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FOR PUBLIC DOMAIN ETEXTS*Ver.06/12/01*END* +[Portions of this header are copyright (C) 2001 by Michael S. Hart +and may be reprinted only when these Etexts are free of all fees.] +[Project Gutenberg is a TradeMark and may not be used in any sales +of Project Gutenberg Etexts or other materials be they hardware or +software or any other related product without express permission.] + + + + + +Etext prepared by Garry Gill (garrygill@hotmail.com) and the distributed +proofreading team of Charles Franks (http://charlz.dynip.com/gutenberg/) + + + + + + +The Albert N'Yanza, Great Basin of the Nile +And Explorations of the Nile Sources. + +by Sir Samuel W. Baker, M.A., F.R.G.S. + +Gold Medallist of the Royal Geographical Society. + + + + +To Her Most Gracious Majesty +THE QUEEN +I dedicate, with Her permission, +THIS BOOK, +Containing the Story of the Discovery of the Great Lake +From which the NILE ultimately flows, +And which, +As connected so intimately, +As a NILE SOURCE, with the VICTORIA LAKE, +I have ventured to name +"THE ALBERT N'YANZA," +In Memory of the Late Illustrious and Lamented +PRINCE CONSORT. + + + + +PREFACE. + +In the history of the Nile there was a void: its Sources were a mystery. +The Ancients devoted much attention to this problem; but in vain. The +Emperor Nero sent an expedition under the command of two centurions, as +described by Seneca. Even Roman energy failed to break the spell that +guarded these secret fountains. The expedition sent by Mehemet Ali +Pasha, the celebrated Viceroy of Egypt, closed a long term of +unsuccessful search. + +The work has now been accomplished. Three English parties, and only +three, have at various periods started upon this obscure mission: each +has gained its end. + +Bruce won the source of the Blue Nile; Speke and Grant won the Victoria +source of the great White Nile; and I have been permitted to succeed in +completing the Nile Sources by the discovery of the great reservoir of +the equatorial waters, the ALBERT N'YANZA, from which the river issues +as the entire White Nile. + +Having thus completed the work after nearly five years passed in Africa, +there still remains a task before me. I must take the reader of this +volume by the hand, and lead him step by step along my rough path from +the beginning to the end; through scorching deserts and thirsty sands; +through swamp, and jungle, and interminable morass; through +difficulties, fatigues, and sickness, until I bring him, faint with the +wearying journey, to that high cliff where the great prize shall burst +upon his view--from which he shall look down upon the vast ALBERT LAKE, +and drink with me from the Sources of the Nile! + +I have written "HE!" How can I lead the more tender sex through dangers +and fatigues, and passages of savage life? A veil shall be thrown over +many scenes of brutality that I was forced to witness, but which I will +not force upon the reader; neither will I intrude anything that is not +actually necessary in the description of scenes that unfortunately must +be passed through in the journey now before us. Should anything offend +the sensitive mind, and suggest the unfitness of the situation for a +woman's presence, I must beseech my fair readers to reflect, that the +pilgrim's wife followed him, weary and footsore, through all his +difficulties, led, not by choice, but by devotion; and that in times of +misery and sickness her tender care saved his life and prospered the +expedition. + + "O woman, in our hours of ease + Uncertain, coy, and hard to please, + And variable as the shade + By the light quivering aspen made; + When pain and anguish wring the brow, + A ministering angel thou!" + +In the journey now before us I must request some exercise of patience +during geographical details that may be wearisome; at all events, I will +adhere to facts, and avoid theory as much as possible. + +The Botanist will have ample opportunities of straying from our path to +examine plants with which I confess a limited acquaintance. The +Ethnologist shall have precisely the same experience that I enjoyed, and +he may either be enlightened or confounded. The Geologist will find +himself throughout the journey in Central Africa among primitive rocks. +The Naturalist will travel through a grass jungle that conceals much +that is difficult to obtain: both he and the Sportsman will, I trust, +accompany me on a future occasion through the "Nile tributaries from +Abyssinia," which country is prolific in all that is interesting. The +Philanthropist,--what shall I promise to induce him to accompany me? I +will exhibit a picture of savage man precisely as he is; as I saw him; +and as I judged him, free from prejudice: painting also, in true +colours, a picture of the abomination that has been the curse of the +African race, the SLAVE TRADE; trusting that not only the +philanthropist, but every civilized being, will join in the endeavour to +erase that stain from disfigured human nature, and thus open the path +now closed to civilization and missionary enterprise. To the +Missionary,--that noble, self-exiled labourer toiling too often in a +barren field,--I must add the word of caution, "Wait"! There can be no +hope of success until the slave trade shall have ceased to exist. + +The journey is long, the countries savage; there are no ancient +histories to charm the present with memories of the past; all is wild +and brutal, hard and unfeeling, devoid of that holy instinct instilled +by nature into the heart of man--the belief in a Supreme Being. In that +remote wilderness in Central Equatorial Africa are the Sources of the +Nile. + + + +CONTENTS. + + +INTRODUCTION + +CHAPTER I. + +THE EXPEDITION. + +Programme--Start from Cairo--Arrive at Berber--Plan of Exploration-- +The River Atbara--Abyssinian Affluents--Character of Rivers--Causes +of Nile Inundations--Violence of the Rains--Arrival at Khartoum-- +Description of Khartoum--Egyptian Authorities--Taxes--The Soudan-- +Slave-Trade of the Soudan--Slave-Trade of the White Nile--System of +Operations--Inhuman Proceedings--Negro Allies--Revelations of +Slave-Trade--Distant Slave Markets--Prospects of the Expedition-- +Difficulties at the Outset--Opposition of the Egyptian Authorities-- +Preparations for Sailing--Johann Schmidt--Demand for Poll-Tax-- +Collision before starting--Amiable Boy!--The Departure--The Boy Osman +--Banks of White Nile--Change in Disposition of Men--Character of the +River--Misery of Scene--River Vegetation--Ambatch Wood--Johann's +Sickness--Uses of Fish-skin--Johann Dying--Johann's Death--New Year +--Shillook Villages--The Sobat River--Its Character--Bahr Giraffe-- +Bahr el Gazal--Observations--Corporal Richarn--Character of Bahr el +Gazal--Peculiarity of River Sobat--Tediousness of Voyage--Bull +Buffalo--Sali Achmet killed--His Burial--Ferocity of the Buffalo-- +"The Clumsy" on the Styx--Current of White Nile--First View of Natives +--Joctian and his Wife--Charming Husband--Natron--Catch a +Hippopotamus--"Perhaps it was his Uncle"--Real Turtle is Mock +Hippopotamus--Richarn reduced to the Ranks--Arrival at the Zareeba-- +Fish Spearing--The Kytch Tribe--White Ant Towers--Starvation in the +Kytch Country--Destitution of the Natives--The Bull of the Herd--Men +and Beasts in a bad Temper--Aboukooka--Austrian Mission Station--Sale +of the Mission-House--Melancholy Fate of Baron Harnier--The Aliab +Tribes--Tulmuli of Ashes--The Shir Tribe--The Lotus Harvest--Arrival +at Gondokoro--Discharge Cargo + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAD RECEPTION AT GONDOKORO. + +Reports of Speke and Grant--The Bari Tribe--Description of the Natives +--Effects of poisoned Arrows--Hostility of the Bari Tribe--Atrocities +of the Trading Parties--Lawlessness at Gondokoro-A Boy shot--The first +Mutiny--Decision of my Wife--The Khartoum Escort--Arrival of Speke +and Grant--Gladness at meeting them--Their Appearance--Speke and +Grant's Discoveries--Another Lake reported to exist--Speke's +Instructions--Arrange to explore the Luta N'zige--Scarcity at +Gondokoro--Speke and Grant depart to Khartoum + + +CHAPTER III. + +GUN ACCIDENT. + +Gun Accident--Birds ruin the Donkeys--Arrangement with Mahommed--His +Duplicity--Plot to obstruct my Advance--The Boy Saat--History of Saat +--First Introduction to Saat--Turned out by Mistake--Saat's Character +--Something brewing--Mutiny of Escort--Preparation for the worst-- +Disarm the Mutineers--Mahommed's Desertion--Arrangement with Koorshid +Aga--The last Hope gone--Expedition ruined--Resolution to advance-- +Richarn faithful--Bari Chief's Report--Parley with Mutineers-- +Conspiracy again--Night Visit of Fadeela--"Quid pro Quo"--"Adda," the +Latooka--Arrange to start for Latooka--Threats of Koorshid's People-- +Determination to proceed--Start from Gondokoro--My own Guide. + + +CHAPTER IV. + +FIRST NIGHT'S MARCH. + +Bivouacking--Arrival at Belignan--Attempts at Conciliation--I shame +my Men--The March--Advantages of Donkeys--Advice for Travellers-- +Want of Water--A forced March--Its Difficulties--Delays on the Road-- +Cleverness of the Donkeys--Party dead-beat--Improvidence of Monkey-- +We obtain Water--Native Tit-Bits--Surrounded by Natives-- +Cross-Examination--Recognition of the Chief--Interest of Natives--The +Monkey Wallady--We leave Tollogo--The Ellyria Pass--A Race for +Ellyria--Ellyrian Villages palisaded--Outmarched by the Turks-- +Ibrahim and his Men--Attempt at Reconciliation--Diplomacy--Peace +established--Arrive at Ellyria--Legge, the Chief of Ellyria--Presents +to Ibrahim--Legge's Intemperance--Violent Storm--No Supplies-- +Formation of Skulls. + + +CHAPTER V. + +LEAVE ELLYRIA. + +We leave Ellyria--Brutality towards the Women--Order of March-- +Bellaal--Drainage towards the Sobat--Game at Wakkala--Delightful +Scenery--Latooka Thieves--Stalking Antelopes--Chase after Waterbuck-- +Good Service of Rifle--The Turks' Salute--Treacherous Welcome-- +Mahommed Her--Quarrelling among the Traders--The Latooka Mutiny-- +Settle the Ringleader--Stop the Mutiny--I pursue a Fugitive, and +interpose on his behalf--Held in some Estimation--Desertion of Men-- +The Natives of Latooka--Their probable Origin--Tribes hard to +distinguish--Tarrangolle--Native Architecture--Exhumation of the Dead +--Coiffure of Natives--Hair Helmets of Latooka--Fighting Bracelets-- +The Latooka Women--The Chief's Introduction--"Moy" and his Ladies-- +Bokke proposes to improve Mrs. Baker--Bokke and Daughter--Extraction +of the front Teeth--The Value of Wives--Cows of more value than Women +--Destruction of Mahommed Her's People--Death of my Deserters--My +Prophecy realized--Apprehensive of an Attack--The Turks insult the +Women--Ill Conduct of the Turks--Well done, Bokke!--Results of the +Turks' Misconduct--Interview with Commoro--Awkward Position--The +Latooka War Signal--Preparations for Defence--We await the Attack-- +Parley--Too "wide awake"--Camp at Tarrangolle--Scarcity in view of +Plenty--Wild Duck Shooting--The Crested Crane, &c.--Adda's Proposal-- +Obtuseness of Natives--Degraded State of Natives. + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE FUNERAL DANCE. + +A Funeral Dance--Bari Interpreters--Commoro, the Lion--Conversation +with Commoro--"Where will the Spirit live?"--"Good and bad all die"-- +Failure of the religious Argument--Further Conversation--The Camel +poisoned--Habits of the Camel--Camel's peculiar Constitution--The +Hygeen, or riding Dromedary--Loss of Camel a Misfortune--Dirty Donkeys + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LATOOKA. + +Herds of the Latookas and Game--Storm--Effects of Rain upon Natives-- +Native Blacksmiths--Their Tools--Elephants--Elephant Hunt--Tetel, my +old Hunter--Charged by a herd of Elephants--Cowardly Followers--Track +the wounded Elephant--Nearly caught--Tetel distressed--Return to Camp +--African and Indian Elephants--Height of Elephants--Food of Elephants +--African and Ceylon Elephants--Difference in Formation of Brain-- +Rifles and Bullets for heavy Game--Character of Country and its Sports +--The "Baby"--Method of killing Elephants--Elephant Pitfalls-- +Circling them with Fire--Native Hunting--The Bagara Hunters--Danger +of Elephant Hunting + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IBRAHIM's RETURN. + +The African Black--Comparison between Whites and Blacks--Varieties in +Creation--The Negro--Character of the Negro-Originated African Slave +System--Indisposition to Work--Negro Slave Hunters--Ibrahimawa; or, +Sinbad the Sailor--Makkarika Cannibals--My daily Employments-- +Quarrels with the Latookas--Parley with Latooka Chiefs--The Latookas +seize a Gun--Helplessness in an Advance--Hope to the South--Journey +to Obbo--Uncomfortable Night--Enter the Mountains--Beautiful Scenery +--Arrive at Obbo--Natives of Obbo--Butter Nuts and Fruits--Pottery +and Utensils--Natural Features of Obbo--Katchiba, Chief of Obbo-- +Entertained with a Dance--Women of Obbo--Languages of Tribes-- +Katchiba's Diplomacy--Katchiba "always at Home"--Family Government-- +The great Magician--Reconnaissance to the South--Mrs. Baker's Dwelling +--An Upset--Loss of Filfil--My Bivouac--Ceremony of Welcome at +Farajoke--Elevated Country at Farajoke--Stopped by the Asua--Return +to Obbo--Gallantry of Katchiba--Katchiba determines to ride--First +Attempts at Horsemanship--Recover the lost Horse--Ceremony at parting +with Katchiba--Return to Latooka--Discovery of supposed Yams--Beware +of Botanists--Baboons--The Maharif Antelope--The Giraffe--Hunting +Giraffes--Unsuccessful Hunt--Benighted--Regain the Party-- +Bread-baking on the March--Sickness; Small-pox--Wani, the Interpreter +--First Clue to the Lake--Brown Men are called White + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE TURKS ATTACK KAYALA. + +The "Pleasant Robber" killed--Division of the Spoil--Discord among the +Natives--The Life of Women spared in War--Scarcity of Salt, among the +Latookas--Another Cause of Alarm--The Turks murder a Native--Country +disturbed--Good Sport--Two Thieves--Ibrahimawa's Reminiscences of +England--Party recalled to Obbo--White Ants--Destructiveness of Birds +--Cattle Stealers at Night--A Thief shot--My Wife ill with Fever-- +March to Obbo--Great Puff Adder--Poison-fangs of Snakes--Violent +Storm--Arrive again at Obbo--Hostility caused by the Turks--The M.D. +attends us--Death of "Mouse"--Marauding Expedition--Saat becomes +scientific--Saat and Gaddum Her--Will England suppress the Slave +Trade?--Filthy Customs of the Natives--The Egyptian Scarabaeus-- +Bacheeta, the Unyoro Slave--Intelligence of the Lake--Its probable +Commercial Advantages--Commerce with the Interior--Obbo the Clothing +Frontier--Death of my last Camel--Excellent Species of Gourd--A +Morning Call in Obbo--Katchiba's Musical Accomplishments--Loss of +remaining Donkey--Deceived by the Turks--Fever--Symptoms--Dismal +Prospect, "Coming Events," &c. + + +CHAPTER X. + +LIFE AT OBBO. + +Physician in General--Influence gained over the People--Katchiba is +applied to for Rain--"Are you a Rainmaker?"--Katchiba takes Counsel's +Opinion--Successful Case--Night-watch for Elephants--Elephant killed +--Dimensions of the Elephant--Wild Boars--Start for the South--Mrs. +Baker thrown from her Ox--The Asua River--Stalking Mehedehet Antelope +--A Prairie Fire--Tracking an Antelope--Turks' Standard-bearer killed +--Arrival at Shooa--The Neighbourhood of Shooa--Fruitfulness of Shooa +--Cultivation and Granaries--Absconding of Obbo Porters--"Wheels +within Wheels"--Difficulty in starting South--Departure from Shooa-- +Fatiko Levee--Boundless Prairies--Fire the Prairies--Deceit of the +Guide--Arrive at the Victoria Nile--Arrive at Rionga's Country--Start +for Karuma--The Karuma Falls--Welcome by Kamrasi's People--Passage of +the River forbidden--To await Reply of Kamrasi--The Natives' Dread of +Kamrasi--They hold a Conference--Resolve to cross the River alone-- +The Ferry of Atada--Reception by Keedja--I lull the Suspicions of the +Natives--Appellations of Speke and Grant--Freemasonry of Unyoro-- +Native Curiosity--The Bark Cloth of Unyoro--Comparative Civilization +of Unyoros--Native Pottery--The Bottle Gourds used as Models--"Great +Men never in a Hurry to pay Visits"--Pronounced to be Speke's Brother-- +The Escort cross the River--Neatness of the Natives in packing--Native +Manufactures--March parallel with the Victoria Nile--Severe Illness of +Mrs. Baker--March to the Capital--Kamrasi suspects Treachery--Arrive +at last at the Capital--Imprisoned on the Marsh--Expectation of an +Attack--Kamrasi makes a State Visit--Conversation with the King--His +Reception of my Presents--Another Interview with Kamrasi--Exchange +Blood and become Friends--Avarice of the King--Permitted to leave our +Fever-bed--Ibrahim and Party return North--Sulkiness of Bacheeta-- +Attempt to barter for Speke's Rifle--Rapacity of the Chiefs. + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE START FOR THE LAKE. + +Despicable Conduct of the King--Pertinacity of Kamrasi--Kamrasi's +Infamous Proposal--Resentment of the King's Insolence--The King's +Apology--Expectation of a Fight--Kamrasi's Satanic Escort--The Rout +at a Gun-shot--A disagreeable Escort--Passage of the Kafoor--Mrs. +Baker receives a Sun-stroke--Dismissal of the brutal Escort--Misery +and Distress--Return to Consciousness, but afflicted with Brain-fever + + +CHAPTER XII. + +RECOVERED. + +The Sugarcane indigenous--Unyoro People clean Feeders--Close to the +Lake--Discovery of the Albert N'yanza--Gratitude to Providence-- +Denominate it "The Albert N'yanza"--Fishing Tackle--The Lake declared +to be the Sea--Feast in honour of the Discovery--Survey of the Lake-- +Geography of the Lake--Countries bordering the Lake--The Great Basin +of the Nile--Sources of the Nile--Affluents of the Albert Lake--Our +whole party Fever-stricken--Yearning for Home--Arrange Canoes for Lake +Voyage--Start from Vacovia--Voyage upon the Lake--Shore Encampment-- +Deserted by the Boatmen--No Pilot--Endeavour to civilize the Canoes-- +Adapt a Scotch Plaid for a Sail--Natives volunteer as Boatmen--Storm +on the Lake--Nearly swamped--Land safely on Shore--Falls of the +Kaiigiri River--Shoot a Crocodile--Taste of Crocodile Flesh-- +Discomforts of Lake Voyage--Elephants in the Lake--Inhospitable +Natives--Procure Supplies--The Lake changes its character--Arrival at +Magungo--Embouchure of the Somerset River--Fish and Fishing--The +Baggera and Lepidosiren Annecteus--Native Fishing Arrangements--Exit +of the Nile from the Lake--Nile navigable from Lake to Madi--The +Victoria Nile at Magungo--Determination to settle Nile Question--Nobly +seconded by Mrs. Baker--Leave Magungo--Voyage up the Victoria Nile-- +Stricken again with Fever--Guided by Waterplants--Numerous Crocodiles +--The Murchison Falls--Hippopotamus charges the Canoe--Narrow Escape +from Crocodiles--Arrival of Oxen, but not the Guide--Loss of Oxen from +Fly-bite--Sickness on the March--The Island of Patooan--Information +about Ibrahim--Difference in the Level--Difference in Observations-- +Altitudes + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +TREACHEROUS DESIGNS OF THE NATIVES. + +Confined in the Country--Determine to proceed--Deserted by the Natives +--Discovery of a "Tullaboon" Granary--Misery at Shooa Moru--Hard Fare +--Preparation for Death--Kamrasi's Tactics--The Bait takes--We are +carried to the King's Camp--Rejoin the Turks' Detachment--Their +Welcome--Kamrasi seeks my Alliance--Deception of Kamrasi--M'Gambi has +impersonated the King--The real Kamrasi--Prefer seeing Meat to a King +--The begging Envoy--Carried to the Camp of Kamrasi--Introduction to +the real King--Description of Kamrasi--The Native Court + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +AT HOME IN KISOONA. + +System of Fattening--Native Preparations of Food--Native Manufactures +--Knavery of Native Butter-dealers--Vapour Bath for Fever--State Visit +from the King--Mendicancy again--The King in love with a Tooth-comb-- +Effect of concave Mirror--Attempts at Ancient History--Kamrasi's +Request--Kamrasi affronted--Sudden Invasion of the Country--Alarm and +Cowardice of Kamrasi--The British Flag protects Unyoro--Diplomatic +Arrangement--Conference with Debono's Party--Settle authoritatively +all Objections--Retreat of the Invaders. + + +CHAPTER XV. + +KAMRASI BEGS FOR THE BRITISH FLAG. + +The pertinacious Beggar--Summary Justice for High Treason--Arrival of +Ivory for the Turks--Frightful Barbarities upon Captives--The Female +Captives--Treacherous Murder of Sali--Disputes with Kamrasi--Advice +to Kamrasi--The Turks begin to bully--Eddrees refused Admittance at +Court--Communicate with Ibrahim--Drunkenness among the Unyoros-- +Native Sorcerers--Implicit Belief in Sorcerers--Invasion of the M'Was +--Consulted by the King in the Extremity--Kamrasi will not Fight--An +invigorating little Difficulty--Mock Valour by Unyoros--Kamrasi's +Retreat--We are Deserted--Prepare for Retreat--Leave Kisoona--Arrive +at Deang--No Water--Deserted again by the Porters--Richarn missing-- +Richarn reported as killed--The M'Was' Drums beat--March to Foweera-- +The Night Retreat--Lose the Road--At a Loss for direct Route--Capture +a Native--Recover the Route--Exhaustion of Mrs. Baker--Arrive at +Foweera--Well prepared--Refuse to assist Kamrasi--Richarn's Return-- +Richarn's Story--The King in Distress--Arrival of Ibrahim with +Reinforcements--Receive Letters and Papers from Home--Kamrasi "is +himself again"--Invasion of the Langgo Country--The Whisky Distillery +--Kamrasi tries the Whisky--Butcheries by Kamrasi--Kamrasi orders the +Murder of Kalloe--Attempt to save Kalloe--Pursuit and Capture of Kalloe +--I intercede on his behalf--Death of a Headman--Shot by order of +Kamrasi--The Warning--The Bodyguard + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +KAMRASI'S ADIEU, + +Begging to the last--We quit Kamrasi's Territory--March to Shooa-- +Arrive at Shooa--The Lira Tribe--Resemblance of Natives' and Lawyers' +Wigs--Result of the Turks' Razzias--Loss of Cattle by the Turks--The +Fight with Werdella--Courage of Werdella--Werdella defeats the Turks-- +Murder of a Native--Runaway slaves recaptured--Brutality of the Turks +--Little Abbai--The Children of the Camp--Pleasant Time with the +Children--Shoot a Crocodile--The Black Rhinoceros--The Lira +Head-dress--Native Use of Donkeys + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +THE NATIVES IN MOURNING. + +Results of the Ivory Campaign--Preparations for starting Homeward-- +Part regretfully with the Children--The Traveller's Tree--View of the +Nile--Koshi and Madi--Gebel Kookoo--On Speke and Grant's Route-- +Changes in the Nile--The Asua River--Suspicious Movements of the +Natives--Attacked in the Pass--Night in a hostile Country--Camp +surrounded by Natives--Poisoned Arrows shot into Camp--Sight Belignan +--Approach Gondokoro--Arrive at Gondokoro--Neither Letters nor +Supplies--Disappointment. + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE LATEST NEWS FROM KHARTOUM. + +Intelligence from Khartoum--Retreat of the Slaves--Influence gained +over Traders' People--Sail from Gondokoro--The Nile cleared of its +Mystery--The Victoria Source--Ptolemy's Theory--Rainfall--Affluents +of the White Nile--Action of the Abyssinian Rivers--Colonization +impossible--Slavery the Curse of Africa--Impotence of European Consuls +--Impossibility of convicting a Trader--Central Africa opened to +Navigation--Tribes of Central Africa--Vestiges of a Pre-Adamite +Creation--Geological Formation--Hypothesis of Equatorial Lakes--Sir +Roderick Murchison's Theories confirmed--Sir Roderick Murchison's +Address + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE BLACK ANTELOPE. + +Antelope shooting--Arrive at Junction of Bahr el Gazal--Arrive at the +Nile Dam--Character of the Obstruction--Passage through the Dam--The +Plague breaks out--Saat smitten by the Plague--Entertained by Osman +Bey--Saat dies--Burial of Saat--Arrival at Khartoum--Albert Lake +Reservoir of Nile--Destruction by the Plague--A Darkness that might be +felt--Horrible Slave Cargo--Meet with Mahommed Her--Mahommed Her +punished--Nearly wrecked--Stranded among Cataracts--Clear the Danger +--Start from Berber to Souakim--A Row in the Desert--Combat with the +Arabs--"Bravo, Zeneb!"--Disarm the Arabs--Cross the Mountains--First +View of the Sea--Souakim--Arrival at Suez--Farewell to Africa-- +Exertions appreciated + + + + LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + General Map of Country, Nile Basin + Arms and Instruments of various Tribes + Nuehr Natives coming to the Boats + Joctian, Chief of the Nuehr Tribe + Chief of Kytch and Daughter + Starving boy of Kytch Tribe begging + The Boys who have begged + A Homestead of the Bari Tribe-The usual Attitudes of the Men + Legge the Chief + Commoro running to the Fight + Bokke-Wife of Moy, Chief of Latooka + Drake's Head + Crimson-headed Spur-winged Goose + The Latooka Funeral Dance + Latooka Blacksmiths + The last Charge + Head-dress of Obbo (1) and Shoggo (2) + Women of Obbo + Katchiba's eldest Son + Katchiba and his Hebe on a Journey + Overhauling the Giraffes + The Obbo War Dance + Mehedehet Antelope + Natives of Lira (1) and Madi (2) in the Camp at Shooa + My Examination by the Chiefs on entering Unyoro-Resolved, + that I am Speke's Brother + The Start from the M'rooli for the Lake with Kamrasi's Satanic + Escort + The Storm on the Albert Lake + The Baggera + Lepidosiren Annecteus + The Murchison Falls, about 120 ft. high from the Victoria Nile + or Somerset River to the Level of the Albert Lake + The Welcome on our Return to the Camp at Shooa + Head of Black Rhinoceros + The Chief of the Lira Tribe + Skirmish with the Natives + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +The primary object of geographical exploration is the opening to general +intercourse such portions of the earth as may become serviceable to the +human race. The explorer is the precursor of the colonist; and the +colonist is the human instrument by which the great work must be +constructed--that greatest and most difficult of all undertakings--the +civilization of the world. + +The progress of civilization depends upon geographical position. The +surface of the earth presents certain facilities and obstacles to +general access; those points that are easily attainable must always +enjoy a superior civilization to those that are remote from association +with the world. + +We may thus assume that the advance of civilization is dependent upon +facility of transport. Countries naturally excluded from communication +may, through the ingenuity of man, be rendered accessible; the natural +productions of those lands may be transported to the seacoast in +exchange for foreign commodities; and commerce, thus instituted, becomes +the pioneer of civilization. + +England, the great chief of the commercial world, possesses a power that +enforces a grave responsibility. She has the force to civilize. She is +the natural colonizer of the world. In the short space of three +centuries, America, sprung from her loins, has become a giant offspring, +a new era in the history of the human race, a new birth whose future +must be overwhelming. Of later date, and still more rapid in +development, Australia rises, a triumphant proof of England's power to +rescue wild lands from barrenness; to wrest from utter savagedom those +mighty tracts of the earth's surface wasted from the creation of the +world,--a darkness to be enlightened by English colonization. Before the +advancing steps of civilization the savage inhabitants of dreary wastes +retreated: regions hitherto lain hidden, and counting as nothing in the +world's great total, have risen to take the lead in the world's great +future. + +Thus England's seed cast upon the earth's surface germinates upon soils +destined to reproduce her race. The energy and industry of the mother +country become the natural instincts of her descendants in localities +adapted for their development; and wherever Nature has endowed a land +with agricultural capabilities, and favourable geographical position, +slowly but surely that land will become a centre of civilization. + +True Christianity cannot exist apart from civilization; thus, the spread +of Christianity must depend upon the extension of civilization; and that +extension depends upon commerce. + +The philanthropist and the missionary will expend their noble energies +in vain in struggling against the obtuseness of savage hordes, until the +first steps towards their gradual enlightenment shall have been made by +commerce. The savage must learn to WANT; he must learn to be ambitious; +and to covet more than the mere animal necessities of food and drink. +This can alone be taught by a communication with civilized beings: the +sight of men well clothed will induce the naked savage to covet +clothing, and will create a WANT; the supply of this demand will be the +first step towards commerce. To obtain the supply, the savage must +produce some article in return as a medium of barter, some natural +production of his country adapted to the trader's wants. His wants will +increase as his ideas expand by communication with Europeans: thus, his +productions must increase in due proportion, and he must become +industrious; industry being the first grand stride towards civilization. + +The natural energy of all countries is influenced by climate; and +civilization being dependent upon industry, or energy, must accordingly +vary in its degrees according to geographical position. The natives of +tropical countries do not progress: enervated by intense heat, they +incline rather to repose and amusement than to labour. Free from the +rigour of winters, and the excitement of changes in the seasons, the +native character assumes the monotony of their country's temperature. +They have no natural difficulties to contend with,--no struggle with +adverse storms and icy winds and frost-bound soil; but an everlasting +summer, and fertile ground producing with little tillage, excite no +enterprise; and the human mind, unexercised by difficulties, sinks into +languor and decay. There are a lack of industry, a want of intensity of +character, a love of ease and luxury, which leads to a devotion to +sensuality,--to a plurality of wives, which lowers the character and +position of woman. Woman, reduced to that false position, ceases to +exercise her proper influence upon man; she becomes the mere slave of +passion, and, instead of holding her sphere as the emblem of +civilization she becomes its barrier. The absence of real love +engendered by a plurality of wives, is an absolute bar to progress; and +so long as polygamy exists, an extension of civilization is impossible. +In all tropical countries polygamy is the prevailing evil: this is the +greatest obstacle to Christianity. The Mahommedan religion, planned +carefully for Eastern habits, allowed a plurality of wives, and +prospered. The savage can be taught the existence of a Deity, and become +a Mussulman; but to him the hateful law of fidelity to one wife is a bar +to Christianity. Thus, in tropical climates there will always be a +slower advance of civilization than in more temperate zones. + +The highest civilization was originally confined to the small portion of +the globe comprised between Persia, Egypt, Greece, and Italy. In those +countries was concentrated the world's earliest history; and although +changed in special importance, they preserve their geographical +significance to the present day. + +The power and intelligence of man will have their highest development +within certain latitudes, and the natural passions and characters of +races will be governed by locality and the temperature of climate. + +There are certain attractions in localities that induce first +settlements of man; even as peculiar conditions of country attract both +birds and animals. The first want of man and beast is food: thus fertile +soil and abundant pasture, combined with good climate and water +communication, always ensure the settlement of man; while natural +seed-bearing grasses, forests, and prairies attract both birds and +beasts. The earth offers special advantages in various positions to both +man and beast; and such localities are, with few exceptions, naturally +inhabited. From the earliest creation there have been spots so +peculiarly favoured by nature, by geographical position, climate, and +fertility, that man has striven for their occupation, and they have +become scenes of contention for possession. Such countries have had a +powerful influence in the world's history, and such will be the great +pulses of civilization,--the sources from which in a future, however +distant, will flow the civilization of the world. Egypt is the land +whose peculiar capabilities have thus attracted the desires of conquest, +and with whom the world's earliest history is intimately connected. + +Egypt has been an extraordinary instance of the actual formation of a +country by alluvial deposit; it has been CREATED by a single river. The +great Sahara, that frightful desert of interminable scorching sand, +stretching from the Red Sea to the Atlantic, is cleft by one solitary +thread of water. Ages before man could have existed in that inhospitable +land, that thread of water was at its silent work: through countless +years it flooded and fell, depositing a rich legacy of soil upon the +barren sand until the delta was created; and man, at so remote a period +that we have no clue to an approximate date, occupied the fertile soil +thus born of the river Nile, and that corner of savage Africa, rescued +from its barrenness, became Egypt, and took the first rank in the +earth's history. + +For that extraordinary land the world has ever contended, and will yet +contend. + +From the Persian conquest to the present day, although the scene of +continual strife, Egypt has been an example of almost uninterrupted +productiveness. Its geographical position afforded peculiar advantages +for commercial enterprise. Bounded on the east by the Red Sea, on the +north by the Mediterranean, while the fertilizing Nile afforded inland +communication, Egypt became the most prosperous and civilized country of +the earth. Egypt was not only created by the Nile, but the very +existence of its inhabitants depended upon the annual inundation of that +river: thus all that related to the Nile was of vital importance to the +people; it was the hand that fed them. + +Egypt depending so entirely upon the river, it was natural that the +origin of those mysterious waters should have absorbed the attention of +thinking men. It was unlike all other rivers. In July and August, when +European streams were at their lowest in the summer heat, the Nile was +at the flood! In Egypt there was no rainfall--not even a drop of dew in +those parched deserts through which, for 860 miles of latitude, the +glorious river flowed without a tributary. Licked up by the burning sun, +and gulped by the exhausting sand of Nubian deserts, supporting all +losses by evaporation and absorption, the noble flood shed its annual +blessings upon Egypt. An anomaly among rivers; flooding in the driest +season; everlasting in sandy deserts; where was its hidden origin? where +were the sources of the Nile? + +This was from the earliest period the great geographical question to be +solved. + +In the advanced stage of civilization of the present era, we look with +regret at the possession by the Moslem of the fairest portions of the +world,--of countries so favoured by climate and by geographical +position, that, in the early days of the earth's history, they were the +spots most coveted; and that such favoured places should, through the +Moslem rule, be barred from the advancement that has attended lands less +adapted by nature for development. There are no countries of the earth +so valuable, or that would occupy so important a position in the family +of nations, as Turkey in Europe, Asia Minor, and Egypt, under a +civilized and Christian government. + +As the great highway to India, Egypt is the most interesting country to +the English. The extraordinary fertility being due entirely to the Nile, +I trust that I may have added my mite to the treasury of scientific +knowledge by completing the discovery of the sources of that wonderful +river, and thereby to have opened a way to the heart of Africa, which, +though dark in our limited perspective, may, at some future period, be +the path to civilization. + +I offer to the world my narrative of many years of hardships and +difficulties, happily not vainly spent in this great enterprise: should +some un-ambitious spirits reflect, that the results are hardly worth the +sacrifice of the best years of life thus devoted to exile and suffering, +let them remember that "we are placed on earth for a certain period, to +fulfil, according to our several conditions and degrees of mind, those +duties by which the earth's history is carried on." (E. L. Bulwer's +"Life, Literature, and Manners.") + + +THE ALBERT N'YANZA. + +CHAPTER I. + +THE EXPEDITION + +In March, 1861, I commenced an expedition to discover the sources of the +Nile, with the hope of meeting the East African expedition of Captains +Speke and Grant, that had been sent by the English Government from the +South via Zanzibar, for that object. I had not the presumption to +publish my intention, as the sources of the Nile had hitherto defied all +explorers, but I had inwardly determined to accomplish this difficult +task or to die in the attempt. From my youth I had been inured to +hardships and endurance in wild sports in tropical climates, and when I +gazed upon the map of Africa I had a wild hope, mingled with humility, +that, even as the insignificant worm bores through the hardest oak, I +might by perseverance reach the heart of Africa. + +I could not conceive that anything in this world had power to resist a +determined will, so long as health and life remained. The failure of +every former attempt to reach the Nile source did not astonish me, as +the expeditions had consisted of parties, which, when difficulties +occur, generally end in difference of opinion and retreat: I therefore +determined to proceed alone, trusting in the guidance of a Divine +Providence and the good fortune that sometimes attends a tenacity of +purpose. I weighed carefully the chances of the undertaking. Before +me--untrodden Africa; against me--the obstacles that had defeated the +world since its creation; on my side--a somewhat tough constitution, +perfect independence, a long experience in savage life, and both time +and means which I intended to devote to the object without limit. +England had never sent an expedition to the Nile sources previous to +that under the command of Speke and Grant. Bruce, ninety years ago, had +succeeded in tracing the source of the Blue or Lesser Nile: thus the +honour of that discovery belonged to Great Britain; Speke was on his +road from the South; and I felt confident that my gallant friend would +leave his bones upon the path rather than submit to failure. I trusted +that England would not be beaten; and although I hardly dared to hope +that I could succeed where others greater than I had failed, I +determined to sacrifice all in the attempt. Had I been alone it would +have been no hard lot to die upon the untrodden path before me, but +there was one who, although my greatest comfort, was also my greatest +care; one whose life yet dawned at so early an age that womanhood was +still a future. I shuddered at the prospect for her, should she be left +alone in savage lands at my death; and gladly would I have left her in +the luxuries of home instead of exposing her to the miseries of Africa. + +It was in vain that I implored her to remain, and that I painted the +difficulties and perils still blacker than I supposed they really would +be: she was resolved, with woman's constancy and devotion, to share all +dangers and to follow me through each rough footstep of the wild life +before me. "And Ruth said, Entreat me not to leave thee, or to return +from following after thee: for whither thou goest I will go, and where +thou lodgest I will lodge; thy people shall be my people, and thy God my +God: where thou diest will I die; and there will I be buried: the Lord +do so to me, and more also, if aught but death part thee and me." + +Thus accompanied by my wife, on the 15th April 1861, I sailed up the +Nile from Cairo. The wind blew fair and strong from the north, and we +flew towards the south against the stream, watching those mysterious +waters with a firm resolve to track them to their distant fountain. + +On arrival at Korosko, in Lat. 22 degrees 44 minutes, in twenty-six days +from Cairo, we started across the Nubian desert, thus cutting off the +western bend of the Nile, and in seven days' forced camel march we again +reached the river Abou Hamed. The journey through that desert is most +fatiguing, as the march averages fifteen hours a day through a +wilderness of scorching sand and glowing basalt rocks. The simoom was in +full force at that season (May), and the thermometer, placed in the +shade by the water skins, stood at 114 degrees Fahrenheit. + +No drinkable water was procurable on the route; thus our supply was +nearly expended upon reaching the welcome Nile. After eight days' march +on the margin of the river from Abou Hamed through desert, but in view +of the palm trees that bordered the river, we arrived at Berber, a +considerable town in lat. 17 degrees 58 minutes on the banks of the +Nile. + +Berber is eight days' camel march from Khartoum (at the junction of the +White and Blue Niles, in lat. 15 degrees 30 minutes), and is the regular +caravan route between that town and Cairo. + +From the slight experience I had gained in the journey to Berber, I felt +convinced that success in my Nile expedition would be impossible without +a knowledge of Arabic. My dragoman had me completely in his power, and I +resolved to become independent of all interpreters as soon as possible. +I therefore arranged a plan of exploration for the first year, to +embrace the affluents to the Nile from the Abyssinian range of +mountains, intending to follow up the Atbara river from its junction +with the Nile in lat. 17 degrees 37 minutes (twenty miles south of +Berber), and to examine all the Nile tributaries from the southeast as +far as the Blue Nile, which river I hoped ultimately to descend to +Khartoum. I imagined that twelve months would be sufficient to complete +such an exploration, by which time I should have gained a sufficient +knowledge of Arabic to enable me to start from Khartoum for my White +Nile expedition. Accordingly I left Berber on the 11th June, 1861, and +arrived at the Atbara junction with the Nile on the 13th. + +There is no portion of the Nile so great in its volume as that part +situated at the Atbara junction. The river Atbara is about 450 yards in +average width, and from twenty-five to thirty feet deep during the rainy +season. It brings down the entire drainage of Eastern Abyssinia, +receiving as affluents into its main stream the great rivers Taccazy (or +Settite), in addition to the Salaam and Angrab. The junction of the +Atbara in lat. 17 degrees 37 minutes N. is thus, in a direct line from +Alexandria, about 840 geographical miles of latitude, and, including the +westerly bend of the Nile, its bed will be about eleven hundred miles in +length from the mouth of its last tributary, the Atbara, until it meets +the sea. Thus, eleven hundred miles of absorption and evaporation +through sandy deserts and the delta must be sustained by the river +between the Atbara junction and the Mediterranean: accordingly there is +an immense loss of water; and the grandest volume of the Nile must be +just below the Atbara junction. + +It is not my intention in the present work to enter into the details of +my first year's exploration on the Abyssinian frontier; that being so +extensive and so completely isolated from the grand White Nile +expedition, that an amalgamation of the two would create confusion. I +shall therefore reserve the exploration of the Abyssinian tributaries +for a future publication, and confine my present description of the +Abyssinian rivers to a general outline of the Atbara and Blue Nile, +showing the origin of their floods and their effect upon the inundations +in Lower Egypt. + +I followed the banks of the Atbara to the junction of the Settite or +Taccazy river; I then followed the latter grand stream into the +Abyssinian mountains in the Base country. From thence I crossed over to +the rivers Salaam and Angrab, at the foot of the magnificent range of +mountains from which they flow direct into the Atbara. Having explored +those rivers, I passed through an extensive and beautiful tract of +country forming a portion of Abyssinia on the south bank of the river +Salaam; and again crossing the Atbara, I arrived at the frontier town of +Gellabat, known by Bruce as "Ras el Feel." Marching due west from that +point I arrived at the river Rahad, in about lat. 12 degrees 30 minutes; +descending its banks I crossed over a narrow strip of country to the +west, arriving at the river Dinder, and following these streams to their +junction with the Blue Nile, I descended that grand river to Khartoum, +having been exactly twelve months from the day I had left Berber. + +The whole of the above-mentioned rivers--i.e. the Atbara, Settite, +Salaam, Angrab, Rahad, Dinder, and Blue Nile--are the great drains of +Abyssinia, all having a uniform course from southeast to northwest, and +meeting the main Nile in two mouths; by the Blue Nile at Khartoum, 15 +degrees 30 minutes, and by the Atbara, in lat. 17 degrees 37 minutes. +The Blue Nile during the dry season is so reduced that there is not +sufficient water for the small vessels engaged in transporting produce +from Sennaar to Khartoum; at that time the water is beautifully clear, +and, reflecting the cloudless sky, its colour has given it the +well-known name of Bahr el Azrak, or Blue River. No water is more +delicious than that of the Blue Nile; in great contrast to that of the +White river, which is never clear, and has a disagreeable taste of +vegetation. This difference in the quality of the waters is a +distinguishing characteristic of the two rivers: the one, the Blue Nile, +is a rapid mountain stream, rising and falling with great rapidity; the +other is of lake origin, flowing through vast marshes. The course of the +Blue Nile is through fertile soil; thus there is a trifling loss by +absorption, and during the heavy rains a vast amount of earthy matter of +a red colour is contributed by its waters to the general fertilizing +deposit of the Nile in Lower Egypt. + +The Atbara, although so important a river in the rainy season of +Abyssinia, is perfectly dry for several months during the year, and at +the time I first saw it, June 13, 1861, it was a mere sheet of glaring +sand; in fact a portion of the desert through which it flowed. For +upwards of one hundred and fifty miles from its junction with the Nile, +it is perfectly dry from the beginning of March to June. At intervals of +a few miles there are pools or ponds of water left in the deep holes +below the general average of the river's bed. In these pools, some of +which may be a mile in length, are congregated all the inhabitants of +the river, who as the stream disappears are forced to close quarters in +these narrow asylums; thus, crocodiles, hippopotami, fish, and large +turtle are crowded in extraordinary numbers, until the commencement of +the rains in Abyssinia once more sets them at liberty by sending down a +fresh volume to the river. The rainy season commences in Abyssinia in +the middle of May, but the country being parched by the summer heat, the +first rains are absorbed by the soil, and the torrents do not fill until +the middle of June. + +From June to the middle of September the storms are terrific; every +ravine becomes a raging torrent; trees are rooted up by the mountain +streams swollen above their banks, and the Atbara becomes a vast river, +bringing down with an overwhelming current the total drainage of four +large rivers--the Settite, Royan, Salaam, and Angrab--in addition to its +own original volume. Its waters are dense with soil washed from most +fertile lands far from its point of junction with the Nile; masses of +bamboo and driftwood, together with large trees, and frequently the dead +bodies of elephants and buffaloes, are hurled along its muddy waters in +wild confusion, bringing a rich harvest to the Arabs on its banks, who +are ever on the look-out for the river's treasures of fuel and timber. + +The Blue Nile and the Atbara receiving the entire drainage of Abyssinia, +at the same time pour their floods into the main Nile in the middle of +June. At that season the White Nile is at a considerable level, although +not at its HIGHEST; and the sudden rush of water descending from +Abyssinia into the main channel, already at a fair level from the White +Nile, causes the annual inundation in Lower Egypt. + +During the year that I passed in the northern portion of Abyssinia and +its frontiers, the rains continued with great violence for three months, +the last shower falling on the 16th September, from which date there was +neither dew nor rain until the following May. The great rivers expended, +and the mountain torrents dried up; the Atbara disappeared, and once +more became a sheet of glaring sand. The rivers Settite, Salaam, and +Angrab, although much reduced, are nevertheless perennial streams, +flowing into the Atbara from the lofty Abyssinian mountains; but the +parched, sandy bed of the latter river absorbs the entire supply, nor +does one drop of water reach the Nile from the Atbara during the dry +season. The wonderful absorption by the sand of that river is an +illustration of the impotence of the Blue Nile to contend unaided with +the Nubian deserts, which, were it not for the steady volume of the +White Nile, would drink every drop of water before the river could pass +the twenty-fifth degree of latitude. + +The principal affluents of the Blue Nile are the Rahad and Dinder, +flowing, like all others, from Abyssinia. The Rahad is entirely dry +during the dry season, and the Dinder is reduced to a succession of deep +pools, divided by sandbanks, the bed of the river being exposed. These +pools are the resort of numerous hippopotami and the natural inhabitants +of the river. + +Having completed the exploration of the various affluents to the Nile +from Abyssinia, passing through the Base country and the portion of +Abyssinia occupied by Mek Nimmur, I arrived at Khartoum, the capital of +the Soudan provinces, on the 11th June, 1862. + +Khartoum is situated in lat. 15 degrees 29 minutes, on a point of land +forming the angle between the White and Blue Niles at their junction. A +more miserable, filthy, and unhealthy spot can hardly be imagined. Far +as the eye can reach, upon all sides, is a sandy desert. The town, +chiefly composed of huts of unburnt brick, extends over a flat hardly +above the level of the river at high water, and is occasionally flooded. +Although containing about 30,000 inhabitants, and densely crowded, there +are neither drains nor cesspools: the streets are redolent with +inconceivable nuisances; should animals die, they remain where they +fall, to create pestilence and disgust. There are, nevertheless, a few +respectable houses, occupied by the traders of the country, a small +proportion of whom are Italians, French, and Germans, the European +population numbering about thirty. Greeks, Syrians, Copts, Armenians, +Turks, Arabs, and Egyptians, form the motley inhabitants of Khartoum. + +There are consuls for France, Austria, and America, and with much +pleasure I acknowledge many kind attentions, and assistance received +from the two former, M. Thibaut and Herr Hansall. + +Khartoum is the seat of government, the Soudan provinces being under the +control of a Governor-general, with despotic power. In 1861, there were +about six thousand troops quartered in the town; a portion of these were +Egyptians; other regiments were composed of blacks from Kordofan, and +from the White and Blue Niles, with one regiment of Arnouts, and a +battery of artillery. These troops are the curse of the country: as in +the case of most Turkish and Egyptian officials, the receipt of pay is +most irregular, and accordingly the soldiers are under loose discipline. +Foraging and plunder is the business of the Egyptian soldier, and the +miserable natives must submit to insult and ill-treatment at the will of +the brutes who pillage them ad libitum. + +In 1862, Moosa Pasha was the Governor-general of the Soudan. This man +was a rather exaggerated specimen of Turkish authorities in general, +combining the worst of Oriental failings with the brutality of a wild +animal. During his administration the Soudan became utterly ruined; +governed by military force, the revenue was unequal to the expenditure, +and fresh taxes were levied upon the inhabitants to an extent that +paralyzed the entire country. The Turk never improves. There is an Arab +proverb that "the grass never grows in the footprint of a Turk," and +nothing can be more aptly expressive of the character of the nation than +this simple adage. Misgovernment, monopoly, extortion, and oppression, +are the certain accompaniments of Turkish administration. At a great +distance from all civilization, and separated from Lower Egypt by the +Nubian deserts, Khartoum affords a wide field for the development of +Egyptian official character. Every official plunders; the +Governor-general extorts from all sides; he fills his private pockets by +throwing every conceivable obstacle in the way of progress, and +embarrasses every commercial movement in order to extort bribes from +individuals. Following the general rule of his predecessors, a new +governor upon arrival exhibits a spasmodic energy. Attended by cavasses +and soldiers, he rides through every street of Khartoum, abusing the +underlings for past neglect, ordering the streets to be swept, and the +town to be thoroughly cleansed; he visits the marketplace, examines the +quality of the bread at the bakers' stalls, and the meat at the +butchers'. He tests the accuracy of the weights and scales; fines and +imprisons the impostors, and institutes a complete reform, concluding +his sanitary and philanthropic arrangements by the imposition of some +local taxes. + +The town is comparatively sweet; the bread is of fair weight and size, +and the new governor, like a new broom, has swept all clean. A few weeks +glide away, and the nose again recalls the savory old times when streets +were never swept, and filth once more reigns paramount. The town +relapses into its former state, again the false weights usurp the place +of honest measures, and the only permanent and visible sign of the new +administration is the local tax. + +From the highest to the lowest official, dishonesty and deceit are the +rule--and each robs in proportion to his grade in the Government +employ--the onus of extortion falling upon the natives; thus, exorbitant +taxes are levied upon the agriculturists, and the industry of the +inhabitants is disheartened by oppression. The taxes are collected by +the soldiery, who naturally extort by violence an excess of the actual +impost; accordingly the Arabs limit their cultivation to their bare +necessities, fearing that a productive farm would entail an extortionate +demand. The heaviest and most unjust tax is that upon the "sageer," or +water wheel, by which the farmer irrigates his otherwise barren soil. + +The erection of the sageer is the first step necessary to cultivation. +On the borders of the river there is much land available for +agriculture; but from an almost total want of rain the ground must be +constantly irrigated by artificial means. No sooner does an enterprising +fellow erect a water wheel, than he is taxed, not only for his wheel, +but he brings upon himself a perfect curse, as the soldiers employed for +the collection of taxes fasten upon his garden, and insist upon a +variety of extras in the shape of butter, corn, vegetables, sheep, &c. +for themselves, which almost ruin the proprietor. Any government but +that of Egypt and Turkey would offer a bonus for the erection of +irrigating machinery that would give a stimulus to cultivation, and +multiply the produce of the country; but the only rule without an +exception is that of Turkish extortion. I have never met with any +Turkish official who would take the slightest interest in plans for the +improvement of the country, unless he discovered a means of filling his +private purse. Thus in a country where Nature has been hard in her +measure dealt to the inhabitants, they are still more reduced by +oppression. The Arabs fly from their villages on the approach of the +brutal tax-gatherers, driving their flocks and herds with them to +distant countries, and leaving their standing crops to the mercy of the +soldiery. No one can conceive the suffering of the country. + +The general aspect of the Soudan is that of misery; nor is there a +single feature of attraction to recompense a European for the drawbacks +of pestilential climate and brutal associations. To a stranger it +appears a superlative folly that the Egyptian Government should have +retained a possession, the occupation of which is wholly unprofitable; +the receipts being far below the expenditure, "malgre" the increased +taxation. At so great a distance from the seacoast and hemmed in by +immense deserts, there is a difficulty of transport that must nullify +all commercial transactions on an extended scale. + +The great and most important article of commerce as an export from the +Soudan, is gum arabic: this is produced by several species of mimosa, +the finest quality being a product of Kordofan; the other natural +productions exported are senna, hides, and ivory. All merchandise both +to and from the Soudan must be transported upon camels, no other animals +being adapted to the deserts. The cataracts of the Nile between Assouan +and Khartoum rendering the navigation next to impossible, the camel is +the only medium of transport, and the uncertainty of procuring them +without great delay is the trader's greatest difficulty. The entire +country is subject to droughts that occasion a total desolation, and the +want of pasture entails starvation upon both cattle and camels, +rendering it at certain seasons impossible to transport the productions +of the country, and thus stagnating all enterprise. Upon existing +conditions the Soudan is worthless, having neither natural capabilities +nor political importance; but there is, nevertheless, a reason that +first prompted its occupation by the Egyptians, and that is in force to +the present day. THE SOUDAN SUPPLIES SLAVES. Without the White Nile +trade Khartoum would almost cease to exist; and that trade is kidnapping +and murder. The character of the Khartoumers needs no further comment. +The amount of ivory brought down from the White Nile is a mere bagatelle +as an export, the annual value being about 40,000 pounds. + +The people for the most part engaged in the nefarious traffic of the +White Nile are Syrians, Copts, Turks, Circassians, and some few +EUROPEANS. So closely connected with the difficulties of my expedition +is that accursed slave trade, that the so-called ivory trade of the +White Nile requires an explanation. + +Throughout the Soudan money is exceedingly scarce and the rate of +interest exorbitant, varying, according to the securities, from +thirty-six to eighty percent; this fact proves general poverty and +dishonesty, and acts as a preventive to all improvement. So high and +fatal a rate deters all honest enterprise, and the country must lie in +ruin under such a system. The wild speculator borrows upon such terms, +to rise suddenly like a rocket, or to fall like its exhausted stick. +Thus, honest enterprise being impossible, dishonesty takes the lead, and +a successful expedition to the White Nile is supposed to overcome all +charges. There are two classes of White Nile traders, the one possessing +capital, the other being penniless adventurers; the same system of +operations is pursued by both, but that of the former will be evident +from the description of the latter. + +A man without means forms an expedition, and borrows money for this +purpose at 100 percent after this fashion. He agrees to repay the lender +in ivory at one-half its market value. Having obtained the required sum, +he hires several vessels and engages from 100 to 300 men, composed of +Arabs and runaway villains from distant countries, who have found an +asylum from justice in the obscurity of Khartoum. He purchases guns and +large quantities of ammunition for his men, together with a few hundred +pounds of glass beads. The piratical expedition being complete, he pays +his men five months' wages in advance, at the rate of forty-five +piastres (nine shillings) per month, and he agrees to give them eighty +piastres per month for any period exceeding the five months advanced. +His men receive their advance partly in cash and partly in cotton stuffs +for clothes at an exorbitant price. Every man has a strip of paper, upon +which is written by the clerk of the expedition the amount he has +received both in goods and money, and this paper he must produce at the +final settlement. + +The vessels sail about December, and on arrival at the desired locality, +the party disembark and proceed into the interior, until they arrive at +the village of some negro chief, with whom they establish an intimacy. +Charmed with his new friends, the power of whose weapons he +acknowledges, the negro chief does not neglect the opportunity of +seeking their alliance to attack a hostile neighbour. Marching +throughout the night, guided by their negro hosts, they bivouac within +an hour's march of the unsuspecting village doomed to an attack about +half an hour before break of day. The time arrives, and, quietly +surrounding the village while its occupants are still sleeping, they +fire the grass huts in all directions, and pour volleys of musketry +through the flaming thatch. Panic-stricken, the unfortunate victims rush +from their burning dwellings, and the men are shot down like pheasants +in a battue, while the women and children, bewildered in the danger and +confusion, are kidnapped and secured. The herds of cattle, still within +their kraal or "zareeba," are easily disposed of, and are driven off +with great rejoicing, as the prize of victory. The women and children +are then fastened together, the former secured in an instrument called a +sheba, made of a forked pole, the neck of the prisoner fitting into the +fork, secured by a cross piece lashed behind; while the wrists, brought +together in advance of the body, are tied to the pole. The children are +then fastened by their necks with a rope attached to the women, and thus +form a living chain, in which order they are marched to the headquarters +in company with the captured herds. + +This is the commencement of business: should there be ivory in any of +the huts not destroyed by the fire, it is appropriated; a general +plunder takes place. The trader's party dig up the floors of the huts to +search for iron hoes, which are generally thus concealed, as the +greatest treasure of the negroes; the granaries are overturned and +wantonly destroyed, and the hands are cut off the bodies of the slain, +the more easily to detach the copper or iron bracelets that are usually +worn. With this booty the traders return to their negro ally: they have +thrashed and discomfited his enemy, which delights him; they present him +with thirty or forty head of cattle, which intoxicates him with joy, and +a present of a pretty little captive girl of about fourteen completes +his happiness. + +But business only commenced. The negro covets cattle, and the trader has +now captured perhaps 2,000 head. They are to be had for ivory, and +shortly the tusks appear. Ivory is daily brought into camp in exchange +for cattle, a tusk for a cow, according to size--a profitable business, +as the cows have cost nothing. The trade proves brisk; but still there +remain some little customs to be observed--some slight formalities, well +understood by the White Nile trade. The slaves and two-thirds of the +captured cattle belong to the trader, but his men claim as their +perquisite one-third of the stolen animals. These having been divided, +the slaves are put up to public auction among the men, who purchase such +as they require; the amount being entered on the papers (serki) of the +purchasers, to be reckoned against their wages. To avoid the exposure, +should the document fall into the hands of the Government or European +consuls, the amount is not entered as for the purchase of a slave, but +is divided for fictitious supplies--thus, should a slave be purchased +for 1,000 piastres, that amount would appear on the document somewhat as +follows: + + Soap . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Piastres. + Tarboash(cap) . . . . . . . . . 100 + Araki . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500 + Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 + Cotton Cloth . . . . . . . . . 150 + Total 1,000 + +The slaves sold to the men are constantly being changed and resold among +themselves; but should the relatives of the kidnapped women and children +wish to ransom them, the trader takes them from his men, cancels the +amount of purchase, and restores them to their relations for a certain +number of elephants' tusks, as may be agreed upon. Should any slave +attempt to escape, she is punished either by brutal flogging, or shot or +hanged, as a warning to others. + +An attack or razzia, such as described, generally leads to a quarrel +with the negro ally, who in his turn is murdered and plundered by the +trader--his women and children naturally becoming slaves. + +A good season for a party of a hundred and fifty men should produce +about two hundred cantars (20,000 lbs.) of ivory, valued at Khartoum at +4,000 pounds. The men being paid in slaves, the wages should be nil, and +there should be a surplus of four or five hundred slaves for the +trader's own profit--worth on an average five to six pounds each. + +The boats are accordingly packed with a human cargo, and a portion of +the trader's men accompany them to the Soudan, while the remainder of +the party form a camp or settlement in the country they have adopted, +and industriously plunder, massacre, and enslave, until their master's +return with the boats from Khartoum in the following season, by which +time they are supposed to have a cargo of slaves and ivory ready for +shipment. The business thus thoroughly established, the slaves are +landed at various points within a few days' journey of Khartoum, at +which places are agents, or purchasers; waiting to receive them with +dollars prepared for cash payments. The purchasers and dealers are, for +the most part, Arabs. The slaves are then marched across the country to +different places; many to Sennaar, where they are sold to other dealers, +who sell them to the Arabs and to the Turks. Others are taken immense +distances to ports on the Red Sea, Souakim, and Masowa, there to be +shipped for Arabia and Persia. Many are sent to Cairo, and in fact they +are disseminated throughout the slave-dealing East, the White Nile being +the great nursery for the supply. + +The amiable trader returns from the White Nile to Khartoum; hands over +to his creditor sufficient ivory to liquidate the original loan of +1,000 pounds, and, already a man of capital, he commences as an +independent trader. + +Such was the White Nile trade when I prepared to start from Khartoum on +my expedition to the Nile sources. Every one in Khartoum, with the +exception of a few Europeans, was in favor of the slave trade, and +looked with jealous eyes upon a stranger venturing within the precincts +of their holy land; a land sacred to slavery and to every abomination +and villany that man can commit. + +The Turkish officials pretended to discountenance slavery: at the same +time every house in Khartoum was full of slaves, and the Egyptian +officers had been in the habit of receiving a portion of their pay in +slaves, precisely as the men employed on the White Nile were paid by +their employers. The Egyptian authorities looked upon the exploration of +the White Nile by a European traveller as an infringement of their slave +territory that resulted from espionage, and every obstacle was thrown in +my way. + +Foreseeing many difficulties, I had been supplied, before leaving Egypt, +with a firman from H. E. Said Pasha the Viceroy, by the request of H. B. +M. agent, Sir R. Colquhoun; but this document was ignored by the +Governor-general of the Soudan, Moosa Pasha, under the miserable +prevarication that the firman was for the Pasha's dominions and for the +Nile; whereas the White Nile was not accepted as the Nile, but was known +as the White River. I was thus refused boats, and in fact all +assistance. + +To organize an enterprise so difficult that it had hitherto defeated the +whole world required a careful selection of attendants, and I looked +with despair at the prospect before me. The only men procurable for +escort were the miserable cutthroats of Khartoum, accustomed to murder +and pillage. in the White Nile trade, and excited not by the love of +adventure but by the desire for plunder: to start with such men appeared +mere insanity. There was a still greater difficulty in connection with +the White Nile. For years the infernal traffic in slaves and its +attendant horrors had existed like a pestilence in the negro countries, +and had so exasperated the tribes, that people who in former times were +friendly had become hostile to all comers. An exploration to the Nile +sources was thus a march through an enemy's country, and required a +powerful force of well-armed men. For the traders there was no great +difficulty, as they took the initiative in hostilities, and had fixed +camps as "points d'appui;" but for an explorer there was no alternative +but a direct forward march without any communications with the rear. I +had but slight hope of success without assistance from the authorities +in the shape of men accustomed to discipline; I accordingly wrote to the +British consul at Alexandria, and requested him to apply for a few +soldiers and boats to aid me in so difficult an enterprise. After some +months' delay, owing to the great distance from Khartoum, I received a +reply enclosing a letter from Ishmael Pasha (the present Viceroy), the +regent during the absence of Said Pasha, REFUSING the application. + +I confess to the enjoyment of a real difficulty. From the first I had +observed that the Egyptian authorities did not wish to encourage English +explorations of the slave-producing districts, as such examinations +would be detrimental to the traffic, and would lead to reports to the +European governments that would ultimately prohibit the trade; it was +perfectly clear that the utmost would be done to prevent my expedition +from starting. This opposition gave a piquancy to the undertaking, and I +resolved that nothing should thwart my plans. Accordingly I set to work +in earnest. I had taken the precaution to obtain an order upon the +Treasury at Khartoum for what money I required, and as ready cash +performs wonders in that country of credit and delay, I was within a few +weeks ready to start. I engaged three vessels, including two large +noggurs or sailing barges, and a good decked vessel with comfortable +cabins, known by all Nile tourists as a diahbiah. + +The preparations for such a voyage are no trifles. I required forty-five +armed men as escort, forty men as sailors, which, with servants, &c., +raised my party to ninety-six. The voyage to Gondokoro, the navigable +limit of the Nile, was reported to be from forty-five to fifty days from +Khartoum, but provisions were necessary for four months, as the boatmen +would return to Khartoum with the vessels, after landing me and my +party. In the hope of meeting Speke and Grant's party, I loaded the +boats with an extra quantity of corn, making a total of a hundred urdeps +(rather exceeding 400 bushels). I had arranged the boats to carry +twenty-one donkeys, four camels, and four horses; which I hoped would +render me independent of porters, the want of transport being the great +difficulty. The saddles, packs, and pads were all made under my own +superintendence; nor was the slightest trifle neglected in the necessary +arrangements for success. In all the detail, I was much assisted by a +most excellent man whom I had engaged to accompany me as my head man, a +German carpenter, Johann Schmidt. I had formerly met him hunting on the +banks of the Settite river, in the Base country, where he was +purchasing living animals from the Arabs, for a contractor to a +menagerie in Europe; he was an excellent sportsman, and an energetic and +courageous fellow; perfectly sober and honest. Alas! "the spirit was +willing, but the flesh was weak," and a hollow cough, and emaciation, +attended with hurried respiration, suggested disease of the lungs. Day +after day he faded gradually, and I endeavoured to persuade him not to +venture upon such a perilous journey as that before me: nothing would +persuade him that he was in danger, and he had an idea that the climate +of Khartoum was more injurious than the White Nile, and that the voyage +would improve his health. Full of good feeling, and a wish to please, he +persisted in working and perfecting the various arrangements, when he +should have been saving his strength for a severer trial. + +Meanwhile, my preparations progressed. I had clothed my men all in +uniform, and had armed them with double-barrelled guns and rifles. I +had explained to them thoroughly the object of my journey, and that +implicit obedience would be enforced, so long as they were in my +service; that no plunder would be permitted, and that their names were +to be registered at the public Divan before they started. They promised +fidelity and devotion, but a greater set of scoundrels in physiognomy I +never encountered. Each man received five months' wages in advance, and +I gave them an entertainment, with abundance to eat and drink, to enable +them to start in good humor. + +We were just ready to start; the supplies were all on board, the donkeys +and horses were shipped, when an officer arrived from the Divan, to +demand from me the poll tax that Moosa Pasha, the Governor-general, had +recently levied upon the inhabitants; and to inform me, that in the +event of my refusing to pay the said tax for each of my men, amounting +to one month's wages per head, he should detain my boats. I ordered my +captain to hoist the British flag upon each of the three boats, and sent +my compliments to the Government official, telling him that I was +neither a Turkish subject nor a trader, but an English explorer; that I +was not responsible for the tax, and that if any Turkish official should +board my boat, under the British flag, I should take the liberty of +throwing him overboard. This announcement appeared so practical, that +the official hurriedly departed, while I marched my men on board, and +ordered the boatmen to get ready to start. Just at that moment, a +Government vessel, by the merest chance, came swiftly down the river +under sail, and in the clumsiest manner crashed right into us. The oars +being lashed in their places on my boat, ready to start, were broken to +pieces by the other vessel, which, fouling another of my boats just +below, became fixed. The reis, or captain of the Government boat that +had caused the mischief, far from apologizing, commenced the foulest +abuse; and refused to give oars in exchange for those he had destroyed. +To start was impossible without oars, and an angry altercation being +carried on between my men and the Government boat, it was necessary to +come to closer quarters. The reis of the Government boat was a gigantic +black, a Tokrouri (native of Darfur), who, confident in his strength, +challenged any one to come on board, nor did any of my fellows respond +to the invitation. The insolence of Turkish Government officials is +beyond description--my oars were smashed, and this insult was the +reparation; so, stepping quickly on board, and brushing a few fellows on +one side, I was obliged to come to a physical explanation with the +captain, which terminated in a delivery of the oars. The bank of the +river was thronged with people, many were mere idlers attracted by the +bustle of the start, and others, the friends and relatives of my people, +who had come to say a last good-bye, with many women, to raise the Arab +cry of parting. Among others, was a tall, debauched-looking fellow, +excessively drunk and noisy, who, quarrelling with a woman who attempted +to restrain him, insisted upon addressing a little boy named Osman, +declaring that he should not accompany me unless he gave him a dollar to +get some drink. Osman was a sharp Arab boy of twelve years old, whom I +had engaged as one of the tent servants, and the drunken Arab was his +father, who wished to extort some cash from his son before he parted; +but the boy Osman showed his filial affection in a most touching manner, +by running into the cabin, and fetching a powerful hippopotamus whip, +with which he requested me to have his father thrashed, or "he would +never be gone." Without indulging this amiable boy's desire, we shoved +off; the three vessels rowed into the middle of the river, and hoisted +sail; a fair wind, and strong current, moved us rapidly down the stream; +the English flags fluttered gaily on the masts, and amidst the shouting +of farewells, and the rattling of musketry, we started for the sources +of the Nile. On passing the steamer belonging to the Dutch ladies, +Madame van Capellan, and her charming daughter, Mademoiselle Tinne, we +saluted them with a volley, and kept up a mutual waving of handkerchiefs +until out of view; little did we think that we should never meet those +kind faces again, and that so dreadful a fate would envelope almost the +entire party. [The entire party died of fever on the White Nile, +excepting Mademoiselle Tinne. The victims to the fatal climate of +Central Africa were Madame la Baronne van Capellan, her sister, two +Dutch maidservants, Dr. Steudner, and Signor Contarini.] + +It was the 18th December, 1862, Thursday, one of the most lucky days for +a start, according to Arab superstition. In a few minutes we reached the +acute angle round which we had to turn sharply into the White Nile at +its junction with the Blue. It was blowing hard, and in tacking round +the point one of the noggurs carried away her yard, which fell upon deck +and snapped in half, fortunately without injuring either men or donkeys. +The yard being about a hundred feet in length, was a complicated affair +to splice; thus a delay took place in the act of starting which was +looked upon as a bad omen by my superstitious followers. The voyage up +the White Nile I now extract verbatim from my journal. + +Friday, 19th Dec.--At daybreak took down the mast and unshipped all the +rigging; hard at work splicing the yard. The men of course wished to +visit their friends at Khartoum. Gave strict orders that no man should +leave the boats. One of the horsekeepers absconded before daybreak; sent +after him. The junction of the two Niles is a vast flat as far as the +eye can reach, the White Nile being about two miles broad some distance +above the point. Saati, my vakeel (headman), is on board one noggur as +chief; Johann on board the other, while I being on the diahbiah I trust +all the animals will be well cared for. I am very fearful of Johann's +state of health: the poor fellow is mere skin and bone, and I am afraid +his lungs are affected; he has fever again today; I have sent him +quinine and wine, &c. + +20th Dec.--The whole of yesterday employed in splicing yard, repairing +mast, and re-rigging. At 8.30 A.M. we got away with a spanking breeze. +The diahbiah horridly leaky. The "tree," or rendezvous for all boats +when leaving for the White Nile voyage, consists of three large mimosas +about four miles from the point of junction. The Nile at this spot about +two miles wide--dead flat banks--mimosas on west bank. My two cabin +boys are very useful, and Osman's ringing laugh and constant +impertinence to the crew and soldiers keep the boat alive; he is a +capital boy, a perfect gamin, and being a tailor by trade he is very +useful: this accounts for his father wishing to detain him. The horses +and donkeys very snug on board. At 1 p.m. passed Gebel Ouli, a small +hill on south bank--course S.W. 1/2 S. At 8.30 p.m. reached Cetene, a +village of mixed Arabs on the east bank--anchored. + +21st Dec.--All day busy clearing decks, caulking ship, and making room +for the camels on the noggurs, as this is the village to which I had +previously sent two men to select camels and to have them in readiness +for my arrival. The men have been selecting sweethearts instead; thus I +must wait here tomorrow, that being the "Soog" or market day, when I +shall purchase my camels and milch goats. The banks of the river very +uninteresting--flat, desert, and mimosa bush. The soil is not so rich +as on the banks of the Blue Nile--the dhurra (grain) is small. The Nile +is quite two miles wide up to this point, and the high-water mark is not +more than five feet above the present level. The banks shelve gradually +like the sands at low tide in England, and quite unlike the +perpendicular banks of the Blue Nile. Busy at gunsmith's work. The +nights and mornings are now cold, from 60 degrees to 62 degrees F. +Johann makes me very anxious: I much fear he cannot last long, unless +some sudden change for the better takes place. + +22d Dec.--Selected two fine camels and shipped them in slings with some +difficulty. Bought four oxen at nine herias each (l5s.); the men +delighted at the work of slaughtering, and jerking the meat for the +voyage. Bought four milch goats at 9 ps. each, and laid in a large stock +of dhurra straw for the animals. Got all my men on board and sailed at +4.30 p.m., course due west; variation allowed for. I have already +reduced my men from wolves to lambs, and I should like to see the +outrageous acts of mutiny which are the scapegoats of the traders for +laying their atrocities upon the men's shoulders. I cannot agree with +some writers in believing that personal strength is unnecessary to a +traveller. In these savage countries it adds materially to the success +of an expedition, provided that it be combined with kindness of manner, +justice, and unflinching determination. Nothing impresses savages so +forcibly as the _power_ to punish and reward. I am not sure that this +theory is applicable to savages exclusively. Arrived at Wat Shely at 9 +P.M. 23d Dec.--Poor Johann very ill. Bought two camels, and shipped them +all right: the market at this miserable village is as poor as that at +Getene. The river is about a mile and a half wide, fringed with mimosas; +country dead flat; soil very sandy; much cultivation near the village, +but the dhurra of poor quality. Saw many hippopotami in the river. I +much regret that I allowed Johann to accompany me from Khartoum; I feel +convinced he can never rally from his present condition. + +24th Dec.--Sailed yesterday at 4.5 P.M., course south. This morning we +are off the Bagara country on the west bank. Dead flats of mimosas, many +of the trees growing in the water; the river generally shallow, and many +snags or dead stumps of trees. I have been fortunate with my men, only +one being drunk on leaving Wat Shely; him we carried forcibly on board. +Passed the island of Hassaniah at 2.20 P.M.; the usual flats covered +with mimosas. The high-water mark upon the stems of these trees is three +feet above the present level of the river; thus an immense extent of +country must be flooded during the wet season, as there are no banks to +the river. The water will retire in about two months, when the +neighbourhood of the river will be thronged with natives and their +flocks. All the natives of these parts are Arabs; the Bagara tribe on +the west bank. At Wat Shely some of the latter came on board to offer +their services as slave-hunters, this open offer confirming the general +custom of all vessels trading upon the White Nile. + +25th Dec.--The Tokroori boy, Saat, is very amiable in calling all the +servants daily to eat together the residue from our table; but he being +so far civilized, is armed with a huge spoon, and having a mouth like a +crocodile, he obtains a fearful advantage over the rest of the party, +who eat the soup by dipping kisras (pancakes) into it with their +fingers. Meanwhile Saat sits among his invited guests, and works away +with his spoon like a sageer (water-wheel), and gets an unwarrantable +start, the soup disappearing like water in the desert. A dead calm the +greater portion of the day; the river fringed with mimosa forest. These +trees are the Soont (Acacia Arabica), which produce an excellent tannin: +the fruit, "garra," is used for that purpose, and produces a rich brown +dye: all my clothes and the uniforms of my men I dyed at Khartoum with +this "garra." The trees are about eighteen inches in diameter and +thirty-five feet high; being in full foliage, their appearance from a +distance is good, but on a closer approach the forest proves to be a +desolate swamp, completely overflowed; a mass of fallen dead trees +protruding from the stagnant waters, a solitary crane perched here and +there upon the rotten boughs; floating water-plants massed together, and +forming green swimming islands, hitched generally among the sunken +trunks and branches; sometimes slowly descending with the sluggish +stream, bearing, spectre-like, storks thus voyaging on nature's rafts +from lands unknown. It is a fever-stricken wilderness--the current not +exceeding a quarter of a mile per hour--the water coloured like an +English horse-pond; a heaven for mosquitoes and a damp hell for man. +Fortunately, this being the cold season, the winged plagues are absent. +The country beyond the inundated mimosa woods is of the usual sandy +character, with thorny Kittur bush. Saw a few antelopes. Stopped at a +horrible swamp to collect firewood. Anchored at night in a dead calm, +well out in the river to escape malaria from the swamped forest. This is +a precaution that the men would neglect, and my expedition might suffer +in consequence. Christmas Day! + +26th Dec.--Good breeze at about 3 A.M.; made sail. I have never seen a +fog in this part of Africa; although the neighbourhood of the river is +swampy, the air is clear both in the morning and evening. Floating +islands of water-plants are now very numerous. There is a plant +something like a small cabbage (Pistia Stratiotes, L.), which floats +alone until it meets a comrade; these unite, and recruiting as they +float onward, they eventually form masses of many thousands, entangling +with other species of water-plants and floating wood, until they at +length form floating islands. Saw many hippopotami; the small hill in +the Dinka country seen from the masthead at 9.15 A.M.; breeze light, but +steady; the banks of the river, high grass and mimosas, but not forest +as formerly. Water lilies in full bloom, white, but larger than the +European variety. In the evening the crew and soldiers singing and +drumming. + +27th Dec.--Blowing hard all night. Passed the Dinka hill at 3.30 A.M. +Obliged to take in sail, as it buried the head of the vessel and we +shipped much water. Staggering along under bare poles at about five +miles an hour. The true banks of the river are about five hundred yards +distant from the actual stream, this space being a mass of floating +water-plants, decayed vegetable matter, and a high reedy grass much +resembling sugarcanes; the latter excellent food for my animals. Many +very interesting water-plants and large quantities of Ambatch wood +(Anemone mirabilis)--this wood, of less specific gravity than cork, is +generally used for rafts; at this season it is in full bloom, its bright +yellow blossoms enlivening the dismal swamps. Secured very fine +specimens of a variety of helix from the floating islands. In this spot +the river is from 1500 yards to a mile wide; the country, flat and +uninteresting, being the usual scattered thorn bushes and arid plains, +the only actual timber being confined to the borders of the river. +Course, always south with few turns. My sponging-bath makes a good +pinnace for going ashore from the vessel. At 4.20 P.M. one of the +noggurs carried away her yard--the same boat that met with the accident +at our departure; hove to, and closed with the bank for repairs. Here is +an affair of delay; worked with my own hands until 9 p.m.; spliced the +yard, bound it with rhinoceros thongs, and secured the whole splice with +raw bull's hide. Posted sentries--two on each boat, and two on shore. + +28th Dec.--At work at break of day. Completed the repair of yard, which +is disgracefully faulty. Re-rigged the mast. Poor Johann will die, I +much fear. His constitution appears to be quite broken up; he has become +deaf, and there is every symptom of decay. I have done all I can for +him, but his voyage in this life is nearly over. Ship in order, and all +sailed together at 2:15 p.m. Strong north wind. Two vessels from +Khartoum passed us while repairing damages. I rearranged the donkeys, +dividing them into stalls containing three each, as they were such +donkeys that they crowded each other unnecessarily. Caught a curious +fish (Tetrodon physa of Geof.), that distends itself with air like a +bladder; colour black, and yellow stripes; lungs; apertures under the +fins, which open and shut by their movement, their motion being a +semi-revolution. This fish is a close link between fish and turtle; the +head is precisely that of the latter, having no teeth, but cutting jaws +of hard bone of immense power. Many minutes after the head had been +severed from the body, the jaws nipped with fury anything that was +inserted in the mouth, ripping through thin twigs and thick straw like a +pair of shears. The skin of the belly is white, and is armed with +prickles. The skin is wonderfully tough. I accordingly cut it into a +long thong, and bound up the stock of a rifle that had been split from +the recoil of heavy charges of powder. The flesh was strong of musk, and +uneatable. There is nothing so good as fish skin--or that of the +iguana, or of the crocodile--for lashing broken gun-stocks. Isinglass, +when taken fresh from the fish and bound round a broken stock like a +plaster, will become as strong as metal when dry. Country as usual-- +flat and thorny bush. A heavy swell creates a curious effect in the +undulations of the green rafts upon the water. Dinka country on east +bank; Shillook on the west; course south; all Arab tribes are left +behind, and we are now thoroughly among the negroes. + +29th Dec.--At midnight the river made a bend westward, which continued +for about fifteen miles. The wind being adverse, at 5 A.M. we found +ourselves fast in the grass and floating vegetation on the lee side. Two +hours' hard work at two ropes, alternately, fastened to the high grass +ahead of the boat and hauled upon from the deck, warped us round the +bend of the river, which turning due south, we again ran before a +favourable gale for two hours; all the boats well together. The east +bank of the river is not discernible--a vast expanse of high reeds +stretching as far as the eye can reach; course P.M. W.S.W. At 4 P.M. the +"Clumsy," as I have named one of our noggurs, suddenly carried away her +mast close by the board, the huge yard and rigging falling overboard +with the wreck, severely hurting two men and breaking one of their guns. +Hove to by an island on the Shillook side, towed the wreck ashore, and +assembled all the boats. Fortunately there is timber at hand; thus I cut +down a tree for a mast and got all ready for commencing repairs +tomorrow. Poor Johann is, as I had feared, dying; he bleeds from the +lungs, and is in the last stage of exhaustion. Posted six sentries. + +30th Dec.--Johann is in a flying state, but sensible; all his hopes, +poor fellow, of saving money in my service and returning to Bavaria are +past. I sat by his bed for some hours; there was not a ray of hope; he +could speak with difficulty, and the flies walked across his glazed +eyeballs without his knowledge. Gently bathing his face and hands, I +asked him if I could deliver any message to his relatives. He faintly +uttered, "I am prepared to die; I have neither parents nor relations; +but there is one--she--" he faltered. He could not finish his sentence, +but his dying thoughts were with one he loved; far, far away from this +wild and miserable land, his spirit was transported to his native +village, and to the object that made life dear to him. Did not a shudder +pass over her, a chill warning at that sad moment when all was passing +away? I pressed his cold hand, and asked her name. Gathering his +remaining strength he murmured, "Krombach" [Krombach was merely the name +of his native village in Bavaria.] . . . "Es bleibt nur zu sterben." +"Ich bin sehr dankbar." These were the last words he spoke, "I am very +grateful." I gazed sorrowfully at his attenuated figure, and at the now +powerless hand that had laid low many an elephant and lion, in its day +of strength; and the cold sweat of death lay thick upon his forehead. +Although the pulse was not yet still, Johann was gone. + +31st Dec.--Johann died. I made a huge cross with my own hands from the +trunk of a tamarind tree, and by moonlight we laid him in his grave in +this lonely spot. + + "No useless coffin inclosed his breast, + Nor in sheet nor in shroud we wound him; + But he lay like a pilgrim taking his rest, + With his mantle drawn around him." + +This is a mournful commencement of the voyage. Poor fellow, I did all I +could for him although that was but little; and hands far more tender +than mine ministered to his last necessities. This sad event closes the +year 1862. Made sail at 8.30 p.m., the repairs of ship being completed. + +1863, Jan. 1st, 2 o'clock a.m.--Melancholy thoughts preventing sleep, +I have watched the arrival of the new year. Thank God for His blessings +during the past, and may He guide us through the untrodden path before +us! We arrived at the village of Mahomed Her in the Shillook country. +This man is a native of Dongola, who, having become a White Nile +adventurer, established himself among the Shillook tribe with a band of +ruffians, and is the arch-slaver of the Nile. The country, as usual, a +dead flat: many Shillook villages on west bank all deserted, owing to +Mahomed Her's plundering. This fellow now assumes a right of territory, +and offers to pay tribute to the Egyptian Government, thus throwing a +sop to Cerberus to prevent intervention. Course S.W. The river in clear +water about seven hundred yards wide, but sedge on the east bank for a +couple of miles in width. + +2d Jan.--The "Clumsy" lagging, come to grief again, having once more +sprung her rotten yard. Fine breeze, but obliged to wait upon this +wretched boat--the usual flat uninteresting marshes: Shillook villages +in great numbers on the terra firma to the west. Verily it is a pleasant +voyage; disgusting naked savages, everlasting marshes teeming with +mosquitoes, and the entire country devoid of anything of either common +interest or beauty. Course west the whole day; saw giraffes and one +ostrich on the east bank. On the west bank there is a regular line of +villages throughout the day's voyage within half a mile of each other; +the country very thickly populated. The huts are of mud, thatched, +having a very small entrance--they resemble button mushrooms. The +Shillooks are wealthy, immense herds of cattle swarm throughout their +country. The natives navigate the river in two kinds of canoes-one of +which is a curious combination of raft and canoe formed of the Ambatch +wood, which is so light, that the whole affair is portable. The Ambatch +(Anemone mirabilis) is seldom larger than a man's waist, and as it +tapers naturally to a point, the canoe rafts are quickly formed by +lashing the branches parallel to each other, and tying the narrow ends +together. + +3d Jan.--The "Clumsy's" yard having been lashed with rhinoceros' hide, +fortunately holds together, although sprung. Stopped this morning on the +east bank, and gathered a supply of wood. On the west bank Shillook +villages as yesterday during the day's voyage, all within half a mile of +each other; one village situated among a thick grove of the dolape palms +close to the river. The natives, afraid of our boats, decamped, likewise +the fishermen, who were harpooning fish from small fishing stations +among the reeds. + +The country, as usual, dead flat, and very marshy on the east bank, upon +which side I see no signs of habitations. Course this morning south. +Arrived at the river Sobat junction at 12.40 P.M., and anchored about +half a mile within that river at a spot where the Turks had formerly +constructed a camp. Not a tree to be seen; but dead flats of prairie and +marsh as far as the eye can reach. The Sobat is not more than a hundred +and twenty yards in breadth. + +I measured the stream by a floating gourd, which travelled 130 yards in +112 seconds, equal to about two miles and a half an hour. The quality of +the water is very superior to that of the White Nile--this would suggest +that it is of mountain origin. Upward course of Sobat south, 25 degrees +east. Upward course of the White Nile west, 2 degrees north from the +Sobat junction. + +4th Jan.--By observation of sun's meridian altitude, I make the latitude +of the Sobat junction 9 degrees 21 minutes 14 seconds. Busy fishing the +yard of the "Clumsy," and mending sails. The camels and donkeys all +well--plenty of fine grass--made a good stock of hay. My reis and +boatmen tell me that the Sobat, within a few days' sail of the junction, +divides into seven branches, all shallow and with a rapid current. The +banks are flat, and the river is now bank-full. Although the water is +perfectly clear, and there is no appearance of flood, yet masses of +weeds, as though torn from their beds by torrents, are constantly +floating down the stream. One of my men has been up the river to the +farthest navigable point; he declares that it is fed by many mountain +torrents, and that it runs out very rapidly at the cessation of the +rains. I sounded the river in many places, the depth varying very +slightly, from twenty-seven to twenty-eight feet. At 5 P.M. set sail +with a light breeze, and glided along the dead water of the White Nile. +Full moon--the water like a mirror; the country one vast and apparently +interminable marsh--the river about a mile wide, and more or less +covered with floating plants. The night still as death; dogs barking in +the distant villages, and herds of hippopotami snorting in all +directions, being disturbed by the boats. Course west. + +5th Jan.--Fine breeze, as much as we can carry; boats running at eight +or nine miles an hour--no stream perceptible; vast marshes; the clear +water of the river not more than 150 yards wide, forming a channel +through the great extent of water grass resembling high sugarcanes, +which conceal the true extent of the river. About six miles west from +the Sobat junction on the north side of the river, is a kind of +backwater, extending north like a lake for a distance of several days' +boat journey: this is eventually lost in regions of high grass and +marshes; in the wet season this forms a large lake. A hill bearing north +20 degrees west so distant as to be hardly discernible. + +The Bahr Giraffe is a small river entering the Nile on the south bank +between the Sobat and Bahr el Gazal--my reis (Diabb) tells me it is +merely a branch from the White Nile from the Aliab country, and not an +independent river. Course west, 10 degrees north, the current about one +mile per hour. Marshes and ambatch, far as the eye can reach. + +At 6.40 P.M. reached the Bahr el Gazal; the junction has the appearance +of a lake about three miles in length, by one in width, varying +according to seasons. Although bank-full, there is no stream whatever +from the Bahr el Gazal, and it has the appearance of a backwater formed +by the Nile. The water being clear and perfectly dead, a stranger would +imagine it to be an overflow of the Nile, were the existence of the Bahr +el Gazal unknown. The Bahr el Gazal extends due west from this point for +a great distance, the entire river being a system of marshes, stagnant +water overgrown by rushes, and ambatch wood, through which a channel has +to be cleared to permit the passage of a boat. Little or no water can +descend to the Nile from this river, otherwise there would be some +trifling current at the embouchure. The Nile has a stream of about a +mile and a half per hour, as it sweeps suddenly round the angle, +changing its downward course from north to east. The breadth in this +spot does not exceed 130 yards; but it is impossible to determine the +actual width of the river, as its extent is concealed by reeds with +which the country is entirely covered to the horizon. + +The White Nile having an upward course of west 10 degrees north, +variation of compass 10 degrees west, from the Sobat to the Bahr el +Gazal junction, now turns abruptly to south 10 degrees east. From native +accounts there is a great extent of lake country at this point. The +general appearance of the country denotes a vast flat, with slight +depressions; these form extensive lakes during the wet season, and +sodden marshes during the dry weather; thus contradictory accounts of +the country may be given by travellers according to the seasons at which +they examined it. There is nothing to denote large permanent lakes; vast +masses of water plants and vegetation, requiring both a wet and dry +season, exist throughout; but there are no great tracts of deep water. +The lake at the Bahr el Gazal entrance is from seven to nine feet deep, +by soundings in various places. Anchored the little squadron, as I wait +here for observations. Had the "Clumsy's" yard lowered and examined. Cut +a supply of grass for the animals. + +Jan. 6th.--Overhauled the stores. My stock of liquor will last to +Gondokoro; after that spot "vive la misere." It is curious in African +travel to mark the degrees of luxury and misery; how, one by one, the +wine, spirits bread, sugar, tea, etc., are dropped like the feathers of +a moulting bird, and nevertheless we go ahead contented. My men busy +cutting grass, washing, fishing, etc. + +Latitude, by meridian altitude of sun, 9 degrees 29 minutes. Difference +of time by observation between this point and the Sobat junction, 4 min. +26 secs., 1 degree 6 minutes 30 seconds distance. Caught some perch, but +without the red fin of the European species; also some boulti with the +net. The latter is a variety of perch growing to about four pounds' +weight, and is excellent eating. + +Sailed at 3 P.M. Masses of the beautiful but gloomy Papyrus rush, +growing in dense thickets about eighteen feet above the water. I +measured the diameter of one head, or crown, four feet one inch. _ Jan. +7th.--Started at 6 A.M.; course E. 10 degrees S.; wind dead against us; +the "Clumsy" not in sight. Obliged to haul along by fastening long ropes +to the grass about a hundred yards ahead. This is frightful work; the +men must swim that distance to secure the rope, and those on board +hauling it in gradually, pull the vessel against the stream. Nothing can +exceed the labor and tediousness of this operation. From constant work +in the water many of my men are suffering from fever. The temperature is +much higher than when we left Khartoum; the country, as usual, one vast +marsh. At night the hoarse music of hippopotami snorting and playing +among the high-flooded reeds, and the singing of countless myriads of +mosquitoes--the nightingales of the White Nile. My black fellow, +Richarn, whom I had appointed corporal, will soon be reduced to the +ranks; the animal is spoiled by sheer drink. Having been drunk every day +in Khartoum, and now being separated from his liquor, he is plunged into +a black melancholy. He sits upon the luggage like a sick rook, doing +minstrelsy, playing the rababa (guitar), and smoking the whole day, +unless asleep, which is half that time: he is sighing after the merissa +(beer) pots of Egypt. This man is an illustration of missionary success. +He was brought up from boyhood at the Austrian mission, and he is a +genuine specimen of the average results. He told me a few days ago that +"he is no longer a Christian." There are two varieties of convolvolus +growing here; also a peculiar gourd, which, when dry and divested of its +shell, exposes a vegetable sponge, formed of a dense but fine network of +fibers; the seeds are contained in the center of this fiber. The bright +yellow flowers of the ambatch, and of a tree resembling a laburnum, are +in great profusion. The men completely done: I served them out a measure +of grog. The "Clumsy" not in sight. + +Jan. 8th.--Waited all night for the "Clumsy." She appeared at 8 A.M., +when the reis and several men received the whip for laziness. All three +vessels now rounded a sharp turn in the river, and the wind being then +favorable, we were soon under sail. The clear water of the river from +the Bahr el Gazal to this point, does not exceed a hundred and twenty +yards in width. The stream runs at one and three-quarter miles per hour, +bringing with it a quantity of floating vegetation. The fact of a strong +current both above and below the Bahr el Gazal junction, while the lake +at that point is dead water, proves that I was right in my surmise, that +no water flows from the Bahr el Gazal into the Nile during this season, +and that the lake and the extensive marshes at that locality are caused +as much by the surplus water of the White Nile flowing into a +depression, as they are by the Bahr el Gazal, the water of the latter +river being absorbed by the immense marshes. + +Yesterday we anchored at a dry spot, on which grew many mimosas of the +red bark variety; the ground was a dead flat, and the river was up to +the roots of the trees near the margin; thus the river is quite full at +this season, but not flooded. There was no watermark upon the stems of +the trees; thus I have little doubt that the actual rise of the +water-level during the rainy season is very trifling, as the water +extends over a prodigious extent of surface, the river having no banks. +The entire country is merely a vast marsh, with a river flowing through +the midst. At this season last year I was on the Settite. That great +river and the Atbara were then excessively low. + +The Blue Nile was also low at the same time. On the contrary, the White +Nile and the Sobat, although not at their highest, are bank-full, while +the former two are failing; this proves that the White Nile and the +Sobat rise far south, among mountains subject to a rainfall at different +seasons, extending over a greater portion of the year than the rainy +season of Abyssinia and the neighbouring Galla country. + +It is not surprising that the ancients gave up the exploration of the +Nile when they came to the countless windings and difficulties of the +marshes; the river is like an entangled skein of thread. Wind light; +course S. 20 degrees W. The strong north wind that took us from Khartoum +has long since become a mere breath. It never blows in this latitude +regularly from the north. The wind commences at between 8 and 9 A.M., +and sinks at sunset; thus the voyage through these frightful marshes and +windings is tedious and melancholy beyond description. Great numbers of +hippopotami this evening, greeting the boats with their loud snorting +bellow, which vibrates through the vessels. + +Jan. 9th.--Two natives fishing; left their canoe and ran on the approach +of our boats. My men wished to steal it, which of course I prevented; it +was a simple dome palm hollowed. In the canoe was a harpoon, very neatly +made, with only one barb. Both sides of the river from the Bahr el Gazal +belong to the Nuehr tribe. Course S.E.; wind very light; windings of +river endless; continual hauling. At about half an hour before sunset, +as the men were hauling the boat along by dragging at the high reeds +from the deck, a man at the mast-head reported a buffalo standing on a +dry piece of ground near the river; being in want of meat, the men +begged me to shoot him. The buffalo was so concealed by the high grass, +that he could not be seen from the deck; I therefore stood upon an +angarep (bedstead) on the poop, and from this I could just discern his +head and shoulders in the high grass, about a hundred and twenty yards +off. I fired with No. 1 Reilly rifle, and he dropped apparently dead to +the shot. The men being hungry, were mad with delight, and regardless of +all but meat, they dashed into the water, and were shortly at him; one +man holding him by the tail, another dancing upon him and brandishing +his knife, and all shouting a yell of exultation. Presently up jumped +the insulted buffalo, and charging through the men, he disappeared in +the high grass, falling, as the men declared, in the deep morass. It was +dusk, and the men, being rather ashamed of their folly in dancing +instead of hamstringing the animal and securing their beef, slunk back +to their vessels. + +Jan. 10th.--Early in the morning the buffalo was heard groaning in the +marsh, not far from the spot where he was supposed to have fallen. About +forty men took their guns and knives, intent upon beefsteaks, and waded +knee-deep in mud and water through the high grass of the morass in +search. About one hour passed in this way, and, seeing the reckless +manner in which the men were wandering about, I went down below to beat +the drum to call them back, which the vakeel had been vainly attempting. +Just at this moment I heard a distant yelling, and shot fired after +shot, about twenty times, in quick succession. I saw with the telescope +a crowd of men about three hundred yards distant, standing on a white +ant-hill raised above the green sea of high reeds, from which elevated +point they were keeping up a dropping fire at some object +indistinguishable in the high grass. The death-howl was soon raised, and +the men rushing down from their secure position, shortly appeared, +carrying with them my best choush, Sali Achmet, dead. He had come +suddenly upon the buffalo, who, although disabled, had caught him in the +deep mud and killed him. His gallant comrades bolted, although he called +to them for assistance, and they had kept up a distant fire from the +lofty ant-hill, instead of rushing to his rescue. The buffalo lay dead; +and a grave was immediately dug for the unfortunate Sali. My journey +begins badly with the death of my good man Johann and my best +choush--added to the constant mishaps of the "Clumsy." Fortunately I did +not start from Khartoum on a Friday, or the unlucky day would have borne +the onus of all the misfortunes. + +The graves of the Arabs are an improvement upon those of Europeans. What +poor person who cannot afford a vault, has not felt a pang as the clod +fell upon the coffin of his relative? The Arabs avoid this. Although +there is no coffin, the rude earth does not rest upon the body. The hole +being dug similar in shape to a European grave, an extra trench is +formed at the bottom of the grave about a foot wide. The body is laid +upon its side within this trench, and covered by bricks made of clay +which are laid across;-thus the body is contained within a narrow vault. +Mud is then smeared over the hastily made bricks and nothing is visible; +the tomb being made level with the bottom of the large grave. This is +filled up with earth, which, resting on the brick covering of the trench +cannot press upon the body. In such a grave my best man was laid--the +Slave women raising their horrible howling and my men crying loudly, as +well explained in the words of Scripture, "and he lifted up his voice +and wept." I was glad to see so much external feeling for their comrade, +but the grave being filled, their grief, like all loud sorrow, passed +quickly away and relapsed into thoughts of buffalo meat; they were soon +busily engaged in cutting up the flesh. There are two varieties of +buffaloes in this part of Africa--the Bos Caffer, with convex horns, +and that with flat horns; this was the latter species. A horn had +entered the man's thigh, tearing the whole of the muscles from the bone; +there was also a wound from the centre of the throat to the ear, thus +completely torn open, severing the jugular vein. One rib was broken, the +breast-bone. As usual with buffaloes, he had not rested content until he +had pounded the breath out of the body, which was found embedded and +literally stamped tight into the mud, with only a portion of the head +above the marsh. Sali had not even cocked his gun, the hammer being down +on the nipples when found. I will not allow these men to come to grief +in this way; they are a reckless set of thoughtless cowards, full of +noise and bluster, fond of firing off their guns like children, and +wasting ammunition uselessly, and in time of danger they can never be +relied upon; they deserted their comrade when in need, and cried aloud +like infants at his death; they shall not again be allowed to move from +the boats. + +In the evening I listened to the men conversing over the whole affair, +when I learnt the entire truth. It appears that Richarn and two other +men were with the unfortunate Sali when the brute charged him, and the +cowards all bolted without firing a shot in defense. There was a large +white ant-hill about fifty yards distant, to which they retreated; from +the top of this fort they repeatedly saw the man thrown into the air, +and heard him calling for assistance. Instead of hastening in a body to +his aid, they called to him to "keep quiet and the buffalo would leave +him." This is a sample of the courage of these Khartoumers. The buffalo +was so disabled by my shot of yesterday that he was incapable of leaving +the spot, as, with a broken shoulder, he could not get through the deep +mud. My Reilly No. 10 bullet was found under the skin of the right +shoulder, having passed in at the left shoulder rather above the lungs. +The windings of this monotonous river are extraordinary, and during dead +calms in these vast marshes the feeling of melancholy produced is beyond +description. The White Nile is a veritable "Styx." When the wind does +happen to blow hard, the navigation is most difficult, owing to the +constant windings; the sailors being utterly ignorant, and the rig of +the vessel being the usual huge "leg of mutton" sail, there is an amount +of screaming and confusion at every attempt to tack which generally ends +in our being driven on the lee marsh; this is preferable to a capsize, +which is sometimes anything but distant. This morning is one of those +days of blowing hard, with the accompaniments of screaming and shouting. +Course S.E. Waited half a day for the "Clumsy," which hove in sight just +before dark; the detentions caused by this vessel are becoming serious, +a quick voyage being indispensable for the animals. The camels are +already suffering from confinement, and I have their legs well swathed +in wet bandages. + +This marsh land varies in width. In some portions of the river it +appears to extend for about two miles on either side; in other parts +farther than the eye can reach. In all cases the main country is a dead +flat; now blazing and smoking beyond the limit of marshes, as the +natives have fired the dry grass in all directions. Reeds, similar in +appearance to bamboos but distinct from them, big water-grass, like +sugarcanes, excellent fodder for the cattle, and the ever-present +ambatch, cover the morasses. Innumerable mosquitoes. + +Jan. 12th--Fine breeze in the morning, but obliged to wait for the +"Clumsy", which arrived at 10 A.M. How absurd are some descriptions of +the White Nile, which state that there is no current! At some parts, +like that from just above the Sobat junction to Khartoum, there is but +little, but since we have left the Bahr el Gazal the stream runs from +one and three-quarters to two and a half miles per hour, varying in +localities. Here it is not more than a hundred yards wide in clear +water. At 11.20 A.M. got under weigh with a rattling breeze, but +scarcely had we been half an hour under sail when crack went the great +yard of the "Clumsy" once more. I had her taken in tow. It is of no use +repairing the yard again, and, were it not for the donkeys, I would +abandon her. Koorshid Aga's boats were passing us in full sail when his +diahbiah suddenly carried away her rudder, and went head first into the +morass. I serve out grog to the men when the drum beats at sunset, if +all the boats are together. + +Jan. 13th.--Stopped near a village on the right bank in company with +Koorshid Aga's two diahbiahs. The natives came down to the boats--they +are something superlative in the way of savages; the men as naked as +they came into the world; their bodies rubbed with ashes, and their hair +stained red by a plaster of ashes and cow's urine. These fellows are the +most unearthly-looking devils I ever saw--there is no other expression +for them. The unmarried women are also entirely naked; the married have +a fringe made of grass around their loins. The men wear heavy coils of +beads about their necks, two heavy bracelets of ivory on the upper +portion of the arms, copper rings upon the wrists, and a horrible kind +of bracelet of massive iron armed with spikes about an inch in length, +like leopard's claws, which they use for a similar purpose. The chief of +the Nuehr village, Joctian, with his wife and daughter, paid me a visit, +and asked for all they saw in the shape of beads and bracelets, but +declined a knife as useless. They went away delighted with their +presents. The women perforate the upper lip, and wear an ornament about +four inches long of beads upon an iron wire; this projects like the horn +of a rhinoceros; they are very ugly. The men are tall and powerful, +armed with lances. They carry pipes that contain nearly a quarter of a +pound of tobacco, in which they smoke simple charcoal should the loved +tobacco fail. The carbonic acid gas of the charcoal produces a slight +feeling of intoxication, which is the effect desired. Koorshid Aga +returned them a girl from Khartoum who had been captured by a +slave-hunter; this delighted the people, and they immediately brought an +ox as an offering. The "Clumsy's" yard broke in two pieces, thus I was +obliged to seek a dry spot for the necessary repairs. I left the village +Nuehr Eliab, and in the evening lowered the "Clumsy's" yard; taking her +in tow, we are, this moment, 8.30 P.M., slowly sailing through clouds of +mosquitoes looking out for a landing-place in this world of marshes. I +took the chief of the Nuehrs' portrait, as he sat in my cabin on the +divan; of course he was delighted. He exhibited his wife's arms and back +covered with jagged scars, in reply to my question as to the use of the +spiked iron bracelet. Charming people are these poor blacks! as they are +termed by English sympathisers; he was quite proud of having clawed his +wife like a wild beast. In sober earnest, my monkey "Wallady" looks like +a civilized being compared to the Nuehr savages. The chiefs forehead was +tattooed in horizontal lines that had the appearance of wrinkles. The +hair is worn drawn back from the face. Both men and women wear a bag +slung from the neck, apparently to contain any presents they may +receive, everything being immediately pocketed. Course S.S.E. + +Jan. 14th.-All day occupied in repairing the yard; the buffalo hide of +the animal that killed Sali Achmet being most serviceable in lashing. +Sailed in the evening in company with a boat belonging to the Austrian +mission. River about 120 yards of clear water; current about two miles +per hour. Found quantities of natron on the marshy ground bordering the +river. + +Had a turkey for dinner, a "cadeau" from Koorshid Aga, and, as a great +wonder, the kisras (a sort of brown pancake in lieu of bread) were free +from sand. I must have swallowed a good-sized millstone since I have +been in Africa, in the shape of grit rubbed from the moorhaka, or +grinding-stone. The moorhaka, when new, is a large flat stone, weighing +about forty pounds; upon this the corn is ground by being rubbed with a +cylindrical stone with both hands. After a few months' use half of the +original grinding-stone disappears, the grit being mixed with the flour; +thus the grinding-stone is actually eaten. No wonder that hearts become +stony in this country! + +Jan. 15th.-We were towing through high reeds this morning, the men +invisible, and the rope mowing over the high tops of the grass, when the +noise disturbed a hippopotamus from his slumber, and he was immediately +perceived close to the boat. He was about half grown, and in an instant +about twenty men jumped into the water in search of him, thinking him a +mere baby; but as he suddenly appeared, and was about three times as +large as they had expected, they were not very eager to close. However, +the reis Diabb pluckily led the way and seized him by the hind leg, when +the crowd of men rushed in, and we had a grand tussle. Ropes were thrown +from the vessel, and nooses were quickly slipped over his head, but he +had the best of the struggle and was dragging the people into the open +river; I was therefore obliged to end the sport by putting a ball +through his head. He was scored all over by the tusks of some other +hippopotamus that had been bullying him. The men declared that his +father had thus misused him; others were of opinion that it was his +mother; and the argument ran high, and became hot. + +These Arabs have an extraordinary taste for arguments upon the most +trifling points. I have frequently known my men argue throughout the +greater part of the night, and recommence the same argument on the +following morning. These debates generally end in a fight; and in the +present instance the excitement of the hunt only added to the heat of +the argument. They at length agreed to refer it to me, and both parties +approached, vociferously advancing their theories; one half persisting +that the young hippo had been bullied by his father, and the others +adhering to the mother as the cause. I, being referee, suggested that +"perhaps it was his UNCLE." Wah Illahi sahe! (By Allah it is true!) Both +parties were satisfied with the suggestion; dropping their theory they +became practical, and fell to with knives and axes to cut up the cause +of the argument. He was as fat as butter, and was a perfect godsend to +the people, who divided him with great excitement and good humour. + +We are now a fleet of seven boats, those of several traders having +joined us. The "Clumsy's" yard looks much better than formerly. I cut +off about ten feet from the end, as it was topheavy. The yard of this +class of vessel should look like an immense fishing-rod, and should be +proportionately elastic, as it tapers gradually to a point. Course S.E. +I hear that the Shillook tribe have attacked Chenooda's people, and that +his boat was capsized, and some lives lost in the hasty retreat. It +serves these slave-hunters right, and I rejoice at their defeat. Exodus +xx. 16: "And he that stealeth a man, and selleth him, or if he be found +in his hand, he shall surely be put to death." + +Jan. 16th.--A new dish! There is no longer mock-turtle soup--REAL +turtle is MOCK HIPPOPOTAMUS. I tried boiling the fat, flesh, and skin +together, the result being that the skin assumes the appearance of the +green fat of the turtle, but is far superior. A piece of the head thus +boiled, and then soused in vinegar, with chopped onions, cayenne pepper, +and salt, throws brawn completely in the shade. My men having revelled +in a cauldron of hippopotamus soup, I serve out grog at sunset, all +ships being together. Great contentment, all appetites being satisfied. +The labour of towing through swamps, tugging by the long grass, and +poling against a strong current, is dreadful, and there appears to be no +end to this horrible country. "On dit," that during the dry season there +is plenty of game near the river, but at present boundless marshes +devoid of life, except in the shape of mosquitoes, and a very few +water-fowl, are the only charms of the White Nile. The other day I +caught one of the men stealing the salt; Richarn having been aware of +daily thefts of this treasure, and having failed to report them, the +thief received twenty with the coorbatch, and Richarn is reduced to the +ranks, as I anticipated. No possibility of taking observations, as there +is no landing-place. Jan. 17th.-As usual, marshes, mosquitoes, windings, +dead flats, and light winds; the mosquitoes in the cabin give no rest +even during the day. Stream about two miles per hour. Course S.E.; the +river averaging about one hundred and ten yards in width of clear water. +Jan. 18th.-Country as usual, but the wind brisker. In company with +Koorshid Aga's boats. I have bound the stock of Oswell's old gun with +rhinoceros hide. All guns made for sport in wild countries and rough +riding, should have steel instead of iron from the breech-socket, +extending far back to within six inches of the shoulder-plate; the +trigger-guard should likewise be steel, and should be carried back to an +equal distance with the above rib; the steel should be of extra +thickness, and screwed through to the upper piece; thus the two, being +connected by screws above and below, no fall could break the stock. + +Jan,. 19th.