDIAN RACES--IRON-ORE--DESCENT + TO THE ARKANSAS FERRIES--LEAVE THE RIVER AT THIS POINT-- + REMARKS ON ITS CHARACTER AND PRODUCTIONS. + + +The canoe had not yet arrived, nor was there any tidings of it the next +morning; so that there was no alternative, in our present situation, but +to wait patiently. I determined to improve the delay by exploring the +neighborhood. It is a geographical point of some importance, being the +head of the navigation of White river for all large craft ascending from +the Mississippi. As yet, nothing but keel-boats have ascended. Between +the point of our embarkation at Beaver creek and this spot, the river +has a fall of about sixty feet, at four rapids, which do not probably +extend over a mile or two in the aggregate. The stream, during the rest +of the way, has a fine, lively current, seldom of great velocity, and +never stagnates. The Great North Fork, the scene of our former +ramblings, enters a short distance below the foot of the Buffalo Shoals, +rendering the draught of water practicable, it is believed, for +steamboats at all seasons. + +I found the pebble-stones and boulders on the margin and bed of the +river, which I leisurely examined, to afford a true representation of +the formations which had been observed in traversing the elevated and +broken surface of the Ozarks. They consist of the various limestones +and sandstones of the region, with a partial mixture of quartz rock, red +sienite, hornstone, argillaceous rock, and the peculiar, egg-shaped, +coarse yellow jasper, which appears to have been imbedded in some of its +strata. On ascending the cliffs west of the valley, they were observed +to consist of the characteristic limestone of the region, in horizontal +layers, the upper strata containing impressions of shells. Very large +angular masses of quartz rock lie near the bases of these cliffs. Some +of the angles of these masses would probably measure fourteen feet. +Their position here appears to be quite anomalous, as, from the absence +of attrition, they are clearly not of the erratic block group. They +appear to indicate a primitive formation near. + +The half hunter, half farmer, to whom we had loaned our canoe, came with +a number of his companions in the evening, and entered on a scene of +merriment, to which, as the cabin had but one room, we were compelled to +be unwilling spectators during the livelong night, though, from its +character, not participating at all therein. As soon as there was light +sufficient to discern objects (16th), we embarked, rejoiced to get clear +of this extraordinary nocturnal scene. About half a mile below, we +passed the mouth of the Great North Fork, and, some five or six miles +further, entered and descended a swift channel, called the Crooked +rapids, where there probably has been some slight geological disturbance +in the bed of the river, observable in very low stages of water. + +At the distance of ten miles more, a sudden turn of the river brought us +in full sight of the picturesque, elevated, and precipitous shore, +called the Calico Rock. This presents a most imposing facade, on which +are observable the imitative forms of fantastic architectural devices. +The wall is quite precipitous throughout. It is the calcareous rock of +the region. Its summit is overlaid with ochreous clays of various +colors, which, through the action of the elements, have imparted their +fanciful hues to portions of the cliff. This abrupt species of scenery +is quite peculiar to the American landscape. A still more imposing +section of it is presented in the Pictured Rocks of Lake Superior. +Nothing of this kind marks the banks of the Rhine, so much eulogized by +travellers; for all its formations partake of the parabolic, or curved +lines of the primitive, and the eye is relieved by these gradations; +but, in the brusque scenes of the West, the precipices are as marked as +if they had been hewn down by some gigantic broad-axe. There are some +sections, in keeping with these harsh landscapes, on the Mississippi, +along the Missouri shores--less prominently along the Illinois borders, +near Alton--and at places in Iowa and Wisconsin; but more characteristic +in Minnesota, as the river escapes from its primitive plains, and +plunges over the falls of St. Anthony. We descended about thirty miles +this day, and found lodgment, at night, at a house on the left bank, +occupied by a Mr. Jeffery. + + +The next morning (17th), on descending five miles, we stopped at a Mr. +Williams's to prepare breakfast, where some persons were gathering to +hear an itinerant preacher. Twenty miles lower, we stopped for the +night, at a widow Lafferty's. + +From the remarks made at the places where we have been entertained by +the hunters and settlers on this river, there is considerable +dissatisfaction with a treaty[11] made with the Cherokee Indians, by +which a part of that nation are assigned a location between the north +banks of the Arkansas and the south bank of White river. Many of them, +including our hostess to-night, and the M'Gareys, Lees, and Matneys +above, have lands in cultivation, with dwelling-houses, stock, and +improvements, of more or less value, on the south banks of the river; +which, as they apprehend, under the operation of this treaty, they are +to relinquish to the Cherokees. + +The truth is, the first white occupants of the frontiers, though +generally rough men, and without a title to the lands they settle on, +are the pioneers of civilization; and by thus taking their lives in +their hands, and encountering the perils of the wilderness and of Indian +hostility, they lay the government under a strong obligation to protect +them. The natural hatred of races is such, that they are everlastingly +on ill terms with the Indians, and the Indians with them. It is +difficult to say which of the two races, during this period of contact, +is most suspicious of the other. + +The Indians, also, look up to the government with strong claims for +justice and protection. The frontier, at the beginning of the sixteenth +century, was on and near the Atlantic borders, from Maine to Georgia, +and long continued east of the Alleghany mountains. It is already west +of the Mississippi river, that mighty geographical highway, which, like +a longitudinal line, stretches across seventeen degrees of latitude, +every mile of which will, ere long, be settled and cultivated by the +Anglo-American race. As the population presses first on the Indian's +hunting-grounds, and next on his cornfields, he flies before the +irresistible tide, and takes shelter at some more remote western point. +But he is hardly well seated on his new hunting-grounds--he has hardly +begun to reap his new cornfields--when the pioneers of the same race +that disturbed him before, are upon him; and again, and again he must +fly before the resistless--the uncontrollable tide of migration. It is a +providential reflux in the wave of races. It is something to be +observed, rather than to be apprehended and understood. It seems to say, +that the surface of the habitable earth was not formed for the permanent +occupancy of races who rely on the pleasing and exciting uses of the bow +and arrow; and that labor, which was, at the first, declared to be the +proper condition of man, is destined to sweep away, if it cannot merge +in its on-rush, these erratic and picturesque tribes. Where their +frontiers will be found, a hundred years hence, the voice of history, +looking to the past, may only tell; but this appears more appreciable +and clear--that the perpetuation of the race as one of the elements of +mankind, must depend, in the sequel, however long that sequel be +postponed, on his substantial adoption of the principles of industry, +letters, and Christianity. The "tents of Shem," however we may read the +prediction, are still to be occupied, if they are not now, by a broad +philanthropy, to be merged into those of the higher civilization of +Japhet. For, the civilization and the moral elevation of man is the +great object of revelation; and it appears clear, and conformable to +reason, that, where future history is taught in the Pentateuch by +figures, it should be figuratively, and not dogmatically, explained. + + +On leaving Mrs. Lafferty's, in the morning of the 18th, we descended +about five miles, and stopped to breakfast at a Mr. Jones's. Rumor had +pointed out this place as the locality of a tin-mine. The frontiersmen +are greatly disposed to excite each other's imaginations by reports of +mines and discoveries, every one of which is fancied to be some new +Potosi or El Dorado. Our host was not backward in bringing to me some +specimens of his supposed treasure. It consisted of several heavy lumps +of the ore called, by mineralogists, iron glance. It had the usual +color, great weight, and high metallic lustre. He represented it as +occurring, in large bodies, about eight or ten miles north of his house, +on high lands, at the surface. + +We had proceeded some miles on our way, when a large black bear was +discovered on the shore. It appeared to be about to plunge in for the +purpose of crossing the river, when our presence alarmed it, and the +animal, with its usual clumsy gait, betook himself to the woods again. +The clumsiness of this animal's motions seems to be owing to the +bluntness of its hind paws, which appear as if, we should suppose, it +arose from re-curved legs. The Indians laugh at the gait of bruin. We +had encountered this species several times before, and always, as on +this occasion, found it disposed to flee. + +Fifteen miles below Jones's cabin, we passed Harden's ferry, the house +being on the right bank; and, two miles further on, we passed Morrison's +ferry. Continuing our descent eight miles lower, we landed at a place +called Poke Bayou, where we were hospitably received by a Mr. Robert +Bean. The river had now become a magnificent body of water, still clear +and beautiful. We were here within the boundaries of the Mississippi +alluvions. No highlands are visible for some distance before reaching +Harden's. The river winds through broad, fertile plains, bearing a most +vigorous growth of forest trees. The banks are elevated some thirty feet +above the water, and, as the stream increases in depth and strength, +they become subject to be undermined by the flood. The cane, which is +common to the river in its entire length, even to the highest elevations +of the Ozarks, is here of a tall and most vigorous growth. It is this +plant, I apprehend, more than any other feature, which gives an oriental +cast to these alluvial tracts; and I was almost ready, at some points, +where the growth concealed the trunks of the heavy forest, to see the +hippopotamus and elephant display their clumsy forms. For these, +however, we had the buffalo, the cougar, and the bear, whose crackling +strength, as they passed through these reedy mazes, had, on more than +one occasion during our rambles, reminded us of the great muscular power +of these boasted objects of hunter skill and enterprise. Often had a +fine dog, in the narrations of the hunters, paid the penalty of coming +within the stroke of the latter; and we could sympathise with the loss +of an animal, which is of the highest value in his pursuits. It is due +to this class of men to say, that, however rough they are in their +manners, we were uniformly received by them with a frank hospitality, +which appears to be always a point of honor with them; nor did any of +the number, to whom reward was proffered for entertainment, ever +condescend to receive a cent for anything in the shape of food or +lodging. + +The point of our landing was at the crossing of the lower Arkansas road. +About twelve or fourteen buildings of all sorts were clustered together, +forming a small village, which is now called Batesville; being the only +one which had been encountered since leaving Potosi. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[11] Treaty of 8th July, 1817. Vide Indian Treaties, p. 209. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + + ANCIENT SPOT OF DE SOTO'S CROSSING WHITE RIVER IN 1542-- + LAMENESS PRODUCED BY A FORMER INJURY--INCIDENTS OF THE + JOURNEY TO THE ST. FRANCIS RIVER--DE SOTO'S ANCIENT + MARCHES AND ADVENTURES ON THIS RIVER IN THE SEARCH AFTER + GOLD--FOSSIL SALT--COPPER--THE ANCIENT RANGES OF THE + BUFFALO. + + +I determined to quit the river at this point, and, after a night's rest, +made the necessary arrangements. + +There is almost a moral certainty that De Soto must have crossed the +river above this place. The make of the land, and the custom of the +Indians in choosing the best ground for a path to travel from village to +village, would determine this. His position, after crossing the +Mississippi at the mouth of the St. Francis, and reaching the high +grounds of the latter, would lead the natives who were his guides to +keep the elevated and dry ranges leading to the buffalo country, west; +and he must have crossed the affluents of the Black and Currents rivers +at a high point towards the Ozarks. The dry and open woods afforded the +best ground for the march of his cavalry; and when he attempted to reach +the salt and buffalo country from the region east of White river, the +roughness of the country would lead him to the central points of that +stream. It would be interesting, as a point of antiquarian interest, to +know where the old Indian paths were located. The roads, in all parts of +the country, were based on these. They led to the most practicable fords +of rivers, they avoided swamps and boggy grounds, and evinced a thorough +geographical knowledge of the conformation of the country. + +To travel where De Soto had travelled, and where he had performed some +of his heroic feats, had something pleasing, at least, in the +association. Doubtless, had the first occupants of Upper Louisiana been +as mindful of historical reminiscences as they were set on repeating his +search for gold and silver mines, they might have been rewarded by +finding some of the straggling bones of his broken-down Andalusian +cavalry. The fragments of broken arms and trappings were yet, perhaps, +concealed by the accumulated rank vegetable soil of Arkansas and +Southern Missouri, whence the plough may at no distant day reveal them. + +It was ten o'clock on the morning of the 19th, when, having made every +necessary preparation, we left Mr. Bean's. I regretted the necessity of +making a selection from my collection of minerals and geological +specimens. We set out with great alacrity. For the first five miles, we +passed over a level, fertile tract, with several plantations; the +remaining thirteen miles were comparatively sterile and uneven, without +settlements. We had passed about seventeen miles of the distance, when +my right foot and ankle began to flinch. I was not sensible of any slip +or sprain in walking, but rather believe it resulted from too much +ardour and anxiety to get forward. I had, about four years previously, +dislocated and injured the same ankle in leaping down a precipice in the +Green mountains, having mistaken a granitical shelf of rock at its base, +which was covered with autumnal leaves, for soft soil. I believe the +suddenness and alacrity of this day's travel, after leaving the quietude +of the canoe, had awakened a sympathy in the injured nerves. In a short +time, the pain was unendurable. With great effort I walked a mile +further, and reached a double log house, the mistress of which bathed +the ankle with salt and water, and made other applications. Some +alleviation, but no permanent relief, was obtained. I then laid down +under the hope of being better, but awoke on the morning of the 20th +with little or no abatement of the pain, and inflammation. A traveller +on horseback, coming along that morning on a fine animal, agreed, for a +small compensation, to let me ride to the south fork of Strawberry +river, while he went afoot. This helped me over twelve miles of the +road, where his path diverged; and I felt so much relieved by it, on +dismounting, that I managed, by easy stages, to walk four miles farther, +which brought us to the main river. The afternoon was not yet spent; but +the pain of my ankle had returned before reaching the river, and I found +it in vain to press forward, without adequate repose. + + +The next morning (21st), my travelling companion, who cared nothing for +natural history or antiquities, and was urgent to push on, left me, and +returned to St. Louis. Left alone, I felt, for a few moments, a sense of +isolation; but I was now in a region where there was no longer any +danger to be apprehended for the want of the first necessaries of life. +My lameness required nothing, indeed, but perfect repose. The people +were kind, and, when I ascertained that my hostess was a sister of one +of the hunters who had guided me in the most remote parts of my +wanderings in the Ozarks, there was a manifest point of sympathy. + +I found by inquiry that there were appearances of a mineral deposit in +this vicinity, which seemed to connect the hilly grounds of Strawberry +river with similar indications which have been noticed near the Bull +shoals, on White river. Appearances denote the existence of sulphuret of +lead in the vicinity. The sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, and +white crystalline masses of quartz, characterize the uplands. When my +foot and ankle would bear it, I proceeded by easy paces northward, +going, the first day after leaving the Strawberry valley, ten miles, +which brought me to a place called Dogwood Springs, so named from the +_cornus florida_. The next day I went ten miles further, when I came to +the banks of Spring river, where I was entertained by Major Haynes. Here +I first saw cotton in the fields, being the unpulled bolls of the autumn +crop, which had not been thought worth gathering. + +Feeling no injury to result from these easy marches, which gave me time +to examine the appearances of the surface, I ventured a little farther +on the recovery of my ankle, and, the third day, went nineteen miles. In +this distance I crossed the stream called Elevenpoints, a tributary to +Spring river, and came, at a rather late hour in the evening, into a +small valley called Foosh-e-da-maw, a popular corruption of the French +_Fourche a Thomas_. It was quite dark when I applied for a night's +lodging at a small cabin, being the only one I had encountered for many +miles. The man and his wife, who were its only occupants, were +manifestly not blessed with much of this world's goods; but they were +kind, and, though they had already gone to bed, and had but one room, +they permitted me to occupy a part of the floor. Spare bed they had +none; but, had they possessed ever so many, I did not require one. +Camping out under the open heavens so long, had created a habit which +made it impossible for me to rest in a soft bed. I had declined one the +night before, at Spring river, and thrown myself on a single blanket, on +the hard puncheons. I wished to keep my nerves up to this tense state, +and the hardy habits of the woodman, while I was compelled to foot my +way, and take my chances for rough fare, for some time. + +With the earliest gleams of light I was up, and walked four miles to +breakfast. Twelve more brought me to Hicks's ferry, on a large stream +called the Currents. I had camped on the source of this river, in the +cliffs of the Ozarks, on my outward trip, and found the region +remarkable for its large saltpetre caves. It was here a river of eight +feet deep, and three hundred yards wide. At this spot I should have +stopped; for, after going beyond it, I found the country was thinly +settled, which compelled me to walk some time after nightfall, before I +could find a house; and, on presenting myself, the man proved to be +surly and gruff, and denied me lodging. It was evident to me, from words +that passed, that his wife was expecting to be ill; and, as the house +was small, there seemed some reason for his apparent unkindness. I had +already come twenty-three miles; the night was dark, and threatened +rain; and the next house distant. I should have been happy to exclaim, +with the poet, + + "Turn, gentle hermit of the dale, and guide my lonely way!" + +but there was no gentle hermit in sight. It was clearly not a question +of poetry, but was likely to be one of sober, down-right prose. I said +to him, finally, after a look into the black darkness and desolate +woods, that I would only claim my length on the floor, and, to give no +uneasiness to his good lady, be off at the slightest intimation. He +consented, and I laid down without receiving any notice of the lady's +expected illness till morning, when I left my pallet at a very early +hour. For three miles beyond, it was a rough region, through which it +required daylight to pass, and where I must have lost my way in the +dark, had I gone on, the night previously. + +I stopped at a cottage for breakfast. It was occupied by a poor woman. +Everything bore tokens of this fact. She appeared to have little in the +way of eatables herself, but was very willing, in the article of +breakfast, to share that little with me. I had passed the night before +supperless, after a long day's walk, and the morning's air had further +excited my appetite; still, I should have gone on, had another +habitation been near at hand; but what the good woman wanted in means, +she made up in readiness and hearty good-will; and, if the meal was not +sumptuous, I arose as well satisfied as if I had breakfasted with a +lord. + +Thus refreshed, I went on ten miles, which brought me to the banks of +Little Black river. Two miles beyond this stream, I stopped at the house +of a Mr. Reeves, at an early hour in the afternoon, my ankle giving +indications of returning lameness. Quiet, and a night's repose, had the +effect to relieve these symptoms, and I was enabled cautiously to +continue my journey the next day. Daylight was ever my signal for +rising, and, by easy stages, I made seventeen miles during the day, +walking early and late. The first six miles of this distance were made +before I stopped for breakfast, and the next ten miles brought me to the +ferry over Big Black river--a clear, rapid stream, which, in its +progress to the south, is the recipient of all the before-mentioned +streams, from the Strawberry river, north; and is itself, finally, a +tributary of White river, maintaining through it a free navigation with +the Mississippi. After crossing the ferry, I went about half a mile +further, and took up my night's lodgings at a Mr. Bollinger's. I felt no +further weakness of my foot and ankle, and was happy in the reflection +that my cautious movements had been such as not to overtax the strength +of my nerves. Indeed, from this point, (till 1830,) I experienced no +further symptoms of lameness. + + +On the next morning (28th), I walked seven miles, and took breakfast at +a Mr. Esty's, where I fell in with the old road, which had originally +been laid, when the country came to be settled, on the ancient Indian +path. The elevated lands between Black river and the St. Francis, had +evidently been the line of march of De Soto, when (in 1541) he set +forward from "Quiguate," on the St. Francis, toward the "north-west," in +search of Coligoa. Any other course between west and south-west, would +have involved his army in the lagoons, and deep and wide channel, of +Black river, which forms a barrier for about one hundred and fifty miles +toward the south; while this dividing ground, between the Black river +and St. Francis, consists chiefly of dry pine lands and open uplands, +offering every facility for the movements of his cavalry, which were +ever the dread of the Indians. + +The first Indian village which De Soto reached, after crossing the +Mississippi--probably at the ancient Indian crossing-place at the lower +Chickasaw bluffs--and pushing on through the low grounds, was on +reaching the elevations of the St. Francis, immediately west of his +point of landing. The place was called Casquin, or Casqui; a name which +will be recognized as bearing a resemblance to one of the Illinois +tribes, who have long been known under the name of Kaskaskias. From this +place on the high lands of the St. Francis, he ascended that river, +keeping the same side of its current, through a fine country, abounding +in the pecan and mulberry, a distance of seven leagues, to the central +position of the Casquins. Here it was, and not on the immediate banks of +the Mississippi, that he erected a gigantic cross, formed out of a pine +tree, which, after it was hewn, a hundred men could not lift. + +From this place, after a rest of several days, he was led, by the wily +chief, to march against the village and chief of Capaha, who was his +hereditary enemy, and who had, in past encounters, proved himself more +than his equal in prowess. De Soto was caught in this trap, which had +nearly proved fatal to his gallant army. + +Descending the high grounds, evidently, towards the north-east, and +crossing alluvial tracts, by a march of about six days he reached the +enemy, well posted, strong in numbers, and of great bravery, on the +pastoral elevations, which we are disposed to look for at the site of +the modern Spanish town of New Madrid. Capaha took shelter on a thickly +wooded island in the Mississippi river, where De Soto, assisted by his +allies, attacked him in canoes, and from which his allies, and +afterwards he himself, were glad to retreat. The chief was a most brave, +energetic young man, and fought against his combined enemies with the +spirit inspired by long acknowledged success. This place formed the +extreme northern limit of De Soto's expedition on the line of the +Mississippi, and must have been north of 35 deg. After this effort, he +retraced his steps slowly back to Casqui. + +The Kapahas, of whom the Sioux are ethnologically a branch, have +occupied the west banks of the Mississippi, extending to the base of the +Rocky mountains, as long as we have known that stream. They have been +inveterate enemies of the whole Algonquin race, to which the Kaskaskias +and Illinois belonged; and it is not improbable that they had, at this +early day, not only encountered the Spaniards, but that, after their +withdrawal, they fell on the Casquins, and drove them east of the +Mississippi, into the country of the Illinois. + +While De Soto was in the country of Capaha, he learned that about forty +leagues distant, (west, it must needs have been,) there were, in the +hill country, quantities of fossil salt, and also a yellowish metal, +which he supposed to be gold. He despatched two trusty and intelligent +men, with Indian guides and carriers, to procure samples. After an +absence of eleven days, they returned, with six of the Indians laden +with crystals of salt, and one of them with metallic copper. A hundred +and twenty miles west of the supposed point of starting, would carry the +messengers across the valley of White river, and far into the Ozark +plains and elevations, between the south fork of that stream, and the +north banks of the Arkansas--the same region, in fine, mentioned, in a +prior part of these sketches, as yielding those articles, on the +authority of the experienced woodsman, Teen Friend. The country through +which these messengers passed was sterile and thinly inhabited; but they +reported it to be filled with herds of buffalo. These reports led him to +march down the banks of the St. Francis, till he reached the village +called Quiguate. From thence, having heard of a locality called Coligoa, +where he thought there might be gold, he marched again north-west in +search of it. This march, in which he followed a single Indian guide, +must have led him to the foot of the rough, mountainous, granitic, and +mineral region, at the sources of the St. Francis. But this search +proved also a disappointment. He was informed that, six leagues north of +Coligoa, the buffalo existed in vast herds; but that, if he would reach +a rich province, he must march south. It is possible that, in this +latitude, he may have, a little, exceeded the utmost point reached by +him on the Mississippi; and he hence confined his adventurous marches to +Southern Missouri and Arkansas. + + +Having taken the road again, after my halt at Esty's, I travelled +diligently ten miles, at which distance I reached the ferry of Dr. +Bettis, at the St. Francis. The scene was rural and picturesque, the +river winding along in a deep and rapid bed, between elevated and +fertile banks. From appearances, and old fields, it seemed altogether +such a spot as might have answered the glowing Spanish descriptions of +Casqui. The ferry was managed by a black man; and we cut an American +half-dollar on the top of an oak stump, agreeably to the Kentucky mode, +to adjust the ferriage. On landing on the north bank, I pursued my +journey six miles farther, to one Smith's. It was now the 28th of +January, and the weather so mild, that I this day found the witch-hazel +in bloom. + + + + +CHAPTER XV. + + + PROCEED NORTH--INCIDENTS OF THE ROUTE--A SEVERE TEMPEST OF + RAIN, WHICH SWELLS THE STREAM--CHANGE IN THE GEOLOGY OF THE + COUNTRY--THE ANCIENT COLIGOA OF DE SOTO--A PRIMITIVE AND + MINERAL REGION--ST. MICHAEL--MINE A LA MOTTE--WADE THROUGH + WOLF CREEK--A DESERTED HOUSE--CROSS GRAND RIVER--RETURN TO + POTOSI. + + +I left my night's quarters before daylight was fairly developed. The sky +was, indeed, heavily overcast, and it soon commenced raining. Expecting +to find a house at no great distance, I kept on, the rain at the same +time assuming a more settled form, and falling with steadiness. It was +seven miles before I reached shelter (Swaim's). I was thoroughly wetted, +and, the storm continuing without abatement, I remained until the next +morning. The atmosphere was then clear, and the sun rose pleasantly; but +the roads were a perfect quagmire. An immense body of rain had fallen. +Every little rivulet roared as if it were a torrent that was out of all +patience to deliver its quantum of water to the swollen St. Francis. The +ground was perfectly saturated with water; but I picked my way four +miles to breakfast. It had been my intention to cross the St. Francis, +and take the route through Caledonia to Potosi; but after travelling +sixteen miles towards the north-west, and reaching the fords, I found +them too much swollen to make the attempt. + +After crossing the St. Francis, towards the north, there are strong +indications of a change in the geological structure of the country. The +horizontal limestone and sandstone series still continue for a distance; +but they are covered with large blocks of sienite and granite. What is +remarkable in these blocks, is their angular character, which denotes +that they have not been carried far south of their original beds. These +blocks increase in frequency and size as we approach the primitive +highlands of the St. Francis. And I at length stood, gazing at these +rough, red, crystalline peaks, and high orbicular knobs, which reach up +from beneath and through the calcareous and sedimentary series, without +having lifted up the latter into inclined positions, or in the least +disturbing their horizontality--a proof of their priority of position. + +I passed the night near the fords, at a farmer's; and finding it +impossible, the next morning, to pursue this route, or to get a boat or +canoe to cross the river, obtained directions for making my way +north-eastwardly, towards St. Michael's. I was now in the probable +region of De Soto's Coligoa, the utmost north-westwardly point of his +explorations. And it ceased to be a matter of surprise that the Indians +had given him such wonderful accounts of the mineral wealth of the +sources of the St. Francis. The white inhabitants, at this day, have +similar notions. They perceive such an unusual geological display before +and around them, that they suppose it indicates mineral treasures. There +are stories afloat of all kinds of mineral discoveries--not of gold, +indeed, which was De Soto's search, but of tin, lead, copper, iron, +cobalt, and antimony. The iron mountains of Bellevieu, so called, are +part of this development. At a place called the Narrows, the river +rushes between alpine peaks of sienite and black hornblende rock, which +lies in huge and confused heaps, plainly indicating ancient volcanic +action. I had examined this region, with minuteness, the previous +summer, in an excursion through the southern limits of the lead-mines, +and now revisited some of the points, respecting which, my curiosity was +unsatisfied. I wandered among these attractive peaks about ten miles, +and slept at a house (Burdett's), to the occupant of which, I had +carried a letter of introduction the year before. + +The next day (Feb. 1) proved rainy; but I took advantage of intervals in +the weather to advance on my general course about three miles. The sky, +the next morning, was still cloudy, dark, and unsettled. When it +indicated signs of clearing up, I was advised of another ford of the +St. Francis, at a higher point; and I proceeded a part of the way to +reach it; but accounts discouraged me, and I bent my steps to the +village of St. Michael. Two miles north of this, I came to the noted +lead-mine of La Motte, the most southerly in position of the Missouri +circle of mines. At this place, they raised large tubular masses of +lead-ore, from its position in the red, marly clay. The slags drawn from +the ash-furnace denoted, by the intensity of their blue color, its +connexion with the oxide of cobalt. Ten miles beyond these mines, after +passing an uninhabited tract, I entered Cook's settlement, where I +slept. + +Next day, I was again in motion at early dawn. The effects of the late +copious rains were still an impediment to travelling; but I experienced +no further symptoms of lameness, and felt the desire to press on, +increasing in proportion as I drew near my starting-point in the prior +autumn. I felt that I had succeeded in the accomplishment of a trip of +some peril, through a noted mountainous range, into which all but one of +my original party had failed to accompany me, and my guides had deserted +me at a moment of peculiar peril. It was also true that my only +companion had rather abruptly left me, when taken lame on the road. I +could not, as I approached the spot of organizing my party for this +exploration, help feeling a degree of buoyancy of spirits, while +returning to it, in the hope of again meeting familiar acquaintances +face to face. + +Under this impulse, and with the high health produced by daily exercise, +I travelled ten miles on the following day. On reaching Wolf creek, it +was found to be filled to overflowing. It was already dark; and a +ruinous, tenantless house, with the doors and windows standing open, was +the only object that presented itself on the opposite bank. Horse or +canoe, there was none; but there could be no hesitation in attempting to +cross it. The waters, in the deepest parts of the channel, reached to my +breast. I came out, of course, dripping; it was still two miles to the +next house, and, casting furtive glances at the masses of darkness in +the deserted dwelling, and with a path muddy and indistinct, I hurried +on to the point of my destination. + +It was the 4th of February when I crossed Big river, the Grande river of +the days of Crozat and the financier Law. I was carried across it in the +ferry-boat, and took my way over the sylvan, long, sweeping mineral +hills, which stretch toward Potosi, entering that busy town at a +seasonable hour, having travelled fifteen miles. The first acquaintance +I encountered, on reaching within a few miles of it, was a Major +Hawkins--a surveyor, an old resident, and a good woodsman, who, +cordially extending his hand to welcome my return, exclaimed, "I thought +the Indians or the wolves had long ago eaten you up." This was the first +intimation I received that there had been any temerity in the plan for +this expedition. + +Potosi was now selected as the place for drawing up an account of the +mines, and the mineralogical productions and resources, of the +country--a memoir on which, was published at New York in the autumn of +this year (1819), and which is inserted, in a revised form, in the +Appendix to these sketches. + + + + +PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE WEST. + +TWO LETTERS ADDRESSED TO THE HON. J. B. THOMAS, +U. S. SENATE, WASHINGTON. + + +I. + + POTOSI, Missouri, Feb. 9th, 1819. + +SIR: I beg leave to address you on the subject of my recent +expedition into the Ozark region. When I was at your house at Cahokia, I +mentioned to you my design of making a tour into the interior of the +Territory. I have just returned from the excursion. Two persons were +associated with me in the enterprise; but one of them, our mutual +friend, Mr. Brigham, was compelled by illness to relinquish the journey, +and return, after he had reached Potosi. + +We proceeded in a south-west direction, which carried us across the +sources of the Maramec and Gasconade. We then entered on the elevated +highlands, which alternately pour their waters into the Missouri and +Mississippi rivers, reaching, in their development, to the Washita +river. Through this rough alpine range, the Arkansas, rising in the +Rocky mountains, penetrates, and is the only river that completely +separates the chain. Our explorations were confined to the region lying +on its northern banks. Winter overtook us on the sources of the White +river, giving us a few days of severe weather, but offering, generally, +no impediment to travelling. There is much that is most striking and +picturesque in the scenery of this region, and not less in its +productions and physical character. Nowhere, probably, on the globe, is +there such a remarkable succession of limestone caverns, and large, +transparent springs. At several places, large brooks flow abruptly out +of crevices in the rock; and at one place, a flowing stream, Spring +river, thus originates. We found the ores of lead, iron, and manganese, +in large bodies. The high uplands are often rent by precipitous valleys +and large chasms, caused by the force of these streams. These valleys +are well wooded, and contain the richest soil. And this broad region +must at no distant day attract settlement, and will afford facilities +for agriculture and mining, while its abundant water-power gives it +great advantages for milling and manufactures. + +The country is a continuation of the limestone and sandstone formations +of the west banks of the Mississippi. The number and extent of the +caverns in this formation, is, indeed, remarkable. They yield saltpetre +earth, wherever they have been explored. Nitrate of potash has been +manufactured in some of these caves, and transported across the +wilderness for eighty miles; and a valuable traffic in this article may +be established. In the district between the head-waters of White river +and the Arkansas, salt is found, in a crystallized state, in the +prairies. The region is still occupied by herds of the buffalo, elk, +deer, and by the bear, and smaller animals of the latitude, which +renders it an attractive country to hunters and trappers. + +The Osage Indians, who inhabit it, are the cause of fear and alarm to +this class; but it did not appear to us, from the sparse numbers of the +Indians, and the periodical flying visits they are in the habit of +making the eastern and northern parts of it, that there is ground of +permanent apprehension from this source. The policy of locating the +Cherokees on the north banks of the Arkansas, may well be questioned; +and I have heard this arrangement much spoken against. + +Indeed, the agricultural value of the country has been much underrated. +Independent of the mineral discoveries mentioned, the arable lands of +the Ozark summit-level constitute one of the richest and most beautiful +districts in the Territory. The high grass and flowers which cover the +prairie-lands, impart the most sylvan aspect to the scene. Springs of +the purest water abound, and, by avoiding the chasms, the country is +susceptible of being traversed by roads. It only requires to be better +known, to attract the notice of emigrants, and will some day bear a +great population. I do not doubt that the high road from St. Louis to +Fort Smith will probably cross this tract of country. Such a route must +greatly shorten the distance. + +I cannot refer you to a correct map of the country, and therefore +enclose you a sketch, explanatory of my route. From a conversation with +Mr. Brigham, I cannot mistake your friendly influence in these +explorations. I am desirous to extend them to other parts of the +frontiers. I understand that the Secretary of War entertains enlarged +and enlightened views on the subject. I should be pleased to be employed +in this branch of the public service. + + I am, with respect, your ob't serv't, + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + + +II. + + POTOSI, Feb. 15, 1819. + +SIR: I had the honor, on the 9th instant, to address you on the +subject of my journey into the region of the Ozarks. You will allow me +again to trouble you on the subject of explorations. + +Government has long been acquainted, by reports, with the existence of +native copper on the Upper Mississippi, and the banks of lake Superior. +I believe the attempt was made about 1798, to have the localities +explored. I know not what success attended that attempt. Probably the +remoteness of the country, and the hostility of the Indian tribes, were +unfavorable. But I am persuaded that the object is one of importance. + +The mineralogy of those regions became the topic of early interest, even +in the days of the French supremacy. Copper appears to characterize an +extensive area. It is stated to break out in the immediate vicinity of +St. Anthony's falls, and to continue through to the southern shores of +lake Superior. In its exploration, other traits of the natural history +of the country would be developed. + +The establishment of a military post at St. Anthony's falls, renders the +present a favorable time for exploring the region. Its features and +resources are objects of deep interest; and it appears to be the policy +of the government, in the disposition of its western and northern posts, +to prepare the way for ascertaining these traits at the earliest period. +The position of the most advanced posts which are now in the process of +location, is such as to afford great facilities for exploration. The +hostilities of the Indians are repressed, and a survey of these parts of +the public domain could now be effected with comparative safety, and at +little expense. + +Should you think the appointment of an agent for this purpose, to +accompany some of the military movements, would be favorably received by +the Secretary of War, may I indulge the hope that, in recommending it, +you will remember me in the premises? + + I am, with respect, your ob't serv't, + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + + + + + APPENDIX. + + OBSERVATIONS + + ON THE + + MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, ANTIQUITIES, + + AND + + GEOGRAPHY OF THE WESTERN COUNTRY. + + + + +LIST OF PAPERS. + + A. MINERALOGY, GEOLOGY, AND MINES. + + 1. A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI. + + 2. A CATALOGUE OF THE MINERALS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. + + 3. MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WESTERN COUNTRY. A LETTER TO GEN. + C. G. HAINES. + + + B. GEOGRAPHY. + + 1. MISSOURI. + + 2. HOT SPRINGS OF WASHITA. + + 3. MEMOIR OF WHITE RIVER. + + 4. LIST OF STEAMBOATS ON THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER IN 1819. + + + C. ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY. + + 1. ARTICLES OF CURIOUS WORKMANSHIP FOUND IN ANCIENT INDIAN GRAVES. + + 2. ANCIENT INDIAN CEMETERY FOUND IN THE MARAMEC VALLEY. + + + + +I. LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI. + +A MEMOIR ON THE GEOLOGY AND MINERALOGY OF MISSOURI, DRAWN UP IN 1819. + + + + +PREFACE. + +When we reflect on the history of our own country--its advance in arts, +commerce, and agriculture, and the rapidity with which its population +has increased, and its resources been developed--the mind is with +difficulty brought to believe that all this has taken place within a +comparatively short period. These developments are particularly striking +in the region west of the Alleghany mountains. A new world has, as it +were, been discovered in the Mississippi valley, which, under the strong +impulse of emigration, has been transformed, as if by superhuman +exertions. No sooner had its great fertility and productiveness become +known, than a universal desire for correct information sprang up. Our +first travellers in that region did little more, however, than glance at +its most obvious and grand features; and with respect to some topics, +such as its antiquities and natural history, these notices have had the +effect rather to stimulate, than to gratify curiosity. + +But, whatever information has been published respecting the country, its +mineralogy and geology have remained wholly unnoticed. The mines of +Missouri, especially, have failed to attract the consideration which +they merit. To supply this deficiency, I have written the following +memoir. It is the result of no ordinary degree of opportunity of +observation upon the particular mines, and their geological position in +the great metalliferous limestone formation west of the Mississippi. +Besides visiting the principal mines, and traversing the country +thoroughly, to ascertain the character and value of its mineral +resources and geological developments, I made an exploratory tour +through the broad and elevated region of the Ozarks, lying west and +south of this celebrated tract, extending into the Territory of +Arkansas. If, therefore, I have failed to collect a body of facts +sufficient to impress the reader with a sense of the extent, value, and +importance of the country, and particularly of its mines and minerals, +it can hardly be ascribed to a want of opportunity, or, indeed, of +assiduity in the study or arrangement of my facts. + +The historical data here recorded, respecting Renault's operations, have +never, I believe, appeared in print. They were elicited in the course of +a legal investigation, instituted between the heirs-at-law of Renault, +the agent of Crozat, in 1723, and sundry individuals, who claimed the +same grants on the authority of a date subsequent to the transfer of +Louisiana to the United States. + +The drawings I give of the lead-furnaces which are peculiar to that +section of country, are from actual measurement, done under the eye of +an operative smelter of approved skill at Potosi, and are conceived to +be minutely correct. + + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + NEW YORK, Nov. 25, 1819. + +In republishing this memoir, advantage has been taken of several +judicious suggestions respecting it, made in a critical notice of it, by +the able editor of the American Journal of Science, in the volume of +that work for 1821. + + H. R. S. + WASHINGTON, Jan. 20, 1853. + + + + +A VIEW OF THE LEAD-MINES OF MISSOURI. + + +SECTION I. + +HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE MINES. + +The rage for adventure, which the brilliant exploits of Cortez, Pizarro, +and other Spanish adventurers, had excited throughout Europe, continued +for a long time to agitate the public mind, and had not abated at the +commencement of the eighteenth century, when an idea of the mineral +riches of Louisiana had become prevalent. Gold and silver were then the +chief objects which engrossed attention; and in search of them, the +earliest discoverers were led to penetrate into the interior. The +physical aspect of the country was in general such as to flatter the +most sanguine expectations of mineral wealth; and the further the +country became known, the more interesting was found its mineralogical +character. To men whose preconceived ideas of a country were already +high, such appearances must have had the most inspiriting effect, and +lightened the embarrassments they encountered in exploring a wilderness. +Many of the useful metals were thus met with, and gold and silver mines +were reported to have been discovered in several places. Red river, the +Arkansas, and the river La Platte of the Missouri, were particularly +mentioned; and from the evidence which is afforded by the discovery of +ancient furnaces, &c., there is reason to conclude that those metals +were wrought at a very early period. Judging from appearances, they were +ready to conclude the country exhaustless in mines; and the most +exaggerated accounts of them appear to have been transmitted to Europe, +particularly to France, where a lively interest was felt in the +prosperity of the infant colonies in Louisiana and Illinois; and in the +descriptions published at that day, the lands are reputed to equal in +fertility the banks of the Nile, and the mountains to vie with the +wealth of Peru. + +It was in this supposition of the immense wealth of Louisiana, both in +the vegetable and mineral kingdoms, that the renowned Mississippi scheme +originated, which, from the imposing character it was made to assume +under the guidance and direction of M. Law, drew upon it the eyes, not +only of France, but of all Europe, and produced one of the most +memorable disappointments recorded in the annals of commercial +speculation. + +Louis XIV., by letters patent, bearing date September 14th, A. D. 1712, +granted to Anthony Crozat, Counsellor of State, Secretary of the +Household, &c., the exclusive privilege of commerce of that district of +country, now known as the States of Louisiana, Mississippi, Tennessee, +and Illinois, and the Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, with the +proprietary right of the mines and minerals he should discover in the +country, reserving the fifth part of all bullion of gold and silver, and +the one-tenth of the produce of all other mines. The exclusive privilege +of commerce was granted for a term of fifteen years; but the right of +the mines was conveyed in perpetuity to him and his heirs, on the +condition that such mines and minerals should revert back to the crown +of France, whenever the working of them was discontinued for three years +together. The bounds of Louisiana, as granted to Crozat, are described +in these words: "Bounded by New Mexico, (on the west,) and by the lands +of the English of Carolina, (on the east,) including all the +establishments, ports, havens, rivers, and principally the port and +haven of the Isle of Dauphine, heretofore called Massaere; the river of +St. Louis, heretofore called Mississippi, from the edge of the sea as +far as the Illinois; together with the river of St. Philip, heretofore +called Ouabache (Wabash); with all the countries, territories, lakes +within land, and the rivers which fall directly or indirectly into that +part of the river of St. Louis." + +In the month of August, A. D. 1717, M. Crozat solicited permission to +retrocede to the crown his privilege of the exclusive commerce and the +mines of Louisiana, which was granted by an arret of the Council of +State, during the minority of Louis XV. In the same month, letters +patent were granted by the Council of the Regency to an association of +individuals at Paris, under the name of "The Company of the West," by +which they were invested with the exclusive privilege of the commerce of +Louisiana, and the working of the mines, to the same extent as it was +enjoyed under the grant of Crozat. These letters patent were dated on +the 23d of August, A. D. 1717, registered 6th September of the same +year, and were to be in force on the 1st of January, 1718, and to +continue for a period of twenty-five years. By them, not only such +grants and privileges were conveyed as had previously been enjoyed by +Crozat; but they were invested with additional powers, rights, and +privileges. The territory was granted in free allodium, (_en franc +allieu_,) in lordship and injustice, the crown reserving to itself no +other rights or duties but those of fealty and liege homage, which the +company was required to pay to the king, and to his successors at each +mutation of kings, with a crown of gold of the weight of thirty marks. +The boundaries were the same as described in the grant to Crozat; and +the mines and mining grounds, opened or discovered during the term of +its privilege, were declared to belong to the company incommutably, +without being holden to pay any rents or proceeds whatever. The company +was also invested with the right to sell and alienate the lands of its +concession, at whatever price or rents they might fix, and even to grant +them _en franc allieu_, without reserving the rights of justice or +lordship. It was also provided, that if, after the expiration of the +twenty-five years for which the exclusive privilege of commerce was +granted, the king should not see proper to continue the privilege by a +new grant, all the lands and islands, mines, and mining grounds, which +the Company of the West should have inhabited, worked, improved, or +disposed of on rent, or any valuable consideration whatever, should +remain to it for ever in fee simple, to use and dispose of as a proper +inheritance, on the simple condition that the company should never sell +such lands to any other than the subjects of France. + +A company incorporated with such ample rights and privileges, did not +fail to draw upon it the attention of the speculative, or to enlist the +aid of the enterprising capitalists of the French metropolis. The +country of the Illinois was reputed rich beyond comparison: the +financial estimates submitted to the view of the public, offered +prospects of unusual gain, and capitalists flocked with avidity from all +quarters to enrol themselves as members of the company, and partake of +the promised wealth. If anything had been wanting to accelerate the pace +of adventurers, or to fan the ardor of hope, it was the genius, the +financial abilities, and the commanding influence of M. Law, who was +placed at the head of the company, and was the moving power in every +transaction. Hence, it is no subject for surprise that the most +extravagant anticipations were entertained by the members of the Company +of the West, or that the unusual splendor of the Mississippi scheme was +only equalled by the signal disappointment in which it eventuated. + +In the year after the Company of the West had been instituted by the +royal patent of the king, they formed an establishment in the country of +the Illinois, at fort Chartres; and in order to promote the objects of +their institution, and to encourage the settlement of the country, held +out the most liberal inducements to French emigrants, and made them +donations of all lands which they should cultivate or improve. Miners +and mechanics were also encouraged to emigrate; and the city of New +Orleans, which had been founded during the last year of the authority of +Crozat (1717), received a considerable accession to its population in +the fall of the same year, and settlements began to extend along the +banks of the Mississippi, and in the country of the Illinois. + +Among the number of adventurers to Illinois, was Philip Francis Renault, +(the son of Philip Renault, a noted iron-founder at Consobre, near to +Mauberge, in France,) who came over as the agent of the Company of St. +Phillips, an association of individuals which had been formed under the +patronage of the western company, for prosecuting the mining business in +the upper country of Louisiana and Illinois. It appears also that he +was a member of the Company of the West, and he is spoken of as +"Director-General of the mines of the Royal Company in Illinois;" a name +by which not only the present State of Illinois, but a vast district of +the adjoining country, appears then to have been known. + +Renault left France in the year 1719, with two hundred artificers and +miners, provided with tools, and whatever else was necessary for +carrying the objects of the company into effect. In his passage he +touched at the island of St. Domingo, and purchased five hundred slaves +for working the mines; and, entering the Mississippi, pursued his voyage +up that river to New Orleans, which he reached some time in the year +1720, and soon afterwards proceeded on his way to Kaskaskia, in +Illinois. Kaskaskia was then inhabited solely by the French, and was one +of the earliest posts occupied by them when they began to extend +themselves from Canada, along the great western lakes, and down the Ohio +and Mississippi. Renault established himself in the vicinity of this +town, near fort Chartres, at a spot which he named St. Phillips, (now +called the Little Village,) and from this sent out his mining and +exploring parties into various sections of Illinois and Louisiana. These +parties were either headed by himself, or by M. La Motte; an agent +versed in the knowledge of minerals, whom he had brought over with him. +In one of the earliest of these excursions La Motte discovered the +lead-mines on the St. Francis, which bear his name; and, at a subsequent +period, Renault made the discovery of those extensive mines north of +Potosi, which continue to be called after him. Other mines of lead were +also found, but their distinctive appellations have not survived; and a +proof of the diligence with which Renault prosecuted the object, is +furnished by the number and extent of the old diggings which are yet +found in various parts of the country. These diggings are scattered over +the whole mine country; and hardly a season passes, in which some +antique works, overgrown with brush and trees, are not found. + +Renault, being probably disappointed in the high expectations he had +formed of finding gold and silver, turned his whole force towards the +smelting of lead; and there is reason to conclude that very great +quantities were made. It was conveyed from the interior on pack-horses +(the only mode of transportation which was practicable at that early +period). The lead made by Renault was sent to New Orleans, and thence +chiefly shipped for France. That he also discovered copper, is probable, +as a grant of land made to him at Old Peoria, on the Illinois river, +embraces a copper-mine. + +Renault's operations were, however, retarded and checked, from a quarter +where it was least expected. By an edict of the king, made at Paris, in +May, 1719, the Company of the West was united to the East India and +Chinese Company, under the title of the Company Royal of the Indies (_La +Compagnie Royale des Indies_). And in 1731, the whole territory was +retroceded to the crown of France, the objects of the company having +totally failed; and Renault was left in America, without the means of +prosecuting the shining business. His exertions in behalf of the company +were not, however, overlooked by the government, and four several grants +of land were made to him in consideration of his services. These grants +bear date June 14th, A. D. 1723, and cover the Mine La Motte, and some +other very valuable tracts, which, after having laid dormant for a +period of about sixty years, have recently been claimed by the +representatives of his heirs-at-law. + +Renault, however, remained in Illinois several years after the explosion +of the Mississippi scheme, and did not return to his native country +until 1742. With him the greater part of his workmen returned; the +slaves were sold, and the mining business fell into neglect. Here is a +period to the first attempt at mining in Louisiana. The country was +ceded to Spain in 1762, and taken possession of in 1769. + +After Renault's departure, little or nothing appears to have been done +in the way of mining; and, even after the Spanish had taken possession +of the country, the lead-mines were but little attended to. The force +which Renault had with him was sufficient to protect him from the +attacks of the savages; but, after his departure, the settlements on the +Mississippi, feeble in themselves, could not furnish protection to such +as might be disposed to work at the mines. The Spanish, however, in a +few years after taking possession of the country, did something; and in +process of time new discoveries were made, and the mining business began +to assume a more respectable character. The principal discovery made +under the Spanish authority was that of Mine a Burton, which takes its +name from a person of the name of Burton, or Le Breton,[12] who, being +out on a hunt in that quarter, found the ore lying on the surface of +the ground. This man, who is still living in the vicinity of St. +Genevieve, at the advanced age of one hundred and nine years, had been +employed while a youth under Renault. The period of this discovery it +would be very difficult now to ascertain, Burton himself being unable to +fix it. It has probably been known about forty years. + +The processes of mining pursued under the Spanish government appear to +have been very rude and imperfect, not more than fifty per cent. of lead +being got from the ore. The common open log furnace was the only one +employed, and the lead-ashes were thrown by as useless. + +In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., performed a journey from the lead-mines in +Wythe county, Virginia, to the Mine a Burton, in Louisiana, and obtained +a grant of land one league square, from the Spanish authorities, in +consideration of erecting a reverberatory furnace, and other works, for +prosecuting the mining business at those mines. This he commenced in +1798, previous to which time no furnace for smelting the ashes of lead +had been erected. Mr. Austin sunk the first regular shaft for raising +the ore, and introduced some other improvements which were found +beneficial. He also, in 1799, erected a shot-tower, in which patent shot +of an approved quality were made. A manufactory of sheet-lead was +completed during the same year, and the Spanish arsenals at New Orleans +and Havana drew a considerable part of the supplies for their navy from +this source. + +About this time, a few other American families crossed over into +Louisiana Territory, and settled in the neighborhood of the mines. +These, from their more enlightened and enterprising spirit, were an +acquisition to the mining interest; and as their earliest attention was +directed to it, the lead business began to revive; and at the time the +Territory was taken possession of by the United States, the mines were +extensively and advantageously worked.[13] The Mine a Robino, Mine a +Martin, and many others, were shortly afterwards discovered. Since the +year 1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied; +Shibboleth, New Diggings, Lebaum's, and Bryan's mines, are among the +latest discoveries of consequence. + +The lead-mines did not fail to attract the earliest attention of the +American government; and, immediately after the occupation of the +Territory, measures were taken to ascertain their situation, the method +of working them, &c. Several laws have since been enacted on the +subject, and a reservation made of all discoveries upon public lands. + +The emigration to Louisiana, which had partially commenced under the +Spanish government, took a more decided character after the cession of +the country to the United States, but has been particularly great within +the last few years. + +In 1812, that part of Louisiana bordering on the gulf of Mexico, +including New Orleans, and extending up the Mississippi to 33 deg. north +latitude, was erected into a State under the name of Louisiana, and the +remainder formed into a territorial government by the name of Missouri. +There is a petition now before Congress (Feb. 1819) for the admission of +Missouri into the Union on a footing with the original States. By this +petition it is contemplated that White river will form the southern +boundary; and the country between that and the northern line of +Louisiana, including our claims on the Spanish, will be erected into a +territorial government, under the name of Arkansas.[14] + +Respecting the present state of the lead-mines, it is only necessary +here to add, that they are worked in a more improved manner than at any +former period; that they are more extensive than when the country came +into the hands of the United States, and of course give employment to a +greater number of miners, while every season is adding to the number of +mines; and that the ores may be considered of the richest kind. Every +day is developing to us the resources of this country in minerals, and +particularly in lead; and we cannot resist the belief that, in riches +and extent, the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no other mineral +district. In working the mines, in raising and smelting the ore, and in +the establishment of the different manufactures dependent upon it, there +is much to be done. Though the processes now pursued are greatly +superior to those in use under the French and Spanish governments, there +is still ample room for improvement. The earth has not yet been +penetrated over eighty feet! We know not what may be found in the lower +strata of the soil. There is reason to believe that the main bodies of +ore have not yet been hit upon; that they lie deeper, and that we have +thus far only been engaged upon the spurs and detached masses. There is +also reason to believe that bodies of the ores of zinc exist in the +district of the mines, and that copper will be afforded by the lower +strata of earth. It is found overlaid by lead-ores in many of the +European mines; and the geognostic character of the country leads us to +conclude that it may also be found here. + +The want of capitalists in the mine country, and of practical skill in +the boring, blasting, sinking shafts and galleries, oppose obstacles to +the successful progress of mining. There is but one regular +hearth-furnace for smelting in the whole district; and that is on the +modern plan of English furnaces. There are not over four or five regular +shafts in about forty mines; there is not an engine, either by horse, +steam, or water power, for removing water from the mines, several of +which have been abandoned on this account, with rich prospects of ore in +view. In fine, there is little of that system which characterizes the +best-conducted European mines, and which, by an application of the most +recent discoveries in mechanics, chemistry, and philosophy, render them +the admiration of every intelligent visiter. Should the subject attract +the attention of mining capitalists, the circumstance would form a new +era in the history of the mining operations of this country. Something +also remains to be done by the government; the existing laws are +inadequate to the purposes for which they were enacted. That feature +restricting leases to three years, is injudicious; the period is so +short, that it deters those who are most able from engaging in it at +all. It is desirable that such a system should be established as would +indicate the annual produce of the mines, number of hands employed, and +such other facts as are necessary in forming a series of statistical +tables on the subject. The want of such data has hitherto prevented us +from properly estimating the importance of the mines in a national point +of view. The acquisition of a scientific knowledge of minerals should +also be facilitated in this quarter. There should be a mineralogical +school located in the country, where students might be instructed in +that useful science. In a country so rich in minerals, and whose wealth +will always so much depend upon a proper development of these resources, +the knowledge of mineralogy should be laid open to every one, and should +be within the reach of such as do not wish, or cannot get, the other +branches of a liberal education. To obtain this knowledge now, a person +would be compelled to travel to remote parts of the Union, and to incur +an unreasonable expense. No one who is conversant with the advantages +which Germany has derived from such a seminary, will deny the utility of +a similar one in the United States. + +Yet, with all the disadvantages under which the lead-mines have been +viewed, there are many who may be surprised to find their annual +products, from the best information, stated at three millions of pounds; +and from this some idea may be formed of their riches and extent, and, +when they come to be properly and regularly worked, how greatly they +will contribute to the national wealth.[15] + + +SECTION II. + +TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL OUTLINE OF THE MINE COUNTRY. + +The district of country formerly known as the lead-mines of Louisiana, +extends from the head waters of the St. Francis, in a north-west +direction, to the Maramec, a distance of seventy miles, by about +forty-five in width, having the Mississippi on its eastern borders. It +is included, very nearly, between 37 deg. and 38 deg. north latitude, and +comprises an area of about three thousand square miles. Most of the +mines are situated within a circle of this general area, of which Potosi +and Mine a Burton constitute a centre. + +The rock formation of the country appears to be simple and uniform. At +the lowest depths observed in valleys, there is a crystalline sandstone, +which often consists of transparent quartzose grains, adhering by the +force of aggregation. The lead-bearing limestone reposes upon this. Both +formations are deposited in perfectly horizontal strata. Valleys which +carry streams have been worn down into this formation, presenting this +order of arrangement very satisfactorily. A stratum of red, marly clay, +spreads over the limestone. Above this, constituting the top layer, or +surface soil, rests a bed of diluvial materials, filled with broken-down +fragments of rock, masses of radiated quartz, and chips of hornstone. +Vegetable matter and black sand form a covering over such parts of this +diluvial deposit as constitute valleys and agricultural plains. The +Mississippi river lays open this formation along its western banks, from +the influx of the Missouri to Cape Girardeau. + +Beneath this metalliferous column lie the primitive rocks. The most +striking feature of this kind is found in the occurrence of a primitive +formation at the sources of the river St. Francis. My attention was +arrested by this fact, soon after I began to examine the mine country. +This formation consists of sienite, rather than granite; the mica being +generally replaced or represented by hornblende. The feldspar, which +constitutes three-fourths of the mass, is of a dull red hue. The rock in +connection is greenstone trap, which is sometimes porphyritic. I +observed small masses of sulphuret of iron in some parts of this rock. +The upheaval of this formation appears to have been of the most ancient +era of geological action; for the stratified limestones and sandstones, +which lie upon or in juxtaposition to these elevations, have not been +disturbed in their horizontality. The altitude of this primitive tract +does not probably exceed one thousand feet above the waters of the St. +Francis river. Vast blocks of the red sienite have been detached, and +scattered southwardly over the secondary rocks, apparently by the force +of some antique deluge, setting from the north. The whole series of +formations may be judged of by the following diagram: + +[Illustration] + +The general aspect of the country is sterile, though not mountainous. +The lands lie rolling, like a body of water in gentle agitation. In some +places they rise into abrupt cliffs, where the rock formations appear. +Generally, they present the form of diluvial ridges, sparingly covered +with forest, and bearing a growth of prairie-grass and herbage. The +western banks of the Mississippi, between St. Genevieve and Herculaneum, +present a mural front to this district, in a series of elevated +perpendicular cliffs of compact limestone. The whole coast extending to +St. Louis, appears to be sufficiently elevated to have served as a +former barrier to waters covering the low grounds of Illinois. The +strata exhibit ancient water-marks of a diluvial character. They are +broken through, from the west, by small streams draining the mine +country. + +No indications of lead-ore have been found in these cliffs. The mines +are situated at considerable distances west of them; and when the +observer has arrived at their localities, he finds the ore often lying +in the unconsolidated soil. This soil is a stiff, reddish-colored clay, +filled with fragments of cherty stones, quartz, and small gravel, +clearly attesting its diluvial character. This soil extends to the depth +of from ten to twenty feet, or more, and is based on limestone rock. It +is so firm, in some places, as almost to resist the pick-axe; in others, +it partakes more fully of marl, and is readily penetrated. The ore lies +in this marly clay, and is often accompanied by sulphate of barytes and +calcareous spar. The country is particularly characterized by radiated +quartz, which is strewn in detached pieces over the ground, and is also +found imbedded in the soil at all depths. This substance is here called +_blossom of lead_, or _mineral blossom_. Pyrites, and some other ores of +iron, are also found in detached masses upon the surface, and, very +rarely, lead-ore. + +Such is the general character of the mineral lands, which are covered +with a stunted growth of oaks, denominated post-oaks. Walnut is found in +some instances out of the valleys. A ridge of yellow pine extends west +of the mines, between the St. Francis and Maramec, and is more decidedly +barren than the grounds covered with oak. All the open, elevated tracts, +are clothed with herbage, which hides their flinty aspect, and gives the +country a picturesque appearance. The minor slopes and ravines are often +rendered almost impassable by hazel, vines, and other bramble, which +appear to be indicative of a better, or rather a deeper soil. The whole +area of upland soil, which rests as a mantle over the rocks, is a +diluvium, which must, we think, be referred to an early period of +diluvial action. + +The only true alluvium of the mines appears to be confined to the +valleys or plains, which are, consequently, the principal seats of +cultivation, and thus derive an additional value from their contiguity +to the barren tracts. This alluvium rests on the red marl-clay, or +mineral diluvium; the latter of which is uniformly found on penetrating +it. Some of the mines exist in, and have been pursued beneath, this top +alluvion, across the valleys. Others are seated beneath an arable soil, +bearing a forest. Many of the most barren and stony parts of the +elevated lands are, on the contrary, destitute of mines. The depth of +the mineral soil varies exceedingly. It barely conceals the rock +formations in many of the more elevated positions, and frequently does +not conceal them. It is deepest in the plains and depressed grounds, +being accumulated much in the manner we should expect, on the +supposition of a general diluvial submersion. + +The principal objection to a general diluvial action, involving the +whole Mississippi valley, appears to arise from the admission of the +limestone rock's being the true locality of the ore. But we think there +are too many facts in support of this opinion, to leave any reasonable +grounds for questioning it. Several of the mines in the mineral soil +have been traced down into the rock, and have been pursued through +apertures, closing and expanding in the manner of true veins. In the +numerous cases where the rock has put a stop to further mining, and it +has exhibited no signs of ore, it may be supposed that the ore has been +moved, by diluvial force, from the original position of the mine, and +been finally deposited, with the soil, upon unmetalliferous portions of +the rock. And could we with certainty determine the course of diluvial +action, the principles of mining might be, in some respects, employed in +searching for the original vein. It is evident, from the unscratched +and unbroken surface of much of the ore and its spars, that it could not +have been transported far; while the portions of it called gravel ore, +which evince its diluvial character, are manifest proofs of a change, +more or less extensive, in the general position of the ore. + +With respect to the character of the limestone, we have been perplexed +with its protean character, and, to avoid apparent contradictions, were +led, at first, to adopt distinctions of strata, which we very soon saw +were untenable. It is evidently the American equivalent for the +metalliferous limestone of England, and, as a formation, is of the +transition era. In a specimen of this rock, now before us, taken from a +fresh excavation at Potosi, forty feet below the surface of the soil, +and thirty-one feet below the original surface of the rock, the +structure is in part compact, and in part granular; the compact portions +having minute shining crystalline points, and the granular being without +any appearance of crystallization, but changing, in the width of about +forty lines, from compact granular to a dull arenaceous structure, quite +friable between the fingers. Part of the mass is vesicular, and the +vesicles are studded over with minute crystals of white opaque quartz. +The two extremes of this specimen have the appearance of totally +different formations, yet are both calcareous. By experiment, I found a +portion of the lower arenaceous part almost completely soluble, in the +cold, in nitro-sulphuric acid; and the actual residuum was, in part, +owing to a defect in trituration. + +Most of the limestone rock disclosed by excavation in the mines, is of +the granulated kind; while the structure of the rock above the surface, +where the strata are exposed to the weather, as in cliffs and +hill-sides, is of the solid, glistening, pseudo-compact variety. Both +these varieties, as shown in the specimen, are geologically identical, +notwithstanding their striking differences in hardness, structure, +colour, and particularly in crystalline lustre. This lustre is, however, +as shown by examination with the magnet, owing almost exclusively to +minute facets of calcareous crystals, which render it rather sparry than +crystalline. + +We have examined large portions of this rock, in all its varieties, for +organic remains; but have not succeeded in finding any well-characterized +species, although a further and fuller search might, and probably would, +disclose some species. We observed a single mass of the rock, an +imperfectly columniform structure, apparently organic. The rock is +rather vesicular than cavernous in its structure. The heavy deposit of +diluvium conceals the surface. But if the appearances in the +mine-diggings are to be received as general indicia, the surface of the +concealed rock is extremely rough and irregular, standing up, in the +mineral soil, in huge lumps, which renders the general depth at which it +may be reached, a question of great uncertainty. + +It has been intimated that the sparry-compact, and the dull granulated +varieties of the limestone, are often contiguous; and we have seen, by +the examination of a hard specimen, that they are geologically +identical as a formation. If this compact variety from the mines be +compared with the principal formation in the precipitous cliffs forming +the western banks of the Mississippi, in front of the mine tract, they +will be found to coincide in so many points, that these two localities +may be deemed parts of the same formation, and as being identical in +age. The principal differences consist in the occurrence of organic +remains in the strata along the banks of the Mississippi; a discovery +attributable to the more full exposure of these cliffs to observation. +There is also an apparent absence of the granulated, or sand-lime +variety. These two calcareous tracts are not, however, continuous, being +separated by a formation of granular quartz, or white crystalline +sandstone, which runs nearly parallel with the Mississippi for a +distance, a few miles west of it. This stratum of rock, which appears to +be rather a quartzose sandstone than a granular quartz, reappears west +of Potosi, in the barren area called the Pinery, and is also apparent at +several localities between the waters of the Maramec and the St. +Francis. + +At a point thirty miles west of the Mississippi, in about the latitude +of St. Genevieve, the primitive formation reveals itself in a series of +mountain masses of granite, which cover a comparatively extensive area. +This tract appears to be the nucleus of the country, rising through the +great secondary formations which intervene between the Alleghany and the +Rocky mountains. Its western limits have not yet been explored; but it +probably covers an area of not less than a hundred square miles. The +mines lie north of it. This granite is composed almost exclusively of +reddish feldspar and quartz. The proportion of mica is small, and this +mineral is often absent. It has been employed as a material for +millstones. It is connected with greenstone, which is sometimes +porphyritic. + +We have now three formations of rock, as constituting the mine series; +and it only remains to point out their relative position and extent, +with the best means at our command. This might seem to be a very simple +process, and would indeed be so, were it not that the area over which +the formations extend is extensive, and is covered with deep formations +of the diluvial and alluvial character, bearing a forest. The primitive +is immediately succeeded by the two latter. Mine a La Motte is situated +in the mineral diluvium, and is distant about two miles from the granite +on Blackford's fork. The first appearance of rock, in situ, north of +this point, is at Rock creek, a few miles distant, where the granular +quartzose sandstone appears. There is no further appearance of rock in +this direction for many miles. The white crystalline sand-caves of St. +Genevieve are seated in this formation. It is again disclosed on the +Platten creek, and in the elevations west of the Joachim creek, called +Fort Rock, and in the white sand-caves near Herculaneum. Whether it is +continued farther in the approach to the Maramec, cannot be stated; but +the line of country which is thus traversed by it, is probably sixty +miles. The only point where this rock appears on the banks of the +Mississippi, is in the range of the Cornice Rocks. + +Proceeding west across this formation, the mineral diluvium succeeds, +and conceals the rock formations; but, wherever they are disclosed by +the action of the streams, and by excavations, the metalliferous +limestone appears, which constitutes the lowest stratum yet found in the +mine region proper. But it is to be observed, that no excavations of any +considerable depth have been made; the rock has not been penetrated to +any great depth. The principal seat of the mines consists of the area +included within the circuits of the Grand river and Mineral Fork, +constituting the main tributaries of the Maramec. These streams extend +something in the shape of a horse-shoe around the mines. Immediately +west and south-west of this area, the white sandstone reappears, +extending south towards the granite. The position of the two formations +may be represented by a pair of expanded dividers, opening northward; +the two shanks of which denote the sandstone ridges, and the head, or +rivet, the primitive. + +The most valuable mineral products of the mines, in addition to lead, +are iron and salt; the latter of which is made, in limited quantities, +at a saline spring at Madansburgh, in the county of St. Genevieve. Other +indications of it exist at one or two localities in the township of +Bellevieu, and on the Maramec river, where efforts were formerly made to +manufacture salt. + +Iron-ores are found at numerous points; but no body of the ores of this +metal is known, comparable, in extent or value, to the locality of +Bellevieu, called the Iron Mountain. The ore exists, at this place, in a +very massive form. It is in the state of a micaceous oxide. It has been +tried in a slag furnace, and smelted easily, without a flux. The iron +obtained was of a very malleable quality, and spread freely under the +hammer. This locality is embraced by the waters of Cedar creek, which, +at the distance of seven miles, are stated to afford a water-power +adequate for the reduction and working of the ore. About five miles +distant, at Stout's settlement, occurs another body of this ore. + +Zinc is found, in the form of a sulphuret, in small quantities, at +several of the lead-mines in Washington county. A single mass of the +sulphuret of antimony has been discovered in the granitical district, +which affords also a locality of coarse graphite, and some other +minerals, which will be noticed in the sequel. + +A sulphur spring exists a few miles west of the Mississippi, in +Jefferson county. The water issues, in a copious stream, from an +aperture, situated near a cliff of the compact limestone. It is of a +bright, transparent quality, but indicates, by its taste, its +sulphureous impregnation, and deposits sulphur, in a whitish pulpy form, +on the pebble-stones and fallen vegetation of the brook which issues +from the spring. + +Topographically considered, the mine country is a hilly and uneven +tract, having a considerable elevation above the waters of the +Mississippi. It is well watered, with numerous springs, brooks, and +streams, and, from the prevalence of a firm diluvial soil, affords +facilities for roads. The climate is favorable to health. The manner in +which the smelting of the ores is performed, being in the open air, is +probably less injurious to those engaged in it, than if the furnaces +were enclosed with buildings. + +Some losses are sustained in the death of cattle, which die with a +disease called the mine sickness. Cows and horses, which are frequently +seen licking around old furnaces, often die without any apparent cause. +Cats and dogs are taken with violent fits, which never fail, in a short +time, to terminate their lives. This is usually attributed, by the +inhabitants, to the effects of sulphur, driven off from the ores in +smelting. It is more probable that it arises from the sulphurous acid in +its combination with barytes, which may operate as a poison to animals. +The sickness is wholly confined to quadrupeds.