76 files changed, 11343 insertions, 0 deletions

diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6833f05
--- /dev/null
+++ b/.gitattributes
@@ -0,0 +1,3 @@
+* text=auto
+*.txt text
+*.md text
diff --git a/39780-8.txt b/39780-8.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..1facae5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-8.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,3601 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Baltimore Hats, by William T. Brigham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Baltimore Hats
+       Past and Present
+
+Author: William T. Brigham
+
+Release Date: May 23, 2012 [EBook #39780]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BALTIMORE HATS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bethanne M. Simms, Matthew Wheaton and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+    BALTIMORE HATS
+
+    PAST AND PRESENT.
+
+
+    AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE HAT INDUSTRY OF BALTIMORE
+    FROM ITS EARLIEST DAYS TO THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+
+    BY
+
+    WILLIAM T. BRIGHAM.
+
+
+    _PRINTED FOR GRATUITOUS CIRCULATION ONLY._
+
+
+    BALTIMORE:
+    MDCCCLXXXX.
+
+
+    COPYRIGHTED, 1890, BY WM. T. BRIGHAM.
+
+    _Press and Bindery of
+    Isaac Friedenwald, Baltimore, Md._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+It is not impossible that some useful information may be conveyed by
+this book. Should these pages prove of such service, their cost in
+labor is most cheerfully donated.
+
+This volume is composed of a series of articles which appeared in a
+Trade Journal, covering a period of two years from 1887 to 1889. It
+must be accepted as but a brief history of an industry long identified
+with Baltimore.
+
+Thanks are due the Librarian of the Maryland Historical Society and
+Mr. B. R. Sheriff for favors in lending rare and valuable old City
+directories; also to the many citizens who kindly aided and assisted
+in the search for needed information.
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+BALTIMORE, 1890.
+
+
+
+
+    CONTENTS.
+
+
+     1. INTRODUCTORY
+     2. EARLY DAYS
+     3. PERIOD OF THE REVOLUTION
+     4. AFTER THE REVOLUTION
+     5. EARLY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
+     6. SOME OLD FIRMS
+     7. PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE
+     8. JACOB ROGERS
+     9. OLD METHODS
+    10. JOHN PETTICORD
+    11. MIDDLE OF THE CENTURY
+    12. FASHIONS
+    13. NEW DEVELOPMENTS
+    14. GROWTH OF BUSINESS
+    15. HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT
+    16. MODERN IMPROVEMENTS
+    17. A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT
+    18. WAYS AND MEANS OF THE PRESENT TIME
+
+
+
+
+Baltimore Hats--Past and Present.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+No. 1.
+
+
+Past and present have each their independent significance. The past
+gives freely to us the experiences of others, the present a suitable
+opportunity to improve upon what has already occurred. With our
+observation and acceptance of these privileges so easily obtained, we
+reap the benefit of their advantages and unconsciously find ourselves
+the gainers both in capacity and intelligence. A history of the past,
+giving the record of events and circumstances existing before our own
+day, bringing to our knowledge the accomplishments, business
+enterprises and undertakings of our predecessors, is a profitable
+study, and the reader gratifies his curiosity in observing how
+differently things were conducted and managed a century ago as
+compared with the processes of the present day, exciting a sense of
+wonder at the rapid progress that has been made in a comparatively
+short period of time. Think of it! quite within the lifetime of many
+of us have been the most wonderful of inventions--the steam engine,
+steam vessels, the telegraph and other wonders and triumphs of
+electricity. The wildest fancy may not be styled visionary in
+anticipating the appearance of things still more surprising.
+
+[Illustration: THEN.]
+
+[Illustration: NOW.]
+
+Continued familiarity with the present system of making hats has the
+tendency in a great degree to prevent a recognition, until brought to
+our notice by comparison of the wide difference existing between the
+old and new methods, and this common every-day experience assists in
+making us unappreciative of the remarkable improvements that have been
+made in this branch of business.
+
+Only a half a century ago the time required to make a single fur hat
+from the prepared material was fully a week, and the average
+production was two hats per day per man. With the bowing of the fur,
+the forming and shrinking of the bodies, and the handwork of finishing
+and trimming, all of which by the aid of modern science and invention
+is to-day done by machinery more perfectly and completely at the rate
+in production of twenty times that of fifty years ago, while the
+sewing of a straw hat, which could hardly be done in an hour by the
+plodding work of the hand, stitch by stitch, is, by the rapid
+sewing-machine, made in a minute. When we think of the largest number
+of stitches our mothers and sisters could take in their needlework by
+hand and contrast it with the result of the sewing-machine that spins
+its twenty-two hundred stitches a minute, we are able to gain some
+adequate idea of the saving of labor, and while we complacently accept
+these marvellous accomplishments, the question whether it be to the
+poor and needy a loss or gain is still an undecided problem. With all
+the advantages now at our command, it appears to us a matter of
+surprise how our forefathers, with their apparently indifferent
+methods, could profitably succeed in their labors. With steam engines,
+sewing-machines and electricity, the quick accomplishments of the
+present compared with the slow movements of the past tend to make one
+think we are living in an age of wonders amounting almost to
+miracles.
+
+What would be the exclamation of the ghosts of our great-grandfathers
+who, with the rapid trot of an ox-team, drove to church miles away
+through the storms of winter to exemplify their devotion to the truth
+of their faith, if suddenly they could rise and observe the luxury of
+the present modes of transportation in convenient palace cars and
+palatial steamships, our comfortable and gaudy churches, and our easy
+ways of communicating instantly with those thousands of miles away
+from us? Aladdin's wonderful experiences, or the magical change by
+Cinderella's fairy god-mother, would appear tame to their intense
+surprise.
+
+[Illustration: RAPID TRANSIT IN OLDEN TIMES.]
+
+In a series of articles it is proposed to give an account of the
+growth of the hat manufacturing business, one of the most interesting
+of Baltimore's industries; how at an early period it was raised into
+conspicuous prominence in common with other enterprises undertaken in
+the active spirit which has always characterized Baltimore merchants
+as among the foremost of their time. They will also treat of its
+gradual growth and development, followed by a temporary decline of
+progress caused by the Civil War and its consequences, and finally of
+its triumphant stride to place itself again in line with other leading
+industries of this enterprising metropolis, for without doubt it holds
+to-day an enviable position among the different trades, a position
+acquired by the thoroughness, determination and perseverance of those
+engaged in its development.
+
+[Illustration: AN OLD TIMER.]
+
+
+
+
+EARLY DAYS.
+
+No. 2.
+
+
+The spirit of ambition and independence constituting the fundamental
+principles of manhood, and inspiring a nobleness of character which in
+time of the country's struggle for liberty helped to give her the
+benefits of wise counsel, noble patriotism and manly service, was
+early manifested by the neighboring colony of Virginia, as in the year
+1662 she ventured upon a practical plan to encourage the manufacture
+of hats by offering a premium of ten pounds of tobacco for every
+domestic hat made of fur or wool. What resulted from this generous act
+we are not informed, but there is no evidence that it in any degree
+stimulated the production of hats in that colony, and it is a noted
+fact that hat-making to any extent has never flourished south of
+Baltimore. This city seems to have been the southern boundary
+line--the geographical limit in that direction--of hat-manufacturing.
+As an offset to this enterprising manifesto of Virginia is a petition
+in the year 1731 of the hat-makers of London to the "Lords of Trade,"
+to enact a law forbidding the American colonists to wear hats not made
+in Great Britain. This law was passed, attaching a penalty of five
+hundred pounds sterling (twenty-five hundred dollars) for its
+violation.
+
+The archives of the New Jersey Historical Society for the year 1731
+show that there was one hatter in that colony, and from a history of
+Boston we learn that sixteen hat-makers of that town were affected by
+the edict of these despotic English law-makers.
+
+In this manner were the enterprises of the new continent checked and
+the attempt made to crush out that spirit of progress so manifest in
+the brightest of the English colonies. It was the continuation of such
+injustice and oppression that eventually inspired a rebellious spirit
+to take the place of patience and submission, ending in a revolt, the
+termination of which secured us liberty and justice and the
+announcement of our complete independence on the 4th of July, 1776.
+
+The style of hat of this period (1731) had the sides of the brim
+turned up, with a front of an easy curl, which, nearly resembling a
+cap-visor, made it in shape somewhat between a hat and cap; this seems
+to have been the first approach toward the "cocked" or three-cornered
+hat afterwards so extensively used, and to Americans the most familiar
+of past styles, from its being a fashion of the period of the
+Revolution, by which it became the prominent part of an historical
+costume. The arbitrary law before alluded to was afterwards modified,
+but an uncomfortable restriction continued to be enforced upon all
+manufactures, for in the year 1750 the English Parliament, among other
+unjust acts, enacted a law forbidding exportation of hats from one
+colony to another and allowing no hatter to have more than two
+apprentices at one time, "because the colonists, if let alone, would
+soon supply the whole world with hats."
+
+[Illustration: 1731]
+
+The French fashion of this time had the brazen characteristic of its
+brim rising erect from the forehead, a style seemingly in keeping with
+the then irritable condition and reckless agitation of the French
+people.
+
+Planché, in his "Cyclopædia of Costumes" (vol. 1, page 261), quotes a
+humorous description, evidently referring to this particular style, as
+follows: "Some wear their hats with the corners that should cover the
+forehead high in the air, these are called Gawkies; others do not half
+cover their heads, which, indeed, is owing to the shallowness of their
+crowns, but between beaver and eyebrows exposes a blank forehead,
+which looks like a sandy road in a surveyor's plan."
+
+[Illustration: 1750]
+
+From the year 1750 until after the Revolution there was but little
+change in the general character of style in men's hats: the custom of
+erecting the brims by tying or looping them up prevailed. Soon the
+elevation of the brim of 1750 was abandoned and a change made by
+looping it at the points of a triangle, producing the three-cornered
+or "cocked" hat. This was a becoming style we must admit, and one
+seemingly well suited to the independent, fearless and patriotic
+characteristics of our forefathers' traits, the possession of which at
+that time gave us all the comforts that are ours now. The "cocked" hat
+enjoyed a long popularity, continuing in fashion until near the close
+of the century, when the "steeple top" and "chimney pot" styles--slang
+terms for the high beavers--came into vogue, a style which Ashton, an
+English writer, designates as "the hideous head-covering that has
+martyrized at least three generations."
+
+[Illustration: 1760]
+
+Departure from settled and accustomed styles created the same furore
+and astonishment, and subjected the venturesome individual whose
+inclinations led an advance in fashion to the same exposure to
+ridicule as affects the "swell" of the present day, and the reporters
+of "society doings" then were as close observers, as keen in wit, and
+as unmerciful in criticism as any of their kin to-day. Planché,
+quoting from the _London Chronicle_ for 1762, refers to fashion of
+hats at that time as follows: "Hats," says the writer, "are now worn
+on the average six and three-fifths inches broad in the brim and
+cocked. Some have their hats open like a church spout or like the
+scales they weigh their coffee in; some wear them rather sharp like
+the nose of the greyhound, and we can designate by the taste of the
+hat the mood of the wearer's mind. There is a military cock and a
+mercantile cock, and while the beaux of St. James wear their hats
+under their arms, the beaux of Moorfields-Mall wear theirs diagonally
+over the left or right eye; sailors wear their hats uniformly tucked
+down to the crown, and look as if they carried a triangular apple
+pasty upon their heads."
+
+That "there is nothing new under the sun" is a maxim the truth of
+which is often verified within the limits of fashionable manners; thus
+the counterpart of the present captivating custom of carrying in the
+public ball-room or at the private party the collapsed "opera" hat
+under the arm is seen in the fashion of 1762, the only difference
+being, not as now, to doff the hat in the house, but when promenading
+the street the beau was to be seen with
+
+    "A pretty black beaver tucked under his arm,
+    If placed on his head it might keep him too warm."
+
+[Illustration: Folded Hat, 1762.]
+
+[Illustration: The 'Opera', 1887.]
+
+The folded hat of 1762 differed from the opera hat of the present day
+also in the softness of the crown, permitting its being flattened, and
+the brim, as if hinged front and rear, folded at the sides like the
+corners of a book, while the present opera hat, constructed with
+jointed springs, allows its cylindrical crown to be flattened down to
+a level with the brim, which keeps its fixed shape.
+
+Scharf's "Chronicles of Baltimore" give the copy of an inventory made
+in the year 1779 of the personal effects of one Thos. Edgerton, a
+citizen of the Province of Maryland, and among them is his hat,
+described as having a gold band and feathers. This hat evidently was
+the celebrated cavalier style that appears in many of the portraits of
+Rubens, Vandycke and Rembrandt, of all styles the prettiest and most
+picturesque ever introduced.
+
+The wide brim of the cavalier hat was arranged as suited the fancy of
+the wearer, some of whom allowed it to take its natural shape, some
+would wear it looped up on the side, and by others it was caught up
+and attached to the crown at different angles; in fact, it was modeled
+very much as the ladies now-a-days do the "Gainsborough," exercising
+their own individual fancy as to the treatment of the brim.
+
+[Illustration: The 'Cavalier', 1689]
+
+Identical with the interests of Baltimore were the industries of other
+towns of the colony of Maryland, and among the earliest records
+referring to the hat business are several advertisements found in the
+_Maryland Gazette_, published at Annapolis. In February, 1760, Chas.
+Diggs advertises "men's and boys' castor and felt hats." In 1761
+Barnet West advertises "gold and silver band hats, just imported from
+London," and in April, 1761, appears the advertisement of Nathaniel
+Waters, of Annapolis, who announces that he has for sale "silver and
+gold buttons and loops for hats, and that he carries on the hat-making
+as usual."
+
+About this time Annapolis, being in her palmy days, was the center of
+gentility and fashionable life; here was congregated the blue blood of
+English aristocracy, who strove to foster and cultivate the same
+courtly splendor and etiquette existing in old England, which brought
+to the venerable place the enviable fame of being considered the most
+fashionable of our colonial towns.
+
+[Illustration: THE BEAU OF 1762.]
+
+
+
+
+PERIOD OF THE REVOLUTION.
+
+No. 3.
+
+
+An indulgence of those inborn habits of luxury and fondness for rich
+and expensive dress by the wealthy land owners, comprising the large
+majority of the population of the Southern colonies, encouraged a
+demand for articles more elaborate and costly than those produced
+within the colonial territory; hence imported fabrics were by them
+largely preferred to those of domestic make. The gay and festive
+social life, and the means easily acquired from their profitable crops
+of cotton and tobacco, permitted indulgence in lavish expenditures for
+articles of fashionable attire and household elegance.
+
+The general customs of the people of the South had the effect of
+retarding the progress of ordinary trades by not affording sufficient
+patronage to encourage their successful undertaking; while, on the
+contrary, from the greater necessity with the Northern people of
+personal exertion and labor to provide the comforts of home life,
+sprung that support of manufactures which has so largely increased as
+to place the power and wealth of the country in their hands.
+
+The event of the American Revolution, however, somewhat changed this
+aspect of affairs. The genuineness of Maryland's loyalty was certainly
+in one way nobly demonstrated, and by an act of patriotic
+self-sacrifice, gave to her an unlooked-for reward in a prosperous
+future. Her people quickly espousing the cause of liberty, at once
+rejected articles of foreign make and gave choice to those of home
+production, thus stimulating industries in their midst which had not
+before flourished from lack of encouragement and support.
+
+Actuated by a feeling of sympathy for their fellow-citizens of
+Boston--whom the British Parliament in 1774 attempted to shut out from
+commercial intercourse with every part of the world--the citizens of
+Baltimore called a town meeting, unanimously recommending a general
+congress of delegates, to meet at Annapolis, to take action against
+this indignity on American liberties.
+
+The congress met June 22, 1774, offering their heartiest support not
+only in resolution, but in the more substantial way of money and food,
+as aid to their Boston friends in the resistance to British tyranny
+and oppression, supplementing these patriotic resolutions by one
+making the importation of English goods an act disloyal to the
+sentiment of American hearts.
+
+The earliest manufacturing hatter in Baltimore, of whom any definite
+knowledge can be obtained, was David Shields, who kept store at No. 14
+Gay street. As the location was on the east side of Gay and the
+seventh house from the corner of Baltimore street, it probably was
+about half-way between Baltimore and Fayette streets. Here he sold to
+his patrons the products of his "back shop" or factory, which was
+located on the south side of East, now Fayette street, at a point
+half-way between Gay and Frederick streets. Mr. Shields' father was
+from Pennsylvania. David Shields was born in the year 1737, and his
+descendants of to-day include some of the wealthiest and most refined
+citizens of Baltimore. In Scharf's "Chronicles of Baltimore" his name
+is mentioned, in connection with others, in the year 1769 as aiding by
+a general subscription in procuring an engine for the extinguishment
+of fires; this engine was for the "Mechanical Fire Company," and was
+the first machine of its kind in Baltimore, costing the sum of two
+hundred and sixty-four dollars.
+
+Unfortunately, the information gained of Mr. Shields' business career
+is so meagre as to leave much to the imagination, but it is natural to
+suppose that in 1769, being thirty-two years of age, he must have
+been established in business.
+
+That Mr. Shields was a public-spirited citizen is further proven by
+his connection with the First Baptist Society, being one of a
+committee constituted for the purpose of purchasing a lot upon which
+to erect a church; this was in 1773, two years before the Revolution.
+The church was built on Front street, upon the site now occupied by
+the Merchants' Shot Tower, and was the first Baptist Church erected in
+Baltimore.
+
+The _Federal Gazette_ announces the death of Mr. Shields, October 4,
+1811, in the seventy-fourth year of his age; his funeral taking place
+from his residence, which was over his place of business, on Gay
+street.
+
+What may have been the actual condition of the hat business of
+Baltimore just before the Revolution has been difficult to ascertain.
+Mr. Shields must have been in business during this period, and it is
+more than probable that in a town of the size of Baltimore at that
+date there must have been others engaged in this branch of business,
+but how many and who they were cannot be ascertained. It is very
+likely that the restriction placed by English rule upon most
+manufacturing industries prior to the Revolution operated
+detrimentally upon this industry also, and while the ordinary kind of
+wool felt hats were made by the hatter in his own shop, undoubtedly
+most of the fashionable hats sold and worn at that time were of
+English or French make. Paris (which then, as well as now, was the
+axis upon which revolved the world of fashion) possibly supplied the
+wants of Baltimore's highborn gentry, always famous for exquisite
+dress and refined taste, with the French chapeau--the _ton_ of those
+days.
+
+As there are no existing detailed statistics of the business of
+Baltimore during the Revolutionary War, the record of some business
+firms has been entirely lost, and although some trades have received
+slight mention in the published histories of the city, a trace of the
+existence of but two hatters, who afterwards continued in business, is
+to be found. Since it is known as a fact that fourteen hatters were
+engaged in business in Baltimore, not later than ten years after the
+close of the war, we have a right to suppose that more than two must
+have been in business during the existence of the war.
+
+Among the proceedings of the "Council of Safety" of Maryland,
+organized at the outbreak of the war, is found the following order:
+"March 2, 1776. The Council of Safety authorize Major Gist to contract
+for fifty camp-kettles and as many _hats_ as may be necessary for the
+battalion, not to exceed 7 shillings apiece." Again, April 6, 1776,
+"Commissary of Stores of Baltimore is ordered to send to Annapolis 200
+of the hats arrived from Philadelphia." Why Baltimore hatters did not
+supply the needed hats for Maryland militia we cannot say, but
+probably a sharp competition for so _large_ a contract wrested it from
+them.
+
+The adoption of the "cocked" hat in its various forms as a portion of
+the military costume of the Continental Army brought about the
+necessity of making a distinction between civil and military wear.
+
+After the close of the American Revolution France was in a state of
+civil insurrection, and the French "chapeau" of that time was
+constructed upon a plan somewhat similar to that of the "cocked" hat.
+With the termination of the French Revolution appeared the
+"steeple-top" hat, having a conical crown with stiff curled brim,
+drooping front and rear, being trimmed with a very wide band and
+ornamented in front with a huge metal buckle, a change radical enough
+from those preceding it, but admitting a question as to its
+comparative intrinsic beauty or to its being a more becoming part of
+male attire; the style withal certainly proved acceptable, for with
+slight modifications it has continued and is now embodied in the
+fashionable silk hat of the present time.
+
+Thus with the opening of the nineteenth century commenced the era of
+what may be correctly termed the _high_ hat. Ashton, in "Old Times,"
+says of the style of 1790-95: "The 'cocked' hat had gone out, and the
+galling yoke of the 'chimney pot' was being inaugurated, which was as
+yet of limp felt."
+
+[Illustration: 1795]
+
+In fashions prevailing at the opening of the new century, particularly
+those of wearing apparel both for ladies and gentlemen, Paris took the
+lead, and though with many articles to-day Parisian designs and ideas
+secure the largest share of popularity, yet in regard to hats for
+gentlemen it can proudly be said that American-made hats are ahead in
+point of style and quality, and are no longer dependent upon foreign
+ingenuity for assistance in securing for them a ready sale; in fact,
+no American industry to-day stands in a more enviable position
+relatively to foreign manufactures than does that of hat-making.
+
+The fancy for sentimental hits and political phrases indulged in by
+modern hatters seems to have been the rage at an earlier period, as is
+evident from the following, published in the London _Times_ of
+December 4, 1795: "If the young men of the present day have not much
+wit in their heads they have it at least in their _hats_." Among the
+pleasantries we have seen in this way are the following: "Not yours,"
+"Hands off," "No vermin," and "Rip this as you would a hot potato,"
+and other charming sallies of _refined_ and _elegant_ vivacity.
+
+But the wittiest linings are the political ones. The other day we
+observed one perfectly clean and tidy in which was written: "Avaunt!
+Guinea Pig," and on the lining of a very powdery hat that lay in the
+window of the same room were inscribed the two monosyllables
+"Off-crop." "Guinea pig" and "Off-crop" were probably local political
+distinctions of the day.
+
+[Illustration: A CITIZEN OF '76.]
+
+
+
+
+AFTER THE REVOLUTION.
+
+No. 4.
+
+
+Not until after the Revolution is it apparent that any attempt was
+made in Baltimore to concentrate the hatting industry into a
+legitimate business upon any extensive scale, or to separate the
+manufacturing from the retail branch of business; in fact, far into
+the new century was it the practice of those who manufactured
+extensively for the trade, to continue to keep in operation also a
+_retail_ establishment.
+
+The general system of conducting the hat business at the time of which
+we are now writing was for the hatter to have his "back shop" in the
+rear and accessible to the "front shop," where the proprietor and his
+"prentice hand" made the needed supply for the existing or future
+small demand likely to come; for hats in those days were "built" for
+service, not for show, and in a manner quite different from those
+suited to the modern requirement of almost a monthly change in style.
+Then the principle demand came from maturing youth, desiring to assume
+suitable dignity for entrance into manhood, by procuring a "beaver"
+which, unless he lived to a patriarchal age, might serve him during
+his natural life, and that, too, without fear of banishment from
+society for being out of the fashion.
+
+In the first "Baltimore City Directory," printed in the year 1796,
+appear the names of nineteen hatters; the business locations of some
+of the number, it is curious to observe, being at places hardly
+recognizable by those living at the present day.
+
+Gay street, prior to the year 1808, extended from the water to
+Griffith's bridge (now called Gay-street bridge), beyond which it was
+called Bridge street; German lane is now German street; East street is
+Fayette street, and the euphonious name of Cowpen alley is now
+dignified by that of Garrett street. Baltimore street was then called
+Market street, and for a long time after was often designated by
+either name.
+
+The following names and localities of hatters are found in the
+Baltimore City Directory published in 1796:
+
+    RICHARD AVERSON, German lane, between Howard and Liberty streets.
+    JOSEPH BURNET, Welcome alley, Federal Hill.
+    PETER BOND, 13 Bridge street, Old Town.
+    WILLIAM BRANSON, 131 Market street.
+    PETER BEZE, 31 Charles street.
+    FREDERICK DEEMS, Cowpen alley.
+    JOSEPH BURNESTON, 17 George street, Fell's Point.
+              "       Shop, 19 George street, Fell's Point.
+    GEORGE LITTIG, 141 Market street, Shop on "The Causeway."
+    ARNOLD LIVERS, Shop, 24 South Calvert street.
+    AARON MATTISON, Shop, East street, between Calvert and Gay.
+    WILLIAM MOCKBEE, East street, between St. Paul's lane and Charles
+        street.
+    GASPER MORELLI, 36 Charles street.
+    JOHN PARKS, Shop, 14 Light street.
+    JACOB ROGERS, 29 South street.
+    GEORGE SMITH, 101 Bond street.
+    DAVID SHIELDS, 14 North Gay street.
+    JOHN STEIGER, 250 Market street.
+    JOHN UNDERWOOD, Alley between St. Paul's lane and Calvert street.
+    DANIEL WEAVER, 19 Front street.
+
+Judging from localities here given, ten of this number were engaged in
+business as principals, the others were probably journeymen, working
+at their trade in the various shops in the town.
+
+JOHN PARKS, who did business at 14 Light street, had his residence at
+137 Market street, about the location now occupied by Clogg & Son as a
+Shoe store. In the year 1802, No. 137 Market street was occupied by
+John Walraven, Hardware and Silversmith, and John and Andrew Parks are
+in the Dry-goods business, at No. 2 Market space.
+
+WILLIAM BRANSON, at 131 Market street, appears to have continued
+business in the same place up to the year 1810. During the years
+1800-2 the firm was Branson & Son; their store was the second house
+west of Grant street, then called Public alley; the place is now
+occupied by Geo. Steinbach & Son as a Toy establishment.
+
+AARON MATTISON, whose shop, in 1796, was on East street, in 1799
+associated his son with himself in business, locating at 16 North Gay
+street, next door to David Shields. In 1802 Wm. Mattison, probably the
+son, opened a store at 180 Market street; the firm continuing at 16 N.
+Gay street as Aaron Mattison & Son. The next year W. Mattison appears
+at 72 Market street, following which no further record is found of
+this firm.
+
+No. 180 Market street was two doors east of Charles, on the north
+side, now occupied by Towner & Landstreet's Rubber store. No. 72
+Market street was also on the north side, second house east from
+Lemon, now Holliday street.
+
+PETER BOND, whose location was No. 13 Bridge street, continued as a
+hatter in the same place until the year 1806; afterwards he appears to
+have changed the character of his business, for in 1807 he is found to
+be a "storekeeper" at No. 9 Bridge street. No. 13 was on the north
+side of what is now Gay street, the seventh or eighth house beyond the
+bridge over the Falls. Peter Bond was a member of the committee of
+"Vigilance and Safety" organized by the citizens of Baltimore in the
+dark days of anxiety and trouble preceding the invasion of the city by
+the British in September, 1814.
+
+RICHARD AVERSON had his residence on German lane, between Howard and
+Eutaw streets. At that time there was but one dwelling-house on German
+lane between Hanover and Liberty streets. German lane, now German
+street, then extended only from Charles to Greene street. Mr. Averson
+kept his hat store at No. 4 County wharf, which was the lower terminus
+of South Calvert street; he had for his neighbors Gerard T. Hopkins,
+Peter Cox and George Mason, Grocers.
+
+DAVID SHIELDS continued in business at his old locality, 14 North Gay
+street, certainly until the year 1808, and probably up to the time of
+his death in 1811. In 1819 his place is found to be occupied by
+Francis Foster as a hat store.
+
+ARNOLD LIVERS would seem to have been the most peripatetic of hatters,
+and must have caused no little stir and comment among his
+fellow-tradesmen. Until 1801 he appears as solitary Arnold Livers,
+carrying on the hat business at 24 South Calvert street, where
+probably he had a retail "shop." In 1802 the Directory records:
+"Arnold Livers, 24 South Calvert street," and on Fayette street
+(probably his residence), also 70 Cumberland Row; Livers & Atkinson,
+35 Fell street, and Livers & Atkinson, 10 George street, Fell's Point.
+In 1804 Arnold Livers is still at 24 South Calvert street, also at 70
+Market space, and George Atkinson has succeeded to the firm of Livers
+& Atkinson. In 1810 it is Livers & Grover, 39 South, corner of Water
+street. From this time Mr. Livers disappears entirely; one may imagine
+what a commotion this evidently unsettled man of business must have
+raised during ten years of these varied and numerous changes, and
+possibly others of which the Directories give no account.
+
+So rapidly and effectively does time erase the evidence of former
+labors, and so quickly is the past forgotten, that one is surprised
+and disappointed at not finding more proof on record of what these
+worthy apostles of work may have done.
+
+Of the nineteen whose names are in the Directory of 1796, traces of
+the personal history of but two of the number can be found: these are
+David Shields, before alluded to, and John Parks. In Griffith's
+"Annals of Baltimore," John Parks is mentioned in the year 1784 as
+subscribing ten pounds to the funds raised by citizens for the purpose
+of elevating the courthouse to admit the extension of Calvert street.
+Then the courthouse stood in the bed of Calvert street, which it
+spanned, where since has been erected and now stands Battle Monument,
+commemorating the loss of Baltimore's brave citizens, who gave their
+lives in defence of their homes against British invasion in 1814.
+
+Among the patriots whose names are inscribed upon this monument by a
+grateful people, desiring in such way to honor and perpetuate the
+memory of those who sacrificed themselves in the defence of their
+homes and firesides, appears that of JOSEPH BURNESTON, a hatter, who
+is found in 1796 doing business at 19 George street, Fell's Point.
+Thus, while little else is known of Mr. Burneston's career, he is
+immortalized by a noble deed, and his name is handed down to coming
+generations to show what sacrifices were made in securing to us that
+freedom and comfort we now possess, sacrifices which should inspire us
+with the determination that when similar calls come we will be ready
+to answer as unhesitatingly as did this patriotic hatter.
+
+From the location of Mr. Burneston's place of business it may be
+inferred that he was only a hat-maker, having no "front shop" or
+retail establishment, but was merely a maker of hat bodies to be sold
+to retailers, who themselves finished and trimmed them ready for sale.
+
+Of the hatters of 1796 there is but one through whom can be
+connectedly traced Baltimore's hat industry from before the Revolution
+down to the present time; that one is JACOB ROGERS, whose
+long-continued business career brings personal knowledge of him down
+to a time quite within the recollection of some now living. Singularly
+enough, by this solitary instance are we able to connect hatting in
+1769 with that of 1890, for it is known that Mr. Rogers learned his
+trade with Mr. David Shields, who was in business in 1769, and engaged
+in their occupation to-day are several who were apprenticed to Mr.
+Rogers.
+
+[Illustration: IN READINESS.]
+
+
+
+
+EARLY IN THE XIX CENTURY.
+
+No. 5.
+
+
+So wonderful were the recuperative powers of the American people,
+after undergoing the trials and sacrifices consequent upon a
+protracted struggle for liberty, as to surprise the most sanguine
+advocates of self-government.
+
+Following the train of war came ruin and desolation, but freedom was
+the birthright of the people, who, though sorely tried by a tremendous
+outlay in blood and money, were by no means disheartened or
+discouraged, and without delay they cheerfully took in hand the task
+of renovation with the same resolute determination that characterized
+the conflict with their enemies.
+
+The contributions of Maryland to the country's wants during the war
+were always generous in both men and money. Baltimore, after
+recovering from the exhaustion consequent upon her constant
+participation in the seven long years' contest for freedom, commenced
+the foundation of her future commercial greatness, and early in the
+present century she had attained a commerce greater in extent than
+that of many older seaport towns. Baltimore "clippers" were celebrated
+for their marvelous speed, and their white sails were to be seen in
+the ports of every foreign nation.
+
+Baltimore kept steadily advancing in population and wealth; compared
+with her rivals, she was precocious. The town was settled in the year
+1730, and its increase shows evidence of growth that must have created
+a surprise in its early days similar to that now experienced by the
+development in a few weeks of a full-fledged Western city, with its
+thousands of inhabitants, from its humble foundation of a few
+straggling hamlets. New York was settled in 1614, Boston in 1630,
+Philadelphia in 1682, each being well on in existence before Baltimore
+was born.
+
+At the close of the Revolutionary War the population of Baltimore was
+5000; in 1800 it was 26,614. The first United States census, taken in
+1810, places the number at 35,580, and in 1820 it had grown to be a
+prosperous commercial city of 62,738 inhabitants.
+
+The persistent patriotism of Baltimore throughout the Revolutionary
+War was proverbial; the strong intelligence of a majority of its
+citizens, though of foreign birth, gave them an intuitive knowledge of
+the distinction between right and wrong, and a fine sense of honor and
+justice prompted them to act as well as theorize, consequently their
+personal convictions as to the allegiance they owed their adopted
+country enabled the city of their choice to assume a strong and
+patriotic attitude in behalf of America's struggle, and incited them
+to act with the native element in expelling from their midst all who
+indulged in hostile acts or expressions. But one sentiment prevailed
+in Baltimore during the period of the war--that of loyalty to country.
+The courteous attention and honor paid by citizens to many of those
+who attained distinction in the war lent great assistance to Baltimore
+in quickly recovering from the damage she had sustained, and gave to
+the city a renown for hospitality which has remained by her to the
+present day.
+
+Washington, Lafayette, Count Rochambeau, and many others united in
+unrestricted praises of Baltimore's patriotism and liberality, and
+General Vallette, who commanded a French division of troops, declared:
+"I will never forget the happy days I have passed among you, citizens
+of Baltimore, and I beg you will believe that your remembrance will be
+forever dear to my memory."
+
+The famous General Greene, of Rhode Island, on his way homeward from
+the war in the South, stopped in Baltimore and gave his impression of
+the city in 1783 as follows:
+
+"Baltimore is a most thriving place. Trade nourishes, and the spirit
+of building exceeds belief. Not less than three hundred houses are put
+up in a year. Ground rents are little short of what they are in
+London. The inhabitants are all men of business."
+
+The period from 1800-30, although interrupted by the war of 1812, when
+the city was made the immediate battle-ground, was marked by a
+wonderful growth in both commercial and industrial occupations, and,
+in common with the general prosperity of the place, hat-making also
+flourished. In 1810 Maryland is found, from the United States census
+reports, to have taken the lead in the production of fur hats. Aside
+from the custom with some retailers of making and finishing the hats
+they sold, we find in the year 1818 several firms engaged in the
+_manufacture_ of hats. The products of these factories were
+distributed throughout the entire South, a section the natural
+resources of which enabled its people to easily recuperate from the
+war and quickly become large purchasers and consumers of goods which
+they did not themselves manufacture. In addition to this desirable
+field of business was the region of the "Far West," then comprising
+Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, the rapid increase of which in
+population by emigration greatly enlarged the demand for the products
+of Baltimore's hat industry. This being the most accessible seaport
+city, regular traffic by wagon trains was established, connecting
+Baltimore with the West, and giving to the former such superior
+advantages as to enable its enterprising merchants to secure a large
+trade, which they long and tenaciously held.
+
+The city directories of that period were not, as now-a-days, issued
+annually, but at intervals of three or four years, and while
+furnishing much valuable information, cannot be relied upon for
+complete correctness, the main object of the compiler being to get the
+names of house-holders and business men, while many who were
+temporarily employed, and all who were unmarried though permanently
+employed, were omitted from registration. Thus the Directory of 1818
+does not give a full list of hatters in this city at that time, for
+while it appears that there were in operation in Baltimore twenty-five
+hat establishments in the year 1818 (five or six of which were
+extensive manufactories), the Directory does not show any fair
+proportion of the number that then must have been engaged in the
+occupation of hat-making. It may be safely estimated from the extent
+and the activity of this branch of business at that time, that it gave
+employment to at least three hundred hands.
+
+Before the year 1810 the "taper crown" or "steeple top" had yielded to
+the uncompromising demands of fashion, and a style appeared quite
+different from that which existed at the opening of the century. It
+had so expanded its crown as to become "bell" in place of "taper," a
+change so manifestly popular that the "bell crown" since that time,
+though subject in a greater or less degree to occasional alterations
+in its proportions, has been for a dress hat the generally accepted
+style.
+
+[Illustration: 1810]
+
+In the style of 1810, Fashion, indulging as she not infrequently does,
+in a gymnastic summersault from one extreme to another, went in this
+instance quite as far as prudence would allow: the crown was about
+seven inches in height and about eight and one-quarter inches across
+the tip, with a brim about two-and-a-quarter inches wide, the hat
+being thickly napped with long beaver fur and trimmed with a wide band
+and buckle. Following the year 1810 there came a reduction in heights
+of crowns as well as in the proportions of "bell," and a modified
+style prevailed until the year 1835, when it again developed into an
+extreme "bell" shape with a very narrow brim, a style so utterly
+extravagant as to bring it into ridicule.
+
+
+
+
+SOME OLD FIRMS.
+
+No. 6.
+
+
+Of the hatters engaged in business in Baltimore during the early part
+of this century, many are worthy of more than passing notice as men of
+honest character, strict in their dealings and successful in their
+business undertakings, gaining the respect of their fellow-townsmen
+and becoming honored and trusted citizens of a growing community.
+
+When it is known what were the social surroundings of the "old time"
+hatter in his youth, it seems a matter of surprise that such good
+fruit should spring from so unpromising soil.
+
+No one was supposed to be capable of conducting the retail hat
+business unless he had served his term of apprenticeship to the trade,
+and apprenticeship in those days was no trivial matter. It meant the
+surrender at an early age of home, with its parental influences--a
+most dangerous experience for the untrained youth to encounter--and
+was entered into by contract for a term of years, binding master and
+hand to its faithful execution; not merely a verbal agreement between
+parties themselves, but one solemnly executed by parent and employer,
+ratified and signed before a magistrate and made binding after all
+this legal form by the attachment of the portentous seal of the
+Orphans' Court, before the boy could be considered bounden as "an
+apprentice to the trade." This was virtually a surrender of all
+domestic control, giving to one not of "kith or kin" absolute
+guardianship of the boy. The habits and morals of the "'prentice" were
+often a secondary consideration, if not wholly neglected.
+
+Thus, as a class, the journeyman hatters often developed into loose,
+shiftless, migratory characters, spending their liberal wages freely,
+with no ambition beyond that of daily support; and the surprise is
+that from such a source came notably honorable men, whose lives seemed
+to contradict the whole theory of the influence of early training. To
+these worthy pioneers belongs the credit of laying a secure
+foundation for a trade that from humble beginnings has developed into
+one of the most prominent industries of the country, requiring
+extensive capital, liberal business capacity, and one that gives
+employment to a large, intelligent and skillful class of people.
+
+Among those conducting the hatting business in Baltimore at the
+opening of the present century, Mr. Jacob Rogers, from his long and
+successful business career, as well as from being the only one through
+whom it has been possible to connect this special industry as it
+existed before the Revolution, with that of the present time, ranks
+most prominently.
+
+What year Mr. Rogers commenced business cannot be ascertained, but as
+early as 1796, being nearly 30 years of age, he is found established
+at the corner of South and Second streets, and in the year 1844
+(almost the middle of another century), after the lapse of nearly
+fifty years, and while actively engaged in business pursuits, his life
+was suddenly ended; his funeral taking place from his residence, at
+South and Second streets, his home for more than half a century.
+
+About the year 1805 Mr. Rogers erected a large factory on Second
+street near Tripolet's alley (now Post-Office avenue). This building
+was about one hundred and fifty feet long, forty wide, and four
+stories in height. Afterwards a wing extension of considerable
+proportions was added.
+
+[Illustration: Hat shop of Jacob Rogers, built about 1805.]
+
+This establishment was one of the "big" concerns of the day, and Mr.
+Rogers was credited with conducting, at this time, the most extensive
+and prosperous hat business in the United States.
+
+To-day not a vestige remains of Mr. Rogers' factory, and upon its site
+is the extensive structure of the Corn and Flour Exchange. His store,
+at the corner of South and Second streets, still remains, however,
+having been remodeled from that of Mr. Rogers' time, the ground-floor
+being now occupied by H. W. Totebush as a cigar store.
+
+In 1819 Mr. Rogers took as partner in business his eldest son, George,
+the firm becoming Jacob Rogers & Son. In 1823 Mr. Rogers leased from
+the Carroll family the property No. 129 West Baltimore street, at the
+corner of Public alley (now Grant street), where a branch
+establishment was opened, both establishments being continued up to
+the time of Mr. Rogers' death, in 1844, at which time the firm was
+"Jacob Rogers & Sons," William, another son, having been admitted
+about the year 1835.
+
+Upon the occasion of celebrating the laying of the cornerstone of the
+Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in Baltimore, July 4, 1828 (a great event
+in the annals of the city), the exhibition of trades was a most
+prominent feature of the immense procession, and none made a finer
+display than the hatters. George Rogers commanded that division, a
+description of which is thus given in the Baltimore _Gazette and Daily
+Advertiser_ of July 5, 1828: "The hatters' car was drawn by four
+horses, showing the men at work in the several stages of hat-making.
+The group attracted much attention; they carried a banner with a white
+ground, and on the shield was a beaver resting on a scroll bearing the
+motto: 'With the industry of the beaver we support our rights,'
+crossed with implements of the trade, the whole supported by the
+motto: 'We cover all.'"
+
+Bazil Sollers commenced business in 1799 at No. 68 Market street, a
+location on the north side of the street, four doors east of what is
+now Holliday street. In 1803 he removed to No. 22 Market street, also
+on the north side, four doors west of Harrison street; this latter
+place was previously occupied by Brant & Hobby as a hat store in 1801,
+and by Stansbury & Hobby in 1802. Mr. Sollers continued in business on
+Market street until the year 1831, when he removed to North Gay, No.
+15, on the northwest corner of Front street. His factory was on East,
+now Fayette street, three doors east of Lemon street. Mr. Sollers
+continued in the manufacturing business until about the year 1840.
+
+James Gould & Co. started hat-manufacturing at No. 3 Water street in
+the year 1802. Water street at that time was numbered from Calvert to
+South street, subsequently from South to Calvert, and lately
+renumbered as formerly. No. 3, the second building from Calvert, is
+now occupied by J. E. Warner & Co., commission merchants. In 1807
+Joseph Cox succeeded to the business of James Gould & Co., and kept a
+retail store on the corner of South and Water streets. Mr. Cox had the
+reputation of making a superior class of hats, excelled by no
+manufacturer in the country, selling at both wholesale and retail.
+Requiring more extensive accommodations, he located his factory on
+the corner of Little Water and Calvert streets, where now stands the
+large warehouse of Keen & Hagerty, tinware manufacturers. In 1829,
+disposing of his hat business to Boston & Elder, he associated with
+himself his son James, the firm becoming "James Cox & Son, dealers in
+hatters' furs and wools," at No. 1 South Liberty street. In latter
+years, the members of this firm having acquired a competency, retired
+from business.
+
+Joseph Pearson was established as a hat manufacturer in 1809, having
+his shop on Green, now Exeter street, Old Town. He changed his
+business in the year 1824 to that of dealer in furs, for which
+Baltimore in early days was a good market, the _catch_ of the trappers
+of the Alleghanies and of the pioneers of the new West finding their
+way to Baltimore, and the otter and muskrat of lower Maryland,
+Virginia and North Carolina also coming in large quantities to this
+market. The fur business of Baltimore was then of sufficient
+importance for Jacob Astor to make Mr. Pearson his representative
+agent. In latter years the firm became Joseph Pearson & Son, dealers
+in hatters' furs and trimmings, at 260 Baltimore street. All the
+members of this firm being dead, Edward Connolly, who was in their
+employ, succeeded to the business, afterwards changing it to a general
+hat-jobbing business, which is still conducted by Edward Connolly &
+Son at 207 W. Baltimore street.
+
+John Amos was a well known and respected hatter of Old Town, who
+commenced business as early as the year 1809 at No. 39 Bridge street,
+on the north side of the present North Gay street, between High and
+Exeter. His "back shop," or factory, was on Hillen street. He
+continued business during the period of thirty years at the same
+place, and died in 1847 at the age of 67.
+
+
+
+
+PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE.
+
+No. 7.
+
+
+Gleaning more closely in the historic field of the early part of the
+century, others are found whose enterprise contributed largely to this
+important industry of Baltimore, and whose successful prosecution of
+the hat business maintained the credit and position won by their
+predecessors.
+
+In the year 1814 Runyon Harris erected a large hat factory on Fish,
+now Saratoga street. This building was about one hundred and
+twenty-five feet in length and two and a half stories high.
+
+The business of this establishment was carried on under the style of
+"The Baltimore Hat Manufacturing Co." While evidence cannot be given,
+it may be inferred that Mr. Harris must, before this date, have been
+engaged elsewhere in the city in the manufacture of hats, as others
+entering into business about this time are known to have been
+apprenticed to Mr. Harris.
+
+[Illustration: Ye old Hat Factory of Runyon Harris Balto. Erected in
+1814]
+
+In 1817 Aaron Clap & Co. commenced the retail hat business at 146
+Market street, on the north side, five doors east of St. Paul street,
+and probably identical with the present 104 East Baltimore street,
+recently occupied by John Murphy & Co., Publishers.
+
+Messrs. Clap & Co. having secured a good location by purchasing the
+factory of Runyon Harris, engaged extensively in the manufacturing
+business, which was continued by their several successors down to the
+year 1864, when results of the civil war (so disastrous to Maryland's
+manufacturing industries) caused its temporary abandonment, but the
+enterprise established by Messrs. Aaron Clap & Co. has, by an unbroken
+series of firms, continued to the present time, being now represented
+by Brigham, Hopkins & Co.