-At 8 A.M. we emerged from the apparently endless regions of +marsh grass, and saw on the right bank large herds of cattle, tended by +naked natives, in a country abounding with high grass and mimosa wood. +At 9.15 A.M. arrived at the Zareeba, or station of Binder, an Austrian +subject, and White Nile trader; here we found five noggurs belonging to +him and his partner. Binder's vakeel insisted upon giving a bullock to +my people. This bullock I resisted for some time, until I saw that the +man was affronted. It is impossible to procure from the natives any +cattle by purchase. The country is now a swamp, but it will be passable +during the dry season. Took equal altitudes of sun producing latitude 7 +degrees 5' 46". The misery of these unfortunate blacks is beyond +description; they will not kill their cattle, neither do they taste meat +unless an animal dies of sickness; they will not work, thus they +frequently starve, existing only upon rats, lizards, snakes, and upon +such fish as they can spear. The spearing of fish is a mere hazard, as +they cast the harpoon at random among the reeds; thus, out of three or +four hundred casts, they may, by good luck, strike a fish. The harpoon +is neatly made, and is attached to a pliable reed about twenty feet +long, secured by a long line. Occasionally they strike a monster, as +there are varieties of fish which attain a weight of two hundred pounds. +In the event of harpooning such a fish, a long and exciting chase is the +result, as he carries away the harpoon, and runs out the entire length +of line; they then swim after him, holding their end of the line, and +playing him until exhausted. The chief of this tribe (the Kytch) wore a +leopard-skin across his shoulders, and a skull-cap of white beads, with +a crest of white ostrich-feathers; but the mantle was merely slung over +his shoulders, and all other parts of his person were naked. His +daughter was the best-looking girl that I have seen among the blacks; +she was about sixteen. Her clothing consisted of a little piece of +dressed hide about a foot wide slung across her shoulders, all other +parts being exposed. All the girls of this country wear merely a circlet +of little iron jingling ornaments round their waists. They came in +numbers, bringing small bundles of wood to exchange for a few handfuls +of corn. Most of the men are tall, but wretchedly thin; the children are +mere skeletons, and the entire tribe appears thoroughly starved. The +language is that of the Dinka. The chief carried a curious tobacco-box, +an iron spike about two feet long, with a hollow socket, bound with +iguana-skin; this served for either tobacco-box, club, or dagger. +Throughout the whole of this marshy country it is curious to observe the +number of white ant-hills standing above the water in the marshes: these +Babel towers save their inmates from the deluge; working during the dry +season, the white ants carry their hills to so great a height (about ten +feet), that they can live securely in the upper stories during the +floods. The whole day we are beset by crowds of starving people, +bringing small gourd-shells to receive the expected corn. The people of +this tribe are mere apes, trusting entirely to the productions of nature +for their subsistence; they will spend hours in digging out field-mice +from their burrows, as we should for rabbits. They are the most pitiable +set of savages that can be imagined; so emaciated, that they have no +visible posteriors; they look as though they had been planed off, and +their long thin legs and arms give them a peculiar gnat-like appearance. +At night they crouch close to the fires, lying in the smoke to escape +the clouds of mosquitoes. At this season the country is a vast swamp, +the only dry spots being the white ant-hills; in such places the natives +herd like wild animals, simply rubbing themselves with wood-ashes to +keep out the cold. + +Jan. 20th.--The river from this spot turns sharp to the east, but an +arm equally broad comes from S. 20 degrees E. to this point. There is no +stream from this arm. The main stream runs round the angle with a rapid +current of about two and a half miles per hour. The natives say that +this arm of dead water extends for three or four days' sailing, and is +then lost in the high reeds. My reis Diabb declares this to be a mere +backwater, and that it is not connected with the main river by any +positive channel. + +So miserable are the natives of the Kytch tribe, that they devour both +skins and bones of all dead animals; the bones are pounded between +stones, and when reduced to powder they are boiled to a kind of +porridge; nothing is left even for a fly to feed upon, when an animal +either dies a natural death, or is killed. I never pitied poor creatures +more than these utterly destitute savages; their method of returning +thanks is by holding your hand and affecting to spit upon it; which +operation they do not actually perform, as I have seen stated in works +upon the White Nile. Their domestic arrangements are peculiar. Polygamy +is of course allowed, as in all other hot climates and savage countries; +but when a man becomes too old to pay sufficient attention to his +numerous young wives, the eldest son takes the place of his father and +becomes his substitute. To every herd of cattle there is a sacred bull, +which is supposed to exert an influence over the prosperity of the +flocks; his horns are ornamented with tufts of feathers, and frequently +with small bells, and he invariably leads the great herd to pasture. On +starting in the early morning from the cattle kraal the natives address +the bull, telling him "to watch over the herd; to keep the cows from +straying; and to lead them to the sweetest pastures, so that they shall +give abundance of milk," &c. + +Jan. 21st.--Last night a sudden squall carried away Koorshid Aga's +mast by the deck, leaving him a complete wreck. The weather to-day is +dull, oppressive, and dead calm. As usual, endless marshes, and +mosquitoes. I never either saw or heard of so disgusting a country as +that bordering the White Nile from Khartoum to this point. Course S.E. +as nearly as I can judge, but the endless windings, and the absence of +any mark as a point, make it difficult to give an accurate course--the +river about a hundred yards in width of clear water; alive with floating +vegetation, with a current of about two miles per hour. + +Jan. 22d.--The luxuries of the country as usual--malaria, marshes, +mosquitoes, misery; far as the eye can reach, vast treeless marshes +perfectly lifeless. At times progressing slowly by towing, the men +struggling through the water with the rope; at other times by running +round the boat in a circle, pulling with their hands at the grass, which +thus acts like the cogs of a wheel to move us gradually forward. One of +my horses, "Filfil," out of pure amusement kicks at the men as they +pass, and having succeeded several times in kicking them into the river, +he perseveres in the fun, I believe for lack of other employment. + +Hippopotami are heard snorting in the high reeds both day and night, but +we see very few. The black women on board are daily quarrelling together +and fighting like bull-dogs; little Gaddum Her is a regular black toy +terrier, rather old, wonderfully strong, very short, but making up in +spirit for what she lacks in stature; she is the quintessence of vice, +being ready for a stand-up fight at the shortest notice. On one occasion +she fought with her antagonist until both fell down the hold, smashing +all my water jars; on another day they both fell into the river. The +ennui of this wretched voyage appears to try the temper of both man and +beast; the horses, donkeys, and camels are constantly fighting and +biting at all around. + +Jan. 23d.--At 8 a.m. arrived at Aboukooka, the establishment of a +French trader. It is impossible to describe the misery of the land; in +the midst of the vast expanse of marsh is a little plot of dry ground +about thirty-five yards square, and within thirty yards of the river, +but to be reached only by wading through the swamp. The establishment +consisted of about a dozen straw huts, occupied by a wretched +fever-stricken set of people; the vakeel, and others employed, came to +the boats to beg for corn. I stopped for ten minutes at the charming +watering-place Aboukooka to obtain the news of the country. The current +at this point is as usual very strong, being upwards of two and a half +miles per hour; the river is quite bank-full although not actually +flooding, the windings endless; one moment our course is due north, then +east, then again north, and as suddenly due south; in fact, we face +every point of the compass within an hour. Frequently the noggurs that +are far in the rear appear in advance; it is a heartbreaking river +without a single redeeming point; I do not wonder at the failure of all +expeditions in this wretched country. There is a breeze to-day, thus the +oppressive heat and stagnated marsh atmosphere is relieved. I have +always remarked that when the sky is clouded we suffer more from heat +and oppression than when the day is clear; there is a weight in the +atmosphere that would be interesting if tested by the barometer. + +The water is excessively bad throughout the White Nile, especially +between the Shillook and the Kytch tribes; that of the Bahr Gazal is +even worse. The reis Diabb tells me that the north wind always fails +between the Nuehr and the upper portion of the Kytch. I could not +believe that so miserable a country existed as the whole of this land. +There is no game to be seen at this season, few birds, and not even +crocodiles show themselves; all the water-animals are hidden in the high +grass; thus there is absolutely nothing living to be seen, but day after +day is passed in winding slowly through the labyrinth of endless marsh, +through clouds of mosquitoes. + +At 4.20 a.m. arrived at the Austrian mission-station of St. Croix, and +I delivered a letter to the chief of the establishment, Herr Morlang. + +Jan. 24th.--Took observations of the sun, making latitude 6 degrees +39'. + +The mission-station consists of about twenty grass huts on a patch of +dry ground close to the river. The church is a small hut, but neatly +arranged. Herr Morlang acknowledged, with great feeling, that the +mission was absolutely useless among such savages; that he had worked +with much zeal for many years, but that the natives were utterly +impracticable. They were far below the brutes, as the latter show signs +of affection to those who are kind to them; while the natives, on the +contrary, are utterly obtuse to all feelings of gratitude. He described +the people as lying and deceitful to a superlative degree; the more they +receive the more they desire, but in return they will do nothing. + +Twenty or thirty of these disgusting, ash-smeared, stark naked brutes, +armed with clubs of hard wood brought to a point, were lying idly about +the station. The mission having given up the White Nile as a total +failure, Herr Morlang sold the whole village and mission-station to +Koorshid Aga this morning for 3,000 piastres, 30 pounds! I purchased a +horse of the missionaries for 1,000 piastres, which I christened +"Priest" as coming from the mission; he is a good-looking animal, and +has been used to the gun, as the unfortunate Baron Harnier rode him +buffalo-hunting. This good sportsman was a Prussian nobleman, who with +two European attendants, had for some time amused himself by collecting +objects of natural history and shooting in this neighbourhood. Both his +Europeans succumbed to marsh fever. + +The end of Baron Harnier was exceedingly tragic. Having wounded a +buffalo, the animal charged a native attendant and threw him to the +ground; Baron Harnier was unloaded, and with great courage he attacked +the buffalo with the butt-end of his rifle to rescue the man then +beneath the animal's horns. The buffalo left the man and turned upon his +new assailant. The native, far from assisting his master, who had thus +jeopardized his life to save him, fled from the spot. The unfortunate +baron was found by the missionaries trampled and gored into an +undistinguishable mass; and the dead body of the buffalo was found at a +short distance, the animal having been mortally wounded. I went to see +the grave of this brave Prussian, who had thus sacrificed so noble a +life for so worthless an object as a cowardly native. It had been well +cared for by the kind hands of the missionaries and was protected by +thorn bushes laid around it, but I fear it will be neglected now that +the mission has fallen into unholy hands. It is a pitiable sight to +witness the self-sacrifice that many noble men have made in these +frightful countries without any good results. Near to the grave of Baron +Harnier are those of several members of the mission, who have left their +bones in this horrid land, while not one convert has been made from the +mission of St. Croix. + +The river divides into two branches, about five miles above this +station, forming an island. Upon this is a fishing-station of the +natives; the native name of the spot is Pomone. The country is swampy +and scantily covered with bushes and small trees, but no actual timber. +As usual, the entire country is dead flat; it abounds with elephants a +few miles inland. Herr Morlang describes the whole of the White Nile +traders as a mere colony of robbers, who pillage and shoot the natives +at discretion. On the opposite side of the river there is a large +neglected garden, belonging to the mission. Although the soil is +extremely rich, neither grapes nor pomegranate will succeed; they bear +fruit, but of a very acrid flavour. Dates blossom, but will not fruit. + +Jan. 25th.--Started at 7 A.M. Course S.E. + +Jan. 26th.--The Bohr tribe on the east bank. No wind. The current +nearly three miles per hour. The river about a hundred and twenty yards +wide in clear water. Marshes and flats, as usual. Thermometer throughout +the journey, at 6 A.M., 68 degrees Fahr., and at noon 86 to 93 degrees +Fahr. + +Jan. 27th.--One day is a repetition of the preceding. + +Jan. 28th.--Passed two bivouacs of the Aliab tribe, with great herds +of cattle on the west bank. The natives appeared to be friendly, dancing +and gesticulating as the boats passed. The White Nile tribe not only +milk their cows, but they bleed their cattle periodically, and boil the +blood for food. Driving a lance into a vein in the neck, they bleed the +animal copiously, which operation is repeated about once a month. + +Jan. 29th.--Passed a multitude of cattle and natives on a spot on the +right bank, in clouds of smoke as a "chasse des moustiques." They make +tumuli of dung, which are constantly on fire, fresh fuel being +continually added, to drive away the mosquitoes. Around these heaps the +cattle crowd in hundreds, living with the natives in the smoke. By +degrees the heaps of ashes become about eight feet high; they are then +used as sleeping-places and watch-stations by the natives, who, rubbing +themselves all over with the ashes, have a ghastly and devilish +appearance that is indescribable. The country is covered with old tumuli +formed in this manner. A camp may contain twenty or thirty such, in +addition to fresh heaps that are constantly burning. Fires of cow-dung +are also made on the leveled tops of the old heaps, and bundles of green +canes, about sixteen feet high, are planted on the summit; these wave in +the breeze like a plume of ostrich feathers, and give shade to the +people during the heat of the day. + +JAN. 30TH.--Arrived at the "Shir" tribe. The men are, as usual in +these countries, armed with well-made ebony clubs, two lances, a bow +(always strung), and a bundle of arrows; their hands are completely full +of weapons; and they carry a neatly-made miniature stool slung upon +their backs, in addition to an immense pipe. Thus a man carries all that +be most values about his person. The females in this tribe are not +absolutely naked; like those of the Kytch, they wear small lappets of +tanned leather as broad as the hand; at the back of the belt, which +supports this apron, is a tail which reaches to the lower portions of +the thighs; this tail is formed of finely-cut strips of leather, and +the costume has doubtless been the foundation for the report I had +received from the Arabs, "that a tribe in Central Africa had tails like +horses." The women carry their children very conveniently in a skin +slung from their shoulders across the back, and secured by a thong round +the waist; in this the young savage sits delightfully. The huts +throughout all tribes are circular, with entrances so low that the +natives creep both in and out upon their hands and knees. The men wear +tufts of cock's feathers on the crown of the head; and their favorite +attitude, when standing, is on one leg while leaning on a spear, the +foot of the raised leg resting on the inside of the other knee. Their +arrows are about three feet long, without feathers, and pointed with +hard wood instead of iron, the metal being scarce among the Shir tribe. +The most valuable article of barter for this tribe is the iron hoe +generally used among the White Nile negroes. In form it is precisely +similar to the "ace of spades." The finery most prized by the women are +polished iron anklets, which they wear in such numbers that they reach +nearly half-way up the calf of the leg; the tinkling of these rings is +considered to be very enticing, but the sound reminds one of the +clanking of convicts' fetters. + +All the tribes of the White Nile have their harvest of the lotus seed. +There are two species of water-lily--the large white flower, and a +small variety. The seed-pod of the white lotus is like an unblown +artichoke, containing a number of light red grains equal in size to +mustard-seed, but shaped like those of the poppy, and similar to them in +flavour, being sweet and nutty. The ripe pods are collected and strung +upon sharp-pointed reeds about four feet in length. When thus threaded +they are formed into large bundles, and carried from the river to the +villages, where they are dried in the sun, and stored for use. The seed +is ground into flour, and made into a kind of porridge. The women of the +Shir tribe are very clever at manufacturing baskets and mats from the +leaf of the dome palm. They also make girdles and necklaces of minute +pieces of river mussel shells threaded upon the hair of the giraffe's +tail. This is a work of great time, and the effect is about equal to a +string of mother-of-pearl buttons. + +Jan. 31st.--At 1.15 P.M. sighted Gebel Lardo, bearing S. 30 degrees +west. This is the first mountain we have seen, and we are at last near +our destination, Gondokoro. I observed to-day a common sand-piper +sitting on the head of a hippopotamus; when he disappeared under water +the bird skimmed over the surface, hovering near the spot until the +animal reappeared, when he again settled. + +Feb. 1st.--The character of the river has changed. The marshes have +given place to dry ground; the banks are about four feet above the +water-level, and well wooded; the country having the appearance of an +orchard, and being thickly populated. The natives thronged to the boats, +being astonished at the camels. At one village during the voyage the +natives examined the donkeys with great curiosity, thinking that they +were the oxen of our country, and that we were bringing them to exchange +for ivory. + +Feb. 2nd--The mountain Lardo is about twelve miles west of the river. +At daybreak we sighted the mountains near Gondokoro, bearing due south. +As yet I have seen no symptoms of hostility in this country. I cannot +help, thinking that the conduct of the natives depends much upon that of +the traveller. Arrived at Gondokoro. By astronomical observation I +determined the latitude, 4 degrees 55 minutes North, Longitude 31 +degrees 46 minutes East. Gondokoro is a great improvement upon the +interminable marshes; the soil is firm and raised about twenty feet +above the river level. Distant mountains relieve the eye accustomed to +the dreary flats of the White Nile; and evergreen trees scattered over +the face of the landscape, with neat little native villages beneath +their shade, form a most inviting landing-place after a long and tedious +voyage. This spot was formerly a mission-station. There remain to this +day the ruins of the brick establishment and church, and the wreck of +what was once a garden; groves of citron and lime-trees still exist, the +only signs that an attempt at civilization has been made--"seed cast +upon the wayside." There is no town. Gondokoro is merely a station of +the ivory traders, occupied for about two months during the year, after +which time it is deserted, when the annual boats return to Khartoum and +the remaining expeditions depart for the interior. A few miserable grass +huts are all that dignify the spot with a name. The climate is unhealthy +and hot. The thermometer from 90 to 95 degrees Fahrenheit at noon in the +shade. + +I landed the animals from the boats in excellent condition all rejoicing +in the freedom of open pasturage. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +BAD RECEPTION AT GONDOKORO + +All were thankful that the river voyage was concluded; the tedium of the +White Nile will have been participated by the reader, upon whom I have +inflicted the journal, as no other method of description could possibly +convey an idea of the general desolation. + +Having landed all my stores, and housed my corn in some granaries +belonging to Koorshid Aga, I took a receipt from him for the quantity, +and gave him an order to deliver one-half from my depot to Speke and +Grant, should they arrive at Gondokoro during my absence in the +interior. I was under an apprehension that they might arrive by some +route without my knowledge, while I should be penetrating south. + +There were a great number of men at Gondokoro belonging to the various +traders, who looked upon me with the greatest suspicion; they could not +believe that simple travelling was my object, and they were shortly +convinced that I was intent upon espionage in their nefarious ivory +business and slave-hunting. + +In conversing with the traders, and assuring them that my object was +entirely confined to a search for the Nile sources, and an inquiry for +Speke and Grant, I heard a curious report that had been brought down by +the natives from the interior, that at some great distance to the south +there were two white men who had been for a long time prisoners of a +sultan; and that these men had wonderful fireworks; that both had been +very ill, and that one had died. It was in vain that I endeavoured to +obtain some further clue to this exciting report. There was a rumour +that some native had a piece of wood with marks upon it that had +belonged to the white men; but upon inquiry I found that this account +was only a report given by some distant tribe. Nevertheless, I attached +great importance to the rumour, as there was no white man south of +Gondokoro engaged in the ivory trade; therefore there was a strong +probability that the report had some connexion with the existence of +Speke and Grant. I had heard, when at Khartoum, that the most advanced +trading station was about fifteen days' march from Gondokoro, and my +plan of operations had always projected a direct advance to that +station, where I had intended to leave all my heavy baggage in depot, +and to proceed from thence as a "point de depart" to the south. I now +understood that the party were expected to arrive at Gondokoro from that +station with ivory in a few days, and I determined to wait for their +arrival, and to return with them in company. Their ivory porters +returning, might carry my baggage, and thus save the backs of my +transport animals. + +I accordingly amused myself at Gondokoro, exercising my horses in riding +about the neighbourhood, and studying the place and people. The native +dwellings are the perfection of cleanliness; the domicile of each family +is surrounded by a hedge of the impenetrable euphorbia, and the interior +of the enclosure generally consists of a yard neatly plastered with a +cement of ashes, cow-dung, and sand. Upon this cleanly-swept surface are +one or more huts surrounded by granaries of neat wicker-work, thatched, +resting upon raised platforms. The huts have projecting roofs in order +to afford a shade, and the entrance is usually about two feet high. When +a member of the family dies he is buried in the yard; a few ox-horns and +skulls are suspended on a pole above the spot, while the top of the pole +is ornamented with a bunch of cock's feathers. Every man carries his +weapons, pipe, and stool, the whole (except the stool) being held +between his legs when standing. These natives of Gondokoro are the Bari: +the men are well grown, the women are not prepossessing, but the +negro-type of thick lips and flat nose is wanting; their features are +good, and the woolly hair alone denotes the trace of negro blood. They +are tattooed upon the stomach, sides, and back, so closely, that it has +the appearance of a broad belt of fish-scales, especially when they are +rubbed with red ochre, which is the prevailing fashion. This pigment is +made of a peculiar clay, rich in oxide of iron, which, when burnt, is +reduced to powder, and then formed into lumps like pieces of soap; both +sexes anoint themselves with this ochre, formed into a paste by the +admixture of grease, giving themselves the appearance of new red bricks. +The only hair upon their persons is a small tuft upon the crown of the +head, in which they stick one or more feathers. The women are generally +free from hair, their heads being shaved. They wear a neat little +lappet, about six inches long, of beads, or of small iron rings, worked +like a coat of mail, in lieu of a fig-leaf, and the usual tail of fine +shreds of leather or twine, spun from indigenous cotton, pendant behind. +Both the lappet and tail are fastened on a belt which is worn round the +loins, like those in the Shir tribe; thus the toilette is completed at +once. It would be highly useful, could they only wag their tails to +whisk off the flies which are torments in this country. + +The cattle are very small; the goats and sheep are quite Lilliputian, +but they generally give three at a birth, and thus multiply quickly. The +people of the country were formerly friendly, but the Khartoumers +pillage and murder them at discretion in all directions; thus, in +revenge, they will shoot a poisoned arrow at a stranger unless he is +powerfully escorted. The effect of the poison used for the arrow-heads +is very extraordinary. A man came to me for medical aid; five months ago +he bad been wounded by a poisoned arrow in the leg, below the calf, and +the entire foot had been eaten away by the action of the poison. The +bone rotted through just above the ankle, and the foot dropped off. The +most violent poison is the produce of the root of a tree, whose milky +juice yields a resin that is smeared upon the arrow. It is brought from +a great distance, from some country far west of Gondokoro. The juice of +the species of euphorbia, common in these countries, is also used for +poisoning arrows. Boiled to the consistence of tar, it is then smeared +upon the blade. The action of the poison is to corrode the flesh, which +loses its fiber, and drops away like jelly, after severe inflammation +and swelling. The arrows are barbed with diabolical ingenuity; some are +arranged with poisoned heads that fit into sockets; these detach from +the arrow on an attempt to withdraw them; thus the barbed blade, thickly +smeared with poison, remains in the wound, and before it can be cut out +the poison is absorbed by the system. Fortunately the natives are bad +archers. The bows are invariably made of the male bamboo, and are kept +perpetually strung; they are exceedingly stiff, but not very elastic, +and the arrows are devoid of feathers, being simple reeds or other light +wood, about three feet long, and slightly knobbed at the base as a hold +for the finger and thumb; the string is never drawn with the two +forefingers, as in most countries, but is simply pulled by holding the +arrow between the middle joint of the forefinger and the thumb. A stiff +bow drawn in this manner has very little power; accordingly the extreme +range seldom exceeds a hundred and ten yards. + +The Bari tribe are very hostile, and are considered to be about the +worst of the White Nile. They have been so often defeated by the +traders' parties in the immediate neighborhood of Gondokoro, that they +are on their best behavior, while within half a mile of the station; but +it is not at all uncommon to be asked for beads as a tax for the right +of sitting under a shady tree, or for passing through the country. The +traders' people, in order to terrify them into submission, were in the +habit of binding them, hands and feet, and carrying them to the edge of +a cliff about thirty feet high, a little beyond the ruins of the old +mission-house: beneath this cliff the river boils in a deep eddy; into +this watery grave the victims were remorselessly hurled as food for +crocodiles. It appeared that this punishment was dreaded by the natives +more than the bullet or rope, and it was accordingly adopted by the +trading parties. + +Upon my arrival at Gondokoro I was looked upon by all these parties as a +spy sent by the British Government. Whenever I approached the +encampments of the various traders, I heard the clanking of fetters +before I reached the station, as the slaves were being quickly driven +into hiding-places to avoid inspection. They were chained by two rings +secured round the ankles, and connected by three or four links. One of +these traders was a Copt, the father of the American Consul at Khartoum; +and, to my surprise, I saw the vessels full of brigands arrive at +Gondokoro, with the American flag flying at the mast-head. + +Gondokoro was a perfect hell. It is utterly ignored by the Egyptian +authorities, although well known to be a colony of cut-throats. Nothing +would be easier than to send a few officers and two hundred men from +Khartoum to form a military government, and thus impede the slave-trade; +but a bribe from the traders to the authorities is sufficient to insure +an uninterrupted asylum for any amount of villany. The camps were full +of slaves, and the Bari natives assured me that there were large depots +of slaves in the interior belonging to the traders that would be marched +to Gondokoro for shipment to the Soudan a few hours after my departure. +I was the great stumbling-block to the trade, and my presence at +Gondokoro was considered as an unwarrantable intrusion upon a locality +sacred to slavery and iniquity. There were about six hundred of the +traders' people at Gondokoro, whose time was passed in drinking, +quarrelling, and ill-treating the slaves. The greater number were in a +constant state of intoxication, and when in such a state, it was their +invariable custom to fire off their guns in the first direction prompted +by their drunken instincts; thus, from morning till night, guns were +popping in all quarters, and the bullets humming through the air +sometimes close to our ears, and on more than one occasion they struck +up the dust at my feet. Nothing was more probable than a ball through +the head by ACCIDENT, which might have had the beneficial effect of +ridding the traders from a spy. A boy was sitting upon the gunwale of +one of the boats, when a bullet suddenly struck him in the head, +shattering the skull to atoms. NO ONE HAD DONE IT. The body fell into +the water, and the fragments of the skull were scattered on the deck. + +After a few days' detention at Gondokoro, I saw unmistakeable signs of +discontent among my men, who had evidently been tampered with by the +different traders' parties. One evening several of the most disaffected +came to me with a complaint that they had not enough meat, and that they +must be allowed to make a razzia upon the cattle of the natives to +procure some oxen. This demand being of course refused, they retired, +muttering in an insolent manner their determination of stealing cattle +with or without my permission. I said nothing at the time, but early on +the following morning I ordered the drum to beat, and the men to fall +in. I made them a short address, reminding them of the agreement made at +Khartoum to follow me faithfully, and of the compact that had been +entered into, that they were neither to indulge in slave-hunting nor in +cattle-stealing. The only effect of my address was a great outbreak of +insolence on the part of the ringleader of the previous evening. This +fellow, named Eesur, was an Arab, and his impertinence was so violent, +that I immediately ordered him twenty-five lashes, as an example to the +others. + +Upon the vakeel (Saati) advancing to seize him, there was a general +mutiny. Many of the men threw down their guns and seized sticks, and +rushed to the rescue of their tall ringleader. Saati was a little man, +and was perfectly helpless. Here was an escort: these were the men upon +whom I was to depend in hours of difficulty and danger on an expedition +in unknown regions; these were the fellows that I had considered to be +reduced "from wolves to lambs!" + +I was determined not to be done, and to insist upon the punishment of +the ringleader. I accordingly went towards him with the intention of +seizing him; but he, being backed by upwards of forty men, had the +impertinence to attack me, rushing forward with a fury that was +ridiculous. To stop his blow, and to knock him into the middle of the +crowd, was not difficult; and after a rapid repetition of the dose, I +disabled him, and seizing him by the throat, I called to my vakeel Saati +for a rope to bind him, but in an instant I had a crowd of men upon me +to rescue their leader. How the affair would have ended I cannot say; +but as the scene lay within ten yards of my boat, my wife, who was ill +with fever in the cabin, witnessed the whole affray, and seeing me +surrounded, she rushed out, and in a few moments she was in the middle +of the crowd, who at that time were endeavoring to rescue my prisoner. +Her sudden appearance had a curious effect, and calling upon several of +the least mutinous to assist, she very pluckily made her way up to me. +Seizing the opportunity of an indecision that was for the moment evinced +by the crowd, I shouted to the drummer boy to beat the drum. In an +instant the drum beat, and at the top of my voice I ordered the men to +"fall in." It is curious how mechanically an order is obeyed if given at +the right moment, even in the midst of mutiny. Two-thirds of the men +fell in, and formed in line, while the remainder retreated with the +ringleader, Eesur, whom they led away, declaring that he was badly hurt. +The affair ended in my insisting upon all forming in line, and upon the +ringleader being brought forward. In this critical moment Mrs. Baker, +with great tact, came forward and implored me to forgive him if he +kissed my hand and begged for pardon. This compromise completely won the +men, who, although a few minutes before in open mutiny, now called upon +their ringleader Eesur to apologize, and that all would be right. I made +them rather a bitter speech, and dismissed them. + +From that moment I knew that my expedition was fated. This outbreak was +an example of what was to follow. Previous to leaving Khartoum I had +felt convinced that I could not succeed with such villains for escort as +these Khartoumers: thus I had applied to the Egyptian authorities for a +few troops, but had been refused. I was now in an awkward position. All +my men had received five months' wages in advance, according to the +custom of the White Nile; thus I had no control over them. There were no +Egyptian authorities in Gondokoro; it was a nest of robbers; and my men +had just exhibited so pleasantly their attachment to me, and their +fidelity. There was no European beyond Gondokoro, thus I should be the +only white man among this colony of wolves; and I had in perspective a +difficult and uncertain path, where the only chance of success lay in +the complete discipline of my escort, and the perfect organization of +the expedition. After the scene just enacted I felt sure that my escort +would give me more cause for anxiety than the acknowledged hostility of +the natives. + +I made arrangements with a Circassian trader, Koorshid Aga, for the +purchase of a few oxen, and a fat beast was immediately slaughtered for +the men. They were shortly in the best humour, feasting upon masses of +flesh cut in strips and laid for a few minutes upon the embers, while +the regular meal was being prepared. They were now almost affectionate, +vowing that they would follow me to the end of the world; while the late +ringleader, in spite of his countenance being rather painted in the late +row, declared that no man would be so true as himself, and that every +"arrow should pass through him before it should reach me" in the event +of a conflict with the natives. A very slight knowledge of human nature +was required to foresee the future with such an escort:--if love and +duty were dependent upon full bellies, mutiny and disorder would appear +with hard fare. However, by having parade every morning at a certain +hour, I endeavoured to establish a degree of regularity. I had been +waiting at Gondokoro twelve days, expecting the arrival of Debono's +party from the south, with whom I wished to return. Suddenly, on the +15th February, I heard the rattle of musketry at a great distance, and a +dropping fire from the south. To give an idea of the moment I must +extract verbatim from my journal as written at the time. + +"Guns firing in the distance; Debono's ivory porters arriving, for whom +I have waited. My men rushed madly to my boat, with the report that two +white men were with them who had come from the SEA! Could they be Speke +and Grant? Off I ran, and soon met them in reality. Hurrah for old +England! they had come from the Victoria N'yanza, from which the Nile +springs .... The mystery of ages solved. With my pleasure of meeting +them is the one disappointment, that I had not met them farther on the +road in my search for them; however, the satisfaction is, that my +previous arrangements had been such as would have insured my finding +them had they been in a fix .... My projected route would have brought +me vis-a-vis with them, as they had come from the lake by the course I +had proposed to take .... All my men perfectly mad with excitement: +firing salutes as usual with ball cartridge, they shot one of my +donkeys; a melancholy sacrifice as an offering at the completion of this +geographical discovery." + +When I first met them they were walking along the bank of the river +towards my boats. At a distance of about a hundred yards I recognised my +old friend Speke, and with a heart beating with joy I took off my cap +and gave a welcome hurrah! as I ran towards him. For the moment he did +not recognize me; ten years' growth of beard and moustache had worked a +change; and as I was totally unexpected, my sudden appearance in the +center of Africa appeared to him incredible. I hardly required an +introduction to his companion, as we felt already acquainted, and after +the transports of this happy meeting we walked together to my diahbiah; +my men surrounding us with smoke and noise by keeping up an unremitting +fire of musketry the whole way. We were shortly seated on deck under the +awning, and such rough fare as could be hastily prepared was set before +these two ragged, careworn specimens of African travel, whom I looked +upon with feelings of pride as my own countrymen. As a good ship arrives +in harbor, battered and torn by a long and stormy voyage, yet sound in +her frame and seaworthy to the last, so both these gallant travelers +arrived at Gondokoro. Speke appeared the more worn of the two; he was +excessively lean, but in reality he was in good tough condition; he had +walked the whole way from Zanzibar, never having once ridden during that +wearying march. Grant was in honourable rags; his bare knees projecting +through the remnants of trowsers that were an exhibition of rough +industry in tailor's work. He was looking tired and feverish, but both +men had a fire in the eye that showed the spirit that had led them +through. + +They wished to leave Gondokoro as soon as possible, en route for +England, but delayed their departure until the moon should be in a +position for an observation for determining the longitude. My boats were +fortunately engaged by me for five months, thus Speke and Grant could +take charge of them to Khartoum. + +At the first blush on meeting them I had considered my expedition as +terminated by having met them, and by their having accomplished the +discovery of the Nile source; but upon my congratulating them with all +my heart, upon the honour they had so nobly earned, Speke and Grant with +characteristic candour and generosity gave me a map of their route, +showing that they had been unable to complete the actual exploration of +the Nile, and that a most important portion still remained to be +determined. It appeared that in N. lat. 2 degrees 17 minutes, they had +crossed the Nile, which they had tracked from the Victoria Lake; but the +river, which from its exit from that lake had a northern course, turned +suddenly to the WEST from Karuma Falls (the point at which they crossed +it at lat. 2 degrees 17 minutes). They did not see the Nile again until +they arrived in N. lat. 3 deg. 32 min., which was then flowing from the +W.S.W. The natives and the King of Unyoro (Kamrasi) had assured them +that the Nile from the Victoria N'yanza, which they had crossed at +Karuma, flowed westward for several days' journey, and at length fell +into a large lake called the Luta N'zige; that this lake came from the +south, and that the Nile on entering the northern extremity almost +immediately made its exit, and as a navigable river continued its course +to the north, through the Koshi and Madi countries. Both Speke and Grant +attached great importance to this lake Luta N'zige, and the former was +much annoyed that it had been impossible for them to carry out the +exploration. He foresaw that stay-at-home geographers, who, with a +comfortable armchair to sit in, travel so easily with their fingers on a +map, would ask him why he had not gone from such a place to such a +place? why he had not followed the Nile to the Luta N'zige lake, and +from the lake to Gondokoro? As it happened, it was impossible for Speke +and Grant to follow the Nile from Karuma:--the tribes were fighting +with Kamrasi, and no strangers could have got through the country. +Accordingly they procured their information most carefully, completed +their map, and laid down the reported lake in its supposed position, +showing the Nile as both influent and effluent precisely as had been +explained by the natives. + +Speke expressed his conviction that the Luta N'zige must be a second +source of the Nile, and that geographers would be dissatisfied that he +had not explored it. To me this was most gratifying. I had been much +disheartened at the idea that the great work was accomplished, and that +nothing remained for exploration; I even said to Speke, "Does not one +leaf of the laurel remain for me?" I now heard that the field was not +only open, but that an additional interest was given to the exploration +by the proof that the Nile flowed out of one great lake, the Victoria, +but that it evidently must derive an additional supply from an unknown +lake as it entered it at the NORTHERN extremity, while the body of the +lake came from the south. The fact of a great body of water such as the +Luta N'zige extending in a direct line from south to north, while the +general system of drainage of the Nile was from the same direction, +showed most conclusively, that the Luta N'zige, if it existed in the +form assumed, must have an important position in the basin of the Nile. + +My expedition had naturally been rather costly, and being in excellent +order it would have been heartbreaking to have returned fruitlessly. I +therefore arranged immediately for my departure, and Speke most kindly +wrote in my journal such instructions as might be useful. I therefore +copy them verbatim: + +"Before you leave this be sure you engage two men, one speaking the Bari +or Madi language, and one speaking Kinyoro, to be your interpreters +through the whole journey, for there are only two distinct families of +languages in the country, though of course some dialectic differences, +which can be easily overcome by anybody who knows the family language. +. . . Now, as you are bent on first going to visit Kamrasi M'Kamma, or +King of Unyoro, and then to see as much of the western countries +bordering on the little Luta N'zige, or `dead locust' lake, as possible, +go in company with the ivory hunters across the Asua river to Apuddo +eight marches, and look for game to the east of that village. Two +marches further on will bring you to Panyoro, where there are antelopes +in great quantity; and in one march more the Turks' farthest outpost, +Faloro, will be reached, where you had better form a depot, and make a +flying trip across the White Nile to Koshi for the purpose of inquiring +what tribes live to west and south of it, especially of the Wallegga; +how the river comes from the south, and where it is joined by the little +Luta N'zige. Inquire also after the country of Chopi, and what +difficulties or otherwise you would have to overcome if you followed up +the left bank of the White river to Kamrasi's; because, if found easy, +it would be far nearer and better to reach Kamrasi that way than going +through the desert jungles of Ukidi, as we went. This is the way I +should certainly go myself, but if you do not like the look of it, +preserve your information well; and after returning to Faloro, make Koki +per Chougi in two marches, and tell old Chougi you wish to visit his +M'Kamma Kamrasi, for Chougi was appointed Governor-general of that place +by Kamrasi to watch the Wakidi who live between his residence and Chopi, +which is the next country you will reach after passing through the +jungles of Ukidi and crossing the Nile below Karuma Falls. Arrived at +Chopi, inquire for the residence of the Katikiro or commander-in-chief, +who will show you great respect, give you cows and pombe, and send +messengers on to Kamrasi to acquaint him of your intention to visit him. +This is the richest part of Kamrasi's possessions, and by a little +inquiry you will learn much about the lake. Kamrasi's brother Rionga +lives on a river island within one march of this. They are deadly +enemies and always fighting, so if you made a mistake and went to +Rionga's first, as the Turks would wish you to do, all travelling in +Unyoro would be cut off. Tell the Katikiro all your plans frankly, and +remark earnestly upon my great displeasure at Kamrasi's having detained +me so long in his country without deigning to see me, else he may be +assured no other white man will ever take the trouble to see him. We +came down the river in boats from Kamrasi's to Chopi, but the boatmen +gave much trouble, therefore it would be better for you to go overland. +Kamrasi will most likely send Kidgwiga, an excellent officer, to escort +you to his palace, but if he does not, ask after him; you could not have +a better man. + +"Arrived at Kamrasi's, insist upon seeing all his fat wives and +brothers. Find out all you can about his pedigree, and ask for leave to +follow up the lake from its JUNCTION with the Nile to Utumbi, and then +crossing to its northern bank follow it down to Ullegga and Koshi. If +you are so fortunate as to reach Utumbi, and don't wish to go farther +south, inquire well about Ruanda, the M'Fumbiro mountains, if there is +any copper in Ruanda, and whether or not the people of those countries +receive Simbi (the cowrie shell) or any other articles of merchandise +from the west coast, guarding well that no confusion is made with the +trade of Karagwe, for Rumanika sends men to Utumbi ivory-hunting +continually. "Remember well that the Wahuma are most likely Gallas; this +question is most interesting, and the more you can gather of their +history, since they crossed the White Nile, the better. Formerly Unyoro, +Uganda, and Uddhu were all united in one vast kingdom called Kittara, +but this name is now only applied to certain portions of that kingdom. + +"Nothing is known of the Mountains of the Moon to the westward of +Ruanda. In Unyoro the king will feed you; beyond that I suspect you will +have to buy food with beads." + +Such was the information most kindly written by Speke, which, in +addition to a map drawn by Captain Grant, and addressed to the Secretary +of the Royal Geographical Society, was to be my guide in the important +exploration resolved upon. I am particular in publishing these details, +in order to show the perfect freedom from jealousy of both Captains +Speke and Grant. Unfortunately, in most affairs of life, there is not +only fair emulation, but ambition is too often combined with intense +jealousy of others. Had this miserable feeling existed in the minds of +Speke and Grant, they would have returned to England with the sole +honour of discovering the source of the Nile; but in their true devotion +to geographical science and especially to the specific object of their +expedition they gave me all information to assist in the completion of +the great problem--the "Nile Sources." + +We were all ready to start. Speke and Grant, an their party of +twenty-two people, for Egypt, and I in the opposite direction. At this +season there were many boats at Gondokoro belonging to the traders' +parties, among which were four belonging to Mr. Petherick, three of +which were open cargo boats, and one remarkably nice diahbiah, named the +"Kathleen," that was waiting for Mrs. Petherick and her husband, who +were supposed to be at their trading station, the Niambara, about +seventy miles west of Gondokoro; but no accounts had been heard of them. +On the 20th February they suddenly arrived from the Niambara, with their +people and ivory and were surprised at seeing so large a party of +English in so desolate a spot. It is a curious circumstance, that +although many Europeans had been as far south as Gondokoro, I was the +first Englishman that had ever reached it. We now formed a party of +four. + +Gondokoro has a poor and sandy soil, so unproductive that corn is in the +greatest scarcity and is always brought from Khartoum by the annual +boats for the supply of the traders' people, who congregate there from +the interior, in the months of January and February, to deliver the +ivory for shipment to Khartoum. Corn is seldom or never less than eight +times the price at Khartoum; this is a great drawback to the country, as +each trading party that arrives with ivory from the interior brings with +it five or six hundred native porters, all of whom have to be fed during +their stay at Gondokoro, and in many cases, in times of scarcity, they +starve. This famine has given a bad name to the locality, and it is +accordingly difficult to procure porters from the interior, who +naturally fear starvation. + +I was thus extremely sorry that I was obliged to refuse a supply of corn +to Mr. Petherick upon his application--an act of necessity, but not of +ill-nature upon my part, as I was obliged to leave a certain quantity in +depot at Gondokoro, in case I should be driven back from the interior, +in the event of which, without a supply in depot, utter starvation would +have been the fate of my party. Mr. Petherick accordingly despatched one +of his boats to the Shir tribe down the White Nile to purchase corn in +exchange for molotes (native hoes). The boat returned with corn on the +11th of March. On the 26th February, Speke and Grant sailed from +Gondokoro. Our hearts were too full to say more than a short "God bless +you!" They had won their victory; my work lay all before me. I watched +their boat until it turned the corner, and wished them in my heart all +honor for their great achievement. I trusted to sustain the name they +had won for English perseverance, and I looked forward to meeting them +again in dear old England, when I should have completed the work we had +so warmly planned together. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +GUN ACCIDENT. + +A DAY before the departure of Speke and Grant from Gondokoro, an event +occurred which appeared as a bad omen to the superstitions of my men. I +had ordered the diahbiah to be prepared for sailing: thus, the cargo +having been landed and the boat cleared and washed, we were sitting in +the cabin, when a sudden explosion close to the windows startled us from +our seats, and the consternation of a crowd of men who were on the bank, +showed that some accident had happened. I immediately ran out, and found +that the servants had laid all my rifles upon a mat upon the ground, and +that one of the men had walked over the guns; his foot striking the +hammer of one of the No. 10 Reilly rifles, had momentarily raised it +from the nipple, and an instantaneous explosion was the consequence. The +rifle was loaded for elephants, with seven drachms of powder. There was +a quantity of luggage most fortunately lying before the muzzle, but the +effects of the discharge were extraordinary. The ball struck the steel +scabbard of a sword, tearing off the ring; it then passed obliquely +through the stock of a large rifle, and burst through the +shoulder-plate; entering a packing-case of inch-deal, it passed through +it and through the legs of a man who was sitting at some distance, and +striking the hip-bone of another man, who was sitting at some paces +beyond, it completely smashed both hips, and fortunately being expended, +it lodged in the body. Had it not been for the first objects happily in +the route of the ball, it would have killed several men, as they were +sitting in a crowd exactly before the muzzle. + +Dr. Murie, who had accompanied Mr. Petherick, very kindly paid the +wounded men every attention, but he with the smashed hip died in a few +hours, apparently without pain. + +After the departure of Speke and Grant, I moved my tent to the high +ground above the river; the effluvium from the filth of some thousands +of people was disgusting, and fever was prevalent in all quarters. Both +of us were suffering; also Mr. and Mrs. Petherick, and many of my men, +one of whom died. My animals were all healthy, but the donkeys and +camels were attacked by a bird, about the size of a thrush, which caused +them great uneasiness. This bird is of a greenish-brown colour, with a +powerful red beak, and excessively strong claws. It is a perfect pest to +the animals, and positively eats them into holes. The original object of +the bird in settling upon the animal is to search for vermin, but it is +not contented with the mere insects, and industriously pecks holes in +all parts of the animal, more especially on the back. A wound once +established, adds to the attraction, and the unfortunate animal is so +pestered that it has no time to eat. I was obliged to hire little boys +to watch the donkeys, and to drive off these plagues; but so determined +and bold were the birds, that I have constantly seen them run under the +body of the donkey, clinging to the belly with their feet, and thus +retreating to the opposite side of the animal when chased by the +watch-boys. In a few days my animals were full of wounds, excepting the +horses, whose long tails were effectual whisks. Although the temperature +was high, 95 degrees Fahr., the wind was frequently cold at about three +o'clock in the morning, and one of my horses, "Priest," that I had +lately purchased of the Mission, became paralysed, and could not rise +from the ground. After several days' endeavours to cure him, I was +obliged to shoot him, as the poor animal could not eat. + +I now weighed all my baggage, and found that I had fifty-four cantars +(100 lbs. each). The beads, copper, and ammunition were the terrible +onus. I therefore applied to Mahommed, the vakeel of Andrea Debono, who +had escorted Speke and Grant, and I begged his co-operation in the +expedition. These people had brought down a large quantity of ivory from +the interior, and had therefore a number of porters who would return +empty-handed; I accordingly arranged with Mahommed for fifty porters, +who would much relieve the backs of my animals from Gondokoro to the +station at Faloro, about twelve days' march. At Faloro I intended to +leave my heavy baggage in depot, and to proceed direct to Kamrasi's +country. I promised Mahommed that I would use my influence in all new +countries that I might discover, to open a road for his ivory trade, +provided that he would agree to conduct it by legitimate purchase, and I +gave him a list of the quality of beads most desirable for Kamrasi's +country, according to the description I had received from Speke. + +Mahommed promised to accompany me, not only to his camp at Faloro, but +throughout the whole of my expedition, provided that I would assist him +in procuring ivory, and that I would give him a handsome present. All +was agreed upon, and my own men appeared in high spirits at the prospect +of joining so large a party as that of Mahommed, which mustered about +two hundred men. + +At that time I really placed dependence upon the professions of Mahommed +and his people; they had just brought Speke and Grant with them, and had +received from them presents of a first-class double-barrelled gun and +several valuable rifles. I had promised not only to assist them in their +ivory expeditions, but to give them something very handsome in addition, +and the fact of my having upwards of forty men as escort was also an +introduction, as they would be an addition to the force, which is a +great advantage in hostile countries. Everything appeared to be in good +train, but I little knew the duplicity of these Arab scoundrels. At the +very moment that they were most friendly, they were plotting to deceive +me, and to prevent me from entering the country. They knew, that should +I penetrate the interior, the ivory trade of the White Nile would be no +longer a mystery, and that the atrocities of the slave trade would be +exposed, and most likely be terminated by the intervention of European +Powers; accordingly they combined to prevent my advance, and to +overthrow my expedition completely. The whole of the men belonging to +the various traders were determined that no Englishman should penetrate +into the country; accordingly they fraternised with my escort, and +persuaded them that I was a Christian dog, that it was a disgrace for a +Mahommedan to serve; that they would be starved in my service, as I +would not allow them to steal cattle; that they would have no slaves; +and that I should lead them--God knew where--to the sea, from whence +Speke and Grant had started; that they had left Zanzibar with two +hundred men, and had only arrived at Gondokoro with eighteen, thus the +remainder must have been killed by the natives on the road; that if they +followed me, and arrived at Zanzibar, I should find a ship waiting to +take me to England, and I should leave them to die in a strange country. +Such were the reports circulated to prevent my men from accompanying me, +and it was agreed that Mahommed should fix a day for our pretended start +IN COMPANY, but that he would in reality start a few days before the +time appointed; and that my men should mutiny, and join his party in +cattle-stealing and slave-hunting. This was the substance of the plot +thus carefully concocted. + +My men evinced a sullen demeanour, neglected all orders, and I plainly +perceived a settled discontent upon their general expression. The +donkeys and camels were allowed to stray, and were daily missing, and +recovered with difficulty; the luggage was overrun with white ants +instead of being attended to every morning; the men absented themselves +without leave, and were constantly in the camps of the different +traders. I was fully prepared for some difficulty, but I trusted that +when once on the march I should be able to get them under discipline. +Among my people were two blacks: one, "Richarn," already described as +having been brought up by the Austrian Mission at Khartoum; the other, a +boy of twelve years old, "Saat." As these were the only really faithful +members of the expedition, it is my duty to describe them. Richarn was +an habitual drunkard, but he had his good points; he was honest, and +much attached to both master and mistress. He had been with me for some +months, and was a fair sportsman, and being of an entirely different +race to the Arabs, he kept himself apart from them, and fraternised with +the boy Saat. + +Saat was a boy that would do no evil; he was honest to a superlative +degree, and a great exception to the natives of this wretched country. +He was a native of "Fertit," and was minding his father's goats, when a +child of about six years old, at the time of his capture by the Baggera +Arabs. He described vividly how men on camels suddenly appeared while he +was in the wilderness with his flock, and how he was forcibly seized and +thrust into a large gum sack, and slung upon the back of a camel. Upon +screaming for help, the sack was opened, and an Arab threatened him with +a knife should he make the slightest noise. Thus quieted, he was carried +hundreds of miles through Kordofan to Dongola on the Nile, at which +place he was sold to slave-dealers, and taken to Cairo to be sold to the +Egyptian government as a drummer-boy. Being too young he was rejected, +and while in the dealer's hands he heard from another slave, of the +Austrian Mission at Cairo, that would protect him could he only reach +their asylum. With extraordinary energy for a child of six years old, he +escaped from his master, and made his way to the Mission, where he was +well received, and to a certain extent disciplined and taught as much of +the Christian religion as he could understand. In company with a branch +establishment of the Mission, he was subsequently located at Khartoum, +and from thence was sent up the White Nile to a Mission-station in the +Shillook country. The climate of the White Nile destroyed thirteen +missionaries in the short space of six months, and the boy Saat returned +with the remnant of the party to Khartoum, and was re-admitted into the +Mission. The establishment was at that time swarming with little black +boys from the various White Nile tribes, who repaid the kindness of the +missionaries by stealing everything they could lay their hands upon. At +length the utter worthlessness of the boys, their moral obtuseness, and +the apparent impossibility of improving them, determined the chief of +the Mission to purge his establishment from such imps, and they were +accordingly turned out. Poor little Saat, the one grain of gold amidst +the mire, shared the same fate. + +It was about a week before our departure from Khartoum that Mrs. Baker +and I were at tea in the middle of the court-yard, when a miserable boy +about twelve years old came uninvited to her side, and knelt down in the +dust at her feet. There was something so irresistibly supplicating in +the attitude of the child, that the first impulse was to give him +something from the table. This was declined, and he merely begged to be +allowed to live with us, and to be our boy. He said that he had been +turned out of the Mission, merely because the Bari boys of the +establishment were thieves, and thus he suffered for their sins. I could +not believe it possible that the child had been actually turned out into +the streets, and believing that the fault must lay in the boy, I told +him I would inquire. In the meantime he was given in charge of the cook. + +It happened that, on the following day, I was so much occupied that I +forgot to inquire at the Mission; and once more the cool hour of evening +arrived when, after the intense heat of the day, we sat at table in the +open court-yard; it was refreshed by being plentifully watered. Hardly +were we seated, when again the boy appeared, kneeling in the dust, with +his head lowered at my wife's feet, and imploring to be allowed to +follow us. It was in vain that I explained that we had a boy, and did +not require another; that the journey was long and difficult, and that +he might perhaps die. The boy feared nothing, and craved simply that he +might belong to us. He had no place of shelter, no food; had been stolen +from his parents, and was a helpless outcast. + +The next morning, accompanied by Mrs. Baker, I went to the Mission and +heard that the boy had borne an excellent character, and that it must +have been BY MISTAKE that he had been turned out with the others. This +being conclusive, Saat was immediately adopted. Mrs. Baker was shortly +at work making him some useful clothes, and in an incredibly short time +a great change was effected. As he came from the hands of the +cook--after a liberal use of soap and water, and attired in trowsers, +blouse, and belt--the new boy appeared in a new character. + +From that time he considered himself as belonging absolutely to his +mistress. He was taught by her to sew; Richarn instructed him in the +mysteries of waiting at table, and washing plates, &c.; while I taught +him to shoot, and gave him a light double-barrelled gun. This was his +greatest pride. + +In the evening, when the day's work was done, Saat was allowed to sit +near his mistress; and he was at times amused and instructed by stories +of Europe and Europeans, and anecdotes from the Bible adapted to his +understanding, combined with the first principles of Christianity. He +was very ignorant, notwithstanding his advantages in the Mission, but he +possessed the first grand rudiments of all religion--honesty of purpose. +Although a child of only twelve years old, he was so perfectly +trustworthy that, at the period of our arrival at Gondokoro, he was more +to be depended upon than my vakeel, and nothing could occur among my +mutinous escort without the boy's knowledge: thus he reported the +intended mutiny of the people when there was no other means of +discovering it, and without Saat I should have had no information of +their plots. + +Not only was the boy trustworthy, but he had an extraordinary amount of +moral in addition to physical courage. If any complaint were made, and +Saat was called as a witness--far from the shyness too often evinced +when the accuser is brought face to face with the accused--such was +Saat's proudest moment; and, no matter who the man might be, the boy +would challenge him, regardless of all consequences. We were very fond +of this boy; he was thoroughly good; and in that land of iniquity, +thousands of miles away from all except what was evil, there was a +comfort in having some one innocent and faithful, in whom to trust. + +We were to start upon the following Monday. Mahommed had paid me a +visit, assuring me of his devotion, and begging me to have my baggage in +marching order, as he would send me fifty porters on the Monday, and we +would move off in company. At the very moment that he thus professed, he +was coolly deceiving me. He had arranged to start without me on the +Saturday, while he was proposing to march together on the Monday. This I +did not know at the time. + +One morning I had returned to the tent after having, as usual, inspected +the transport animals, when I observed Mrs. Baker looking +extraordinarily pale, and immediately upon my arrival she gave orders +for the presence of the vakeel (headman). There was something in her +manner, so different to her usual calm, that I was utterly bewildered +when I heard her question the vakeel, "Whether the men were willing to +march?" Perfectly ready, was the reply. "Then order them to strike the +tent, and load the animals; we start this moment." The man appeared +confused, but not more so than I. Something was evidently on foot, but +what I could not conjecture. The vakeel wavered, and to my astonishment +I heard the accusation made against him, that, "during the night, the +whole of the escort had mutinously conspired to desert me, with my arms +and ammunition that were in their hands, and to fire simultaneously at +me should I attempt to disarm them." At first this charge was +indignantly denied until the boy Saat manfully stepped forward, and +declared that the conspiracy was entered into by the whole of the +escort, and that both he and Richarn, knowing that mutiny was intended, +had listened purposely to the conversation during the night; at daybreak +the boy reported the fact to his mistress. Mutiny, robbery, and murder +were thus deliberately determined. + +I immediately ordered an angarep (travelling bedstead) to be placed +outside the tent under a large tree; upon this I laid five +double-barrelled guns loaded with buck shot, a revolver, and a naked +sabre as sharp as a razor. A sixth rifle I kept in my hands while I sat +upon the angarep, with Richarn and Saat both with double-barrelled guns +behind me. Formerly I had supplied each of my men with a piece of +mackintosh waterproof to be tied over the locks of their guns during the +march. I now ordered the drum to be beat, and all the men to form in +line in marching order, with their locks TIED UP IN THE WATERPROOF. I +requested Mrs. Baker to stand behind me, and to point out any man who +should attempt to uncover his locks, when I should give the order to lay +down their arms. The act of uncovering the locks would prove his +intention, in which event I intended to shoot him immediately, and take +my chance with the rest of the conspirators. I had quite determined that +these scoundrels should not rob me of my own arms and ammunition, if I +could prevent it. + +The drum beat, and the vakeel himself went into the men's quarters, and +endeavoured to prevail upon them to answer the call. At length fifteen +assembled in line; the others were nowhere to be found. The locks of the +arms were secured by mackintosh as ordered; it was thus impossible for +any man to fire at me until he should have released his locks. + +Upon assembling in line I ordered them immediately to lay down their +arms. This, with insolent looks of defiance, they refused to do. "Down +with your guns this moment," I shouted, "sons of dogs!" And at the sharp +click of the locks, as I quickly cocked the rifle that I held in my +hands, the cowardly mutineers widened their line and wavered. Some +retreated a few paces to the rear; others sat down, and laid their guns +on the ground; while the remainder slowly dispersed, and sat in twos, or +singly, under the various trees about eighty paces distant. Taking +advantage of their indecision, I immediately rose and. ordered my vakeel +and Richarn to disarm them as they were thus scattered. Foreseeing that +the time had arrived for actual physical force, the cowards capitulated, +agreeing to give up their arms and ammunition if I would give them their +written discharge. I disarmed them immediately, and the vakeel having +written a discharge for the fifteen men present, I wrote upon each paper +the word "mutineer" above my signature. None of them being able to read, +and this being written in English, they unconsciously carried the +evidence of their own guilt, which I resolved to punish should I ever +find them on my return to Khartoum. + +Thus disarmed, they immediately joined other of the traders' parties. +These fifteen men were the "Jalyns" of my party, the remainder being +Dongolowas: both Arabs of the Nile, north of Khartoum. The Dongolowas +had not appeared when summoned by the drum, and my vakeel being of their +nation, I impressed upon him his responsibility for the mutiny, and that +he would end his days in prison at Khartoum should my expedition fail. + +The boy Saat and Richarn now assured me that the men had intended to +fire at me, but that they were frightened at seeing us thus prepared, +but that I must not expect one man of the Dongolowas to be any more +faithful than the Jalyns. I ordered the vakeel to hunt up the men, and +to bring me their guns, threatening that if they refused I would shoot +any man that I found with one of my guns in his hands. + +There was no time for mild measures. I had only Saat (a mere child), and +Richarn, upon whom I could depend; and I resolved with them alone to +accompany Mahommed's people to the interior, and to trust to good +fortune for a chance of proceeding. + +I was feverish and ill with worry and anxiety, and I was lying down upon +my mat, when I suddenly heard guns firing in all directions, drums +beating, and the customary signs of either an arrival or departure of a +trading party. Presently a messenger arrived from Koorshid Aga, the +Circassian, to announce the departure of Mahommed's party without me; +and my vakeel appeared with a message from the same people, that "if I +followed on their road (my proposed route), they would fire upon me and +my party, as they would allow no English spies in their country." + +My vakeel must have known of this preconcerted arrangement. I now went +to the Circassian, Koorshid, who had always been friendly personally. In +an interview with him, I made him understand that nothing should drive +me back to Khartoum, but that, as I was now helpless, I begged him to +give me ten elephant-hunters; that I would pay one-half of their wages, +and amuse myself in hunting and exploring in any direction until the +following year, he to take the ivory; by which time I could receive +thirty black soldiers from Khartoum, with whom I should commence my +journey to the lake. I begged him to procure me thirty good blacks at +Khartoum, and to bring them with him to Gondokoro next season, where I +arranged to meet him. This he agreed to, and I returned to my tent +delighted at a chance of escaping complete failure, although I thus +encountered a delay of twelve months before I could commence my +legitimate voyage. That accomplished, I was comparatively happy; the +disgrace of returning to Khartoum beaten would have been insupportable. + +That night I slept well, and we sat under our shady tree by the +tent-door at sunrise on the following morning, drinking our coffee with +contentment. Presently, from a distance, I saw Koorshid, the Circassian, +approaching with his partner. Coffee and pipes were ready instanter: +both the boy Saat and Richarn looked upon him as a friend and ally, as +it was arranged that ten of his hunters were to accompany us. Before he +sipped his coffee he took me by the hand, and with great confusion of +manner he confessed that he was ashamed to come and visit me. "The +moment you left me yesterday," said he, "I called my vakeel and headman, +and ordered them to select the ten best men of my party to accompany +you; but instead of obeying me as usual, they declared that nothing +would induce them to serve under you; that you were a spy who would +report their proceedings to the Government, and that they should all be +ruined; that you were not only a spy on the slave-trade, but that you +were a madman, who would lead them into distant and unknown countries, +where both you and your wife and they would all be murdered by the +natives; thus they would mutiny immediately, should you be forced upon +them." My last hope was gone. Of course I thanked Koorshid for his +good-will, and explained that I should not think of intruding myself +upon his party, but that at the same time they should not drive me out +of the country. I had abundance of stores and ammunition, and now that +my men had deserted me, I had sufficient corn to supply my small party +for twelve months; I had also a quantity of garden-seeds, that I had +brought with me in the event of becoming a prisoner in the country; I +should therefore make a zareeba or camp at Gondokoro, and remain there +until I should receive men and supplies in the following season. I now +felt independent, having preserved my depot of corn. I was at least +proof against famine for twelve months. Koorshid endeavoured to persuade +me that my party of only a man and a boy would be certainly insulted and +attacked by the insolent natives of the Bari tribe should I remain alone +at Gondokoro after the departure of the traders' parties. I told him +that I preferred the natives to the traders' people, and that I was +resolved; I merely begged him to lend me one of his little slave boys as +an interpreter, as I had no means of communicating with the natives. +This he promised to do. + +After Koorshid's departure, we sat silently for some minutes, both my +wife and I occupied by the same thoughts. + +No expedition had ever been more carefully planned; everything had been +well arranged to insure success. My transport animals were in good +condition; their saddles and pads had been made under my own inspection; +my arms, ammunition, and supplies were abundant, and I was ready to +march at five minutes' notice to any part of Africa; but the expedition, +so costly, and so carefully organized, was completely ruined by the very +people whom I had engaged to protect it. They had not only deserted, but +they had conspired to murder. There was no law in these wild regions but +brute force; human life was of no value; murder was a pastime, as the +murderer could escape all punishment. Mr. Petherick's vakeel had just +been shot dead by one of his own men, and such events were too common to +create much attention. We were utterly helpless; the whole of the people +against us, and openly threatening. For myself personally I had no +anxiety, but the fact of Mrs. Baker being with me was my greatest care. +I dared not think of her position in the event of my death amongst such +savages as those around her. These thoughts were shared by her; but she, +knowing that I had resolved to succeed, never once hinted an advice for +retreat. + +Richarn was as faithful as Saat, and I accordingly confided in him my +resolution to leave all my baggage in charge of a friendly chief of the +Bari's at Gondokoro, and to take two fast dromedaries for him and Saat, +and two horses for Mrs. Baker and myself, and to make a push through the +hostile tribe for three days, to arrive among friendly people at "Moir," +from which place I trusted to fortune. I arranged that the dromedaries +should carry a few beads, ammunition, and the astronomical instruments. +Richarn said the idea was very mad; that the natives would do nothing +for beads; that he had had great experience on the White Nile when with +a former master, and that the natives would do nothing without receiving +cows as payment; that it was of no use being good to them, as they had +no respect for any virtue but "force;" that we should most likely be +murdered; but that if I ordered him to go, he was ready to obey. + +"Master, go on, and I will follow thee, To the last gasp, with truth and +loyalty." + +I was delighted with Richarn's rough and frank fidelity. Ordering the +horses to be brought, I carefully pared their feet--their hard flinty +hoofs, that had never felt a shoe, were in excellent order for a gallop, +if necessary. All being ready, I sent for the chief of Gondokoro. +Meanwhile a Bari boy arrived from Koorshid to act as my interpreter. + +The Bari chief was, as usual, smeared all over with red ochre and fat, +and had the shell of a small land tortoise suspended to his elbow as an +ornament. He brought me a large jar of merissa (native beer), and said +"he had been anxious to see the white man who did not steal cattle, +neither kidnap slaves, but that I should do no good in that country, as +the traders did not wish me to remain." He told me "that all people were +bad, both natives and traders, and that force was necessary in this +country." I tried to discover whether he had any respect for good and +upright conduct. "Yes," he said; "all people say that you are different +to the Turks and traders, but that character will not help you; it is +all very good and very right, but you see your men have all deserted, +thus you must go back to Khartoum; you can do nothing here without +plenty of men and guns." I proposed to him my plan of riding quickly +through the Bari tribe to Moir; he replied, "Impossible! If I were to +beat the great nogaras (drums), and call my people together to explain +who you were, they would not hurt you; but there are many petty chiefs +who do not obey me, and their people would certainly attack you when +crossing some swollen torrent, and what could you do with only a man and +a boy?" + +His reply to my question concerning the value of beads corroborated +Richarn's statement; nothing could be purchased for anything but cattle; +the traders had commenced the system of stealing herds of cattle from +one tribe to barter with the next neighbour; thus the entire country was +in anarchy and confusion, and beads were of no value. My plan for a dash +through the country was impracticable. + +I therefore called my vakeel, and threatened him with the gravest +punishment on my return to Khartoum. I wrote to Sir R. Colquhoun, H.M. +Consul-General for Egypt, which letter I sent by one of the return +boats; and I explained to my vakeel that the complaint to the British +authorities would end in his imprisonment, and that in case of my death +through violence he would assuredly be hanged. After frightening him +thoroughly, I suggested that he should induce some of the mutineers, who +were Dongolowas (his own tribe), many of whom were his relatives, to +accompany me, in which case I would forgive them their past misconduct. + +In the course of the afternoon he returned with the news, that he had +arranged with seventeen of the men, but that they refused to march +towards the south, and would accompany me to the east if I wished to +explore that part of the country. Their plea for refusing a southern +route was the hostility of the Bari tribe. They also proposed a +condition, that I should "leave all my transport animals and baggage +behind me." + +To this insane request, which completely nullified their offer to start, +I only replied by vowing vengeance against the vakeel. + +Their time was passed in vociferously quarrelling among themselves +during the day, and in close conference with the vakeel during the +night, the substance of which was reported on the following morning by +the faithful Saat. The boy recounted their plot. They agreed to march to +the east, with the intention of deserting me at the station of a trader +named Chenooda, seven days' march from Gondokoro, in the Latooka +country, whose men were, like them selves, Dongolowas; they had +conspired to mutiny at that place, and to desert to the slave-hunting +party with my arms and ammunition, and to shoot me should I attempt to +disarm them. They also threatened to shoot my vakeel, who now, through +fear of punishment at Khartoum, exerted his influence to induce them to +start. Altogether, it was a pleasant state of things. + +That night I was asleep in my tent, when I was suddenly awoke by loud +screams, and upon listening attentively I distinctly heard the heavy +breathing of something in the tent, and I could distinguish a dark +object crouching close to the head of my bed. A slight pull at my sleeve +showed me that my wife also noticed the object, as this was always the +signal that she made if anything occured at night that required +vigilance. Possessing a share of sangfroid admirably adapted for African +travel, Mrs. Baker was not a screamer, and never even whispered; in the +moment of suspected danger, a touch of my sleeve was considered a +sufficient warning. My hand had quietly drawn the revolver from under my +pillow and noiselessly pointed it within two feet of the dark crouching +object, before I asked, "Who is that?" No answer was given--until, +upon repeating the question, with my finger touching gently upon the +trigger ready to fire, a voice replied, "Fadeela." Never had I been so +near to a fatal shot! It was one of the black women of the party, who +had crept into the tent for an asylum. Upon striking a light I found +that the woman was streaming with blood, being cut in the most frightful +manner with the coorbatch (whip of hippopotamus' hide). Hearing the +screams continued at some distance from the tent, I found my angels in +the act of flogging two women; two men were holding each woman upon the +ground by sitting upon her legs and neck, while two men with powerful +whips operated upon each woman alternately. Their backs were cut to +pieces, and they were literally covered with blood. The brutes had taken +upon themselves the task of thus punishing the women for a breach of +discipline in being absent without leave. Fadeela had escaped before her +punishment had been completed, and narrowly escaped being shot by +running to the tent without giving warning. Seizing the coorbatch from +the hands of one of the executioners, I administered them a dose of +their own prescription, to their intense astonishment, as they did not +appear conscious of any outrage;--"they were only slave women." In all +such expeditions it is necessary to have women belonging to the party to +grind the corn and prepare the food for the men; I had accordingly hired +several from their proprietors at Khartoum, and these had been +maltreated as described. + +I was determined at all hazards to start from Gondokoro for the +interior. From long experience with natives of wild countries, I did not +despair of obtaining an influence over my men, however bad, could I once +quit Gondokoro, and lead them among the wild and generally hostile +tribes of the country; they would then be separated from the contagion +of the slave-hunting parties, and would feel themselves dependent upon +me for guidance. Accordingly I professed to believe in their promises to +accompany me to the east, although I knew of their conspiracy; and I +trusted that by tact and good management I should eventually thwart all +their plans, and, although forced out of my intended course, I should be +able to alter my route, and to work round from the east to my original +plan of operations south. The interpreter given by Koorshid Aga had +absconded: this was a great loss, as I had no means of communication +with the natives except by casually engaging a Bari in the employment of +the traders, to whom I was obliged to pay exorbitantly in copper +bracelets for a few minutes' conversation. + +A party of Koorshid's people had just arrived with ivory from the +Latooka country, bringing with them a number of that tribe as porters. +These people were the most extraordinary that I had seen--wearing +beautiful helmets of glass beads, and being remarkably handsome. The +chief of the party, "Adda," came to my tent, accompanied by a few of his +men. He was one of the finest men I ever saw, and he gave me much +information concerning his country, and begged me to pay him a visit. He +detested the Turks, but he was obliged to serve them, as he had received +orders from the great chief "Commoro" to collect porters, and to +transport their ivory from Latooka to Gondokoro. I took his portrait, to +his great delight, and made him a variety of presents of copper +bracelets, beads, and a red cotton handkerchief; the latter was most +prized, and he insisted upon wearing it upon his person. He had no +intention of wearing his new acquisition for the purpose of decency, but +he carefully folded it so as to form a triangle, and then tied it round +his waist, so that the pointed end should hang exactly straight BEHIND +him. So particular was he, that he was quite half an hour in arranging +this simple appendage; and at length he departed with his people, always +endeavouring to admire his new finery, by straining his neck in his +attempts to look behind him. + +From morning till night natives of all ranks surrounded the tent to ask +for presents; these being generally granted, as it was highly necessary +to create a favourable impression. Koorshid's party, who had arrived +from Latooka, were to return shortly, but they not only refused to allow +me to accompany them, but they declared their intention of forcibly +repelling me, should I attempt to advance by their route. This was a +grand excuse for my men, who once more refused to proceed. By pressure +upon the vakeel they again yielded, but on condition that I would take +one of the mutineers named "Bellaal," who wished to join them, but whose +offer I had refused, as he had been a notorious ringleader in every +mutiny. It was a sine qua non that he was to go; and knowing the +character of the man, I felt convinced that it had been arranged that he +should head the mutiny conspired to be enacted upon our arrival at +Chenooda's camp in the Latooka country. The vakeel of Chenooda, one +Mahommed Her, was in constant communication with my men, which tended to +confirm the reports I had heard from the boy Saat. This Mahommed Her +started from Gondokoro for Latooka. Koorshid's men would start two days +later; these were rival parties, both antagonistic, but occupying the +same country, the Latooka; both equally hostile to me, but as the party +of Mahommed Her were Dongolowas, and that of Koorshid were Jalyns and +Soodanes, I trusted eventually to turn their disputes to my own +advantage. + +The plan that I had arranged was to leave all the baggage not +indispensable with Koorshid Aga at Gondokoro, who would return it to +Khartoum. I intended to wait until Koorshid's party should march, when I +resolved to follow them, as I did not believe they would dare to oppose +me by force, their master himself being friendly. I considered their +threats as mere idle boasting, to frighten me from an attempt to follow +them; but there was another more serious cause of danger to be +apprehended. + +On the route, between Gondokoro and Latooka, there was a powerful tribe +among the mountains of Ellyria. The chief of that tribe (Legge) had +formerly massacred a hundred and twenty of a trader's party. He was an +ally of Koorshid's people, who declared that they would raise the tribe +against me, which would end in the defeat or massacre of my party. There +was a difficult pass through the mountains of Ellyria, which it would be +impossible to force; thus my small party of seventeen men would be +helpless. It would be merely necessary for the traders to request the +chief of Ellyria to attack my party to insure its destruction, as the +plunder of the baggage would be an ample reward. + +There was no time for deliberation. Both the present and the future +looked as gloomy as could be imagined; but I had always expected +extraordinary difficulties, and they were, if possible, to be +surmounted. It was useless to speculate upon chances; there was no hope +of success in inaction; and the only resource was to drive through all +obstacles without calculating the risk. + +Once away from Gondokoro we should be fairly launched on our voyage, the +boats would have returned to Khartoum, thus retreat would be cut off; it +only remained to push forward, trusting in Providence and good fortune. +I had great faith in presents. The Arabs are all venal; and, having many +valuable effects with me, I trusted, when the proper moment should +arrive, to be able to overcome all opposition by an open hand. The day +arrived for the departure of Koorshid's people. They commenced firing +their usual signals; the drums beat; the Turkish ensign led the way; and +they marched at 2 o'clock P.M., sending a polite message, "daring" me to +follow them. + +I immediately ordered the tent to be struck, the luggage to be arranged, +the animals to be collected, and everything to be ready for the march. +Richarn and Saat were in high spirits, even my unwilling men were +obliged to work, and by 7 P.M. we were all ready. The camels were too +heavily loaded, carrying about seven hundred pounds each. The donkeys +were also overloaded, but there was no help for it. Mrs. Baker was well +mounted on my good old Abyssinian hunter "Tetel," ("Hartebeest") and +was carrying several leather bags slung to the pommel, while I was +equally loaded on my horse "Filfil;" ("Pepper") in fact, we were all +carrying as much as we could stow. + +We had neither guide, nor interpreter. Not one native was procurable, +all being under the influence of the traders, who had determined to +render our advance utterly impossible by preventing the natives from +assisting us. All had been threatened, and we, perfectly helpless, +commenced the desperate journey in darkness about an hour after sunset. + +"Where shall we go?" said the men, just as the order was given to start. +"Who can travel without a guide? No one knows the road." The moon was +up, and the mountain of Belignan was distinctly visible about nine miles +distant. Knowing that the route lay on the east side of that mountain, I +led the way, Mrs. Baker riding by my side, and the British flag +following close behind us as a guide for the caravan of heavily laden +camels and donkeys. We shook hands warmly with Dr. Murie, who had come +to see us off, and thus we started on our march in Central Africa on the +26th of March, 1863. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +FIRST NIGHT'S MARCH. + +THE country was park-like, but much parched by the dry weather. The +ground was sandy, but firm, and interspersed with numerous villages, all +of which were surrounded with a strong fence of euphorbia. The country +was well wooded, being free from bush or jungle, but numerous trees, all +evergreens, were scattered over the landscape. No natives were to be +seen, but the sound of their drums and singing in chorus was heard in +the far distance. Whenever it is moonlight the nights are passed in +singing and dancing, beating drums, blowing horns, and the population of +whole villages thus congregate together. + +After a silent march of two hours we saw watch-fires blazing in the +distance, and upon nearer approach we perceived the trader's party +bivouacked. Their custom is to march only two or three hours on the +first day of departure, to allow stragglers who may have lagged behind +in Gondokoro to rejoin the party before morning. + +We were roughly challenged by their sentries as we passed, and were +instantly told "not to remain in their neighbourhood." Accordingly we +passed on for about half a mile in advance, and bivouacked on some +rising ground above a slight hollow in which we found water. All were +busy collecting firewood and cutting grass for the donkeys and horses +who were picketed near the fires. The camels were hobbled, and turned to +graze upon the branches of a large mimosa. We were not hungry; the +constant anxiety had entirely destroyed all appetite. A cup of strong +black coffee was the greatest luxury, and not requiring a tent in the +clear still night, we were soon asleep on our simple angareps. Before +daylight on the following morning the drum beat; the lazy soldiers, +after stretching and yawning, began to load the animals, and we started +at six o'clock. In these climates the rising of the sun is always +dreaded. For about an hour before sunrise the air is deliciously cool +and invigorating, but the sun is regarded as the common enemy. There is, +nevertheless, a difficulty in starting before sunrise-the animals cannot +be properly loaded in the darkness, and the operation being tedious, the +cool hour of morning is always lost. The morning was clear, and the +mountain of Belignan, within three or four miles, was a fine object to +direct our course. I could distinctly see some enormous trees at the +foot of the mountain near a village, and I hastened forward, as I hoped +to procure a guide who would also act as interpreter, many of the +natives in the vicinity of Gondokoro having learnt a little Arabic from +the traders. We cantered on ahead of the party, regardless of the +assurance of our unwilling men that the natives were not to be trusted, +and we soon arrived beneath the shade of a cluster of most superb trees. +The village was within a quarter of a mile, situated at the very base of +the abrupt mountain; the natives seeing us alone had no fear, and soon +thronged around us. + +The chief understood a few words of Arabic, and I offered a large +payment of copper bracelets and beads for a guide. After much discussion +and bargaining, a bad-looking fellow offered to guide us to Ellyria, but +no farther. This was about twenty-eight or thirty miles distant, and it +was of vital importance that we should pass through that tribe before +the trader's party should raise them against us. I had great hopes of +outmarching them, as they would be delayed in Belignan by ivory +transactions with the chief. While negotiations were pending with the +guide, the trader's party appeared in the distance, and avoiding us, +they halted on the opposite side of the village. I now tried +conciliatory measures, and I sent my vakeel to their headman Ibrahim to +talk with him confidentially, and to try to obtain an interpreter in +return for a large present. + +My vakeel was in an awkward position--he was afraid of me; also +mortally afraid of the government in Khartoum; and frightened out of his +life at his own men, whose conspiracy to desert he was well aware of. +With the cunning of an Arab he started on his mission, accompanied by +several of the men, including the arch-mutineer Bellaal. He shortly +returned, saying, "that it was perfectly impossible to proceed to the +interior; that Ibrahim's party were outrageous at my having followed on +their route; that he would neither give an interpreter, nor allow any of +the natives to serve me; and that he would give orders to the great +chief of Ellyria to prevent me from passing through his country." At +that time the Turks were engaged in business transactions with the +natives; it therefore was all important that I should start immediately, +and by a forced march arrive at Ellyria, and get through the pass, +before they should communicate with the chief. I had no doubt that, by +paying black mail, I should be able to clear Ellyria, provided I was in +advance of the Turks, but should they outmarch me there would be no +hope; a fight and defeat would be the climax. I accordingly gave orders +for an IMMEDIATE start. "Load the camels, my brothers!" I exclaimed, to +the sullen ruffians around me; but not a man stirred except Richarn and +a fellow named Sali, who began to show signs of improvement. Seeing that +the men intended to disobey, I immediately set to work myself loading +the animals, requesting my men not to trouble themselves, and begging +them to lie down and smoke their pipes while I did the work. A few rose +from the ground ashamed, and assisted to load the camels, while the +others declared the impossibility of camels travelling by the road we +were about to take, as the Turks had informed them that not even the +donkeys could march through the thick jungles between Belignan and +Ellyria. + +"All right, my brothers!" I replied; "then we'll march as far as the +donkeys can go, and leave both them and the baggage on the road when +they can go no farther; but I GO FORWARD." + +With sullen discontent the men began to strap on their belts and +cartouche boxes, and prepare for the start. The animals were loaded, and +we moved slowly forward at 4.30 P.M. The country was lovely. The +mountain of Belignan, although not exceeding 1,200 feet, is a fine mass +of gneiss and syenite, ornamented in the hollows with fine trees, while +the general appearance of the country at the base was that of a +beautiful English park well timbered and beautified with distant +mountains. We had just started with the Bari guide that I had engaged at +Belignan, when we were suddenly joined by two of the Latookas whom I had +seen when at Gondokoro, and to whom I had been very civil. It appeared +that these fellows, who were acting as porters to the Turks, had been +beaten, and had therefore absconded and joined me. This was +extraordinary good fortune, as I now had guides the whole way to +Latooka, about ninety miles distant. I immediately gave them each a +copper bracelet and some beads, and they very good-naturedly relieved +the camels of one hundred pounds of copper rings, which they carried in +two baskets on their heads. + +We now crossed the broad dry bed of a torrent, and the banks being +steep, a considerable time was occupied in assisting the loaded animals +in their descent. The donkeys were easily aided, their tails being held +by two men, while they shuffled and slid down the sandy banks; but every +camel fell, and the loads had to be carried up the opposite bank by the +men, and the camels to be reloaded on arrival. Here again the donkeys +had the advantage, as without being unloaded they were assisted up the +steep ascent by two men in front pulling at their ears, while others +pushed behind. Altogether, the donkeys were far more suitable for the +country, as they were more easily loaded. I had arranged their packs and +saddles so well, that they carried their loads with the greatest +comfort. Each animal had an immense pad well stuffed with goats' hair; +this reached from the shoulder to the hip-bones; upon this rested a +simple form of saddle made of two forks of boughs inverted, and fastened +together with rails--there were no nails in these saddles, all the +fastenings being secured with thongs of raw hide. The great pad, +projecting far both in front, behind, and also below the side of the +saddle, prevented the loads from chafing the animal. Every donkey +carried two large bags made of the hides of antelopes that I had +formerly shot on the frontier of Abyssinia, and these were arranged with +taggles on the one to fit into loops on the other, so that the loading +and unloading was exceedingly simple. The success of an expedition +depends mainly upon the perfection of the details, and where animals are +employed for transport, the first consideration should be bestowed upon +saddles and packs. The facility of loading is all important, and I now +had an exemplification of its effect upon both animals and men; the +latter began to abuse the camels and to curse the father of this, and +the mother of that, because they had the trouble of unloading them for +the descent into the river's bed, while the donkeys were blessed with +the endearing name of "my brother," and alternately whacked with the +stick. It was rather a bad commencement of a forced march, and the +ravine we had crossed had been a cause of serious delay. Hardly were the +animals reloaded and again ready for the march, when the men remembered +that they had only one waterskin full. I had given orders before the +start from Belignan that all should be filled. This is the unexceptional +rule in African travelling--"fill your girbas before starting." Never +mind what the natives may tell you concerning the existence of water on +the road; believe nothing; but resolutely determine to fill the girbas +--should you find water, there is no harm done if you are already +provided: but nothing can exceed the improvidence of the people. To +avoid the trouble of filling the girbas before starting, the men will +content themselves with "Inshallah (please God), we shall find water on +the road," and they frequently endure the greatest suffering from sheer +idleness in neglecting a supply. + +They had in this instance persuaded themselves that the river we had +just crossed would not be dry. Several of them had been employed in this +country formerly, and because they had at one time found water in the +sandy bed, they had concluded that it existed still. Accordingly they +now wished to send parties to seek for water; this would entail a +further delay, at a time when every minute was precious, as our fate +depended upon reaching and passing through Ellyria before the arrival of +the Turks. I was very anxious, and determined not to allow a moment's +hesitation; I therefore insisted upon an immediate advance, and resolved +to march without stopping throughout the night. The Latooka guides +explained by signs that if we marched all night we should arrive at +water on the following morning. This satisfied the men; and we started. +For some miles we passed through a magnificent forest of large trees: +the path being remarkably good, the march looked propitious--this good +fortune, however, was doomed to change. We shortly entered upon thick +thorny jungles; the path was so overgrown that the camels could scarcely +pass under the overhanging branches, and the leather bags of provisions +piled upon their backs were soon ripped by the hooked thorns of the +mimosa--the salt, rice, and coffee bags all sprang leaks, and small +streams of these important stores issued from the rents, which the men +attempted to repair by stuffing dirty rags into the holes. These thorns +were shaped like fish-hooks, thus it appeared that the perishable +baggage must soon become an utter wreck, as the great strength and +weight of the camels bore all before them, and sometimes tore the +branches from the trees, the thorns becoming fixed in the leather bags. +Meanwhile the donkeys walked along in comfort, being so short that they +and their loads were below the branches. + +I dreaded the approach of night. We were now at the foot of a range of +high rocky hills, from which the torrents during the rainy season had +torn countless ravines in their passage through the lower ground; we +were marching parallel to the range at the very base, thus we met every +ravine at right angles. Down tumbled a camel; and away rolled his load +of bags, pots, pans, boxes, &c. into the bottom of a ravine in a +confused ruin.--Halt! . . and the camel had to be raised and helped up +the opposite bank, while the late avalanche of luggage was carried +piecemeal after him to be again adjusted. To avoid a similar catastrophe +the remaining three camels had to be UNLOADED, and reloaded when safe +upon the opposite bank. The operation of loading a camel with about 700 +lbs. of luggage of indescribable variety is at all times tedious; but no +sooner had we crossed one ravine with difficulty than we arrived at +another, and the same fatiguing operation had to be repeated, with +frightful loss of time at the moment when I believed the Turks were +following on our path. + +My wife and I rode about a quarter of a mile at the head of the party as +an advance guard, to warn the caravan of any difficulty. The very nature +of the country declared that it must be full of ravines, and yet I could +not help hoping against hope that we might have a clear mile of road +without a break. The evening had passed, and the light faded. What had +been difficult and tedious during the day, now became most serious;-- +we could not see the branches of hooked thorns that overhung the broken +path; I rode in advance, my face and arms bleeding with countless +scratches, while at each rip of a thorn I gave a warning shout-- +"Thorn!" for those behind, and a cry of "Hole!" for any deep rut that +lay in the path. It was fortunately moonlight, but the jungle was so +thick that the narrow track was barely perceptible; thus both camels and +donkeys ran against the trunks of trees, smashing the luggage, and +breaking all that could be broken; nevertheless, the case was urgent; +march we must, at all hazards. + +My heart sank whenever we came to a deep ravine, or Hor; the warning cry +of "halt" told those in the rear that once more the camels must be +unloaded, and the same fatiguing operation must be repeated. For hours +we marched: the moon was sinking; the path, already dark, grew darker; +the animals, overloaded even for a good road, were tired out; and the +men were disheartened, thirsty, and disgusted. I dismounted from my +horse and loaded him with sacks, to relieve a camel that was perfectly +done--but on we marched. Every one was silent; the men were too tired +to speak; and through the increasing gloom we crept slowly forward +Suddenly another ravine, but not so deep; and we trusted that the camels +might cross it without the necessity of unloading; down went the leading +camel, rolling completely over with his load to the bottom. Now, the boy +Saat was the drummer; but being very tired, he had come to the +conclusion that the drum would travel quite as easily upon a camel's +back as upon his shoulders; he had accordingly slung it upon the very +camel that had now performed a somersault and solo on the drum. The +musical instrument was picked up in the shape of a flat dish, and +existed no longer as a drum, every note having been squeezed out of it. +The donkey is a much more calculating animal than the camel, the latter +being an excessively stupid beast, while the former is remarkably clever +--at least I can answer for the ability of the Egyptian species. The +expression "what an ass!" is in Europe supposed to be slightly +insulting, but a comparison with the Egyptian variety would be a +compliment. Accordingly my train of donkeys, being calculating and +reasoning creatures, had from thus night's experience come to the +conclusion that the journey was long; that the road was full of ravines; +that the camels who led the way would assuredly tumble into these +ravines unless unloaded; and that as the reloading at each ravine would +occupy at least half an hour, it would be wise for them (the donkeys) to +employ that time in going to sleep--therefore, as it was just as cheap +to lie down as to stand, they preferred a recumbent posture, and a +refreshing roll upon the sandy ground. Accordingly, whenever the word +"halt" was given, the clever donkeys thoroughly understood their +advantage, and the act of unloading a camel on arrival at a ravine was a +signal sufficient to induce each of twenty-one donkeys to lie down. It +was in vain that the men beat and swore at them to keep them on their +legs; the donkeys were determined, and lie down they would. This +obstinacy on their part was serious to the march--every time that they +lay down they shifted their loads; some of the most wilful (sic) +persisted in rolling, and of course upset their packs. There were only +seventeen men, and these were engaged in assisting the camels; thus the +twenty-one donkeys had it all their own way; and what added to the +confusion was the sudden cry of hyenas in close proximity, which so +frightened the donkeys that they immediately sprang to their feet, with +their packs lying discomfited, entangled among their legs. Thus, no +sooner were the camels reloaded on the other side of the ravine, than +all the donkeys had to undergo the same operation; during which time the +camels, however stupid, having observed the donkeys' "dodge," took the +opportunity of lying down also, and necessarily shifted their loads. The +women were therefore ordered to hold the camels, to prevent them from +lying down while the donkeys were being reloaded; but the women were +dead tired, as they had been carrying loads; they themselves laid down, +and it being dark, they were not observed until a tremendous scream was +heard, and we found that a camel had lain down on the TOP OF A WOMAN who +had been placed to watch it, but who had herself fallen asleep. The +camel was with difficulty raised, and the woman dragged from beneath. +Everything was tired out. I had been working like a slave to assist, and +to cheer the men; I was also fatigued. We had marched from 4.30 P.M.-- +it was now 1 A.M.; we had thus been eight hours and a half struggling +along the path. The moon had sunk, and the complete darkness rendered a +further advance impossible; I therefore, on arrival at a large plateau +of rock, ordered the animals to be unloaded, and both man and beast to +rest. The people had no water; I had a girba full for Mrs. Baker and +myself, which was always slung on my saddle; this precaution I never +neglected. + +The men were hungry. Before leaving Gondokoro I had ordered a large +quantity of kisras (black pancakes) to be prepared for the march, and +they were packed in a basket that had been carried on a camel; +unfortunately Mrs. Baker's pet monkey had been placed upon the same +camel, and he had amused himself during the night's march by feasting +and filling his cheeks with the kisras, and _throwing the remainder +away_ when his hunger was satisfied. There literally was not a kisra +remaining in the basket. + +Every one lay down supperless to sleep. Although tired, I could not rest +until I had arranged some plan for the morrow. It was evident that we +could not travel over so rough a country with the animals thus +overloaded; therefore determined to leave in the jungle such articles as +could be dispensed with, and to rearrange all the loads. + +At 4 A.M. I woke, and lighting a lamp, I tried in vain to wake any of +the men who lay stretched upon the ground, like so many corpses, sound +asleep. At length Saat sat up, and after rubbing his eyes for about ten +minutes, he made a fire, and began to boil the coffee; meanwhile I was +hard at work lightening the ship. I threw away about 100 lbs. of salt; +divided the heavy ammunition more equally among the animals; rejected a +quantity of odds and ends that, although most useful, could be forsaken; +and by the time the men woke, a little before sunrise, I had completed +the work. We now reloaded the animals, who showed the improvement by +stepping out briskly. We marched well for three hours at a pace that bid +fair to keep us well ahead of the Turks, and at length we reached the +dry bed of a stream, where the Latooka guides assured us we should +obtain water by digging. This proved correct; but the holes were dug +deep in several places, and hours passed before we could secure a +sufficient supply for all the men and animals. The great sponging-bath +was excessively useful, as it formed a reservoir out of which all the +animals could drink. + +While we were thus engaged some natives appeared carrying with them the +head of a wild boar in a horrible state of decomposition, and alive with +maggots. On arrival at the drinking-place they immediately lighted a +fire, and proceeded to cook their savoury pork by placing it in the +flames. The skull becoming too hot for the inmates, crowds of maggots +rushed pele-mele from the ears and nostrils like people escaping from +the doors of a theatre on fire. The natives merely tapped the skull with +a stick to assist in their exit, and proceeded with their cooking until +completed; after which they ate the whole, and sucked the bones. However +putrid meat may be, it does not appear to affect the health of these +people. + +My animals requiring rest and food, I was obliged to wait unwillingly +until 4.30 P.M. The natives having finished their boar's head, offered +to join us; and accordingly we rode on a considerable distance ahead of +our people with our active guides, while the caravan followed slowly +behind us. After ascending for about a mile through jungle, we suddenly +emerged upon an eminence, and looked down upon the valley of Tollogo. +This was extremely picturesque. An abrupt wall of grey granite rose on +the east side of the valley to a height of about a thousand feet: from +this perpendicular wall huge blocks had fallen, strewing the base with a +confused mass of granite lumps ten to forty feet in diameter; and among +these natural fortresses of disjointed masses were numerous villages. +The bottom of the valley was a meadow, in which grew several enormous +fig trees by the side of a sluggish, and in some places stagnant, brook. +The valley was not more than half a mile wide, and was also walled in by +mountains on the west, having the appearance of a vast street. + +We were now about a mile ahead of our party; but accompanied by our two +Latooka guides, and upon descending to the valley and crossing a deep +gully, we soon arrived beneath a large fig tree at the extremity of the +vale. No sooner was our presence observed than crowds of natives issued +from the numerous villages among the rocks, and surrounded us. They were +all armed with bows and arrows and lances, and were very excited at +seeing the horses, which to them were unknown animals. Dismounting, I +fastened the horses to a bush, and we sat down on the grass under a +tree. + +There were five or six hundred natives pressing round us. They were +excessively noisy, hallooing to us as though we were deaf, simply +because we did not understand them. Finding that they were pressing +rudely around us, I made signs to them to stand off; when at that moment +a curiously ugly, short, humped-back fellow came forward and addressed +me in broken Arabic. I was delighted to find an interpreter, and +requesting him to tell the crowd to stand back, I inquired for their +chief. The humpback spoke very little Arabic, nor did the crowd appear +to heed him, but they immediately stole a spear that one of my Latooka +guides had placed against the tree under which we were sitting. It was +getting rather unpleasant; but having my revolver and a double-barrelled +rifle in my hands, there was no fear of their being stolen. + +In reply to a question to the humpback, he asked me "Who I was?" I +explained that I was a traveller. "You want ivory?" he said. "No," I +answered, "it is of no use to me." "Ah, you want slaves!" he replied. +"Neither do I want slaves," I answered. This was followed by a burst of +laughter from the crowd, and the humpback continued his examination. +"Have you got plenty of cows?" "Not one; but plenty of beads and +copper." "Plenty? Where are they?" "Not far off; they will be here +presently with my men;" and I pointed to the direction from which they +would arrive. "What countryman are you?" "An Englishman." He had never +heard of such people. "You are a Turk?" "All right," I replied; "I am +anything you like." "And that is your son?" (pointing at Mrs. Baker.) +"No, she is my wife." "Your wife! What a lie! He is a boy." "Not a bit +of it," I replied; "she is my wife, who has come with me to see the +women of this country." "What a lie!" he again politely re joined in the +one expressive Arabic word, "Katab." After this charmingly frank +conversation he addressed the crowd, explaining, I suppose, that I was +endeavouring to pass off a boy for a woman. Mrs. Baker was dressed +similarly to myself, in a pair of loose trowsers and gaiters, with a +blouse and belt--the only difference being that she wore long sleeves, +while my arms were bare from a few inches below the shoulder. I always +kept my arms bare, as being cooler than if covered. + +The curiosity of the crowd was becoming impertinent, when at an +opportune moment the chief appeared. To my astonishment I recognised him +as a man who had often visited me at Gondokoro, to whom I had given many +presents without knowing his position. + +In a few moments he drove away the crowd, screaming and gesticulating at +there as though greatly insulted; re serving the humpback as +interpreter, he apologized for the rudeness of his people. Just at this +instant I perceived, in the distance, the English flag leading the +caravan of camels and donkeys from the hillside into the valley, and my +people and baggage shortly arrived. The chief now brought me a large +pumpkin-shell containing about a gallon of merissa, or native beer, +which was most refreshing. He also brought a gourd-bottle full of honey, +and an elephant's tusk; the latter I declined, as ivory was not +required. + +We were now within six miles of Ellyria, and by means of the humpback I +explained to Tombe, the chief, that we wished to start the first thing +in the morning, and that I would engage the humpback as interpreter. +This was agreed upon, and I now had hopes of getting through Ellyria +before the arrival of the Turks. My caravan having arrived, the interest +first bestowed upon the horses, as being a new kind of animal, was now +transferred to the camels. The natives crowded round them, exclaiming, +"that they were the giraffes of our country." They were amazed at the +loads that they carried, and many assisted in unloading. + +I noticed, however, that they stuck their fingers through the baskets to +investigate the contents; and when they perceived twenty baskets full of +beads, and many of copper bracelets--the jingling of which betrayed +the contents--they became rather too eager in lending a helping hand; +therefore I told the chief to order his men to retire while I opened one +bag of beads to give him a present. I had a bag always in reserve that +contained a variety of beads and bracelets, which obviated the necessity +of opening one of the large baskets on the road. I accordingly made the +chief happy, and also gave a present to the humpback. The crowd now +discovered an object of fresh interest, and a sudden rush was made to +the monkey, which, being one of the red variety from Abyssinia, was +quite unknown to them. The monkey, being far more civilized than these +naked savages, did not at all enjoy their society; and attacking the +utterly unprotected calves of their legs, "Wallady" soon kept his +admirers at a distance, and amused himself by making insulting grimaces, +which kept the crowd in a roar of laughter. I often found this monkey of +great use in diverting the attention of the savages from myself. He was +also a guarantee of my peaceful intentions, as no one intending +hostility would travel about with a monkey as one of the party. He was +so tame and affectionate to both of us that he was quite unhappy if out +of sight of his mistress: but he frequently took rough liberties with +the blacks, for whom he had so great an aversion and contempt that he +would have got into sad trouble at Exeter Hall. "Wallady" had no idea of +a naked savage being "a man and a brother." + +That night we slept soundly, both men and beasts being thoroughly +fatigued. The natives seemed to be aware of this, and a man was caught +in the act of stealing copper bracelets from a basket. He had crept like +a cat upon hands and knees to the spot where the luggage was piled, and +the sleepy sentry bad not observed him. + +There was no drum-call on the following morning, that useful instrument +having been utterly smashed by the camel; but I woke the men early, and +told them to be most careful in arranging the loads securely, as we had +to thread the rocky pass between Tollogo and Ellyria. I felt sure that +the Turks could not be far behind us, and I looked forward with anxiety +to getting through the pass before them. + +The natives of both Tollogo and Ellyria are the same in appearance and +language as the Bari; they are very brutal in manner, and they collected +in large crowds on our departure, with by no means a friendly aspect. +Many of them ran on ahead under the base of the rocks, apparently to +give notice at Ellyria of our arrival. I had three men as an advance +guard,--five or six in the rear,--while the remainder drove the +animals. Mrs. Baker and I rode on horseback at the head of the party. On +arriving at the extremity of the narrow valley we had to thread our way +through the difficult pass. The mountain of Ellyria, between two and +three thousand feet high, rose abruptly on our left, while the base was +entirely choked with enormous fragments of grey granite that, having +fallen from the face of the mountain, had completely blocked the pass. +Even the horses had great difficulty in threading their way through +narrow alleys formed of opposing blocks, and it appeared impossible for +loaded camels to proceed. The path was not only thus obstructed, but was +broken by excessively deep ravines formed by the torrents that during +the rains tore everything before them in their impetuous descent from +the mountains. To increase the difficulties of the pass many trees and +bushes were growing from the interstices of the rocks; thus in places +where the long legs of the camels could have cleared a narrow cleft, the +loads became jammed between the trees. These trees were for the most +part intensely hard wood, a species of lignum vitae, called by the Arabs +"babanoose," and were quite proof against our axes. Had the natives been +really hostile they could have exterminated us in five minutes, as it +was only necessary to hurl rocks from above to insure our immediate +destruction. It was in this spot that a trader's party of 126 men, well +armed, had been massacred to a man the year previous. + +Bad as the pass was, we had hope before us, as the Latookas explained +that beyond this spot there was level and unbroken ground the whole way +to Latooka. Could we only clear Ellyria before the Turks I had no fear +for the present; but at the very moment when success depended upon +speed, we were thus baffled by the difficulties of the ground. I +therefore resolved to ride on in advance of my party, leaving them to +overcome the difficulties of the pass by constantly unloading the +animals, while I would reconnoitre in front, as Ellyria was not far +distant. My wife and I accordingly rode on, accompanied only by one of +the Latookas as a guide. After turning a sharp angle of the mountain, +leaving the cliff abruptly rising to the left from the narrow path, we +descended a ravine worse than any place we had previously encountered, +and we were obliged to dismount, in order to lead our horses up the +steep rocks on the opposite side. On arrival on the summit, a lovely +view burst upon us. The valley of Ellyria was about four hundred feet +below, at about a mile distant. Beautiful mountains, some two or three +thousand feet high, of grey granite, walled in the narrow vale; while +the landscape of forest and plain was bounded at about fifty or sixty +miles' distance to the east by the blue mountains of Latooka. The +mountain of Ellyria was the commencement of the fine range that +continued indefinitely to the south. We were now in the very gorge of +that chain. Below us, in the valley, I observed some prodigious trees +growing close to a Hor (ravine), in which was running water, and the +sides of the valley under the mountains being as usual a mass of debris +of huge detached rocks, were thronged with villages, all strongly +fortified with thick bamboo palisades. The whole country was a series of +natural forts, occupied by a large population. + +A glance at the scene before me was quite sufficient;--to fight a way +through a valley a quarter of a mile wide, hemmed in by high walls of +rock and bristling with lances and arrows, would be impossible with my +few men, encumbered by transport animals. Should the camels arrive, I +could march into Myria in twenty minutes, make the chief a large +present, and pass on without halting until I cleared the Ellyria valley. +At any rate I was well before the Turks, and the forced march at night, +however distressing, had been successful. The great difficulty now lay +in the ravine that we had just crossed; this would assuredly delay the +caravan for a considerable time. + +Tying our horses to a bush, we sat upon a rock beneath the shade of a +small tree within ten paces of the path, and considered the best course +to pursue. I hardly liked to risk an advance into Ellyria alone, before +the arrival of my whole party, as we had been very rudely received by +the Tollogo people on the previous evening;--nevertheless I thought it +might be good policy to ride unattended into Ellyria, and thus to court +an introduction to the chief. However, our consultation ended in a +determination to wait where we then were, until the caravan should have +accomplished the last difficulty by crossing the ravine; when we would +all march into Ellyria in company. For a long time we sat gazing at the +valley before us in which our fate lay hidden, feeling thankful that we +had thus checkmated the brutal Turks. Not a sound was heard of our +approaching camels; the delay was most irksome. + +There were many difficult places that we had passed through, and each +would be a source of serious delay to the animals. At length we heard +them in the distance. We could distinctly hear the men's voices; and we +rejoiced that they were approaching the last remaining obstacle;--that +one ravine passed through, and all before would be easy. I heard the +rattling of the stones as they drew nearer; and, looking towards the +ravine, I saw emerge from the dark foliage of the trees within fifty +yards of us the hated RED FLAG AND CRESCENT, LEADING THE TURKS' PARTY! +We were outmarched! One by one, with scowling looks, the insolent +scoundrels filed by us within a few feet, without making the customary +salaam; neither noticing us in any way, except by threatening to shoot +the Latooka, our guide, who had formerly accompanied them. + +Their party consisted of a hundred and forty men armed with guns; while +about twice as many Latookas acted as porters, carrying beads, +ammunition, and the general effects of the party. It appeared that we +were hopelessly beaten. + +However, I determined to advance, at all hazards, on the arrival of my +party; and should the Turks incite the Ellyria tribe to attack us, I +intended, in the event of a fight, to put the first shot through the +leader. + +To be thus beaten, at the last moment, was unendurable. Boiling with +indignation as the insolent wretches filed past, treating me with the +contempt of a dog, I longed for the moment of action, no matter what +were the odds against us. At length their leader, Ibrahim, appeared in +the rear of the party. He was riding on a donkey, being the last of the +line, behind the flag that closed the march. + +I never saw a more atrocious countenance than that exhibited in this +man. A mixed breed, between a Turk sire and Arab mother, he had the good +features and bad qualities of either race. The fine, sharp, high-arched +nose and large nostril; the pointed and projecting chin; rather high +cheek-bones and prominent brow, overhanging a pair of immense black eyes +full of expression of all evil. As he approached he took no notice of +us, but studiously looked straight before him with the most determined +insolence. + +The fate of the expedition was, at this critical moment, retrieved by +Mrs. Baker. She implored me to call him, to insist upon a personal +explanation, and to offer him some present in the event of establishing +amicable relations. I could not condescend to address the sullen +scoundrel. He was in the act of passing us, and success depended upon +that instant. Mrs. Baker herself called him. For the moment he made no +reply; but, upon my repeating the call in a loud key, he turned his +donkey towards us and dismounted. I ordered him to sit down, as his men +were ahead and we were alone. + +The following dialogue passed between us after the usual Arab mode of +greeting. I said, "Ibrahim, why should we be enemies in the midst of +this hostile country? We believe in the same God, why should we quarrel +in this land of heathens, who believe in no God? You have your work to +perform; I have mine. You want ivory; I am a simple traveller; why +should we clash? If I were offered the whole ivory of the country, I +would not accept a single tusk, nor interfere with you in any way. +Transact your business, and don't interfere with me: the country is wide +enough for us both. I have a task before me, to reach a great lake-- +the head of the Nile. Reach it I will (Inshallah). No power shall drive +me back. If you are hostile, I will imprison you in Khartoum; if you +assist me, I will reward you far beyond any reward you have ever +received. Should I be killed in this country, you will be suspected; you +know the result; the Government would hang you on the bare suspicion. On +the contrary, if you are friendly, I will use my influence in any +country that I discover, that you may procure its ivory for the sake of +your master Koorshid, who was generous to Captains Speke and Grant, and +kind to me. Should you be hostile, I shall hold your master responsible +as your employer. Should you assist me, I will befriend you both. Choose +your course frankly, like a man--friend or enemy?" + +Before he had time to reply, Mrs. Baker addressed him much in the same +strain, telling him that he did not know what Englishmen were; that +nothing would drive them back; that the British Government watched over +them wherever they might be, and that no outrage could be committed with +impunity upon a British subject. That I would not deceive him in any +way; that I was not a trader; and that I should be able to assist him +materially by discovering new countries rich in ivory, and that he would +benefit himself personally by civil conduct. + +He seemed confused, and wavered. I immediately promised him a new +double-barrelled gun and some gold, when my party should arrive, as an +earnest of the future. + +He replied, "That he did not himself wish to be hostile, but that all +the trading parties, without one exception, were against me, and that +the men were convinced that I was a consul in disguise, who would report +to the authorities at Khartoum all the proceedings of the traders." He +continued, "That he believed me, but that his men would not; that all +people told lies in their country, therefore no one was credited for the +truth. However," said he, "do not associate with my people, or they may +insult you, but go and take possession of that large tree (pointing to +one in the valley of Ellyria) for yourself and people, and I will come +there and speak with you. I will now join my men, as I do not wish them +to know that I have been conversing with you." He then made a salaam, +mounted his donkey, and rode off. + +I had won him. I knew the Arab character so thoroughly that I was +convinced that the tree he had pointed out, followed by the words, "I +will come there and speak to you," was to be the rendezvous for the +receipt of the promised gun and money. + +I did not wait for the arrival of my men, but mounting our horses, my +wife and I rode down the hillside with lighter spirits than we had +enjoyed for some time past; I gave her the entire credit of the "ruse." +Had I been alone, I should have been too proud to have sought the +friendship of the sullen trader, and the moment on which success +depended would have been lost. + +On arrival at the grassy plain at the foot of the mountain, there was a +crowd of the trader's ruffians quarrelling for the shade of a few large +trees that grew on the banks of the stream. We accordingly dismounted, +and turning the horses to graze, we took possession of a tree at some +distance, under which a number of Latookas were already sitting. Not +being very particular as to our society, we sat down and waited for the +arrival of our party. The valley of Ellyria was a lovely spot in the +very bosom of the mountains. Close to where we sat were the great masses +of rock that had fallen from the cliffs, and upon examination I found +them to be the finest quality of grey granite, the feldspar being in +masses several inches square and as hard as a flint. There was no +scaling upon the surface, as is common in granite rocks. + +No sooner had the trader's party arrived than crowds of natives issued +from the palisaded villages on the mountain; and descending to the +plain, they mingled with the general confusion. The baggage was piled +beneath a tree, and a sentry placed on guard. + +The natives were entirely naked, and precisely the same as the Bari. +Their chief, Legge, was among them, and received a present from Ibrahim +of a long red cotton shirt, and he assumed an air of great importance. +Ibrahim explained to him who I was, and he immediately came to ask for +the tribute he expected to receive as "black mail" for the right of +entree into his country. Of all the villanous countenances that I have +ever seen, that of Legge excelled. + +Ferocity, avarice, and sensuality were stamped upon his face, and I +immediately requested him to sit for his portrait, and in about ten +minutes I succeeded in placing within my portfolio an exact likeness of +about the greatest rascal that exists in Central Africa. + +I had, now the satisfaction of seeing my caravan slowly winding down the +hillside in good order, having surmounted all their difficulties. + +Upon arrival, my men were perfectly astonished at seeing us so near the +trader's party, and still more confounded at my sending for Ibrahim to +summon him to my tree, where I presented him with some English +sovereigns, and a double-barrelled gun. Nothing escapes the +inquisitiveness of these Arabs; and the men of both parties quickly +perceived that I had established an alliance in some unaccountable +manner with Ibrahim. I saw the gun, lately presented to him, being +handed from one to the other for examination; and both my vakeel and men +appeared utterly confused at the sudden change. + +The chief of Ellyria now came to inspect my luggage, and demanded +fifteen heavy copper bracelets and a large quantity of beads. The +bracelets most in demand are simple rings of copper five-eighths of an +inch thick, and weighing about a pound; those of smaller size not being +so much valued. I gave him fifteen such rings, and about ten pounds of +beads in varieties, the red coral porcelain (dimiriaf) being the most +acceptable. Legge was by no means satisfied: he said "his belly was very +big and it must be filled," which signified, that his desire was great +and must be gratified. I accordingly gave him a few extra copper rings; +but suddenly he smelt spirits, one of the few bottles that I possessed +of spirits of wine having broken in the medicine chest. Ibrahim begged +me to give him a bottle to put him in a good humour, as he enjoyed +nothing so much as araki; I accordingly gave him a pint bottle of the +strongest spirits of wine. To my amazement he broke off the neck, and +holding his head well back, he deliberately allowed the whole of the +contents to trickle down his throat as innocently as though it had been +simple water. He was thoroughly accustomed to it, as the traders were in +the habit of bringing him presents of araki every season. He declared +this to be excellent, and demanded another bottle. At that moment a +violent storm of thunder and rain burst upon us with a fury well known +in the tropics; the rain fell like a waterspout, and the throng +immediately fled for shelter. So violent was the storm, that not a man +was to be seen: some were sheltering themselves under the neighbouring +rocks; while others ran to their villages that were close by; the +trader's people commenced a fusilade, firing off all their guns lest +they should get wet and miss fire. I could not help thinking how +completely they were at the mercy of the natives at that moment, had +they chosen to attack them; the trader's party were lying under their +untanned ox-hides with their empty guns. + +Each of my men was provided with a piece of mackintosh, with which his +gunlocks were secured. We lay upon an angarep covered with a bull's hide +until the storm was over. The thunder was magnificent, exploding on the +peak of the mountain exactly above us, and in the course of a quarter of +an hour torrents were rushing down the ravines among the rocks, the +effects of the violent storm that had passed away as rapidly as it had +arrived. + +No sooner had it ceased than the throng again appeared. Once more the +chief, Legge', was before us begging for all that we had. Although the +natives asked for beads, they would give nothing in exchange, and we +could purchase nothing for any article except molotes. These iron hoes +are made principally in this country: thus it appeared strange that they +should demand them. Legge does a large business with these hoes, sending +them into the Berri and Galla countries to the east, with various beads +and copper bracelets, to purchase ivory. Although there are very few +elephants in the neighbourhood of Ellyria, there is an immense amount of +ivory, as the chief is so great a trader that he accumulates it to +exchange with the Turks for cattle. Although he sells it so dear that he +demands twenty cows for a large tusk, it is a convenient station for the +traders, as, being near to Gondokoro, there is very little trouble in +delivering the ivory on shipboard. + +Although I had presented Legge' with what he desired, he would give +nothing in return, neither would he sell either goats or fowls; in fact, +no provision was procurable except honey. I purchased about eight pounds +of this luxury for a hoe. My men were starving, and I was obliged to +serve them out rice from my sacred stock, as I had nothing else to give +them. This they boiled and mixed with honey, and they were shortly +sitting round an immense circular bowl of this rarity, enjoying +themselves thoroughly, but nevertheless grumbling as usual. In the +coolest manner possible the great and greedy chief, Legge, who had +refused to give or even to sell anything to keep us from starving, no +sooner saw the men at their novel repast than he sat down among them and +almost choked himself by cramming handfuls of the hot rice and honey +into his mouth, which yawned like that of an old hippopotamus. The men +did not at all approve of this assistance, but as it is the height of +bad manners in Arab etiquette to repel a self-invited guest from the +general meal, he was not interfered with, and was thus enabled to +swallow the share of about three persons. + +Legge, although worse than the rest of his tribe, had a similar +formation of head. The Bari and those Tollogo and Ellyria have generally +bullet-shaped heads, low foreheads, skulls heavy behind the ears and +above the nape of the neck: altogether their appearance is excessively +brutal, and they are armed with bows six feet long and arrows horribly +barbed and poisoned. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +LEAVE ELLYRIA. + +ALTHOUGH Ellyria was a rich and powerful country, we had not been able +to procure any provisions--the natives refused to sell, and their +general behaviour was such that assured me of their capability of any +atrocity had they been prompted to attack us by the Turks. Fortunately +we had a good supply of meal that had been prepared for the journey +prior to our departure from Gondokoro: thus we could not starve. I also +had a sack of corn for the animals, a necessary precaution, as at this +season there was not a blade of grass; all in the vicinity of the route +having been burnt. + +We started on the 30th March, at 7.30 A.M., and opened from the valley +of Ellyria upon a perfectly flat country interspersed with trees. After +an hour's march we halted at a small stream of bad water. We had kisras +and honey for breakfast; but, for several days not having tasted meat, I +took the rifle for a stroll through the forest in search of game. After +an hour's ramble I returned without having fired a shot. I had come upon +fresh tracks of Tetel (hartebeest) and guinea-fowl, but they had +evidently come down to the stream to drink, and had wandered back into +the interior. If game was scarce, fruit was plentiful--both Richarn +and I were loaded with a species of yellow plum as large as an egg; +these grew in prodigious numbers upon fine forest trees, beneath which +the ground was yellow with the quantities that had fallen from the +boughs; these were remarkably sweet, and yet acid, with much juice, and +a very delicious flavour. + +At 11:25 we again started for a long march, our course being east. The +ground was most favourable for the animals, being perfectly flat and +free from ravines. We accordingly stepped along at a brisk pace, and the +intense heat of the sun throughout the hottest hours of the day made the +journey fatiguing for all but the camels. The latter were excellent of +their class, and now far excelled the other transport animals, marching +along with ease under loads of about 600 lbs. each. + +My caravan was at the rear of the trader's party; but the ground being +good, we left our people and cantered on to the advanced flag. It was +curious to witness the motley assemblage in single file extending over +about half a mile of ground:--several of the people were mounted on +donkeys; some on oxen: the most were on foot, including all the women to +the number of about sixty, who were the slaves of the trader's people. +These carried heavy loads; and many, in addition to the burdens, carried +children strapped to their backs in leather slings. + +After four or five hours' march during the intense heat many of the +overloaded women showed symptoms of distress, and became footsore;-- +the grass having been recently burnt had left the sharp charred stumps, +which were very trying to those whose sandals were not in the best +condition. The women were forced along by their brutal owners with sharp +blows of the coorbatch; and one who was far advanced in pregnancy could +at length go no farther. Upon this the savage to whom she belonged +belaboured her with a large stick, and not succeeding in driving her +before him, he knocked her down and jumped upon her. The woman's feet +were swollen and bleeding, but later in the day again saw her hobbling +along in the rear by the aid a bamboo. + +The traders march in good form; one flag leads the party, guarded by +eight or ten men, while a native carries a box of five hundred +cartridges for their use in case of an attack. The porters and baggage +follow in single file, soldiers being at intervals to prevent them from +running away; in which case the runner is invariably fired at The supply +of ammunition is in the centre, carried generally by about fifteen +natives, and strongly escorted by guards. The rear of the party is +closed by another flag behind which no straggler is permitted. The rear +flag is also guarded by six or eight men, with a box of spare +ammunition. With these arrangements the party is always ready to support +an attack. + +Ibrahim, my new ally, was now riding in front of the line, carrying on +his saddle before him a pretty little girl, his daughter, a child of a +year and a half old; her mother, a remarkably pretty Bari girl, one of +his numerous wives, was riding behind him on an ox. We soon got into +conversation;--a few pieces of sugar given to the child and mother by +Mrs. Baker was a sweet commencement; and Ibrahim then told me to beware +of my own men, as he knew they did not intend to remain with me; that +they were a different tribe from his men, and they would join Chenooda's +people and desert me on our arrival at their station in Latooka. This +was a corroboration of all I had heard previous to leaving Gondokoro, +therefore I had the promised mutiny in perspective. I had noticed that +my men were even more sullen than usual since I had joined Ibrahim; +however, I succeeded in convincing him that he would benefit so +decidedly by an alliance with me, that he now frankly told me that I +should receive no opposition from his party. So far all had prospered +beyond my most sanguine expectations. We were fairly launched upon our +voyage, and now that we were in the wild interior, I determined to crush +the mutiny with an iron hand should the rascals attempt to carry their +murderous threats into execution. Two or three of the men appeared +willing, but the original ringleader, "Bellaal," would literally do +nothing, not even assisting at loading the animals; but swaggering about +with the greatest insolence. + +After a fatiguing march of eight hours and ten minutes through a +perfectly flat country interspersed with trees, we halted at a little +well of excessively bad water at 7.35 P.M. The horses were so much in +advance that the main party did not arrive until 11 P.M. completely +fatigued. The night being fine, we slept on a hillock of sand a few +yards from the well, rejoiced to be away from the mosquitoes of +Gondokoro. + +On the following morning we started at sunrise, and in two hours' fast +marching we arrived at the Kanieti river Although there had been no +rain, the stream was very rapid and up to the girths of the horses at +the ford. The banks were very abrupt and about fifteen feet deep, the +bed between forty and fifty yards wide; thus a considerable volume of +water is carried down to the river Sobat by this river during the rains. +The whole drainage of the country, tends to the east, and accordingly +flows into the Sobat. + +The range of mountains running south from Ellyria is the watershed +between the east and west drainage; the Sobat receiving it on the one +hand, and the White Nile on the other, while the Nile eventually +receives the entire flow by the Sobat, as previously mentioned, in lat. +9 degrees 22 minutes. Having scrambled up the steep bank of the Kanieti +river, we crossed a large field of dhurra, and arrived at the village of +Wakkala. The village, or town, is composed of about seven hundred +houses, the whole being most strongly protected by a system of palisades +formed of "babanoose," the hard iron wood of the country. Not only is it +thus fortified, but the palisades are also protected by a hedge of +impervious thorns that grow to a height of about twenty feet. The +entrance to this fort is a curious archway, about ten feet deep, formed +of the iron-wood palisades, with a sharp turn to the right and left +forming a zigzag. The whole of the village thus fenced is situated in +the midst of a splendid forest of large timber. The inhabitants of +Wakkala are the same as the Ellyria, but governed by an independent +chief. They are great hunters; and as we arrived I saw several parties +returning from the forest with portions of wild boar and buffalo. + +From Gondokoro to this spot I had not seen a single head of game, but +the immediate neighbourhood of Wakkala was literally trodden down by the +feet of elephants, giraffes, buffaloes, rhinoceros, and varieties of +large antelopes. + +Having examined the village, I ordered my people to unload the animals +in the forest about a quarter of a mile from the entrance. The soil was +extremely rich, and the ground being shaded from the scorching rays of +the sun by the large trees, there was abundance of fine grass, which +accounted for the presence of the game: good pasturage, extensive +forests, and a plentiful supply of water insuring the supply of wild +animals. + +In a few minutes my horses and donkeys were luxuriating on the rich +herbage, not having tasted grass for some days; the camels revelled in +the foliage of the dark green mimosas; and the men, having found on the +march a buffalo that had been caught in a trap and there killed by a +lion, obtained some meat, and the whole party were feeding. We had +formed a kind of arbour by hacking out with a sabre a delightful shady +nook in the midst of a dense mass of creepers, and there we feasted upon +a couple of roast fowls that we had procured from the natives for glass +beads. This was the first meat we had tasted since we had quitted +Gondokoro. + +At 5.10 P.M. we left this delightful spot, and marched. Emerging from +the forest we broke upon a beautiful plain of fine low grass, bounded on +our right hand by jungle. This being the cool hour of evening, the plain +was alive with game, including buffaloes, zebras, and many varieties of +large antelopes. It was a most enlivening sight to see them scouring +over the plain as we advanced; but our large party, and three red flags +streaming in the breeze, effectually prevented us from getting +sufficiently near for a shot. + +I was sorely tempted to remain in this Elysium for a few days' shooting, +but the importance of an advance was too great to permit of any thoughts +of amusement; thus, I could only indulge a sportsman's feelings by +feasting my eyes upon the beautiful herds before me. + +At a quarter past seven we bivouacked in thick jungle. In the middle of +the night, the watch-fires still blazing, I was awoke by a great noise, +and upon arrival at the spot I found a number of the Turks with +firebrands, searching upon the ground, which was literally strewed with +beads and copper bracelets. The Latooka porters had broken open the bags +and baskets containing many hundredweight of these objects, and, loading +themselves, had intended to desert with their stolen prize; but the +sentries having discovered them, they were seized by the soldiers. + +There fellows, the Latookas, had exhibited the folly of monkeys in so +rashly breaking open the packages while the sentries were on guard. +Several who had been caught in the act were now pinioned by the Turks, +and were immediately condemned to be shot; while others were held down +upon the ground and well chastised with the coorbatch I begged that the +punishment of death might be commuted for a good flogging; at first I +implored in vain, until I suggested, that if the porters were shot, +there would be no one to carry their loads:--this practical argument +saved them, and after receiving a severe thrashing, their arms were +pinioned, and a guard set over them until the morning. + +We marched at 5.25 on the following morning. For several hours the path +led through thick jungle in which we occasionally caught glimpses of +antelopes. At length quitting the jungle we arrived at an open marshy +plain, upon which I discerned at a great distance a number of antelopes. +Having nothing to eat I determined to stalk them, as I heard from the +people that we were not far from our halting-place for the day. + +Accordingly I left Mrs. Baker with my horse and a spare rifle to wait, +while the party marched straight on; I intended to make a circuit +through the jungle and to wait for the entrance of the herd, which she +was to drive, by simply riding through the plain and leading my horse; +she was to bring the horse to me should I fire a shot. After walking for +about a mile in the jungle parallel with the plain, I saw the herd of +about two hundred Tetel going at full gallop from the open ground into +the jungle, having been alarmed by the red bags and the Turks, who had +crossed over the marsh. So shy were these antelopes that there was no +possibility of stalking them. I noticed however that there were several +waterbucks in the very centre of the marsh, and that two or three trees +afforded the possibility of a stalk. Having the wind all right, I +succeeded in getting to a tree within about two hundred and fifty yards +of the largest buck, and lying down in a dry trench that in the wet +season formed a brook, I crept along the bottom until I reached a tall +tuft of grass that was to be my last point of cover. Just as I raised +myself slowly from the trench I found the buck watching me most +attentively. A steady shot with my little No. 24 rifle took no effect-it +was too high:-the buck did not even notice the shot, which was, I +suppose, the first he had ever heard;-he was standing exactly facing me; +this is at all tines an unpleasant position for a shot. Seeing that he +did not seem disposed to move, I reloaded without firing my left-hand +barrel. I now allowed for the high range of the last shot; a moment +after the report he sprang into the air, then fell upon his knees and +galloped off on three legs; one of the fore-legs being broken. I had +heard the sharp sound of the bullet, but the shot was not very +satisfactory. Turning to look for my horse, I saw Mrs. Baker galloping +over the plain towards me, leading Filfil, while Richard ran behind at +his best speed. + +Upon her arrival I mounted Filfil, who was a fast horse, and with my +little No. 24 rifle in my hand I rode slowly towards the wounded +waterbuck, who was now standing watching us at about a quarter of a mile +distant. However, before I had decreased my distance by a hundred yards +he started off at full gallop. Putting Filfil into a canter I increased +the pace until I found that I must press him at full speed, as the +waterbuck, although on only three legs, had the best of it. The ground +was rough, having been marshy and trodden into ruts by the game, but now +dried by the sun;-bad for both horse and antelope, but especially for +the former: however, after a race of about a mile I found myself gaining +so rapidly that in a few moments I was riding on his left flank within +three yards of him, and holding the rifle with one hand like a pistol I +shot him dead through the shoulder. This little double rifle is an +exceedingly handy weapon;-it was made for me about nine years ago by +Thomas Fletcher, gunmaker of Gloucester, and is of most perfect +workmanship. I have shot with it most kinds of large game; although the +bore is so small as No. 24, I have bagged with it rhinoceros, +hippopotamus, lions, buffaloes, and all the heavy game except elephants +and giraffes; upon the latter I have never happened to try it. Weighing +only eight pounds and three-quarters it is most convenient to carry on +horseback, and although I have had frequent accidents through my horse +falling in full gallop, the stock is perfectly sound to this day. The +best proof of thorough honest workmanship is, that in many years of hard +work it has never been out of order, nor has it ever been in a +gunmaker's hands. + +The operation of cutting the waterbuck into four quarters, and then +stringing them on to a strip of its own hide, was quickly performed, and +with Richarn's assistance I slung it across my saddle, and led my horse, +thus heavily laden, towards the path. After some difficulty in crossing +muddy hollows and gullies in the otherwise dried marsh, we at length +succeeded in finding the tracks of the party that had gone on ahead. + +We had been steering from Ellyria due east towards the high peak of +"Gebel Lafeet," that rose exactly above one of the principal towns of +Latooka. With this fine beacon now apparently just before us, we had no +difficulty in finding our way. The country was now more open, and the +ground sandy and interspersed with the hegleek trees, which gave it the +appearance of a vast orchard of large pear trees. The "hegleek" is +peculiarly rich in potash; so much so that the ashes of the burnt wood +will blister the tongue. It bears a fruit about the size and shape of a +date;-this is very sweet and aromatic in flavour, and is also so rich in +potash that it is used as a substitute for soap. + +After an hour's walk always on the tracks of the party, we saw a large +Latooka town in the distance, and upon a nearer approach we discovered +crowds of people collected under two enormous trees. Presently guns +fired, the drums beat, and as we drew nearer we perceived the Turkish +flags leading a crowd of about a hundred men, who approached us with the +usual salutes, every man firing off ball cartridge as fast as he could +reload. My men were already with this lot of ragamuffins, and this was +the ivory or slave trading party that they had conspired to join. They +were marching towards me to honour me with a salute, which, upon close +approach, ended by their holding their guns, muzzle downwards, and +firing them almost into my feet. I at once saw through their object in +giving me this reception;-they had already heard from the other party +exaggerated accounts of presents that their leader had received, and +they were jealous at the fact of my having established confidence with a +party opposed to them. The vakeel of Chenooda was the man who had from +the first instigated my men to revolt and to join his party, and he at +that moment had two of my deserters with him that had mutinied and +joined him at Gondokoro. It had been agreed that the remainder of my men +were to mutiny at this spot and to join him with MY ARMS AND AMMUNITION. +This was to be the stage for the outbreak. The apparent welcome was only +to throw me off my guard. + +I was coldly polite, and begging them not to waste their powder, I went +to the large tree that threw a beautiful shade, and we sat down, +surrounded by a crowd of both natives and trader's people. Mahommed Her +sent me immediately a fat ox for my people: not to be under any +obligation I immediately gave him a double-barrelled gun. The ox was +slaughtered, and the people preferring beef to antelope venison, I gave +the flesh of the waterbuck to the Latooka porters belonging to Ibrahim's +party. Thus all teeth were busy. Ibrahim and his men occupied the shade +of another enormous tree at about a hundred and fifty yards' distance. + +The town was Latome, one of the principal places in the Latooka country, +and was strongly palisaded, like the town of Wakkala. I did not go +through the entrance, but contented myself with resting under my tree +and writing up the journal from my note-book. Before we had been there +many hours the two parties of Ibrahim and Mahommed Her were engaged in a +hot contention. Mahommed Her declared that no one had a right of way +through that country, which belonged to him according to the customs of +the White Nile trade; that he would not permit the party of Ibrahim to +proceed, and that, should they persist in their march, he would resist +them by force. + +Words grew high;-Ibrahim was not afraid of force, as he had a hundred +and forty men against Mahommed Her's hundred and five;-insults and abuse +were liberally exchanged, while the natives thronged around, enjoying +the fun, until at last Mahommed Her's temper becoming outrageous, he was +seized by the throat by Sulieman, a powerful choush or sergeant of +Ibrahim's party, and hurled away from the select society who claimed the +right of road. Great confusion arose, and both parties prepared for a +fight, which after the usual bluster died away to nothing. However, I +noticed that my men most unmistakeably took the part of Mahommed Her +against Ibrahim; they belonging to his tribe. + +The evening arrived, and my vakeel, with his usual cunning, came to ask +me "whether I intended to start to-morrow?" He said there was excellent +shooting in this neighbourhood, and that Ibrahim's camp not being more +than five hours' march beyond, I could at any time join him, should I +think proper. Many of my men were sullenly listening to my reply, which +was, that we should start in company with Ibrahim. The men immediately +turned their backs, and swaggered insolently to the town, muttering +something that I could not distinctly understand. I gave orders +directly, that no man should sleep in the town, but that all should be +at their posts by the luggage under the tree that I occupied. At night +several men were absent, and were with difficulty brought from the town +by the vakeel. The whole of the night was passed by the rival parties +quarrelling and fighting. At 5.30 on the following morning the drum of +Ibrahim's party beat the call, and his men with great alacrity got their +porters together and prepared to march. + +My vakeel was not to be found; my men were lying idly in the positions +where they had slept; and not a man obeyed when I gave the order to +prepare to start except Richarn and Sali. I saw that the moment had +arrived. Again I gave the order to the men, to get up and load the +animals; ...not a man would move, except three or four who slowly rose +from the ground, and stood resting on their guns. In the meantime +Richarn and Sali were bringing the camels and making them kneel by the +luggage. The boy Saat was evidently expecting a row, and although +engaged with the black women in packing, he kept his eyes constantly +upon me. + +I now observed that Bellaal was standing very near me on my right, in +advance of the men who had risen from the ground, and employed himself +in eyeing me from head to foot with the most determined insolence. The +fellow had his gun in his hand, and he was telegraphing by looks with +those who were standing near him, while not one of the others rose from +the ground, although close to me. Pretending not to notice Bellaal who +was now as I had expected once more the ringleader, for the third time I +ordered the men to rise immediately, and to load the camels. Not a man +moved, but the fellow Bellaal marched up to me, and looking me straight +in the face dashed the butt-end of his gun in defiance on the ground, +and led the mutiny. "Not a man shall go with you!-go where you like with +Ibrahim, but we won't follow you, nor move a step farther. The men shall +not load the camels; you may employ the 'niggers' to do it, but not us." + +I looked at this mutinous rascal for a moment; this was the burst of the +conspiracy, and the threats and insolence that I had been forced to pass +over for the sake of the expedition all rushed before me. "Lay down your +gun!" I thundered, "and load the camels!" . . . . . . "I won't"--was his +reply. "Then stop here!" I answered; at the same time lashing out as +quick as lightning with my right hand upon his jaw. + +He rolled over in a heap, his gun flying some yards from his hand; and +the late ringleader lay apparently insensible among the luggage, while +several of his friends ran to him, and did the good Samaritan. Following +up on the moment the advantage I had gained by establishing a panic, I +seized my rifle and rushed into the midst of the wavering men, catching +first one by the throat, and then another, and dragging them to the +camels, which I insisted upon their immediately loading. All except +three, who attended to the ruined ringleader, mechanically obeyed. +Richarn and Sali both shouted to them to "burry;" and the vakeel +arriving at this moment and seeing how matters stood, himself assisted, +and urged the men to obey. + +Ibrahim's party had started. The animals were soon loaded, and leaving +the vakeel to take them in charge, we cantered on to overtake Ibrahim, +having crushed the mutiny, and given such an example, that in the event +of future conspiracies my men would find it difficult to obtain a +ringleader. So ended the famous conspiracy that had been reported to me +by both Saat and Richarn before we left Gondokoro;-and so much for the +threat of "firing simultaneously at me and deserting my wife in the +jungle." In those savage countries success frequently depends upon one +particular moment; you may lose or win according to your action at that +critical instant. We congratulated ourselves upon the termination of +this affair, which I trusted would be the last of the mutinies. + +The country was now lovely; we were at the base of the mountain +"Lafeet," which rose abruptly on our left to the height of about 3,000 +feet, the highest peak of the eastern chain that formed the broad valley +of Latooka. The course of the valley was from S.E. to N.W.; about forty +miles long by eighteen miles wide; the flat bottom was diversified by +woods, thick jungles, open plains, and the ever-present hegleek trees, +which in some places gave the appearance of forest. The south side of +the valley was bounded by a high range of mountains, rising to six or +seven thousand feet above the general level of Latooka, while the +extreme end was almost blocked by a noble but isolated mountain of about +5,000 feet. + +Our path being at the foot of the Lafeet chain, the ground was sandy but +firm, being composed of disintegrated portions of the granite rocks that +had washed down from the mountains, and we rode quickly along a natural +road, equal to the best highway in England. We soon overtook Ibrahim and +his party, and recounted the affair of mutiny. + +The long string of porters now closed together as we were approaching a +rebel town of Latooka that was hostile to both Turks and others. +Suddenly one of the native porters threw down his load and bolted over +the open ground towards the village at full speed. The fellow bounded +along like an antelope, and was immediately pursued by half a dozen +Turks. "Shoot him! shoot him! knock him over!" was shouted from the main +body; and twenty guns were immediately pointed at the fugitive, who +distanced his pursuers as a horse would outstrip an ox. + +To save the man I gave chase on Filfil, putting myself in the line +between him and the guns, to prevent them from firing. After a short +course I overtook him, but he still continued running, and upon my +closing with him he threw his spear on the ground, but still ran. Not +being able to speak his language, I made signs that he should hold the +mane of my horse, and that no one should hurt him. He at once clutched +with both hands the horse's mane, and pushed himself almost under my +knee in his efforts to keep close to me for protection. The Turks +arrived breathless, and the native appeared as terrified as a hare at +the moment it is seized by the greyhound. "Shoot him!" they one and all +shouted. "Well done, `Hawaga!' (Sir) you caught him beautifully! We +never could have caught him without your horse. Pull him out! we'll +shoot him as an example to the others!" I explained that he was my man, +and belonged to me as I had caught him, therefore I could not allow him +to be shot. "Then we'll give him five hundred with the coorbatch!" they +cried. Even this generous offer I declined, and I insisted that he +should accompany me direct to Ibrahim, into whose hands I should myself +deliver him. Accordingly, still clutching to my horse's mane, the +captive followed, and was received by the main body on arrival with +shouts of derision. + +I told Ibrahim that he must forgive him this time, if he promised to +carry his load to the end of the journey. He immediately picked up his +heavy burden as though it were a feather, and balancing it on his head, +stepped along in the line of porters as though nothing had occurred. + +Trifling as this incident may appear, it was of much service to me, as +it served as an introduction to both Turks and natives. I heard the +former conversing together, praising the speed of the horse, and +congratulating themselves on the impossibility of the porters escaping +now that they had seen how quickly they could be overtaken. Another +remarked, "Wah Illahi, I should not like to chase a nigger so closely +while a lance was in his hand. I expected he would turn sharp round and +throw it through the Hawaga." Thus I was now looked upon by the Turks as +an ALLY, and at the same time I was regarded by the Latookas as their +friend for having saved their man; and they grinned their approbation in +the most unmistakeable manner as I rode past their line, shouting, " +Morrte, morrte mattat!" (welcome, welcome, chief!) On arriving at a +large town named Kattaga, we rested under the shade of an immense +tamarind tree. There was no sign of my men and animals, and I began to +think that something had gone wrong. For two hours we waited for their +arrival. Ascending some rising ground, I at length observed my caravan +approaching in the distance, and every one of my men, except Richarn, +mounted upon my donkeys, although the poor animals were already carrying +loads of 150 lbs. each. Upon observing me, the dismount was sudden and +general. On their arrival I found that three of the men had deserted, +including "Bellaal," and had joined the party of Mahommed Her, taking +with them my guns and ammunition. Two had previously joined that party; +thus five of my men were now engaged by those slave-hunters, and I +little doubted that my remaining men would abscond likewise. + +On the arrival of my vakeel he told me, in face of the men, that so many +had deserted, and that the others had refused to assist him in taking +the guns from them; thus my arms and ammunition had been forcibly +stolen. I abused both the vakeel and the men most thoroughly; and "as +for the mutineers who have joined the slave-hunters, Inshallah, the +vultures shall pick their bones!" This charitable wish--which, I +believe, I expressed with intense hatred--was never forgotten either by +my own men or by the Turks. Believing firmly in the evil eye, their +superstitious fears were immediately excited. Continuing the march along +the same style of country we shortly came in view of Tarrangolle, the +chief town of Latooka, at which point was the station of Ibrahim. We had +marched thirteen miles from Latome, the station of Mahommed Her, at +which place my men had deserted, and we were now 101 miles from +Gondokoro by dead reckoning. + +There were some superb trees situated close to the town, under which we +camped until the natives could prepare a hut for our reception. Crowds +of people now surrounded us, amazed at the two great objects of +interest--the camels, and a white woman. They did not think me very +peculiar, as I was nearly as brown as an Arab. + +The Latookas are the finest savages I have ever seen. I measured a +number of them as they happened to enter my tent, and allowing two +inches for the thickness of their felt helmets, the average height was 5 +ft. 11 1/2 in. Not only are they tall, but they possess a wonderful +muscular development, having beautifully proportioned legs and arms; and +although extremely powerful, they are never fleshy or corpulent. The +formation of head and general physiognomy is totally different from all +other tribes that I have met with in the neighbourhood of the White +Nile. They have high foreheads, large eyes, rather high cheekbones, +mouths not very large, well-shaped, and the lips rather full. They all +have a remarkably pleasing cast of countenance, and are a great contrast +to the other tribes in civility of manner. Altogether their appearance +denotes a Galla origin, and it is most probable that, at some former +period, an invasion by the Gallas of this country originated the +settlement of the Latookas. + +One of the principal channels, if not the main stream of the river +Sobat, is only four days' march or fifty miles east of Latooka, and is +known to the natives as the Chol. The east bank of that stream is +occupied by the Gallas, who have frequently invaded the Latooka country. +There is an interesting circumstance connected with these invasions, +that the Gallas were invariably mounted upon MULES. Neither horse, +camel, nor other beast of burden is known to any of the White Nile +tribes, therefore the existence of mules on the east bank of the Chol is +a distinguishing feature. Both Abyssinia and the Galla being renowned +for a fine breed of mules, affords good circumstantial evidence that the +Akkara tribe of the Chol are true Gallas, and that the Latookas may be +derived from a similar origin by settlements after conquest. + +The great chief of the Latookas, "Moy," assured me that his people could +not withstand the cavalry of the Akkara, although they were superior to +all other tribes on foot. + +I have heard the traders of Khartoum pretend that they can distinguish +the tribes of the White Nile by their individual type. I must confess my +inability on this point. In vain I have attempted to trace an actual +difference. To me the only distinguishing mark between the tribes +bordering the White River is a peculiarity in either dressing the hair, +or in ornament. The difference of general appearance caused by a variety +of hairdressing is most perplexing, and is apt to mislead a traveller +who is only a superficial observer; but from the commencement of the +negro tribes in N. lat. 12 degrees to Ellyria in lat. 4 degrees 30 +minutes I have found no specific difference in the people. The actual +change takes place suddenly on arrival in Latooka, and this is accounted +for by an admixture with the Gallas. + +The Latookas are a fine, frank, and warlike race. Far from being the +morose set of savages that I had hitherto seen, they were excessively +merry, and always ready for either a laugh or a fight. The town of +Tarrangolle contained about three thousand houses, and was not only +surrounded by iron-wood palisades, but every house was individually +fortified by a little stockaded courtyard. The cattle were kept in large +kraals in various parts of the town, and were most carefully attended +to, fires being lit every night to protect them from flies; and high +platforms, in three tiers, were erected in many places, upon which +sentinels watched both day and night to give the alarm in case of +danger. The cattle are the wealth of the country, and so rich are the +Latookas in oxen, that ten or twelve thousand head are housed in every +large town; thus the natives are ever on the watch, fearing the attacks +of the adjacent tribes. + +The houses of the Latookas are generally bell-shaped, while others are +precisely like huge candle-extinguishers, about twenty-five feet high. +The roofs are neatly thatched, at an angle of about 75 degrees, resting +upon a circular wall about four feet high; thus the roof forms a cap +descending to within two feet and a half of the ground. The doorway is +only two feet and two inches high, thus an entrance must be effected +upon all-fours. The interior is remarkably clean, but dark, as the +architects have no idea of windows. It is a curious fact that the +circular form of but is the only style of architecture adopted among all +the tribes of Central Africa, and also among the Arabs of Upper Egypt; +and that, although these differ more or less in the form of the roof, no +tribe has ever yet sufficiently advanced to construct a window. The town +of Tarrangolle is arranged with several entrances, in the shape of low +archways through the palisades; these are closed at night by large +branches of the hooked thorn of the kittur bush (a species of mimosa). +The main street is broad, but all others are studiously arranged to +admit of only one cow, in single file, between high stockades; thus, in +the event of an attack, these narrow passages could be easily defended, +and it would be impossible to drive off their vast herds of cattle +unless by the main street. The large cattle kraals are accordingly +arranged in various quarters in connexion with the great road, and the +entrance of each kraal is a small archway in the strong iron-wood fence +sufficiently wide to admit one ox at a time. + +Suspended from the arch is a bell, formed of the shell of the Dolape +palm-nut, against which every animal must strike either its horns or +back, on entrance. + +Every tinkle of the bell announces the passage of an ox into the kraal, +and they are thus counted every evening when brought home from pasture. +I had noticed, during the march from Latome, that the vicinity of every +town was announced by heaps of human remains. Bones and skulls formed a +Golgotha within a quarter of a mile of every village. Some of these were +in earthenware pots, generally broken; others lay strewn here and there; +while a heap in the centre showed that some form had originally been +observed in their disposition. This was explained by an extraordinary +custom most rigidly observed by the Latookas. Should a man be killed in +battle the body is allowed to remain where it fell, and is devoured by +the vultures and hyenas; but should he die a natural death, he or she is +buried in a shallow grave within a few feet of his own door, in the +little courtyard that surrounds each dwelling. Funeral dances are then +kept up in memory of the dead for several weeks; at the expiration of +which time, the body being sufficiently decomposed, is exhumed. The +bones are cleaned, and are deposited in an earthenware jar, and carried +to a spot near the town which is regarded as the cemetery. I observed +that they were not particular in regarding the spot as sacred, as signs +of nuisances were present even upon the bones, that in civilized +countries would have been regarded as an insult. + +There is little difficulty in describing the toilette of the native-- +that of the men being simplified by the sole covering of the head, the +body being entirely nude. It is curious to observe among these wild +savages the consummate vanity displayed in their head-dresses. Every +tribe has a distinct and unchanging fashion for dressing the hair; and +so elaborate is the coiffure that hair-dressing is reduced to a science. +European ladies would be startled at the fact, that to perfect the +coiffure of a man requires a period of from eight to ten years! However +tedious the operation, the result is extraordinary. The Latookas wear +most exquisite helmets, all of which are formed of their own hair; and +are, of course, fixtures. At first sight it appears incredible, but a +minute examination shows the wonderful perseverance of years in +producing what must be highly inconvenient. The thick, crisp wool is +woven with fine twine, formed from the bark of a tree, until it presents +a thick network of felt. As the hair grows through this matted substance +it is subjected to the same process, until, in the course of years, a +compact substance is formed like a strong felt, about an inch and a half +thick, that has been trained into the shape of a helmet. A strong rim, +of about two inches deep, is formed by sewing it together with thread; +and the front part of the helmet is protected by a piece of polished +copper; while a piece of the same metal, shaped like the half of a +bishop's mitre and about a foot in length, forms the crest. The +framework of the helmet being at length completed, it must be perfected +by an arrangement of beads, should the owner of the head be sufficiently +rich to indulge in the coveted distinction. The beads most in fashion +are the red and the blue porcelain, about the size of small peas. These +are sewn on the surface of the felt, and so beautifully arranged in +sections of blue and red that the entire helmet appears to be formed of +beads; and the handsome crest of polished copper, surmounted by +ostrich-plumes, gives a most dignified and martial appearance to this +elaborate head-dress. No helmet is supposed to be complete without a row +of cowrie-shells stitched around the rim so as to form a solid edge. + +The Latookas have neither bows nor arrows, their weapons consisting of +the lance, a powerful iron-headed mace, a long-bladed knife or sword, +and an ugly iron bracelet, armed with knife-blades about four inches +long by half an inch broad: the latter is used to strike with if +disarmed, and to tear with when wrestling with an enemy. Their shields +are either of buffaloes' hide or of giraffes', the latter being highly +prized as excessively tough although light, and thus combining the two +requisite qualities of a good shield; they are usually about four feet +six inches long by two feet wide, and are the largest I have seen. +Altogether, everything in Latooka looks like fighting. Although the men +devote so much attention to their head-dress, the women are extremely +simple. It is a curious fact, that while the men are remarkably +handsome, the women are exceedingly plain;--they are immense creatures, +few being under five feet seven in height, with prodigious limbs. Their +superior strength to that of other tribes may be seen in the size of +their water jars, which are nearly double as large as any I have seen +elsewhere, containing about ten gallons; in these they fetch water from +the stream about a mile distant from the town. They wear exceedingly +long tails, precisely like those of horses, but made of fine twine and +rubbed with red ochre and grease. They are very convenient when they +creep into their huts on bands and knees. In addition to the tails, they +wear a large flap of tanned leather in front. Should I ever visit that +country again, I should take a great number of "Freemasons'" aprons for +the women; these would be highly prized, and would create a perfect +FUROR. The only really pretty women that I saw in Latooka were Bokke, +the wife of the chief, and her daughter; they were fac-similes of each +other, the latter having the advantage of being the second edition. Both +women and men were extremely eager for beads of all kinds, the most +valuable being the red and blue porcelain for helmets, and the large +opalescent bead, the size of a child's marble. + +The day after my arrival in Latooka I was accommodated by the chief with +a hut in a neat courtyard, beautifully clean and cemented with clay, +ashes, and cow-dung. Not patronising the architectural advantages of a +doorway of two feet high, I pitched my large tent in the yard and stowed +all my baggage in the hut. All being arranged, I had a large Persian +carpet spread upon the ground, and received the chief of Latooka in +state. He was introduced by Ibrahim, and I had the advantage of his +interpreter. + +I commenced the conversation by ordering a present to be laid on the +carpet of several necklaces of valuable beads, copper bars, and coloured +cotton handkerchief. It was most amusing to witness his delight at a +string of fifty little "berrets" (opal beads the size of marbles) which +I had brought into the country for the first time, and were accordingly +extremely valuable. No sooner had he surveyed them with undisguised +delight than he requested me to give him another string of opals for his +wife, or she would be in a bad humour;--accordingly a present for the +lady was added to the already large pile of beads that lay heaped upon +the carpet before him. After surveying his treasures with pride, he +heaved a deep sigh, and turning to the interpreter he said, "What a row +there will be in the family when my other wives see Bokke (his head +wife) dressed up with this finery. Tell the `Mattat' that unless he +gives necklaces for each of my other wives, they will fight!" +Accordingly I asked him the number of ladies that made him anxious. He +deliberately began to count upon his fingers, and having exhausted the +digits of one hand, I compromised immediately, begging him not to go +through the whole of his establishment, and presented him with about +three pounds of various beads, to be divided among them. He appeared +highly delighted, and declared his intention of sending all his wives to +pay Mrs. Baker a visit. This was an awful visitation, as each wife would +expect a present for herself, and would assuredly have either a child or +a friend for whom she would beg an addition. I therefore told him that +the heat was so great that we could not bear too many in the tent, but +that if Bokke, his favourite, would appear, we should be glad to see +her. + +Accordingly he departed, and shortly we were honoured by a visit. Bokke +and her daughter were announced, and a prettier pair of savages I never +saw. They were very clean;--their hair was worn short, like all the +women of the country, and plastered with red ochre and fat, so as to +look like vermilion; their faces were slightly tattooed on the cheeks +and temples; and they sat down on the many-coloured carpet with great +surprise, and stared at the first white man and woman they had ever +seen. We gave them both a number of necklaces of red and blue beads, and +I secured Bokke's portrait in my sketch book, obtaining a very correct +likeness. She told us that Mahommed Her's men were very bad people; that +they had burnt and plundered one of her villages; and that one of the +Latookas who had been wounded in the fight by a bullet had just died, +and they were to dance for him to-morrow, if we would like to attend. +She asked many questions; how many wives I had? and was astonished to +hear that I was contented with one. This seemed to amuse her immensely, +and she laughed heartily with her daughter at the idea. She said that my +wife would be much improved if she would extract her four front teeth +from the lower jaw, and wear the red ointment on her hair, according to +the fashion of the country; she also proposed that she should pierce her +under lip, and wear the long pointed polished crystal, about the size of +a drawing pencil, that is the "thing" in the Latooka country. No woman +among the tribe who has any pretensions to be a "swell" would be without +this highly-prized ornament, and one of my thermometers having come to +an end I broke the tube into three pieces, and they were considered as +presents of the highest value, to be worn through the perforated under +lip. Lest the piece should slip through the hole in the lip, a kind of +rivet is formed by twine bound round the inner extremity, and this +protruding into the space left by the extraction of the four front teeth +of the lower jaw, entices the tongue to act upon the extremity, which +gives it a wriggling motion, indescribably ludicrous during +conversation. + +I cannot understand for what reason all the White Nile tribes extract +the four front teeth of the lower jaw. Were the meat of the country +tender, the loss of teeth might be a trifle; but I have usually found +that even a good set of grinders are sometimes puzzled to go through the +operation needful to a Latooka beefsteak. It is difficult to explain +real beauty; a defect in one country is a desideratum in another; scars +upon the face are, in Europe, a blemish; but here and in the Arab +countries no beauty can be perfect until the cheeks or temples have been +gashed. + +The Arabs make three gashes upon each cheek, and rub the wounds with +salt and a kind of porridge (asida) to produce proud flesh; thus every +female slave, captured by the slave-hunters, is marked to prove her +identity, and to improve her charms. Each tribe has its peculiar fashion +as to the position and form of the cicatrix. + +The Latookas gash the temples and cheeks of their women, but do not +raise the scar above the surface, as is the custom of the Arabs. + +Polygamy is, of course, the general custom; the number of a man's wives +depending entirely upon his wealth, precisely as would the number of his +horses in England. There is no such thing as love in these countries: +the feeling is not understood, nor does it exist in the shape in which +we understand it. Everything is practical, without a particle of +romance. Women are so far appreciated as they are valuable animals. They +grind the corn, fetch the water, gather firewood, cement the floors, +cook the food, and propagate the race; but they are mere servants, and +as such are valuable. The price of a good-looking, strong young wife, +who could carry a heavy jar of water, would be ten cows; thus a man, +rich in cattle, would be rich in domestic bliss, as he could command a +multiplicity of wives. However delightful may be a family of daughters +in England, they nevertheless are costly treasures; but in Latooka, and +throughout savage lands, they are exceedingly profitable. The simple +rule of proportion will suggest that if one daughter is worth ten cows, +ten daughters must be worth a hundred, therefore a large family is the +source of wealth; the girls produce the cows, and the boys milk them. +All being perfectly naked (I mean the girls and the boys), there is no +expense, and the children act as herdsmen to the flocks as in the +patriarchal times. A multiplicity of wives thus increases wealth by the +increase of family. I am afraid this practical state of affairs will be +a strong barrier to missionary enterprise. + +A savage holds to his cows, and his women, but especially to his COWS. +In a razzia fight he will seldom stand for the sake of his wives, but +when he does fight it is to save his cattle. I had now a vivid +exemplification of this theory. + +One day, at about 3 P.M., the men of Ibrahim started upon some +mysterious errand, but returned equally mysterious at about midnight. On +the following morning I heard that they had intended to attack some +place upon the mountains, but they had heard that it was too powerful; +and as "discretion is the better part of valour," they had returned. + +On the day following I heard that there had been some disaster, and that +the whole of Mahommed Her's party had been massacred. The natives seemed +very excited, and messenger succeeded messenger, all confirming the +account that Mahommed Her had attacked a village on the mountains, the +same that Ibrahim had intended to attack, and that the natives had +exterminated their whole party. + +On the following morning I sent ten of my men with a party of Ibrahim's +to Latome to make inquiries. They returned on the following afternoon, +bringing with them two wounded men. + +It appeared that Mahommed Her had ordered his party of 110 armed men, in +addition to 300 natives, to make a razzia upon a certain village among +the mountains for slaves and cattle. They had succeeded in burning a +village, and in capturing a great number of slaves. Having descended the +pass, a native gave them the route that would lead to the capture of a +large herd of cattle that they had not yet discovered. They once more +ascended the mountain by a different path, and arriving at the kraal, +they commenced driving off the vast herd of cattle. The Latookas, who +had not fought while their wives and children were being carried into +slavery, now fronted bravely against the muskets to defend their herds, +and charging the Turks, they drove them down the pass. + +It was in vain that they fought; every bullet aimed at a Latooka struck +a rock, behind which the enemy was hidden. Rocks, stones, and lances +were hurled at them from all sides and from above; they were forced to +retreat. + +The retreat ended in a panic and precipitate flight. Hemmed in on all +sides, amidst a shower of lances and stones thrown from the mountain +above, the Turks fled pele-mele down the rocky and precipitous ravines. +Mistaking their route, they came to a precipice from which there was no +retreat. The screaming and yelling savages closed round them. Fighting +was useless; the natives, under cover of the numerous detached rocks, +offered no mark for an aim; while the crowd of armed savages thrust them +forward with wild yells to the very verge of the great precipice about +five hundred feet below. Down they fell! hurled to utter destruction by +the mass of Latookas pressing onward! A few fought to the last; but one +and all were at length forced, by sheer pressure, over the edge of the +cliff, and met a just reward for their atrocities. + +My men looked utterly cast down, and a feeling of horror pervaded the +entire party. No quarter had been given by the Latookas; and upwards of +200 natives who had joined the slave-hunters in the attack, had also +perished with their allies. Mahommed Her had not him self accompanied +his people, both he and Bellaal, my late ringleader, having remained in +camp; the latter having, fortunately for him, been disabled, and placed +hors de combat by the example I had made during the mutiny. + +My men were almost green with awe, when I asked them solemnly, "Where +were the men who had deserted from me?" Without answering a word they +brought two of my guns and laid them at my feet. They were covered with +clotted blood mixed with sand, which had hardened like cement over the +locks and various portions of the barrels. My guns were all marked. As I +looked at the numbers upon the stocks, I repeated aloud the names of the +owners. "Are they all dead?" I asked. "All dead," the men replied. "FOOD +FOR THE VULTURES?" I asked. "None of the bodies can be recovered," +faltered my vakeel. "The two guns were brought from the spot by some +natives who escaped, and who saw the men fall. They are all killed." +"Better for them had they remained with me and done their duty. The hand +of God is heavy," I replied. My men slunk away abashed, leaving the gory +witnesses of defeat and death upon the ground. I called Saat and ordered +him to give the two guns to Richarn to clean. + +Not only my own men but the whole of Ibrahim's party were of opinion +that I had some mysterious connexion with the disaster that had befallen +my mutineers. All remembered the bitterness of my prophecy, "The +vultures will pick their bones," and this terrible mishap having +occurred so immediately afterwards took a strong hold upon their +superstitious minds. As I passed through the camp, the men would quietly +exclaim, "Wah Illahi Hawaga!" (My God! Master.) To which I simply +replied, "Robinee fe!" (There is a God.) From that moment I observed an +extraordinary change in the manner of both my people and those of +Ibrahim, all of whom now paid us the greatest respect. + +Unfortunately a great change had likewise taken place in the manner of +the Latookas. The whole town was greatly excited, drums were beating and +horns blowing in all quarters, every one rejoicing at the annihilation +of Mahommed Her's party. The natives no longer respected the superior +power of guns; in a hand-to-hand fight they had proved their own +superiority, and they had not the sense to distinguish the difference +between a struggle in a steep mountain pass and a battle on the open +plain. Ibrahim was apprehensive of a general attack on his party by the +Latookas. + +This was rather awkward, as it was necessary for him to return to +Gondokoro for a large supply of ammunition which had been left there for +want of porters to convey it, when he had started for the interior. To +march to Gondokoro, and to guard the ammunition, would require a large +force in the present disturbed state of the country; thus we should be a +much-reduced party, which might induce the Latookas to attack us after +his departure. However, it was necessary that he should start. I +accordingly lent him a couple of donkeys to convey his powder, in case +he should not be able to procure porters. + +After the departure of Ibrahim, the force of his party remaining at +Tarrangolle was reduced to thirty-five men, under the command of his +lieutenant, Suleiman. This was a weak detachment in the event of an +attack, especially as they had no separate camp, but were living in the +native town, the men quartered in detached huts, and accordingly at the +mercy of the natives if surprised. The brutality of the Turks was so +inseparable from their nature, that they continually insulted the native +women to such an extent that I felt sure they would provoke hostilities +in the present warlike humour of the Latookas. The stream being nearly a +mile distant, there was a difficulty in procuring water. The Turks being +far too lazy to carry it for themselves, seized upon the water-jars when +the women returned from the stream, and beat them severely upon their +refusal to deliver them without payment. I found no difficulty, as I +engaged a woman to bring a regular supply for a daily payment in beads. +Much bartering was going on between the Turks and the natives for +provisions, in which the latter were invariably cheated, and beaten if +they complained. I felt sure that such conduct must end in disagreement, +if not in actual fight, in the event of which I knew that I should be +dragged into the affair, although perfectly innocent, and having nothing +to do with the Turks. + +My quarters in the town were near an open quadrangular space about +eighty yards square, inclosed upon all sides, but having a narrow +entrance to the main street. The Turks were scattered about in the +neighbouring lanes, their time passed in drinking merissa, and +quarrelling with the natives and with each other. + +The day after Ibrahim's departure, the Turks seized some jars of water +by force from the women on their return from the stream. A row ensued, +and ended by one of the women being shamefully maltreated; and a +Latooka, who came to her assistance, was severely beaten. This I did not +see, but it was reported to me. I called Suleiman, and told him that if +such things were permitted it would entail a fight with the natives, in +which I should not allow my men to join; that I prohibited my men from +taking anything from the Latookas without just payment: thus, should a +fight be caused by the conduct of his people, they must get out of it as +they best could. + +A bad feeling already existed between the natives and his people, owing +to the defeat of the party of Mahommed Her. Much good management was +required to avoid a collision, and the reverse was certain to cause an +outbreak. Shortly before dusk the women were again assaulted on their +return with water from the stream. One of Ibrahim's soldiers threatened +a powerful-looking Amazon with his stick because she refused to deliver +up her jar of water that she had carried about a mile for her own +requirements. Upon seeing this my pretty friend, Bokke, the chief's +wife, seized the soldier by the throat, wrested the stick from him, +while another woman disarmed him of his gun. Other women then set upon +him, and gave him a most ignominious shaking; while some gathered up mud +from the gutter and poured it down the barrel of his gun until they +effectually choked it; not content with this, they plastered large +masses of mud over the locks and trigger. + +I looked on with enjoyment at the thorough discomfiture of the Turk. The +news quickly spread, and in revenge for his disgrace his comrades +severely beat some women at some distance from the camp. I heard +screams, and shouts, and a confused noise; and upon my arrival outside +the town, I saw large numbers of natives running from all quarters, and +collecting together with lances and shields. I felt sure that we were to +be involved in a general outbreak. However, the Turks beat the drum, and +collected their men, so that in a few minutes no straggler was in the +town. + +It was remarkably unpleasant to be dragged into a row by the conduct of +these brutal traders, with whom I had nothing in common, and who, should +a fight actually occur, would be certain to behave as cowards. The +Latookas would make no distinction between me and them, in the event of +an attack, as they would naturally class all strangers and new comers +with the hated Turks. + +It was about 5 P.M. one hour before sunset. The woman who usually +brought us water delivered her jar, but disappeared immediately after +without sweeping the courtyard as was her custom. Her children, who +usually played in this inclosure, had vanished. On searching her hut, +which was in one corner of the yard, no one was to be found, and even +the grinding-stone was gone. Suspecting that something was in the wind, +I sent Karka and Gaddum Her, the two black servants, to search in +various huts in the neighbourhood to observe if the owners were present, +and whether the women were in their houses. Not a woman could be found. +Neither woman nor child remained in the large town of Tarrangolle. There +was an extraordinary stillness where usually all was noise and +chattering. All the women and children had been removed to the mountains +about two miles distant, and this so quickly and noiselessly that it +appeared incredible. I immediately sent to the house of the chief, and +requested his attendance. There were two chiefs, brothers; Moy was the +greater in point of rank, but his brother, Commoro, had more actual +authority with the people. I was glad that the latter appeared. + +I sent to request an interpreter from the Turks, and upon his arrival I +asked Commoro why the women and children had been removed. He replied, +"That the Turks were so brutal that he could not prevail upon his people +to endure it any longer; their women were robbed and beaten, and they +were all so ill-treated, that he, as their chief, had no longer any +control over them; and that the odium of having introduced the Turks to +Latooka was thrown upon him." I asked him whether any of my men had +misbehaved. I explained that I should flog any one of my men who should +steal the merest trifle from his people, or insult any women. All my men +were in dark-brown uniforms. He said, "That none of the men with the +brown clothes had been complained of, but that his people had taken a +dislike to all strangers, owing to the conduct of the Turks, and that he +could not answer for the consequences." + +There was a division among his own people, some wishing to fight and to +serve the Turks as the Latookas had served the party of Mahommed Her, +and others yielding to his advice, and agreeing to remain quiet. + +I inquired whether the chief, Moy, intended peace or war. He said, "That +Bokke, his wife, had made him very angry against the Turks by describing +their conduct towards the women." + +This was rather an unsatisfactory state of things. Commoro departed, +frankly admitting that the natives were much excited and wished to +attack, but that he would do his best with them. + +These rascally TRADERS set every country in a blaze by their brutal +conduct, and rendered exploring, not only most dangerous but next to +impossible, without an exceedingly powerful force. + +The sun set; and, as usual in tropical climates, darkness set in within +half an hour. Not a woman had returned to the town, nor was the voice of +a man to be heard. The natives had entirely forsaken the portion of the +town that both I and the Turks occupied. The night was perfectly calm, +and the stars shone so brightly, that I took an observation for the +latitude--4 degrees 30 minutes. There was a death-like stillness in +the air. Even the Turks, who were usually uproarious, were perfectly +quiet, and although my men made no remark, it was plain that we were all +occupied by the same thoughts, and that an attack was expected. + +It was about 9 o'clock, and the stillness had become almost painful. +There was no cry of a bird; not even the howl of a hyena: the camels +were sleeping; but every man was wide awake, and the sentries well on +the alert. We were almost listening at the supernatural stillness, if I +may so describe the perfect calm, when, suddenly, every one startled at +the deep and solemn boom of the great war-drum, or nogara! Three +distinct beats, at slow intervals, rang through the apparently deserted +town, and echoed loudly from the neighbouring mountain. It was the +signal! A few minutes elapsed, and like a distant echo from the north +the three mournful tones again distinctly sounded. Was it an echo? +Impossible. Now from the south, far distant, but unmistakeable, the same +three regular beats came booming through the still night air. Again and +again, from every quarter, spreading far and wide, the signal was +responded; and the whole country echoed those three solemn notes so full +of warning. Once more the great nogara of Tarrangolle sounded the +original alarm within a few hundred paces of our quarters. The whole +country was up. + +There was no doubt about the matter. The Turks well knew those three +notes were the war-signal of the Latookas. I immediately called +Suleiman. It was necessary to act in unison. I ordered him to beat the +drum loudly for about five minutes to answer the nogara. His men were +all scattered in several small inclosures. I called them all out into +the open quadrangle; in the centre of which I placed the baggage, and +planted the English ensign in the middle, while the Turks fixed their +flag within a few paces. Posting sentries at each corner of the square, +I stationed patrols in the principal street. In the meantime Mrs. Baker +had laid out upon a mat several hundred cartridges of buck-shot, +powder-flasks, wadding, and opened several boxes of caps, all of which +were neatly arranged for a reserve of ammunition; while a long row of +first-class double guns and rifles lay in readiness. The boy Saat was +full of fight, and immediately strapped on his belt and cartouche-box, +and took his stand among the men. + +I ordered the men, in the event of an attack, to immediately set fire to +all the huts around the quadrangle; in which case the sudden rush of a +large body of men would be impossible, and the huts being of straw, the +town would be quickly in a blaze. + +Everything was in order to resist an attack in five minutes from the +sounding of the nogara. + +The patrols shortly reported that large bodies of men were collecting +outside the town. The great nogara again beat, and was answered at +intervals as before from the neighbouring villages; but the Turks' drum +kept up an uninterrupted roll as a challenge whenever the nogara +sounded. Instead of the intense stillness that had formerly been almost +painful, a distinct hum of distant voices betokened the gathering of +large bodies of men. However, we were well fortified; and the Latookas +knew it. We occupied the very stronghold that they had themselves +constructed for the defence of their town; and the square being +surrounded with strong iron-wood palisades with only a narrow entrance, +would be impregnable when held, as now, by fifty men well armed with +guns against a mob whose best weapons were only lances. I sent men up +the watchmen's stations; these were about twenty-five feet high; and the +night being clear, they could distinctly report the movements of a dark +mass of natives that were ever increasing on the outside of the town at +about two hundred yards' distance. The rattle of the Turks' drum +repeatedly sounded in reply to the nogara, and the intended attack +seemed destined to relapse into a noisy but empty battle of the drums. + +A few hours passed in uncertainty, when, at about midnight, the chief +Commoro came fearlessly to the patrol, and was admitted to the +quadrangle. He seemed greatly struck with the preparations for defence, +and explained that the nogara had been beaten without his orders, and +accordingly the whole country had risen; but that he had explained to +the people that I had no hostile intentions, and that all would be well +if they only kept the peace. He said they certainly had intended to +attack us, and were surprised that we were prepared, as proved by the +immediate reply of the Turks' drum to their nogara. He assured us that +he would not sleep that night, but would watch that nothing should +happen. I assured him that we should also keep awake, but should the +nogara sound once more I should give orders to my men to set fire to the +town, as I should not allow the natives to make use of such threats with +impunity. I agreed to use what little interest I had to keep the Turks +in order, but that I must not be held responsible by the natives for +their proceedings, as I was not of their country, neither had I anything +to do with them. I explained, that upon Ibrahim's return from Gondokoro +things might improve, as he was the captain of the Turks, and might be +able to hold his men in command. Commoro departed, and about 2 A.M. the +dense crowds of armed men that had accumulated outside the town began to +disperse. + +The morning broke and saw the men still under arms, but the excitement +had passed. The women soon reappeared with their water jars as usual, +but on this occasion they were perfectly unmolested by the Turks, who, +having passed the night in momentary expectation of an attack, were now +upon their best behaviour. However, I heard them muttering among +themselves, "Wait until Ibrahim returns with reinforcements and +ammunition, and we will pay the Latookas for last night." + +The town filled; and the Latookas behaved as though nothing out of the +common had occurred; but when questioned, they coolly confessed that +they had intended to surprise us, but that we were too "wide awake.". It +is extraordinary that these fellows are so stupid as to beat the drum or +nogara before the attack, as it naturally gives the alarm, and renders a +surprise impossible; nevertheless, the war-drum is always a preliminary +step to hostilities. I now resolved to camp outside the town, so as not +to be mixed up in any way with the Turks, whose presence was certain to +create enmity. Accordingly I engaged a number of natives to cut thorns, +and to make a zareeba, or camp, about four hundred yards from the main +entrance of the town, on the road to the stream of water. In a few days +it was completed, and I constructed houses for my men, and two good huts +for ourselves. Having a supply of garden seeds, I arranged a few beds, +which I sowed with onions, cabbages, and radishes. My camp was eighty +yards long, and forty wide. My horses were picqueted in two corners, +while the donkeys and camels occupied the opposite extremity. We now +felt perfectly independent. I had masses of supplies, and I resolved to +work round to the south-west whenever it might be possible, and thus to +recover the route that I had originally proposed for my journey south. +My present difficulty was the want of an interpreter. The Turks had +several, and I hoped that on the return of Ibrahim from Gondokoro I +might induce him to lend me a Bari lad for some consideration. For the +present I was obliged to send to the Turks' camp and borrow an +interpreter whenever I required one, which was both troublesome and +expensive. + +Although I was willing to purchase all supplies with either beads or +copper bracelets, I found it was impossible to procure meat. The natives +refused to sell either cattle or goats. This was most tantalizing, as +not less than 10,000 head of cattle filed by my camp every morning as +they were driven from the town to pasturage. All this amount of beef +paraded before me, and did not produce a steak! Milk was cheap and +abundant; fowl were scarce; corn was plentiful; vegetables were unknown; +not even pumpkins were grown by the Latookas. + +Fortunately there was an abundance of small game in the shape of wild +ducks, pigeons, doves; and a great variety of birds such as herons, +cranes, spoonbills, &c. Travellers should always take as large a supply +of shot as possible. I had four hundred weight, and prodigious +quantities of powder and caps: thus I could at all times kill sufficient +game for ourselves and people. There were a series of small marshy pools +scattered over the country near the stream that ran through the valley; +these were the resort of numerous ducks, which afforded excellent sport. +The town of Tarrangolle is situated at the foot of the mountain, about a +mile from the stream, which is about eighty yards wide, but shallow. In +the dry weather, water is obtained by wells dug in the sandy bed, but +during the rains it is a simple torrent not exceeding three feet in +depth. The bed being sandy, the numerous banks, left dry by the +fluctuations of the stream, are most inviting spots for ducks; and it +was only necessary to wait under a tree, on the river's bank, to obtain +thirty or forty shots in one morning as the ducks flew down the course +of the stream. I found two varieties: the small brown duck with a grey +head; and a magnificent variety, as large as the Muscovy, having a +copper-and-blue coloured tinselled back and wings, with a white but +speckled head and neck. This duck had a curious peculiarity in a fleshy +protuberance on the beak about as large as a half-crown. This stands +erect, like a cock's comb. Both this, and the smaller variety, were +delicious eating. There were two varieties of geese--the only two that +I have ever seen on the White Nile--the common Egyptian grey goose, and +a large black and white bird with a crimson head and neck, and a red and +yellow horny protuberance on the top of the head. This variety has a +sharp spur upon the wing an inch long, and exceedingly powerful; it is +used as a weapon of defence for striking, like the spurred wing of the +plover. + +I frequeutly shot ten or twelve ducks, and as many cranes, before +breakfast; among others the beautiful crested crane, called by the Arabs +"garranook." The black velvet head of this crane, surrounded by a golden +crest, was a favourite ornament of the Latookas, and they were +immediately arranged as crests for their helmets. The neighbourhood of +my camp would have made a fortune for a feather-dealer; it was literally +strewn with down and plumes. I was always attended every morning by a +number of Latooka boys, who were eager sportsmen, and returned to camp +daily laden with ducks and geese. + +No sooner did we arrive in camp than a number of boys volunteered to +pluck the birds, which they did for the sake of the longest feathers, +with which they immediately decked their woolly heads. Crowds of boys +were to be seen with heads like cauliflowers, all dressed with the +feathers of cranes and wild ducks. It appears to be accepted, both by +the savage and civilized, that birds' feathers are specially intended +for ornamenting the human head. + +It was fortunate that Nature had thus stocked Latooka with game. It was +impossible to procure any other meat; and not only were the ducks and +geese to us what the quails were to the Israelites in the desert, but +they enabled me to make presents to the natives that assured them of our +good will. + +Although the Latookas were far better than other tribes that I had met, +they were sufficiently annoying; they gave me no credit for real good +will, but they attributed my forbearance to weakness. On one occasion +Adda, one of the chiefs, came to ask me to join him in attacking a +village to procure molotes (iron hoes); he said, "Come along with me, +bring your men and guns, and we will attack a village near here, and +take their molotes and cattle; you keep the cattle, and I will have the +molotes." I asked him whether the village was in an enemy's country. "Oh +no!" he replied, "it is close here; but the people are rather +rebellious, and it will do them good to kill a few, and to take their +molotes. If you are afraid, never mind, I will ask the Turks to do it." +Thus forbearance on my part was supposed to be caused from weakness, and +it was difficult to persuade them that it originated in a feeling of +justice. This Adda most coolly proposed that we should plunder one of +his own villages that was rather too "liberal" in its views. Nothing is +more heartbreaking than to be so thoroughly misunderstood, and the +obtuseness of the savages was such, that I never could make them +understand the existence of good principle;--their one idea was +"power,"--force that could obtain all--the strong hand that could wrest +from the weak. In disgust I frequently noted the feelings of the moment +in my journal--a memorandum from which I copy as illustrative of the +time. "1863, 10th April, Latooka.--I wish the black sympathisers in +England could see Africa's inmost heart as I do, much of their sympathy +would subside. Human nature viewed in its crude state as pictured +amongst African savages is quite on a level with that of the brute, and +not to be compared with the noble character of the dog. There is neither +gratitude, pity, love, nor self-denial; no idea of duty; no religion; +but covetousness, ingratitude, selfishness and cruelty. All are thieves, +idle, envious, and ready to plunder and enslave their weaker +neighbours." + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +THE FUNERAL DANCE. + +Drums were beating, horns blowing, and people were seen all running in +one direction;--the cause was a funeral dance, and I joined the crowd, +and soon found myself in the midst of the entertainment. The dancers +were most grotesquely got up. About a dozen huge ostrich feathers +adorned their helmets; either leopard or the black and white monkey +skins were suspended from their shoulders, and a leather tied round the +waist covered a large iron bell which was strapped upon the loins of +each dancer, like a woman's old-fashioned bustle: this they rung to the +time of the dance by jerking their posteriors in the most absurd manner. +A large crowd got up in this style created an indescribable hubbub, +heightened by the blowing of horns and the beating of seven nogaras of +various notes. Every dancer wore an antelope's horn suspended round the +neck, which he blew occasionally in the height of his excitement. These +instruments produced a sound partaking of the braying of a donkey and +the screech of an owl. Crowds of men rushed round and round in a sort of +"galop infernel," brandishing their lances and iron-headed maces, and +keeping tolerably in line five or six deep, following the leader who +headed them, dancing backwards. The women kept outside the line, dancing +a slow stupid step, and screaming a wild and most inharmonious chant; +while a long string of young girls and small children, their heads and +necks rubbed with red ochre and grease, and prettily ornamented with +strings of beads around their loins, kept a very good line, beating the +time with their feet, and jingling the numerous iron rings which adorned +their ankles to keep time with the drums. One woman attended upon the +men, running through the crowd with a gourd full of wood-ashes, handfuls +of which she showered over their heads, powdering them like millers; the +object of the operation I could not understand. The "premiere danseuse" +was immensely fat; she had passed the bloom of youth, but, "malgre" her +unwieldy state, she kept up the pace to the last, quite unconscious of +her general appearance, and absorbed with the excitement of the dance. + +These festivities were to be continued in honour of the dead; and as +many friends had recently been killed, music and dancing would be in +fashion for some weeks. + +There was an excellent interpreter belonging to Ibrahim's party--a Bari +lad of about eighteen. This boy had been in their service for some +years, and had learnt Arabic, which he spoke fluently, although with a +peculiar accent, owing to the extraction of the four front teeth of the +lower jaw, according to the general custom. It was of great importance +to obtain the confidence of Loggo, as my success depended much upon +information that I might obtain from the natives; therefore, whenever I +sent for him to hold any conversation with the people, I invariably gave +him a little present at parting. Accordingly he obeyed any summons from +me with great alacrity, knowing that the interview would terminate with +a "baksheesh" (present). In this manner I succeeded in establishing +confidence, and he would frequently come uncalled to my tent and +converse upon all manner of subjects. The Latooka language is different +to the Bari, and a second interpreter was necessary; this was a sharp +lad about the same age: thus the conversation was somewhat tedious, the +medium being Bari and Latooka. + +The chief Commoro (the "Lion") was one of the most clever and +common-sense savages that I had seen in these countries, and the tribe +paid far more deference to his commands than to those of his brother, +"Moy," although the latter was the superior in rank. + +One day I sent for Commoro after the usual funeral dance was completed, +and, through my two young interpreters, I had a long conversation with +him on the customs of his country. I wished if possible to fathom the +origin of the extraordinary custom of exhuming the body after burial, as +I imagined that in this act some idea might be traced to a belief in the +resurrection. + +Commoro was, like all his people, extremely tall. Upon entering my tent +he took his seat upon the ground, the Latookas not using stools like the +other White Nile tribes. I commenced the conversation by complimenting +him on the perfection of his wives and daughters in the dance, and on +his own agility in the performance; and inquired for whom the ceremony +had been performed. + +He replied, that it was for a man who had been recently killed, but no +one of great importance, the same ceremony being observed for every +person without distinction. I asked him why those slain in battle were +allowed to remain unburied. He said, it had always been the custom, but +that he could not explain it. + +"But," I replied, "why should you disturb the bones of those whom you +have already buried, and expose them on the outskirts of the town?" + +"It was the custom of our forefathers," he answered, "therefore we +continue to observe it." + +"Have you no belief in a future existence after death? Is not some idea +expressed in the act of exhuming the bones after the flesh is decayed?" + +Commoro (loq.).--"Existence AFTER death! How can that be? Can a dead man +get out of his grave, unless we dig him out?" + +"Do you think man is like a beast, that dies and is ended?" + +Commoro.--"Certainly; an ox is stronger than a man; but he dies, and his +bones last longer; they are bigger. A man's bones break quickly--he is +weak." + +"Is not a man superior in sense to an ox? Has he not a mind to direct +his actions?" + +Commoro.--"Some men are not so clever as an ox. Men must sow corn to +obtain food, but the ox and wild animals can procure it without sowing." + +"Do you not know that there is a spirit within you more than flesh? Do +you not dream and wander in thought to distant places in your sleep? +Nevertheless, your body rests in one spot. How do you account for this?" + +Commoro (laughing).--"Well, how do YOU account for it? It is a thing I +cannot understand; it occurs to me every night." + +"The mind is independent of the body; the actual body can be fettered, +but the mind is uncontrollable; the body will die and will become dust, +or be eaten by vultures, but the spirit will exist for ever." + +Commoro.--"Where will the spirit live?" + +"Where does fire live? Cannot you produce a fire (The natives always +produce fire by rubbing two sticks together.) by rubbing two sticks +together, yet you SEE not the fire in the wood. Has not that fire, that +lies harmless and unseen in the sticks, the power to consume the whole +country? Which is the stronger, the small stick that first PRODUCES the +fire, or the fire itself? So is the spirit the element within the body, +as the element of fire exists in the stick; the element being superior +to the substance." + +Commoro.--"Ha! Can you explain what we frequently see at night when lost +in the wilderness? I have myself been lost, and wandering in the dark, I +have seen a distant fire; upon approaching, the fire has vanished, and I +have been unable to trace the cause--nor could I find the spot." + +"Have you no idea of the existence of spirits superior to either man or +beast? Have you no fear of evil except from bodily causes?" + +Commoro.--"I am afraid of elephants and other animals when in the jungle +at night, but of nothing else." + +"Then you believe in nothing; neither in a good nor evil spirit! And you +believe that when you die it will be the end of body and spirit; that +you are like other animals; and that there is no distinction between man +and beast; both disappear, and end at death?" + +Commoro.--"Of course they do." + +"Do you see no difference in good and bad actions?" Commoro.--"Yes, +there are good and bad in men and beasts." + +"Do you think that a good man and a bad must share the same fate, and +alike die, and end?" + +Commoro.--"Yes; what else can they do? How can they help dying? Good and +bad all die." + +"Their bodies perish, but their spirits remain; the good in happiness, +the bad in misery. If you have no belief in a future state, WHY SHOULD A +MAN BE GOOD? Why should he not be bad, if he can prosper by wickedness?" + +Commoro.--"Most people are bad; if they are strong they take from the +weak. The good people are all weak; they are good because they are not +strong enough to be bad." + +Some corn had been taken out of a sack for the horses, and a few grains +lying scattered on the ground, I tried the beautiful metaphor of St. +Paul as an example of a future state. Making a small hole with my finger +in the ground, I placed a grain within it: "That," I said, "represents +you when you die." Covering it with earth, I continued, "That grain will +decay, but from it will rise the plant that will produce a reappearance +of the original form." + +Commoro.--"Exactly so; that I understand. But the ORIGINAL grain does +NOT rise again; it rots like the dead man, and is ended; the fruit +produced is not the same grain that we buried, but the PRODUCTION of +that grain: so it is with man--I die, and decay, and am ended; but my +children grow up like the fruit of the grain. Some men have no children, +and some grains perish without fruit; then all are ended." + +I was obliged to change the subject of conversation. In this wild naked +savage there was not even a superstition upon which to found a religious +feeling; there was a belief in matter; and to his understanding +everything was MATERIAL. It was extraordinary to find so much clearness +of perception combined with such complete obtuseness to anything ideal. + +Giving up the religious argument as a failure, I resolved upon more +practical inquiries. + +The Turks had only arrived in the Latooka country in the preceding year. +They had not introduced the cowrie shell; but I observed that every +helmet was ornamented with this species; it therefore occurred to me +that they must find their way into the country from Zanzibar. + +In reply to my inquiries, Commoro pointed to the south, from which he +said they arrived in his country, but he had no idea from whence they +came. The direction was sufficient to prove that they must be sent from +the east coast, as Speke and Grant had followed the Zanzibar traders as +far as Karagwe, the 2 degrees S. lat. + +Commoro could not possibly understand my object in visiting the Latooka +country; it was in vain that I attempted to explain the intention of my +journey. He said, "Suppose you get to the great lake; what will you do +with it? What will be the good of it? If you find that the large river +does flow from it, what then? What's the good of it?" + +I could only assure him, that in England we had an intimate knowledge of +the whole world, except the interior of Africa, and that our object in +exploring was to benefit the hitherto unknown countries by instituting +legitimate trade, and introducing manufactures from England in exchange +for ivory and other productions. He replied that the Turks would never +trade fairly; that they were extremely bad people, and that they would +not purchase ivory in any other way than by bartering cattle, which they +stole from one tribe to sell to another. + +Our conversation was suddenly terminated by one of my men running in to +the tent with the bad news that one of the camels had dropped down and +was dying. The report was too true. He was poisoned by a well-known +plant that he had been caught in the act of eating. In a few hours he +died. There is no more stupid animal than the camel. Nature has +implanted in most animals an instinctive knowledge of the plants +suitable for food, and they generally avoid those that are poisonous: +but the camel will eat indiscriminately anything that is green; and if +in a country where the plant exists that is well known by the Arabs as +the "camel poison," watchers must always accompany the animals while +grazing. The most fatal plant is a creeper, very succulent, and so +beautifully green that its dense foliage is most attractive to the +stupid victim. The stomach of the camel is very subject to inflammation, +which is rapidly fatal. I have frequently seen them, after several days +of sharp desert marching, arrive in good pasture, and die, within a few +hours, of inflammation caused by repletion. It is extraordinary how they +can exist upon the driest and apparently most innutritious food. When +other animals are starving, the camel manages to pick up a subsistence, +eating the ends of barren, leafless twigs, the dried sticks of certain +shrubs, and the tough dry paper-like substance of the dome palm, about +as succulent a breakfast as would be a green umbrella and a Times +newspaper. With intense greediness the camel, although a hermit in +simplicity of fare in hard times, feeds voraciously when in abundant +pasture, always seeking the greenest shrubs. The poison-bush becomes a +fatal bait. + +The camel is by no means well understood in Europe. Far from being the +docile and patient animal generally described, it is quite the reverse, +and the males are frequently dangerous. They are exceedingly perverse; +and are, as before described, excessively stupid. For the great deserts +they are wonderfully adapted, and without them it would be impossible to +cross certain tracts of country for want of water. + +Exaggerated accounts have been written respecting the length of time +that a camel can travel without drinking. The period that the animal can +subsist without suffering from thirst depends entirely upon the season +and the quality of food. Precisely as in Europe sheep require but little +water when fed upon turnips, so does the camel exist almost without +drinking during the rainy season when pastured upon succulent and dewy +herbage. During the hottest season, when green herbage ceases to exist +in the countries inhabited by camels, they are led to water every +alternate day, thus they are supposed to drink once in forty-eight +hours; but when upon the march across deserts, where no water exists, +they are expected to carry a load of from five to six hundred pounds, +and to march twenty-five miles per day, for three days, without +drinking, but to be watered on the fourth day. Thus a camel should drink +the evening before the start, and he will carry his load one hundred +miles without the necessity of drinking; not, however, without suffering +from thirst. On the third day's march, during the hot simoom, the camel +should drink if possible; but he can endure the fourth day. + +This peculiarity of constitution enables the camel to overcome obstacles +of nature that would otherwise be insurmountable. Not only can he travel +over the scorching sand of the withering deserts, but he never seeks the +shade. When released from his burden he kneels by his load in the +burning sand, and luxuriates in the glare of a sun that drives all other +beasts to shelter. The peculiar spongy formation of the foot renders the +camel exceedingly sure, although it is usual to believe that it is only +adapted for flat, sandy plains. I have travelled over mountains so +precipitous that no domestic animal but the camel could have +accomplished the task with a load. This capability is not shared +generally by the race, but by a breed belonging to the Hadendowa Arabs, +between the Red Sea and Taka. There is quite as great a variety in the +breeds of camels as of horses. Those most esteemed in the Soudan are the +Bishareen; they are not so large as others, but are exceedingly strong +and enduring. + +The average value of a baggage camel among the Soudan Arabs is fifteen +dollars, but a good "hygeen," or riding dromedary, is worth from fifty +to a hundred and fifty dollars, according to his capabilities. A +thoroughly good hygeen is supposed to travel fifty miles a day, and to +continue this pace for five days, carrying only his rider and a small +water-skin or girba. His action should be so easy that his long ambling +trot should produce that peculiar movement adopted by a nurse when +hushing a child to sleep upon her knee. This movement is delightful, and +the quick elastic step of a first-class animal imparts an invigorating +spirit to the rider; and were it not for the intensity of the sun, he +would willingly ride for ever. The difference of action and of comfort +to the rider between a common camel and a high class hygeen is equal to +that between a thoroughbred and a heavy dray-horse. + +However, with all the good qualities of a "Bishareen," my best camel was +dead. This was a sad loss. So long as my animals were well I felt +independent, and the death of this camel was equal to minus five cwt. of +luggage. My men were so idle that they paid no attention to the animals, +and the watcher who had been appointed to look after the four camels had +amused himself by going to the Latooka dance. Thus was the loss of my +best animal occasioned. + +So well had all my saddles and pads been arranged at Khartoum, that +although we had marched seven days with exceedingly heavy loads, not one +of the animals had a sore back. The donkeys were exceedingly fresh, but +they had acquired a most disgusting habit. The Latookas are remarkably +clean in their towns, and nothing unclean is permitted within the +stockade or fence. Thus the outside, especially the neighbourhood of the +various entrances, was excessively filthy, and my donkeys actually +fattened as scavengers, like pigs. I remembered that my unfortunate +German Johann Schmidt had formerly told me that he was at one time +shooting in the Base country, where the grass had been burnt, and not a +blade of vegetation was procurable. He had abundance of sport, and he +fed his donkey upon the flesh of antelopes, which he ate with avidity, +and throve exceedingly. It is a curious fact that donkeys should under +certain circumstances become omnivorous, while horses remain clean +feeders. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +LATOOKA. + +The country in the immediate neighbourhood of Latooka was parched, as +there had been no rain for some time. The latitude was 4 degrees 35', +longitude 32 degrees 55' E.; the rains had commenced in February on the +mountains on the south side of the valley, about eighteen miles distant. +Every day there was an appearance of a storm; the dark clouds gathered +ominously around the peak of the Gebel Lafeet above the town, but they +were invariably attracted by the higher range on the opposite and south +side of the valley, where they daily expended themselves at about 3 P.M. +On that side of the valley the mountains rose to about 6,000 feet, and +formed a beautiful object seen from my camp. It was most interesting to +observe the embryo storms travel from Tarrangolle in a circle, and +ultimately crown the higher range before us, while the thunder roared +and echoed from rock to rock across the plain. + +The Latookas assured me that at the foot of those mountains there were +elephants and giraffes in abundance; accordingly, I determined to make a +reconnaissance of the country. + +On the following morning I started on horseback, with two of my people +mounted, and a native guide, and rode through the beautiful valley of +Latooka to the foot of the range. The first five or six miles were +entirely de-pastured by the enormous herds of the Latookas who were +driven to that distance from the towns daily, all the country in the +immediate vicinity being dried up. The valley was extremely fertile, but +totally unoccupied and in a state of nature, being a wilderness of open +plains, jungles, patches of forest and gullies, that although dry +evidently formed swamps during the wet season. When about eight miles +from the town we came upon tracks of the smaller antelopes, which, +although the weakest, are the most daring in approaching the habitations +of man. A few miles farther on, we saw buffaloes and hartebeest, and +shortly came upon tracks of giraffes. Just at this moment the inky +clouds that as usual had gathered over Tarrangolle came circling around +us, and presently formed so dense a canopy that the darkness was like a +partial eclipse. The thunder warned us with tremendous explosions just +above us, while the lightning flashed almost at our feet with blinding +vividness. A cold wind suddenly rushed through the hitherto calm air; +this is the certain precursor of rain in hot climates, the heavier cold +air of the rain-cloud falling into the stratum of warmer and lighter +atmosphere below. + +It DID rain--in such torrents as only the inhabitants of tropical +countries can understand. "Cover up the gun-locks!"--and the pieces of +mackintosh for that purpose were immediately secured in their places. +Well, let it rain!