[16] + +The soil thrown out of the pits, at the abandoned mines, is found to +produce some plants, and even trees, which are not peculiar to the +surface. Such are the cotton-wood and the beech-grape, species which are +usually confined to the arenaceous alluvions of valleys. And we think +their growth here is not promoted by the mineral clay, which is +manifestly of a fertilizing property, when cast on the surface; but to +the disintegration of the sand-lime, producing a soil favorable to such +productions. The sensitive brier, observed in the mine district, is +evidently not of this class, as it is found remote from any mine +excavations. + + +SECTION III. + +LOCAL POSITION OF THE SEVERAL MINES. + +Since the first discovery of lead in this Territory, the number of mines +has been much increased, and hardly a season passes without some new +discovery. Every discovery of importance soon becomes the centre of +mining attraction. As the ore is found in the diluvial soil, it is +generally exhausted on reaching the solid rock; and after penetrating a +considerable area of the surface with any, or but partial success, the +locality is abandoned, and a new one sought. As the mines are worked +without capital, and the ore is dispersed over a wide area, the number +of localities is almost indefinite. Upwards of forty principal +sub-districts are known, most of which are appropriately denominated +_diggings_. The earliest discovery, at Mine a Burton, has been one of +the most valuable, and still continues to afford the ore. Mine a La +Motte has also proved an extensive deposit, and is still unexhausted. +New Diggings, Shibboleth, and Richwoods, are among the discoveries of +later date, which have yielded very large quantities of ore. But the +mode of mining in the diluvial soil must exhaust it of its mineral +contents, and direct miners, in after years, to the true position of the +ore, in the calcareous rock. So long as the search continues in the +soil, the business will partake of the uncertainty which now attends it, +and which renders it rather an object of temporary enterprise, than a +fixed employment. + +In the search for ore in the soil, scarcely any uniform principles can +be certainly relied on. Generally, rocky and barren localities are +avoided, and large and deep beds of the red metalliferous clay sought +for. The occurrence of crystallized quartz, or spars, on the surface, is +regarded only as a general indication, but cannot be depended on to +ensure local success. These masses are found to be distributed on and +through the top soil, as other debris, being sometimes contiguous to, +and sometimes remote from, ore. But they are never, so far as I have +observed, found with the ore. + +The method of searching for and raising the ore, is simple. Having fixed +on a spot for digging, the operator measures off about eight feet +square. A pick-axe and shovel are used for removing the earth. A +practised hand will pitch the earth from a depth of eight or ten feet. A +windlass and bucket are then placed over the pit, and the excavation +thus continued. Small detached masses of ore, or spars, are often found +in the soil, in approaching a larger body. The ore is the sulphuret, or +galena. It has a broad, glittering grain, and is readily divisible into +cubical fragments. It occurs in beds, or detached masses, which are +deposited horizontally in the soil. They are often accompanied by the +sulphate of barytes, or by calcareous spar; sometimes by blende, or iron +pyrites. The ore is often connected with the barytic spar, indicating +the latter to be a true matrix. The direction of these beds of ore +appears to be irregular. Veins of ore are confined to the rock. + +The variety of ore called _gravel ore_, differs from the preceding +chiefly by its marks of attrition, and connection with diluvial +pebble-stones. No spars have been noticed in these gravel-beds, although +it is probable that a careful search might detect them. + +The calcareous spar is most abundant in connection with rock diggings. +It is translucent, or transparent, and often exhibits the property of +double refraction. The miners, who employ their own conventional terms, +call this substance _glass tiff_, to distinguish it from the sulphate of +barytes, which is denominated _tiff_. Much of the radiated quartz of +this district bears the marks of diluvial action. It is not uncommon to +find masses of it, in which the angles of the crystals are quite +defaced. Veins of ore in the rock correspond generally, in their course, +I think, with the cardinal points, in the instances of their being +pursued horizontally. But they dip at various angles with the plain, or +sink perpendicularly into the rock. + +The horizontal position of the ore-beds in the red clay soil, may be +regarded as an evidence of its being a diluvial deposit. + +The metalliferous, red, marly clay, is, in fine, the most interesting +geological problem connected with the mines, and is calculated to show +us how little we know of the true eras of the diluvial deposits. After +every examination which we have been able to make, we are decidedly of +the opinion that this formation belongs to the diluvial, and not to the +alluvial era. It seems, indeed, to assert a claim to be considered, +among the western strata, as immediately succeeding the secondary. It +lies directly next to, and upon, the limestone rock. We have witnessed +the progress of an excavation on the public square of Potosi, in which +the soil was removed down to the rock, and a clean area of its surface +was exposed. There was no other stratum below it, and between the clay +and rock. And such we believe to be its general position. The radiated +quartz and pebble drift is above it, and, consequently, constitutes a +subsequent deposit. And hence it is that the numerous fragmentary masses +of the former, called _mineral blossom_, are no sure indications of the +subterraneous presence of ore. The gravel-ore and mixed diluvial gravel +is likewise a newer deposit, coinciding with the era of the primitive +and secondary boulders. No large primitive boulders, however, exist in +the mine district, if we except the angular fragments of granite, south +of St. Michael, which are, indeed, just without the lead-yielding area. +Pebbles of common quartz, granite, and greenstone, are found in the +surface soil, and are also to be observed, in accumulated masses, in the +beds of brooks. Occasionally an orbicular mass of these rocks, of the +size of a melon, is observed. It is evident, from these appearances, +that no formations of the primitive exist, towards the sources of the +Mississippi, for a great distance, as it is from this direction that +diluvial action appears to have been propagated. This clay soil is free +from boulders, and is of a homogeneous texture. It partakes, in its +qualities, so largely of marl, as to operate as a manure, on being +thrown out of the pits, and, after a few years, is covered with a very +rank growth of trees, vines, &c. This is a characteristic trait of the +locality of abandoned diggings. + +The following is a catalogue of the mines. It comprises those of most +note, which are now worked, or have been at some former period. + + 1. Mine a Burton. 24. Tapley's Diggings. + 2. Mine a Robino. 25. Lambert's Diggings. + 3. Mine a Martin. 26. Old Mines. + 4. New Diggings. 27. Mine Shibboleth. + 5. Citadel Diggings. 28. Elliot's Mines. + 6. Perry's Diggings. 29. Belle Fontaine. + 7. Hawkins's Mine. 30. Cannon's Mines. + 8. Rosebury's Mine. 31. Little Diggings. + 9. Austin's Shaft. 32. Becquet's Diggings. + 10. Jones's Shaft. 33. Mine Liberty. + 11. Rocky Diggings, (Prairie de Roche). 34. Renault's Mines. + 12. Gravelly Diggings. 35. Miller's Mine. + 13. Brushy-run Diggings. 36. Mine Silvers. + 14. Stricklin's Diggings. 37. Fourche a Courtois. + 15. Bibb's Diggings. 38. Pratt's Mine, Big river. + 16. Tebault's Diggings, (Pinery). 39. Lebaum's Mine, Richwoods. + 17. Mine Astraddle. 40. Mine a Joe, Flat river. + 18. Masson's Diggings, or Partney's. 41. Bryan's Mines, Hazel run. + 19. J. Scott's Diggings. 42. Dogget's Mine, Hazel run. + 20. T. Scott's Diggings. 43. Mine La Motte, St. Michael. + 21. Micheaux's Diggings. 44. Gray's Mine, Big river. + 22. Henry's Diggings. 45. M'Kain's Mine, Dry creek. + 23. Moreau's Diggings. + +The most noted mines are Mine a Burton, New Diggings, Shibboleth, +Richwoods, Old Mines, and the numerous mines on the waters of the +Mineral Fork of Grand river. Mine a La Motte, Mine a Joe, and Bryan's +Mines, are east and south of the principal group of mines in Washington +county, and at a considerable distance from them. A few general remarks +may be applied to all these mines. + +The mines possess one general character, although there are some +peculiarities which I shall hereafter mention. The ore is found in +detached pieces and solid masses, in beds, in red clay, accompanied by +sulphate of barytes, calcareous spar, blende, iron pyrites, and quartz. +The ore is of that kind called, by mineralogists, lead-glance, or +galena, and is the sulphuret of lead, of chemistry. As it is dug up or +quarried from the adhering spar, it presents a very rich appearance. It +has a broad, glittering grain, of a lead-gray colour, which passes into +a bluish shade. The ore is easily broken by the blow of a hammer, and +may be pounded to a fine powder, still preserving its glittering +appearance. In breaking it, it always separates in cubes. Sometimes +detached lumps of four or five pounds weight, of a cubical form, are +found imbedded in the clay. Its primitive figure of crystallization is +particularly observable after the ore has been desulphurated by heat, +which, at the same time, increases its splendor, and renders the lines +of intersection between the facets more plainly discoverable. + +The clay, or red earth, in which the ore is found, appears to partake +largely of marl; and a difference of quality is to be observed at the +different mines. It all, however, operates more or less as a stimulant +to vegetation, on being thrown out of the pits. Mixed with the clay are +innumerable pieces of radiated quartz, very beautiful in appearance. +This forms the first stratum, and is about fourteen inches in depth; +then succeeds a stratum of red clay, four or five feet thick, and +sparingly mixed with substances of the same kind; after this, a layer of +gravel and rounded pebbles, of a silicious character, ensues; these are +about a foot in depth, and lead-ore, in small detached lumps, is then +found. This is of the description called gravel-ore, and no spars are +found accompanying it. The greatest proportion of lead-ore is, however, +found imbedded in marly clay, accompanied by the sulphate of barytes, +and resting on limestone rock. The rock is struck at a depth of from +fifteen to twenty feet, and is a metalliferous limestone, of a +semi-crystalline structure, lying in horizontal beds. It is traversed by +veins of lead-ore. Sometimes these expand in the shape of caves, where +masses of galena occur. + +The most valuable substance accompanying the lead-ore, is an ore of +zinc, which is found at several of the mines. Another substance, found +with the ore in considerable quantities, is the sulphate of barytes. +This is sometimes in immediate connection with the ore, but more +frequently in contiguous masses, in the clay. + +The sulphate of barytes, called _tiff_ by the lead-diggers here, is the +same substance called _cawk_ by English miners. It is very white, +opaque, and very heavy, and may be considered as the proper matrix of +the lead-ore. + +There are also found considerable quantities of calcareous spar, +particularly in the caves and veins in rock. This substance is often +observed in large orbicular or irregular masses, which have the +appearance of external attrition. On breaking them, they fall into +rhombs, which are very transparent and glittering; in color, they are +either white, or honey-yellow. + +Pyrites are common at the mines, sometimes crystallized in regular cubes +of a beautiful brass-yellow color, and, at others, found in tabular +masses, or mixed with blende, sulphate of barytes, or calcareous spar. +Quartz is found throughout the whole mine district, both on the surface +of the ground, and at all depths below. It is generally in the form of +tabular pieces, whose surfaces are thickly studded over with small +pyramids of transparent rock-crystal, and present an appearance of the +utmost beauty and splendor, looking like so many diamonds set over the +surface of white stone. These crystals are frequently grouped in the +form of a hemisphere, circular, or oviform, solitary or in clusters, +forming the different varieties of mamillary and radiated quartz, and, +when met with in their pristine beauty, present a very rich and +brilliant appearance. It has acquired the popular name of _blossom of +lead_, or mineral blossom, a term perfectly significant of its supposed +affinity. + +The exterior stratum of red clay, with its ores and minerals, will be +best understood by comparing it to a garment thrown over the +rock-formations of the country. The search for ore has been generally +confined to these clay diggings, which are pursued, very much, with the +apparatus of common well-digging. If, on reaching the rock, no vein of +ore is discovered, the work is generally dropped. + +On viewing the district on a large scale, this external clay stratum +appears to have originally derived its mineral contents from veins in +the calcareous, lead-yielding rock. This metalliferous rock has +evidently, in former ages, been scooped out by rivers and streams, +forming valleys and vast diluvial plateaux, where the abraded materials +were deposited. The original subterranean veins were concealed by these +geological changes. + +Some of the mines exhibit traits that may be mentioned. Mine La Motte is +one of the oldest mines in the Territory, having been discovered in +1720, by the person whose name it bears. The mines are very extensive, +and a large quantity of ore is annually raised. They are situated within +two miles of St. Michael, Madison county, and on the head-waters of the +river St. Francois. No spars are found accompanying the ore; iron pyrite +is occasionally met with, and plumbago is found in the vicinity. The +ore, which is less brilliant, and differs in other characters from any +other in the mine tract, is at the same time more refractory; in some +instances, the greatest difficulties have been experienced in the +smelting. Hence, an idea has originated that it is combined with other +metals; but no experiments, I believe, have been made to ascertain this +point. + +On a visit to these mines, I observed the inside of the ash-furnace +beautifully tinged with a blue color of considerable intensity. This +furnace is built of a white sandstone, which becomes vitrified on the +surface, forming glass. We are acquainted with no substance which will +communicate a blue color to glass in fusion but cobalt; hence, it is not +unreasonable to infer that this metal is volatilized during the +smelting, and is thus brought into contact with the liquefied surface of +the stone, imparting to it the color noticed. That the ores of La Motte +contain an unusual portion of sulphur, is very probable. I draw this +inference both from its refractory nature and dull appearance. Sulphur +always renders an ore refractory; for, when it is expelled by +torrefaction, the ore melts easily. Its dull aspect is not less +conclusive; for, the more an ore is roasted, and the more sulphur there +is driven off, the brighter it grows. This is evident to every smelter, +who cannot fail to observe the surprising brilliancy the ore assumes +after it has gone through the first operation in the log furnace. That +the difficulties daily experienced in smelting the La Motte ores are, +therefore, attributable to the extraordinary quantity of sulphur they +contain, is extremely probable; for, even if they were united with other +metals, with silver or with cobalt, these would not increase their +infusibility, except by the extra quantum of sulphur they brought with +them. At least, we have no facts to prove that a simple alloy does not +melt as easily as a pure metal, while there are many to show that alloys +are of the most easy fusibility. + +The quantity of ore raised at New Diggings has been very great, a +regular vein having been found; but they were abandoned several years +ago on account of the water, which rushed in with such rapidity, that to +remove it every morning with a common windlass and bucket was found a +work of such labor as to render the business unprofitable. The mines +were left with the most flattering veins of ore in view. The general +character of these mines is such as to justify the erection of a +steam-engine, and other works for prosecuting the business on an +extensive scale; and their revival at some future period may be +confidently looked for. + +Mine Renault is situated about six miles north-north-west of Mine a +Burton, in a very rocky part of the country, which affords some of the +most picturesque views of mountain scenery. The region is strongly +marked by mineral appearances, rendering it probable that other +substances of value, besides lead, may exist in that vicinity. Ores of +zinc are abundant at this mine, and a body of micaceous oxide of iron is +found in the neighborhood. + +Bryan's Mines are seated on Hazel run, and are among the most recent +discoveries of consequence. Near a million pounds of lead were made here +during the first year of the discovery. The mine is characterized by +yielding no heavy spar; sometimes a little calcareous spar is found, and +then adhering to the ores; a circumstance which I have nowhere else +observed. Much of the ore of these mines is found in tabular pieces, +which are sonorous in a considerable degree; the ore is brilliant, and +smelts readily, yielding the same as at Mine a Burton. + +Gray's Mine, situated on Big river, in the northern extremity of the +mine tract, is remarkable for a body of white clay, which was discovered +in searching for ore. In sinking several pits at this mine, a stratum of +clay of an unusual appearance was struck at the depth of from eight to +ten feet, and no ore was procured at those places; the diggings were +abandoned in consequence of the clay, which covers a considerable area +of ground on the banks of Big river. This mineral substance bears a +striking resemblance to specimens of a pyrous crucible clay. + +Elliott's Mines lie upon the Mineral Fork, and are characterized by the +abundance of pyrites, and the beauty of the calcareous spar found there. +Considerable quantities of blende were also met with, and strong +indications of the existence of copper are furnished. During the +remarkable earthquakes of 1812, a fine spring of water at the mouth of +the mines suddenly became warm and foul, and in a few days dried up +entirely, and no water has run there since. Illuminations in the +atmosphere (arising doubtless from phosphorus) are frequently observed +in this vicinity on the approach of night. + +At Mine a Burton, there is found adhering to the sides of the log-hearth +furnace, a grayish-white sublimated matter, of great weight, which I +take to be a sublimate of lead. It is considered as chiefly sulphur or +arsenic by the lead-smelters, and is thrown by as useless. It is found +at every furnace, and a very large quantity could be annually collected. +This induced me to undertake some experiments on the subject. I was +convinced, on reflection, that there could be no sulphur, at least no +considerable quantity of sulphur, in it, from the fact that all sulphur, +or other inflammable matter, expelled from the ore in the furnace, would +undergo immediate combustion. This is also observable in the color of +the flame while the ore is torrified. Indeed, every person conversant +with the nature of this substance must know that it cannot be otherwise. +The furnace is entirely open, and does not rise over seven or eight feet +in height; consequently, there is no opportunity for it to condense. +That the sulphuric acid is driven off, is undoubted; for, whenever +sulphur is burned, this acid is set at liberty; but it has no +opportunity for entering into a new combination within the body of a log +furnace. + +The idea of arsenic in the substance alluded to, is perfectly erroneous, +and has originated in an ignorance of the nature of the ores of these +mines. It is the _sulphuret of lead_, and not the _arseniate_. That +there is a small portion of silver and antimony in combination with the +ore, is probable; but they too are mineralized by sulphur. Reflecting on +this, I became convinced of the popular error, and, to ascertain the +point, made the following experiments: + +A. I took a lump of the sublimated matter, freed from adhering +impurities, and reduced it to the state of a fine powder by pulverizing +in an agate mortar, and trituration. Of this I mixed six parts with four +of pulverized borax, and a little charcoal, and submitted it to the +intense heat of a small chemical furnace. On removing the crucible, I +found a button of metallic lead in the bottom, weighing nearly four. + +B. Dissolved a quantity of the powdered sublimate in nitric acid; it +effected a ready solution, with violent effervescence. Poured on liquid +carbonate of potash until no more precipitate fell. I then collected the +precipitate, and washed away the superfluous alkali by clear water, and +dried it in the shade. The result was a very fine, and a very white +powder, of considerable weight. This was a carbonate of lead (white +lead). With a quantity of the white lead thus made, I mixed linseed +oil, and painted a board. The color was of the most delicate white, and +it gave a good body. On inspecting this board several months afterwards, +I found the color inclining a little to yellowish. But perhaps it stands +as well as any white lead would, prepared from litharge, by solution in +nitric or acetic acids, and precipitation by carbonated alkali. + +C. Mixed eight parts of sublimate with twelve of muriate of soda, and +fused in a crucible, with a tight cover, in a high heat. Result, a +yellow, hard, heavy, vitrified mass, resembling muriate of soda and +lead. + +M'Kain's Mine is situated on a small stream called Dry creek, running +into Big river not far from its junction with the Maramec. The mine is +worthy of remark only on account of a body of steel-grained lead-ore +found there. This ore is found to yield less lead in smelting than the +common broad-grained ore, and, as may be inferred from its texture, +contains silver. + +So little has been done, of late years, in mining in the rock, that the +character of the veins must be judged of from limited facts. But there +can be no question, from what is known, that the true scene of mining +operations is the rock. + +Along the west banks of the Mississippi, and also in some of the +interior valleys, we observe that the metal-bearing limestone rests on +crystalline sandstone. Both preserve a horizontal position, and both are +deposited, at the distance of about seventy miles south of Potosi, upon +pre-existing formations of sienitic granite, embracing hornblende rock; +some of the latter of which is porphyritic. + +These primitive formations mark the geography of the country at the +sources of the St. Francis. They form alpine peaks, through which the +river forces its way. Mine a La Motte is within two miles east of this +tract. These peaks have been raised to their present position without +disturbing the horizontality of the limestones and sandstones. Hence the +conclusion of their prior elevation. + +At a still further southern point, and before reaching the banks of the +St. Francis at Bettis's ferry, the horizontal rocks again appear. But, +in this instance, sienitic and granitic boulders are scattered over the +southern series of the calcareous strata, showing, with equal clearness, +that the geological era of the boulder stratum was posterior to the +deposition of the horizontal strata, and that the force which scattered +the boulder stratum was from the north. + + +SECTION IV. + +METHOD OF WORKING THE MINES. + +The method of raising the ores, and the processes pursued in separating +the metal, are, upon the whole, extremely simple. A pick-axe and shovel +are the only tools in use for removing the earth; and the drill, rammer, +and priming-rod, are added when it is necessary to blast. Having +determined on the spot for digging, the process commences by measuring +off a square of about eight feet, and throwing out the earth, spar, and +gravel, until the miner sinks beneath the depth he can throw the earth. +An expert hand will pitch his earth clear out of the pit from a depth of +ten, twelve, and even fifteen feet. At this depth a common windlass and +bucket are placed over the centre of the pit, and the digging continued +by drawing up the earth, spar, and ores, if any are found, in the manner +pursued in sinking a well. During his progress, the miner is notified of +his approach to a body of ore, by small detached lumps occasionally +found imbedded in the soil, within a few feet of the surface. Sometimes +lumps on the top of the ground determine on the place for digging. The +spar is also a sign by which he judges, as there is seldom a body of +spar found without lead-ore. There are also other signs by which an +experienced digger is advertised of his prospects, and encouraged to +proceed with cheerfulness in his work. These are, peculiar appearances +in the texture of the spar, and sometimes minute specks of ore scattered +through it, the changes in the color, and other qualities of the earth, +gravel, &c. If these appearances are promising, and bits of ore are +occasionally met with, he is encouraged to sink down a great depth; but +if they should fail, he is generally induced to abandon the pit, and +commence at another place. + +In searching for ore, the soil, the slope of the hills, spar, blossom, +trees, &c., are taken as guides, and some are obstinately attached to +these signs. Others, who have been fortunate in finding ore where these +appearances were least promising, wholly disregard them, and pay no +attention to rules. In general, there is a greater disposition to trust +to luck and chance, and stumble upon ore, than by attending to mineral +character, to be sure of success. As those who search by rules are +generally incapable of those minute remarks on the distinguishing +character and geological situation of minerals, which are necessary in +order to ensure success, it frequently happens that they meet with +disappointments. An incident of this kind is enough to perplex a man who +has not habituated himself to reasoning on the subject, and to weaken +his belief in the affinity of ores and stones. Such a man will not stop +to compare and reconcile facts, which are seemingly opposite, or to +investigate the nature of general principles. + +Hence miners exclaim on the uncertainty of finding ores by rules drawn +from the observations of science; that the strata of the earth are +irregular, and not to be depended upon like the rock formations in +Europe; and that, in fine, we have no guides by which its mineral +treasures are to be sought, and that, in so confused a soil, chance is +the best guide. Such a man is more ready to follow the mysterious +guidance of the divining-rod than the light of reason, and would be +easily persuaded that fortune is more surely the result of blind chance, +than of feasible schemes, well planned and well executed. + +There would be, nevertheless, some truth in the uncertainties and the +confusion complained of, were those circumstances among the observations +of scientific men. But it will be hazarding little to say, that when +such observations are made, there will be found as much regularity, +harmony, and order, in the superposition of the strata, as generally +exist. The few facts I have noticed, lead to this conclusion. + +Having raised a sufficient quantity of ore for smelting, the next +process consists in separating the spar, and cleaning the ore from all +extraneous matter. This is done by small picks, tapered down to such a +point that a careful hand may detach the smallest particle of adhering +spar. It is necessary that the ore should be well cleaned, as it would +otherwise prove refractory in smelting. If there be any lumps of +uncommon size, they are beaten smaller. The object is to bring the lumps +as near as may be to an uniform size, so that the heat may operate +equally in desulphurating the ore. It is desirable that the lumps should +be about the size of a man's two fists, or perhaps fifteen pounds' +weight; if too small, a difficulty and a waste is experienced in +smelting. In this state, the ore is conveyed to the primary furnace, +(see Plate I.) and piled on the logs prepared for its reception. When +the charge is put in, which may in a common way be about five thousand +pounds, it is surrounded by logs of wood, and covered over at the top, +the fire being lit up at the mouth below. A gentle warmth is created at +first, which is raised very gradually, and kept at this point for about +twelve hours, to allow the sulphur to dissipate; the heat is then +increased for the purpose of smelting the ore, and, in twelve hours +more, the operation is completed, and the lead obtained. Wood is +occasionally added as the process goes on, and there is a practical +nicety required in keeping the furnace in proper order, regulating the +draught of air, &c., so that some smelters are much more expert, and +thereby extract a greater quantity of lead from a like body of ore, than +others. This furnace is called the log furnace, and, so far as I know, +is peculiar to this country. It is of a very simple construction, +consisting of an inclined hearth, surrounded by walls on three sides, +open at top, and with an arch for the admission of air below. Upon the +whole, it appears well adapted to the present situation and +circumstances of the people. It is cheap, simple, may be built at almost +any place, and answers the purpose very well. A good furnace of this +kind may be built at a cost of from fifty to sixty dollars, every +expense considered; and one of the most considerable items in the sum +total is the bill of the mason, who cannot be hired, in this region, to +work for less than two dollars per day. + +Plate I., Figure 1. _A Perspective View of the Log Furnace._ + +a, the front wall, 8 feet long, 7 feet in height, and 2 feet in +thickness. + +b b, the side walls, 8 feet long, and 2 feet thick. + +c, the hearth, 2 feet wide, and 8 feet in length. + +d d, the ledges on each side of the hearth, 10 inches in height, and 1 +foot wide. These serve to elevate the logs above the hearth, at the same +time creating a draught for the air, and passage for the lead. + +e, the eye of the furnace, or arch, 2 feet across at bottom, with an +arch thrown in a half circle, or a flat stone laid across at the height +of the ledges. + +f, the iron ladle for dipping out the melted lead. + +g, the iron mould. Every bar of lead cast in this, is called a _pig_. + +h, the hole in the ground, for the reception of the lead as it runs from +the furnace. + +Figure 2, is a perspective view of the furnace from the back or open +part. The same letters used in Figure 1 apply to the same parts of the +furnace in this figure. + + Figure 3. _Ground Plan._ + + _a_, the eye or arch in front. + _b b_, the side walls. + _c_, the hearth. + _d d_, the ledges. + + [Illustration: _Log Hearth Furnace_ + No. 1. + _For Smelting Lead Ore_] + +The process of charging the furnace may be mentioned. Three large oak +logs, rolled in from the back side, and resting at each end on these +ledges, fill up the width of the furnace; small split logs are then set +up all around on the two sides and front; the ore is then piled on until +the furnace is full, and logs are then piled over it, beginning at the +back, and continuing over to the front, so that the ore is completely +surrounded by wood. This furnace is always built on the slope of a hill, +as represented in Plate I., Fig. 1; and the hearth is laid on an angle +of 45 deg., so that it falls four feet in a distance of eight. Two furnaces +of the size here described are generally built together, by which there +is a saving of the expense of one wall, and the work is rendered +stronger, one serving as a support to the other. Not only so, but the +same number of hands will keep a double-eyed furnace in blast, which are +required at a single one. It takes three hands, one to cart wood during +the day-time, and the other two to relieve each other alternately, every +twelve hours, at the furnace. When a charge is melted off, the furnace +is cooled, new logs and upright pieces put in, and the whole +operation begun anew. Twenty-four hours is the time generally allotted +for each smelting, but it often takes thirty-six; and when there is bad +wood and want of attention, it requires still longer, and indeed the +result is never so good. + +The ore is estimated to yield, in the large way, fifty per cent. the +first smelting. A considerable portion of what is put in, however, does +not become completely desulphurated, and is found in the bottom of the +furnace after cooling. This is chiefly the smallest lumps, which have +fallen through the apertures that burn between the logs, before they +were thoroughly roasted, and thus, getting out of the way of the heat, +lie entangled with the ashes. Some lumps, which are too large, also +escape complete desulphuration, and either remain unmelted, or else, +when the fire is raised, melt altogether into a kind of slag, and +produce little or no metallic lead. This constitutes what are called the +lead-ashes. The larger pieces, consisting of ore but partially +desulphurated, are carefully picked out from among the ashes, and added +at the next smelting in the log furnace; while the remainder is thrown +by in heaps for further examination. + +The lead-ashes are still rich in lead, and, when a sufficient quantity +has accumulated from repeated smeltings, it is taken off to a proper +place contrived for the purpose, and separated from the cinders, +wood-ashes, and other adhering impurities. This is done by washing the +whole in _buddles_, one set below another, in the manner of the potter, +when it is necessary to _search_ his clays. The ashes, which consist of +clotted lumps of a moderate hardness, are first pounded to a gross +powder, and then introduced into the water through a sieve. The +wood-ashes and other impurities, being lighter, swim on the top, and, by +letting off the water, are thus carried away. Fresh water is added, the +ashes briskly stirred with a hoe, and the water again let off, carrying +a further portion of impurity with it. By repeating this operation +several times, the lead-ashes are brought to the required degree of +purity. Thus washed, they are carried to a furnace of a different +construction, called the ash furnace (see Plate II.), and undergo a +second smelting. + + +Plate II., Figure 1. _A Perspective View of the Ash Furnace._ + +_a_, the ash-pit, 2 feet wide, 6 feet long, and 20 inches in height. + +_b_, the mouth of the fire-arch, a foot square. + +_c_, the mouth of the flue, where the charge is put in. + +_d_, the iron pot for the lead to flow in, when the furnace is tapped. + +Figure 2, is a longitudinal section through the furnace, at right angles +with the front, showing the curve of the arch, flue, &c. + +_a_, the ash-pit. + +_b_, the grates, 10 inches square, and 3 feet long; these are pieces of +hewn stone. + +_c_, the mouth of the fire-arch. + +_d_, the _santee_, consisting of two stones, 3 feet long, and 3 feet 6 +inches wide, with a thickness of 6 or 7 inches. They reach from the +bottom of the ash-pit to a foot above the basin-stone, the interstice +between them being rammed full of clay, and the whole measuring 18 +inches across. (This keeps the lead, slag, &c., from running into the +fire-arch, and is an important part of the furnace, requiring +considerable skill and accuracy in the construction.) + +_e_, the basin-stone, 4 feet square, and 1 foot thick. + +_f_, the flue, or throat, 10 feet long, 22 inches wide, and 11 inches in +height. This must be continued a foot and a half over the mouth of the +flue, or apron, making the whole length eleven and a half feet; some +prefer the flue twelve and a half feet. + +_g_, the mouth of the flue or apron, where the furnace is charged; this +flares from 22 inches to 3 feet, in a distance of 3 feet, (as shown in +Fig. 3.) + +_h_, the fire-arch, 3 feet high in the centre, 18 inches high where the +arch begins to spring, and the same over the centre of the basin-stone. + + +Figure 3. _Ground Plan._ + +From _a_ to _b_, 8 feet; from _b_ to _c_, 8 feet 6 inches; from _a_ to +_d_, 8 feet 6 inches; from _e_ to _f_, 6 feet; from _e_ to _g_, 13 feet. + +_h_, the basin, 4 feet long, and 22 inches wide, except in the centre, +where it is 24 inches wide. + +_i_, the flue. + +_k_, the mouth of the flue, or apron, 3 feet at the front, and 22 inches +in the rear. + +_l_, the santee. + +_m_, the fire-arch, with grates at bottom. (This is 22 inches wide at +each end, 24 inches in the centre, and 5 feet long from the inside of +its mouth to the santee.) + +_n_, the mouth of the fire-arch. + +_o_, the iron pot for the lead to flow into, set in the curve made in +the wall for convenience of tapping. + +_p_, the curve in the wall for drawing off the slag. + +Figure 4, is a perspective view of the mouth of the flue where the +furnace is charged. + +From _a_ to _b_, 6 feet; from _a_ to _c_, 5 feet; from _a_ to _d_, 1 +foot. + +_c_, the mouth of the flue, 22 inches wide, and 11 high. (This flares +out to 3 feet in the distance of 3 feet, the flue covering half of it, +so that the heat may be thrown down on the ashes.) + + [Illustration: _Ash Furnace_ + No. 2 + _For Smelting Lead Ashes. Missouri._ + Fig. I. Fig. II. Fig. III. Fig. IV.] + +One of the principal points to be attended to in building an ash-furnace +is the elevation of the flue. It should rise 5-1/2 feet in 10; some +prefer 5-1/2 in 11. If the ascent be too steep, the ore will run down +into the basin before it gets hot, which is detrimental. If the +ascent be too low, the bottom of the flue next to the basin will soon be +eaten away by the heat, and thus in a short time undermine and destroy +the furnace. + +The flux employed is also a matter of moment. Sand, and pulverized +flinty gravel, are mixed with the lead-ashes before smelting. The object +of this is to promote the vitrification of the slag, which would +otherwise remain stiff; the particles of revived lead would not sink +through to the bottom, but remain entangled with it, and thus be lost. +Lime is also sometimes employed for the same purpose; and indeed any +earth would operate as a flux to the scoriaceous part of the lead-ashes, +if added in a due proportion, particularly the alkaline earths. Lime and +barytes, both of which are afforded in plenty at the mines, might +therefore be advantageously employed, when no sand or easy-melting +silicious gravel could be obtained. Good fusible sands are readily +attacked and liquefied by submitting to heat with oxides of lead, +alkaline salts, or any other alkaline or metallic flux; hence their +extreme utility in glass, enamels, and all other vitrescent mixtures. +When, therefore, silicious sand can be obtained, it will be found a more +powerful flux to lead-ashes than either gravel, lime, spars, or any +other substance, if we except the fluor spar. This is probably better +adapted as a flux than even silicious sands; but it has not yet been +brought to light at the lead-mines. Perhaps the lower strata of the +earth may afford it. It is found at a lead-mine near Cave-in-Rock, on +the right bank of the Ohio river, in the State of Illinois, and, with +the exception of a little found at Northampton, Massachusetts, is the +only place where this rare, useful, and beautiful mineral, occurs in the +United States.