+
+In 1817 Henry Lamson kept a first-class retail hat store at No. 5
+South Calvert street, the locality now the southwest corner of Carroll
+Hall building. In 1822 the firm of Aaron Clap & Co. and Henry Lamson
+consolidated, making the firm Lamson & Clap, and continuing the retail
+business at No. 5 South Calvert street, in connection with
+manufactory. Mr. Lamson in 1827 went to the West Indies in search of
+health, and died on the island of St. Thomas. He was a gentleman of
+much social refinement, and was held in high esteem as a citizen.
+
+In the year 1827 the firm of Lamson & Clap was dissolved by the death
+of Mr. Lamson, and Mr. Wm. P. Cole was admitted, the firm becoming
+Clap, Cole & Co. After the death of Mr. Clap, which occurred in 1834,
+his widow's interest was retained and the firm was changed to Cole,
+Clap & Co.; following this, Mrs. Clap retired and Mr. Hugh J. Morrison
+became a member of the firm, which was made Cole & Morrison. In 1842
+Thaddeus and William G. Craft became interested, the firm becoming
+Cole, Craft & Co., still continuing business at No. 5 South Calvert
+street (the same place established by Lamson & Clap). About the year
+1850 the firm removed to No. 218 West Baltimore street, now 10 East
+Baltimore street and occupied by Likes, Berwanger & Co., clothiers. In
+1853 Mr. Cole associated with him his son, William R., the firm being
+Wm. P. Cole & Son. In 1857 the firm moved to No. 274 West Baltimore
+street, present number 46, where they remained until the year 1867,
+removing then to occupy the building which they had erected at No. 30
+Sharp street, now 24 Hopkins Place.
+
+In 1861 Mr. Wm. T. Brigham was admitted to the firm, it then becoming
+Wm. R. Cole & Co. In 1870 the firm name was again changed to Cole,
+Brigham & Co., which was dissolved in 1877 by the withdrawal of Mr.
+Brigham, in which year Mr. Brigham associated with Robert D. Hopkins
+as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, locating at No. 128 West Fayette
+street (present number 211), which firm of Brigham & Hopkins continued
+until 1887, when it was changed to Brigham, Hopkins & Co. by the
+admission of Isaac H. Francis.
+
+In 1884 Brigham & Hopkins erected the large and handsome building at
+the corner of German and Paca streets, which the present firm
+continue to occupy as a factory and salesroom.
+
+In 1810 Andrew Ruff is found at No. 72 Camden street, likely to have
+been his place of residence. Whether he was then engaged in business
+is not known, but in 1817 he had a factory on Davis street between
+Lexington and Saratoga streets, the site now occupied by the stables
+of the Adams Express Company. About the year 1822 he established a
+retail store at 158 Baltimore street. In 1842 the firm was Andrew Ruff
+& Co., at 194 Baltimore street. At one time Mr. Ruff was foreman in
+the manufacturing establishment of Clap & Cole.
+
+Henry Jenkins, in 1822, was a hat manufacturer at 28 Green street, Old
+Town, and from 1824 to 1830 Messrs. H. & W. S. Jenkins kept a hat store
+on the northeast corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets, where
+afterwards was erected the banking-house of Josiah Lee & Co., now
+occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company as a ticket office.
+
+Joseph Branson was a hatter in the year 1827 at 182 Market street. He
+was a son of William Branson, who was engaged in the same business
+from 1796 to 1817. Joseph Branson ranked as the fashionable hatter of
+that time. He was a man of considerable military distinction in the
+State. He raised and commanded the famous Marion Rifles, a superb
+military organization of the city, to which was accorded the honor of
+receiving General Lafayette upon his visit to Baltimore in 1824.
+
+Mr. Branson is said to have been the first to introduce a thorough
+system of military tactics in Baltimore. He served several terms in
+the City Council, and was an active, enterprising citizen. In the year
+1831 he went out of business and took the position of inspector in the
+custom house.
+
+Mr. Charles Grimes was a well-known hatter who commenced business at
+42 Baltimore street about 1823. In 1831 he removed to No. 29 North
+Gay, near High street. He evidently had a love for his first choice,
+as in 1833 he is found again at 42 Baltimore street. Mr. Grimes
+retired from business as early as the year 1839. He was extremely fond
+of the Maryland sport of duck shooting, in which he was associated
+with many of Baltimore's sporting gentlemen. In 1853 he removed to
+Philadelphia, enjoying a life of comfort and ease. He was an exemplary
+man in all the relations of life, and died in the year 1868 at the
+advanced age of 73.
+
+In 1810 John Petticord was learning his trade with Jacob Rogers, being
+then fourteen years of age. His honesty and faithfulness were
+appreciated by his employer, and in 1814 he occupied the position of
+foreman in Mr. Rogers' factory. After continuing in that capacity for
+some time he commenced the manufacture of hats on his own account,
+continuing it until the feebleness of age compelled him to abandon it.
+
+Thomas Sappington was a hat manufacturer who, in the year 1831, was
+located at No. 120 Baltimore street, which at that time was at or near
+the present number, 116 East Baltimore street. He had his factory on
+North street near Saratoga. It is known that he was in business for a
+number of years, but what year he commenced and when he abandoned
+business cannot be ascertained.
+
+Victor Sarata was a Frenchman who located in Baltimore as early as
+1838. He opened a retail store at 259 Baltimore street, and was the
+first one to introduce the silk hat in this city.
+
+Wm. H. Keevil was a hatter doing a retail business in 1842 at 66-1/2
+Baltimore street. He was evidently of the "buncombe" style, and
+conducted his business in a sensational manner, advertising
+extensively and brazenly, as will be seen from the following quotation
+from an advertisement of his printed in 1842:
+
+"Who talks of importing hats from England while _Keevil_ is in the
+field? Pshaw! 'Tis sheer folly. For while he continues to sell his
+beautiful hats at his present reduced prices, any such speculation as
+importing hats from Europe will be 'no go' or 'non-effect.' The
+hatters, therefore, on the other side of the Atlantic had better keep
+their hats at home, as it would be quite as profitable for them to
+send 'wooden nutmegs' and 'sawdust hams' to New England, or coals to
+Newcastle, as hats to Baltimore to compete with the well-known
+_Keevil_."
+
+His business existence could not have been of long continuance, as in
+1850 his name is not found in the City Directory.
+
+At the close of the first half of this century there were several who
+afterwards attained prominence both in business and a public capacity,
+among whom were Joshua Vansant, Samuel Hindes, Charles Towson, George
+K. Quail, James L. McPhail, P. E. Riley, John Boston, Ephraim Price,
+Robert Q. Taylor, Lewis Raymo and others, the last two mentioned being
+the only ones now living.
+
+
+
+
+JACOB ROGERS.
+
+No. 8.
+
+
+To one man more than any other belongs the credit of establishing upon
+an extensive scale the hat business, which in the early part of the
+present century was so prominently identified with the growth and
+prosperity of Baltimore; that person was Jacob Rogers, whose business
+career in his native city extended over a period of more than fifty
+years, fortified by a reputation that brought the universal respect of
+his fellow-citizens, and leaving a worthy example for those succeeding
+him.
+
+Jacob Rogers was born in the year 1766. As in those days boys were
+apprenticed at an early age, it may be supposed that when he was
+fifteen years old he was in the employ of David Shields, with whom it
+is known he served his term of apprenticeship at hat-making. In 1796
+Mr. Rogers is found the proprietor of a retail hat store at the corner
+of South and Second streets. He was an enterprising man, and succeeded
+in building up a business of large proportions. He died in 1842,
+possessed of a fortune amounting to three hundred thousand dollars, a
+large accumulation for those days. In 1805 he built an extensive
+factory on Second street, near Tripolet's alley--now Post-Office
+avenue--and adjoining the old Lutheran Church, the spire of which then
+contained the Town Clock; these old landmarks are now all removed and
+the location occupied by the stately edifice of the Corn and Flour
+Exchange. The number of hands employed by Mr. Rogers at his factory
+and "front shop" was about one hundred, including apprentices. His
+"plank" shop comprised five batteries, aggregating thirty men; in the
+finishing shop he employed about twenty-five, and he had usually bound
+to him as many as fifteen apprentices. This would appear to be a large
+force for a hat-manufacturing concern of that early period, but it
+must be remembered that the manual labor bestowed upon one hat then
+was more than that on some thousands in the present day of
+labor-saving machinery.
+
+That Mr. Rogers was a strict disciplinarian and an excellent business
+man is proven by the perfect control he exercised over the large
+number in his employ, whom he ruled with a firm hand yet with a wise
+judgment, and while rebuking any disobedience of orders, was feared,
+respected and loved for his strict sense of honor, justice and
+propriety.
+
+He boarded under his own roof nearly all his apprentices to the trade;
+a few were privileged to lodge at home, while their board was
+supplied by their master, as one of the stipulations of their
+indenture; so Jacob Rogers' immediate family, which was not a small
+one, was greatly enlarged by the addition of fifteen to twenty wild,
+untamed "prentice" boys. What would have been the domestic condition
+of such a family without the ruling influence of a stern master only
+those can imagine who know the kind of material of which the
+journeyman hatter of those days was composed. He was a veritable
+tramp.
+
+As a rule with Mr. Rogers, chastisement immediately followed
+misconduct; with him the present was the opportune time for
+punishment, and whether in the home, the shop, or on the street, any
+of the shop-boys were found doing wrong, correction was given in the
+then customary way--by flogging.
+
+Mr. Rogers was a conscientious member of the Methodist Church, and
+maintained a high character for honesty and probity, and recognized as
+a fair man in all his dealings.
+
+A good story is told to show how, though driving a keen bargain, he
+was careful not to misrepresent. In his store one day he was divulging
+to a friend some of the secrets of his business, showing how
+successfully a _prime_ beaver-napped hat could be made with the
+slightest sprinkling of the valuable beaver fur, a trick just then
+discovered. Soon after a purchaser appeared inquiring for a
+beaver-napped hat. Mr. Rogers expatiated upon the marvelous beauty of
+the "tile," and his customer put the question: "Mr. Rogers, is this a
+genuine beaver hat?" "My dear sir," said Mr. Rogers, "I pledge my word
+that the best part of the material in that hat is pure beaver." The
+hat was bought and paid for and the customer departed, well satisfied
+with his purchase. At once Mr. Rogers was catechised by his friend,
+who had earnestly watched the trade, remarking: "Why, Mr. Rogers, did
+you not tell me that there was but a trifling amount of beaver in that
+hat you just sold, and you, a church member, so misrepresent
+to a customer?" "My friend," replied Mr. Rogers, "I made no
+misrepresentation, I told my customer the honest fact, that the _best_
+part of the material of which the hat was made was pure beaver, and so
+it was."
+
+The journeyman hatter of Mr. Rogers' time was a character, migratory
+in his ways, his general habit being to work for a short time--a
+season or less in one place--then, from desire of change or lack of
+employment, to seek for pastures new. As railroad travel was not then
+thought of, and stage-coach conveyance a luxury at most times beyond
+the pecuniary means of the itinerant hatter, the journey was usually
+made on foot.
+
+Application for work could not be made to the proprietor, but must
+necessarily go through the medium of an employee. Frequently an
+applicant in straitened circumstances who failed to be "shopped,"
+appealed to his more fortunate fellow-workmen to relieve his destitute
+condition, who always made a ready and hearty response by providing
+for his immediate wants and starting him again on his pilgrimage with
+a light heart and a wish for good luck. This constant wandering habit
+frequently brought the hatter of those days to a condition of abject
+dependence, and supplied a large proportion of that vagrant class now
+denominated "tramps." It was often the boast of these hatter "tramps"
+that in the period of a year or two they would make the tour of the
+entire country from Portland, Maine, to Baltimore in the South, and
+Pittsburg, then "far west," "shopping" awhile in some town or village
+and then marching on in search of another chance.
+
+[Illustration: Hat Store of Jacob Rogers.]
+
+In the "season" when labor was in demand good workmen did not apply in
+vain, but most hat factories were subject to dull times between
+seasons, necessitating a reduction in the number of hands. This
+general plan was productive of irregularity in the habits of the
+workman, allowing him to have no settled place of habitation.
+Baltimore, however, was an exception to the general rule, her
+factories providing constant employment for her workmen, thus
+encouraging a deeper interest in their vocation.
+
+It is said that in business Mr. Rogers never knew what dull times
+were; he kept his hat factory in active operation all the year round.
+This prosperous condition of things had the tendency to make the
+Baltimore hatter somewhat of a permanent settler, thereby identifying
+him more closely with the interests and the growth of his own city,
+and causing him to become personally concerned in its success and
+prosperity; an experience quite different from that of his
+fellow-workmen elsewhere, who were constantly changing their
+habitation. Thus the Baltimore hatter was reared under conditions
+favorable to his improvement by serving his apprentice days under the
+influence of a conscientious master. The effect of this early training
+was manifest in his character as a good citizen ever after, often
+securing for him in the place of his birth positions of trust, and
+many of Baltimore's best citizens, and some of her noblest men,
+received their early training in the model hat-shops of their own
+city.
+
+With the growing trade of the city, the business of hat-making kept
+steady pace. The prosperity of the South, and the constant development
+of the West, provided Baltimore with a wide outlet for her products.
+Through the business channels of this young and enterprising city
+flowed a large proportion of the products of the mills and factories
+of New England, assisting materially the business activity of the
+place, and it is quite likely that the interests of Baltimore and New
+England at that time being so connected is an explanation why so many
+New England people migrated to Baltimore in those days of her
+prosperity.
+
+With characteristic energy and enterprise, Mr. Rogers extended his
+business, pushing forward into new fields as the settlement of the
+country advanced. Besides a large trade with the entire South, the
+wagon-trains, which were the expresses of those days, distributed his
+goods throughout the States of Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee,
+thus securing to him at that time the most extensive business in hat
+manufacture conducted by any one firm in the United States.
+
+Fortune favored Mr. Rogers, and during his whole business career there
+was no interruption in the progress of this industry in Baltimore. Not
+until his death, or after the middle of the century, was there any
+noticeable decline.
+
+The eventful business career and commendable private life of Mr.
+Rogers ended on the 10th of April, 1842, he falling suddenly in the
+old Light-street Methodist Church while attending divine service. The
+Baltimore _Sun_ of April 11, 1842, mentioned his death as follows:
+
+"The illness of Jacob Rogers, Esq., occurred in Light-street Church;
+he fell in a faint from which he died an hour after at his residence,
+No. 9 South street. He was well known and respected as one of the most
+worthy, industrious, and valuable of our citizens of Baltimore."
+
+[Illustration: WESTERN EXPRESS, 1825.]
+
+
+
+
+OLD METHODS.
+
+No. 9.
+
+
+Just as the first half of the present century was expiring, an
+invention was made that at once revolutionized the whole system of
+hat-making. A machine was patented in the United States by H. A. Wells,
+in the year 1846, which successfully accomplished the work of making
+or forming a hat in a very short space of time, which heretofore had
+required the slow, tedious and skillful labor of the hands, thus so
+equally dividing the century that the first half may be practically
+considered as following the _old_ method, and the latter half as using
+the _new_ method.
+
+So remarkable was this invention that its introduction quickly
+produced a change in the character of hats by greatly reducing their
+cost of manufacture, together with a change in the manner of
+conducting the hat business. To show up the _old_ method of
+hat-making that existed prior to the use of the Wells machine is the
+purpose of this chapter, the greater part of the information here
+given having been gained from an article in "Sears' Guide to
+Knowledge," published in 1844.
+
+Let us enter a Baltimore hat "shop" of fifty years ago and watch the
+making of a single hat. Fur and wool constitute the main ingredients
+of which hats have always been made, because possessing those
+qualities necessary for the process of "felting," the finer and better
+class of hats being made of the furs of such animals as the beaver,
+bear, marten, minx, hare and rabbit. The skins of these animals after
+being stripped from the body are called "pelts"; when the inner side
+has undergone a process of tanning the skins obtain the name of "furs"
+in a restricted sense, and the term is still more restricted when
+applied to the hairy coating cut from the skin.
+
+The furs to which the old-time hatter gave preference were the beaver,
+the muskrat, the nutria, the hare and the rabbit, of which the first
+was by far the most valuable. These animals all have two kinds of hair
+on their skins, the innermost of which is short and fine as down, the
+outermost, thick, long and more sparing, the former being of much use,
+the latter of no value to the hatter. After receiving the "skins" or
+"pelts," which are greasy and dirty, they are first cleaned with soap
+and water, then carried to the "pulling-room," where women are
+employed in pulling out the coarse outer hairs from the skins, which
+is done by means of a knife acting against the thumb, the fingers and
+thumb being guarded by a short leather shield. The skins are then
+taken and the fur cut or "cropped" from them, which is done by men
+dexterously using a sharp knife, formed with a round blade, such as is
+used now-a-days in the kitchen as a "chopping knife." By keeping this
+knife constantly moving across the skin the fur is taken off or
+separated without injury to the skin, which is to be tanned for
+leather or consigned to the glue factory. The cutting of furs,
+however, had become before 1844 a business in some measure conducted
+by itself, and a machine had been invented to separate the fur from
+the skin, which, though it might be considered now a simple affair,
+was at that time looked upon as a wonder.
+
+[Illustration: FUR-CUTTING MACHINE.]
+
+We have said the women in the "pulling-room" cut, tear, or pull out
+the long, coarse hairs from the pelts, and that these hairs are
+useless to the hatter. But it is impossible completely to separate the
+coarse from the fine fur by these means, and therefore the fur, when
+cropped from the pelt, is conveyed to the "blowing-room," finally to
+effect the separation. The action of the blowing machine is
+exceedingly beautiful, and may perhaps be understood without a minute
+detail of its mechanism. A quantity of beaver or any other fur is
+introduced at one end near a compartment in which a vane or fly is
+revolving with a velocity of nearly two thousand rotations in a
+minute. We all know, even from a simple example of a lady's fan, that
+a body in motion gives rise to a wind or draught, and when the motion
+is so rapid as is here indicated, the current becomes very powerful.
+This current of air propels the fur along a hollow trunk to the other
+end of the machine, and in so doing produces an effect which is as
+remarkable as valuable. All the coarse and comparatively valueless fur
+is deposited on a cloth stretched along the trunk, while the more
+delicate filaments are blown into a receptacle at the other end.
+Nothing but a very ingenious arrangement of mechanism could produce a
+separation so complete as is here effected; but the principle of
+action is not hard to understand. If there were no atmosphere, or if
+an inclosed place were exhausted of air, a guinea and a feather,
+however unequal in weight, would fall to the ground with equal
+velocity, but in ordinary circumstances the guinea would obviously
+fall more quickly than the feather, because the resistance of the air
+bears a much larger ratio to the weight of the feather than that of
+the guinea. As the resistance of air to a moving body acts more
+forcibly on a light than a heavy substance, so likewise does air when
+in motion and acting as a moving force. When particles of sand or
+gravel are driven by the wind, the lightest particles go the greatest
+distance. So it is with the two kinds of fur in the "blowing machine,"
+those fibers which are finest and lightest are driven to the remote
+end of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: BLOWING ENGINE.]
+
+The "body," or "foundation," of a good beaver hat is generally made of
+eight parts rabbit's fur, three parts Saxony wool, and one part of
+llama, vicunia, or "red" wool. A sufficient quantity of these for one
+hat (about two and a half ounces) is weighed out and placed in the
+hands of the "bower." On entering the "bowing-room" a peculiar
+twanging noise indicates to the visitor that a stretched cord is in
+rapid vibration, and the management of this cord by the workman is
+seen to be one of the many operations in hatting wherein success
+depends exclusively on skillful manipulation. A bench extends along
+the front of the room beneath a range of windows, and each "bower" has
+a little compartment appropriated to himself. The bow is an ashen
+staff from five to seven feet in length, having a strong cord of
+catgut stretched over bridges at the two ends. The bow is suspended in
+the middle by a string from the ceiling, whereby it hangs nearly on a
+level with the work-bench, and the workman thus proceeds: The wool and
+coarse fur, first separately and afterwards together, are laid on the
+bench, and the bower, grasping the staff of the bow with his left hand
+and plucking the cord with his right hand by means of a small piece of
+wood, causes the cord to vibrate rapidly against the fur and wool. By
+repeating this process for a certain time, all the original clots or
+assemblages of filaments are perfectly opened and dilated, and the
+fibers, flying upwards when struck, are, by the dexterity of the
+workman, made to fall in nearly equal thickness on the bench,
+presenting a very light and soft layer of material. Simple as this
+operation appears to a stranger, years of practice are required for
+the attainment of proficiency in it.
+
+[Illustration: BOWING]
+
+The bowed materials for one hat are divided into two portions, each of
+which is separately pressed with a light wicker frame; the light mass
+of fluffy fur, after being pressed with the frame, is covered with a
+wet cloth, over which is placed a piece of oil-cloth or leather called
+a "hardening skin," until, by the pressure of the hands backwards and
+forwards all over the skin, the fibers are brought closer together,
+the points of contact multiplied, the serrations made to link
+together, and a slightly coherent fabric formed. These two halves, or
+"batts," are then formed into a hollow cap by a singular contrivance.
+One of the "batts," nearly triangular in shape, and measuring about
+half a yard in each direction, being laid flat, a triangular piece of
+paper, smaller in size than the batt, is laid upon it, and the edges
+of the batt, being folded over the paper, meet at the upper surface,
+and thus form a complete envelope to the paper. The two meeting edges
+are soon made to combine by gentle pressure and friction, and another
+"batt" is laid on the other in a similar way, but having the meeting
+edges on the opposite side of the paper. The double layer, with the
+enclosed paper, are then folded up in a damp cloth and worked by hand;
+the workman pressing and bending, rolling and unrolling, until the
+fibers of the inner layer are incorporated with those of the outer. It
+is evident that were there not a piece of paper interposed, the whole
+of the fibers would be worked together into a mass by the opposite
+sides felting together, but the paper maintains a vacancy within, and
+when withdrawn at the edge which is to form the opening of the cap, it
+leaves the felted material in such a form as to constitute, when
+stretched open, a hollow cone.
+
+The "battery" is a large kettle or boiler open at the top, having a
+fire beneath it, and eight planks ascending obliquely from the margin,
+so as to form a sort of octagonal work-bench, five or six feet in
+diameter, at which eight men may work; the planks are made of lead
+near the kettle, and of mahogany at the outer part, and at each plank
+a workman operates on a conical cap until the process of felting or
+"planking" is completed. The "battery" contains hot water slightly
+acidulated with sulphuric acid. The cap is dipped into the hot liquor,
+laid on one of the planks, and subjected to a long felting process; it
+is rolled and unrolled, twisted, pressed, and rubbed with a piece of
+leather or wood tied to the workman's hand, and rolled with a
+rolling-pin. From time to time the cap is examined, to ascertain
+whether the thickness is sufficient in every part, and if any
+defective places appear, they are wet with a brush dipped in the hot
+liquor, and a few additional fibers are worked in. Considerable skill
+is required in order to preserve such an additional thickness of
+material at one part as shall suffice for the brim of the hat. When
+this felting process has been continued about two hours, it is found
+that the heat, moisture, pressure and friction have reduced the cap to
+one-half its former dimensions, the thickness being increased in a
+proportionate degree, assuming a conical shape.
+
+The "cap" is then taken to the "water-proofing" or "stiffening" room,
+where the odor of gum, resins and spirits gives some intimation of the
+materials employed. Gum-lac, gum-sandrach, gum-mastic, resin,
+frankincense, copal, caoutchouc, spirits of wine and spirits of
+turpentine, are the ingredients (all of a very inflammable nature) of
+which the water-proofing is made. This is laid on the cap by means of
+a brush, and the workman exercises his skill in regulating the
+quantity at different parts, since the strength of the future brim and
+crown depends much on this process.
+
+After another heating in a hot room, called "stoving," by which the
+spirit is evaporated, the exterior of the cap is scoured with a weak
+alkali, to remove a portion of the gummy coating, and thereby enable
+the beaver fur with which it is to be "napped" or "coated," to adhere.
+
+A layer of beaver fur is spread, and, by means of the "hardening
+stick," is pressed and worked into a very delicate and light felt,
+just coherent enough to hold together. This layer, which is called a
+"ruffing" or "roughing," is a little larger than the cap-body, and to
+unite the two, another visit to the "battery" is necessary. The cap
+being softened by immersion in the hot liquor, the "ruffing" is laid
+on it, and patted down with a wet brush, a narrow strip of beaver
+being laid round the inside of the cap to form the underside of the
+future brim. The beavered cap is then wrapped in a woolen cloth,
+immersed frequently in the hot liquor, and rolled on the plank for the
+space of two hours. The effect of this rubbing and rolling is very
+curious, and may be illustrated in a simple manner: if a few fibers of
+beaver fur be laid on a piece of broadcloth, covered with tissue
+paper, and rubbed gently with the finger, they will penetrate through
+the cloth and appear on the opposite side. So, likewise, in the
+process of "ruffing," each fiber is set in motion from root to point,
+and enters the substance of the felt cap. The hairs proceed in a
+pretty straight course, and just enter the felt, with the substance of
+which they form an intimate union. But if the rolling and pressing
+were continued too long, the hairs would actually pass through the
+felt, and be seen on the inside instead of the outside of the cap; the
+workman therefore exercises his judgment in continuing the process
+only so long as is sufficient to secure the hairs in the felt firm
+enough to bear the action of the hat-brush in after-days.
+
+At length the cap is to assume somewhat the shape of a hat, before it
+finally leaves the "battery." The workman first turns up the edge of
+the cap to the depth of about an inch and a half; and then draws the
+peak of the cap back through the centre or axis so far as not to take
+out the first fold, but to produce an inner fold of the same depth.
+The point being turned back again, produces a third fold, and thus the
+workman proceeds, till the whole hat has acquired the appearance of a
+flattish circular piece, consisting of a number of concentric folds or
+rings, with the peak in the centre. This is laid on the "plank," where
+the workman, keeping the substance hot and wet, pulls, presses and
+rubs the centre until he has formed a smooth flat portion equal to the
+intended crown of the hat. He then takes a cylindrical block, on the
+flat end of which he applies the flattened central portion of the
+felt, and by holding a string down the curved sides of the block, he
+causes the surrounding portion of the felt to assume the figure of the
+block. The part which is to form the brim now appears a puckered
+appendage round the edge of the hat; but this puckered edge is soon
+brought to a tolerably flat shape by pulling and pressing.
+
+The workman then raises and opens the nap of the hat by means of a
+peculiar sort of comb, and then shears the hairs to a regular length.
+Connoisseurs in these matters are learned as to the respective merits
+of "short naps" and "long naps," and by the shearer's dexterity these
+are regulated. The visitor recognizes nothing difficult in this
+operation, yet years of practice are necessary for the attainment of
+skill therein, since the workman determines the length of the nap by
+the peculiar position in which the long, light shears are held. A nap
+or pile as fine as that of velvet can be produced by this operation.
+
+However carefully the process of "blowing" may be performed in order
+to separate the coarse fibers of the fur from the more delicate, there
+are always a few of the former left mingled with the latter, and these
+are worked up during the subsequent processes. Women are employed,
+therefore, after the hats have left the "finishers," in picking out
+with small tweezers such defective fibers as may present themselves on
+the surface of the hats.
+
+Lastly, the hat is placed in the hands of a workman whose employment
+requires an accurate eye and a fertile taste in matters of shape and
+form: this is the "shaper." He has to study the style and fashion of
+the day, as well as the wishes of individual purchasers, by giving to
+the brim of the hat such curvatures in various directions as may be
+needed. Simple as this may appear, the workman who possesses the
+requisite skill to give the acceptable curl to the brim which is to
+create the finishing touch for the hat is a desirable hand, and can
+command a high rate of wages.
+
+Thus, in our imaginary tour through an old-fashioned hat factory, we
+have seen the many skillful manipulations then required to make a hat,
+which, when compared with modern processes, awaken in our minds a
+sense of wonder at the change.
+
+
+
+
+JOHN PETTICORD.
+
+No. 10.
+
+
+The subject of this article, who died in Baltimore, October 11th,
+1887, in the 92d year of his age, was probably the oldest hatter in
+the United States. His identity with Baltimore hatting all the days of
+his life made him prominent in connection with that industry. Born but
+a few years after the thirteen states had by compact formed a
+republic, Washington being President of the United States, Mr.
+Petticord lived to see in office every President down to that of
+President Cleveland.
+
+When he was a young man of business, savages roamed and tented where
+beautiful and populous cities with all the advantages of refinement
+and art now exist.
+
+During his lifetime the population of his own city changed from 25,000
+to 400,000, and the United States extended its area of territory from
+the limits of the thirteen original states, which was 367,000 square
+miles, to upwards of 3,000,000, increasing its population from
+5,000,000 to 60,000,000.
+
+When John Petticord first made hats, the "Cocked" or "Continental"
+style was in vogue. No more curious museum could be collected than
+specimens of the various freaks of fashion in hats that appeared
+during the lifetime of this old hatter.
+
+John Petticord was born in Baltimore in 1796. At an early age he was
+apprenticed to John Amos to learn the trade of hatting; soon after
+finishing his service of apprenticeship, he secured work in the
+establishment of Jacob Rogers. He was faithful to his duties, serving
+his master with that same conscientiousness that he would have done
+for himself, soon becoming foreman of Mr. Rogers' extensive factory.
+After serving with Mr. Rogers for some years, he entered into business
+as a manufacturer on his own account, and continued until feebleness
+of age compelled him to abandon it. He was a man of quiet, simple
+habits, his chief ambition being to lead an upright life, and appear
+before God and his fellow-creatures an honest man.
+
+John Petticord was exemplary in character and habits, modest and
+gentle in his disposition, pure in his faith and in his living; he had
+no enemies, and was always known as a reliable man. During his long
+career as foreman or master of the shop, he never had a quarrel or a
+serious difficulty with the many who came under his control. He never
+drank intoxicating beverages, although in his early days that was the
+general custom, which, with hatters, was unfortunately the universal
+habit. His manliness and strength of character were also well
+displayed by his never chewing or smoking tobacco. He was patient and
+methodical, an indefatigable worker at his trade, believing that
+undivided attention to his work was a duty he owed to others.
+
+John Petticord was a patriot, being one of that noble band who
+fearlessly stood and successfully resisted the British attack upon
+Baltimore in 1814. At that time he was a youth of nineteen working at
+his trade. At noon-time on the eventful September 12th, 1814, the
+"tocsin" was sounded to call to arms every able-bodied citizen to
+defend his home and fireside, and, if possible, prevent the
+destruction of their beautiful city. At the first sound of the cannon,
+which was the signal agreed upon, John Petticord left his unfinished
+noonday meal, seized his musket, and was one of the first to join the
+ranks of his company. The day was desperately hot, and a forced march
+of two miles to the battlefield brought them, dusty, tired and
+thirsty, face to face with the enemy, who was in a fresh condition and
+eager for fight. Petticord's canteen, as all others, by regulation
+orders, was filled with whiskey, but he, being a temperance man, would
+not assuage his thirst with grog. Famishing for water, he obtained
+permission from his superior officer to go a short distance away,
+where a "squatter" was dispensing cider for the comfort of the
+soldiers and profit to himself. Petticord, emptying his canteen of
+whiskey on the ground, had it filled with hard cider, and quenched his
+thirst with a good round drink. That hard cider, together with heat
+and exhaustion, came about as near ending the earthly career of John
+Petticord as did the storm of enemy's bullets which whizzed about his
+head. On that trying day the bravery of this man was well tested. He
+stood manfully in position while his comrade on the right fell dead at
+his feet, and the one on his left was removed wounded from the
+battlefield, he himself receiving a slight wound on the finger. The
+riderless white horse of the British General Ross, who had just been
+killed, pranced by in front of the rank in which Mr. Petticord was
+stationed, and the hearts of himself and comrades beat lightly with
+hope of success, as the shouts of the Americans echoed along the line,
+announced the death of the invaders' great leader, encouraging a grand
+rally that gave them the victory of the day. Mr. Petticord, though a
+brave soldier in the time of his country's need, was a man of peace,
+and, upon the ending of hostilities with Great Britain, resigned his
+position in the eighth company of the 27th Regiment of Maryland
+militia.
+
+Baltimore always honors her noble band of brave defenders, and upon
+each anniversary of the 12th of September a public celebration is
+given, and the Old Defenders occupy the post of honor. It is but a few
+years since they marched with lively and steady step to martial music;
+later on, age required their appearing in carriages in the procession,
+and each year, at the annual dinner given by the city, their number
+has grown less and less.
+
+The present year but three were on earth to answer to the "roll call,"
+and but one able to appear at the banquet. Who can realize the sad
+feelings of the _last_ of such a noble band? Feeble Old Age, with its
+infirmities, mindful of its duty, sat perhaps for the last time around
+the banquet board, where, with friends and comrades, he before had
+enjoyed happy and jovial times, his spirits were cheered and the
+occasion made as pleasant as possible, by the presence of many of
+Baltimore's honored citizens; but not to see a single face of the many
+with whom during the seventy-five long years he had kept up a pleasant
+association, is an experience others cannot imagine.
+
+With Mr. Petticord's death, but two[1] are left of that noble band who
+so bravely protected our rights and fought for and firmly secured that
+liberty and freedom we of the present day are enjoying.
+
+[1] This article was written in 1887, since when these two have passed
+on.
+
+
+
+
+MIDDLE OF THE CENTURY.
+
+No. 11.
+
+
+Baltimore hat-manufacturing interests at the middle of the century
+suffered greatly by comparison with those of an earlier period. That
+which had been a prominent industry, engaged in by active,
+enterprising men, and extending steadily and widely, keeping pace with
+the growth of the country, and giving encouragement to the continued
+employment of skilled labor, was at the middle of this century
+gradually falling off in volume and importance, and continued to
+decline until what was once a thriving and prosperous industry of the
+city, became one almost of insignificance.
+
+In the government census of 1810, the statistics regarding hat
+manufacturing place Maryland as leading in the manufacture of fur
+hats. While Connecticut, New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania gained
+rapidly, still this business in Baltimore continued to increase and
+grow, until during the period from 1825 to 1850 it reached the height
+of its prosperity.
+
+Before the year 1850 the once prominent concern of James Cox & Sons
+had retired from the hat-manufacturing business, and the oldest and
+wealthiest firm was contemplating liquidation, as Messrs. George and
+William Rogers, of the firm of Jacob Rogers & Sons, had decided to
+discontinue the business left by their father, choosing to follow
+other occupations. The retirement of these two firms, so long and
+closely identified with the mercantile and manufacturing industries of
+Baltimore, which had successfully contributed by their faithful
+business labors to its growth and prosperity, was a serious blow to
+the interests of the city. This change left in the field but one
+important firm who had been their contemporary--Cole, Craft & Co.--of
+which the late Wm. P. Cole was the active business partner. This firm
+followed in succession the business established in 1814 by Runyon
+Harris, and was the predecessor of the present firm of Brigham,
+Hopkins & Co.
+
+Much speculation might be indulged in as to the real cause of the
+decline and loss to Baltimore of so important an industry, but the
+plain facts force but one conviction; namely, the unwillingness of
+these successful old manufacturers to adopt newer methods of hat
+making, leading to such reduction in cost, through improvements, as to
+preclude the chance of their successful competition with those of more
+progressive ideas.
+
+While Baltimore hat makers clung tenaciously to the old ways, whereby
+labor and expense were incurred unnecessarily, those at the North were
+readily adopting the various new methods by which improvements in the
+art of hat making were constantly being made; thus, with the use of
+newly invented machinery, the cost of making hats was greatly
+lessened, and the Northern manufacturer constantly gained in
+competition with those of Baltimore.
+
+The invention of the Wells _Forming Machine_ added largely to the
+misfortune of this business. An expensive machine, with a
+comparatively tremendous production, required a large market as an
+output; a heavy royalty also was attached to it, and the business of
+Baltimore at that time appeared not to be in condition to justify its
+introduction. Though the machine was invented in 1841, it was not
+until the year 1852 that the venture was made to introduce into
+Baltimore the Wells _Hat-body Forming Machine_. With the pecuniary
+assistance of Wm. P. Cole, Messrs. Bailey & Mead, in 1852, commenced
+hat forming by machinery, the "mill" being located on Holliday
+street, and afterwards removed to Front street (present number 320).
+
+From failure of support, caused by inability to revive the depressed
+condition of the hat business, the venture of Messrs. Bailey & Mead
+was not successful, and Mr. Mead retiring from the firm, the business
+was continued by Messrs. Bailey, Craft & Co., mainly in the interest
+of Mr. Cole's factory, until about 1869, when hat forming by machinery
+in Baltimore was entirely abandoned, followed with the retirement of
+Mr. Cole from the manufacturing business.
+
+Charles Towson, who established himself in the retail hat business in
+1836, on Eutaw street, near Lexington, entered into partnership in
+1853 with Mr. Mead, the firm being Towson & Mead; they commenced hat
+manufacturing at No. 10 Water street, in the factory formerly occupied
+by Jas. Cox & Sons. The business was carried on for about one year,
+when it was abandoned and the firm was dissolved. Other parties made
+fruitless attempts to restore to Baltimore the prestige it once held
+in this business. To one person, however, is due the credit of
+maintaining a long, persistent and noble fight against odds and
+difficulties, and who, after all chances to restore vitality to an
+apparently pulseless enterprise seemed lost, retired from the contest,
+unscarred and full of honors, after a creditable business career of
+forty-six years, carried on in the same factory where fifty-two years
+before he entered service as a boy. This person was Mr. Wm. P. Cole,
+who engaged in the manufacturing business in 1827, as a member of the
+firm of Clap, Cole & Co.
+
+At the time of Mr. Cole's retirement from the manufacturing business
+he was associated with his son, Wm. R. Cole, and his nephew, Wm. T.
+Brigham, as the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., who were then engaged in
+the jobbing hat business and located at No. 30 Sharp street, now 24
+Hopkins Place. In the year 1870 the firm was changed to Cole, Brigham
+& Co.; Mr. Cole retiring from active business only upon the
+dissolution of that firm in 1877, having been engaged in business on
+his own account more than half a century, leaving behind a record
+bright with faithfulness to duty, unspotted by any unmanly business
+transaction, brilliant in having met every business obligation; for,
+during the whole course of a long business life, he so systematically
+managed his affairs as to allow him to pass safely through the many
+perilous business periods he encountered.
+
+As a manufacturer, Mr. Cole acquired a wide reputation for the class
+of goods he produced, and when the demand was most exclusively for
+soft felt hats, those manufactured by him were considered the best
+made in the United States, and were sought by retailers far and near.
+
+While at the outbreak of the Civil War there may have lingered a vital
+spark in the hat industry, that event gave it, apparently, a death
+thrust. The relative position of Baltimore to both sides was
+disastrous to its business interests; being close upon the dividing
+line of hostilities, the sympathies of a large part of its citizens
+were enlisted in the cause of the South, while, singularly enough, the
+larger proportion of the wealth and business interests of the city was
+centered in persons allied by family ties to those of the North, who
+earnestly upheld the cause of the Union. Cut off from all intercourse
+with the South--its legitimate field for business--the share of
+Western trade that was enjoyed by Baltimore was lost by the strategy
+of war, for with the partial destruction of the Baltimore and Ohio
+Railroad the channel of her Western trade was diverted, and it drifted
+in other directions. While dissension and strife were being stirred in
+Baltimore and her industries lying dormant, business at the North was
+being stimulated by State and Government calls for articles necessary
+to equip an army for service. Hats were a needful part of an army's
+equipment, and Northern hat manufacturers were called upon for the
+supply; their factories soon assumed the life and activity of
+prosperity, creating a demand for additional skilled labor with good
+pay; this induced the unemployed Baltimore hatter to migrate and seek
+other places for his support. Thus did Baltimore part with an industry
+of importance closely identified with its prosperous early days,
+which, after passing through many vicissitudes, dwindled gradually
+until it became apparently extinct.
+
+
+
+
+FASHIONS.
+
+No. 12.
+
+
+The high crown hat, vulgarly termed "stove-pipe," may be taken as the
+general indicator of fashions existing during the period of the
+present century. Following the "cocked" hat (the counterpart of the
+French chapeau), which style prevailed at the time of the American
+Revolution, was the "steeple top," which had a conical crown. This
+shape for a high hat was soon abandoned and the bell crown
+substituted, and so acceptable has this particular style proved that,
+since the opening of this century, it has held supremacy as the
+fashionable head-covering for man, despite frequent attempts to
+destroy its popularity by the introduction of other shapes, or the
+advocating of a change as practical.
+
+High hats were first napped with beaver fur, which material, being
+expensive, necessarily made costly hats. Otter fur was afterwards
+used, then muskrat, which greatly lessened their cost.
+
+"Scratch" or "brush" hats (terms used for hats made with a felt body
+and afterwards combed or scratched until a nap was raised) were
+manufactured and worn prior to the middle of the century. These were
+all stiffened high hats, and constituted the dressy article of
+headwear until the introduction of the silk hat, which for the last
+fifty years has maintained its ascendency as the leading article of
+fashion in gentlemen's hats.
+
+About the year 1830 the beaver hat assumed huge proportions of crown,
+having a very heavy "bell," measuring full seven inches in height and
+nine inches across the tip; to this crown was added an insignificant
+brim of only one and a half inches in width. These hats were covered
+with a beaver nap of such a length that it waved with the wind, and
+its appearance upon the head of the wearer was as _outre_ and unique
+as the "shako" on the head of a modern drum-major.
+
+To more forcibly illustrate the proportions of this style of hat, we
+may say that its actual capacity was nearly a peck.
+
+Besides the high hats of either beaver, brush or silk, caps made of
+cloth or fur were much used prior to the introduction of the soft
+felt hat, and continued to be so until an incident occurred which
+created a sudden revolution in the tastes of the American people
+regarding their head-dress.
+
+The visit of Louis Kossuth, the eminent Hungarian patriot, to this
+country in the year 1851, had the effect of producing a wonderful
+change in the fashion of hats. The one worn by Kossuth was a high
+unstiffened black felt trimmed with a wide band, and was ornamented
+with an ostrich feather. The immense popularity of this famous
+foreigner with all Americans brought about the fashion of a similar
+hat. Never before or since in this country did the introduction of a
+new fashion in hats spread with such rapidity as did the "Kossuth."
+All hat factories in the country were taxed to their utmost capacity
+to supply the demand, until every American citizen, old and young, was
+to be seen wearing a soft hat ornamented with an ostrich plume. It was
+the "Kossuth" that marked the era of the introduction of the soft or
+slouch hat, and stimulated the sale of that undress article of
+headwear, which continued in vogue throughout the United States for a
+number of years. The soft hat appeared in many forms and styles, some
+of which became universally popular. The "wide-awake," brought out
+during the election campaign of Abraham Lincoln, in the year 1860,
+was a noted and successful style. It was a low crown, white felt, with
+wide black band and binding.
+
+Robert Bonner's original and successful advertising of his newspaper,
+the New York _Ledger_, was a sensation of the day, and the "Ledger"
+was the name given to a soft hat that commanded a great sale. The
+peculiarity of the "Ledger" was a narrow leather band and leather
+binding.
+
+The "resorte" brim was an American invention, introduced about the
+year 1863; it was simply a wire held to the edge of the brim of a soft
+hat with a binding, and so extended as to maintain a flatness, and
+permit its conforming to the head without destroying its outlines.
+This invention was patented, and its extensive use brought large
+profits to the owners of the patent.
+
+The event of the Civil War gave an increased stimulus to the use of
+the soft hat. With the South in a state of excitement, alarmed with
+portentous fears of a sectional war, such matters as pertained to
+elegance of dress were banished from the minds of its people, and the
+North, with a large army recruiting from its citizen class, brought
+the universal practice of economy among the American people, limiting
+their indulgence in expenditures for articles of dress considered as
+luxuries, and the silk hat falling under that ban, dropped almost into
+absolute disuse. With the return, however, of prosperity, an apparent
+desire for a more dressy article was manifest, and the stiff felt hat
+generally denominated the Derby was introduced.
+
+The derby was made in various proportions of crown and brim, as the
+caprice of fashion dictated, and was, as its name might imply, an
+adopted English style; it gradually grew in favor with Americans,
+until it became the universal fashion of the day, maintaining that
+position for several years. From an increased popularity it has been
+brought into such common use as to again create a growing desire for
+an article claiming something bearing a more exclusive mark of
+gentility or dignity, which the silk hat meets, and the silk hat is
+again so increasing in use as to establish the certainty of its
+maintaining with the American people its wonted place of priority as
+the article of genteel head-dress, marking the standard of fashion and
+style.
+
+Baltimore, always noted for its readiness in accepting foreign
+fashions, must have been among the first of American cities to adopt
+the silk hat, which was claimed to be of French invention, but if
+there be any foundation for the following narrative, the first silk
+hat was not made in Paris, but in China. It is stated that a French
+sea-captain, while sailing on the coast of China, desiring to have his
+shabby napped beaver hat, which had been made in Paris, replaced by a
+new one, took it ashore, probably to Calcutta or Canton, to see if he
+could procure one like it. As Parisian styles were not in vogue in
+China, he found nothing of closer resemblance than the lacquered
+papier-mache or bamboo straw. The keen shrewdness of the Chinaman,
+however, quickly suggested a near imitation in silk-plush. This is
+said to have happened in 1830, and the captain returning to Paris,
+showed the Chinaman's product to his own hatter, who, upon perceiving
+its beauty, at once attempted its introduction as a fashion, which has
+long ruled nearly the whole world.