--it is rather pleasant to be wet through in a country +where the thermometer is seldom below 92 degrees Fahr., especially when +there is no doubt of getting wet through--not like the wretched +drizzling rain of England, that chills you with the fear that perhaps +your great-coat is not waterproof, but a regular douche bath that would +beat in the crown of a cheap hat. How delightful to be really cool in +the centre of Africa! I was charmingly wet--the water was running out of +the heels of my shoes, which were overflowing; the wind howled over the +flood that was pouring through the hitherto dry gullies, and in the +course of ten minutes the whole scene had changed. It was no longer the +tropics; the climate was that of old England restored to me: the chilled +air refreshed me, and I felt at home again. "How delightful!" I +exclaimed, as I turned round to see how my followers were enjoying it. + +Dear me! I hardly knew my own people. Of all the miserable individuals I +ever saw, they were superlative--they were not enjoying the change of +climate in the least--with heads tucked down and streams of water +running from their nasal extremities, they endeavoured to avoid the +storm. Perfectly thoughtless of all but self in the extremity of their +misery, they had neglected the precaution of lowering the muzzles of +their guns, and my beautiful No. 10 rifles were full of water. "Charming +day!" I exclaimed to my soaked and shivering followers, who looked like +kittens in a pond. They muttered something that might be interpreted +"What's fun to you is death to us." I comforted them with the assurance +that this was an English climate on a midsummer day. If my clothed Arabs +suffered from cold, where was my naked guide? He was the most pitiable +object I ever saw; with teeth chattering and knees knocking together +with cold, he crouched under the imaginary shelter of a large tamarind +tree; he was no longer the clean black that had started as my guide, but +the cold and wet had turned him grey, and being thin, he looked like an +exaggerated slate-pencil. Not wishing to discourage my men, I +unselfishly turned back just as I was beginning to enjoy myself, and my +people regarded me as we do the Polar bear at the Zoological Gardens, +who begins to feel happy on the worst day in our English winter. + +We returned home by a different route, not being able to find the path +in the trackless state of the country during the storm. There were in +some places unmistakeable evidences of the presence of elephants, and I +resolved to visit the spot again. I returned to the tent at 4 P.M. +satisfied that sport was to be had. + +On my arrival at camp I found the natives very excited at the appearance +of rain, which they firmly believed had been called specially by their +chief. All were busy preparing their molotes (iron hoes), fitting new +handles, and getting everything ready for the periodical sowing of their +crop. + +The handles of the molotes are extremely long, from seven to ten feet, +and the instrument being shaped like a miner's spade (heart-shaped), is +used like a Dutch hoe, and is an effective tool in ground that has been +cleared, but is very unfitted for preparing fresh soil. Iron ore of good +quality exists on the surface throughout this country. + +The Latookas, like the Baris, are excellent blacksmiths, producing a +result that would astonish an English workman, considering the rough +nature of their tools, which are confined to a hammer, anvil, and tongs; +the latter formed of a cleft-stick of green wood, while the two former +are stones of various sizes. Their bellows consist of two pots about a +foot deep; from the bottom of each is an earthenware pipe about two feet +long, the points of which are inserted in a charcoal fire. The mouths of +the pots are covered with very pliable leather, loose and well greased; +in the centre of each leather covering is an upright stick about four +feet long, and the bellows-blower works these rapidly with a +perpendicular motion, thus producing a strong blast. The natives are +exceedingly particular in the shape of their molotes, and invariably +prove them by balancing them on their heads and ringing them by a blow +with the finger. + +The Latookas being much engaged in preparing for cultivation, I had some +difficulty in arranging a hunting party; my men abhorred the idea of +elephant hunting, or of anything else that required hard work and +included danger. However, I succeeded in engaging Adda, the third chief +of Latooka, and several natives, to act as my guides, and I made my +arrangements for a stated day. + +On the 17th of April I started at 5 A.M. with my three horses and two +camels, the latter carrying water and food. After a march of two or +three hours through the beautiful hunting-grounds formed by the valley +of Latooka, with its alternate prairies and jungles, I came upon the +tracks of rhinoceros, giraffes, and elephants, and shortly moved a +rhinoceros, but could get no shot, owing to the thick bush in which he +started and disappeared quicker than I could dismount. After a short +circuit in search of the rhinoceros, we came upon a large herd of +buffaloes, but at the same moment we heard elephants trumpeting at the +foot of the mountains. Not wishing to fire, lest the great game should +be disturbed, I contented myself with riding after the buffaloes, +wonderfully followed on foot by Adda, who ran like a deer, and almost +kept up with my horse, hurling his three lances successively at the +buffaloes, but without success. I had left the camels in an open plain, +and returning from the gallop after the buffaloes, I saw the men on the +camels beckoning to me in great excitement. + +Cantering towards them, they explained that a herd of bull elephants had +just crossed an open space, and had passed into the jungle beyond. There +was evidently abundance of game; and calling my men together, I told +them to keep close to me with the spare horses and rifles, while I sent +the Latookas ahead to look out for the elephants: we followed at a short +distance. + +In about ten minutes we saw the Latookas hurrying towards us, and almost +immediately after, I saw two enormous bull elephants with splendid tusks +about a hundred yards from us, apparently the leaders of an approaching +herd. The ground was exceedingly favourable, being tolerably open, and +yet with sufficient bush to afford a slight cover. Presently, several +elephants appeared and joined the two leaders--there was evidently a +considerable number in the herd, and I was on the point of dismounting +to take the first shot on foot, when the Latookas, too eager, approached +the herd: their red and blue helmets at once attracted the attention of +the elephants, and a tremendous rush took place, the whole herd closing +together and tearing off at full speed. "Follow me!" I hallooed to my +men, and touching my horse with the spur, I intended to dash into the +midst of the herd. Just at that instant, in his start, my horse slipped +and fell suddenly upon his side, falling upon my right leg and thus +pinning me to the ground. He was not up to my weight, and releasing +myself, I immediately mounted my old Abyssinian hunter, "Tetel," and +followed the tracks of the elephants at full speed, accompanied by two +of the Latookas, who ran like hounds. Galloping through the green but +thornless bush, I soon came in sight of a grand bull elephant, steaming +along like a locomotive engine straight before me. + +Digging in the spurs, I was soon within twenty yards of him; but the +ground was so unfavourable, being full of buffalo holes, that I could +not pass him. In about a quarter of an hour, after a careful chase over +deep ruts and gullies concealed in high grass, I arrived at a level +space, and shooting ahead, I gave him a shoulder shot with the Reilly +No. 10 rifle. I saw the wound in a good place, but the bull rushed along +all the quicker, and again we came into bad ground that made it unwise +to close. However, on the first opportunity I made a dash by him, and +fired my left-hand barrel at full gallop. He slackened his speed, but I +could not halt to reload, lest I should lose sight of him in the high +grass and bush. + +Not a man was with me to hand a spare rifle. My cowardly fellows, +although light-weights and well mounted, were nowhere; the natives were +outrun, as of course was Richarn, who, not being a good rider, had +preferred to hunt on foot. In vain I shouted for the men; and I followed +the elephant with an empty rifle for about ten minutes, until he +suddenly turned round, and stood facing me in an open spot in grass +about nine or ten feet high. "Tetel" was a grand horse for elephants, +not having the slightest fear, and standing fire like a rock, never even +starting under the discharge of the heaviest charge of powder. I now +commenced reloading, when presently one of my men, Yaseen, came up upon +"Filfil." Taking a spare gun from him, I rode rapidly past the elephant, +and suddenly reining up, I made a good shot exactly behind the +bladebone. With a shrill scream, the elephant charged down upon me like +a steam-engine. In went the spurs. "Tetel" knew his work, and away he +went over the ruts and gullies, the high dry grass whistling in my ears +as we shot along at full speed, closely followed by the enraged bull for +about two hundred yards. + +The elephant then halted; and turning the horse's head, I again faced +him and reloaded. I thought he was dying, as he stood with trunk +drooping, and ears closely pressed back upon his neck. Just at this +moment I heard the rush of elephants advancing through the green bush +upon the rising ground above the hollow formed by the open space of high +withered grass in which we were standing facing each other. My man +Yaseen had bolted with his fleet horse at the first charge, and was not +to be seen. Presently, the rushing sound increased, and the heads of a +closely packed herd of about eighteen elephants showed above the low +bushes, and they broke cover, bearing down directly upon me, both I and +my horse being unobserved in the high grass. I never saw a more lovely +sight; they were all bulls with immense tusks. Waiting until they were +within twenty yards of me, I galloped straight at them, giving a yell +that turned them. Away they rushed up the hill, but at so great a pace, +that upon the rutty and broken ground I could not overtake them, and +they completely distanced me. Tetel, although a wonderfully steady +hunter, was an uncommonly slow horse, but upon this day he appeared to +be slower than usual, and I was not at the time aware that he was +seriously ill. By following three elephants separated from the herd I +came up to them by a short cut, and singling out a fellow with enormous +tusks, I rode straight at him. Finding himself overhauled, he charged me +with such quickness and followed me up so far, that it was with the +greatest difficulty that I cleared him. When he turned, I at once +returned to the attack; but he entered a thick thorny jungle through +which no horse could follow, and I failed to obtain a shot. + +I was looking for a path through which I could penetrate the bush, when +I suddenly heard natives shouting in the direction where I had left the +wounded bull. Galloping towards the spot, I met a few scattered natives; +among others, Adda. After shouting for some time, at length Yaseen +appeared upon my horse Filfil; he had fled as usual when he saw the +troop of elephants advancing, and no one knows how far he had ridden +before he thought it safe to look behind him. With two mounted gun- +bearers and five others on foot I had been entirely deserted through the +cowardice of my men. The elephant that I had left as dying, was gone. +One of the Latookas had followed upon his tracks, and we heard this +fellow shouting in the distance. I soon overtook him, and he led rapidly +upon the track through thick bushes and high grass. In about a quarter +of an hour we came up with the elephant; he was standing in bush, facing +us at about fifty yards' distance, and immediately perceiving us, he +gave a saucy jerk with his head, and charged most determinedly. It was +exceedingly difficult to escape, owing to the bushes which impeded the +horse, while the elephant crushed them like cobwebs: however, by turning +my horse sharp round a tree, I managed to evade him after a chase of +about a hundred and fifty yards. Disappearing in the jungle after his +charge, I immediately followed him. The ground was hard, and so trodden +by elephants that it was difficult to single out the track. There was no +blood upon the ground, but only on the trees every now and then, where +he had rubbed past them in his retreat. After nearly two hours passed in +slowly following upon his path, we suddenly broke cover and saw him +travelling very quietly through an extensive plain of high grass. The +ground was gently inclining upwards on either side the plain, but the +level was a mass of deep, hardened ruts, over which no horse could +gallop. Knowing my friend's character, I rode up the rising ground to +reconnoitre: I found it tolerably clear of holes, and far superior to +the rutty bottom. My two mounted gun-bearers had now joined me, and far +from enjoying the sport, they were almost green with fright, when I +ordered them to keep close to me and to advance. + +I wanted them to attract the elephant's attention, so as to enable me to +obtain a good shoulder shot. Riding along the open plain, I at length +arrived within about fifty yards of the bull, when he slowly turned. +Reining "Tetel" up, I immediately fired a steady shot at the shoulder +with the Reilly No. 10:--for a moment he fell upon his knees, but, +recovering with wonderful quickness, he was in full charge upon me. +Fortunately I had inspected my ground previous to the attack, and away I +went up the inclination to my right, the spurs hard at work, and the +elephant screaming with rage, GAINING on me. My horse felt as though +made of wood, and clumsily rolled along in a sort of cow-gallop;--in +vain I dug the spurs into his flanks, and urged him by rein and voice; +not an extra stride could I get out of him, and he reeled along as +though thoroughly exhausted, plunging in and out of the buffalo holes +instead of jumping them. Hamed was on my horse "Mouse," who went three +to "Tetel's" one, and instead of endeavouring to divert the elephant's +attention, he shot ahead, and thought of nothing but getting out of the +way. Yaseen, on "Filfil," had fled in another direction; thus I had the +pleasure of being hunted down upon a sick and disabled horse. I kept +looking round, thinking that the elephant would give in:--we had been +running for nearly half a mile, and the brute was overhauling me so fast +that he was within ten or twelve yards of the horse's tail, with his +trunk stretched out to catch him. Screaming like the whistle of an +engine, he fortunately so frightened the horse that he went his best, +although badly, and I turned him suddenly down the hill and doubled back +like a hare. The elephant turned up the hill, and entering the jungle he +relinquished the chase, when another hundred yards' run would have +bagged me. + +In a life's experience in elephant-hunting, I never was hunted for such +a distance. Great as were Tetel's good qualities for pluck and +steadiness, he had exhibited such distress and want of speed, that I was +sure he failed through some sudden malady. I immediately dismounted, and +the horse laid down, as I thought, to die. + +Whistling loudly, I at length recalled Hamed, who had still continued +his rapid flight without once looking back, although the elephant was +out of sight. Yaseen was, of course, nowhere; but after a quarter of an +hour's shouting and whistling, he reappeared, and I mounted Filfil, +ordering Tetel to be led home. + +The sun had just sunk, and the two Latookas who now joined me refused to +go farther on the tracks, saying, that the elephant must die during the +night, and that they would find him in the morning. We were at least ten +miles from camp; I therefore fired a shot to collect my scattered men, +and in about half an hour we all joined together, except the camels and +their drivers, that we had left miles behind. + +No one had tasted food since the previous day, nor had I drunk water, +although the sun had been burning hot; I now obtained some muddy rain +water from a puddle, and we went towards home, where we arrived at +half-past eight, every one tired with the day's work. The camels came +into camp about an hour later. + +My men were all now wonderfully brave; each had some story of a narrow +escape, and several declared that the elephants had run over them, but +fortunately without putting their feet upon them. + +The news spread through the town that the elephant was killed; and, long +before daybreak on the following morning, masses of natives had started +for the jungles, where they found him lying dead. Accordingly, they +stole his magnificent tusks, which they carried to the town of Wakkala, +and confessed to taking all the flesh, but laid the blame of the ivory +theft upon the Wakkala tribe. + +There was no redress. The questions of a right of game are ever prolific +of bad blood, and it was necessary in this instance to treat the matter +lightly. Accordingly, the natives requested me to go out and shoot them +another elephant: on the condition of obtaining the meat, they were +ready to join in any hunting expedition. + +The elephants in Central Africa have very superior tusks to those of +Abyssinia. I had shot a considerable number in the Base country on the +frontier of Abyssinia, and few tusks were above 30 1bs. weight; those in +the neighbourhood of the White Nile average about 50 1bs. for each tusk +of a bull elephant, while those of the females are generally about 10 +lbs. I have seen monster tusks of 160 lbs., and one was in the +possession of a trader, Mons. P., that weighed 172 1bs. + +It is seldom that a pair of tusks are alike. As a man uses the right +hand in preference to the left, so the elephant works with a particular +tusk, which is termed by the traders "el Hadam" (the servant); this is +naturally, more worn than the other, and is usually about ten pounds +lighter: frequently it is broken, as the elephant uses it as a lever to +uproot trees and to tear up the roots of various bushes upon which he +feeds. + +The African elephant is not only entirely different from the Indian +species in his habits, but he also differs in form. + +There are three distinguishing peculiarities. The back of the African +elephant is concave, that of the Indian is convex; the ear of the +African is enormous, entirely covering the shoulder when thrown back, +while the ear of the Indian variety is comparatively small. The head of +the African has a convex front, the top of the skull sloping back at a +rapid inclination, while the head of the Indian elephant exposes a flat +surface a little above the trunk. + +The average size of the African elephant is larger than those of Ceylon, +although I have occasionally shot monster rogues in the latter country, +equal to anything that I have seen in Africa. The average height of +female elephants in Ceylon is about 7 ft. 10 in. at the shoulder, and +that of the males is about 9 ft.; but the usual height of the African +variety I have found, by actual measurement, of females to be 9 ft., +while that of the bills is 10 ft. 6 in. Thus the females of the African +are equal to the males of Ceylon. + +They also differ materially in their habits. In Ceylon, the elephant +seeks the shade of thick forests at the rising of the sun, in which he +rests until about 5 P.M., when he wanders forth upon the plains. In +Africa, the country being generally more open, the elephant remains +throughout the day either beneath a solitary tree, or exposed to the sun +in the vast prairies, where the thick grass attains a height of from +nine to twelve feet. The general food of the African elephant consists +of the foliage of trees, especially of mimosas. In Ceylon, although +there are many trees that serve as food, the elephant nevertheless is an +extensive grass-feeder. The African variety, being almost exclusively a +tree-feeder, requires his tusks to assist him in procuring food. Many of +the mimosas are flat-headed, about thirty feet high, and the richer +portion of the foliage confined to the crown; thus the elephant, not +being able to reach to so great a height, must overturn the tree to +procure the coveted food. The destruction caused by a herd of African +elephants in a mimosa forest is extraordinary; and I have seen trees +uprooted of so large a size, that I am convinced no single elephant +could have overturned them. I have measured trees four feet six inches +in circumference, and about thirty feet high, uprooted by elephants. The +natives have assured me that they mutually assist each other, and that +several engage together in the work of overturning a large tree. None of +the mimosas have tap-roots; thus the powerful tusks of the elephants, +applied as crowbars at the roots, while others pull at the branches with +their trunks, will effect the destruction of a tree so large as to +appear invulnerable. The Ceylon elephant rarely possessing tusks, cannot +destroy a tree thicker than the thigh of an ordinary man. + +In Ceylon, I have seldom met old bulls in parties--they are generally +single or remain in pairs; but, in Africa, large herds are met with, +consisting entirely of bulls. I have frequently seen sixteen or twenty +splendid bulls together, presenting a show of ivory most exciting to a +hunter. The females in Africa congregate in vast herds of many hundreds, +while in Ceylon the herds seldom average more than ten. + +The elephant is by far the most formidable of all animals, and the +African variety is more dangerous than the Indian, as it is next to +impossible to kill it by the forehead shot. The head is so peculiarly +formed, that the ball either passes over the brain, or lodges in the +immensely solid bones and cartilages that contain the roots of the +tusks. I have measured certainly a hundred bull tusks, and I have found +them buried in the head a depth of 24 inches. One large tusk, that +measured 7 ft. 8 in. in length, and 22 inches in girth, was imbedded in +the head a depth of 31 inches. This will convey an idea of the enormous +size of the head, and of the strength of bone and cartilage required to +hold in position so great a weight, and to resist the strain when the +tusk is used as a lever to uproot trees. + +The brain of an African elephant rests upon a plate of bone exactly +above the roots of the upper grinders; it is thus wonderfully protected +from a front shot, as it lies so low that the ball passes above it when +the elephant raises his head, which he invariably does when in anger, +until close to the object of his attack. + +The character of the country naturally influences the habits of the +animals: thus, Africa being more generally open than the forest-clad +Ceylon, the elephant is more accustomed to activity, and is much faster +than the Ceylon variety. Being an old elephant-hunter of the latter +island, I was exceedingly interested in the question of variety of +species, and I had always held the opinion that the African elephant +might be killed with the same facility as that of Ceylon, by the +forehead shot, provided that a sufficient charge of powder were used to +penetrate the extra thickness of the head. I have found, by much +experience, that I was entirely wrong, and that, although by CHANCE an +African elephant may be killed by the front shot, it is the exception to +the rule. The danger of the sport is, accordingly, much increased, as it +is next to impossible to kill the elephant when in full charge, and the +only hope of safety consists in turning him by a continuous fire with +heavy guns: this cannot always be effected. + +I had a powerful pair of No. 10 polygroove rifles, made by Reilly of +Oxford Street; they weighed fifteen pounds, and carried seven drachms of +powder without a disagreeable recoil. The bullet was a blunt cone, one +and a half diameter of the bore, and I used a mixture of nine-tenths +lead and one-tenth quicksilver for the hardening of the projectile. This +is superior to all mixtures for that purpose, as it combines hardness +with extra weight; the lead must be melted in a pot by itself to a red +heat, and the proportion of quicksilver must be added a ladle-full at a +time, and stirred quickly with a piece of iron just in sufficient +quantity to make three or four bullets. If the quicksilver is subjected +to a red heat in the large lead-pot, it will evaporate. The only +successful forehead shot that I made at an African elephant was shortly +after my arrival in the Abyssinian territory on the Settite river; this +was in thick thorny jungle, and an elephant from the herd charged with +such good intention, that had she not been stopped, she must have caught +one of the party. When within about five yards of the muzzle, I killed +her dead by a forehead shot with a hardened bullet as described, from a +Reilly No. 10 rifle, and we subsequently recovered the bullet in the +VERTEBRAE OF THE NECK! + +This extraordinary penetration led me to suppose that I should always +succeed as I had done in Ceylon, and I have frequently stood the charge +of an African elephant until close upon me, determined to give the +forehead shot a fair trial, but I have ALWAYS failed, except in the +instance now mentioned; it must also be borne in mind that the elephant +was a female, with a head far inferior in size and solidity to that of +the male. + +The temple shot, and that behind the ear, are equally fatal in Africa as +in Ceylon, provided the hunter can approach within ten or twelve yards; +but altogether the hunting is far more difficult, as the character of +the country does not admit of an approach sufficiently close to +guarantee a successful shot. In the forests of Ceylon an elephant can be +stalked to within a few paces, and the shot is seldom fired at a greater +distance than ten yards: thus accuracy of aim is insured; but in the +open ground of Africa, an elephant can seldom be approached within fifty +yards, and should he charge the hunter, escape is most difficult. I +never found African elephants in good jungle, except once, and on that +occasion I shot five, quite as quickly as we should kill them in Ceylon. + +The character of the sport must vary according to the character of the +country; thus there may be parts of Africa at variance with my +description. I only relate my own experience. + +Among other weapons, I had an extraordinary rifle that carried a +half-pound percussion shell--this instrument of torture to the hunter +was not sufficiently heavy for the weight of the projectile; it only +weighed twenty pounds: thus, with a charge of ten drachms of powder, +behind a HALF-POUND shell, the recoil was so terrific, that I was spun +round like a weathercock in a hurricane. I really dreaded my own rifle, +although I had been accustomed to heavy charges of powder and severe +recoil for many years. + +None of my men could fire it, and it was looked upon with a species of +awe, and was named "Jenna el Mootfah" (child of a cannon) by the Arabs, +which being far too long a name for practice, I christened it the +"Baby;" and the scream of this "Baby," loaded with a half-pound shell, +was always fatal. It was far too severe, and I very seldom fired it, but +it is a curious fact, that I never fired a shot with that rifle without +bagging: the entire practice, during several years, was confined to +about twenty shots. I was afraid to use it; but now and then it was +absolutely necessary that it should be cleaned, after lying for months +loaded. On such occasions my men had the gratification of firing it, and +the explosion was always accompanied by two men falling on their backs +(one having propped up the shooter), and the "Baby" flying some yards +behind them. This rifle was made by Holland, of Bond Street, and I could +highly recommend it for Goliath of Gath, but not for men of A.D. 1866. + +The natives of Central Africa generally hunt the elephant for the sake +of the flesh, and prior to the commencement of the White Nile trade by +the Arabs, and the discovery of the Upper White Nile to the 5 degrees N. +lat. by the expedition sent by Mehemet Ali Pasha, the tusks were +considered as worthless, and were treated as bones. The death of an +elephant is a grand affair for the natives, as it supplies flesh for an +enormous number of people, also fat, which is the great desire of all +savages for internal and external purposes. There are various methods of +killing them. Pitfalls are the most common, but the wary old bulls are +seldom caught in this manner. + +The position chosen for the pit is, almost without exception, in the +vicinity of a drinking place, and the natives exhibit a great amount of +cunning in felling trees across the usual run of the elephants, and +sometimes cutting an open pit across the path, so as to direct the +elephant by such obstacles into the path of snares. The pits are usually +about twelve feet long, and three feet broad, by nine deep; these are +artfully made, decreasing towards the bottom to the breadth of a foot. +The general elephant route to the drinking place being blocked up, the +animals are diverted by a treacherous path towards the water, the route +intersected by numerous pits, all of which are carefully concealed by +sticks and straw, the latter being usually strewn with elephants' dung +to create a natural effect. + +Should an elephant, during the night, fall through the deceitful +surface, his foot becomes jammed in the bottom of the narrow grave, and +he labours shoulder deep, with two feet in the pitfall so fixed that +extrication is impossible. Should one animal be thus caught, a sudden +panic seizes the rest of the herd, and in their hasty retreat one or +more are generally victims to the numerous pits in the vicinity. The old +bulls never approach a watering place rapidly, but carefully listen for +danger, and then slowly advance with their warning trunks stretched to +the path before them; the delicate nerves of the proboscis at once +detect the hidden snare, and the victims to pitfalls are the members of +large herds who, eager to push forward incautiously, put their "foot +into it," like shareholders in bubble companies. Once helpless in the +pit, they are easily killed with lances. + +The great elephant hunting season is in January, when the high prairies +are parched and reduced to straw. At such a time, should a large herd of +animals be discovered, the natives of the entire district collect +together to the number of perhaps a thousand men; surrounding the +elephants by embracing a considerable tract of country, they fire the +grass at a given signal. In a few minutes the unconscious elephants are +surrounded by a circle of fire, which, however distant, must eventually +close in upon them. The men advance with the fire, which rages to the +height of twenty or thirty feet. At length the elephants, alarmed by the +volumes of smoke and the roaring of the flames, mingled with the shouts +of the hunters, attempt an escape. They are hemmed in on every +side--wherever they rush, they are met by an impassable barrier of +flames and smoke, so stifling, that they are forced to retreat. +Meanwhile the fatal circle is decreasing; buffaloes and antelopes, +likewise doomed to a horrible fate, crowd panic stricken to the centre +of the encircled ring, and the raging fire sweeps over all. Burnt and +blinded by fire and smoke, the animals are now attacked by the savage +crowd of hunters, excited by the helplessness of the unfortunate +elephants thus miserably sacrificed, and they fall under countless +spears. This destructive method of hunting ruins the game of that part +of Africa, and so scarce are the antelopes, that, in a day's journey, a +dozen head are seldom seen in the open prairie. + +The next method of hunting is perfectly legitimate. Should many +elephants be in the neighbourhood, the natives post about a hundred men +in as many large trees; these men are armed with heavy lances specially +adapted to the sport, with blades about eighteen inches long and three +inches broad. The elephants are driven by a great number of men towards +the trees in which the spearmen are posted, and those that pass +sufficiently near are speared between the shoulders. The spear being +driven deep into the animal, creates a frightful wound, as the tough +handle, striking against the intervening branches of trees, acts as a +lever, and works the long blade of the spear within the elephant, +cutting to such an extent that he soon drops from exhaustion. + +The best and only really great elephant-hunters of the White Nile are +the Bagara Arabs, on about the 13 degree N. lat. These men hunt on +horseback, and kill the elephant in fair fight with their spears. + +The lance is about fourteen feet long, of male bamboo; the blade is +about fourteen inches long by nearly three inches broad; this is as +sharp as a razor. Two men, thus armed and mounted, form the hunting +party. Should they discover a herd, they ride up to the finest tusker +and single him from the others. One man now leads the way, and the +elephant, finding himself pressed, immediately charges the horse. There +is much art required in leading the elephant, who follows the horse with +great determination, and the rider adapts his pace so as to keep his +horse so near the elephant that his attention is entirely absorbed with +the hope of catching him. The other hunter should by this tine have +followed close to the elephant's heels, and, dismounting when at full +gallop with wonderful dexterity, he plunges his spear with both hands +into the elephant about two feet below the junction of the tail, and +with all his force he drives the spear about eight feet into his +abdomen, and withdraws it immediately. Should he be successful in his +stab, he remounts his horse and flies, or does his best to escape on +foot, should he not have time to mount, as the elephant generally turns +to pursue him. His comrade immediately turns his horse, and, dashing at +the elephant, in his turn dismounts, and drives his lance deep into his +intestines. + +Generally, if the first thrust is scientifically given, the bowels +protrude to such an extent that the elephant is at once disabled. Two +good hunters will frequently kill several out of one herd; but in this +dangerous hand-to-hand fight the hunter is often the victim. Hunting +the elephant on horseback is certainly far less dangerous than on foot, +but although the speed of the horse is undoubtedly superior, the chase +generally takes place upon ground so disadvantageous, that he is liable +to fall, in which case there is little chance for either animal or +rider. So savage are the natural instincts of Africans, that they attend +only to the destruction of the elephant, and never attempt its +domestication. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +IBRAHIM's RETURN. + +Ibrahim returned from Gondokoro, bringing with him a large supply of +ammunition. A wounded man of Chenooda's people also arrived, the sole +relic of the fight with the Latookas; he had been left for dead, but had +recovered, and for days and nights he had wandered about the country, in +thirst and hunger, hiding like a wild beast from the sight of human +beings, his guilty conscience marking every Latooka as an enemy. As a +proof of the superiority of the natives to the Khartoumers, he had at +length been met by some Latookas, and not only was well treated and fed +by their women, but they had guided him to Ibrahim's camp. + +The black man is a curious anomaly, the good and bad points of human +nature bursting forth without any arrangement, like the flowers and +thorns of his own wilderness. A creature of impulse, seldom actuated by +reflection, the black man astounds by his complete obtuseness, and as +suddenly confounds you by an unexpected exhibition of sympathy. From a +long experience with African savages, I think it is as absurd to condemn +the negro in toto, as it is preposterous to compare his intellectual +capacity with that of the white man. It is unfortunately the fashion for +one party to uphold the negro as a superior being, while the other +denies him the common powers of reason. So great a difference of opinion +has ever existed upon the intrinsic value of the negro, that the very +perplexity of the question is a proof that he is altogether a distinct +variety. So long as it is generally considered that the negro and the +white man are to be governed by the same laws and guided by the same +management, so long will the former remain a thorn in the side of every +community to which he may unhappily belong. When the horse and the ass +shall be found to match in double harness, the white man and the African +black will pull together under the same regime. It is the grand error of +equalizing that which is unequal, that has lowered the negro character, +and made the black man a reproach. + +In his savage home, what is the African? Certainly bad; but not so bad +as white men would (I believe) be under similar circumstances. He is +acted upon by the bad passions inherent in human nature, but there is no +exaggerated vice, such as is found in civilized countries. The strong +takes from the weak, one tribe fights the other--do not perhaps we in +Europe?--these are the legitimate acts of independent tribes, authorized +by their chiefs. They mutually enslave each other--how long is it since +America and WE OURSELVES ceased to be slaveholders? He is callous and +ungrateful--in Europe is there no ingratitude? + +He is cunning and a liar by nature--in Europe is all truth and +sincerity? Why should the black man not be equal to the white? He is as +powerful in frame, a why should he not be as exalted in mind? + +In childhood I believe the negro to be in advance, in intellectual +quickness, of the white child of a similar age, but the mind does not +expand--it promises fruit, but does not ripen; and the negro man has +grown in body, but not advanced in intellect. + +The puppy of three months old is superior in intellect to a child of the +same age, but the mind of the child expands, while that of the dog has +arrived at its limit. The chicken of the common fowl has sufficient +power and instinct to run in search of food the moment that it leaves +the egg, while the young of the eagle lies helpless in its nest; but the +young eagle outstrips the chicken in the course of time. The earth +presents a wonderful example of variety in all classes of the human +race, the animal and vegetable kingdoms. People, beasts, and plants +belonging to distinct classes, exhibit special qualities and +peculiarities. The existence of many hundred varieties of dogs cannot +interfere with the fact that they belong to one genus: the greyhound, +pug, bloodhound, pointer, poodle, mastiff, and toy terrier, are all as +entirely different in their peculiar instincts as are the varieties of +the human race. The different fruits and flowers continue the +example;--the wild grapes of the forest are grapes, but although they +belong to the same class, they are distinct from the luscious +"Muscatel;" and the wild dog-rose of the hedge, although of the same +class, is inferior to the moss-rose of the garden. + +From fruits and flowers we may turn to insect life, and, watch the air +teeming with varieties of the same species, the thousands of butterflies +and beetles, the many members of each class varying in instincts and +peculiarities. Fishes, and even shellfish, all exhibit the same +arrangement,--that every group is divided into varieties all differing +from each other, and each distinguished by some peculiar excellence or +defect. + +In the great system of creation that divided races and subdivided them +according to mysterious laws, apportioning special qualities to each, +the varieties of the human race exhibit certain characters and +qualifications which adapt them for specific localities. The natural +character of those races will not alter with a change of locality, but +the instincts of each race will be developed in any country where they +may be located. Thus, the English are as English in Australia, India, +and America, as they are in England, and in every locality they exhibit +the industry and energy of their native land; even so the African will +remain negro in all his natural instincts, although transplanted to +other soils; and those natural instincts being a love of idleness and +savagedom, he will assuredly relapse into an idle and savage state, +unless specially governed and forced to industry. + +The history of the negro has proved the correctness of this theory. In +no instance has he evinced other than a retrogression, when once freed +from restraint. Like a horse without harness, he runs wild, but, if +harnessed, no animal is more useful. Unfortunately, this is contrary to +public opinion in England, where the vox populi assumes the right of +dictation upon matters and men in which it has had no experience. The +English insist upon their own weights and measures as the scales for +human excellence, and it has been decreed by the multitude, +inexperienced in the negro personally, that he has been a badly-treated +brother; that he is a worthy member of the human family, placed in an +inferior position through the prejudice and ignorance of the white man, +with whom he should be upon equality. + +The negro has been, and still is, thoroughly misunderstood. However +severely we may condemn the horrible system of slavery, the results of +emancipation have proved that the negro does not appreciate the +blessings of freedom, nor does he show the slightest feeling of +gratitude to the hand that broke the rivets of his fetters. His narrow +mind cannot embrace that feeling of pure philanthropy that first +prompted England to declare herself against slavery, and he only regards +the antislavery movement as a proof of his own importance. In his +limited horizon he is himself the important object, and, as a sequence +to his self-conceit, he imagines that the whole world is at issue +concerning the black man. The negro, therefore, being the important +question, must be an important person, and he conducts himself +accordingly--he is far too great a man to work. Upon this point his +natural character exhibits itself most determinedly. Accordingly, he +resists any attempt at coercion; being free, his first impulse is to +claim an equality with those whom he lately served, and to usurp a +dignity with absurd pretensions, that must inevitably insure the disgust +of the white community. Ill-will thus engendered, a hatred and jealousy +is established between the two races, combined with the errors that in +such conditions must arise upon both sides. The final question remains, +Why was the negro first introduced into our colonies--and to America? + +The SUN is the great arbitrator between the white and the black man. +There are productions necessary to civilized countries, that can alone +be cultivated in tropical climates, where the white man cannot live if +exposed to labour in the sun. Thus, such fertile countries as the West +Indies and portions of America being without a native population, the +negro was originally imported as a slave to fulfil the conditions of a +labourer. In his own country he was a wild savage, and enslaved his +brother man; he thus became a victim to his own system; to the +institution of slavery that is indigenous to the soil of Africa, and +that has NOT BEEN TAUGHT TO THE AFRICAN BY THE WHITE MAN, as is +currently reported, but that has ever been the peculiar characteristic +of African tribes. + +In his state of slavery the negro was compelled to work, and, through +his labour, every country prospered where he had been introduced. He was +suddenly freed; and from that moment he refused to work, and instead of +being a useful member of society, he not only became a useless burden to +the community, but a plotter and intriguer, imbued with a deadly hatred +to the white man who had generously declared him free. + +Now, as the negro was originally imported as a labourer, but now refuses +to labour, it is self-evident that he is a lamentable failure. Either he +must be compelled to work, by some stringent law against vagrancy, or +those beautiful countries that prospered under the conditions of negro +forced industry must yield to ruin, under negro freedom and idle +independence. For an example of the results look to St. Domingo! + +Under peculiar guidance, and subject to a certain restraint, the negro +may be an important and most useful being; but if treated as an +Englishman, he will affect the vices but none of the virtues of +civilization, and his natural good qualities will be lost in his +attempts to become a "white man." + +Revenons a nos moutons noirs. It was amusing to watch the change that +took place in a slave that had been civilized (?) by the slave-traders. +Among their parties there were many blacks who had been captured, and +who enjoyed the life of slave-hunting--nothing appeared so easy as to +become professional in cattle razzias and kidnapping human beings, and +the first act of the slave was to procure a slave for himself! All the +best slave-hunters, and the boldest and most energetic scoundrels, were +the negroes who had at one time themselves been kidnapped. These fellows +aped a great and ridiculous importance. On the march they would seldom +condescend to carry their own guns; a little slave boy invariably +attended to his master, keeping close to his heels, and trotting along +on foot during a long march, carrying a musket much longer than himself: +a woman generally carried a basket with a cooking-pot, and a gourd of +water and provisions, while a hired native carried the soldier's change +of clothes and oxhide upon which he slept. Thus the man who had been +kidnapped became the kidnapper, and the slave became the master, the +only difference between him and the Arab being an absurd notion of his +own dignity. It was in vain that I attempted to reason with them against +the principles of slavery: they thought it wrong when they were +themselves the sufferers, but were always ready to indulge in it when +the preponderance of power lay upon their side. + +Among Ibrahim's people, there was a black named Ibrahimawa. This fellow +was a native of Bornu, and had been taken when a boy of twelve years old +and sold at Constantinople; he formerly belonged to Mehemet Ali Pasha; +he had been to London and Paris, and during the Crimean war he was at +Kertch. Altogether he was a great traveller, and he had a natural taste +for geography and botany, that marked him as a wonderful exception to +the average of the party. He had run away from his master in Egypt, and +had been vagabondizing about in Khartoum in handsome clothes, +negro-like, persuading himself that the public admired him, and thought +that he was a Bey. Having soon run through his money, he had engaged +himself to Koorshid Aga to serve in his White Nile expedition. + +He was an excellent example of the natural instincts of the negro +remaining intact under all circumstances. Although remarkably superior +to his associates, his small stock of knowledge was combined with such +an exaggerated conceit, that he was to me a perpetual source of +amusement, while he was positively hated by his comrades, both by Arabs +and blacks, for his overbearing behaviour. Having seen many countries, +he was excessively fond of recounting his adventures, all of which had +so strong a colouring of the "Arabian Nights," that he might have been +the original "Sinbad the Sailor." His natural talent for geography was +really extraordinary; he would frequently pay me a visit, and spend +hours in drawing maps with a stick upon the sand, of the countries he +had visited, and especially of the Mediterranean, and the course from +Egypt and Constantinople to England. Unfortunately, some long story was +attached to every principal point of the voyage. The descriptions most +interesting to me were those connected with the west bank of the White +Nile, as he had served some years with the trading party, and had +penetrated through the Makkarika, a cannibal tribe, to about two hundred +miles west of Gondokoro. Both he and many of Ibrahim's party had been +frequent witnesses to acts of cannibalism, during their residence among +the Makkarikas. They described these cannibals as remarkably good +people, but possessing a peculiar taste for dogs and human flesh. They +accompanied the trading party in their razzias, and invariably ate the +bodies of the slain. The traders complained that they were bad +associates, as they insisted upon killing and eating the children which +the party wished to secure as slaves: their custom was to catch a child +by its ankles, and to dash its head against the ground; thus killed, +they opened the abdomen, extracted the stomach and intestines, and tying +the two ankles to the neck they carried the body by slinging it over the +shoulder, and thus returned to camp, where they divided it by +quartering, and boiled it in a large pot. Another man in my own service +had been a witness to a horrible act of cannibalism at Gondokoro. + +The traders had arrived with their ivory from the West, together with a +great number of slaves; the porters who carried the ivory being +Makkarikas. One of the slave girls attempted to escape, and her +proprietor immediately fired at her with his musket, and she fell +wounded; the ball had struck her in the side. The girl was remarkably +fat, and from the wound, a large lump of yellow fat exuded. No sooner +had she fallen, than the Makkarikas rushed upon her in a crowd, and +seizing the fat, they tore it from the wound in handfuls, the girl being +still alive, while the crowd were quarrelling for the disgusting prize. +Others killed her with a lance, and at once divided her by cutting off +the head, and splitting the body with their lances, used as knives, +cutting longitudinally from between the legs along the spine to the +neck. + +Many slave women and their children who witnessed this scene, rushed +panic-stricken from the spot and took refuge in the trees. The +Makkarikas seeing them in flight, were excited to give chase, and +pulling the children from their refuge among the branches, they killed +several, and in a short time a great feast was prepared for the whole +party. My man, Mahommed, who was an eyewitness, declared that he could +not eat his dinner for three days, so great was his disgust at this +horrible feast. + +Although my camp was entirely separate from that of Ibrahim, I was +dreadfully pestered by his people, who, knowing that I was well supplied +with many articles of which they were in need, came begging to my tent +from morning till evening daily. To refuse was to insult them; and as my +chance of success in the exploration unfortunately depended upon my not +offending the traders I was obliged to be coldly civil, and nothing was +refused them. Hardly a day passed without broken guns being brought to +me for repair; and having earned an unenviable celebrity as a gunsmith, +added to my possession of the requisite tools, I really had no rest, and +I was kept almost constantly at work. + +One day Ibrahim was seized with a dangerous fever, and was supposed to +be dying. Again I was in request: and seeing that he was in a state of +partial collapse, attended with the distressing symptoms of want of +action of the heart, so frequently fatal at this stage of the disease, I +restored him by a very powerful stimulant, and thereby gained renown as +a physician, which, although useful was extremely annoying, as my tent +was daily thronged with patients, all of whom expected miraculous cures +for the most incurable diseases. + +In this manner I gained a certain influence over the people, but I was +constantly subjected to excessive annoyances and disgust, occasioned by +the conduct of their party towards the Latookas. The latter were +extremely unwise, being very independent and ready to take offence on +the slightest pretext, and the Turks, being now 140 strong, had no fear, +and there appeared every probability of hostilities. I was engaged in +erecting huts, and in securing my camp; and although I offered high +payment, I could not prevail on the natives to work regularly. They +invariably stipulated that they were to receive their beads before they +commenced work, in which case they, with few exceptions, absconded with +their advanced payment. + +One day a native behaved in a similar manner to the Turks; he was, +accordingly, caught, and unmercifully beaten. Half an hour after, the +nogara beat, and was answered by distant drums from the adjacent +villages. In about an hour, several thousand armed men, with shields, +were collected within half a mile of the Turks' camp, to avenge the +insult that had been offered to one of their tribe. However, the Turks' +drum beat, and their whole force drew up to their flag under arms +outside their zareeba, and offered a determined front. I extract the +following entry from my journal. "These Turks are delightful neighbours; +they will create a row, and I shall be dragged into it in self-defence, +as the natives will distinguish no difference in a scrimmage, although +they draw favourable comparisons between me and the Turks in times of +peace. Not a native came to work at the huts today; I therefore sent for +the two chiefs, Commoro and Moy, and had a long talk with them. They +said that 'no Latooka should be beaten by common fellows like the +traders' men; that I was a great chief, and that if I chose to beat them +they would be content.' I gave them advice to keep quiet, and not to +quarrel about trifles, as the Turks would assuredly destroy the country +should a fight commence. + +"At the same time, I told them that they did not treat me properly: they +came to me in times of difficulty as a mediator, but although they knew +I had always paid well for everything, they gave me no supplies, and I +was obliged to shoot game for my daily food, although they possessed +such enormous herds of cattle; neither could I procure materials or +workpeople to complete my camp. The parley terminated with an +understanding that they were to supply me with everything, and that they +would put a stop to the intended fight. In the evening a goat was +brought, and a number of men appeared with grass and wood for sale for +hut-building." + +The following day, some of my people went to a neighbouring village to +purchase corn, but the natives insulted them, refusing to sell, saying +that "we should die of hunger, as no one should either give or sell us +anything." This conduct must induce hostilities, as the Turks are too +powerful to be insulted. I am rather anxious lest some expedition may +entail the departure of the entire Turkish party, when the Latookas may +seize the opportunity of attacking my innocents. The latter are now so +thoroughly broken to my severe laws, "thou shalt not take slaves; +neither cattle; nor fire a shot unless in self-defence," that they are +resigned to the ignoble lot of minding the donkeys, and guarding the +camp. + +Latooka was in a very disturbed state, and the excitement of the people +was increasing daily. Two of my men went into the town to buy grass, +and, without any provocation, they were surrounded by the natives, and +the gun of one man was wrested from him; the other, after a tussle, in +which he lost his ramrod, beat a hasty retreat. A number of the soldiers +immediately collected, and I sent to the chief to demand the restoration +of the gun, which was returned that evening. I could literally procure +nothing without the greatest annoyance and trouble. + +My men, by their mutiny and desertion at Gondokoro, had reduced a +well-armed expedition to a mere remnant, dependent upon the company of a +band of robbers for the means of advancing through the country. Instead +of travelling as I had arranged, at the head of forty-five well-armed +men, I had a miserable fifteen cowardly curs, who were employed in +driving the baggage animals; thus they would be helpless in the event of +an attack upon the road. I accordingly proposed to make a depot at +Latooka, and to travel with only twelve donkeys and the lightest +baggage. It was a continual trial of temper and wounded pride. To give +up the expedition was easy, but to succeed at that period appeared +hopeless; and success could only be accomplished by the greatest +patience, perseverance, and most careful tact and management of all +parties. It was most galling to be a hanger-on to this company of +traders, who tolerated me for the sake of presents, but who hated me in +their hearts. + +One afternoon some natives suddenly arrived from a country named Obbo +with presents from their chief for the Turks, and also for me. Ibrahim +received several tusks while I received an iron hoe (molote), as the +news had already extended to that country, "that a white man was in +Latooka, who wanted neither slaves nor ivory." The natives reported, +that a quantity of ivory existed in their country, and Ibrahim +determined to take a few men and pay it a visit, as the people were said +to be extremely friendly. I requested the leader to point out the exact +position of Obbo, which I found to be S.W. That was precisely the +direction that I had wished to take; thus an unexpected opportunity +presented itself, and I determined to start without delay. On the 2d of +May, 1863, at 9 A.M. we left Latooka, delighted to change the scene of +inaction. I left five men in charge of my camp and effects, begging +Commoro the chief to look after their safety, and telling him that I had +no fear of trusting all to his care. Savages will seldom deceive you if +thus placed upon their honour, this happy fact being one of the bright +rays in their darkness, and an instance of the anomalous character of +the African. + +The route lay across the park-like valley of Latooka for about eighteen +miles, by which time we reached the base of the mountain chain. There +was no other path than the native track, which led over a low range of +granite rocks, forming a ridge about four hundred feet high. It was with +the greatest difficulty that the loaded donkeys could be hoisted over +the numerous blocks of granite that formed an irregular flight of steps, +like the ascent of the great pyramid; however, by pulling at their ears, +and pushing behind, all except one succeeded in gaining the summit; he +was abandoned on the pass. + +We were now in the heart of the mountains, and a beautiful valley, well +wooded and about six miles in width, lay before us, forming the basin of +the Kanieti river that we had formerly crossed at Wakkala, between +Ellyria and Latooka. + +Fording this stream in a rapid current, we crossed with difficulty, the +donkeys wetting all their loads. This was of no great consequence, as a +violent storm suddenly overtook us and soaked everyone as thoroughly as +the donkeys' packs. A few wild plantains afforded leaves which we +endeavoured to use as screens, but the rain-drops were far too heavy for +such feeble protection. Within a mile of the river we determined to +bivouac, as the evening had arrived, and in such weather an advance was +out of the question. The tent having been left at Latooka, there was no +help for it, and we were obliged to rest contented with our position +upon about an acre of clean rock plateau upon which we lighted an +enormous fire, and crouched shivering round the blaze. No grass was cut +for the animals, as the men had been too busy in collecting firewood +sufficient to last throughout the night. Some fowls that we had brought +from Latooka had been drowned by the rain; thus my Mahommedan followers +refused to eat them, as their throats had not been cut. Not being so +scrupulous, and wonderfully hungry in the cold rain, Mrs. Baker and I +converted them into a stew, and then took refuge, wet and miserable, +under our untanned ox-hides until the following morning. Although an +ox-hide is not waterproof, it will keep out a considerable amount of +wet; but when thoroughly saturated, it is about as comfortable as any +other wet leather, with the additional charm of an exceedingly +disagreeable raw smell, very attractive to hyenas. The night being dark, +several men thus lost their leather bags that they had left upon the +rock. + +At 6 A.M., having passed a most uncomfortable night, we started, and +after a march of about two miles I was made extremely anxious for the +donkeys, by being assured that it was necessary to ascend a most +precipitous granite hill, at least seven hundred feet high, that rose +exactly before us, and upon the very summit of which was perched a large +village. There was no help by means of porters; we led our horses with +difficulty up the steep face of the rock--fortunately they had never +been shod, thus their firm hoofs obtained a hold where an iron shoe +would have slipped; and after extreme difficulty and a most tedious +struggle, we found our party all assembled on the flat summit. From this +elevated point we had a superb view of the surrounding country, and I +took the compass bearing of the Latooka mountain Gebel Lafeet, N. 45 +degrees east. The natives of the village that we had now reached had +nothing to sell but a few beans, therefore without further delay we +commenced the descent upon the opposite side, and at 2.40 P.M. we +reached the base, the horses and donkeys having scrambled over the large +blocks of stone with the greatest labour. At the foot of the hill the +country was park-like and well wooded, although there was no very large +timber. Here the grass was two feet high and growing rapidly, while at +Latooka all was barren. Halted at 5.20 P.M. on the banks of a small +running stream, a tributary to the Kanieti. The night being fine we +slept well; and the next morning at 6 A.M. we commenced the most lovely +march that I have ever made in Africa. Winding through the very bosom of +the mountains, well covered with forest until the bare granite peaks +towered above all vegetation to the height of about 5,000 feet, we +continued through narrow valleys bordered by abrupt spurs of the +mountains from 1,700 to 2,000 feet high. On the peak of each was a +village; evidently these impregnable positions were chosen for security. +At length the great ascent was to be made, and for two hours we toiled +up a steep zigzag pass. The air was most invigorating; beautiful wild +flowers, some of which were highly scented, ornamented the route, and +innumerable wild grape-vines hung in festoons from tree to tree. We were +now in an elevated country on the range of mountains dividing the lower +lands of Latooka from the high lands of Obbo. We arrived at the summit +of the pass about 2,500 feet above the Latooka valley. In addition to +the wild flowers were numerous fruits, all good; especially a variety of +custard apple, and a full-flavoured yellow plum. The grapes were in most +promising bunches, but unripe. The scenery was very fine; to the east +and southeast, masses of high mountains, while to the west and south +were vast tracts of park-like country of intense green. In this elevated +region the season was much farther advanced than in Latooka;-this was +the mountain range upon which I had formerly observed that the storms +had concentrated; here the rainy season had been in full play for +months, while in Latooka everything was parched. The grass on the west +side of the pass was full six feet high. Although the ascent had +occupied about two hours, the descent on the west side was a mere +trifle, and was effected in about fifteen minutes--we were on an +elevated plateau that formed the watershed between the east and west. + +After a march of about twelve miles from the top of the pass, we arrived +at the chief village of Obbo. The rain fell in torrents, and, soaked to +the skin, we crawled into a dirty hut. This village was forty miles S.W. +of Tarrangolle, my head-quarters in Latooka. + +The natives of Obbo are entirely different to the Latookas, both in +language and appearance. They are not quite naked, except when going to +war, on which occasion they are painted in stripes of red and yellow; +but their usual covering is the skin of an antelope or goat, slung like +a mantle across the shoulders. Their faces are well formed, with +peculiarly fine-shaped noses. The headdress of the Obbo is remarkably +neat, the woolly hair being matted and worked with thread into a flat +form like a beaver's tail, and bound with a fine edge of raw hide to +keep it in shape. This, like the head-dress of Latooka, requires many +years to complete. + +From Obbo to the Southeast all is mountainous, the highest points of the +chain rising to an elevation of four or five thousand feet above the +general level of the country; to the south, although there are no actual +mountains, but merely a few isolated hills, the country distinctly +rises. + +The entire drainage is to the west and north-west, in which direction +there is a very perceptible inclination. The vegetation of Obbo, and the +whole of the west side of the mountain range, is different from that +upon the east side; the soil is exceedingly rich, producing an abundance +of Guinea grass, with which the plains are covered. This country +produces nine varieties of yams, many of which grow wild in the forests. +There is one most peculiar species, called by the natives "Collolollo," +that I had not met with in other countries. This variety produces +several tubers at the root, and also upon the stalk; it does not spread +upon the ground, like most of the vines that characterise the yams, but +it climbs upon trees or upon any object that may tempt its tendrils. +From every bud upon the stalk of this vine springs a bulb, somewhat +kidney-shaped; this increases until, when ripe, it attains the average +size of a potato. + +So prolific is this plant, that one vine will produce about 150 yams: +they are covered with a fine skin of a greenish brown, and are in +flavour nearly equal to a potato, but rather waxy. + +There are many good wild fruits, including one very similar to a walnut +in its green shell; the flesh of this has a remarkably fine flavour, and +the nut within exactly resembles a horse-chestnut in size and fine +mahogany colour. This nut is roasted, and, when ground and boiled, a +species of fat or butter is skimmed from the surface of the water: this +is much prized by the natives, and is used for rubbing their bodies, +being considered as the best of all fats for the skin; it is also eaten. + +Among the best of the wild fruits is one resembling raisins; this grows +in clusters upon a large tree. Also a bright yellow fruit, as large as a +Muscat grape, and several varieties of plums. None of these are produced +in Latooka. Ground-nuts are also in abundance in the forests; these are +not like the well-known African ground-nut of the west coast, but are +contained in an excessively hard shell. A fine quality of flax grows +wild, but the twine generally used by the natives is made from the fibre +of a species of aloe. Tobacco grows to an extraordinary size, and is +prepared similarly to that of the Ellyria tribe. + +When ripe, the leaves are pounded in a mortar and reduced to a pulp; the +mass is then placed in a conical mould of wood, and pressed. It remains +in this until dry, when it presents the shape of a loaf of sugar, and is +perfectly hard. The tobacco of the Ellyria tribe is shaped into cheeses, +and frequently adulterated with cowdung. I had never smoked until my +arrival in Obbo, but having suffered much from fever, and the country +being excessively damp, I commenced with Obbo pipes and tobacco. + +Every tribe has a distinct pattern of pipe; those of the Bari have wide +trumpet-shaped mouths; the Latooka are long and narrow; and the Obbo +smaller and the neatest. All their pottery is badly burned, and +excessively fragile if wet. The water jars are well formed, although the +potter's wheel is quite unknown, and the circular form is obtained +entirely by the hand. Throughout the tribes of the White Nile, the +articles of pottery are limited to the tobacco-pipe and the water-jar: +all other utensils are formed either of wood, or of gourd shells. + +By observation, 1 determined the latitude of my camp at Obbo to be 4 +degrees 02' N., 32 degrees 31' long. E., and the general elevation of +the country 3,674 feet above the sea, the temperature about 76 degrees +F. The altitude of Latooka was 2,236 feet above the sea level: thus we +were, at Obbo, upon an elevated plateau, 1,438 feet above the general +level of the country on the east of the mountain range. The climate +would be healthy were the country sufficiently populated to war +successfully against nature; but the rainfall continuing during ten +months of the year, from February to the end of November, and the soil +being extremely fertile, the increase of vegetation is too rapid, and +the scanty population are hemmed in and overpowered by superabundant +herbage. This mass of foliage, and grasses of ten feet in height +interwoven with creeping plants and wild grape-vines, is perfectly +impenetrable to man, and forms a vast jungle, inhabited by elephants, +rhinoceros, and buffaloes, whose ponderous strength alone can overcome +it. There are few antelopes, as those animals dislike the grass jungles, +in which they have no protection against the lion or the leopard, as +such beasts of prey can approach them unseen. In the month of January +the grass is sufficiently dry to burn, but even at that period there is +a quantity of fresh green grass growing between the withered stems; thus +the firing of the prairies does not absolutely clear the country, but +merely consumes the dry matter, and leaves a ruin of charred herbage, +rendered so tough by the burning, that it is quite impossible to ride +without cutting the skin from the horse's shins and shoulders. +Altogether, it is a most uninteresting country, as there is no +possibility of traversing it except by the narrow footpaths made by the +natives. + +The chief of Obbo came to meet us with several of his head men. He was +an extraordinary-looking man, about fifty-eight or sixty years of age; +but, far from possessing the dignity usually belonging to a grey head, +he acted the buffoon for our amusement, and might have been a clown in a +pantomime. + +The heavy storm having cleared, the nogaras beat, and our entertaining +friend determined upon a grand dance; pipes and flutes were soon heard +gathering from all quarters, horns brayed, and numbers of men and women +began to collect in crowds, while old Katchiba, the chief, in a state of +great excitement, gave orders for the entertainment. + +About a hundred men formed a circle; each man held in his left hand a +small cup-shaped drum, formed of hollowed wood, one end only being +perforated, and this was covered with the skin of the elephant's ear, +tightly stretched. In the centre of the circle was the chief dancer, who +wore, suspended from his shoulders, an immense drum, also covered with +the elephant's ear. The dance commenced by all singing remarkably well a +wild but agreeable tune in chorus, the big drum directing the time, and +the whole of the little drums striking at certain periods with such +admirable precision, that the effect was that of a single instrument. +The dancing was most vigorous, and far superior to anything that I had +seen among either, Arabs or savages, the figures varying continually, +and ending with a "grand galop" in double circles, at a tremendous pace, +the inner ring revolving in a contrary direction to the outer; the +effect of this was excellent. + +Although the men of Obbo wear a skin slung across their shoulders and +loins, the women are almost naked, and, instead of wearing the leather +apron and tail of the Latookas, they are contented with a slight fringe +of leather shreds, about four inches long by two broad, suspended from a +belt. The unmarried girls are entirely naked; or, if they are +sufficiently rich in finery, they wear three or four strings of small +white beads, about three inches in length, as a covering. The old ladies +are antiquated Eves, whose dress consists of a string round the waist, +in which is stuck a bunch of green leaves, the stalk uppermost. I have +seen a few of the young girls that were prudes indulge in such garments; +but they did not appear to be fashionable, and were adopted faute de +mieux. One great advantage was possessed by this costume,--it was always +clean and fresh, and the nearest bush (if not thorny) provided a clean +petticoat. When in the society of these very simple and in demeanour +ALWAYS MODEST Eves, I could not help reflecting upon the Mosaical +description of our first parents, "and they sewed fig-leaves together." + +Some of the Obbo women were very pretty. The caste of feature was +entirely different to that of the Latookas, and a striking peculiarity +was displayed in the finely arched noses of many of the natives, which +strongly reminded one of the Somauli tribes. It was impossible to +conjecture their origin, as they had neither traditions nor ideas of +their past history. + +The language is that of the Madi. There are three distinct +languages--the Bari, the Latooka, and the Madi, the latter country +extending south of Obbo. A few of the words, most commonly in use, will +exemplify them :-- + + Obbo. Latooka. Bari. + + Water. Fee. Cari. Feeum. + Fire. Mite. Nyeme. Keemang. + The Sun. T'sean. Narlong. Karlong. + A Cow. Decang. Nyeten. Kittan. + A Goat. Decan. Nyene. Eddeen. + Milk. T'sarck. Nalle. Le. + A Fowl. Gweno. Nakome. Chokkore. + +The Obbo natives were a great and agreeable change after the Latookas, +as they never asked for presents. Although the old chief, Katchiba, +behaved more like a clown than a king, he was much respected by his +people. He holds his authority over his subjects as general rain maker +and sorcerer. Should a subject displease him, or refuse him a gift, he +curses his goats and fowls, or threatens to wither his crops, and the +fear of these inflictions reduces the discontented. There are no +specific taxes, but he occasionally makes a call upon the country for a +certain number of goats and supplies. These are generally given, as +Katchiba is a knowing old diplomatist, and he tunes his demands with +great judgment. Thus, should there be a lack of rain, or too much, at +the season for sowing the crops, he takes the opportunity of calling his +subjects together and explaining to them how much he regrets that their +conduct has compelled him to afflict them with unfavourable weather, but +that it is their own fault. If they are so greedy and so stingy that +they will not supply him properly, how can they expect him to think of +their interests? He must have goats and corn. "No goats, no rain; that's +our contract, my friends," says Katchiba. "Do as you like. I can wait; I +hope you can." Should his people complain of too much rain, he threatens +to pour storms and lightning upon them for ever, unless they bring him +so many hundred baskets of corn, &c. &c. Thus he holds his sway. + +No man would think of starting upon a journey without the blessing of +the old chief; and a peculiar "hocus pocus" is considered as necessary +from the magic hands of Katchiba that shall charm the traveller, and +preserve him from all danger of wild animals upon the road. In case of +sickness he is called in, not as M.D. in our acceptation, but as "doctor +of magic," and he charms both the hut and the patient against death, +with the fluctuating results that must attend professionals even in +sorcery. His subjects have the most thorough confidence in his power; +and so great is his reputation that distant tribes frequently consult +him, and beg his assistance as a magician. In this manner does old +Katchiba hold his sway over his savage, but credulous people; and so +long has he imposed upon the public that I believe he has at length +imposed upon himself, and that he really believes he has the power of +sorcery, notwithstanding repeated failures. In order to propitiate him, +his people frequently present him with the prettiest of their daughters; +and so constantly is he receiving additions to his domestic circle that +he has been obliged to extend his establishment to prevent domestic +fracas among the ladies. He has accordingly hit upon the practical +expedient of keeping a certain number of wives in each of his villages: +thus, when he makes a journey through his territory, he is always at +home. This multiplicity of wives has been so successful that Katchiba +has one hundred and sixteen children living--another proof of sorcery +in the eyes of his people. One of his wives had no children, and she +came to me to apply for medicine to correct some evil influence that had +lowered her in her husband's estimation. The poor woman was in great +distress, and complained that Katchiba was very cruel to her because she +had been unable to make an addition to his family, but that she was sure +I possessed some charm that would raise her to the standard of his other +wives. I could not bet rid of her until I gave her the first pill that +came to hand from my medicine chest, and with this she went away +contented. + +Katchiba was so completely established in his country, not only as a +magician, but as "pere de famille," that every one of his villages was +governed by one of his sons; thus the entire government was a family +affair. The sons of course believed in their father's power of sorcery, +and their influence as head men of their villages increased the prestige +of the parent. Although without an idea of a Supreme Being, the whole +country bowed down to sorcery. It is a curious distinction between faith +and credulity;--these savages, utterly devoid of belief in a Deity, +and without a vestige of superstition, believed most devotedly that the +general affairs of life and the control of the elements were in the +hands of their old chief, and therefore they served him--not with a +feeling of love, neither with a trace of religion, but with that +material instinct that always influences the savage; they propitiated +him for the sake of what they could obtain. It is thus almost +unconquerable feeling, ever present in the savage mind, that renders his +conversion difficult; he will believe in nothing, unless he can obtain +some specific benefit from the object of his belief. + +Savages can be ruled by two powers--"force," and "humbug;" accordingly, +these are the instruments made use of by those in authority: where the +"force" is wanting, "humbug" is the weapon as a "pis aller." Katchiba +having no physical force, adopted cunning, and the black art controlled +the savage minds of his subjects. Strange does it appear, that these +uncivilized inhabitants of Central Africa should, although devoid of +religion, believe implicitly in sorcery; giving a power to man +superhuman, although acknowledging nothing more than human. Practical +and useful magic is all that is esteemed by the savage, the higher +branches would be unappreciated; and spirit-rapping and mediums are +reserved for the civilized (?) of England, who would convert the black +savages of Africa. + +Notwithstanding his magic, Katchiba was not a bad man: he was remarkably +civil, and very proud at my having paid him a visit. He gave me much +information regarding the country, but assured me that I should not be +able to travel south for many months, as it would be quite impossible to +cross the Asua river during the rainy season; he therefore proposed that +I should form a camp at Obbo, and reside there until the rains should +cease. It was now May, thus I was invited to postpone my advance south +until December. + +I determined to make a reconnaissance south towards the dreaded Asua, +or, as the Obbo people pronounced it, the Achua river, and to return to +my fixed camp. Accordingly I arranged to leave Mrs. Baker at Obbo with a +guard of eight men, while I should proceed south without baggage, +excepting a change of clothes and a cooking pot. Katchiba promised to +take the greatest care of her, and to supply her with all she might +require; offering to become personally responsible for her safety; he +agreed to place a spell upon the door of our hut, that nothing evil +should enter it during my absence. It was a snug little dwelling, about +nine feet in diameter, and perfectly round; the floor well cemented with +cow-dung and clay, and the walls about four feet six inches in height, +formed of mud and sticks, likewise polished off with cow-dung. The door +had enlarged, and it was now a very imposing entrance of about four feet +high, and a great contrast to the surrounding hut or dog-kennel with two +feet height of doorway. + +On the 7th of May I started with three men, and taking a course south, I +rode through a most lovely country, within five miles of the base, and +parallel with the chain of the Madi mountains. There was abundance of +beautiful flowers, especially of orchidaceous plants; the country was +exceedingly park-like and well wooded, but generally overgrown with +grass then about six feet high. After riding for about fourteen miles, +one of the guides ran back, and reported elephants to be on the road a +little in advance. One of my mounted men offered to accompany me should +I wish to hunt them. I had no faith in my man, but I rode forward, and +shortly observed a herd of ten bull elephants standing together about +sixty yards from the path. The grass was high, but I rode through it to +within about forty yards before I was observed; they immediately dashed +away, and I followed for about a mile at a trot, the ground being so +full of holes and covered with fallen trees concealed in the high grass, +that I did not like to close until I should arrive in a more favourable +spot. At length I shot at full gallop past an immense fellow, with tusks +about five feet projecting from his jaws, and reining up, I fired with a +Reilly No. 10 at the shoulder. He charged straight into me at the sound +of the shot. My horse, Filfil, was utterly unfit for a hunter, as he +went perfectly mad at the report of a gun fired from his back, and at +the moment of the discharge he reared perpendicularly; the weight, and +the recoil of the rifle, added to the sudden rearing of the horse, +unseated me, and I fell, rifle in hand, backwards over his hind-quarters +at the moment the elephant rushed in full charge upon the horse. Away +went "Filfil," leaving me upon the ground in a most inglorious position; +and, fortunately, the grass being high, the elephant lost sight of me +and followed the horse instead of giving me his attention. + +My horse was lost; my man had never even accompanied me, having lagged +behind at the very commencement of the hunt. I had lost my rifle in the +high grass, as I had been forced to make a short run from the spot +before I knew that the elephant had followed the horse; thus I was +nearly an hour before I found it, and also my azimuth compass that had +fallen from my belt pouch. After much shouting and whistling, my mounted +man arrived, and making him dismount, I rode my little horse Mouse, and +returned to the path. My horse Filfil was lost. As a rule, hunting +during the march should be avoided, and I had now paid dearly for the +indiscretion. + +I reached the Atabbi river about eighteen miles from Obbo. This is a +fine perennial stream flowing from the Madi mountains towards the west, +forming an affluent of the Asua river. There was a good ford, with a +hard gravel and rocky bottom, over which the horse partly waded and +occasionally swam. There were fresh tracks of immense herds of elephants +with which the country abounded, and I heard them trumpeting in the +distance. + +Ascending rising ground in perfectly open prairie on the opposite side +of Atabbi, I saw a dense herd of about two hundred elephants--they were +about a mile distant, and were moving slowly through the high grass. +Just as I was riding along the path watching the immense herd, a Tetel +(hartebeest) sprang from the grass in which he had been concealed, and +fortunately he galloped across a small open space, where the high grass +had been destroyed by the elephants. A quick shot from the little +Fletcher 24 rifle doubled him up; but, recovering himself almost +immediately, he was just disappearing when a shot from the left-hand +barrel broke his back, to the intense delight of my people. We +accordingly bivouacked for the night, and the fires were soon blazing +upon a dry plateau of granite rock about seventy feet square that I had +chosen for a resting-place. In the saucer-shaped hollows of the rock was +good clear water from the rain of the preceding day; thus we had all the +luxuries that could be desired--fire, food, and water. I seldom used a +bedstead unless in camp; thus my couch was quickly and simply made upon +the hard rock, softened by the addition of an armful of green boughs, +upon which I laid an untanned ox-hide, and spread my Scotch plaid. My +cap formed my pillow, and my handy little Fletcher rifle lay by my side +beneath the plaid, together with my hunting knife; these faithful +friends were never out of reach either by night or day. + +The cap was a solid piece of architecture, as may be supposed from its +strength to resist the weight of the head when used as a pillow. It was +made by an Arab woman in Khartoum, according to my own plan; the +substance was about half an inch thick of dome palm leaves very neatly +twisted and sewn together. Having a flat top, and a peak both before and +behind, the whole affair was covered with tanned leather, while a +curtain of the same material protected the back of the neck from the +sun. A strong chin strap secured the cap upon the head, and the "tout +ensemble" formed a very effective roof, completely sun-proof. Many +people might have objected to the weight, but I found it no +disadvantage, and the cap being tolerably waterproof, I packed my +cartouche pouch and belt within it when inverted at night to form a +pillow; this was an exceedingly practical arrangement, as in case of an +alarm I rose from my couch armed, capped and belted, at a moment's +notice. + +On the following morning I started at daybreak, and after a march of +about thirteen miles through the same park-like and uninhabited country +as that of the preceding day, I reached the country of Farajoke, and +arrived at the foot of a rocky hill, upon the summit of which was a +large village. I was met by the chief and several of his people leading +a goat, which was presented to me, and killed immediately as an +offering, close to the feet of my horse. The chief carried a fowl, +holding it by the legs, with its head downwards; he approached my horse, +and stroked his fore-feet with the fowl, and then made a circle around +him by dragging it upon the ground; my feet were then stroked with the +fowl in the same manner as those of the horse, and I was requested to +stoop, so as to enable him to wave the bird around my head; this +completed, it was also waved round my horse's head, who showed his +appreciation of the ceremony by rearing and lashing out behind, to the +great discomfiture of the natives. The fowl did not appear to have +enjoyed itself during the operation; but a knife put an end to its +troubles, as, the ceremony of welcome being completed, the bird was +sacrificed and handed to my headman. I was now conducted to the village. +It was defended by a high bamboo fence, and was miserably dirty, forming +a great contrast to the clean dwellings of the Bari and Latooka tribes. +The hill upon which the village was built was about eighty feet above +the general level of the country, and afforded a fine view of the +surrounding landscape. On the east was the chain of Madi mountains, the +base well wooded, while to the south all was fine open pasturage of +sweet herbage, about a foot high, a totally different grass to the rank +vegetation we had passed through. The country was undulating, and every +rise was crowned by a village. Although the name of the district is +Farajoke, it is comprised in the extensive country of Sooli, together +with the Shoggo and Madi tribes, all towns being under the command of +petty chiefs. The general elevation of the country was 3,966 feet above +the sea-level, 292 feet higher than Obbo. + +The chief of Farajoke, observing me engaged in taking bearings with the +compass, was anxious to know my object, which being explained, he +volunteered all information respecting the country, and assured me that +it would be quite impossible to cross the Asua during the rainy season, +as it was a violent torrent, rushing over a rocky bed with such +impetuosity, that no one would venture to swim it. There was nothing to +be done at this season, and however trying to the patience, there was no +alternative. Farajoke was within three days' hard marching of Faloro, +the station of Debono, that had always been my projected head-quarters; +thus I was well advanced upon my intended route, and had the season been +propitious, I could have proceeded with my baggage animals without +difficulty. + +The loss of my horse "Filfil" was a severe blow in this wild region, +where beasts of burthen were unknown, and I had slight hopes of his +recovery, as lions were plentiful in the country between Obbo and +Farajoke; however, I offered a reward of beads and bracelets, and a +number of natives were sent by the chief to scour the jungles. There was +little use in remaining at Farajoke, therefore I returned to Obbo with +my men and donkeys, accomplishing the whole distance (thirty miles) in +one day. I was very anxious about Mrs. Baker, who had been the +representative of the expedition at Obbo during my absence. Upon my +approach through the forest, my well-known whistle was immediately +answered by the appearance of the boy Saat, who, without any greeting, +immediately rushed to the hut to give the intelligence that "Master was +arrived." + +I found my wife looking remarkably well, and regularly installed "at +home." Several fat sheep were tied by the legs to pegs in front of the +hut; a number of fowls were pecking around the entrance, and my wife +awaited me on the threshold with a large pumpkin shell containing about +a gallon of native beer. "Dulce domum," although but a mud hut, the +loving welcome made it happier than a palace; and that draught of beer, +or fermented mud, or whatever trash it might be compared with in +England, how delicious it seemed after a journey of thirty miles in the +broiling sun! and the fat sheep and the fowls all looked so luxurious. +Alas!--for destiny--my arrival cut short the existence of one being; +what was joy to some was death to a sheep, and in a few moments the +fattest was slain in honour of master's return, and my men were busily +employed in preparing it for a general feast. + +Numbers of people gathered round me: foremost among them was the old +chief Katchiba, whose self-satisfied countenance exhibited an extreme +purity of conscience in having adhered to his promise to act as guardian +during my absence. Mrs. Baker gave him an excellent character; he had +taken the greatest care of her, and had supplied all the luxuries that +had so much excited my appetite on the first coup d'oeil of my home. He +had been so mindful of his responsibility, that he had placed some of +his own sons as sentries over the hut both by day and night. + +I accordingly made him a present of many beads and bracelets, and a few +odds and ends, that threw him into ecstacies: he had weak eyes, and the +most valued present was a pair of sun-goggles, which I fitted on his +head, to his intense delight, and exhibited in a looking-glass--this +being likewise added to his gifts. I noticed that he was very stiff in +the back, and he told me that he had had a bad fall during my absence. +My wife explained the affair. He had come to her to declare his +intention of procuring fowls for her from some distant village; but, +said he, "My people are not very good, and perhaps they will say that +they have none; but if you will lend me a horse, I will ride there, and +the effect will impose upon them so much, that they will not dare to +refuse me." Now, Katchiba was not a good walker, and his usual way of +travelling was upon the back of a very strong subject, precisely as +children are wont to ride "pic-a-back." He generally had two or three +spare men, who alternately acted as guides and ponies, while one of his +wives invariably accompanied him, bearing a large jar of beer, with +which it was said that the old chief refreshed himself so copiously +during the journey, that it sometimes became necessary for two men to +carry him instead of one. This may have been merely a scandalous report +in Obbo; however, it appeared that Katchiba was ready for a start, as +usual accompanied by a Hebe with a jar of beer. Confident in his powers +as a rider across country on a man, he considered that he could easily +ride a horse. It was in vain that my wife had protested, and had +prophesied a broken neck should he attempt to bestride the hitherto +unknown animal: to ride he was determined. + +Accordingly my horse Tetel was brought, and Katchiba was assisted upon +his back. The horse recognising an awkward hand, did not move a step. +"Now then," said Katchiba, "go on!" but Tetel, not understanding the +Obbo language, was perfectly ignorant of his rider's wishes. "Why won't +he go?" inquired Katchiba. "Touch him with your stick," cried one of my +men; and acting upon the suggestion, the old sorcerer gave him a +tremendous whack with his staff. This was immediately responded to by +Tetel, who, quite unused to such eccentricities, gave a vigorous kick, +the effect of which was to convert the sorcerer into a spread eagle, +flying over his head, and landing very heavily upon the ground, amidst a +roar of laughter from my men, in which I am afraid Mrs. Baker was rude +enough to join. The crest-fallen Katchiba was assisted upon his legs, +and feeling rather stunned, he surveyed the horse with great +astonishment; but his natural instincts soon prompted him to call for +the jar of beer, and after a long draught from the mighty cup, he +regained his courage, and expressed an opinion that the horse was "too +high, as it was a long way to tumble down;" he therefore requested one +of the "little horses;" these were the donkeys. Accordingly he was +mounted on a donkey, and held on by two men, one on either side. Thus he +started most satisfactorily and exceedingly proud. On his return the +following day, he said that the villagers had given him the fowls +immediately, as he had told them that he had thirty Turks staying with +him on a visit, and that they would burn and plunder the country unless +they were immediately supplied. He considered this trifling deviation +from fact as a great stroke of diplomacy in procuring the fowls. + +Six days after the loss of my horse, I was delighted to see him brought +back by the natives safe and well. They had hunted through an immense +tract of country, and had found him grazing. He was naturally a most +vicious horse, and the natives were afraid to touch him; they had +accordingly driven him before them until they gained the path, which he +then gladly followed. The saddle was in its place, but my sword was +gone. + +The rains were terrific; the mornings were invariably fine, but the +clouds gathered upon the mountains soon after noon and ended daily in a +perfect deluge. Not being able to proceed south, I determined to return +to my head-quarters at Latooka, and to wait for the dry season. I had +made the reconnaissance to Farajoke, in latitude 3 degrees 32', and I +saw my way clear for the future, provided my animals should remain in +good condition. Accordingly, on the 21st of May, we started for Latooka +in company with Ibrahim and his men, who were thoroughly sick of the +Obbo climate. + +Before parting, a ceremony had to be performed by Katchiba. His brother +was to be our guide, and he was to receive power to control the elements +as deputy-magician during the journey, lest we should be wetted by the +storms, and the torrents should be so swollen as to be impassable. + +With great solemnity Katchiba broke a branch from a tree, upon the +leaves of which he spat in several places. This branch, thus blessed +with holy water, was laid upon the ground, and a fowl was dragged around +it by the chief; and our horses were then operated on precisely in the +same manner as had been enacted at Farajoke. This ceremony completed, he +handed the branch to his brother (our guide), who received it with much +gravity, in addition to a magic whistle of antelope's horn that he +suspended from his neck. All the natives wore whistles similar in +appearance, being simply small horns in which they blew, the sound of +which was considered either to attract or to drive away rain, at the +option of the whistler. No whistle was supposed to be effective unless +it had been blessed by the great magician Katchiba. The ceremony being +over, all commenced whistling with all their might; and taking leave of +Katchiba, with an assurance that we should again return, we started +amidst a din of "toot too too-ing" upon our journey. Having an immense +supply of ammunition at Latooka, I left about 200 lbs. of shot and ball +with Katchiba; therefore my donkeys had but little to carry, and we +travelled easily. + +That night we bivouacked at the foot of the east-side of the pass at +about half-past five. Ibrahimawa, the Bornu man whom I have already +described as the amateur botanist, had become my great ally in searching +for all that was curious and interesting. Proud of his knowledge of wild +plants, no sooner was the march ended than he commenced a search in the +jungles for something esculent. + +We were in a deep gorge on a steep knoll bounded by a ravine about sixty +feet of perpendicular depth, at the bottom of which flowed a torrent. +This was an excellent spot for a camp, as no guards were necessary upon +the side thus protected. Bordering the ravine were a number of fine +trees covered with a thorny stem creeper, with leaves much resembling +those of a species of yam. These were at once pronounced by Ibrahimawa +to be a perfect god-send, and after a few minutes' grubbing he produced +a basketful of fine-looking yams. In an instant this display of food +attracted a crowd of hungry people, including those of Ibrahim and my +own men, who, not being botanists, had left the search for food to +Ibrahimawa, but who determined to share the tempting results. A rush was +made at his basket, which was emptied on the instant; and I am sorry to +confess that the black angel Saat was one of the first to seize three or +four of the largest yams, which he most unceremoniously put in a pot and +deliberately cooked as though he had been the botanical discoverer. How +often the original discoverer suffers, while others benefit from his +labours! Ibrahimawa, the scientific botanist, was left without a yam, +after all his labour of grubbing up a basketful. Pots were boiling in +all directions, and a feast in store for the hungry men who had marched +twenty miles without eating since the morning. + +The yams were cooked; but I did not like the look of them, and seeing +that the multitude were ready, I determined to reserve a few for our own +eating should they be generally pronounced good. The men ate them +voraciously. Hardly ten minutes had elapsed from the commencement of the +feast when first one and then another disappeared, and from a distance I +heard a smothered but unmistakeable sound, that reminded me of the +lurching effect of a channel steamer upon a crowd of passengers. +Presently the boy Saat showed symptoms of distress, and vanished from +our presence; and all those that had dined off Ibrahimawa's botanical +specimens were suffering from a most powerful "vomi-purgatif." The +angels that watch over scientific botanists had preserved Ibrahimawa +from all evil. He had discovered the yams, and the men had stolen them +from him; they enjoyed the fruits, while he gained an experience +invaluable at their expense. I was quite contented to have waited until +others had tried them before I made the experiment. Many of the yam +tribe are poisonous; there is one variety much liked at Obbo, but which +is deadly in its effects should it be eaten without a certain +preparation. It is first scraped, and then soaked in a running stream +for a fortnight. It is then cut into thin slices, and dried in the sun +until quite crisp; by this means it is rendered harmless. The dried +slices are stored for use; and they are generally pounded in a mortar +into flour, and used as a kind of porridge. + +The sickness of the people continued for about an hour, during which +time all kinds of invectives were hurled against Ibrahimawa, and his +botany was termed a gigantic humbug. From that day he was very mild in +his botanical conversation. + +On the following morning we crossed the last range of rocky hills, and +descended to the Latooka valley. Up to this point, we had seen no game; +but we had now arrived in the game country, and shortly after our +descent from the rocks we saw a herd of about twenty Tetel (hartebeest). +Unfortunately, just as I dismounted for the purpose of stalking them, +the red flags of the Turks attracted the attention of a large party of +baboons, who were sitting on the rocks, and they commenced their hoarse +cry of alarm, and immediately disturbed the Tetel. One of the men, in +revenge, fired a long shot at a great male, who was sitting alone upon a +high rock, and by chance the ball struck him in the head. He was an +immense specimen of the Cynocephalus, about as large as a mastiff, but +with a long brown mane like that of the lion. This mane is much prized +by the natives as an ornament. He was immediately skinned, and the hide +was cut into long strips about three inches broad: the portion of mane +adhering had the appearance of a fringe; each strip was worn as a scarf; +thus one skin will produce about eight or ten ornaments. + +I sent my men to camp, and, accompanied by Richarn, mounted on my horse +"Mouse," I rode through the park-like ground in quest of game. I saw +varieties of antelopes, including the rare and beautiful maharif; but +all were so wild, and the ground so open, that I could not get a shot. +This was the more annoying, as the maharif was an antelope that I +believed to be a new species. It had often disappointed me; for although +I had frequently seen them on the south-west frontier of Abyssinia, I +had never been able to procure one, owing to their extreme shyness, and +to the fact of their inhabiting open plains, where stalking was +impossible. I had frequently examined them with a telescope, and had +thus formed an intimate acquaintance with their peculiarities. The +maharif is very similar to the roan antelope of South Africa, but is +mouse colour, with black and white stripes upon the face. The horns are +exactly those of the roan antelope, very massive and corrugated, bending +backwards to the shoulders. The withers are extremely high, which give a +peculiarly heavy appearance to the shoulders, much heightened by a large +and stiff black mane like that of a hog-maned horse. I have a pair of +horns in my possession that I obtained through the assistance of a lion, +who killed the maharif while drinking near my tent; unfortunately, the +skin was torn to pieces, and the horns and skull were all that remained. + +Failing, as usual, in my endeavours to obtain a shot, I made a +considerable circuit, and shortly observed the tall heads of giraffes +towering over the low mimosas. There is no animal in nature so +picturesque in his native haunts as the giraffe. His food consists of +the leaves of trees, some qualities forming special attractions, +especially the varieties of the mimosa, which, being low, permit an +extensive view to his telescopic eyes. He has a great objection to high +forests. The immense height of the giraffe gives him a peculiar +advantage, as he can command an extraordinary range of vision, and +thereby be warned against the approach of his two great enemies, man and +the lion. No animal is more difficult to stalk than the giraffe, and the +most certain method of hunting is that pursued by the Hamran Arabs, on +the frontiers of Abyssinia, who ride him down and hamstring him with the +broadsword at full gallop. A good horse is required, as, although the +gait of a giraffe appears excessively awkward from the fact of his +moving the fore and hind legs of one side simultaneously, he attains a +great pace, owing to the length of his stride, and his bounding trot is +more than a match for any but a superior horse. + +The hoof is as beautifully proportioned as that of the smallest gazelle, +and his lengthy legs and short back give him every advantage for speed +and endurance. There is a rule to be observed in hunting the giraffe on +horseback: the instant he starts, he must be pressed--it is the speed +that tells upon him, and the spurs must be at work at the very +commencement of the hunt, and the horse pressed along at his best pace; +it must be a race at top speed from the start, but, should the giraffe +be allowed the slightest advantage for the first five minutes, the race +will be against the horse. + +I was riding "Filfil," my best horse for speed, but utterly useless for +the gun. I had a common regulation-sword hanging on my saddle in lieu of +the long Arab broadsword that I had lost at Obbo, and starting at full +gallop at the same instant as the giraffes, away we went over the +beautiful park. Unfortunately Richarn was a bad rider, and I, being +encumbered with a rifle, had no power to use the sword. I accordingly +trusted to ride them down and to get a shot, but I felt that the +unsteadiness of my horse would render it very uncertain. The wind +whistled in my ears as we flew along over the open plain. The grass was +not more than a foot high, and the ground hard; the giraffes about four +hundred yards distant steaming along, and raising a cloud of dust from +the dry earth, as on this side of the mountains there had been no rain. +Filfil was a contradiction; he loved a hunt and had no fear of wild +animals, but he went mad at the sound of a gun. Seeing the magnificent +herd of about fifteen giraffes before him, the horse entered into the +excitement and needed no spur--down a slight hollow, flying over the dry +buffalo holes, now over a dry watercourse and up the incline on the +other side--then again on the level, and the dust in my eyes from the +cloud raised by the giraffes showed that we were gaining in the race; +misericordia!--low jungle lay before us--the giraffes gained it, and +spurring forward through a perfect cloud of dust now within a hundred +yards of the game we shot through the thorny bushes. In another minute +or two I was close up, and a splendid bull giraffe was crashing before +me like a locomotive obelisk through the mimosas, bending the elastic +boughs before him in his irresistible rush, which sprang back with a +force that would have upset both horse and rider had I not carefully +kept my distance. The jungle seemed alive with the crowd of orange red, +the herd was now on every side, as I pressed the great bull before me. +Oh for an open plain! I was helpless to attack, and it required the +greatest attention to keep up the pace through the thick mimosas without +dashing against their stems and branches. The jungle became thicker, and +although I was in the middle of the herd and within ten yards of several +giraffes, I could do nothing. A mass of thick and tangled thorns now +received them, and closed over the hardly-contested race--I was beaten. + +Never mind, it was a good hunt--first-rate--but where was my camp? It +was nearly dark, and I could just distinguish the pass in the distance, +by which we had descended the mountain; thus I knew the direction but I +had ridden about three miles, and it would be dark before I could +return. However, I followed the heel tracks of the herd of giraffes. +Richarn was nowhere. Although I had lost the race, and was disappointed, +I now consoled myself that it was all for the best; had I killed a +giraffe at that hour and distance from camp, what good would it have +been? I was quite alone; thus who could have found it during the night? +and before morning it would have been devoured by lions and hyenas; +inoffensive and beautiful creatures, what a sin it appeared to destroy +them uselessly! With these consoling and practical reflections I +continued my way, until a branch of hooked thorn fixing in my nose +disturbed the train of ideas and persuaded me that it was very dark, and +that I had lost my way, as I could no longer distinguish either the +tracks of the giraffes or the position of the mountains. Accordingly I +fired my rifle as a signal, and soon after I heard a distant report in +reply, and the blaze of a fire shot up suddenly in the distance on the +side of the mountain. With the help of this beacon I reached the spot +where our people were bivouacked; they had lighted the beacon on a rock +about fifty feet above the level, as although some twenty or thirty +fires were blazing, they had been obscured by the intervening jungle. I +found both my wife and my men in an argumentative state as to the +propriety of my remaining alone so late in the jungle; however, I also +found dinner ready; the angareps (stretcher bedsteads) arranged by a +most comfortable blazing fire, and a glance at the star-lit heavens +assured me of a fine night--what more can man wish for?--wife, welcome, +food, fire, and fine weather? + +The bivouac in the wilderness has many charms; there is a complete +independence--the sentries are posted, the animals picketed and fed, and +the fires arranged in a complete circle around the entire party--men, +animals, and luggage all within the fiery ring; the sentries alone being +on the outside. There is a species of ironwood that is very inflammable, +and being oily, it burns like a torch; this grew in great quantities, +and the numerous fires fed with this vigorous fuel enlivened the bivouac +with a continual blaze. My men were busy, baking their bread. On such +occasions an oven is dispensed with. A prodigious fire is made while the +dough is being prepared; this, when well moistened, is formed into a +cake about two feet in diameter, but not thicker than two inches. The +fire being in a fit state of glowing ash, a large hole is scraped in the +centre, in which the flat cake is laid, and the red-hot embers are raked +over it; thus buried it will bake in about twenty minutes, but the dough +must be exceedingly moist or it will burn to a cinder. + +On the following day we arrived at Latooka, where I found everything in +good order at the depot, and the European vegetables that I had sown +were all above ground. Commoro and a number of people came to meet us. + +There had been but little rain at Latooka since we left, although it had +been raining heavily at Obbo daily, and there was no difference in the +dry sandy plain that surrounded the town, neither was there any +pasturage for the animals except at a great distance. + +The day after my arrival, Filfil was taken ill and died in a few hours. +Tetel had been out of condition ever since the day of his failure during +the elephant hunt, and he now refused his food. Sickness rapidly spread +through my animals; five donkeys died within a few days, and the +remainder looked poor. Two of my camels died suddenly, having eaten the +poison-bush. Within a few days of this disaster my good old hunter and +companion of all my former sports in the Base country, Tetel, died. +These terrible blows to my expedition were most satisfactory to the +Latookas, who ate the donkeys and other animals the moment they died. It +was a race between the natives and the vultures as to who should be +first to profit by my losses. + +Not only were the animals sick, but my wife was laid up with a violent +attack of gastric fever, and I was also suffering from daily attacks of +ague. The small-pox broke out among the Turks. Several people died; and, +to make matters worse, they insisted upon inoculating themselves and all +their slaves; thus the whole camp was reeking with this horrible +disease. + +Fortunately my camp was separate and to windward. I strictly forbade my +men to inoculate themselves, and no case of the disease occurred among +my people, but it spread throughout the country. Small-pox is a scourge +among the tribes of Central Africa, and it occasionally sweeps through +the country and decimates the population. + +Among the natives of Obbo, who had accompanied us to Latooka, was a man +named Wani, who had formerly travelled far to the south, and had offered +to conduct Ibrahim to a country rich in ivory that had never been +visited by a trader: this man had accordingly been engaged as guide arid +interpreter. In an examination of Wani I discovered that the +cowrie-shells were brought from a place called "Magungo." This name I +had previously heard mentioned by the natives, but I could obtain no +clue to its position. It was most important that I should discover the +exact route by which the cowries arrived from the south, as it would be +my guide to that direction. The information that I received from Wani at +Latooka was excessively vague, and upon most slender data I founded my +conclusions so carefully that my subsequent discoveries have rendered +most interesting the first scent of the position which I eventually +followed with success. I accordingly extract, verbatim, from my journal +the note written by me at Latooka on the 26th of May, 1863, when I first +received the clue to the Albert N'yanza: "I have had a long examination +of Wani, the guide and interpreter, respecting the country of Magungo. +Loggo, the Bari interpreter, has always described Magungo as being on a +large river, and I have concluded that it must be the Asua; but, upon +cross-examination, I find he has used the word 'Bahr' (in Arabic +signifying river or sea) instead of 'Birke' (lake). This important error +being discovered gives a new feature to the geography of this part." + +According to his description, Magungo is situated on a lake so large +that no one knows its limits. Its breadth is such that, if you journey +two days east and the same distance west, there is no land visible on +either quarter, while to the south its direction is utterly unknown. +Large vessels arrive at Magungo from distant and unknown parts, bringing +cowrie-shells and beads in exchange for ivory. Upon these vessels white +men have been seen. All the cowrie-shells used in Latooka and the +neighbouring countries are supplied by these vessels, but none have +arrived for the last two years. + +"His description of distance places Magungo on about the 2 degrees N. +lat. The lake can be no other than the 'N'yanza,' which, if the position +of Magungo be correct, extends much farther north than Speke had +supposed. The 'white men' must be Arab traders who bring cowries from +Zanzibar. I shall take the first opportunity to push for Magungo. I +imagine that country belongs to Kamrasi's brother, as Wani says the king +has a brother who is king of a powerful country on the west bank of the +Nile but that they are ever at war with each other. + +"I examined another native who had been to Magungo to purchase Simbi +(the cowrie-shell); he says that a white man formerly arrived there +annually, and brought a donkey with him in a boat; that he disembarked +his donkey and rode about the country, dealing with the natives, and +bartering cowries and brass-coil bracelets. This man had no firearms, +but wore a sword. The king of Magungo was called 'Cherrybambi.'" + +This information was the first clue to the facts that I subsequently +established, and the account of the white men (Arabs) arriving at +Magungo was confirmed by the people of that country twelve months after +I obtained this vague information at Latooka. + +Arabs, being simply brown, are called WHITE men by the blacks of these +countries. I was called a VERY white man as a distinction, but I have +frequently been obliged to take off my shirt to exhibit the difference +of colour between myself and my men, as my face was brown. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +THE TURKS ATTACK KAYALA. + +On the 30th May, about an hour before daybreak, I was awoke by a rattle +of musketry, which continued some time in irregular volleys, and +subsided into a well-sustained and steady fire in single shots. On +leaving my hut, I found the camp of Koorshid's people almost empty, +while my own men were climbing on the roofs of their huts to obtain a +view towards the west. Nothing was in sight, although the firing still +continued at a distance of about a mile, apparently on the other side of +a belt of trees. I now heard that Koorshid's people had started at +between three and four o'clock that morning, by Commoro's request, to +attack a neighbouring town that had been somewhat rebellious. The firing +continued for about two hours, when it suddenly ceased, and I shortly +saw with a telescope the Turks' red ensign emerge from the forest, and +we heard the roll of their drum, mingled with the lowing of oxen and the +bleating of sheep. Upon nearer approach, I remarked a considerable body +of men, and a large herd of cattle and sheep driven by a number of +Latookas, while a knot of Turks carried something heavy in their arms. + +They soon arrived, with about 2,000 head of cattle and sheep; but they +had lost one of their men, killed in the fight, and his body they +carried home for interment. It happened to be about the best man of the +party; really a very civil fellow, and altogether rather a pleasant +robber. At Commoro's instigation, the Turks had attacked the town of +Kayala; but the Latookas had fought so well, that the Turks found it +impossible to capture the town, which was, as usual, protected by +iron-wood palisades, upon which their bullets harmlessly flattened. Not +only the Latooka men had fought well, but their women broke up their +grinding-stones and defended the entrance by pelting their assailants +with the fragments; several of the Turks were wounded by the stones +thrown with such force by these brawny Amazons that some of the +gun-barrels were indented. Many of these brave women had been shot by +the dastardly Turks, and one was in the act of being carried off by the +"pleasant robber," when a native, running to her rescue, drove his spear +through his chest and killed him on the spot. Unfortunately for the +Latookas, some of their cattle had left the town to pasture just before +the attack took place; these were captured by the Turks, but not one +hostile foot had been able to penetrate their town. On the following day +the party were busily engaged in dividing the spoil, one third belonging +to the men as a bonus, while the remainder were the property of the +traders' establishment, or "Meri" (government), as they term the +proprietor. This portion was to be sent to Obbo as a place of security +and good pasturage, and the men were to engage in other razzias in +Latooka, and to collect a large number of cattle to be driven south to +exchange for ivory. Koorshid's camp was a scene of continual uproar, the +men quarrelling over the division of the spoil. + +Journal--June 2nd.--The Turks are now busy buying and selling, each man +disposing of his share of the stolen cattle according to his wants: one +exchanges a cow to the natives for corn and meat; another slaughters an +ox, and retails small portions for merissa (beer), fowls, &c., the +natives flocking to the camp like vultures scenting flesh; others +reserve their cattle for the purpose of purchasing the daughters of the +natives for slaves under the name of wives, whom they will eventually +sell in Khartoum for from twenty to thirty dollars each. My men look on +in dismay at the happiness of their neighbours: like + + "A Peri weeping at the gate + Of Eden, stood disconsolate," + +so may they be seen regarding the adjoining paradise, where meat is in +profusion, sweetened by being stolen; but, alas! their cruel master does +not permit them these innocent enjoyments. + +Everything may be obtained for cattle as payment in this country. The +natives are now hard at work making zareebas (kraals) for the cattle +stolen from their own tribe and immediate neighbours, for the sake of +two or three bullocks as remuneration to be divided among more than a +hundred men. They are not deserving of sympathy; they are worse than +vultures, being devoid of harmony even in the same tribe. The chiefs +have no real control; and a small district, containing four or five +towns, club together and pillage the neighbouring province. It is not +surprising that the robber traders of the Nile turn this spirit of +discord to their own advantage, and league themselves with one chief, to +rob another, whom they eventually plunder in his turn. The natives say +that sixty-five men and women were killed in the attack upon Kayala. All +the Latookas consider it a great disgrace that the Turks fired upon +women. Among all tribes, from Gondokoro to Obbo, a woman is respected, +even in time of war. Thus, they are employed as spies, and become +exceedingly dangerous; nevertheless, there is a general understanding +that no woman shall be killed. The origin of this humane distinction +arises, I imagine, from their scarcity. Where polygamy is in force, +women should be too dear to kill; the price of a girl being from five to +ten cows, her death is equal to the actual loss of that number. + +Fortunately for my party, who were not cattle lifters, there was the +usual abundance of game, and I could always supply myself and people +with delicious wild ducks and geese. We never were tired of this light +food as we varied their preparation. Sometimes I was able to procure a +goat, on which occasion a grand dish was made, the paunch being arranged +as a Scotch "haggis" of wild fowls' livers and flesh minced, with the +usual additions. My garden was flourishing; we had onions, beans, +melons, yams, lettuce, and radishes, which had quickly responded to +several invigorating showers; the temperature was 85 degrees F in the +shade during the hottest hours of the day, and 72 degrees F at night. + +Salt is not procurable in Latooka; the natives seldom use it, as it is +excessively difficult to make it in any quantity from the only two +sources that will produce it; the best is made from goat's dung; this is +reduced ashes, and saturated; the water is then strained off, and +evaporated by boiling. Another quality is made of peculiar grass, with a +thick fleshy stem, something like sugarcane; the ashes of this produce +salt, but by no means pure. The chief of Latooka would eat a handful of +salt greedily that I gave him from my large supply, and I could purchase +supplies with this article better than with beads. + +On the 4th of June, Ibrahim and eighty-five men started for Obbo in +charge of about 400 cows and 1,000 goats. Shortly after their departure, +a violent thunder-storm, attended with a deluge of rain, swept over the +country, and flooded the Latooka river and the various pools that formed +my game-preserves. + +I looked forward to good duck-shooting on the morrow, as a heavy storm +was certain to be followed by large arrivals. + +On the morning of the 5th, I was out at an early hour, and in a very +short time I killed eight ducks and geese. There was a certain pool +surrounded by a small marsh within half a mile of my camp, that formed +the greatest attraction to the wild fowl. There were two hegleek trees +in this marsh; and it was merely necessary to stand beneath the shelter +of either to insure good sport, as the ducks continually arrived at the +pool. + +I was just entering into the sport with all my heart, when I heard a +shot fired in the Turks' camp, followed by loud yells, and I observed a +crowd of Latookas rushing from the camp towards their town. In a few +moments later, I heard the Turks' drum, and I saw people running to and +fro, and the Latookas assembling from the neighbourhood with lances and +shields, as though preparing for a fray. I had only two men with me, and +being nearly half a mile from camp, I thought it advisable to hasten +towards the spot, lest some contretemps should take place before my +arrival. Accordingly I hurried over the open plain, and shortly reached +my camp. I found my wife arranging the men at their posts, fearing a +disturbance. They had seen me hastening towards them, and I now went to +the Turks' camp, that was close by, and inquired the cause of alarm. + +Never was I more disgusted. Already the vultures were swooping in +circles above some object outside the camp. It appeared that a native of +Kayala (the town lately attacked by the Turks) had visited Tarrangolle +to inquire after a missing cow. The chiefs, Moy and Commoro, brought him +to the Turks' camp, merely to prove that he had no evil intention. No +sooner was it announced that he was a native of Kayala than the Turks +declared he was a spy, and condemned him to be shot. The two chiefs, Moy +and Commoro, feeling themselves compromised by having brought the man +into such danger unwittingly, threw themselves before him, and declared +that no harm should befall him, as he belonged to them. Tearing them +away by the combined force of many men, the prisoner was immediately +bound, and led forth by his bloodthirsty murderers to death. "Shoot the +spy!" was hardly pronounced, when a villain stepped forward, and placing +the muzzle of his musket close to his left breast, he fired. + +The man dropped dead, thus murdered in cold blood. The natives rushed in +crowds from the spot, naturally supposing that a general massacre would +follow so unprovoked an outrage. The body was dragged by the heels a few +paces outside the camp, and the vultures were its sextons within a few +minutes of the death. + +It was with difficulty that I could restrain my temper under such +revolting circumstances. I felt that at an unlooked-for moment I might +be compromised in some serious outbreak of the natives, caused by the +brutal acts of the traders. Already it was declared unsafe to venture +out shooting without ten or twelve armed men as escort. + +A mixture of cowardice and brutality, the traders' party became +exceedingly timid, as a report was current that the inhabitants of +Kayala intended to ally themselves to those of Tarrangolle, and to +attack the Turks in their camp. I accordingly strengthened my position +by building a tower of palisades, that entirely commanded all approaches +to my zareeba. + +Latooka was already spoiled by the Turks: it was now difficult to +procure flour and milk for beads, as the traders' people, since the +attack on Kayala, had commenced the system of purchasing all supplies +with either goats or beef, which having been stolen, was their cheapest +medium of exchange. Although rich in beads and copper, I was actually +poor, as I could not obtain supplies. Accordingly I allowanced my men +two pounds of beads monthly, and they went to distant villages and +purchased their own provisions independently of me. + +On the 11th June, at 7.20 A.M., there was a curious phenomenon; the sky +was perfectly clear, but we were startled by a noise like the sudden +explosion of a mine, or the roar of heavy cannon, almost immediately +repeated. It appeared to have originated among the mountains, about +sixteen miles distant due south of my camp. I could only account for +this occurrence by the supposition that an immense mass of the granite +rock might have detached itself from a high mountain, and, in falling to +the valley, it might have bounded from a projection on the mountain's +side, and thus have caused a double report. + +June 13.---I shot ten ducks and geese before breakfast, including one of +the large black and white geese with the crimson head and neck. On my +return to camp I weighed this--exactly eleven pounds; this goose has on +either pinion-joint a sharp, horny spur, an inch in length. During my +morning stroll I met hundreds of natives running excitedly with shields +and spears towards Adda's village: they were going to steal the cattle +from a village about four miles distant; thus there will be a fight in +the course of the day. The Latooka stream is now full, and has the +appearance of a permanent river carrying a considerable body of water to +the Sobat. + +I met with two thieves while duck-shooting this morning--the one an +eagle, and the other a native. The beautiful white-throated fish-eagle +may generally be seen perched upon a bough overhanging the stream, ready +for any prey that may offer. This morning I shot two ducks right and +left as they flew down the course of the river---one fell dead in the +water, but the other, badly hit, fluttered along the surface for some +distance, and was immediately chased and seized by a fish-eagle which, +quite reckless of the gun, had been watching the sport from a high tree, +and evinced a desire to share the results. My men, not to be done out of +their breakfast, gave chase, shouting and yelling to frighten the eagle, +and one of them having a gun loaded with buckshot, fired, and the +whirr-r of the charge induced the eagle to drop the duck, which was +triumphantly seized by the man. + +The other thief was a native. I fired a long shot at a drake; the bird +flew a considerable distance and towered, falling about a quarter of a +mile distant. A Latooka was hoeing close to where it fell, and we +distinctly saw him pick up the bird and run to a bush, in which he hid +it: upon our arrival he continued his work as though nothing had +happened, and denied all knowledge of it: he was accordingly led by the +ear to the bush, where we found the duck carefully secreted. + +June 14.---The natives lost one man killed in the fight yesterday, +therefore the night was passed in singing and dancing. + +The country is drying up; although the stream is full there is no rain +in Latooka, the water in the river being the eastern drainage of the +Obbo mountains, where it rains daily. + +Ibrahimawa, the Bornu man, alias "Sinbad the Sailor," the great +traveller, amuses and bores me daily with his long and wonderful stories +of his travels. The style of his narratives may be conjectured from the +following extracts: "There was a country adjoining Bornu, where the king +was so fat and heavy that he could not walk, until the doctors OPENED +HIS BELLY AND CUT THE FAT OUT, which operation was repeated annually." + +He described another country as a perfect Paradise, where no one ever +drank anything so inferior as water. This country was so wealthy that +the poorest man could drink merissa (beer). He illustrated the general +intoxication by saying, that "after 3 P.M. no one was sober, throughout +the country, and from that hour the cows, goats, and fowls WERE ALL +DRUNK, as they drank the merissa left in the jars by their owners, who +were all asleep." + +He knew all about England, having been a servant, on a Turkish frigate +that was sent to Gravesend. He described an evening entertainment most +vividly. He had been to a ball at an "English Pasha's in Blackwall," and +had succeeded wonderfully with some charming English ladies excessively +"decollete," upon whom he felt sure he had left a lasting impression, as +several had fallen in love with him on the spot, supposing him to be a +Pasha. + +Such were instances of life and recollections of Ibrahimawa, the Bornu. + +On June 16, Koorshid's people returned from Obbo. Ibrahim and a few men +had remained there, and distrusting the warlike spirit of the Latookas, +he now recalled the entire establishment from Tarrangolle, intending to +make a station at the more peaceful country of Obbo. An extract from my +journal on that day explains my feelings: "This is most annoying; I had +arranged my camp and garden, &c. for the wet season, and I must now +leave everything, as it is impossible to remain in this country with my +small force alone; the natives have become so bad (since the cattle +razzia) that a considerable armed party is obliged to go to the stream +for water. It is remarkably pleasant travelling in the vicinity of the +traders;--they convert every country into a wasp's nest;--they have +neither plan of action nor determination, and I, being unfortunately +dependent upon their movements, am more like a donkey than an explorer, +that is saddled and ridden away at a moment's notice. About sixty +natives of Obbo accompanied the men sent by Ibrahim to carry the +effects;--I require at least fifty, as so many of my transport animals +are dead." Nothing can exceed the laziness and dogged indolence of my +men; I have only four who are worth having,---Richarn, Hamed, Sali, and +Taher. + +All the men in either camp were discontented at the order to move, as +they had made themselves comfortable, expecting to remain in Latooka +during the wet season. The two chiefs, Moy and Commoro, found themselves +in a dilemma, as they had allied themselves with the Turks in the attack +upon the neighbouring town, depending upon them for future support; they +were now left in the lurch, and felt themselves hardly a match for their +enemies. A few extracts from my journal will close our sojourn at +Latooka: + +"June 18th.--The white ants are a curse upon the country; although the +hut is swept daily and their galleries destroyed, they rebuild +everything during the night, scaling the supports to the roof and +entering the thatch. Articles of leather or wood are the first devoured. +The rapidity with which they repair their galleries is wonderful; all +their work is carried on with cement; the earth is contained in their +stomachs, and this being mixed with some glutinous matter they deposit +it as bees do their wax. Although the earth of this country if tempered +for house-building will crumble in the rain, the hills of the white ants +remain solid and waterproof, owing to the glue in the cement. I have +seen three varieties of white ants--the largest about the size of a +small wasp: this does not attack dwellings, but subsists upon fallen +trees. The second variety is not so large; this species seldom enters +buildings. The third is the greatest pest: this is the smallest, but +thick and juicy;--the earth is literally alive with them, nor is there +one square foot of ground free from them in Latooka. + +"June 19th.--Had a bad attack of fever yesterday that has been hanging +about me for some days. Weighed all the luggage and packed the stores in +loads of fifty pounds each for the natives to carry. + +"June 20th.--Busy making new ropes from the bark of a mimosa; all hands +at work, as we start the day after to-morrow. My loss in animals makes a +difference of twenty-three porters' loads. I shall take forty natives as +the bad roads will necessitate light loads for the donkeys. I have now +only fourteen donkeys; these are in good condition, and would thrive, +were not the birds so destructive by pecking sores upon their backs. +These sores would heal quickly by the application of gunpowder, but the +birds irritate and enlarge them until the animal, is rendered useless. I +have lost two donkeys simply from the attacks of these birds;--the only +remaining camel and some of the donkeys I have covered with jackets made +of tent-cloth. + +"June 21st.--Nil. + +"June 22d.--We were awoke last night by a report from the sentry that +natives were prowling around the camp;--I accordingly posted three +additional guards. At a little after 2 A.m. a shot was fired, followed +by two others in quick succession, and a sound as of many feet running +quickly was heard passing the entrance of the camp. I was up in a +moment, and my men were quickly under arms: the Turks' drum beat, and +their camp (that was contiguous to mine) was alive with men, but all was +darkness. I lighted my policeman's lantern, that was always kept ready +trimmed, and I soon arrived at the spot where the shot had been fired. +The natives had been endeavouring to steal the cattle from the Turks' +kraal, and favoured by the darkness they had commenced burrowing with +the intention of removing the thorn bushes that formed the fence. +Unfortunately for the thieves, they were unaware that there were +watchers in the kraal among the cattle: it was a pitch dark night, and +nothing could be distinguished; but the attention of one of the sentries +was attracted by the snorting and stamping of the goats, that evidently +denoted the presence of something uncommon. He then perceived close to +him, on the other side the hedge, a dark object crouching, and others +standing, and he heard the bushes moving as though some one was at work +to remove them. He immediately fired; and the sound of a rush of men in +retreat induced both him and the other sentry to repeat the shot. By the +light of the lantern we now searched the place, and discovered the body +of a native lying close to the fence just above a considerable hole that +he had scraped beneath the thorns, in order to extract the stems that +were buried in the ground, and thus by drawing away the bushes he would +have effected an entrance. He had commenced operations exactly opposite +the sentry, and the musket being loaded with mould-shot, he had received +the contents at close quarters. Although he had tempted fate and met +with deserved misfortune, it was most disgusting to witness the +brutality of the Turks, who, tying ropes to the ankles, dragged the body +to the entrance of the camp, and wished for amusement to drive their +bayonets through the chest. + +"Although dying, the man was not dead: a shot had entered one eye, +knocking it out; several had entered the face, chest, and thighs, as he +was in a stooping position when the gun was fired. I would not allow him +to be mutilated, and after groaning in agony for some time, he died. The +traders' people immediately amputated the hands at the wrists, to detach +the copper bracelets, while others cut off his helmet of beads, and the +body was very considerately dragged close to the entrance of my camp. + +"June 22nd.