[17] + +The situation for an ash-furnace is always chosen on the declivity of a +hill, as represented in the plate. The inside work, or lining, consists +of slabs of hewn limestone, laid in clay-mortar, and backed by solid +masonry. Although a stone less adapted for furnaces could hardly be +found, yet it is made here to answer the purpose, and is an evidence of +the ingenuity of men in making a bad material answer when a good one +cannot be found. No sandstone or freestone, of that refractory kind +used in glass and iron furnaces, is afforded in this vicinity; and the +smelters seem to prefer rebuilding their furnaces often, to incurring +the expense of transporting good infusible sandstones from a distance. +It is not perhaps duly considered, that a furnace built of refractory +materials, although expensive in the erection, would be sufficiently +durable to warrant that expense, and outlast several built of limestone, +which burn out every blast, and have to be rebuilt from the foundation. + +Limestone is a combination of the pure earth _lime_ with _carbonic acid_ +and _water_; it is a carbonate of lime. When subjected to a red heat, it +parts with its carbonic acid and water, and, if the operation be +continued long enough, is converted into quicklime. This effect, +therefore, takes place as well in the lead-furnace as in the limekiln, +and with this difference only--that in the former it is laid in a wall, +protected in some degree from the heat, and will not part with its +carbonic acid readily; while in the latter it is broken into +comparatively small lumps, exposed to the heat on all sides, and is +easily and readily converted into quicklime. + +Nevertheless, although this calcination is constantly progressing, an +ash-furnace will last from fifteen to twenty days, according to the +skill which has been displayed in its construction, and the particular +quality of the stone employed. When the stone partakes of clay +(alumina), it runs into a variety of argillaceous limestone, and is +manifestly better adapted to resist the effects of fire. Whenever the +furnace is cooled, so that the stone can attract moisture from the +atmosphere, it falls into quicklime. This change does not, however, take +place rapidly; for the burning has seldom been uniform, and the stones +have either been over-burned, or not burned enough; so that it requires +several days, and even weeks, to assume the powdery state. + +An ash-furnace, built of limestone, is estimated to cost a hundred +dollars. This includes every expense, and such a furnace lasts during +one blast, say fifteen or twenty days; perhaps, with great care, it will +run a month. During this time, from sixty to ninety thousand pounds of +lead ought to be made. + +When a furnace is completed, it requires several days to dry it, and +bring it to the proper state for smelting. About ten days are usually +spent in this. The fire is begun very moderately at first, being only +the warmth of a hot smoke, and is kept so for the first five days, by +which means the moisture of the mortar and stone is gradually expelled, +and without any danger of cracking the stone, or otherwise injuring the +furnace. It is then raised a little every day until the furnace is +brought up to a full red heat, when it is ready for the first charge of +ashes. + +The operation begins by shovelling a layer of ashes on the mouth of the +flue, then adding a thin layer of sand or flinty gravel as a flux, and +then more ashes; and so adding gravel and ashes alternately, until the +required quantity is shovelled up. This is suffered to lie here and grow +thoroughly hot before it is shoved down the flue into the basin; for, +if introduced cold, it would check the heat too suddenly, and prove +injurious in the result. When hot, the charge is shoved down the flue +with a long-handled iron hoe, and another portion of ashes and gravel +immediately shovelled on the mouth, suffered to heat, and then pushed +down as before. This operation of heating and charging is continued +until the furnace has a full charge, which may require about six hours, +and in two hours more the furnace is ready for tapping. The slag, which +is in a very fluid state on the top of the lead, is first drawn off, and +the aperture closed up with stone and mortar. The smelter then goes to +the opposite side of the furnace, and prepares for drawing off the lead +by driving a stout sharp pointed iron bar through the side of the +furnace, at a particular place contrived for this purpose. On removing +the bar, the metallic lead flows out into a large iron pot set in the +ground, and accompanied by a considerable quantity of a semi-metallic +substance, called _zane_. This is lead not perfectly revived, being +combined with some earthy particles, and oxide of lead. The zane +occupies the top of the pot, and is first ladled out into hemispherical +holes dug in the clay near by. This substance is of the consistence of +the prepared sand used by brass-founders when hot, but acquires +considerable solidity when cold. The metallic lead is then ladled into +iron moulds of about eighteen inches in length, and yielding a pig of +lead of about fifty pounds each. The quantity of zane made at each +tapping is about equal to that of metallic lead. This is afterwards +taken to the log furnace, and readily converted into lead. The lead made +at the ash-furnace is not thought to be of so pure a quality as that of +the first smelting made at the log furnace. It undoubtedly contains any +other metals that may be combined with the ore, and is therefore more +refractory. Such lead is thought to be a little harder, and some pretend +to discover a lighter color. + +The lead-ashes are reckoned to yield fifteen per cent. of lead (zane and +all), which, added to the first smelting, makes an average product of +sixty-five per cent. This estimate will hold good uniformly, when the +ores have been properly dressed, and the smelting well performed. Any +spar adhering to the ore, renders it refractory; blende and pyrites have +the same effect. The latter is particularly injurious, as it consists +chiefly of sulphur; a substance known to render all ores refractory. + +The slag created by the ash-furnace is a heavy, black, glassy substance, +well melted, and still containing a portion of lead. Some attempts have +been made to obtain a further portion of lead from it, by smelting with +charcoal in a blast-furnace; but the undertaking has not been attended +with complete success, and is not generally thought to warrant the +expense. The per centage of lead recovered from the slag is not +estimated at over ten, and, with the utmost success, cannot be reckoned +to exceed twelve. + +Some practical and miscellaneous observations may here be added. +Metallic lead in the pig is now (Feb. 1819) worth $4 per cwt. at the +mines. It sells for $4 50 on the banks of the Mississippi, at St. +Genevieve and Herculaneum; for $5 50 in New Orleans; and is quoted at $6 +in Philadelphia. This is lower than has ever been known before, (except +at one period,) and a consequent depression in the mining business is +felt. There is a governmental duty of one cent per pound on all bar and +pig lead imported into the United States; but it does not amount to a +prohibition of foreign lead from our markets. Perhaps such a prohibition +might be deemed expedient. It is what the lead-smelters here call for; +and certainly the resources of this country are very ample, not only for +supplying the domestic consumption, but for exportation. + +Those who dig the ore do not always smelt it. The merchants are +generally the smelters, and either employ their own slaves in raising +the ore, or pay a stipulated price per cwt. to those who choose to dig. +For every hundred pounds of ore, properly cleaned, the digger receives +two dollars. He works on his own account, and runs the risk of finding +ore. It is estimated that an ordinary hand will raise a hundredweight +per day, on an average of a year together. This, however, depends much +upon luck; sometimes a vast body is fallen upon, with a few hours' +labor; at others, many weeks are spent without finding any. He who +perseveres will, however, generally succeed; and the labor bestowed upon +the most unpromising mine, is never wholly lost. The above average has +been made by those long conversant with the business, and upon a full +consideration of all risks. + +Custom has established a number of laws among the miners, with regard to +digging, which have a tendency to prevent disputes. Whenever a discovery +is made, the person making it is entitled to claim the ground for +twenty-five feet in every direction from his pit, giving him fifty feet +square. Other diggers are each entitled to twelve feet square, which is +just enough to sink a pit, and afford room for throwing out the earth. +Each one measures and stakes off his ground, and, though he should not +begin to work for several days afterwards, no person will intrude upon +it. On this spot he digs down, but is not allowed to run drifts +horizontally, so as to break into or undermine the pits of others. If +appearances are unpromising, or he strikes the rock, and chooses to +abandon his pit, he can go on any unoccupied ground, and, observing the +same precautions, begin anew. In such a case, the abandoned pit may be +occupied by any other person; and sometimes large bodies of ore are +found by the second occupant, by a little work, which would have richly +rewarded the labors of the first, had he persevered. + +In digging down from fifteen to twenty feet, the rock is generally +struck; and as the signs of ore frequently give out on coming to the +rock, many of the pits are carried no further. This rock is invariably +limestone, though there are many varieties of it, the texture varying +from very hard and compact, to soft and friable. The former is +considered by the diggers as a flinty stone; the latter is called +rotten limestone; and, from its crumbling between the fingers, and +falling into grains, there is a variety of it called sandstone. It is +all, however, a calcareous carbonate, will burn into quicklime, and, as +I find on experiment, is completely soluble in nitric acid. As no +remains or impressions of shells, animalculae, or other traces of animal +life, are to be found in it, I conclude it to be what geologists term +metalliferous limestone; a conclusion which is strengthened by its +semi-crystalline fracture. It exhibits regular stratification, being +always found in horizontal masses. How far this formation extends, it +would be difficult to determine; but, so far as my observation goes, it +is invariably the basis on which the mineral soil at Mine a Burton, and +the numerous mines in its vicinity, reposes. It is overlaid by secondary +limestone in various places on the banks of the Mississippi, between +Cape Girardeau and St. Louis. It is also seen passing into a variety of +secondary marble, in several localities. I have seen no specimens of +this mineral, however, which can be considered as a valuable material in +sculpture. + +I have already mentioned the per centage of lead obtained by smelting in +the large way. I shall here add the result of an assay made on the ore. +One hundred parts of ore yielded as follows: + + Metallic lead 82 + Sulphur driven off by torrefaction 11 + Earthy matter, and further portion of sulphur, + either combined with the scoria, or driven off + by heat 7 by estimation. + --- + 100 + +The ore experimented upon was the common ore of Mine a Burton, (galena.) +I took a lump of the purest ore, completely freed from all sparry and +other extraneous matter, beat it into a very gross powder, and roasted +for an hour and a half in a moderate heat, with frequent stirring. On +weighing the mass, it had lost 11 of sulphur. I now beat this to a very +fine powder, and treated it with a strong flux of nitre and dry +carbonate of soda, adding some iron filings to absorb the last portions +of sulphur. The whole was enclosed in a good Hessian crucible, +previously smeared with charcoal, with a luted cover, and exposed for +twenty minutes to the high heat of a small chemical blast-furnace. + +The richest species of galena, of which we have any account, is that of +Durham, England. An analysis of a specimen of this ore by Dr. Thompson, +gave the following result: + + Lead 85 13 + Sulphur 13 02 + Oxide of iron 0 5 + ----- + 98 65 + +Many of the English, and nearly all the German ores, are, however, much +poorer. Of five several experiments made by Vauquelin on ores from +different mines in Germany, sixty-five per cent. of lead was the +richest, and all were united with uncommon portions of carbonated lime +and silex. + +The button of metallic lead found at the bottom of the crucible in +chemical assays, contains also the silver, and other metals, if any +should be present in the ore. So also, in smelting in the large way, the +metallic lead is always united with the other metals. When ores of lead +contain any considerable portion of silver, they assume a fine steel +grain; and the crystals, which are smaller than in common galena, +oftener affect the octahedral, than the cubical figure. They are also +harder to melt; and the lead obtained is not of so soft and malleable a +nature as that procured from the broad-grained, easy-melting ore. + +The proportion of silver in lead varies greatly. It is sometimes found +to yield as high as twelve per cent., and is then called argentiferous +lead-glance; but, in the poorest ores, it does not yield more than one +ounce out of three hundred. To separate the silver from the lead, a +process is pursued called the refining of lead, or cupellation. This is +effected by exposing the lead to a moderate heat in a cupel, and +removing the oxide as soon as it forms on the surface, until the whole +is calcined, leaving the silver in the bottom of the cupel. The lead in +this process is converted into litharge, the well-known substance of +commerce; and the silver is afterwards refined by a second process, in +which the last portions of lead are entirely got rid of. This process is +known at the German refineries under the name of _silber brennen_, +burning silver. + +The rationale of cupellation is simply this. Lead on exposure to heat, +with access of air, is covered by a thin pellicle or scum, called an +oxide; and by removing this, another is formed; and so, by continuing to +take off the oxide, the whole quantity of lead is converted into an +oxide. It is called an oxide, because it is a combination of lead with +oxygen (one of the principles of air and of water.) By this combination, +an increase of weight takes place, so that a hundred pounds of bar-lead, +converted into the state of an oxide, will weigh as much over a hundred, +as the weight of the oxygen which it has attracted from the atmosphere. +Silver, however, on being exposed to heat in the same situation, cannot +be converted into an oxide; it has no attractive power for oxygen. +Hence, when this metal is contained in a bar of lead, the lead only is +oxygenated on exposure in a cupel; whilst the silver remains unaltered, +but constantly concentrating and sinking, till the lead is all calcined. +This is known, to a practised eye, by the increased splendor assumed by +the metal. + +I do not think the ore of Mine a Burton contains a sufficient quantity +of silver to render the separation an object. This is to be inferred +from its mineralogical character, from the mathematical figure and size +of the crystal, its color, splendor, &c. The territory is not, however, +it is believed, deficient in ores which are valuable for the silver they +contain. The head of White river, the Arkansas, the Maramec, and +Strawberry rivers, all afford ores of lead, the appearance of which +leads us to conclude they may yield silver in considerable quantity. + + +SECTION V. + +ANNUAL PRODUCT, AND NUMBER OF HANDS EMPLOYED. + +On this head, it is very difficult to procure proper information. The +desultory manner in which the mines have been wrought, and the imperfect +method in which accounts have been kept, when kept at all, with other +circumstances, which are in some measure incidental to the operations of +mining in a new country, oppose so many obstacles in the way of +obtaining the desired information, that I find it impossible to present +a correct statement, from authentic sources, of the annual product of +the mines for any series of years. When Louisiana was first occupied by +the United States, Mine a Burton and Mine La Motte were the principal +mines wrought; but the few Americans who had emigrated into the +territory, under the Spanish government, were fully aware of the +advantages to be derived from the smelting of lead, and, united to the +emigrant population which shortly succeeded, made many new discoveries, +and the business was prosecuted with increased vigor, and to a much +greater extent. The interior parts of the country, and such as had +before been deemed dangerous on account of the Indians, were now eagerly +explored; and the fortunate discovery of several immense bodies of ore +near the surface of the ground, whereby the discoverers enriched +themselves by a few days' labor, had a tendency greatly to increase the +fame of the mines, and the number of miners. But, as generally happens +in new countries, among the number of emigrants were several desperate +adventurers, and men of the most abandoned character. Hence, the mines +soon became the scene of every disorder, depravity, and crime, and a +common rendezvous for renegadoes of all parts. It is by such persons +that many of the mines were discovered, and several of them wrought; and +it is, therefore, no subject of surprise, that, on inquiry, no accounts +of the quantity of lead made, and the number of hands employed, are to +be found. + +To secure the public interest, and remedy, in some degree, the +irregularities practised at the mines, a law was passed in Congress, a +few years after the cession of Louisiana, reserving all lead-mines, +salt-springs, &c., which should be discovered on the public lands, +subsequent to that period; and the Governor of the Territory was, at the +same time, authorized to grant leases to discoverers for three years. +The great defect of that law appears always to have been, that a +specific agent was not at the same time authorized to be appointed for +the general superintendence, inspection, and management of mines--an +office which, from its nature, can never be properly incorporated with +that of the territorial executive, and which, with every inclination, it +is presumed his other avocations would prevent him from discharging +either with usefulness to the public, or satisfaction to himself. But, +whatever be the defect of the law, certainly the advantages which the +government proposed to derive from it have not accrued. No revenue, it +is understood, has yet been realized under it, and we are now as much at +a loss how to arrive at a true statement of the mineral product of +Missouri, as if the mines had never been a subject of governmental +legislation. + +When a discovery of lead has been made, the miners from the neighboring +country have flocked to it, and commenced digging as usual, no one +troubling himself about a lease; and thus the provisions of the act have +been in a great measure disregarded. Men of respectability, and of +sufficient capital to carry on mining in a systematic manner, have, it +is believed, been frequently deterred from making applications for +leases, from the short period for which only they can be granted. It +would not warrant the expense of sinking shafts, erecting permanent +furnaces, galleries, and other works necessary for prosecuting the +business to advantage; for, no sooner would such works be erected, and +the mines begin to be effectually wrought, than the expiration of the +lease would throw them into the hands of some more successful applicant. + +But, although we have no data to form an authenticated schedule of the +annual product of the mines for any required number of years, there is +something to be obtained by collecting and comparing facts, detached and +scanty as they are. Something also is to be acquired by consulting the +books which have been kept of late years in the warehouses on the +Mississippi, where the lead is sent for exportation, and some +information is also to be gleaned from various other sources. It is from +information thus obtained that I proceed to an enumeration of the +products of the different mines, and the number of persons to whom they +furnish employment and support, satisfied, at the same time, that +although the information may not be all that could be desired, yet it is +all which, without the most extraordinary exertions, could be obtained. + +The amount of crude ore delivered at the furnaces of Mine Shibboleth, +during one of its most productive years (1811), was something rising of +5,000,000 of pounds. The ore of this mine is estimated to yield, in the +large way, from 60 to 70 per cent., reckoned at 62-1/2, which is +probably a fair average. The product of the mine in 1811 was 3,125,000 +pounds. Shibboleth is, however, one of the richest mines in the +Territory, and this is the product of one of those years in which it was +most profitably worked. It was then a new discovery, vast bodies of ore +were found near the surface, and the number of miners drawn together by +the fame of its riches was uncommonly great. It has since declined, +although the ore is still constantly found; and I am informed by Colonel +Smith, the present proprietor, that the product this year (1819) will be +about one million of pounds. + +The number of persons employed in digging lead at Mine a Burton has been +constantly lessening for the last four or five years; and this +celebrated mine, which has been worked without interruption for more +than forty years, and is stated to have yielded as high as three +millions per annum, is manifestly in a state of decline. During the last +summer (1818), the greater part of which I resided at that place, there +were not more than thirty miners employed; and the total product of the +different pits, shafts, and diggings, composing this mine, did not +exceed half a million of pounds. Of this quantity, Messrs. Samuel Perry +& Co. were the manufacturers of about 300,000 lbs. They contemplate +realizing an increased quantity during the present year. John Rice +Jones, Esq., is also engaged in penetrating the rock in search of ore, +with the most flattering prospects, and is determined, as he informs me, +to sink through the upper stratum of limestone, and ascertain the +character of the succeeding formations. It is highly probable, reasoning +from geognostic relations, that the lower formations will prove +metalliferous, yielding both lead and copper; a discovery which would +form a new era in the history of those mines. The present mode of +promiscuous digging on the surface would then be abandoned, and people +made to see and to realize the advantages of the only system of mining +which can be permanently, uniformly, and successfully pursued, viz., by +penetrating into the bowels of the earth. + +Several other persons of intelligence and capital are also engaged in +mining at this place, and it is probable that the total amount of lead +manufactured at this mine during the year 1819 will fall little short of +one million of pounds. + +It is not to be inferred, however, that because the number of miners at +Potosi has decreased, the mines are exhausted. On the contrary, there is +reason to conclude, as already mentioned, that the principal bodies of +ore have not yet been discovered, and that it is destined to become the +seat of the most extensive and important mining operations. The ore +heretofore raised at these mines has been chiefly found in the stratum +of earth which forms the surface of that country, and is bottomed on the +limestone. This stratum consists of a stiff red clay, passing in some +places into marl, and in others partaking more of the silicious +character forming a loam, and imbedding the ores of lead, accompanied by +the various mineralogical species before mentioned. These minerals are +often of a very attractive character for cabinets. + +The depth of this soil is sometimes thirty feet; and in this the +diggings have been chiefly done, requiring no other machinery than is +used in well-digging; and the stratum of rock has generally put a stop +to the progress of the miner, although veins of ore penetrating it have +often invited him in the pursuit. But it requires different tools, +machinery, and works, for mining in rock; the process is also more +tedious and expensive, and is considered especially so by those who have +been accustomed from their youth to find bodies of ore by a few days' +digging in the earth, and who, if they should work a fortnight at one +place, and not fall upon a bed of ore, would go away quite disheartened. +The principal search has therefore been made in the sub-stratum of clay, +where large bodies of ore are sometimes found by a day's, and sometimes +by an hour's work. Hence, in the neighborhood of Potosi, the ground has +been pretty well explored, and more search and labor is required to find +it than in other and more distant places, where new mines continue +annually to be discovered. But, with the exception of Austin's shaft, +who sunk eighty feet, and the mines opened by Jones, the rock at this +mine remains unpenetrated. Austin found large quantities of ore filling +crevices in the rock, and the appearances were flattering when the last +work was done. In sinking down, a change in the rock was experienced, +passing from compact solid gray limestone, by several gradations, into a +loose granulated limestone, very friable, and easily reduced to grains. +This stone was in some instances completely disintegrated, forming a +calcareous sand; and the most compact bodies of it, on a few weeks' +exposure at the mouth of the shaft, fall into grains. These grains are, +however, wholly calcareous, and readily soluble in nitric and muriatic +acids. The portion which I submitted to experiment was taken up +completely, nor was any sediment deposited by many months' standing. On +going deeper, the rock again graduated into a compact limestone, very +hard, and of a bluish-gray color, in which were frequently found small +cavities studded over with minute pyramids of limpid quartz. These +variations in the structure of the earth and rock in that place, are +still observable by the stones, spars, and other minerals, lying around +the mouths of the mines; and, upon the whole, the appearances are such +as to justify a conclusion that the lower strata of rocks at Potosi, and +the numerous mines in its vicinity, are of a highly metalliferous +character, and such as to warrant the expenditures incident to a search. + +From a statement lately drawn up, and certified by the proprietors of +warehouses at Herculaneum, it appears that the total quantity of pig and +bar lead, and shot, exported from that place, from January 1, 1817, to +June 1, 1818, a period of eighteen months, was 3,194,249 pounds. +Herculaneum may be considered the depot for the lead of Mine Shibboleth, +Richwoods, Bellefontaine, a portion of the lead of Mine a Burton and +Potosi, and a few other mines in that neighbourhood. Perhaps nearly or +quite half of the whole quantity of lead yearly smelted at the Missouri +mines, is shipped from this place. Here then is an average product of +2,395,667 pounds per annum, for the years 1817 and 1818, from those +mines which send their lead to Herculaneum. + +Assuming the ground that these mines produce only half of what is +annually made at the whole number of mines, which I conclude may be a +true estimate, we shall arrive at the conclusion, that the annual +product of the Missouri mines for those years was four millions, seven +hundred and ninety-one thousand, three hundred and thirty-four pounds. +This, estimated at the present price of four cents per pound, gives us a +sum of one hundred and ninety-one thousand, six hundred and fifty-three +dollars. This is the produce of one year; and supposing the mines to +have produced the same average quantity during every year since they +have been in possession of the United States, we have a sum of three +millions, sixty-six thousand, four hundred and forty-eight dollars; +which is more than the original cost of Louisiana, as purchased from +France during the administration of President Jefferson. Let those who +have any doubts of the value of our mines, reflect upon this, and +consider that it was the product of a year when the mines were in a +manifest state of decline, and wrought wholly by individuals, with a +foreign competition to oppose, and without the benefits resulting from a +systematic organization of the mining interest. + +Nearly all the lead smelted at the Missouri mines is transported in +carts and wagons from the interior to St. Genevieve and Herculaneum. As +it must necessarily be deposited for storage at those places, it was +naturally expected that authentic accounts of the lead manufactured in +the Territory for many years, might be obtained on application. But in +this, I experienced some degree of disappointment. At St. Genevieve, +although a warehouse has been kept at the landing for many years, the +lead sent to town has not all been stored. From the earliest time, and +before the establishment of a warehouse by Mr. Janies, the French +inhabitants of St. Genevieve had all been more or less engaged in the +storage, purchase, and traffic of lead. Every dwelling-house thus became +a storehouse for lead, and, in these cases, no regular accounts were +kept of the quantities received or delivered. The same practice has, in +some measure, continued since, so that it is impossible to obtain, with +any precision, the amount shipped from this place. At Herculaneum, a +warehouse has been kept since the year 1816; and on application to Mr. +Elias Bates, the proprietor, he was so obliging as to allow me +permission to peruse his book of receipts, for the purpose of making +extracts. The following details embrace the receipts of lead at that +place for a period of two years and eleven months, ending May 18, 1819. + +I. _A Series of Receipts, from June 16, 1816, to December 31 of the same +year, being a period of six months and fourteen days._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts 52,781 lbs. + 2. 57,097 + 3. 55,039 + 4. 58,892 + 5. 50,639 + 6. 63,787 + 7. 55,663 + 8. 47,287 + -------- + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 322,134 + -------- + Total. 763,319 + +II. _A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1816, to 31st Dec. 1817._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts. 12,375 lbs. + 2. 51,521 + 3. 49,023 + 4. 60,576 + 5. 54,242 + 6. 47,321 + 7. 60,956 + 8. 51,420 + 9. 43,774 + 10. 42,694 + 11. 47,958 + 12. 15,482 + ------- + 537,343 + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 501,903 + --------- + Total 1,039,246 + +III. _A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1817, to 31st Dec. 1818._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts 24,261 lbs. + 2. 45,981 + 3. 31,041 + 4. 39,424 + 5. 34,711 + 6. 44,266 + 7. 31,315 + 8. 56,442 + 9. 33,932 + -------- + 341,372 + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 112,203 + -------- + Total 453,575 + + +IV. _A Series of Receipts from 31st Dec. 1818, to 18th May 1819._ + + Fol. 1. Aggregate of receipts 14,764 lbs. + 2. 44,323 + 3. 44,628 + ------- + 103,715 + Aggregate of separate individual acc'ts during same period. 26,211 + ------- + Total 129,926 + + RECAPITULATION. + + 1816 763,319 lbs. + 1817 1,039,246 + 1818 453,575 + 1819 129,926 + --------- + Total 2,386,066 + +During eighteen months of the same period, from Dec. 31st, 1816, to June +1st, 1818, there was deposited with, and shipped by, sundry other +persons in Herculaneum, as ascertained by Colonel S. Hammond and M. +Austin, Esq., 517,495 pounds of lead, together with patent shot, +manufactured by Elias Bates and Christian Wilt, to the amount of 668,350 +pounds. For the remaining part of the estimated term, (two years and +eleven months,) it is reasonable to presume that a like quantity of lead +was exported through private channels at Herculaneum, and a like +quantity of shot manufactured by Messrs. Bates and Wilt. This will make +the quantity of pig and bar lead shipped by individuals, 1,034,990 +pounds, and the quantity of patent shot manufactured, 1,356,700 pounds; +which two sums, added to the receipts of Mr. Bates's warehouse, as +detailed above, gives us an aggregate amount of 4,757,990 pounds, for +the period of two years and eleven months. St. Genevieve, as has already +been mentioned, is probably the storehouse for one-half of the mines, +and may therefore be estimated to have received and exported the same +quantity of pig and bar lead during the same period, making a total of +9,515,512 pounds, which gives an average product of more than three +million of pounds of lead per annum. + +It would be interesting to know in what proportion the different mines +have contributed to this amount. The above details show us their +collective importance; but we should then be enabled to estimate their +individual and comparative value. With this view, I have compiled, from +the best information, the following: + + ESTIMATE. + + Mines. Pounds of lead. No. of hands. + + Mine a Burton 1,500,000 160 + Mine Shibboleth 2,700,000 240 + Mine La Motte 2,400,000 210 + Richwoods 1,300,000 140 + + Bryan's Mines } + Dogget's Mines } 910,100 80 + + Perry's Diggings 600,000 60 + + Elliot's Mines } + Old Mines } 45,000 20 + Bellefontaine } + + Mine Astraddle } + Mine Liberty } + Renault's Mines } 450,000 40 + Mine Silvers } + Miller's Mines } + + Cannon's Diggings } + Becquet's Diggings } 75,000 30 + Little Mines } + + Rocky Diggings } + Citadel Diggings } + Lambert's Mine } 1,160,000 130 + Austin's Mines } + Jones's Mines } + + Gravelly Diggings } + Scott's Mine } + Mine a Martin } 50,000 20 + Mine a Robino } + ---------- ---- + 11,180,000 1,130 + +In this estimate are included all persons concerned in the operations of +mining, and who draw their support from it; wood-cutters, teamsters, and +blacksmiths, as well as those engaged in digging and smelting lead-ore, +&c. The estimate is supposed to embrace a period of three years, ending +1st June, 1819, and making an average product of 3,726,666 lbs. per +annum, which is so near the result arrived at in the preceding details, +as to induce a conclusion that it is essentially correct, and that the +mines of Missouri, taken collectively, yield this amount of pig-lead +annually. + +The United States acquired possession of the mines in the year 1803, +fifteen years ago last December; and, assuming the fact that they have +annually produced this quantity, there has been smelted, under the +American government, fifty-five million pounds of lead. + +On the view which has now been taken of the Missouri mines, it may be +proper here to remark-- + +1. That the ores of these mines are of the richest and purest kind, and +that they exist in such bodies as not only to supply all lead for +domestic consumption, but also, if the purposes of trade require it, are +capable of supplying large quantities for exportation. + +2. That although at different periods the amount of lead manufactured +has been considerable, yet this produce has been subject to perpetual +variation, and, upon the whole, has fallen, in the aggregate, far short +of the amount the mines are capable of producing. To make these mines +produce the greatest possible quantity of lead of which they are +capable, with the least possible expense, is a consideration of the +first political consequence, to which end it is desirable that the +reserved mines be disposed of, to individuals, or that the term for +which leases are granted be extended from three to fifteen years, which +will induce capitalists, who are now deterred by the illiberality of +governmental terms, to embark in mining. That there be laid a +governmental duty of two and a half cents per pound on all imported pig +and bar lead, which will exclude foreign lead from our markets, and +afford a desired relief to the domestic manufacturer. The present duty +is one cent per pound. But this does not prevent a foreign competition; +and the smelters call for, and appear to be entitled to, further +protection. + +3. That although the processes of mining now pursued are superior to +what they were under the Spanish government, yet there is a very +manifest want of skill, system, and economy, in the raising of ores, and +the smelting of lead. The furnaces in use are liable to several +objections. They are defective in the plan, they are constructed of +improper materials, and the workmanship is of the rudest kind. Hence, +not near the quantity of metallic lead is extracted from the ore which +it is capable, without an increase of expense, of yielding. There is a +great waste created by smelting ore in the common log furnace, in which +a considerable part of the lead is volatilized, forming the sublimated +matter which adheres in such bodies to the sides of the log furnaces, +and is thrown by as useless. This can be prevented by an improvement in +its construction. To pursue mining with profit, it is necessary to +pursue it with economy; and true economy is, to build the best of +furnaces, with the best of materials. At present the furnaces are +constructed of common limestone, which soon burns into quicklime, and +the work requires rebuilding from the foundation. Not only so, but the +frequency with which they require to be renewed, begets a carelessness +in those who build them, and the work is accordingly put up in the most +ordinary and unworkmanlike manner. Instead of limestone, the furnaces +ought to be constructed of good refractory sandstone, or apyrous clay, +in the form of bricks, which will resist the action of heat for a great +length of time. Both these substances are the production of that +country, and specimens of them are now in my possession. + +4. From the information afforded, it has been seen that the mines are +situated in a country which affords a considerable proportion of the +richest farming-lands, producing corn, rye, wheat, tobacco, hemp, flax, +oats, &c., in the greatest abundance, and that no country is better +adapted for raising cattle, horses, hogs, and sheep. The country is well +watered, and with the purest of water; the climate is mild and pleasant, +the air dry and serene, and the region is healthy in an unusual degree. +Every facility is also afforded by its streams for erecting works for +the manufacture of white and red lead, massicot, litharge, shot, +sheet-lead, mineral yellow, and the other manufactures dependent upon +lead. The country also abounds with various useful minerals besides +lead, which are calculated to increase its wealth and importance. It is +particularly abundant in iron, zinc, manganese, sulphur, salt, coal, +chalk, and ochre. + +5. That a systematic organization of the mining interest would have a +tendency to promote the public welfare. To this end, there should be +appointed an officer for the inspection and superintendence of mines. He +should reside in the mine country, and report annually to the proper +governmental department on the state of the mines, improvements, &c. His +duty should consist in part of the following items, viz.: + +_a._ To lease out public mines, and receive and account for rents. + +_b._ To prevent the waste and destruction of wood on the public lands. + +_c._ To see that no mines were wrought without authority. + +_d._ To keep the government informed, periodically, of the quantity of +lead made at the different mines, and of new discoveries of lead, or any +other useful minerals; and, + +_e._ To explore, practically, the mineralogy of the country, in order +fully to develop its mineral character and importance. Connected with +these duties, should be the collection of mineralogical specimens for a +national cabinet of natural history at Washington. + +The superintendent of mines should be a practical mineralogist, and such +a salary attached to the office as to induce a man of respectable +talents and scientific acquirements to accept the appointment. To allow +the manufacturers of lead every advantage consistent with the public +interest, the rent charged on mines should not exceed two and a half per +cent. on the quantity manufactured, which is equivalent to the proposed +governmental duty on imported lead, whereby the revenue would not only +be kept up, but might be considerably enhanced. The foregoing details +exhibit an annual produce of 3,726,666 pounds of lead, which, it is +presumable, may be half the quantity the mines are capable of producing, +with proper management. But, estimating the lead at four cents per +pound, and taking that as the average quantity, the annual rents, at two +and a half per cent., will create a revenue of thirty-two thousand four +hundred and ninety dollars. + +This subject is believed to be one that commends itself to the attention +of the government, which has, from a policy early introduced, reserved +the mineral lands on the public domain. No one can view it in the light +of these facts, without perceiving the propriety and necessity of an +efficient organization of this branch of the public interest. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[12] The following sketch of the life of Burton is given by Colonel +Thomas H. Benton, of St. Louis, in the Enquirer of that city, October +16, 1818:--"He is a Frenchman, from the north of France. In the +fore-part of the last century, he served in the Low Countries, under the +orders of Marshal Saxe. He was at Fontenoy when the Duke of Cumberland +was beat there by that Marshal. He was at the siege of Bergen-op-Zoom, +and assisted in the assault of that place when it was assailed by a +division of Marshal Saxe's army, under the command of Count Lowendahl. +He has also seen service upon this continent. He was at the building of +fort Chartres, on the American bottom; afterwards went to fort Du Quesne +(now Pittsburgh), and was present at Braddock's defeat. From the life of +a soldier, Burton passed to that of a hunter; and in this character, +about half a century ago, while pursuing a bear to the west of the +Mississippi, he discovered the rich lead-mines which have borne his name +ever since. His present age cannot be ascertained. He was certainly an +_old soldier_ at fort Chartres, when some of the people of the present +day were little children at that place. The most moderate computation +will make him a hundred and six. He now lives in the family of Mr. +Micheaux, at the little rock ferry, three miles above St. Genevieve, and +walks to that village almost every Sunday to attend mass. He is what we +call a square-built man, of five feet eight inches high, full chest and +forehead; his sense of seeing and hearing somewhat impaired, but free +from disease, and apparently able to hold out against time for many +years to come." + +[13] The following is a list of the principal mines worked under the +Spanish government, with their situation: + + Mine La Motte Head of St. Francis river. + Mine a Joe On Flat river. + Mine a Burton On a branch of Mineral Fork. + Old Mines On a branch of Mineral Fork. + Renault's Mines On Mineral Fork, or Fourche Arno. + + +[14] A law erecting the Territory of Arkansas from the southern part of +Missouri, has since passed; but its northern boundary is extended so as +to include all White river above the latitude of 36 deg. 30'. + +[15] The following are the principal historical epochs of Louisiana, +chronologically arranged: + + A. D. + Discovered by Ferdinand de Soto, and named Florida 1539 + Visited by the French from Canada 1674 + Settlement made by La Salle 1683 + A settlement made at Beloxi 1699 + Granted to Crozat by Louis XIV., 14th September 1712 + New Orleans founded by the French 1717 + Retroceded to the crown by Crozat 1717 + Granted to the Company of the West 1717 + Retroceded by the Company of the Wes 1731 + Ceded by France to Spain 1762 + First occupied by the Spanish 1769 + Ceded to the United States 1803 + Taken possession of by the United States, 20th December 1803 + Louisiana became a State, August 1812 + Missouri Territory erected, 4th June 1812 + + +[16] On this passage, Mr. Silliman remarks, "that sulphur is not +poisonous to men or animals.... The _carbonate_ of barytes is eminently +poisonous; but we have never heard that the sulphate is so. May not the +licking around the furnaces expose the cattle to receive lead, in some +of its forms, minutely divided? or, if it be not active in the metallic +state, both the oxide and the carbonate, which must of course exist +around the furnaces, would be highly active and poisonous. Is it not +possible, also, that some of the natural waters of the country may, in +consequence of saline or acid impregnations, dissolve some of the lead, +and thus obtain saturnine qualities? We must allow, however, that we are +not acquainted with the existence of any natural water thus +impregnated."--JOUR. SCI., Vol. III. + +[17] I was mistaken in supposing this the only locality of the fluate of +lime in the United States. It has also been found "in Virginia, near +Woodstock or Miller's town, Shenandoah county, in small loose masses, in +the fissures of a limestone containing shells. (Barton.)--In Maryland, +on the west side of the Blue Ridge, with sulphate of barytes. +(Hayden.)--In New Jersey, near Franklin Furnace, in Sussex county, +disseminated in lamellar carbonate of lime, and accompanied with mica +and carburet of iron; also near Hamburg, in the same county, on the +turnpike to Pompton, in a vein of quartz and feldspar. (Bruce.)--In New +York, near Saratoga Springs, in limestone; it is nearly colorless, and +penetrated by pyrites.--In Vermont, at Thetford.--In Connecticut, at +Middletown, in a vein, and is accompanied by sulphurets of lead, zinc, +and iron. (Bruce.)--In Massachusetts, at the lead-mine in Southampton, +where it is imbedded in sulphate of barytes, or granite; its colors are +green, purple, &c.--In New Hampshire, at Rosebrook's Gap, in the White +Mountains, in small detached pieces. (Gibbs.)"--CLEVELAND'S MINERALOGY. + + + + +MINERALOGY. + + +A CATALOGUE OF THE MINERALS OF THE MISSISSIPPI VALLEY. + +In the arrangement of this catalogue, the order introduced in Professor +Cleveland's mineralogical tables, has been chiefly observed. It is the +commencement of an investigation into the physical history, character, +and mineral resources of the West, which it will become the duty of +future observers to continue and perfect. The field is an extensive one, +and invites attention. The order and beauty that are observed in this +branch of natural history, afford as striking proofs as any of the other +departments of it, of that design which, in so remarkable a manner, +pervades the organization of the various classes of bodies, animate and +inanimate, on the surface of the globe. So far as respects mineralogy, +its species and varieties have not all been seen, in crystallized forms, +agreeably to our imperfect state of microscopical knowledge; but as far +as the species have been brought within observation, in the classes of +crystals and crystallized ores, they rival, in their colors and exact +geometrical forms, other systems of bodies. + +In revising the list, those specimens are dropped, respecting which +further reflection or examination has shown, either that the early +descriptions were imperfect, or that the quantity of the mineral was +deficient. + + I. ALKALINE AND EARTHY SALTS. + + 1. Nitrate of potash. Nitre. + 2. Muriate of soda. Salt. + 3. Sulphate of barytes. Heavy spar. + 4. Carbonate of lime. Calc. spar. + _a._ Rhombic crystals. + _b._ Concrete forms. + 5. Fluate of lime. Fluor spar. + 6. Sulphate of lime. Gypsum. + 7. Sulphate of magnesia. Magnesia. + 8. Sulphate of alumine and potash. Alum. + + II. EARTHY COMPOUNDS AND STONES. + + 9. Quartz. + _a._ Hexagonal crystals. + _b._ Radiated. + _c._ Chalcedony. + _d._ Agatized wood. + _e._ Agate. + _f._ Jasper. + _g._ Hornstone. + _h._ Red ferruginous quartz. + _i._ Tabular quartz. + _j._ Granular quartz. + _k._ Hoary quartz. + _l._ Carnelian. + _m._ Buhrstone. + _n._ Opalized wood. + 10. Pumice. + 11. Mica. + 12. Feldspar. + 13. Hornblende. + 14. Greenstone porphyry. + 15. Clay. + _a._ Native alumine. + _b._ Indurated clay. + _c._ Reddle. + 16. Basanite. + 17. Indian pipestone. + Opwagonite. + 18. Schoerl. + 19. Novaculite. + + III. COMBUSTIBLES. + + 20. Sulphur. + _a._ Crystallized. + _b._ Concrete. + 21. Graphite. + 22. Coal. + _a._ Slaty-bituminous. + _b._ Wood-coal. + Bituminous shale. + + IV. METALS. + + 23. Native copper. + 24. Iron. + 25. Sulphuret of iron. + 26. Iron glance. + 27. Micaceous oxide of iron. + 28. Brown oxide of iron. + 29. Ironstone. + 30. Argillaceous oxide of iron. + 31. Ochrey oxide of iron. + 32. Sulphuret of lead. + _a._ Common galena. + _b._ Specular. + _c._ Granular. + _d._ Cobaltic. + 33. Carbonate of lead. + 34. Earthy oxide of lead. + 35. Sulphuret of zinc. + 36. Sulphuret of manganese. + +FIRST CLASS. + +1. NITRE--SALTPETRE. This salt, in its efflorescent state, +exists extensively in the limestone caves of Missouri and Arkansas. It +also impregnates the masses of earth found in these recesses. This earth +is lixiviated with wood-ashes, which allows the nitre to take a +crystalline form. I visited a large cavern, about eighty miles +south-west of Potosi, where this salt was manufactured, and observed its +efflorescences in other caves in the Ozark range. + +2. MURIATE OF SODA. About one hundred and fifty thousand +bushels of common salt are annually made from the United States' saline +on Salt river, in Illinois. It appears, from the remains of antique +broken vessels found in that locality, to have been manufactured there +by the ancient inhabitants. There is a saline, which has been profitably +worked, on Saline creek, in St. Genevieve county. Two salt springs are +worked, in a small way, in Jefferson county, Mo. The springs in Arkansas +are reported to be extensive, and rumors of rock-salt on its plains have +been rife, since the purchase of Louisiana. The hunters whom I met in +the Ozark range, invariably affirmed its existence, in crystalline solid +masses, in that quarter; from which also, it is to be recollected, De +Soto's scouts brought it, in 1542. + +3. SULPHATE OF BARYTES--HEAVY SPAR. This mineral is found, in +considerable quantities, at the principal lead-mines of Missouri, west +of the Mississippi. It presents its usual characters--it is heavy, +white, shining, opaque, and easily fractured. It is sometimes found +crested, columnar, prismatic, or in tabular crystallizations. Its +surface is frequently covered by a yellowish, ochrey earth, or +ferruginous oxide. It sometimes exists as the matrix of the sulphuret of +lead--more frequently, as one of its accompanying minerals. + +4. CARBONATE OF LIME. + +a. _Calc. Spar._ This form of the carbonate of lime is common in the +lead-mine regions of Missouri. At Hazel run, it constitutes, to some +extent, the gangue of the lead-ores. It is generally imbedded in lumps +in the red clay mineral soil. These lumps are round, externally; but, on +being broken, reveal a rhomboidal structure, and are beautifully +transparent. + +b. _Stalactites._ This form of the carbonate of lime is found in a cave +on the head-waters of Currents river, in Missouri. The stalactites are +found in concretions resembling icicles hanging from the roof, or in +columns reaching to the floor. The specimens are translucent. +Stalactites are also found in a very large cave (Winoca) on Findley's +fork, one of the tributaries of White river, Arkansas. They form two +large vases in this cave, which are filled with the most crystalline +water. + +c. _Stalagmite_ (Calcareous Alabaster). The cave which has just been +mentioned on Findley's fork, affords this mineral in small, solid +globules, which strew the floor of the cave. + +5. FLUOR SPAR. The elevated lands on the west banks of the +Ohio, near the picturesque shores of Cave-in-Rock, in Illinois, disclose +this mineral. It exhibits its well-known character. It is generally of a +purple, or amethystine hue, and crystallized, as its primary form, in +cubes. Externally, these crystals are dull. Its association here is with +the ores of lead, which have been extensively searched for in former +times. It is plentifully found, sometimes in large crystals, which have +an external appearance as if they had been subjected to the influence of +turbid water. It has been thus far, chiefly, explored in the diluvial +stratum. + +6. GYPSUM. Foliated masses of this mineral occur in the river +cliffs in St. Clair county, Illinois. It is found in large quantities +near the salines in Upper Arkansas. Dr. Sibley, speaking of the +formation in that vicinity, says: "It is a tract of about seventy-five +miles square, in which nature has arranged a variety of the most strange +and whimsical vagaries. It is an assemblage of beautiful meadows, +verdant ridges, and rude misshapen piles of red clay, thrown together in +the utmost apparent confusion, yet affording the most pleasing +harmonies, and presenting in every direction an endless variety of +curious and interesting objects. After winding along for a few miles on +the high ridges, you suddenly descend an almost perpendicular declivity +of rocks and clay, into a series of level and fertile meadows, watered +by some beautiful rivulets, and adorned here and there with shrubby +cotton trees, elms, and cedars. These meadows are divided by chains +formed of red clay, and huge masses of gypsum, with here and there a +pyramid of gravel. One might imagine himself surrounded by the ruins of +some ancient city, and that the plain had sunk by some convulsion of +nature more than one hundred feet below its former level; for some of +the huge columns of red clay rise to the height of two hundred feet +perpendicular, capped with rocks of gypsum, which the hand of time is +ever crumbling off, and strewing in beautiful transparent flakes, along +the declivities of the hill, glittering like so many mirrors in the +sun." + +7. SULPHATE OF MAGNESIA. A large and curious cavern has been +discovered in the calcareous rocks at Corydon, near the seat of +government of Indiana, which is found to yield very beautiful white +crystals of this mineral. To what extent these appearances exist, is +unknown; but the cavern invites exploration. + +8. ALUM. Efflorescences of the sulphate of alumina exist in a +calcareous cavern in the elevated ranges of Bellevieu, in the county of +Washington, Mo. No practical use is made of it. + +9. QUARTZ. This important family of mineral bodies exists, in +many of its forms, on the west banks of the Mississippi. They will be +noticed under their appropriate names. + +a. _Granular Quartz._ There is a very large body of this mineral about +eight miles west of St. Genevieve, near the Potosi road. It is known as +the site of a remarkable cave. The sides, roof, and floor of the cave, +consist of the most pure and white granular quartz. It is quite friable +between the fingers, and falls into a singularly transparent and +beautiful sand. Each of these grains, when examined by the microscope, +is found to be a transparent molecule of pure quartz. It possesses no +definable tint of color, is not acted upon by either nitric or muriatic +acids, and appears to be an aggregation of minute crystals of quartz. It +occurs in several caves near the road, whose sides are entirely composed +of it; and its snowy hue, and granular structure, give it the appearance +of refined sugar. It appears to me to be composed of silex nearly or +quite pure, and possesses, as I find on treatment with potash, the +property of easy fusibility. Could the necessary alkali and apyrous +clays be conveniently had at this spot, I cannot conceive a more +advantageous place for a manufactory of crystal glass. + +b. _Radiated Quartz._ This mineral is found in great abundance at the +Missouri lead-mines, where it bears the striking name of mineral +blossom, or blossom of lead--an opinion being entertained that it +indicates the presence or contiguity of lead-ore. Examined with care, it +is found to consist of small crystals of quartz, disposed in radii, +which resemble the petals of a flower. These crystals are superimposed +on a basis consisting of thin lines, or tabular layers, of agate. It is +found either strewn on the surface of the soil, imbedded in it, or +existing in cavities in the limestone rock. + +c. _Chalcedony._ This species is brought down the Mississippi or +Missouri, and deposited in small fragments along the Missouri shore. It +also constitutes the principal layers in the thin tabular, or mamillary +masses, which constitute the basis of the radiated quartz. Most +commonly, it is bluish-white, or milk-white. + +d. _Agatized Wood._ Fragments of this mineral are brought down the +Missouri, and deposited, in occasional pieces, along the banks of the +Mississippi. + +e. _Hornstone--Chert._ This substance appears to have been imbedded +extensively in the calcareous strata of the Mississippi valley; for it +is scattered, as an ingredient, in its diluvions. Frequently it is in +chips, or fragments, all of which indicate a smooth conchoidal fracture. +Sometimes it consists of parts of nodules. Sometimes it is still solidly +imbedded in the rock, or consolidated strata, as on the coast below +Cape Girardeau, Mo. Indeed, so far as observation goes, it characterizes +all the district of country between the western banks of the Mississippi +river, and the great prairies and sand deserts at the foot of the Rocky +mountains. Its color is generally brown, with different shades of +yellow, black, blue, or red. It appears nearly allied to flint, into +which it is sometimes seen passing. It runs also into varieties of +jasper, chalcedony, and common quartz; and the different gradations from +well-characterized hornstone, until its distinctive characters are lost +in other sub-species of quartz, may be distinctly marked. The barbs for +Indian arrows, frequently found in this region, appear to have been +chiefly made of hornstone. + +f. _Jasper._ This mineral also appears to have been imbedded in the +silico-calcareous rocks of the western valley; and it is found, in the +fragmentary form, on the banks of the Mississippi, and also on its +plains below the Rocky mountains. The fine yellow egg-shaped pebbles of +White river, are common jasper. Several specimens, picked up in a +desultory journey, possess striking beauty. The first is a uniform +bottle-green, very hard, and susceptible of a high polish. The second is +the fragment of a nodular mass, consisting of alternate concentric +stripes of green, brown, and yellow; the colors passing by imperceptible +shades into each other. A specimen found in Potosi consists of alternate +stripes of rose and flesh red. + +g. _Agate._ This mineral is picked up, in a fragmentary form, along the +banks of the Mississippi. Its original repository appears to have been +the volcanic and amygdaloidal rocks about its sources, which have been +extensively broken down by geological mutations, during ante-historical +periods. The fragments are often beautifully transparent, sometimes +zoned or striped. Sometimes they are arranged in angles, presenting the +fortification-agate. The colors are various shades of white and red, the +latter being layers of carnelian. All the pieces found in this dispersed +state are harder than the imbedded species, and are with difficulty cut +by the lapidary. + +h. _Opal._ A single specimen of this mineral, from the right banks of +the Ohio, near Cave-in-Rock, Illinois, is of a delicate bluish-white, +and opalesces on being held to the light. It is not acted on by acids. +This locality is remarkable as yielding galena, heavy spar, blende, +calcareous spar, fluor spar, pyrites, coal, and salt. It belongs to the +great secondary limestone formation of the Ohio valley. It is cavernous, +and yields some fossil impressions. + +i. _Red Ferruginous Quartz._ This occurs as one of the imbedded +materials of the diluvion of the Mississippi valley. + +k. _Rock Crystal._ Very perfect and beautiful crystals of this mineral +are procured near the Hot Springs of Arkansas. They consist, generally, +of six-sided prisms, terminated by six-sided pyramids. Some of these +are so perfectly limpid, that writing can be read, without the +slightest obscurity, through the parallel faces of the crystals. + +l. _Pseudomorphous Chalcedony._ Lake Pepin, Upper Mississippi. This +appears to have been formed by deposition on cubical crystals, which +have disappeared. + +m. _Tabular Quartz._ West bank of the Mississippi, Missouri. Of a white +color, semi-transparent. The plates are single, and the lines perfectly +parallel. + +n. _Hoary Quartz._ West banks of the Mississippi, Mo. The character of +hoariness appears to be imparted by very minute crystals, or concretions +of quartz, on the surface of radiated quartz. + +o. _Common Quartz._ This mineral is found in veins of from one to eight +or ten feet wide, in the argillaceous rock formation in the vicinity of +the Hot Springs of Washita. It is also seen, in very large detached +masses, on the south bank of White river. The character of these rocks +will not be recognized on a superficial view; for they have a gray, +time-worn appearance, and are so much covered by moss, that it was not +until I had broken off a fragment with a hammer, that I discovered them +to be white quartz. Pebbles of quartz, either white or variously colored +by iron, are common on the shores of White river, and, joined to the +purity and transparency of the waters, add greatly to the pleasure of a +voyage on that beautiful stream. + +p. _Buhrstone._ Raccoon creek, Indiana. This bed is noted throughout the +western country, and affords a profitable branch of manufacture. It +covers an area of from ten to fifteen acres square. Its texture is +vesicular, yet it is sufficiently compact to admit of being quarried +with advantage, and the stones are applied to the purposes of milling +with the best success. + +q. _Sedimentary Quartz--Schoolcraftite._ This mineral occurs three miles +from the Hot Springs of Washita. It is of a grayish-white color, +partaking a little of green, yellow, or red; translucent in an uncommon +degree, with an uneven and moderately glimmering fracture, and +susceptible of being scratched with a knife. Oil stones for the purpose +of honing knives, razors, or tools, are occasionally procured from this +place, and considerable quantities have been lately taken to New +Orleans. It gives a fine edge, and is considered equal to the Turkish +oil-stone. It appears to me, from external character and preliminary +tests, to consist almost entirely of silex, with a little oxide of iron. +Its compactness, superior softness, specific gravity, and coloring +matter, distinguish it from silicious sinter. It has been improperly +termed, heretofore, "novaculite." It contains no alumine. It sometimes +reveals partial conditions, or spots, of a degree of hardness nearly +equal to common quartz. + +r. _Carnelian._ Banks of the Mississippi, above the junction of the +Ohio. Traces of this mineral begin to be found, as soon as the heavy +alluvial lands are passed. It is among the finest detritus of the +minerals of the quartz family, brought down from upper plains. The +fragments, in these lower positions, are small, transparent, and hard, +colored red or yellowish. + +s. _Basanite--Touchstone._ This mineral is found in the Mississippi +detritus; but no fixed locality has been ascertained. + +10. PUMICE. The light, vesicular substance, found floating down +the Missouri and Mississippi, is not, properly speaking, a true pumice, +capable of the applications of that article in the arts; but it cannot +be classified with any other species. It is more properly a +pseudo-pumice, arising from partial volcanic action on the formations of +some of the tributaries of the Missouri, which originate in the Rocky +mountains. It is brought down by the June flood, sometimes in large +masses, which, as the waters abate, are left on the islands or shores. +It is incompletely vitrified, consisting of spongy globules. The masses +are irregularly colored, agreeably to the vitrified materials, red, +black or brown. Its tenacity is very great. + +30. MICA. In the granitical, or primitive district, at the +sources of the St. Francis. The great body of these rocks is a sienite, +or sienitic granite, or greenstone. Like the northern granitical tracts, +the mica is generally replaced by hornblende. The folia, usually, are +small. + +31. FELDSPAR. With the preceding. The great bulk of these +granitical formations consists of red feldspar. Where the greenstone +becomes porphyritic, the feldspar is a light green. + +32. HORNBLENDE. With the preceding. This mineral assumes its +crystalline form, in large areas of the sienite rock. With the two +preceding minerals, mica and feldspar, and common quartz, it constitutes +the mountain peaks of that remarkable district. It is the only locality, +except the Washita hills, where these formations rise to an elevation +above the great metalliferous sandstone, and carbonaceous deposits of +the central area of the Mississippi valley, south of the Sauk rapids, +above St. Anthony's falls, and the head-waters of the St. Peter's, or +Minnesota river. The latter constitute the northern limits of the great +horizontal, sedimentary, semi-crystallized rocks west of the +Alleghanies. + +33. GREENSTONE PORPHYRY. With the preceding. + +34. PUDDINGSTONE. In the tongue of land formed by the junction +of the Ohio with the Mississippi, directly beneath the alluvial lands at +the old site of fort Massac, and at the village called "America." Also, +in large, broken blocks, along the west shores of the Mississippi, near +the "chalk banks," so called, in Cape Girardeau county, and at Cape +Garlic, on the west banks of the Mississippi. + +33. NATIVE ALUMINE--WHITE, FRIABLE, PURE CLAY. At the head of +Tiawapeta bottom, Little Chain of Rocks, west banks of the Mississippi, +Cape Girardeau county, Missouri. This remarkable body of white earth is +locally denominated chalk, and was thus called in the first edition of +this catalogue. It is employed as a substitute for chalk, but is found +to contain no carbonic acid, and is destitute of a particle of calcia. +It appears, from Mr. Jessup,[18] to be nearly pure alumine. The +traveller, on ascending the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio, +passes through a country of alluvial formation, a distance of +thirty-five miles. Here the first high land presents itself on the west +bank of the river, in a moderately elevated ridge, running from +south-east to north-west, and terminating abruptly in the bank of the +river, which here runs nearly at right angles with the ridge, and has +been worn away by the action of the water. This ridge consists of +secondary limestone, overlying a coarse reddish sandstone, which, at the +lowest stage of the water in summer, is seen in huge misshapen +fragments, at the immediate edge of the water, and at intervals nearly +half way across the river, as well as on the Illinois shore. The mineral +occurs in mass, abundantly. It is nearly dry, of a perfectly white +color, and chalky friability. It embraces masses of hornstone, +resembling flint. It also occurs at a higher point on the same shore, +two miles below the Grand Tower. + +34. PLASTIC WHITE CLAY. Gray's mine, Jefferson county, Mo. + +35. OPWAGUNITE[19]--GEOGNOSTIC RED CLAY. Prairie des Couteau, +between the sources of the St. Peter's river and the Missouri. It exists +in lamellar masses, beneath secondary masses. It is of a dull red color, +is soft, compact, easily cut, and is a material much employed and valued +by the Indians for carving pipes, and sometimes neck ornaments. +Occasionally it has brighter spots of pale red. It is also found on the +Red Cedar, or Folle Avoine branch of Chippewa river, Wisconsin, of a +darker color, approaching to that of chocolate. It is polished by the +Indians with rushes. + +III. COMBUSTIBLES. + +36. SULPHUR. In flocculent white deposits, in a spring, +Jefferson county, Missouri. + +37. MINERAL COAL. Bituminous, slaty coal, constitutes a very +large geological basin in the Ohio and Mississippi valleys, where it +appears to have resulted from the burial of ancient forests. At +Pittsburgh, I found it composing thick strata in elevated grounds, on +the south banks of the Monongahela river. In an excursion up that +stream, it characterizes its banks at intervals for forty miles. It +inflames easily, burns with a pitchy smoke and bituminous smell, and +throws out a great heat. It occurs in veins in limestone, along with +argillaceous slate, indurated clay, red sandstone, and bituminous shale, +which are arranged in alternate strata, one above the other, preserving +an exact parallelism with the waters of the Alleghany, Monongahela, and +Ohio rivers. The coal always constitutes a vein between the shale and +clay which are found immediately above and below it. The clay appears to +have originated from the decomposition of shale; for it may be observed +in all stages of the decomposition, from a well-characterized +argillaceous slate, to plastic clay. + +The veins of coal are from a foot to nine feet in thickness, and the +strata of coal, shale, limestone, &c., are repeated; so that the sides +of the hills which afford coal, exhibit several strata, with the rock +intervening, one above another. The greatest distance, in a +perpendicular direction, from one stratum to another, is perhaps one +hundred feet; and such is the regularity of the coal formation in this +region, that the description of one pit, or bed, will apply almost +equally to any other within a circuit of two hundred miles, every +section of which is characterized by coal. Sometimes pyrites of a +tin-white color are found mixed among the coal. In Missouri, it occurs +at Florrisant. + +38. GRAPHITE--PLUMBAGO. Twelve miles south of Potosi, +Washington county, Mo., in a large body. + +39. SULPHURET OF LEAD. + +a. _Galena._ One of the most remarkable formations of this ore in +America, if not in the world, is furnished by the metalliferous +limestones of the Mississippi. Of these, Missouri furnishes one of the +most celebrated localities. These mines were first explored by the +renowned Mississippi Company, in 1719, and have continued to be worked +during the successive changes which it has experienced under the French, +Spanish, and Americans, to the present period. The number of mines now +wrought is about fifty, and the quantity of lead annually smelted is +estimated at three millions of pounds. The ore is the common galena, +with a broad glittering grain, and bluish-gray color, and is found +accompanied by sulphate of barytes, blende, pyrites, quartz, and +calcareous spar. It yields, on assay, eighty-two per cent. of metallic +lead, the remainder being chiefly sulphur. (Vide "View of the +Lead-Mines.") + +b. _Granular Sulphuret of Lead._ Mine La Motte, Madison county, +Missouri. + +c. _Cobaltic Sulphuret of Lead._ With the preceding. + +40. OXIDE OF LEAD. Earthy, yellow. Wythe county, Virginia. + +41. CARBONATE OF LEAD. Lead-mines of Missouri. It occurs in +some of the mines as a crust, or thin layer, on ores of galena. + +42. SULPHURET OF ZINC. In the form of black blende. Lead-mines +of Missouri. + +43. OXIDE OF ZINC. Earthy, grayish-white. In the mineral called +"dry-bone." Missouri lead-mines. + +44. IRON. + +a. _Iron Glance._ In the Iron Mountain and Pilot Knob, on the sources of +the river St. Francis, Missouri. It occurs in vast masses, granular, and +sometimes specular, without iridescence. Also, on White river, Arkansas. + +b. _Micaceous Oxide of Iron._ Sources of the St. Francis river, +Missouri. A vein of this ore, several feet wide, is found in red +sienite, on the banks of the river St. Francis, at the Narrows, Madison +county, Missouri Territory. Its unusual appearance has for several years +attracted the attention of the inhabitants. It is situated four miles +south of the extensive lead-mines of La Motte, and in the centre of a +highly interesting geological and mineralogical section of country. The +rocks at that place are the old red granite and sienite, in mountain +masses, with veins of greenstone, greenstone porphyry, and gneiss. + +c. _Red Oxide of Iron._ Flint river, Tennessee. + +d. _Brown Haematite._ On the dividing ridge between Strawberry and Spring +rivers, Arkansas. + +e. _Argillaceous Oxide of Iron--Ironstone._ Banks of the Monongahela, +Pennsylvania. + +f. _Sulphuret of Iron._ Accompanying the ores and vein-stones of the +Missouri lead-mines. + +g. _Magnetic Oxide of Iron._ Fifteen miles below the Hot Springs, on the +Washita river, Arkansas. In quantity. + +45. BLACK OXIDE OF MANGANESE. On Big Sandy river, Kentucky. +Also, on the sources of the Maramec and Spring rivers, Missouri, +accompanied by the brown oxide of iron. + +46. NATIVE COPPER. Scattered masses of this metal have been +found on Big river, and also in a shaft sunk near Harrisonville, +Illinois. Nothing, however, is known in America, to equal the vast +quantities of this metal found in the trap veins on the banks of lake +Superior. + +47. SULPHATE OF COPPER. On the Washita river, fifteen miles +below the Hot Springs, Arkansas. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[18] Long's Expedition. + +[19] From "opwaguu," (Algonquin) a pipe; and "lithos," (Gr.) a stone. + + + + +CATALOGUE OF MINERALS AND GEOLOGICAL SPECIMENS, (CONTINUED.) + +OCTOBER, 1819. + + + 1. Sulphate of lime. Arkansas. + + 2. Sulphuret of lead, in quartz. Washington county, Mo. + + 3. Agate, from Persia. Brought by Captain Austin. + + 4. Serpentine. Derby, Conn. + + 5. Galena upon crystallized quartz. Missouri. + + 6. Limpid quartz. Hot Springs, Arkansas. + + 7. Striped agate. St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 8. Sienite. Persia. + + 9. Silicious breccia. Illinois. + + 10. Sulphuret of lead. Shangum Mountain, Ulster county, N. Y. + + 11. Garnet, in micaceous schistus. Watertown, Litchfield county, Conn. + + 12. Galena, iron pyrites, &c., in quartz. Northampton, Mass. + + 13. Serpentine. Derby, Conn. + + 14. Red granite. River St. Francis, Madison county, Missouri Territory. + + 15. Red oxide of zinc. Sussex county, N. J. + + 16. Metalliferous limestone. Missouri. + + 17. Agate. Strawberry river, Arkansas Territory. + + 18. Dolomite. Stockbridge, Mass. + + 19. Lamellar galena. Bryan's mines, St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 20. Shell-limestone. Bermuda. + + 21. Arseniate of cobalt, with nickel, in actynolite. Chatham, Conn. + + 22. Galena in quartz. Shangum Mountain, N. Y. + + 23. Regulus of antimony. + + 24. Granular argillaceous oxide of iron (pea ore). Staten Island, N. Y. + + 25. Olivine. Europe. + + 26. Indicolite in lamellar feldspar. Chesterfield, Mass. + + 27. Brucite, (Gibbs,) silicious fluate of magnesia, in transition + carbonate of lime, with graphite. Sussex county, N. J. + + 28. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 29. Serpentine. Hoboken, N. J. + + 30. Sulphuret of antimony, with crystals of carbonate of lime. + Cornwall, England. + + 31. Chalcedony. Easthaven, Conn. + + 32. Arseniate of iron, in quartz. Connecticut. + + 33. Arseniate of cobalt, with iron pyrites and copper. Ireland. + + 34. Indurated talc. Hoboken, N. J. + + 35. Primitive granular limestone. Kingsbridge, N. Y. + + 36. Galena in quartz. Wales. + + 37. Carbonate and sulphuret of copper, with calcareous spar, in + sandstone. Schuyler's mines, Bergen county, N. J. + + 38. Iron pyrites (cubical). Haddam, Conn. + + 39. Ferruginous oxide of manganese. Greenwich street, New York city. + + 40. Green feldspar. Hoboken, N. J. + + 41. Chert. Wales. + + 42. Brown haematite. Salisbury, Conn. + + 43. Indicolite, in lamellar feldspar. Chesterfield, Mass. + + 44. Tremolite. Litchfield county, Conn. + + 45. Sappare (Cyanite of Cleveland). Litchfield county, Conn. + + 46. Chabasie. Deerfield, Mass. + + 47. Anthracite, with quartz. Rhode Island. + + 48. Fluate of lime. Derbyshire, Eng. + + 49. Asbestos. Milford, Conn. + + 50. Zeolite. Giants' Causeway, county of Antrim, Ireland. + + 51. Hydrate of magnesia. Hoboken, N. J. + + 52. Serpentine (verte antique). Milford, Conn. + + 53. Serpentine (pure). Milford, Conn. + + 54. Primitive granular limestone, equalling Carrara marble. + Stockbridge, Mass. + + 55. Precious serpentine. Hoboken, N. J. + + 56. Beryl, in granitic rock. Haddam, Conn. + + 57. Sediment in the Hot Springs of Washita, Arkansas Territory. + + 58. Asbestos. Milford, Conn. + + 59. Talc. Staten Island, Richmond county, N. Y. + + 60. Graphic granite. Staten Island, Richmond county, N. Y. + + 61. Amethystine quartz. Easthaven, Conn. + + 62. Prehinite. Hartford, Conn. + + 63. Jasper. Egypt. + + 64. Granite. Greenfield Hill, Conn. + + 65. Fibrous carbonate of lime, resembling zeolite. Hoboken, N. J. + + 66. Chalcedony. Easthaven, Conn. + + 67. Tremolite. Litchfield, Conn. + + 68. Sulphuret of antimony. Cornwall, Eng. + + 69. Sulphuret of antimony, Cornwall, Eng. + + 70. Agate. Corlaer's Hook, Island of New York. + + 71. Sulphuret of molybdena, in granite. Bergen, N. J. + + 72. Cellular mass of sandstone and quartz, with crystals of quartz. + Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 73. Crystallized carbonate of lime, with carb'te of copper. Same mines. + + 74. Micaceous oxide of iron. River St. Francis, Madison county, Mo. + + 75. Petrified wood. Locality unknown. + + 76. Sulphate of copper (blue vitriol), with carbonate of copper, in a + ferruginous sandstone. Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 77. Carbonate of copper. Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 78. Agate. South bank of White river, Arkansas Territory. + + 79. Sulphuret of lead, carbonate of copper, and yellow oxide of iron. + Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 80, 81, 82, and 83. Calcareous spar. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 84 and 85. Sulphuret of lead, in sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines, + Missouri. + + 86. Argentiferous lead-glance. Mine La Motte, Missouri. + + 87. Specular oxide of iron, with quartz. Bellevieu, Washington county, + Missouri. + + 88. Sulphuret of zinc. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 89. Yellow mamillary quartz, incrusted with sulphate of barytes and + haematitic iron. Old Mines, Missouri. + + 90. Lamellar sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 91. Brown haematite. Staten Island, N. Y. + + 92. Greenstone porphyry. River St. Francis, Madison county, Mo. + + 93. Cubical lead-glance, with calcareous spar. Bryan's mines, Mo. + + 94. Crested sulphate of barytes. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 95. Pyramidal sulphate of barytes (prism spar). Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 96. Lamellar sulphate of barytes, with galena. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 97. Lamellar with crystals of calcareous spar. Lead-mines, Missouri. + + 98. Blende, with iron pyrites. Elliott's mines, Missouri. + + 99. Flint. Locality unknown. + + 100. Granular sulphuret of lead. Mine La Motte, Missouri. + + 101. Pumice of the Missouri river. + + 102. Pseudo-volcanic product of same. + + 103. Ferruginous sulphate of barytes, on radiated quartz. Lead-mines + of Missouri. + + 104. Crested brown oxide of iron. Jefferson county, Mo. + + 105. Radiated quartz, incrusted with sulphate of barytes and iron. + Potosi, Mo. + + 106. Granular lead-ore (a sulphuret). Mine La Motte, Mo. + + 107. Brown oxide of iron, crystallized in octahedrons. Washington + county, Mo. + + 108. Mamillary quartz, on a basis of agate. River St. Francis, Mo. + + 109. Radiated quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 110. Radiated quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 111, 112, 113, 114, and 115. Mamillary quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 116. Chalky clay. Cape Girardeau, Mo. + + 117. Cubical pyrites, with calcareous spar. Mineral Fork, Mo. + + 118. Radiated quartz, incrusted with crystallized oxide of iron. + Jefferson county, Mo. + + 119. Tabular galena. Bryan's mines, Mo. + + 120. Radiated quartz. Jefferson county, Mo. + + 121. Radiated quartz. Potosi. + + 122. Hoary quartz (a variety unnoticed in the books). Potosi. + + 123. Galena, in heavy spar. Potosi. + + 124. Galena, on radiated quartz. Potosi. + + 125. Carbonate of lime, covered by crystals of quartz. Potosi. + + 126. Metalliferous limestone. Potosi. + + 127. Metalliferous limestone. Potosi. + + 128. Granite. Missouri. + + 129. Radiated limpid quartz. Lead-mines of Missouri. + + 130 and 131. Sulphuret of lead. Potosi. + + 132. Galena, with calcareous spar. Bryan's mines, Mo. + + 133 and 134. Galena, partially desulphurated by beat. Potosi. + + 135. Chalcedony. St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 136. Madreporite. Gallatin county, Illinois. + + 137. Primitive granular limestone. Carrara, Italy. + + 138. Egyptian marble. + + 139. Argillaceous porphyry. France. + + 140 and 141. Milford marble. + + 142 and 143. Philadelphia marble. + + 144. Egyptian marble. + + 145. Bituminous shale. + + 146. Cubical iron-ore. Jefferson county, Mo. + + 147. Regulus of nickel and cobalt. + + 148. Tourmaline. Greensburgh, Westchester county, N. Y. + + 149. Graphic granite. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 150. Fibrous gypsum. Nova Scotia. + + 151. Trap. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 152. Tremolite, in carbonate of lime. Somerstown, Westchester county, + New York. + + 153. Asbestos in steatite, on carbonate of lime. New York. + + 154. Asbestos in steatite, on carbonate of lime. New York. + + 155. Lamellar pyrites. Sussex county, N. J. + + 156. Graphite pyrites. Sussex county, N. J. + + 157. Pyrites, in hornblende. Sussex county, N. J. + + 158. Brass yellow pyrites. Sussex county, N. J. + + 159. Jaspery agate. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 160. Pyrites, with specular oxide of iron. Sussex county, N. J. + + 161. Sulphate of barytes. Schooley's Mountain, N. J. + + 162. Sulphate of barytes. Washington county, Mo. + + 163. Bitter spar. Hoboken, N. J. + + 164. Arseniate of cobalt. Chatham, Conn. + + 165. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 166. Granular quartz. St. Genevieve county, Mo. + + 167. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 168. Common striped jasper. Corlaer's Hook, N. Y. + + 169. Sulphate of lime. Nova Scotia. + + 170. Compact limestone. Herculaneum, Mo. + + 171. Limestone. St. Louis, Mo. + + 172. Fibrous quartz. Schuyler's mines, N. J. + + 173. Quartz. Dutchess county, &c., N. Y. + + 174. Sulphuret of zinc, in crystallized quartz. Ulster county, N. Y. + + 175. Brown haematite. Salisbury, Conn. + + 176. Greenstone porphyry. Madison county, Mo. + + 177. Galena. Missouri. + + +SHELLS. + + 1. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with Voluta mercatoria[*] included. + + 2. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with Voluta oliva[*] included. + + 3. Murex[*] canaliculatus, with serpulae attached and included. + + 4. Murex[*] carica, with two pairs Mya[*] arenaria. + + 5. Helix[*] ampullacea, with two small madrepores.[*] + + 6. Helix[*] ampullacea, with seven Cypraea[*] monita--African money. + + 7. Venus[*] mercenaria, with four small ones; a variety of species + included. + + 8. Venus[*] mercenaria, two valves, intermediate between the last + named. + + 9. Cardium[*] leucostomum. + + 10. Cardium[*] edule. + + 11. Buccinum[*] perdix, three shells. + + 12. Murex[*] peritoideus, two shells. + + 13. Venus[*] maculata. + + 14. Patella[*] fornicata, six shells. + + 15. Buccinum[*] testiculus, two shells. + + 16. Venus[*] Paphia, two valves. + + 17. Larva[*] of strombus gigas, six shells. + + 18. Buccinum[+] glabratum (Ebuma of Lamarck). + + 19 and 20. Cypraea[+] lirabica. + + 21. C. sordida,[*] Linn. C. carneola, Lam. + + 22. C. caput[*] serpentis. Viper's head; cowry. + + 23. C. exanthema.[*] (False argus.) + + 24. Buccinum[*] patulum. + + 25. Voluta prunum.[*] + + 26. Cypraea[*] lota, two shells. + + 27. Voluta guttrata.[+] + + 28. Bulla[*] gibbosa, seven shells. + + 29. Ostrea[*] edulis. + + 30. Peetsen.[*] + + 31. Venus[*] tigerina. + + 32. Tellina[*] radiata. + + 33. Dentralium.[*] + + 34. Nerita[*] mammilla. + + 35. Bulla[*] ampulla. + + 36. Voluta oryzy.[*] (Rice shells.) + + 37. Voluta[*] nivea. + + 38. Arca[*] glycymeris. + + 39. Cerea[*] noe. + + 40. Mytilus[*] modiolus. + + [* Occidental shells.] + + [+ Oriental shells.] + + + + +MINERAL RESOURCES OF THE WEST. + +A LETTER TO CHARLES G. HAINES, ESQ., SECRETARY OF THE ASSOCIATION FOR +THE PROMOTION OF INTERNAL IMPROVEMENTS AT NEW YORK. + + +NEW YORK, October 5th, 1819. + +SIR: In reply to your communication of the 4th inst., I submit +the subjoined remarks on the following questions:-- + +I. "To what extent are the lead, and other mines, worked in our western +country, either by the United States' government, or by individuals?" + +In the extensive region to which this inquiry has allusion, are found +numerous ores, salts, ochres, and other minerals; and the catalogue is +daily increasing, by the discovery of new substances, which promise to +become important to the commerce of the western country; but the only +mines worked are those of lead, iron, and coal. + +The lead-mines are situated in Missouri Territory, (formerly Upper +Louisiana,) and extend on the western bank of the Mississippi for a +distance of about one hundred miles, by forty in width, comprising the +present counties of Washington, St. Genevieve, Jefferson, and Madison. +The first lead-ore was discovered by De Lochon, La Motte, and others, +acting under the authority of the Company of the West, as early as 1720. +Since which period, the number of mines has been annually increasing by +new discoveries, under the jurisdiction which has been successively +exercised over that country by France, Spain, and the United States. The +number of mines now worked is forty-five; thirty-nine of which are in +Washington county, three in St. Genevieve, one in Madison, and two in +Jefferson. The quantity of lead annually smelted from the crude ore, I +have estimated at three million pounds; and the number of hands to whom +it furnishes employment, at eleven hundred. A considerable proportion of +these are, however, farmers, who only turn their attention to mining a +part of the year, when their farms do not require their labor; the +residue are professed smelters and miners, including blacksmiths and +others, whose services are constantly required. The price of lead at the +mines is now four dollars per cwt. It is worth four dollars and fifty +cents on the banks of the Mississippi, at St. Genevieve and Herculaneum, +and is quoted at seven dollars in Philadelphia. The ore exclusively +worked is the common galena, or sulphuret of lead, with a broad +glittering grain. It is found in detached pieces and beds in red clay, +and in veins in limestone rock, accompanied by sulphate of barytes, +calcareous spar, blende, quartz, and pyrites. It melts easily, yielding, +in the large way, from sixty to seventy-five per cent. of pure metal. By +chemical analysis I procured eighty-two per cent. of metallic lead from +a specimen of common ore at Mine a Burton. The residue is chiefly +sulphur, with a little carbonate of lime and silex. It contains no +silver, or at least none which can be detected by the usual tests. + +All the lead smelted at these mines is transported in carts and wagons +to the banks of the Mississippi, and deposited for shipment at +Herculaneum or St. Genevieve. The different mines are situated at +various distances, from thirty to forty-five miles in the interior, and +the cost of transportation may be averaged at seventy-five cents per +cwt. In summer, when the roads are in good order, it may be procured at +fifty cents; but in the spring and fall, when the roads are cut up, it +will cost one dollar. The transportation from Herculaneum and St. +Genevieve to New Orleans, may now be procured at seventy cents per cwt. +This is less than the sum paid, previous to the introduction of +steamboats on the Mississippi and its tributary streams. Hence, it costs +more to convey a hundredweight of lead forty miles by land, in wagons +and carts, than to transport the same one thousand miles (the distance +from Herculaneum to New Orleans) by steamboats. An improvement of the +streams of the mine country, so as to render them navigable at all +seasons for keel-boats and barges, is therefore a subject of the first +moment. The Maramec river, a stream of one hundred and eighty miles in +length, and a hundred yards wide at its mouth, which enters the +Mississippi eighteen miles below St. Louis, draws its waters from the +mining counties of Washington, Jefferson, St. Genevieve, and the +unincorporated wilderness on the south-east, and the fertile counties of +Franklin and St. Louis on the north-west; and its south-eastern +tributaries meander throughout the mine tract. The principal of these +are Grand river and Mineral Fork, which are navigable in spring and fall +for keel-boats of a small size, and might, I believe, be rendered so +throughout the year, at an inconsiderable expense. + +The lead-mines are exclusively worked by individuals, either under the +authority of leases obtained from the United States for a limited time; +on lands which were granted by the French or Spanish, and the titles to +which have been subsequently confirmed by the United States; on +unconfirmed lands; or in violation of existing laws. + +There are few sections of the valley of the Mississippi which are not +characterized by iron and coal. Iron-ore is abundant on the Ohio and its +tributaries, particularly on the Alleghany, Monongahela, and Muskingum. +It is worked at several foundries in the counties of Fayette, Armstrong, +and Alleghany, in Pennsylvania. The most noted furnaces are at +Brownsville, from which the extensive foundries at Pittsburgh are +chiefly supplied with pig-iron. It is also worked at Zanesville, on the +Muskingum, and on Brush creek, in Ohio; and a foundry at Cincinnati, and +another at Louisville, in Kentucky, are supplied with pig-iron from the +latter place. The ore is chiefly of that kind called the argillaceous +oxide, and produces iron which is well adapted for steam-engine +machinery, and for hollow-ware. + +Stone-coal, of an excellent quality, is abundant at Pittsburgh, where it +is largely consumed in iron-foundries, glass-furnaces, and other +manufactories, and also in private dwellings. The most extensive pits or +galleries are situated immediately opposite the city, on Coal Hill, +where it has been pursued into the hill eight or nine hundred yards. It +is found breaking out on the banks of the Alleghany at several places, +at and near Kittaning, where beds of it have been opened; and I have +even observed traces of it in the vicinity of Olean, near the head of +Genesee river, in the State of New York. On the Monongahela it extends +by Williamsport, Brownsville, and Greensburgh, to the vicinity of +Morgantown, in Virginia; and such is the abundance of this mineral, and +the uniformity and regularity which the geological structure of this +part of the country presents, that there is no considerable section of +it, within a circle of two hundred miles in diameter around Pittsburgh, +which does not afford beds of good inflammable coal. Pursuing the Ohio +down from Pittsburgh, it is successively worked at Wellsburg, Wheeling, +Gallipolis, and Maysville. In Illinois, on Great Muddy river, and at +Alton; in Missouri, at Florissant, and on Osage river; and in Arkansas, +on the Washita river; this valuable mineral has also been found. + +II. "What mines have been discovered?" + +V. "Where are the most valuable mines to be found in the western +country?" + +The reply to these inquiries has been, in part, anticipated by the +preceding details. Lead and other mines are, however, found in several +other sections of the western country. An extensive body of lead-ore is +found near Prairie du Chien, on the west bank of the Mississippi, about +five hundred miles above St. Louis. The ore is in the state of a +sulphuret, is easily reduced, and yields about sixty-two and a half per +cent. of metal. These mines are worked in an imperfect manner by the +savages, the Sacs and Foxes, the original owners of the soil; and +considerable quantities are annually brought down to St. Louis by the +north-west traders. Lead-ore is also found on the river Desmoines of +the Mississippi, where it was formerly worked by the French--on the +Osage, Gasconade, and Mine river of the Missouri; on the White river and +its tributaries; on the St. Francis; and on the Arkansas, where it is +combined with a small proportion of silver. It is also found at +Cave-in-Rock, Gallatin county, Illinois, accompanied by fluor spar; at +Drennon's Lick and Millersburgh, in Kentucky; and on New river, at +Austinville, in Wythe county, Virginia. At the latter place, it has been +worked without interruption for nearly fifty years; and the mines still +continue to be wrought. The ore is galena, accompanied by the carbonate +of lead, and the earthy oxide of lead; the latter of which is worked in +the large way, as is said, to a profit. + +Zinc is found in Washington county, Missouri, in considerable +quantities; but only in the state of a sulphuret. + +Copper has been found in small masses, in a metallic state, on Great +Muddy river, and at Harrisonville, Monroe county, Illinois. A grant of +land made to P. F. Renault, in 1723, at Old Peoria, on the Illinois +river, specifies the existence of a copper-mine upon it; but the most +remarkable bodies of copper which the globe affords, are stated to exist +on the western shores of Lake Superior, and on the Upper Mississippi. It +is found in the metallic state, but accompanied also, as is said, by the +sulphuret and carbonate of copper. The ores stretch over a very +extensive region, and have been traced as low as the falls of St. +Anthony. There is, indeed, reason to believe that copper is disseminated +from the west bank of Great Muddy river, in Illinois, in a north-west +direction, to the western shore of lake Superior, as all the streams, so +far as observed, which flow either north or south at right angles with +such a line, afford traces of copper. Thus, the Kaskaskia, the Illinois +and its tributaries, the St. Peter, Wisconsin, and the southern forks of +the Wabash and Miami, all furnish specimens of copper, as well as lead, +zinc, and iron. An attempt was made by President Adams to explore the +copper-mines of the north-west; but I know not what success attended the +undertaking. Considering the certainty with which all travellers, since +the days of Carver, have spoken of the existence of these mines, with +the daily concurrent testimony of traders from that quarter, and their +great importance in a national point of view, it is matter of surprise +that they have been so long neglected. Is not the present an auspicious +time for authorizing a mission into that quarter, for the purpose of +exploring its physical geography? + +Iron is a mineral common to all parts of the western country. One of its +most remarkable localities is the head of the river St. Francis, in +Missouri Territory, where it extends through a considerable part of +Madison and Washington counties. The most noted body is called the Iron +Mountain, and is situated about forty miles west of the Mississippi, in +Bellevieu, Washington county. The ore is here found in immense masses, +and forms the southern extremity of a lofty ridge of hills, which +consists chiefly of red granite, but terminates, in a rich alluvial +plain, in a mass of solid ore. It is chiefly the micaceous oxide, +accompanied by the red oxide, and by iron-glance. It melts very easily, +producing a soft, malleable iron. + +Coal is not less common, and may be considered among those extensive +mineral formations which stretch, in so remarkable a manner, throughout +the vast basin included between the Alleghany and Rocky mountains. Salt +and gypsum may also be referred to the same great geological formations, +as they are to be traced, accompanying each other, from the western +section of New York, to the southern banks of the Arkansas, where +immense quantities of salt and gypsum exist. Clay, flint, ochre of +various kinds, saltpetre, alum, reddle, soapstone, plumbago, oil-stone, +marble, serpentine, &c., may be enumerated among the useful minerals of +less importance, which characterize that region. + +III. "To what extent and advantage do you think the mines might be +worked, under proper management and superintendence?" + +IV. "Are the laws of Congress, which have been passed in relation to our +lead-mines, salutary in their operation?" + +I have stated the amount of lead annually produced by the Missouri mines +at three millions of pounds, which, on reflection, I think is +sufficiently high. But there are numerous difficulties opposed to the +successful progress of mining in that country, by the removal of which, +the amount would be greatly augmented. Some of these difficulties arise +from the peculiar nature of the business, from a want of skill, or of +mining capital in those by whom mining operations are conducted; but by +far the greatest obstacle results from the want of a systematic +organization of the mining interest by the United States, or from +defects in existing laws on the subject. + +Immediately after the occupation of Louisiana by the United States, +inquiry was made into the situation and extent of the mines; and a law +was passed, reserving all mines discovered on the public lands, and +authorizing the territorial executive for the time being to lease out +such mines for a period of three years. A radical defect in this law +appears always to have been, that there was not, at the same time, +authorized the appointment of a specific agent for the general +management and superintendence of mines. Such an officer has long been +called for, not less by the public interest, than by the intelligent +inhabitants of the western country, who feel how nearly a proper +development of its mineral wealth is connected with their individual +prosperity and national independence. The superintendent should reside +in the mine country, and such a salary should be attached to the office +as to induce a man of science to accept it. His duty should be to report +annually to Congress the state of the mines, their produce, new +discoveries, and proposed alterations in existing laws. He should lease +out and receive rents for the public mines--prevent the destruction of +timber on mineral lands, and the working of mines without authority, and +should be charged with the investigation of the physical and +geographical mineralogy of the country. At present, the most flagrant +violations of the laws are practised--mines are worked without +leases--wood is destroyed on lands which are only valuable for the wood +and the lead-ore they contain; and the government derives but a small +revenue from those celebrated mines, which, whether we consider their +vast extent, the richness of the ore, or the quantity of metal they are +capable of annually producing, are unparalleled by any other mineral +district in the world. + +There is another feature in the existing law, which is not beneficial in +its operation. It is that clause restricting the terms of leases to +three years. To embark in mining operations with profit, it is necessary +to sink shafts and galleries, build engines, and erect other necessary +works, which are, in some degree, permanent in their nature, and require +much time and expense in their completion. A considerable part of the +period must, therefore, elapse before the mine can be put in a state for +working; and no sooner is that done, and it begins to afford a profit, +and promises a reward for the expense incurred, than the expiration of +the lease throws all these works into the hands of some new adventurer, +or more successful applicant. This prevents many from engaging in mining +on the public lands, and especially those who would be best able to +prosecute the business; and of the number who take leases, a great +proportion continue to pursue the desultory method of mining in +alluvial[20] ground, introduced at an early period by the French, but +which is attended with very great uncertainty. + +Improvements remain also to be introduced in regard to the processes of +mining, the furnaces employed, and the method of raising the ore. +Inseparable from this subject is the distribution of more enlarged +practical and scientific views of mining and minerals generally, which +might, in a great degree, be effected by the dissemination of practical +treatises on the subject, or by the employment of experienced and +skilful miners from Europe. + +When such improvements shall be effected, with others to which it is not +necessary here to advert--when miners are properly secured in the object +of their pursuit, either by permanent purchases from government, or by +leases for a long period of years--and when the facilities for +transportation which that country is destined to afford, by the improved +navigation of its streams, and by the introduction of turnpikes, roads, +and bridges, are introduced, there is reason to conclude that the +annual amount of lead produced will far surpass the proceeds of those +mines under the present arrangement, and, indeed, it is impossible to +calculate the extent to which it may be carried. It is, perhaps, a +moderate estimate to say, that they are capable of being made to yield, +by judicious management, six millions of pounds of lead per annum, and +that they will furnish employment to three thousand hands. + +During my late tour throughout the western country, including nearly a +year's residence in the interior of Missouri, I devoted much time to +this interesting subject, and have been enabled to collect a body of +facts on the physical resources and character of that country, and +particularly of its mines and minerals, which it is my design to lay +before the public. I must, therefore, refer you to this work, which is +now in press, for further details on this subject, and, in the mean +time, I beg your indulgent perusal of this hasty outline. + + With respect, Sir, + Your obedient servant, + HENRY R. SCHOOLCRAFT. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[20] This word is used in its common acceptation in 1819. + + + + +GEOGRAPHY. + +MISSOURI. + + +When Louisiana was admitted into the Union as an independent State, all +that part of the territory situated north of 33 deg. north latitude, and +formerly known as Upper Louisiana, was erected into a separate +territorial government, under the name of Missouri. This term is the +name of a tribe of Indians who formerly dwelt near the Missouri river. +The Territory also included those boundless plains and unexplored +countries stretching from north to south, at the foot of the Rocky +mountains, and which pass into the province of Texas on the south, and +are bounded by the western line of Louisiana on the east. In the month +of March of the present year, the southern part of Missouri Territory, +including the unincorporated regions on the west and south-west, was +erected into a separate Territory, under the name of Arkansas. The +regions to the north-west may be considered as an unincorporated +wilderness, where the authority of the United States, so far as the +Indian title has been extinguished, is maintained in detached posts and +garrisons, under the immediate government of military commandants. The +bounds of Missouri, as designated in the late law respecting that +country, are as follows: beginning on the Mississippi river, in latitude +36 deg. north, and running due west on the latitude line to the river St. +Francis, thence up that river to 36 deg. 30' north latitude, thence west to +a point due south of the mouth of the river Kanzas, thence north to a +point opposite the mouth of the river Desmoines, thence east to the +Mississippi river, and down the middle of that river to the place of +beginning. + +It embraces some of the most prominent geographical features of the +western country, and, from the meeting of such mighty streams on its +confines, and its relation to all the country situated north and west of +it, must become the key to all the commerce of those regions, and is +destined to have a commanding influence on the surrounding States, and +on the political character and mutations of that country. It is bounded +by the States of Illinois and Kentucky, from which it is separated by +the Mississippi river on the east and north-east, and by the Territory +of Arkansas on the south. + +The country west of the Mississippi differs, in some respects, from any +other section of the western country, and affords a variety in its +physical aspect which is nowhere else to be met with. A great proportion +of the lands in this Territory are of the richest kind, producing corn, +wheat, rye, oats, flax, hemp, and tobacco, in great abundance, and in +great perfection. The lands bordering on the Missouri river, as far as +the Territory extends, are rich beyond comparison. They consist of black +alluvial soil, of unknown depth, and partaking largely of the properties +of marl; and the heavy growth of forest trees by which it is covered, +indicates the strength of the soil. As you recede from the banks of the +rivers, the land rises, passing, sometimes by almost imperceptible +gradations, and sometimes very abruptly, into elevated barrens, flinty +ridges, and rocky cliffs. A portion of the Territory is, therefore, +unfit for cultivation, but still serves as the matrix of numerous ores, +which are distributed abundantly in the hills and mountains of the +interior. There is very little land of an intermediate quality. It is +either very rich or very poor; it is either bottom-land or cliff, +prairie or barren; it is a deep black marl, or a high bluff rock; and +the transition is often so sudden, as to produce scenes of the most +picturesque beauty. Hence, the traveller in the interior is often +surprised to behold, at one view, cliffs and prairies, bottoms and +barrens, naked hills, heavy forests, rocks, streams, and plains, all +succeeding each other with rapidity, and mingled with the most pleasing +harmony. I have contemplated such scenes, while standing on some lofty +bluff in the wilderness of Missouri, with unmixed delight; while the +deer, the elk, and the buffalo, were grazing quietly on the plains +below. + +Situated between the 36th and 40th degrees of north latitude, the +Territory enjoys a climate of remarkable serenity, and temperate warmth. +That clear blue sky, so much admired by the aborigines, is +characteristic of the country; and an atmosphere of unusual dryness, +exempts the inhabitants from those pulmonary complaints which are more +or less the consequence of a humid atmosphere. A country so situated +cannot fail to prove genial to the vegetable kingdom. It would be +difficult to point out a section of country which affords a more +interesting field for the botanist. Its prairies and barrens are covered +with a profusion of wild flowers, shrubs, and plants; and its cultivated +fields yield to the hands of the planter, a great proportion of the +useful vegetables of the earth. Corn succeeds remarkably; no country +surpasses the banks of the Missouri for the vigor of its crops. Wheat, +rye, oats, flax, and hemp, are also raised with advantage. Tobacco is an +article recently introduced, but is found to succeed well, and the lands +are said to be well adapted to its growth. Cotton is raised in the +southern part of the Territory for family use, but is not an +advantageous crop for market. The climate and soil are also adapted to +the growth of the sweet or Carolina potato, and to fruit-trees of +various kinds. The peach and the apple are most generally cultivated. Of +wild fruits, the woods afford abundance; among which, the grape, +persimmon, papaw, pecan, and filbert, are conspicuous. Some varieties of +the grape are delicious, and they are very common at the mines, where +the inhabitants prepare a wine from them, which has a pleasant flavor. + +The population of the Territory, exclusive of the aborigines, has been +stated at 46,000, the greatest proportion of whom have emigrated into it +within the last five years. They consist of people from various parts of +the United States and Europe. A large number are from Tennessee, +Kentucky, New York, and New England. The original inhabitants were +French and Spanish. There are few of the latter remaining; but the +former constitute a respectable proportion of the population. + +The principal towns of Missouri are St. Louis, St. Genevieve, St. +Charles, and Franklin. Of a lesser size, are Herculaneum, Potosi, New +Madrid, Cape Girardeau, Jackson, Chariton, Florissant, and Carondelet. +St. Louis is the capital of the Territory, and by far the largest town +west of Cincinnati, Ohio. It consists of about 550 houses and 5000 +inhabitants, and has two banks, three houses for public worship, a +post-office, theatre, land-office, and museum, including forty stores, +with several mills, manufactories, &c. It is eligibly situated on the +western bank of the Mississippi river, eighteen miles below the junction +of the Missouri, and, from its commanding situation, is destined to +become the emporium of the western country. + +Franklin, at Boon's Lick, on the Missouri, has 150 houses, is the +thoroughfare for emigrants to that quarter, and is surrounded by one of +the richest bodies of land west of the Alleghany mountains, to which +emigration is flowing with unexampled rapidity. + +St. Charles, situated twenty-one miles above St. Louis, on the Missouri, +is also a handsome and flourishing town. The same may be said of +Chariton, one hundred and eighty miles above, at the mouth of Chariton +river. + +No country in the world affords such an extent of inland navigation by +its streams, as the basin lying between the Alleghany and Rocky +mountains, whose congregated waters are carried to the ocean by those +stupendous natural canals, the Mississippi, Missouri, Ohio, and +Illinois. The Mississippi river itself, in whose current all these +majestic streams unite, and are discharged into the Mexican gulf, washes +the eastern boundaries of the Territory, from the mouth of the river +Desmoines to that of the St. Francis, a distance of more than five +hundred miles. The Missouri, swelled by its great tributaries, the +Yellowstone, Little Missouri, Whitestone, La Platte, Kanzas, and Osage, +passes diagonally nearly through its centre, affording on both sides a +widely-extended tract of soil transcendently rich, and bearing a +luxuriant growth of forest trees and plants, interspersed with prairie. +It is navigable, without interruption, from its junction with the +Mississippi to its falls, a distance of two thousand miles. + +The Ohio is a thousand miles in length from its head, at Pittsburgh, to +its junction with the Mississippi, and, in its passage, successively +washes the shores of Pennsylvania, Virginia, Ohio, Kentucky, Indiana, +and Illinois--shores which are covered with villages, towns, and +settlements, and lined with an industrious and hardy population. + +The Illinois is also a stream affording a great length of navigation, +and lands of superior quality, and has a natural connection with the +great north-western lakes, into which boats may, at certain seasons, +uninterruptedly pass. + +These rivers, communicating with all parts of the country by their +tributaries, afford the advantages of commercial exchange, trade, and +manufactures, to a greater extent, and a richer description of country, +than is anywhere to be found in Europe, Asia, or Africa. + +Of these advantages, the Territory of Missouri, occupying so commanding +a position in the geography of the country, must always partake largely, +and may, from the wealth already concentrated in its capital, St. Louis, +enjoy almost exclusively the trade of the Missouri and upper +Mississippi. + +The streams which originate within the lines described by the political +boundaries of the Territory, and which, either during their whole +course, or for a considerable distance, meander through it, are the +Osage, the Gasconade, Maramec, Salt river, St. Francis, and Black river. +Of a lesser magnitude are Mine river, Chariton, Currents, Fourche a +Thomas, Eleven-points, and Spring rivers; the four latter running +southerly into the Arkansas Territory, and discharging their waters into +Black river, which is itself a tributary of White river. + +The Osage originates in a prairie country, near the ninety-sixth degree +of west longitude, about one hundred miles north of the Arkansas, and, +after meandering in an east and north-east direction for a distance of +five hundred miles, unites with the Missouri one hundred and thirty +miles above St. Louis. In its course it is swelled by several +tributaries, the principal of which is the Little Osage, its great +south-eastern fork. This river affords, in its whole length, large +bodies of the choicest prairie-land, interspersed with woodland, and +occasionally with hills, and is navigable for moderate sized boats. Its +banks afford exhaustless beds of stone-coal, and some iron and lead is +found, while its upper forks reach into the country of the Pawnees--a +country rich in salt. The Osage Indians inhabit its banks; but a part of +their lands have been purchased by the United States. It is a very +beautiful stream, and situated in a delightful climate; and when its +borders are opened for emigration, and its resources properly drawn +forth, will support a large population, and a profitable trade. Its +fertile soil and genial climate entitle it to the rank of one of the +first tributaries of the Missouri. + +In estimating the length of western rivers, there is one circumstance +which is not properly estimated by an eastern reader. It is their +serpentine course, which is so remarkable, that, in running one hundred +miles on a geographical line, they will, by their great windings, +measure at least double that distance; so that a river stated to be one +thousand miles in length by its banks, cannot be calculated to traverse +a country of more than five hundred miles in extent; indeed, I believe +that a fair average of distances would show the geographical distance to +be less. + +The Gasconade enters the Missouri one hundred miles above St. Louis. Its +length is about two hundred miles, and it is navigable for half that +distance. It is made up of several streams running from a ridge of high +lands, separating the waters which fall on the north into the Missouri, +from those which flow on the south into the Mississippi. Its banks +afford but a small proportion of tillable lands, being bordered with +rocks and sterile hills. The rocks are, however, cavernous, and afford +saltpetre; and the hills are covered by pine timber, which is sawed into +boards and plank. In these two articles, the commerce of this river will +always principally consist. The current is rapid, and affords by its +fall many mill-seats, so that boats and rafts may descend with ease; but +its ascent is attended with great labor. On this stream are already +situated several saw-mills. + +The Maramec also originates in high lands, two hundred and fifty miles +south-west of its mouth, and is separated from the waters of the +Gasconade only by a dividing ridge of land. It is swelled in its course +by a great number of streams, the most noted of which are the Little +Maramec, Bourbuse, Fourche a Courtois, Big river, and Mineral Fork. It +forms a junction with the Mississippi eighteen miles below St. Louis, +where it is two hundred yards wide. It is only navigable about fifty +miles, except in high floods in the spring and fall, when most of its +tributaries may be ascended with boats. This stream waters the country +of the mines, and interlocks, by its affluents, with the Gasconade on +the west, and the St. Francis on the south. The mines of Missouri are +situated on its southern shores. + +Salt river enters the Mississippi one hundred and three miles above St. +Louis, and seventy-three miles above the mouth of the Illinois. The +settlements on its banks are rapidly progressing, and the lands are +noted for their fertility. + +The St. Francis originates, with Big river, in broken lands in the +southern part of Washington and St. Genevieve counties, and joins the +Mississippi five hundred miles below. The most noted bodies of iron-ore +in the western country lie on its head, at Bellevieu. The La Motte +lead-mines also lie along the banks of one of its tributaries. It +affords, in its course, a proportion of excellent land, mixed with some +that is rocky, and bordered near its mouth with much that is swampy, +low, and overflown. A raft of trees, about two hundred and fifty miles +above its mouth, obstructs the navigation, which would otherwise be good +to within fourteen miles of St. Michael, the seat of justice for Madison +county. + +Black river has its origin near the heads of the Gasconade and the +Maramec, and is swelled in its course by the river Currents, Fourche a +Thomas, Eleven-points, Spring and Strawberry rivers, and forms a +junction with White river about forty miles below Poke Bayou, where the +road to Arkansas and Red river crosses it. The banks of Black river, and +of all its tributaries, afford rich alluvial land of more or less +extent; but the intervening ridges are rocky and sterile. + +Although there is much high land in this Territory, there is perhaps +none which, strictly speaking, is entitled to the appellation of a +mountain. A ridge of high land, called the Ozark chain, commencing on +the banks of the Maramec, near the Fourche a Courtois, extends in a +south-west direction to the banks of White river, in Arkansas Territory, +a distance of about four hundred miles, and occasionally rises into +peaks of mountain height. This ridge serves to divide the waters of the +Missouri from those of the Mississippi; the streams on one side running +south into the latter, and those on the other