+
+The first silk hat produced in Baltimore is said to have been made by
+one Victor Sarata in 1838, though some contend that Jacob Rogers was
+the first to make such goods; but as the silk hat was looked upon as
+an innovation, and its introduction opposed by hat makers of that
+time, as being detrimental to their interests, it is more than
+probable that Mr. Rogers did not give encouragement to the manufacture
+of an article likely to supplant the use of his own make of "Beavers,"
+"Russias" and "Bolivars," and we may thus safely give credit to Victor
+Sarata for first producing in Baltimore this new article of fashion,
+originating in Paris, the city from whence he came.
+
+Until the year 1850, Paris fashions were those generally adopted in
+the leading American cities, after which English fashions in hats
+entirely superseded the former, becoming so popular that not only
+large importations of English hats were made, but American
+manufacturers invariably copied English styles, and indulged in the
+degrading habit of pirating English trade-marks, for the purpose of
+increasing their sales. Happily, the necessity for such pernicious
+practices is at an end, for during the past ten years the great
+strides made by American manufacturers in the improvements of hat
+making place them in the foremost rank of that industry; in fact, with
+those elements of manufacture necessary to perfection, such as
+fineness of texture, lightness in weight, and elegance in style,
+American hatters to-day hold supremacy in the whole world, and,
+favored by relief from the tariff tax upon raw materials from which
+hats are made, all of which is of foreign growth, America will be
+found sending to the countries which taught her the art, examples of
+this industry far superior to those her teachers ever furnished her.
+
+[Illustration: THE "DERBY" OF 1889.]
+
+
+
+
+NEW DEVELOPMENTS.
+
+No. 13.
+
+
+A strange fact is that the Civil War, so disastrous in its effect upon
+the industries of Baltimore, was followed at its close by the rise of
+a new enterprise, of manufacturing straw hats, which so increased and
+extended that in number of establishments and volume of production it
+soon outrivalled those of fur hats in their most prosperous time, thus
+securing to this city a kindred business, greater in extent and
+importance than the one which had, by force of circumstances, been
+wrested from her. The good reputation which the products of the new
+industry has acquired in every part of the country has contributed not
+only to the prosperity of the city, but has assisted by adding credit
+for the high standard of its manufactured goods.
+
+In the year 1866 Mr. G. O. Wilson and Mr. Albert Sumner left their
+homes in Foxboro, Mass., in search of a promising field for
+establishing the business of renovating straw hats. Without any
+definite place in view, one city after another was visited, Baltimore
+being finally their chosen locality. Messrs. Wilson & Sumner
+associated with them Mr. W. C. Perry, who also came from Foxboro, and
+the firm was made Sumner & Perry, establishing themselves in the rear
+of No. 71, now 10 West Lexington street.
+
+Mr. Sumner withdrawing from the firm the same year, the two remaining
+partners continued the business at the same place as the firm of
+Wilson & Perry. At that time the retail price of straw hats was such
+as to allow a profitable business to be done in renovating and
+altering styles, and in that branch these persons met with success.
+
+Previous to this, however, others had been engaged in the business of
+bleaching and pressing straw hats. Among the first who entered into
+the business, as far as can be learned, was the firm of Rosenswig,
+Davidson & Ash, about the year 1848; they were cap manufacturers, and
+added the pressing of Leghorn hats as an auxiliary business. Mr.
+Samuel White, who learned his trade of the previously mentioned firm,
+afterwards carried on hat bleaching and pressing in connection with
+cap making, at No. 78 South Charles street (present No. 132). From
+1850 to 1865 extensive importations of German straw hats came into
+the port of Baltimore, and Mr. White did a large business in finishing
+these goods. In 1857 Mr. White commenced the jobbing hat business,
+forming in 1861 the firm of White, Rosenburg & Co., and is now in
+business at No. 9 South Howard street, of the firm of S. White & Son.
+
+Richard Hill, at present in the retail hat business at No. 5 South
+Liberty street, was formerly engaged in hat bleaching and pressing at
+the same locality.
+
+Messrs. Wilson & Perry continued to prosper in their enterprise, and,
+increasing their facilities, gradually developed it into straw goods
+manufacturing, confining their business for several years almost
+exclusively with two prominent Baltimore jobbing houses, who supplied
+sufficient patronage for their constantly increasing production; one
+of their patrons being Cole, Brigham & Co., the other Armstrong, Cator
+& Co., one of the largest millinery firms in the country.
+
+In 1877 Messrs. Wilson & Perry purchased the premises No. 101 West
+Lexington street, now 104, where they secured more commodious
+quarters, and, with an admirably equipped factory, continued to do a
+large and prosperous business. Mr. Perry died in 1880. In July, 1887,
+the firm title of Wilson & Perry was changed, Mr. Wilson associating
+with M. Frank, J. D. Horner and A. Levering, formed the firm of Wilson,
+Frank & Horner, and occupied the warehouse No. 204 West Baltimore
+street, in connection with the factory on Lexington street.
+
+In January, 1875, Isaac H. Francis and James E. Sumner, who had been
+in the employ of Wilson & Perry, started the straw hat manufacturing
+business at the N. W. corner of Lexington and Liberty streets, and in
+the following year Wm. T. Brigham (then of the firm of Cole, Brigham &
+Co.) became associated with them, the firm being made Francis, Sumner
+& Co. In 1877 the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co. was dissolved, Mr.
+Brigham becoming connected with R. D. Hopkins, as the firm of Brigham &
+Hopkins, occupying the premises No. 128 West Fayette street (present
+No. 211). In 1880 Mr. Hopkins was admitted as a partner in the firm of
+Francis, Sumner & Co., and Messrs. Francis and Sumner became members
+of the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, the interests of the two firms
+having always, in fact, been identical since they were first
+established. The two firms were continued until July, 1887, when, by
+the withdrawal of Mr. Sumner, they were dissolved, and became
+consolidated as the firm of Brigham, Hopkins & Co., now occupying the
+large and spacious factory at the corner of German and Paca streets,
+erected in 1884.
+
+In the year 1880 Messrs. Francis, Sumner & Co. placed their interest
+in their Lexington and Liberty street factory with Wm. Fales and Jas.
+M. Hopkins, transferring their own entire business to the enlarged
+premises at 128 W. Fayette street. Fales & Hopkins continued at the
+corner of Lexington and Liberty streets until the fall of 1883, when
+Mr. Hopkins, forced by declining health to give up business, sold his
+interest to Mr. Louis Oudesluys, the firm becoming Fales & Oudesluys.
+Mr. James M. Hopkins died of consumption at Colorado Springs,
+February, 1884.
+
+In 1885 S. C. Townsend and John W. Grace became associated with Messrs.
+Fales & Oudesluys, and a new firm formed, as Fales, Oudesluys & Co.,
+continuing for two years, when it was dissolved, Messrs. Townsend and
+Grace remaining as the firm of Townsend, Grace & Co., at 128 W.
+Fayette street, while Messrs. Fales and Oudesluys formed a new firm,
+as Fales, Oudesluys & Co., locating at 115 S. Eutaw street. Mr. Fales
+remained in the latter firm but a few months, when it was again
+changed to that of Oudesluys Bros., comprised of Louis, Adrian and
+Eugene Oudesluys, now doing business at 115 S. Eutaw street.
+
+In 1878 Mr. M. S. Levy, who was then a cap maker, commenced the
+finishing of straw hats, having the hats sewed by others, while he did
+the finishing and trimming, his place of business being then at the
+N. E. corner of Sharp and German streets.
+
+With increasing trade, Mr. Levy removed in 1881 to more spacious
+quarters at Nos. 318 and 320 W. Baltimore street (present numbers 216
+and 218), where he commenced the general manufacture of straw hats. In
+1883 he took his two sons into partnership, the firm being made M. S.
+Levy & Sons; their premises being destroyed by fire in October, 1886,
+they removed to 117 S. Sharp street. In September, 1888, being again
+the victims of fire, they occupied temporarily the premises N. E. cor.
+Paca and German streets, remaining there until taking possession of
+their present extensive factory located at the N. W. cor. of Paca and
+Lombard streets.
+
+In 1880 Tomz, Richardson & Co. commenced in a small way to manufacture
+straw hats at No. 341 W. Baltimore street (now 317), but, from lack of
+business experience, soon abandoned the undertaking.
+
+Messrs. Bateman & Richardson in 1882 embarked in the business,
+occupying a portion of the premises No. 5 S. Liberty street. In 1883
+Mr. Scutch was admitted as a partner, the firm becoming Bateman,
+Richardson & Co., and, removing to No. 55 St. Paul street (now 313),
+continued until 1885; not meeting with anticipated success, they gave
+up the business.
+
+Messrs. Francis O. Cole & Co. in 1882 commenced the manufacture of
+straw goods, erecting for the purpose a building at Nos. 7 and 9
+Saratoga street (now 424 E. Saratoga), continuing business until 1885,
+when the firm was dissolved.
+
+Mr R. Q. Taylor has long been engaged in the manufacture of Mackinaw
+straw hats as a specialty. His acquaintance with and interest in this
+product dates as far back as 1850, when he first used the Mackinaw for
+his retail trade, since which, every season the "Mackinaw" has been
+the prominent straw hat sent from his establishment, and for a period
+of fifteen years was the _only_ article of straw hat retailed by him.
+The successful control of a special style as an article of fashion for
+thirty-five consecutive years is a remarkable record, an
+accomplishment that plainly shows ability as a leader of fashion, for
+which Mr. Taylor's natural capacity so well fits him.
+
+Mr. Taylor confined the use of the "Mackinaw" hat strictly to his
+retail demands until after the year 1868, since when he has
+manufactured the article for the trade, distributing his products over
+the entire country, and establishing for "Taylor's Mackinaws" a
+national fame.
+
+In addition to the manufacture of men's and boys' straw hats, which
+class has heretofore comprised the larger proportion of such goods
+made in Baltimore, another branch, that of ladies' straw goods, has
+been developed, and is already assuming interesting proportions,
+promising to become a valuable addition to this industry.
+
+Messrs. Wolford & Shilburg in 1883 commenced the manufacture of
+ladies' straw goods at No. 6 E. Pratt street, remaining at that place
+for one year, removing in 1883 to No. 205 Camden street, where they
+are now located.
+
+In 1887, Messrs. L. W. Sumner, G. K. Thompson and D. Whitney, as the
+firm of Sumner, Thompson & Whitney, commenced the manufacture of
+ladies' and misses' straw goods, locating their factory at 317 N.
+Howard street.
+
+At the present time there are in Baltimore, apparently in prosperous
+condition, eight straw hat establishments, giving employment to eleven
+hundred hands, male and female, and producing annually, manufactured
+goods to the value of upwards of a million dollars, in the
+distribution of which Baltimore is brought into close business contact
+with every State and Territory of the Union, and the city's importance
+as a manufacturing centre is enhanced by the character of articles
+sent forth by those engaged in this class of business.
+
+
+
+
+GROWTH OF BUSINESS.
+
+No. 14.
+
+
+For many years the Mackinaw took precedence of all straw hats as the
+most desirable summer article for gentlemen's headwear, far
+out-rivalling in its success as a fashion any other straw product ever
+introduced to the American people. Having attained this prominent
+position mainly through its successful management by Baltimore
+manufacturers, it forms an important factor in the prosperity of the
+straw hat industry of Baltimore. In fact it is the actual foundation
+of the present large and increasing straw goods business of the city
+to-day.
+
+While the Mackinaw hat had previously found favor with a few prominent
+retailers, it was not until the year 1868 that Mr. W. T. Brigham, then
+of the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., observing the merits of the article,
+concluded to undertake its introduction to the trade, to whom it was
+generally quite unknown. Among those who had used profitably the
+Mackinaw for their retail trade were R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
+Charles Oakford, W. F. Warburton and Louis Blaylock, of Philadelphia.
+Though it was an article of domestic production, the beauty and
+commendable qualities of the Mackinaw were indeed a surprising
+revelation to the trade at large. Each year added to the popularity of
+the Mackinaw, until it became the acceptable American straw hat,
+without which no first-class retailer could consider his stock
+complete. While the great demand existed, Baltimore continued to
+supply the larger proportion of all the Mackinaw hats sold, and taking
+advantage of the reputation thus gained for such goods, her
+manufacturers produced other kinds of straw hats, and by the exercise
+of proper care and attention acquired such skill as to secure for the
+straw goods products of Baltimore the worthy reputation of being the
+best made in the United States, consequently and beyond contradiction
+the best in the world.
+
+In the earliest days of straw hat making in Baltimore, at the time
+when the Mackinaw was being introduced, the sewing of straw hats by
+machine was a new invention, and practically a close monopoly
+controlled by a strong combination of wealthy straw goods
+manufacturers of the North, who, jointly as a stock company, prevented
+the sale of the straw sewing machines outside their own circle.
+Fortunately for the success of the new undertaking in Baltimore, the
+good qualities of the Mackinaw hat were more satisfactorily retained
+by hand sewing, rendering machines in their manufacture a useless
+requirement.
+
+Thus an advantage was gained in supplying a hand-sewed hat, embodying
+such points of perfection in style and finish as to quite surprise
+those not familiar with the manufacture of such goods. The "Mackinaw"
+of Baltimore make continued to grow in popular favor until it had
+secured a greater distribution than was ever before attained by any
+other article of straw hat, making a remarkable record for tenacity,
+by holding for upwards of fifteen successive years, popularity as the
+leading article of summer headwear.
+
+Baltimore continued to enlarge and increase her straw hat factories
+and improve their products, so that now in this industry she stands in
+the proud position of being the leading city in the United States in
+the production of the best class of straw hats.
+
+This, in brief, is a history of another branch of the hat business,
+which attained large proportions, supplementing the one which, having
+gained a degree of importance in the manufacturing history of the
+city, was by force of circumstances reduced to comparative
+insignificance.
+
+The growth of the straw hat business of Baltimore may be looked upon
+as somewhat phenomenal. The first introduction of the Mackinaw hat by
+William R. Cole & Co., in 1867, may be taken as the beginning of
+straw goods manufacturing, and with but a single manufacturing firm
+existing in 1875, its development and increase dates from that time.
+It is doubtful if in 1875 the total value of manufactured straw goods
+produced in Baltimore reached the sum of $75,000, while in the face of
+a steady and constant decline in values--the result of labor-saving
+machines, together with reduced cost of raw material--an increase in
+production of twenty-fold is an accomplishment of less than fifteen
+years. This success cannot be attributed to any local advantages, but
+is due entirely to the energy, enterprise and business qualifications
+of those engaged in the business, qualifications which have
+accomplished the result of giving valuable assistance in the city's
+advancement as an important manufacturing centre. It has also, by the
+recognized merits of its products, lent a worthy influence throughout
+the whole United States in sustaining the excellent reputation long
+enjoyed by Baltimore for the good quality and reliability of its
+manufactured goods.
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT.
+
+No. 15.
+
+
+A result of the remarkable popularity of the Mackinaw straw hat was,
+that Baltimore came rapidly forward as a straw goods manufacturing
+place, becoming important as a center in that particular branch of
+business; therefore a history of the article which contributed so
+largely to the development of this industry is likely to prove both
+interesting and instructive.
+
+"Mackinaw," as a trade term or name, does not, as might be supposed,
+indicate the region from whence the articles comes, but undoubtedly
+received its christening from some one of the few retailers who early
+used these goods, in order to create a distinction from a similar,
+but much inferior article, then termed the "Canada" hat. While both
+the "Mackinaw" and the "Canada" are made of wheat straw, the
+difference between the two, as the product of one country and of
+nearly the same latitude, is a great surprise. The wheat of the
+eastern part of Canada produces a straw dark in color, harsh in
+texture, and of little use for making a hat, while that grown in the
+western part of the same country is clear and white in color,
+possessing a brilliant enamel which imparts the beauty that rendered
+the Mackinaw so famous as an article of fashion.
+
+The Mackinaw must be considered a local rather than a national
+production, coming as it does from a region comprised within a small
+radius around the city of Detroit, part of which is Canadian territory
+and part within the borders of the United States; for while
+considerable straw from which the plait is made is raised and plaited
+within the limits of the State of Michigan, by far the largest
+proportion, as also the best quality, is the product of the Canadian
+territory. Nature seems to have provided a small community with
+unusual advantages, for within a limited territory has been produced
+all the large quantity of straw plait required to supply the popular
+demand that for many years existed for Mackinaw hats, and all efforts
+elsewhere to produce material combining the peculiarities of this
+straw, from which these hats were made, invariably failed.
+
+The claim of the Mackinaw to antiquity and long use is perhaps as
+strong as that of other plaits with which the trade has become
+familiar, for no doubt the natives of the country made use of these
+hats as a head-covering long before they became an article of trade.
+
+The Mackinaw was for many years after its first introduction sold
+under the designation of the "Canada" hat, the name given to a similar
+but comparatively degraded article produced in Lower, or Eastern
+Canada; and the title Mackinaw was first applied by the late Mr.
+Charles Oakford, of Philadelphia, or by Mr. R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
+each of whom were among the first to make it a fashionable hat.
+
+The makers of these goods are wholly the poor, ignorant half-breeds,
+who spring from the Canadian French and the Indian. Finding that hats,
+as well as the skins of the animals they trapped, could be traded for,
+the family talent was brought into use to produce something that might
+contribute to their meagre subsistence. So during the winter season,
+while the men hunted the muskrat, the Indian women and children
+plaited straw and made hats, which, on the opening of spring, were
+carried with the skins obtained by the hunters, to the towns, where
+they were exchanged for food, drink, clothing and ammunition.
+
+To the advantages of soil and climate is attributed that purity of
+color, brilliancy of enamel, toughness of fibre and elasticity of
+texture which are recommendations of the Mackinaw. Added to these
+natural qualities was the advantage of a peculiar treatment given to
+the straw by the natives, who employed a whitening or bleaching
+process without the use of chemicals, giving increased beauty to the
+article.
+
+During the prosperity of Mackinaw straw plaiting, a prominent
+character among the half-breeds was one Madame Lousseux, a sturdy,
+aged matron, with twelve hearty daughters, who, inheriting their
+mother's prolific nature, were in turn each the proprietress of a
+family of a dozen boys and girls. They all appeared to inherit the old
+lady's natural ability and wonderful expertness, and surpassed all
+competitors in the plaiting of the straw. The choicest products in
+braid and hats came from the Lousseux family.
+
+In 1834, and for many years after, these goods were sold and used only
+as ordinary harvest hats. It now seems surprising that an article
+possessing such attractive merits should have occupied a secondary
+position and been so long in establishing the reputation it finally
+secured. The first person, as far as discovered, who used this article
+for retail purposes as a genteel and fashionable hat, was Henry
+Griswold in the year 1845, who did business in the then little and
+obscure town of Racine, Wisconsin. The Raciners must have been people
+of an appreciative and refined taste, as it appears that Mr. Griswold
+sold the hat for several seasons to his own advantage.
+
+Prior to 1846 these goods were sold in New York by Leland, Mellen &
+Co., at that time the largest wholesale hat firm in the country. Mr.
+Mellen retired from business in 1851. In reply to a personal inquiry
+of the writer in the year 1874, Mr. Mellen wrote from Framingham,
+Mass., as follows:
+
+"The Canada straw hat from the region of Detroit was sold by our firm
+as early as 1845. After being blocked and trimmed, they were sold as
+an ordinary staple hat. We sold a few to John H. Genin, W. H. Beebe &
+Co., and Charles Knox, then the leading retail hatters of Broadway. I
+think, however, they were sold by them only as a fishing or harvest
+hat. We continued to receive these goods from Detroit for several
+seasons, until an article from Lower Canada, of inferior quality and
+less price, made its appearance, and stopped the sale, as far as we
+were concerned."
+
+The exact date of the appearance of the Mackinaw in Philadelphia
+cannot be accurately determined, but it must have been as early as
+1847. Messrs. Beebe, Coster & Co., a prominent retail firm in
+Philadelphia, in 1849, sold the tapering crown, wide brim "Canada
+straw hat." From about 1855 to 1860 the Mackinaw became so very
+popular in the Quaker City that it was recognized as a leading
+article. The prominent retailers then using it were Charles Oakford,
+W. F. Warburton, Louis Blaylock, and Sullender & Pascall; each of these
+firms themselves finished the straw hats, taking them as they were
+sewed by the natives, which was with a taper crown and wide brim,
+making little pretence to any variety in style or proportion. Messrs.
+Sullender & Pascall made an advanced step and undertook one season to
+sell the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats, preparing
+them in various shapes and for the first time adapting them to the
+requirements and tastes of a "nobby" trade.
+
+In 1847 William Ketchem of Buffalo, E. B. Wickes of Syracuse, and John
+Heywood & Sons of Rochester sold these hats. In 1848 L. Benedict &
+Co., prominent retailers of Cleveland, handled the goods. This firm
+was followed next season by Messrs. R. & N. Dockstadter, then a very
+prominent concern in the same place. In 1849 they were sold in
+Sandusky by C. C. Keech.
+
+The Mackinaw during these periods must have been introduced and sold
+in other places, but it had not secured its recognition as an article
+worthy of being placed on a level with foreign productions, which
+were then considered the desirable and suitable straw hat for genteel
+wear. It was probably not until after the year 1855 that the article
+received its title of "Mackinaw," and not until then did it secure its
+well merited, dignified position.
+
+By far the largest retailer of the Mackinaw hat in this country, and
+the one to whom belongs the greatest credit in popularizing it, is Mr.
+R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore. He introduced the hat to his customers as
+far back as 1850, and for _thirty_ consecutive seasons sold it without
+any apparent diminution of popularity. For many years Mr. Taylor sold
+the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats. At one time so
+identified did the Mackinaw become with the people of this city, that
+it was said a Baltimorean might be recognized anywhere by the straw
+hat he wore. Mr. Taylor asserts that in the years 1872 and 1873 he
+retailed from his own counter, in the two seasons, upwards of 9000
+hats. The reputation of the Mackinaw has been admirably sustained by
+Mr. Taylor, whose firm is still engaged in their manufacture, with a
+constant demand for them. Probably no other straw hat ever introduced
+to the American public can show such a continued and extended sale. In
+1868 Messrs. Wm. R. Cole & Co., predecessors of the present firm of
+Brigham, Hopkins & Co., commenced to produce these goods for the
+general trade, and it is to their efforts that much of the widespread
+popularity of the Mackinaw is due. They first tried these hats with
+their own local trade, and finding them eminently successful, ventured
+to offer them in New York, meeting with much encouragement. From a
+small commencement their trade in these goods continued to increase
+until a large and well established business was secured, continuing to
+grow in volume and extent, and becoming the precursor of an industry
+that places Baltimore in a leading position as a manufacturing place
+for straw goods.
+
+
+
+
+MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.
+
+No. 16.
+
+
+In the rank of those whose successful undertakings have contributed
+towards the restoration to Baltimore of a lost industry, and placing
+it upon such a foundation as to have it recognized as one of
+importance, no firm stands more prominent or has done more towards its
+accomplishment than that of Brigham, Hopkins & Co. The straw hat
+business inaugurated by this firm's immediate predecessors, and
+encouraged by their own efforts, has grown in volume and strength
+until Baltimore is now designated in trade parlance "the straw hat
+city," rightfully claiming the honor of surpassing in this class of
+her manufactured products the efforts of all rivals of this or of any
+other country.
+
+Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co., while possessing a large business,
+have the pleasure of conducting it in a spacious building, whose
+architectural design is one of the handsomest of its kind in the
+country, and whose conveniences for the successful prosecution of
+their business cannot be excelled. A business coming from one of its
+pioneers through a direct succession of firms gives to Brigham,
+Hopkins & Co. a natural pride in such an inheritance, and brings also
+a pleasure in being able to trace its progress from its origin,
+showing how this branch of manufacture was at an early day brought to
+an admirable condition of prosperity, afterwards to pass through a
+period of almost total decay, then again to attain a development that
+entitles it to rank with any of the successful and prominent
+industries of the city.
+
+It is a pleasant reflection as well as a happy coincidence that the
+restoration of a forsaken industry, once a vital element in the city's
+life and activity, is greatly due to the labors of the firm who, in
+this branch, connect the past with the present, the old with the new.
+
+The enterprising business traits manifested by Runyon Harris, in
+erecting, in the year 1814, a large hat factory in this city, seemed
+to have prompted his various successors to a spirit of emulation,
+enabling them to preserve the legacy bequeathed them, and to
+perpetuate that reputation for meritorious products that was so early
+earned in the factory of Mr. Harris.
+
+Following the erection of the factory by Mr. Harris came the firm of
+Aaron Clap & Co., who purchased the property and commenced in 1817 the
+manufacture of hats, and a remarkable fact--one encouraging an innate
+pride in their successors--is that during three-quarters of a century
+all of the firms inheriting a title of descent from that of Aaron Clap
+& Co. have passed in safety through every financial convulsion of the
+country, and have promptly met every pecuniary obligation incurred.
+
+Although during the former period of prosperity in the hat business of
+Baltimore, felt hats only were manufactured, which business was
+completely reduced by the unfortunate conditions existing at the time
+of the Civil War; its revival came through the establishing of a
+different branch, that of the manufacture of straw hats; and while
+Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. have lately entered extensively into
+the manufacture of silk and felt hats also, it is the purpose of this
+article to dwell more particularly upon facts relating to the straw
+hat branch that has contributed so largely in bringing Baltimore once
+again forward as a leading hat manufacturing city.
+
+Prior to 1860 Messrs. Wm. P. Cole & Son, then manufacturers and
+jobbers, became especially interested in the straw goods branch of
+their business. Being at that time manufacturers of the best class of
+felt hats, the straw goods sold by them were all made in the factories
+of the North. Machines for sewing the straw braid were not then in
+use, and much of the straw products of foreign countries came ready
+sewed in shapes that were very irregular in proportions and sizes. The
+looseness of the stitches in sewing rendered the use of glue a
+necessity in the manufacture of the hats, producing an article of
+headwear that gave but little comfort. Suggestions for improvements
+were given the manufacturers, who adopted them with advantage to
+themselves. The first suggestion made by the Baltimore firm was an
+improvement in the appearance of the hat by trimming it with wider
+bands. At that time the use of bands about 14 lines wide was
+prevalent, and the adoption of 23-line bands was looked upon as a very
+radical departure. The substitution of leather sweats for those of oil
+muslin was also first undertaken by the Baltimore firm; following
+which, the most important improvement ever gained in the production of
+straw goods was conceived and executed in this city, which was the
+abandonment of the heavy glue-sizing and the manufacture of the
+comfortable "flexible finish" straw hat, an accomplishment secured by
+careful attention to the proper sewing of the goods aided by hand
+finish.
+
+For several years Wm. P. Cole & Son and their successors had straw
+hats of their own designing made and finished at the North, continuing
+to suggest improvements which were made at their command, and the
+privilege of retaining which for their own trade was for the time
+extended to them by the manufacturers, from which they gained such
+advantages as would arise from having goods superior to and differing
+from the general class sold by others.
+
+It was in the year 1875, upon the dissolution of the firm of Cole,
+Brigham & Co., that Mr. W. T. Brigham and Mr. R. D. Hopkins, uniting as
+the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, became straw hat manufacturers. The
+Mackinaw straw hat had at this time gained well in popularity; the
+natural firmness and flexibility of the Mackinaw were merits
+particularly acceptable to the trade, and the new firm made a careful
+study of embodying as far as possible in the manufacture of all their
+straw hats, those essential points possessed by the Mackinaw. So
+successful were their efforts that, by the exercise of thorough
+watchfulness, they continued to improve, until they secured for their
+products a celebrity that gave the firm the foremost position in the
+trade.
+
+Following the onward movement of the straw hat business in Baltimore
+since its first introduction (less than twenty years ago), it is
+interesting to watch its constant and steady growth, and to observe
+the advance that has been accomplished. Even before Messrs. Brigham &
+Hopkins entered upon the business, a great improvement in the straw
+goods had already been made through the favorable impetus imparted by
+their predecessors. Straw hats which from a lack of style and comfort
+had heretofore played a secondary part in the conditions of man's
+costume, were so much improved in style and finish as to be accepted
+as a desirable article of dress, thus an increased demand was created
+for them.
+
+To still further improve the straw hat, and as near as possible secure
+perfection, was the aim of the Baltimore manufacturers.
+
+Entering the field with the commendable object of producing a class of
+goods that should be recognized as the best, Messrs. Brigham &
+Hopkins, abandoning traditional ways, commenced their work upon a
+thoroughly independent basis; copying after none, but relying upon
+their own ingenuity; striving to improve upon every last effort,
+observing and studying the wants and needs of their customers, they
+continued to put forth a class of goods bearing an undoubted stamp of
+originality, which, being supplemented by excellent workmanship and
+the use of good materials, resulted in securing a large patronage, and
+brought to them a constantly increasing trade. In this way did the
+firm secure a recognized position at the head of the straw hat
+industry of the country, and gained for their products a reputation
+for excellence in style and finish that is widespread over the whole
+country. American manufacturers had a long and tedious struggle in
+their efforts to overcome the prejudices of the people existing in
+favor of foreign productions, but steady endeavors to win the approval
+of Americans for American made hats have scored a genuine success, and
+the American gentleman of to-day may take a just pride in wearing a
+straw hat of Baltimore make--one not to be excelled.
+
+
+
+
+A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT.
+
+No. 17.
+
+
+That part of the history of Baltimore which relates to the present
+position of its hat industry is especially interesting, as it records
+a business that has acquired large proportions, placing it prominently
+among the many important manufactures of this city.
+
+A business identified with the very earliest days of the city's
+existence, growing and assuming in its movement a condition of vigor
+and prosperity that is encouraging for the future, has given to
+Baltimore a name and fame that places her in an enviable position at
+the very head of the hat-manufacturing cities of this country.
+
+As an example, showing the growth and progress of the hat business,
+and giving evidence of its extent in Baltimore at the present time,
+no better illustration could be offered than a description of the
+complete establishment erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. for
+the requirements of their extensive business.
+
+[Illustration: PRESENT FACTORY OF BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO.]
+
+While at the present time the hat business of Baltimore is largely
+confined to the special manufacture of straw goods, a revived movement
+made by one firm in the manufacture of silk and felt hats assures a
+development of that branch of the business also into such proportions
+that ere long it may restore to Baltimore the prestige and rank it
+once held as the manufacturing centre of high grades of that class of
+goods.
+
+Going back to the early period of 1814, Runyon Harris, the predecessor
+of this firm, in advance of his time displayed evidence of progressive
+ideas by erecting what was then considered a large and spacious
+factory. His structure was one hundred and twenty-five feet in length,
+about twenty-five in width, and two and a half stories high; the area
+of space upon the two floors, which was alone suited for work-people,
+was 6200 square feet.
+
+The line of successors to Runyon Harris have all been found
+proverbially enterprising and energetic, always noted as active and
+successful manufacturers of their day. Inheriting somewhat the spirit
+of activity so marked in their worthy predecessors, Messrs. Brigham,
+Hopkins & Co. are found in the advance, and make no idle boast of an
+establishment whose breadth of space, architectural beauty, and
+convenience of arrangement find few rivals in the whole catalogue of
+similar business places in this country. Their warehouse, prominently
+situated, rising six stories above ground, being one hundred and fifty
+feet deep by forty in width, gives a surface area of 42,000 square
+feet of work room, all of which is provided with unusual advantages
+for daylight and ventilation. Added to this is the detached
+"make-shop" of the firm, located at Relay Station, on the line of the
+Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, nine miles from the city.[2] It is a high
+studded building, of one story, built in this manner to allow the
+condensing and evaporation of steam, which escapes from the
+"batteries" of boiling water, around which the men are constantly at
+work. This building is one hundred and thirty by sixty feet, giving in
+addition to the city warehouse 7800 square feet, or a total in round
+numbers of 50,000 square feet, upwards of an acre of working space,
+which is a good showing of growth and expansion when contrasted with
+one of the best establishments of the year 1814.
+
+[2] This department has lately been removed to the city, and is
+located corner Paca and King streets.
+
+The handsome structure at the corner of German and Paca streets was
+erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co., designed and arranged to
+suit the demands of their own manufacturing business. Ground was
+broken in the month of April, 1884, and the building completed and
+occupied in January, 1885. It has a frontage of forty-one feet six
+inches on German street, and extends back on Paca street one hundred
+and fifty feet to Cider Alley.
+
+Located upon one of the broadest thoroughfares, at a point which is
+the water-shed of this part of the city, being at the level of one
+hundred feet above tide-water, it rises prominently among other fine
+warehouses surrounding it, showing its array of architectural beauty
+to advantage, for it is one of the most imposing of the mercantile
+structures of the city. The building is constructed of Baltimore
+pressed brick and the famous Potomac red sandstone, which together so
+harmonize in color as to render a very pleasing effect; the
+ornamentations surrounding the windows are in terra-cotta and moulded
+brick. The style of the building is Romanesque, or round arched. Very
+striking features are the immense arched openings upon the Paca street
+façade, being seventeen feet in width and twenty-five feet in height,
+which with their broad treatment of mullioned panels and heavy
+rough-hewn stonework, give strength and character to the building.
+These spacious windows are not simply for effect, but designate the
+location of the principal offices, and by their wide expanse afford
+abundance of light to the show-rooms, making these departments
+particularly attractive by the cheerful airiness and brightness that
+plenty of sunlight always brings.
+
+[Illustration: THE LARGE OFFICE WINDOWS.]
+
+Throughout the whole building is a generous treatment of spacious
+windows, flooding the interior with a bountiful supply of light, so
+necessary to the production of properly manufactured goods as well as
+to the health and comfort of the work-people.
+
+The main entrance to this building is marked by its liberal dimension.
+A slight elevation is made from the sidewalk, and beyond a recess of
+several feet are framed two large French plate glass windows, which
+afford a view of the entire extent of the first floor with its offices
+and extensive storage room. Entrance doors are placed on either side
+of this recess.
+
+[Illustration: THE FRONT ENTRANCE.]
+
+Broad stairways connect every floor, providing easy and quick ingress
+and egress at both the front and the back part of the building,
+rendering in the greatest degree security to the lives of those
+employed within.
+
+Adjoining, in the rear, is another structure three stories high,
+separated from the main building by fire-proof brick walls, and used
+as a boiler-room, as also for other departments of work desirable to
+be kept apart from the general work-rooms. This separate building was
+designed as an additional means of safety, in not having the large
+boilers within the limits of the main building.
+
+From basement to roof this model factory is well equipped with all
+necessary modern plans for producing the best that is capable of being
+made in this manufacturing line.
+
+
+
+
+WAYS AND MEANS OF THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+No. 18.
+
+
+Taking the start for a tour of inspection through the establishment of
+Brigham, Hopkins & Co., one is ushered directly into the first or main
+floor of the building, which is partly occupied by offices for the
+members of the firm and for the necessary clerical force, as well as
+the show-rooms for the exhibit of the products of this factory. These
+various apartments are partitioned off with handsomely beaded cherry,
+and a series of arched windows give beauty to the architecture and
+serve the practical purpose of ventilation.
+
+The several rooms upon this floor are handsomely finished in solid
+cherry; this was done solely with the view of harmonizing the effect
+with that of the exterior of the building, rather than for an
+indulgence in luxury.
+
+In the first office is a capacious fire-proof vault, having its
+counterpart in size in the basement, upon which the one in the office
+rests; it is built of yellow enameled-face brick, and with its
+handsomely finished iron door surmounted with a bold decoration in
+terra-cotta, adds greatly to the ornamentation of this room. The desks
+are all of cherry, large and capacious, designed expressly for the
+required accommodation of the bookkeepers.
+
+Adjoining is the private office of the members of the firm; among the
+decorations of this room is a spacious open fire-place, ornamented
+with terra-cotta tile and a handsome mantelpiece in carved cherry. The
+carpeted floor and tasty furniture serve to give that comfort that is
+looked for in the modern office of the business man. Beyond and
+leading from this office are show-rooms for the exhibition of the
+firm's products. These show-rooms, two in number, are without doubt
+the best in finish, breadth of space and arrangement of any in this
+branch of business in the United States, affording the best
+conveniences for the display of the handsome goods they contain; the
+first in size, 25 x 18 feet, with an adjoining one 18 x 12 feet, is
+supplied with handsomely designed show-cases of solid cherry and of
+glass; the wall space is colored a light tint, while the ceilings are
+laid off in yellow and brown. A long table of cherry occupies the
+centre of the large room, while the hard-wood floors are partially
+covered with oriental rugs. When these rooms are filled with the
+choice products of the firm, embracing the finest qualities of straw,
+with their trimmings of various hues and colors, intermingled with the
+sombre black of the derbys and the brilliant lustre of the silk hat,
+upon which is thrown a bountiful supply of light that comes from the
+spacious windows, a striking melange of harmonious colors is produced.
+Here the customer is surrounded by all that is desired from which to
+make his selection.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF THE OFFICES]
+
+Beyond these show-rooms is still another room devoted to the valuable
+collection of hat trimmings. While to the uninitiated the trimmings of
+a hat, consisting merely of its band and binding, may appear quite
+insignificant, yet to the manufacturer it is a part of great
+importance. Here in this room, stored in various quantities, are two
+hundred different designs of hat-bands, every one of which is the
+product of a French or German loom, mostly made from original designs
+furnished and sent abroad to be executed for this firm.
+
+From this, the last of the series of departments on this floor, exit
+is gained to the remaining space, which is used for the packing and
+storing of goods ordered and received finished from the factory.
+
+With an ascent to the second floor by a broad stairway, the
+"finishing" department of silk and fur hats is entered; this
+department occupies the entire space of this floor. Here the silk hat
+is made and finished complete, and the derby, whose process of
+manufacture belongs to several departments, receives its finishing
+touches, of curling and setting the brim, after which it is neatly
+nested in tissue paper and placed in paper boxes to be sent to the
+packer.
+
+The third floor provides three departments: that of silk and felt hat
+trimming, straw hat trimming department, and that very valuable and
+necessary auxiliary to business, the printing department. Although two
+branches of the hat business are carried on under the same roof (that
+of straw and that of silk and felt hats), they are kept entirely
+separate and distinct in all their requirements and details, which
+affords a reason for the difference in aspect of the trimming
+departments on this floor. In one, the multitude of busy hands is at
+work upon hats of black, while in the adjoining department, the many
+nimble fingers are handling the light and delicate straw and the
+bright ribbons, making a contrast of the sombre with the gay.
+
+Entering the next department, we find that element of development,
+that force of propulsion by means of which modern business plans are
+moved and executed--the printing press. This department is fitted and
+furnished complete with such requirements as are necessary to the
+advance of an enterprising business. A large Gordon press, propelled
+by steam power, is kept constantly in use to supply the vast amount
+of printing required in the details of this business. Tips, labels,
+size-marks, tickets for use in the various departments of "making,"
+"sewing," "sizing," "finishing," and "blocking." Order tickets,
+coupons, boxes and box labels and mercantile printing are but a
+portion of the work done here. In addition, a patent gas-heating press
+is used for printing in gold and silver leaf. There also emanates from
+this department a monthly trade journal, conducted under the auspices
+of the firm.
+
+Ascending to the fourth floor, the noisy sound of machinery is first
+heard. This is the department for sewing straw braid; here
+unquestionably centres the interest in a hat factory; the hum of a
+hundred machines quickens the pulse, and to the observer, the interest
+and astonishment increases as the wonderful machine with its lightning
+speed, guided by the magic touch of the young woman who rules it,
+draws towards itself yard after yard of the delicate strand of straw
+plait which it sews together by the finest stitch of the most slender
+thread, till suddenly a hat comes forth, complete in its full
+perfection of shape. One's surprise would not be more greatly
+heightened by a display of the magician's art. The marvel of this
+accomplishment may be effectively demonstrated by a simple statement.
+That bit of mechanism occupying a space of 10 x 12 inches, with its
+apparently simple arrangement of levers and cogs, merely carrying a
+needle to and fro, up and down, will do in a single minute the work an
+industrious woman with her unaided fingers could not do in less than
+an hour. That little machine is capable of doing within the working
+hours of a day the labor of sixty women; while a hundred machines in a
+factory are capable of producing the handwork of six thousand people;
+this shows the progress of the world, and the advance that has come
+to this branch of industry within the last thirty years.
+
+[Illustration: SEWING DEPARTMENT.]
+
+Straw braid preparatory to being sewed is wound upon reels, from which
+it is easily fed to the sewing machine; this department of winding and
+reeling is also located upon this floor.
+
+Adjoining is the machine room. This department is not only the
+hospital for invalid and incapacitated machines, where they receive
+the treatment required to put them in suitable working condition, but
+its field of usefulness is extended to the making of much of the
+required machinery, implements and various tools used throughout the
+establishment.
+
+Another flight of stairs and the fifth floor is reached. This is the
+straw hat pressing department, occupied entirely by men. Here are the
+more weighty evidences of labor and work. Heavy and powerful hydraulic
+presses are used in shaping the ordinary kinds of straw hats, and the
+necessary metal moulds that form the "dies" for these machines
+represent tons of zinc. Also in this room is row after row of benches,
+equipped for that special branch of "hand-finish," which has so
+greatly assisted in the reputation of the straw hats sent from this
+establishment. These benches each accommodate six workmen, are
+supplied with a labor-saving appliance of great merit, the invention
+of one of the firm's employees and at present in use only in this
+factory, which is, that by means of rubber tubes a combination of gas
+and air is carried into the pressing irons, by which heat is regulated
+to any required degree. The advantage of this may be realized when it
+is known that heretofore these press-irons were heated by "slugs" or
+pieces of iron or steel, which, drawn from the furnaces of anthracite
+coal fires, were encased in the hollow irons. By this new invention a
+remarkable saving is made, by the abandonment of the furnace, in the
+coal necessarily used, also in the not insignificant matter of time
+consumed by the presser in the constant replenishing of "slugs." Its
+work is acceptable to the workman and desirable for securing an
+improvement to the goods.
+
+[Illustration: STRAW HAT FINISHING DEPARTMENT.]
+
+The next, the sixth floor, has a department of both the straw and felt
+hat branches of the business. The finishing department of felt hats is
+a large room 150 by an average of 25 feet, closely studded on three
+sides with large windows, which at this height throw upon the workmen
+an unobstructed flood of light, affording unusual advantages for the
+most thorough perfection in the finish of these goods. This room has
+capacity for one hundred finishers, allowing generous space for each,
+giving the convenience and comfort that but few factories afford their
+work-people.
+
+Adjoining is the department of bleaching and dyeing of straw plaits.
+This department is supplied with all the modern conveniences for
+securing the best results. Large wooden vats receive the straw plaits
+for a thorough cleansing before it is ready for manufacture. Bleaching
+tubs are near at hand, and large copper vats with all the required
+steam attachments for dyeing the many desired colors are here
+conveniently arranged.
+
+Ascending still another flight of stairs, the drying department is
+reached; this is the most spacious of all the many divisions of this
+establishment, for it has the sky for a ceiling and unlimited space,
+being virtually upon the roof. Here, ninety feet from the ground, is
+carried on one of the important divisions of the straw hat business.
+Two large rooms, really houses in themselves, are built upon this
+roof; these are the bleach houses, which are provided with artificial
+stone floors, rendering them thoroughly secure from the chance of
+ignited brimstone coming in contact with any part of the woodwork of
+the building. The remaining space upon the roof, equal in its extent
+to two good-sized city building lots, is secured around and over by a
+substantial wire netting. Within this enclosure the hats and straw
+braids coming from the bleaching and dyeing departments are dried.
+
+Ascent has been provided by stairways leading from the front part of
+this building; descent is also had by the rear, where broad stairs are
+partitioned off from the work-rooms, making a continuous spacious
+hallway from top to basement--a wise precaution, taken in consideration
+of the safety of the lives of those employed. This building, capable
+of accommodating six hundred work-people, is provided with the most
+convenient means of escape in case of fire by these broad stairways at
+each end of the building.
+
+As additional precaution for safety, the boilers supplying the
+required steam for the various departments, as well as for the motive
+power and heat, are in a building adjoining the main one, but
+separated by a fire-proof brick wall, and is only accessible by
+entrance from the outside; here are located two boilers, with a
+combined capacity of one hundred horse power. Above this boiler-room
+are two departments desirable to be kept apart from the others; these
+are the moulding and casting departments, in one of which is made the
+vast number of plaster shapes and blocks required in the factory, and
+some idea may be gained of the quantity when it is here mentioned that
+this department converts annually two hundred barrels of plaster of
+Paris into hat blocks.
+
+In the casting department are the necessary melting furnaces and other
+requisites for casting metal "dies," parts of machinery, and the
+various things needed in a large manufacturing business.
+
+Two large freight elevators, reaching from basement to roof, each of
+one ton capacity and propelled by steam power, are placed in the
+building. These elevators are furnished with automatic attachments by
+which as they ascend and descend each of the floors open and close,
+thus avoiding permanent openings, the frequent cause of accidents and
+assistance in the spread of a conflagration; an additional small
+elevator gives the convenience of transmitting light packages to and
+from every floor.
+
+Electric bells and tubes afford telephonic communication with every
+department. Steam heat radiates throughout the entire building, and a
+reel of hose attached to a water supply pipe is in readiness upon each
+floor in case of fire. The length of steam, gas, and water pipes
+throughout the building is estimated at five miles. The telegraph
+call-box signals for the messenger, and the telephone, aids in the
+execution of the advanced method of reducing the detailed requirements
+of a large business to a perfectly controllable system in its
+management.