--Finding that the disgusting Turks had deposited the dead +body almost at my door, I had it removed a couple of hundred yards to +leeward. The various birds of prey immediately collected--buzzards, +vultures, crows, and the great Marabou stork. I observed a great +bare-necked vulture almost succeed in turning the body over by pulling +at the flesh of the arm at the opposite side to that where it stood. I +have noticed that birds of prey invariably commence their attack upon +the eyes, inner portions of the thighs, and beneath the arms, before +they devour the coarser portions. In a few hours a well-picked skeleton +was all that was left of the Latooka." + +We were to start on the following day. My wife was dangerously ill with +bilious fever, and was unable to stand, and I endeavoured to persuade +the traders' party to postpone their departure for a few days. They +would not hear of such a proposal; they had so irritated the Latookas +that they feared an attack, and their captain, or vakeel, Ibrahim, had +ordered them immediately to vacate the country. This was a most awkward +position for me. The traders had induced the hostility of the country, +and I should bear the brunt of it should I remain behind alone. Without +their presence I should be unable to procure porters, as the natives +would not accompany my feeble party, especially as I could offer them no +other payment but beads or copper. The rains had commenced within the +last few days at Latooka, and on the route towards Obbo we should +encounter continual storms. We were to march by a long and circuitous +route to avoid the rocky passes that would be dangerous in the present +spirit of the country, especially as the traders possessed large herds +that must accompany the party. They allowed five days' march for the +distance to Obbo by the intended route. This was not an alluring +programme for the week's entertainment, with my wife almost in a dying +state! However, I set to work, and fitted an angarep with arched hoops +from end to end, so as to form a frame like the cap of a wagon. This I +covered with two waterproof Abyssinian tanned hides securely strapped; +and lashing two long poles parallel to the sides of the angarep, I +formed an excellent palanquin. In this she was assisted, and we started +on 23d June. + +Our joint parties consisted of about three hundred men. On arrival at +the base of the mountains, instead of crossing them as before, we +skirted the chain to the northwest, and then rounding through a natural +gap, we ascended gradually towards the south. + +On the fifth day we were, at 5 A.M., within twelve miles of Obbo, and we +bivouacked on a huge mass of granite on the side of a hill, forming an +inclining plateau of about an acre. The natives who accompanied us were +immediately ordered to clear the grass from the insterstices of the +rocks, and hardly had they commenced when a slight disturbance, among +some loose stones that were being removed, showed that something was +wrong. In an instant lances and stones were hurled at some object by the +crowd, and upon my arrival I saw the most horrid monster that I have +ever experienced. I immediately pinned his head to the ground and +severed it at one blow with my hunting-knife, damaging the keen edge of +my favourite weapon upon the hard rock. It was a puff adder of the most +extraordinary dimensions. I then fetched my measuring-tape from the +game-bag, in which it was always at hand. Although the snake was only 5 +ft. 4 in. in length it was slightly above 15 inches in girth. The tail +was, as usual in poisonous snakes, extremely blunt, and the head +perfectly fiat, and about 2 1/2 inches broad, but unfortunately during +my short absence to fetch the measure the natives had crushed it with a +rock. They had thus destroyed it as a specimen, and had broken three of +the teeth, but I counted eight, and secured five poison-fangs, the two +most prominent being nearly an inch in length. The poison-fangs of +snakes are artfully contrived by some diabolical freak of nature as +pointed tubes, through which the poison is injected into the base of the +wound inflicted. The extreme point of the fang is solid, and is so +finely sharpened that beneath a powerful microscope it is perfectly +smooth, although the point of the finest needle is rough. A short +distance above the solid point of the fang the surface of the tube +appears as though cut away, like the first cut of a quill in forming a +pen: through this aperture the poison is injected. + +Hardly had I secured the fangs, when a tremendous clap of thunder shook +the earth and echoed from rock to rock among the high mountains, that +rose abruptly on our left within a mile. Again the lightning flashed, +and almost simultaneously, a deafening peal roared from the black cloud +above us, just as I was kneeling over the archenemy to skin him. He +looked so Satanic with his flat head, and minute cold grey eye, and +scaly hide, with the lightning flashing and the thunder roaring around +him; I felt like St. Dunstan with the devil, and skinned him. The +natives and also my men were horrified, as they would not touch any +portion of such a snake with their hands: even its skin was supposed by +these people to be noxious. Down came the rain; I believe it could not +have rained harder. Mrs. Baker in the palanquin was fortunately like a +snail in her shell; but I had nothing for protection except an oxhide: +throwing myself upon my angarep I drew it over me. The natives had +already lighted prodigious fires, and all crowded around the blaze; but +what would have been the Great Fire of London in that storm? + +In half an hour the fire was out; such a deluge fell that the ravine +that was dry when we first bivouacked, was now an impassable torrent. My +oxhide had become tripe, and my angarep, being covered with a mat, was +some inches deep in water. Throwing away the mat, the pond escaped +through the sieve-like network, but left me drenched. Throughout the +night it poured. We had been wet through every day during the journey +from Latooka, but the nights had been fine; this was superlative misery +to all. At length it ceased--morning dawned; we could not procure fire, +as everything was saturated, and we started on our march through forest +and high reeking grass. By this circuitous route from Latooka we avoided +all difficult passes, as the ground on the west side of the chain of +mountains ascended rapidly but regularly to Obbo. On arrival at my +former hut I found a great change; the grass was at least ten feet high, +and my little camp was concealed in the rank vegetation. Old Katchiba +came to meet us, but brought nothing, as he said the Turks had eaten up +the country. An extract from my journal, dated July 1, explains the +misery of our position. + +"This Obbo country is now a land of starvation. The natives refuse to +supply provision for beads; nor will they barter anything unless in +exchange for flesh. This is the curse that the Turks have brought upon +the country by stealing cattle and throwing them away wholesale. We have +literally nothing to eat except tullaboon, a small bitter grain used in +lieu of corn by the natives: there is no game; if it existed, shooting +would be impossible, as the grass is impenetrable. I hear that the Turks +intend to make a razzia on the Shoggo country near Farajoke; thus they +will stir up a wasp's nest for me wherever I go, and render it +impossible for my small party to proceed alone, or even to remain in +peace. I shall be truly thankful to quit this abominable land; in my +experience I never saw such scoundrels as Africa produces--the natives +of the Soudan being worse than all. It is impossible to make a servant +of any of these people; the apathy, indolence, dishonesty combined with +dirtiness, are beyond description; and their abhorrence of anything like +order increases their natural dislike to Europeans. I have not one man +even approaching to a servant; the animals are neglected, therefore they +die. And were I to die they would rejoice, as they would immediately +join Koorshid's people in cattle stealing and slave hunting;--charming +followers in the time of danger! Such men destroy all pleasure, and +render exploration a mere toil. No one can imagine the hardships and +annoyances to which we are subject, with the additional disgust of being +somewhat dependent upon the traders' band of robbers. For this miserable +situation my vakeel is entirely responsible; had my original escort been +faithful, I should have been entirely independent, and could with my +transport animals have penetrated far south before the commencement of +the rainy season. Altogether I am thoroughly sick of this expedition, +but I shall plod onwards with dogged obstinacy; God only knows the end. +I shall be grateful should the day ever arrive once more to see Old +England." + +Both my wife and I were excessively ill with bilious fever, and neither +could assist the other. The old chief, Katchiba, hearing that we were +dying, came to charm us with some magic spell. He found us lying +helpless, and he immediately procured a small branch of a tree, and +filling his mouth with water, he squirted it over the leaves and about +the floor of the hut; he then waved the branch around my wife's head, +also around mine, and completed the ceremony by sticking it in the +thatch above the doorway; he told us we should now get better, and +perfectly: satisfied, he took his leave. The hut was swarming with rats +and white ants, the former racing over our bodies during the night, and +burrowing through the floor, filling our only room with mounds like +molehills. As fast as we stopped the holes, others were made with +determined perseverance. Having a supply of arsenic, I gave them an +entertainment, the effect being disagreeable to all parties, as the rats +died in their holes, and created a horrible effluvium, while fresh hosts +took the place of the departed. Now and then a snake would be seen +gliding within the thatch, having taken shelter from the pouring rain. +The smallpox was raging throughout the country, and the natives were +dying like flies in winter. The country was extremely unhealthy, owing +to the constant rain and the rank herbage, which prevented a free +circulation of air, and from the extreme damp induced fevers. The +temperature was 65 degrees Fahr. at night, and 72 degrees during the +day; dense clouds obscured the sun for many days, and the air was +reeking with moisture. In the evening it was always necessary to keep a +blazing fire within the hut, as the floor and walls were wet and chilly. + +The wet herbage disagreed with my baggage animals. + +Innumerable flies appeared, including the Tsetse, and in a few weeks the +donkeys had no hair left, either on their ears or legs; they drooped +and died one by one. It was in vain that I erected sheds, and lighted +fires; nothing would protect them from the flies. The moment the fires +were lit, the animals would rush wildly into the smoke, from which +nothing would drive them, and in the clouds of imaginary protection they +would remain all day, refusing food. On the 16th of July my last horse, +Mouse, died; he had a very long tail, for which I obtained A COW IN +EXCHANGE. Nothing was prized so highly as horse's tails, the hairs being +used for stringing beads, and also for making tufts as ornaments, to be +suspended from the elbows. It was highly fashionable in Obbo for the men +to wear such tufts, formed of the bushy ends of cow's-tails. It was also +"the thing" to wear six or eight polished rings of iron, fastened so +tightly round the throat as to almost choke the wearer, somewhat +resembling dog-collars. + +On 18th July, the natives held a great consultation, and ended with a +war-dance; they were all painted in various patterns, with red ochre and +white pipe-clay; their heads adorned with very tasteful ornaments of +cowrie-shells, surmounted by plumes of ostrich-feathers, which drooped +over the back of the neck. After the dance, the old chief addressed them +in a long and vehement speech; he was followed by several other +speakers, all of whom were remarkably fluent, and the resolution of the +meeting was declared "that the nogaras were to be beaten, and men +collected to accompany the Turks on a razzia in the Madi country." + +Ibrahim started with 120 armed men and a mass of Obbo people on the +marauding expedition. + +On the following day Katchiba came to see us, bringing a present of +flour. I gave him a tin plate, a wooden spoon, the last of the tea-cups, +and a tinsel paper of mother-of-pearl shirt buttons, which took his +fancy so immensely, that my wife was begged to suspend it from his neck +like a medal. He was really a very good old fellow--by far the best I +have seen in Africa. He was very suspicious of the Turks, who, he said, +would ultimately ruin him, as, by attacking the Madi tribe, they would +become his enemies, and invade Obbo when the Turks should leave. Cattle +were of very little use in his country, as the flies would kill them; he +had tried all his magic art, but it was of no avail against the flies; +my donkeys would all assuredly die. He said that the losses inflicted +upon the various tribes by the Turks were ruinous, as their chief means +of subsistence was destroyed; without cattle they could procure no +wives; milk, their principle diet, was denied them, and they were driven +to despair; thus they would fight for their cattle, although they would +allow their families to be carried off without resistance; cattle would +procure another family, but if the animals were stolen, there would be +no remedy. + +Flies by day, rats and innumerable bugs by night, heavy dew, daily rain, +and impenetrable reeking grass rendered Obbo a prison about as +disagreeable as could exist. + +The many months of tiresome inaction that I was forced to remain in this +position, I will not venture to inflict upon the reader, but I will +content myself with extracts from my journal from time to time, that +will exhibit the general character of the situation. + +"Aug. 2d.--Several of my men have fever; the boy, Saat, upon receiving a +dose of calomel, asked, `whether he was to swallow the paper in which it +was wrapped?' This is not the first time that I have been asked the same +question by my men. Saat feels the ennui of Obbo, and finds it difficult +to amuse himself; he has accordingly become so far scientific, that he +has investigated the machinery of two of my watches, both of which he +has destroyed. I am now reduced to one watch, the solitary survivor of +four that formed my original family of timekeepers. Having commenced as +a drummer, Saat feels the loss of his drum that was smashed by the +camel; he accordingly keeps his hand in by practising upon anything that +he can adapt to that purpose, the sacred kettle inverted, and a tin cup, +having been drummed until the one became leaky, and the bottom of the +other disappeared. + +"Saat and the black woman are, unfortunately, enemies, and the monotony +of the establishment is sometimes broken by a stand-up fight between him +and his vicious antagonist, Gaddum Her. The latter has received a +practical proof that the boy is growing strong, as I found him the other +day improving her style of beauty by sitting astride upon her stomach, +and punching her eyes with his fists, as she lay upon the ground +furrowing Saat's fat cheeks with her very dirty nails. It is only fair +to the boy to say that Gaddum Her is always the aggressor. + +"It is absurd to see the self-importance of the miserable cut-throats +belonging to Koorshid's party, who, far too great to act as common +soldiers, swagger about with little slave-boys in attendance, who carry +their muskets. I often compare the hard lot of our honest poor in +England with that of these scoundrels, whose courage consists in +plundering and murdering defenceless natives, while the robbers fatten +on the spoil. I am most anxious to see whether the English Government +will take active notice of the White Nile trade, or whether diplomacy +will confine them to simple protest and correspondence, to be silenced +by a promise from the Egyptian Government to put a stop to the present +atrocities. The Egyptian Government will of course promise, and, as +usual with Turks, will never perform. On the other hand, the savages are +themselves bad; one tribe welcomes the Turks as allies against their +neighbours, and sees no crime in murder, provided the result be +'cattle.' This, of course, produces general confusion." + +"AUG. 6TH.--The difficulties of procuring provisions are most serious: +the only method of purchasing flour is as follows. The natives will not +sell it for anything but flesh; to purchase an ox, I require molotes +(hoes): to obtain molotes I must sell my clothes and shoes to the +traders' men. The ox is then driven to a distant village, and is there +slaughtered, and the flesh being divided into about a hundred small +portions, my men sit upon the ground with three large baskets, into +which are emptied minute baskets of flour as the natives produce them, +one in exchange for each parcel of meat. This tedious process is a +specimen of Central African difficulties in the simple act of purchasing +flour. The Obbo natives are similar to the Bari in some of their habits. +I have had great difficulty in breaking my cowkeeper of his disgusting +custom of washing the milk bowl with cow's urine, and even mixing some +with the milk; he declares that unless he washes his hands with such +water before milking, the cow will lose her milk. This filthy custom is +unaccountable. The Obbo natives wash out their mouths with their own +urine. This habit may have originated in the total absence of salt in +their country. The Latookas, on the contrary, are very clean, and milk +could be purchased in their own vessels without fear." + +"Aug. 8th--Having killed a fat ox, the men are busily engaged in +boiling down the fat. Care should be taken to sprinkle a few drops of +water in the pot when the fat is supposed to be sufficiently boiled; +should it hiss, as though poured upon melted lead, it is ready; but if +it be silent, the fat is not sufficiently boiled, and it will not keep. + +"Three runaway female slaves were captured by Koorshid's people this +morning, two of whom were brutally treated. On the whole the female +slaves are well kept when very young, but well thrashed when the black +bloom of youth has passed." + +"Aug. 11th.--At this season immense beetles are at work in vast +numbers, walking off with every species of dung, by forming it into +balls as large as small apples, and rolling them away with their hind +legs, while they walk backwards by means of the forelegs. Should a ball +of dung roll into a deep rut, I have frequently seen another beetle come +to the assistance of the proprietor of the ball, and quarrel for its +possession after their joint labours have raised it to the level. + +"This species was the holy scarabaeus of the ancient Egyptians; it +appears shortly after the commencement of the wet season, its labours +continuing until the cessation of the rains, at which time it +disappears. Was it not worshipped by the ancients as the harbinger of +the high Nile? The existence of Lower Egypt depending upon the annual +inundation, the rise of the river was observed with general anxiety. The +beetle appears at the commencement of the rise in the river level, and +from its great size and extraordinary activity in clearing the earth +from all kinds of ordure, its presence is remarkable. Appearing at the +season of the flood, may not the ancients have imagined some connexion +between the beetle and the river, and have considered it sacred as the +HARBINGER of the inundation? + +"There is a wild bean in this country, the blossom of which has a +delicious perfume of violets. I regret that I have not a supply of paper +for botanical specimens, as many beautiful flowers appeared at the +commencement of the rains. Few thorns and no gums form a strong contrast +to the Soudan, where nearly every tree and shrub is armed." + +"AUG. 13TH.--I had a long examination of a slave woman, Bacheeta, +belonging to one of Koorshid's men. She had been sent two years ago by +the king, Kamrasi, from Unyoro, as a spy among the traders, with orders +to attract them to the country if appearances were favourable, but to +return with a report should they be dangerous people. + +"On her arrival at Faloro, Debono's people captured her, and she was +eventually sold to her present owner. She speaks Arabic, having learnt +it from the traders' people. She declares that Magungo, the place of +which I have heard so much, is only four days' hard marching for a +native, direct from Faloro, but eight days' for the Turks; and that it +is equi-distant from Faloro and from Kamrasi's capital in Unyoro. She +had heard of the Luta N'zige, as reported to Speke, but she knew it only +by the name of 'Kara-wootan-N'zige.' + +"She corroborated the accounts I had formerly received, of large boats +arriving with Arabs at Magungo, and she described the lake as a 'white +sheet as far as the eye could reach.' She particularized it as a +peculiar water, that was unlike other waters, as it would 'come up to a +water-jar, if put upon the shore, and carry it away and break it.' By +this description I understood 'waves.' She also described the 'Gondokoro +river,' or White Nile, as flowing into and out of the lake, and she +spoke of a 'great roar of water that fell from the sky.' + +"I trust I may succeed in reaching this lake: if not, my entire time, +labour, and expenditure will have been wasted, as I throw sport entirely +aside for the sake of this exploration. Were I to think of shooting in +preference to exploring, I could have excellent sport on the Atabbi +river during the dry season, as also on the Kanieti, in the vicinity of +Wakkala; but I must neglect all but the great object, and push on to +Kamrasi's capital, and from thence to the lake. My great anxiety lies in +the conduct of Koorshid's party; should they make razzias south, I shall +be ruined, as my men will be afraid to advance through a disturbed +country. I MUST keep on good terms with the chief of the party, as I +depend upon him for an interpreter and porters. + +"My plan is to prevail on Ibrahim to commence an ivory trade in +Kamrasi's country that might be legitimately conducted, instead of the +present atrocious system of robbery and murder. I like Koorshid, as he +is a bold-spoken robber instead of acting the hypocrite like the other +traders of Khartoum; thus, as he was the only man that was civil to me, +I would do him a good turn could I establish an honest trade between +Kamrasi and himself; at the same time, I should have the advantage of +his party as escort to the desired country. The case commercially lies +as follows:-- + +"Kamrasi's country, Unyoro, is a virgin land, where beads are hardly +known, and where the king is the despotic ruler, whose word is law. All +trade would be conducted through him alone, in the shape of presents, he +giving elephants' tusks, while, in return, Koorshid would send him beads +and various articles annually. Koorshid would thus be the sole trader +with Kamrasi according to White Nile rules, and the abominable system of +cattle robbery would be avoided. + +"The great difficulty attending trade in a distant country is the want +of means of transport, one tribe, being generally hostile to the +adjoining, fears to afford porters beyond the frontier. If I can prove +that the Lake Luta N'zige is one source of the Nile with a navigable +junction, I can at once do away with the great difficulty, and open up a +direct trade for Koorshid. The Lake is in Kamrasi's own dominions: thus +he will have no fear in supplying porters to deliver the ivory at a +depot that might be established, either on the lake or at its junction +with the Nile. A vessel should be built upon the lake, to trade with the +surrounding coasts, and to receive the ivory from the depot. This vessel +would then descend from the lake to the While Nile, to the head of the +cataracts, where a camp should be formed, from which, in a few days' +march, the ivory would reach Gondokoro. + +"A large trade might thus be established, as not only Unyoro would +supply ivory, but the lake would open the navigation to the very heart +of Africa. The advantage of dealing with Kamrasi direct would be great, +as he is not a mere savage, demanding beads and bracelets; but he would +receive printed cottons, and goods of various kinds, by which means the +ivory would be obtained at a merely nominal rate. The depot on the Luta +N'zige should be a general store, at which the vessel ascending from the +station above the cataracts would deliver the various goods from +Gondokoro, and from this store the goods would be disseminated +throughout the countries bordering the lake by means of vessels. + +"The only drawback to this honest trade would be the general hatred of +anything honest by the Khartoumers; the charms of cattle razzias and +slave-hunting, with the attendant murders, attract these villanous +cut-throats to the White Nile expeditions, and I fear it would be +difficult to raise the number of armed men required for safety, were +legitimate trade the sole object of the ivory hunter. + +"Even in Obbo, I believe that printed calicoes, red woollen shirts, +blankets, &c. would purchase ivory. The elevation of this country being +upwards of 3,600 feet, the nights are cold, and even the day is cold +during the wet season; thus clothing is required; this we see in the +first rudiments of covering, the skins of beasts used by the natives; +the Obbo people being the first tribe that adopts a particle of clothing +from the Shillook country (lat. 10 degrees) throughout the entire course +of the White Nile to this latitude (4 degrees 02 minutes). Kamrasi's +tribe are well covered, and farther south, towards Zanzibar, all tribes +are clothed more or less; thus Obbo is the clothing frontier, where the +climate has first prompted the savage to cover himself, while in the hot +lowlands he remains in a state of nakedness. Where clothing is required, +English manufacturers would find a market in exchange for ivory; thus +from this point a fair trade might be commenced. + +"From Farajoke, in the Sooli country, lat. 3 degrees 33 minutes, up to +this date the most southern limit of my explorations, the lake is about +nine or ten days' march in a direct course; but such a route is +impossible, owing to Debono's establishment occupying the intervening +country, and the rules of the traders forbid a trespass upon their +assumed territory. Koorshid's men would refuse to advance by that route; +my men, if alone, will be afraid to travel, and will find some excuse +for not proceeding; from the very outset they have been an absolute +burthen upon me, receiving a monthly allowance of two pounds of beads +per head for doing literally nothing, after having ruined the +independence of my expedition by their mutiny at Gondokoro." + +"AUG. 23d.--My last camel died to-day; thus all my horses and camels +are dead, and only eight donkeys remain out of twenty-one; most of these +will die, if not all. There can be no doubt that the excessive wet in +all the food, owing to the constant rain and dew, is the principal cause +of disease. The camels, horses, and donkeys of the Soudan, all thrive in +the hot dry air of that country, and are unsuited for this damp climate. + +"Had I been without transport animals, my expedition could not have left +Gondokoro, as there was no possibility of procuring porters. I had +always expected that my animals would die, but I had hoped they would +have carried me to the equator: this they would have accomplished during +the two months of comparative dry weather following my arrival at +Gondokoro, had not the mutiny thwarted all my plans, and thrown me into +the wet season. My animals have delivered me at Obbo, and have died in +inaction, instead of wearing out upon the road. Had I been able to start +direct from Gondokoro, as I had intended, my animals would have +delivered me in Kamrasi's country before the arrival of the heavy rains. + +"There is an excellent species of gourd in Obbo; it is pear-shaped, +about ten inches long, and seven in diameter, with a white skin, and +warts upon the surface; this is the most delicate and the best-flavoured +that I have ever eaten. + +"There are two varieties of castor-oil plant in this country--one with a +purple stem and bright red veins in the leaves, that is remarkably +handsome. Also a wild plantain, with a crimson stem to the leaf; this +does not grow to the height of the common plantain, but is simply a +plume of leaves springing from the ground without a parent stem." + +"Aug. 30th.--Mrs. Baker and I made a morning call for the first time +upon old Katchiba by his express desire. His courtyard was cemented and +clean, about a hundred feet in diameter, surrounded by palisades, which +were overgrown with gourds and the climbing yam, Collolollo. There were +several large huts in the inclosure, belonging to his wives; he received +us very politely, and begged us to enter his principal residence; it was +simply arranged, being the usual circular hut, but about twenty-five +feet in diameter. + +"Creeping on all fours through the narrow doorway, we found ourselves in +the presence of one of his wives, who was preparing merissa. The +furniture of the apartment was practical, and quite in accordance with +the taste of the old chief, as the whole establishment appeared to be +devoted to brewing merissa. There were several immense jars capable of +holding about thirty gallons: some of these were devoted to beer, while +one was reserved to contain little presents that he had received from +ourselves and the Turks, including a much-esteemed red flannel shirt: +these recherche objects were packed in the jar, and covered by a smaller +vessel inverted on the mouth to protect them from rats and white ants. +Two or three well-prepared ox-hides were spread upon the ground; and he +requested Mrs. Baker to sit on his right hand, while I sat upon the +left. Thus satisfactorily arranged, he called for some merissa, which +his wife immediately brought in an immense gourd-shell, and both my wife +and I having drunk, he took a long draught, and finished the gourd. + +"The delightful old sorcerer, determined to entertain us, called for his +rababa: a species of harp was handed to him; this was formed of a hollow +base and an upright piece of wood, from which descended eight strings. +Some time was expended in carefully tuning his instrument, which, being +completed, he asked, 'if he should sing?' Fully prepared for something +comic, we begged him to begin. He sang a most plaintive and remarkably +wild, but pleasing air, accompanying himself perfectly on his harp, +producing the best music that I had ever heard among savages. In fact, +music and dancing were old Katchiba's delight, especially if combined +with deep potations. + +"His song over, he rose from his seat and departed, but presently +reappeared leading a sheep by a string, which he begged us to accept. I +thanked him for his attention, but I assured him that we had not paid +him a visit with the expectation of receiving a present, and that we +could not think of accepting it, as we had simply called upon him as +friends; he accordingly handed the sheep to his wife, and shortly after +we rose to depart. Having effected an exit by creeping through the +doorway, he led us both by the hand in a most friendly way for about a +hundred yards on our path, and took leave most gracefully, expressing a +hope that we should frequently come to see him. + +"On our return home we found the sheep waiting for us; determined not to +be refused, he had sent it on before us. I accordingly returned him a +most gorgeous necklace of the most valuable beads, and gave the native +who had brought the sheep a present for himself and wife; thus all +parties were satisfied, and the sheep was immediately killed for dinner. + +"The following morning Katchiba appeared at my door with a large red +flag made of a piece of cotton cloth that the Turks had given him; he +was accompanied by two men beating large drums, and a third playing a +kind of clarionet: this playing at soldiers was an imitation of the +Turks. He was in great spirits, being perfectly delighted with the +necklace I had sent him." + +"Oct. 6th.--I have examined my only remaining donkey: he is a picture of +misery--eyes and nose running, coat staring, and he is about to start to +join his departed comrades; he has packed up for his last journey. With +his loose skin hanging to his withered frame he looked like the British +lion on the shield over the door of the Khartoum consulate. In that +artistic effort the lion was equally lean and ragged, having perhaps +been thus represented by the artist as a pictorial allusion to the +smallness of the Consul's pay; the illustration over the shabby gateway +utters, 'Behold my leanness! 150l. per annum!' + +"I feel a touch of the poetic stealing over me when I look at my +departing donkey. 'I never loved a dear gazelle,' &c.: but the practical +question, 'Who is to carry the portmanteau?' remains unanswered. I do +not believe the Turks have any intention of going to Kamrasi's country; +they are afraid, as they have heard that he is a powerful king, and they +fear the restrictions that power will place upon their felonious +propensities. In that case I shall go on without them; but they have +deceived me, by borrowing 165 lbs. of beads which they cannot repay; +this puts me to much inconvenience. The Asua river is still impassable, +according to native reports; this will, prevent a general advance south. +Should the rains cease, the river will fall rapidly, and I shall make a +forward move and escape this prison of high grass and inaction." + +"Oct. 11th.--Lions roaring every night, but not visible. I set my men to +work to construct a fortified camp, a simple oblong of palisades with +two flanking projections at opposite angles to command all approaches; +the lazy scoundrels are sulky in consequence. Their daily occupation is +drinking merissa, sleeping, and strumming on the rababa, while that of +the black women is quarrelling--one ebony sister insulting the other by +telling her that she is as 'black as the kettle,' and recommending her, +'to eat poison.'" + +"Oct. 17th.--I expect an attack of fever tomorrow or next day, as I +understand from constant and painful experiences every step of this +insidious disease. For some days one feels a certain uneasiness of +spirits difficult to explain; no peculiar symptom is observed until a +day or two before the attack, when great lassitude is felt, with a +desire to sleep. Rheumatic pains in the loins, back, and joints of the +limbs are accompanied by a sense of great weakness. A cold fit comes on +very quickly; this is so severe that it almost immediately affects the +stomach, producing painful vomiting with severe retching. The eyes are +heavy and painful, the head hot and aching, the extremities pale and +cold, pulse very weak, and about fifty-six beats per minute; the action +of the heart distressingly weak, with total prostration of strength. +This shivering and vomiting continues for about two hours, attended with +great difficulty of breathing. The hot stage then comes on, the retching +still continuing, with the difficulty of breathing, intense weakness and +restlessness for about an hour and a half, which, should the remedies be +successful, terminate in profuse perspiration and sleep. The attack +ends, leaving the stomach in a dreadful state of weakness. The fever is +remittent, the attack returning almost at the same hour every two days, +and reducing the patient rapidly to a mere skeleton; the stomach refuses +to act, and death ensues. Any severe action of the mind, such as grief +or anger, is almost certain to be succeeded by fever in this country. My +stock of quinine is reduced to a few grains, and my work lies before me; +my cattle are all dead. We are both weakened by repeated fever, and +travelling must be on foot." + + + +CHAPTER X + +LIFE AT OBBO. + +For months we dragged on a miserable existence at Obbo, wrecked by +fever; the quinine exhausted; thus the disease worried me almost to +death, returning at intervals of a few days. Fortunately my wife did not +suffer so much as I did. I had nevertheless prepared for the journey +south; and as travelling on foot would have been impossible in our weak +state, I had purchased and trained three oxen in lieu of horses. They +were named "Beef," "Steaks," and "Suet." "Beef" was a magnificent +animal, but having been bitten by the flies, he so lost his condition +that I changed his name to "Bones." We were ready to start, and the +natives reported that early in January the Asua would be fordable. I had +arranged with Ibrahim that he should supply me with porters for payment +in copper bracelets, and that he should accompany me with one hundred +men to Kamrasi's country (Unyoro), on condition that he would restrain +his people from all misdemeanours, and that they should be entirely +subservient to me. It was the month of December, and during the nine +months that I had been in correspondence with his party I had succeeded +in acquiring an extraordinary influence. Although my camp was nearly +three-quarters of a mile from their zareeba, I had been besieged daily +for many months for everything that was wanted; my camp was a kind of +general store that appeared to be inexhaustible. I gave all that I had +with a good grace, and thereby gained the goodwill of the robbers, +especially as my large medicine chest contained a supply of drugs that +rendered me in their eyes a physician of the first importance. I had +been very successful with my patients; and the medicines that I +generally used being those which produced a very decided effect, both +the Turks and natives considered them with perfect faith. There was +seldom any difficulty in prognosticating the effect of tartar emetic, +and this became the favourite drug that was applied for almost daily; a +dose of three grains enchanting the patient, who always advertised my +fame by saying, "He told me I should be sick, and, by Allah! there was +no mistake about it." Accordingly there was a great run upon the tartar +emetic. Many people in Debono's camp had died, including several of my +deserters who had joined them. News was brought that, in three separate +fights with the natives, my deserters had been killed on every occasion, +and my men and those of Ibrahim unhesitatingly declared it was the "hand +of God." None of Ibrahim's men had died since we left Latooka. One man, +who had been badly wounded by a lance thrust through his abdomen, I +successfully treated; the trading party, who would at one time gladly +have exterminated me, now exclaimed, "What shall we do when the Sowar +(traveller) leaves the country?" Mrs. Baker had been exceedingly kind +to the women and children of both the traders and natives, and together +we had created so favourable an impression that we were always referred +to as umpires in every dispute. My own men, although indolent, were so +completely disciplined that they would not have dared to disobey an +order, and they looked back upon their former mutinous conduct with +surprise at their own audacity, and declared that they feared to return +to Khartoum, as they were sure that I should not forgive them. + +I had promised Ibrahim that I would use my influence with the King of +Unyoro to procure him the ivory of that country;--I had a good supply +of beads, while Ibrahim had none; thus he was dependent upon me for +opening the road. Everything looked fair, and had I been strong and well +I should have enjoyed the future prospect; but I was weak and almost +useless, and weighed down with anxiety lest I might die and my wife +would be left alone. + +The rains had ceased, and the wild grapes were ripe the natives brought +them in great quantities in exchange for a few beads. They were in +extremely large bunches, invariably black, and of a good size, but not +juicy--the flavour was good, and they were most refreshing, and +certainly benefited my health. I pressed about two hundred pounds of +grapes in the large sponging bath, but procured so little juice, and +that so thick, that winemaking proved a failure; it fermented, and we +drank it, but it was not wine. One day, hearing a great noise of voices +and blowing of horns in the direction of Katchiba's residence, I sent to +inquire the cause. The old chief himself appeared very angry and +excited. He said, that his people were very bad, that they had been +making a great noise and finding fault with him because he had not +supplied them with a few showers, as they wanted to sow their crop of +tullaboon. There had been no rain for about a fortnight. + +"Well," I replied, "you are the rainmaker; why don't you give your +people rain?" "Give my people rain!" said Katchiba. "I give them rain if +they don't give me goats? You don't know my people; if I am fool enough +to give them rain before they give me the goats, they would let me +starve! No, no! let them wait--if they don't bring me supplies of corn, +goats, fowls, yams, merissa, and all that I require, not one drop of +rain shall ever fall again in Obbo! Impudent brutes are my people! Do +you know, they have positively threatened to kill me unless I bring the +rain? They shan't have a drop; I will wither the crops, and bring a +plague upon their flocks. I'll teach these rascals to insult me!" + +With all this bluster, I saw that old Katchiba was in a great dilemma, +and that he would give anything for a shower, but that he did not know +how to get out of the scrape. It was a common freak of the tribes to +sacrifice the rainmaker, should he be unsuccessful. He suddenly altered +his tone, and asked, "Have you any rain in your country?" I replied that +we had, every now and then. "How do you bring it? Are you a rainmaker?" +I told him that no one believed in rainmakers in our country, but that +we understood how to bottle lightning (meaning electricity). "I don't +keep mine in bottles, but I have a houseful of thunder and lightning," +he most coolly replied; "but if you can bottle lightning you must +understand rainmaking. + +"What do you think of the weather today?" I immediately saw the drift of +the cunning old Katchiba; he wanted professional advice. I replied, +that he must know all about it, as he was a regular rainmaker. "Of +course I do," he answered, "but I want to know what YOU think of it." +"Well," I said, "I don't think we shall have any steady rain, but I +think we may have a heavy shower in about four days." (I said this as I +had observed fleecy clouds gathering daily in the afternoon). "Just my +opinion!" said Katchiba, delighted; "in four or perhaps in five days I +intend to give them one shower; just one shower; yes, I'll just step +down to them now, and tell the rascals, that if they will bring me some +goats by this evening, and some corn tomorrow morning, I will give them +in four or five days just one shower." To give effect to his declaration +he gave several toots upon his magic whistle. "Do you use whistles in +your country?" inquired Katchiba. I only replied by giving so shrill and +deafening a whistle on my fingers that Katchiba stopped his ears; and +relapsing into a smile of admiration he took a glance at the sky from +the doorway to see if any sudden effect bad been produced. "Whistle +again," he said; and once more I performed like the whistle of a +locomotive. "That will do, we shall have it," said the cunning old +rainmaker; and proud of having so knowingly obtained "counsel's opinion" +on his case, he toddled off to his impatient subjects. + +In a few days a sudden storm of rain and violent thunder added to +Katchiba's renown, and after the shower, horns were blowing and nogaras +were beating in honour of their chief. Entre nous, my whistle was +considered infallible. + +The natives were busy sowing the new crop just as the last crop was +ripening. It did not appear likely that they would reap much for their +labour, as the elephants, having an accurate knowledge of the season, +visited their fields nightly, and devoured and trampled the greater +portion. I had been too ill to think of shooting, as there was no other +method than to watch in the tullaboon fields at night; the high grass in +which the elephants harboured being impenetrable. Feeling a little +better I took my men to the field about a mile from the village, and dug +a hole, in which I intended to watch. + +That night I took Richarn, and we sat together in our narrow grave. +There was no sound throughout the night. I was well wrapped up in a +Scotch plaid, but an attack of ague came on, and I shivered as though in +Lapland. I had several rifles in the grave; among others the "Baby," +that carried a half-pound explosive shell. At about 4 A.M. I heard the +distant trumpet of an elephant, and I immediately ordered Richarn to +watch, and to report to me their arrival. It was extremely dark, but +Richarn presently sank slowly down, and whispered, "Here they are!" + +Taking the "Baby," I quietly rose, and listening attentively, I could +distinctly hear the elephants tearing off the heads of the tullaboon, +and crunching the crisp grain. I could distinguish the dark forms of the +herd about thirty paces from me, but much too indistinct for a shot. I +stood with my elbows resting on the edge of the hole, and the heavy +rifle balanced, waiting for an opportunity. I had a papersight arranged +for night shooting, and I several times tried to get the line of an +elephant's shoulder, but to no purpose; I could distinguish the sight +clearly, but not the elephant. As I was watching the herd I suddenly +heard a trumpet close to my left, and I perceived an elephant quickly +walking exactly towards my grave. I waited with the rifle at my shoulder +until he was within about twelve paces; I then whistled, and he stopped, +and turned quickly, exposing his side. Taking the line of the foreleg, I +fired at the shoulder. The tremendous flash and smoke of ten drachms of +powder completely blinded me, and the sudden reaction of darkness +increased the obscurity. I could distinguish nothing; but I heard a +heavy fall, and a few moments after I could hear a rustling in the grass +as the herd of elephants retreated into the grass jungles. Richarn +declared that the elephant had fallen; but I again heard a rustling in +the high grass jungle within eighty yards of me, and this sound +continued in the same place. I accordingly concluded that the elephant +was very badly wounded, and that he could not move from the spot. +Nothing could be seen. + +At length the birds began to chirp, and the "blacksmith" (as I named one +of the first to wake, whose two sharp ringing notes exactly resemble the +blows of a hammer upon an anvil) told me that it was nearly daybreak. +The grey of morning had just appeared when I heard voices, and I saw +Mrs. Baker coming along the field with a party of men, whom she had +brought down from the village with knives and axes. She had heard the +roar of the heavy rifle, and knowing the "Baby's" scream, and the usual +fatal effects, she had considered the elephant as bagged. The natives +had also heard the report, and people began to accumulate from all +quarters for the sake of the flesh. The elephant was not dead, but was +standing about ten yards within the grass jungle; however, in a short +time a heavy fall sounded his knell, and the crowd rushed in. He was a +fine bull, and before I allowed him to be cut up, I sent for the +measuring tape; the result being as follows: + + From tip of trunk to fleshy end of tail . . . 26 feet 0.5 inches + Height from shoulder to forefoot in a perpendicular line 10 ft 6.5 in + Girth of forefoot .. . . . . . . . . . 4 ft 10.25 in + Length of one tusk in the curve . . . . . . . 6 ft 6 in + Ditto of fellow tusk (el Hadam, the servant) . . . . 5 ft 11 in + Weight of tusks, 80 lbs. and 69 lbs. = 149 lbs. + +The ridiculous accounts that I have read, stating that the height of +elephants attains FIFTEEN feet, is simply laughable ignorance. A +difference of a foot in an elephant's height is enormous; he appears a +giant among his lesser comrades. Observe the difference between a horse +sixteen hands high and a pony of thirteen hands, and the difference of a +foot in the height of a quadruped is exemplified. The word being given, +the crowd rushed upon the elephant, and about three hundred people were +attacking the carcase with knives and lances. About a dozen men were +working inside as though in a tunnel; they had chosen this locality as +being near to the fat, which was greatly coveted. + +A few days later I attempted to set fire to the grass jungle, but it +would not burn thoroughly, leaving scorched stems that were rendered +still tougher by the fire. On the following evening I took a stroll over +the burnt ground to look for game. No elephants had visited the spot; +but as I was walking along expecting nothing, up jumped a wild boar and +sow from the entrance of a large hole of the Manis, or great scaled +anteater. Being thus taken by surprise, the boar very imprudently +charged me, and was immediately knocked over dead by a shot through the +spine from the little Fletcher rifle, while the left-hand barrel rolled +over his companion, who almost immediately recovered and disappeared in +the grass jungle; however, there was pork for those who liked it, and I +went to the camp and sent a number of natives to bring it home. The Obbo +people were delighted, as it was their favourite game, but none of my +people would touch the unclean animal. The wild pigs of this country +live underground; they take possession of the holes made by the Manis: +these they enlarge and form cool and secure retreats. + +A bad attack of fever laid me up until the 31st of December. On the +first day of January, 1864, I was hardly able to stand, and was nearly +worn out at the very time that I required my strength, as we were to +start south in a few days. + +Although my quinine had been long since exhausted, I had reserved ten +grains to enable me to start in case the fever should attack me at the +time of departure. I now swallowed my last dose, and on 3d January, I +find the following note in my journal: "All ready for a start tomorrow. +I trust the year 1864 will bring better luck than the past, that having +been the most annoying that I have ever experienced, and full of fever. +I hope now to reach Kamrasi's country in a fortnight, and to obtain +guides from him direct to the lake. My Latooka, to whom I have been very +kind, has absconded: there is no difference in any of these savages; if +hungry, they will fawn upon you, and when filled, they will desert. I +believe that ten years' residence in the Soudan and this country would +spoil an Angel, and would turn the best heart to stone." + +It was difficult to procure porters, therefore I left all my effects at +my camp in charge of two of my men, and I determined to travel light, +without the tent, and to take little beyond ammunition and cooking +utensils. Ibrahim left forty-five men in his zareeba, and on the 5th of +January we started. Mrs. Baker rode her ox, but my animal being very +shy, I ordered him to be driven for about a mile with the others to +accustom him to the crowd: not approving of the expedition, he bolted +into the high grass with my English saddle, and I never saw him again. +In my weak state I had to walk. We had not gone far when a large fly +fastened upon Mrs. Baker's ox, just by his tail, the effect of which was +to produce so sudden a kick and plunge, that he threw her to the ground +and hurt her considerably: she accordingly changed the animal, and rode +a splendid ox that Ibrahim very civilly offered. I had to walk to the +Atabbi, about eighteen miles, which, although a pleasant stroll when in +good health, I found rather fatiguing. We bivouacked on the south bank +of the Atabbi. + +The next morning, after a walk of about eight miles, I purchased of one +of the Turks the best ox that I have ever ridden, at the price of a +double-barrelled gun---it was a great relief to be well mounted, as I +was quite unfit for a journey on foot. + +At 4.30 P.m. we arrived at one of the villages of Farajoke. The +character of the country had entirely changed; instead of the rank and +superabundant vegetation of Obbo, we were in a beautiful open country, +naturally drained by its undulating character, and abounding in most +beautiful low pasturage. Vast herds of cattle belonged to the different +villages, but these had all been driven to concealment, as the report +had been received that the Turks were approaching. The country was +thickly populated, but the natives appeared very mistrustful; the Turks +immediately entered the villages, and ransacked the granaries for corn, +digging up the yams, and helping themselves to everything as though +quite at home. I was on a beautiful grass sward on the gentle slope of a +hill: here I arranged to bivouac for the night. + +In three days' march from this point through beautiful park-like +country, we arrived at the Asua river. The entire route from Farajoke +had been a gentle descent, and I found this point of the Asua in lat N. +3 degrees 12 minutes to be 2,875 feet above the sea level, 1,091 feet +lower than Farajoke. The river was a hundred and twenty paces broad, and +from the bed to the top of the perpendicular banks was about fifteen +feet. At this season it was almost dry, and a narrow channel of about +six inches deep flowed through the centre of the otherwise exhausted +river. The bed was much obstructed by rocks, and the inclination was so +rapid that I could readily conceive the impossibility of crossing it +during the rains. It formed the great drain of the country, all its +waters flowing to the Nile, but during the dry months it was most +insignificant. The country between Farajoke and the Asua, although +lovely, was very thinly populated, and the only villages that I saw were +built upon low hills of bare granite, which lay in huge piles of +disjointed fragments. + +On arrival at the river, while the men were washing in the clear stream, +I took a rifle and strolled along the margin; I shortly observed a herd +of the beautiful Mehedehet antelopes feeding upon the rich but low grass +of a sandbank in the very centre of the river. Stalking them to within a +hundred and twenty paces they obtained my wind, and, ceasing to graze, +they gazed intently at me. I was on the high bank among the bushes, and +I immediately picked out the biggest, and fired, missing my mark. All +dashed away except the animal at which I fired, who stood in uncertainty +for a few moments, when the second barrel of the Fletcher 24 rifle +knocked him over, striking him through the neck. Hearing the quick +double shot, my people came running to the spot, accompanied by a number +of the native porters, and were rejoiced to find a good supply of meat; +the antelope weighed about five hundred pounds, and was sufficient to +afford a good dinner for the whole party. + +The Mehedehet is about 13 hands high, with rough, brown hair like the +Samber deer of India. Our resting-place was on the dry, rocky bed of the +river, close to the edge of the shallow but clear stream that rippled +over the uneven surface. Some beautiful tamarind trees afforded a most +agreeable shade, and altogether it was a charming place to bivouac. +Although at Obbo the grass was not sufficiently dry to burn, in this +country it was reduced to a crisp straw, and I immediately set fire to +the prairies; the wind was strong, and we had a grand blaze, the flames +crackling and leaping about thirty feet high, and sweeping along with so +mad a fury that within an hour the entire country was a continuous line +of fire. Not a trace of vegetation remained behind; the country appeared +as though covered with a pall of black velvet. Returning from my work, I +found my camping place well arranged--beds prepared, and a good dinner +ready of antelope soup and cutlets. On waking the next morning, I found +that the Turks had all disappeared during the night, and that I was +alone with my people. It was shortly explained that they had departed to +attack some village, to which they were guided by some natives who had +accompanied them from Farajoke. + +I accordingly took my rifle and strolled along the margin of the river +to look for game, accompanied by two of my porters. Although it was a +most likely country, being a natural park well timbered, with a river +flowing through the midst, there was a great scarcity of wild animals. +At length, in crossing a ravine that had stopped the progress of the +fire, an antelope (water buck) jumped out of a hollow, and, rushing +through the high grass, he exposed himself for an instant in crossing +the summit of a bare knoll, and received a ball from the little Fletcher +in the hindquarters. Although badly wounded, he was too nimble for my +natives, who chased him with their spears for about a quarter of a mile. +These fellows tracked him beautifully, and we at length found him hiding +in a deep pool in the river, and he was immediately dispatched. + +After a long walk, during which I did not obtain another shot, I +returned to my resting-place, and, refreshed by a bathe in the cool +river, I slept as sound as though in the most luxurious bed in England. +On the following morning I went out early, and shot a small species of +antelope; and shortly after my return to breakfast, the Turks' party +arrived, bringing with them about three hundred head of cattle that they +had captured from the Madi tribe. They did not seem at all in good +spirits, and I shortly heard that they had lost their standard-bearer, +killed in the fight, and that the flag had been in great peril, and had +been saved by the courage of a young Bari slave. The ensign was +separated from the main party, and was attacked by four natives, who +killed the bearer, and snatched away the flag: this would inevitably +have been lost, had not the Bari boy of about fifteen shot the foremost +native dead with a pistol, and, snatching the flag from his hands, ran +with it towards the Turks, some of whom coming up at that instant, the +natives did not think it wise to pursue their advantage. A number of +slaves had been captured; among others, several young children, one of +whom was an infant. These unfortunate women and children, excepting the +infant, were all tied by the neck with a long leathern thong, so as to +form a living chain, and guards were set over them to prevent escape. + +The Bari natives would make good soldiers, as they are far more +courageous than most of the savage tribes. The best men among the party +of Ibrahim are Baris; among them is a boy named Arnout; he is the +drummer, and he once saved his master in a fight by suddenly presenting +his drumstick like a pistol at several natives, who had attacked him +while unloaded. The natives, seeing the determined attitude of the boy, +and thinking that the drumstick was a firearm, ran off. We started at +daybreak on 13th January, and, ascending the whole way, we reached +Shooa, in latitude 3 degrees 4 minutes. The route throughout had been of +the same parklike character, interspersed with occasional hills of fine +granite, piled in the enormous blocks so characteristic of that stone. + +Shooa was a lovely place. A fine granite mountain ascended in one block +in a sheer precipice for about 800 feet from its base, perfectly abrupt +on the eastern side, while the other portions of the mountain were +covered with fine forest trees, and picturesquely dotted over with +villages. This country formed a natural park, remarkably well watered by +numerous rivulets, ornamented with fine timber, and interspersed with +numerous high rocks of granite, which from a distance produced the +effect of ruined castles. + +The pasturage was of a superior quality, and of the same description as +that of Farajoke. The country being undulating, there was a small brook +in every valley that formed a natural drain. Accordingly, the more +elevated land was remarkably dry and healthy. On arrival at the foot of +the abrupt mountain, we camped beneath an immense india-rubber tree, +that afforded a delightful shade, from which elevated spot we had a +superb view of the surrounding country, and could see the position of +Debono's camp, about twenty-five miles to the west by north, at the foot +of the Faloro hills. + +By Casella's thermometer, I determined the altitude of Shooa to be 3,877 +feet--1,002 feet above the Asua river, and 89 feet lower than +Farajoke. These observations of the thermometer agreed with the natural +appearance of the country, the Asua river forming the main drain in a +deep valley, into which innumerable rivulets convey the drainage from +both north and south. Accordingly, the Asua, receiving the Atabbi river, +which is the main drain of the western face of the Madi mountains, and +the entire drainage of the Madi and Shooa countries, together with that +of extensive countries to the east of Shooa, including the rivers Chombi +and Udat, from Lira and Umiro, it becomes a tremendous torrent so long +as the rains continue, and conveys a grand volume of water to the Nile; +but the inclination of all these countries tending rapidly to the +northwest, the bed of the Asua river partakes of the general incline, +and so quickly empties after the cessation of the rains that it becomes +nil as a river. By the mean of several observations I determined the +latitude of Shooa 3 degrees 04 minutes, longitude 32 degrees 04 minutes +E. + +We were now about twelve miles south of Debono's outpost, Faloro. The +whole of the Shooa country was assumed to belong to Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, +the vakeel of Debono, and we had passed the ashes of several villages +that had been burnt and plundered by these people between Farajoke and +this point; the entire country had been laid waste. + +There was no great chief at Shooa; each village had a separate headman; +formerly the population had occupied the lower ground, but since the +Turks had been established at Faloro and had plundered the neighbouring +tribes, the natives had forsaken their villages and had located +themselves among the mountains for security. It was the intention of +Ibrahim to break through the rules accepted by the White Nile traders, +and to establish himself at Shooa, which, although claimed by Debono's +people, would form an excellent point d'appui for operations towards the +unknown south. + +Shooa was "flowing with milk and honey;" fowls, butter, goats, were in +abundance and ridiculously cheap; beads were of great value, as few had +ever reached that country. The women flocked to see Mrs. Baker, bringing +presents of milk and flour, and receiving beads and bracelets in return. +The people were precisely the same as those of Obbo and Farajoke in +language and appearance, exceedingly mild in their manner, and anxious +to be on good terms. + +The cultivation in this country was superior to anything that I had seen +farther north; large quantities of sesame were grown and carefully +harvested, the crop being gathered and arranged in oblong frames about +twenty feet long by twelve high. These were inclined at an angle of +about sixty--the pods of the sesame plants on one face, so that the +frames resembled enormous brushes. In this manner the crop was dried +previous to being stored in the granaries. Of the latter there were two +kinds---the wicker-work smeared with cow dung, supported on four posts, +with a thatched roof; and a simple contrivance by fixing a stout pole +about twenty feet long perpendicularly in the earth. About four feet +from the ground a bundle of strong and long reeds are tied tightly round +the pole; hoops of wicker-work are then bound round them at intervals +until they assume the form of an inverted umbrella half expanded; this +being filled with grain, fresh reeds are added, until the work has +extended to within a few feet of the top of the pole; the whole is then +capped with reeds securely strapped: the entire granary has the +appearance of a cigar, but thicker in proportion about the middle. + +Two days after our arrival at Shooa, the whole of our Obbo porters +absconded: they had heard that we were bound for Kamrasi's country, and +having received exaggerated accounts of his power from the Shooa people, +they had determined upon retreat: thus we were at once unable to +proceed, unless we could procure porters from Shooa. This was +exceedingly difficult, as Kamrasi was well known here, and was not +loved. His country was known as "Quanda," and I at once recognised the +corruption of Speke's "Uganda." The slave woman, "Bacheeta," who had +formerly given me in Obbo so much information concerning Kamrasi's +country, was to be our interpreter; but we also had the luck to discover +a lad who had formerly been employed by Mahommed in Faloro, who also +spoke the language of Quanda, and had learnt a little Arabic. I now +discovered that the slave woman Bacheeta had formerly been in the +service of a chief named Sali, who had been killed by Kamrasi. Sali was +a friend of Rionga (Kamrasi's greatest enemy), and I had been warned by +Speke not to set foot upon Rionga's territory, or all travelling in +Unyoro would be cut off. I plainly saw that Bacheeta was in favour of +Rionga, as a friend of the murdered Sali, by whom she had had two +children, and that she would most likely tamper with the guide, and that +we should be led to Rionga instead of to Kamrasi. There were "wheels +within wheels." It was now reported that in the past year, immediately +after the departure of Speke and Grant from Gondokoro, when Debono's +people had left me in the manner already described, they had marched +direct to Rionga, allied themselves to him, crossed the Nile with his +people, and had attacked Kamrasi's country, killing about three hundred +of his men, and capturing many slaves. I now understood why they had +deceived me at Gondokoro; they had obtained information of the country +from Speke's people, and had made use of it by immediately attacking +Kamrasi in conjunction with Rionga. + +This would be a pleasant introduction for me on entering Unyoro, as +almost immediately after the departure of Speke and Grant, Kamrasi had +been invaded by the very people into whose hands his messengers had +delivered them, when they were guided from Unyoro to the Turks' station +at Faloro; he would naturally have considered that the Turks had been +sent by Speke to attack him; thus the road appeared closed to all +exploration, through the atrocities of Debono's people. + +Many of Ibrahim's men, at hearing this intelligence, refused to proceed +to Unyoro. Fortunately for me, Ibrahim had been extremely unlucky in +procuring ivory; the year had almost passed away, and he had a mere +nothing with which to return to Gondokoro. I impressed upon him how +enraged Koorshid would be should he return with such a trifle; already +his own men declared that he was neglecting razzias, because he was to +receive a present from me if we reached Unyoro; this they would report +to his master (Koorshid), and it would be believed should he fail in +securing ivory. I guaranteed him 100 cantars (10,000 lbs.) if he would +push on at all hazards with me to Kamrasi, and secure me porters from +Shooa. Ibrahim behaved remarkably well. For some time past I had +acquired a great influence over him, and he depended so thoroughly upon +my opinion that he declared himself ready to do all that I suggested. +Accordingly I desired him to call his men together, and to leave in +Shooa all those who were disinclined to follow us. + +At once I arranged for a start, lest some fresh idea should enter the +ever-suspicious brains of our followers, and mar the expedition. + +It was difficult to procure porters, and I abandoned all that was not +indispensable--our last few pounds of rice and coffee, and even the +great sponging-bath, that emblem of civilization that had been clung to +even when the tent had been left behind. + +On the 18th January, 1864, we left Shooa. The pure air of that country +had invigorated us, and I was so improved in strength, that I enjoyed +the excitement of the launch into unknown lands. The Turks knew nothing +of the route south, and I accordingly took the lead of the entire party. +I had come to a distinct understanding with Ibrahim that Kamrasi's +country should belong to ME; not an act of felony would be permitted; +all were to be under my government, and I would insure him at least 100 +cantars of tusks. + +Eight miles of agreeable march through the usual parklike country +brought us to the village of Fatiko, situated upon a splendid plateau of +rock upon elevated ground with beautiful granite cliffs, bordering a +level tableland of fine grass that would have formed a racecourse. The +high rocks were covered with natives, perched upon the outline like a +flock of ravens. + +We halted to rest under some fine trees growing among large isolated +blocks of granite and gneiss. In a short time the natives assembled +around us: they were wonderfully friendly, and insisted upon a personal +introduction to both myself and Mrs. Baker. We were thus compelled to +hold a levee; not the passive and cold ceremony of Europe, but a most +active undertaking, as each native that was introduced performed the +salaam of his country, by seizing both my hands and raising my arms +three times to their full stretch above my head. After about one hundred +Fatikos had been thus gratified by our submission to this infliction, +and our arms had been subjected to at least three hundred stretches +each, I gave the order to saddle the oxen immediately, and we escaped a +further proof of Fatiko affection that was already preparing, as masses +of natives were streaming down the rocks hurrying to be introduced. +Notwithstanding the fatigue of the ceremony, I took a great fancy to +these poor people: they had prepared a quantity of merissa and a sheep +for our lunch, which they begged us to remain and enjoy before we +started; but the pumping action of half a village not yet gratified by a +presentation was too much; and, mounting our oxen, with aching shoulders +we bade adieu to Fatiko. + +Descending the picturesque rocky hill of Fatiko, we entered upon a +totally distinct country. We had now before us an interminable sea of +prairies, covering to the horizon a series of gentle undulations +inclining from east to west. There were no trees except the dolape +palms; these were scattered at long intervals in the bright yellow +surface of high grass. The path was narrow, but good, and after an +hour's march we halted for the night on the banks of a deep and clear +stream, the Un-y-ame;--this stream is perennial, and receiving many +rivulets from Shooa, it forms a considerable torrent during the rainy +season, and joins the Nile in N. lat. 3 degrees 32 minutes at the limit +reached by Signor Miani, 1859, the first traveller who ever attained a +point so far south in Nile explorations from Egypt. There was no wood +for fires, neither dung of animals; thus without fuel we went supperless +to bed. Although the sun was painfully hot during the day, the nights +were so cold (about 55 degrees F) that we could hardly sleep. + +For two days we marched through high dry grass, (about ten feet), when a +clear night allowed an observation, and the meridian altitude of Capella +gave latitude 2 degrees 45 minutes 37 seconds. In this interminable sea +of prairie it was interesting to watch our progress south. On the +following day our guide lost the road; a large herd of elephants had +obscured it by trampling hundreds of paths in all directions. The wind +was strong from the north, and I proposed to clear the country to the +south by firing the prairies. There were numerous deep swamps in the +bottoms between the undulations, and upon arrival at one of these green +dells we fired the grass on the opposite side. In a few minutes it +roared before us, and we enjoyed the grand sight of the boundless +prairies blazing like infernal regions, and rapidly clearing a path +south. Flocks of buzzards and the beautiful varieties of flycatchers +thronged to the dense smoke to prey upon the innumerable insects that +endeavoured to escape from the approaching fire. + +In about an hour we marched over the black and smoking ground, every now +and then meeting dead stumps of palm trees blazing; until we at length +reached another swamp. There the fire had terminated in its course +south, being stopped by the high green reeds, and it was raging to the +east and west. Again the tedious operation had to be performed, and the +grass was fired in many places on the opposite side of the swamp, while +we waited until the cleared way was sufficiently cool to allow the +march. We were perfectly black, as the wind brought showers of ashes +that fell like snow, but turned us into Ethiopians. I had led the way on +foot from the hour we left Fatiko, as, the country being uninhabited for +five days' march between that place and Kamrasi's, the men had more +faith in my steering by the compass than they had in the native guide. I +felt sure that we were being deceived, and that the woman Bacheeta had +directed the guide to take us to Rionga's. Accordingly that night, when +Canopus was in the meridian, I asked our conductor to point by a star +the direction of Karuma Falls. He immediately pointed to Canopus, which +I knew by Speke's map should be the direction of Rionga's islands, and I +charged him with the deceit. He appeared very much astonished, and asked +me "why I wanted a guide if I knew the way?" confessing that Karuma +Falls were "a little to the east of the star." I thanked Speke and Grant +at that moment, and upon many other occasions, for the map they had so +generously given me! It has been my greatest satisfaction to have +completed their great discovery, and to bear testimony to the +correctness of their map and general observations. + +The march was exceedingly fatiguing: there was a swamp at least every +half hour during the day, at each of which we had the greatest +difficulty in driving the oxen, who were above the girths in mud. One +swamp was so deep that we had to carry the luggage piecemeal on an +angarep by about twelve men, and my wife being subjected to the same +operation was too heavy, and the people returned with her as +impracticable. I accordingly volunteered for service, and carried her on +my back; but when in the middle of the swamp, the tenacious bottom gave +way, and I sank, and remained immoveably fixed, while she floundered +froglike in the muddy water. I was extricated by the united efforts of +several men, and she was landed by being dragged through the swamp. We +marched for upwards of ten hours per day, so great were the delays in +crossing the morasses and in clearing off the grass jungle by burning. + +On the fourth day we left the prairies, and entered a noble forest; this +was also so choked with high grass that it was impossible to proceed +without burning the country in advance. There had been no semblance of a +path for some time; and the only signs of game that we had seen were the +tracks of elephants and a large herd of buffaloes, the fire having +scared all wild animals from the neighbourhood. An attack of fever +seized me suddenly, and I was obliged to lie down for four or five hours +under a tree until the fit had passed away, when, weak and good for +nothing, I again mounted my ox and rode on. On the 22d January, from an +elevated position in the forest at sunrise, we saw a cloud of fog +hanging in a distant valley, which betokened the presence of the +Somerset river. The guide assured us that we should reach the river that +day. I extract the note from my journal on that occasion: + +"Marched, 6h. 20m., reaching the Somerset river, or Victoria White Nile. +I never made so tedious a journey, owing to the delays of grass, +streams, and deep swamps, but since we gained the forest these obstacles +were not so numerous. Many tracks of elephants, rhinoceros, and +buffaloes; but we saw nothing. Halted about eighty feet above the river; +altitude above sea level, by observation, 3,864 ft. I went to the river +to see if the other side was inhabited; saw two villages on an island; +the natives came across in a canoe, bringing the BROTHER OF RIONGA with +them; the guide, as I had feared during the journey, has deceived us, +and taken us direct to Rionga's country. On the north side the river all +is uninhabited forest, full of buffalo and elephant pitfalls, into which +three of our cattle have already fallen, including my beautiful riding +ox, which is thus so sprained as to be rendered useless. "The natives at +first supposed we were Mahommed Wat-el-Mek's people, but finding their +mistake they would give no information, merely saying that the lake was +not far from here. They said 'they were friends of Mahommed's people who +attacked Kamrasi, and Rionga being his enemy became their ally.' I must +now be very careful, lest the news should reach Kamrasi that I am in +Rionga's country, which would cut off all chance of travelling in +Unyoro. "The slave woman, Bacheeta, secretly instructed the guide to +lead us to Rionga instead of to Kamrasi, precisely as I had suspected. +The Karuma Falls are a day's march east of this, at which point we must +cross the river. Obtained a clear observation of Capella, meridian +altitude showing latitude 2 degrees 18 minutes N." + +We could get no supplies from Rionga's people, who returned to their +island after their conference with Bacheeta, promising to send us some +plantains and a basket of flour; but upon gaining their secure retreat +they shouted, "that we might go to Kamrasi if we liked, but that we +should receive no assistance from them." Early in the morning we started +for Karuma. This part of the forest was perfectly open, as the grass had +been burnt by the natives about three weeks ago, and the young shoots of +the vines were appearing from the scorched roots; among other plants was +an abundance of the prickly asparagus, of which I collected a basketful. +Nothing could exceed the beauty of the march. Our course through the +noble forest was parallel with the river, that roared beneath us on our +right in a succession of rapids and falls between high cliffs covered +with groves of bananas and varieties of palms, including the graceful +wild date---the certain sign of either marsh or river. The Victoria Nile +or Somerset river was about 150 yards wide; the cliffs on the south side +were higher than those upon the north, being about 150 feet above the +river. These heights were thronged with natives, who had collected from +the numerous villages that ornamented the cliffs situated among groves +of plantains; they were armed with spears and shields; the population +ran parallel to our line of march, shouting and gesticulating as though +daring us to cross the river. + +After a most enjoyable march through the exciting scene of the glorious +river crashing over innumerable falls--and in many places ornamented +with rocky islands, upon which were villages and plantain groves--we at +length approached the Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada above +the ferry. The heights were crowded with natives, and a canoe was sent +across to within parleying distance of our side, as the roar of the +rapids prevented our voices from being heard except at a short distance. +Bacheeta now explained, that SPEKE'S BROTHER had arrived from his +country to pay Kamrasi a visit, and had brought him valuable presents." + +"Why has he brought so many men with him?" inquired the people from the +canoe. + +"There are so many presents for the M'Kamma (King) that he has many men +to carry them," shouted Bacheeta. + +"Let us look at him!" cried the headman in the boat: having prepared for +the introduction by changing my clothes in a grove of plantains for my +dressing room, and altering my costume to a tweed suit, something +similar to that worn by Speke, I climbed up a high and almost +perpendicular rock that formed a natural pinnacle on the face of the +cliff, and, waving my cap to the crowd on the opposite side, I looked +almost as imposing as Nelson in Trafalgar Square. + +I instructed Bacheeta, who climbed up the giddy height after me, to +shout to the people that an English lady, my wife, had also arrived, and +that we wished immediately to be presented to the king and his family, +as we had come to thank him for his kind treatment of Speke and Grant, +who had arrived safe in their own county. Upon this being explained and +repeated several times, the canoe approached the shore. + +I ordered all our people to retire, and to conceal themselves among the +plantains, that the natives might not be startled by so imposing a +force, while Mrs. Baker and I advanced alone to meet Kamrasi's people, +who were men of some importance. Upon landing through the high reeds, +they immediately recognized the similarity of my beard and general +complexion to that of Speke; and their welcome was at once displayed by +the most extravagant dancing and gesticulating with lances and shields, +as though intending to attack, rushing at me with the points of their +lances thrust close to my face, and shouting and singing in great +excitement. + +I made each of them a present of a bead necklace, and explained to them +my wish that there should be no delay in my presentation to Kamrasi, as +Speke had complained that he bad been kept waiting fifteen days before +the king had condescended to see him; that, if this occurred, no +Englishman would ever visit him, as such a reception would be considered +an insult. The headman replied that he felt sure I was not an impostor; +but that very shortly after the departure of Speke and Grant in the +previous year, a number of people had arrived in their name, introducing +themselves as their greatest friends: they had been ferried across the +river, and well received by Kamrasi's orders, and had been presented +with ivory, slaves, and leopard skins, as tokens of friendship; but they +had departed, and suddenly returned with Rionga's people, and had +attacked the village in which they had been so well received; and upon +the country being assembled to resist them, about three hundred of +Kamrasi's men had been killed in the fight. The king had therefore given +orders that, upon pain of death, no stranger should cross the river. He +continued: that when they saw our people marching along the bank of the +river, they imagined them to be the same party that had attacked them +formerly, and they were prepared to resist them, and had sent on a +messenger to Kamrasi, who was three days' march from Karuma, at his +capital M'rooli; until they received a reply, it would be impossible to +allow us to enter the country. He promised to despatch another messenger +immediately to inform the king who we were, but that we must certainly +wait until his return. I explained that we had nothing to eat, and that +it would be very inconvenient to remain in such a spot; that I +considered the suspicion displayed was exceedingly unfair, as they must +see that my wife and I were white people like Speke and Grant, whereas +those who had deceived them were of a totally different race, all being +either black or brown. + +I told him that it did not much matter; that I had very beautiful +presents intended for Kamrasi; but that another great king would be only +too glad to accept them, without throwing obstacles in my way. I should +accordingly return with my presents. + +At the same time I ordered a handsome Persian carpet, about fifteen feet +square, to be displayed as one of the presents intended for the king. +The gorgeous colours, as the carpet was unfolded, produced a general +exclamation before the effect of astonishment wore off, I had a basket +unpacked, and displayed upon a cloth a heap of superb necklaces, that we +had prepared while at Obbo, of the choicest beads, many as large as +marbles, and glittering with every colour of the rainbow. The garden of +jewels of Aladdin's wonderful lamp could not have produced more enticing +fruit. Beads were extremely rare in Kamrasi's land; the few that existed +had arrived from Zanzibar, and all that I exhibited were entirely new +varieties. I explained that I had many other presents, but that it was +not necessary to unpack them, as we were about to return with them to +visit another king, who lived some days' journey distant. "Don't go; +don't go away," said the headman and his companions. "Kamrasi will--." + +Here an unmistakeable pantomimic action explained their meaning better +than words; throwing their heads well back, they sawed across their +throats with their forefingers, making horrible grimaces, indicative of +the cutting of throats. I could not resist laughing at the terror that +my threat of returning with the presents had created, they explained, +that Kamrasi would not only kill them, but would destroy the entire +village of Atada should we return without visiting him, but that he +would perhaps punish them in precisely the same manner should they ferry +us across without special orders. "Please yourselves," I replied; "if my +party is not ferried across by the time the sum reaches that spot on the +heavens (pointing to the position it would occupy at about 3 P.M.), I +shall return." In a state of great excitement they promised to hold a +conference on the other side, and to see what arrangements could be +made. They returned to Atada, leaving the whole party, including +Ibrahim, exceedingly disconcerted--having nothing to eat, an impassable +river before them, and five days' march of uninhabited wilderness in +their rear. + +Karuma Falls were about three hundred yards to our left as we faced +Atada; they were very insignificant, not exceeding five feet in height, +but curiously regular, as a ridge of rock over which they fell extended +like a wall across the river. The falls were exactly at the bend of the +river, which, from that point, turned suddenly to the west. The whole +day passed in shouting and gesticulating our peaceful intentions to the +crowd assembled on the heights on the opposite side of the river, but +the boat did not return until long after the time appointed; even then +the natives would only approach sufficiently near to be heard, but +nothing would induce them to land. They explained, that there was a +division of opinion among the people on the other side; some were in +favour of receiving us, but the greater number were of opinion that we +intended hostilities; therefore we must wait until orders could be sent +from the king. + +To assure the people of our peaceful intentions, I begged them to take +Mrs. Baker and myself ALONE, and to leave the armed party on this side +of the river until a reply should be received from Kamrasi. At this +suggestion the boat immediately returned to the other side. + +The day passed away, and as the sun set we perceived the canoe again +paddling across the river; this time it approached direct, and the same +people landed that had received the necklaces in the morning. They said +that they had held a conference with the headman, and that they had +agreed to receive my wife and myself, but no other person. I replied, +that my servants must accompany us, as we were quite as great personages +as Kamrasi, and could not possibly travel without attendants. To this +they demurred; therefore I dropped the subject, and proposed to load the +canoe with all the presents intended for Kamrasi. There was no objection +to this, and I ordered Richarn, Saat, and Ibrahim to get into the canoe +to stow away the luggage as it should be handed to them, but on no +account to leave the boat. I had already prepared everything in +readiness; and a bundle of rifles tied up in a large blanket, and 500 +rounds of ball cartridge, were unconsciously received on board as +PRESENTS. I had instructed Ibrahim to accompany us as my servant, as he +was better than most of the men in the event of a row; and I had given +orders, that in case of a preconcerted signal being given, the whole +force should swim the river, supporting themselves and guns upon bundles +of papyrus rush. + +The men thought us perfectly mad, and declared that we should be +murdered immediately when on the other side; however, they prepared for +crossing the river in case of treachery. + +At the last moment, when the boat was about to leave the shore, two of +the best men jumped in with their guns; however, the natives positively +refused to start; therefore, to avoid suspicion, I ordered them to +retire, but I left word that on the morrow I would send the canoe across +with supplies, and that one or two men should endeavour to accompany the +boat to our side on every trip. + +It was quite dark when we started. The canoe was formed of a large +hollow tree, capable of holding twenty people, and the natives paddled +us across the rapid current just below the falls. A large fire was +blazing upon the opposite shore, on a level with the river, to guide us +to the landing place. Gliding through a narrow passage in the reeds, we +touched the shore and landed upon a slippery rock, close to the fire, +amidst a crowd of people, who immediately struck up a deafening welcome +with horns and flageolets, and marched us up the steep face of the rocky +cliff through a dark grove of bananas. Torches led the way, followed by +a long file of spearmen; then came the noisy band and ourselves--I +towing my wife up the precipitous path, while my few attendants followed +behind with a number of natives who had volunteered to carry the +luggage. + +On arrival at the top of the cliff, we were about 180 feet above the +river, and after a walk of about a quarter of a mile, we were +triumphantly led into the heart of the village, and halted in a small +courtyard in front of the headman's residence. + +Keedja waited to receive us by a blazing fire. Not having had anything +to eat, we were uncommonly hungry, and to our great delight a basketful +of ripe plantains was presented to us; these were the first that I had +seen for many years. A gourd bottle of plantain wine was offered, and +immediately emptied; it resembled extremely poor cider. We were now +surrounded by a mass of natives, no longer the naked savages to whom we +had been accustomed, but well-dressed men, wearing robes of bark cloth, +arranged in various fashions, generally like the Arab "tope," or the +Roman toga. Several of the headmen now explained to us the atrocious +treachery of Debono's men, who had been welcomed as friends of Speke and +Grant, but who had repaid the hospitality by plundering and massacreing +their hosts. I assured them that no one would be more wroth than Speke +when I should make him aware of the manner in which his name had been +used, and that I should make a point of reporting the circumstance to +the British Government. At the same time I advised them not to trust any +but white people, should others arrive in my name, or in those of Speke +and Grant. I upheld their character as that of Englishmen, and I begged +them to state "if ever they had deceived them?" They replied, that +"there could not be better men." I answered, "You MUST trust me, as I +trust entirely in you, and have placed myself in your hands; but if you +have ever had cause to mistrust a white man, kill me at once!--either +kill me, or trust in me; but let there be no suspicions." + +They seemed much pleased with the conversation, and a man stepped +forward and showed me a small string of blue beads that Speke had given +him for ferrying him across the river. This little souvenir of my old +friend was most interesting; after a year's wandering and many +difficulties, this was the first time that I had actually come upon his +track. Many people told me that they had known Speke and Grant; the +former bore the name of "Mollegge" (the bearded one), while Grant had +been named "Masanga" (the elephant's tusk), owing to his height. The +latter had been wounded at Lucknow during the Indian mutiny, and I spoke +to the people of the loss of his finger; this crowned my success, as +they knew without doubt that I had seen him. It was late, therefore I +begged the crowd to depart, but to send a messenger the first thing in +the morning to inform Kamrasi who we were, and to beg him to permit us +to visit him without loss of time. + +A bundle of straw was laid on the ground for Mrs. Baker and myself, and, +in lieu of other beds, the ground was our resting place. It was bitterly +cold that night, as the guns were packed up in the large blanket, and, +not wishing to expose them, we were contented with a Scotch plaid each. +Ibrahim, Saat, and Richarn watched by turns. On the following morning an +immense crowd of native thronged to see us. There was a very beautiful +tree about a hundred yards from the village, capable of shading upwards +of a thousand men, and I proposed that we should sit beneath this +protection and hold a conference. The headman of the village gave us a +large hut with a grand doorway of about seven feet high, of which my +wife took possession, while I joined the crowd at the tree. There were +about six hundred men seated respectfully on the ground around me, while +I sat with my back to the huge knotty trunk, with Ibrahim and Richarn at +a few paces distant. + +The subject of conversation was merely a repetition that of the +preceding night, with the simple addition some questions respecting the +lake. Not a man would give the slightest information; the only reply, +upon my forcing the question, was the pantomime already described, by +passing the forefinger across the throat, and exclaiming "Kamrasi!" The +entire population was tongue-locked. + +I tried the children; to no purpose, they were all dumb. White-headed +old men I questioned as to the distance of the lake from this point: +they replied, "We are children, ask the old people who know the +country." Never was freemasonry more secret than the land of Unyoro. It +was useless to persevere. I therefore changed the subject by saying that +our people were starving on the other side, and that provisions must be +sent immediately. In all savage countries the most trifling demand +requires much talking. They said that provisions were scarce, and that +until Kamrasi should give the order, they could give no supplies. +Understanding most thoroughly the natural instincts of the natives, I +told them that I must send the canoe across to fetch three oxen that I +wished to slaughter. The bait took at once, and several men ran for the +canoe, and we sent one of our black women across with a message to the +people that three men, with their guns and ammunition, were to accompany +the canoe and guide three oxen across by swimming them with ropes tied +to their horns. These were the riding oxen of some of the men that it +was necessary to slaughter, to exchange the flesh for flour and other +supplies. + +Hardly had the few boatmen departed, than some one shouted suddenly, and +the entire crowd sprang to their feet and rushed towards the hut where I +had left Mrs. Baker. For the moment I thought that the hut was on fire, +and I joined the crowd and arrived at the doorway, where I found a +tremendous press to see some extraordinary sight. Everyone was squeezing +for the best place; and, driving them on one side, I found the wonder +that had excited their curiosity. The hut being very dark, my wife had +employed her solitude during my conference with the natives in dressing +her hair at the doorway, which, being very long and blonde, was suddenly +noticed by some natives--a shout was given, the rush described had taken +place, and the hut was literally mobbed by the crowd of savages eager to +see the extraordinary novelty. The Gorilla would not make a greater stir +in London streets than we appeared to create at Atada. + +The oxen shortly arrived; one was immediately killed, and the flesh +divided into numerous small portions arranged upon the hide. + +Blonde hair and white people immediately lost their attractions, and the +crowd turned their attention to beef--we gave them to understand that +we required flour, beans, and sweet potatoes in exchange. + +The market soon went briskly, and whole rows of girls and women arrived, +bringing baskets filled with the desired provisions. The women were +neatly dressed in short petticoats with a double skirt-many exposed the +bosom, while others wore a piece of bark cloth arranged as a plaid +across the chest and shoulders. This cloth is the produce of a species +of fig tree, the bark of which is stripped off in large pieces and then +soaked in water and beaten with a mallet: in appearance it much +resembles corduroy, and is the colour of tanned leather; the finer +qualities are peculiarly soft to the touch, as though of woven cotton. +Every garden is full of this species of tree, as their cultivation is +necessary for the supply of clothing; when a man takes a wife he plants +a certain number of trees, that are to be the tailors of the expected +family. + +The market being closed, the canoe was laden with provisions, and sent +across to our hungry people on the other side the river. + +The difference between the Unyoro people and the tribes we had hitherto +seen was most striking. On the north side of the river the natives were +either stark naked, or wore a mere apology for clothing in the shape of +a skin slung across their shoulders: the river appeared to be the limit +of utter savagedom, and the people of Unyoro considered the indecency of +nakedness precisely in the same light as among Europeans. + +The northern district of Unyoro at Karuma is called Chopi, the language +being the same as the Madi, and different to the southern and central +portions of the kingdom. The people are distinct in their type, but they +have the woolly hair of negroes, like all other tribes of the White +Nile. + +By astronomical observation I determined the latitude of Atada at Karuma +Falls, 2 degrees 15 minutes; and by Casella's thermometer, the altitude +of the river level above the sea 3,996 feet. + +After the disgusting naked tribes that we had been travelling amongst +for more than twelve months, it was a delightful change to find +ourselves in comparative civilization: this was evinced not only in the +decency of clothing, but also in the manufactures of the country. The +blacksmiths were exceedingly clever, and used iron hammers instead of +stone; they drew fine wire from the thick copper and brass wire that +they received from Zanzibar; their bellows were the same as those used +by the more savage tribes--but the greatest proof of their superior +civilization was exhibited in their pottery. + +Nearly all savages have some idea of earthenware; but the scale of +advancement of a country between savagedom and civilization may +generally be determined by the example of its pottery. The Chinese, who +were as civilized as they are at the present day at a period when the +English were barbarians, were ever celebrated for the manufacture of +porcelain, and the difference between savages and civilized countries is +always thus exemplified; the savage makes earthenware, but the civilized +make porcelain--thus the gradations from the rudest earthenware will +mark the improvement in the scale of civilization. The prime utensil of +the African savage is the gourd; the shell of which is the bowl +presented to him by nature as the first idea from which he is to model. +Nature, adapting herself to the requirements of animals and man, appears +in these savage countries to yield abundantly much that savage man can +want. Gourds with exceedingly strong shells not only grow wild, which if +divided in halves afford bowls, but great and quaint varieties form +natural bottles of all sizes, from the tiny phial to the demijohn +containing five gallons. The most savage tribes content themselves with +the productions of nature, confining their manufacture to a coarse and +half-baked jar for carrying water; but the semi-savage, like those of +Unyoro, affords an example of the first step towards manufacturing art, +by the fact of COPYING FROM NATURE: the utter savage makes use of +nature--the gourd is his utensil; and the more advanced natives of +Unyoro adopt it as the model for their pottery. They make a fine quality +of jet black earthenware, producing excellent tobacco-pipes most finely +worked in imitation of the small egg-shaped gourd; of the same +earthenware they make extremely pretty bowls, and also bottles copied +from the varieties of the bottle gourds: thus, in this humble art, we +see the first effort of the human mind in manufactures, in taking nature +for a model; precisely as the beautiful Corinthian capital originated in +a design from a basket of flowers. + +A few extracts from my journal will describe the delay at Atada:-- + +"JAN. 26th, 1864.--The huts are very large, about 20 feet in diameter, +made entirely of reeds and straw, and very lofty, looking in the +interior like huge inverted baskets, beehive shaped, very different to +the dog-kennels of the more northern tribes. We received a message today +that we were not to expect Kamrasi, as 'great men were never in a hurry +to pay visits.' None of the principal chiefs have yet appeared. Kidgwiga +is expected today; but people are flocking in from the country to see +the white lady. It is very trying to the patience to wait here until it +pleases these almighty niggers to permit our people to cross the river." + +"JAN. 27th.--Time passing fruitlessly while every day is valuable. The +rains will, I fear, commence before my work is completed; and the Asua +river, if flooded, will cut off my return to Gondokoro. In this district +there is a large population and extensive cultivation. There are many +trees resembling the Vacoua of Mauritius, but the leaves are of a +different texture, producing a species of flax. Every day there is a +report that the headman, sent by Kamrasi, is on the road; but I see no +signs of him." + +"JAN. 28th.--Reports brought that Kamrasi has sent his headman with a +large force, including some of Speke's deserters. They are to inspect +me, and report whether I am really a white man and an Englishman. If so, +I believe we are to proceed; if not, I suppose we are to be +exterminated. Lest there should be any mistake I have taken all +necessary precautions; but, having only eight men on this side the +river, I shall be certain to lose my baggage in the event of a +disturbance, as no one could transport it to the canoe." + +"JAN. 29th.--Plantains, sweet potatoes, and eggs supplied in great +quantities. The natives are much amused at our trying the eggs in water +before purchase. Plantains, three for one small bead. The headman is +expected today. A polite message arrived last night from Kamrasi +inviting us to his capital, and apologizing for being unable to come in +person. This morning the force, sent by Kamrasi, is reported to be +within an hour's march of Atada. "In midday the headman arrived with a +great number of men, accompanied by three of Speke's deserters, one of +whom has been created a chief by Kamrasi, and presented with two wives. + +"I received them standing; and after thorough inspection I was +pronounced to be 'Speke's own brother,' and all were satisfied. However, +the business was not yet over: plenty of talk, and another delay of four +days, was declared necessary until the king should reply to the +satisfactory message about to be sent. Losing all patience, I stormed, +declaring Kamrasi to be mere dust; while a white man was a king in +comparison. I ordered all my luggage to be conveyed immediately to the +canoe, and declared that I would return immediately to my own country; +that I did not wish to see any one so utterly devoid of manners as +Kamrasi, and that no other white man would ever visit his kingdom. + +"The effect was magical! I rose hastily to depart. The chiefs implored, +declaring that Kamrasi would kill them all if I retreated: to prevent +which misfortune they secretly instructed the canoe to be removed. I was +in a great rage; and about 400 natives, who were present, scattered in +all quarters, thinking that there would be a serious quarrel. I told the +chiefs that nothing should stop me, and that I would seize the canoe by +force unless my whole party should be brought over from the opposite +side that instant. This was agreed upon. One of Ibrahim's men exchanged +and drank blood from the arm of Speke's deserter, who was Kamrasi's +representative; and peace thus firmly established, several canoes were +at once employed, and sixty of our men were brought across the river +before sunset. The natives had nevertheless taken the precaution to send +all their women away from the village." + +"JAN. 30th.--This morning all remaining men and baggage were brought +across the river, and supplies were brought in large quantities for +sale. We are to march tomorrow direct to Kamrasi's capital; they say he +will give me a guide to the lake. + +"The natives of this country are particularly neat in all they do; they +never bring anything to sell unless carefully packed in the neatest +parcels, generally formed of the bark of the plantain, and sometimes of +the inner portions of reeds stripped into snow-white stalks, which are +bound round the parcels with the utmost care. Should the plantain cider, +'maroua,' be brought in a jar, the mouth is neatly covered with a +fringe-like mat of these clean white rushes split into shreds. Not even +tobacco is brought for sale unless most carefully packed. During a +journey, a pretty, bottle-shaped, long-necked gourd is carried with a +store of plantain cider: the mouth of the bottle is stopped with a +bundle of the white rush shreds, through which a reed is inserted that +reaches to the bottom: thus the drink can be sucked up during the march +without the necessity of halting; nor is it possible to spill it by the +movement of walking. + +"The natives prepare the skins of goats very beautifully, making them as +soft as chamois leather; these they cut into squares, and sew together +as neatly as would be effected by a European tailor, converting them +into mantles which are prized far more highly than bark cloth, on +account of their durability: they manufacture their own needles, not by +boring the eye, but by sharpening the end into a fine point and turning +it over, the extremity being hammered into a small cut in the body of +the needle to prevent it from catching. + +"Clothes of all kinds are in great demand here, and would be accepted to +any amount in exchange for ivory. Beads are extremely valuable, and +would purchase ivory in large quantities, but the country would, in a +few years, become overstocked. Clothes being perishable articles would +always be in demand to supply those worn out; but beads, being +imperishable, very soon glut the market. Here is, as I had always +anticipated, an opportunity for commencing legitimate trade." + +"JAN. 31st.--Throngs of natives arrived to carry our luggage GRATIS by +the king's orders. Started at 7 A.M. and marched ten miles and a half +parallel with the Nile, south; the country thickly populated, and much +cultivated with sesame, sweet potatoes, beans, tullaboon, dhurra, Indian +corn, and plantains. + +"The native porters relieved each other at every village, fresh men +being always in readiness on the road. The river is here on a level with +the country, having no high banks; thus there is a great fall from +Karuma towards the west. Halted in a grove of plantains near a village. +The plantains of this country are much higher than those of Ceylon, and +the stems are black, rising to 25 or 30 feet. The chief of the district +came to meet us, and insisted upon our remaining at his village today +and tomorrow to 'eat and drink,' or Kamrasi would kill him; thus we are +delayed when time is precious. The chief's name is 'Matta-Goomi.' There +is now no secret about the lake. Both he and all the natives say that +the Luta N'zige lake is larger than the Victoria N'yanza, and that both +lakes are fed by rivers from the great mountain Bartooma. Is that +mountain the M'fumbiro of Speke? the difference of name being local. +According to the position of the mountain pointed out by the chief, it +bears from this spot S. 45 degrees W. Latitude of this place by meridian +altitude of Capella, 2 degrees 5 minutes 32 seconds. + +"F. (my wife) taken seriously ill with bilious fever." + +"FEB. 1st.--F. dreadfully ill; all the natives have turned out of their +villages, leaving their huts and gardens at our disposal. This is the +custom of the country should the king give orders that a visitor is to +be conducted through his dominions. + +"The natives of Unyoro have a very superior implement to the molote used +among the northern tribes; it is an extremely powerful hoe, fitted upon +a handle, similar to those used on the sugar estates in the West Indies, +but the blade is heart-shaped: with these they cultivate the ground very +deep for their beds of sweet potatoes. The temperature during the day +ranges from 80 degrees to 84 degrees, and at night it is cold, 56 +degrees to 58 degrees Fahr. It is very unhealthy, owing to the proximity +of the river." + +"FEB. 2d.--Marched five miles. F. carried in a litter, very ill. I fell +ill likewise. Halted." + +"FEB. 3d.--F. very ill. Carried her four miles and halted." + +"FEB. 4th.--F. most seriously ill. Started at 7:30 A.M., she being +carried in a litter; but I also fell ill upon the road, and having been +held on my ox by two men for some time, I at length fell in their arms, +and was laid under a tree for about five hours; getting better, I rode +for two hours, course south. Mountains in view to south and southeast, +about ten miles distant. The country, forest interspersed with villages: +the Somerset generally parallel to the route. There are no tamarinds in +this neighbourhood, nor any other acid fruit; thus one is sorely pressed +in the hours of fever. One of the black women servants, Fadeela, is +dying of fever." + +"FEB. 5th.--F. (Mrs. Baker) so ill, that even the litter is too much +for her. Heaven help us in this country! The altitude of the river level +above the sea at this point is 4,056 feet." + +"Feb. 6th.--F. slightly better. Started at 7 A.M. The country the same +as usual. Halted at a village after a short march of three miles and a +half. Here we are detained for a day while a message is sent to Kamrasi. +Tomorrow, I believe, we are to arrive at the capital of the tyrant. He +sent me a message today, that the houses he had prepared for me had been +destroyed by fire, and to beg me to wait until he should have completed +others. The truth is, he is afraid of our large party, and he delays us +in every manner possible, in order to receive daily reports of our +behaviour on the road. Latitude by observation at this point, 1 degree +50 minutes 47 seconds N." + +"FEB. 7th.--Detained here for a day. I never saw natives so filthy in +their dwellings as the people of Unyoro. Goats and fowls share the but +with the owner, which, being littered down with straw, is a mere +cattle-shed, redolent of man and beast. The natives sleep upon a mass of +straw, upon a raised platform, this at night being covered with a +dressed skin. Yesterday the natives brought coffee in small quantities +to sell. They have no idea of using it as a drink, but simply chew it +raw as a stimulant. It is a small and finely-shaped grain, with a good +flavour. It is brought from the country of Utumbi, about a degree south +of this spot." + +"FEB. 8th.--Marched eight miles due south. The river makes a long bend +to E.N.E., and this morning's march formed the chord of the arc. Halted; +again delayed for the day, as we are not far from the capital, and a +messenger must be sent to the king for instructions before we proceed. I +never saw such abject cowardice as the redoubted Kamrasi exhibits. +Debono's vakeel having made a razzia upon his frontier has so cowed him, +that he has now left his residence, and retreated to the other side of a +river, from which point he sends false messages to delay our advance as +much as possible. There is a total absence of dignity in his behaviour; +no great man is sent to parley, but the king receives contradictory +reports from the many-tongued natives that have utterly perplexed him. +He is told by some that we are the same people that came with Ras-Galla +(Debono's captain), and he has neither the courage to repel or to +receive us. Our force of 112 armed men could eat the country in the +event of a fight, provided that a large supply of ammunition were at +hand. The present store is sixty rounds for each man, which would not be +sufficient." + +"FEB. 9th.--After endless discussions and repeated messages exchanged +with the king, he at length sent word that I was to come ALONE. To this +I objected; and, upon my starting with my men, the guide refused to +proceed. I at once turned back, and told the chief (our guide) that I no +longer wished to see Kamrasi, who must be a mere fool, and I should +return to my country. This created a great stir, and messengers were at +once despatched to the king, who returned an answer that I might bring +all my men, but that only five of the Turks could be allowed with +Ibrahim. The woman Bacheeta had told the natives that we were separate +parties. + +"A severe attack of fever prevented me from starting. This terrible +complaint worries me sadly, as I have no quinine." + +"FEB. 10th.--The woman Fadeela died of fever. I am rather better, and +the chief is already here to escort us to Kamrasi. After a quick march +of three hours through immense woods, we reached the capital--a large +village of grass huts, situated on a barren slope. We were ferried +across a river in large canoes, capable of carrying fifty men, but +formed of a single tree upwards of four feet wide. Kamrasi was reported +to be in his residence on the opposite side; but, upon our arrival at +the south bank, we found ourselves thoroughly deceived. We were upon a +miserable flat, level with the river, and in the wet season forming a +marsh at the junction with the Kafoor river with the Somerset. The +latter river bounded the flat on the east, very wide and sluggish, and +much overgrown with papyrus and lotus. The river we had just crossed was +the Kafoor; it was perfectly dead water, and about eighty yards wide, +including the beds of papyrus on either side. We were shown some filthy +huts that were to form our camp. The spot was swarming with mosquitoes, +and we had nothing to eat except a few fowls that I had brought with me. +Kamrasi was on the OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER: they had cunningly separated +us from him, and had returned with the canoes. Thus we were prisoners +upon the swamp. This was our welcome from the King of Unyoro! I now +heard that Speke and Grant had been lodged in this same spot." + +"FEB. 10th.--Ibrahim was extremely nervous, as were also my men; they +declared that treachery was intended, as the boats had been withdrawn, +and they proposed that we should swim the river and march back to our +main party, who had been left three hours in the rear. I was ill with +fever, also my wife, and the unwholesome air of the marsh aggravated the +disease. Our luggage had been left at our last station, as this was a +condition stipulated by Kamrasi: thus we had to sleep upon the damp +ground of the marsh in the filthy hut, as the heavy dew at night +necessitated shelter. With great difficulty I accompanied Ibrahim and a +few men to the bank of the river where we had landed yesterday, and, +climbing upon a white ant hill to obtain a view over the high reeds, I +scanned the village with a telescope. The scene was rather exciting; +crowds of people were rushing about in all directions, and gathering +from all quarters towards the river: the slope from the river to the +town M'rooli was black with natives, and I saw about a dozen large +canoes preparing to transport them to our side. I returned from my +elevated observatory to Ibrahim, who, on the low ground only a few yards +distant, could not see the opposite side of the river owing to the high +grass and reeds. Without saying more, I merely begged him to mount upon +the ant hill and look towards M'rooli. Hardly had he cast a glance at +the scene described, than he jumped down from his stand, and cried, +'They are going to attack us!' 'Let us retreat to the camp and prepare +for a fight!' 'Let us fire at them from here as they cross in the +canoes,' cried others; 'the buckshot will clear them off when packed in +the boats.' This my panic-stricken followers would have done, had I not +been present. + +"'Fools!' I said, 'do you not see that the natives have no SHIELDS with +them, but merely lances?--would they commence an attack without their +shields? Kamrasi is coming in state to visit us.' This idea was by no +means accepted by my people, and we reached our little camp, and for the +sake of precaution we stationed the men in positions behind a hedge of +thorns. Ibrahim had managed to bring twelve picked men instead of five +as stipulated; thus we were a party of twenty-four. I was of very little +use, as the fever was so strong upon me that I lay helpless on the +ground." + +In a short time the canoes arrived, and for about an hour they were +employed in crossing and recrossing, and landing great numbers of men, +until they at length advanced and took possession of some huts about 200 +yards from our camp. They now hallooed out that Kamrasi had arrived! and +seeing some oxen with the party, I felt sure they had no evil +intentions. I ordered my men to carry me in their arms to the king, and +to accompany me with the presents, as I was determined to have a +personal interview, although only fit for a hospital. + +Upon my approach, the crowd gave way, and I was shortly laid on a mat at +the king's feet. He was a fine-looking man, but with a peculiar +expression of countenance, owing to his extremely prominent eyes; he was +about six feet high, beautifully clean, and was dressed in a long robe +of bark-cloth most gracefully folded. The nails of his hands and feet +were carefully attended, and his complexion was about as dark a brown as +that of an Abyssinian. He sat upon a copper stool placed upon a carpet +of leopard skins, and he was surrounded by about ten of his principal +chiefs. + +Our interpreter, Bacheeta, now informed him who I was, and what were my +intentions. He said that he was sorry I had been so long on the road, +but that he had been obliged to be cautious, having been deceived by +Debono's people. I replied, that I was an Englishman, a friend of Speke +and Grant--that they had described the reception they had met with from +him, and that I had come to thank him, and to offer him a few presents +in return for his kindness, and to request him to give me a guide to the +Lake Luta N'zige. He laughed at the name and repeated it several times +with his chiefs,--he then said, it was not LUTA, but M-WOOTAN +N'zige--but that it was SIX MONTHS' journey from M'rooli, and that in my +weak condition I could not possibly reach it; that I should die upon the +road, and that the king of my country would perhaps imagine that I had +been murdered, and might invade his territory. I replied, that I was +weak with the toil of years in the hot countries of Africa, but that I +was in search of the great lake, and should not return until I had +succeeded; that I had no king, but a powerful Queen who watched over all +her subjects, and that no Englishman could be murdered with impunity; +therefore he should send me to the lake without delay, and there would +be the lesser chance of my dying in his country. + +I explained that the river Nile flowed for a distance of two years' +journey through wonderful countries, and reached the sea, from which +many valuable articles would be sent to him in exchange for ivory, could +I only discover the great lake. As a proof of this, I had brought him a +few curiosities that I trusted he would accept, and I regretted that the +impossibility of procuring porters had necessitated the abandonment of +others that had been intended for him. + +I ordered the men to unpack the Persian carpet, which was spread upon +the ground before him. I then gave him an Abbia (large white Cashmere +mantle), a red silk netted sash, a pair of scarlet Turkish shoes, +several pairs of socks, a double-barrelled gun and ammunition, and a +great heap of first-class beads made up into gorgeous necklaces and +girdles. He took very little notice of the presents, but requested that +the gun might be fired off. This was done, to the utter confusion of the +crowd, who rushed away in such haste, that they tumbled over each other +like so many rabbits; this delighted the king, who, although himself +startled, now roared with laughter. He told me that I must be hungry and +thirsty, therefore he hoped I would accept something to eat and drink: +accordingly he presented me with seventeen cows, twenty pots of sour +plantain cider and many loads of unripe plantains. I inquired whether +Speke had left a medicine chest with him. He replied that it was a very +feverish country, and that he and his people had used all the medicine. +Thus my last hope of quinine was cut off. I had always trusted to obtain +a supply from the king, as Speke had told me that he had left a bottle +with him. It was quite impossible to obtain any information from him, +and I was carried back to my hut, where I found Mrs. Baker lying down +with fever, and neither could render assistance to the other. + +On the following morning the king again appeared. I was better, and I +had a long interview. He did not appear to heed my questions, but he at +once requested that I would ally myself with him, and attack his enemy, +Rionga. I told him that I could not embroil myself in such quarrels, but +that I had only one object, which was the lake. I requested that he +would give Ibrahim a large quantity of ivory, and that on his return +from Gondokoro he would bring him most valuable articles in exchange. He +said that he was not sure whether "my belly was black or white,"--by +this he intended to express "evil or good intentions;" but that if it +were white I should of course have no objection to exchange blood with +him, as a proof of friendship and sincerity. This was rather too strong +a dose! I replied that it would be impossible, as in my country the +shedding of blood was considered a proof of hostility; therefore he must +accept Ibrahim as my substitute. Accordingly the arms were bared and +pricked; as the blood flowed, it was licked by either party; and an +alliance was concluded. Ibrahim agreed to act with him against all his +enemies. It was arranged that Ibrahim now belonged to Kamrasi, and that +henceforth our parties should be entirely separate. + +It rained in torrents, and our hut became so damp from the absorption of +the marsh soil, that my feet sank in the muddy floor. I had fever daily +at about 3 P.M. and lay perfectly helpless for five or six hours, until +the attack passed off; this reduced me to extreme weakness. My wife +suffered quite as acutely. It was a position of abject misery, which +will be better explained by a few rough extracts from my journal:-- + +"FEB. 16th.--ALL MY PORTERS HAVE DESERTED, having heard that the lake is +so far distant; I have not one man left to carry my luggage. Should we +not be able to cross the Asua river before the flood, we shall be nailed +for another year to this abominable country, ill with fever, and without +medicine, clothes, or supplies. + +"FEB. 17th.--Fever last night; rain, as usual, with mud accompaniment. +One of Kamrasi's headmen, whose tongue I have loosened by presents, +tells me that he has been to the lake in ten days to purchase salt, and +that a man loaded with salt can return in fifteen days. God knows the +truth! and I am pressed for time, while Kamrasi delays me in the most +annoying manner. + +"Kamrasi came today; as usual, he wanted all that I had, and insisted +upon a present of my sword, watch, and compass, all of which I +positively refused. I told him that he had deceived me by saying that +the lake was so distant as six months' journey, as I knew that it was +only ten days. He rudely answered, 'Go, if you like; but don't blame me +if you can't get back: it is twenty days' march; you may believe it or +not, as you choose.' To my question as to the means of procuring +porters, he gave no reply, except by asking for my sword, and for my +beautiful little Fletcher rifle. + +"I retired to my hut in disgust. This afternoon a messenger arrived from +the king with twenty-four small pieces of straw, cut into lengths of +about four inches. These he laid carefully in a row, and explained that +Speke had given that number of presents, whereas I had only given ten, +the latter figure being carefully exemplified by ten pieces of straw; he +wished to know 'why I did not give him the same number as he had +received from Speke?' This miserable, grasping, lying coward is +nevertheless a king, and the success of my expedition depends upon him." + +"FEB. 20th.--Cloudy, as usual; neither sun, moon, nor stars will show +themselves. Fortunately, milk can be procured here. I live upon +buttermilk. Kamrasi came, and gave twenty elephants' tusks as a present +to Ibrahim. There is a report that Debono's people, under the command of +Ras-Galla, are once more at Rionga's; this has frightened him awfully." + +Feb. 21st.-This morning Kamrasi was civil enough to allow us to quit the +marsh, the mosquito-nest and fever-bed where we had been in durance, +and we crossed to the other side of the Kafoor river, and quartered in +M'rooli. I went to see him, and, after a long consultation, he promised +to send me to the lake tomorrow. I immediately took off my sword and +belt, and presented them to him, explaining that, as I was now convinced +of his friendship, I had a pleasure in offering my sword as a proof of +my amicable feeling, as I thus placed the weapon of self-defence in his +hand, and I should trust to his protection. As a proof of the temper of +the blade, I offered to cut through the strongest shield he could +produce. This delighted him amazingly. I now trust to be able to reach +the junction of the Somerset with the M-wootan N'zige at Magungo, and +from thence to overtake Ibrahim at Shooa, and to hurry on to Gondokoro, +where a boat will be waiting for me from Khartoum. + +"Ibrahim and his men marched this morning, on their return to Karuma, +leaving me here with my little party of thirteen men. + +"Should I succeed in discovering the lake I shall thank God most +sincerely. The toil, anxiety, the biting annoyances I have daily been +obliged to put up with in my association with the Turks, added to our +now constant ill-health, are enough to break down the constitution of an +elephant. Every day I must give!--to the Turks, give!--to the natives, +give! If I lend anything to the Turks, it is an insult should I ask for +its return. One hasty word might have upset my boat; and now, for twelve +months, I have had to talk, to explain, to manage, and to lead the +brutes in this direction, like a coachman driving jibbing horses. Hosts +of presents to Ibrahim, combined with a vivid description of the +advantages that he would secure by opening a trade with Kamrasi, at +length led him to this country, which I could not have reached without +his aid, as it would have been impossible for me to have procured +porters without cattle. The porters I have always received from him as +far as Karuma for a payment of six copper rings per head for every +journey. I have now arranged that he shall leave for me thirty head of +cattle at Shooa; thus, should he have started for Gondokoro before my +arrival at Shooa, I shall be able to procure porters, and arrive in time +for the expected boat. + +"Up to this day astronomical observations have been impossible, a thick +coat of slate colour obscuring the heavens. Tonight I obtained a good +observation of Canopus, giving latitude 1 degree 38 minutes N. By +Casella's thermometer I made the altitude of the Somerset at M'rooli +4,061 feet above the sea, showing a fall of 65 feet between this point +and below the falls at Karuma in a distance of 37 miles of latitude. + +"Just as Ibrahim was leaving this morning I was obliged to secure the +slave Bacheeta as interpreter, at the price of three double-barrelled +guns to purchase her freedom. I explained to her that she was now free, +and that I wished her to act as interpreter during my stay in Unyoro; +and that I would then leave her in her own country, Chopi, on my return +from the lake. Far from being pleased at the change, she regretted the +loss of the Turks, and became excessively sulky, although my wife decked +her out with beads, and gave her a new petticoat to put her in a good +humour." + +"Feb. 22d.