running north into the +former. The body of red granite found on the head of the St. Francis, +lies in mountain masses, and forms, in connection with the accompanying +rocks, some of the most rude and terrific scenery, full of interest in a +mineralogical, as well as a geological point of view. + +In the preceding view of the lead-mines of Missouri, and in the +catalogue of minerals subsequently introduced, I have already +anticipated much that might with propriety be given here; it may +therefore be sufficient to give a brief synopsis of both. + +The lead-mines in this Territory are situated about forty miles west of +the Mississippi, and sixty miles south-west of St. Louis. They occupy a +district of country between the waters of the St. Francis and the +Maramec, one hundred miles in length, by about forty in breadth. The +first lead-ore was discovered by Philip Francis Renault and M. La Motte, +acting under the authority of the Company of the West, about the year +1720; since which period, the number of mines has been greatly augmented +by new discoveries. The quantity of lead annually smelted from the crude +ore, I have estimated at three millions of pounds; and the number of +hands to whom it furnishes employment, at eleven hundred. + +Iron-ore is found in very large bodies in Bellevieu, Washington +county--on Fourche a Courtois, where it is accompanied by manganese--on +Big river--on Platten and Joachim creeks--and on the waters of the St. +Francis and Black rivers. Stone-coal exists in large bodies at +Florissant, and in various places on the Osage river. + +On the banks of the Maramec and the Gasconade are found numerous caves, +which yield an earth impregnated largely with nitre, procured from it by +lixiviation. On the head of Currents river are also found several caves, +from which nitre is procured; the principal of which is Ashley's cave, +on Cave creek, about eighty miles south-west of Potosi. This is one of +those stupendous and extensive caverns which cannot be viewed without +exciting our wonder and astonishment, which is increased by beholding +the entire works for the manufacture of nitre, situated in its interior. +The native nitrate of potash is found in beautiful white crystals, +investing the fissures of the limestone rock, which forms the walls of +this cave; and several others in its vicinity exhibit the same +phenomenon. + +Of the number of inhabitants now resident in the Territory, I have +estimated eleven hundred to be engaged in mining; but the number was +much greater at a former period, one thousand men having been employed +at Mine a Burton alone. The residue of the population are farmers, +mechanics, and manufacturers, including professional men. There is also +another class of society, which I shall notice under the name of +hunters. The farming class is by far the largest, as the fertility of +the soil, and the advantage of procuring lands on easy terms, and in a +mild climate, afford the strongest and surest prospects of gain to the +emigrant. There are probably fewer mechanics than are required by the +existing population. The wages of mechanics of all kinds are very high. +A carpenter or bricklayer cannot be hired for less than two dollars per +day, and often receives more. Other mechanics are also in demand, +particularly in the new settlements; and these are increasing with such +rapidity, as to invite the emigration of skilful and industrious +artisans from all parts, with the sure prospect of success. + +The manufactures of the Territory, in addition to its grand staple, +lead, consist in the distillation of whiskey from rye and corn, in the +flouring of wheat, the fabrication of coarse cotton goods, and tow cloth +in private families, and of patent shot. Some white lead has been made +at St. Louis. A clothier's and fuller's works have been recently +established on Big river; and a number of tan-yards, where raw hides are +manufactured into leather, are in successful operation in various +sections of the country. + +Made up of emigrants from all other parts of the United States, and from +Europe, the inhabitants can hardly be said to have acquired an uniform +character. Hospitality to strangers, enterprise in business, ardor in +the pursuit of wealth, an elevated pride of country, and perseverance +under the pressure of many difficulties growing out of the infancy of +the settlements, are the most conspicuous traits in the character of the +inhabitants west of the Mississippi. They are robust, frank, and +daring. Taught, by the hardships and dangers incident to a frontier +settlement, to depend for security and success upon their own individual +exertions, they rely little upon extraneous help, and feel that true +independence, flowing from a conviction that their own physical +exertions are equal to every call, necessity, and emergency of life. +Observations drawn from habitual intercourse, and from witnessing their +public debates, would also lead us to conclude, that their enjoyments +arise more from those active scenes attendant upon adventures which +require corporeal exertion, than from the arts of peace, refinement, and +intellectual research. + +Duelling is unfortunately prevalent in Missouri; and the practice, while +it continues to receive the sanction of men occupying the first rank in +society, cannot be expected to fall into disrepute, but must, on the +contrary, continue to exert its influence over other classes of the +community, and to involve, in some measure, in its consequences, those +who from principle are opposed to it. + +Those scenes of riot and atrocity, however, which have been imputed to +the inhabitants of the mines by former travellers, do not now exist; the +most beneficial changes having been effected in the state of society in +that country. Emigration has added to the former population an accession +of talents and intelligence, which has served to mark the society at the +mines with much of the hospitality, decorum, and refinements of older +settlements. + +The first inhabitants of this part of ancient Louisiana were French and +Spanish; the former of whom still constitute a considerable proportion +of the population, but of the latter there are very few remaining. The +French language is therefore spoken, in many settlements, almost +exclusively; and many of the Americans have found it advantageous to +acquire a knowledge of that tongue. + +The hunter class of the population is composed of persons from various +sections of the Union, who have either embraced hunting from the love of +ease or singularity, or have fled from society to escape the severity of +the laws, and to indulge in unrestrained passion. Learning and religion +are alike disregarded, and in the existing state of society among the +Missouri hunters, we are presented with a contradiction of the theories +of philosophers of all ages; for we here behold the descendants of +enlightened Europeans in a savage state, or at least in a rapid state of +advance towards it. These hunters are chiefly located on the White, +Arkansas, and Red rivers. Their numbers may be computed at a thousand or +fifteen hundred. The late division of the Territory will throw nearly +all of them into Arkansas. + +The principal tribe of Indians in this Territory are the Osages, a +powerful nation residing on the Osage river. They are remarkable for +their tall stature, and their fine proportions. It is very rare to see +any of them under six feet. They inhabit a delightful country, and are +in amity with the United States. Their chiefs are hereditary, and in war +they fight on horseback. Their warriors are called _braves_, to which +honor no one can arrive without having previously plundered or stolen +from the enemy. Hence, plundering and stealing are acts of the greatest +merit, and demand rewards proportionate to the adroitness or extent of +the act. They are also in the habit of plundering white hunters and +travellers, but are never known to commit murders on such occasions. + +A part of the ancient and once powerful tribes of Shawnees and +Delawares, also inhabit this Territory. They are located on the banks of +Apple creek and Fourche a Courtois. + +Many of the plantations and mines are worked by slaves, and among them +are to be found blacksmiths and carpenters, whose services are extremely +valuable to their masters. The introduction of slavery into this section +of the western country, appears to have taken place at an early day, and +it has led to a state of society which is calculated to require their +continued assistance. + + + + +HOT SPRINGS OF WASHITA. + + +The attention of the traveller in the interior of Missouri and Arkansas, +is frequently arrested by the novelty of the scenery, and the wild and +singularly fanciful aspect of the country; he is often induced to stop, +to survey some cavern, water-fall, high, loose-hanging cliff, or other +natural phenomenon. It is in this light that those natural curiosities, +the Hot Springs of Washita, will be found to reward attention. + +These springs, which have been known for many years, are situated on a +stream called Hot Spring creek, which falls into the Washita river eight +miles below. They lie fifty miles south of the Arkansas river, and six +miles west of the road from Cadron to Mount Prairie, on Red river. + +The approach to the Springs lies up the valley of the creek, which is +partly made up of its waters. On leaving the banks of the Washita, the +face of the country almost imperceptibly changes from a rich soil, +covered with a luxuriant growth of trees, to a sterile mineral tract. On +the right hand rises the Hot Mountain, with the springs issuing at its +foot; on the left, the Cold Mountain, which is little more than a +confused and mighty pile of stones; and the view in front is terminated +by a high point of land, which makes down gradually into the valley, and +separates the creek into two forks, of nearly equal size. + +The Hot Mountain is about three hundred feet high, rising quite steep, +presenting occasionally ledges of rocks, and terminating at top in a +confused mass of broken rocks, with here and there a pine or oak tree. +Its sides, notwithstanding their sterility and the steepness of the +ascent, are covered by a most luxuriant growth of vines, particularly +muscadine, the fruit of which is delicious. + +The Cold Mountain is separated from the Hot by a valley of about fifty +yards wide, through which the creek flows; it is nearly as steep as the +other, about of an equal height, and terminates in the same confused +manner. Some pine trees are found on it, but its sides are destitute of +vegetation. + +The springs issue near the foot of the Hot Mountain, at an elevation of +about ten feet above the level of the creek. They are very numerous all +along the hill-side, and the water, which runs in copious streams, is +quite hot. It will scald the hand, and boil an egg hard in ten minutes. +Its temperature is considered that of boiling water; but Dr. Andrews, of +Red river, tells me that it cannot be reckoned over 200 deg. of Fahrenheit. +There is a solitary spring, situated seventy feet higher than the +others, on the side of the mountain; but it is also of an equal +temperature, and differs in no respect from those below. Evaporation +produces a dense fog, which hangs over the springs, and upon the side of +the hill, looking at a distance like a number of furnaces in blast. It +is probably the condensation of this fog by the cold air at night, which +produces such a rank growth of vines on the side of the mountain, where, +otherwise, there would hardly exist a sign of vegetable life. + +An idea of the beneficial effects of this water is generally prevalent +throughout the Territory, and numbers annually resort to the springs. +They are found serviceable in rheumatisms, paralysis, pains in the +breast, and all chronic and nervous complaints. The method of using the +water is various. Bathing and sweating are generally resorted to. It is +also drunk as hot as can be borne, and is not, like ordinary warm water, +productive of nausea in the stomach. Of the chemical or medicinal +properties of the water, little is known, as no accurate analysis has +been made. The water appears clear, pure, and beautiful; it deposits a +sediment, which is sometimes red, and in other places green or yellow. +Some of the springs have a petrifying quality. The warmth of the water, +acting along the courses of the streams, has a stimulating effect on the +vegetation. + +There is abundance of a beautiful green moss growing in the springs, +near their edges; and their devious courses to the creek below are only +indicated by a more vigorous growth of grass and moss all along the +borders, and a brighter green. + +The mineralogical character of the country around the springs is highly +interesting. Three miles above is a quarry of oil-stone, of a peculiar +and valuable kind. It has a very compact texture, is heavy, translucent, +and gives a fine edge to a razor. The rock formations here are +limestone, slate, and quartz. Veins of white quartz, four or five feet +in width, are found running through the slate rock. Fine crystals of +limpid quartz are also abundant in the neighborhood. At the cove on +Washita river, fifteen miles below the springs, there is a body of +magnetic iron-ore; sulphates of copper and zinc, and sulphuret of iron, +in cubical crystals, occur in the same locality. + +These springs, geologically, exist in a primitive formation, which may +be considered the southern termination of the Ozark chain. Ancient +volcanic forces have raised the beds of slate, sienite, and greenstone, +of the chain, to their present elevations. The waters owe their heat to +these long-extinguished, but deep-slumbering fires, which may hereafter +break out into new activity. + + + + +UNICA, OR WHITE RIVER + + +In order duly to estimate the magnitude, position, character, and +importance of any of our great western rivers, it is necessary to +consider the relation they bear to each other, and to the surrounding +country. A mere topographical description of an isolated section of +country--a mountain, a stream, or a mine--may possess its value; but +without a survey, however cursory, of the contiguous regions, it must +lose much of its interest to the general reader, and much of its utility +to the geographical student. It will be necessary, therefore, to cast a +glance at the extensive country in which this river lies, before its +individual consideration can be profitably commenced. + +In looking on the map of ancient Louisiana, the most striking physical +trait presented is the Rocky mountains, extending from Mexico into the +unexplored regions north and west of lake Superior, with the del Norte, +Red river, Arkansas, Kanzas, La Platte, and Yellowstone, all issuing +from its sides near the same point, and uniting (with the exception of +the former) at different points in the vast basin below, with the +Missouri, the Ohio, and the Mississippi, in whose congregated floods +they roll on to the Mexican gulf. Other streams traverse the country; +but these are the principal rivers of Louisiana, whose heads rest on the +Rocky mountains. Immediately at the foot of these mountains commence the +almost interminable plains of sand, or Kanzian desert, stretching from +north to south for more than a thousand miles, and with an average +breadth of six hundred. To this succeed the highlands and mountains of +the present Territories of Missouri and Arkansas, which preserve a +pretty exact parallelism, from north to south, with the Rocky mountain +chain, and give rise to several rivers of secondary magnitude. This +again is bounded by the alluvial tract of the Mississippi, being the +third grand parallel division presented by the surface of the soil. +Through these, the Red river and the Arkansas hold their unaltered +course, and reach the Mississippi without a fall; while the Kanzas, the +La Platte, and the Yellowstone, bending northward, reach the Missouri, +without meeting any mountains to oppose their progress. The rivers of +secondary magnitude, whose origin is east of the highlands bordering the +western desert, are the Teche, Vermillion, Tensaw, Washita, Little +Missouri, Courtableau, Boeuf, Little Red, Grand, White, Black, Osage, +Maramec, Gasconade, and St. Francis rivers. Of these, White river, a +stream hitherto almost wholly unknown, or only known to hunters, and +which has not received its deserved rank on any existing map, is one of +the most considerable. It was therefore with surprise that I found, on +travelling into those remote regions, so considerable a stream unnoticed +by geographers, or only noticed to attest their want of information +respecting its size, length, tributaries, character, productions, and +importance. I therefore concluded that a summary of these particulars, +as observed by myself during a tour into that quarter, would be an +acceptable piece of service, and, with this view, began these +observations. + +White river originates near the ninety-seventh degree of west longitude, +and about the thirty-sixth of north latitude, and, after running in a +very serpentine course for thirteen hundred miles, enters the +Mississippi fifty miles above the mouth of the Arkansas, and seven +hundred above New Orleans. Its waters, unlike most of the western +rivers, are beautifully clear and transparent, being wholly made up of +springs that gush from the diluvial hills which are found, for more than +half its length, within a few miles of, and often immediately upon, its +banks. So much of the country through which it runs, is, therefore, +sterile and rough; but the immediate margin of the river uniformly +presents a strip of the richest alluvial bottom-land, from a quarter of +a mile to a mile and a half in width. On this, corn, wheat, rye, oats, +flax, hemp, and potatoes, have a vigorous growth; the mildness of the +climate, and the fertility of the soil, combining to render it one of +the most favorable of all countries for the pursuits of agriculture. +Cotton also succeeds on the banks of this river as high up as +settlements have extended, and will hereafter be an important item among +its agricultural productions. The district of tillable land on this +river, like many others west of the Mississippi, is chiefly confined to +its banks. Bordering this, is found a chain of hills on either side, +which sometimes close in upon the river's banks in perpendicular cliffs; +and the adjacent country may in general be considered as sterile. To +this remark, all its tributaries are exceptions; for they invariably +afford, however small, tracts of the most fertile land, covered with a +heavy growth of forest trees and underbrush. The cane is also common to +this stream in its whole course, and affords a nutritious food for cows, +horses, and hogs, who are fond of it, and fatten upon it. This plant +being an evergreen, cattle and horses may feed upon it all winter; and +it is accordingly given to them, as a substitute for hay, by the Indians +and hunters. + +The only inhabitants on the upper part of White river, so far as +inhabitants have penetrated, are hunters, who live in camps and log +cabins, and support themselves by hunting the bear, deer, buffalo, elk, +beaver, raccoon, and other animals, which are found in great plenty in +that region. They also raise corn for bread, and for feeding their +horses. They seldom, however, cultivate more than an acre or two, +subsisting chiefly on animal food and wild honey, and pay no attention +to the cultivation of garden vegetables, if I except some cabbages, +noticed at a few habitations. When the season of hunting arrives, the +ordinary labors of a man about the house and cornfield devolve upon the +women, whose condition in such a state of society may readily be +imagined. The inhabitants, in fact, pursue a similar course of life with +the savages, having embraced their love of ease, and their contempt for +agricultural pursuits, with their sagacity in the chase, their mode of +dressing in skins, their manners, and their hospitality to strangers. + +The furs and peltries which are collected during repeated excursions in +the woods, are taken down the river at certain seasons in canoes, and +disposed of to traders, who visit the lower parts of this river for that +purpose. Here they receive, in exchange for their furs, woollen cloths, +rifles, knives, hatchets, salt, powder, lead, iron for horse-shoes, +blankets, iron pots, shoes, and other articles of primary importance in +their way of life. Those living near the cultivated parts of Lawrence +county, in Arkansas Territory, also bring down, in exchange for such +articles, buffalo beef, pork, bears' meat, beeswax, and honey, which are +again sold by the traders along the banks of the Mississippi, or at New +Orleans. Very little money is paid, and that in hard cash only; no +bank-bills of any kind being taken in that quarter. I happened to be +present, on my return from the head-waters of White river, at one of +these exchanges, where a further opportunity was offered of observing +the manners and character of these people. Bears' meat was sold at $10 +per cwt.; buffalo beef at $4; cows' beef at $3; pork, in the hog, at $3 +50; venison hams at 25 cents each; wild turkeys, the same; wild honey at +$1 per gallon; beaver fur, $2 per lb.; bearskins, $1 50 each; otter +skins, $2; raccoon skins, 25 cents; deerskins, 25 cents per lb. These +prices were considered high by the purchaser; but they were only +nominally so, as he paid them off in articles at the most exorbitant +rates. Common three-point or Mackinaw blankets were sold at $8 each; +butcher-knives at $2; rifle-locks at $8; common coarse blue cloth at $6 +per yard; coffee at 75 cents per lb.; salt at $5 per bushel; lead at 25 +cents per lb.; gunpowder at $2 per lb.; axes at $6 each; horseshoe-nails +at $3 per set, &c. The trade of this river is consequently attended with +profits which amply repay the risks and fatigues incident to a voyage in +that quarter. Vast quantities of furs and skins are annually brought +down this river, with some beeswax, honey, beef, bacon, &c.; and +whenever the hunter population yields to the farming and mechanical +class, the list of its productions will be swelled by corn, rye, wheat, +oats, flax, hemp, and cotton; a sufficiency of each of which has already +been raised, to show that the climate and soil are well adapted to their +culture. Its mineral products are also worthy of attention. Iron-ore, +lead, zinc, and manganese, have already been discovered; and among its +earthy minerals may be enumerated marble, agate, jasper, hornstone, and +rock crystal; specimens of which, with some others, I picked up during +my journey there. Caves with nitre are also common; and large forests of +pine timber, which will be wanted in the progressing settlements on the +Mississippi, are situated on its northern tributaries, and may be +floated down at an inconsiderable expense. + +White river runs through a section of country which, according to a +recent political division, belongs chiefly to the Territory of Arkansas; +but several of its tributaries originate in Missouri, the chief of which +are James river, Great North Fork, or Pine river, and Black river, with +its auxiliaries--Currents, Fourche a Thomas, Spring, Eleven-points, and +Strawberry rivers. + +About a hundred and fifty miles below the Pawnee mountains, the main +south fork of White river is joined by the War Eagle and Osage forks; a +region remarkable for the abundance of beaver found in its streams. In +the course of the succeeding two hundred miles, it is joined by King's +river and Tower creek on the south, and by Roaring fork and James river +on the north; the latter being by far the largest stream it has thus far +received, and contributing nearly as much water as all the others put +together. From the mouth of James river to its junction with the +Mississippi, it is successively joined by Long, Bull, Swan, Beaver, and +Big creeks, by the Little and Great North Forks, Black and Cash rivers, +on the north; and on the south by Bear and Crooked creeks, Buffalo Fork, +and Little Red river; and it is finally connected with the Arkansas +river by a natural canal called the _cut-off_, about thirty miles above +its junction with the Mississippi, which affords a navigable water +communication at all seasons. Many of the above tributaries are streams +of no ordinary magnitude, and afford boat navigation for many hundred +miles; they are all characterized by tracts of rich alluvial lands on +their banks. James river, Buffalo Fork, Great North Fork, Black river, +and Little Red river, merit individual attention. + +James river originates in the Ozarks, a few miles south of the +Gasconade, in Missouri Territory, and, after running in a south-west +direction for two hundred miles, in the course of which it is swelled by +Findley's river, and by other streams, forms a junction with White river +a thousand miles above the mouth of the latter. Its waters are as pure +as crystal; it lies under a climate the most mild, salubrious, and +delightful; and on its banks are situated a body of the most fertile and +beautiful lands which the whole valley of the Mississippi affords. The +timber on its banks is abundant; a remark which cannot with justice be +made of many parts of the adjacent country, and nothing can exceed the +vigor and the verdure of vegetable nature on the borders of this +beautiful stream. Prairies are also found within a mile of its western +banks, and extend towards the Grand Osage, as far as the eye can reach, +level as a graduated plain, and waving with tall grass, on which the +elk, the buffalo, and the deer, feed in countless numbers. + +Findley river forms a junction with this stream, near the centre of this +choice body of land, and about one hundred miles above its mouth. +Twenty miles above the junction of these streams, on the immediate banks +of James river, are situated some valuable lead-mines, which have been +known to the Osage Indians, and to a few White river hunters, for many +years. The Indians have been in the habit of procuring lead for bullets +at that place, by smelting the ore in a kind of furnace, made by digging +a pit in the ground, and casing it with some flat stones, placed so as +to resemble the roof of a house inverted; such is the richness of the +ore, and the ease with which it smelts. The ore has not, however, been +properly explored, and it is impossible to say how extensive the beds or +veins may prove. Some zinc, in the state of a sulphuret, is found +accompanying it. There is not one inhabitant on all this stream; my own +cabin, erected for a temporary purpose at the mines in January last, +being the only human habitation within two hundred miles of that place. + +Buffalo Fork originates near the north banks of the Arkansas, and, after +traversing a rocky country for about one hundred and eighty miles in a +north-east course, joins White river at the Buffalo Shoals, about seven +hundred miles above the Mississippi. It is a fine region for game, and +affords some good lands. + +The Great North Fork, or Pine river, is a stream of two hundred miles in +length, and a hundred yards wide at its mouth. Its waters are clear, +being entirely made up of springs, which are numerous all along its +banks; but the navigation is interrupted by rapids. It originates with +James river and the Gasconade, in a ridge of high land, which throws a +part of its waters into the Missouri, and a part into the Mississippi, +the streams running in opposite directions. In travelling into that +country, I accidentally arrived at the extreme head of this river, where +it consists only of some drizzling springs, and pursued it down, in all +its windings, to its junction with White river, about twelve miles below +the mouth of Buffalo Fork. It is bordered on both sides by limestone +bluffs, covered generally with tall pines, and affording some detached +strips of valuable land. On the whole, however, it must be considered a +sterile region, which will never admit of a dense population. The +bottoms are overrun by cane and brier, which render travelling extremely +fatiguing. + +This stream appears generally to have been considered by geographers as +the head of White river, which is accordingly, on most maps, made to +originate at this place. The error has been, in some degree, corrected +in Robinson's new map of Louisiana, lately published at Natchez, which +may be esteemed the best map extant respecting that section of country. +He calls it Pine river. + +Black river is a large, deep, and gentle stream, composed of numerous +auxiliaries, which draw their waters from the counties of Wayne, New +Madrid, and Lawrence; the two former lying in Missouri Territory, and +the latter in Arkansas. It is navigable with boats of the largest +burden, at all seasons of the year, for more than one hundred miles. +Little Black, Currents, Fourche a Thomas, Eleven-points, Spring, and +Strawberry rivers, are all streams of considerable size, coming in on +the west, and deserve particular notice on the future maps of that +country. Their banks afford choice bodies of fertile lands, which are +already the seat of many plantations and farms, where corn, rye, wheat, +oats, flax, hemp, and cotton, are raised in the greatest perfection, and +the settlements are rapidly increasing. Considerable quantities of beef +and pork are also put up for the New Orleans market, every facility +being afforded by the luxuriance of grass in the woods, and the +abundance of acorns in the fall, for raising and fattening hogs and +cattle. Lawrence county is generally considered among the first farming +districts west of the Mississippi. Davidsonville, the seat of justice +for this county, is situated on the west bank of Black river, at the +junction of Spring river. The settlements on Strawberry river, on the +Currents, Fourche a Thomas, Poke Bayou, and other places, are in a +flourishing condition. + +Little Red river issues near the sources of Buffalo Fork, and runs +parallel with the Arkansas for a great distance, but inclines gradually +to the north-east, and joins White river about two hundred miles above +its mouth. It affords a considerable body of choice land, but is subject +to very sudden rises, which overflow its banks, and have retarded, to +some extent, the further settlement of its valley. + +Such are the principal tributaries of White river; a stream which is +navigable, with keel-boats of thirty tons burden, to the foot of Buffalo +Shoals, a distance of seven hundred miles from its mouth, and may be +ascended with light vessels five hundred miles higher. It draws its +waters from a district of country about three hundred miles in width, by +seven or eight hundred in length, having on its borders and tributaries +large bodies of very rich lands, mixed with much that is poor and unfit +for cultivation; but, taking into view its advantageous situation for +commerce, its political relation to the two Territories, in a part of +each of which it lies, and the extensive bodies of farming-lands on +James river, Buffalo Fork, and Black river, we may anticipate the period +when a large population shall find their support on its banks--when +numerous villages and towns shall decorate its shores, and the +productive labor of its inhabitants swell greatly the commerce of the +western country, while they themselves command an important influence in +its political transactions. + +One of the most interesting events connected with the history of this +river, is the visit paid to it by De Soto in 1542. The place of his +crossing it is not certainly known. + + + + +STEAM NAVIGATION ON THE MISSISSIPPI. + + +Steamboats were first introduced on the Mississippi about 1812; and, +within seven years of that time, not less than fifty boats, of all +classes, had been built. The following list, which I made in 1819, +embraces all the steam-vessels which are known to have been put upon +that stream and its tributaries, prior to that era, and is believed to +give with accuracy their names and tonnage. + +Fulton's first successful experiment in the application of Savary's +steam-engine, as improved by Watt and Bolton, to the propulsion of +vessels, dates in 1807; so that but five years elapsed before the +invention was introduced, and twelve years before it was spread, on the +western waters. The impracticability of navigating those waters by the +force of sails, caused the invention to be hailed there with +acclamation; and this explains the cause of its rapid multiplication. + + No. Names. Tons. No. Names. Tons. + + 1. Etna 200 27. St. Louis Packet 150 + 2. Vesuvius 280 28. Ramapo 100 + 3. Orleans 200 29. Rising States 150 + 4. Alabama 300 30. Maid of Orleans 100 + 5. Columbus 400 31. Hamlet 100 + 6. Tamerlane 200 32. Perseverance 50 + 7. James Ross 250 33. Johnson 75 + 8. United States 500 34. Eagle 100 + 9. Paragon 250 35. Vesta 110 + 10. Thomas Jefferson 200 36. Harriet 40 + 11. Ohio 300 37. Constitution 45 + 12. General Jackson 100 38. Louisiana 60 + 13. Maysville 152 39. Governor Shelby 60 + 14. Exchange 154 40. Franklin 80 + 15. Volcano 140 41. Rifleman 60 + 16. Madison 100 42. Newport 45 + 17. Kentucky 60 43. Expedition 150 + 18. Hecla 100 44. General Clark 150 + 19. Napoleon 200 45. Henderson 150 + 20. Washington 150 46. Tornado 250 + 21. Buffalo 100 47. Elizabeth 175 + 22. James Monroe 70 48. Missouri Packet 100 + 23. Cincinnati 85 49. Post-Boy (for + 24. St. Louis 200 pas'gers only) + 25. General Pike 75 50. Western Engineer 40 + 26. Independence 100 ----- + Total 7,306 + +In addition to these, there are two new boats building at Pittsburgh, +one at Wheeling, one at Steubenville, one at Marietta, two at +Cincinnati, one at Frankfort, two at Shippingport, one at Madison, and +two at New Albany, making a total number of sixty-three. There are also +several more in contemplation, so that it is probable another year will +considerably augment the number. The first steamboat on the western +waters was built at Pittsburgh in 1811, eight years ago. Hence it +appears there has been an average increase of eight boats per annum; but +by far the greatest proportion have been built within the last three +years. + + 7306 tons, at 4 cents per lb. freight up from New Orleans, + amounts to $584,480 00 + 7306 tons, at 1 cent per lb. freight down to New Orleans 146,120 00 + 10 passengers down in each boat, at $60 39,800 00 + 5 passengers up in each boat, at $100 31,500 00 + ----------- + $801,900 00 + +It is presumable that each boat will perform three trips to and from New +Orleans per annum, which will make an aggregate amount of freight and +passage money of $2,405,700 per annum. From this, some idea of the +trade, population, and business of the vast valley of the Mississippi, +may be formed. And let it be remembered, at the same time, that the +transportation of merchandise is not wholly done by steamboats. The Ohio +and Mississippi are still lined with keel-boats and barges; and much of +the produce is still carried to market in flat-bottomed boats, of a +temporary construction, which are not calculated to ascend the stream, +and are therefore generally sold for a trifle, or abandoned. + +The following is extracted from a comparative statement of the increase +of the principal articles of produce which arrived at the New Orleans +market during a period of three years. + + + Productions. 1815. 1816. 