+
+The engine supplying the motive power for this establishment is
+located in the basement. With exception of this room, partitioned off
+for the engine, the entire space of the basement of this large
+building is used for receiving and storing raw materials used in the
+manufacture of both straw and fur hats. Here the visitor's imagination
+may indulge in a wide scope, and his thoughts wander away to many
+foreign lands, for in this store-room are found the products of nearly
+every country in the world. China is seen in its strong and durable
+straw plaits; Japan, a new and formidable rival, shows its handsome
+goods; far-off India contributing its products, while England, France
+and Belgium send their choice plaits; Italy, Germany, and Spain are
+represented, as also South America, Canada, and our own United States,
+while the Hawaiian Islands make a pretence at competition with the
+world in the making of straw plaits, by submitting creditable
+specimens of their native products. Furs for making derby hats are
+also here, sent by Russia, France and Germany. In observing the firm's
+connection with countries quite encompassing the entire globe, some
+idea of the extent of this business may be realized.
+
+Thus a fair description is here given of a thoroughly equipped hat
+factory existing in Baltimore, in the year eighteen hundred and
+eighty-nine, and the reader may realize by comparison the advance of
+improvement from the last decade of the eighteenth century to the
+commencement of the last decade of the nineteenth century.
+
+THE END.
+
+
+The Hatter and Furrier
+
+PUBLISHED MONTHLY AT
+
+_7 Washington Place,--=NEW YORK=_,
+
+Is the LARGEST AND HANDSOMEST HAT AND FUR JOURNAL IN THE WORLD, and
+the only journal in its line that gives full and reliable information
+upon the trades represented by its title.
+
+Each number comprises Editorials upon the Trade Styles and Colors,
+Treasury Decisions, Reports of Meetings, Original Correspondence from
+Trade Centers, etc., etc.
+
+The FASHION PLATES issued each season are superior in design and
+execution to anything of the kind in this or any other country, and
+are alone worth the full price of subscription.
+
+The =FUR DEPARTMENT= contains special information and reports upon all
+matters connected with this important industry.
+
+All patents of interest to the Hat, Fur and allied Trades are
+published and illustrated as soon as issued.
+
+=ALL FOR $2.00 PER YEAR.=
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_THE GALLISON & HOBRON COMPANY_,
+
+_7 Washington Place, Cor. Mercer St., =NEW YORK=_,
+
+ISSUE THE FOLLOWING PUBLICATIONS:
+
+    THE HATTER AND FURRIER, Monthly,                    $2.00 per Year
+    THE CLOTHIER AND FURNISHER, Monthly,                 2.00    "
+    THE CLOAK, SUIT AND LADIES' WEAR REVIEW, Monthly,    2.00    "
+    THE HATTER AND FURRIER DIRECTORY, Yearly, in June.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Advertising Cuts for Hatters, Furriers, Clothiers and Furnishers. Send
+for illustrated catalogues.
+
+
+Hatters' Letters
+
+_FOR INITIAL LETTERS IN HATS_.
+
+GUMMED AND EASILY ATTACHED.
+
+
+_BLOCK OR SCRIPT, IN GOLD OR SILVER._
+
+A complete alphabet of twenty-six dozen letters (one dozen of a kind
+in a package) mailed on receipt of P. O. Order or stamps, for $1.50.
+Any special letters at the rate of 75 cents per gross (no dozen
+packages broken). Neat and strong division boxes at 50 cents apiece.
+
+_GEO. FRANKE, 31 Hanover St.,_
+
+_Baltimore, Md._
+
+REFERENCE: DUN'S MERCANTILE AGENCY.
+
+
+CHAPIN HATS
+
+Are sold by a representative Broadway Hatter at a saving to the
+consumer of
+
+=ONE DOLLAR ON EACH HAT.=
+
+
+Guaranty with Derby Hats.
+
+PRICE FOUR DOLLARS.
+
+This hat is warranted equal in value to any sold at Five Dollars. It
+is absolutely correct New York style. The styles are issued
+semi-annually by the undersigned and his agents throughout the United
+States and Canada.
+
+Spring Shapes, first Wednesday in March. Fall Shapes, first Wednesday
+in September.
+
+CHAPIN.
+
+    1179 Broadway
+    and 12 Astor Place, New York.
+
+
+Guaranty with Silk Hats.
+
+PRICE SEVEN DOLLARS.
+
+This hat is warranted equal in value to any sold at Eight Dollars. It
+is absolutely correct New York style. The styles are issued
+semi-annually by the undersigned and his agents throughout the United
+States and Canada.
+
+Spring Shapes, first Wednesday in March. Fall Shapes, first Wednesday
+in September.
+
+CHAPIN.
+
+    1179 Broadway
+    and 12 Astor Place, New York.
+
+FIRST-CLASS HATTERS
+
+Wishing to secure the CHAPIN Agency for territory not already
+represented will please communicate with
+
+L. A. CHAPIN,
+
+=1179 BROADWAY, NEW YORK=.
+
+
+_ONLY SKILLED WORK-PEOPLE EMPLOYED._
+
+EDWARD A. SELLIEZ,
+
+MANUFACTURER OF
+
+=Fine Cloth Hats and Caps,=
+
+No. 17 North Fifth Street,
+
+Careful Attention Given to Details. =PHILADELPHIA, PA.=
+
+_=NEW YORK AGENT, W. P. MONTAGUE, 635 BROADWAY.=_
+
+
+YOU MAKE A SAFE HIT
+
+WHEN YOU CALL UPON
+
+=C. W. FINDLEY & CO.=
+
+_261 N. Third Street, Philadelphia, or Cor. Baltimore and Liberty
+Streets, Baltimore,_
+
+=FOR HATTERS' PRINTING, ADVERTISING NOVELTIES, RICKETT'S HAT TAGS, PURE
+GOLD INITIALS, BOX LABELS, SIZE MARKS, ADHESIVE LABELS, ETC.=
+
+
+WATERBURY BUTTON CO.
+
+No. 48 HOWARD STREET,
+
+NEW YORK.
+
+FACTORY, WATERBURY, CONN.
+
+MANUFACTURERS OF
+
+    MILITARY, AND ALL UNIFORM BUTTONS,
+
+    LADIES' FANCY METAL BUTTONS,
+
+    CLOTH, AND ALL KINDS OF COVERED BUTTONS,
+
+    VEGETABLE IVORY BUTTONS,
+
+    GILT, PLAIN AND FANCY BUTTONS.
+
+FANCY BRASS GOODS.
+
+TOILET PINS. NURSERY PINS.
+
+
+_WILLIAM P. MONTAGUE,_
+
+MANUFACTURER OF NOVELTIES IN
+
+BOYS' AND CHILDREN'S
+
+=HATS,=
+
+=635 Broadway, New York.=
+
+SELLING AGENT FOR
+
+=BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO.=
+
+BALTIMORE.
+
+=EDWARD A. SELLIEZ,=
+
+PHILADELPHIA.
+
+
+The Most Desirable
+
+=STRAW,=
+
+Silk, Cassimere, Fine Stiff and Self-Conforming
+
+=HATS=
+
+ARE THOSE MADE BY
+
+=BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO.=
+
+    _FACTORIES_:  { _German and Paca Sts., Baltimore._
+                  { _Paca and King Sts., Baltimore._
+
+    _SALESROOMS_: {  _German and Paca Sts., Baltimore._
+                  {  _635 Broadway, New York._
+
+The productions of BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO. rank as BEST in the UNITED
+STATES, which signifies the BEST in the WORLD.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Baltimore Hats, by William T. Brigham
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BALTIMORE HATS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 39780-8.txt or 39780-8.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/7/8/39780/
+
+Produced by Bethanne M. Simms, Matthew Wheaton and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
+  www.gutenberg.org/license.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at 809
+North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887.  Email
+contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the
+Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:  www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For forty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/39780-8.zip b/39780-8.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..642dd77
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-8.zip
diff --git a/39780-h.zip b/39780-h.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f8bbbac
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h.zip
diff --git a/39780-h/39780-h.htm b/39780-h/39780-h.htm
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9c2de76
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/39780-h.htm
@@ -0,0 +1,4125 @@
+<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.1//EN" "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml11/DTD/xhtml11.dtd">
+
+<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml">
+
+<head>
+
+  <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" />
+  <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" />
+
+  <title>
+    The Project Gutenberg eBook of Baltimore Hats, Past And Present, by William T. Brigham.
+  </title>
+
+  <style type="text/css">
+
+  a.fnanchor {
+   vertical-align:super;
+   font-size:.8em;
+   text-decoration:
+   none;
+  }
+
+  body {
+   margin-left:10%;
+   margin-right:10%;
+  }
+
+  div.center {
+   text-align:center;
+  }
+
+  div.center table {
+   margin-left:auto;
+   margin-right:auto;
+   text-align:left;
+  }
+
+  div.figcenter {
+   padding:1em;
+   text-align:center;
+   font-size:0.8em;
+   border:none;
+   margin:auto;
+   text-indent:1em;
+  }
+
+  div.footnote {
+   font-size:0.9em;
+   margin-right:10%;
+   margin-left:10%;
+  }
+
+  div.footnote .label  {
+   position:absolute;
+   right:84%;
+   text-align:right;
+  }
+
+  #i007  {background:url(images/i007.jpg) no-repeat top left}
+  #i007a {
+             clear:none;
+             float:left;
+             width:178px;
+             height:085px;
+            }
+  #i007b {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:080px;
+             height:139px;
+            }
+
+  #i021  {background:url(images/i021.jpg) no-repeat top left}
+  #i021a {
+             clear:none;
+             float:left;
+             width:200px;
+             height:080px;
+            }
+  #i021b {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:140px;
+             height:165px;
+            }
+
+  div.i060  {background:url(images/i060.jpg) no-repeat top left}
+  div.i060a {
+             clear:none;
+             float:left;
+             width:100%;
+             height:025px;
+            }
+  div.i060b {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:095px;
+             height:080px;
+            }
+
+  div.i060c {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:065px;
+             height:035px;
+            }
+
+  div.i060d {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:030px;
+             height:040px;
+            }
+
+     #i108  {background:url(images/i108.jpg) no-repeat top left}
+     #i108a {
+             clear:none;
+             float:left;
+             width:100%;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+     #i108b {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:099px;
+             height:080px;
+            }
+
+     #i108c {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:070px;
+             height:035px;
+            }
+
+     #i108d {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:035px;
+             height:040px;
+            }
+
+     #i112  {background:url(images/i112.jpg) no-repeat top left}
+     #i112a {
+             clear:none;
+             float:left;
+             width:100%;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+     #i112b {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:235px;
+             height:180px;
+            }
+
+     #i112c {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:095px;
+             height:055px;
+            }
+
+     #i120  {background:url(images/i120.jpg) no-repeat top left}
+     #i120a {
+             clear:none;
+             float:left;
+             width:100%;
+             height:010px;
+            }
+     #i120b {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:215px;
+             height:010px;
+            }
+
+     #i120c {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:225px;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+     #i120d {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:270px;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+     #i120e {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:285px;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+
+     #i120f {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:265px;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+     #i120g {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:260px;
+             height:030px;
+            }
+     #i120h {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:240px;
+             height:020px;
+            }
+
+     #i120i {
+             clear:both;
+             float:left;
+             width:225px;
+             height:280px;
+            }
+
+  div.poem {
+   margin-left:10%;
+   margin-right:10%;
+   margin-bottom:1em;
+   text-align:left;
+  }
+
+  div.stanza {
+   margin:2em 0 0 2em;
+  }
+
+  div.stanza span.i0 {
+   display:block;
+   margin-left:0em;
+   padding-left:3em;
+   text-indent:-3em;
+  }
+
+  h1, h2, h3, h4 {
+   text-align:center;
+  }
+
+  h1.booktitle {
+   letter-spacing:3px;
+  }
+
+  hr.chap {
+   margin-top:6em;
+   margin-bottom:4em;
+   clear:both;
+  }
+
+  hr.thin {
+   margin-right:47%;
+   margin-left:47%;
+   margin-top:0%;
+   margin-bottom:0%;
+   width:6%;
+  }
+
+  img.border2 {
+   border-width:2px;
+   border-style:solid;
+   border-color:black;
+  }
+
+  img.dropimg  {
+   float:left;
+   margin-top:-.5em;
+   margin-right:.5em;
+   margin-bottom:0;
+  }
+
+  img.wrap  {
+   float: left;
+   margin-right:1em;
+   padding: 0;
+  }
+
+  img.wrapr {
+   float: right;
+   margin-left:1em;
+   padding: 0;
+  }
+
+  p {
+   text-align:justify;
+   margin-top:.75em;
+   margin-bottom:.75em;
+   text-indent:0;
+  }
+
+  p.author {
+   text-align:right;
+   margin-right:5%;
+  }
+
+  p.caption {
+   text-indent:0;
+   text-align:center;
+   font-weight:bold;
+   margin-bottom:2em;
+  }
+
+  p.h1 {
+   font-size:2em;
+   margin:.67em 0;
+  }
+
+  p.h1, p.h2, p.h3, p.h4 {
+   font-weight:bolder;
+   text-align:center;
+   text-indent:0;
+  }
+
+  p.h2 {
+   font-size:1.5em;
+   margin:.75em 0;
+  }
+
+  p.h3 {
+   font-size:1.17em;
+   margin:.83em 0;
+  }
+
+  p.h4 {
+   margin:1.12em 0 ;
+  }
+
+  p.spacer {
+   margin-top:2em;
+   margin-bottom:3em;
+  }
+
+  span.pagenum {
+   visibility:hidden;   /* comment out to reveal page numbers */
+   position:absolute;
+   right:2%;
+   font-size:75%;
+   color:gray;
+   background-color:inherit;
+   text-align:right;
+   text-indent:0;
+   font-style:normal;
+   font-weight:normal;
+   font-variant:normal;
+  }
+
+  span.hide {
+   display:none
+  }
+
+  span.in2 {
+   margin-left:2em;
+  }
+
+  td.tdl {
+   text-align:left;
+  }
+
+  td.tdr {
+   text-align:right;
+   padding-right:1em;
+  }
+
+  td.tdrfirst {
+   text-align:right;
+   padding-right:1em;
+   font-size:80%;
+  }
+
+  *.smcap {
+   font-variant:small-caps;
+  }
+
+  </style>
+
+</head>
+
+<body>
+
+
+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Baltimore Hats, by William T. Brigham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Baltimore Hats
+       Past and Present
+
+Author: William T. Brigham
+
+Release Date: May 23, 2012 [EBook #39780]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BALTIMORE HATS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bethanne M. Simms, Matthew Wheaton and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="400" height="534" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">BALTIMORE HATS<br />
+PAST AND PRESENT.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i001.jpg" width="400" height="583" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<h1 class="booktitle">BALTIMORE HATS<br />
+PAST AND PRESENT</h1>
+
+<p class="h3">AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE HAT INDUSTRY OF BALTIMORE<br />
+FROM ITS EARLIEST DAYS TO THE PRESENT TIME.</p>
+
+<p class="h3"><br />BY</p>
+
+<p class="h2">WILLIAM T. BRIGHAM.</p>
+
+<p class="spacer">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<hr class="thin" />
+
+<p class="h4"><i>PRINTED FOR GRATUITOUS CIRCULATION ONLY.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="thin" />
+
+<p class="spacer">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="h4">BALTIMORE:<br />
+MDCCCLXXXX.</p>
+
+<p class="spacer">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="h4"><span class="smcap">Copyrighted, 1890, by Wm. T. Brigham.</span></p>
+
+<p class="spacer">&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="h4"><i>Press and Bindery of Isaac Friedenwald, Baltimore, Md.</i></p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+<h2><a id="PREFACE">PREFACE.</a></h2>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i003.jpg" width="92" height="102" alt="" />
+<b><span class="hide">I</span>T</b> is not impossible that some useful information may be conveyed by
+this book. Should these pages prove of such service, their cost in
+labor is most cheerfully donated.</p>
+
+<p>This volume is composed of a series of articles which appeared in a
+Trade Journal, covering a period of two years from 1887 to 1889. It
+must be accepted as but a brief history of an industry long identified
+with Baltimore.</p>
+
+<p>Thanks are due the Librarian of the Maryland Historical Society and
+Mr. B. R. Sheriff for favors in lending rare and valuable old City
+directories; also to the many citizens who kindly aided and assisted
+in the search for needed information.</p>
+
+<p class="author"><span class="smcap">The Author</span>.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Baltimore, 1890.</span></p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<h2><a id="CONTENTS">CONTENTS.</a></h2>
+
+<div class="center">
+<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents">
+<tr>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td>&nbsp;</td>
+  <td class="tdrfirst">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">1.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#INTRODUCTORY">INTRODUCTORY.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">1</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">2.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#EARLY_DAYS">EARLY DAYS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">7</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">3.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#PERIOD_OF_THE_REVOLUTION">PERIOD OF THE REVOLUTION.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">15</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">4.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#AFTER_THE_REVOLUTION">AFTER THE REVOLUTION.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">23</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">5.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#EARLY_IN_THE_XIX_CENTURY">EARLY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">31</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">6.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#SOME_OLD_FIRMS">SOME OLD FIRMS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">38</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">7.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#PATRIARCHS_OF_THE_TRADE">PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">46</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">8.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#JACOB_ROGERS">JACOB ROGERS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">54</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">9.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#OLD_METHODS">OLD METHODS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">62</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">10.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#JOHN_PETTICORD">JOHN PETTICORD.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">75</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">11.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#MIDDLE_OF_THE_CENTURY">MIDDLE OF THE CENTURY.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">80</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">12.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#FASHIONS">FASHIONS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">87</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">13.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#NEW_DEVELOPMENTS">NEW DEVELOPMENTS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">94</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">14.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#GROWTH_OF_BUSINESS">GROWTH OF BUSINESS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">102</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">15.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#HISTORY_OF_THE_MACKINAW_HAT">HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">106</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">16.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#MODERN_IMPROVEMENTS">MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">114</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">17.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#A_MODEL_ESTABLISHMENT">A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">121</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+  <td class="tdr">18.</td>
+  <td class="tdl"><a href="#WAYS_AND_MEANS_OF_THE_PRESENT_TIME">WAYS AND MEANS OF THE PRESENT TIME.</a></td>
+  <td class="tdr">129</td>
+</tr>
+</table></div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1">1</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="h2">Baltimore Hats&mdash;Past and Present.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<h2><a id="INTRODUCTORY">INTRODUCTORY.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 1.</p>
+
+<div id="i007">
+<div id="i007a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i007b">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<br />
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">P</span>AST AND PRESENT</b> have each their independent significance. The past
+gives freely to us the experiences of others, the present a suitable
+opportunity to improve upon what has already occurred. With our
+observation and acceptance of these privileges so easily obtained, we
+reap the benefit of their advantages and unconsciously find ourselves
+the gainers both in capacity and intelligence. A history of the past,
+giving the record of events and circumstances existing before our own
+day, bringing to our knowledge the accomplishments, business
+enterprises and undertakings of our predecessors, is a profitable
+study,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2">2</a></span> and the reader gratifies his curiosity in observing how
+differently things were conducted and managed a century ago as
+compared with the processes of the present day, exciting a sense of
+wonder at the rapid progress that has been made in a comparatively
+short period of time. Think of it! quite within the lifetime of many
+of us have been the most wonderful of inventions&mdash;the steam engine,
+steam vessels, the telegraph and other wonders<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3">3</a></span> and triumphs of
+electricity. The wildest fancy may not be styled visionary in
+anticipating the appearance of things still more surprising.</p>
+
+</div><!--i007-->
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i008.jpg" width="183" height="282" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">THEN.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i009.jpg" width="269" height="249" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">NOW.</p>
+
+<p>Continued familiarity with the present system of making hats has the
+tendency in a great degree to prevent a recognition, until brought to
+our notice by comparison of the wide difference existing between the
+old and new methods, and this common every-day experience assists in
+making us unappreciative of the remarkable improvements that have been
+made in this branch of business.</p>
+
+<p>Only a half a century ago the time required to make a single fur hat
+from the prepared material was fully a week,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4">4</a></span> and the average
+production was two hats per day per man. With the bowing of the fur,
+the forming and shrinking of the bodies, and the handwork of finishing
+and trimming, all of which by the aid of modern science and invention
+is to-day done by machinery more perfectly and completely at the rate
+in production of twenty times that of fifty years ago, while the
+sewing of a straw hat, which could hardly be done in an hour by the
+plodding work of the hand, stitch by stitch, is, by the rapid
+sewing-machine, made in a minute. When we think of the largest number
+of stitches our mothers and sisters could take in their needlework by
+hand and contrast it with the result of the sewing-machine that spins
+its twenty-two hundred stitches a minute, we are able to gain some
+adequate idea of the saving of labor, and while we complacently accept
+these marvellous accomplishments, the question whether it be to the
+poor and needy a loss or gain is still an undecided problem. With all
+the advantages now at our command, it appears to us a matter of
+surprise how our forefathers, with their apparently indifferent
+methods, could profitably succeed in their labors. With steam engines,
+sewing-machines and electricity, the quick accomplishments of the
+present compared with the slow movements of the past tend to make one
+think we are living in an age of wonders amounting almost to
+miracles.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5">5</a></span></p>
+
+<p>What would be the exclamation of the ghosts of our great-grandfathers
+who, with the rapid trot of an ox-team, drove to church miles away
+through the storms of winter to exemplify their devotion to the truth
+of their faith, if suddenly they could rise and observe the luxury of
+the present modes of transportation in convenient palace cars and
+palatial steamships, our comfortable and gaudy churches, and our easy
+ways of communicating instantly with those thousands of miles away
+from us? Aladdin's wonderful experiences, or the magical change by
+Cinderella's fairy god-mother, would appear tame to their intense
+surprise.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i011.jpg" width="295" height="147" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">RAPID TRANSIT IN OLDEN TIMES.</p>
+
+<p>In a series of articles it is proposed to give an account of the
+growth of the hat manufacturing business, one of the most interesting
+of Baltimore's industries; how at an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6">6</a></span> early period it was raised into
+conspicuous prominence in common with other enterprises undertaken in
+the active spirit which has always characterized Baltimore merchants
+as among the foremost of their time. They will also treat of its
+gradual growth and development, followed by a temporary decline of
+progress caused by the Civil War and its consequences, and finally of
+its triumphant stride to place itself again in line with other leading
+industries of this enterprising metropolis, for without doubt it holds
+to-day an enviable position among the different trades, a position
+acquired by the thoroughness, determination and perseverance of those
+engaged in its development.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i012.jpg" width="125" height="207" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">AN OLD TIMER.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7">7</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="EARLY_DAYS">EARLY DAYS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 2.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i013.jpg" width="168" height="235" alt="" />
+<b><span class="hide">T</span>HE</b> spirit of ambition and independence constituting the fundamental
+principles of manhood, and inspiring a nobleness of character which in
+time of the country's struggle for liberty helped to give her the
+benefits of wise counsel, noble patriotism and manly service, was
+early manifested by the neighboring colony of Virginia, as in the year
+1662 she ventured upon a practical plan to encourage the manufacture
+of hats by offering a premium of ten pounds of tobacco for every
+domestic hat made of fur or wool. What resulted from this generous act
+we are not informed, but there is no evidence that it in any degree
+stimulated the production of hats in that colony, and it is a noted
+fact that hat-making to any extent has never flourished south of
+Baltimore. This<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8">8</a></span> city seems to have been the southern boundary
+line&mdash;the geographical limit in that direction&mdash;of hat-manufacturing.
+As an offset to this enterprising manifesto of Virginia is a petition
+in the year 1731 of the hat-makers of London to the "Lords of Trade,"
+to enact a law forbidding the American colonists to wear hats not made
+in Great Britain. This law was passed, attaching a penalty of five
+hundred pounds sterling (twenty-five hundred dollars) for its
+violation.</p>
+
+<p>The archives of the New Jersey Historical Society for the year 1731
+show that there was one hatter in that colony, and from a history of
+Boston we learn that sixteen hat-makers of that town were affected by
+the edict of these despotic English law-makers.</p>
+
+<p>In this manner were the enterprises of the new continent checked and
+the attempt made to crush out that spirit of progress so manifest in
+the brightest of the English colonies. It was the continuation of such
+injustice and oppression that eventually inspired a rebellious spirit
+to take the place of patience and submission, ending in a revolt, the
+termination of which secured us liberty and justice and the
+announcement of our complete independence on the 4th of July, 1776.</p>
+
+<p>The style of hat of this period (1731) had the sides of the brim
+turned up, with a front of an easy curl, which,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9">9</a></span> nearly resembling a
+cap-visor, made it in shape somewhat between a hat and cap; this seems
+to have been the first approach toward the "cocked" or three-cornered
+hat afterwards so extensively used, and to Americans the most familiar
+of past styles, from its being a fashion of the period of the
+Revolution, by which it became the prominent part of an historical
+costume. The arbitrary law before alluded to was afterwards modified,
+but an uncomfortable restriction continued to be enforced upon all
+manufactures, for in the year 1750 the English Parliament, among other
+unjust acts, enacted a law forbidding exportation of hats from one
+colony to another and allowing no hatter to have more than two
+apprentices at one time, "because the colonists, if let alone, would
+soon supply the whole world with hats."</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrap" src="images/i015.jpg" width="153" height="153" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The French fashion of this time had the brazen characteristic of its
+brim rising erect from the forehead, a style seemingly in keeping with
+the then irritable condition and reckless agitation of the French
+people.</p>
+
+<p>Planch&eacute;, in his "Cyclop&aelig;dia of Costumes" (vol. 1, page 261), quotes a
+humorous description, evidently referring to this particular style, as
+follows: "Some wear<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10">10</a></span> their hats with the corners that should cover the
+forehead high in the air, these are called Gawkies; others do not half
+cover their heads, which, indeed, is owing to the shallowness of their
+crowns, but between beaver and eyebrows exposes a blank forehead,
+which looks like a sandy road in a surveyor's plan."</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrapr" src="images/i016.jpg" width="140" height="186" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>From the year 1750 until after the Revolution there was but little
+change in the general character of style in men's hats: the custom of
+erecting the brims by tying or looping them up prevailed. Soon the
+elevation of the brim of 1750 was abandoned and a change made by
+looping it at the points of a triangle, producing the three-cornered
+or "cocked" hat. This was a becoming style we must admit, and one
+seemingly well suited to the independent, fearless and patriotic
+characteristics of our forefathers' traits, the possession of which at
+that time gave us all the comforts that are ours now. The "cocked" hat
+enjoyed a long popularity, continuing in fashion until near the close
+of the century, when the "steeple top" and "chimney pot" styles&mdash;slang
+terms for the high beavers&mdash;came into vogue, a style which Ashton, an
+English writer, designates as "the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11">11</a></span> hideous head-covering that has
+martyrized at least three generations."</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrap" src="images/i017.jpg" width="124" height="143" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Departure from settled and accustomed styles created the same furore
+and astonishment, and subjected the venturesome individual whose
+inclinations led an advance in fashion to the same exposure to
+ridicule as affects the "swell" of the present day, and the reporters
+of "society doings" then were as close observers, as keen in wit, and
+as unmerciful in criticism as any of their kin to-day. Planch&eacute;,
+quoting from the <i>London Chronicle</i> for 1762, refers to fashion of
+hats at that time as follows: "Hats," says the writer, "are now worn
+on the average six and three-fifths inches broad in the brim and
+cocked. Some have their hats open like a church spout or like the
+scales they weigh their coffee in; some wear them rather sharp like
+the nose of the greyhound, and we can designate by the taste of the
+hat the mood of the wearer's mind. There is a military cock and a
+mercantile cock, and while the beaux of St. James wear their hats
+under their arms, the beaux of Moorfields-Mall wear theirs diagonally
+over the left or right eye; sailors wear their hats uniformly tucked
+down to the crown, and look as if they carried a triangular apple
+pasty upon their heads."</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12">12</a></span></p>
+
+<p>That "there is nothing new under the sun" is a maxim the truth of
+which is often verified within the limits of fashionable manners; thus
+the counterpart of the present captivating custom of carrying in the
+public ball-room or at the private party the collapsed "opera" hat
+under the arm is seen in the fashion of 1762, the only difference
+being, not as now, to doff the hat in the house, but when promenading
+the street the beau was to be seen with</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"A pretty black beaver tucked under his arm,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">If placed on his head it might keep him too warm."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i018.jpg" width="319" height="97" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The folded hat of 1762 differed from the opera hat of the present day
+also in the softness of the crown, permitting its being flattened, and
+the brim, as if hinged front and rear, folded at the sides like the
+corners of a book, while the present opera hat, constructed with
+jointed springs, allows its cylindrical crown to be flattened down to
+a level with the brim, which keeps its fixed shape.</p>
+
+<p>Scharf's "Chronicles of Baltimore" give the copy of an<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13">13</a></span> inventory made
+in the year 1779 of the personal effects of one Thos. Edgerton, a
+citizen of the Province of Maryland, and among them is his hat,
+described as having a gold band and feathers. This hat evidently was
+the celebrated cavalier style that appears in many of the portraits of
+Rubens, Vandycke and Rembrandt, of all styles the prettiest and most
+picturesque ever introduced.</p>
+
+<p>The wide brim of the cavalier hat was arranged as suited the fancy of
+the wearer, some of whom allowed it to take its natural shape, some
+would wear it looped up on the side, and by others it was caught up
+and attached to the crown at different angles; in fact, it was modeled
+very much as the ladies now-a-days do the "Gainsborough," exercising
+their own individual fancy as to the treatment of the brim.</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrapr" src="images/i019.jpg" width="147" height="159" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>Identical with the interests of Baltimore were the industries of other
+towns of the colony of Maryland, and among the earliest records
+referring to the hat business are several advertisements found in the
+<i>Maryland Gazette</i>, published at Annapolis. In February, 1760, Chas.
+Diggs advertises "men's and boys' castor and felt hats." In 1761
+Barnet West advertises<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14">14</a></span> "gold and silver band hats, just imported from
+London," and in April, 1761, appears the advertisement of Nathaniel
+Waters, of Annapolis, who announces that he has for sale "silver and
+gold buttons and loops for hats, and that he carries on the hat-making
+as usual."</p>
+
+<p>About this time Annapolis, being in her palmy days, was the center of
+gentility and fashionable life; here was congregated the blue blood of
+English aristocracy, who strove to foster and cultivate the same
+courtly splendor and etiquette existing in old England, which brought
+to the venerable place the enviable fame of being considered the most
+fashionable of our colonial towns.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i020.jpg" width="140" height="225" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">THE BEAU OF 1762.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15">15</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="PERIOD_OF_THE_REVOLUTION">PERIOD OF THE REVOLUTION.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 3.</p>
+
+<div id="i021">
+<div id="i021a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i021b">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<br />
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">A</span>N</b> indulgence of those inborn habits of luxury and fondness for rich
+and expensive dress by the wealthy land owners, comprising the large
+majority of the population of the Southern colonies, encouraged a
+demand for articles more elaborate and costly than those produced
+within the colonial territory; hence imported fabrics were by them
+largely preferred to those of domestic make. The gay and festive
+social life, and the means easily acquired from their profitable crops
+of cotton and tobacco, permitted indulgence in lavish expenditures for
+articles of fashionable attire and household elegance.</p>
+
+<p>The general customs of the people of the South had the effect of
+retarding the progress of ordinary trades by not affording sufficient
+patronage to encourage their successful undertaking; while, on the
+contrary, from the greater<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16">16</a></span> necessity with the Northern people of
+personal exertion and labor to provide the comforts of home life,
+sprung that support of manufactures which has so largely increased as
+to place the power and wealth of the country in their hands.</p>
+
+<p>The event of the American Revolution, however, somewhat changed this
+aspect of affairs. The genuineness of Maryland's loyalty was certainly
+in one way nobly demonstrated, and by an act of patriotic
+self-sacrifice, gave to her an unlooked-for reward in a prosperous
+future. Her people quickly espousing the cause of liberty, at once
+rejected articles of foreign make and gave choice to those of home
+production, thus stimulating industries in their midst which had not
+before flourished from lack of encouragement and support.</p>
+
+<p>Actuated by a feeling of sympathy for their fellow-citizens of
+Boston&mdash;whom the British Parliament in 1774 attempted to shut out from
+commercial intercourse with every part of the world&mdash;the citizens of
+Baltimore called a town meeting, unanimously recommending a general
+congress of delegates, to meet at Annapolis, to take action against
+this indignity on American liberties.</p>
+
+</div><!--i021-->
+
+<p>The congress met June 22, 1774, offering their heartiest support not
+only in resolution, but in the more substantial way of money and food,
+as aid to their Boston<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17">17</a></span> friends in the resistance to British tyranny
+and oppression, supplementing these patriotic resolutions by one
+making the importation of English goods an act disloyal to the
+sentiment of American hearts.</p>
+
+<p>The earliest manufacturing hatter in Baltimore, of whom any definite
+knowledge can be obtained, was David Shields, who kept store at No. 14
+Gay street. As the location was on the east side of Gay and the
+seventh house from the corner of Baltimore street, it probably was
+about half-way between Baltimore and Fayette streets. Here he sold to
+his patrons the products of his "back shop" or factory, which was
+located on the south side of East, now Fayette street, at a point
+half-way between Gay and Frederick streets. Mr. Shields' father was
+from Pennsylvania. David Shields was born in the year 1737, and his
+descendants of to-day include some of the wealthiest and most refined
+citizens of Baltimore. In Scharf's "Chronicles of Baltimore" his name
+is mentioned, in connection with others, in the year 1769 as aiding by
+a general subscription in procuring an engine for the extinguishment
+of fires; this engine was for the "Mechanical Fire Company," and was
+the first machine of its kind in Baltimore, costing the sum of two
+hundred and sixty-four dollars.</p>
+
+<p>Unfortunately, the information gained of Mr. Shields' business career
+is so meagre as to leave much to the imagination, but it is natural to
+suppose that in 1769,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18">18</a></span> being thirty-two years of age, he must have
+been established in business.</p>
+
+<p>That Mr. Shields was a public-spirited citizen is further proven by
+his connection with the First Baptist Society, being one of a
+committee constituted for the purpose of purchasing a lot upon which
+to erect a church; this was in 1773, two years before the Revolution.
+The church was built on Front street, upon the site now occupied by
+the Merchants' Shot Tower, and was the first Baptist Church erected in
+Baltimore.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>Federal Gazette</i> announces the death of Mr. Shields, October 4,
+1811, in the seventy-fourth year of his age; his funeral taking place
+from his residence, which was over his place of business, on Gay
+street.</p>
+
+<p>What may have been the actual condition of the hat business of
+Baltimore just before the Revolution has been difficult to ascertain.
+Mr. Shields must have been in business during this period, and it is
+more than probable that in a town of the size of Baltimore at that
+date there must have been others engaged in this branch of business,
+but how many and who they were cannot be ascertained. It is very
+likely that the restriction placed by English rule upon most
+manufacturing industries prior to the Revolution operated
+detrimentally upon this industry also, and while the ordinary kind of
+wool felt hats were made by the hatter in his own shop, undoubtedly
+most of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19">19</a></span> the fashionable hats sold and worn at that time were of
+English or French make. Paris (which then, as well as now, was the
+axis upon which revolved the world of fashion) possibly supplied the
+wants of Baltimore's highborn gentry, always famous for exquisite
+dress and refined taste, with the French chapeau&mdash;the <i>ton</i> of those
+days.</p>
+
+<p>As there are no existing detailed statistics of the business of
+Baltimore during the Revolutionary War, the record of some business
+firms has been entirely lost, and although some trades have received
+slight mention in the published histories of the city, a trace of the
+existence of but two hatters, who afterwards continued in business, is
+to be found. Since it is known as a fact that fourteen hatters were
+engaged in business in Baltimore, not later than ten years after the
+close of the war, we have a right to suppose that more than two must
+have been in business during the existence of the war.</p>
+
+<p>Among the proceedings of the "Council of Safety" of Maryland,
+organized at the outbreak of the war, is found the following order:
+"March 2, 1776. The Council of Safety authorize Major Gist to contract
+for fifty camp-kettles and as many <i>hats</i> as may be necessary for the
+battalion, not to exceed 7 shillings apiece." Again, April 6, 1776,
+"Commissary of Stores of Baltimore is ordered to send to Annapolis 200
+of the hats arrived from Philadelphia." Why Baltimore hatters did not
+supply the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20">20</a></span> needed hats for Maryland militia we cannot say, but
+probably a sharp competition for so <i>large</i> a contract wrested it from
+them.</p>
+
+<p>The adoption of the "cocked" hat in its various forms as a portion of
+the military costume of the Continental Army brought about the
+necessity of making a distinction between civil and military wear.</p>
+
+<p>After the close of the American Revolution France was in a state of
+civil insurrection, and the French "chapeau" of that time was
+constructed upon a plan somewhat similar to that of the "cocked" hat.
+With the termination of the French Revolution appeared the
+"steeple-top" hat, having a conical crown with stiff curled brim,
+drooping front and rear, being trimmed with a very wide band and
+ornamented in front with a huge metal buckle, a change radical enough
+from those preceding it, but admitting a question as to its
+comparative intrinsic beauty or to its being a more becoming part of
+male attire; the style withal certainly proved acceptable, for with
+slight modifications it has continued and is now embodied in the
+fashionable silk hat of the present time.</p>
+
+<p>Thus with the opening of the nineteenth century commenced the era of
+what may be correctly termed the <i>high</i> hat. Ashton, in "Old Times,"
+says of the style of 1790-95: "The 'cocked' hat had gone out, and the
+galling<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21">21</a></span> yoke of the 'chimney pot' was being inaugurated, which was as
+yet of limp felt."</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrap" src="images/i027.jpg" width="160" height="253" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>In fashions prevailing at the opening of the new century, particularly
+those of wearing apparel both for ladies and gentlemen, Paris took the
+lead, and though with many articles to-day Parisian designs and ideas
+secure the largest share of popularity, yet in regard to hats for
+gentlemen it can proudly be said that American-made hats are ahead in
+point of style and quality, and are no longer dependent upon foreign
+ingenuity for assistance in securing for them a ready sale; in fact,
+no American industry to-day stands in a more enviable position
+relatively to foreign manufactures than does that of hat-making.</p>
+
+<p>The fancy for sentimental hits and political phrases indulged in by
+modern hatters seems to have been the rage at an earlier period, as is
+evident from the following, published in the London <i>Times</i> of
+December 4, 1795: "If the young men of the present day have not much
+wit in their heads they have it at least in their <i>hats</i>." Among<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22">22</a></span> the
+pleasantries we have seen in this way are the following: "Not yours,"
+"Hands off," "No vermin," and "Rip this as you would a hot potato,"
+and other charming sallies of <i>refined</i> and <i>elegant</i> vivacity.</p>
+
+<p>But the wittiest linings are the political ones. The other day we
+observed one perfectly clean and tidy in which was written: "Avaunt!
+Guinea Pig," and on the lining of a very powdery hat that lay in the
+window of the same room were inscribed the two monosyllables
+"Off-crop." "Guinea pig" and "Off-crop" were probably local political
+distinctions of the day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i028.jpg" width="100" height="263" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">A CITIZEN OF &#39;76.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23">23</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="AFTER_THE_REVOLUTION">AFTER THE REVOLUTION.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 4.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i029.jpg" width="165" height="198" alt="" />
+<b><span class="hide">N</span>OT</b> until after the Revolution is it apparent that any attempt was
+made in Baltimore to concentrate the hatting industry into a
+legitimate business upon any extensive scale, or to separate the
+manufacturing from the retail branch of business; in fact, far into
+the new century was it the practice of those who manufactured
+extensively for the trade, to continue to keep in operation also a
+<i>retail</i> establishment.</p>
+
+<p>The general system of conducting the hat business at the time of which
+we are now writing was for the hatter to have his "back shop" in the
+rear and accessible to the "front shop," where the proprietor and his
+"prentice hand" made the needed supply for the existing or future
+small demand likely to come; for hats in those days were "built" for
+service, not for show, and in a manner quite different from those
+suited to the modern requirement of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24">24</a></span> almost a monthly change in style.
+Then the principle demand came from maturing youth, desiring to assume
+suitable dignity for entrance into manhood, by procuring a "beaver"
+which, unless he lived to a patriarchal age, might serve him during
+his natural life, and that, too, without fear of banishment from
+society for being out of the fashion.</p>
+
+<p>In the first "Baltimore City Directory," printed in the year 1796,
+appear the names of nineteen hatters; the business locations of some
+of the number, it is curious to observe, being at places hardly
+recognizable by those living at the present day.</p>
+
+<p>Gay street, prior to the year 1808, extended from the water to
+Griffith's bridge (now called Gay-street bridge), beyond which it was
+called Bridge street; German lane is now German street; East street is
+Fayette street, and the euphonious name of Cowpen alley is now
+dignified by that of Garrett street. Baltimore street was then called
+Market street, and for a long time after was often designated by
+either name.</p>
+
+<p>The following names and localities of hatters are found in the
+Baltimore City Directory published in 1796:</p>
+
+<p>
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Richard Averson</span>, German lane, between Howard and Liberty
+streets.<br /></span>
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Joseph Burnet</span>, Welcome alley, Federal Hill.</span><br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25">25</a></span>
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Peter Bond</span>, 13 Bridge street, Old Town.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">William Branson</span>, 131 Market street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Peter Beze</span>, 31 Charles street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Frederick Deems</span>, Cowpen alley.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Joseph Burneston</span>, 17 George street, Fell's Point.</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 7em;">"&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  Shop, 19 George street, Fell's Point.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">George Littig</span>, 141 Market street, Shop on "The
+Causeway."</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Arnold Livers</span>, Shop, 24 South Calvert street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Aaron Mattison</span>, Shop, East street, between Calvert
+and Gay.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">William Mockbee</span>, East street, between St. Paul's lane
+and Charles street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Gasper Morelli</span>, 36 Charles street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">John Parks</span>, Shop, 14 Light street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Jacob Rogers</span>, 29 South street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">George Smith</span>, 101 Bond street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">David Shields</span>, 14 North Gay street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">John Steiger</span>, 250 Market street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">John Underwood</span>, Alley between St. Paul's lane and
+Calvert street.</span><br />
+<span class="in2"><span class="smcap">Daniel Weaver</span>, 19 Front street.</span>
+</p>
+
+<p>Judging from localities here given, ten of this number were engaged in
+business as principals, the others were probably journeymen, working
+at their trade in the various shops in the town.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26">26</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">John Parks</span>, who did business at 14 Light street, had his residence at
+137 Market street, about the location now occupied by Clogg &amp; Son as a
+Shoe store. In the year 1802, No. 137 Market street was occupied by
+John Walraven, Hardware and Silversmith, and John and Andrew Parks are
+in the Dry-goods business, at No. 2 Market space.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">William Branson</span>, at 131 Market street, appears to have continued
+business in the same place up to the year 1810. During the years
+1800-2 the firm was Branson &amp; Son; their store was the second house
+west of Grant street, then called Public alley; the place is now
+occupied by Geo. Steinbach &amp; Son as a Toy establishment.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Aaron Mattison</span>, whose shop, in 1796, was on East street, in 1799
+associated his son with himself in business, locating at 16 North Gay
+street, next door to David Shields. In 1802 Wm. Mattison, probably the
+son, opened a store at 180 Market street; the firm continuing at 16 N.
+Gay street as Aaron Mattison &amp; Son. The next year W. Mattison appears
+at 72 Market street, following which no further record is found of
+this firm.</p>
+
+<p>No. 180 Market street was two doors east of Charles, on the north
+side, now occupied by Towner &amp; Landstreet's Rubber store. No. 72
+Market street was also on the north side, second house east from
+Lemon, now Holliday street.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27">27</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Peter Bond</span>, whose location was No. 13 Bridge street, continued as a
+hatter in the same place until the year 1806; afterwards he appears to
+have changed the character of his business, for in 1807 he is found to
+be a "storekeeper" at No. 9 Bridge street. No. 13 was on the north
+side of what is now Gay street, the seventh or eighth house beyond the
+bridge over the Falls. Peter Bond was a member of the committee of
+"Vigilance and Safety" organized by the citizens of Baltimore in the
+dark days of anxiety and trouble preceding the invasion of the city by
+the British in September, 1814.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Richard Averson</span> had his residence on German lane, between Howard and
+Eutaw streets. At that time there was but one dwelling-house on German
+lane between Hanover and Liberty streets. German lane, now German
+street, then extended only from Charles to Greene street. Mr. Averson
+kept his hat store at No. 4 County wharf, which was the lower terminus
+of South Calvert street; he had for his neighbors Gerard T. Hopkins,
+Peter Cox and George Mason, Grocers.</p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">David Shields</span> continued in business at his old locality, 14 North Gay
+street, certainly until the year 1808, and probably up to the time of
+his death in 1811. In 1819 his place is found to be occupied by
+Francis Foster as a hat store.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28">28</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Arnold Livers</span> would seem to have been the most peripatetic of hatters,
+and must have caused no little stir and comment among his
+fellow-tradesmen. Until 1801 he appears as solitary Arnold Livers,
+carrying on the hat business at 24 South Calvert street, where
+probably he had a retail "shop." In 1802 the Directory records:
+"Arnold Livers, 24 South Calvert street," and on Fayette street
+(probably his residence), also 70 Cumberland Row; Livers &amp; Atkinson,
+35 Fell street, and Livers &amp; Atkinson, 10 George street, Fell's Point.