--Kamrasi promised to send me porters, and that we should +start for the lake today, but there is no sign of preparation; thus am I +delayed when every day is so precious. Added to this trouble, the woman +that I have as an interpreter wall not speak, being the most sulky +individual I ever encountered. In the evening Kamrasi sent to say he +would give a guide and porters tomorrow morning. It is impossible to +depend upon him." + +After some delay we were at length honoured by a visit from Kamrasi, +accompanied by a number of his people, and he promised that we should +start on the following day. He pointed out a chief and a guide who were +to have us in their charge, and who were to see that we obtained all +that we should require. He concluded, as usual, by asking for my watch +and for a number of beads; the latter I gave him, together with a +quantity of ammunition for his guns. He showed me a beautiful +double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, that Speke had given him. I wished +to secure this, to give to Speke on my return to England, as he had told +me, when at Gondokoro, how he had been obliged to part with that and +many other articles sorely against his will. I therefore offered to give +him three common double-barrelled guns in exchange for the rifle. This +he declined, as he was quite aware of the difference in quality. He then +produced a large silver chronometer that he had received from Speke. "It +was DEAD," he said, "and he wished me to repair it." This I declared to +be impossible. He then confessed to having explained its construction, +and the cause of the "ticking," to his people, by the aid of a needle, +and that it had never ticked since that occasion. I regretted to see +such "pearls cast before swine," as the rifle and chronometer in the +hands of Kamrasi. Thus he had plundered Speke and Grant of all they +possessed before he would allow them to proceed. + +It is the rapacity of the chiefs of the various tribes that renders +African exploration so difficult. Each tribe wishes' to monopolize your +entire stock of valuables, without which the traveller would be utterly +helpless. The difficulty of procuring porters limits the amount of +baggage thus a given supply must carry you through a certain period of +time; if your supply should fail, the expedition terminates with your +power of giving. It is thus extremely difficult to arrange the +expenditure so as to satisfy all parties, and still to retain a +sufficient balance. Being utterly cut off from all communication with +the world, there is no possibility of receiving assistance. The +traveller depends entirely upon himself, under Providence, and must. +adapt himself and his means to circumstances. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +THE START FOR THE LAKE: + +The day of starting at length arrived; the chief and guide appeared, and +we were led to the Kafoor river, where canoes were in readiness to +transport us to the south side. This was to our old quarters on the +marsh. The direct course to the lake was west, and I fully expected some +deception, as it was impossible to trust Kamrasi. I complained to the +guide, and insisted upon his pointing out the direction of the lake, +which he did, in its real position, west; but he explained that we must +follow the south bank of the Kafoor river for some days, as there was an +impassable morass that precluded a direct course. This did not appear +satisfactory, and the whole affair looked suspicious, as we had formerly +been deceived by being led across the river in the same spot, and not +allowed to return. We were now led along the banks of the Kafoor for +about a mile, until we arrived at a cluster of huts; here we were to +wait for Kamrasi, who had promised to take leave of us. The sun was +overpowering, and we dismounted from our oxen, and took shelter in a +blacksmith's shed. In about an hour Kamrasi arrived, attended by a +considerable number of men, and took his seat in our shed. I felt +convinced that his visit was simply intended to peel the last skin from +the onion. I had already given him nearly all that I had, but he hoped +to extract the whole before I should depart. + +He almost immediately commenced the conversation by asking for a pretty +yellow muslin Turkish handkerchief fringed with silver drops that Mrs. +Baker wore upon her head: one of these had already been given to him, +and I explained that this was the last remaining, and that she required +it .... He "must" have it .... It was given. + +He then demanded other handkerchiefs. We had literally nothing but a few +most ragged towels; he would accept no excuse, and insisted upon a +portmanteau being unpacked, that he might satisfy himself by actual +inspection. The luggage, all ready for the journey, had to be unstrapped +and examined, and the rags were displayed in succession; but so wretched +and uninviting was the exhibition of the family linen, that he simply +returned them, and said "they did not suit him." Beads he must have, or +I was "his enemy." A selection of the best opal beads was immediately +given him. I rose from the stone upon which I was sitting, and declared +that we must start immediately. "Don't be in a hurry," he replied; "you +have plenty of time; but you have not given me that watch you promised +me." .... This was my only watch that he had begged for, and had been +refused every day during my stay at M'rooli. So pertinacious a beggar I +had never seen. I explained to him that, without the watch, my, journey +would be useless, but that I would give him all that I had except the +watch when the exploration should be completed, as I should require +nothing on my direct return to Gondokoro. At the same time, I repeated +to him the arrangement for the journey that he had promised, begging him +not to deceive me, as my wife and I should both die if we were compelled +to remain another year in this country by losing the annual boats in +Gondokoro. The understanding was this: he was to give me porters to the +lake, where I was to be furnished with canoes to take me to Magungo, +which was situated at the junction of the Somerset. From Magungo he told +me that I should see the Nile issuing from the lake close to the spot +where the Somerset entered, and that the canoes should take me down the +river, and porters should carry my effects from the nearest point to +Shooa, and deliver me at my old station without delay. Should he be +faithful to this engagement, I trusted to procure porters from Shooa, +and to reach Gondokoro in time for the annual boats. I had arranged that +a boat should be sent from Khartoum to await me at Gondokoro early in +this year, 1864; but I felt sure that should I be long delayed, the boat +would return without me, as the people would be afraid to remain alone +at Gondokoro after the other boats had quitted. + +In our present weak state another year of Central Africa without quinine +appeared to warrant death; it was a race against time, all was untrodden +ground before us, and the distance quite uncertain. I trembled for my +wife, and weighed the risk of another year in this horrible country +should we lose the boats. With the self-sacrificing devotion that she +had shown in every trial, she implored me not to think of any risks on +her account, but to push forward and discover the lake---that she had +determined not to return until she had herself reached the "M'wootan +N'zige." + +I now requested Kamrasi to allow us to take leave, as we had not an hour +to lose. In the coolest manner he replied, "I will send you to the lake +and to Shooa, as I have promised; but, YOU MUST LEAVE YOUR WIFE WITH ME!" +At that moment we were surrounded by a great number of natives, and my +suspicions of treachery at having been led across the Kafoor river +appeared confirmed by this insolent demand. If this were to be the end +of the expedition I resolved that it should also be the end of Kamrasi, +and, drawing my revolver quietly, I held it within two feet of his +chest, and looking at him with undisguised contempt, I told him that if +I touched the trigger, not all his men could save him: and that if he +dared to repeat the insult I would shoot him on the spot. At the same +time I explained to him that in my country such insolence would entail +bloodshed, and that I looked upon him as an ignorant ox who knew no +better, and that this excuse alone could save him. My wife, naturally +indignant, had risen from her seat, and, maddened with the excitement of +the moment, she made him a little speech in Arabic (not a word of which +he understood), with a countenance almost as amiable as the head of +Medusa. Altogether the Mise en Scene utterly astonished him; the woman +Bacheeta, although savage, had appropriated the insult to her mistress, +and she also fearlessly let fly at Kamrasi, translating as nearly as she +could the complimentary address that Medusa had just delivered. + +Whether this little coup de theatre had so impressed Kamrasi with +British female independence that he wished to be off his bargain, I +cannot say, but with an air of complete astonishment, he said, "Don't be +angry! I had no intention of offending you by asking for your wife; I +will give you a wife, if you want one, and I thought you might have no +objection to give me yours; it is my custom to give my visitors pretty +wives, and I thought you might exchange. Don't make a fuss about it; if +you don't like it, there's an end of it; I will never mention it again." +This very practical apology I received very sternly, and merely insisted +upon starting. He seemed rather confused at having committed himself, +and to make amends he called his people and ordered them to carry our +loads. + +His men ordered a number of women, who had assembled out of curiosity, +to shoulder the luggage and carry it to the next village, where they +would be relieved. I assisted my wife upon her ox, and with a very cold +adieu to Kamrasi, I turned my back most gladly on M'rooli. + +The country was a vast flat of grass land interspersed with small +villages and patches of sweet potatoes; these were very inferior, owing +to the want of drainage. For about two miles we continued on the banks +of the Kafoor river; the women who carried the luggage were straggling +in disorder, and my few men were much scattered in their endeavours to +collect them. We approached a considerable village; but just as we were +nearing it, out rushed about six hundred men with lances and shields, +screaming and yelling like so many demons. For the moment, I thought it +was an attack, but almost immediately I noticed that women and children +were mingled with the men. + +My men had not taken so cool a view of the excited throng that was now +approaching us at full speed, brandishing their spears, and engaging +with each other in mock combat. "There's a fight!---there's a fight! "my +men exclaimed; "we are attacked! fire at them, Hawaga." However, in a +few seconds I persuaded them that it was a mere parade, and that there +was no danger. With a rush, like a cloud of locusts, the natives closed +around us, dancing, gesticulating, and yelling before my ox, feigning to +attack us with spears and shields, then engaging in sham fights with +each other, and behaving like so many madmen. A very tall chief +accompanied them; and one of their men was suddenly knocked down, and +attacked by the crowd with sticks and lances, and lay on the ground +covered with blood: what his offence had been I did not hear. The entire +crowd were most grotesquely got up, being dressed in either leopard or +white monkey skins, with cows' tails strapped on behind, and antelopes' +horns fitted upon their heads, while their chins were ornamented with +false beards, made of the bushy ends of cows' tails sewed together. +Altogether, I never saw a more unearthly set of creatures; they were +perfect illustrations of my childish ideas of devils--horns, tails, +and all, excepting the hoofs; they were our escort! furnished by Kamrasi +to accompany us to the lake. Fortunately for all parties the Turks were +not with us on that occasion, or the satanic escort would certainly have +been received with a volley when they so rashly advanced to compliment +us by their absurd performances. + +We marched till 7 P.M. over flat, uninteresting country, and then halted +at a miserable village which the people had deserted, as they expected +our arrival. The following morning I found much difficulty in getting +our escort together, as they had been foraging throughout the +neighbourhood; these "devil's own" were a portion of Kamrasi's troops, +who considered themselves entitled to plunder ad libitum throughout the +march; however, after some delay, they collected, and their tall chief +approached me, and begged that a gun might be fired as a curiosity. The +escort had crowded around us, and as the boy Saat was close to me, I +ordered him to fire his gun. This was Saat's greatest delight, and bang +went one barrel unexpectedly, close to the tall chief's ear. The effect +was charming. The tall chief, thinking himself injured, clasped his head +with both hands, and bolted through the crowd, which, struck with a +sudden panic, rushed away in all directions, the "devil's own" tumbling +over each other, and utterly scattered by the second barrel which Saat +exultingly fired in derision as Kamrasi's warlike regiment dissolved +before a sound. I felt quite sure, that in the event of a fight, one +scream from the "Baby," with its charge of forty small bullets, would +win the battle, if well delivered into a crowd of Kamrasi's troops. + +That afternoon, after a march through a most beautiful forest of large +mimosas in full blossom, we arrived at the morass that had necessitated +this great detour from our direct course to the lake. It was nearly +three-quarters of a mile broad, and so deep, that in many places the +oxen were obliged to swim; both Mrs. Baker and I were carried across on +our angareps by twelve men with the greatest difficulty; the guide, who +waded before us to show the way, suddenly disappeared in a deep hole, +and his bundle that he had carried on his head, being of light +substance, was seen floating like a buoy upon the surface; after a +thorough sousing, the guide reappeared, and scrambled out, and we made a +circuit, the men toiling frequently up to their necks through mud and +water. On arrival at the opposite side we continued through the same +beautiful forest, and slept that night at a deserted village, M'Baze. I +obtained two observations; one of Capella, giving lat. 1 degrees 24 +minutes 47 seconds N., and of Canopus 1 degree 23 minutes 29 seconds. + +The next day we were much annoyed by our native escort; instead of +attending to us, they employed their time in capering and dancing about, +screaming and gesticulating, and suddenly rushing off in advance +whenever we approached a village, which they plundered before we could +arrive. In this manner every place was stripped; nor could we procure +anything to eat unless by purchasing it for beads from the native +escort. We slept at Karche, lat. 1 degree 19 minutes 31 seconds N. + +We were both ill, but were obliged to ride through the hottest hours of +the sun, as our followers were never ready to start at an early hour in +the morning. The native escort were perfectly independent, and so +utterly wild and savage in their manner, that they appeared more +dangerous than the general inhabitants of the country. + +My wife was extremely anxious, since the occasion of Kamrasi's +"proposal," as she was suspicious that so large an escort as three +hundred men had been given for some treacherous purpose, and that I +should perhaps be waylaid to enable them to steal her for the king. I +had not the slightest fear of such an occurrence, as sentries were +always on guard during the night, and I was well prepared during the +day. + +On the following morning we had the usual difficulty in collecting +porters, those of the preceding day having absconded, and others were +recruited from distant villages by the native escort, who enjoyed the +excuse of hunting for porters, as it gave them an opportunity of +foraging throughout the neighbourhood. During this time we had to wait +until the sun was high; we thus lost the cool hours of morning, and it +increased our fatigue. Having at length started, we arrived in the +afternoon at the Kafoor river, at a bend from the south where it was +necessary to cross over in our westerly course. The stream was in the +centre of a marsh, and although deep, it was so covered with thickly +matted water-grass and other aquatic plants, that a natural floating +bridge was established by a carpet of weeds about two feet thick: upon +this waving and unsteady surface the men ran quickly across, sinking +merely to the ankles, although beneath the tough vegetation there was +deep water. It was equally impossible to ride or to be carried over this +treacherous surface; thus I led the way, and begged Mrs. Baker to follow +me on foot as quickly as possible, precisely in my track. The river was +about eighty yards wide, and I had scarcely completed a fourth of the +distance and looked back to see if my wife followed close to me, when I +was horrified to see her standing in one spot, and sinking gradually +through the weeds, while her face was distorted and perfectly purple. +Almost as soon as I perceived her, she fell, as though shot dead. + +In an instant I was by her side; and with the assistance of eight or ten +of my men, who were fortunately close to me, I dragged her like a corpse +through the yielding vegetation, and up to our waists we scrambled +across to the other side, just keeping her head above the water: to have +carried her would have been impossible, as we should all have sunk +together through the weeds. I laid her under a tree, and bathed her head +and face with water, as for the moment I thought she had fainted; but +she lay perfectly insensible, as though dead, with teeth and hands +firmly clenched, and her eyes open, but fixed. It was a coup de soleil. + +Many of the porters had gone on ahead with the baggage; and I started +off a man in haste to recall an angarep upon which to carry her, and +also for a bag with a change of clothes, as we had dragged her through +the river. It was in vain that I rubbed her heart, and the black women +rubbed her feet, to endeavour to restore animation. At length the litter +came, and after changing her clothes, she was carried mournfully forward +as a corpse. Constantly we had to halt and support her head, as a +painful rattling in the throat betokened suffocation. + +At length we reached a village, and halted for the night. I laid her +carefully in a miserable hut, and watched beside her. I opened her +clenched teeth with a small wooden wedge, and inserted a wet rag, upon +which I dropped water to moisten her tongue, which was dry as fur. The +unfeeling brutes that composed the native escort were yelling and +dancing as though all were well; and I ordered their chief at once to +return with them to Kamrasi, as I would travel with them no longer. At +first they refused to return; until at length I vowed that I would fire +into them should they accompany us on the following morning. Day broke +and it was a relief to have got rid of the brutal escort. They had +departed, and I had now my own men, and the guides supplied by Kamrasi. + +There was nothing to eat in this spot. My wife had never stirred since +she fell by the coup de soleil, and merely respired about five times in +a minute. It was impossible to remain; the people would have starved. +She was laid gently upon her litter, and we started forward on our +funeral course. I was ill and broken-hearted, and I followed by her side +through the long day's march over wild parklands and streams, with thick +forest and deep marshy bottoms; over undulating hills, and through +valleys of tall papyrus rushes, which, as we brushed through them on our +melancholy way, waved over the litter like the black plumes of a hearse. +We halted at a village, and again the night was passed in watching. I +was wet, and coated with mud from the swampy marsh, and shivered with +ague; but the cold within was greater than all. No change had taken +place; she had never moved. I had plenty of fat, and I made four balls +of about half a pound, each of which would burn for three hours. A piece +of a broken water-jar formed a lamp, several pieces of rag serving for +wicks. So in solitude the still calm night passed away as I sat by her +side and watched. In the drawn and distorted features that lay before me +I could hardly trace the same face that for years had been my comfort +through all the difficulties and dangers of my path. Was she to die? Was +so terrible a sacrifice to be the result of my selfish exile? + +Again the night passed away. Once more the march. Though weak and ill, +and for two nights without a moment's sleep, I felt no fatigue, but +mechanically followed by the side of the litter as though in a dream. +The same wild country diversified with marsh and forest. Again we +halted. The night came, and I sat by her side in a miserable hut, with +the feeble lamp flickering while she lay as in death. She had never +moved a muscle since she fell. My people slept. I was alone, and no +sound broke the stillness of the night. The ears ached at the utter +silence, till the sudden wild cry of a hyena made me shudder as the +horrible thought rushed through my brain, that, should she be buried in +this lonely spot, the hyena would . . . disturb her rest. + +The morning was not far distant; it was past four o'clock. I had passed +the night in replacing wet cloths upon her head and moistening her lips, +as she lay apparently lifeless on her litter. I could do nothing more; +in solitude and abject misery in that dark hour, in a country of savage +heathens, thousand of miles away from a Christian land, I beseeched an +aid above all human, trusting alone to Him. + +The morning broke; my lamp had just burnt out, and, cramped with the +night's watching, I rose from my low seat, and seeing that she lay in +the same unaltered state, I went to the door of the hut to breathe one +gasp of the fresh morning air. I was watching the first red streak that +heralded the rising sun, when I was startled by the words, "Thank God," +faintly uttered behind me. Suddenly she had awoke from her torpor, and +with a heart overflowing I went to her bedside. Her eyes were full of +madness! She spoke; but the brain was gone! + +I will not inflict a description of the terrible trial of seven days of +brain fever, with its attendant horrors. The rain poured in torrents, +and day after day we were forced to travel, for want of provisions, not +being able to remain in one position. Every now and then we shot a few +guinea-fowl, but rarely; there was no game, although the country was +most favourable. In the forests we procured wild honey, but the deserted +villages contained no supplies, as we were on the frontier of Uganda, +and M'tese's people had plundered the district. For seven nights I had +not slept, and although as weak as a reed, I had marched by the side of +her litter. Nature could resist no longer. We reached a village one +evening; she had been in violent convulsions successively--it was all +but over. I laid her down on her litter within a hut; covered her with a +Scotch plaid; and I fell upon my mat insensible, worn out with sorrow +and fatigue. My men put a new handle to the pickaxe that evening, and +sought for a dry spot to dig her grave! + + + +CHAPTER XIL + +RECOVERED. + +The sun had risen when I woke. I had slept, and, horrified as the idea +flashed upon me that she must be dead, and that I had not been with her, +I started up. She lay upon her bed, pale as marble, and with that calm +serenity that the features assume when the cares of life no longer act +upon the mind, and the body rests in death. The dreadful thought bowed +me down; but as I gazed upon her in fear, her chest gently heaved, not +with the convulsive throbs of fever, but naturally. She was asleep; and +when at a sudden noise she opened her eyes, they were calm and clear. +She was saved! When not a ray of hope remained, God alone knows what +helped us. The gratitude of that moment I will not attempt to describe. + +Fortunately there were many fowls in this village; we found several +nests of fresh eggs in the straw which littered the hut; these were most +acceptable after our hard fare, and produced a good supply of soup. + +Having rested for two days, we again moved forward, Mrs. Baker being +carried on a litter. We now continued on elevated ground, on the north +side of a valley running from west to east, about sixteen miles broad, +and exceedingly swampy. The rocks composing the ridge upon which we +travelled due west were all gneiss and quartz, with occasional breaks, +forming narrow valleys, all of which were swamps choked with immense +papyrus rushes, that made the march very fatiguing. In one of these +muddy bottoms one of my riding oxen that was ill, stuck fast, and we +were obliged to abandon it, intending to send a number of natives to +drag it out with ropes. + +On arrival at a village, our guide started about fifty men for this +purpose, while we continued our journey. That evening we reached a +village belonging to a headman, and very superior to most that we had +passed on the route from M'rooli: large sugarcanes of the blue variety +were growing in the fields, and I had seen coffee growing wild in the +forest in the vicinity. I was sitting at the door of the hut about two +hours after sunset, smoking a pipe of excellent tobacco, when I suddenly +heard a great singing in chorus advancing rapidly from a distance +towards the entrance of the courtyard. At first I imagined that the +natives intended dancing, which was an infliction that I wished to +avoid, as I was tired and feverish; but in a few minutes the boy Saat +introduced a headman, who told me that the riding ox had died in the +swamp where he had stuck fast in the morning, and that the natives had +brought his body to me. "What!" I replied, "brought his body, the entire +ox, to me?" "The entire ox as he died is delivered at your door," +answered the headman; "I could not allow any of your property to be lost +upon the road. Had the body of the ox not been delivered to you, we +might have been suspected of having stolen it." I went to the entrance +of the courtyard, and amidst a crowd of natives I found the entire ox +exactly as he had died. They had carried him about eight miles on a +litter, which they had constructed of two immensely long posts with +cross-pieces of bamboo, upon which they had laid the body. They would +not eat the flesh, and seemed quite disgusted at the idea, as they +replied that "it had died." + +It is a curious distinction of the Unyoro people, that they are +peculiarly clean feeders, and will not touch either the flesh of animals +that have died, neither of those that are sick; nor will they eat the +crocodile. They asked for no remuneration for bringing their heavy load +so great a distance; and they departed in good humour as a matter of +course. + +Never were such contradictory people as these creatures; they had +troubled us dreadfully during the journey, as they would suddenly +exclaim against the weight of their loads, and throw them down, and bolt +into the high grass; yet now they had of their own free will delivered +to me a whole dead ox from a distance of eight miles, precisely as +though it had been an object of the greatest value. + +The name of this village was Parkani. For several days past our guides +had told us that we were very near to the lake, and we were now assured +that we should reach it on the morrow. I had noticed a lofty range of +mountains at an immense distance west, and I had imagined that the lake +lay on the other side of this chain; but I was now informed that those +mountains formed the western frontier of the M'-wootan N'zige, and that +the lake was actually within a march of Parkani. I could not believe it +possible that we were so near the object of our search. The guide +Rabonga now appeared, and declared that if we started early on the +following morning we should be able to wash in the lake by noon! + +That night I hardly slept. For years I had striven to reach the "sources +of the Nile." In my nightly dreams during that arduous voyage I had +always failed, but after so much hard work and perseverance the cup was +at my very lips, and I was to drink at the mysterious fountain before +another sun should set--at that great reservoir of Nature that ever +since creation had baffled all discovery. I had hoped, and prayed, and +striven through all kinds of difficulties, in sickness, starvation, and +fatigue, to reach that hidden source; and when it had appeared +impossible, we had both determined to die upon the road rather than +return defeated. Was it possible that it was so near, and that tomorrow +we could say, "the work is accomplished?" + +The 14th March.--The sun had not risen when I was spurring my ox after +the guide, who, having been promised a double handful of beads on +arrival at the lake, had caught the enthusiasm of the moment. The day +broke beautifully clear, and having crossed a deep valley between the +hills, we toiled up the opposite slope. I hurried to the summit. The +glory of our prize burst suddenly upon me! There, like a sea of +quicksilver, lay far beneath the grand expanse of water,--a boundless +sea horizon on the south and southwest, glittering in the noonday sun; +and on the west, at fifty or sixty miles' distance, blue mountains rose +from the bosom of the lake to a height of about 7,000 feet above its +level. + +It is impossible to describe the triumph of that moment;--here was the +reward for all our labour--for the years of tenacity with which we had +toiled through Africa. England had won the sources of the Nile! Long +before I reached this spot, I had arranged to give three cheers with all +our men in English style in honour of the discovery, but now that I +looked down upon the great inland sea lying nestled in the very heart of +Africa, and thought how vainly mankind had sought these sources +throughout so many ages, and reflected that I had been the humble +instrument permitted to unravel this portion of the great mystery when +so many greater than I had failed, I felt too serious to vent my +feelings in vain cheers for victory, and I sincerely thanked God for +having guided and supported us through all dangers to the good end. I +was about 1,500 feet above the lake, and I looked down from the steep +granite cliff upon those welcome waters--upon that vast reservoir +which nourished Egypt and brought fertility where all was wilderness-- +upon that great source so long hidden from mankind; that source of +bounty and of blessings to millions of human beings; and as one of the +greatest objects in nature, I determined to honour it with a great name. +As an imperishable memorial of one loved and mourned by our gracious +Queen and deplored by every Englishman, I called this great lake "the +Albert N'yanza." The Victoria and the Albert lakes are the two Sources +of the Nile. + +The zigzag path to descend to the lake was so steep and dangerous that +we were forced to leave our oxen with a guide, who was to take them to +Magungo and wait for our arrival. We commenced the descent of the steep +pass on foot. I led the way, grasping a stout bamboo. My wife in extreme +weakness tottered down the pass, supporting herself upon my shoulder, +and stopping to rest every twenty paces. After a toilsome descent of +about two hours, weak with years of fever, but for the moment +strengthened by success, we gained the level plain below the cliff. A +walk of about a mile through flat sandy meadows of fine turf +interspersed with trees and bush, brought us to the water's edge. The +waves were rolling upon a white pebbly beach: I rushed into the lake, +and thirsty with heat and fatigue, with a heart full of gratitude, I +drank deeply from the Sources of the Nile. Within a quarter of a mile of +the lake was a fishing village named Vacovia, in which we now +established ourselves. Everything smelt of fish--and everything looked +like fishing; not the "gentle art" of England with rod and fly, but +harpoons were leaning against the huts, and lines almost as thick as the +little finger were hanging up to dry, to which were attached iron hooks +of a size that said much for the monsters of the Albert lake. On +entering the hut I found a prodigious quantity of tackle; the lines were +beautifully made of the fibre of the plantain stem, and were exceedingly +elastic, and well adapted to withstand the first rush of a heavy fish; +the hooks were very coarse, but well barbed, and varied in size from two +to six inches. A number of harpoons and floats for hippopotami were +arranged in good order, and the tout ensemble of the hut showed that the +owner was a sportsman. + +The harpoons for hippopotami were precisely the same pattern as those +used by the Hamran Arabs on the Taka frontier of Abyssinia, having a +narrow blade of three-quarters of an inch in width, with only one barb. +The rope fitted to the harpoon was beautifully made of plantain fibre, +and the float was a huge piece of ambatch-wood about fifteen inches in +diameter. They speared the hippopotamus from canoes, and these large +floats were necessary to be easily distinguished in the rough waters of +the lake. + +My men were perfectly astounded at the appearance of the lake. The +journey had been so long, and "hope deferred" had so completely sickened +their hearts, that they had long since disbelieved in the existence of +the lake, and they were persuaded that I was leading them to the sea. +They now looked at the lake with amazement--two of them had already +seen the sea at Alexandria, and they unhesitatingly declared that this +was the sea, but that it was not salt. + +Vacovia was a miserable place, and the soil was so impregnated with +salt, that no cultivation was possible. Salt was the natural product of +the country; and the population were employed in its manufacture, which +constituted the business of the lake shores--being exchanged for +supplies from the interior. I went to examine the pits: these were about +six feet deep, from which was dug a black sandy mud that was placed in +large earthenware jars; these were supported upon frames, and mixed with +water, which filtering rapidly through small holes in the bottom, was +received in jars beneath: this water was again used with fresh mud until +it became a strong brine, when it was boiled and evaporated. The salt +was white, but very bitter. I imagine that it has been formed by the +decay of aquatic plants that have been washed ashore by the waves; +decomposing, they have formed a mud deposit, and much potash is combined +with the salt. The flat sandy meadow that extends from the lake for +about a mile to the foot of the precipitous cliffs of 1,500 feet, +appears to have formed at one period the bottom of the lake--in fact, +the flat land of Vacovia looks like a bay, as the mountain cliffs about +five miles south and north descend abruptly to the water, and the flat +is the bottom of a horseshoe formed by the cliffs. Were the level of the +lake fifteen feet higher, this flat would be flooded to the base of the +hills. + +I procured a couple of kids from the chief of the village for some blue +beads, and having received an ox as a present from the headman of +Parkani in return for a number of beads and bracelets, I gave my men a +grand feast in honour of the discovery; I made them an address, +explaining to them how much trouble we should have been saved had my +whole party behaved well from the first commencement and trusted to my +guidance, as we should have arrived here twelve mouths ago; at the same +time I told them, that it was a greater honour to have achieved the task +with so small a force as thirteen men, and that as the lake was thus +happily reached, and Mrs. Baker was restored to health after so terrible +a danger, I should forgive them past offences and wipe out all that had +been noted against them in my journal. This delighted my people, who +ejaculated "El hamd el Illah!" (thank God!) and fell to immediately at +their beef. + +At sunrise on the following morning I took the compass, and accompanied +by the chief of the village, my guide Rabonga, and the woman Bacheeta, I +went to the borders of the lake to survey the country. It was +beautifully clear, and with a powerful telescope I could distinguish two +large waterfalls that cleft the sides of the mountains on the opposite +shore. Although the outline of the mountains was distinct upon the +bright blue sky, and the dark shades upon their sides denoted deep +gorges, I could not distinguish other features than the two great falls, +which looked like threads of silver on the dark face of the mountains. +No base had been visible, even from an elevation of 1,500 feet above the +water level, on my first view of the lake, but the chain of lofty +mountains on the west appeared to rise suddenly from the water. This +appearance must have been due to the great distance, the base being +below the horizon, as dense columns of smoke were ascending apparently +from the surface of the water: this must have been produced by the +burning of prairies at the foot of the mountains. The chief assured me +that large canoes had been known to cross over from the other side, but +that it required four days and nights of hard rowing to accomplish the +voyage, and that many boats had been lost in the attempt. The canoes of +Unyoro were not adapted for so dangerous a journey; but the western +shore of the lake was comprised in the great kingdom of Malegga, +governed by King Kajoro, who possessed large canoes, and traded with +Kamrasi from a point opposite to Magungo, where the lake was contracted +to the width of one day's voyage. He described Malegga as a very +powerful country, and of greater extent than either Unyora or Uganda. +. . . South of Malegga was a country named Tori, governed by a king of +the same name: beyond that country to the south on the western shore +no intelligence could be obtained from any one. + +The lake was known to extend as far south as Karagwe; and the old story +was repeated, that Rumanika, the king of that country, was in the habit +of sending ivory-hunting parties to the lake at Utumbi, and that +formerly they had navigated the lake to Magungo. This was a curious +confirmation of the report given me by Speke at Gondokoro, who wrote: +"Rumanika is constantly in the habit of sending ivory-hunting parties to +Utumbi." + +The eastern shores of the lake were, from north to south, occupied by +Chopi, Unyoro, Uganda, Utumbi, and Karagwe: from the last point, which +could not be less than about two degrees south latitude, the lake was +reported to turn suddenly to the west, and to continue in that direction +for an unknown distance. North of Malegga, on the west of the lake, was +a small country called M'Caroli; then Koshi, on the west side of the +Nile at its exit from the lake; and on the east side of the Nile was the +Madi, opposite to Koshi. Both the guide and the chief of Vacovia +informed me that we should be taken by canoes to Magungo, to the point +at which the Somerset that we had left at Karuma joined the lake; but +that we could not ascend it, as it was a succession of cataracts the +whole way from Karuma until within a short distance of Magungo. The exit +of the Nile from the lake at Koshi was navigable for a considerable +distance, and canoes could descend the river as far as the Madi. + +They both agreed that the level of the lake was never lower than at +present, and that it never rose higher than a mark upon the beach that +accounted for an increase of about four feet. The beach was perfectly +clean sand, upon which the waves rolled like those of the sea, throwing +up weeds precisely as seaweed may be seen upon the English shore. It was +a grand sight to look upon this vast reservoir of the mighty Nile, and +to watch the heavy swell tumbling upon the beach, while far to the +southwest the eye searched as vainly for a bound as though upon the +Atlantic. It was with extreme emotion that I enjoyed this glorious +scene. My wife, who had followed me so devotedly, stood by my side pale +and exhausted--a wreck upon the shores of the great Albert lake that +we had so long striven to reach. No European foot had ever trod upon its +sand, nor had the eyes of a white man ever scanned its vast expanse of +water. We were the first; and this was the key to the great secret that +even Julius Caesar yearned to unravel, but in vain. Here was the great +basin of the Nile that received EVERY DROP OF WATER, even from the +passing shower to the roaring mountain torrent that drained from Central +Africa towards the north. This was the great reservoir of the Nile! + +The first coup d'oeil from the summit of the cliff 1,500 feet above the +level had suggested what a closer examination confirmed. The lake was a +vast depression far below the general level of the country, surrounded +by precipitous cliffs, and bounded on the west and southwest by great +ranges of mountains from five to seven thousand feet above the level of +its waters--thus it was the one great reservoir into which everything +MUST drain; and from this vast rocky cistern the Nile made its exit, a +giant in its birth. It was a grand arrangement of Nature for the birth +of so mighty and important a stream as the river Nile. The Victoria +N'yanza of Speke formed a reservoir at a high altitude, receiving a +drainage from the west by the Kitangule river, and Speke had seen the +M'fumbiro mountain at a great distance as a peak among other mountains +from which the streams descended, which by uniting formed the main river +Kitangule, the principal feeder of the Victoria lake from the west, in +about the 2 degrees S. latitude: thus the same chain of mountains that +fed the Victoria on the east must have a watershed to the west and north +that would flow into the Albert lake. The general drainage of the Nile +basin tending from south to north, and the Albert lake extending much +farther north than the Victoria, it receives the river from the latter +lake, and thus monopolizes the entire headwaters of the Nile. The Albert +is the grand reservoir, while the Victoria is the eastern source, the +parent streams that form these lakes are from the same origin, and the +Kitangule sheds its waters to the Victoria to be received eventually by +the Albert, precisely as the highlands of M'fumbiro and the Blue +Mountains pour their northern drainage direct into the Albert lake. The +entire Nile system, from the first Abyssinian tributary the Atbara in N. +latitude 17 deg. 37 min. even to the equator, exhibits a uniform +drainage from S.E. to N.W., every tributary flowing in that direction to +the main stream of the Nile; this system is persisted in by the Victoria +Nile, which having continued a northerly course from its exit from the +Victoria lake to Karuma in lat. 2 degrees 16' N. turns suddenly to the +west and meets the Albert lake at Magungo; thus, a line drawn from +Magungo to the Ripon Falls from the Victoria lake will prove the general +slope of the country to be the same as exemplified throughout the entire +system of the eastern basin of the Nile, tending from S.E. to N.W. + +That many considerable affluents flow into the Albert lake there is no +doubt. The two waterfalls seen by telescope upon the western shore +descending from the Blue Mountains must be most important streams, or +they could not have been distinguished at so great a distance as fifty +or sixty miles; the natives assured me that very many streams, varying +in size, descended the mountains upon all sides into the general +reservoir. + +I returned to my hut: the flat turf in the vicinity of the village was +strewn with the bones of immense fish, hippopotami, and crocodiles; but +the latter reptiles were merely caught in revenge for any outrage +committed by them, as their flesh was looked upon with disgust by the +natives of Unyoro. They were so numerous and voracious in the lake, that +the natives cautioned us not to allow the women to venture into the +water even to the knees when filling their water jars. + +It was most important that we should hurry forward on our journey, as +our return to England depended entirely upon the possibility of reaching +Gondokoro before the end of April, otherwise the boats would have +departed. I impressed upon our guide and the chief that we must be +furnished with large canoes immediately, as we had no time to spare, and +I started off Rabonga to Magungo, where he was to meet us with our +riding oxen. The animals would be taken by a path upon the high ground; +there was no possibility of travelling near the lake, as the cliffs in +many places descended abruptly into deep water. I made him a present of +a large quantity of beads that I had promised to give him upon reaching +the lake; he took his departure, agreeing to meet us at Magungo with our +oxen, and to have porters in readiness to convey us direct to Shooa. + +On the following morning not one of our party could rise from the +ground. Thirteen men, the boy Saat, four women, and we ourselves, were +all down with fever. The air was hot and close, and the country +frightfully unhealthy. The natives assured us that all strangers +suffered in a similar manner, and that no one could live at Vacovia +without repeated attacks of fever. + +The delay in supplying the boats was most annoying; every hour was +precious; and the lying natives deceived us in every manner possible, +delaying us purposely in the hope of extorting beads. + +The latitude of Vacovia was 1 degree 15 min. N.; longitude 30 degrees 50 +min. E. My farthest southern point on the road from M'rooli was latitude +1 degree 13 minutes. We were now to turn our faces towards the north, +and every day's journey would bring us nearer home. But where was home? +As I looked at the map of the world, and at the little red spot that +represented old England far, far away, and then gazed on the wasted form +and haggard face of my wife and at my own attenuated frame, I hardly +dared hope for home again. We had now been three years ever toiling +onwards, and having completed the exploration of all the Abyssinian +affluents of the Nile, in itself an arduous undertaking, we were now +actually at the Nile head. We had neither health nor supplies, and the +great journey lay all before us. + +Notwithstanding my daily entreaties that boats might be supplied without +delay, eight days were passed at Vacovia, during which time the whole +party suffered more or less from fever. At length canoes were reported +to have arrived, and I was requested to inspect them. They were merely +single trees neatly hollowed out, but very inferior in size to the large +canoes on the Nile at M'rooli. The largest boat was thirty-two feet +long, but I selected for ourselves one of twenty-six feet, but wider and +deeper. + +Fortunately I had purchased at Khartoum an English screw auger 1 1/4 +inch in diameter, and this tool I had brought with me, foreseeing some +difficulties in boating arrangements. I now bored holes two feet apart +in the gunwale of the canoe, and having prepared long elastic wands, I +spanned them in arches across the boat and lashed them to the auger +holes. This completed, I secured them by diagonal pieces, and concluded +by thatching the framework with a thin coating of reeds to protect us +from the sun; over the thatch I stretched ox-hides well drawn and +lashed, so as to render our roof waterproof. This arrangement formed a +tortoise-like protection that would be proof against sun and rain. I +then arranged some logs of exceedingly light wood along the bottom of +the canoe, and covered them with a thick bed of grass; this was covered +with an Abyssinian tanned ox-hide, and arranged with Scotch plaids. The +arrangements completed, afforded a cabin, perhaps not as luxurious as +those of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's vessels, but both rain- +and sun-proof, which was the great desideratum. In this rough vessel we +embarked on a calm morning, when hardly a ripple moved the even surface +of the lake. Each canoe had four rowers, two at either end. Their +paddles were beautifully shaped, hewn from one piece of wood, the blade +being rather wider than that of an ordinary spade, but concave in the +inner side, so as to give the rower a great hold upon the water. Having +purchased with some difficulty a few fowls and dried fish, I put the +greater number of my men in the larger canoe; and with Richarn, Saat, +and the women, including the interpreter Bacheeta, we led the way, and +started from Vacovia on the broad surface of the Albert N'yanza. The +rowers paddled bravely; and the canoe, although heavily laden, went +along at about four miles an hour. There was no excitement in Vacovia, +and the chief and two or three attendants were all who came to see us +off; they had a suspicion that bystanders might be invited to assist as +rowers, therefore the entire population of the village had deserted. + +At leaving the shore, the chief had asked for a few beads, which, on +receiving, he threw into the lake to propitiate the inhabitants of the +deep, that no hippopotami should upset the canoe. + +Our first day's voyage was delightful. The lake was calm, the sky +cloudy, and the scenery most lovely. At times the mountains on the west +coast were not discernible, and the lake appeared of indefinite width. +We coasted within a hundred yards of the east shore; sometimes we passed +flats of sand and bush of perhaps a mile in width from the water to the +base of the mountain cliffs; at other times we passed directly +underneath stupendous heights of about 1,500 feet, which ascended +abruptly from the deep, so that we fended the canoes off the sides, and +assisted our progress by pushing against the rock with bamboos. These +precipitous rocks were all primitive, frequently of granite and gneiss, +and mixed in many places with red porphyry. In the clefts were beautiful +ever-greens of every tint, including giant euphorbias; and wherever a +rivulet or spring glittered through the dark foliage of a ravine, it was +shaded by the graceful and feathery wild date. + +Great numbers of hippopotami were sporting in the water, but I refused +to fire at them, as the death of such a monster would be certain to +delay us for at least a day, as the boatmen would not forsake the flesh. +Crocodiles were exceedingly numerous both in and out of the water; +wherever a sandy beach invited them to bask, several monsters were to be +seen, like trunks of trees, lying in the sun. On the edge of the beach +above high-water mark were low bushes, and from this cover the +crocodiles came scuttling down into the water, frightened at the +approach of the canoe. There were neither ducks nor geese, as there were +no feeding-grounds: deep water was close to the shore. + +Our boatmen worked well, and long after dark we continued our voyage, +until the canoe was suddenly steered to the shore, and we grounded upon +a steep beach of perfectly clean sand. We were informed that we were +near a village, and the boatmen proposed to leave us here for the night, +while they should proceed in search of provisions. Seeing that they +intended to take the paddles with them, I ordered these important +implements to be returned to the boats, and a guard set over them, while +several of my men should accompany the boatmen to the reported village. +In the meantime, we arranged our angareps upon the beach, lighted a fire +with some drift-wood, and prepared for the night. The men shortly +returned, accompanied by several natives, with two fowls and one small +kid. The latter was immediately consigned to the large copper pot, and I +paid about three times its value to the natives, to encourage them to +bring supplies on the following morning. + +While dinner was preparing, I took an observation, and found our +latitude was 1 degree 33 minutes N. We had travelled well, having made +16 minutes direct northing. + +On the first crowing of our solitary cock, we prepared to start;--the +boatmen were gone! + +As soon as it was light, I took two men and went to the village, +supposing they were sleeping in their huts. Within three hundred paces +of the boats, upon a fine turfy sward, on rising ground, were three +miserable fishing huts. These constituted the village. Upon arrival, no +one was to be found: the natives had deserted. A fine tract of broken +grassland formed a kind of amphitheatre beneath the range of cliffs. +These I scanned with the telescope, but I could trace no signs of man. +We were evidently deserted by our boatmen, and the natives had +accompanied them to avoid being pressed into our service. + +On my return to the canoes with this intelligence, my men were quite in +despair: they could not believe that the boatmen had really absconded, +and they begged me to allow them to search the country in the hope of +finding another village. Strictly forbidding any man to absent himself +from the boats, I congratulated ourselves on having well guarded the +paddles, which there was no doubt would have been stolen by the boatmen +had I allowed them to remain in their possession. I agreed to wait until +3 P.M. Should the boatmen not return by that hour, I intended to proceed +without them. There was no dependence to be placed upon these +contradictory natives. Kindness was entirely thrown away upon them. We +had Kamrasi's orders for boats and men, but in this distant frontier the +natives did not appear to attach much importance to their king: +nevertheless, we were dependent upon them. Every hour was valuable, as +our only chance of reaching Gondokoro in time for the boats depended +upon rapidity of travelling. At the moment when I wished to press +forward, delays occurred that were most trying. + +Three P.M. arrived, but no signs of natives. "Jump into the boats, my +lads!" I cried to my men; "I know the route." The canoes were pushed +from the shore, and my people manned the paddles. Five of my men were +professional boatmen, but no one understood the management of paddles +except myself. It was in vain that I attempted to instruct my crew. Pull +they certainly did; but--ye gods who watch over boats!--round and +round we pirouetted, the two canoes waltzing and polking together in +their great ball-room, the Albert N'yanza. The voyage would have lasted +ad infinitum. After three hours' exertion, we reached a point of rock +that stretched as a promontory into the lake. This bluff point was +covered with thick jungle to the summit, and at the base was a small +plot of sandy beach, from which there was no exit except by water, as +the cliff descended sheer to the lake upon either side. It poured with +rain, and with much difficulty we lighted a fire. Mosquitoes were in +clouds, and the night was so warm that it was impossible to sleep +beneath the blankets. Arranging the angareps upon the sand, with the raw +oxhides as coverlets, we lay down in the rain. It was too hot to sleep +in the boat, especially as the temporary cabin was a perfect mosquito +nest. That night I considered the best plan to be adopted, and resolved +to adapt a paddle as a rudder on the following morning. It rained +without ceasing the whole night; and, at break of day, the scene was +sufficiently miserable. The men lay on the wet sand, covered up with +their raw hides, soaked completely through, but still fast asleep, from +which nothing would arouse them. My wife was also wet and wretched. It +still rained. I was soon at work. + +Cutting a thwart in the stern of the canoe with my hunting-knife, I +bored a hole beneath it with the large auger, and securely lashed a +paddle with a thong of raw hide that I cut off my well-saturated +coverlet. I made a most effective rudder. None of my men had assisted +me; they had remained beneath their soaked skins, smoking their short +pipes, while I was hard at work. They were perfectly apathetic with +despair, as their ridiculous efforts at paddling on the previous evening +had completely extinguished all hope within them. They were quite +resigned to their destiny, and considered themselves as sacrificed to +geography. + +I threw them the auger, and explained that I was ready to start, and +should wait for no one; and, cutting two bamboos, I arranged a mast and +yard, upon which I fitted a large Scotch plaid for a sail. We shoved off +the boat; fortunately we had two or three spare paddles, therefore the +rudder paddle was not missed. I took the helm, and instructed my men to +think of nothing but pulling hard. Away we went as straight as an arrow, +to the intense delight of my people. There was very little wind, but a +light air filled the plaid and eased us gently forward. + +Upon rounding the promontory we found ourselves in a large bay, the +opposite headland being visible at about eight or ten miles' distance. +Should we coast the bay it would occupy two days. There was another +small promontory farther in shore; I therefore resolved to steer direct +for that point before venturing in a straight line from one headland to +the other. + +Upon looking behind me, I observed our canoe consort about a mile +astern, amusing herself with pointing to all parts of the compass--the +lazy men not having taken the trouble to adapt the rudder as I had +ordered them. + +We travelled at about four miles an hour, and my people were so elated +that they declared themselves ready to row, without assistance, to the +Nile junction. The water was perfectly calm, and upon rounding the next +promontory I was rejoiced to see a village in a snug little bay, and a +great number of canoes drawn up on the sandy beach, and others engaged +in fishing. A number of natives were standing on the sand close to the +water's edge, about half a mile from us, and I steered directly towards +them. Upon our close approach, they immediately sat down, and held up +their paddles above their heads; this was an unmistakeable sign that +they intended to volunteer as boatmen, and I steered the boat upon the +beach. No sooner had we grounded, than they rushed into the water and +boarded us, most good-humouredly pulling down our mast and sail, which +appeared to them highly absurd (as they never use sails); and they +explained that they had seen on the other side the headland that we were +strangers, and their chief had ordered them to assist us. I now begged +them to send six men to the assistance of the lagging canoe; this they +promised to do, and, after waiting for some time, we started at a +rattling pace to pull across the wide bay from point to point. + +When in the centre of the bay we were about four miles from land. At +this time a swell set in from the southwest. While at Vacovia I had +observed, that although the mornings were calm, a strong wind generally +arose at 1 P.M. from S.W. that brought a heavy sea upon the beach. I was +now afraid that we should be subject to a gale before we could reach the +opposite headland, as the rising swell betokened wind from the old +quarter, especially as dark thunderclouds were gathering on the western +shore. + +I told Bacheeta to urge the rowers forward, as our heavy canoe would +certainly be swamped in the event of a gale. I looked at my watch: it +was past noon, and I felt sure that we should catch a south-wester by +about one o'clock. My men looked rather green at the ominous black +clouds and the increasing swell, but exclaimed, "Inshallah, there will +be no wind." With due deference to their faith in predestination, I +insisted upon their working the spare paddles, as our safety depended +upon reaching the shore before the approaching storm. They had learnt to +believe in my opinion, and they exerted themselves to their utmost. The +old boat rushed through the water, but the surface of the lake was +rapidly changing; the western shore was no longer visible, the water was +dark, and innumerable white crests tipped the waves. The canoe laboured +heavily, and occasionally shipped water, which was immediately baled out +with gourd shells by my men, who now exclaimed, "Wah Illahi el kalam +betar el Hawaga sahhe!" (By Allah, what the Hawaga says is true!) We +were within about a mile and a half of the point for which we had been +steering, when we could no longer keep our course; we had shipped +several heavy seas, and had we not been well supplied with utensils for +baling, we should have been swamped. Several bursts of thunder and vivid +lightning were followed by a tremendous gale from about the W.S.W. +before which we were obliged to run for the shore. + +In a short space of time a most dangerous sea arose, and on several +occasions the waves broke against the arched covering of the canoe, +which happily protected her in a slight degree, although we were +drenched with water. + +Every one was at work baling with all their might; I had no idea that +the canoe could live. Down came the rain in torrents, swept along with a +terrific wind; nothing was discernible except the high cliffs looming +through the storm, and I only trusted that we might arrive upon a sandy +beach, and not upon bluff rocks. We went along at a grand rate, as the +arched cover of the canoe acted somewhat as a sail; and it was an +exciting moment when we at length neared the shore, and approached the +foaming breakers that were rolling wildly upon (happily) a sandy beach +beneath the cliffs. I told my men to be ready to jump out the moment +that we should touch the sand, and to secure the canoe by hauling the +head up the beach. All were ready, and we rushed through the surf, the +native boatmen paddling like steam engines. "Here comes a wave; look +out!" and just as we almost touched the beach, a heavy breaker broke +over the black women who were sitting in the stern, and swamped the +boat. My men jumped into the water like ducks, and the next moment we +were all rolled in confusion on the sandy shore. The men stuck well to +the boat, and hauled her firmly on the sand, while my wife crawled out +of her primitive cabin like a caddis worm from its nest, half drowned, +and jumped upon the shore. "El hamd el Illah!" (thank God!) we all +exclaimed; "now for a pull--all together!" and having so far secured +the boat that she could not be washed away, I ordered the men to +discharge the cargo, and then to pull her out of the lake. Everything +was destroyed except the gunpowder; that was all in canisters. But where +was the other canoe? I made up my mind that it must be lost, for +although much longer than our boat, it was lower in the water. After +some time and much anxiety, we perceived it running for the shore about +half a mile in our rear; it was in the midst of the breakers, and +several times I lost sight of it; but the old tree behaved well, and +brought the crew safe to the shore. + +Fortunately there was a village not far from the spot where we landed, +and we took possession of a hut, lighted a good fire, and wrapped +ourselves in Scotch plaids and blankets wrung out, while our clothes +were being dried, as there was not a dry rag in our possession. + +We could procure nothing to eat, except a few dried fish that, not +having been salted, were rather high flavoured. Our fowls, and also two +pet quails, were drowned in the boat during the storm; however, the +drowned fowls were made into a stew, and with a blazing fire, and clean +straw to sleep upon, the night's rest was perhaps as perfect as in the +luxury of home. + +On the following morning we were detained by bad weather, as a heavy sea +was still running, and we were determined not to risk our canoes in +another gale. It was a beautiful neighbourhood, enlivened by a +magnificent waterfall that fell about a thousand feet from the +mountains, as the Kaiigiri river emptied itself into the lake in a +splendid volume of water. This river rises in the great marsh that we +had crossed on our way from M'rooli to Vacovia. In this neighbourhood we +gathered some mushrooms--the true Agaricus campestras of Europe-- +which were a great luxury. + +In the afternoon the sea subsided, and we again started. We had not +proceeded above three miles from the village, when I observed an +elephant bathing in the lake; he was in water so deep, that he stood +with only the top of his head and trunk above the surface. As we +approached, he sunk entirely, only the tip of his trunk remaining above +the water. I ordered the boatmen to put the canoe as close to him as +possible, and we passed within thirty yards, just as he raised his head +from his luxurious bath. + +I was sorely tempted to fire, but remembering my resolve, refrained from +disturbing him, and he slowly quitted the lake, and entered the thick +jungle. A short distance beyond this spot two large crocodiles were +lying upon the beach asleep; but upon the approach of the canoe they +plunged into the water, and raised their heads above the surface at +about twenty-five paces. I was uncertain about my Fletcher rifle, as it +had been exposed to so much wet; therefore, to discharge it, I took a +shot at the nearest crocodile just behind the eye. The little rifle was +in perfect order--thanks to Eley's "double waterproof central +firecaps," which will resist all weathers--and the bullet striking the +exact spot, the great reptile gave a convulsive lash with his tail, and +turning on his back, with his paws above the water, he gradually sunk. +The native boatmen were dreadfully frightened at the report of the +rifle, to the great amusement of their countrywoman, Bacheeta, and it +was with difficulty that I persuaded them to direct the canoe to the +exact spot. Being close to the shore, the water was not more than eight +feet deep, and so beautifully clear, that I could, when just above the +crocodile, perceive it lying at the bottom on its belly, and distinguish +the bloody head that had been shattered by the bullet. While one of my +men prepared a slip-knot, I took a long lance that belonged to a +boatman, and drove it deep through the tough scales into the back of the +neck; hauling gently, upon the lance I raised the head near to the +surface, and slipping the noose over it, the crocodile was secured. It +appeared to be quite dead, and the flesh would be a bonne-bouche for my +men; therefore we towed it to the shore. It was a fine monster, about +sixteen feet long; and although it had appeared dead, it bit furiously +at a thick male bamboo which I ran into its mouth to prevent it from +snapping during the process of decapitation. The natives regarded my men +with disgust as they cut huge lumps of the choicest morsels and stowed +them in the canoes; this did not occupy more than a quarter of an hour, +and hurrying on board, we continued our voyage, well provided with meat +--for all who liked it. To my taste nothing can be more disgusting than +crocodile flesh. I have eaten almost everything; but although I have +tasted crocodile, I could never succeed in swallowing it; the combined +flavour of bad fish, rotten flesh, and musk, is the carte de diner +offered to the epicure. + +That evening we saw an elephant with an enormous pair of tusks; he was +standing on a hill about a quarter of a mile from the boats as we +halted. I was aided to resist this temptation by an attack of fever: it +rained as usual, and no village being in the neighbourhood, we +bivouacked in the rain on the beach in clouds of mosquitoes. + +The discomforts of this lake voyage were great; in the day we were +cramped in our small cabin like two tortoises in one shell, and at night +it almost invariably rained. We were accustomed to the wet, but no +acclimatisation can render the European body mosquito-proof; thus we had +little rest. It was hard work for me, but for my unfortunate wife, who +had hardly recovered from her attack of coup de soleil, such hardships +were most distressing. + +On the following morning the lake was calm, and we started early. The +monotony of the voyage was broken by the presence of several fine herds +of elephants, consisting entirely of bulls. I counted fourteen of these +grand animals, all with large tusks, bathing together in a small shallow +lake beneath the mountains, having a communication with the main lake +through a sandy beach; these elephants were only knee deep, and having +been bathing they were perfectly clean, and their colossal black forms +and large white tusks formed a beautiful picture in the calm lake +beneath the lofty cliffs. It was a scene in harmony with the solitude of +the Nile Sources--the wilderness of rocks and forest, the Blue +Mountains in the distance, and the great fountain of nature adorned with +the mighty beasts of Africa; the elephants in undisturbed grandeur, and +hippopotami disporting their huge forms in the great parent of the +Egyptian river. + +I ordered the boatmen to run the canoe ashore, that we might land and +enjoy the scene. We then discovered seven elephants on the shore within +about two hundred yards of us in high grass, while the main herd of +fourteen splendid bulls bathed majestically in the placid lake, +showering cold streams from their trunks over their backs and shoulders. +There was no time to lose, as every hour was important: quitting the +shore, we once more paddled along the coast. + +Day after day passed, the time occupied in travelling from sunrise to +midday, at which hour a strong gale with rain and thunder occurred +regularly, and obliged us to haul our canoes ashore. The country was +very thinly inhabited, and the villages were poor and wretched; the +people most inhospitable. At length we arrived at a considerable town +situated in a beautiful bay beneath precipitous cliffs, the grassy sides +of which were covered with flocks of goats; this was Eppigoya, and the +boatmen that we had procured from the last village were to deliver us in +this spot. The delays in procuring boatmen were most annoying: it +appeared that the king had sent orders that each village was to supply +the necessary rowers; thus we were paddled from place to place, at each +of which the men were changed, and no amount of payment would induce +them to continue with us to the end of our voyage. + +Landing at Eppigoya, we were at once met by the headman, and I proposed +that he should sell us a few kids, as the idea of a mutton chop was most +appetizing. Far from supplying us with this luxury, the natives +immediately drove their flocks away, and after receiving a large present +of beads, the headman brought us a present of a sick lamb almost at the +point of natural death, and merely skin and bone. Fortunately there were +fowls in thousands, as the natives did not use them for food; these we +purchased for one blue bead (monjoor) each, which in current value was +equal to 250 fowls for a shilling. Eggs were brought in baskets +containing several hundreds, but they were all poultry. + +At Eppigoya the best salt was produced, and we purchased a good +supply--also some dried fish; thus provisioned, we procured boatmen, and +again started on our voyage. + +Hardly had we proceeded two hundred yards, when we were steered direct +to the shore below the town, and our boatmen coolly laid down their +paddles and told us that they had performed their share, and that as +Eppigoya was divided into four parts under separate headmen, each +portion would supply rowers! + +Ridiculous as this appeared, there was no contesting their decision; and +thus we were handed over from one to the other, and delayed for about +three hours in changing boatmen four times within a distance of less +than a mile! The perfect absurdity of such a regulation, combined with +the delay when time was most precious, was trying to the temper. At +every change, the headman accompanied the boatmen to our canoe, and +presented us with three fowls at parting; thus our canoes formed a +floating poultry show as we had already purchased large supplies. Our +live stock bothered us dreadfully; being without baskets, the fowls were +determined upon suicide, and many jumped deliberately overboard, while +others that were tied by the legs were drowned in the bottom of the +leaky canoe. + +After the tenth day from our departure from Vacovia the scenery +increased in beauty. The lake had contracted to about thirty miles in +width, and was decreasing rapidly northward; the trees upon the +mountains upon the western shore could be distinguished. Continuing our +voyage north, the western shore projected suddenly, and diminished the +width of the lake to about twenty miles. It was no longer the great +inland sea that at Vacovia had so impressed me, with the clean pebbly +beach that had hitherto formed the shore, but vast banks of reeds +growing upon floating vegetation prevented the canoes from landing. +These banks were most peculiar, as they appeared to have been formed of +decayed vegetation, from which the papyrus rushes took root; the +thickness of the floating mass was about three feet, and so tough and +firm that a man could walk upon it, merely sinking above his ankles in +the soft ooze. Beneath this raft of vegetation was extremely deep water, +and the shore for a width of about half a mile was entirely protected by +this extraordinary formation. One day a tremendous gale of wind and +heavy sea broke off large portions, and the wind acting upon the rushes +like sails, carried floating islands of some acres about the lake to be +deposited wherever they might chance to hitch. + +On the thirteenth day we found ourselves at the end of our lake voyage. +The lake at this point was between fifteen and twenty miles across, and +the appearance of the country to the north was that of a delta. The +shores upon either side were choked with vast banks of reeds, and as the +canoe skirted the edge of that upon the east coast, we could find no +bottom with a bamboo of twenty-five feet in length, although the +floating mass appeared like terra forma. We were in a perfect wilderness +of vegetation: On the west were mountains of about 4,000 feet above the +lake level, a continuation of the chain that formed the western shore +from the south: these mountains decreased in height towards the north, +in which direction the lake terminated in a broad valley of reeds. + +We were told that we had arrived at Magungo, and that this was the spot +where the boats invariably crossed from Malegga on the western shore to +Kamrasi's country. The boatmen proposed that we should land upon the +floating vegetation, as that would be a short cut to the village or town +of Magungo; but as the swell of the water against the abrupt raft of +reeds threatened to swamp the canoe, I preferred coasting until we +should discover a good landing place. After skirting the floating reeds +for about a mile, we turned sharp to the east, and entered a broad +channel of water bounded on either side by the everlasting reeds. This +we were informed was the embouchure of the Somerset river from the +Victoria N'yanza. The same river that we had crossed at Karuma, boiling +and tearing along its rocky course, now entered the Albert N'yanza as +dead water! I could not understand this; there was not the slightest +current; the channel was about half a mile wide, and I could hardly +convince myself that this was not an arm of the lake branching to the +east. After searching for some time for a landing place among the +wonderful banks of reeds, we discovered a passage that had evidently +been used as an approach by canoes, but so narrow that our large canoe +could with difficulty be dragged through--all the men walking through +the mud and reeds, and towing with their utmost strength. Several +hundred paces of this tedious work brought us through the rushes into +open water, about eight feet deep, opposite to a clean rocky shore. We +had heard voices for some time while obscured on the other side of the +rushes, and we now found a number of natives, who had arrived to meet +us, with the chief of Magungo and our guide Rabonga, whom we had sent in +advance with the riding oxen from Vacovia. The water was extremely +shallow near the shore, and the natives rushed in and dragged the canoes +by sheer force over the mud to the land. We had been so entirely hidden +while on the lake on the other side of the reed bank that we had been +unable to see the eastern, or Magungo shore; we now found ourselves in a +delightful spot beneath the shade of several enormous trees on firm +sandy and rocky ground, while the country rose in a rapid incline to the +town of Magungo, about a mile distant, on an elevated ridge. + +My first question was concerning the riding oxen. They were reported in +good order. We were invited to wait under a tree until the presents from +the headmen should be delivered. Accordingly, while my wife sat under +the shade, I went to the waterside to examine the fishing arrangements +of the natives, that were on an extensive scale. For many hundred feet, +the edges of the floating reeds were arranged to prevent the possibility +of a large fish entering the open water adjoining the shore without +being trapped. A regular system of baskets were fixed at intervals, with +guiding fences to their mouths. Each basket was about six feet in +diameter, and the mouth about eighteen inches; thus the arrangements +were for the monsters of the lake, the large bones of which, strewed +about the vicinity, were a witness of their size. My men had just +secured the half of a splendid fish, known in the Nile as the "baggera." +They had found it in the water, the other portion having been bitten off +by a crocodile. The piece in their possession weighed about fifty +pounds. This is one of the best fish in the lake. It is shaped like the +perch, but is coloured externally like the salmon. I also obtained from +the natives an exceedingly good fish, of a peculiar form, having four +long feelers at the positions that would be occupied by the limbs of +reptiles; these looked like rudiments of legs. It had somewhat the +appearance of an eel; but, being oviparous, it can have no connexion +with that genus. The natives had a most killing way of fishing with the +hook and line for heavy fish. They arranged rows of tall bamboos, the +ends stuck firmly in the bottom, in a depth of about six feet of water, +and about five or ten yards apart. On the top of each was a lump of +ambatch-wood about ten inches in diameter. Around this was wound a +powerful line, and, a small hole being made in this float, it was +lightly fixed upon the point of the bamboo, or fishing rod. The line was +securely attached to the bamboo, then wound round the large float, while +the hook, baited with a live fish, was thrown to some distance beyond. +Long rows of these fixed rods were set every morning by natives in +canoes, and watchers attended them during the day, while they took their +chance by night. When a large fish took the bait, his first rush +unhitched the ambatch-float from the point of the bamboo, which, +revolving upon the water, paid out line as required. When entirely run +out, the great size and buoyancy of the float served to check and to +exhaust the fish. There are several varieties of fish that exceed 200 +lbs. weight. + +A number of people now arrived from the village, bringing a goat, fowls, +eggs, and sour milk, and, beyond all luxuries, fresh butter. I delighted +the chief, in return for his civility, by giving him a quantity of +beads, and we were led up the hill towards Magungo. + +The day was beautifully clear. The soil was sandy and poor, therefore +the road was clean and hard; and, after the many days' boating, we +enjoyed the walk, and the splendid view that lay before us when we +arrived at Magungo, and looked back upon the lake. We were about 250 +feet above the water level. There were no longer the abrupt cliffs, +descending to the lake, that we had seen in the south, but the general +level of the country appeared to be about 500 feet above the water, at a +distance of five or six miles, from which point the ground descended in +undulations, Magungo being situated on the summit of the nearest +incline. The mountains on the Malegga side, with the lake in the +foreground, were the most prominent objects, forming the western +boundary. A few miles north there appeared to be a gap in the range, and +the lake continued to the west, but much contracted, while the mountain +range on the northern side of the gap continued to the northeast. Due +north and northeast the country was a dead flat, and far as the eye +could reach was an extent of bright green reeds, marking the course of +the Nile as it made its exit from the lake. The sheet of water at +Magungo being about seventeen miles in width, ended in a long strip or +tail to the north, until it was lost in the flat valley of green rushes. +This valley may have been from four to six miles wide, and was bounded +upon its west bank by the continuation of the chain of mountains that +had formed the western boundary of the lake. The natives told me that +canoes could navigate the Nile in its course from the lake to the Madi +country, as there were no cataracts for a great distance, but that both +the Madi and the Koshi were hostile, and that the current of the river +was so strong, that should the canoe descend from the lake, it could not +return without many rowers. They pointed out the country of Koshi on the +west bank of the Nile, at its exit from the lake, which included the +mountains that bordered the river. The small country, M'Caroli, joined +Malegga, and continued to the west, towards the Makkarika. The natives +most positively refused to take me down the Nile from the lake into the +Madi, as they said that they would be killed by the people, who were +their enemies, as I should not be with them on their return up the +river. + +The exit of the Nile from the lake was plain enough, and if the broad +channel of dead water were indeed the entrance of the Victoria Nile +(Somerset), the information obtained by Speke would be remarkably +confirmed. Up to the present time all the information that I had +received from Kamrasi and his people had been correct. He had told me +that I should be about twenty days from M'rooli to the lake; I had been +eighteen. He had also told me that the Somerset flowed from Karuma +direct to the lake, and that, having joined it, the great Nile issued +from the lake almost immediately, and flowed through the Koshi and Madi +tribes. I now saw the river issuing from the lake within eighteen miles +of Magungo; and the Koshi and the Madi countries appeared close to me, +bordering it on the west and east. Kamrasi being the king, it was +natural that he should know his own frontier most intimately; but, +although the chief of Magungo and all the natives assured me that the +broad channel of dead water at my feet was positively the brawling river +that I had crossed below the Karuma Falls, I could not understand how so +fine a body of water as that had appeared could possibly enter the +Albert lake as dead water. The guide and natives laughed at my unbelief, +and declared that it was dead water for a considerable distance from the +junction with the lake, but that a great waterfall rushed down from a +mountain, and that beyond that fall the river was merely a succession of +cataracts throughout the entire distance of about six days' march to +Karuma Falls. My real wish was to descend the Nile in canoes from its +exit from the lake with my own men as boatmen, and thus in a short time +to reach the cataracts in the Madi country; there to forsake the canoes +and all my baggage, and to march direct to Gondokoro with only our guns +and ammunition. I knew from native report that the Nile was navigable as +far as the Madi country to about Miani's tree, which Speke had laid down +by astronomical observation in lat. 3 degrees 34 minutes; this would be +only seven days' march from Gondokoro, and by such a direct course I +should be sure to arrive in time for the boats to Khartoum. I had +promised Speke that I would explore most thoroughly the doubtful portion +of the river that he had been forced to neglect from Karuma Falls to the +lake. I was myself confused at the dead water junction; and, although I +knew that the natives must be right--as it was their own river, and +they had no inducement to mislead me--I was determined to sacrifice +every other wish in order to fulfil my promise, and thus to settle the +Nile question most absolutely. That the Nile flowed out of the lake I +had heard, and I had also confirmed by actual inspection; from Magungo I +looked upon the two countries, Koshi and Madi, through which it flowed, +and these countries I must actually pass through and again meet the Nile +before I could reach Gondokoro. Thus the only point necessary to swear +to, was the river between the lake and the Karuma Falls. + +I had a bad attack of fever that evening, and missed my star for the +latitude; but on the following morning before daybreak I obtained a good +observation of Vega, and determined the latitude of Magungo 2 degrees 16 +minutes due west from Atada or Karuma Falls. This was a strong +confirmation that the river beneath my feet was the Somerset that I had +crossed in the same latitude at Atada, where the river was running due +west, and where the natives had pointed in that direction as its course +to the lake. Nevertheless, I was determined to verify it, although by +this circuitous route I might lose the boats from Gondokoro and become a +prisoner in Central Africa, ill, and without quinine, for another year. +I proposed it to my wife, who not only voted in her state of abject +weakness to complete the river to Karuma, but wished, if possible, to +return and follow the Nile from the lake down to Gondokoro! This latter +resolve, based upon the simple principle of "seeing is believing," was a +sacrifice most nobly proposed, but simply impossible and unnecessary. + +We saw from our point at Magungo the Koshi and Madi countries, and the +Nile flowing out of the lake through them. We must of necessity pass +through those countries on our road to Gondokoro direct from Karuma via +Shooa, and should we not meet the river in the Madi and Koshi country, +the Nile that we now saw would not be the Nile of Gondokoro. We knew, +however, that it was so, as Speke and Grant had gone by that route, and +had met the Nile near Miani's tree in lat. 3 degrees 34 min. in the Madi +country, the Koshi being on its western bank; thus, as we were now at +the Nile head and saw it passing through the Madi and Koshi, any +argument against the river would be the argumentum ad absurdum. I +ordered the boats to be got ready to start immediately. + +The chief gave me much information, confirming the accounts that I had +heard a year previous in the Latooka countries, that formerly cowrie +shells were brought in boats from the south, and that these shells and +brass coil brackets came by the lake from Karagwe. He called also +several of the natives of Malegga, who had arrived with beautifully +prepared mantles of antelope and goatskins, to exchange for bracelets +and glass beads. The Malegga people were in appearance the same as those +of Unyoro, but they spoke a different language. + +The boats being ready, we took leave of the chief, leaving him an +acceptable present of beads, and we descended the hill to the river, +thankful at having so far successfully terminated the expedition as to +have traced the lake to that important point Magungo, which had been our +clue to the discovery even so far away in time and place as the distant +country of Latooka. We were both very weak and ill, and my knees +trembled beneath me as we walked down the easy descent. I, in my +enervated state, endeavouring to assist my wife, we were the "blind +leading the blind;" but had life closed on that day we could have died +most happily, for the hard fight through sickness and misery had ended +in victory; and, although I looked to home as a paradise never to be +regained, I could have lain down to sleep in contentment on this spot, +with the consolation that, if the body had been vanquished, we died with +the prize in our grasp. + +On arrival at the canoes we found everything in readiness, and the +boatmen already in their places. A crowd of natives pushed us over the +shallows, and once in deep water we passed through a broad canal which +led us into the open channel without the labour of towing through the +narrow inlet by which we had arrived. Once in the broad channel of dead +water we steered due east, and made rapid way until the evening. The +river as it now appeared, although devoid of current, was an average of +about 500 yards in width. Before we halted for the night I was subjected +to a most severe attack of fever, and upon the boat reaching a certain +spot I was carried on a litter, perfectly unconscious, to a village, +attended carefully by my poor sick wife, who, herself half dead, +followed me on foot through the marshes in pitch darkness, and watched +over me until the morning. At daybreak I was too weak to stand, and we +were both carried down to the canoes, and, crawling helplessly within +our grass awning, we lay down like logs while the canoes continued their +voyage. Many of our men were also suffering from fever. The malaria of +the dense masses of floating vegetation was most poisonous; and upon +looking back to the canoe that followed in our wake, I observed all my +men sitting crouched together sick and dispirited, looking like departed +spirits being ferried across the melancholy Styx. The river now +contracted rapidly to about 250 yards in width about ten miles from +Magungo. We had left the vast flats of rush banks, and entered a channel +between high ground, forming steep forest-covered hills, about 200 feet +on either side, north and south: nevertheless there was no perceptible +stream, although there was no doubt that we were actually in the channel +of a river. The water was clear and exceedingly deep. In the evening we +halted, and slept on a mud bank close to the water. The grass in the +forest was very high and rank; thus we were glad to find an open space +for a bivouac, although a nest of mosquitoes and malaria. + +On waking the next morning, I observed that a thick fog covered the +surface of the river; and as I lay upon my back, on my angarep, I amused +myself before I woke my men by watching the fog slowly lifting from the +river. While thus employed I was struck by the fact, that the little +green water-plants, like floating cabbages (Pistia Stratiotes, L.), were +certainly, although very slowly, moving to the west. I immediately +jumped up, and watched them most attentively; there was no doubt about +it; they were travelling towards the Albert lake. We were now about +eighteen miles in a direct line from Magungo, and there was a current in +the river, which, however slight, was nevertheless perceptible. + +Our toilette did not take long to arrange, as we had thrown ourselves +down at night with our clothes on; accordingly we entered the canoe at +once, and gave the order to start. + +The woman Bacheeta knew the country, as she had formerly been to Magungo +when in the service of Sali, who had been subsequently murdered by +Kamrasi; she now informed me that we should terminate our canoe voyage +on that day, as we should arrive at the great waterfall of which she had +often spoken. As we proceeded the river gradually narrowed to about 180 +yards, and when the paddles ceased working we could distinctly hear the +roar of water. I had heard this on waking in the morning, but at the +time I had imagined it to proceed from distant thunder. By ten o'clock +the current had so increased as we proceeded, that it was distinctly +perceptible, although weak. The roar of the waterfall was extremely +loud, and after sharp pulling for a couple of hours, during which time +the stream increased, we arrived at a few deserted fishing huts, at a +point where the river made a slight turn. I never saw such an +extraordinary show of crocodiles as were exposed on every sandbank on +the sides of the river; they lay like logs of timber close together, and +upon one bank we counted twenty-seven, of large size; every basking +place was crowded in a similar manner. From the time we had fairly +entered the river, it had been confined by heights somewhat precipitous +on either side, rising to about 180 feet. At this point the cliffs were +still higher, and exceedingly abrupt. From the roar of the water, I was +sure that the fall would be in sight if we turned the corner at the bend +of the river; accordingly I ordered the boatmen to row as far as they +could: to this they at first objected, as they wished to stop at the +deserted fishing village, which they explained was to be the limit of +the journey, farther progress being impossible. + +However, I explained that I merely wished to see the fall, and they +rowed immediately up the stream, which was now strong against us. Upon +rounding the corner, a magnificent sight burst suddenly upon us. On +either side the river were beautifully wooded cliffs rising abruptly to +a height of about 300 feet; rocks were jutting out from the intensely +green foliage; and rushing through a gap that cleft the rock exactly +before us, the river, contracted from a grand stream, was pent up in a +narrow gorge of scarcely fifty yards in width; roaring furiously through +the rock-bound pass, it plunged in one leap of about 120 feet +perpendicular into a dark abyss below. + +The fall of water was snow white, which had a superb effect as it +contrasted with the dark cliffs that walled the river, while the +graceful palms of the tropics and wild plantains perfected the beauty of +the view. This was the greatest waterfall of the Nile, and, in honour of +the distinguished President of the Royal Geographical Society, I named +it the Murchison Falls, as the most important object throughout the +entire course of the river. + +The boatmen, having been promised a present of beads to induce them to +approach the fall as close as possible, succeeded in bringing the canoe +within about 300 yards of the base, but the power of the current and the +whirlpools in the river rendered it impossible to proceed farther. There +was a sandbank on our left which was literally covered with crocodiles +lying parallel to each other like trunks of trees prepared for shipment; +they had no fear of the canoe until we approached within about twenty +yards of them, when they slowly crept into the water; all excepting one, +an immense fellow who lazily lagged behind, and immediately dropped dead +as a bullet from the little Fletcher No. 24 struck him in the brain. So +alarmed were the boatmen at the unexpected report of the rifle that they +immediately dropped into the body of the canoe, one of them losing his +paddle. Nothing would induce them to attend to the boat, as I had fired +a second shot at the crocodile as a "quietus," and the natives did not +know how often the alarming noise would be repeated. Accordingly we were +at the mercy of the powerful stream, and the canoe was whisked round by +the eddy and carried against a thick bank of high reeds;--hardly had +we touched this obstruction when a tremendous commotion took place in +the rushes, and in an instant a great bull hippopotamus charged the +canoe, and with a severe shock striking the bottom he lifted us half out +of the water. The natives who were in the bottom of the boat positively +yelled with terror, not knowing whether the shock was in any way +connected with the dreaded report of the rifle; the black women +screamed; and the boy Saat handing me a spare rifle, and Richarn being +ready likewise, we looked out for a shot should the angry hippo again +attack us. + +A few kicks bestowed by my angry men upon the recumbent boatmen restored +them to the perpendicular. The first thing necessary was to hunt for the +lost paddle that was floating down the rapid current. The hippopotamus, +proud of having disturbed us, but doubtless thinking us rather hard of +texture, raised his head to take a last view of his enemy, but sank too +rapidly to permit a shot. Crocodile heads of enormous size were on all +sides, appearing and vanishing rapidly as they rose to survey us; at one +time we counted eighteen upon the surface. Fine fun it would have been +for these monsters had the bull hippo been successful in his attempt to +capsize us; the fat black woman, Karka, would have been a dainty morsel. +Having recovered the lost paddle, I prevailed upon the boatmen to keep +the canoe steady while I made a sketch of the Murchison Falls, which +being completed, we drifted rapidly down to the landing place at the +deserted fishing village, and bade adieu to the navigation of the lake +and river of Central Africa. + +The few huts that existed in this spot were mere ruins. Clouds had +portended rain, and down it came, as it usually did once in every +twenty-four hours. However, that passed away by the next morning, and +the day broke discovering us about as wet and wretched as we were +accustomed to be. I now started off four of my men with the boatmen and +the interpreter Bacheeta to the nearest village, to inquire whether our +guide Rabonga had arrived with our riding oxen, as our future travelling +was to be on land, and the limit of our navigation must have been well +known to him. After some hours the people returned, minus the boatmen, +with a message from the headman of a village they had visited, that the +oxen were there, but not the guide Rabonga, who had remained at Magungo, +but that the animals should be brought to us that evening, together with +porters to convey the luggage. In the evening a number of people +arrived, bringing some plantain cider and plantains as a present from +the headman; and promising that, upon the following morning, we should +be conducted to his village. + +The next day we started, but not until the afternoon, as we had to await +the arrival of the headman, who was to escort us. Our oxen were brought, +and if we looked wretched, the animals were a match. They had been +bitten by the fly, thousands of which were at this spot. Their coats +were staring, ears drooping, noses running, and heads hanging down; all +the symptoms of fly-bite, together with extreme looseness of the bowels. +I saw that it was all up with our animals. Weak as I was myself, I was +obliged to walk, as my ox could not carry me up the steep inclination, +and I toiled languidly to the summit of the cliff. It poured with rain. +Upon arrival at the summit we were in precisely the same parklike land +that characterises Chopi and Unyoro, but the grass was about seven feet +high; and from the constant rain, and the extreme fertility of the soil, +the country was choked with vegetation. We were now above the Murchison +Falls, and we heard the roaring of the water beneath us to our left. We +continued our route parallel to the river above the Falls, steering +east; and a little before evening we arrived at a small village +belonging to the headman who accompanied us. I was chilled and wet; my +wife had fortunately been carried on her litter, which was protected by +a hide roofing. Feverish and exhausted, I procured from the natives some +good acid plums, and refreshed by these I was able to boil my +thermometer and take the altitude. + +On the following morning we started, the route as before parallel to the +river, and so close that the roar of the rapids was extremely loud. The +river flowed in a deep ravine upon our left. We continued for a day's +march along the Somerset, crossing many ravines and torrents, until we +turned suddenly down to the left, and arriving at the bank we were to be +transported to an island called Patooan, that was the residence of a +chief. It was about an hour after sunset, and being dark, my riding ox, +who was being driven as too weak to carry me, fell into an elephant +pitfall. After much hallooing, a canoe was brought from the island, +which was not more than fifty yards from the mainland, and we were +ferried across. We were both very ill with a sudden attack of fever; and +my wife, not being able to stand, was, on arrival at the island, carried +on a litter I knew not whither, escorted by some of my men, while I lay +down on the wet ground quite exhausted with the annihilating disease. At +length the remainder of my men crossed over, and those who had carried +my wife to the village returning with firebrands, I managed to creep +after them with the aid of a long stick, upon which I rested with both +hands. After a walk, through a forest of high trees, for about a quarter +of a mile, I arrived at a village where I was shown a wretched hut, the +stars being visible through the roof. In this my wife lay dreadfully ill +upon her angarep, and I fell down upon some straw. About an hour later, +a violent thunderstorm broke over us, and our hut was perfectly flooded; +we, being far too ill and helpless to move from our positions, remained +dripping wet and shivering with fever until the morning. Our servants +and people had, like all natives, made themselves much more comfortable +than their employers; nor did they attempt to interfere with our misery +in any way until summoned to appear at sunrise. + +The island of Patooan was about half a mile long by 150 yards wide, and +was one of the numerous masses of rocks that choke the river between +Karuma Falls and the great Murchison cataract. The rock was entirely of +grey granite, from the clefts of which beautiful forest trees grew so +thickly that the entire island was in shade. In the middle of this +secluded spot was a considerable village, thickly inhabited, as the +population of the mainland had fled from their dwellings and had taken +refuge upon the numerous river islands, as the war was raging between +Rionga and Kamrasi. A succession of islands from the east of Patooan +continued to within a march of Karuma Falls. These were in the +possession of Rionga, and a still more powerful chief and ally, Fowooka, +who were the deadly enemies of Kamrasi. + +It now appeared that after my departure from M'rooli to search for the +lake, Ibrahim had been instructed by Kamrasi to accompany his army, and +attack Fowooka. This had been effected, but the attack had been confined +to a bombardment by musketry from the high cliffs of the river upon the +people confined upon one of the islands. A number of men had been +killed, and Ibrahim had returned to Gondokoro with a quantity of ivory +and porters supplied by Kamrasi; but he had left ten of his armed men as +hostages with the king, to act as his guard until he should return on +the following year to Unyoro. Ibrahim and his strong party having +quitted the country, Fowooka had invaded the mainland of Chopi, and had +burnt and destroyed all the villages, and killed many people, including +a powerful chief of Kamrasi's, the father of the headman of the island +of Patooan where we were now staying. Accordingly the fugitives from the +destroyed villages had taken refuge upon the island of Patooan, and +others of the same character. The headman informed us that it would be +impossible to proceed along the bank of the river to Karuma, as that +entire line of country was in possession of the enemy. This was +sufficient to assure me that I should not procure porters. + +There was no end to the difficulties and trouble in this horrible +country. My exploration was completed, as it was by no means necessary +to continue the route from Patooan to Karuma. I had followed the +Somerset from its junction with the lake at Magungo to this point; here +it was a beautiful river, precisely similar in character to the point at +which I had left it at Karuma: we were now within thirty miles of that +place, and about eighteen miles from the point opposite Rionga's island, +where we had first hit upon the river on our arrival from the north. The +direction was perfectly in accordance with my observations at Karuma, +and at Magungo, the Somerset running from east to west. The river was +about 180 to 200 yards in width, but much obstructed with rocks and +islands; the stream ran at about four miles per hour, and the rapids and +falls were so numerous that the roar of water had been continuous +throughout our march from Murchison Falls. By observations of Casella's +thermometer I made the altitude of the river level at the island of +Patooan 3,195 feet; thus from this point to the level of the Albert lake +at Magungo there was a fall of 475 feet--this difference being included +between Patooan and the foot of Murchison Falls: the latter, being at +the lowest estimate 120 feet, left 355 feet to be accounted for between +Patooan and the top of the falls. As the ledges of rock throughout the +course of the river formed a series of steps, this was a natural +difference in altitude that suggested the correctness of the +observations. + +At the river level below Karuma Falls I had measured the altitude at +3,996 feet above the sea level. Thus, there was a fall from that point +to Patooan of 801 feet, and a total of 1,276 feet in the descent of the +river from Karuma to the Albert N'yanza. These measurements, most +carefully taken, corroborated the opinion suggested by the natural +appearance of the river, which was a mere succession of cataracts +throughout its westerly course from Karuma. + +To me these observations were more than usually interesting, as when I +had met my friend Speke at Gondokoro he was much perplexed concerning +the extraordinary difference in his observation between the altitude of +the river level at Karuma Falls, lat. 2 degrees 15', and at Gebel Kookoo +in the Madi country, lat. 3 degrees 34', the point at which he +subsequently met the river. He KNEW that both rivers were the Nile, as +he bad been told this by the natives; the one, before it had joined the +Albert lake--the other, after its exit; but he had been told that the +river was NAVIGABLE from Gebel Kookoo, lat. 3 degrees 34', straight up +to the junction of the lake; thus, there could be no great difference in +altitude between the lake and the Nile where he met it, in lat. 3 +degrees 34'. Nevertheless, he found so enormous a difference in his +observations between the river at Karuma and at Gebel Kookoo, that he +concluded there must be a fall between Karuma and the Albert lake of at +least 1,000 feet; by careful measurements I proved the closeness of his +reasoning and observation, by finding a fall of only 275 feet more than +he had anticipated. From Karuma to the Albert lake (although unvisited +by Speke), he had marked upon his map, "river falls 1,000 feet;" by +actual measurement I proved it to be 1,275 feet. + +The altitudes measured by me have been examined, and the thermometer +that I used had been tested at Kew, and its errors corrected since my +return to England; thus all altitudes observed with that thermometer +should be correct, as the results, after correction by Mr. Dunkin, of +the Greenwich Royal Observatory, are those now quoted. It will therefore +be interesting to compare the observations taken at the various points +on the Nile and Albert lake in the countries of Unyoro and Chopi--the +correctness of which relatively will be seen by comparison:-- + +1861. + Jan. 22. Rionga's island, 80 feet above the Nile . . . 3,864 + Jan. 25. Karuma, below the falls, river level Atadaj. . 3,996 + Jan. 31. South of Karuma, river level on road to M'rooli 4,056 + + +1864. + Feb. 21. M'rooli lat. 1 degree 38' river level . . . . . . 4,061Ft. + Mar. 14. Albert N'yanza, lake level . . . . . . . . . . . 2,720Ft. + April 7. Island of Patooan (Shooa Moru) river level. . . . 3,195Ft. + +By these observations it will be seen that from M'rooli, in lat. 1 +degree 38' to Karuma in lat. 2 degree 15', there is a fall of sixty- +five feet; say MINUS five feet, for the Karuma Falls equals sixty feet +fall in 37' of latitude; or allowing for the great bend of the river, +twenty miles of extra course, it will be equal to about sixty statute +miles of actual river from M'rooli to Atada or Karuma Falls, showing a +fall or one foot per mile. From M'rooli to the head of the Karuma Falls +the river is navigable; thus the observations of altitudes showing a +fall of one foot per mile must be extremely accurate. + +The next observations to be compared are those from Karuma Falls +throughout the westerly course of the river to the Albert lake:-- + + River level below Karuma Falls . . . . . . . . 3,996 feet + Rionga's island 3,864--80 feet cliff . . . . . 3,784 + = 212 fall. to the west. + River level at island of Patooan (Shooa Moru). 3,195 + = 589 fall. from Rionga's island. + Level of Albert lake . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2,720 + = 475 fall. from Patooan to lake. + From Karuma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1,276 fall. + +These observations were extremely satisfactory, and showed that the +thermometer (Casella's) behaved well at every boiling, as there was no +confusion of altitudes, but each observation corroborated the preceding. +The latitude of the island of Patooan by observation was 2 degrees 16': +we were thus due west of Magungo, and east of Karuma Falls. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +TREACHEROUS DESIGNS OF THE NATIVES. + +We were prisoners on the island of Patooan, as we could not procure +porters at any price to remove our effects. We had lost all our riding +oxen within a few days; they had succumbed to the flies, and the only +animal alive was already half dead; this was the little bull that had +always carried the boy Saat. It was the 8th April, and within a few days +the boats upon which we depended for our return to civilization would +assuredly quit Gondokoro. I offered the natives all the beads that I had +(about 50 lbs.) and the whole of my baggage, if they would carry us to +Shooa direct from this spot. We were in perfect despair, as we were both +completely worn out with fever and fatigue, and certain death seemed to +stare us in the face should we remain in this unhealthy spot; worse than +death was the idea of losing the boats and becoming prisoners for +another year in this dreadful land; which must inevitably happen should +we not hurry direct to Gondokoro without delay. The natives, with their +usual cunning, at length offered to convey us to Shooa, provided that I +paid them the beads in advance; the boats were prepared to ferry us +across the river, but I fortunately discovered through the woman +Bacheeta their treacherous intention of placing us on the uninhabited +wilderness on the north side, and leaving us to die of hunger. They had +conspired together to land us, but to immediately return with the boats +after having thus got rid of the incubus of their guests. + +We were in a great dilemma--had we been in good health, I would have +forsaken everything but the guns and ammunition, and have marched direct +to Gondokoro on foot: but this was utterly impossible; neither my wife +nor I could walk a quarter of a mile without fainting--there was no +guide--and the country was now overgrown with impenetrable grass and +tangled vegetation eight feet high;--we were in the midst of the rainy +season--not a day passed without a few hours of deluge;--altogether +it was a most heartbreaking position. Added to the distress of mind at +being thus thwarted, there was also a great scarcity of provision. Many +of my men were weak, the whole party having suffered much from fever-- +in fact, we were completely helpless. + +Our guide Rabonga, who had accompanied us from M'rooli, had absconded, +and we were left to shift for ourselves. I was determined not to remain +on the island, as I suspected that the boats might be taken away, and +that we should be kept prisoners; I therefore ordered my men to take the +canoes, and to ferry us to the mainland, from whence we had come. The +headman, upon hearing this order, offered to carry us to a village, and +then to await orders from Kamrasi as to whether we were to be forwarded +to Shooa or not. The district in which the island of Patooan was +situated was called Shooa Moru, although having no connexion with the +Shooa in the Madi country to which we were bound. + +We were ferried across to the main shore, and both in our respective +angareps were carried by the natives for about three miles: arriving at +a deserted village, half of which was in ashes, having been burnt and +plundered by the enemy, we were deposited on the ground in front of an +old hut in the pouring rain, and were informed that we should remain +there that night, but that on the following morning we should proceed to +our destination. + +Not trusting the natives, I ordered my men to disarm them, and to retain +their spears and shields as security for their appearance on the +following day. This effected, we were carried into a filthy hut about +six inches deep in mud, as the roof was much out of repair, and the +heavy rain had flooded it daily for some weeks. I had a canal cut +through the muddy floor, and in misery and low spirits we took +possession. + +On the following morning not a native was present! We had been entirely +deserted; although I held the spears and shields, every man had +absconded--there were neither inhabitants nor provisions--the whole +country was a wilderness of rank grass that hemmed us in on all sides; +not an animal, nor even a bird, was to be seen; it was a miserable, +damp, lifeless country. We were on elevated ground, and the valley of +the Somerset was about two miles to our north, the river roaring +sullenly in its obstructed passage, its course marked by the double belt +of huge dark trees that grew upon its banks. + +My men were naturally outrageous, and they proposed that we should +return to Patooan, seize the canoes, and take provisions by force, as we +had been disgracefully deceived. The natives had merely deposited us +here to get us out of the way, and in this spot we might starve. Of +course I would not countenance the proposal of seizing provisions, but I +directed my men to search among the ruined villages for buried corn, in +company with the woman Bacheeta, who, being a native of this country, +would be up to the ways of the people, and might assist in the +discovery. + +After some hours passed in rambling over the black ashes of several +villages that had been burnt, they discovered a hollow place, by +sounding the earth with a stick, and, upon digging, they arrived at a +granary of the seed known as "tullaboon;" this was a great prize, as, +although mouldy and bitter, it would keep us from starving. The women of +the party were soon hard at work grinding, as many of the necessary +stones had been found among the ruins. + +Fortunately there were three varieties of plants growing wild in great +profusion, that, when boiled, were a good substitute for spinach; thus +we were rich in vegetables, although without a morsel of fat or animal +food. Our dinner consisted daily of a mess of black porridge of bitter +mouldy flour, that no English pig would condescend to notice, and a +large dish of spinach. "Better a dinner of herbs where love is," &c. +often occurred to me; but I am not sure that I was quite of that opinion +after a fortnight's grazing upon spinach. + +Tea and coffee were things of the past, the very idea of which made our +mouths water; but I found a species of wild thyme growing in the +jungles, and this, when boiled, formed a tolerable substitute for tea; +sometimes our men procured a little wild honey, which, added to the +thyme tea, we considered a great luxury. + +This wretched fare, in our exhausted state from fever and general +effects of climate, so completely disabled us, that for nearly two +months my wife lay helpless on one angarep, and I upon the other; +neither of us could walk. The hut was like all in Kamrasi's country, a +perfect forest of thick poles to support the roof (I counted +thirty-two); thus, although it was tolerably large, there was but little +accommodation. These poles we now found very convenient, as we were so +weak, that we could not rise from bed without hauling by one of the +supports. + +We were very nearly dead, and our amusement was a childish conversation +about the good things in England, and my idea of perfect happiness was +an English beefsteak and a bottle of pale ale; for such a luxury I would +most willingly have sold my birthright at that hungry moment. We were +perfect skeletons; and it was annoying to see how we suffered upon the +bad fare, while our men apparently throve. There were plenty of wild red +peppers, and the men seemed to enjoy a mixture of porridge and legumes a +la sauce piquante. They were astonished at my falling away on this food, +but they yielded to my argument when I suggested that a "lion would +starve where a donkey grew fat." I must confess that this state of +existence did not improve my temper, which, I fear, became nearly as +bitter as the porridge. My people had a windfall of luck, as Saat's ox, +that had lingered for a long time, lay down to die, and stretching +himself out, commenced kicking his last kick; the men immediately +assisted him by cutting his throat, and this supply of beef was a luxury +which, even in my hungry state, was not the English beefsteak for which +I sighed; and I declined the diseased bull. + +The men made several long excursions through the country to endeavour to +purchase provisions, but in two months they procured only two kids; the +entire country was deserted, owing to the war between Kamrasi and +Fowooka. Every day the boy Saat and the woman Bacheeta sallied out and +conversed with the inhabitants of the different islands on the river; +sometimes, but very rarely, they returned with a fowl; such an event +caused great rejoicing. + +We had now given up all hope of Gondokoro, and were perfectly resigned +to our fate; this, we felt sure, was to be buried in Chopi. I wrote +instructions in my journal, in case of death, and told my headman to be +sure to deliver my maps, observations, and papers to the English Consul +at Khartoum; this was my only care, as I feared that all my labour might +be lost should I die. I had no fear for my wife, as she was quite as bad +as I, and if one should die, the other would certainly follow; in fact, +this had been agreed upon, lest she should fall into the hands of +Kamrasi at my death. We had struggled to win, and I thanked God that we +had won; if death were to be the price, at all events we were at the +goal, and we both looked upon death rather as a pleasure, as affording +rest; there would be no more suffering; no fever; no long journey before +us, that in our weak state was an infliction; the only wish was to lay +down the burden. + +Curious is the warfare between the animal instincts and the mind! Death +would have been a release that I would have courted, but I should have +liked that one "English beefsteak and pale ale" before I died! During +our misery of constant fever and starvation at Shooa Moru, insult had +been added to injury. There was no doubt that we had been thus deserted +by Kamrasi's orders, as every seven or eight days one of his chiefs +arrived, and told me that the king was with his army only four days' +march from me, and that he was preparing to attack Fowooka, but that he +wished me to join him, as with my fourteen guns we should win a great +victory. This treacherous conduct, after his promise to forward me +without delay to Shooa, enraged me exceedingly. We had lost the boats at +Gondokoro, and we were now nailed to the country for another year, +should we live, which was not likely; not only had the brutal king thus +deceived us, but he was deliberately starving us into conditions, his +aim being that my men should assist him against his enemy. At one time +the old enemy tempted me sorely to join Fowooka against Kamrasi; but, +discarding the idea, generated in a moment of passion, I determined to +resist his proposals to the last. It was perfectly true that the king +was within thirty miles of us, that he was aware of our misery; and he +made use of our extremity to force us to become his allies. + +After more than two months passed in this distress it became evident +that something must be done; I sent my headman, or vakeel, and one man, +with a native as a guide (that Saat and Bacheeta had procured from an +island), with instructions to go direct to Kamrasi, to abuse him +thoroughly in my name for having thus treated us, and tell him that I +was much insulted at his treating with me through a third party in +proposing an alliance. My vakeel was to explain that I was a much more +powerful chief than Kamrasi, and that if he required my alliance, he +must treat with me in person, and immediately send fifty men to +transport my wife, myself, and effects to his camp, where we might, in a +personal interview, come to terms. I told my vakeel to return to me with +the fifty men, and to be sure to bring from Kamrasi some token by which +I should know that he had actually seen him. The vakeel and Yaseen +started. + +After some days, the absconded guide, Rabonga, appeared with a number of +men, but without either my vakeel or Yaseen. He carried with him a small +gourd bottle, carefully stopped; this he broke, and extracted from the +inside two pieces of printed paper, that Kamrasi had sent to me in +reply. + +On examining the papers, I found them to be portions of the English +Church Service translated into (I think) the Kiswahili language, by Dr. +Krapf! There were many notes in pencil on the margin, written in +English, as translations of words in the text. It quickly occurred to me +that Speke must have given this book to Kamrasi on his arrival from +Zanzibar, and that he now extracted the leaves, and sent them to me as +the token I had demanded to show that my message had been delivered to +him. Rabonga made a lame excuse for his previous desertion; he delivered +a thin ox that Kamrasi had sent me, and he declared that his orders +were, that he should take my whole party immediately to Kamrasi, as he +was anxious that we should attack Fowooka without loss of time; we were +positively to start on the following morning! My bait had taken! and we +should escape from this frightful spot, Shooa Moru. + +On the following morning we were carried in our litters by a number of +men. The ox had been killed, the whole party had revelled in good food, +and a supply sufficient for the journey was taken by my men. + +Without inflicting the tedium of the journey upon the reader, it will be +sufficient to say that the country was the same as usual, being a vast +park overgrown with immense grass. Every day the porters bolted, and we +were left deserted at the charred ruins of various villages that had +been plundered by Fowooka's people. It poured with rain; there was no +cover, as all the huts had been burnt, and we were stricken with severe +fever daily. However, after five days of absurdly slow marching, the +roar of the rapids being distinctly audible at night, we arrived one +morning at a deserted camp of about 3,000 huts, which were just being +ignited by several natives. This had been Kamrasi's headquarters, which +he had quitted, and according to native custom it was to be destroyed by +fire. It was reported that the king had removed to another position +within an hour's march, and that he had constructed a new camp. Although +throughout the journey from Shooa Moru the country had been excessively +wild and uncultivated, this neighbourhood was a mass of extensive +plantain groves and burnt villages, but every plantain tree had been cut +through the middle and recklessly destroyed. This destruction had been +perpetrated by Fowooka's people, who had invaded the country, but had +retreated on the advance of Kamrasi's army. + +After winding through dense jungles of bamboos and interminable groves +of destroyed plantains, we perceived the tops of a number of grass huts +appearing among the trees. My men now begged to be allowed to fire a +salute, as it was reported that the ten men of Ibrahim's party who had +been left as hostages were quartered at this village with Kamrasi. +Hardly had the firing commenced, when it was immediately replied to by +the Turks from their camp, who, upon our approach, came out to meet us +with great manifestations of delight and wonder at our having +accomplished our long and difficult voyage. + +My vakeel and Yaseen were the first to meet us, with an apology that +severe fever had compelled them to remain in camp instead of returning +to Shooa Moru according to my orders, but they had delivered my message +to Kamrasi, who had, as I had supposed, sent two leaves out of a book +Speke had given him, as a reply. An immense amount of news had to be +exchanged between my men and those of Ibrahim; they had quite given us +up for lost, until they heard that we were at Shooa Moru. A report had +reached them that my wife was dead, and that I had died a few days +later. A great amount of kissing and embracing took place, Arab fashion, +between the two parties; and they all came to kiss my hand and that of +my wife, with the exclamation, that "By Allah, no woman in the world had +a heart so tough as to dare to face what she had gone through." "El hamd +el Illah! El hamd el Illah bel salaam!" ("Thank God--be grateful to +God"), was exclaimed on all sides by the swarthy throng of brigands who +pressed round us, really glad to welcome us back again; and I could not +help thinking of the difference in their manner now and fourteen months +ago, when they had attempted to drive us back from Gondokoro. + +On entering the village I found a hut prepared for me by the orders of +my vakeel: it was very small, and I immediately ordered a fence and +courtyard to be constructed. There were great numbers of natives, and a +crowd of noisy fellows pressed around us that were only dispersed by a +liberal allowance of the stick, well laid on by the Turks, who were not +quite so mild in their ways as my people. A fat ox was immediately +slaughtered by the vakeel commanding the Turks' party, and a great feast +was soon in preparation, as our people were determined to fraternize. + +Hardly were we seated in our hut, when my vakeel announced that Kamrasi +had arrived to pay me a visit. In a few minutes he was ushered into the +hut. Far from being abashed, he entered with a loud laugh totally +different to his former dignified manner." Well, here you are at last!" +he exclaimed. Apparently highly amused with our wretched appearance, he +continued, "So you have been to the M'wootan N'zige! well, you don't +look much the better for it; why, I should not have known you! ha, ha, +ha!" I was not in a humour to enjoy his attempts at facetiousness; I +therefore told him, that he had behaved disgracefully and meanly, and +that I should publish his character among the adjoining tribes as below +that of the most petty chief that I had ever seen. "Never mind," he +replied, "it's all over now; you really are thin, both of you;--it was +your own fault; why did you not agree to fight Fowooka? You should have +been supplied with fat cows and milk and butter, had you behaved well. I +will have my men ready to attack Fowooka tomorrow;--the Turks have ten +men; you have thirteen; thirteen and ten make twenty-three;--you shall +be carried if you can't walk, and we will give Fowooka no chance--he +must be killed--only kill him, and MY BROTHER will give you half of his +kingdom." He continued, "You shall have supplies tomorrow; I will go to +my brother, who is the great M'Kammaa Kamrasi, and he will send you all +you require. I am a little man, he is a big one; I have nothing; he has +everything, and he longs to see you; you must go to him directly, he +lives close by." I hardly knew whether he was drunk or sober--"my +brother the great M'Kamma Kamrasi!" I felt bewildered with astonishment: +then, "If you are not Kamrasi, pray who are you ?" I asked. "Who am I?" +he replied, "ha, ha, ha! that's very good; who am I?