1817. + + Bacon and hams, cwt. 7,000 13,000 18,000 + Butter, lbs. 500 1,800 + Cotton, bales 60,000 65,000 65,000 + Corn, bushels 120,000 130,000 140,000 + Flour, barrels 75,000 98,000 190,000 + Molasses, gallons 500,000 800,000 1,000,000 + Pork, barrels 8,000 9,700 22,000 + Sugar, hhds. 5,000 7,300 28,000 + Taffia, gallons 150,000 300,000 400,000 + Tobacco, hhds 5,000 7,300 28,000 + Wheat, bushels 95,000 + Whiskey, gallons 150,000 230,000 250,000 + + + + +ANTIQUITIES AND INDIAN HISTORY. + +SOME ARTICLES OF CURIOUS WORKMANSHIP FOUND IN AN ANCIENT BARROW. + + +An opinion is entertained by many well-informed persons in the United +States, that the country has, at some remote period, been inhabited by a +civilized people, prior to its settlement or subjugation by the savages. +To the many evidences furnished to strengthen this opinion, by the +remnants of fortifications, tumuli, &c., may be added the discovery of +several articles of antiquarian value, and of singular workmanship, of +glass, or antique enamel, lately made on the eastern shores of lake +Erie. + +I have had an opportunity of examining a specimen of these antique +glasses, and, on the authority of my informant, am enabled to remark +that they were taken up about two months ago, from an ancient barrow in +the town of Hamburg, where they were found deposited in an earthen pot. +Contiguous to this pot were also found a skull, and some other human +remains, thought to be of an unusual size. This mound, or supposed +repository of the dead, is situated in an uncultivated part of the town, +and several trees were growing upon it at the time the excavation was +made; some of which were judged to be upwards of two feet in diameter. + +The glass relic which I had an opportunity to examine, (and I am told +they are all alike,) is in the form of a large barrel-shaped bead, +consisting of a tube of transparent green glass, covered with an opaque +coarse red enamel. Its length is nine-tenths of an inch, its greatest +width six and a half tenths of an inch, and the bore of the tube +two-tenths of an inch. Near the circle of the bore of this tube, is an +aperture of the size of a large needle, perforating the tube from one +end to the other. The enamel which covers the tube of transparent glass +appears to have been ornamented with painting, in figures resembling a +spindle, or two inverted sections of a circle; but they are now hardly +perceptible, as the bead appears to have been considerably worn. + +But the circumstance most indicative of art in the making of this bead, +is a species of enamelling which has been performed both on the external +and internal surfaces of the tube, previous to its being covered by the +coarse red enamel. This second enamel is white, and, as the external +surface of the tube was not smooth, but in parallel _strie_ or veins, +exhibits the appearance of a white vine between the green tube and the +red enamel. This enamelling appears to have been done, not by melting on +any vitreous composition, as is practised at the present day, but by the +effect of calcination for some time in a low red heat. This, it is +known, will deprive glass, especially green glass, of its transparency, +and render the surface white to a certain depth. + +The composition of the tube of glass, I have judged to be simply a +silicious sand and an alkali, probably with a small addition of lime or +vegetable ashes. It is hard, and will not receive scratches like the +lead glasses; and I conclude from this circumstance that there is no +lead in the composition. Its color seems also owing to the impurity of +the materials employed, like the common window and bottle glass, and is +probably caused by a minute portion of iron, in the state of an oxide, +combined with the sand and alkali. + +The red enamel covering the tube, and the pot in which these glasses +were found, seem to have been constructed of similar materials, as they +differ very little in color, texture, or other external character. +Probably a very fusible brick-clay, highly impregnated with the oxide of +iron, and pulverized fragments of green glass, are the principal +ingredients of both. The earthen pot is manifestly constructed of +different materials from those employed for brown pottery at the present +period. It is a more imperishable substance, of a close texture, and +vitreous appearance. + +I shall not presume to speculate in opinions which discoveries of this +interesting nature are calculated to create; it may, however, here be +added, that the fabrication of these glasses would suppose a perfection +in the arts, which none of the Indian tribes inhabiting this country at +the period of its discovery, had arrived at. That if introduced by the +French from Canada, in their earliest communications with the Indians +inhabiting the western parts of the State of New York, a sufficient time +would hardly have elapsed for the growth of trees of such size as were +found upon the mound from which these relics were taken. And that, if +not introduced by the French at the period alluded to, we must refer +their manufacture back to a very remote date, and one on which Indian +tradition is wholly silent. + +Since visiting the western country, I have had occasion to notice a +similar discovery on Big river, in the Territory of Missouri. On opening +an Indian grave (or what was considered such) on the bank of this river, +several beads of glass, of a similar character, were found. They were +accompanied by many bones of the human frame, of extraordinary size, and +which indicated, to common observation, a stature of seven or eight +feet in height. The person appeared to have been deformed, either by +birth or accident, as the right jaw-bone ran in a straight line from the +mouth back, while the left preserved the usual curve. The excavation was +made near the edge of the stream, where the soil is a rich alluvion, and +covered by a heavy growth of forest trees, such as are peculiar to the +richest Ohio and Mississippi bottom-lands. We may add, that it +corresponds best with history and probability to attribute these relics +to the early period of the fur-trade. + + + + +ANCIENT INDIAN CEMETERY IN THE VALLEY OF THE MARAMEC RIVER. + + +In the autumn of 1818, the existence of a number of small tumuli, or +antique Indian graves, was made known in the valley of the Maramec. This +discovery was made about fifteen miles south of St. Louis. Curiosity led +several persons to visit the spot and examine them, and my attention was +thus called to the subject. It was conjectured that the bones found in +these graves were the remains of a race of beings much smaller than +those of the present day. + +The essential facts connected with these discoveries, are these:--The +tumuli, which are small, occupy a wood near the dwelling of a Mr. Long. +The attention of this gentleman was arrested by this smallness of +cemeterial dimensions, or place of burial. Drs. Walker and Grayson, of +St. Louis, proceeded to the spot, opened several of the graves, and +examined their contents. The length of the stature of the interred +persons, measured by their stony casings, varied from twenty-three +inches, to four feet two or three inches. But the skeletons, with the +exception of the teeth, were reduced to a complete limy substance, and +their forms destroyed. The graves had originally been cased with rude +flat stones at the sides, and also at the head and feet. A flat stone +had also, in some instances, been laid over the top, and earth piled on +the grave, above the surface of the ground, to the general height of +three feet. This was a characteristic feature, and seemed designed to +mark the locality. In this stony coffin, all the softer and destructible +parts of the body had submitted to decay, with the exception before +mentioned--the teeth. The examination of these became, therefore, the +principal source of interest. They found the enamel perfect, and were +surprised to discover that they were the teeth of rather young persons, +who had, however, passed the age of puberty. The molars and incisors +were of the ordinary dimensions and character of second teeth. The +jaw-bone of the first specimen examined, appeared to have its full +complement, except the dentis sapienta, which physiologists do not +generally recognize until after the ages of eighteen to twenty-three. + +Many graves were examined, which differed more or less in length, +between the extremes stated, but agreed in their general conformity of +parts; from all which, these gentlemen came to the conclusion that the +remains denoted a stature of inferior size, while appearances indicated +a remote antiquity as the epoch of burial, which might as well be +supposed to be five centuries as one. This antiquity was inferred, as +well from the reduction of the bones to their elements, as from the +growth of large trees upon the graves, the roots of which penetrated +into their recesses. + +Upon this exhibition of facts, a legal gentleman[21] of intelligence +calls attention, with great pertinency, to the ancient manners and +customs of the Indians, in the burial of their dead. + +"As yet, I have seen no attempt to account for the size and appearance +of these skeletons, upon any other supposition than that they are the +remains of a people far less in size than any known at the present day. +Unwilling to adopt a belief so contrary to the general order of nature, +and to the history of the human species, so far as it has been +transmitted to us, I shall hazard some conjectures upon the subject, +which I think will, in some measure, tend to dissolve the mystery that +hovers over these bones, and to reconcile their appearance with the +general history of our race. To be sure, Nature, in her sport, has now +and then produced monsters. A taste for the marvellous among travellers +and historians, has occasionally conjured up a race of giants, or a +nation of pigmies; but when the light of truth has reached us from the +distant corners of the earth, where they were said to dwell, we have +found them to assume the size, shape, and attitude of men, and nothing +more. So far as observation or history extends, we find the species +nearly the same in all ages and in all countries. Climate has had some +effect upon the size, and upon the complexion. The excessive cold of the +north has shortened an inch or two the necks of the Esquimaux, and the +heat of the south has colored the African. But what, in this genial +climate, should make dwarfs? It is here, if anywhere, that we should +naturally expect to find giants! All the other productions of nature are +here brought forth in the highest perfection. And shall _man_ here grow +a pigmy? Unless we are ready to adopt the opinion of certain +naturalists, that the human species are the legitimate descendants of +the apes, and that they once wore tails, and were of their diminutive +size--unless we are ready to believe the history of the Lilliputians, +and of Tom Thumb--I think we shall discard the idea of a nation of +dwarfs, as wholly preposterous. But how, on any other supposition, shall +we account for the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long? + +"None of the graves found there exceed four feet in length, many of +them fall short of three, and the teeth found in all of them show that +they contain the remains of human beings who had arrived at years of +maturity. The manners and customs of the Indians with respect to the +treatment of their dead, will, I think, solve all difficulties, and +satisfactorily account for these appearances, without doing violence to +nature. According to the testimony of travellers and historians, it has +been the custom among many tribes of Indians to hang their dead in +baskets upon trees and scaffolds, until their flesh was consumed, and +then to take them down, clean their bones, and bury them. There existed +an order of men among them called _bone-pickers_, with long nails like +claws, whose business and profession it was to clean the unconsumed +flesh from the bones, previous to burial. This custom still exists among +the Indians on the waters of the Missouri, and rationally accounts for +the appearances upon the farm of Mr. Long. The bones of a skeleton of +the ordinary size, when separated, would naturally occupy a grave of +three or four feet in length. It appears that in all the graves which +were opened, the bones, except the teeth, were reduced to a chalky +substance, so that it would be impossible to know, with any certainty, +in what state, condition, or form, they were deposited there. These +skeletons are said to rest on their sides. Taking this fact to be true, +it goes to strengthen my ideas on this subject. In burying a corpse, it +is natural, and, so far as we are acquainted, universally the custom, to +bury them with the face upwards. We can look upon our dead friends with +a melancholy complacency--we cast a long and lingering look after them +until they are completely shut from our view in the grave; and nothing +is more hard and heart-rending than to tear our last looks from them. It +is natural, then, that the body should be placed in such a position as +most to favor this almost universal desire of the human heart. But, in +burying a skeleton, it would be as natural to avert the horrid grin of a +death's-head from us. To face the grinning skeleton of a friend, must +fill us with horror and disgust. 'Turn away the horrid sight,' would be +the language of nature. If we adopt my supposition as correct in this +case, all the facts correspond with nature. But if we adopt the opinion +of a recent writer, our conclusions will be at war with nature, reason, +and universal observation." + +The following observations by the Rev. J. M. Peck, of St. Louis, may +also here be added: + +"One grave was opened which measured four feet in length; this was +formed by laying a flat stone at the bottom, placing one on each side, +one at each end, and covering the mouth with another. In the last +circumstance, this grave differed from the others that were opened; the +contents were a full-grown skeleton, with the head and teeth, part of +the spine, the thigh and leg bones, in a tolerable state of +preservation. The leg-bones were found parallel with the bones of the +thighs, and every appearance indicated, either that the corpse had been +entombed with the legs and thighs placed so as to meet, or that a +skeleton had been deposited in this order. The first opinion seems the +most probable, from the fact that a large stone pipe was found in the +tomb, which I understand is now in the possession of Mr. Long." + +Both implements of war, and of domestic use, are buried with the dead +bodies of the Indians; but it admits of a query if they are ever +deposited with the mere skeleton. + +"It is a well-known fact," says Bishop Madison, while writing on the +supposed fortifications of the western country,[22] "that, among many of +the Indian tribes, the bones of the deceased are annually collected and +deposited in one place, that the funeral rites are then solemnized with +the warmest expressions of love and friendship, and that this untutored +race, urged by the feelings of nature, consign to the bosom of the +earth, along with the remains of their deceased relatives, food, weapons +of war, and often those articles they possessed, and most highly valued, +when alive." + +This fact is substantiated from various respectable sources. The pious +custom of collecting the relics of the dead, which accident, or the +events of a battle, might have dispersed through the wilderness, easily +accounts for the graves on the Maramec, as well as explains the origin +of the artificial mounds in the vicinity. If these were opened, there +would be found promiscuously deposited the bones of the aborigines, +which pious veneration, from year to year and from century to century, +industriously collected. The cemetery alluded to, on the plantation of +Mr. Long, may be viewed as the public burial-place of some powerful +nation of the same size, and similar customs, with other Indians. + +FOOTNOTE: + +[21] Rufus Pettibone, Esq., of St. Louis. + + + + +OSAGES. + + +This tribe claims, as original possessors, the territories of the +Ozarks, over which my journeys have chiefly laid. They claim all the +country north of the Arkansas, to the Maramec. The term Ozark appears to +me to be compounded from Osage and Arkansas. + +They are manly, good-looking, stout-limbed men, erratic in their mode of +life, living a part of the year in fixed villages, and roving with their +families through the forests, in search of game, the remainder. Their +territories are immense. + +The Osages, if we may judge from popular opinion, are very much in the +condition of the sons of Ishmael--"Their hand is against every man, and +every man's hand against them." It is remarkable that they possess so +much skill as they do in public negotiations, which they manage with +address, with a bold, direct air, employing enlarged thoughts and +phrases, which are calculated to impress the hearer favorably as to +their mental abilities. + +But little opportunity has been had of personal observation on their +manners and customs. Their mode of encampment has been seen, and is so +arranged as to place the chiefs of the village, or camp, in the position +of honor. It is stated that, at daybreak, a public crier makes +proclamation of the expected events and duties of the day, which, to +ears uninitiated, sounds like a call to prayer. I fancy the prayer of +Indians, if they pray at all, is for deer and buffalo. + +It appears from the manuscript records of General William Clark, at St. +Louis, which I have been permitted to see, that they have a tale, or +fiction, of their origin from a snail and beaver. If this is an +allegory, we are to suppose that persons bearing these names were their +progenitors. I avail myself of the public interpreter of the language to +submit the following vocabulary of it.[23] + +FOOTNOTES: + +[22] See American Philosophical Transactions, Vol. VI. + +[23] Omitted. + + + + +EXTRACTS FROM THE AMERICAN JOURNAL OF SCIENCE. + + Notice of "A View of the Lead-Mines of Missouri, including + some Observations on the Mineralogy, Geology, Geography, + Antiquities, Soil, Climate, Population, and Productions, of + Missouri and Arkansas, and other sections of the Western + Country; accompanied by three Engravings. By HENRY R. + SCHOOLCRAFT, Corresponding Member of the Lyceum of Natural + History of New York." 1821. + + +As this work has been more than a year before the American public, and +is already well known, it may seem superfluous to make any remarks upon +it at so late a period. It was our purpose to have given it an early +notice, but circumstances which could not be controlled, prevented. +Still, as it is devoted to subjects which form a prominent object in +this Journal, and is, as far as we are informed, the only elaborate and +detailed account of a mining district in the United States, we are not +disposed to remain silent, especially as the discharge of the duty is +not likely to be painful, either to ourselves or to the author. Reviews +in form, although within the plan of this Journal, do not constitute one +of its most leading objects, and we do not hold ourselves responsible +for analyses or even for notices of new American books, unless they +appear particularly interesting or important, or hold a very intimate +connexion with the great design of our work. + +We have already intimated that we regard Mr. Schoolcraft's work in this +light. We take it for granted that the statements of facts made by this +author, are both faithful and accurate; the information which we have +incidentally derived from other sources, certainly countenances this +impression, but the whole amount of it is small, compared with the +details contained in the present volume. + +Mr. Schoolcraft's opportunities for observation were extensive, +particularly in relation to the mines of lead in the Missouri region. +Among those mines he spent a year. "I have made (says he) a personal +examination of every mine of consequence, with a view to ascertain its +general character and value and its peculiarities. I have travelled on +foot over the whole mine country, exploring its minerals, its geological +structure, its geographical position, soil, climate, productions, towns, +streams, settlements, and whatever else appeared to me to be necessary +to describe, explain and illustrate the subject before me." + +Mr. Schoolcraft appears to have made good use of the advantages which he +enjoyed, and his countrymen are indebted to him for a great amount of +valuable information. He appears also to have studied the observations +of preceding writers, and, with their works before him, it was in his +power to correct errors and to supply deficiencies. + +He has prefixed an historical sketch which we presume will be acceptable +to every reader. The French, as is well known, were the original +discoverers and settlers of the Missouri, and Illinois regions, which +were embraced in their vast scheme of forming a chain of posts and +settlements from the mouth of the St. Lawrence, to that of the +Mississippi. They did not occupy the country of the Missouri and +Illinois till more than a century after the settlement of Quebec, and +about a century before the present period. At that time, (1720,) the +lead mines were discovered by Philip Francis Renault, and M. La Motte, +and by them they were wrought, although they and the adventurers under +them were disappointed in their expectations of finding gold and silver. + +At the end of about half a century, the country passed into the hands of +the Spaniards, and under their dominion, probably about forty years +since, the principal mine was discovered by a man of the name of Burton, +and from him it has derived the name of Mine a Burton. + +It appears that the processes of mining under the Spaniards were very +imperfect, as they obtained only fifty per cent. of lead from the ore, +threw away the lead ashes, and did not attempt any manufactures of shot +or any other articles. They employed only the open log furnace. + +In 1797, Moses Austin, Esq., a native of Connecticut, who had been +occupied with lead mines in Wythe county, in Virginia, obtained from the +Spanish government, a grant of a league square in the mining district in +consideration of his introducing a reverberatory furnace. He sunk the +first regular shaft--the mining having, till that time, been prosecuted +solely by open digging, in the manner of quarries. Mr. Austin also +introduced the manufacture of shot, and that of sheet lead soon +followed. About the same time several other American families collected +at the mines, and infused new spirit and enterprise into the mining +operations, so that they were carried on with considerable vigour at the +time when (in 1803) the country was transferred to the United States. +Mr. Schoolcraft, from whom these facts are taken, remarks, that since +1804, the number of mines has been astonishingly multiplied--population +has flowed rapidly in--the processes on the ore have been much +improved--better furnaces have been constructed, and "every season is +adding to the number of the mines." "Every day is developing to us the +vast resources of this country, particularly in lead," and the author +expresses his opinion that "the mines of Missouri are paralleled by no +other mineral district in the world." + +From the specimens which we possess of this ore, and from the documents +produced by the author respecting the produce of the mines, we believe +his opinion is correct, especially if we consider the fact that "the +earth has not yet been penetrated over eighty feet;" "we know not what +may be found in the lower strata." "There is reason to believe that the +main bodies of ore have not been hit upon, that they lie deeper, and +that we have thus far been only engaged upon the spurs and detached +masses." + +Mr. Schoolcraft informs us that although the mining business is much +improved, there is still a great deficiency both of capital and of +skill--there is in the whole district but one regular hearth furnace for +smelting, and that not the best;--among forty mines, there are only four +or five regular shafts--there is among all the mines, no engine of any +description for raising water, and some of the richest mines with the +best prospects in view, have been in consequence abandoned. Yet, under +all these disadvantages, the annual produce of the mines is estimated at +three millions of pounds of lead. + +The author suggests the expediency of establishing a school of mines and +minerals in the midst of the mines themselves; this would, without +doubt, be a very proper measure, but in the meantime, skilful practical +miners, and captains of mines, such as are found in every mining +district in Europe, would supply the immediate demands of the country. + +The mining district, formerly called the lead mines of Louisiana, is +situate between the 37th and the 38th degree of north latitude, and +between the 89th and 92d degree of west longitude, covers three thousand +one hundred and fifty square miles--it is from seventy to one hundred +miles long by forty or forty-five, extending in width from the +Mississippi south-west to the Fourche a Courtois, and in length from the +head waters of St. Francis northerly to the Maramec. + +Lead ore is found in almost every part of this district. Mr. Schoolcraft +says, "the general aspect of the country is sterile, though not +mountainous: the lands lie rolling, like a body of water in gentle +agitation. In some places the hills rise into abrupt cliffs, where the +great rock formations of the country may be seen; in others, they run +into level plains--a kind of highland prairie." + +"The soil is a reddish colored clay, stiff and hard, and full of +fragments of flinty stones, quartz and gravel; this extends to the depth +of from ten to twenty feet, and is bottomed on limestone rock. It is so +compact in some places, as almost to resist the pick-axe; in others it +seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and readily penetrated. The +country is particularly characterized by quartz, which is strewed in +detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and is also found +imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called blossom of lead. +Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the surface of the ground, +and occasionally lead ore. Such is the general character of the mineral +hills, which are invariably covered by a stinted growth of oaks." + +Walnut is also found on the hills, and there is a ridge of yellow pine, +not more than six or eight miles wide, running nearly south-east and +north-west, but it is nearly or quite destitute of lead--the mines lie +generally east of it. In summer the flinty aspect of the country is +veiled by a luxuriant growth of grass, which gives it a very pleasing +and picturesque appearance. + +The valleys have a rich alluvial soil, well fitted for cultivation; but +our limits will not allow us to mention the vegetable productions of the +country. This region is well irrigated, and very healthy, being +possessed of a fine climate. Mr. Schoolcraft remarks, that during a +residence of ten months he never heard of a death; the country is free +from the fevers which infest some of the neighboring regions. It seems, +however, that the animals are visited by what is called the mine +sickness. "Cows and horses are frequently seen to die without any +apparent cause. Cats and dogs are taken with violent fits, which never +fail, in a short time, to kill them." It is said that the inhabitants +impute these affections to the sulphur exhaled in smelting the lead, as +the cattle are often seen licking about the old furnaces. But sulphur is +not poisonous either to men or animals. The author imputes it to the +sulphate of barytes, with which the district abounds, which he states is +a "poison to animals." + +The carbonate of barytes is eminently poisonous; but we have never heard +that the sulphate is so. May not the licking around the furnaces expose +the cattle to receive lead in some of its forms, minutely divided? or, +if it be not active in the metallic state, both the oxides and the +carbonate, which must of course exist around the furnaces, would be +highly active and poisonous. Is it not possible, also, that some of the +natural waters of the country may, in consequence of saline or acid +impregnations, dissolve some of the lead, and thus obtain saturnine +qualities? We must allow, however, that we are not acquainted with the +existence of any natural water thus impregnated. + +Among the mineral productions of this region, certainly not the least +remarkable mentioned by Mr. Schoolcraft, is the Iron Mountain, where the +ore is piled in such enormous masses as to constitute the entire +southern extremity of a lofty ridge, which is elevated five or six +hundred feet above the plain: the ore is the micaceous exide, and is +said to yield good malleable iron. + +There is another body of iron ore five miles west of the iron mountain, +scarcely inferior to that mentioned above, and it appears that several +other beds exist in the same vicinity. + +Zinc is abundant, but as the ore is the sulphuret, it is not very +valuable. It is not mentioned that calamine, which is the useful ore of +zinc, has been found. + +As to the geological nature of the country, in which the lead mines are +situate, he informs us that "Bellevue abounds in granite;" that the only +vein of granite rock in the mine country (as far as he had opportunity +to observe) passes across the south-western end of Madison county--runs +into Bellevue--is four or five miles wide, and twenty or thirty miles in +a direction from south-east to north-west. + +The granite is spoken of in another place, (p. 170,) as being a +geological phenomenon, as containing imbedded in it or lying upon its +surface, gneiss, green stone, porphyry, iron ores, &c.; it is spoken of +as a red granite, containing very little mica, and as being used for +millstones. It is mentioned as the "only mass of granite known to exist +between the primitive ranges of the Alleghany and Rocky mountains," and +as being surrounded on all sides, and to an almost immeasurable extent, +with secondary limestone. + +Again, (p. 193,) the granite is cited as the "old red granite in +mountain masses, with some veins of green stone, green stone porphyry, +and gneiss;" it is said to terminate in very rough and broken high +lands. At page 213, it is mentioned, still again, as giving origin to +the river St. Francis, whose "springs gush out among these stupendous +piles of red granite." Besides the ores of iron, lead and zinc, "quartz, +feldspar, shorl, mica, and graphite are among the minerals furnished by +that region," and "green stone, gneiss, and green stone porphyry, are +among the larger masses of rock." The green stone, it seems, "is found +in large isolated fragments, lying promiscuously among the fragments of +granite which have tumbled down from the lofty cliffs above, and is +rendered porphyritic by crystals of green and flesh-colored feldspar." + +We have no right to doubt that the rock described is granite, as the +principal features delineated, correspond with that supposition. As it +is described as being solitary, the only granite between the Alleghanies +and the Rocky mountains, we are led to ask, is it a portion of the +nucleus of our globe, covered on every side, for many hundred miles, +with secondary rocks, and here heaving its head through the +superincumbent strata, and standing alone? But what are we to conclude +of the limestone? We should have liked especially to have had the +relations of this limestone with that remarkable granite region pointed +out. Does this latter repose on the granite, where it dips obliquely +under, as it probably does, in order to find its way beneath the other +rocks, and to vindicate its claim to a fundamental position? But, +perhaps we are asking more than is reasonable, for, it may be that there +are no such sections in the strata as would expose all these facts to +view, and enable the observer to decide. + +These hints we have dropped, not, we trust, from a captious disposition, +but because we have found a real difficulty in conceiving clearly of the +geological nature of this limestone, which, it seems, is the basis of +the lead-mine country, and therefore it is very important that its +characters should be indubitably fixed. We have not been so fortunate as +to see Mr. Schoolcraft's specimens; possibly a view of them would have +rendered the preceding remarks, in part at least, unnecessary. + +Leaving the geological features of the lead-mine district, we proceed to +cite some interesting and important facts from Mr. Schoolcraft's +work:--"The soil," he remarks, "is a reddish colored clay, stiff and +hard, and full of fragments of flinty stone, quartz and gravel; this +extends to the depth of from ten to twenty feet, and is bottomed on +limestone rock. It is so compact in some places as almost to resist the +pick-axe; in others it seems to partake of marl, is less gravelly, and +readily penetrated. The country is particularly characterized by quartz, +which is strewed in detached pieces over the surface of the ground, and +is also found imbedded in the soil at all depths. This is here called +blossom of lead. Iron ores and pyrites are also scattered over the +surface of the ground, and occasionally lead ore. The mineral +productions of the country, in addition to lead, are zinc, iron, ochre, +red chalk, saltpetre, sulphur, alum and salt." + +The ore (the author remarks) is the lead glance, galena, or sulphuret of +lead. It is very rich and beautiful, and specimens in our possession +fully confirm Mr. Schoolcraft's account; they have a very broad and +perfectly foliated fracture, and a high degree of metallic lustre; they +break in cubical fragments, and the minutest portions still retain this +form. + +We have already observed that large fragments are found loose in the +earth: they sometimes weigh four or five pounds; we have such specimens +from these mines; they are of a cubical form, and are surrounded, except +where they have been broken, by an earthy incrustation. + +It is observed that the marly earth thrown out from the pits, enriches +the ground, so that in a few years it is covered with a very rank growth +of trees, vines, &c., and this is a regular characteristic of old +diggings. Innumerable portions of radiated quartz, and sharp fragments +of flinty stones are mixed with the clay, and form the first stratum of +about fourteen inches. The next is of a red clay, and is four or five +feet thick, and less mixed with similar siliceous substances. Then comes +a layer of gravel and rounded siliceous pebbles, about one foot thick, +containing small portions of lead ore. The thickness of the bed of ore +is generally a foot; and the lumps of ore appear to have been rounded by +attrition, like common gravel. "This is the character of what is called +the gravel ore, and no spars are found accompanying it. The greatest +proportion of lead ore is, however, found imbedded in, and accompanied +by, the sulphate of barytes, resting in a thick stratum of marly clay, +bottomed on limestone rock." They invariably arrive at the rock at the +depth of from fifteen to twenty, or sometimes thirty feet; a new process +by boring and blasting is now necessary, and most diggers abandon their +pits rather than prosecute them at this expense. If, however, as there +can be little doubt, the limestone is the real matrix of the lead ore, +the time will come when the present diggings will be considered as +merely superficial beginnings, and the work will be resumed where +hitherto it has been abandoned. It seems that the almost invariable +practice of the miners is, to persevere till they strike the rock, and +then to go and dig elsewhere; they cannot, if disposed, prosecute the +business by levels or galleries, for they are not permitted to carry on +their mining except immediately under the surface that is covered by +their respective leases, or by twelve feet square, which, if unoccupied, +an adventurer may cover by occupancy. Among the substances accompanying +the lead, blende and the sulphate of barytes are said to be very +abundant; the latter in specimens which we have, is particularly +brilliant and white;[24] the quartz is often prettily crystallized, and +is so invariable a concomitant of the ore, that the miners, as we have +before remarked, give it the meaning appellation of mineral blossom. + +A curious fact is mentioned by Mr. Schoolcraft, respecting the Elliott's +mines. "During the remarkable earthquakes of 1812, a fine spring of +water at the mouth of the mines suddenly became warm and foul, and in a +few days dried up entirely, and no water has run there since." +"Illuminations in the atmosphere are frequently observed in this +vicinity on the approach of night."[25] + +It seems there is a considerable quantity of a greyish white sublimate +collected at the log hearth furnaces, and rejected by the workmen upon +the supposition that it is sulphur and arsenic; but Mr. Schoolcraft, by +unquestionable experiments, ascertained that it was lead, as would +appear, in the form of a carbonated oxide. A considerable loss is in +this manner sustained, and in a more advanced state of the metallurgic +operations of these mines, the author's valuable suggestions will not be +neglected. There is one mine (M'Kain's) where the ore is of the +steel-grained variety--it is said to yield less lead, and is inferred to +contain more silver than the common ores; we are aware that this is the +common impression, but our own experiments on different varieties of +lead ore would induce us to think that it cannot be relied upon. We have +examined fine steel-grained ore which contained very little silver; in +one specimen only one five-thousandth part, and in another, and that a +foliated specimen, we found three and a half per cent, of silver. + +The methods of digging for the ore are sufficiently simple. "A pick-axe +and shovel are the only tools used for removing the earth, and the +drill, hammer and priming rod are added when it is necessary to blast." +The process is carried on as in digging a common well. + +We must refer our readers to the book itself for a clear account of the +furnaces and furnace operations, employed for smelting the lead; it will +be the more intelligible, as it is accompanied by two good plates +containing views and sections of the furnaces. A circumstance which +appears very extraordinary is, that the furnaces are most commonly built +of limestone, which is of course calcined, and brought to the condition +of quicklime by a few blasts, and then it crumbles and the furnaces must +be rebuilt. + +The ore yields at first fifty per cent., and then the ashes give fifteen +per cent, more--sixty-five[26] in the whole.[27] + +Custom, says the author, has established a number of laws among the +miners, with regard to digging, which have a tendency to prevent +disputes. Whenever a discovery is made, the person claiming it is +entitled to claim the ground for twenty-five feet, in every direction +from his pit, giving him fifty feet square. Other diggers are each +entitled to twelve feet square, which is just enough to sink a pit, and +afford room for throwing out the earth. Each one measures and stakes off +his ground; and though he should not begin his work for several days +afterwards, no person will intrude upon it. On this spot he digs down, +but is not allowed to run drifts horizontally, so as to break into or +undermine the pits of others. If appearances are unpromising, or he +strikes the rock, and chooses to abandon his pit, he can go on any +unoccupied ground, and, observing the same precautions, begin anew. In +such a case, the abandoned pit may be occupied by any other person; and +sometimes large bodies of ore are found by the second occupant, by a +little work, which would have richly rewarded the labors of the first +had he persevered. + +Mr. Schoolcraft, from various particulars, infers that the average +annual produce of the Missouri lead mines, as mentioned before, is three +million pounds per annum, and the lead was worth in 1819, at the mines, +four cents per pound. For the last three years, up to 1819 inclusive, +the produce of the mines was estimated at three million seven hundred +twenty-six thousand six hundred and sixty-six pounds per annum of pig +lead, which the author supposes to be not more than one half what the +mines are capable of yielding. + +The number of miners is between eleven and twelve hundred, and the +number of hands employed in labor at different mines is from twenty to +two hundred and forty, including in both cases persons of all +descriptions. + +Many miscellaneous topics connected with the general subject of his +work, are introduced by Mr. Schoolcraft, such as the sections relating +to the manufactures, and uses of lead, &c., but it is not our object to +advert to these topics. + +Among the miscellaneous mineral productions of the western regions, +there are some that are interesting; and it will be seen from the +author's table of minerals, that the list is various. There are several +caverns which produce nitrate of potash by the usual treatment; and +Ashley's Cave, about eighty miles from Potosi, is said to be one of +stupendous size, and to "afford native nitrate of potash in beautiful +white crystals." + +The novaculite is mentioned as occurring on Washita, as described by Mr. +Bringier in the present number. + +Steatite exists in abundance at the falls of St. Anthony, on the +Mississippi, and is used by the Indians for pipes. + +The fluate of lime, near Shawneetown, was described in the first volume +of this journal. + +Among other minerals, Mr. Schoolcraft mentions chalcedony in several +varieties, earthy oxide of lead, native copper, alum, manganese, +opalized and agatized wood, opal, jasper, coal, gypsum, native epsom +salts, pumice stone, agate, onyx, burr millstone, native iron, &c.; for +the localities and descriptions of which, we must refer to the book +itself. + +Those facts of Mr. Schoolcraft's volume which relate to statistical and +political topics, do not come within the plan of these remarks. + +During our cursory notice of this work, we have cited a number of the +most prominent facts which it contains, both because they are in +themselves important, and because we were willing to call the attention +of our readers both to them, and to the volume in which they are +contained. Both are, in our view, entitled to great respect; and we +confess ourselves very much indebted to Mr. Schoolcraft for a great mass +of valuable information, which, in a connected form, is, we believe, +nowhere else to be found. His statements (as regards the most valuable +part) are drawn from his own research and observations, and have +evidently been the result of much effort, and of no small share of +fatigue and personal privation. We trust that so valuable a work will +not stop with a single edition, and perhaps we might venture to suggest +to the author, that in a second, he might advantageously condense into +one view some facts which are several times repeated in different parts +of the volume--such as those respecting the granite and its connected +rocks, the lead ore and its associated minerals, &c. + +We consider the present work as an acquisition to our means of +information respecting our mineral resources, and believe that it must +be a regular volume of reference for all those who are interested in the +investigation of these subjects. + +FOOTNOTES: + +[24] It is mentioned by the author, as a chemical test or reagent: it +may, by decomposing it by ignition with charcoal, or with an alkaline +carbonate, be made to afford its earth for the preparation of barytic +tests, but we are not aware that it is itself ever used as a test. + +[25] They are attributed by the author to phosphorus. Is it supposed to +be in the form of phosphuretted hydrogen? May not these be electrical +phenomena? + +[26] According to Dr. Meade, the Missouri ore affords only a trace of +silver. (See Bruce's Minl. Journal, vol. 1, p. 10.) + +[27] Mr. Schoolcraft thinks it may yield seventy per cent.--it gave him +by analysis eighty-two per cent. + + +THE END. + + + + + +--------------------------------------------------+ + | Transcriber's Note: | + | | + | Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the | + | original document have been preserved. | + | | + | Typographical errors corrected in the text: | + | | + | Page 24 musquitoes changed to mosquitoes | + | Page 64 develope changed to develop | + | Page 94 M'Gary's changed to M'Garey's | + | Page 103 20th changed to 29th | + | Page 110 brandt changed to brant | + | Page 113 Gasconage changed to Gasconade | + | Page 139 Quiquate changed to Quiguate | + | Page 155 emigate changed to emigrate | + | Page 155 Philips changed to Phillips | + | Page 156 Peora changed to Peoria | + | Page 160 scientic changed to scientific | + | Page 161 borers changed to borders | + | Page 170 M'Kane's changed to M'Kain's | + | Page 186 octohedral changed to octahedral | + | Page 191 precicision changed to precision | + | Page 196 develope changed to develop | + | Page 207 1719 date in paragraph 39a may be 1749 | + | Page 208 irridescence changed to iridescence | + | Page 211 octohedrons changed to octahedrons | + | Page 217 annnally changed to annually | + | Page 246 some changed to same | + | Page 254 coutained changed to contained | + +--------------------------------------------------+ + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Scenes and Andventures in the +Semi-Alpine Region of the Ozark Mountains of Missouri and Arkansas, by Henry Rowe Schoolcraft + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ADVENTURES IN THE OZARK MOUNTAINS *** + +***** This file should be named 36675.txt or 36675.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/6/6/7/36675/ + +Produced by Julia Miller, Barbara Kosker and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This +file was produced from images generously made available +by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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