+In 1804 Arnold Livers is still at 24 South Calvert street, also at 70
+Market space, and George Atkinson has succeeded to the firm of Livers
+&amp; Atkinson. In 1810 it is Livers &amp; Grover, 39 South, corner of Water
+street. From this time Mr. Livers disappears entirely; one may imagine
+what a commotion this evidently unsettled man of business must have
+raised during ten years of these varied and numerous changes, and
+possibly others of which the Directories give no account.</p>
+
+<p>So rapidly and effectively does time erase the evidence of former
+labors, and so quickly is the past forgotten, that one is surprised
+and disappointed at not finding more proof on record of what these
+worthy apostles of work may have done.</p>
+
+<p>Of the nineteen whose names are in the Directory of 1796, traces of
+the personal history of but two of the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29">29</a></span> number can be found: these are
+David Shields, before alluded to, and John Parks. In Griffith's
+"Annals of Baltimore," John Parks is mentioned in the year 1784 as
+subscribing ten pounds to the funds raised by citizens for the purpose
+of elevating the courthouse to admit the extension of Calvert street.
+Then the courthouse stood in the bed of Calvert street, which it
+spanned, where since has been erected and now stands Battle Monument,
+commemorating the loss of Baltimore's brave citizens, who gave their
+lives in defence of their homes against British invasion in 1814.</p>
+
+<p>Among the patriots whose names are inscribed upon this monument by a
+grateful people, desiring in such way to honor and perpetuate the
+memory of those who sacrificed themselves in the defence of their
+homes and firesides, appears that of <span class="smcap">Joseph Burneston</span>, a hatter, who
+is found in 1796 doing business at 19 George street, Fell's Point.
+Thus, while little else is known of Mr. Burneston's career, he is
+immortalized by a noble deed, and his name is handed down to coming
+generations to show what sacrifices were made in securing to us that
+freedom and comfort we now possess, sacrifices which should inspire us
+with the determination that when similar calls come we will be ready
+to answer as unhesitatingly as did this patriotic hatter.</p>
+
+<p>From the location of Mr. Burneston's place of business<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30">30</a></span> it may be
+inferred that he was only a hat-maker, having no "front shop" or
+retail establishment, but was merely a maker of hat bodies to be sold
+to retailers, who themselves finished and trimmed them ready for sale.</p>
+
+<p>Of the hatters of 1796 there is but one through whom can be
+connectedly traced Baltimore's hat industry from before the Revolution
+down to the present time; that one is <span class="smcap">Jacob Rogers</span>, whose
+long-continued business career brings personal knowledge of him down
+to a time quite within the recollection of some now living. Singularly
+enough, by this solitary instance are we able to connect hatting in
+1769 with that of 1890, for it is known that Mr. Rogers learned his
+trade with Mr. David Shields, who was in business in 1769, and engaged
+in their occupation to-day are several who were apprenticed to Mr.
+Rogers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i036.jpg" width="285" height="214" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">IN READINESS.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31">31</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="EARLY_IN_THE_XIX_CENTURY">EARLY IN THE XIX CENTURY.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 5.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i037.jpg" width="200" height="296" alt="" />
+<b><span class="hide">S</span>O</b> wonderful were the recuperative powers of the American people,
+after undergoing the trials and sacrifices consequent upon a
+protracted struggle for liberty, as to surprise the most sanguine
+advocates of self-government.</p>
+
+<p>Following the train of war came ruin and desolation, but freedom was
+the birthright of the people, who, though sorely tried by a tremendous
+outlay in blood and money, were by no means disheartened or
+discouraged, and without delay they cheerfully took in hand the task
+of renovation with the same resolute determination that characterized
+the conflict with their enemies.</p>
+
+<p>The contributions of Maryland to the country's wants during the war
+were always generous in both men and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32">32</a></span> money. Baltimore, after
+recovering from the exhaustion consequent upon her constant
+participation in the seven long years' contest for freedom, commenced
+the foundation of her future commercial greatness, and early in the
+present century she had attained a commerce greater in extent than
+that of many older seaport towns. Baltimore "clippers" were celebrated
+for their marvelous speed, and their white sails were to be seen in
+the ports of every foreign nation.</p>
+
+<p>Baltimore kept steadily advancing in population and wealth; compared
+with her rivals, she was precocious. The town was settled in the year
+1730, and its increase shows evidence of growth that must have created
+a surprise in its early days similar to that now experienced by the
+development in a few weeks of a full-fledged Western city, with its
+thousands of inhabitants, from its humble foundation of a few
+straggling hamlets. New York was settled in 1614, Boston in 1630,
+Philadelphia in 1682, each being well on in existence before Baltimore
+was born.</p>
+
+<p>At the close of the Revolutionary War the population of Baltimore was
+5000; in 1800 it was 26,614. The first United States census, taken in
+1810, places the number at 35,580, and in 1820 it had grown to be a
+prosperous commercial city of 62,738 inhabitants.</p>
+
+<p>The persistent patriotism of Baltimore throughout the Revolutionary
+War was proverbial; the strong intelligence<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33">33</a></span> of a majority of its
+citizens, though of foreign birth, gave them an intuitive knowledge of
+the distinction between right and wrong, and a fine sense of honor and
+justice prompted them to act as well as theorize, consequently their
+personal convictions as to the allegiance they owed their adopted
+country enabled the city of their choice to assume a strong and
+patriotic attitude in behalf of America's struggle, and incited them
+to act with the native element in expelling from their midst all who
+indulged in hostile acts or expressions. But one sentiment prevailed
+in Baltimore during the period of the war&mdash;that of loyalty to country.
+The courteous attention and honor paid by citizens to many of those
+who attained distinction in the war lent great assistance to Baltimore
+in quickly recovering from the damage she had sustained, and gave to
+the city a renown for hospitality which has remained by her to the
+present day.</p>
+
+<p>Washington, Lafayette, Count Rochambeau, and many others united in
+unrestricted praises of Baltimore's patriotism and liberality, and
+General Vallette, who commanded a French division of troops, declared:
+"I will never forget the happy days I have passed among you, citizens
+of Baltimore, and I beg you will believe that your remembrance will be
+forever dear to my memory."</p>
+
+<p>The famous General Greene, of Rhode Island, on his way homeward from
+the war in the South, stopped in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34">34</a></span> Baltimore and gave his impression of
+the city in 1783 as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"Baltimore is a most thriving place. Trade nourishes, and the spirit
+of building exceeds belief. Not less than three hundred houses are put
+up in a year. Ground rents are little short of what they are in
+London. The inhabitants are all men of business."</p>
+
+<p>The period from 1800-30, although interrupted by the war of 1812, when
+the city was made the immediate battle-ground, was marked by a
+wonderful growth in both commercial and industrial occupations, and,
+in common with the general prosperity of the place, hat-making also
+flourished. In 1810 Maryland is found, from the United States census
+reports, to have taken the lead in the production of fur hats. Aside
+from the custom with some retailers of making and finishing the hats
+they sold, we find in the year 1818 several firms engaged in the
+<i>manufacture</i> of hats. The products of these factories were
+distributed throughout the entire South, a section the natural
+resources of which enabled its people to easily recuperate from the
+war and quickly become large purchasers and consumers of goods which
+they did not themselves manufacture. In addition to this desirable
+field of business was the region of the "Far West," then comprising
+Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, the rapid increase of which in
+population by<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35">35</a></span> emigration greatly enlarged the demand for the products
+of Baltimore's hat industry. This being the most accessible seaport
+city, regular traffic by wagon trains was established, connecting
+Baltimore with the West, and giving to the former such superior
+advantages as to enable its enterprising merchants to secure a large
+trade, which they long and tenaciously held.</p>
+
+<p>The city directories of that period were not, as now-a-days, issued
+annually, but at intervals of three or four years, and while
+furnishing much valuable information, cannot be relied upon for
+complete correctness, the main object of the compiler being to get the
+names of house-holders and business men, while many who were
+temporarily employed, and all who were unmarried though permanently
+employed, were omitted from registration. Thus the Directory of 1818
+does not give a full list of hatters in this city at that time, for
+while it appears that there were in operation in Baltimore twenty-five
+hat establishments in the year 1818 (five or six of which were
+extensive manufactories), the Directory does not show any fair
+proportion of the number that then must have been engaged in the
+occupation of hat-making. It may be safely estimated from the extent
+and the activity of this branch of business at that time, that it gave
+employment to at least three hundred hands.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36">36</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Before the year 1810 the "taper crown" or "steeple top" had yielded to
+the uncompromising demands of fashion, and a style appeared quite
+different from that which existed at the opening of the century. It
+had so expanded its crown as to become "bell" in place of "taper," a
+change so manifestly popular that the "bell crown" since that time,
+though subject in a greater or less degree to occasional alterations
+in its proportions, has been for a dress hat the generally accepted
+style.</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrap" src="images/i042.jpg" width="170" height="230" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>In the style of 1810, Fashion, indulging as she not infrequently does,
+in a gymnastic summersault from one extreme to another, went in this
+instance quite as far as prudence would allow: the crown was about
+seven inches in height and about eight and one-quarter inches across
+the tip, with a brim about two-and-a-quarter inches wide, the hat
+being thickly napped with long beaver fur and trimmed with a wide band
+and buckle. Following the year 1810 there came a reduction in heights
+of crowns as well as in the proportions of "bell," and a modified
+style prevailed until the year 1835, when it<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37">37</a></span> again developed into an
+extreme "bell" shape with a very narrow brim, a style so utterly
+extravagant as to bring it into ridicule.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i043.jpg" width="120" height="287" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38">38</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="SOME_OLD_FIRMS">SOME OLD FIRMS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 6.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i044.jpg" width="240" height="290" alt="" />
+<b><span class="hide">O</span>F</b> the hatters engaged in business in Baltimore during the early part
+of this century, many are worthy of more than passing notice as men of
+honest character, strict in their dealings and successful in their
+business undertakings, gaining the respect of their fellow-townsmen
+and becoming honored and trusted citizens of a growing community.</p>
+
+<p>When it is known what were the social surroundings of the "old time"
+hatter in his youth, it seems a matter of surprise that such good
+fruit should spring from so unpromising soil.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39">39</a></span></p>
+
+<p>No one was supposed to be capable of conducting the retail hat
+business unless he had served his term of apprenticeship to the trade,
+and apprenticeship in those days was no trivial matter. It meant the
+surrender at an early age of home, with its parental influences&mdash;a
+most dangerous experience for the untrained youth to encounter&mdash;and
+was entered into by contract for a term of years, binding master and
+hand to its faithful execution; not merely a verbal agreement between
+parties themselves, but one solemnly executed by parent and employer,
+ratified and signed before a magistrate and made binding after all
+this legal form by the attachment of the portentous seal of the
+Orphans' Court, before the boy could be considered bounden as "an
+apprentice to the trade." This was virtually a surrender of all
+domestic control, giving to one not of "kith or kin" absolute
+guardianship of the boy. The habits and morals of the "'prentice" were
+often a secondary consideration, if not wholly neglected.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, as a class, the journeyman hatters often developed into loose,
+shiftless, migratory characters, spending their liberal wages freely,
+with no ambition beyond that of daily support; and the surprise is
+that from such a source came notably honorable men, whose lives seemed
+to contradict the whole theory of the influence of early training. To
+these worthy pioneers belongs the credit of laying a secure<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40">40</a></span>
+foundation for a trade that from humble beginnings has developed into
+one of the most prominent industries of the country, requiring
+extensive capital, liberal business capacity, and one that gives
+employment to a large, intelligent and skillful class of people.</p>
+
+<p>Among those conducting the hatting business in Baltimore at the
+opening of the present century, Mr. Jacob Rogers, from his long and
+successful business career, as well as from being the only one through
+whom it has been possible to connect this special industry as it
+existed before the Revolution, with that of the present time, ranks
+most prominently.</p>
+
+<p>What year Mr. Rogers commenced business cannot be ascertained, but as
+early as 1796, being nearly 30 years of age, he is found established
+at the corner of South and Second streets, and in the year 1844
+(almost the middle of another century), after the lapse of nearly
+fifty years, and while actively engaged in business pursuits, his life
+was suddenly ended; his funeral taking place from his residence, at
+South and Second streets, his home for more than half a century.</p>
+
+<p>About the year 1805 Mr. Rogers erected a large factory on Second
+street near Tripolet's alley (now Post-Office avenue). This building
+was about one hundred and fifty<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41">41</a></span> feet long, forty wide, and four
+stories in height. Afterwards a wing extension of considerable
+proportions was added.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i047.jpg" width="390" height="251" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">Hat shop of Jacob Rogers, built about 1805.</p>
+
+<p>This establishment was one of the "big" concerns of the day, and Mr.
+Rogers was credited with conducting, at this time, the most extensive
+and prosperous hat business in the United States.</p>
+
+<p>To-day not a vestige remains of Mr. Rogers' factory, and upon its site
+is the extensive structure of the Corn and Flour Exchange. His store,
+at the corner of South and Second streets, still remains, however,
+having been<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42">42</a></span> remodeled from that of Mr. Rogers' time, the ground-floor
+being now occupied by H.W. Totebush as a cigar store.</p>
+
+<p>In 1819 Mr. Rogers took as partner in business his eldest son, George,
+the firm becoming Jacob Rogers &amp; Son. In 1823 Mr. Rogers leased from
+the Carroll family the property No. 129 West Baltimore street, at the
+corner of Public alley (now Grant street), where a branch
+establishment was opened, both establishments being continued up to
+the time of Mr. Rogers' death, in 1844, at which time the firm was
+"Jacob Rogers &amp; Sons," William, another son, having been admitted
+about the year 1835.</p>
+
+<p>Upon the occasion of celebrating the laying of the cornerstone of the
+Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in Baltimore, July 4, 1828 (a great event
+in the annals of the city), the exhibition of trades was a most
+prominent feature of the immense procession, and none made a finer
+display than the hatters. George Rogers commanded that division, a
+description of which is thus given in the Baltimore <i>Gazette and Daily
+Advertiser</i> of July 5, 1828: "The hatters' car was drawn by four
+horses, showing the men at work in the several stages of hat-making.
+The group attracted much attention; they carried a banner with a white
+ground, and on the shield was a beaver resting on a scroll bearing the
+motto: 'With the industry of the beaver we support our rights,'
+crossed with implements of the trade, the whole supported by the
+motto: 'We cover all.'"</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43">43</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Bazil Sollers commenced business in 1799 at No. 68 Market street, a
+location on the north side of the street, four doors east of what is
+now Holliday street. In 1803 he removed to No. 22 Market street, also
+on the north side, four doors west of Harrison street; this latter
+place was previously occupied by Brant &amp; Hobby as a hat store in 1801,
+and by Stansbury &amp; Hobby in 1802. Mr. Sollers continued in business on
+Market street until the year 1831, when he removed to North Gay, No.
+15, on the northwest corner of Front street. His factory was on East,
+now Fayette street, three doors east of Lemon street. Mr. Sollers
+continued in the manufacturing business until about the year 1840.</p>
+
+<p>James Gould &amp; Co. started hat-manufacturing at No. 3 Water street in
+the year 1802. Water street at that time was numbered from Calvert to
+South street, subsequently from South to Calvert, and lately
+renumbered as formerly. No. 3, the second building from Calvert, is
+now occupied by J.E. Warner &amp; Co., commission merchants. In 1807
+Joseph Cox succeeded to the business of James Gould &amp; Co., and kept a
+retail store on the corner of South and Water streets. Mr. Cox had the
+reputation of making a superior class of hats, excelled by no
+manufacturer in the country, selling at both wholesale and retail.
+Requiring more extensive accommodations, he<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44">44</a></span> located his factory on
+the corner of Little Water and Calvert streets, where now stands the
+large warehouse of Keen &amp; Hagerty, tinware manufacturers. In 1829,
+disposing of his hat business to Boston &amp; Elder, he associated with
+himself his son James, the firm becoming "James Cox &amp; Son, dealers in
+hatters' furs and wools," at No. 1 South Liberty street. In latter
+years, the members of this firm having acquired a competency, retired
+from business.</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Pearson was established as a hat manufacturer in 1809, having
+his shop on Green, now Exeter street, Old Town. He changed his
+business in the year 1824 to that of dealer in furs, for which
+Baltimore in early days was a good market, the <i>catch</i> of the trappers
+of the Alleghanies and of the pioneers of the new West finding their
+way to Baltimore, and the otter and muskrat of lower Maryland,
+Virginia and North Carolina also coming in large quantities to this
+market. The fur business of Baltimore was then of sufficient
+importance for Jacob Astor to make Mr. Pearson his representative
+agent. In latter years the firm became Joseph Pearson &amp; Son, dealers
+in hatters' furs and trimmings, at 260 Baltimore street. All the
+members of this firm being dead, Edward Connolly, who was in their
+employ, succeeded to the business, afterwards changing it to a general
+hat-jobbing business, which is still conducted by Edward Connolly &amp;
+Son at 207 W. Baltimore street.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45">45</a></span></p>
+
+<p>John Amos was a well known and respected hatter of Old Town, who
+commenced business as early as the year 1809 at No. 39 Bridge street,
+on the north side of the present North Gay street, between High and
+Exeter. His "back shop," or factory, was on Hillen street. He
+continued business during the period of thirty years at the same
+place, and died in 1847 at the age of 67.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i051.jpg" width="70" height="114" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46">46</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="PATRIARCHS_OF_THE_TRADE">PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 7.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i052.jpg" width="225" height="226" alt="" />
+<br /><b><span class="hide">G</span>LEANING</b> more closely in the historic field of the early part of the
+century, others are found whose enterprise contributed largely to this
+important industry of Baltimore, and whose successful prosecution of
+the hat business maintained the credit and position won by their
+predecessors.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1814 Runyon Harris erected a large hat factory on Fish,
+now Saratoga street. This building was about one hundred and
+twenty-five feet in length and two and a half stories high.</p>
+
+<p>The business of this establishment was carried on under the style of
+"The Baltimore Hat Manufacturing Co." While evidence cannot be given,
+it may be inferred that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47">47</a></span> Mr. Harris must, before this date, have been
+engaged elsewhere in the city in the manufacture of hats, as others
+entering into business about this time are known to have been
+apprenticed to Mr. Harris.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i053.jpg" width="325" height="224" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">Ye old Hat Factory of Runyon Harris Balto. Erected in 1814</p>
+
+<p>In 1817 Aaron Clap &amp; Co. commenced the retail hat business at 146
+Market street, on the north side, five doors east of St. Paul street,
+and probably identical with the present 104 East Baltimore street,
+recently occupied by John Murphy &amp; Co., Publishers.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Clap &amp; Co. having secured a good location by purchasing the
+factory of Runyon Harris, engaged extensively in the manufacturing
+business, which was continued<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48">48</a></span> by their several successors down to the
+year 1864, when results of the civil war (so disastrous to Maryland's
+manufacturing industries) caused its temporary abandonment, but the
+enterprise established by Messrs. Aaron Clap &amp; Co. has, by an unbroken
+series of firms, continued to the present time, being now represented
+by Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co.</p>
+
+<p>In 1817 Henry Lamson kept a first-class retail hat store at No. 5
+South Calvert street, the locality now the southwest corner of Carroll
+Hall building. In 1822 the firm of Aaron Clap &amp; Co. and Henry Lamson
+consolidated, making the firm Lamson &amp; Clap, and continuing the retail
+business at No. 5 South Calvert street, in connection with
+manufactory. Mr. Lamson in 1827 went to the West Indies in search of
+health, and died on the island of St. Thomas. He was a gentleman of
+much social refinement, and was held in high esteem as a citizen.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1827 the firm of Lamson &amp; Clap was dissolved by the death
+of Mr. Lamson, and Mr. Wm. P. Cole was admitted, the firm becoming
+Clap, Cole &amp; Co. After the death of Mr. Clap, which occurred in 1834,
+his widow's interest was retained and the firm was changed to Cole,
+Clap &amp; Co.; following this, Mrs. Clap retired and Mr. Hugh J. Morrison
+became a member of the firm, which was made Cole &amp; Morrison.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49">49</a></span> In 1842
+Thaddeus and William G. Craft became interested, the firm becoming
+Cole, Craft &amp; Co., still continuing business at No. 5 South Calvert
+street (the same place established by Lamson &amp; Clap). About the year
+1850 the firm removed to No. 218 West Baltimore street, now 10 East
+Baltimore street and occupied by Likes, Berwanger &amp; Co., clothiers. In
+1853 Mr. Cole associated with him his son, William R., the firm being
+Wm. P. Cole &amp; Son. In 1857 the firm moved to No. 274 West Baltimore
+street, present number 46, where they remained until the year 1867,
+removing then to occupy the building which they had erected at No. 30
+Sharp street, now 24 Hopkins Place.</p>
+
+<p>In 1861 Mr. Wm. T. Brigham was admitted to the firm, it then becoming
+Wm. R. Cole &amp; Co. In 1870 the firm name was again changed to Cole,
+Brigham &amp; Co., which was dissolved in 1877 by the withdrawal of Mr.
+Brigham, in which year Mr. Brigham associated with Robert D. Hopkins
+as the firm of Brigham &amp; Hopkins, locating at No. 128 West Fayette
+street (present number 211), which firm of Brigham &amp; Hopkins continued
+until 1887, when it was changed to Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co. by the
+admission of Isaac H. Francis.</p>
+
+<p>In 1884 Brigham &amp; Hopkins erected the large and handsome building at
+the corner of German and Paca<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50">50</a></span> streets, which the present firm
+continue to occupy as a factory and salesroom.</p>
+
+<p>In 1810 Andrew Ruff is found at No. 72 Camden street, likely to have
+been his place of residence. Whether he was then engaged in business
+is not known, but in 1817 he had a factory on Davis street between
+Lexington and Saratoga streets, the site now occupied by the stables
+of the Adams Express Company. About the year 1822 he established a
+retail store at 158 Baltimore street. In 1842 the firm was Andrew Ruff
+&amp; Co., at 194 Baltimore street. At one time Mr. Ruff was foreman in
+the manufacturing establishment of Clap &amp; Cole.</p>
+
+<p>Henry Jenkins, in 1822, was a hat manufacturer at 28 Green street, Old
+Town, and from 1824 to 1830 Messrs. H. &amp; W. S. Jenkins kept a hat store
+on the northeast corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets, where
+afterwards was erected the banking-house of Josiah Lee &amp; Co., now
+occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company as a ticket office.</p>
+
+<p>Joseph Branson was a hatter in the year 1827 at 182 Market street. He
+was a son of William Branson, who was engaged in the same business
+from 1796 to 1817. Joseph Branson ranked as the fashionable hatter of
+that time. He was a man of considerable military distinction in the
+State. He raised and commanded the famous<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51">51</a></span> Marion Rifles, a superb
+military organization of the city, to which was accorded the honor of
+receiving General Lafayette upon his visit to Baltimore in 1824.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Branson is said to have been the first to introduce a thorough
+system of military tactics in Baltimore. He served several terms in
+the City Council, and was an active, enterprising citizen. In the year
+1831 he went out of business and took the position of inspector in the
+custom house.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Charles Grimes was a well-known hatter who commenced business at
+42 Baltimore street about 1823. In 1831 he removed to No. 29 North
+Gay, near High street. He evidently had a love for his first choice,
+as in 1833 he is found again at 42 Baltimore street. Mr. Grimes
+retired from business as early as the year 1839. He was extremely fond
+of the Maryland sport of duck shooting, in which he was associated
+with many of Baltimore's sporting gentlemen. In 1853 he removed to
+Philadelphia, enjoying a life of comfort and ease. He was an exemplary
+man in all the relations of life, and died in the year 1868 at the
+advanced age of 73.</p>
+
+<p>In 1810 John Petticord was learning his trade with Jacob Rogers, being
+then fourteen years of age. His honesty and faithfulness were
+appreciated by his employer, and in 1814 he occupied the position of
+foreman in Mr.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52">52</a></span> Rogers' factory. After continuing in that capacity for
+some time he commenced the manufacture of hats on his own account,
+continuing it until the feebleness of age compelled him to abandon it.</p>
+
+<p>Thomas Sappington was a hat manufacturer who, in the year 1831, was
+located at No. 120 Baltimore street, which at that time was at or near
+the present number, 116 East Baltimore street. He had his factory on
+North street near Saratoga. It is known that he was in business for a
+number of years, but what year he commenced and when he abandoned
+business cannot be ascertained.</p>
+
+<p>Victor Sarata was a Frenchman who located in Baltimore as early as
+1838. He opened a retail store at 259 Baltimore street, and was the
+first one to introduce the silk hat in this city.</p>
+
+<p>Wm. H. Keevil was a hatter doing a retail business in 1842 at 66-1/2
+Baltimore street. He was evidently of the "buncombe" style, and
+conducted his business in a sensational manner, advertising
+extensively and brazenly, as will be seen from the following quotation
+from an advertisement of his printed in 1842:</p>
+
+<p>"Who talks of importing hats from England while <i>Keevil</i> is in the
+field? Pshaw! 'Tis sheer folly. For while he continues to sell his
+beautiful hats at his present<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53">53</a></span> reduced prices, any such speculation as
+importing hats from Europe will be 'no go' or 'non-effect.' The
+hatters, therefore, on the other side of the Atlantic had better keep
+their hats at home, as it would be quite as profitable for them to
+send 'wooden nutmegs' and 'sawdust hams' to New England, or coals to
+Newcastle, as hats to Baltimore to compete with the well-known
+<i>Keevil</i>."</p>
+
+<p>His business existence could not have been of long continuance, as in
+1850 his name is not found in the City Directory.</p>
+
+<p>At the close of the first half of this century there were several who
+afterwards attained prominence both in business and a public capacity,
+among whom were Joshua Vansant, Samuel Hindes, Charles Towson, George
+K. Quail, James L. McPhail, P.E. Riley, John Boston, Ephraim Price,
+Robert Q. Taylor, Lewis Raymo and others, the last two mentioned being
+the only ones now living.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i059.jpg" width="120" height="32" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54">54</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="JACOB_ROGERS">JACOB ROGERS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 8.</p>
+
+<div class="i060">
+<div class="i060a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="i060b">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="i060c">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="i060d">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">T</span>O</b> one man more than any other belongs the credit of establishing upon
+an extensive scale the hat business, which in the early part of the
+present century was so prominently identified with the growth and
+prosperity of Baltimore; that person was Jacob Rogers, whose business
+career in his native city extended over a period of more than fifty
+years, fortified by a reputation that brought the universal respect of
+his fellow-citizens, and leaving a worthy example for those succeeding
+him.</p>
+
+<p>Jacob Rogers was born in the year 1766. As in those days boys were
+apprenticed at an early age, it may be supposed that when he was
+fifteen years old he was in the employ of David Shields, with whom it
+is known he served his term of apprenticeship at hat-making. In 1796
+Mr. Rogers is found the proprietor of a retail hat store at the corner
+of South and Second streets. He was an enterprising man, and succeeded
+in building up a business of large proportions. He died in 1842,
+possessed of a fortune amounting to three hundred thousand dollars,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55">55</a></span> a
+large accumulation for those days. In 1805 he built an extensive
+factory on Second street, near Tripolet's alley&mdash;now Post-Office
+avenue&mdash;and adjoining the old Lutheran Church, the spire of which then
+contained the Town Clock; these old landmarks are now all removed and
+the location occupied by the stately edifice of the Corn and Flour
+Exchange. The number of hands employed by Mr. Rogers at his factory
+and "front shop" was about one hundred, including apprentices. His
+"plank" shop comprised five batteries, aggregating thirty men; in the
+finishing shop he employed about twenty-five, and he had usually bound
+to him as many as fifteen apprentices. This would appear to be a large
+force for a hat-manufacturing concern of that early period, but it
+must be remembered that the manual labor bestowed upon one hat then
+was more than that on some thousands in the present day of
+labor-saving machinery.</p>
+
+</div><!--i060-->
+
+<p>That Mr. Rogers was a strict disciplinarian and an excellent business
+man is proven by the perfect control he exercised over the large
+number in his employ, whom he ruled with a firm hand yet with a wise
+judgment, and while rebuking any disobedience of orders, was feared,
+respected and loved for his strict sense of honor, justice and
+propriety.</p>
+
+<p>He boarded under his own roof nearly all his apprentices to the trade;
+a few were privileged to lodge at home,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56">56</a></span> while their board was
+supplied by their master, as one of the stipulations of their
+indenture; so Jacob Rogers' immediate family, which was not a small
+one, was greatly enlarged by the addition of fifteen to twenty wild,
+untamed "prentice" boys. What would have been the domestic condition
+of such a family without the ruling influence of a stern master only
+those can imagine who know the kind of material of which the
+journeyman hatter of those days was composed. He was a veritable
+tramp.</p>
+
+<p>As a rule with Mr. Rogers, chastisement immediately followed
+misconduct; with him the present was the opportune time for
+punishment, and whether in the home, the shop, or on the street, any
+of the shop-boys were found doing wrong, correction was given in the
+then customary way&mdash;by flogging.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Rogers was a conscientious member of the Methodist Church, and
+maintained a high character for honesty and probity, and recognized as
+a fair man in all his dealings.</p>
+
+<p>A good story is told to show how, though driving a keen bargain, he
+was careful not to misrepresent. In his store one day he was divulging
+to a friend some of the secrets of his business, showing how
+successfully a <i>prime</i> beaver-napped hat could be made with the
+slightest sprinkling of the valuable beaver fur, a trick just then<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57">57</a></span>
+discovered. Soon after a purchaser appeared inquiring for a
+beaver-napped hat. Mr. Rogers expatiated upon the marvelous beauty of
+the "tile," and his customer put the question: "Mr. Rogers, is this a
+genuine beaver hat?" "My dear sir," said Mr. Rogers, "I pledge my word
+that the best part of the material in that hat is pure beaver." The
+hat was bought and paid for and the customer departed, well satisfied
+with his purchase. At once Mr. Rogers was catechised by his friend,
+who had earnestly watched the trade, remarking: "Why, Mr. Rogers, did
+you not tell me that there was but a trifling amount of beaver in that
+hat you just sold, and you, a church member, so misrepresent
+to a customer?" "My friend," replied Mr. Rogers, "I made no
+misrepresentation, I told my customer the honest fact, that the <i>best</i>
+part of the material of which the hat was made was pure beaver, and so
+it was."</p>
+
+<p>The journeyman hatter of Mr. Rogers' time was a character, migratory
+in his ways, his general habit being to work for a short time&mdash;a
+season or less in one place&mdash;then, from desire of change or lack of
+employment, to seek for pastures new. As railroad travel was not then
+thought of, and stage-coach conveyance a luxury at most times beyond
+the pecuniary means of the itinerant hatter, the journey was usually
+made on foot.</p>
+
+<p>Application for work could not be made to the proprietor, but must
+necessarily go through the medium of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58">58</a></span> an employee. Frequently an
+applicant in straitened circumstances who failed to be "shopped,"
+appealed to his more fortunate fellow-workmen to relieve his destitute
+condition, who always made a ready and hearty response by providing
+for his immediate wants and starting him again on his pilgrimage with
+a light heart and a wish for good luck. This constant wandering habit
+frequently brought the hatter of those days to a condition of abject
+dependence, and supplied a large proportion of that vagrant class now
+denominated "tramps." It was often the boast of these hatter "tramps"
+that in the period of a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59">59</a></span> year or two they would make the tour of the
+entire country from Portland, Maine, to Baltimore in the South, and
+Pittsburg, then "far west," "shopping" awhile in some town or village
+and then marching on in search of another chance.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i064.jpg" width="375" height="262" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">Hat Store of Jacob Rogers.</p>
+
+<p>In the "season" when labor was in demand good workmen did not apply in
+vain, but most hat factories were subject to dull times between
+seasons, necessitating a reduction in the number of hands. This
+general plan was productive of irregularity in the habits of the
+workman, allowing him to have no settled place of habitation.
+Baltimore, however, was an exception to the general rule, her
+factories providing constant employment for her workmen, thus
+encouraging a deeper interest in their vocation.</p>
+
+<p>It is said that in business Mr. Rogers never knew what dull times
+were; he kept his hat factory in active operation all the year round.
+This prosperous condition of things had the tendency to make the
+Baltimore hatter somewhat of a permanent settler, thereby identifying
+him more closely with the interests and the growth of his own city,
+and causing him to become personally concerned in its success and
+prosperity; an experience quite different from that of his
+fellow-workmen elsewhere, who were constantly changing their
+habitation. Thus the Baltimore hatter was reared under conditions
+favorable to his improvement by serving his apprentice days under<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60">60</a></span> the
+influence of a conscientious master. The effect of this early training
+was manifest in his character as a good citizen ever after, often
+securing for him in the place of his birth positions of trust, and
+many of Baltimore's best citizens, and some of her noblest men,
+received their early training in the model hat-shops of their own
+city.</p>
+
+<p>With the growing trade of the city, the business of hat-making kept
+steady pace. The prosperity of the South, and the constant development
+of the West, provided Baltimore with a wide outlet for her products.
+Through the business channels of this young and enterprising city
+flowed a large proportion of the products of the mills and factories
+of New England, assisting materially the business activity of the
+place, and it is quite likely that the interests of Baltimore and New
+England at that time being so connected is an explanation why so many
+New England people migrated to Baltimore in those days of her
+prosperity.</p>
+
+<p>With characteristic energy and enterprise, Mr. Rogers extended his
+business, pushing forward into new fields as the settlement of the
+country advanced. Besides a large trade with the entire South, the
+wagon-trains, which were the expresses of those days, distributed his
+goods throughout the States of Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee,
+thus securing to him at that time the most extensive business in hat
+manufacture conducted by any one firm in the United States.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61">61</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Fortune favored Mr. Rogers, and during his whole business career there
+was no interruption in the progress of this industry in Baltimore. Not
+until his death, or after the middle of the century, was there any
+noticeable decline.</p>
+
+<p>The eventful business career and commendable private life of Mr.
+Rogers ended on the 10th of April, 1842, he falling suddenly in the
+old Light-street Methodist Church while attending divine service. The
+Baltimore <i>Sun</i> of April 11, 1842, mentioned his death as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"The illness of Jacob Rogers, Esq., occurred in Light-street Church;
+he fell in a faint from which he died an hour after at his residence,
+No. 9 South street. He was well known and respected as one of the most
+worthy, industrious, and valuable of our citizens of Baltimore."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i067.jpg" width="285" height="180" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">WESTERN EXPRESS, 1825.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62">62</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="OLD_METHODS">OLD METHODS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 9.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i068.jpg" width="160" height="266" alt="" /><br />
+<b><span class="hide">J</span>UST</b> as the first half of the present century was expiring, an
+invention was made that at once revolutionized the whole system of
+hat-making. A machine was patented in the United States by H. A. Wells,
+in the year 1846, which successfully accomplished the work of making
+or forming a hat in a very short space of time, which heretofore had
+required the slow, tedious and skillful labor of the hands, thus so
+equally dividing the century that the first half may be practically
+considered as following the <i>old</i> method, and the latter half as using
+the <i>new</i> method.</p>
+
+<p>So remarkable was this invention that its introduction quickly
+produced a change in the character of hats by greatly reducing their
+cost of manufacture, together with a change in the manner of
+conducting the hat business.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63">63</a></span> To show up the <i>old</i> method of
+hat-making that existed prior to the use of the Wells machine is the
+purpose of this chapter, the greater part of the information here
+given having been gained from an article in "Sears' Guide to
+Knowledge," published in 1844.</p>
+
+<p>Let us enter a Baltimore hat "shop" of fifty years ago and watch the
+making of a single hat. Fur and wool constitute the main ingredients
+of which hats have always been made, because possessing those
+qualities necessary for the process of "felting," the finer and better
+class of hats being made of the furs of such animals as the beaver,
+bear, marten, minx, hare and rabbit. The skins of these animals after
+being stripped from the body are called "pelts"; when the inner side
+has undergone a process of tanning the skins obtain the name of "furs"
+in a restricted sense, and the term is still more restricted when
+applied to the hairy coating cut from the skin.</p>
+
+<p>The furs to which the old-time hatter gave preference were the beaver,
+the muskrat, the nutria, the hare and the rabbit, of which the first
+was by far the most valuable. These animals all have two kinds of hair
+on their skins, the innermost of which is short and fine as down, the
+outermost, thick, long and more sparing, the former being of much use,
+the latter of no value to the hatter. After receiving the "skins" or
+"pelts," which are greasy and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64">64</a></span> dirty, they are first cleaned with soap
+and water, then carried to the "pulling-room," where women are
+employed in pulling out the coarse outer hairs from the skins, which
+is done by means of a knife acting against the thumb, the fingers and
+thumb being guarded by a short leather shield. The skins are then
+taken and the fur cut or "cropped" from them, which is done by men
+dexterously using a sharp knife, formed with a round blade, such as is
+used now-a-days in the kitchen as a "chopping knife." By keeping this
+knife constantly moving across the skin the fur is taken off or
+separated without injury to the skin, which is to be tanned for
+leather or consigned to the glue factory. The cutting of furs,
+however, had become before 1844 a business in some measure conducted
+by itself, and a machine had been invented to separate the fur from
+the skin, which, though it might be considered now a simple affair,
+was at that time looked upon as a wonder.</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrapr" src="images/i070.jpg" width="150" height="250" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>We have said the women in the "pulling-room" cut, tear, or pull out
+the long, coarse hairs from the pelts, and<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65">65</a></span> that these hairs are
+useless to the hatter. But it is impossible completely to separate the
+coarse from the fine fur by these means, and therefore the fur, when
+cropped from the pelt, is conveyed to the "blowing-room," finally to
+effect the separation. The action of the blowing machine is
+exceedingly beautiful, and may perhaps be understood without a minute
+detail of its mechanism. A quantity of beaver or any other fur is
+introduced at one end near a compartment in which a vane or fly is
+revolving with a velocity of nearly two thousand rotations in a
+minute. We all know, even from a simple example of a lady's fan, that
+a body in motion gives rise to a wind or draught, and when the motion
+is so rapid as is here indicated, the current becomes very powerful.
+This current of air propels the fur along a hollow trunk to the other
+end of the machine, and in so doing produces an effect which is as
+remarkable as valuable. All the coarse and comparatively valueless fur
+is deposited on a cloth stretched along the trunk, while the more
+delicate filaments are blown into a receptacle at the other end.
+Nothing but a very ingenious arrangement of mechanism could produce a
+separation so complete as is here effected; but the principle of
+action is not hard to understand. If there were no atmosphere, or if
+an inclosed place were exhausted of air, a guinea and a feather,
+however unequal<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66">66</a></span> in weight, would fall to the ground with equal
+velocity, but in ordinary circumstances the guinea would obviously
+fall more quickly than the feather, because the resistance of the air
+bears a much larger ratio to the weight of the feather than that of
+the guinea. As the resistance of air to a moving body acts more
+forcibly on a light than a heavy substance, so likewise does air when
+in motion and acting as a moving force. When particles of sand or
+gravel are driven by the wind, the lightest particles go the greatest
+distance. So it is with the two kinds of fur in the "blowing machine,"
+those fibers which are finest and lightest are driven to the remote
+end of the machine.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i072.jpg" width="320" height="170" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">BLOWING ENGINE.</p>
+
+<p>The "body," or "foundation," of a good beaver hat is generally made of
+eight parts rabbit's fur, three parts<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67">67</a></span> Saxony wool, and one part of
+llama, vicunia, or "red" wool. A sufficient quantity of these for one
+hat (about two and a half ounces) is weighed out and placed in the
+hands of the "bower." On entering the "bowing-room" a peculiar
+twanging noise indicates to the visitor that a stretched cord is in
+rapid vibration, and the management of this cord by the workman is
+seen to be one of the many operations in hatting wherein success
+depends exclusively on skillful manipulation. A bench extends along
+the front of the room beneath a range of windows, and each "bower" has
+a little compartment appropriated to himself. The bow is an ashen
+staff from five to seven feet in length, having a strong cord of
+catgut stretched over bridges at the two ends. The bow is suspended in
+the middle by a string from the ceiling, whereby it hangs nearly on a
+level with the work-bench, and the workman thus proceeds: The wool and
+coarse fur, first separately and afterwards<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68">68</a></span> together, are laid on the
+bench, and the bower, grasping the staff of the bow with his left hand
+and plucking the cord with his right hand by means of a small piece of
+wood, causes the cord to vibrate rapidly against the fur and wool. By
+repeating this process for a certain time, all the original clots or
+assemblages of filaments are perfectly opened and dilated, and the
+fibers, flying upwards when struck, are, by the dexterity of the
+workman, made to fall in nearly equal thickness on the bench,
+presenting a very light and soft layer of material. Simple as this
+operation appears to a stranger, years of practice are required for
+the attainment of proficiency in it.</p>
+
+<div>
+<img class="wrapr" src="images/i073.jpg" width="220" height="240" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The bowed materials for one hat are divided into two portions, each of
+which is separately pressed with a light wicker frame; the light mass
+of fluffy fur, after being pressed with the frame, is covered with a
+wet cloth, over which is placed a piece of oil-cloth or leather called
+a "hardening skin," until, by the pressure of the hands backwards and
+forwards all over the skin, the fibers are brought closer together,
+the points of contact multiplied, the serrations made to link
+together, and a slightly coherent fabric formed. These two halves, or
+"batts," are then formed into a hollow cap by a singular contrivance.
+One of the "batts," nearly triangular in shape, and measuring about
+half a yard in each direction, being<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69">69</a></span> laid flat, a triangular piece of
+paper, smaller in size than the batt, is laid upon it, and the edges
+of the batt, being folded over the paper, meet at the upper surface,
+and thus form a complete envelope to the paper. The two meeting edges
+are soon made to combine by gentle pressure and friction, and another
+"batt" is laid on the other in a similar way, but having the meeting
+edges on the opposite side of the paper. The double layer, with the
+enclosed paper, are then folded up in a damp cloth and worked by hand;
+the workman pressing and bending, rolling and unrolling, until the
+fibers of the inner layer are incorporated with those of the outer. It
+is evident that were there not a piece of paper interposed, the whole
+of the fibers would be worked together into a mass by the opposite
+sides felting together, but the paper maintains a vacancy within, and
+when withdrawn at the edge which is to form the opening of the cap, it
+leaves the felted material in such a form as to constitute, when
+stretched open, a hollow cone.</p>
+
+<p>The "battery" is a large kettle or boiler open at the top, having a
+fire beneath it, and eight planks ascending obliquely from the margin,
+so as to form a sort of octagonal work-bench, five or six feet in
+diameter, at which eight men may work; the planks are made of lead
+near the kettle, and of mahogany at the outer part, and at each plank
+a workman operates on a conical<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70">70</a></span> cap until the process of felting or
+"planking" is completed. The "battery" contains hot water slightly
+acidulated with sulphuric acid. The cap is dipped into the hot liquor,
+laid on one of the planks, and subjected to a long felting process; it
+is rolled and unrolled, twisted, pressed, and rubbed with a piece of
+leather or wood tied to the workman's hand, and rolled with a
+rolling-pin. From time to time the cap is examined, to ascertain
+whether the thickness is sufficient in every part, and if any
+defective places appear, they are wet with a brush dipped in the hot
+liquor, and a few additional fibers are worked in. Considerable skill
+is required in order to preserve such an additional thickness of
+material at one part as shall suffice for the brim of the hat. When
+this felting process has been continued about two hours, it is found
+that the heat, moisture, pressure and friction have reduced the cap to
+one-half its former dimensions, the thickness being increased in a
+proportionate degree, assuming a conical shape.</p>
+
+<p>The "cap" is then taken to the "water-proofing" or "stiffening" room,
+where the odor of gum, resins and spirits gives some intimation of the
+materials employed. Gum-lac, gum-sandrach, gum-mastic, resin,
+frankincense, copal, caoutchouc, spirits of wine and spirits of
+turpentine, are the ingredients (all of a very inflammable nature) of
+which the water-proofing is made. This is<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71">71</a></span> laid on the cap by means of
+a brush, and the workman exercises his skill in regulating the
+quantity at different parts, since the strength of the future brim and
+crown depends much on this process.</p>
+
+<p>After another heating in a hot room, called "stoving," by which the
+spirit is evaporated, the exterior of the cap is scoured with a weak
+alkali, to remove a portion of the gummy coating, and thereby enable
+the beaver fur with which it is to be "napped" or "coated," to adhere.</p>
+
+<p>A layer of beaver fur is spread, and, by means of the "hardening
+stick," is pressed and worked into a very delicate and light felt,
+just coherent enough to hold together. This layer, which is called a
+"ruffing" or "roughing," is a little larger than the cap-body, and to
+unite the two, another visit to the "battery" is necessary. The cap
+being softened by immersion in the hot liquor, the "ruffing" is laid
+on it, and patted down with a wet brush, a narrow strip of beaver
+being laid round the inside of the cap to form the underside of the
+future brim. The beavered cap is then wrapped in a woolen cloth,
+immersed frequently in the hot liquor, and rolled on the plank for the
+space of two hours. The effect of this rubbing and rolling is very
+curious, and may be illustrated in a simple manner: if a few fibers of
+beaver fur be laid on a piece of broadcloth, covered with tissue
+paper, and rubbed gently with the finger, they will penetrate through<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72">72</a></span>
+the cloth and appear on the opposite side. So, likewise, in the
+process of "ruffing," each fiber is set in motion from root to point,
+and enters the substance of the felt cap. The hairs proceed in a
+pretty straight course, and just enter the felt, with the substance of
+which they form an intimate union. But if the rolling and pressing
+were continued too long, the hairs would actually pass through the
+felt, and be seen on the inside instead of the outside of the cap; the
+workman therefore exercises his judgment in continuing the process
+only so long as is sufficient to secure the hairs in the felt firm
+enough to bear the action of the hat-brush in after-days.</p>
+
+<p>At length the cap is to assume somewhat the shape of a hat, before it
+finally leaves the "battery." The workman first turns up the edge of
+the cap to the depth of about an inch and a half; and then draws the
+peak of the cap back through the centre or axis so far as not to take
+out the first fold, but to produce an inner fold of the same depth.