--why I am +M'Gambi, the brother of Kamrasi,--I am the younger brother, but he is +the King." + +The deceit of this country was incredible--I had positively never seen +the real Kamrasi up to this moment, and this man M'Gambi now confessed +to having impersonated the king his brother, as Kamrasi was afraid that +I might be in league with Debono's people to murder him, and therefore +he had ordered his brother M'Gambi to act the king. + +I now remembered, that the woman Bacheeta had on several occasions +during the journey told us that the Kamrasi we had seen was not the true +M'Kamma Kamrasi; but at the time I had paid little attention to her, as +she was constantly grumbling, and I imagined that this was merely said +in ill temper, referring to her murdered master Sali as the rightful +king. + +I called the vakeel of the Turks, Eddrees: he said, that he also had +heard long since that M'Gambi was not Kamrasi as we had all supposed, +but that he had never seen the great king, as M'Gambi had always acted +as viceroy; he confirmed the accounts I had just received, that the real +Kamrasi was not far from this village, the name of which was "Kisoona." +I told M'Gambi that I did not wish to see his brother the king, as I +should perhaps be again deceived and be introduced to some impostor like +himself; and that as I did not choose to be made a fool of, I should +decline the introduction. This distressed him exceedingly; he said, that +the "king was really so great a man that he, his own brother, dared not +sit on a stool in his presence, and that he had only kept in retirement +as a matter of precaution, as Debono's people had allied themselves with +his enemy Rionga in the preceding year, and he dreaded treachery." I +laughed contemptuously at M'Gambi, telling him that if a woman like my +wife dared to trust herself far from her own country among such savages +as Kamrasi's people, their king must be weaker than a woman if he dare +not show himself in his own territory. I concluded by saying, that I +should not go to see Kamrasi, but that he should come to visit me. +M'Gambi promised to send a good cow on the following morning, as we had +not tasted milk for some months, and we were in great want of +strengthening food. He took his leave, having received a small present +of minute beads of various colours. + +I could not help wondering at the curious combination of pride and +abject cowardice that had been displayed by the redoubted Kamrasi ever +since our first entrance to his territory. Speke when at Gondokoro had +told me how he had been kept waiting for fifteen days before the king +had condescended to see him. I now understood that this delay had been +occasioned more by fear than pride, and that, in his cowardice, the king +fell back upon his dignity as an excuse for absenting himself. + +With the addition of the Turks' party we were now twenty-four armed men. +Although they had not seen the real king Kamrasi, they had been well +treated since Ibrahim's departure, having received each a present of a +young slave girl as a wife, while, as a distinguishing mark of royal +favour, the vakeel Eddrees had received two wives instead of one; they +had also received regular supplies of flour and beef--the latter in +the shape of a fat ox presented every seventh day, together with a +liberal supply of plantain cider. + +On the following morning after my arrival at Kisoona, M'Gambi appeared, +beseeching me to go and visit the king. I replied that "I was hungry and +weak from want of food, and that I wanted to see meat, and not the man +who had starved me." In the afternoon a beautiful cow appeared with her +young calf, also a fat sheep, and two pots of plantain cider, as a +present from Kamrasi. That evening we revelled in milk, a luxury that we +had not tasted for some months. The cow gave such a quantity that we +looked forward to the establishment of a dairy and already contemplated +cheese-making. I sent the king a present of a pound of powder in +canister, a box of caps and a variety of trifles, explaining that I was +quite out of stores and presents, as I had been kept so long in his +country that I was reduced to beggary, as I had expected to have +returned to my own country long before this. + +In the evening, M'Gambi appeared with a message from the king, saying +that I was his greatest friend, and that he would not think of taking +anything from me, as he was sure that I must be hard up; that he desired +nothing, but would be much obliged if I would give him the "little +double rifle that I always carried, and my watch and compass!" He wanted +"nothing," only my Fletcher rifle, that I would as soon have parted with +as the bone of my arm: and these three articles were the same for which +I had been so pertinaciously bored before my departure from M'rooli. It +was of no use to be wroth; I therefore quietly replied that "I should +not give them, as Kamrasi had failed in his promise to forward me to +Shooa; but that I required no presents from him, as he always expected a +thousandfold in return." M'Gambi said that all would be right if I would +only agree to pay the king a visit. I objected to this, as I told him +the king, his brother, did not want to see me, but only to observe what +I had, in order to beg for all that he saw. He appeared much hurt, and +assured me that he would be himself responsible that nothing of the kind +should happen, and that he merely begged as a favour that I would visit +the king on the following morning, and that people should be ready to +carry me if I were unable to walk. Accordingly I arranged to be carried +to Kamrasi's camp at about 8 A.M. + +At the hour appointed M'Gambi appeared, with a great crowd of natives. +My clothes were in rags,--and as personal appearance has a certain +effect, even in Central Africa, I determined to present myself to the +king in as favourable a light as possible. I happened to possess a +full-dress Highland suit that I had worn when I lived in Perthshire many +years ago; this I had treasured as serviceable upon an occasion like the +present; accordingly I was quickly attired in kilt, sporran, and +Glengarry bonnet, and to the utter amazement of the crowd, the +ragged-looking object that had arrived in Kisoona now issued from the +obscure hut, with plaid and kilt of Athole tartan. A general shout of +exclamation arose from the assembled crowd; and taking my seat upon an +angarep, I was immediately shouldered by a number of men, and attended +by ten of my people as escort, I was carried towards the camp of the +great Kamrasi. + +In about half an hour we arrived. The camp, composed of grass huts, +extended over a large extent of ground, and the approach was perfectly +black with the throng that crowded to meet me. Women, children, dogs, +and men all thronged at the entrance of the street that led to Kamrasi's +residence. Pushing our way through this inquisitive multitude, we +continued through the camp until at length we reached the dwelling of +the king. Halting for the moment, a message was immediately received +that we should proceed; we accordingly entered through a narrow passage +between high reed fences, and I found myself in the presence of the +actual king of Unyoro, Kamrasi. He was sitting in a kind of porch in +front of a hut, and upon seeing me he hardly condescended to look at me +for more than a moment; he then turned to his attendants and made some +remark that appeared to amuse them, as they all grinned as little men +are wont to do when a great man makes a bad joke. + +I had ordered one of my men to carry my stool; I was determined not to +sit upon the earth, as the king would glory in my humiliation. M'Gambi, +his brother, who had formerly played the part of king, now sat upon the +ground a few feet from Kamrasi, who was seated upon the same stool of +copper that M'Gambi had used when I first saw him at M'rooli. Several of +his chiefs also sat upon the straw with which the porch was littered. I +made a "salaam," and took my seat upon my stool. Not a word passed +between us for about five minutes, during which time the king eyed me +most attentively, and made various remarks to the chiefs who were +present; at length he asked me why I had not been to see him before? I +replied, "Because I had been starved in his country, and I was too weak +to walk." He said--I should soon be strong, as he would now give me a +good supply of food, but that he could not send provisions to Shooa +Moru, as Fowooka held that country. Without replying to this wretched +excuse for his neglect, I merely told him that I was happy to have seen +him before my departure, as I was not aware until recently that I had +been duped by M'Gambi. He answered me very coolly, saying that although +I had not seen him he had nevertheless seen me, as he was among the +crowd of native escort on the day that we left M'rooli. Thus he had +watched our start at the very place where his brother M'Gambi had +impersonated the king. + +Kamrasi was a remarkably fine man, tall and well proportioned, with a +handsome face of a dark brown colour, but a peculiarly sinister +expression; he was beautifully clean, and instead of wearing the bark +cloth common among the people, he was dressed in a fine mantle of black +and white goatskins, as soft as chamois leather. His people sat on the +ground at some distance from his throne; when they approached to address +him on any subject they crawled upon their hands and knees to his feet, +and touched the ground with their foreheads. + +True to his natural instincts, the king commenced begging, and being +much struck with the Highland costume, he demanded it as a proof of +friendship, saying, that if I refused I could not be his friend. The +watch, compass, and double Fletcher rifle were asked for in their turn, +all of which I refused to give him. He appeared much annoyed, therefore +I presented him with a pound canister of powder, a box of caps, and a +few bullets. He replied, "What's the use of the ammunition if you won't +give me your rifle?" I explained that I had already given him a gun, and +that he had a rifle of Speke's. Disgusted with his importunity I rose to +depart, telling him that "I should not return to visit him, as I did not +believe he was the real Kamrasi. I had heard that Kamrasi was a great +king, but that he was a mere beggar, and was doubtless an impostor, like +M'Gambi." At this he seemed highly amused, and begged me not to leave so +suddenly, as he could not permit me to depart empty handed. He then gave +certain orders to his people, and after a little delay, two loads of +flour arrived, together with a goat and two jars of sour plantain cider. +These presents he ordered to be forwarded to Kisoona. I rose to take +leave, but the crowd, eager to see what was going forward, pressed +closely upon the entrance of the approach; seeing which, the king gave +certain orders, and immediately four or five men with long heavy +bludgeons rushed at the mob and belaboured them right and left, putting +the mass to flight pell-mell through the narrow lanes of the camp. + +I was then carried back to my camp at Kisoona, where I was received by a +great crowd of people. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +AT HOME IN KISOONA. + +IT appeared that Kisoona was to be headquarters until I should have an +opportunity of quitting the country for Shooa. Therefore I constructed a +comfortable little hut surrounded by a courtyard strongly fenced, in +which I arranged a Rakooba, or open shed, in which to sit during the +hottest hours of the day. + +My cow that I had received from Kamrasi gave plenty of milk, and every +second day we were enabled to make a small cheese about the size of a +six-pound cannon-shot. The abundance of milk made a rapid change in our +appearance; and Kisoona, although a place of complete "ennui," was a +delightful change after the privations of the last four months. Every +week the king sent me an ox and a quantity of flour for myself and +people, and the whole party grew fat. We used the milk native fashion, +never drinking it until curdled;--taken in this form it will agree with +the most delicate stomach, but if used fresh in large quantities it +induces biliousness. The young girls of thirteen and fourteen that are +the wives of the king are not appreciated unless extremely fat--they are +subjected to a regular system of fattening in order to increase their +charms; thus at an early age they are compelled to drink daily about a +gallon of curded milk, the swallowing of which is frequently enforced by +the whip; the result is extreme obesity. In hot climates milk will +curdle in two or three hours if placed in a vessel that has previously +contained sour milk. When curdled it should be well beaten together +until it assumes the appearance of cream; in this state, if seasoned +with a little salt, it is most nourishing and easy of digestion. The +Arabs invariably use it in this manner, and improve it by the addition +of red pepper. The natives of Unyoro will not eat red pepper, as they +believe that men and women become barren by its use. + +Although the fever had so completely taken possession of me that I was +subject to an attack almost daily, the milk fattened me extremely, and +kept up my strength, which otherwise must have failed. The change from +starvation to good food produced a marvellous effect. Curious as it may +appear, although we were in a land of plantains, the ripe fruit was in +the greatest scarcity. The natives invariably eat them unripe, the green +fruit when boiled being a fair substitute for potatoes--the ripe +plantains were used for brewing plantain cider, but they were never +eaten. The method of cider-making was simple. The fruit was buried in a +deep hole and covered with straw and earth;--at the expiration of about +eight days the green plantains thus interred had become ripe;--they were +then peeled and pulped within a large wooden trough resembling a canoe; +this was filled with water, and the pulp being well mashed and stirred, +it was left to ferment for two days, after which time it was fit to +drink. + +Throughout the country of Unyoro, plantains in various forms were the +staple article of food, upon which the inhabitants placed more +dependence than upon all other crops. The green plantains were not only +used as potatoes, but when peeled they were cut in thin slices and dried +in the sun until crisp; in this state they were stored in the granaries, +and when required for use they were boiled into a pulp and made into a +most palatable soup or stew. Flour of plantains was remarkably good; +this was made by grinding the fruit when dried as described; it was +then, as usual with all other articles in that country, most beautifully +packed in long narrow parcels, either formed of plantain bark or of the +white interior of rushes worked into mats. This bark served as brown +paper, but had the advantage of being waterproof. The fibre of the +plantain formed both thread and cord, thus the principal requirements of +the natives were supplied by this most useful tree. The natives were +exceedingly clever in working braid from the plantain fibre, which was +of so fine a texture that it had the appearance of a hair chain; nor +could the difference be detected without a close examination. Small bags +netted with the same twine were most delicate, and in all that was +produced in Unyoro there was a remarkably good taste displayed in the +manufacture. + +The beads most valued were the white opal, the red porcelain, and the +minute varieties generally used for working on screens in England; these +small beads [These were given to me by Speke at Gondokoro] of various +colours were much esteemed, and were worked into pretty ornaments, about +the shape of a walnut, to be worn suspended from the neck. I had a small +quantity of the latter variety that I presented to Kamrasi, who prized +them as we should value precious stones. + +Not only were the natives clever generally in their ideas, but they were +exceedingly cunning in their bargains. Every morning, shortly after +sunrise, men might be heard crying their wares throughout the camp-- +such as, "Tobacco, tobacco; two packets going for either beads or +simbis!" (cowrie-shells). "Milk to sell for beads or salt!" "Salt to +exchange for lance-heads!" "Coffee, coffee, going cheap for red beads!" +"Butter for five jenettos (red beads) [These were given to me by Speke +at Gondokoro] a lump!" + +The butter was invariably packed in a plantain leaf, but frequently the +package was plastered with cow dung and clay, which, when dry, formed a +hard coating, and protected it from the air; this gave it a bad flavour, +and we returned it to the dealer as useless. A short time after, he +returned with fresh butter in a perfectly new green leaf, and we were +requested to taste it. Being about the size and shape of a cocoa-nut, +and wrapped carefully in a leaf with only the point exposed, I of course +tasted from that portion, and approving the flavour, the purchase was +completed. We were fairly cheated, as the butter dealer had packed the +old rejected butter in a fresh leaf, and had placed a small piece of +sweet butter on the top as a tasting point. They constantly attempted +this trick. + +As retailers they took extraordinary pains to divide everything into +minimum packets, which they sold for a few beads, always declaring that +they had only one packet to dispose of, but immediately producing +another when that was sold. This method of dealing was exceedingly +troublesome, as it was difficult to obtain supplies in any quantity. My +only resource was to send Saat to market daily to purchase all he could +find, and he usually returned after some hours' absence with a basket +containing coffee, tobacco, and butter. + +We were comfortably settled at Kisoona, and the luxury of coffee after +so long an abstinence was a perfect blessing. Nevertheless, in spite of +good food, I was a martyr to fever, which attacked me daily at about 2 +P.M. and continued until sunset. Being without quinine I tried vapour +baths, and by the recommendation of one of the Turks I pounded and +boiled a quantity of the leaves of the castor-oil plant in a large pot +containing about four gallons: this plant was in great abundance. Every +morning I arranged a bath by sitting in a blanket, thus forming a kind +of tent, with the pot of boiling water beneath my stool. Half an hour +passed in this intense heat produced a most profuse perspiration, and +from the commencement of the vapour system the attacks of fever +moderated both in violence and frequency. In about a fortnight, the +complaint had so much abated that my spirits rose in equal proportion, +and, although weak, I had no mortal fear of my old enemy. + +The king, Kamrasi, had supplied me with provisions, but I was troubled +daily by messengers who requested me to appear before him to make +arrangements for the proposed attack upon Rionga and Fowooka. My excuse +for non-attendance was my weak state; but Kamrasi determined not to be +evaded, and one day his headman Quonga announced that the king would pay +me a visit on the following morning. Although I had but little remaining +from my stock of baggage except the guns, ammunition, and astronomical +instruments, I was obliged to hide everything underneath the beds, lest +the avaricious eyes of Kamrasi should detect a "want." True to his +appointment, he appeared with numerous attendants, and was ushered into +my little hut. I had a very rude but serviceable armchair that one of my +men had constructed; in this the king was invited to sit. Hardly was he +seated, when he leant back, stretched out his legs, and making some +remark to his attendants concerning his personal comfort, he asked for +the chair as a present. I promised to have one made for him immediately. +This being arranged, he surveyed the barren little hut, vainly +endeavouring to fix his eyes upon something that he could demand; but so +fruitless was his search, that he laughingly turned to his people and +said, "How was it that they wanted so many porters, if they had nothing +to carry?" My interpreter explained, that many things had been spoiled +during the storms on the lake, and had been left behind; that our +provisions had long since been consumed, and that our clothes were worn +out--thus we had nothing left but a few beads. "New varieties, no +doubt," he replied; "give me all that you have of the small blue and the +large red!" We had carefully hidden the main stock, and a few had been +arranged in bags to be produced as the occasion might require; these +were now unpacked by the boy Saat and laid before the king. I told him +to make his choice, which he did precisely as I had anticipated, by +making presents to his surrounding friends out of my stock, and +monopolizing the remainder for his share: the division of the portions +among his people was a modest way of taking the whole, as he would +immediately demand their return upon quitting my hut. No sooner were the +beads secured than he repeated the original demand for my watch and the +No. 24 double rifle; these I resolutely refused. He then requested +permission to see the contents of a few of the baskets and bags that +formed our worn-out luggage. There was nothing that took his fancy +except needles, thread, lancets, medicines, and a small tooth-comb; the +latter interested him exceedingly, as I explained that the object of the +Turks in collecting ivory was to sell it to Europeans who manufactured +it into many articles, among which were small tooth-combs such as he +then examined. He could not understand how the teeth could be so finely +cut. Upon the use of the comb being explained, he immediately attempted +to practise upon his woolly head; failing in the operation, he adapted +the instrument to a different purpose, and commenced scratching beneath +the wool most vigorously: the effect being satisfactory, he at once +demanded the comb, which was handed to each of the surrounding chiefs, +all of whom had a trial of its properties, and, every head having been +scratched, it was returned to the king, who handed it to Quonga, the +headman that received his presents. So complete was the success of the +comb that he proposed to send me one of the largest elephant's tusks, +which I was to take to England and cut into as many small tooth-combs as +it would produce for himself and his chiefs. + +The lancets were next admired, and were declared to be admirably adapted +for paring his nails--they were therefore presented to him. Then came +the investigation of the medicine chest, and every bottle was applied to +his nose, and a small quantity of the contents was requested. On the +properties of tartar-emetic being explained, he proposed to swallow a +dose immediately, as he had been suffering from headache, but as he was +some distance from home I advised him to postpone the dose until his +return; I accordingly made up about a dozen powders, one of which (three +grains) he was to take that evening. + +The concave mirror, our last looking-glass, was then discovered; the +distortion of face it produced was a great amusement, and after it had +been repeatedly handed round, it was added to his presents. More +gunpowder was demanded, and a pound canister and a box of caps were +presented to him, but I positively refused the desired bullets. + +To change the conversation, I inquired whether he or any of his people +knew from whence their race originated, as their language and appearance +were totally different to the tribes that I had visited front the north. +He told me that he knew his grandfather, whose name was Cherrybambi, but +that he knew nothing of the history of the country, except that it had +formerly been a very extensive kingdom, and that Uganda and Utumbi had +been comprised in the country of Kitwara with Unyoro and Chopi. + +The kingdom of Kitwara extended from the frontier of Karagwe to the +Victoria Nile at Magungo, and Karuma, bounded on all sides but the south +by that river and the Victoria and the Albert lakes; the latter lake +forming the western frontier. During the reign of Cherrybambi, the +province of Utumbi revolted, and not only became independent, but drove +Cherrybambi from Uganda across the Kafoor river to Unyoro. This revolt +continued until Cherrybambi's death, when the father of M'tese (the +present king of Uganda), who was a native of Utumbi, attacked and +conquered Uganda and became king. From that time there has been +continual war between Uganda and Unyoro; or, as Kamrasi calls his +kingdom, Kitwara, that being the ancient name: to the present day, +M'tese, the king of Uganda, is one of his greatest enemies. It was in +vain that I attempted to trace his descent from the Gallas; both upon +this and other occasions he and his people denied all knowledge of their +ancient history. + +He informed me that Chopi had also revolted after the death of +Cherrybambi, and that he had reconquered it only ten or twelve years +ago, but that even now the natives were not to be trusted, as many had +leagued with Fowooka and Rionga, whose desire was to annex Chopi and to +form a separate kingdom: these chiefs had possession of the river +islands, which strongholds it was impossible to attack without guns, as +the rapids were so dangerous that canoes could only approach by a +certain passage. + +Kamrasi expressed his determination to kill both of the refractory +chiefs, as he would have no rest during their lives; he disclaimed all +relationship with Rionga, who had been represented to Speke as his +brother, and he concluded by requesting me to assist him in an attack +upon the river islands, promising that if I should kill Fowooka and +Rionga he would give me a large portion of his territory. + +He suggested that I should stand upon a high cliff that commanded +Fowooka's island; from that point I could pick off not only the chief, +but all his people, by firing steadily with the little double 24 rifle; +he continued even farther, that if I were too ill to go myself, I should +LEND him my little Fletcher 24 rifle, give him my men to assist his +army, and he would pick off Rionga himself from the cliff above the +river: this was his mild way of securing the rifle which he had coveted +ever since my arrival in his country. I told him plainly that I could +not mix myself up with his quarrels; that I travelled with only one +object, of doing good, and that I would harm no one unless in +self-defence, therefore I could not be the aggressor; but that should +Fowooka and Rionga attack his position I should be most happy to lend +him my aid to repel them. Far from appreciating my ideas of fair play, +he immediately rose from his chair, and without taking leave he walked +out of the hut, attended by his people. + +The next morning I heard that he had considered himself poisoned by the +tarter-emetic but that he was now well. + +From that day I received no supplies for myself or my people, as the +king was affronted. A week passed away, and I was obliged to purchase +meat and flour from Eddrees, the lieutenant who commanded the Turks' +party of nine men. I gave this man a double-barrelled gun, and he +behaved well. + +One day I was lying upon my bed with a fit of ague, when it was reported +that four men had arrived from M'tese, the king of Uganda, who wished to +see me. Unfortunately my vakeel delayed the men for so long that they +departed, promising to return again, having obtained from my people all +information concerning me: these were spies from the king of Uganda, +whose object at that time was unknown to us. + +The weeks passed slowly at Kisoona, as there was a tedious monotony in +the lack of incident;--every day was a repetition of the preceding. My +time was passed in keeping a regular journal; mapping; and in writing +letters to friends in England, although there was no communication. This +task afforded the greatest pleasure, as I could thus converse in +imagination with those far away. The thought frequently occurred to me +that they might no longer exist, and that the separation of years might +be the parting forever; nevertheless there was a melancholy satisfaction +at thus blankly corresponding with those whom I had loved in former +years. Thus the time slowly ebbed away; the maps were perfected; +information that I had received was confirmed by the repeated +examination of natives; and a few little black children who were allowed +to run about our courtyard like so many puppies afforded a study of the +African savage in embryo. This monotony was shortly disturbed. + +At about 9 P.M. one night we were suddenly disturbed by a tremendous din +--hundreds of nogaras were beating, horns blowing, and natives +screaming in all directions. I immediately jumped out of bed, and +buckling on my belt I took my rifle and left the hut. The village was +alive with people all dressed for war, and bearded with cows' tails, +dancing and rushing about with shields and spears, attacking imaginary +enemies. Bacheeta informed me that Fowooka's people had crossed the Nile +and were within three hours' march of Kisoona, accompanied by A HUNDRED +AND FIFTY of Debono's trading party, the same that had formerly attacked +Kamrasi in the preceding year in company with Rionga's people. It was +reported, that having crossed the Nile they were marching direct on +Kisoona, with the intention of attacking the country and of killing +Kamrasi. M'Gambi, the brother of Kamrasi, whose hut was only twenty +yards distant, immediately came to me with the news: he was in a state +of great alarm, and was determined to run off to the king immediately to +recommend his flight. After some time I succeeded in convincing him that +this was unnecessary, and that I might be of great service in this +dilemma if Kamrasi would come personally to me early on the following +morning. + +The sun had just risen, when the king unceremoniously marched into my +hut;--he was no longer the dignified monarch of Kitwara clothed in a +beautiful mantle of fine skins, but he wore nothing but a short kilt of +blue baize that Speke had given him, and a scarf thrown across his +shoulders. He was dreadfully alarmed, and could hardly be persuaded to +leave his weapons outside the door, according to the custom of the +country--these were three lances and a double-barrelled rifle that had +been given him by Speke. I was much amused at his trepidation, and +observing the curious change in his costume, I complimented him upon the +practical cut of his dress, that was better adapted for fighting than +the long and cumbrous mantle. "FIGHTING!" he exclaimed, with the horror +of "Bob Acres," "I am not going to fight! I have dressed lightly to be +able to run quickly. I mean to run away! Who can fight against guns? +Those people have one hundred and fifty guns; you must run with me; we +can do nothing against them; you have only thirteen men; Eddrees has +only ten; what can twenty-three do against A HUNDRED AND FIFTY? Pack up +your things and run; we must be off into the high grass and hide at +once; the enemy is expected every moment!" + +I never saw a man in such a deplorable state of abject fright, and I +could not help laughing aloud at the miserable coward who represented a +kingdom. Calling my headman, I ordered him to hoist the English ensign +on my tall flagstaff in the courtyard. In a few moments the old flag was +waving in a brisk breeze and floating over my little hut. There is +something that warms the heart in the sight of the Union Jack when +thousands of miles away from the old country. I now explained to Kamrasi +that both he and his country were under the protection of that flag, +which was the emblem of England; and that so long as he trusted to me, +although I had refused to join him in attacking Fowooka, he should see +that I was his true ally, as I would defend him against all attacks. I +told him to send a large quantity of supplies into my camp, and to +procure guides immediately, as I should send some of my men without +delay to the enemy's camp with a message to the vakeel of Debono's +party. Slightly reassured by this arrangement, he called Quonga, and +ordered him to procure two of his chiefs to accompany my men. The best +of his men, Cassave, appeared immediately;--this was a famous fellow, +who had always been civil and anxious to do his duty both to his master +and to me. I summoned Eddrees, and ordered him to send four of his men +with an equal number of mine to the camp of Fowooka to make a report of +the invading force, and to see whether it was true that Debono's people +were arrived as invaders. In half an hour from the receipt of my order, +the party started;--eight well-armed men accompanied by about twenty +natives of Kamrasi's with two days' provisions. Kisoona was about ten +miles from the Victoria Nile. + +At about 5 P.M. on the following day my men returned, accompanied by ten +men and a choush, or sergeant, of Debono's party;--they had determined +to prove whether I was actually in the country, as they had received a +report some months ago that both my wife and I were dead; they imagined +that the men that I had sent to their camp were those of the rival party +belonging to Ibrahim, who had wished to drive them out of Kamrasi's +country by using my name. However, they were now undeceived, as the +first object that met their view was the English flag on the high +flagstaff, and they were shortly led into my courtyard, where they were +introduced to me in person. They sat in a half-circle around me. + +Assuming great authority, I asked them how they could presume to attack +a country under the protection of the British flag? I informed them that +Unyoro belonged to me by right of discovery, and that I had given +Ibrahim the exclusive right to the produce of that country, on the +condition that he should do nothing contrary to the will of the reigning +king, Kamrasi; that Ibrahim had behaved well; that I had been guided to +the lake and had returned, and that we were now actually fed by the +king; and we were suddenly invaded by Turkish subjects in connexion with +a hostile tribe, who thus insulted the English flag. I explained to them +that I should not only resist any attack that might be made upon +Kamrasi, but that I should report the whole affair to the Turkish +authorities upon my return to Khartoum; and that, should a shot be fired +or a slave be stolen in Kamrasi's country, the leader of their party, +Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, would be hanged. + +They replied that they were not aware that I was in the country; that +they were allies of Fowooka, Rionga, and Owine, the three hostile +chiefs; that they had received both ivory and slaves from them on +condition that they should kill Kamrasi; and that, according to the +custom of the White Nile trade, they had agreed to these conditions. +They complained that it was very hard upon them to march six days +through an uninhabited wilderness between their station at Faloro and +Fowooka's islands and to return empty handed. In reply I told them, that +they should carry a letter from me to their vakeel Mahommed, in which I +should give him twelve hours from the receipt of my order to recross the +river with his entire party and their allies and quit Kamrasi's country. + +They demurred to this alternative: but I shortly settled their +objections, by ordering my vakeel to write the necessary letter, and +desiring them to start before sunrise on the following morning. Kamrasi +had been suspicious that I had sent for Mahommed's party to invade him +because he had kept me starving at Shooa Moru instead of forwarding me +to Shooa as he had promised. This suspicion placed me in an awkward +position; I therefore called M'Gambi (his brother) in presence of the +Turks, and explained the whole affair face to face, desiring Mahommed's +people themselves to explain to him that they would retire from the +country simply because I commanded them to do so, but that, had I not +been there, they would have attacked him. This they repeated with a very +bad grace, boasting, at the completion, that, were it not for me, they +would shoot M'Gambi where he stood at that moment. The latter, fully +aware of their good intentions, suddenly disappeared. . . . My letter to +Mahommed was delivered to Suleiman Choush, the leader of his party, and +I ordered a sheep to be killed for their supper. . . . At sunrise on the +following morning they all departed, accompanied by six of my men, who +were to bring a reply to my letter. These people had two donkeys, and +just as they were starting, a crowd of natives made a rush to gather a +heap of dung that lay beneath the animals; a great fight and tussle took +place for the possession of this valuable medicine, in the midst of +which the donkey lifted up his voice and brayed so lustily that the +crowd rushed away with more eagerness than they had exhibited on +arriving, alarmed at the savage voice of the unknown animal. It appeared +that the dung of the donkey rubbed upon the skin was supposed to be a +cure for rheumatism, and that this rare specific was brought from a +distant country in the East where such animals existed. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +KAMRASI BEGS FOR THE BRITISH FLAG. + +Kamrasi, thus freed from his invaders, was almost stupefied with +astonishment. He immediately paid me a visit, and as he entered the +courtyard he stopped to look at the flag that was gaily fluttering above +him, as though it were a talisman. He inquired "why the Turks were awed +by an apparent trifle." I explained that the flag was well known, and +might be seen in every part of the world; wherever it was hoisted it was +respected, as he had just witnessed, even at so great a distance from +home and unsupported, as in Unyoro. + +Seizing the opportunity, he demanded it, saying, "What shall I do when +you leave my country and take that with you? These Turks will surely +return. Give me the flag, and they will be afraid to attack me!" I was +obliged to explain to him that "the respect for the British ensign had +not been gained by running away on the approach of danger, as he had +proposed on the arrival of the enemy, and that its honour could not be +confided to any stranger." True to his uncontrollable instinct of +begging, he replied, "If you cannot give me the flag, give me at least +that little double-barrelled rifle that you do not require, as you are +going home; then I can defend myself should the Turks attack me." + +I was excessively disgusted; he had just been saved by my intervention, +and his manner of thanking me was by begging most pertinaciously for the +rifle that I had refused him on more than twenty occasions. I requested +him never to mention the subject again, as I would not part with it +under any circumstances. Just at this moment I heard an uproar outside +my gate, and loud screams, attended with heavy blows. A man was dragged +past the entrance of the courtyard bound hand and foot, and was +immediately cudgelled to death by a crowd of natives. This operation +continued for some minutes, until his bones had been thoroughly broken +up by the repeated blows of clubs. The body was dragged to a grove of +plantains, and was there left for the vultures, who in a few minutes +congregated around it. + +It appeared that the offence thus summarily punished was the simple act +of conversing with some of the natives who had attended Mahommed's men +from Fowooka's island to Kisoona: a conversation with one of the enemy +was considered high treason, and was punished with immediate death. In +such cases, where either Kamrasi or his brother M'Gambi determined upon +the sudden execution of a criminal, the signal was given by touching the +condemned with the point of a lance: this sign was the order that was +immediately obeyed by the guards who were in attendance, and the culprit +was beaten to death upon the spot. Sometimes the condemned was touched +by a stick instead of a lance-point; this was a signal that he should be +killed by the lance, and the sentence was carried out by thrusting him +through the body with numerous spears--thus the instrument used to slay +the criminal was always contrary to the sign. + +On the day following this event, drums were beating, horns blowing, and +crowds of natives were singing and dancing in all directions; pots of +plantain cider were distributed, and general festivities proclaimed the +joy of the people at the news that Mahommed's party had retreated across +the river, according to their agreement with me. My men had returned +with a letter from Mahommed, stating that he was neither afraid of +Ibrahim's people nor of Kamrasi, but that as I claimed the country, he +must retire. Not only had he retired with his thwarted allies, but, +disgusted at the failure of his expedition, he had quarrelled with +Fowooka, and had plundered him of all his cattle, together with a number +of slaves: this termination of the affair had so delighted Kamrasi that +he had ordered general rejoicings: he killed a number of oxen, and +distributed them among his people, and intoxicated half the country with +presents of maroua, or the plantain cider. + +Altogether Mahommed, the vakeel of Debono, had behaved well to me in +this affair, although rather shabbily to his allies: he sent me six +pieces of soap, and a few strings of blue beads and jenettos (red glass +beads) as a proof that he parted with no ill feeling. Hardly were the +Turks in retreat when Kamrasi determined to give the finishing stroke to +his enemies. He sent great quantities of ivory to the camp, and one +evening his people laid about twenty tusks at my door, begging me to +count them. I told him to give the ivory to Ibrahim's men, as I required +nothing; but that should Ibrahim find a large quantity ready for him on +his return to the country, he would do anything that he might desire. + +A few days later, whole lines of porters arrived, carrying enormous +elephants' tusks to Eddrees, the vakeel. Early the next morning, +Kamrasi's entire army arrived laden with provisions, each man carrying +about 40 lbs. of flour in a package upon his head. The Turks' party of +ten men joined them, and I heard that an attack was meditated upon +Fowooka. + +A few days after the expedition had started, the Turks and about 1,000 +natives returned. Kamrasi was overjoyed; they had gained a complete +victory, having entirely routed Fowooka, and not only captured the +islands and massacred the greater number of the inhabitants, but they +had captured all the wives of the rebel chiefs, together with a number +of inferior slaves, and a herd of goats that had fortunately escaped the +search of Mahommed's retreating party. Fowooka and Owine had escaped by +crossing to the northern shore, but their power was irretrievably +ruined, their villages plundered and burned, and their women and +children captured. + +A number of old women had been taken in the general razzia; these could +not walk sufficiently fast to keep up with their victors during the +return march, they had accordingly all been killed on the road as being +cumbersome: in every case they were killed by being beaten on the back +of the neck with a club. Such were the brutalities indulged in. + +On the following morning I went to visit the captives; the women were +sitting in an open shed, apparently much dejected. I examined the hands +of about fourteen, all of which were well shaped and beautifully soft, +proving that they were women of high degree who never worked +laboriously: they were for the most part remarkably good looking, of +soft and pleasing expression, dark brown complexion, fine noses, woolly +hair, and good figures, precisely similar to the general style of women +in Chopi and Unyoro. + +Among the captives was a woman with a most beautiful child, a boy about +twelve months old; all these were slaves, and the greater number were in +a most pitiable state, being perfectly unfit for labour, having been +accustomed to luxury as the women of chiefs of high position. Curiously +enough, the woman Bacheeta, who had accompanied us to visit these +unfortunate captives, now recognised her former mistress, who was the +wife of the murdered Sali; she had been captured with the wives and +daughters of Rionga. Bacheeta immediately fell on her knees and crept +towards her on all fours, precisely as the subjects of Kamrasi were +accustomed to approach his throne. Sali had held as high a position as +Fowooka, and had been treacherously killed by Kamrasi at M'rooli in the +presence of Bacheeta. At that time peace had been established between +Kamrasi and the three great chiefs, who were invited to a conference at +M'rooli with a treacherous design on the part of the king. Hardly had +they arrived, when Rionga was seized by Kamrasi's orders, and confined +in a circular but with high mud walls and no doorway; the prisoner was +hoisted up and lowered down through an aperture in the roof. He was +condemned to be burnt alive on the following morning for some imaginary +offence, while Sali and Fowooka were to be either pardoned or murdered, +as circumstances might dictate. Sali was a great friend of Rionga, and +determined to rescue him; accordingly he plied the guards with drink, +and engaged them in singing throughout the night on one side of the +prison, while his men burrowed like rabbits beneath the wall on the +opposite side, and rescued Rionga, who escaped. + +Sali showed extreme folly in remaining at M'rooli, and Kamrasi, +suspicious of his complicity, immediately ordered him to be seized and +cut to pieces: he was accordingly tied to a stake, and tortured by +having his limbs cut off piecemeal--the hands being first severed at +the wrists, and the arms at the elbow joints. Bacheeta was an eyewitness +of this horrible act, and testified to the courage of Sali, who, while +under the torture, cried out to his friends in the crowd, warning them +to fly and save themselves, as he was a dead man, and they would share +his fate should they remain. Some escaped, including Fowooka, but many +were massacred on the spot, and the woman Bacheeta was captured by +Kamrasi and subsequently sent by him to the Turks' camp at Faloro, as +already described. From that day unremitting warfare was carried on +between Kamrasi and the island chiefs; the climax was their defeat, and +the capture of their women, through the assistance of the Turks. + +Kamrasi's delight at the victory knew no bounds; ivory poured into the +camp, and a hut was actually filled with elephants' tusks of the largest +size. Eddrees, the leader of the Turks' party, knowing that the victory +was gained by the aid of his guns, refused to give up the captives on +the demand of the king, claiming them as prisoners belonging to Ibrahim, +and declining any arguments upon the matter until his master should +arrive in the country. Kamrasi urged that, although the guns had been of +great service, no prisoners could have been captured without the aid of +his canoes, that had been brought by land, dragged all the way from +Karuma by hundreds of his people in readiness for the attack upon the +islands. + +As usual in all cases of dispute, I was to be referee. Kamrasi sent his +factotum Cassave in the night to my hut to confer with me without the +Turks' knowledge; then came his brother, M'Gambi, and at length, after +being pestered daily by messengers, the great king arrived in person. He +said that Eddrees was excessively insolent, and had threatened to shoot +him; that he had insulted him when on his throne surrounded by his +chiefs, and that, had he not been introduced into the country by me, he +would have killed him and his men on the spot. + +I advised Kamrasi not to talk too big, as he had lately seen what only +ten guns had effected in the fight with Fowooka, and he might imagine +the results that would occur should he even hint at hostility, as the +large parties of Ibrahim and the men of Mahommed Wat-el-Mek would +immediately unite and destroy both him and his country, and place his +now beaten enemy Fowooka upon HIS throne should a hair of a Turk's head +be missing. The gallant Kamrasi turned almost green at the bare +suggestion of this possibility. I advised him not to quarrel about +straws, assuring him, that as I had become responsible for the behaviour +of the Turks while in his country, he need have no fear; but that, on +the other hand, he must be both just and generous. If he would give them +a supply of ivory, he might always reckon upon them as valuable allies; +but if he attempted to quarrel, they would assuredly destroy his country +after my departure. Of course he requested me never to think of leaving +him, but to take up my abode for life in Kitwara, promising me all that +I should require in addition to a large territory. I replied that the +climate did not agree with me, and that nothing would induce me to +remain, but that, as the boats would not arrive at Gondokoro for six +months (until February), I might as well reside with him as anywhere +else. At the same time, I assured him that his professed friendship for +me was a delusion, as he only regarded me as a shield between him and +danger. After a long conversation, I succeeded in persuading him not to +interfere in matters regarding prisoners of war, and to look upon +Eddrees only as a vakeel until Ibrahim should arrive. He left my hut +promising not to mention the affair again; but the next, day he sent +Cassave to Eddrees, demanding two of the prettiest women who were +captives. In reply, Eddrees, who was an extremely hotheaded fellow, went +straight to Kamrasi, and spoke to him in a most insulting manner, +refusing his request. The king immediately rose from his seat and turned +his back upon the offender. Off rushed Eddrees, boiling with passion, to +his camp, summoned his men well armed, and marched straight towards the +residence of Kamrasi to demand satisfaction for the affront. + +Fortunately, my vakeel brought me the intelligence, and I sent after +him, ordering his immediate return, and declaring that no one should +break the peace so long as I was in the country. In about ten minutes, +both he and his men slunk back ashamed, mutually accusing each other, as +is usual in cases of failure. This was an instance of the madness of +these Turks in assuming the offensive, when, in the event of a fight, +defeat must have been certain. They were positively without ammunition! +having fired away all their cartridges except about five rounds for each +man in the attack upon Fowooka. Fortunately, this was unknown to +Kamrasi. I had a large supply, as my men were never permitted to fire a +shot without my special permission. + +The party of Turks were now completely in my power. I sent for Eddrees, +and also for the king: the latter had already heard from the natives of +the approach of the armed Turks, and of my interference. He refused to +appear in person, but sent his brother M'Gambi, who was, as usual, the +cat's-paw. M'Gambi was highly offended, and declared that Kamrasi had +forbidden Eddrees ever to appear again in his presence. I insisted upon +Eddrees apologizing, and it was resolved that all future negotiations +should be carried on through me alone. + +I suggested that it would be advisable for all parties that a message +should be sent without delay to Ibrahim at Shooa, as it was highly +necessary that he should be present, as I should not continue +responsible for the conduct of the Turks. When I arrived in Unyoro it +was with the intention of visiting the lake, and returning immediately. +I had been delayed entirely through Kamrasi's orders, and I could not be +held responsible for Eddrees;--my agreement had been to guarantee the +conduct of the Turks under Ibrahim, who was the commander of the party. +Eddrees, who, being without ammunition, was now excessively humble and +wished for reinforcements, offered to send five men to Shooa, provided +that Kamrasi would allow some natives to accompany them. This did not +suit the ideas of the suspicious M'Gambi, who suspected that he intended +to misrepresent Kamrasi's conduct to prejudice Ibrahim against him. +Accordingly, he declined his offer, but agreed to give porters and +guides, should I wish to send any of my men with a letter. This suited +my views exactly; I longed to quit Kamrasi's country, as Kisoona was a +prison of high grass and inaction, and could I only return to Shooa, I +could pass my time pleasantly in a fine open country and healthy +climate, with the advantage of being five days' march nearer home than +Unyoro. Accordingly, I instructed my vakeel to write a letter to +Ibrahim, calling him immediately to Kisoona, informing him that a large +quantity of ivory was collected, which, should Eddrees create a +disturbance, would be lost. On the following morning, four of my men +started for Shooa, accompanied by a number of natives. + +Kisoona relapsed into its former monotony-the war with Fowooka being +over, the natives, free from care, passed their time in singing and +drinking; it was next to impossible to sleep at night, as crowds of +people all drunk were yelling in chorus, blowing horns and beating drums +from sunset until morning. The women took no part in this amusement, as +it was the custom in Unyoro for the men to enjoy themselves in laziness, +while the women performed all the labour of the fields. Thus they were +fatigued, and glad to rest, while the men passed the night in uproarious +merriment. The usual style of singing was a rapid chant delivered as a +solo, while at intervals the crowd burst out in a deafening chorus +together with the drums and horns; the latter were formed of immense +gourds which, growing in a peculiar shape, with long bottle necks, were +easily converted into musical (?) instruments. Every now and then a cry +of fire in the middle of the night enlivened the ennui of our existence; +the huts were littered deep with straw, and the inmates, intoxicated, +frequently fell asleep with their huge pipes alight, which, falling in +the dry straw, at once occasioned a conflagration. In such cases the +flames spread from hut to hut with immense rapidity, and frequently four +or five hundred huts in Kamrasi's large camp were destroyed by fire, and +rebuilt in a few days. I was anxious concerning my powder, as, in the +event of fire, the blaze of the straw hut was so instantaneous that +nothing could be saved: should my powder explode, I should be entirely +defenceless. Accordingly, after a conflagration in my neighbourhood, I +insisted upon removing all huts within a circuit of thirty yards of my +dwelling: the natives demurring, I at once ordered my men to pull down +the houses, and thereby relieved myself from drunken and dangerous +neighbours. + +Although we had been regularly supplied with beef by the king, we now +found it most difficult to procure fowls; the war with Fowooka had +occasioned the destruction of nearly all the poultry in the +neighbourhood of Kisoona, as Kamrasi and his kojoors (magicians) were +occupied with daily sacrifices, deducing prognostications of coming +events from the appearances of the entrails of the birds slain. The king +was surrounded by sorcerers, both men and women; these people were +distinguished from others by witch-like chaplets of various dried roots +worn upon the head; some of them had dried lizards, crocodiles' teeth, +lions' claws, minute tortoise-shells, &c. added to their collection of +charms. They could have subscribed to the witches' cauldron of Macbeth: + + "Eye of newt and toe of frog, + Wool of bat and tongue of dog, + Adder's fork and blindworm's sting, + Lizard's leg and owlet's wing, + For a charm of powerful trouble, + Like a hell-broth boil and bubble." + +On the first appearance of these women, many of whom were old and +haggard, I felt inclined to repeat Banquo's question: "What are these, +so withered and so wild in their attire, that look not like the +inhabitants o' the earth, and yet are on't? Live you? or are you aught +that man may question?" + +In such witches and wizards Kamrasi and his people believed implicitly. +Bacheeta, and also my men, told me that when my wife was expected to die +during the attack of coup de soleil, the guide had procured a witch, who +had killed a fowl to question it, "Whether she would recover and reach +the lake?" The fowl in its dying struggle protruded its tongue, which +sign is considered affirmative; after this reply the natives had no +doubt of the result. These people, although far superior to the tribes +on the north of the Nile in general intelligence, had no idea of a +Supreme Being, nor any object of worship, their faith resting upon a +simple belief in magic like that of the natives of Madi and Obbo. + +Some weeks passed without a reply from Shooa to the letter I had +forwarded by my men, neither had any news been received of their +arrival; we had relapsed into the usual monotony of existence. This was +happily broken by a most important event. + +On the 6th September, M'Gambi came to my hut in a state of great +excitement, with the intelligence that the M'was, the natives of Uganda, +had invaded Kamrasi's country with a large army; that they had already +crossed the Kafoor river and had captured M'rooli, and that they were +marching through the country direct to Kisoona, with the intention of +killing Kamrasi and of attacking us, and annexing the country of Unyoro +to M'tese's dominions. My force was reduced by four men that I had sent +to Shooa--thus we were a party of twenty guns, including the Turks, +who unfortunately had no ammunition. + +There was no doubt about the truth of the intelligence; the natives +seemed in great consternation, as the M'was were far more powerful than +Kamrasi's people, and every invasion from that country had been attended +with the total rout of the Unyoro forces. I told M'Gambi that messengers +must be sent off at once to Shooa with a letter that I would write to +Ibrahim, summoning him immediately to Karuma with a force of 100 men; at +the same time I suggested that we should leave Kisoona and march with +Kamrasi's army direct to Karuma, there to establish a fortified camp to +command the passage of the river, and to secure a number of canoes to +provide a passage for Ibrahim's people whenever they could effect a +junction:--otherwise, the M'was might destroy the boats and cut off +the Turks on their arrival at the ferry. Kisoona was an exceedingly +disadvantageous situation, as it was a mere forest of trees and tangled +herbage ten or twelve feet high, in which the enemy could approach us +unperceived, secure from our guns. M'Gambi quite approved of my advice, +and hurried off to the king, who, as usual in cases of necessity, came +to me without delay. He was very excited, and said that messengers +arrived four or five times a day, bringing reports of every movement of +the enemy, who were advancing rapidly in three divisions, one by the +route direct from M'rooli to Karuma that I had followed on my arrival at +Atada, another direct to Kisoona, and a third between these two +parallels, so as to cut off his retreat to an island in the Nile, where +he had formerly taken refuge when his country was invaded by the same +people. I begged him not to think of retiring to the island, but to take +my advice and fight it out, in which case I should be happy to assist +him, as I was his guest, and I had a perfect right to repel any +aggression. + +Accordingly I drew a plan of operations, showing how a camp could be +formed on the cliff above Karuma Falls, having two sides protected by +the river, while a kraal could be formed in the vicinity completely +commanded by our guns, where his cattle would remain in perfect +security. He listened with wandering eyes to all military arrangements, +and concluded by abandoning all idea of resistance, but resolutely +adhering to his plan of flight to the island that had protected him on a +former occasion. + +We could only agree upon two points, the evacuation of Kisoona as +untenable, and the necessity of despatching a summons to Ibrahim +immediately. The latter decision was acted upon that instant, and +runners were despatched with a letter to Shooa. Kamrasi decided to wait +until the next morning for reports from expected messengers on the +movements of the enemy, otherwise he might run into the very jaws of the +danger he wished to avoid; and he promised to send porters to carry us +and our effects, should it be necessary to march to Karuma: with this +understanding, he departed. Bacheeta now assured me that the M'was were +so dreaded by the Unyoro people that nothing would induce them to fight; +therefore I must not depend upon Kamrasi in any way, but must make +independent arrangements: she informed me, that the invasion was caused +by accounts given to M'tese by Goobo Goolah, one of Speke's deserters, +who had run away from Kamrasi shortly after our arrival in the country, +and had reported to M'tese, the king of Uganda, that we were on our way +to pay him a visit with many valuable presents, but that Kamrasi had +prevented us from proceeding, in order to monopolise the merchandise. +Enraged at this act of his great enemy Kamrasi, he had sent spies to +corroborate the testimony of Goobo Goolah (these were the four men who +had appeared some weeks ago), which being confirmed, he had sent an army +to destroy both Kamrasi and his country, and to capture us and lead us +to his capital. This was the explanation of the affair given by +Bacheeta, who, with a woman's curiosity and tact, picked up information +in the camps almost as correctly as a Times correspondent. + +This was very enjoyable--the monotony of our existence had been +unbearable, and here was an invigorating little difficulty with just +sufficient piquancy to excite our spirits. My men were so thoroughly +drilled and accustomed to complete obedience and dependence upon my +guidance, that they had quite changed their characters. I called +Eddrees, gave him ten rounds of ball cartridge for each of his men, and +told him to keep with my party should we be obliged to march: he +immediately called a number of natives and concealed all his ivory in +the jungle. At about 9 P.M. the camp was in an uproar; suddenly drums +beat in all quarters, in reply to nogaras that sounded the alarm in +Kamrasi's camp; horns bellowed; men and women yelled; huts were set on +fire; and in the blaze of light hundreds of natives, all armed and +dressed for war, rushed frantically about, as usual upon such occasions, +gesticulating, and engaging in mock fight with each other, as though +full of valour and boiling over with a desire to meet the enemy. +Bacheeta, who was a sworn enemy to Kamrasi, was delighted at his +approaching discomfiture. As some of the most desperate looking +warriors, dressed with horns upon their heads, rushed up to us +brandishing their spears, she shouted in derision, "Dance away, my boys! +Now's your time when the enemy is far away; but if you see a M'was as +big as the boy Saat, you will run as fast as your legs can carry you." + +The M'was were reported to be so close to Kisoona that their nogaras had +been heard from Kamrasi's position, therefore we were to be ready to +march for Atada before daybreak on the following morning. There was +little sleep that night, as all the luggage had to be packed in +readiness for the early start. Cassave, who could always be depended +upon, arrived at my hut, and told me that messengers had reported that +the M'was had swept everything before them, having captured all the +women and cattle of the country and killed a great number of people; +that they had seen the light of burning villages from Kamrasi's camp, +and that it was doubtful whether the route was open to Atada. I +suggested that men should be sent on in advance, to report if the path +were occupied: this was immediately done. + +Before daybreak on the following morning an immense volume of light with +dense clouds of smoke in the direction of Kamrasi's position showed that +his camp had been fired, according to custom, and that his retreat had +commenced;--thousands of grass huts were in flames, and I could not +help being annoyed at the folly of these natives at thus giving the +enemy notice of their retreat, by a signal that could be seen at many +miles' distance, when success depended upon rapid and secret movements. + +Shortly after these signs of the march, crowds of women, men, cows, +goats, and luggage appeared, advancing in single file through a grove of +plantains and passing within twenty yards of us in an endless string. It +was pouring with rain, and women carrying their children were slipping +along the muddy path, while throngs of armed men and porters pushed +rudely by, until at last the gallant Kamrasi himself appeared with a +great number of women (his wives), several of whom were carried on +litters, being too fat to walk. He took no notice of me as he passed by. +M'Gambi was standing by me, and he explained that we were to close the +rear, Kamrasi having concluded that it was advisable to have the guns +between him and the enemy. + +For upwards of an hour the crowd of thousands of people and cattle filed +past; at length the last straggler closed the line of march. But where +were our promised porters? Not a man was forthcoming, and we were now +the sole occupants of the deserted village, excepting M'Gambi and +Cassave. These men declared that the people were so frightened that no +one would remain to carry us and ours effects, but that they would go to +a neighbouring villa and bring porters to convey us to Foweera tomorrow, +as that was the spot where Kamrasi wished us to camp; at Foweera there +was no high grass, and the country was perfectly open, so that the +rifles could command an extensive range. The cunning and duplicity of +Kamrasi were extraordinary--he promised, only to deceive; his object +in leaving us here was premeditated, as he knew that the M'was, should +they pursue him, must fight us before they could follow on his path; we +were therefore to be left to defend his rear. The order to camp at +Foweera had a similar motive. I knew the country, as we had passed it on +our march from Atada to M'rooli; it was about three miles from Karuma +Falls, and would form a position in Kamrasi's rear when he should +locate, himself upon the island. Foweera was an excellent military +point, as it was equidistant from the Nile north and east at the angle +where the river turned to the west from Atada. + +I was so annoyed at the deception practised by Kamrasi that I determined +to fraternise with the M'was, should they appear at Kisoona; and I made +up my mind not to fire a shot except in absolute necessity for so +faithless an ally as the king. This I explained to M'Gambi, and +threatened that if porters were not supplied I would wait at Kisoona, +join the M'was on their arrival, and with them as allies I would attack +the island which Kamrasi boasted was his stronghold. This idea +frightened M'Gambi, and both he and Cassave started to procure porters, +promising most faithfully to appear that evening, and to start together +to Foweera on the following morning. We were a party of twenty guns; +there was no fear in the event of an attack. I ordered all the huts of +the village to be burned except those belonging to our men; thus we had +a clear space for the guns in case of necessity. In the evening, true to +his promise, M'Gambi appeared with a number of natives, but Cassave had +followed Kamrasi. + +At sunrise on the following day we started, my wife in a litter, and I +in a chair. The road was extremely bad, excessively muddy from the rain +of yesterday, trodden deeply by the hoofs of herds of cattle, and by the +feet of the thousands that had formed Kamrasi's army and camp followers. +There was no variety in the country, it was the same undulating land +overgrown with impenetrable grass, and wooded with mimosas; every swamp +being shaded by clumps of the graceful wild date. After a march of about +eight miles we found the route dry and dusty, the rain on the preceding +day having been partial. There was no water on the road and we were all +thirsty, having calculated on a supply from the heavy rain. Although +many thousands of people had travelled on the path so recently as the +previous day, it was nevertheless narrow and hemmed in by the high +grass, as the crowd had marched in single file and had therefore not +widened the route. This caused great delay to the porters who carried +the litter, as they marched two deep; thus one man had to struggle +through the high grass. M'Gambi started off in advance of the party with +several natives at a rapid pace, while the Turks and some of my men +guarded the ammunition, and I remained in company with the litter and +five of my men to bring up the rear. The progress of the litter was so +slow that, after travelling all day until sunset, we were outmarched, +and just as it was getting dark, we arrived at a spot where a path +branched to the south, while the main path that we had been following +continued E.N.E. At this point a native was waiting, having been +stationed there by the Turks to direct us to the south; he explained +that the people had halted at a village close by. Pushing our way +through the narrow path we shortly arrived at the village of Deang. This +consisted of a few deserted huts scattered among extensive groves of +plantains. Here we found Eddrees and the Turks, with their captives from +the attack on Fowooka; passing their huts, we took possession of two +clean and new huts in the midst of a well-cultivated field of beans that +were about six inches above the ground, the cleared field forming an +oasis in the middle of the surrounding grass jungle There was no water; +it was already dark, and, although we had travelled through the heat of +the day, no one had drunk since the morning. We were intensely thirsty, +and the men searched in vain among the deserted huts in the hope of +finding a supply in the water jars they were all empty. Fortunately we +had a little sour milk in a jar that we had carried with us, barely +sufficient for two persons. There was nothing to eat except unripe +plantains: these we boiled as a substitute for potatoes. I disarmed all +the porters, placing their lances and shields under my bedstead in the +hut, lest their owners should abscond during the night. It now appeared +that our party had scattered most disgracefully; those in advance with +the ammunition who bad been ordered not to quit their charge for an +instant, had outmarched the main body, leaving Eddrees and a few men +with the captive women, who could not walk fast, and my small guard who +had attended the litter. + +No one ate much that night, as all were too thirsty. On the following +morning I found to my dismay that all of our porters had absconded, +except two men who had slept in the same hut with my people; we were for +about the hundredth time deserted in this detestable country. I ordered +Eddrees to push on to Foweera, and to desire my men with the ammunition +to wait there until I should arrive, and to request Kamrasi to send +porters immediately to assist us. Foweera was about thirteen miles from +Deang, our present position. Eddrees and his party started, and I +immediately sent my men with empty jars to search in all directions for +water; they returned in about an hour, having been unsuccessful. I again +ordered them to search in another direction, and should they find a +native, to force him to be their guide to a drinking place. In about +three hours they returned, accompanied by two old men, and laden with +three large jars of good water; they had found the old people in a +deserted village, and they had guided them to a spring about three miles +distant. Our chief want being supplied, we had no fear of starving, as +there was abundance of plantains, and we had about a dozen cheeses that +we had manufactured while at Kisoona, in addition to a large supply of +flour. A slight touch of fever attacked me, and I at length fell asleep. + +I was awakened by the voices of my men, who were standing at the door of +my hut with most doleful countenances. They explained that Richarn was +missing, and was supposed to have been killed by the natives. My vakeel +held a broken ramrod in his hand: this suspicious witness was covered +with blood. It appeared that while I was asleep, Richarn and one of my +men named Mahommed had taken their guns, and without orders had rambled +through the country in search of a village, with the intention of +procuring porters, if possible, to carry us to Foweera. + +They had arrived at a nest of small villages, and had succeeded in +engaging four men; these Richarn left in charge of Mahommed while he +proceeded alone to a neighbouring village. Shortly after his departure +Mahommed heard the report of a gun in that direction about half a mile +distant, and leaving his charge, he ran towards the spot. On arrival, he +found the village deserted, and on searching the neighbourhood, and +vainly calling Richarn, he came upon a large pool of blood opposite +several huts; lying upon the blood was the broken ramrod of Richarn's +gun. After searching without success, he had returned with the +melancholy report of this disaster. I was very fond of Richarn; he had +followed me faithfully for years, and with fewer faults than most of his +race, he had exhibited many sterling qualities. I waited for two days in +this spot, searching for him in all directions. On one occasion my men +saw a number of men and women howling in a village not far from the +place where the accident had happened; on the approach of my people they +fled into the jungles: thus, there was no doubt that Richarn must have +shot a man before he had been killed, as the natives were mourning for +the dead. + +I was much distressed at this calamity; my faithful Richarn was dead, +and the double-barrelled Purdey that he carried was lost; this belonged +to my friend Oswell, of South African and Lake Ngami celebrity; it was a +much-prized weapon, with which he had hunted for five years all the +heavy game of Africa with such untiring zeal that much of the wood of +the stock was eaten away by the "wait a bit" thorns in his passage on +horseback at full speed through the jungles. He had very kindly lent me +this old companion of his sports, and I had entrusted it to Richarn as +my most careful man: both man and gun were now lost. + +Having vainly searched for two days, and my men having seen several +village dogs with their mouths and feet covered with blood, we came to +the conclusion that his body had been dragged into the grass jungle by +the natives, and there, concealed, it had been discovered and devoured +by the dogs. + +No porters had arrived from Kamrasi, neither had any reply been sent to +the message I had forwarded by Eddrees;--the evening arrived, and, +much dispirited at the loss of my old servant, I lay down on my angarep +for the night. At about eight o'clock, in the stillness of our solitude, +my men asleep, with the exception of the sentry, we were startled by the +sound of a nogara at no great distance to the south of our huts. The two +natives who had remained with us immediately woke the men, and declared +that the drums we heard were those of the M'was, who were evidently +approaching our village;--the natives knew the peculiar sound of the +nogaras of the enemy, which were different to those of Kamrasi. This was +rather awkward--our ammunition was at Foweera, and we had no more than +the supply in our cartouche boxes, my men thirty rounds each, while I +carried in my pouch twenty-one. Our position was untenable, as the +drinking place was three miles distant. Again the nogara sounded, and +the native guides declared that they could not remain where we then +were, but they would conceal themselves in the high grass. My wife +proposed that we should forsake our luggage, and march at once for +Foweera and effect a junction with our men and ammunition before +daybreak. I was sure that it could not be less than twelve or thirteen +miles, and in her weak state it would be impossible for her to +accomplish the distance, through high grass, in darkness, over a rough +path, with the chance of the route being already occupied by the enemy. +However, she was determined to risk the march. I accordingly prepared to +start at 9 P.M., as at that time the moon would be about 30 degrees +above the horizon and would afford us a good light. I piled all the +luggage within the hut, packed our blankets in a canvas bag, to be +carried by one of the natives, and ordered one of our black women to +carry a jar of water. Thus provided, and forsaking all other effects, we +started at exactly nine o'clock, following our two natives as guides. + +Our course was about E.N.E. The moon was bright, but the great height of +the grass shadowed the narrow path so that neither ruts nor stones were +visible. The dew was exceedingly heavy, and in brushing through the rank +vegetation we were soon wet to the skin. This was our first attempt at +walking a distance since many months, and being dreadfully out of +condition, I much feared that one of us might be attacked by fever +before we should have accomplished the march; at all events, there was +no alternative but to push ahead until we should reach Foweera, however +distant. We walked for about three hours along a narrow but +unmistakeable path, well trodden by the cattle and people that had +accompanied Kamrasi. Suddenly we arrived at a place where a path +diverged to the right, while another led to the left: the former was +much trodden by cattle, and the guides declared this to be the right +direction. Perfectly certain of their mistake, as Foweera lay to the +east, while such a course would lead us due south, I refused to follow, +and ordered the party to halt while I made a survey of the +neighbourhood. I shortly discovered in the bright moonlight that the +larger path to the south had been caused by the cattle that had been +driven in that direction, but had again returned by the same route. It +was evident that some village lay to the south, at which Kamrasi and his +army had slept, and that they had returned by the same path to the +Foweera main route on the following morning. I soon discovered cattle +tracks on the smaller path to the east: this I determined to follow. My +guides were of little use, and they confessed that they had only once +visited the Foweera country. We were bound for the principal village +that belonged to the chief Kalloe, an excellent man, who had frequently +visited us at Kisoona. + +Not far from the branch roads we came suddenly upon a few huts, the +inmates of which were awake. They gave us the unpleasant intelligence +that the M'was occupied the country in advance, and that we should not +be able to pass them on our present route, as they were close to that +spot. It was now past midnight, the country was perfectly still, and +having no confidence in the guides I led the way. + +About a mile from the huts that we had passed we suddenly observed the +light of numerous fires, and a great number of temporary huts formed of +green grass and plantain leaves: this was the camp of the M'was. I did +not observe any people, nor did we wait long in our present position, +but taking a path that led to the north, we quietly and stealthily +continued our march through walls of high grass, until in about an hour +we arrived in a totally different country. There was no longer the +dismal grass jungle in which a man was as much lost as a rabbit in a +field of corn, but beautiful park-like glades of rich and tender grass, +like an English meadow, stretched before us in the pale moonlight, +darkened in many places by the shadows of isolated trees and clumps of +forest. Continuing along this agreeable route, we suddenly arrived at a +spot where numerous well-beaten paths branched into all directions. This +was extreme confusion. We had left the direct route to Foweera when we +had made the detour to avoid the M'was' camp. I knew that, as we had +then turned to the north, our course should now be due east. There was a +path leading in that direction; but just as we were quietly deliberating +upon the most advisable course, we heard distant voices. Any voice in +this neighbourhood I concluded must be that of an enemy, therefore I +ordered my people to sit down, while two men concealed themselves on the +borders of a jungle, about a hundred yards distant, as sentries. + +I then sent Bacheeta and one of the guides towards the spot from which +the sound of voices had proceeded, to listen to their language, and to +report whether they were M'was, or people of Foweera. The spies started +cautiously on their errand. + +About five minutes passed in utter silence; the voices that we had heard +had ceased. We were very cold, being wet through with the dew. My wife +was much fatigued, and now rested by sitting on the bag of blankets. I +was afraid of remaining long in inaction, lest she should become stiff +and be unable to march. + +We had been thus waiting for about ten minutes, when we were suddenly +startled by the most fearful and piercing yell I ever heard. This +proceeded from the jungle where one of my men was on guard, about a +hundred yards distant. + +For the moment I thought he had been caught by a lion, and cocking my +rifle, I ran towards the spot. Before I reached the jungle I saw one of +the sentries running in the same direction, and two other figures +approaching, one being dragged along by the throat by my man Moosa. He +had a prisoner. It appeared, that while he was crouching beneath the +bushes at the entrance of the main path that led through the jungle, he +suddenly observed a man quietly stealing along the forest close to him. +He waited, unobserved, until the figure had passed him, when he quickly +sprang upon him from behind, seizing his spear with his left hand and +grasping his throat with his right. + +This sudden and unexpected attack from an unseen enemy had so terrified +the native that he had uttered the extraordinary yell that had startled +our party. He was now triumphantly led by his captor, but he was so +prostrated by fear that he trembled as though in an ague fit. I +endeavoured to reassure him, and Bacheeta shortly returning with the +guide, we discovered the value of our prize. + +Far from being an enemy, he was one of Kalloe's men, who had been sent +to spy the M'was from Foweera: thus we had a dependable guide. This +little incident was as refreshing as a glass of sherry during the +night's march, and we enjoyed a hearty laugh. Bacheeta had been +unsuccessful in finding the origin of the voices, as they had ceased +shortly after she had left us. It appeared that our captive had also +heard the voices, and he was stealthily endeavouring to ascertain the +cause when he was so roughly seized by Moosa. We now explained to him +our route, and he at once led the way, relieving the native who had +hitherto carried the bag of blankets. We had made a considerable circuit +by turning from the direct path, but we now had the advantage of seeing +the open country before us, and marching upon a good and even path. We +walked for about three hours from this spot at a brisk pace, my wife +falling three times from sheer fatigue, which induced stumbling over the +slightest inequalities in the road. At length we descended a valley, and +crossing a slight hollow, we commenced the ascent of a gentle +inclination upon a beautiful grassy undulation crowned by a clump of +large trees. In the stillness of the night wherever we had halted we had +distinctly heard the distant roar of the river; but the sound had so +much increased within the last hour that I felt convinced we must be +near Foweera at the bend of the Victoria Nile. My wife was so exhausted +with the long march, rendered doubly fatiguing by the dew that had added +additional weight to her clothes, that she could hardly ascend the hill +we had just commenced. For the last hour our guide had declared that +Foweera was close to us; but experienced in natives' descriptions of +distance, we were quite uncertain as to the hour at which we should +arrive. We were already at the top of the hill, and within about two +hundred yards of the dense clump of trees my wife was obliged to confess +that she could go no farther. Just at that moment a cock crowed; another +replied immediately from the clump of trees close to us, and the guide, +little appreciating the blessing of his announcement, told us that we +had arrived at Kalloe's village, for which we were bound. + +It was nearly 5 A.M., and we had marched from Deang at 9 P.M. There was +some caution required in approaching the village, as, should one of the +Turks' sentries be on guard, he would in all probability fire at the +first object he might see, without a challenge. I therefore ordered my +men to shout, while I gave my well-known whistle that would be a signal +of our arrival. For some time we exerted our lungs in this manner before +we received a reply, and I began to fear that our people were not at +this village: at length a well-known voice replied in Arabic. The +sentries and the whole party were positively ASLEEP, although close to +an enemy's country. They were soon awake when it was reported that we +had arrived, and upon our entering the village they crowded around us +with the usual welcome. A large fire was lighted in a spacious hut, and +fortunately, the portmanteau having preceded us together with the +ammunition, we were provided with a change of clothes. + +I slept for a couple of hours, and then sent for the chief of Foweera, +Kalloe. Both he and his son appeared; they said that their spies had +reported that the M'was would attack this village on the following day; +that they had devastated the entire country and occupied the whole of +Unyoro and Chopi; that they had cut off a large herd of cattle belonging +to Kamrasi, and he had only just reached the island in time for +security, as the enemy had arrived at the spot and killed a number of +people who were too late to embark. Kalloe reported that Kamrasi had +fired at the M'was from the island, but having no bullets his rifle was +useless. The M'was had returned the fire, being provided with four guns +that they had procured from Speke's deserters;--they were in the same +condition as Kamrasi, having no bullets; thus a harmless fusilade had +been carried on by both parties. The M'was had retired from their +position on the bank of the river by Kamrasi's island, and had proceeded +to Atada, which they had destroyed. + +They were now within three miles of us; nevertheless the foolish Kalloe +expressed his determination of driving his cattle to Kamrasi's island +for security, about two miles distant. I endeavoured to persuade him +that they would be perfectly safe if under our protection, but his only +reply was to order his son to drive them off immediately. + +That day, Kalloe and all the natives quitted the village and fled to an +island for security, leaving us masters of the position. I served out a +quantity of ammunition to the Turks, and we were perfectly prepared. The +drums of the M'was were heard in all directions both day and night; but +we were perfectly comfortable, as the granaries were well filled, and +innumerable fowls stored both this and the closely adjoining deserted +villages. + +On the following day M'Gambi appeared with a message from Kamrasi, +begging us to come and form a camp on the bank of the river opposite to +his island to protect him from the M'was, who would assuredly return and +attack him in canoes. I told him plainly that I should not interfere to +assist him, as he had left me on the road at Deang; that Richarn had +been killed by his people, and that one of my guns was still in their +possession, added to which I had been obliged to forsake all my baggage, +owing to the desertion of the porters;--for all these errors I should +hold Kamrasi responsible. He replied that he did not think Richarn was +killed, but that he had shot the chief of a village dead, having got +into some quarrel with the natives. + +The conversation ended by my adhering to my intention of remaining +independent at Foweera. M'Gambi said they were very miserable on the +island, that no one could rest day or night for the mosquitoes, and that +they were suffering from famine;--he had several men with him, who at +once set to work to thrash out corn from the well-filled granaries of +the village, and they departed heavily laden. During the day a few +natives of the district found their way into the village for a similar +purpose. I had previously heard that the inhabitants of Foweera were +disaffected, and that many were in correspondence with the enemy. I +accordingly instructed Bacheeta to converse with the people, and to +endeavour through them to get into communication with the M'was, +assuring them that I should remain neutral, unless attacked, but if +their intentions were hostile I was quite ready to fight. At the same +time I instructed her to explain that I should be sorry to fire at the +servants of M'tese, as he had behaved well to my friends Speke and +Grant, but that the best way to avoid a collision would be for the M'was +to keep at a distance from my camp. Bacheeta told me that this assurance +would be certain to reach the chief of the M'was, as many of the natives +of Chopi were in league with them against Kamrasi. + +In the afternoon of that day I strolled outside the village with some of +my men to accompany the party to the drinking place from which we +procured our water; it was about a quarter of a mile from the camp, and +it was considered dangerous for any one to venture so far without the +protection of an armed party. + +We had just returned, and were standing in the cool of the evening on +the lawn opposite the entrance of the camp, when one of my men came +rushing towards us, shouting, "Richarn! Richarn's come back!" In another +moment I saw with extreme delight the jet black Richarn, whom I had +mourned as lost, quietly marching towards us. The meeting was almost +pathetic. I took him warmly by the hand and gave him a few words of +welcome, but my vakeel, who had never cared for him before, threw +himself upon his neck and burst out crying like a child. How long this +sobbing would have continued I know not, as several of my Arabs caught +the infection and began to be lachrymose, while Richarn, embraced on all +sides, stood the ordeal most stoically, looking extremely bewildered, +but totally unconscious of the cause of so much weeping. To change the +current of feeling, I told the boy Saat to fetch a large gourd-shell of +merissa (native beer), of which I had received a good supply from +Kalloe. This soon arrived, and was by far the most acceptable welcome to +Richarn, who drank like a whale. So large was the gourd, that even after +the mighty draught enough remained for the rest of the party to sip. +Refreshed by the much-loved drink, Richarn now told us his story. When +separated from Mahommed at the village he had found a great number of +people, some of whom were our runaway porters; on his attempting to +persuade them to return, a quarrel had taken place, and the chief of the +village heading his men had advanced on Richarn and seized his gun;--at +the same time the chief called to his men to kill him. Richarn drew his +knife to release his gun; seeing which, the chief relaxed his hold, and +stepping a pace back he raised his lance to strike;--at the same moment +Richarn pulled the trigger and shot him dead. The natives, +panic-stricken at the sudden effect of the shot, rushed away, and +Richarn, profiting by the opportunity, disappeared in the high grass, +and fled. Once in the interminable sea of grass that was almost +impenetrable, he wandered for two days without water: hearing the +distant roar of the Nile, he at length reached it when nearly exhausted +with thirst and fatigue;--he then followed up the stream to Karuma, +avoided the M'was,--and knowing the road thence to M'rooli that we had +formerly travelled, he arrived at Foweera. His ramrod had been broken in +the struggle when the chief seized his gun, and to his great +astonishment I now showed him the piece that we had picked up on the +pool of blood. He had made an excellent loading-rod with his hunting +knife by shaping a sapling of hard wood, and had reloaded his gun; thus +with a good supply of ammunition he had not much fear of the natives. +Kamrasi had evidently heard the true account of the affair. + +Late in the evening we heard from a native that the whole of Kalloe's +cattle that he had driven from Foweera had been captured by the enemy on +their way to the river island, and that one of his sons and several +natives who had driven them were killed;--this was the result of his +precipitate flight. + +The M'was followed up their advantages with uninterrupted success, +overrunning the entire country even to the shores of the Albert lake, +and driving off the cattle, together with all the women that had not +taken refuge upon the numerous islands of the Victoria Nile. During this +time, Kamrasi and his wives, together with his principal chiefs, resided +in the misery of mosquitoes and malaria on the river; great numbers of +people died of disease and starvation. + +M'Gambi appeared frequently at our camp in order to procure corn, and +from him we received reports of the distress of the people; his +appearance had much changed; he looked half starved, and complained that +he had nothing to drink but Nile water, as they had neither corn, nor +pots in which they could make merissa, and the M'was had destroyed all +the plantains, therefore they could not prepare cider. + +Among other losses my two cows were reported by M'Gambi to have been +stolen by the M'was, in company with the cattle of Kamrasi, with which +they had been driven from Kisoona. I did not believe it, as he also told +me that all the luggage that I had left at Deang had like wise been +stolen by the enemy. But I had heard from Bacheeta that the natives of +that neighbourhood had carried it (about six loads) direct to Kamrasi's +island; thus it was in his possession at the same time that he declared +it to have been stolen by the M'was. I told him, that I should hold him +responsible, and that he should pay me the value of the lost effects in +a certain number of cows. + +A few days after this conversation, my cows and the whole of my luggage +were delivered to me in safety. Kamrasi had evidently intended to +appropriate them, but being pressed by the M'was and his old enemies on +the east bank of the Nile (the Langgos), who had made common cause with +the invaders, the time was not favourable for a quarrel with either me +or the Turks. + +On the evening of the 19th September, a few days after this occurrence, +intelligence was brought into camp that Ibrahim and a hundred men had +arrived at Karuma Falls at the ferry by which we had formerly crossed +the river to Atada. I immediately despatched ten men to investigate the +truth of the report. In about two hours they returned in high spirits, +having exchanged greeting with Ibrahim and his party across the river. +Kamrasi had despatched boats to another ferry above the Falls to +facilitate the passage of the entire party on the following morning, as +he wished them to attack the M'was immediately. + +Not being desirous of such an encounter, the M'was, who had witnessed +the arrival of this powerful reinforcement, immediately retreated, and +by sunrise they had fallen back about twenty miles on the road to +M'rooli. + +On the morning of the 20th Ibrahim arrived, bringing with him the Post +from England; that being addressed to the consul at Khartoum had been +forwarded to Gondokoro by the annual boats, and taken charge of by +Ibrahim on his arrival at that station last April with ivory from the +interior. My letters were of very old dates, none under two years, with +the exception of one from Speke, who had sent me the Illustrated London +News, containing his portrait and that of Grant; also Punch, with an +illustration of Punch's discovery of the Nile sources. For a whole day I +revelled in the luxury of letters and newspapers. + +Ibrahim had very kindly thought of our necessities when at Gondokoro, +and had brought me a piece of coarse cotton cloth of Arab manufacture +(darmoor) for clothes for myself, and a piece of cotton print for a +dress for Mrs. Baker, in addition to a large jar of honey, and some rice +and coffee--the latter being the balance of my old stock that I bad +been obliged to forsake for want of porters at Shooa. He told me that +all my effects that I had left at Obbo had been returned to Gondokoro, +and that my two men, whom I had left in charge, had returned with them +to Khartoum, on board the vessel that had been sent for me from that +place, but which had joined the traders' boats on their return voyage. +Ibrahim had assured the captain that it was impossible that we could +arrive during that year. It was thus fortunate that we had not pushed on +for Gondokoro after April in expectation of finding the boat awaiting +us. However, "All's well that ends well," and Ibrahim was astounded at +our success, but rather shocked at our personal appearance, as we were +thin and haggard, and our clothes had been so frequently repaired that +they would hardly hold together. + +On the 23d September we moved our camp, and took possession of a village +within half a mile of the Victoria Nile. Kamrasi was now very valorous, +and returned from his island to a large village on the banks of the +river. He sent Ibrahim an immense quantity of ivory, in addition to the +store that had been concealed by Eddrees on our departure from Kisoona; +this was sent for, and in a few days it was safely deposited in the +general camp. Ibrahim was amazed at the fortune that awaited him. I +congratulated him most heartily on the success of the two expeditions-- +the geographical, and the ivory trade; the latter having far more than +fulfilled my promise. + +Kamrasi determined to invade the Langgo country immediately, as they had +received Fowooka after his defeat, and he was now residing with the +chief. Accordingly, eighty of Ibrahim's men were despatched across the +river, and in three days they destroyed a number of villages, and +captured about 200 head of cattle, together with a number of prisoners, +including many women. Great rejoicings took place on their return; +Ibrahim presented Kamrasi with a hundred cows, and in return for this +generosity the king sent thirty immense tusks, and promised a hundred +more within a few days. + +Another expedition was demanded, and was quickly undertaken with similar +success; this time Fowooka narrowly escaped, as a Turk fired at him, but +missed and killed a native who stood by him. On the return of the party, +Kamrasi received another present of cattle, and again the ivory flowed +into the camp. + +In the meantime, I had made myself excessively comfortable; we were in a +beautiful and highly cultivated district, in the midst of immense fields +of sweet potatoes. The idea struck me that I could manufacture spirit +from this source, as they were so excessively sweet as to be +disagreeable as a vegetable. Accordingly I collected a great number of +large jars that were used by the natives for brewing merissa; in these I +boiled several hundredweight of potatoes to a pulp. There were jars +containing about twenty gallons; these I filled with the pulp mashed +with water, to which I added yeast from a brewing of merissa. While this +mixture was fermenting I constructed my still, by fixing a jar of about +twelve gallons on a neat furnace of clay, and inserting the mouth of a +smaller jar upon the top; the smaller jar thus inverted became the dome +of the still. In the top of this I bored a hole, in which I fitted a +long reed of about an inch in diameter, which descended to my condenser; +the latter was the kettle, sunk by a weight in a large pan of cold +water. + +My still worked beautifully, and produced four or five bottles of good +spirit daily;--this I stored in large bottle gourds, containing about +four gallons each. My men were excessively fond of attending to the +distillery, especially Richarn, who took a deep interest in the +operation, but who was frequently found dead asleep on his back; the +fire out; and the still at a standstill. Of course he could not be +suspected of having tried the produce of his manufactory! I found an +extraordinary change in my health from the time that I commenced +drinking the potato whisky. Every day I drank hot toddy. I became +strong, and from that time to the present day my fever left me, +occurring only once or twice during the first six months, and then +quitting me entirely. Not having tasted either wine or spirits for +nearly two years, the sudden change from total abstinence to a moderate +allowance of stimulant produced a marvellous effect. Ibrahim and some of +his men established stills; several became intoxicated, which so +delighted M'Gambi, who happened to be present, that he begged a bottle +of spirit from Ibrahim as a sample for Kamrasi. It appears that the king +got drunk so quickly upon the potent spirit, that he had an especial +desire to repeat the dose--he called it the maroua (cider) of our +country, and pronounced it so far superior to his own that he determined +to establish a factory. When I explained to him that it was the produce +of sweet potatoes, he expressed his great regret that he had never +sufficiently appreciated their value, and he expressed a determination +to cultivate whole districts. Ibrahim was requested to leave one of his +men who understood the management of a still, to establish and undertake +the direction of "King Kamrasi's Central African Unyoro Potato-Whisky +Company, unlimited." + +Ibrahim had brought a variety of presents for Kamrasi: fifty pounds of +beads, a revolver pistol, cotton cloths, blue glass tumblers, +looking-glasses, &c. These donations, added to the pleasure afforded by +the defeat of his enemies, put his majesty into excellent humour, sad he +frequently came to visit us. On one occasion I gave him the portraits of +Speke and Grant: the latter he recognised immediately; he could not +understand the pictures in Punch, declaring that he (Punch) was not an +Englishman, as he neither resembled me nor Speke; but he was exceedingly +pleased with the Paris fashions in the Illustrated London News, which we +cut out with a pair of scissors, and gave him as specimens of English +ladies in full dress. + +The war being concluded by the total discomfiture of his enemies, +Kamrasi was determined to destroy all those inhabitants of Foweera who +had in any way connived as the attack of the M'was. Daily executions +took place in the summary manner already described, the victims being +captured, led before the king, and butchered in his presence without a +trial. + +Among others suspected as favourable to revolution was Kalloe, the chief +of Foweera; next to Kamrasi and M'Gambi he was the principal man in the +kingdom; he was much beloved by the entire population of Chopi and +Foweera, and I had always found him most intelligent and friendly. One +night, at about eight o'clock, Ibrahim came to my hut looking very +mysterious, and after assuring himself that no one was present, he +confided to me that he had received orders from Kamrasi to attack +Kalloe's village before daybreak on the following morning, to surround +his dwelling, and to shoot him as he attempted to escape; Ibrahim was +further instructed to capture the women and children of the village as +his perquisites. At the very moment that thus treacherous compact had +been entered into with Ibrahim, Kamrasi had pretended to be upon the +most friendly terms with Kalloe, who was then in his camp; but he did +not lay violent hands upon him, as, many of the natives being in his +favour, the consequences might have been disagreeable: thus he had +secretly ordered his destruction. I at once desired Ibrahim at all +hazards to renounce so horrible a design. Never did I feel so full of +revolution as at that moment; my first impulse was to assist Kalloe to +dethrone Kamrasi, and to usurp the kingdom. Ibrahim had an eye to +business; he knew, that should he offend Kamrasi there would be an end +to the ivory trade for the present. The country was so rich in ivory +that it was a perfect bank upon which he could draw without limit, +provided that he remained an ally of the king; but no trade could be +carried on with the natives, all business being prohibited by Kamrasi, +who himself monopolised the profits. In the event of war, not a tusk +would be obtained, as the ivory in possession of the natives was never +stored in their huts, but was concealed in the earth. The Turks were now +mercenaries employed by the king to do any bloody work that he might +require. + +Ibrahim was in a dilemma. I offered to take the entire onus upon myself. +That Kalloe should not be murdered I was determined; the old man had on +several occasions been very obliging to me and to my people, and I +resolved to save him at any risk. His son, perfectly unsuspicious of +evil, was at that moment in our camp, having fraternized with some of my +men. I sent for him immediately and explained the entire plot, +concluding by telling him to run that instant at full speed to his +father (about two miles distant), and to send away all the women and +children from the village, but to bring Kalloe to my hut; that I would +hoist the British flag, as I had done at Kisoona, and this should +protect him from the bloodthirsty Kamrasi, who would not dare to seize +him. Should he refuse to trust me, he must fly immediately, as the Turks +would attack the village before daybreak. Away started the astonished +son in the dark night at full speed along the well-known path, to give +the warning. + +I now arranged with Ibrahim that to avoid offending Kamrasi he should +make a false attack upon the village at the time appointed; he would +find it deserted, and there would be an end of the matter should Kalloe +prefer flight to trusting in my protection, which I felt sure he would. +Midnight arrived, and no signs of Kalloe had appeared; I went to sleep, +satisfied that he was safe. Before daybreak eighty men of the Turks' +party started upon their feigned expedition; in about two hours they +returned, having found the village deserted;--the bird had flown. I was +delighted at the success of this ruse, but I should have been more +satisfied had Kalloe placed himself in my hands: this I had felt sure he +would decline, as the character of the natives is generally so false and +mistrustful that he would suspect a snare. + +At about noon we heard yells; drums were beating and horns blowing in +all directions. For the moment I thought that Kalloe had raised the +country against Kamrasi, as I observed many hundred men dressed for war, +scouring the beautiful open park, like hounds upon a scent. The Turks +beat their drum and called their men under arms beneath the ensign +planted outside the village,--not knowing the intention of the unusual +gathering. It shortly transpired that Kamrasi had heard of the escape of +Kalloe, and, enraged at the loss of his prey, he had immediately started +about a thousand men in pursuit. + +In the evening I heard that he had been captured. I sent to Kamrasi +directly, to beg him to postpone his execution, as I wished to speak +with him on the following morning. + +At sunrise I started, and found the king sitting in his but, while +Kalloe was lying under a plantain tree perfectly resigned, with his leg +in the Kamrasi shoe--a block of wood of about four feet long and ten +inches thick (the rough trunk of a tree); his left foot had been thrust +through a small hole in the log, while a peg driven through at right +angles just above the instep effectually secured the prisoner. This was +a favourite punishment of the king; the prisoner might thus languish +until released by death; it was impossible to sit up, and difficult to +lie down, the log having to be adjusted by an attendant according to the +movement of the body. I told Kamrasi that as I had saved him from the +attack of the Turks at Kisoona he must grant me a favour, and spare +Kalloe's life: this request, to my astonishment, he at once granted, +[A few days afterwards he shot Kalloe with his own hands.] and +added, that he should only keep him in the "shoe" for a few days, until +his people should bring him a hundred cows as a fine, in which case he +should release him. I had no faith in his promise, as I had before heard +that it was his practice to put the shoe upon any rich man in order to +extract a fine, upon the payment of which the unfortunate prisoner was +on some occasions killed instead of liberated. However, I had done all +in my power; and had Kalloe been a man of determination, he could have +saved himself by trusting implicitly to me. As I returned to the camp, I +could not help reflecting on the ingratitude I had experienced among all +the natives; on many occasions I had exerted myself to benefit others in +whom I had no personal interest, but in no single instance had I ever +received even a look of gratitude. + +Two days after this occurrence I ordered the boy Saat to go as usual in +search of supplies to the neighbouring villages; but as he was starting, +Ibrahim advised him to wait a little, as something was wrong, and it +would be dangerous to go alone. A few minutes later, I heard three shots +fired in rapid succession at about three-quarters of a mile distant. The +Turks and my men immediately thronged outside the village, which +position being on a hill, we had a panoramic view of the surrounding +country. + +We shortly perceived a number of men, including a few of the Turks' +party, approaching from an opposite hill, carrying something heavy in +their arms. With the telescope I distinguished a mat on which some +object of weight was laboriously supported, the bearers grasping the +corners in their hands. "One of our people is killed!" murmured one +Turk. "Perhaps it's only a native," said another. "Who would trouble +himself to carry a black fellow home!" exclaimed a third. The mystery +was soon cleared by the arrival of the party with the dead body of one +of Kamrasi's headmen; one ball had struck him through the chest, another +through the right arm, and the third had passed through the body from +side to side. He had been shot by some Bari slaves who acted as soldiers +belonging to the Turks' party. It appeared that the deceased had +formerly sent seventy elephants' tusks to the people of Mahommed +Wat-el-Mek against the orders of Kamrasi, who had prohibited the export +of ivory from his kingdom, as he had agreed to deal exclusively with +Ibrahim. The culprit was therefore condemned to death, but having some +powerful adherents in his village, Kamrasi had thought it advisable to +employ the Turks to shoot him; this task they gladly accepted, as they +were minus seventy tusks through his conduct. Without my knowledge, a +small party had started in open daylight to his village close to our +camp, and on attempting to enter the fence, several lances were thrown +at the Turks; the deceased rushed from the hut attempting to escape, and +was immediately shot dead by three of the Bari soldiers. The hands were +then (as usual in all these countries) amputated at the wrists, in order +to detach the copper bracelets; the body being dragged about two hundred +paces from the village, was suspended by the neck to a branch of the +tamarind tree. All the slave women (about seventy) and children were +then driven down to the spot by the Turks to view the body as it swung +from the branch; when thoroughly horrified by the sight, they were +threatened to be served precisely in a similar manner should they ever +attempt to escape. + +Superlatively brutal as this appeared, I could not help reflecting that +our public executions in England convey a similar moral; the only +difference being in the conduct of the women; the savages having to be +DRIVEN to the sight as witnesses, while European females throng +curiously to such disgusting exhibitions. A few minutes after the +departure of the crowd, the tree was covered with vultures, all watching +the prospective feast. [The woman Bacheeta ran away, and we never saw +her again. Some time after, we heard that she had escaped to Fowooka's +people, fearing to be left by us, as we had promised, in Chopi.] + +In the evening Kamrasi sent a number of women and children as presents +to Ibrahim: altogether he had given him seventy-two slaves in addition +to those captured in the various wars. There never was a more supreme +despot than the king Kamrasi--not only the property, but the families +of his subjects were at his disposal; he boasted that "all belonged to +him." Thus, when disposed to be liberal, he took from others and +bestowed upon his favourites; should any sufferer complain, there were +no lawyer's costs, but the "shoe," or death. His power depended upon a +perfect system of espionage, by which he obtained a knowledge of all +that passed throughout his kingdom; that being divided into numerous +small districts, each governed by a chief, who was responsible for the +acts committed within his jurisdiction, the government was wonderfully +simplified. Should a complaint be made against a governor, he was +summoned before the king; if guilty, death, or the "shoe!" To be +suspected of rebellion, was to die. A bodyguard of about 500 men, who +were allowed to pillage the country at discretion, secured the power of +the king, as with this organized force always at hand he could pounce +upon the suspected and extinguish them at once: thus the tyrant held his +sway over a population so timid that they yielded tamely to his +oppression. Having now allied himself to the Turks, he had conceived the +most ambitious views of conquering Uganda, and of restoring the ancient +kingdom of Kitwara; but the total absence of physical courage will +utterly frustrate such plans for extension, and Kamrasi the Cruel will +never be known as Kamrasi the Conqueror. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +KAMRASI'S ADIEU. + +It was the middle of November--not the wretched month that chills even +the recollection of Old England, but the last of the ten months of rain +that causes the wonderful vegetation of the fertile soil in Equatorial +Africa. The Turks were ready to return to Shooa, and I longed for the +change from this brutal country to the still wilder but less bloody +tribe of Madi, to the north. + +The quantity of ivory in camp was so large that we required 700 porters +to carry both tusks and provisions, &c. for the five days' march through +uninhabited country. Kamrasi came to see us before we parted; he had +provided the requisite porters. We were to start on the following day; +he arrived with the Blissett rifle that had been given him by Speke. He +told me that he was sorry we were going; and he was much distressed that +he had burst his rifle!