+The point being turned back again, produces a third fold, and thus the
+workman proceeds, till the whole hat has acquired the appearance of a
+flattish circular piece, consisting of a number of concentric folds or
+rings, with the peak in the centre. This is laid on the "plank," where
+the workman, keeping the substance hot and wet, pulls, presses and
+rubs the centre until he has formed a smooth flat portion equal to the
+intended crown of the hat. He<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73">73</a></span> then takes a cylindrical block, on the
+flat end of which he applies the flattened central portion of the
+felt, and by holding a string down the curved sides of the block, he
+causes the surrounding portion of the felt to assume the figure of the
+block. The part which is to form the brim now appears a puckered
+appendage round the edge of the hat; but this puckered edge is soon
+brought to a tolerably flat shape by pulling and pressing.</p>
+
+<p>The workman then raises and opens the nap of the hat by means of a
+peculiar sort of comb, and then shears the hairs to a regular length.
+Connoisseurs in these matters are learned as to the respective merits
+of "short naps" and "long naps," and by the shearer's dexterity these
+are regulated. The visitor recognizes nothing difficult in this
+operation, yet years of practice are necessary for the attainment of
+skill therein, since the workman determines the length of the nap by
+the peculiar position in which the long, light shears are held. A nap
+or pile as fine as that of velvet can be produced by this operation.</p>
+
+<p>However carefully the process of "blowing" may be performed in order
+to separate the coarse fibers of the fur from the more delicate, there
+are always a few of the former left mingled with the latter, and these
+are worked up during the subsequent processes. Women are employed,
+therefore, after the hats have left the "finishers,"<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74">74</a></span> in picking out
+with small tweezers such defective fibers as may present themselves on
+the surface of the hats.</p>
+
+<p>Lastly, the hat is placed in the hands of a workman whose employment
+requires an accurate eye and a fertile taste in matters of shape and
+form: this is the "shaper." He has to study the style and fashion of
+the day, as well as the wishes of individual purchasers, by giving to
+the brim of the hat such curvatures in various directions as may be
+needed. Simple as this may appear, the workman who possesses the
+requisite skill to give the acceptable curl to the brim which is to
+create the finishing touch for the hat is a desirable hand, and can
+command a high rate of wages.</p>
+
+<p>Thus, in our imaginary tour through an old-fashioned hat factory, we
+have seen the many skillful manipulations then required to make a hat,
+which, when compared with modern processes, awaken in our minds a
+sense of wonder at the change.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i080.jpg" width="140" height="133" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75">75</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="JOHN_PETTICORD">JOHN PETTICORD.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 10.</p>
+
+<div class="i060">
+<div class="i060a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="i060b">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="i060c">&nbsp;</div>
+<div class="i060d">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">T</span>HE</b> subject of this article, who died in Baltimore, October 11th,
+1887, in the 92d year of his age, was probably the oldest hatter in
+the United States. His identity with Baltimore hatting all the days of
+his life made him prominent in connection with that industry. Born but
+a few years after the thirteen states had by compact formed a
+republic, Washington being President of the United States, Mr.
+Petticord lived to see in office every President down to that of
+President Cleveland.</p>
+
+<p>When he was a young man of business, savages roamed and tented where
+beautiful and populous cities with all the advantages of refinement
+and art now exist.</p>
+
+<p>During his lifetime the population of his own city changed from 25,000
+to 400,000, and the United States extended its area of territory from
+the limits of the thirteen original states, which was 367,000 square
+miles, to upwards of 3,000,000, increasing its population from
+5,000,000 to 60,000,000.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76">76</a></span></p>
+
+<p>When John Petticord first made hats, the "Cocked" or "Continental"
+style was in vogue. No more curious museum could be collected than
+specimens of the various freaks of fashion in hats that appeared
+during the lifetime of this old hatter.</p>
+
+<p>John Petticord was born in Baltimore in 1796. At an early age he was
+apprenticed to John Amos to learn the trade of hatting; soon after
+finishing his service of apprenticeship, he secured work in the
+establishment of Jacob Rogers. He was faithful to his duties, serving
+his master with that same conscientiousness that he would have done
+for himself, soon becoming foreman of Mr. Rogers' extensive factory.
+After serving with Mr. Rogers for some years, he entered into business
+as a manufacturer on his own account, and continued until feebleness
+of age compelled him to abandon it. He was a man of quiet, simple
+habits, his chief ambition being to lead an upright life, and appear
+before God and his fellow-creatures an honest man.</p>
+
+</div><!--i060-->
+
+<p>John Petticord was exemplary in character and habits, modest and
+gentle in his disposition, pure in his faith and in his living; he had
+no enemies, and was always known as a reliable man. During his long
+career as foreman or master of the shop, he never had a quarrel or a
+serious difficulty with the many who came under his control. He<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77">77</a></span> never
+drank intoxicating beverages, although in his early days that was the
+general custom, which, with hatters, was unfortunately the universal
+habit. His manliness and strength of character were also well
+displayed by his never chewing or smoking tobacco. He was patient and
+methodical, an indefatigable worker at his trade, believing that
+undivided attention to his work was a duty he owed to others.</p>
+
+<p>John Petticord was a patriot, being one of that noble band who
+fearlessly stood and successfully resisted the British attack upon
+Baltimore in 1814. At that time he was a youth of nineteen working at
+his trade. At noon-time on the eventful September 12th, 1814, the
+"tocsin" was sounded to call to arms every able-bodied citizen to
+defend his home and fireside, and, if possible, prevent the
+destruction of their beautiful city. At the first sound of the cannon,
+which was the signal agreed upon, John Petticord left his unfinished
+noonday meal, seized his musket, and was one of the first to join the
+ranks of his company. The day was desperately hot, and a forced march
+of two miles to the battlefield brought them, dusty, tired and
+thirsty, face to face with the enemy, who was in a fresh condition and
+eager for fight. Petticord's canteen, as all others, by regulation
+orders, was filled with whiskey, but he, being a temperance man, would
+not assuage his<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78">78</a></span> thirst with grog. Famishing for water, he obtained
+permission from his superior officer to go a short distance away,
+where a "squatter" was dispensing cider for the comfort of the
+soldiers and profit to himself. Petticord, emptying his canteen of
+whiskey on the ground, had it filled with hard cider, and quenched his
+thirst with a good round drink. That hard cider, together with heat
+and exhaustion, came about as near ending the earthly career of John
+Petticord as did the storm of enemy's bullets which whizzed about his
+head. On that trying day the bravery of this man was well tested. He
+stood manfully in position while his comrade on the right fell dead at
+his feet, and the one on his left was removed wounded from the
+battlefield, he himself receiving a slight wound on the finger. The
+riderless white horse of the British General Ross, who had just been
+killed, pranced by in front of the rank in which Mr. Petticord was
+stationed, and the hearts of himself and comrades beat lightly with
+hope of success, as the shouts of the Americans echoed along the line,
+announced the death of the invaders' great leader, encouraging a grand
+rally that gave them the victory of the day. Mr. Petticord, though a
+brave soldier in the time of his country's need, was a man of peace,
+and, upon the ending of hostilities with Great Britain, resigned his
+position in the eighth company of the 27th Regiment of Maryland
+militia.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79">79</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Baltimore always honors her noble band of brave defenders, and upon
+each anniversary of the 12th of September a public celebration is
+given, and the Old Defenders occupy the post of honor. It is but a few
+years since they marched with lively and steady step to martial music;
+later on, age required their appearing in carriages in the procession,
+and each year, at the annual dinner given by the city, their number
+has grown less and less.</p>
+
+<p>The present year but three were on earth to answer to the "roll call,"
+and but one able to appear at the banquet. Who can realize the sad
+feelings of the <i>last</i> of such a noble band? Feeble Old Age, with its
+infirmities, mindful of its duty, sat perhaps for the last time around
+the banquet board, where, with friends and comrades, he before had
+enjoyed happy and jovial times, his spirits were cheered and the
+occasion made as pleasant as possible, by the presence of many of
+Baltimore's honored citizens; but not to see a single face of the many
+with whom during the seventy-five long years he had kept up a pleasant
+association, is an experience others cannot imagine.</p>
+
+<p>With Mr. Petticord's death, but two<a id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> are left of that noble band who
+so bravely protected our rights and fought for and firmly secured that
+liberty and freedom we of the present day are enjoying.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> This article was written in 1887, since when these two
+have passed on.</p><hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80">80</a></span></p></div>
+
+<h2><a id="MIDDLE_OF_THE_CENTURY">MIDDLE OF THE CENTURY.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 11.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i086.jpg" width="140" height="278" alt="" /><br />
+<b><span class="hide">B</span>ALTIMORE</b> hat-manufacturing interests at the middle of the century
+suffered greatly by comparison with those of an earlier period. That
+which had been a prominent industry, engaged in by active,
+enterprising men, and extending steadily and widely, keeping pace with
+the growth of the country, and giving encouragement to the continued
+employment of skilled labor, was at the middle of this century
+gradually falling off in volume and importance, and continued to
+decline until what was once a thriving and prosperous industry of the
+city, became one almost of insignificance.</p>
+
+<p>In the government census of 1810, the statistics regarding hat
+manufacturing place Maryland as leading in the manufacture of fur
+hats. While Connecticut, New York,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81">81</a></span> New Jersey and Pennsylvania gained
+rapidly, still this business in Baltimore continued to increase and
+grow, until during the period from 1825 to 1850 it reached the height
+of its prosperity.</p>
+
+<p>Before the year 1850 the once prominent concern of James Cox &amp; Sons
+had retired from the hat-manufacturing business, and the oldest and
+wealthiest firm was contemplating liquidation, as Messrs. George and
+William Rogers, of the firm of Jacob Rogers &amp; Sons, had decided to
+discontinue the business left by their father, choosing to follow
+other occupations. The retirement of these two firms, so long and
+closely identified with the mercantile and manufacturing industries of
+Baltimore, which had successfully contributed by their faithful
+business labors to its growth and prosperity, was a serious blow to
+the interests of the city. This change left in the field but one
+important firm who had been their contemporary&mdash;Cole, Craft &amp; Co.&mdash;of
+which the late Wm. P. Cole was the active business partner. This firm
+followed in succession the business established in 1814 by Runyon
+Harris, and was the predecessor of the present firm of Brigham,
+Hopkins &amp; Co.</p>
+
+<p>Much speculation might be indulged in as to the real cause of the
+decline and loss to Baltimore of so important an industry, but the
+plain facts force but one conviction;<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82">82</a></span> namely, the unwillingness of
+these successful old manufacturers to adopt newer methods of hat
+making, leading to such reduction in cost, through improvements, as to
+preclude the chance of their successful competition with those of more
+progressive ideas.</p>
+
+<p>While Baltimore hat makers clung tenaciously to the old ways, whereby
+labor and expense were incurred unnecessarily, those at the North were
+readily adopting the various new methods by which improvements in the
+art of hat making were constantly being made; thus, with the use of
+newly invented machinery, the cost of making hats was greatly
+lessened, and the Northern manufacturer constantly gained in
+competition with those of Baltimore.</p>
+
+<p>The invention of the Wells <i>Forming Machine</i> added largely to the
+misfortune of this business. An expensive machine, with a
+comparatively tremendous production, required a large market as an
+output; a heavy royalty also was attached to it, and the business of
+Baltimore at that time appeared not to be in condition to justify its
+introduction. Though the machine was invented in 1841, it was not
+until the year 1852 that the venture was made to introduce into
+Baltimore the Wells <i>Hat-body Forming Machine</i>. With the pecuniary
+assistance of Wm. P. Cole, Messrs. Bailey &amp; Mead, in 1852, commenced
+hat forming by machinery, the "mill" being located on Holliday<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83">83</a></span>
+street, and afterwards removed to Front street (present number 320).</p>
+
+<p>From failure of support, caused by inability to revive the depressed
+condition of the hat business, the venture of Messrs. Bailey &amp; Mead
+was not successful, and Mr. Mead retiring from the firm, the business
+was continued by Messrs. Bailey, Craft &amp; Co., mainly in the interest
+of Mr. Cole's factory, until about 1869, when hat forming by machinery
+in Baltimore was entirely abandoned, followed with the retirement of
+Mr. Cole from the manufacturing business.</p>
+
+<p>Charles Towson, who established himself in the retail hat business in
+1836, on Eutaw street, near Lexington, entered into partnership in
+1853 with Mr. Mead, the firm being Towson &amp; Mead; they commenced hat
+manufacturing at No. 10 Water street, in the factory formerly occupied
+by Jas. Cox &amp; Sons. The business was carried on for about one year,
+when it was abandoned and the firm was dissolved. Other parties made
+fruitless attempts to restore to Baltimore the prestige it once held
+in this business. To one person, however, is due the credit of
+maintaining a long, persistent and noble fight against odds and
+difficulties, and who, after all chances to restore vitality to an
+apparently pulseless enterprise seemed lost, retired from the contest,
+unscarred and full of honors,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84">84</a></span> after a creditable business career of
+forty-six years, carried on in the same factory where fifty-two years
+before he entered service as a boy. This person was Mr. Wm. P. Cole,
+who engaged in the manufacturing business in 1827, as a member of the
+firm of Clap, Cole &amp; Co.</p>
+
+<p>At the time of Mr. Cole's retirement from the manufacturing business
+he was associated with his son, Wm. R. Cole, and his nephew, Wm. T.
+Brigham, as the firm of Wm. R. Cole &amp; Co., who were then engaged in
+the jobbing hat business and located at No. 30 Sharp street, now 24
+Hopkins Place. In the year 1870 the firm was changed to Cole, Brigham
+&amp; Co.; Mr. Cole retiring from active business only upon the
+dissolution of that firm in 1877, having been engaged in business on
+his own account more than half a century, leaving behind a record
+bright with faithfulness to duty, unspotted by any unmanly business
+transaction, brilliant in having met every business obligation; for,
+during the whole course of a long business life, he so systematically
+managed his affairs as to allow him to pass safely through the many
+perilous business periods he encountered.</p>
+
+<p>As a manufacturer, Mr. Cole acquired a wide reputation for the class
+of goods he produced, and when the demand was most exclusively for
+soft felt hats, those manufactured by him were considered the best
+made in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85">85</a></span> the United States, and were sought by retailers far and near.</p>
+
+<p>While at the outbreak of the Civil War there may have lingered a vital
+spark in the hat industry, that event gave it, apparently, a death
+thrust. The relative position of Baltimore to both sides was
+disastrous to its business interests; being close upon the dividing
+line of hostilities, the sympathies of a large part of its citizens
+were enlisted in the cause of the South, while, singularly enough, the
+larger proportion of the wealth and business interests of the city was
+centered in persons allied by family ties to those of the North, who
+earnestly upheld the cause of the Union. Cut off from all intercourse
+with the South&mdash;its legitimate field for business&mdash;the share of
+Western trade that was enjoyed by Baltimore was lost by the strategy
+of war, for with the partial destruction of the Baltimore and Ohio
+Railroad the channel of her Western trade was diverted, and it drifted
+in other directions. While dissension and strife were being stirred in
+Baltimore and her industries lying dormant, business at the North was
+being stimulated by State and Government calls for articles necessary
+to equip an army for service. Hats were a needful part of an army's
+equipment, and Northern hat manufacturers were called upon for the
+supply; their factories soon assumed the life and activity of
+prosperity, creating<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86">86</a></span> a demand for additional skilled labor with good
+pay; this induced the unemployed Baltimore hatter to migrate and seek
+other places for his support. Thus did Baltimore part with an industry
+of importance closely identified with its prosperous early days,
+which, after passing through many vicissitudes, dwindled gradually
+until it became apparently extinct.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i092.jpg" width="100" height="83" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87">87</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="FASHIONS">FASHIONS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 12.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i093.jpg" width="155" height="222" alt="" /><br />
+<b><span class="hide">T</span>HE</b> high crown hat, vulgarly termed "stove-pipe," may be taken as the
+general indicator of fashions existing during the period of the
+present century. Following the "cocked" hat (the counterpart of the
+French chapeau), which style prevailed at the time of the American
+Revolution, was the "steeple top," which had a conical crown. This
+shape for a high hat was soon abandoned and the bell crown
+substituted, and so acceptable has this particular style proved that,
+since the opening of this century, it has held supremacy as the
+fashionable head-covering for man, despite frequent attempts to
+destroy its popularity by the introduction of other shapes, or the
+advocating of a change as practical.</p>
+
+<p>High hats were first napped with beaver fur, which<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88">88</a></span> material, being
+expensive, necessarily made costly hats. Otter fur was afterwards
+used, then muskrat, which greatly lessened their cost.</p>
+
+<p>"Scratch" or "brush" hats (terms used for hats made with a felt body
+and afterwards combed or scratched until a nap was raised) were
+manufactured and worn prior to the middle of the century. These were
+all stiffened high hats, and constituted the dressy article of
+headwear until the introduction of the silk hat, which for the last
+fifty years has maintained its ascendency as the leading article of
+fashion in gentlemen's hats.</p>
+
+<p>About the year 1830 the beaver hat assumed huge proportions of crown,
+having a very heavy "bell," measuring full seven inches in height and
+nine inches across the tip; to this crown was added an insignificant
+brim of only one and a half inches in width. These hats were covered
+with a beaver nap of such a length that it waved with the wind, and
+its appearance upon the head of the wearer was as <i>outre</i> and unique
+as the "shako" on the head of a modern drum-major.</p>
+
+<p>To more forcibly illustrate the proportions of this style of hat, we
+may say that its actual capacity was nearly a peck.</p>
+
+<p>Besides the high hats of either beaver, brush or silk, caps made of
+cloth or fur were much used prior to the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89">89</a></span> introduction of the soft
+felt hat, and continued to be so until an incident occurred which
+created a sudden revolution in the tastes of the American people
+regarding their head-dress.</p>
+
+<p>The visit of Louis Kossuth, the eminent Hungarian patriot, to this
+country in the year 1851, had the effect of producing a wonderful
+change in the fashion of hats. The one worn by Kossuth was a high
+unstiffened black felt trimmed with a wide band, and was ornamented
+with an ostrich feather. The immense popularity of this famous
+foreigner with all Americans brought about the fashion of a similar
+hat. Never before or since in this country did the introduction of a
+new fashion in hats spread with such rapidity as did the "Kossuth."
+All hat factories in the country were taxed to their utmost capacity
+to supply the demand, until every American citizen, old and young, was
+to be seen wearing a soft hat ornamented with an ostrich plume. It was
+the "Kossuth" that marked the era of the introduction of the soft or
+slouch hat, and stimulated the sale of that undress article of
+headwear, which continued in vogue throughout the United States for a
+number of years. The soft hat appeared in many forms and styles, some
+of which became universally popular. The "wide-awake," brought out
+during the election campaign of Abraham Lincoln, in the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90">90</a></span> year 1860,
+was a noted and successful style. It was a low crown, white felt, with
+wide black band and binding.</p>
+
+<p>Robert Bonner's original and successful advertising of his newspaper,
+the New York <i>Ledger</i>, was a sensation of the day, and the "Ledger"
+was the name given to a soft hat that commanded a great sale. The
+peculiarity of the "Ledger" was a narrow leather band and leather
+binding.</p>
+
+<p>The "resorte" brim was an American invention, introduced about the
+year 1863; it was simply a wire held to the edge of the brim of a soft
+hat with a binding, and so extended as to maintain a flatness, and
+permit its conforming to the head without destroying its outlines.
+This invention was patented, and its extensive use brought large
+profits to the owners of the patent.</p>
+
+<p>The event of the Civil War gave an increased stimulus to the use of
+the soft hat. With the South in a state of excitement, alarmed with
+portentous fears of a sectional war, such matters as pertained to
+elegance of dress were banished from the minds of its people, and the
+North, with a large army recruiting from its citizen class, brought
+the universal practice of economy among the American people, limiting
+their indulgence in expenditures for articles of dress considered as
+luxuries, and the silk hat falling under that ban, dropped almost into
+absolute disuse. With the return, however, of prosperity, an apparent<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91">91</a></span>
+desire for a more dressy article was manifest, and the stiff felt hat
+generally denominated the Derby was introduced.</p>
+
+<p>The derby was made in various proportions of crown and brim, as the
+caprice of fashion dictated, and was, as its name might imply, an
+adopted English style; it gradually grew in favor with Americans,
+until it became the universal fashion of the day, maintaining that
+position for several years. From an increased popularity it has been
+brought into such common use as to again create a growing desire for
+an article claiming something bearing a more exclusive mark of
+gentility or dignity, which the silk hat meets, and the silk hat is
+again so increasing in use as to establish the certainty of its
+maintaining with the American people its wonted place of priority as
+the article of genteel head-dress, marking the standard of fashion and
+style.</p>
+
+<p>Baltimore, always noted for its readiness in accepting foreign
+fashions, must have been among the first of American cities to adopt
+the silk hat, which was claimed to be of French invention, but if
+there be any foundation for the following narrative, the first silk
+hat was not made in Paris, but in China. It is stated that a French
+sea-captain, while sailing on the coast of China, desiring to have his
+shabby napped beaver hat, which had been made in Paris, replaced by a
+new one, took it ashore, probably to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92">92</a></span> Calcutta or Canton, to see if he
+could procure one like it. As Parisian styles were not in vogue in
+China, he found nothing of closer resemblance than the lacquered
+papier-mache or bamboo straw. The keen shrewdness of the Chinaman,
+however, quickly suggested a near imitation in silk-plush. This is
+said to have happened in 1830, and the captain returning to Paris,
+showed the Chinaman's product to his own hatter, who, upon perceiving
+its beauty, at once attempted its introduction as a fashion, which has
+long ruled nearly the whole world.</p>
+
+<p>The first silk hat produced in Baltimore is said to have been made by
+one Victor Sarata in 1838, though some contend that Jacob Rogers was
+the first to make such goods; but as the silk hat was looked upon as
+an innovation, and its introduction opposed by hat makers of that
+time, as being detrimental to their interests, it is more than
+probable that Mr. Rogers did not give encouragement to the manufacture
+of an article likely to supplant the use of his own make of "Beavers,"
+"Russias" and "Bolivars," and we may thus safely give credit to Victor
+Sarata for first producing in Baltimore this new article of fashion,
+originating in Paris, the city from whence he came.</p>
+
+<p>Until the year 1850, Paris fashions were those generally adopted in
+the leading American cities, after which English fashions in hats
+entirely superseded the former,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93">93</a></span> becoming so popular that not only
+large importations of English hats were made, but American
+manufacturers invariably copied English styles, and indulged in the
+degrading habit of pirating English trade-marks, for the purpose of
+increasing their sales. Happily, the necessity for such pernicious
+practices is at an end, for during the past ten years the great
+strides made by American manufacturers in the improvements of hat
+making place them in the foremost rank of that industry; in fact, with
+those elements of manufacture necessary to perfection, such as
+fineness of texture, lightness in weight, and elegance in style,
+American hatters to-day hold supremacy in the whole world, and,
+favored by relief from the tariff tax upon raw materials from which
+hats are made, all of which is of foreign growth, America will be
+found sending to the countries which taught her the art, examples of
+this industry far superior to those her teachers ever furnished her.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i099.jpg" width="165" height="109" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">THE &quot;DERBY&quot; OF 1889.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94">94</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="NEW_DEVELOPMENTS">NEW DEVELOPMENTS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 13.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i100.jpg" width="120" height="169" alt="" /><br />
+<b><span class="hide">A</span> STRANGE</b> fact is that the Civil War, so disastrous in its effect upon
+the industries of Baltimore, was followed at its close by the rise of
+a new enterprise, of manufacturing straw hats, which so increased and
+extended that in number of establishments and volume of production it
+soon outrivalled those of fur hats in their most prosperous time, thus
+securing to this city a kindred business, greater in extent and
+importance than the one which had, by force of circumstances, been
+wrested from her. The good reputation which the products of the new
+industry has acquired in every part of the country has contributed not
+only to the prosperity of the city, but has assisted by adding credit
+for the high standard of its manufactured goods.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1866 Mr. G. O. Wilson and Mr. Albert Sumner left their
+homes in Foxboro, Mass., in search of a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95">95</a></span> promising field for
+establishing the business of renovating straw hats. Without any
+definite place in view, one city after another was visited, Baltimore
+being finally their chosen locality. Messrs. Wilson &amp; Sumner
+associated with them Mr. W. C. Perry, who also came from Foxboro, and
+the firm was made Sumner &amp; Perry, establishing themselves in the rear
+of No. 71, now 10 West Lexington street.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Sumner withdrawing from the firm the same year, the two remaining
+partners continued the business at the same place as the firm of
+Wilson &amp; Perry. At that time the retail price of straw hats was such
+as to allow a profitable business to be done in renovating and
+altering styles, and in that branch these persons met with success.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to this, however, others had been engaged in the business of
+bleaching and pressing straw hats. Among the first who entered into
+the business, as far as can be learned, was the firm of Rosenswig,
+Davidson &amp; Ash, about the year 1848; they were cap manufacturers, and
+added the pressing of Leghorn hats as an auxiliary business. Mr.
+Samuel White, who learned his trade of the previously mentioned firm,
+afterwards carried on hat bleaching and pressing in connection with
+cap making, at No. 78 South Charles street (present No. 132). From
+1850 to 1865 extensive importations of German straw hats came into<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96">96</a></span>
+the port of Baltimore, and Mr. White did a large business in finishing
+these goods. In 1857 Mr. White commenced the jobbing hat business,
+forming in 1861 the firm of White, Rosenburg &amp; Co., and is now in
+business at No. 9 South Howard street, of the firm of S. White &amp; Son.</p>
+
+<p>Richard Hill, at present in the retail hat business at No. 5 South
+Liberty street, was formerly engaged in hat bleaching and pressing at
+the same locality.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Wilson &amp; Perry continued to prosper in their enterprise, and,
+increasing their facilities, gradually developed it into straw goods
+manufacturing, confining their business for several years almost
+exclusively with two prominent Baltimore jobbing houses, who supplied
+sufficient patronage for their constantly increasing production; one
+of their patrons being Cole, Brigham &amp; Co., the other Armstrong, Cator
+&amp; Co., one of the largest millinery firms in the country.</p>
+
+<p>In 1877 Messrs. Wilson &amp; Perry purchased the premises No. 101 West
+Lexington street, now 104, where they secured more commodious
+quarters, and, with an admirably equipped factory, continued to do a
+large and prosperous business. Mr. Perry died in 1880. In July, 1887,
+the firm title of Wilson &amp; Perry was changed, Mr. Wilson associating
+with M. Frank, J. D. Horner and A. Levering, formed the firm of Wilson,
+Frank &amp; Horner,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97">97</a></span> and occupied the warehouse No. 204 West Baltimore
+street, in connection with the factory on Lexington street.</p>
+
+<p>In January, 1875, Isaac H. Francis and James E. Sumner, who had been
+in the employ of Wilson &amp; Perry, started the straw hat manufacturing
+business at the N. W. corner of Lexington and Liberty streets, and in
+the following year Wm. T. Brigham (then of the firm of Cole, Brigham &amp;
+Co.) became associated with them, the firm being made Francis, Sumner
+&amp; Co. In 1877 the firm of Cole, Brigham &amp; Co. was dissolved, Mr.
+Brigham becoming connected with R. D. Hopkins, as the firm of Brigham &amp;
+Hopkins, occupying the premises No. 128 West Fayette street (present
+No. 211). In 1880 Mr. Hopkins was admitted as a partner in the firm of
+Francis, Sumner &amp; Co., and Messrs. Francis and Sumner became members
+of the firm of Brigham &amp; Hopkins, the interests of the two firms
+having always, in fact, been identical since they were first
+established. The two firms were continued until July, 1887, when, by
+the withdrawal of Mr. Sumner, they were dissolved, and became
+consolidated as the firm of Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co., now occupying the
+large and spacious factory at the corner of German and Paca streets,
+erected in 1884.</p>
+
+<p>In the year 1880 Messrs. Francis, Sumner &amp; Co. placed their interest
+in their Lexington and Liberty street<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98">98</a></span> factory with Wm. Fales and Jas.
+M. Hopkins, transferring their own entire business to the enlarged
+premises at 128 W. Fayette street. Fales &amp; Hopkins continued at the
+corner of Lexington and Liberty streets until the fall of 1883, when
+Mr. Hopkins, forced by declining health to give up business, sold his
+interest to Mr. Louis Oudesluys, the firm becoming Fales &amp; Oudesluys.
+Mr. James M. Hopkins died of consumption at Colorado Springs,
+February, 1884.</p>
+
+<p>In 1885 S. C. Townsend and John W. Grace became associated with Messrs.
+Fales &amp; Oudesluys, and a new firm formed, as Fales, Oudesluys &amp; Co.,
+continuing for two years, when it was dissolved, Messrs. Townsend and
+Grace remaining as the firm of Townsend, Grace &amp; Co., at 128 W.
+Fayette street, while Messrs. Fales and Oudesluys formed a new firm,
+as Fales, Oudesluys &amp; Co., locating at 115 S. Eutaw street. Mr. Fales
+remained in the latter firm but a few months, when it was again
+changed to that of Oudesluys Bros., comprised of Louis, Adrian and
+Eugene Oudesluys, now doing business at 115 S. Eutaw street.</p>
+
+<p>In 1878 Mr. M. S. Levy, who was then a cap maker, commenced the
+finishing of straw hats, having the hats sewed by others, while he did
+the finishing and trimming, his place of business being then at the
+N. E. corner of Sharp and German streets.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99">99</a></span></p>
+
+<p>With increasing trade, Mr. Levy removed in 1881 to more spacious
+quarters at Nos. 318 and 320 W. Baltimore street (present numbers 216
+and 218), where he commenced the general manufacture of straw hats. In
+1883 he took his two sons into partnership, the firm being made M. S.
+Levy &amp; Sons; their premises being destroyed by fire in October, 1886,
+they removed to 117 S. Sharp street. In September, 1888, being again
+the victims of fire, they occupied temporarily the premises N. E. cor.
+Paca and German streets, remaining there until taking possession of
+their present extensive factory located at the N. W. cor. of Paca and
+Lombard streets.</p>
+
+<p>In 1880 Tomz, Richardson &amp; Co. commenced in a small way to manufacture
+straw hats at No. 341 W. Baltimore street (now 317), but, from lack of
+business experience, soon abandoned the undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Bateman &amp; Richardson in 1882 embarked in the business,
+occupying a portion of the premises No. 5 S. Liberty street. In 1883
+Mr. Scutch was admitted as a partner, the firm becoming Bateman,
+Richardson &amp; Co., and, removing to No. 55 St. Paul street (now 313),
+continued until 1885; not meeting with anticipated success, they gave
+up the business.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Francis O. Cole &amp; Co. in 1882 commenced the manufacture of
+straw goods, erecting for the purpose<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100">100</a></span> a building at Nos. 7 and 9
+Saratoga street (now 424 E. Saratoga), continuing business until 1885,
+when the firm was dissolved.</p>
+
+<p>Mr R. Q. Taylor has long been engaged in the manufacture of Mackinaw
+straw hats as a specialty. His acquaintance with and interest in this
+product dates as far back as 1850, when he first used the Mackinaw for
+his retail trade, since which, every season the "Mackinaw" has been
+the prominent straw hat sent from his establishment, and for a period
+of fifteen years was the <i>only</i> article of straw hat retailed by him.
+The successful control of a special style as an article of fashion for
+thirty-five consecutive years is a remarkable record, an
+accomplishment that plainly shows ability as a leader of fashion, for
+which Mr. Taylor's natural capacity so well fits him.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Taylor confined the use of the "Mackinaw" hat strictly to his
+retail demands until after the year 1868, since when he has
+manufactured the article for the trade, distributing his products over
+the entire country, and establishing for "Taylor's Mackinaws" a
+national fame.</p>
+
+<p>In addition to the manufacture of men's and boys' straw hats, which
+class has heretofore comprised the larger proportion of such goods
+made in Baltimore, another branch, that of ladies' straw goods, has
+been developed, and is already assuming interesting proportions,
+promising to become a valuable addition to this industry.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101">101</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Wolford &amp; Shilburg in 1883 commenced the manufacture of
+ladies' straw goods at No. 6 E. Pratt street, remaining at that place
+for one year, removing in 1883 to No. 205 Camden street, where they
+are now located.</p>
+
+<p>In 1887, Messrs. L. W. Sumner, G .K. Thompson and D. Whitney, as the
+firm of Sumner, Thompson &amp; Whitney, commenced the manufacture of
+ladies' and misses' straw goods, locating their factory at 317 N.
+Howard street.</p>
+
+<p>At the present time there are in Baltimore, apparently in prosperous
+condition, eight straw hat establishments, giving employment to eleven
+hundred hands, male and female, and producing annually, manufactured
+goods to the value of upwards of a million dollars, in the
+distribution of which Baltimore is brought into close business contact
+with every State and Territory of the Union, and the city's importance
+as a manufacturing centre is enhanced by the character of articles
+sent forth by those engaged in this class of business.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i107.jpg" width="85" height="68" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102">102</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="GROWTH_OF_BUSINESS">GROWTH OF BUSINESS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 14.</p>
+
+<div id="i108">
+<div id="i108a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i108b">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i108c">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i108d">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">F</span>OR</b> many years the Mackinaw took precedence of all straw hats as the
+most desirable summer article for gentlemen's headwear, far
+out-rivalling in its success as a fashion any other straw product ever
+introduced to the American people. Having attained this prominent
+position mainly through its successful management by Baltimore
+manufacturers, it forms an important factor in the prosperity of the
+straw hat industry of Baltimore. In fact it is the actual foundation
+of the present large and increasing straw goods business of the city
+to-day.</p>
+
+<p>While the Mackinaw hat had previously found favor with a few prominent
+retailers, it was not until the year 1868 that Mr. W.T. Brigham, then
+of the firm of Wm. R. Cole &amp; Co., observing the merits of the article,
+concluded to undertake its introduction to the trade, to whom it was
+generally quite unknown. Among those who had used profitably the
+Mackinaw for their retail trade were R.Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
+Charles Oakford, W.F.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103">103</a></span> Warburton and Louis Blaylock, of Philadelphia.
+Though it was an article of domestic production, the beauty and
+commendable qualities of the Mackinaw were indeed a surprising
+revelation to the trade at large. Each year added to the popularity of
+the Mackinaw, until it became the acceptable American straw hat,
+without which no first-class retailer could consider his stock
+complete. While the great demand existed, Baltimore continued to
+supply the larger proportion of all the Mackinaw hats sold, and taking
+advantage of the reputation thus gained for such goods, her
+manufacturers produced other kinds of straw hats, and by the exercise
+of proper care and attention acquired such skill as to secure for the
+straw goods products of Baltimore the worthy reputation of being the
+best made in the United States, consequently and beyond contradiction
+the best in the world.</p>
+
+</div><!--i108-->
+
+<p>In the earliest days of straw hat making in Baltimore, at the time
+when the Mackinaw was being introduced, the sewing of straw hats by
+machine was a new invention, and practically a close monopoly
+controlled by a strong combination of wealthy straw goods
+manufacturers of the North, who, jointly as a stock company, prevented
+the sale of the straw sewing machines outside their own circle.
+Fortunately for the success of the new undertaking in Baltimore, the
+good qualities of the Mackinaw hat were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104">104</a></span> more satisfactorily retained
+by hand sewing, rendering machines in their manufacture a useless
+requirement.</p>
+
+<p>Thus an advantage was gained in supplying a hand-sewed hat, embodying
+such points of perfection in style and finish as to quite surprise
+those not familiar with the manufacture of such goods. The "Mackinaw"
+of Baltimore make continued to grow in popular favor until it had
+secured a greater distribution than was ever before attained by any
+other article of straw hat, making a remarkable record for tenacity,
+by holding for upwards of fifteen successive years, popularity as the
+leading article of summer headwear.</p>
+
+<p>Baltimore continued to enlarge and increase her straw hat factories
+and improve their products, so that now in this industry she stands in
+the proud position of being the leading city in the United States in
+the production of the best class of straw hats.</p>
+
+<p>This, in brief, is a history of another branch of the hat business,
+which attained large proportions, supplementing the one which, having
+gained a degree of importance in the manufacturing history of the
+city, was by force of circumstances reduced to comparative
+insignificance.</p>
+
+<p>The growth of the straw hat business of Baltimore may be looked upon
+as somewhat phenomenal. The first introduction of the Mackinaw hat by
+William R. Cole <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105">105</a></span>&amp; Co., in 1867, may be taken as the beginning of
+straw goods manufacturing, and with but a single manufacturing firm
+existing in 1875, its development and increase dates from that time.
+It is doubtful if in 1875 the total value of manufactured straw goods
+produced in Baltimore reached the sum of $75,000, while in the face of
+a steady and constant decline in values&mdash;the result of labor-saving
+machines, together with reduced cost of raw material&mdash;an increase in
+production of twenty-fold is an accomplishment of less than fifteen
+years. This success cannot be attributed to any local advantages, but
+is due entirely to the energy, enterprise and business qualifications
+of those engaged in the business, qualifications which have
+accomplished the result of giving valuable assistance in the city's
+advancement as an important manufacturing centre. It has also, by the
+recognized merits of its products, lent a worthy influence throughout
+the whole United States in sustaining the excellent reputation long
+enjoyed by Baltimore for the good quality and reliability of its
+manufactured goods.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i111.jpg" width="125" height="47" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106">106</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="HISTORY_OF_THE_MACKINAW_HAT">HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 15.</p>
+
+<div id="i112">
+<div id="i112a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i112b">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i112c">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">A</span> RESULT</b> of the remarkable popularity of the Mackinaw straw hat was,
+that Baltimore came rapidly forward as a straw goods manufacturing
+place, becoming important as a center in that particular branch of
+business; therefore a history of the article which contributed so
+largely to the development of this industry is likely to prove both
+interesting and instructive.</p>
+
+<p>"Mackinaw," as a trade term or name, does not, as might be supposed,
+indicate the region from whence the articles comes, but undoubtedly
+received its christening from some one of the few retailers who early
+used these goods, in order to create a distinction from a similar,
+but<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107">107</a></span> much inferior article, then termed the "Canada" hat. While both
+the "Mackinaw" and the "Canada" are made of wheat straw, the
+difference between the two, as the product of one country and of
+nearly the same latitude, is a great surprise. The wheat of the
+eastern part of Canada produces a straw dark in color, harsh in
+texture, and of little use for making a hat, while that grown in the
+western part of the same country is clear and white in color,
+possessing a brilliant enamel which imparts the beauty that rendered
+the Mackinaw so famous as an article of fashion.</p>
+
+<p>The Mackinaw must be considered a local rather than a national
+production, coming as it does from a region comprised within a small
+radius around the city of Detroit, part of which is Canadian territory
+and part within the borders of the United States; for while
+considerable straw from which the plait is made is raised and plaited
+within the limits of the State of Michigan, by far the largest
+proportion, as also the best quality, is the product of the Canadian
+territory. Nature seems to have provided a small community with
+unusual advantages, for within a limited territory has been produced
+all the large quantity of straw plait required to supply the popular
+demand that for many years existed for Mackinaw hats, and all efforts
+elsewhere to produce material combining the peculiarities of this
+straw, from which these hats were made, invariably failed.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108">108</a></span></p>
+
+</div><!--i112-->
+
+<p>The claim of the Mackinaw to antiquity and long use is perhaps as
+strong as that of other plaits with which the trade has become
+familiar, for no doubt the natives of the country made use of these
+hats as a head-covering long before they became an article of trade.</p>
+
+<p>The Mackinaw was for many years after its first introduction sold
+under the designation of the "Canada" hat, the name given to a similar
+but comparatively degraded article produced in Lower, or Eastern
+Canada; and the title Mackinaw was first applied by the late Mr.
+Charles Oakford, of Philadelphia, or by Mr. R.Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
+each of whom were among the first to make it a fashionable hat.</p>
+
+<p>The makers of these goods are wholly the poor, ignorant half-breeds,
+who spring from the Canadian French and the Indian. Finding that hats,
+as well as the skins of the animals they trapped, could be traded for,
+the family talent was brought into use to produce something that might
+contribute to their meagre subsistence. So during the winter season,
+while the men hunted the muskrat, the Indian women and children
+plaited straw and made hats, which, on the opening of spring, were
+carried with the skins obtained by the hunters, to the towns, where
+they were exchanged for food, drink, clothing and ammunition.</p>
+
+<p>To the advantages of soil and climate is attributed that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109">109</a></span> purity of
+color, brilliancy of enamel, toughness of fibre and elasticity of
+texture which are recommendations of the Mackinaw. Added to these
+natural qualities was the advantage of a peculiar treatment given to
+the straw by the natives, who employed a whitening or bleaching
+process without the use of chemicals, giving increased beauty to the
+article.</p>
+
+<p>During the prosperity of Mackinaw straw plaiting, a prominent
+character among the half-breeds was one Madame Lousseux, a sturdy,
+aged matron, with twelve hearty daughters, who, inheriting their
+mother's prolific nature, were in turn each the proprietress of a
+family of a dozen boys and girls. They all appeared to inherit the old
+lady's natural ability and wonderful expertness, and surpassed all
+competitors in the plaiting of the straw. The choicest products in
+braid and hats came from the Lousseux family.</p>
+
+<p>In 1834, and for many years after, these goods were sold and used only
+as ordinary harvest hats. It now seems surprising that an article
+possessing such attractive merits should have occupied a secondary
+position and been so long in establishing the reputation it finally
+secured. The first person, as far as discovered, who used this article
+for retail purposes as a genteel and fashionable hat, was Henry
+Griswold in the year 1845, who did business<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110">110</a></span> in the then little and
+obscure town of Racine, Wisconsin. The Raciners must have been people
+of an appreciative and refined taste, as it appears that Mr. Griswold
+sold the hat for several seasons to his own advantage.</p>
+
+<p>Prior to 1846 these goods were sold in New York by Leland, Mellen &amp;
+Co., at that time the largest wholesale hat firm in the country. Mr.
+Mellen retired from business in 1851. In reply to a personal inquiry
+of the writer in the year 1874, Mr. Mellen wrote from Framingham,
+Mass., as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"The Canada straw hat from the region of Detroit was sold by our firm
+as early as 1845. After being blocked and trimmed, they were sold as
+an ordinary staple hat. We sold a few to John H. Genin, W.H. Beebe &amp;
+Co., and Charles Knox, then the leading retail hatters of Broadway. I
+think, however, they were sold by them only as a fishing or harvest
+hat. We continued to receive these goods from Detroit for several
+seasons, until an article from Lower Canada, of inferior quality and
+less price, made its appearance, and stopped the sale, as far as we
+were concerned."</p>
+
+<p>The exact date of the appearance of the Mackinaw in Philadelphia
+cannot be accurately determined, but it must have been as early as
+1847. Messrs. Beebe, Coster &amp; Co., a prominent retail firm in
+Philadelphia, in 1849, sold the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111">111</a></span> tapering crown, wide brim "Canada
+straw hat." From about 1855 to 1860 the Mackinaw became so very
+popular in the Quaker City that it was recognized as a leading
+article. The prominent retailers then using it were Charles Oakford,
+W.F. Warburton, Louis Blaylock, and Sullender &amp; Pascall; each of these
+firms themselves finished the straw hats, taking them as they were
+sewed by the natives, which was with a taper crown and wide brim,
+making little pretence to any variety in style or proportion. Messrs.
+Sullender &amp; Pascall made an advanced step and undertook one season to
+sell the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats, preparing
+them in various shapes and for the first time adapting them to the
+requirements and tastes of a "nobby" trade.</p>
+
+<p>In 1847 William Ketchem of Buffalo, E.B. Wickes of Syracuse, and John
+Heywood &amp; Sons of Rochester sold these hats. In 1848 L. Benedict &amp;
+Co., prominent retailers of Cleveland, handled the goods. This firm
+was followed next season by Messrs. R. &amp; N. Dockstadter, then a very
+prominent concern in the same place. In 1849 they were sold in
+Sandusky by C.C. Keech.</p>
+
+<p>The Mackinaw during these periods must have been introduced and sold
+in other places, but it had not secured its recognition as an article
+worthy of being placed on a level with foreign productions, which
+were<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112">112</a></span> then considered the desirable and suitable straw hat for genteel
+wear. It was probably not until after the year 1855 that the article
+received its title of "Mackinaw," and not until then did it secure its
+well merited, dignified position.</p>
+
+<p>By far the largest retailer of the Mackinaw hat in this country, and
+the one to whom belongs the greatest credit in popularizing it, is Mr.
+R.Q. Taylor, of Baltimore. He introduced the hat to his customers as
+far back as 1850, and for <i>thirty</i> consecutive seasons sold it without
+any apparent diminution of popularity. For many years Mr. Taylor sold
+the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats. At one time so
+identified did the Mackinaw become with the people of this city, that
+it was said a Baltimorean might be recognized anywhere by the straw
+hat he wore. Mr. Taylor asserts that in the years 1872 and 1873 he
+retailed from his own counter, in the two seasons, upwards of 9000
+hats. The reputation of the Mackinaw has been admirably sustained by
+Mr. Taylor, whose firm is still engaged in their manufacture, with a
+constant demand for them. Probably no other straw hat ever introduced
+to the American public can show such a continued and extended sale. In
+1868 Messrs. Wm. R. Cole &amp; Co., predecessors of the present firm of
+Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co., commenced to produce these goods for the
+general trade,<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113">113</a></span> and it is to their efforts that much of the widespread
+popularity of the Mackinaw is due. They first tried these hats with
+their own local trade, and finding them eminently successful, ventured
+to offer them in New York, meeting with much encouragement. From a
+small commencement their trade in these goods continued to increase
+until a large and well established business was secured, continuing to
+grow in volume and extent, and becoming the precursor of an industry
+that places Baltimore in a leading position as a manufacturing place
+for straw goods.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i119.jpg" width="125" height="86" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114">114</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="MODERN_IMPROVEMENTS">MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 16.</p>
+
+<div id="i120">
+<div id="i120a">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120b">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120c">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120d">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120e">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120f">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120g">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120h">&nbsp;</div>
+<div id="i120i">&nbsp;</div>
+
+<p><b><span class="hide">I</span>N</b> the rank of those whose successful undertakings have contributed
+towards the restoration to Baltimore of a lost industry, and placing
+it upon such a foundation as to have it recognized as one of
+importance, no firm stands more prominent or has done more towards its
+accomplishment than that of Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co. The straw hat
+business inaugurated by this firm's immediate predecessors, and
+encouraged by their own efforts, has grown in volume and strength
+until Baltimore is now<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115">115</a></span> designated in trade parlance "the straw hat
+city," rightfully claiming the honor of surpassing in this class of
+her manufactured products the efforts of all rivals of this or of any
+other country.</p>
+
+<p>Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co., while possessing a large business,
+have the pleasure of conducting it in a spacious building, whose
+architectural design is one of the handsomest of its kind in the
+country, and whose conveniences for the successful prosecution of
+their business cannot be excelled. A business coming from one of its
+pioneers through a direct succession of firms gives to Brigham,
+Hopkins &amp; Co. a natural pride in such an inheritance, and brings also
+a pleasure in being able to trace its progress from its origin,
+showing how this branch of manufacture was at an early day brought to
+an admirable condition of prosperity, afterwards to pass through a
+period of almost total decay, then again to attain a development that
+entitles it to rank with any of the successful and prominent
+industries of the city.</p>
+
+<p>It is a pleasant reflection as well as a happy coincidence that the
+restoration of a forsaken industry, once a vital element in the city's
+life and activity, is greatly due to the labors of the firm who, in
+this branch, connect the past with the present, the old with the new.</p>
+
+<p>The enterprising business traits manifested by Runyon<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116">116</a></span> Harris, in
+erecting, in the year 1814, a large hat factory in this city, seemed
+to have prompted his various successors to a spirit of emulation,
+enabling them to preserve the legacy bequeathed them, and to
+perpetuate that reputation for meritorious products that was so early
+earned in the factory of Mr. Harris.</p>
+
+<p>Following the erection of the factory by Mr. Harris came the firm of
+Aaron Clap &amp; Co., who purchased the property and commenced in 1817 the
+manufacture of hats, and a remarkable fact&mdash;one encouraging an innate
+pride in their successors&mdash;is that during three-quarters of a century
+all of the firms inheriting a title of descent from that of Aaron Clap
+&amp; Co. have passed in safety through every financial convulsion of the
+country, and have promptly met every pecuniary obligation incurred.</p>
+
+<p>Although during the former period of prosperity in the hat business of
+Baltimore, felt hats only were manufactured, which business was
+completely reduced by the unfortunate conditions existing at the time
+of the Civil War; its revival came through the establishing of a
+different branch, that of the manufacture of straw hats; and while
+Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co. have lately entered extensively into
+the manufacture of silk and felt hats also, it is the purpose of this
+article to dwell more particularly upon facts relating to the straw
+hat branch that has contributed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117">117</a></span> so largely in bringing Baltimore once
+again forward as a leading hat manufacturing city.</p>
+
+<p>Prior to 1860 Messrs. Wm. P. Cole &amp; Son, then manufacturers and
+jobbers, became especially interested in the straw goods branch of
+their business. Being at that time manufacturers of the best class of
+felt hats, the straw goods sold by them were all made in the factories
+of the North. Machines for sewing the straw braid were not then in
+use, and much of the straw products of foreign countries came ready
+sewed in shapes that were very irregular in proportions and sizes. The
+looseness of the stitches in sewing rendered the use of glue a
+necessity in the manufacture of the hats, producing an article of
+headwear that gave but little comfort. Suggestions for improvements
+were given the manufacturers, who adopted them with advantage to
+themselves. The first suggestion made by the Baltimore firm was an
+improvement in the appearance of the hat by trimming it with wider
+bands. At that time the use of bands about 14 lines wide was
+prevalent, and the adoption of 23-line bands was looked upon as a very
+radical departure. The substitution of leather sweats for those of oil
+muslin was also first undertaken by the Baltimore firm; following
+which, the most important improvement ever gained in the production of
+straw goods was conceived and executed in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118">118</a></span> this city, which was the
+abandonment of the heavy glue-sizing and the manufacture of the
+comfortable "flexible finish" straw hat, an accomplishment secured by
+careful attention to the proper sewing of the goods aided by hand
+finish.</p>
+
+</div><!--i120-->
+
+<p>For several years Wm. P. Cole &amp; Son and their successors had straw
+hats of their own designing made and finished at the North, continuing
+to suggest improvements which were made at their command, and the
+privilege of retaining which for their own trade was for the time
+extended to them by the manufacturers, from which they gained such
+advantages as would arise from having goods superior to and differing
+from the general class sold by others.</p>
+
+<p>It was in the year 1875, upon the dissolution of the firm of Cole,
+Brigham &amp; Co., that Mr. W.T. Brigham and Mr. R.D. Hopkins, uniting as
+the firm of Brigham &amp; Hopkins, became straw hat manufacturers. The
+Mackinaw straw hat had at this time gained well in popularity; the
+natural firmness and flexibility of the Mackinaw were merits
+particularly acceptable to the trade, and the new firm made a careful
+study of embodying as far as possible in the manufacture of all their
+straw hats, those essential points possessed by the Mackinaw. So
+successful were their efforts that, by the exercise of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119">119</a></span> thorough
+watchfulness, they continued to improve, until they secured for their
+products a celebrity that gave the firm the foremost position in the
+trade.</p>
+
+<p>Following the onward movement of the straw hat business in Baltimore
+since its first introduction (less than twenty years ago), it is
+interesting to watch its constant and steady growth, and to observe
+the advance that has been accomplished. Even before Messrs. Brigham &amp;
+Hopkins entered upon the business, a great improvement in the straw
+goods had already been made through the favorable impetus imparted by
+their predecessors. Straw hats which from a lack of style and comfort
+had heretofore played a secondary part in the conditions of man's
+costume, were so much improved in style and finish as to be accepted
+as a desirable article of dress, thus an increased demand was created
+for them.</p>
+
+<p>To still further improve the straw hat, and as near as possible secure
+perfection, was the aim of the Baltimore manufacturers.</p>
+
+<p>Entering the field with the commendable object of producing a class of
+goods that should be recognized as the best, Messrs. Brigham &amp;
+Hopkins, abandoning traditional ways, commenced their work upon a
+thoroughly independent basis; copying after none, but relying upon
+their own ingenuity; striving to improve upon every last<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120">120</a></span> effort,
+observing and studying the wants and needs of their customers, they
+continued to put forth a class of goods bearing an undoubted stamp of
+originality, which, being supplemented by excellent workmanship and
+the use of good materials, resulted in securing a large patronage, and
+brought to them a constantly increasing trade. In this way did the
+firm secure a recognized position at the head of the straw hat
+industry of the country, and gained for their products a reputation
+for excellence in style and finish that is widespread over the whole
+country. American manufacturers had a long and tedious struggle in
+their efforts to overcome the prejudices of the people existing in
+favor of foreign productions, but steady endeavors to win the approval
+of Americans for American made hats have scored a genuine success, and
+the American gentleman of to-day may take a just pride in wearing a
+straw hat of Baltimore make&mdash;one not to be excelled.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i126.jpg" width="100" height="83" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121">121</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="A_MODEL_ESTABLISHMENT">A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 17.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i127.jpg" width="160" height="231" alt="" /><br />
+<b><span class="hide">T</span>HAT</b> part of the history of Baltimore which relates to the present
+position of its hat industry is especially interesting, as it records
+a business that has acquired large proportions, placing it prominently
+among the many important manufactures of this city.</p>
+
+<p>A business identified with the very earliest days of the city's
+existence, growing and assuming in its movement a condition of vigor
+and prosperity that is encouraging for the future, has given to
+Baltimore a name and fame that places her in an enviable position at
+the very head of the hat-manufacturing cities of this country.</p>
+
+<p>As an example, showing the growth and progress of the hat business,
+and giving evidence of its extent in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122">122</a></span> Baltimore at the present time,
+no better illustration could be offered than a description of the
+complete establishment erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co. for
+the requirements of their extensive business.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i128.jpg" width="250" height="293" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">PRESENT FACTORY OF BRIGHAM, HOPKINS &amp; CO.</p>
+
+<p>While at the present time the hat business of Baltimore is largely
+confined to the special manufacture of straw goods, a revived movement
+made by one firm in the manufacture of silk and felt hats assures a
+development of that<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123">123</a></span> branch of the business also into such proportions
+that ere long it may restore to Baltimore the prestige and rank it
+once held as the manufacturing centre of high grades of that class of
+goods.</p>
+
+<p>Going back to the early period of 1814, Runyon Harris, the predecessor
+of this firm, in advance of his time displayed evidence of progressive
+ideas by erecting what was then considered a large and spacious
+factory. His structure was one hundred and twenty-five feet in length,
+about twenty-five in width, and two and a half stories high; the area
+of space upon the two floors, which was alone suited for work-people,
+was 6200 square feet.</p>
+
+<p>The line of successors to Runyon Harris have all been found
+proverbially enterprising and energetic, always noted as active and
+successful manufacturers of their day. Inheriting somewhat the spirit
+of activity so marked in their worthy predecessors, Messrs. Brigham,
+Hopkins &amp; Co. are found in the advance, and make no idle boast of an
+establishment whose breadth of space, architectural beauty, and
+convenience of arrangement find few rivals in the whole catalogue of
+similar business places in this country. Their warehouse, prominently
+situated, rising six stories above ground, being one hundred and fifty
+feet deep by forty in width, gives a surface area of 42,000 square
+feet of work room, all of which is provided with unusual advantages<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124">124</a></span>
+for daylight and ventilation. Added to this is the detached
+"make-shop" of the firm, located at Relay Station, on the line of the
+Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, nine miles from the city.<a id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> It is a high
+studded building, of one story, built in this manner to allow the
+condensing and evaporation of steam, which escapes from the
+"batteries" of boiling water, around which the men are constantly at
+work. This building is one hundred and thirty by sixty feet, giving in
+addition to the city ware<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125">125</a></span>house 7800 square feet, or a total in round
+numbers of 50,000 square feet, upwards of an acre of working space,
+which is a good showing of growth and expansion when contrasted with
+one of the best establishments of the year 1814.</p>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> This department has lately been removed to the city, and
+is located corner Paca and King streets.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i130.jpg" width="395" height="272" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>The handsome structure at the corner of German and Paca streets was
+erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co., designed and arranged to
+suit the demands of their own manufacturing business. Ground was
+broken in the month of April, 1884, and the building completed and
+occupied in January, 1885. It has a frontage of forty-one feet six
+inches on German street, and extends back on Paca street one hundred
+and fifty feet to Cider Alley.</p>
+
+<p>Located upon one of the broadest thoroughfares, at a point which is
+the water-shed of this part of the city, being at the level of one
+hundred feet above tide-water, it rises prominently among other fine
+warehouses surrounding it, showing its array of architectural beauty
+to advantage, for it is one of the most imposing of the mercantile
+structures of the city. The building is constructed of Baltimore
+pressed brick and the famous Potomac red sandstone, which together so
+harmonize in color as to render a very pleasing effect; the
+ornamentations surrounding the windows are in terra-cotta and moulded
+brick. The style of the building is Romanesque, or round<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126">126</a></span> arched. Very
+striking features are the immense arched openings upon the Paca street
+fa&ccedil;ade, being seventeen feet in width and twenty-five feet in height,
+which with their broad treatment of mullioned panels and heavy
+rough-hewn stonework, give strength and character to the building.
+These spacious windows are not simply for effect, but designate the
+location of the principal offices, and by their wide expanse afford
+abundance of light to the show-rooms, making these departments
+particularly attractive by the cheerful airiness and brightness that
+plenty of sunlight always brings.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i132.jpg" width="365" height="168" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">The large office windows.</p>
+
+<p>Throughout the whole building is a generous treatment of spacious
+windows, flooding the interior with a bountiful supply of light, so
+necessary to the production of properly<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127">127</a></span> manufactured goods as well as
+to the health and comfort of the work-people.</p>
+
+<p>The main entrance to this building is marked by its liberal dimension.
+A slight elevation is made from the sidewalk, and beyond a recess of
+several feet are framed two large French plate glass windows, which
+afford a view of the entire extent of the first floor with its offices
+and extensive storage room. Entrance doors are placed on either side
+of this recess.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i133.jpg" width="365" height="249" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">THE FRONT ENTRANCE.</p>
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128">128</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Broad stairways connect every floor, providing easy and quick ingress
+and egress at both the front and the back part of the building,
+rendering in the greatest degree security to the lives of those
+employed within.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining, in the rear, is another structure three stories high,
+separated from the main building by fire-proof brick walls, and used
+as a boiler-room, as also for other departments of work desirable to
+be kept apart from the general work-rooms. This separate building was
+designed as an additional means of safety, in not having the large
+boilers within the limits of the main building.</p>
+
+<p>From basement to roof this model factory is well equipped with all
+necessary modern plans for producing the best that is capable of being
+made in this manufacturing line.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i134.jpg" width="110" height="38" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129">129</a></span></p>
+
+<h2><a id="WAYS_AND_MEANS_OF_THE_PRESENT_TIME">WAYS AND MEANS OF THE PRESENT TIME.</a></h2>
+
+<p class="h3">No. 18.</p>
+
+<p><img class="dropimg" src="images/i135.jpg" width="220" height="268" alt="" /><br />
+<b><span class="hide">T</span>AKING</b> the start for a tour of inspection through the establishment of
+Brigham, Hopkins &amp; Co., one is ushered directly into the first or main
+floor of the building, which is partly occupied by offices for the
+members of the firm and for the necessary clerical force, as well as
+the show-rooms for the exhibit of the products of this factory. These
+various apartments are partitioned off with handsomely beaded cherry,
+and a series of arched windows give beauty to the architecture and
+serve the practical purpose of ventilation.</p><p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130">130</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The several rooms upon this floor are handsomely finished in solid
+cherry; this was done solely with the view of harmonizing the effect
+with that of the exterior of the building, rather than for an
+indulgence in luxury.</p>
+
+<p>In the first office is a capacious fire-proof vault, having its
+counterpart in size in the basement, upon which the one in the office
+rests; it is built of yellow enameled-face brick, and with its
+handsomely finished iron door surmounted with a bold decoration in
+terra-cotta, adds greatly to the ornamentation of this room. The desks
+are all of cherry, large and capacious, designed expressly for the
+required accommodation of the bookkeepers.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining is the private office of the members of the firm; among the
+decorations of this room is a spacious open fire-place, ornamented
+with terra-cotta tile and a handsome mantelpiece in carved cherry. The
+carpeted floor and tasty furniture serve to give that comfort that is
+looked for in the modern office of the business man. Beyond and
+leading from this office are show-rooms for the exhibition of the
+firm's products. These show-rooms, two in number, are without doubt
+the best in finish, breadth of space and arrangement of any in this
+branch of business in the United States, affording the best
+conveniences for the display of the handsome goods they contain; the
+first in size, 25 x 18 feet, with an adjoining one <span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131">131</a></span> 18 x 12 feet, is
+supplied with handsomely designed show-cases of solid cherry and of
+glass; the wall space is colored a light tint, while the ceilings are
+laid off in yellow and brown. A long table of cherry occupies the
+centre of the large room, while the hard-wood floors are partially
+covered with oriental rugs. When these rooms are filled with the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132">132</a></span>
+choice products of the firm, embracing the finest qualities of straw,
+with their trimmings of various hues and colors, intermingled with the
+sombre black of the derbys and the brilliant lustre of the silk hat,
+upon which is thrown a bountiful supply of light that comes from the
+spacious windows, a striking melange of harmonious colors is produced.
+Here the customer is surrounded by all that is desired from which to
+make his selection.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i137.jpg" width="365" height="398" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">A bit of the offices</p>
+
+<p>Beyond these show-rooms is still another room devoted to the valuable
+collection of hat trimmings. While to the uninitiated the trimmings of
+a hat, consisting merely of its band and binding, may appear quite
+insignificant, yet to the manufacturer it is a part of great
+importance. Here in this room, stored in various quantities, are two
+hundred different designs of hat-bands, every one of which is the
+product of a French or German loom, mostly made from original designs
+furnished and sent abroad to be executed for this firm.</p>
+
+<p>From this, the last of the series of departments on this floor, exit
+is gained to the remaining space, which is used for the packing and
+storing of goods ordered and received finished from the factory.</p>
+
+<p>With an ascent to the second floor by a broad stairway, the
+"finishing" department of silk and fur hats is entered; this
+department occupies the entire space of this floor.<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133">133</a></span> Here the silk hat
+is made and finished complete, and the derby, whose process of
+manufacture belongs to several departments, receives its finishing
+touches, of curling and setting the brim, after which it is neatly
+nested in tissue paper and placed in paper boxes to be sent to the
+packer.</p>
+
+<p>The third floor provides three departments: that of silk and felt hat
+trimming, straw hat trimming department, and that very valuable and
+necessary auxiliary to business, the printing department. Although two
+branches of the hat business are carried on under the same roof (that
+of straw and that of silk and felt hats), they are kept entirely
+separate and distinct in all their requirements and details, which
+affords a reason for the difference in aspect of the trimming
+departments on this floor. In one, the multitude of busy hands is at
+work upon hats of black, while in the adjoining department, the many
+nimble fingers are handling the light and delicate straw and the
+bright ribbons, making a contrast of the sombre with the gay.</p>
+
+<p>Entering the next department, we find that element of development,
+that force of propulsion by means of which modern business plans are
+moved and executed&mdash;the printing press. This department is fitted and
+furnished complete with such requirements as are necessary to the
+advance of an enterprising business. A large Gordon press, propelled
+by steam power, is kept constantly in use to<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134">134</a></span> supply the vast amount
+of printing required in the details of this business. Tips, labels,
+size-marks, tickets for use in the various departments of "making,"
+"sewing," "sizing," "finishing," and "blocking." Order tickets,
+coupons, boxes and box labels and mercantile printing are but a
+portion of the work done here. In addition, a patent gas-heating press
+is used for printing in gold and silver leaf. There also emanates from
+this department a monthly trade journal, conducted under the auspices
+of the firm.</p>
+
+<p>Ascending to the fourth floor, the noisy sound of machinery is first
+heard. This is the department for sewing straw braid; here
+unquestionably centres the interest in a hat factory; the hum of a
+hundred machines quickens the pulse, and to the observer, the interest
+and astonishment increases as the wonderful machine with its lightning
+speed, guided by the magic touch of the young woman who rules it,
+draws towards itself yard after yard of the delicate strand of straw
+plait which it sews together by the finest stitch of the most slender
+thread, till suddenly a hat comes forth, complete in its full
+perfection of shape. One's surprise would not be more greatly
+heightened by a display of the magician's art. The marvel of this
+accomplishment may be effectively demonstrated by a simple statement.
+That bit of mechanism occupying a space of 10 x 12 inches, with its<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135">135</a></span>
+apparently simple arrangement of levers and cogs, merely carrying a
+needle to and fro, up and down, will do in a single minute the work an
+industrious woman with her unaided fingers could not do in less than
+an hour. That little machine is capable of doing within the working
+hours of a day the labor of sixty women; while a hundred machines in a
+factory are capable of producing the handwork of six thousand people;
+this shows the progress of<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136">136</a></span> the world, and the advance that has come
+to this branch of industry within the last thirty years.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i141.jpg" width="385" height="274" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">SEWING DEPARTMENT.</p>
+
+<p>Straw braid preparatory to being sewed is wound upon reels, from which
+it is easily fed to the sewing machine; this department of winding and
+reeling is also located upon this floor.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining is the machine room. This department is not only the
+hospital for invalid and incapacitated machines, where they receive
+the treatment required to put them in suitable working condition, but
+its field of usefulness is extended to the making of much of the
+required machinery, implements and various tools used throughout the
+establishment.</p>
+
+<p>Another flight of stairs and the fifth floor is reached. This is the
+straw hat pressing department, occupied entirely by men. Here are the
+more weighty evidences of labor and work. Heavy and powerful hydraulic
+presses are used in shaping the ordinary kinds of straw hats, and the
+necessary metal moulds that form the "dies" for these machines
+represent tons of zinc. Also in this room is row after row of benches,
+equipped for that special branch of "hand-finish," which has so
+greatly assisted in the reputation of the straw hats sent from this
+establishment. These benches each accommodate six workmen, are
+supplied with a labor-saving appliance of great merit, the<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137">137</a></span> invention
+of one of the firm's employees and at present in use only in this
+factory, which is, that by means of rubber tubes a combination of gas
+and air is carried into the pressing irons, by which heat is regulated
+to any required degree. The advantage of this may be realized when it
+is known that heretofore these press-irons were heated by "slugs" or
+pieces of iron or steel, which, drawn from the furnaces of anthracite
+coal fires, were encased in the hollow irons. By this new invention a
+remarkable saving is made, by the abandonment of the furnace, in the
+coal necessarily used, also in the not insignificant matter of time
+consumed<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138">138</a></span> by the presser in the constant replenishing of "slugs." Its
+work is acceptable to the workman and desirable for securing an
+improvement to the goods.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter">
+<img src="images/i143.jpg" width="385" height="226" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="caption">STRAW HAT FINISHING DEPARTMENT.</p>
+
+<p>The next, the sixth floor, has a department of both the straw and felt
+hat branches of the business. The finishing department of felt hats is
+a large room 150 by an average of 25 feet, closely studded on three
+sides with large windows, which at this height throw upon the workmen
+an unobstructed flood of light, affording unusual advantages for the
+most thorough perfection in the finish of these goods. This room has
+capacity for one hundred finishers, allowing generous space for each,
+giving the convenience and comfort that but few factories afford their
+work-people.</p>
+
+<p>Adjoining is the department of bleaching and dyeing of straw plaits.
+This department is supplied with all the modern conveniences for
+securing the best results. Large wooden vats receive the straw plaits
+for a thorough cleansing before it is ready for manufacture. Bleaching
+tubs are near at hand, and large copper vats with all the required
+steam attachments for dyeing the many desired colors are here
+conveniently arranged.</p>
+
+<p>Ascending still another flight of stairs, the drying department is
+reached; this is the most spacious of all the many divisions of this
+establishment, for it has the sky for a<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139">139</a></span> ceiling and unlimited space,
+being virtually upon the roof. Here, ninety feet from the ground, is
+carried on one of the important divisions of the straw hat business.
+Two large rooms, really houses in themselves, are built upon this
+roof; these are the bleach houses, which are provided with artificial
+stone floors, rendering them thoroughly secure from the chance of
+ignited brimstone coming in contact with any part of the woodwork of
+the building. The remaining space upon the roof, equal in its extent
+to two good-sized city building lots, is secured around and over by a
+substantial wire netting. Within this enclosure the hats and straw
+braids coming from the bleaching and dyeing departments are dried.</p>
+
+<p>Ascent has been provided by stairways leading from the front part of
+this building; descent is also had by the rear, where broad stairs are
+partitioned off from the work-rooms, making a continuous spacious
+hallway from top to basement&mdash;a wise precaution, taken in consideration
+of the safety of the lives of those employed. This building, capable
+of accommodating six hundred work-people, is provided with the most
+convenient means of escape in case of fire by these broad stairways at
+each end of the building.</p>
+
+<p>As additional precaution for safety, the boilers supplying the
+required steam for the various departments, as well as for the motive
+power and heat, are in a building adjoining<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140">140</a></span> the main one, but
+separated by a fire-proof brick wall, and is only accessible by
+entrance from the outside; here are located two boilers, with a
+combined capacity of one hundred horse power. Above this boiler-room
+are two departments desirable to be kept apart from the others; these
+are the moulding and casting departments, in one of which is made the
+vast number of plaster shapes and blocks required in the factory, and
+some idea may be gained of the quantity when it is here mentioned that
+this department converts annually two hundred barrels of plaster of
+Paris into hat blocks.</p>
+
+<p>In the casting department are the necessary melting furnaces and other
+requisites for casting metal "dies," parts of machinery, and the
+various things needed in a large manufacturing business.</p>
+
+<p>Two large freight elevators, reaching from basement to roof, each of
+one ton capacity and propelled by steam power, are placed in the
+building. These elevators are furnished with automatic attachments by
+which as they ascend and descend each of the floors open and close,
+thus avoiding permanent openings, the frequent cause of accidents and
+assistance in the spread of a conflagration; an additional small
+elevator gives the convenience of transmitting light packages to and
+from every floor.</p>
+
+<p>Electric bells and tubes afford telephonic communication<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141">141</a></span> with every
+department. Steam heat radiates throughout the entire building, and a
+reel of hose attached to a water supply pipe is in readiness upon each
+floor in case of fire. The length of steam, gas, and water pipes
+throughout the building is estimated at five miles. The telegraph
+call-box signals for the messenger, and the telephone, aids in the
+execution of the advanced method of reducing the detailed requirements
+of a large business to a perfectly controllable system in its
+management.</p>
+
+<p>The engine supplying the motive power for this establishment is
+located in the basement. With exception of this room, partitioned off
+for the engine, the entire space of the basement of this large
+building is used for receiving and storing raw materials used in the
+manufacture of both straw and fur hats. Here the visitor's imagination
+may indulge in a wide scope, and his thoughts wander away to many
+foreign lands, for in this store-room are found the products of nearly
+every country in the world. China is seen in its strong and durable
+straw plaits; Japan, a new and formidable rival, shows its handsome
+goods; far-off India contributing its products, while England, France
+and Belgium send their choice plaits; Italy, Germany, and Spain are
+represented, as also South America, Canada, and our own United States,
+while the Hawaiian Islands make a pretence at competition with the
+world in<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142">142</a></span> the making of straw plaits, by submitting creditable
+specimens of their native products. Furs for making derby hats are
+also here, sent by Russia, France and Germany. In observing the firm's
+connection with countries quite encompassing the entire globe, some
+idea of the extent of this business may be realized.</p>
+
+<p>Thus a fair description is here given of a thoroughly equipped hat
+factory existing in Baltimore, in the year eighteen hundred and
+eighty-nine, and the reader may realize by comparison the advance of
+improvement from the last decade of the eighteenth century to the
+commencement of the last decade of the nineteenth century.</p>
+
+<p class="h3">THE END.</p>
+
+<hr class="chap" />
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i149.jpg" width="400" height="529" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i150.jpg" width="400" height="518" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i151.jpg" width="400" height="515" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i152.jpg" width="400" height="483" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i153.jpg" width="400" height="527" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i154.jpg" width="400" height="550" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i155.jpg" width="400" height="514" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="border2" src="images/i156.jpg" width="400" height="510" alt="" />
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Baltimore Hats, by William T. Brigham
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BALTIMORE HATS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 39780-h.htm or 39780-h.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/7/8/39780/
+
+Produced by Bethanne M. Simms, Matthew Wheaton and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
+  www.gutenberg.org/license.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at 809
+North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887.  Email
+contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the
+Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:  www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For forty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
+
+
+</pre>
+
+</body>
+</html>
diff --git a/39780-h/images/cover.jpg b/39780-h/images/cover.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f0da802
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/cover.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i001.jpg b/39780-h/images/i001.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..60f8fe6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i001.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i003.jpg b/39780-h/images/i003.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..51bdaf2
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i003.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i007.jpg b/39780-h/images/i007.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5100410
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i007.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i008.jpg b/39780-h/images/i008.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c7233e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i008.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i009.jpg b/39780-h/images/i009.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..44cac67
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i009.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i011.jpg b/39780-h/images/i011.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..346871c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i011.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i012.jpg b/39780-h/images/i012.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9c8bb6c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i012.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i013.jpg b/39780-h/images/i013.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..a9ec039
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i013.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i015.jpg b/39780-h/images/i015.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..3c75188
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i015.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i016.jpg b/39780-h/images/i016.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7abfc8f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i016.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i017.jpg b/39780-h/images/i017.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..789dabe
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i017.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i018.jpg b/39780-h/images/i018.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..411c478
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i018.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i019.jpg b/39780-h/images/i019.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..681604c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i019.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i020.jpg b/39780-h/images/i020.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8b60332
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i020.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i021.jpg b/39780-h/images/i021.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ab25822
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i021.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i027.jpg b/39780-h/images/i027.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..94718fa
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i027.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i028.jpg b/39780-h/images/i028.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0611588
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i028.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i029.jpg b/39780-h/images/i029.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9167b07
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i029.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i036.jpg b/39780-h/images/i036.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bd9d430
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i036.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i037.jpg b/39780-h/images/i037.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d2b9590
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i037.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i042.jpg b/39780-h/images/i042.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2ad3d17
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i042.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i043.jpg b/39780-h/images/i043.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..34f90cc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i043.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i044.jpg b/39780-h/images/i044.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4b844f7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i044.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i047.jpg b/39780-h/images/i047.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b811aba
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i047.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i051.jpg b/39780-h/images/i051.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f0bc602
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i051.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i052.jpg b/39780-h/images/i052.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5ae9663
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i052.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i053.jpg b/39780-h/images/i053.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4d287ee
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i053.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i059.jpg b/39780-h/images/i059.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..182ea7e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i059.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i060.jpg b/39780-h/images/i060.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..29f29f3
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i060.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i064.jpg b/39780-h/images/i064.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8ed7e5e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i064.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i067.jpg b/39780-h/images/i067.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..17536f0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i067.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i068.jpg b/39780-h/images/i068.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..17ba3f1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i068.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i070.jpg b/39780-h/images/i070.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..554c08b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i070.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i072.jpg b/39780-h/images/i072.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..246105d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i072.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i073.jpg b/39780-h/images/i073.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6e45ce1
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i073.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i080.jpg b/39780-h/images/i080.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..efc87f4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i080.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i086.jpg b/39780-h/images/i086.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0539519
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i086.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i092.jpg b/39780-h/images/i092.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..01c4bb8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i092.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i093.jpg b/39780-h/images/i093.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0bd44be
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i093.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i099.jpg b/39780-h/images/i099.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..cbaeeb8
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i099.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i100.jpg b/39780-h/images/i100.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..5e0bc54
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i100.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i107.jpg b/39780-h/images/i107.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..91662ad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i107.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i108.jpg b/39780-h/images/i108.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c2cf76
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i108.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i111.jpg b/39780-h/images/i111.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7fa768f
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i111.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i112.jpg b/39780-h/images/i112.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..06efd6c
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i112.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i119.jpg b/39780-h/images/i119.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f2102dc
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i119.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i120.jpg b/39780-h/images/i120.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f119c27
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i120.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i126.jpg b/39780-h/images/i126.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b83c0c7
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i126.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i127.jpg b/39780-h/images/i127.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..ca89d0e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i127.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i128.jpg b/39780-h/images/i128.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f57d10d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i128.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i130.jpg b/39780-h/images/i130.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..d61c47d
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i130.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i132.jpg b/39780-h/images/i132.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..b6f4ff0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i132.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i133.jpg b/39780-h/images/i133.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..4467395
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i133.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i134.jpg b/39780-h/images/i134.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..766a392
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i134.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i135.jpg b/39780-h/images/i135.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..941ed68
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i135.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i137.jpg b/39780-h/images/i137.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0989e0b
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i137.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i141.jpg b/39780-h/images/i141.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..9db22b5
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i141.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i143.jpg b/39780-h/images/i143.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..85a9aa4
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i143.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i149.jpg b/39780-h/images/i149.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..bb058ea
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i149.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i150.jpg b/39780-h/images/i150.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..2c7345a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i150.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i151.jpg b/39780-h/images/i151.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..620d121
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i151.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i152.jpg b/39780-h/images/i152.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..7803821
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i152.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i153.jpg b/39780-h/images/i153.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..0be3e9a
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i153.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i154.jpg b/39780-h/images/i154.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..aeec9e6
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i154.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i155.jpg b/39780-h/images/i155.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..668cecb
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i155.jpg
diff --git a/39780-h/images/i156.jpg b/39780-h/images/i156.jpg
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..8c5473e
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780-h/images/i156.jpg
diff --git a/39780.txt b/39780.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..343e7ad
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,3601 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Baltimore Hats, by William T. Brigham
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Baltimore Hats
+       Past and Present
+
+Author: William T. Brigham
+
+Release Date: May 23, 2012 [EBook #39780]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BALTIMORE HATS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Bethanne M. Simms, Matthew Wheaton and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+    BALTIMORE HATS
+
+    PAST AND PRESENT.
+
+
+    AN HISTORICAL SKETCH OF THE HAT INDUSTRY OF BALTIMORE
+    FROM ITS EARLIEST DAYS TO THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+
+    BY
+
+    WILLIAM T. BRIGHAM.
+
+
+    _PRINTED FOR GRATUITOUS CIRCULATION ONLY._
+
+
+    BALTIMORE:
+    MDCCCLXXXX.
+
+
+    COPYRIGHTED, 1890, BY WM. T. BRIGHAM.
+
+    _Press and Bindery of
+    Isaac Friedenwald, Baltimore, Md._
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+It is not impossible that some useful information may be conveyed by
+this book. Should these pages prove of such service, their cost in
+labor is most cheerfully donated.
+
+This volume is composed of a series of articles which appeared in a
+Trade Journal, covering a period of two years from 1887 to 1889. It
+must be accepted as but a brief history of an industry long identified
+with Baltimore.
+
+Thanks are due the Librarian of the Maryland Historical Society and
+Mr. B. R. Sheriff for favors in lending rare and valuable old City
+directories; also to the many citizens who kindly aided and assisted
+in the search for needed information.
+
+THE AUTHOR.
+
+BALTIMORE, 1890.
+
+
+
+
+    CONTENTS.
+
+
+     1. INTRODUCTORY
+     2. EARLY DAYS
+     3. PERIOD OF THE REVOLUTION
+     4. AFTER THE REVOLUTION
+     5. EARLY IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY
+     6. SOME OLD FIRMS
+     7. PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE
+     8. JACOB ROGERS
+     9. OLD METHODS
+    10. JOHN PETTICORD
+    11. MIDDLE OF THE CENTURY
+    12. FASHIONS
+    13. NEW DEVELOPMENTS
+    14. GROWTH OF BUSINESS
+    15. HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT
+    16. MODERN IMPROVEMENTS
+    17. A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT
+    18. WAYS AND MEANS OF THE PRESENT TIME
+
+
+
+
+Baltimore Hats--Past and Present.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+No. 1.
+
+
+Past and present have each their independent significance. The past
+gives freely to us the experiences of others, the present a suitable
+opportunity to improve upon what has already occurred. With our
+observation and acceptance of these privileges so easily obtained, we
+reap the benefit of their advantages and unconsciously find ourselves
+the gainers both in capacity and intelligence. A history of the past,
+giving the record of events and circumstances existing before our own
+day, bringing to our knowledge the accomplishments, business
+enterprises and undertakings of our predecessors, is a profitable
+study, and the reader gratifies his curiosity in observing how
+differently things were conducted and managed a century ago as
+compared with the processes of the present day, exciting a sense of
+wonder at the rapid progress that has been made in a comparatively
+short period of time. Think of it! quite within the lifetime of many
+of us have been the most wonderful of inventions--the steam engine,
+steam vessels, the telegraph and other wonders and triumphs of
+electricity. The wildest fancy may not be styled visionary in
+anticipating the appearance of things still more surprising.
+
+[Illustration: THEN.]
+
+[Illustration: NOW.]
+
+Continued familiarity with the present system of making hats has the
+tendency in a great degree to prevent a recognition, until brought to
+our notice by comparison of the wide difference existing between the
+old and new methods, and this common every-day experience assists in
+making us unappreciative of the remarkable improvements that have been
+made in this branch of business.
+
+Only a half a century ago the time required to make a single fur hat
+from the prepared material was fully a week, and the average
+production was two hats per day per man. With the bowing of the fur,
+the forming and shrinking of the bodies, and the handwork of finishing
+and trimming, all of which by the aid of modern science and invention
+is to-day done by machinery more perfectly and completely at the rate
+in production of twenty times that of fifty years ago, while the
+sewing of a straw hat, which could hardly be done in an hour by the
+plodding work of the hand, stitch by stitch, is, by the rapid
+sewing-machine, made in a minute. When we think of the largest number
+of stitches our mothers and sisters could take in their needlework by
+hand and contrast it with the result of the sewing-machine that spins
+its twenty-two hundred stitches a minute, we are able to gain some
+adequate idea of the saving of labor, and while we complacently accept
+these marvellous accomplishments, the question whether it be to the
+poor and needy a loss or gain is still an undecided problem. With all
+the advantages now at our command, it appears to us a matter of
+surprise how our forefathers, with their apparently indifferent
+methods, could profitably succeed in their labors. With steam engines,
+sewing-machines and electricity, the quick accomplishments of the
+present compared with the slow movements of the past tend to make one
+think we are living in an age of wonders amounting almost to
+miracles.
+
+What would be the exclamation of the ghosts of our great-grandfathers
+who, with the rapid trot of an ox-team, drove to church miles away
+through the storms of winter to exemplify their devotion to the truth
+of their faith, if suddenly they could rise and observe the luxury of
+the present modes of transportation in convenient palace cars and
+palatial steamships, our comfortable and gaudy churches, and our easy
+ways of communicating instantly with those thousands of miles away
+from us? Aladdin's wonderful experiences, or the magical change by
+Cinderella's fairy god-mother, would appear tame to their intense
+surprise.
+
+[Illustration: RAPID TRANSIT IN OLDEN TIMES.]
+
+In a series of articles it is proposed to give an account of the
+growth of the hat manufacturing business, one of the most interesting
+of Baltimore's industries; how at an early period it was raised into
+conspicuous prominence in common with other enterprises undertaken in
+the active spirit which has always characterized Baltimore merchants
+as among the foremost of their time. They will also treat of its
+gradual growth and development, followed by a temporary decline of
+progress caused by the Civil War and its consequences, and finally of
+its triumphant stride to place itself again in line with other leading
+industries of this enterprising metropolis, for without doubt it holds
+to-day an enviable position among the different trades, a position
+acquired by the thoroughness, determination and perseverance of those
+engaged in its development.
+
+[Illustration: AN OLD TIMER.]
+
+
+
+
+EARLY DAYS.
+
+No. 2.
+
+
+The spirit of ambition and independence constituting the fundamental
+principles of manhood, and inspiring a nobleness of character which in
+time of the country's struggle for liberty helped to give her the
+benefits of wise counsel, noble patriotism and manly service, was
+early manifested by the neighboring colony of Virginia, as in the year
+1662 she ventured upon a practical plan to encourage the manufacture
+of hats by offering a premium of ten pounds of tobacco for every
+domestic hat made of fur or wool. What resulted from this generous act
+we are not informed, but there is no evidence that it in any degree
+stimulated the production of hats in that colony, and it is a noted
+fact that hat-making to any extent has never flourished south of
+Baltimore. This city seems to have been the southern boundary
+line--the geographical limit in that direction--of hat-manufacturing.
+As an offset to this enterprising manifesto of Virginia is a petition
+in the year 1731 of the hat-makers of London to the "Lords of Trade,"
+to enact a law forbidding the American colonists to wear hats not made
+in Great Britain. This law was passed, attaching a penalty of five
+hundred pounds sterling (twenty-five hundred dollars) for its
+violation.
+
+The archives of the New Jersey Historical Society for the year 1731
+show that there was one hatter in that colony, and from a history of
+Boston we learn that sixteen hat-makers of that town were affected by
+the edict of these despotic English law-makers.
+
+In this manner were the enterprises of the new continent checked and
+the attempt made to crush out that spirit of progress so manifest in
+the brightest of the English colonies. It was the continuation of such
+injustice and oppression that eventually inspired a rebellious spirit
+to take the place of patience and submission, ending in a revolt, the
+termination of which secured us liberty and justice and the
+announcement of our complete independence on the 4th of July, 1776.
+
+The style of hat of this period (1731) had the sides of the brim
+turned up, with a front of an easy curl, which, nearly resembling a
+cap-visor, made it in shape somewhat between a hat and cap; this seems
+to have been the first approach toward the "cocked" or three-cornered
+hat afterwards so extensively used, and to Americans the most familiar
+of past styles, from its being a fashion of the period of the
+Revolution, by which it became the prominent part of an historical
+costume. The arbitrary law before alluded to was afterwards modified,
+but an uncomfortable restriction continued to be enforced upon all
+manufactures, for in the year 1750 the English Parliament, among other
+unjust acts, enacted a law forbidding exportation of hats from one
+colony to another and allowing no hatter to have more than two
+apprentices at one time, "because the colonists, if let alone, would
+soon supply the whole world with hats."
+
+[Illustration: 1731]
+
+The French fashion of this time had the brazen characteristic of its
+brim rising erect from the forehead, a style seemingly in keeping with
+the then irritable condition and reckless agitation of the French
+people.
+
+Planche, in his "Cyclopaedia of Costumes" (vol. 1, page 261), quotes a
+humorous description, evidently referring to this particular style, as
+follows: "Some wear their hats with the corners that should cover the
+forehead high in the air, these are called Gawkies; others do not half
+cover their heads, which, indeed, is owing to the shallowness of their
+crowns, but between beaver and eyebrows exposes a blank forehead,
+which looks like a sandy road in a surveyor's plan."
+
+[Illustration: 1750]
+
+From the year 1750 until after the Revolution there was but little
+change in the general character of style in men's hats: the custom of
+erecting the brims by tying or looping them up prevailed. Soon the
+elevation of the brim of 1750 was abandoned and a change made by
+looping it at the points of a triangle, producing the three-cornered
+or "cocked" hat. This was a becoming style we must admit, and one
+seemingly well suited to the independent, fearless and patriotic
+characteristics of our forefathers' traits, the possession of which at
+that time gave us all the comforts that are ours now. The "cocked" hat
+enjoyed a long popularity, continuing in fashion until near the close
+of the century, when the "steeple top" and "chimney pot" styles--slang
+terms for the high beavers--came into vogue, a style which Ashton, an
+English writer, designates as "the hideous head-covering that has
+martyrized at least three generations."
+
+[Illustration: 1760]
+
+Departure from settled and accustomed styles created the same furore
+and astonishment, and subjected the venturesome individual whose
+inclinations led an advance in fashion to the same exposure to
+ridicule as affects the "swell" of the present day, and the reporters
+of "society doings" then were as close observers, as keen in wit, and
+as unmerciful in criticism as any of their kin to-day. Planche,
+quoting from the _London Chronicle_ for 1762, refers to fashion of
+hats at that time as follows: "Hats," says the writer, "are now worn
+on the average six and three-fifths inches broad in the brim and
+cocked. Some have their hats open like a church spout or like the
+scales they weigh their coffee in; some wear them rather sharp like
+the nose of the greyhound, and we can designate by the taste of the
+hat the mood of the wearer's mind. There is a military cock and a
+mercantile cock, and while the beaux of St. James wear their hats
+under their arms, the beaux of Moorfields-Mall wear theirs diagonally
+over the left or right eye; sailors wear their hats uniformly tucked
+down to the crown, and look as if they carried a triangular apple
+pasty upon their heads."
+
+That "there is nothing new under the sun" is a maxim the truth of
+which is often verified within the limits of fashionable manners; thus
+the counterpart of the present captivating custom of carrying in the
+public ball-room or at the private party the collapsed "opera" hat
+under the arm is seen in the fashion of 1762, the only difference
+being, not as now, to doff the hat in the house, but when promenading
+the street the beau was to be seen with
+
+    "A pretty black beaver tucked under his arm,
+    If placed on his head it might keep him too warm."
+
+[Illustration: Folded Hat, 1762.]
+
+[Illustration: The 'Opera', 1887.]
+
+The folded hat of 1762 differed from the opera hat of the present day
+also in the softness of the crown, permitting its being flattened, and
+the brim, as if hinged front and rear, folded at the sides like the
+corners of a book, while the present opera hat, constructed with
+jointed springs, allows its cylindrical crown to be flattened down to
+a level with the brim, which keeps its fixed shape.
+
+Scharf's "Chronicles of Baltimore" give the copy of an inventory made
+in the year 1779 of the personal effects of one Thos. Edgerton, a
+citizen of the Province of Maryland, and among them is his hat,
+described as having a gold band and feathers. This hat evidently was
+the celebrated cavalier style that appears in many of the portraits of
+Rubens, Vandycke and Rembrandt, of all styles the prettiest and most
+picturesque ever introduced.
+
+The wide brim of the cavalier hat was arranged as suited the fancy of
+the wearer, some of whom allowed it to take its natural shape, some
+would wear it looped up on the side, and by others it was caught up
+and attached to the crown at different angles; in fact, it was modeled
+very much as the ladies now-a-days do the "Gainsborough," exercising
+their own individual fancy as to the treatment of the brim.
+
+[Illustration: The 'Cavalier', 1689]
+
+Identical with the interests of Baltimore were the industries of other
+towns of the colony of Maryland, and among the earliest records
+referring to the hat business are several advertisements found in the
+_Maryland Gazette_, published at Annapolis. In February, 1760, Chas.
+Diggs advertises "men's and boys' castor and felt hats." In 1761
+Barnet West advertises "gold and silver band hats, just imported from
+London," and in April, 1761, appears the advertisement of Nathaniel
+Waters, of Annapolis, who announces that he has for sale "silver and
+gold buttons and loops for hats, and that he carries on the hat-making
+as usual."