--he had hammered a large bullet in the endeavour +to fit the bore; and the lump of lead having stuck in the middle, he had +fired his rifle and split the barrel, which being of remarkably good +metal had simply opened. He told me that it did not matter so very much +after all, as he had neither powder nor ball (this was false, as Ibrahim +had just given him a quantity), therefore his rifle would have been +useless if sound; but he added, "You are now going home, where you can +obtain all you require, therefore you will want for nothing; give me, +before you leave, the little double-barrelled rifle that YOU PROMISED +me, and a supply of ammunition!" To the last moment he was determined to +persevere in his demand, and, if possible, to obtain my handy little +Fletcher 24 rifle, that had been demanded and refused ever since my +residence in his country. I was equally persistent in my refusal, +telling him that there were many dangers on the road, and I could not +travel unarmed. + +On the following morning our people crossed the river: this was a +tedious operation, as our party consisted of about 700 porters and +eighty armed men: Ibrahim had arranged to leave thirty men with Kamrasi +to protect him from the M'was until he should return in the following +season, when he promised to bring him a great variety of presents. By 4 +P.M. the whole party had crossed the river with ivory and baggage. We +now brought up the rear, and descended some fine crags of granite to the +water's edge; there were several large canoes in attendance, one of +which we occupied, and, landing on the opposite shore, we climbed up the +steep ascent and looked back upon Unyoro, in which we had passed ten +months of wretchedness. It had poured with rain on the preceding day, +and the natives had constructed a rough camp of grass huts. + +On the break of day on the 17th November we started. It would be tedious +to describe the journey, as, although by a different route, it was +through the same country that we had traversed on our arrival from +Shooa. After the first day's march we quitted the forest and entered +upon the great prairies. I was astonished to find after several days' +journey a great difference in the dryness of the climate. In Unyoro we +had left the grass an intense green, the rain having been frequent: here +it was nearly dry, and in many places it had been burnt by the native +hunting parties. From some elevated points in the route I could +distinctly make out the outline of the mountains running from the Albert +lake to the north, on the west bank of the Nile; these would hardly have +been observed by a person who was ignorant of their existence, as the +grass was so high that I had to ascend a white ant-hill to look for +them; they were about sixty miles distant, and my men, who knew them +well, pointed them out to their companions. + +The entire party, including women and children, amounted to about 1,000 +people. Although they had abundance of flour, there was no meat, and the +grass being high there was no chance of game. On the fourth day only I +saw a herd of about twenty tetel (hartebeest) in an open space that had +been recently burnt. We were both riding upon oxen that I had purchased +of Ibrahim, and we were about a mile ahead of the flag in the hope of +getting a shot; dismounting from my animal, I stalked the game down a +ravine, but upon reaching the point that I had resolved upon for the +shot, I found the herd had moved their position to about 250 paces from +me. They were all looking at me, as they had been disturbed by the oxen +and the boy Saat in the distance. Dinner depended on the shot. There was +a leafless bush singed by the recent fire; upon a branch of this I took +a rest, but just as I was going to fire they moved off--a clean miss! +--whizz went the bullet over them, but so close to the ears of one that +it shook its head as though stung by a wasp, and capered round and +round; the others stood perfectly still, gazing at the oxen in the +distance. Crack went the left-hand barrel of the little Fletcher 24, +and down went a tetel like a lump of lead, before the satisfactory sound +of the bullet returned from the distance. Off went the herd, leaving a +fine beast kicking on the ground. It was shot through the spine, and +some of the native porters, having witnessed the sport from a great +distance, threw down their loads and came racing towards the meat like a +pack of wolves scenting blood. In a few minutes the prize was divided, +while a good portion was carried by Saat for our own use; the tetel, +weighing about 500 lbs. vanished among the crowd in a few minutes. + +On the fifth day's march from the Victoria Nile we arrived at Shooa; the +change was delightful after the wet and dense vegetation of Unyoro: the +country was dry, and the grass low and of fine quality. We took +possession of our camp, that had already been prepared for us in a large +courtyard well cemented with cow-dung and clay, and fenced with a strong +row of palisades. A large tree grew in the centre. Several hits were +erected for interpreters and servants, and a tolerably commodious hut, +the roof overgrown with pumpkins, was arranged for our mansion. + +That evening the native women crowded to our camp to welcome my wife +home, and to dance in honour of our return; for which exhibition they +expected a present of a cow. + +Much to my satisfaction, I found that my first-rate riding ox that had +been lamed during the previous year by falling into a pitfall, and had +been returned to Shooa, was perfectly recovered; thus I had a good mount +for my journey to Gondokoro. + +Some months were passed at Shooa, during which I occupied my time by +rambling about the neighbourhood, ascending the mountain, making +duplicates of my maps, and gathering information, all of which was +simply a corroboration of what I had heard before, excepting from the +East. The Turks had discovered a new country called Lira, about thirty +miles from Shooa; the natives were reported as extremely friendly, and +their country as wonderfully fertile and rich in ivory. Many of the +people were located in the Turks' camp; they were the same type as the +Madi, but wore their hair in a different form: it was woven into a thick +felt, which covered the shoulders, and extended as low upon the back as +the shoulderblade. + +They were not particular about wearing false hair, but were happy to +receive subscriptions from any source; in case of death the hair of the +deceased was immediately cut off and shared among his friends to be +added to their felt. When in full dress (the men being naked) this mass +of felt was plastered thickly with a bluish clay, so as to form an even +surface; this was most elaborately worked with the point of a thorn, so +as to resemble the cuttings of a file: white pipe-clay was then arranged +in patterns on the surface, while an ornament made of either an +antelope's or giraffe's sinew was stuck in the extremity and turned up +for about a foot in length. This when dry was as stiff as horn, and the +tip was ornamented with a tuft of fur--the tip of a leopard's tail +being highly prized. + +I am not aware that any Lord Chancellor of England or any member of the +English bar has ever penetrated to Central Africa, therefore the origin +of the fashion and the similarity in the wigs is most extraordinary; a +well-blacked barrister in full wig and nothing else would thoroughly +impersonate a native of Lira. The tribe of Lira was governed by a chief; +but he had no more real authority than any of the petty chiefs who ruled +the various portions of the Madi country. Throughout the tribes +excepting the kingdom of Unyoro, the chiefs had very little actual +power, and so uncertain was their tenure of office that the rule seldom +remained two generations in one family. On the death of the father, the +numerous sons generally quarrelled for his property and for the right of +succession, ending in open war, and in dividing the flocks and herds, +each settling in a separate district and becoming a petty chief; thus +there was no union throughout the country, and consequently great +weakness. The people of Lira were fighting with their friends the +Langgos--those of Shooa with the natives of Fatiko; nor were there two +neighbouring tribes that were at peace. It was natural that such +unprincipled parties as the Khartoum traders should turn this general +discord to their own advantage; thus within the ten months that I had +been absent from Shooa a great change had taken place in the +neighbourhood. The rival parties of Koorshid and Debono, under their +respective leaders, Ibrahim and Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, had leagued +themselves with contending tribes, and the utter ruin of the country was +the consequence. For many miles' circuit from Shooa, the blackened ruins +of villages and deserted fields bore witness to the devastation +committed; cattle that were formerly in thousands, had been driven off, +and the beautiful district that had once been most fertile was reduced +to a wilderness. By these wholesale acts of robbery and destruction the +Turks had damaged their own interests, as the greater number of the +natives had fled to other countries; thus it was most difficult to +obtain porters to convey the ivory to Gondokoro. The people of the +country had been so spoiled by the payment in cows instead of beads for +the most trifling services, that they now refused to serve as porters to +Gondokoro under a payment of four cows each; thus, as 1,000 men were +required, 4,000 cows were necessary as payment. Accordingly razzia must +be made. + +Upon several expeditions, the Turks realized about 2,000 cows; the +natives had become alert, and had driven off their herds to inaccessible +mountains. Debono's people at their camp, about twenty-five miles +distant, were even in a worse position than Ibrahim; they had so +exasperated the natives by their brutal conduct, that tribes formerly +hostile to each other now coalesced and combined to thwart the Turks by +declining to act as porters; thus their supply of ivory could not be +transported to Gondokoro. This led to extra violence on the part of the +Turks, until at last the chief of Faloro (Werdella) declared open war, +and suddenly driving off the Turks' cattle, he retired to the mountains, +from whence he sent an impertinent message inviting Mahommed to try to +rescue them. + +This act of insolence united the rival trading parties against Werdella: +those of Ibrahim and Mahommed agreed to join in an attack upon his +village. They started with a force of about 300 armed men, and arriving +at the foot of the mountains at about 4 A.M. they divided their force +into two parties of 150 men each, and ascended the rocky hill upon two +sides, intending to surprise the village on one side, while the natives +and their herds would be intercepted in their flight upon the other. + +The chief, Werdella, was well experienced in the affairs of the Turks, +as he had been for two or three years engaged with them in many razzias +upon the adjoining tribes--he had learnt to shoot while acting as +their ally, and having received as presents two muskets, and two brace +of pistols from Debono's nephew Amabile, he thought it advisable to +supply himself with ammunition; he had therefore employed his people to +steal a box of 500 cart ridges and a parcel containing 10,000 percussion +caps from Mahommed's camp. Werdella was a remarkably plucky fellow; and +thus strengthened by powder and ball, and knowing the character of the +Turks, he resolved to fight. + +Hardly had the Turks' party of 150 men advanced half way up the mountain +path in their stealthy manner of attempting a surprise, when they were +assailed by a shower of arrows, and the leader who carried the flag fell +dead at the report of a musket fired from behind a rock. Startled at +this unexpected attack, the Turks' party recoiled, leaving their flag +upon the ground by the dead standard-bearer. Before they had time to +recover from their first panic, another shot was fired from the same +shelter at a distance of about thirty paces, and the brains of one of +the Turks' party were splattered over his comrades, as the ball took the +top of his head completely off. Three Bagara Arabs, first-rate elephant +hunters, who were with the Turks, now rushed forward and saved the flag +and a box of ammunition that the porter had thrown down in his flight. +These Arabs, whose courage was of a different class to that of the +traders' party, endeavoured to rally the panic-stricken Turks, but just +as they were feebly and irresolutely advancing, another shot rang from +the same fatal rock, and a man who carried a box of cartridges fell +dead. This was far too hot for the traders' people, who usually had it +all their own way, being alone possessed of firearms. A disgraceful +flight took place, but Werdella was again too much for them. On their +arrival at the bottom of the hill, they ran round the base to join the +other division of their party; this effected, they were consulting +together as to retreat or advance, when close above their heads from an +overhanging rock another shot was fired, and a man dropped, shot through +the chest. The head of Werdella was distinctly seen grinning in triumph; +--the whole party fired at him! "He's down!" was shouted, as the head +disappeared;--a puff of smoke from the rock, and a shriek from one of +the Turks at the sound of another musket shot from the same spot, +settled the question; a man fell mortally wounded. Four men were shot +dead, and one was brought home by the crestfallen party to die in two or +three days; five shots had been fired, and five killed, by one native +armed with two guns against 300 men. "Bravo, Werdella!" I exclaimed, as +the beaten party returned to camp and Ibrahim described the fight. He +deserved the Victoria Cross. This defeat completely cowed the cowardly +Turks; nor would any persuasions on the part of Ibrahim induce them to +make another razzia within the territory of the redoubted chief, +Werdella. + +During the absence of the traders' party upon various expeditions, about +fifty men were left in their camp as headquarters. Nothing could exceed +the brutality of the people; they had erected stills, and produced a +powerful corn spirit from the native merissa; their entire time was +passed in gambling, drinking, and fighting, both by night and day. The +natives were ill-treated, their female slaves and children brutally +ill-used, and the entire camp was a mere slice from the infernal +regions. My portion of the camp being a secluded courtyard, we were +fortunately independent. + +On one occasion a razzia had been made; and although unsuccessful in +cattle, it had been productive in slaves. Among the captives was a +pretty young girl of about fifteen; she had been sold by auction in the +camp, as usual, the day after the return from the razzia, and had fallen +to the lot of one of the men. Some days after her capture, a native from +the village that had been plundered confidently arrived at the camp with +the intention of offering ivory for her ransom. Hardly had he entered +the gateway, when the girl, who was sitting at the door of her owner's +hut, caught sight of him, and springing to her feet, she ran as fast as +her chained ankles would allow her, and threw herself in his arms, +exclaiming, "My father!" It was her father, who had thus risked his life +in the enemy's camp to ransom his child. + +The men who were witnesses to this scene immediately rushed upon the +unfortunate man, tore him from his daughter, and bound him tightly with +cords. + +While this was enacting, I happened to be in my hut; thus I was not an +eye-witness. About an hour later, I called some of my men to assist me +in cleaning some rifles. Hardly had we commenced, when three shots were +fired within a hundred paces of my hut. My men exclaimed, "They have +shot the Abid (native)!" "What native?" I inquired. They then related +the story I have just described. Brutal as these bloodthirsty villains +were, I could hardly believe in so cold-blooded a murder. I immediately +sent my people and the boy Saat to verify it; they returned with the +report that the wretched father was sitting on the ground, bound to a +tree, dead; shot by three balls. + +I must do Ibrahim the justice to explain that he was not in the camp; +had he been present, this murder would not have been committed, as he +scrupulously avoided any such acts in my vicinity. A few days later, a +girl about sixteen, and her mother, who were slaves, were missing; they +had escaped. The hue and cry was at once raised. Ibrahimawa, the +"Sinbad" of Bornu, who had himself been a slave, was the most +indefatigable slave-hunter. He and a party at once started upon the +tracks of the fugitives. They did not return until the following day; +but where was the runaway who could escape from so true a bloodhound? +The young girl and her mother were led into camp tied together by the +neck, and were immediately condemned to be hanged. I happened to be +present, as, knowing the whole affair, I had been anxiously awaiting the +result. I took this opportunity of explaining to the Turks that I would +use any force to prevent such an act, and that I would report the names +of all those to the Egyptian authorities who should commit any murder +that I could prove; neither would I permit the two captives to be +flogged--they were accordingly pardoned. [It will be observed that at +this period of the expedition I had acquired an extraordinary influence +over the people, that enabled me to exert an authority which saved the +lives of many unfortunate creatures who would otherwise have been +victims.] + +There was among the slaves a woman who had been captured in the attack +upon Fowooka. This woman I have already mentioned as having a very +beautiful boy, who at the time of the capture was a little more than a +year old. + +So determined was her character, that she had run away five times with +her child, but on every occasion she had been recaptured, after having +suffered much by hunger and thirst in endeavouring to find her way back +to Unyoro through the uninhabited wilderness between Shooa and Karuma. +On the last occasion of her capture, the Turks had decided upon her +being incorrigible, therefore she had received 144 blows with the +coorbatch (hippopotamus whip), and had been sold separately from her +child to the party belonging to Mahommed Wat-el-Mek. Little Abbai had +always been a great pet of Mrs. Baker's, and the unfortunate child being +now motherless, he was naturally adopted, and led a most happy life. +Although much under two years old, he was quite equal in precocity to a +European child of three; in form and strength he was a young Hercules, +and, although so young, he would frequently follow me out shooting for +two or three miles, and return home with a guinea-fowl hanging over his +shoulder, or his hands full of pigeons. Abbai became very civilized; he +was taught to make a Turkish "salaam" upon receiving a present, and to +wash his hands both before and after his meals. He had the greatest +objection to eat alone, and he generally invited three or four friends +of about his own age to dine with him; on such occasions, a large wooden +bowl, about twenty inches in diameter, was filled with soup and +porridge, around which steaming dish the young party sat, happier in +their slavery than kings in power. There were two lovely girls of three +and eight years of age that belonged to Ibrahim; these were not black, +but of the same dark brown tint as Kamrasi and many of the Unyoro +people. Their mother was also there, and their history being most +pitiable, they were always allowed free access to our hut and the dinner +bowl. These two girls were the daughters of Owine, one of the great +chiefs who were allied with Fowooka against Kamrasi. After the defeat of +Fowooka, Owine and many of his people with their families quitted the +country, and forming an alliance with Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, they settled +in the neighbourhood of his camp at Faloro, and built a village. For +some time they were on the best terms, but some cattle of the Turks +being missed, suspicion fell upon the new settlers. The men of +Mahommed's party desired that they might be expelled, and Mahommed, in a +fit of drunken fury, at once ordered them to be MASSACRED. His men, +eager for murder and plunder, immediately started upon their bloody +errand, and surrounding the unsuspecting colony, they fired the huts and +killed EVERY MAN, including the chief, Owine; capturing the women and +children as slaves. Ibrahim had received the mother and two girls as +presents from Mahommed Wat-el-Mek. As the two rival companies had been +forced to fraternize, owing to the now generally hostile attitude of the +surrounding tribes, the leaders had become wonderfully polite, +exchanging presents, getting drunk together upon raw spirits, and +behaving in a brotherly manner--according to their ideas of +fraternity. There was a peculiar charm in the association with children +in this land of hardened hearts and savage natures: there is a time in +the life of the most savage animal when infancy is free from the fierce +instincts of race; even the lion's whelp will fondle the hand that it +would tear in riper years: thus, separated in this land of horrors from +all civilization, and forced by hard necessity into the vicinity of all +that was brutal and disgusting, it was an indescribable relief to be +surrounded by those who were yet innocent, and who clung in their +forsaken state to those who looked upon them with pity. We had now six +little dependents, none of whom could ever belong to us, as they were +all slaves, but who were well looked after by my wife; fed, amused, and +kept clean. The boy Abbai was the greatest favourite, as, having neither +father nor mother, he claimed the greatest care: he was well washed +every morning, and then to his great delight smeared all over from head +to toes with red ochre and grease, with a cock's feather stuck in his +woolly pate. He was then a most charming pet savage, and his toilette +completed, he invariably sat next to his mistress, drinking a +gourd-shell of hot milk, while I smoked my early morning pipe beneath +the tree. I made bows and arrows for my boys, and taught them to shoot +at a mark, a large pumpkin being carved into a man's head to excite +their aim. Thus the days were passed until the evening; at that time a +large fire was lighted to create a blaze, drums were collected, and +after dinner a grand dance was kept up by the children, until the young +Abbai ended regularly by creeping under my wife's chair, and falling +sound asleep: from this protected spot he was carried to his mat, +wrapped up in a piece of old flannel (the best cloth we had), in which +he slept till morning. Poor little Abbai! I often wonder what will be +his fate, and whether in his dreams he recalls the few months of +happiness that brightened his earliest days of slavery. + +Although we were in good health in Shooa, many of the men were ill, +suffering generally from headache; also from ulcerated legs;--the +latter was a peculiar disease, as the ulcer generally commenced upon the +ankle bone and extended to such a degree that the patient was rendered +incapable of walking. The treatment for headache among all the savage +tribes was a simple cauterization of the forehead in spots burnt with a +hot iron close to the roots of the hair. The natives declared that the +water was unwholesome from the small stream at the foot of the hill and +that all those who drank from the well were in good health. I went down +to examine the spring, which I found beautifully clear, while the +appearance of the stream was quite sufficient to explain the opposite +quality. As I was walking quietly along the bank, I saw a bright ray of +light in the grass upon the opposite side; in another moment I perceived +the head of a crocodile which was concealed in the grass, the brightness +of the sun's reflection upon the eye having attracted my attention. A +shot with the little 24 rifle struck just above the eye and killed it; +--it was a female, from which we extracted several large eggs, all with +hard shells. + +The shooting that I had while at Shooa was confined to antelopes; of +these there was no variety excepting waterbuck and hartebeest. Whenever +I shot an animal the Shooa natives would invariably cut its throat, and +drink the hot blood as it gushed from the artery. In this neighbourhood +there was a great scarcity of game the natives of Lira described their +country as teeming with elephants and rhinoceros; a fine horn of the +latter they brought with them to Shooa. There is only one variety of +rhinoceros that I have met with in the portions of Africa that I have +visited: this is the two-horned, a very exact sketch of which I made of +the head of one that I cut off after I had shot it. This two-horned +black rhinoceros is extremely vicious. I have remarked that they almost +invariably charge any enemy that they smell, but do not see; they +generally retreat if they observe the object before obtaining the wind. + +In my rambles in search of game, I found two varieties of cotton growing +indigenous to the country: one with a yellow blossom was so short in the +staple as to be worthless, but the other (a red blossom) produced a fine +quality that was detached with extreme ease from the seeds. A sample of +this variety I brought to England, and deposited the seed at the Royal +Botanical Gardens at Kew. A large quantity was reported to be grown at +Lira, some of which was brought me by the chief; this was the inferior +kind. I sketched the old chief of Lira, who when in full dress wore a +curious ornament of cowrie shells upon his felt wig that gave him a most +comical appearance, as he looked like the caricature of an English +judge. The Turks had extended their excursions in their search for +ivory, and they returned from an expedition sixty miles east of Shooa, +bringing with them two donkeys that they had obtained from the natives. +This was an interesting event, as for nearly two years I had heard from +the natives of Latooka, and from those of Unyoro, that donkeys existed +in a country to the east. These animals were the same in appearance as +those of the Soudan; the natives never rode, but simply used them to +transport wood from the forest to their villages; the people were +reported as the same in language and appearance as the Lira tribe. + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +THE NATIVES IN MOURNING. + +The hour of deliverance from our long sojourn in Central Africa was at +hand; it was the month of February, and the boats would be at Gondokoro. +The Turks had packed their ivory; the large tusks were fastened to poles +to be carried by two men, and the camp was a perfect mass of this +valuable material. I counted 609 loads of upwards of 50 lbs. each; +thirty-one loads were lying at an outstation: therefore the total +results of the ivory campaign during the last twelve months were about +32,000 lbs., equal to about 9,630 pounds when delivered in Egypt. This +was a perfect fortune for Koorshid. + +We were ready to start. My baggage was so unimportant that I was +prepared to forsake everything, and to march straight for Gondokoro +independently with my own men; but this the Turks assured me was +impracticable, as the country was so hostile in advance that we must of +necessity have some fighting on the road; the Bari tribe would dispute +our right to pass through their territory. + +The porters were all engaged to transport the ivory, but I observed that +the greater number were in mourning for either lost friends or cattle, +having ropes twisted round their necks and waists, as marks of sorrow. + +About 800 men received payment of cattle in advance; the next day they +had all absconded with their cows, having departed during the night. +This was a planned affair to "spoil the Egyptians:" a combination had +been entered into some months before by the Madi and Shooa tribes, to +receive payment and to abscond, but to leave the Turks helpless to +remove their stock of ivory. The people of Mahommed Wat-el-Mek were in a +similar dilemma; not a tusk could be delivered at Gondokoro. + +This was not my affair. The greater portion of Ibrahim's immense store +of ivory had been given to him by Kamrasi; I had guaranteed him a +hundred cantars (10,000 lbs.) should he quit Obbo and proceed to the +unknown south; in addition to a large quantity that he had collected and +delivered at Gondokoro in the past year, he had now more than three +times that amount. Although Kamrasi had on many occasions offered the +ivory to me, I had studiously avoided the acceptance of a single tusk, +as I wished the Turks to believe that I would not mix myself up with +trade in any form, and that my expedition had purely the one object that +I had explained to Ibrahim when I first won him over on the road to +Ellyria more than two years ago, "the discovery of the Albert lake." +With a certain number of presents of first class forty-guinea rifles and +guns, &c. &c., to Ibrahim, I declared my intention of starting for +Gondokoro. My trifling articles of baggage were packed: a few of the +Lira natives were to act as porters, as, although the ivory could not be +transported, it was necessary for Ibrahim to send a strong party to +Gondokoro to procure ammunition and the usual supplies forwarded +annually from Khartoum; the Lira people who carried my luggage would act +as return porters. + +The day arrived for our departure; the oxen were saddled and we were +ready to start. Crowds of people came to say "goodbye," but, dispensing +with the hand-kissing of the Turks who were to remain in camp, we +prepared for our journey towards HOME. Far away although it was, every +step would bring us nearer. Nevertheless there were ties even in this +wild spot, where all was savage and unfeeling--ties that were painful +to sever, and that caused a sincere regret to both of us when we saw our +little flock of unfortunate slave children crying at the idea of +separation. In this moral desert, where all humanized feelings were +withered and parched like the sands of the Soudan, the guilelessness of +the children had been welcomed like springs of water, as the only +refreshing feature in a land of sin and darkness. "Where are you going?" +cried poor little Abbai in the broken Arabic that we had taught him. +"Take me with you, Sitty!" (lady), and he followed us down the path, as +we regretfully left our proteges, with his fists tucked into his eyes, +weeping from his heart, although for his own mother he had not shed a +tear. We could not take him with us;--he belonged to Ibrahim; and had I +purchased the child to rescue him from his hard lot and to rear him as a +civilized being, I might have been charged with slave dealing. With +heavy hearts we saw him taken up in the arms of a woman and carried back +to camp, to prevent him from following our party, that had now started. + +We had turned our backs fairly upon the south, and we now travelled for +several days through most beautiful park-like lands, crossing twice the +Un-y-Ame stream, that rises in the country between Shooa and Unyoro, and +arriving at the point of junction of this river with the Nile, in +latitude 3 degrees 32 minutes N. On the north bank of the Un-y-Ame, +about three miles from the embouchure of that river where it flows into +the Nile, the tamarind tree was shown me that forms the limit of Signor +Miani's journey from Gondokoro, the extreme point reached by any +traveller from the north until the date of my expedition. This tree bore +the name of "Shedder-el-Sowar" (the traveller's tree), by which it was +known to the traders' parties. Several of the men belonging to Ibrahim, +also Mahommed Wat-el-Mek, the vakeel of Debono's people, had accompanied +Signor Miani on his expedition to this spot. Loggo, the Bari +interpreter, who had constantly acted for me during two years, happened +to have been the interpreter of Signor Miani; he confessed to me how he +had been compelled by his master's escort to deceive him, by pretending +that a combined attack was to be made upon them by the natives. + +Upon this excuse, Miani's men refused to proceed, and determined to turn +back to Gondokoro; thus ended his expedition. I regarded the tree that +marked the limit of his journey with much sympathy. I remembered how I +had formerly contended with similar difficulties, and how heartbreaking +it would have been to have returned, baffled by the misconduct of my own +people, when the determination of my heart urged me forward to the +south; thus I appreciated the disappointment that so enterprising a +traveller must have felt in sorrowfully cutting his name upon the tree, +and leaving it as a record of misfortune. + +With a just tribute to the perseverance that had carried him farther +than any European traveller had penetrated before him, we continued our +route over a most beautiful park of verdant grass, diversified by +splendid tamarind trees, the dark foliage of which afforded harbour for +great numbers of the brilliant yellow-breasted pigeon. We shortly +ascended a rocky mountain by a stony and difficult pass, and upon +arrival at the summit, about 800 feet above the Nile, which lay in front +at about two miles' distance, we halted to enjoy the magnificent view. +"Hurrah for the old Nile!" I exclaimed, as I revelled in the scene +before me: here it was, fresh from its great parent, the Albert lake, in +all the grandeur of Africa's mightiest river. From our elevated point we +looked down upon a broad sheet of unbroken water, winding through marshy +ground, flowing from W.S.W. The actual breadth of clear water, +independent of the marsh and reedy banks, was about 400 yards, but, as +usual in the deep and flat portions of the White Nile, the great extent +of reeds growing in deep water rendered any estimate of the positive +width extremely vague. We could discern the course of this great river +for about twenty miles, and distinctly, trace the line of mountains on +the west bank that we had seen at about sixty miles' distance when on +the route from Karuma to Shooa; the commencement of this chain we had +seen when at Magungo, forming the Koshi frontier of the Nile. The +country opposite to the point on which we now stood was Koshi, which, +forming the west bank of the Nile, extended the entire way to the Albert +lake. The country that we occupied was Madi, which extended as the east +bank of the Nile to the angle of the Victoria Nile (or Somerset river) +junction opposite Magungo. These two countries, Koshi and Madi, we had +seen from Magungo when we had viewed the exit of the Nile from the lake, +as though a tail-like continuation of the water, until lost in the +distance of the interminable valley of high reeds. Having, from Magungo, +in lat. 2 degrees l6 minutes, looked upon the course of the river far to +the north, and from the high pass, our present point, in lat. 3 degrees +34 min. N., we now comprised an extensive view of the river to the +south; the extremities of the limits of view from north and south would +almost meet, and leave a mere trifle of a few miles not actually +inspected. + +Exactly opposite the summit of the pass from which we now scanned the +country, rose the precipitous mountain known as Gebel Kookoo, which rose +to a height of about 2,500 feet above the level of the Nile, and formed +the prominent feature of a chain which bordered the west bank of the +Nile with few breaks to the north, until within thirty miles of +Gondokoro. The pass upon which we stood was the southern extremity of a +range of high rocky hills that formed the east cliff of the Nile; thus +the broad and noble stream that arrived from the Albert lake in a sheet +of unbroken water received the Un-y-Ame river, and then suddenly entered +the pass between the two chains of hills,--Gebel Kookoo on the west, +and the ridge that we now occupied upon the east. The mouth of the +Un-y-Ame river was the limit of navigation from the Albert lake. As far +as the eye could reach to the southwest, the country was dead flat and +marshy throughout the course of the river; this appearance proving the +correctness of the information I had received from the natives of +Unyoro, and from Kamrasi himself, that the Nile was navigable for some +days' journey from the Albert lake. Precisely the same information had +been given to Speke, and the river level at this point showed by his +thermometer so great a difference between that of Karuma, that he had +concluded the fall of 1,000 feet must exist between the foot of Karuma +Falls and the Albert lake; this, as already described, I proved to be +1,275 feet. + +It would be impossible to describe the calm enjoyment of the scene from +this elevated pass, from which we confirmed the results of our own +labours and of Speke's well-reflected suggestions. We were now on the +track by which he and Gant had returned; but I believe they had rounded +the foot of the hill that we had ascended; the two routes led to the +same point, as our course brought us at right angles with the Nile that +flowed beneath us. Descending the pass through a thorny jungle, we +arrived at the river, and turning suddenly to the north, we followed its +course for about a mile, and then bivouacked for the evening. The Nile, +having entered the valley between Gebel Kookoo and the western range, +was no longer the calm river that we had seen to the south: numerous +rocky islands blocked its course, and mud-banks covered with papyrus +rush so obstructed the stream that the river widened to about a +mile,---this width was composed of numerous channels, varying in breadth +between the obstructing rock and island. Upon one of the rush-covered +islands a herd of elephants was discovered, almost concealed by the +height of the vegetation. As they approached the edge of the water and +became exposed, I tried about twenty shots at them with the Fletcher +rifle, sighted to 600 yards, but in no instance could I either touch or +disturb them by the bullets;---this will afford some idea of the width +of the river, the island appearing to be in the middle of the stream. + +A short distance below this spot, the Nile rapidly contracted, and at +length became a roaring torrent, passing through a narrow gorge between +perpendicular cliffs, with a tremendous current. In some places the +great river was pent up between rocks, which confined it to a width of +about 120 yards, through such channels the rush of water was terrific, +but to a casual observer approaching from the north, the volume of the +Nile would have been underrated, unless calculated by the velocity of +the stream. + +From this point we followed the bank of the Nile over a difficult route, +down steep ravines and up precipitous crags, by a winding path along the +foot of the range of syenite hills that hemmed in the river on the west +bank. Several considerable waterfalls added to the grandeur of the pass, +through which for many miles the angry Nile chafed and roared like a +lion in its confined den. + +At length we arrived at a steep descent, and dismounting from our oxen +after a walk of about a quarter of a mile over rough stones, we reached +the Asua river, about a quarter of a mile above its junction with the +Nile. The bed was rocky; but although the Atabbi had subscribed its +waters above the point where we now crossed, there was merely a trifling +stream occupying about a quarter of the river's bed, with a current of +about two and a half miles an hour. Crossing this on foot, the water in +the deepest part reached to the middle of my thighs. The Asua river, as +already described at the time that I crossed it on the route from +Farajoke to Shooa, is a mountain torrent formidable during the rains; +quickly flooding and quickly emptying from its rapid inclination, it is +exhausted during the dry season. + +The crossing of this river was a signal for extra precaution in the +arrangement of our march: we had entered the territory of the ever +hostile Bari tribe; we had been already warned that we could not pass to +Gondokoro without being attacked. + +We slept on the road, about seven miles to the north of the Asua. On the +following morning we started. The route led over a fine country parallel +with the Nile, that still continued in a rockbound channel on the west +of the march. Throughout the route from the Un-y-Ame junction, the soil +had been wretchedly poor, a mass of rock and decomposed granite forming +a sand that quickly parched during the dry season. The level of the +country being about 200 feet above the Nile, deep gullies cut the route +at right angles, forming the natural drains to the river. + +In these ravines grew dense thickets of bamboos. Having no native guide, +but trusting solely to the traders' people, who had travelled frequently +by this route, we lost the path, and shortly became entangled amongst +the numerous ravines. At length we passed a village, around which were +assembled a number of natives. Having regained the route, we observed +the natives appearing in various directions, and as quickly disappearing +only to gather in our front in increased numbers. Their movements +exciting suspicion, in a country where every man was an enemy, our party +closed together;--we threw out an advance guard,--ten men on either +flank,--the porters, ammunition, and effects in the centre; while +about ten men brought up the rear. Before us lay two low rocky hills +covered with trees, high grass, and brushwood, in which I distinctly +observed the bright red forms of natives painted according to the custom +of the Bari tribe. + +We were evidently in for a fight. The path lay in a gorge between the +low rocky hills in advance. My wife dismounted from her ox, and walked +at the head of our party with me, Saat following behind with the gun +that he usually carried, while the men drove several riding-oxen in the +centre. Hardly had we entered the pass, when--whizz went an arrow over +our heads. This was the signal for a repeated discharge. The natives ran +among the rocks with the agility of monkeys, and showed a considerable +amount of daring in standing within about eighty yards upon the ridge, +and taking steady shots at us with their poisoned arrows. The flanking +parties now opened fire, and what with the bad shooting of both the +escort and the native archers, no one was wounded on either side for the +first ten minutes. The rattle of musketry, and the wild appearance of +the naked vermilion-coloured savages, as they leapt along the craggy +ridge, twanging their bows at us with evil but ineffectual intent, was a +charming picture of African life and manners. Fortunately the branches +of numerous trees and intervening clumps of bamboo frustrated the good +intentions of the arrows, as they glanced from their aim; and although +some fell among our party, we were as yet unscathed. One of the enemy, +who was most probably a chief, distinguished himself in particular, by +advancing to within about fifty yards, and standing on a rock, he +deliberately shot five or six arrows, all of which missed their mark; +the men dodged them as they arrived in their uncertain flight: the speed +of the arrows was so inferior, owing to the stiffness of the bows, that +nothing was easier than to evade them. Any halt was unnecessary. We +continued our march through the gorge, the men keeping up an unremitting +fire until we entered upon a tract of high grass and forest; this being +perfectly dry, it would have been easy to set it on fire, as the enemy +were to leeward; but although the rustling in the grass betokened the +presence of a great number of men, they were invisible. In a few minutes +we emerged in a clearing, where corn had been planted; this was a +favourable position for a decisive attack upon the natives, who now +closed up. Throwing out skirmishers, with orders that they were to cover +themselves behind the trunks of trees, the Baris were driven back. One +was now shot through the body, and fell; but recovering, he ran with his +comrades, and fell dead after a few yards. + +What casualties had happened during the passage of the gorge I cannot +say, but the enemy were now utterly discomfited. I had not fired a shot, +as the whole affair was perfect child's play, and any one who could +shoot would have settled the fortune of the day by half a dozen shots; +but both the traders' people and my men were "shooters, but not +hitters." We now bivouacked on the field for the night. + +During the march on the following day, the natives watched us at a +distance, following in great numbers parallel with our route, but +fearing to attack. The country was perfectly open, being a succession of +fine downs of low grass, with few trees, where any attack against our +guns would have been madness. + +In the evening we arrived at two small deserted villages; these, like +most in the Bari country, were circular, and surrounded by a live and +impenetrable fence of euphorbia, having only one entrance. The traders' +people camped in one, while I took up my quarters in the other. The sun +had sunk, and the night being pitch dark, we had a glorious fire, around +which we placed our angareps opposite the narrow entrance of the camp, +about ten yards distant. I stationed Richarn as sentry outside the +gateway, as he was the most dependable of my men, and I thought it +extremely probable that we might be attacked during the night: three +other sentries I placed on guard at various stations. Dinner being +concluded, Mrs. Baker lay down on her angarep for the night. I drew the +balls from a double No. 10 smooth bore, and loaded with cartridge +containing each twenty large-mould shot (about a hundred to the pound); +putting this under my pillow I went to sleep. Hardly had I begun to +rest, when my men woke me, saying that the camp was surrounded by +natives. Upon inquiry I found this to be correct; it was so dark that +they could not be seen without stooping to the ground and looking along +the surface. I ordered the sentries not to fire unless hostilities +should commence on the side of the natives, and in no case to draw +trigger without a challenge. + +Returning to the angarep I lay down, and not wishing to sleep, I smoked +my long Unyoro pipe. In about ten minutes--bang! went a shot, quickly +followed by another from the sentry at the entrance of the camp. Quietly +rising from my bed, I found Richarn reloading at his post. "What is it, +Richarn?" I asked. "They are shooting arrows into the camp, aiming at +the fire, in hopes of hitting you who are sleeping there," said Richarn. +"I watched one fellow," he continued, "as I heard the twang of his bow +four times. At each shot I heard an arrow strike the ground between me +and you, therefore I fired at him, and I think he is down. Do you see +that black object lying on the ground?" I saw something a little blacker +than the surrounding darkness, but it could not be distinguished. +Leaving Richarn with orders not to move from his post, but to keep a +good look-out until relieved by the next watch, I again went to sleep. + +Before break of day, just as the grey dawn slightly improved the +darkness, I visited the sentry; he was at his post, and reported that he +thought the archer of the preceding night was dead, as he had heard a +sound proceeding from the dark object on the ground after I had left. In +a few minutes it was sufficiently light to distinguish the body of a +roan lying about thirty paces from the camp entrance. Upon examination, +he proved to be a Bari: his bow was in his hand, and two or three arrows +were lying by his side; thirteen mould shot had struck him dead; one had +cut through the bow. We now searched the camp for arrows, and as it +became light we picked up four in various places, some within a few feet +of our beds, and all horribly barbed and poisoned, that the deceased had +shot into the camp gateway. + +This was the last attack during our journey. We marched well, generally +accomplishing fifteen miles of latitude daily from this point, as the +road was good and well known to our guides. The country was generally +poor, but beautifully diversified with large trees, the tamarind +predominating. Passing through the small but thickly-populated and +friendly little province of Moir, in a few days we sighted the +well-known mountain Belignan, that we had formerly passed on its eastern +side when we had started on our uncertain path from Gondokoro upwards of +two years ago. The mountain of Belignan was now N.E. from our point of +observation. + +We had a splendid view of the Ellyria Mountain, and of the distant cone, +Gebel el Assul (Honey Mountain) between Ellyria and Obbo. All these +curiously-shaped crags and peaks were well known to us, and we welcomed +them as old friends after a long absence; they had been our companions +in times of doubt and anxiety, when success in our undertaking appeared +hopeless. At noon on the following day, as we were as usual marching +parallel with the Nile, the river, having made a slight bend to the +west, swept round, and approached within half a mile of our path; the +small conical mountain, Regiaf, within twelve miles of Gondokoro, was on +our left, rising from the west bank of the river. We felt almost at home +again, and marching until sunset, we bivouacked within three miles of +Gondokoro. That night we were full of speculations. Would a boat be +waiting for us with supplies and letters? The morning anxiously looked +forward to at length arrived. We started;--the English flag had been +mounted on a fine straight bamboo with a new lance head specially +arranged for the arrival at Gondokoro. My men felt proud, as they would +march in as conquerors;--according to White Nile ideas such a journey +could not have been accomplished with so small a party. Long before +Ibrahim's men were ready to start, our oxen were saddled and we were +off, longing to hasten into Gondokoro and to find a comfortable vessel +with a few luxuries and the post from England. Never had the oxen +travelled so fast as on that morning;--the flag led the way, and the +men in excellent spirits followed at double quick pace. "I see the masts +of the vessels!" exclaimed the boy Saat. "El hambd el Illah!" (Thank +God!) shouted the men. "Hurrah!" said I--"Three cheers for Old England +and the Sources of the Nile! Hurrah!" and my men joined me in the wild, +and to their ears savage, English yell. "Now for a salute! Fire away all +your powder, if you like, my lads, and let the people know that we're +alive!" This was all that was required to complete the happiness of my +people, and loading and firing as fast as possible, we approached near +to Gondokoro. Presently we saw the Turkish flag emerge from Gondokoro at +about a quarter of a mile distant, followed by a number of the traders' +people, who waited to receive us. On our arrival, they immediately +approached and fired salutes with ball cartridge, as usual advancing +close to us and discharging their guns into the ground at our feet. One +of my servants, Mahomet, was riding an ox, and an old friend of his in +the crowd happening to recognise him, immediately advanced, and saluted +him by firing his gun into the earth directly beneath the belly of the +ox he was riding;--the effect produced made the crowd and ourselves +explode with laughter. The nervous ox, terrified at the sudden discharge +between his legs, gave a tremendous kick, and continued madly kicking +and plunging, until Mahomet was pitched over his head and lay sprawling +on the ground;--this scene terminated the expedition. + +Dismounting from our tired oxen, our first inquiry was concerning boats +and letters. What was the reply? Neither boats, letters, supplies, nor +any intelligence of friends or the civilized world! We had long since +been given up as dead by the inhabitants of Khartoum, and by all those +who understood the difficulties and dangers of the country. We were told +that some people had suggested that we might possibly have gone to +Zanzibar, but the general opinion was that we had all been killed. At +this cold and barren reply, I felt almost choked. We had looked forward +to arriving at Gondokoro as to a home; we had expected that a boat would +have been sent on the chance of finding us, as I had left money in the +hands of an agent in Khartoum--but there was literally nothing to +receive us, and we were helpless to return. We had worked for years in +misery, such as I have but faintly described, to overcome the +difficulties of this hitherto unconquerable exploration; we had +succeeded--and what was the result? Not even a letter from home to +welcome us if alive! As I sat beneath a tree and looked down upon the +glorious Nile that flowed a few yards beneath my feet, I pondered upon +the value of my toil. I had traced the river to its great Albert source, +and as the mighty stream glided before me, the mystery that had ever +shrouded its origin was dissolved. I no longer looked upon its waters +with a feeling approaching to awe for I knew its home, and had visited +its cradle. Had I overrated the importance of the discovery? and had I +wasted some of the best years of my life to obtain a shadow? I recalled +to recollection the practical question of Commoro, the chief of Latooka, +--"Suppose you get to the great lake, what will you do with it? What +will be the good of it? If you find that the large river does flow from +it, what then?" + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +THE LATEST NEWS FROM KHARTOUM. + +The various trading parties were assembled in Gondokoro with a total of +about three thousand slaves; but there was consternation depicted upon +every countenance. Only three boats had arrived from Khartoum--one +diahbiah and two noggurs--these belonged to Koorshid Aga. The resume of +news from Khartoum was as follows:-- + +"Orders had been received by the Egyptian authorities from the European +Governments to suppress the slave-trade. Four steamers had arrived at +Khartoum from Cairo. Two of these vessels had ascended the White Nile, +and had captured many slavers; their crews were imprisoned, and had been +subjected to the bastinado and torture;--the captured slaves had been +appropriated by the Egyptian authorities. + +"It would be impossible to deliver slaves to the Soudan this season, as +an Egyptian regiment had been stationed in the Shillook country, and +steamers were cruising to intercept the boats from the interior in their +descent to Khartoum;--thus the army of slaves then at Gondokoro would +be utterly worthless. + +"The plague was raging at Khartoum, and had killed 15,000 people;--many +of the boats' crews had died on their passage from Khartoum to Gondokoro +of this disease, which had even broken out in the station where we then +were: people died daily. + +"The White Nile was dammed up by a freak of nature, and the crews of +thirty vessels had been occupied five weeks in cutting a ditch through +the obstruction, wide enough to admit the passage of boats." + +Such was the intelligence received by the latest arrival from Khartoum. +No boats having been sent for me, I engaged the diahbiah that had +arrived for Koorshid's ivory;--this would return empty, as no ivory +could be delivered at Gondokoro. The prospect was pleasant, as many men +had died of the plague on board our vessel during the voyage from +Khartoum; thus we should be subject to a visitation of this fearful +complaint as a wind-up to the difficulties we had passed through during +our long exile in Central Africa. I ordered the vessel to be thoroughly +scrubbed with boiling water and sand, after which it was fumigated with +several pounds of tobacco, burnt within the cabin. + +Three days were employed in ferrying the slaves across the river in the +two noggurs, or barges, as they must be returned to their respective +stations. I rejoiced at the total discomfiture of the traders, and, +observing a cloud of smoke far distant to the north, I spread the alarm +that a steamer was approaching from Khartoum! Such was the consternation +of the traders' parties at the bare idea of such an occurrence that they +prepared for immediate flight into the interior, as they expected to be +captured by Government troops sent from Khartoum to suppress the +slave-trade. Profiting by this nervous state of affairs, I induced them +to allow the boat to start immediately, and we concluded all our +arrangements, contracting for the diahbiah at 4,000 piastres (40 +pounds). The plague having broken out at Gondokoro, the victims among +the natives were dragged to the edge of the cliff and thrown into the +river;--it is impossible to describe the horrible effluvium produced by +the crowds of slaves that had been confined upon the limited area of the +station. At length the happy moment arrived that we were to quit the +miserable spot. The boat was ready to start--we were all on board, and +Ibrahim and his people came to say good-bye. It is only justice to +Ibrahim to say, that, although he had been my great enemy when at +Gondokoro in 1863, he had always behaved well since peace was +established at Ellyria; and, although by nature and profession a +slave-hunter, like others of the White Nile, he had frequently yielded +to my interference to save the lives of natives who would otherwise have +been massacred without pity. + +I had gained an extraordinary influence over all these ruffianly people. +Everything that I had promised them had been more than performed; all +that I had foretold had been curiously realized. They now acknowledged +how often I had assured them that the slave-trade would be suppressed by +the interference of European powers, and the present ruin of their trade +was the result; they all believed that I was the cause, by having +written from Gondokoro to the Consul-general of Egypt in 1863, when the +traders had threatened to drive me back. Far from retaliating upon me, +they were completely cowed. The report had been spread throughout +Gondokoro by Ibrahim and his people that their wonderful success in +ivory hunting was chiefly due to me; that their sick had been cured; +that good luck had attended their party; that disaster had befallen all +who had been against me; and that no one had suffered wrong at our +hands. With the resignation of Mahommedans they yielded to their +destiny, apparently without any ill-feeling against us. Crowds lined the +cliff and the high ground by the old ruins of the mission station to see +us depart. We pushed off from shore into the powerful current; the +English flag that had accompanied us all through our wanderings now +fluttered proudly from the masthead unsullied by defeat, and amidst the +rattle of musketry we glided rapidly down the river, and soon lost sight +of Gondokoro. + +What were our feelings at that moment? Overflowing with gratitude to a +Divine Providence that had supported us in sickness, and guided us +through all dangers. There had been moments of hopelessness and despair; +days of misery, when the future had appeared dark and fatal; but we had +been strengthened in our weakness, and led, when apparently lost, by an +unseen hand. I felt no triumph, but with a feeling of calm contentment +and satisfaction we floated down the Nile. My great joy was in the +meeting that I contemplated with Speke in England, I had so thoroughly +completed the task we had agreed upon. + +Silently and easily we floated down the river; the oars keeping us in +midstream. The endless marshes no longer looked so mournful as we glided +rapidly past, and descended the current against which we had so +arduously laboured on our ascent to Gondokoro. As we thus proceeded on +our voyage through the monotonous marshes and vast herds of hippopotami +that at this season thronged the river, I had ample leisure to write my +letters for England, to be posted on arrival at Khartoum, and to look +back upon the results of the last few years. The Nile, cleared of its +mystery, resolves itself into comparative simplicity. The actual basin +of the Nile is included between about the 22 degree and 39 degree East +longitude, and from 3 degrees South to 13 degrees North latitude. The +drainage of that vast area is monopolized by the Egyptian river. The +Victoria and Albert lakes, the two great equatorial reservoirs, are the +recipients of all affluents south of the Equator; the Albert lake being +the grand reservoir in which are concentrated the entire waters from the +south, in addition to tributaries from the Blue Mountains from the north +of the Equator. The Albert N'yanza is the great basin of the Nile: the +distinction between that and the Victoria N'yanza is, that the Victoria +is a reservoir receiving the eastern affluents, and it becomes a +starting point or the most elevated SOURCE at the point where the river +issues from it at the Ripon Falls: the Albert is a reservoir not only +receiving the western and southern affluents direct from the Blue +Mountains, but it also receives the supply from the Victoria and from +the entire equatorial Nile basin. The Nile as it issues from the Albert +N'yanza is the ENTIRE Nile; prior to its birth from the Albert lake it +is NOT the entire Nile. A glance at the map will at once exemplify the +relative value of the two great lakes. The Victoria gathers all the +waters on the eastern side and sheds them into the northern extremity of +the Albert: while the latter, from its character and position, is the +direct channel of the Nile that receives all waters that belong to the +equatorial Nile basin. Thus the Victoria is the first SOURCE; but from +the Albert the river issues at once as the great White Nile. + +It is not my intention to claim a higher value for my discovery than is +justly due, neither would I diminish in any way the lustre of the +achievements of Speke and Grant; it has ever been my object to confirm +and support their discoveries, and to add my voice to the chorus of +praise that they have so justly merited. A great geographical fact has +through our joint labours been most thoroughly established by the +discovery of the sources of the Nile. I lay down upon the map exactly +what I saw, and what I gathered from information afforded by the natives +most carefully examined. + +My exploration confirms all that was asserted by Speke and Grant: they +traced the country from Zanzibar to the northern watershed of Africa, +commencing at about 3 degrees South latitude, at the southern extremity +of the Victoria N'yanza. They subsequently determined the river at the +Ripon Falls flowing from that lake to be the highest source of the Nile. +They had a perfect right to arrive at this conclusion from the data then +afforded. They traced the river for a considerable distance to Karuma +Falls, in lat. 2 degrees 15 minutes N.; and they subsequently met the +Nile in lat. 3 degrees 32 minutes N. They had heard that it flowed into +the Luta N'zige, and that it issued from it; thus they were correct in +all their investigations, which my discoveries have confirmed. Their +general description of the country was perfect, but not having visited +the lake heard of as the Luta N'zige, they could not possibly have been +aware of the vast importance of that great reservoir in the Nile system. +The task of exploring that extraordinary feature having been +accomplished, the geographical question of the sources of the Nile is +explained. Ptolemy had described the Nile sources as emanating from two +great lakes that received the snows of the mountains of Ethiopia. There +are many ancient maps existing upon which these lakes are marked as +positive: although there is a wide error in the latitude, the fact +remains, that two great lakes were reported to exist in Equatorial +Africa fed by the torrents from lofty mountains, and that from these +reservoirs two streams issued, the conjunction of which formed the Nile. +The general principle was correct, although the detail was wrong. There +can be little doubt that trade had been carried on between the Arabs +from the Red Sea and the coast opposite Zanzibar in ancient times, and +that the people engaged in such enterprise had penetrated so far into +the interior as to have obtained a knowledge of the existence of the two +reservoirs; thus may the geographical information originally have been +brought into Egypt. + +The rainfall to within 3 degrees north of the Equator extends over ten +months, commencing in February and terminating in the end of November. +The heaviest rains fall from April till the end of August; during the +latter two months of this season the rivers are at their maximum: at +other times the climate is about as uncertain as that of England; but +the rain is of the heavy character usual in the tropics. Thus the rivers +are constant throughout the year, and the Albert lake continues at a +high level, affording a steady volume of water to the Nile. On the map +given to me by Captain Speke he has marked the Victoria Nile below the +Ripon Falls as the Somerset river. As I have made a point of adhering to +all native names as given by him upon that map, I also adhere to the +name Somerset river for that portion of the Nile between the Victoria +and the Albert Lakes; this must be understood as Speke's VICTORIA NILE +source; bearing the name of Somerset, no confusion will arise in +speaking of the Nile, which would otherwise be ambiguous, as the same +name would apply to two distinct rivers--the one emanating from the +Victoria and flowing into the Albert; the other the entire river Nile as +it leaves the Albert lake. The White Nile, fed as described by the great +reservoirs supplied by the rains of equatorial districts, receives the +following tributaries: + +From the East bank--The Asua, important from 15th April till 15th +November: dry after that date. + +From West bank--The Ye, third class; full from 15th April till 15th +November. + +From West bank--Another small river, third class; full from 15th April +till 15th November. + +Ditto--The Bahr el Gazal; little or no water supplied by this river. + +From East bank--The Sobat, first class; full from June to December. + +The Bahr Giraffe I omit, as it is admitted by the natives to be a branch +of the White Nile that leaves the main river at the Aliab country and +reunites in lat. 9 degrees 25 minutes between the Bahr el Gazal and the +Sobat. The latter river (Sobat) is the most powerful affluent of the +White Nile, and is probably fed by many tributaries from the Galla +country about Kaffa, in addition to receiving the rivers from the Bari +and Latooka countries. I consider that the Sobat must be supplied by +considerable streams from totally distinct countries east and south, +having a rainfall at different seasons, as it is bank-full at the end of +December, when the southern rivers (the Asua, &c.) are extremely low. +North from the Sobat, the White Nile has no other tributaries until it +is joined by the Blue Nile at Khartoum, and by its last affluent the +Atbara in lat. 17 degrees 37 minutes. These two great mountain streams +flooding suddenly in the end of June, fed by the rains of Abyssinia, +raise the volume of the Nile to an extent that causes the inundations of +Lower Egypt. + +The basin of the Nile being thus understood, let us reflect upon the +natural resources of the vast surface of fertile soil that is comprised +in that portion of Central Africa. It is difficult to believe that so +magnificent a soil and so enormous an extent of country is destined to +remain for ever in savagedom, and yet it is hard to argue on the +possibility of improvement in a portion of the world inhabited by +savages whose happiness consists in idleness or warfare. The advantages +are few, the drawbacks many. The immense distance from the seacoast +would render impossible the transport of any merchandise unless of +extreme value, as the expenses would be insupportable. The natural +productions are nil, excepting ivory. The soil being fertile and the +climate favourable to cultivation, all tropical produce would thrive; +cotton, coffee, and the sugarcane are indigenous; but although both +climate and soil are favourable, the conditions necessary to successful +enterprise are wanting--the population is scanty, and the material of +the very worst; the people vicious and idle. The climate, although +favourable for agriculture, is adverse to the European constitution; +thus colonization would be out of the question. What can be done with so +hopeless a prospect? Where the climate is fatal to Europeans, from +whence shall civilization be imported? The heart of Africa is so +completely secluded from the world, and the means of communication are +so difficult, that although fertile, its geographical position debars +that vast extent of country from improvement: thus shut out from +civilization it has become an area for unbridled atrocities, as +exemplified in the acts of the ivory traders. + +Difficult and almost impossible is the task before the Missionary. The +Austrian Mission has failed, and the stations have been forsaken; their +pious labour was hopeless, and the devoted priests died upon their +barren field. What curse lies so heavily upon Africa and bows her down +beneath all other nations? It is the infernal traffic in slaves--a trade +so hideous, that the heart of every slave and owner becomes deformed, +and shrinks like a withered limb incapable of action. The natural love +of offspring, shared with the human race by the most savage beast, +ceases to warm the heart of the wretched slave. Why should the mother +love her child, if it is born to become the PROPERTY of her owner?--to +be SOLD as soon as it can exist without the mother's care. Why should +the girl be modest, when she knows that she is the actual PROPERTY, the +slave, of every purchaser? Slavery murders the sacred feeling of love, +that blessing that cheers the lot of the poorest man, that spell that +binds him to his wife, and child, and home. Love cannot exist with +slavery--the mind becomes brutalized to an extent that freezes all those +tender feelings that Nature has implanted in the human heart to separate +it from the beast; and the mind, despoiled of all noble instincts, +descends to hopeless brutality. Thus is Africa accursed: nor can she be +raised to any scale approaching to civilization until the slave-trade +shall be totally suppressed. The first step necessary to the improvement +of the savage tribes of the White Nile is the annihilation of the +slave-trade. Until this be effected, no legitimate commerce can be +established; neither is there an opening for missionary enterprise--the +country is sealed and closed against all improvement. + +Nothing would be easier than to suppress this infamous traffic, were the +European Powers in earnest. Egypt is in favour of slavery. I have never +seen a Government official who did not in argument uphold slavery as an +institution absolutely necessary to Egypt, thus any demonstration made +against the slave-trade by the Government of that country will be simply +a pro forma movement to blind the European Powers. Their eyes thus +closed, and the question shelved, the trade will resume its channel. +Were the reports of European consuls supported by their respective +Governments, and were the consuls themselves empowered to seize vessels +laden with slaves, and to liberate gangs of slaves when upon a land +journey, that abominable traffic could not exist. The hands of the +European consuls are tied, and jealousies interwoven with the Turkish +question act as a bar to united action on the part of Europe; no Power +cares to be the first to disturb the muddy pool. The Austrian consul at +Khartoum, Herr Natterer, told me, in 1862, that he had vainly reported +the atrocities of the slave-trade to his Government--NO REPLY HAD BEEN +RECEIVED to his report. Every European Government KNOWS that the +slave-trade is carried on to an immense extent in Upper Egypt, and that +the Red Sea is the great Slave Lake by which these unfortunate creatures +are transported to Arabia and to Suez--but the jealousies concerning +Egypt muzzle each European Power. Should one move, the other would +interfere to counteract undue influence in Egypt. Thus is immunity +insured to the villanous actors in the trade. Who can prosecute a slave +trader of the White Nile? What legal evidence can be produced from +Central Africa to secure a conviction in an English Court of Law? The +English consul (Mr. Petherick) arrested a Maltese, the nephew of +Debono;--the charge could not be legally supported. Thus are the consuls +fettered, and their acts nullified by the impossibility of producing +reliable evidence;--the facts are patent; but who can prove them +legally? + +Stop the White Nile trade; prohibit the departure of any vessels from +Khartoum for the south, and let the Egyptian Government grant a +concession to a company for the White Nile, subject to certain +conditions, and to a special supervision. (There are already four +steamers at Khartoum.) Establish a military post of 200 men at +Gondokoro; an equal number below the Shillook tribe in 13 degrees +latitude, and, with two steamers cruising on the river, not a slave +could descend the White Nile. + +Should the slave-trade be suppressed, there will be a good opening for +the ivory trade; the conflicting trading parties being withdrawn, and +the interest of the trade exhibited by a single company, the natives +would no longer be able to barter ivory for cattle; thus they would be +forced to accept other goods in exchange. The newly-discovered Albert +lake opens the centre of Africa to navigation. Steamers ascend from +Khartoum to Gondokoro in latitude 4 degrees 55'. Seven days' march south +from that station the navigable portion of the Nile is reached, where +vessels can ascend direct to the Albert lake--thus an enormous extent +of country is opened to navigation, and Manchester goods and various +other articles would find a ready market in exchange for ivory, at a +prodigious profit, as in those newly-discovered regions ivory has a +merely nominal value. Beyond this commencement of honest trade, I cannot +offer a suggestion, as no produce of the country except ivory could +afford the expense of transport to Europe. IF Africa is to be civilized, +it must be effected by commerce, which, once established, will open the +way for missionary labour; but all ideas of commerce, improvement, and +the advancement of the African race that philanthropy could suggest must +be discarded until the traffic in slaves shall have ceased to exist. + +Should the slave-trade be suppressed, a field would be opened, the +extent of which I will not attempt to suggest, as the future would +depend upon the good government of countries now devoted to savage +anarchy and confusion. + +Any Government that would insure security would be the greatest +blessing, as the perpetual hostilities among the various tribes prevent +an extension of cultivation. The sower knows not who will reap, thus he +limits his crop to his bare necessities. + +The ethnology of Central Africa is completely beyond my depth. The +natives not only are ignorant of writing, but they are without +traditions--their thoughts are as entirely engrossed by their daily +wants as those of animals; thus there is no clue to the distant past; +history has no existence. This is much to be deplored, as peculiarities +are specific in the type of several tribes both in physical appearance +and in language. The Dinka; Bari; Latooka; Madi; and Unyoro or Kitwara, +are distinct languages on the east of the Nile, comprising an extent of +country from about 12 degrees north to the Equator. + +The Makkarika have also a distinct language, and I was informed in +Kamrasi's country, that the Malegga, on the west of the Albert lake, +speak a different tongue to that of Kitwara (or Unyoro)--this may +possibly be the same as the Makkarika, of which I have had no experience +by comparison. Accepting the fact of five distinct languages from the +Equator to 12 degrees N. lat., it would appear by analogy that Central +Africa is divided into numerous countries and tribes, distinct from each +other in language and physical conformation, whose origin is perfectly +obscure. Whether the man of Central Africa be pre-Adamite is impossible +to determine; but the idea is suggested by the following data. The +historical origin of man, or Adam, commences with a knowledge of God. + +Throughout the history of the world from the creation of Adam, God is +connected with mankind in every creed, whether worshipped as the +universal sublime Spirit of omnipotence, or shaped by the forms of +idolatry into representations of a deity. From the creation of Adam, +mankind has acknowledged its inferiority, and must bow down and worship +either the true God or a graven image; or something that is in heaven or +in earth. The world, as we accept that term, was always actuated by a +natural religious instinct. Cut off from that world, lost in the +mysterious distance that shrouded the origin of the Egyptian Nile, were +races unknown, that had never reckoned in the great sum of +history--races that we have brought to light, whose existence had been +hidden from mankind, and that now appear before us like the fossil bones +of antediluvian animals. Are they vestiges of what existed in a +pre-Adamite creation? + +The geological formation of Central Africa is primitive; showing an +altitude above the sea-level averaging nearly 4,000 feet. This elevated +portion of the globe, built up in great part of granitic sandstone +rocks, has never been submerged, nor does it appear to have undergone +any changes, either volcanic or by the action of water. Time, working +through countless ages with the slow but certain instrument of +atmospheric influence, has rounded the surface and split into fragments +the granite rocks, leaving a sandy base of disintegrated portions, while +in other cases the mountains show as hard and undecayed a surface as +though fresh from Nature's foundry. Central Africa never having been +submerged, the animals and races must be as old, and may be older, than +any upon the earth. + +No geological change having occurred in ages long anterior to man, as +shown by Sir R. I. Murchison theoretically so far back as the year 1852, +when Central Africa was utterly unknown, it is natural to suppose that +the races that exist upon that surface should be unaltered from their +origin. That origin may date from a period so distant, that it preceded +the Adamite creation. Historic man believes in a Divinity; the tribes of +Central Africa know no God. Are they of our Adamite race? The equatorial +portion of Africa at the Nile sources has an average altitude above the +sea-level of about 4,000 feet; this elevated plateau forms the base of a +range of mountains, that I imagine extends, like the vertebrae of an +animal, from east to west, shedding a drainage to the north and south. +Should this hypothesis be correct, the southern watershed would fill the +Tanganika lake: while farther to the west another lake, supplied by the +southern drainage, may form the head of the river Congo. On the north a +similar system may drain into the Niger and Lake Tchad: thus the +Victoria and the Albert lakes, being the two great reservoirs or sources +of the Nile, may be the first of a system of African equatorial lakes +fed by the northern and southern drainage of the mountain range, and +supplying all the principal rivers of Africa from the great equatorial +rainfall. The fact of the centre of Africa at the Nile sources being +about 4,000 feet above the ocean, independently of high mountains rising +from that level, suggests that the drainage of the Equator from the +central and elevated portion must find its way to the lower level and +reach the sea. Wherever high mountain ranges exist, there must also be +depressions; those situated in an equatorial rainfall must receive the +drainage from the high lands and become lakes, the overflow of which +must form the sources of rivers, precisely as exemplified in the sources +of the Nile from the Victoria and the Albert lakes. + +The fact that Sir Roderick Murchison, as a geologist, laid down a theory +of the existence of a chain of lakes upon an elevated plateau in Central +Africa, which theory has been now in great measure confirmed by actual +inspection, induces me to quote an extract from his address at the +anniversary meeting of the Royal Geographical Society, 23d May, 1864. In +that address, he expressed opinions upon the geological structure and +the races of Central Africa, which preceded those that I formed when at +the Albert lake. It is with intense interest that I have read the +following extract since my return to England:-- + +"In former addresses, I suggested that the interior mass and central +portions of Africa constituting a great plateau occupied by lakes and +marshes from which the waters escaped by cracks or depressions in the +subtending older rocks, had been in that condition during an enormously +long period. I have recently been enabled, through the apposite +discovery of Dr. Kirk, the companion of Livingstone, not only to fortify +my conjecture of 1852, but greatly to extend the inferences concerning +the long period of time during which the central parts of Africa have +remained in their present condition, save their degradation by ordinary +atmospheric agencies. My view, as given to this Society in 1852, was +mainly founded on the original and admirable geological researches of +Mr. Bain in the colony of the Cape of Good Hope. It was, that, inasmuch +as in the secondary or mesozoic age of geologists, the northern interior +of that country was occupied by great lakes and marshes, as proved by +the fossil reptile discovered by Bain, and named Dicynodon by Owen, such +it has remained for countless ages, even up to the present day. The +succeeding journeys into the interior, of Livingstone, Thornton and +Kirk, Burton and Speke, and Speke and Grant, have all tended to +strengthen me in the belief that Southern Africa has not undergone any +of those great submarine depressions which have so largely affected +Europe, Asia, and America, during the secondary, tertiary, and quasi +modern periods. + +"The discovery of Dr. Kirk has confirmed my conclusion. On the banks of +an affluent of the Zambesi, that gentleman collected certain bones, +apparently carried down in watery drifts from inland positions, which +remains have been so fossilized as to have all the appearance of +antiquity which fossils of a tertiary or older age usually present. One +of these is a portion of the vertebral column and sacrum of a buffalo, +undistinguishable from that of the Cape buffalo; another is a fragment +of a crocodile, and another of a water-tortoise, both undistinguishable +from the forms of those animals now living. Together with these, Dr. +Kirk found numerous bones of antelopes and other animals, which, though +in a fossil condition, all belonged, as he assured me, to species now +living in South Africa. + +"On the other hand, none of our explorers, including Mr. Bain, who has +diligently worked as a geologist, have detected in the interior any +limestones containing marine fossil remains, which would have proved +that South Africa had, like other regions, been depressed into oceanic +conditions, and re-elevated. On the contrary, in addition to old +granitic and other igneous rocks, all explorers find only either +innumerable undulations of sandstones, schistose, and quartzose rocks, +or such tufaceous and ferruginous deposits as would naturally occur in +countries long occupied by lakes and exuberant jungles, separated from +each other by sandy hills, scarcely any other calcareous rocks being +found except tufas formed by the deposition of landsprings. It is true +that there are marine tertiary formations on the coasts (around the Cape +Colony, near the mouth of the Zambesi opposite Mozambique, and again on +the coasts of Mombas opposite Zanzibar), and that these have been raised +up into low-coast ranges, followed by rocks of igneous origin. But in +penetrating into the true interior, the traveller takes a final leave of +all such formations; and in advancing to the heart of the continent, he +traverses a vast region which, to all appearance, has ever been under +terrestrial and lacustrine conditions only. Judging, indeed, from all +the evidences as yet collected, the interior of South Africa has +remained in that condition since the period of the secondary rocks of +geologists! Yet, whilst none of our countrymen found any evidences of +old marine remains, Captain Speke brought from one of the ridges which +lay between the coast and the lake Victoria N'yanza a fossil shell, +which, though larger in size, is undistinguishable from the Achatina +perdix now flourishing in South Africa. Again, whilst Bain found fossil +plants in his reptiliferous strata north of the Cape, and Livingstone +and Thornton discovered coal in sandstone, with fossil plants, like +those of our old coal of Europe and America,--yet both these mesozoic +and palaeozoic remains are terrestrial, and are not associated with +marine limestones, indicative of those oscillations of the land which +are so common in other countries. + +"It is further to be observed, that the surface of this vast interior is +entirely exempt from the coarse superficial drift that encumbers so many +countries, as derived from lofty mountain-chains from which either +glaciers or great torrential streams have descended. In this respect, it +is also equally unlike those plains of Germany, Poland, and Northern +Russia, which were sea-bottoms when floating icebergs melted and dropped +the loads of stone which they were transporting from Scandinavia and +Lapland. + +"In truth, therefore, the inner portion of Southern Africa is, in this +respect, as far as I know, geologically unique in the long conservation +of ancient terrestrial conditions. This inference is further supported +by the concomitant absence, throughout the larger portion of all this +vast area, i.e. south of the Equator, of any of those volcanic rocks +which are so often associated with oscillations of the terra firma +["Although Kilimandjaro is to a great extent igneous and volcanic, there +is nothing to prove it has been in activity during the historic era."] + +"With the exception of the true volcanic hills of the Cameroons recently +described by Burton, on the west coast, a little to the north of the +Equator, and which possibly may advance southwards towards the Gaboon +country, nothing is known of the presence of any similar foci of +sub-aerial eruption all round the coasts of Africa south of the Equator. +If the elements for the production of them had existed, the coast-line +is precisely that on which we should expect to find such volcanic vents, +if we judge by the analogy of all volcanic regions where the habitual +igneous eruptions are not distant from the sea, or from great internal +masses of water. The absence, then, both on the coasts and in the +interior, of any eruptive rocks which can have been thrown up under the +atmosphere since the period when the tertiary rocks began to be +accumulated, is in concurrence with all the physical data as yet got +together. These demonstrate that, although the geologist finds here none +of those characters of lithological structure and curiously diversified +organic remains which enable him to fix the epochs of succession in the +crust of the earth in other quarters of the globe, the interior of South +Africa is unquestionably a grand type of a region which has preserved +its ancient terrestrial conditions during a very long period, unaffected +by any changes except those which are dependent on atmospheric and +meteoric influences. + +"If, then, the lower animals and plants of this vast country have gone +on unchanged for a very long period, may we infer that its human +inhabitants are of like antiquity? If so, the Negro may claim as old a +lineage as the Caucasian or Mongolian races. In the absence of any +decisive fact, I forbear, at present, to speculate on this point; but +as, amid the fossil specimens procured by Livingstone and Kirk, there +are fragments of pottery made by human hands, we must wait until some +zealous explorer of Southern Africa shall distinctly bring forward +proofs that the manufactured articles are of the same age as the fossil +bones. In other words, we still require from Africa the same proofs of +the existence of links which bind together the sciences of Geology and +Archaeology which have recently been developed in Europe. Now, if the +unquestioned works of man should be found to be coeval with the remains +of fossilized existing animals in Southern Africa, the travelled +geographer, who has convinced himself of the ancient condition of its +surface, must admit, however unwillingly, that although the black man is +of such very remote antiquity, he has been very stationary in +civilization and in attaining the arts of life, if he be compared with +the Caucasian, the Mongolian, the Red Indian of America, or even with +the aborigines of Polynesia." ("The most remarkable proof of the +inferiority of the Negro, when compared with the Asiatic, is, that +whilst the latter has domesticated the elephant for ages, and rendered +it highly useful to man, the Negro has only slaughtered the animal to +obtain food or ivory.") + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +THE BLACK ANTELOPE. + +We continued our voyage down the Nile, at times scudding along with a +fair wind and stream, when a straight portion of the river allowed our +men respite from the oars. This was the termination of the dry season, +in this latitude 7 degrees (end of March);--thus, although the river +was nearly level with the banks, the marshes were tolerably firm, and in +the dryer portions the reeds had been burnt off by the natives. In one +of these cleared places we descried a vast herd of antelopes, numbering +several thousands. The males were black, and carried fine horns, while +the females were reddish-brown and without horns. Never having shot this +species, I landed from the boat, which I ordered to wait in a sheltered +nook, while, accompanied by the boy Saat and Richarn, I took the little +Fletcher 24 rifle and commenced a stalk. + +The antelopes did not evince their usual shyness, and with a tolerable +amount of patience I succeeded in getting within about 120 paces of two +splendid black bucks that were separated from the herd;--a patch of +half-burnt reeds afforded a good covering point. The left-hand buck was +in a good position for a shoulder shot, standing with his flank exposed, +but with his head turned towards me. At the crack of the rifle he sprang +upon his hind legs,--gave two or three convulsive bounds, and fell. His +companion went off at full speed, and the left-hand barrel unfortunately +broke his hind leg, as the half-burnt reeds hindered a correct aim. +Reloading, while my men bled the dead buck, I fired a long shot at the +dense mass of antelopes who were now in full retreat at about 600 yards' +distance crowded together in thousands. I heard, or fancied I heard, the +ball strike some object, and as the herd passed on, a reddish object +remained behind that we could hardly distinguish, but on nearer approach +I found a doe lying dead--she had been by chance struck by the ball +through the neck at this great distance. The game being at full speed in +retreat, my sport would have been over had we not at that moment heard +shouts and yells exactly ahead of the vast herd of antelopes. At once +they halted, and we perceived a number of natives, armed with spears and +bows, who had intercepted the herd in their retreat, and who now turned +them by their shouts exactly towards us. The herd came on at full speed; +but seeing us, they slightly altered their line, and rushed along, +thundering over the ground almost in single file, thus occupying a +continuous line of about half a mile in length. Running towards them at +right angles for about a quarter of a mile, I at length arrived at a +white ant-hill about ten feet high; behind this I took my stand within +about seventy yards of the string of antelopes that were filing by at +full gallop. I waited for a buck with fine horns. Several passed, but I +observed better heads in their rear;--they came bounding along. +"Crack!" went the rifle; and a fine buck pitched upon his head. Again +the little Fletcher spoke, and down went another within ten yards of the +first. "A spare gun, Richarn!" and Oswell's Purdey was slipped into my +hand. "Only one barrel is loaded," said Richarn. I saw a splendid buck +coming along with a doe by his side;--she protected him from the shot +as they came on at right angles with the gun; but knowing that the ball +would go through her and reach him on the other side, I fired at her +shoulder,--she fell dead to the shot, but he went off scatheless. I now +found that Richarn had loaded the gun with twenty mould shot instead of +ball;--these were confined in a cartridge, and had killed her on the +spot. + +I had thus bagged five antelopes; and, cutting off the heads of the +bucks, we left the bodies for the natives, who were anxiously watching +us from a distance, but afraid to approach. The antelope first shot that +was nearer to the boat, we dragged on board, with the assistance of ten +or twelve men. The buck was rather larger than an average +donkey;--colour, black, with a white patch across the withers;--a white +crown to the head; white round the eyes; chest black, but belly white; +the horns about two feet four inches long, and bending gracefully +backwards. + +A few days after this incident we arrived at the junction of the Bahr el +Gazal, and turning sharp to the east, we looked forward to arriving at +the extraordinary obstruction that since our passage in 1863 had dammed +the White Nile. + +There was considerable danger in the descent of the river upon nearing +this peculiar dam, as the stream plunged below it by a subterranean +channel with a rush like a cataract. A large diahbiah laden with ivory +had been carried beneath the dam on her descent from Gondokoro in the +previous year, and had never been seen afterwards. I ordered the reis to +have the anchor in readiness, and two powerful hawsers; should we arrive +in the evening, he was to secure the vessel to the bank, and not to +attempt the passage through the canal until the following morning. We +anchored about half a mile above the dam. + +This part of the Nile is boundless marsh, portions of which were at this +season terra firma. The river ran from west to east; the south bank was +actual ground covered with mimosas, but to the north and west the flat +marsh covered with high weeds was interminable. + +At daybreak we manned the oars and floated down the rapid stream. In a +few minutes we heard the rush of water, and we saw the dam stretching +across the river before us. The marsh being firm, our men immediately +jumped out on the left bank and manned the hawsers--one fastened from +the stern, the other from the bow; this arrangement prevented the boat +from turning broadside on to the dam, by which accident the shipwrecked +diahbiah had been lost. As we approached the dam, I perceived the canal +or ditch that had been cut by the crews of the vessels that had ascended +the river; it was about ten feet wide, and would barely allow the +passage of our diahbiah. This canal was already choked with masses of +floating vegetation and natural rafts of reeds and mud that the river +carried with it, the accumulation of which had originally formed the +dam. + +Having secured the vessel by carrying out an anchor astern and burying +it on the marsh, while a rope fastened from the bow to the high reeds +kept her stern to the stream, all hands jumped into the canal and +commenced dragging out the entangled masses of weeds, reeds, ambatch +wood, grass, and mud that had choked the entrance. Half a day was thus +passed, at the expiration of which time we towed our vessel safely into +the ditch, where she lay out of danger. It was necessary to discharge +all cargo from the boat, in order to reduce her draught of water. This +tedious operation completed, and many bushels of corn being piled upon +mats spread upon the reeds beaten flat, we endeavoured to push her along +the canal. Although the obstruction was annoying it was a most +interesting object. + +The river had suddenly disappeared: there was apparently an end to the +White Nile. The dam was about three-quarters of a mile wide; it was +perfectly firm, and was already overgrown with high reeds and grass, +thus forming a continuation of the surrounding country. Many of the +traders' people had died of the plague at this spot during the delay of +some weeks in cutting the canal; the graves of these dead were upon the +dam. The bottom of the canal that had been cut through the dam was +perfectly firm, composed of sand, mud, and interwoven decaying +vegetation. The river arrived with great force at the abrupt edge of the +obstruction, bringing with it all kinds of trash and large floating +islands. None of these objects hitched against the edge, but the instant +they struck they dived under and disappeared. It was in this manner that +the vessel had been lost--having missed the narrow entrance to the +canal, she had struck the dam stem on; the force of the current +immediately turned her broadside against the obstruction; the floating +islands and masses of vegetation brought down by the river were heaped +against her, and heeling over on her side she was sucked bodily under +and carried beneath the dam; her crew had time to save themselves by +leaping upon the firm barrier that had wrecked their ship. The boatmen +told me that dead hippopotami had been found on the other side, that had +been carried under the dam and drowned. + +Two days' hard work from morning till night brought us through the +canal, and we once more found ourselves on the open Nile on the other +side of the dam. The river was in that spot perfectly clean; not a +vestige of floating vegetation could be seen upon its waters; in its +subterranean passage it had passed through a natural sieve, leaving all +foreign matter behind to add to the bulk of the already stupendous work. + +All before us was clear and plain sailing. For some days two or three +of our men had been complaining of severe headache, giddiness, and +violent pains in the spine and between the shoulders. I had been anxious +when at Gondokoro concerning the vessel, as many persons had died on +board of the plague during the voyage from Khartoum. The men assured me +that the most fatal symptom was violent bleeding from the nose; in such +cases no one had been known to recover. One of the boatmen, who had been +ailing for some days, suddenly went to the side of the vessel and hung +his head over the river; his nose was bleeding! + +Another of my men, Yaseen, was ill; his uncle, my vakeel, came to me +with a report that "his nose was bleeding violently!" Several other men +fell ill: they lay helplessly about the deck in low muttering delirium, +their eyes as yellow as orange-peel. In two or three days the vessel was +so horribly offensive as to be unbearable; THE PLAGUE HAD BROKEN OUT! We +floated past the river Sobat junction; the wind was fair from the south, +thus fortunately we in the stern were to windward of the crew. Yaseen +died; he was one who had bled at the nose. We stopped to bury him. The +funeral hastily arranged, we again set sail. Mahommed died; he had bled +at the nose. Another burial. Once more we set sail and hurried down the +Nile. Several men were ill, but the dreaded symptom had not appeared. I +had given each man a strong dose of calomel at the commencement of the +disease; I could do nothing more, as my medicines were exhausted. All +night we could hear the sick, muttering and raving in delirium, but from +years of association with disagreeables we had no fear of the infection. +One morning the boy Saat came to me with his head bound up, and +complained of severe pain in the back and limbs, with all the usual +symptoms of plague: in the afternoon I saw him leaning over the ship's +side; his nose was bleeding violently! At night he was delirious. On the +following morning he was raving, and on the vessel stopping to collect +firewood he threw himself into the river to cool the burning fever that +consumed him. His eyes were suffused with blood, which, blended with a +yellow as deep as the yolk of egg, gave a horrible appearance to his +face, that was already so drawn and changed as to be hardly recognised. +Poor Saat! the faithful boy that we had adopted, and who had formed so +bright an exception to the dark character of his race, was now a victim +to this horrible disease. He was a fine strong lad of nearly fifteen, +and he now lay helplessly on his mat, and cast wistful glances at the +face of his mistress as she gave him a cup of cold water mixed with a +few lumps of sugar that we had obtained from the traders at Gondokoro. + +We arrived at Fashoder, in the Shillook country, where the Egyptian +Government had formed a camp of a thousand men to take possession of the +country. We were well received and hospitably entertained by Osman Bey, +to whom our thanks are due for the first civilized reception after years +of savagedom. At Fashoder we procured lentils, rice, and dates, which +were to us great luxuries, and would be a blessing to the plague-smitten +boy, as we could now make some soup. Goats we had purchased in the Shir +country for molotes (iron hoes) that we had received in exchange for +corn at Gondokoro from Koorshid's agent who was responsible for the +supply I had left in depot. We left Fashoder, and continued our voyage +towards Khartoum. + +Saat grew worse and worse: nothing would relieve the unfortunate boy +from the burning torture of that frightful disease. He never slept, but +night and day he muttered in delirium, breaking the monotony of his +malady by occasionally howling like a wild animal. Richarn won my heart +by his careful nursing of the boy, who had been his companion through +years of hardship. We arrived at the village of Wat Shely, only three +days from Khartoum. Saat was dying. The night passed, and I expected +that all would be over before sunrise; but as morning dawned a change +had taken place,--the burning fever had left him, and although raised +blotches had broken out upon his chest and various parts of his body, he +appeared much better. We now gave him stimulants; a tea-spoonful of +araki that we had bought at Fashoder was administered every ten minutes +on a lump of sugar. This he crunched in his mouth, while he gazed at my +wife with an expression of affection, but he could not speak. I had him +well washed and dressed in clean clothes, that had been kept most +carefully during the voyage, to be worn on our entree to Khartoum. He +was laid down to sleep upon a clean mat, and my wife gave him a lump of +sugar to moisten his mouth and relieve his thickly-furred tongue. His +pulse was very weak, and his skin cold. "Poor Saat," said my wife, "his +life hangs upon a thread. We must nurse him most carefully; should he +have a relapse, nothing will save him." An hour passed, and he slept. +Karka, the fat, good-natured slave woman, quietly went to his side: +gently taking him by the ankles and knees, she stretched his legs into a +straight position, and laid his arms parallel with his sides. She then +covered his face with a cloth, one of the few rags that we still +possessed. "Does he sleep still?" we asked. The tears ran down the +cheeks of the savage but good-hearted Karka, as she sobbed, "He is +dead!" + +We stopped the boat. It was a sandy shore; the banks were high, and a +clump of mimosas grew above high water-mark. It was there that we dug +his grave. My men worked silently and sadly, for all loved Saat: he had +been so good and true, that even their hard hearts had learnt to respect +his honesty. We laid him in his grave on the desert shore, beneath the +grove of trees. Again the sail was set, and, filled by the breeze, it +carried us away from the dreary spot where we had sorrowfully left all +that was good and faithful. It was a happy end--most merciful, as he had +been taken from a land of iniquity in all the purity of a child +converted from Paganism to Christianity. He had lived and died in our +service a good Christian. Our voyage was nearly over, and we looked +forward to home and friends, but we had still fatigues before us: poor +Saat had reached his home and rest. Two faithful followers we had +buried,--Johann Schmidt at the commencement of the voyage, and Saat at +its termination. + +A few miles from this spot, a head wind delayed us for several days. +Losing patience, I engaged camels from the Arabs; and riding the whole +day, we reached Khartoum about half an hour after sunset on the 5th of +May, 1865. + +On the following morning we were welcomed by the entire European +population of Khartoum, to whom are due my warmest thanks for many kind +attentions. We were kindly offered a house by Monsieur Lombrosio, the +manager of the Khartoum branch of the "Oriental and Egyptian Trading +Company." + +I now heard the distressing news of the death of my poor friend +Speke. I could not realize the truth of this melancholy report +until I read the details of his fatal accident in the appendix of +a French translation of his work. It was but a sad consolation +that I could confirm his discoveries, and bear witness to the +tenacity and perseverance with which he had led his party through +the untrodden path of Africa to the first Nile source. This +being the close of the expedition, I wish it to be distinctly +understood how thoroughly I support the credit of Speke and Grant +for their discovery of the first and most +elevated source of the Nile in the great Victoria N'yanza. + +Although I call the river between the two lakes the "Somerset," as +it was named by Speke upon the map he gave to me, I must repeat +that it is positively the Victoria Nile, and the name "Somerset" +is only used to distinguish it, in my description, from the entire +Nile that issues from the Albert N'yanza. + +Whether the volume of water added by the latter lake be greater than +that supplied by the Victoria, the fact remains unaltered: the Victoria +is the highest and first-discovered source; the Albert is the second +source, but the ENTIRE RESERVOIR of the Nile waters. I use the term +SOURCE as applying to each reservoir as a head or main starting-point of +the river. I am quite aware that it is a debated point among +geographers, whether a lake can be called a SOURCE, as it owes its +origin to one or many rivers; but, as the innumerable torrents of the +mountainous regions of Central Africa pour into these great reservoirs, +it would be impossible to give preference to any individual stream. Such +a theory would become a source of great confusion, and the Nile sources +might remain forever undecided; a thousand future travellers might +return, each with his particular source in his portfolio, some stream of +insignificant magnitude being pushed forward as the true origin of the +Nile. + +I found few letters awaiting me at Khartoum: all the European population +of the place had long ago given us up for lost. It was my wish to start +without delay direct for England, but there were extraordinary +difficulties in this wretched country of the Soudan. A drought of two +years had created a famine throughout the land, attended by a cattle and +camel plague, that had destroyed so many camels that all commerce was +stagnated. No merchandise could be transported from Khartoum; thus no +purchases could be made by the traders in the interior: the country, +always wretched, was ruined. The plague, or a malignant typhus, had run +riot in Khartoum: out of 4,000 black troops, only a remnant below 400 +remained alive! + +This frightful malady, that had visited our boat, had revelled in the +filth and crowded alleys of the Soudan capital. + +The Blue Nile was so low that even the noggurs drawing three feet of +water could not descend the river. Thus, the camels being dead, and the +river impassable, no corn could be brought from Sennaar and Watmedene: +there was a famine in Khartoum--neither fodder for animals, nor food for +man. Being unable to procure either camels or boats, I was compelled to +wait at Khartoum until the Nile should rise sufficiently to enable us to +pass the cataracts between that town and Berber. +[The want of water in the Blue Nile, as here described, exemplifies the +theory that Lower Egypt owes its existence during the greater portion of +the year entirely to the volume of the White Nile.] + +We remained two months at Khartoum. During this time we were subjected +to intense heat and constant dust-storms, attended with a general plague +of boils. Verily, the plagues of Egypt remain to this day in the Soudan. +On the 26th June, we had the most extraordinary dust-storm that had ever +been seen by the inhabitants. I was sitting in the courtyard of my +agent's house at about 4:30 P.M.: there was no wind, and the sun was as +bright as usual in this cloudless sky, when suddenly a gloom was cast +over all,--a dull yellow glare pervaded the atmosphere. Knowing that +this effect portended a dust-storm, and that the present calm would be +followed by a hurricane of wind, I rose to go home, intending to secure +the shutters. Hardly had I risen, when I saw approaching, from the S.W. +apparently, a solid range of immense brown mountains, high in air. So +rapid was the passage of this extraordinary phenomenon, that in a few +minutes we were in actual pitchy darkness. At first there was no wind, +and the peculiar calm gave an oppressive character to the event. We were +in "a darkness that might be felt." Suddenly the wind arrived, but not +with the violence that I had expected. There were two persons with me, +Michael Latfalla, my agent, and Monsieur Lombrosio. So intense was the +darkness, that we tried to distinguish our hands placed close before our +eyes;--not even an outline could be seen. This lasted for upwards of +twenty minutes: it then rapidly passed away, and the sun shone as +before; but we had FELT the darkness that Moses had inflicted upon the +Egyptians. + +The Egyptian Government had, it appeared, been pressed by some of the +European Powers to take measures for the suppression of the slave-trade: +a steamer had accordingly been ordered to capture all vessels laden +with this in famous cargo. Two vessels had been seized and brought to +Khartoum, containing 850 human beings!--packed together like anchovies, +the living and the dying festering together, and the dead lying beneath +them. European eye-witnesses assured me that the disembarking of this +frightful cargo could not be adequately described. The slaves were in a +state of starvation, having had nothing to eat for several days. They +were landed in Khartoum; the dead and many of the dying were tied by the +ankles, and dragged along the ground by donkeys through the streets. The +most malignant typhus, or plague, had been engendered among this mass of +filth and misery, thus closely packed together. Upon landing, the women +were divided by the Egyptian authorities among the soldiers. These +creatures brought the plague to Khartoum, which, like a curse visited +upon this country of slavery and abomination, spread like a fire +throughout the town, and consumed the regiments that had received this +horrible legacy from the dying cargo of slaves. Among others captured by +the authorities on a charge of slave-trading was an Austrian subject, +who was then in the custody of the consul. A French gentleman, Monsieur +Garnier, had been sent to Khartoum by the French Consulate of Alexandria +on a special inquiry into the slave-trade; he was devoting himself to +the subject with much energy. + +While at Khartoum I happened to find Mahommed Her! the vakeel of +Chenooda's party, who had instigated lily men to mutiny at Latooka, and +had taken my deserters into his employ. I had promised to make an +example of this fellow; I therefore had him arrested, and brought before +the Divan. With extreme effrontery, he denied having had anything to do +with the affair, adding to his denial all knowledge of the total +destruction of his party and of my mutineers by the Latookas. Having a +crowd of witnesses in my own men, and others that I had found in +Khartoum who had belonged to Koorshid's party at that time, his +barefaced lie was exposed, and he was convicted. I determined that he +should be punished, as an example that would insure respect to any +future English traveller in those regions. My men, and all those with +whom I had been connected, had been accustomed to rely most implicitly +upon all that I had promised, and the punishment of this man had been an +expressed determination. + +I went to the Divan and demanded that he should be flogged. Omer Bey was +then Governor of the Soudan, in the place of Moosa Pasha deceased. He +sat upon the divan, in the large hall of justice by the river. Motioning +me to take a seat by his side, and handing me his pipe, he called the +officer in waiting, and gave the necessary orders. In a few minutes the +prisoner was led into the hall, attended by eight soldiers. One man +carried a strong pole about seven feet long, in the centre of which was +a double chain, riveted through in a loop. The prisoner was immediately +thrown down with his face to the ground, while two men stretched out his +arms and sat upon them; his feet were then placed within the loop of the +chain, and the pole being twisted round until firmly secured, it was +raised from the ground sufficiently to expose the soles of the feet. Two +men with powerful hippopotamus whips stood, one on either side. The +prisoner thus secured, the order was given. The whips were most +scientifically applied, rind after the first five dozen, the +slave-hunting scoundrel howled most lustily for mercy. How often had he +flogged unfortunate slave women to excess, and what murders had that +wretch committed, who now howled for mercy! I begged Omer Bey to stop +the punishment at 150 lashes, and to explain to him publicly in the +divan, that he was thus punished for attempting to thwart the expedition +of an English traveller, by instigating my escort to mutiny. + +This affair over--all my accounts paid--and my men dismissed with their +hands full of money,--I was ready to start for Egypt. The Nile rose +sufficiently to enable the passage of the cataracts, and on the 30th +June we took leave of all friends in Khartoum, and of my very kind +agent, Michael Latfalla, well known as Hallil el Shami, who had most +generously cashed all my bills on Cairo without charging a fraction of +exchange. On the morning of 1st July, we sailed from Khartoum to Berber. + +On approaching the fine basalt hills through which the river passes +during its course from Khartoum, I was surprised to see the great Nile +contracted to a trifling width of from eighty to a hundred and twenty +yards. Walled by high cliffs of basalt upon either side, the vast volume +of the Nile flows grandly through this romantic pass, the water boiling +up in curling eddies, showing that rocky obstructions exist in its +profound depths below. + +Our voyage was very nearly terminated at the passage of the cataracts. +Many skeletons of wrecked vessels lay upon the rocks in various places: +as we were flying along in full sail before a heavy gale of wind, +descending a cataract, we struck upon a sandbank--fortunately not upon a +rock, or we should have gone to pieces like a glass bottle. The +tremendous force of the stream, running at the rate of about ten or +twelve miles per hour, immediately drove the vessel broadside upon the +bank. About sixty yards below us was a ridge of rocks, upon which it +appeared certain that we must be driven should we quit the bank upon +which we were stranded. The reis and crew, as usual in such cases, lost +their heads. I emptied a large waterproof portmanteau, and tied it +together with ropes, so as to form a life-buoy for my wife and Richarn, +neither of whom could swim; the maps, journals, and observations, I +packed in an iron box, which I fastened with a tow-line to the +portmanteau. It appeared that we were to wind up the expedition with +shipwreck, and thus lose my entire collection of hunting spoils. Having +completed the preparations for escape, I took command of the vessel, and +silenced the chattering crew. + +My first order was to lay out an anchor up stream. + +This was done: the water was shallow, and the great weight of the +anchor, carried on the shoulders of two men, enabled them to resist the +current, and to wade hip-deep about forty yards up the stream upon the +sandbank. + +Thus secured, I ordered the crew to haul upon the cable. The great force +of the current bearing upon the broadside of the vessel, while her head +was anchored up stream, bore her gradually round. All hands were now +employed in clearing away the sand, and deepening a passage: loosen ing +the sand with their hands and feet, the powerful rapids carried it away. +For five hours we remained in this position, the boat cracking, and half +filled with water however, we stopped the leak caused by the strain upon +her timbers, and having, after much labour, cleared a channel in the +narrow sandbank, the moment arrived to slip the cable, hoist the sail, +and trust to the heavy gale of wind from the west to clear the rocks, +that lay within a few yards of us to the north. "Let go!" and, all being +prepared, the sail was loosened, and filling in the strong gale with a +loud report, the head of the vessel swung round with the force of wind +and stream. Away we flew! For an instant we grated on some hard +substance: we stood upon the deck, watching the rocks exactly before us, +with the rapids roaring loudly around our boat as she rushed upon what +looked like certain destruction. Another moment, and we passed within a +few inches of the rocks within the boiling surf. Hurrah! we are all +right! We swept by the danger, and flew along the rapids, hurrying +towards Old England. + +We arrived at Berber, the spot from which we had started upwards of four +years ago for our Atbara expedition. Here we were most hospitably +received by Monsieur and Madame Laffargue, a French gentleman and his +charming wife, who had for many years been residents in the Soudan. It +is with feelings of gratitude that I express my thanks to all Frenchmen +that I have met in those wild countries, for courtesies and attention, +that were appreciated by me like unexpected flowers in a desert. I can +only hope that Frenchmen may, when in need, receive the same kindness +from my countrymen, when travelling in lands far distant from LA BELLE +FRANCE. + +I determined upon the Red Sea route to Egypt, instead of passing the +horrible Korosko desert during the hot month of August. After some delay +I procured camels, and started east for Souakim, from whence I hoped to +procure a steamer to Suez. + +This route from Berber is not the usual caravan road: the country was in +rather a disturbed state, owing to the mutiny of all the black troops in +the Egyptian service in the Taka province; and the Hadendowa Arabs, who +are at no time the best of their race, were very excited. The first +eight days' journey are devoid of water, except at two stations, the +route being desert. Our party consisted of my wife, Richarn, Achmet, and +Zeneb; the latter was a six-foot girl of the Dinka tribe, with whom +Richarn had fallen in love and married during our sojourn at Khartoum. + +Zeneb was a good girl, rather pretty, as strong as a giraffe, and a good +cook; a very valuable acquisition for Richarn. Her husband, who had been +my faithful follower, was now a rich man, being the owner of thirty +napoleons, the balance of his wages. Achmet was an Egyptian servant, +whom I had recently engaged in Khartoum. I had also offered a Swiss +missionary the protection of our party. + +One day, during the heat of noon, after a long march in the burning sun +through a treeless desert, we descried a solitary tree in the distance, +to which we hurried as to a friend. Upon arrival, we found its shade +occupied by a number of Hadendowa Arabs. Dismounting from our camels, we +requested them to move and to give place for our party--as a tree upon +the desert is like a well of water, to be shared by every traveller. Far +from giving the desired place, they most insolently refused to allow us +to share the tree. Upon Richarn attempting to take possession, he was +rudely pushed on one side, and an Arab drew his knife. Achmet had a +coorbatch (hippopotamus whip) in his hand, that he had used on his +camel; the act of raising this to threaten the Arab who had drawn his +knife was the signal for hostilities. Out flashed the broadswords from +their sheaths! and the headman of the party aimed a well-intended cut at +my head. Parrying the cut with my sun umbrella, I returned with a quick +thrust directly in the mouth, the point of the peaceful weapon +penetrating to his throat with such force that he fell upon his back. +Almost at the same moment I had to parry another cut from one of the +crowd that smashed my umbrella completely, and left me with my remaining +weapons, a stout Turkish pipe-stick about four feet long, and my fist. +Parrying with the stick, thrusting in return at the face, and hitting +sharp with the left hand, I managed to keep three or four of the party +on and off upon their backs, receiving a slight cut with a sword upon my +left arm in countering a blow which just grazed me as I knocked down the +owner, and disarmed him. My wife picked up the sword, as I had no time +to stoop, and she stood well at bay with her newly-acquired weapon that +a disarmed Arab wished to wrest from her, but dared not close with the +naked blade. I had had the fight all my own way, as, being beneath the +tree (the boughs of which were very near the ground), the Arabs, who do +not understand the use of the point, were unable to use their swords, as +their intended cuts were intercepted by the branches. Vigorous thrusting +and straight hitting cleared the tree, and the party were scattered +right and left, followed up by Richarn and Achmet, armed with +double-barrelled rifles. I was determined to disarm the whole party, if +possible. One of the Arabs, armed with a lance, rushed up to attack +Richarn from behind; but Zeneb was of the warlike Dinka tribe, and +having armed herself with the hard wood handle of the axe, she went into +the row like "Joan of Arc," and hastening to the rescue of Richarn, she +gave the Arab such a whack upon the head that she knocked him down on +the spot, and seizing his lance she disarmed him. Thus armed, she rushed +into the thickest of the fray. + +"Bravo, Zeneb!" I could not help shouting. Seizing a thick. stick that +had been dropped by one of the Arabs, I called Richarn and our little +party together, and attacking the few Arabs who still offered +resistance, they were immediately knocked down and disarmed. The leader +of the party, who had been the first to draw his sword and had received +a mouthful of umbrella, had not moved from the spot where he fell, but +amused himself with coughing and spitting. I now ordered him to be +bound, and threatened to tie him to my camel's tail and lead him a +prisoner to the Governor of Souakim, unless he called all those of his +party who had run away. They were now standing at a distance in the +desert, and I insisted upon the delivery of their weapons. Being +thoroughly beaten and cowed, he conferred with those whom we had taken +prisoners, and the affair ended by all the arms being delivered up. We +counted six swords, eleven lances, and a heap of knives, the number of +which I forget. + +I ordered the entire party to stand in a line; and I gave them their +choice, whether the ringleaders would receive a flogging from me, or +whether I should tie them to the tails of camels and lead them to the +Turkish Governor of Souakim? They immediately chose the former; and, +calling them from the rank, I ordered them to lie down on the ground to +receive punishment. + +They submitted like dogs; Richarn and Achmet stood over them with their +whips, ready for the word. At this moment an old white-headed Arab of my +caravan came to me: kneeling down, he stroked my beard with his dirty +hands, and implored pardon for the offenders. Thoroughly understanding +the Arab character, I replied, "They are miserable sons of dogs, and +their swords are like the feathers of a fowl; they deserve flogging, but +when a white head asks for pardon, it should be granted. God is +merciful, and we are all his children." Thus was the affair ended to the +satisfaction of our side. I broke all the lances into fragments upon a +rock,--ordered Zeneb to make a fire with the wood of the handles, to +boil some coffee; and tying the swords into a bundle, we packed the +lance-heads and knives in a basket, with the understanding that they +should be delivered to their owners on our arrival at the last well, +after which point there would be water on the route every day. From that +place, there would be no fear of our camels being stolen, and of our +being deserted in the desert. + +On arrival at the well a few days later, I delivered the weapons to +their owners as promised, they having followed our party. Souakim is +about 275 miles from the Nile at Berber. At Kokreb, about half-way, we +entered the chain of mountains that extends from Suez parallel with the +Red Sea to the south; many portions of this chain are four or five +thousand feet above the sea-level. The mountains were exceedingly +beautiful, their precipitous sides of barren rock exhibiting superb +strata of red and grey granite, with vast masses of exquisite red and +green porphyry. Many hills were of basalt, so black, that during an +entire day's journey the face of the country appeared like a vast desert +of coal, in broken hills and blocks strewed over the surface of the +ground. Kokreb was a lovely oasis beneath the high mountains, with a +forest of low mimosas in full leaf, and a stream running from the +mountains, the produce of a recent storm. Throughout this country there +are no rivers that should be noticed on a map, as the torrents are +merely the effects of violent storms, which, falling upon the mountains +several times during the rainy season from June to the end of August +tear their boisterous way along their stony course and dry up in a few +hours, becoming exhausted in the sand of the deserts. For some days our +course lay along a deep ravine between stupendous cliffs; this was the +bed of a torrent, that, after heavy storms, flowed through the +mountains, inclining to the east; in this were pools of most beautifully +clear water. In many places the nooks among the cliffs were fringed with +lovely green trees. It was extraordinary to observe the activity of the +camels in climbing the most difficult passes, and in picking their way +among the rocks and stones that obstructed the route. In many places +camels might be seen grazing upon the green mimosa bushes, that growing +among the rocks high upon the mountains had tempted the animals into +places that I should not have believed they could have reached. + +After a journey of twenty-four days from the Nile at Berber, we emerged +from the mountain-pass, and from the elevated embouchure we obtained a +sudden and most welcome view of the Red Sea. We now quickly descended: +the heat increased every hour; and after a long day's march, we slept +within a few miles of Souakim. On the following morning we entered the +town. + +Souakim is a considerable town; the houses are all built of coral. The +principal dwellings, and the custom house and Government offices are +situated on an island in the harbour. We were received with much +attention by the Governor, Moomtazze Bey, who very kindly offered us a +house. The heat was frightful, the thermometer 115 degrees F and in some +houses 120 degrees F. + +There is no doubt that Souakim should be the port for all exports and +imports for the Soudan provinces. Were a line of steamers established +from Suez, to call regularly at Souakim, at a moderate freight, it would +become a most prosperous town, as the geographical position marks it as +the nucleus for all trade with the interior. At present there is no +regularity: the only steamers that touch at Souakim are those belonging +to the Abdul Azziz Company, who trade between Suez and Jedda. Although +advertised for distinct periods, they only visit Souakim when they think +proper, and their rates are most exorbitant. + +There was no steamer upon our arrival. After waiting in intense heat for +about a fortnight, the Egyptian thirty-two gun steam frigate, +Ibralaimeya, arrived with a regiment of Egyptian troops, under Giaffer +Pasha, to quell the mutiny of the black troops at Kassala, twenty days' +march in the interior. The General Giaffer Pasha, and Mustapha Bey the +captain of the frigate, gave us an entertainment on board in English +style, in honour of the completion of the Nile discovery. Giaffer Pasha +most kindly placed the frigate at our disposal to convey us to Suez, and +both he and Mustapha Bey endeavoured in every way to accommodate us. For +their extreme courtesy I take this opportunity of making my +acknowledgment. + +Orders for sailing had been received, but suddenly a steamer was +signalled as arriving: this was a transport, with troops. As she was to +return immediately to Suez, I preferred the dirty transport rather than +incur a further delay. We started from Souakim, and after five days' +voyage we arrived at Suez. Landing from the steamer, I once more found +myself in an English hotel. The spacious inner court was arranged as an +open conservatory; in this was a bar for refreshments, and "Allsopp's +Pale Ale" on draught, with an ice accompaniment. What an Elysium! The +beds had SHEETS and PILLOW-CASES! neither of which had I possessed for +years. + +The hotel was thronged with passengers to India, with rosy, blooming +English ladies, and crowds of my own countrymen. I felt inclined to talk +to everybody. Never was I so in love with my own countrymen and women; +but they (I mean the ladies) all had large balls of hair at the backs of +their heads! What an extraordinary change! I called Richarn, my pet +savage from the heart of Africa, to admire them. "Now, Richarn, look at +them!" I said. "What do you think of the English ladies? eh, Richarn? +Are they not lovely?" + +"Wah Illahi!" exclaimed the astonished Richarn, "they are beautiful! +What hair! They are not like the negro savages, who work other people's +hair into their own heads; theirs is all real--all their own--how +beautiful!" + +"Yes, Richarn," I replied, "ALL THEIR OWN!" This was my first +introduction to the "chignon." + +We arrived at Cairo, and I established Richarn and his wife in a +comfortable situation, as private servants to Mr. Zech, the master of +Sheppard's Hotel. The character I gave him was one that I trust has done +him service: he had shown an extraordinary amount of moral courage in +totally reforming from his original habit of drinking. I left my old +servant with a heart too full to say good-bye; a warm squeeze of his +rough, but honest black hand, and the whistle of the train sounded,--we +were off! + +I had left Richarn, and none remained of my people. The past appeared +like a dream-the rushing sound of the train renewed ideas of +civilization. Had I really come from the Nile Sources? It was no dream. +A witness sat before me; a face still young, but bronzed like an Arab by +years of exposure to a burning sun; haggard and worn with toil and +sickness, and shaded with cares, happily now past; the devoted companion +of my pilgrimage, to whom I owed success and life--my wife. + +I had received letters from England, that had been waiting at the +British Consulate;--the first I opened informed me, that the Royal +Geographical Society had awarded me the Victoria Gold Medal, at a time +when they were unaware whether I was alive or dead, and when the success +of my expedition was unknown. This appreciation of my exertions was the +warmest welcome that I could have received on my first entrance into +civilization after so many years of savagedom: it rendered the +completion of the Nile Sources doubly grateful, as I had fulfilled the +expectations that the Geographical Society had so generously expressed +by the presentation of their medal Before my task was done. + + + +APPENDIX + + COMPUTATION OF MR. BAKER'S OBSERVATIONS. + HEIGHTS OF STATIONS ABOVE THE MEAN LEVEL OF THE SEA DETERMINED + BY BOILING-WATER OBSERVATIONS BY S. W. BAKER, Esq. + COMPUTED BY E. DUNKIN, Esq. OF GREENWICH OBSERVATORY. Feet. + + Tarrangolle. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2047 + Obbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3480 + Shoggo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3770 + Asua River . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2619 + Shooa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3619 + Rionga's Island . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3685 + Karuma, below falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3737 + Karuma, south of falls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3796 + South of Karuma, at river level. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3794 + M'rooli, river level, junction of Kafoor . . . . . . . . . . . 3796 + West of M'rooli, on road to Albert lake . . . . . . . . . . . 4291 + Land above lake, east cliff . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . 4117 + Albert N'yanza, lake level . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2448 + Shooa Moru, island of Patooan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2918 + Gondokoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . 1636 + +The above heights will be found to differ considerably from those given +by Mr. Baker in his letter written from Khartoum in May, 1865, and +published in the TIMES newspaper in June. This arises from Mr. Baker +having corrected his observations, whilst in the interior of Africa, +from what have since proved erroneous data: the above are the correct +computations of the same observations. + + + +REMARKS ON THE THERMOMETER B. W. USED BY MR. S. W. BAKER IN +DETERMINING HEIGHTS. By Staff-Commander C. George, +Curator of Maps, Royal Geographical Society. + +This thermometer was one of the three supplied by the Royal Geographical +Society to Consul Petherick, in 1861, and was made by Mr. Casella. + +At Gondokoro, in March, 1862, it was lent to Mr. Baker, who made all his +observations with it, and brought it back safe: it has, therefore, been +in use about 4 and 3/4 years. + +On November 9th, 1865, Mr. Baker returned it to the Royal Geographical +Society, and it was immediately taken to Mr. Casella, who tested its +accuracy by trying its boiling-point, in nearly the same manner as Mr. +Baker had made his observations. The result by two independent observers +was that the boiling-point had increased in its reading by 0 degree +point 75 in 4 and 3/4 years, or 0 degree point 172 yearly. + +On November 23d the thermometer was again tested by Mr. Baker at the Kew +Observatory. The observation was made under the same conditions as those +near the Albert N'yanza, as nearly as it was possible to make it. (By +immersion in boiling water.) The result gave the thermometer 0 degree +point 80 too much at the boiling-point. + +The readings of the thermometer have, therefore, been TOO MUCH; and by +REDUCING the readings, it ELEVATES all positions at which observations +were made. + +Table No. 1.--In this Table the error obtained at Kew Observatory has +been treated like that of a chronometer, the error being assumed +increasing and regular. + +Table No. 2 is to correct the height, computed by Mr. Dunkin, using the +quantity taken from Table No. 1. + +Table No. 3 is the final result of the observations for height, +corrected for instrumental error. + +TABLE No. 1. + +Table for Increased Reading of Thermometer, using 0 degrees 80 as the +Result of Observations for its Error. + + Month. 1861. 1862. 1863. 1864. 1865. + January. . . -- 0'143 0'314 0'487 0'659 + February . . -- '157 '328 '501 '673 + March . . . 0'000 '172 '344 '516 '688 + April . . . '014 '186 '358 '530 '702 + May . . . . '028 '200 '372 '544 '716 + June . . . . '043 '214 '387 '559 '730 + July . . . . '057 '228 '401 '573 '744 + August . . . '071 '243 '415 '587 '758 + September . . '086 '257 '430 '602 '772 + October . , . '100 '271 '444 '616 '786 + November . . '114 '285 '458 '630 0'800 + December . . 0'129 0'300 0'473 0'645 -- + + +TABLE No. 2. + +At the elevation of 3,500 feet, 1 Degrees equals about 520 feet, from +which the following-- + + Degrees Feet. Degrees Feet Degrees Feet. + 1'0 . . . 520 '7 . . . 364 '3 . . . 156 + '9 . . . 468 '6 . . . 312 '25 . . . 130 + '8 . . . 416 '5 . . . 260 '2 . . . 104 + '75. . . 390 '4 . . . 208 '1 . . . 52 + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg Etext The Albert N'Yanza, by Sir Samuel W. 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