+
+About this time Annapolis, being in her palmy days, was the center of
+gentility and fashionable life; here was congregated the blue blood of
+English aristocracy, who strove to foster and cultivate the same
+courtly splendor and etiquette existing in old England, which brought
+to the venerable place the enviable fame of being considered the most
+fashionable of our colonial towns.
+
+[Illustration: THE BEAU OF 1762.]
+
+
+
+
+PERIOD OF THE REVOLUTION.
+
+No. 3.
+
+
+An indulgence of those inborn habits of luxury and fondness for rich
+and expensive dress by the wealthy land owners, comprising the large
+majority of the population of the Southern colonies, encouraged a
+demand for articles more elaborate and costly than those produced
+within the colonial territory; hence imported fabrics were by them
+largely preferred to those of domestic make. The gay and festive
+social life, and the means easily acquired from their profitable crops
+of cotton and tobacco, permitted indulgence in lavish expenditures for
+articles of fashionable attire and household elegance.
+
+The general customs of the people of the South had the effect of
+retarding the progress of ordinary trades by not affording sufficient
+patronage to encourage their successful undertaking; while, on the
+contrary, from the greater necessity with the Northern people of
+personal exertion and labor to provide the comforts of home life,
+sprung that support of manufactures which has so largely increased as
+to place the power and wealth of the country in their hands.
+
+The event of the American Revolution, however, somewhat changed this
+aspect of affairs. The genuineness of Maryland's loyalty was certainly
+in one way nobly demonstrated, and by an act of patriotic
+self-sacrifice, gave to her an unlooked-for reward in a prosperous
+future. Her people quickly espousing the cause of liberty, at once
+rejected articles of foreign make and gave choice to those of home
+production, thus stimulating industries in their midst which had not
+before flourished from lack of encouragement and support.
+
+Actuated by a feeling of sympathy for their fellow-citizens of
+Boston--whom the British Parliament in 1774 attempted to shut out from
+commercial intercourse with every part of the world--the citizens of
+Baltimore called a town meeting, unanimously recommending a general
+congress of delegates, to meet at Annapolis, to take action against
+this indignity on American liberties.
+
+The congress met June 22, 1774, offering their heartiest support not
+only in resolution, but in the more substantial way of money and food,
+as aid to their Boston friends in the resistance to British tyranny
+and oppression, supplementing these patriotic resolutions by one
+making the importation of English goods an act disloyal to the
+sentiment of American hearts.
+
+The earliest manufacturing hatter in Baltimore, of whom any definite
+knowledge can be obtained, was David Shields, who kept store at No. 14
+Gay street. As the location was on the east side of Gay and the
+seventh house from the corner of Baltimore street, it probably was
+about half-way between Baltimore and Fayette streets. Here he sold to
+his patrons the products of his "back shop" or factory, which was
+located on the south side of East, now Fayette street, at a point
+half-way between Gay and Frederick streets. Mr. Shields' father was
+from Pennsylvania. David Shields was born in the year 1737, and his
+descendants of to-day include some of the wealthiest and most refined
+citizens of Baltimore. In Scharf's "Chronicles of Baltimore" his name
+is mentioned, in connection with others, in the year 1769 as aiding by
+a general subscription in procuring an engine for the extinguishment
+of fires; this engine was for the "Mechanical Fire Company," and was
+the first machine of its kind in Baltimore, costing the sum of two
+hundred and sixty-four dollars.
+
+Unfortunately, the information gained of Mr. Shields' business career
+is so meagre as to leave much to the imagination, but it is natural to
+suppose that in 1769, being thirty-two years of age, he must have
+been established in business.
+
+That Mr. Shields was a public-spirited citizen is further proven by
+his connection with the First Baptist Society, being one of a
+committee constituted for the purpose of purchasing a lot upon which
+to erect a church; this was in 1773, two years before the Revolution.
+The church was built on Front street, upon the site now occupied by
+the Merchants' Shot Tower, and was the first Baptist Church erected in
+Baltimore.
+
+The _Federal Gazette_ announces the death of Mr. Shields, October 4,
+1811, in the seventy-fourth year of his age; his funeral taking place
+from his residence, which was over his place of business, on Gay
+street.
+
+What may have been the actual condition of the hat business of
+Baltimore just before the Revolution has been difficult to ascertain.
+Mr. Shields must have been in business during this period, and it is
+more than probable that in a town of the size of Baltimore at that
+date there must have been others engaged in this branch of business,
+but how many and who they were cannot be ascertained. It is very
+likely that the restriction placed by English rule upon most
+manufacturing industries prior to the Revolution operated
+detrimentally upon this industry also, and while the ordinary kind of
+wool felt hats were made by the hatter in his own shop, undoubtedly
+most of the fashionable hats sold and worn at that time were of
+English or French make. Paris (which then, as well as now, was the
+axis upon which revolved the world of fashion) possibly supplied the
+wants of Baltimore's highborn gentry, always famous for exquisite
+dress and refined taste, with the French chapeau--the _ton_ of those
+days.
+
+As there are no existing detailed statistics of the business of
+Baltimore during the Revolutionary War, the record of some business
+firms has been entirely lost, and although some trades have received
+slight mention in the published histories of the city, a trace of the
+existence of but two hatters, who afterwards continued in business, is
+to be found. Since it is known as a fact that fourteen hatters were
+engaged in business in Baltimore, not later than ten years after the
+close of the war, we have a right to suppose that more than two must
+have been in business during the existence of the war.
+
+Among the proceedings of the "Council of Safety" of Maryland,
+organized at the outbreak of the war, is found the following order:
+"March 2, 1776. The Council of Safety authorize Major Gist to contract
+for fifty camp-kettles and as many _hats_ as may be necessary for the
+battalion, not to exceed 7 shillings apiece." Again, April 6, 1776,
+"Commissary of Stores of Baltimore is ordered to send to Annapolis 200
+of the hats arrived from Philadelphia." Why Baltimore hatters did not
+supply the needed hats for Maryland militia we cannot say, but
+probably a sharp competition for so _large_ a contract wrested it from
+them.
+
+The adoption of the "cocked" hat in its various forms as a portion of
+the military costume of the Continental Army brought about the
+necessity of making a distinction between civil and military wear.
+
+After the close of the American Revolution France was in a state of
+civil insurrection, and the French "chapeau" of that time was
+constructed upon a plan somewhat similar to that of the "cocked" hat.
+With the termination of the French Revolution appeared the
+"steeple-top" hat, having a conical crown with stiff curled brim,
+drooping front and rear, being trimmed with a very wide band and
+ornamented in front with a huge metal buckle, a change radical enough
+from those preceding it, but admitting a question as to its
+comparative intrinsic beauty or to its being a more becoming part of
+male attire; the style withal certainly proved acceptable, for with
+slight modifications it has continued and is now embodied in the
+fashionable silk hat of the present time.
+
+Thus with the opening of the nineteenth century commenced the era of
+what may be correctly termed the _high_ hat. Ashton, in "Old Times,"
+says of the style of 1790-95: "The 'cocked' hat had gone out, and the
+galling yoke of the 'chimney pot' was being inaugurated, which was as
+yet of limp felt."
+
+[Illustration: 1795]
+
+In fashions prevailing at the opening of the new century, particularly
+those of wearing apparel both for ladies and gentlemen, Paris took the
+lead, and though with many articles to-day Parisian designs and ideas
+secure the largest share of popularity, yet in regard to hats for
+gentlemen it can proudly be said that American-made hats are ahead in
+point of style and quality, and are no longer dependent upon foreign
+ingenuity for assistance in securing for them a ready sale; in fact,
+no American industry to-day stands in a more enviable position
+relatively to foreign manufactures than does that of hat-making.
+
+The fancy for sentimental hits and political phrases indulged in by
+modern hatters seems to have been the rage at an earlier period, as is
+evident from the following, published in the London _Times_ of
+December 4, 1795: "If the young men of the present day have not much
+wit in their heads they have it at least in their _hats_." Among the
+pleasantries we have seen in this way are the following: "Not yours,"
+"Hands off," "No vermin," and "Rip this as you would a hot potato,"
+and other charming sallies of _refined_ and _elegant_ vivacity.
+
+But the wittiest linings are the political ones. The other day we
+observed one perfectly clean and tidy in which was written: "Avaunt!
+Guinea Pig," and on the lining of a very powdery hat that lay in the
+window of the same room were inscribed the two monosyllables
+"Off-crop." "Guinea pig" and "Off-crop" were probably local political
+distinctions of the day.
+
+[Illustration: A CITIZEN OF '76.]
+
+
+
+
+AFTER THE REVOLUTION.
+
+No. 4.
+
+
+Not until after the Revolution is it apparent that any attempt was
+made in Baltimore to concentrate the hatting industry into a
+legitimate business upon any extensive scale, or to separate the
+manufacturing from the retail branch of business; in fact, far into
+the new century was it the practice of those who manufactured
+extensively for the trade, to continue to keep in operation also a
+_retail_ establishment.
+
+The general system of conducting the hat business at the time of which
+we are now writing was for the hatter to have his "back shop" in the
+rear and accessible to the "front shop," where the proprietor and his
+"prentice hand" made the needed supply for the existing or future
+small demand likely to come; for hats in those days were "built" for
+service, not for show, and in a manner quite different from those
+suited to the modern requirement of almost a monthly change in style.
+Then the principle demand came from maturing youth, desiring to assume
+suitable dignity for entrance into manhood, by procuring a "beaver"
+which, unless he lived to a patriarchal age, might serve him during
+his natural life, and that, too, without fear of banishment from
+society for being out of the fashion.
+
+In the first "Baltimore City Directory," printed in the year 1796,
+appear the names of nineteen hatters; the business locations of some
+of the number, it is curious to observe, being at places hardly
+recognizable by those living at the present day.
+
+Gay street, prior to the year 1808, extended from the water to
+Griffith's bridge (now called Gay-street bridge), beyond which it was
+called Bridge street; German lane is now German street; East street is
+Fayette street, and the euphonious name of Cowpen alley is now
+dignified by that of Garrett street. Baltimore street was then called
+Market street, and for a long time after was often designated by
+either name.
+
+The following names and localities of hatters are found in the
+Baltimore City Directory published in 1796:
+
+    RICHARD AVERSON, German lane, between Howard and Liberty streets.
+    JOSEPH BURNET, Welcome alley, Federal Hill.
+    PETER BOND, 13 Bridge street, Old Town.
+    WILLIAM BRANSON, 131 Market street.
+    PETER BEZE, 31 Charles street.
+    FREDERICK DEEMS, Cowpen alley.
+    JOSEPH BURNESTON, 17 George street, Fell's Point.
+              "       Shop, 19 George street, Fell's Point.
+    GEORGE LITTIG, 141 Market street, Shop on "The Causeway."
+    ARNOLD LIVERS, Shop, 24 South Calvert street.
+    AARON MATTISON, Shop, East street, between Calvert and Gay.
+    WILLIAM MOCKBEE, East street, between St. Paul's lane and Charles
+        street.
+    GASPER MORELLI, 36 Charles street.
+    JOHN PARKS, Shop, 14 Light street.
+    JACOB ROGERS, 29 South street.
+    GEORGE SMITH, 101 Bond street.
+    DAVID SHIELDS, 14 North Gay street.
+    JOHN STEIGER, 250 Market street.
+    JOHN UNDERWOOD, Alley between St. Paul's lane and Calvert street.
+    DANIEL WEAVER, 19 Front street.
+
+Judging from localities here given, ten of this number were engaged in
+business as principals, the others were probably journeymen, working
+at their trade in the various shops in the town.
+
+JOHN PARKS, who did business at 14 Light street, had his residence at
+137 Market street, about the location now occupied by Clogg & Son as a
+Shoe store. In the year 1802, No. 137 Market street was occupied by
+John Walraven, Hardware and Silversmith, and John and Andrew Parks are
+in the Dry-goods business, at No. 2 Market space.
+
+WILLIAM BRANSON, at 131 Market street, appears to have continued
+business in the same place up to the year 1810. During the years
+1800-2 the firm was Branson & Son; their store was the second house
+west of Grant street, then called Public alley; the place is now
+occupied by Geo. Steinbach & Son as a Toy establishment.
+
+AARON MATTISON, whose shop, in 1796, was on East street, in 1799
+associated his son with himself in business, locating at 16 North Gay
+street, next door to David Shields. In 1802 Wm. Mattison, probably the
+son, opened a store at 180 Market street; the firm continuing at 16 N.
+Gay street as Aaron Mattison & Son. The next year W. Mattison appears
+at 72 Market street, following which no further record is found of
+this firm.
+
+No. 180 Market street was two doors east of Charles, on the north
+side, now occupied by Towner & Landstreet's Rubber store. No. 72
+Market street was also on the north side, second house east from
+Lemon, now Holliday street.
+
+PETER BOND, whose location was No. 13 Bridge street, continued as a
+hatter in the same place until the year 1806; afterwards he appears to
+have changed the character of his business, for in 1807 he is found to
+be a "storekeeper" at No. 9 Bridge street. No. 13 was on the north
+side of what is now Gay street, the seventh or eighth house beyond the
+bridge over the Falls. Peter Bond was a member of the committee of
+"Vigilance and Safety" organized by the citizens of Baltimore in the
+dark days of anxiety and trouble preceding the invasion of the city by
+the British in September, 1814.
+
+RICHARD AVERSON had his residence on German lane, between Howard and
+Eutaw streets. At that time there was but one dwelling-house on German
+lane between Hanover and Liberty streets. German lane, now German
+street, then extended only from Charles to Greene street. Mr. Averson
+kept his hat store at No. 4 County wharf, which was the lower terminus
+of South Calvert street; he had for his neighbors Gerard T. Hopkins,
+Peter Cox and George Mason, Grocers.
+
+DAVID SHIELDS continued in business at his old locality, 14 North Gay
+street, certainly until the year 1808, and probably up to the time of
+his death in 1811. In 1819 his place is found to be occupied by
+Francis Foster as a hat store.
+
+ARNOLD LIVERS would seem to have been the most peripatetic of hatters,
+and must have caused no little stir and comment among his
+fellow-tradesmen. Until 1801 he appears as solitary Arnold Livers,
+carrying on the hat business at 24 South Calvert street, where
+probably he had a retail "shop." In 1802 the Directory records:
+"Arnold Livers, 24 South Calvert street," and on Fayette street
+(probably his residence), also 70 Cumberland Row; Livers & Atkinson,
+35 Fell street, and Livers & Atkinson, 10 George street, Fell's Point.
+In 1804 Arnold Livers is still at 24 South Calvert street, also at 70
+Market space, and George Atkinson has succeeded to the firm of Livers
+& Atkinson. In 1810 it is Livers & Grover, 39 South, corner of Water
+street. From this time Mr. Livers disappears entirely; one may imagine
+what a commotion this evidently unsettled man of business must have
+raised during ten years of these varied and numerous changes, and
+possibly others of which the Directories give no account.
+
+So rapidly and effectively does time erase the evidence of former
+labors, and so quickly is the past forgotten, that one is surprised
+and disappointed at not finding more proof on record of what these
+worthy apostles of work may have done.
+
+Of the nineteen whose names are in the Directory of 1796, traces of
+the personal history of but two of the number can be found: these are
+David Shields, before alluded to, and John Parks. In Griffith's
+"Annals of Baltimore," John Parks is mentioned in the year 1784 as
+subscribing ten pounds to the funds raised by citizens for the purpose
+of elevating the courthouse to admit the extension of Calvert street.
+Then the courthouse stood in the bed of Calvert street, which it
+spanned, where since has been erected and now stands Battle Monument,
+commemorating the loss of Baltimore's brave citizens, who gave their
+lives in defence of their homes against British invasion in 1814.
+
+Among the patriots whose names are inscribed upon this monument by a
+grateful people, desiring in such way to honor and perpetuate the
+memory of those who sacrificed themselves in the defence of their
+homes and firesides, appears that of JOSEPH BURNESTON, a hatter, who
+is found in 1796 doing business at 19 George street, Fell's Point.
+Thus, while little else is known of Mr. Burneston's career, he is
+immortalized by a noble deed, and his name is handed down to coming
+generations to show what sacrifices were made in securing to us that
+freedom and comfort we now possess, sacrifices which should inspire us
+with the determination that when similar calls come we will be ready
+to answer as unhesitatingly as did this patriotic hatter.
+
+From the location of Mr. Burneston's place of business it may be
+inferred that he was only a hat-maker, having no "front shop" or
+retail establishment, but was merely a maker of hat bodies to be sold
+to retailers, who themselves finished and trimmed them ready for sale.
+
+Of the hatters of 1796 there is but one through whom can be
+connectedly traced Baltimore's hat industry from before the Revolution
+down to the present time; that one is JACOB ROGERS, whose
+long-continued business career brings personal knowledge of him down
+to a time quite within the recollection of some now living. Singularly
+enough, by this solitary instance are we able to connect hatting in
+1769 with that of 1890, for it is known that Mr. Rogers learned his
+trade with Mr. David Shields, who was in business in 1769, and engaged
+in their occupation to-day are several who were apprenticed to Mr.
+Rogers.
+
+[Illustration: IN READINESS.]
+
+
+
+
+EARLY IN THE XIX CENTURY.
+
+No. 5.
+
+
+So wonderful were the recuperative powers of the American people,
+after undergoing the trials and sacrifices consequent upon a
+protracted struggle for liberty, as to surprise the most sanguine
+advocates of self-government.
+
+Following the train of war came ruin and desolation, but freedom was
+the birthright of the people, who, though sorely tried by a tremendous
+outlay in blood and money, were by no means disheartened or
+discouraged, and without delay they cheerfully took in hand the task
+of renovation with the same resolute determination that characterized
+the conflict with their enemies.
+
+The contributions of Maryland to the country's wants during the war
+were always generous in both men and money. Baltimore, after
+recovering from the exhaustion consequent upon her constant
+participation in the seven long years' contest for freedom, commenced
+the foundation of her future commercial greatness, and early in the
+present century she had attained a commerce greater in extent than
+that of many older seaport towns. Baltimore "clippers" were celebrated
+for their marvelous speed, and their white sails were to be seen in
+the ports of every foreign nation.
+
+Baltimore kept steadily advancing in population and wealth; compared
+with her rivals, she was precocious. The town was settled in the year
+1730, and its increase shows evidence of growth that must have created
+a surprise in its early days similar to that now experienced by the
+development in a few weeks of a full-fledged Western city, with its
+thousands of inhabitants, from its humble foundation of a few
+straggling hamlets. New York was settled in 1614, Boston in 1630,
+Philadelphia in 1682, each being well on in existence before Baltimore
+was born.
+
+At the close of the Revolutionary War the population of Baltimore was
+5000; in 1800 it was 26,614. The first United States census, taken in
+1810, places the number at 35,580, and in 1820 it had grown to be a
+prosperous commercial city of 62,738 inhabitants.
+
+The persistent patriotism of Baltimore throughout the Revolutionary
+War was proverbial; the strong intelligence of a majority of its
+citizens, though of foreign birth, gave them an intuitive knowledge of
+the distinction between right and wrong, and a fine sense of honor and
+justice prompted them to act as well as theorize, consequently their
+personal convictions as to the allegiance they owed their adopted
+country enabled the city of their choice to assume a strong and
+patriotic attitude in behalf of America's struggle, and incited them
+to act with the native element in expelling from their midst all who
+indulged in hostile acts or expressions. But one sentiment prevailed
+in Baltimore during the period of the war--that of loyalty to country.
+The courteous attention and honor paid by citizens to many of those
+who attained distinction in the war lent great assistance to Baltimore
+in quickly recovering from the damage she had sustained, and gave to
+the city a renown for hospitality which has remained by her to the
+present day.
+
+Washington, Lafayette, Count Rochambeau, and many others united in
+unrestricted praises of Baltimore's patriotism and liberality, and
+General Vallette, who commanded a French division of troops, declared:
+"I will never forget the happy days I have passed among you, citizens
+of Baltimore, and I beg you will believe that your remembrance will be
+forever dear to my memory."
+
+The famous General Greene, of Rhode Island, on his way homeward from
+the war in the South, stopped in Baltimore and gave his impression of
+the city in 1783 as follows:
+
+"Baltimore is a most thriving place. Trade nourishes, and the spirit
+of building exceeds belief. Not less than three hundred houses are put
+up in a year. Ground rents are little short of what they are in
+London. The inhabitants are all men of business."
+
+The period from 1800-30, although interrupted by the war of 1812, when
+the city was made the immediate battle-ground, was marked by a
+wonderful growth in both commercial and industrial occupations, and,
+in common with the general prosperity of the place, hat-making also
+flourished. In 1810 Maryland is found, from the United States census
+reports, to have taken the lead in the production of fur hats. Aside
+from the custom with some retailers of making and finishing the hats
+they sold, we find in the year 1818 several firms engaged in the
+_manufacture_ of hats. The products of these factories were
+distributed throughout the entire South, a section the natural
+resources of which enabled its people to easily recuperate from the
+war and quickly become large purchasers and consumers of goods which
+they did not themselves manufacture. In addition to this desirable
+field of business was the region of the "Far West," then comprising
+Ohio, Kentucky and Tennessee, the rapid increase of which in
+population by emigration greatly enlarged the demand for the products
+of Baltimore's hat industry. This being the most accessible seaport
+city, regular traffic by wagon trains was established, connecting
+Baltimore with the West, and giving to the former such superior
+advantages as to enable its enterprising merchants to secure a large
+trade, which they long and tenaciously held.
+
+The city directories of that period were not, as now-a-days, issued
+annually, but at intervals of three or four years, and while
+furnishing much valuable information, cannot be relied upon for
+complete correctness, the main object of the compiler being to get the
+names of house-holders and business men, while many who were
+temporarily employed, and all who were unmarried though permanently
+employed, were omitted from registration. Thus the Directory of 1818
+does not give a full list of hatters in this city at that time, for
+while it appears that there were in operation in Baltimore twenty-five
+hat establishments in the year 1818 (five or six of which were
+extensive manufactories), the Directory does not show any fair
+proportion of the number that then must have been engaged in the
+occupation of hat-making. It may be safely estimated from the extent
+and the activity of this branch of business at that time, that it gave
+employment to at least three hundred hands.
+
+Before the year 1810 the "taper crown" or "steeple top" had yielded to
+the uncompromising demands of fashion, and a style appeared quite
+different from that which existed at the opening of the century. It
+had so expanded its crown as to become "bell" in place of "taper," a
+change so manifestly popular that the "bell crown" since that time,
+though subject in a greater or less degree to occasional alterations
+in its proportions, has been for a dress hat the generally accepted
+style.
+
+[Illustration: 1810]
+
+In the style of 1810, Fashion, indulging as she not infrequently does,
+in a gymnastic summersault from one extreme to another, went in this
+instance quite as far as prudence would allow: the crown was about
+seven inches in height and about eight and one-quarter inches across
+the tip, with a brim about two-and-a-quarter inches wide, the hat
+being thickly napped with long beaver fur and trimmed with a wide band
+and buckle. Following the year 1810 there came a reduction in heights
+of crowns as well as in the proportions of "bell," and a modified
+style prevailed until the year 1835, when it again developed into an
+extreme "bell" shape with a very narrow brim, a style so utterly
+extravagant as to bring it into ridicule.
+
+
+
+
+SOME OLD FIRMS.
+
+No. 6.
+
+
+Of the hatters engaged in business in Baltimore during the early part
+of this century, many are worthy of more than passing notice as men of
+honest character, strict in their dealings and successful in their
+business undertakings, gaining the respect of their fellow-townsmen
+and becoming honored and trusted citizens of a growing community.
+
+When it is known what were the social surroundings of the "old time"
+hatter in his youth, it seems a matter of surprise that such good
+fruit should spring from so unpromising soil.
+
+No one was supposed to be capable of conducting the retail hat
+business unless he had served his term of apprenticeship to the trade,
+and apprenticeship in those days was no trivial matter. It meant the
+surrender at an early age of home, with its parental influences--a
+most dangerous experience for the untrained youth to encounter--and
+was entered into by contract for a term of years, binding master and
+hand to its faithful execution; not merely a verbal agreement between
+parties themselves, but one solemnly executed by parent and employer,
+ratified and signed before a magistrate and made binding after all
+this legal form by the attachment of the portentous seal of the
+Orphans' Court, before the boy could be considered bounden as "an
+apprentice to the trade." This was virtually a surrender of all
+domestic control, giving to one not of "kith or kin" absolute
+guardianship of the boy. The habits and morals of the "'prentice" were
+often a secondary consideration, if not wholly neglected.
+
+Thus, as a class, the journeyman hatters often developed into loose,
+shiftless, migratory characters, spending their liberal wages freely,
+with no ambition beyond that of daily support; and the surprise is
+that from such a source came notably honorable men, whose lives seemed
+to contradict the whole theory of the influence of early training. To
+these worthy pioneers belongs the credit of laying a secure
+foundation for a trade that from humble beginnings has developed into
+one of the most prominent industries of the country, requiring
+extensive capital, liberal business capacity, and one that gives
+employment to a large, intelligent and skillful class of people.
+
+Among those conducting the hatting business in Baltimore at the
+opening of the present century, Mr. Jacob Rogers, from his long and
+successful business career, as well as from being the only one through
+whom it has been possible to connect this special industry as it
+existed before the Revolution, with that of the present time, ranks
+most prominently.
+
+What year Mr. Rogers commenced business cannot be ascertained, but as
+early as 1796, being nearly 30 years of age, he is found established
+at the corner of South and Second streets, and in the year 1844
+(almost the middle of another century), after the lapse of nearly
+fifty years, and while actively engaged in business pursuits, his life
+was suddenly ended; his funeral taking place from his residence, at
+South and Second streets, his home for more than half a century.
+
+About the year 1805 Mr. Rogers erected a large factory on Second
+street near Tripolet's alley (now Post-Office avenue). This building
+was about one hundred and fifty feet long, forty wide, and four
+stories in height. Afterwards a wing extension of considerable
+proportions was added.
+
+[Illustration: Hat shop of Jacob Rogers, built about 1805.]
+
+This establishment was one of the "big" concerns of the day, and Mr.
+Rogers was credited with conducting, at this time, the most extensive
+and prosperous hat business in the United States.
+
+To-day not a vestige remains of Mr. Rogers' factory, and upon its site
+is the extensive structure of the Corn and Flour Exchange. His store,
+at the corner of South and Second streets, still remains, however,
+having been remodeled from that of Mr. Rogers' time, the ground-floor
+being now occupied by H. W. Totebush as a cigar store.
+
+In 1819 Mr. Rogers took as partner in business his eldest son, George,
+the firm becoming Jacob Rogers & Son. In 1823 Mr. Rogers leased from
+the Carroll family the property No. 129 West Baltimore street, at the
+corner of Public alley (now Grant street), where a branch
+establishment was opened, both establishments being continued up to
+the time of Mr. Rogers' death, in 1844, at which time the firm was
+"Jacob Rogers & Sons," William, another son, having been admitted
+about the year 1835.
+
+Upon the occasion of celebrating the laying of the cornerstone of the
+Baltimore and Ohio Railroad in Baltimore, July 4, 1828 (a great event
+in the annals of the city), the exhibition of trades was a most
+prominent feature of the immense procession, and none made a finer
+display than the hatters. George Rogers commanded that division, a
+description of which is thus given in the Baltimore _Gazette and Daily
+Advertiser_ of July 5, 1828: "The hatters' car was drawn by four
+horses, showing the men at work in the several stages of hat-making.
+The group attracted much attention; they carried a banner with a white
+ground, and on the shield was a beaver resting on a scroll bearing the
+motto: 'With the industry of the beaver we support our rights,'
+crossed with implements of the trade, the whole supported by the
+motto: 'We cover all.'"
+
+Bazil Sollers commenced business in 1799 at No. 68 Market street, a
+location on the north side of the street, four doors east of what is
+now Holliday street. In 1803 he removed to No. 22 Market street, also
+on the north side, four doors west of Harrison street; this latter
+place was previously occupied by Brant & Hobby as a hat store in 1801,
+and by Stansbury & Hobby in 1802. Mr. Sollers continued in business on
+Market street until the year 1831, when he removed to North Gay, No.
+15, on the northwest corner of Front street. His factory was on East,
+now Fayette street, three doors east of Lemon street. Mr. Sollers
+continued in the manufacturing business until about the year 1840.
+
+James Gould & Co. started hat-manufacturing at No. 3 Water street in
+the year 1802. Water street at that time was numbered from Calvert to
+South street, subsequently from South to Calvert, and lately
+renumbered as formerly. No. 3, the second building from Calvert, is
+now occupied by J. E. Warner & Co., commission merchants. In 1807
+Joseph Cox succeeded to the business of James Gould & Co., and kept a
+retail store on the corner of South and Water streets. Mr. Cox had the
+reputation of making a superior class of hats, excelled by no
+manufacturer in the country, selling at both wholesale and retail.
+Requiring more extensive accommodations, he located his factory on
+the corner of Little Water and Calvert streets, where now stands the
+large warehouse of Keen & Hagerty, tinware manufacturers. In 1829,
+disposing of his hat business to Boston & Elder, he associated with
+himself his son James, the firm becoming "James Cox & Son, dealers in
+hatters' furs and wools," at No. 1 South Liberty street. In latter
+years, the members of this firm having acquired a competency, retired
+from business.
+
+Joseph Pearson was established as a hat manufacturer in 1809, having
+his shop on Green, now Exeter street, Old Town. He changed his
+business in the year 1824 to that of dealer in furs, for which
+Baltimore in early days was a good market, the _catch_ of the trappers
+of the Alleghanies and of the pioneers of the new West finding their
+way to Baltimore, and the otter and muskrat of lower Maryland,
+Virginia and North Carolina also coming in large quantities to this
+market. The fur business of Baltimore was then of sufficient
+importance for Jacob Astor to make Mr. Pearson his representative
+agent. In latter years the firm became Joseph Pearson & Son, dealers
+in hatters' furs and trimmings, at 260 Baltimore street. All the
+members of this firm being dead, Edward Connolly, who was in their
+employ, succeeded to the business, afterwards changing it to a general
+hat-jobbing business, which is still conducted by Edward Connolly &
+Son at 207 W. Baltimore street.
+
+John Amos was a well known and respected hatter of Old Town, who
+commenced business as early as the year 1809 at No. 39 Bridge street,
+on the north side of the present North Gay street, between High and
+Exeter. His "back shop," or factory, was on Hillen street. He
+continued business during the period of thirty years at the same
+place, and died in 1847 at the age of 67.
+
+
+
+
+PATRIARCHS OF THE TRADE.
+
+No. 7.
+
+
+Gleaning more closely in the historic field of the early part of the
+century, others are found whose enterprise contributed largely to this
+important industry of Baltimore, and whose successful prosecution of
+the hat business maintained the credit and position won by their
+predecessors.
+
+In the year 1814 Runyon Harris erected a large hat factory on Fish,
+now Saratoga street. This building was about one hundred and
+twenty-five feet in length and two and a half stories high.
+
+The business of this establishment was carried on under the style of
+"The Baltimore Hat Manufacturing Co." While evidence cannot be given,
+it may be inferred that Mr. Harris must, before this date, have been
+engaged elsewhere in the city in the manufacture of hats, as others
+entering into business about this time are known to have been
+apprenticed to Mr. Harris.
+
+[Illustration: Ye old Hat Factory of Runyon Harris Balto. Erected in
+1814]
+
+In 1817 Aaron Clap & Co. commenced the retail hat business at 146
+Market street, on the north side, five doors east of St. Paul street,
+and probably identical with the present 104 East Baltimore street,
+recently occupied by John Murphy & Co., Publishers.
+
+Messrs. Clap & Co. having secured a good location by purchasing the
+factory of Runyon Harris, engaged extensively in the manufacturing
+business, which was continued by their several successors down to the
+year 1864, when results of the civil war (so disastrous to Maryland's
+manufacturing industries) caused its temporary abandonment, but the
+enterprise established by Messrs. Aaron Clap & Co. has, by an unbroken
+series of firms, continued to the present time, being now represented
+by Brigham, Hopkins & Co.
+
+In 1817 Henry Lamson kept a first-class retail hat store at No. 5
+South Calvert street, the locality now the southwest corner of Carroll
+Hall building. In 1822 the firm of Aaron Clap & Co. and Henry Lamson
+consolidated, making the firm Lamson & Clap, and continuing the retail
+business at No. 5 South Calvert street, in connection with
+manufactory. Mr. Lamson in 1827 went to the West Indies in search of
+health, and died on the island of St. Thomas. He was a gentleman of
+much social refinement, and was held in high esteem as a citizen.
+
+In the year 1827 the firm of Lamson & Clap was dissolved by the death
+of Mr. Lamson, and Mr. Wm. P. Cole was admitted, the firm becoming
+Clap, Cole & Co. After the death of Mr. Clap, which occurred in 1834,
+his widow's interest was retained and the firm was changed to Cole,
+Clap & Co.; following this, Mrs. Clap retired and Mr. Hugh J. Morrison
+became a member of the firm, which was made Cole & Morrison. In 1842
+Thaddeus and William G. Craft became interested, the firm becoming
+Cole, Craft & Co., still continuing business at No. 5 South Calvert
+street (the same place established by Lamson & Clap). About the year
+1850 the firm removed to No. 218 West Baltimore street, now 10 East
+Baltimore street and occupied by Likes, Berwanger & Co., clothiers. In
+1853 Mr. Cole associated with him his son, William R., the firm being
+Wm. P. Cole & Son. In 1857 the firm moved to No. 274 West Baltimore
+street, present number 46, where they remained until the year 1867,
+removing then to occupy the building which they had erected at No. 30
+Sharp street, now 24 Hopkins Place.
+
+In 1861 Mr. Wm. T. Brigham was admitted to the firm, it then becoming
+Wm. R. Cole & Co. In 1870 the firm name was again changed to Cole,
+Brigham & Co., which was dissolved in 1877 by the withdrawal of Mr.
+Brigham, in which year Mr. Brigham associated with Robert D. Hopkins
+as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, locating at No. 128 West Fayette
+street (present number 211), which firm of Brigham & Hopkins continued
+until 1887, when it was changed to Brigham, Hopkins & Co. by the
+admission of Isaac H. Francis.
+
+In 1884 Brigham & Hopkins erected the large and handsome building at
+the corner of German and Paca streets, which the present firm
+continue to occupy as a factory and salesroom.
+
+In 1810 Andrew Ruff is found at No. 72 Camden street, likely to have
+been his place of residence. Whether he was then engaged in business
+is not known, but in 1817 he had a factory on Davis street between
+Lexington and Saratoga streets, the site now occupied by the stables
+of the Adams Express Company. About the year 1822 he established a
+retail store at 158 Baltimore street. In 1842 the firm was Andrew Ruff
+& Co., at 194 Baltimore street. At one time Mr. Ruff was foreman in
+the manufacturing establishment of Clap & Cole.
+
+Henry Jenkins, in 1822, was a hat manufacturer at 28 Green street, Old
+Town, and from 1824 to 1830 Messrs. H. & W. S. Jenkins kept a hat store
+on the northeast corner of Baltimore and Calvert streets, where
+afterwards was erected the banking-house of Josiah Lee & Co., now
+occupied by the Pennsylvania Railroad Company as a ticket office.
+
+Joseph Branson was a hatter in the year 1827 at 182 Market street. He
+was a son of William Branson, who was engaged in the same business
+from 1796 to 1817. Joseph Branson ranked as the fashionable hatter of
+that time. He was a man of considerable military distinction in the
+State. He raised and commanded the famous Marion Rifles, a superb
+military organization of the city, to which was accorded the honor of
+receiving General Lafayette upon his visit to Baltimore in 1824.
+
+Mr. Branson is said to have been the first to introduce a thorough
+system of military tactics in Baltimore. He served several terms in
+the City Council, and was an active, enterprising citizen. In the year
+1831 he went out of business and took the position of inspector in the
+custom house.
+
+Mr. Charles Grimes was a well-known hatter who commenced business at
+42 Baltimore street about 1823. In 1831 he removed to No. 29 North
+Gay, near High street. He evidently had a love for his first choice,
+as in 1833 he is found again at 42 Baltimore street. Mr. Grimes
+retired from business as early as the year 1839. He was extremely fond
+of the Maryland sport of duck shooting, in which he was associated
+with many of Baltimore's sporting gentlemen. In 1853 he removed to
+Philadelphia, enjoying a life of comfort and ease. He was an exemplary
+man in all the relations of life, and died in the year 1868 at the
+advanced age of 73.
+
+In 1810 John Petticord was learning his trade with Jacob Rogers, being
+then fourteen years of age. His honesty and faithfulness were
+appreciated by his employer, and in 1814 he occupied the position of
+foreman in Mr. Rogers' factory. After continuing in that capacity for
+some time he commenced the manufacture of hats on his own account,
+continuing it until the feebleness of age compelled him to abandon it.
+
+Thomas Sappington was a hat manufacturer who, in the year 1831, was
+located at No. 120 Baltimore street, which at that time was at or near
+the present number, 116 East Baltimore street. He had his factory on
+North street near Saratoga. It is known that he was in business for a
+number of years, but what year he commenced and when he abandoned
+business cannot be ascertained.
+
+Victor Sarata was a Frenchman who located in Baltimore as early as
+1838. He opened a retail store at 259 Baltimore street, and was the
+first one to introduce the silk hat in this city.
+
+Wm. H. Keevil was a hatter doing a retail business in 1842 at 66-1/2
+Baltimore street. He was evidently of the "buncombe" style, and
+conducted his business in a sensational manner, advertising
+extensively and brazenly, as will be seen from the following quotation
+from an advertisement of his printed in 1842:
+
+"Who talks of importing hats from England while _Keevil_ is in the
+field? Pshaw! 'Tis sheer folly. For while he continues to sell his
+beautiful hats at his present reduced prices, any such speculation as
+importing hats from Europe will be 'no go' or 'non-effect.' The
+hatters, therefore, on the other side of the Atlantic had better keep
+their hats at home, as it would be quite as profitable for them to
+send 'wooden nutmegs' and 'sawdust hams' to New England, or coals to
+Newcastle, as hats to Baltimore to compete with the well-known
+_Keevil_."
+
+His business existence could not have been of long continuance, as in
+1850 his name is not found in the City Directory.
+
+At the close of the first half of this century there were several who
+afterwards attained prominence both in business and a public capacity,
+among whom were Joshua Vansant, Samuel Hindes, Charles Towson, George
+K. Quail, James L. McPhail, P. E. Riley, John Boston, Ephraim Price,
+Robert Q. Taylor, Lewis Raymo and others, the last two mentioned being
+the only ones now living.
+
+
+
+
+JACOB ROGERS.
+
+No. 8.
+
+
+To one man more than any other belongs the credit of establishing upon
+an extensive scale the hat business, which in the early part of the
+present century was so prominently identified with the growth and
+prosperity of Baltimore; that person was Jacob Rogers, whose business
+career in his native city extended over a period of more than fifty
+years, fortified by a reputation that brought the universal respect of
+his fellow-citizens, and leaving a worthy example for those succeeding
+him.
+
+Jacob Rogers was born in the year 1766. As in those days boys were
+apprenticed at an early age, it may be supposed that when he was
+fifteen years old he was in the employ of David Shields, with whom it
+is known he served his term of apprenticeship at hat-making. In 1796
+Mr. Rogers is found the proprietor of a retail hat store at the corner
+of South and Second streets. He was an enterprising man, and succeeded
+in building up a business of large proportions. He died in 1842,
+possessed of a fortune amounting to three hundred thousand dollars, a
+large accumulation for those days. In 1805 he built an extensive
+factory on Second street, near Tripolet's alley--now Post-Office
+avenue--and adjoining the old Lutheran Church, the spire of which then
+contained the Town Clock; these old landmarks are now all removed and
+the location occupied by the stately edifice of the Corn and Flour
+Exchange. The number of hands employed by Mr. Rogers at his factory
+and "front shop" was about one hundred, including apprentices. His
+"plank" shop comprised five batteries, aggregating thirty men; in the
+finishing shop he employed about twenty-five, and he had usually bound
+to him as many as fifteen apprentices. This would appear to be a large
+force for a hat-manufacturing concern of that early period, but it
+must be remembered that the manual labor bestowed upon one hat then
+was more than that on some thousands in the present day of
+labor-saving machinery.
+
+That Mr. Rogers was a strict disciplinarian and an excellent business
+man is proven by the perfect control he exercised over the large
+number in his employ, whom he ruled with a firm hand yet with a wise
+judgment, and while rebuking any disobedience of orders, was feared,
+respected and loved for his strict sense of honor, justice and
+propriety.
+
+He boarded under his own roof nearly all his apprentices to the trade;
+a few were privileged to lodge at home, while their board was
+supplied by their master, as one of the stipulations of their
+indenture; so Jacob Rogers' immediate family, which was not a small
+one, was greatly enlarged by the addition of fifteen to twenty wild,
+untamed "prentice" boys. What would have been the domestic condition
+of such a family without the ruling influence of a stern master only
+those can imagine who know the kind of material of which the
+journeyman hatter of those days was composed. He was a veritable
+tramp.
+
+As a rule with Mr. Rogers, chastisement immediately followed
+misconduct; with him the present was the opportune time for
+punishment, and whether in the home, the shop, or on the street, any
+of the shop-boys were found doing wrong, correction was given in the
+then customary way--by flogging.
+
+Mr. Rogers was a conscientious member of the Methodist Church, and
+maintained a high character for honesty and probity, and recognized as
+a fair man in all his dealings.
+
+A good story is told to show how, though driving a keen bargain, he
+was careful not to misrepresent. In his store one day he was divulging
+to a friend some of the secrets of his business, showing how
+successfully a _prime_ beaver-napped hat could be made with the
+slightest sprinkling of the valuable beaver fur, a trick just then
+discovered. Soon after a purchaser appeared inquiring for a
+beaver-napped hat. Mr. Rogers expatiated upon the marvelous beauty of
+the "tile," and his customer put the question: "Mr. Rogers, is this a
+genuine beaver hat?" "My dear sir," said Mr. Rogers, "I pledge my word
+that the best part of the material in that hat is pure beaver." The
+hat was bought and paid for and the customer departed, well satisfied
+with his purchase. At once Mr. Rogers was catechised by his friend,
+who had earnestly watched the trade, remarking: "Why, Mr. Rogers, did
+you not tell me that there was but a trifling amount of beaver in that
+hat you just sold, and you, a church member, so misrepresent
+to a customer?" "My friend," replied Mr. Rogers, "I made no
+misrepresentation, I told my customer the honest fact, that the _best_
+part of the material of which the hat was made was pure beaver, and so
+it was."
+
+The journeyman hatter of Mr. Rogers' time was a character, migratory
+in his ways, his general habit being to work for a short time--a
+season or less in one place--then, from desire of change or lack of
+employment, to seek for pastures new. As railroad travel was not then
+thought of, and stage-coach conveyance a luxury at most times beyond
+the pecuniary means of the itinerant hatter, the journey was usually
+made on foot.
+
+Application for work could not be made to the proprietor, but must
+necessarily go through the medium of an employee. Frequently an
+applicant in straitened circumstances who failed to be "shopped,"
+appealed to his more fortunate fellow-workmen to relieve his destitute
+condition, who always made a ready and hearty response by providing
+for his immediate wants and starting him again on his pilgrimage with
+a light heart and a wish for good luck. This constant wandering habit
+frequently brought the hatter of those days to a condition of abject
+dependence, and supplied a large proportion of that vagrant class now
+denominated "tramps." It was often the boast of these hatter "tramps"
+that in the period of a year or two they would make the tour of the
+entire country from Portland, Maine, to Baltimore in the South, and
+Pittsburg, then "far west," "shopping" awhile in some town or village
+and then marching on in search of another chance.
+
+[Illustration: Hat Store of Jacob Rogers.]
+
+In the "season" when labor was in demand good workmen did not apply in
+vain, but most hat factories were subject to dull times between
+seasons, necessitating a reduction in the number of hands. This
+general plan was productive of irregularity in the habits of the
+workman, allowing him to have no settled place of habitation.
+Baltimore, however, was an exception to the general rule, her
+factories providing constant employment for her workmen, thus
+encouraging a deeper interest in their vocation.
+
+It is said that in business Mr. Rogers never knew what dull times
+were; he kept his hat factory in active operation all the year round.
+This prosperous condition of things had the tendency to make the
+Baltimore hatter somewhat of a permanent settler, thereby identifying
+him more closely with the interests and the growth of his own city,
+and causing him to become personally concerned in its success and
+prosperity; an experience quite different from that of his
+fellow-workmen elsewhere, who were constantly changing their
+habitation. Thus the Baltimore hatter was reared under conditions
+favorable to his improvement by serving his apprentice days under the
+influence of a conscientious master. The effect of this early training
+was manifest in his character as a good citizen ever after, often
+securing for him in the place of his birth positions of trust, and
+many of Baltimore's best citizens, and some of her noblest men,
+received their early training in the model hat-shops of their own
+city.
+
+With the growing trade of the city, the business of hat-making kept
+steady pace. The prosperity of the South, and the constant development
+of the West, provided Baltimore with a wide outlet for her products.
+Through the business channels of this young and enterprising city
+flowed a large proportion of the products of the mills and factories
+of New England, assisting materially the business activity of the
+place, and it is quite likely that the interests of Baltimore and New
+England at that time being so connected is an explanation why so many
+New England people migrated to Baltimore in those days of her
+prosperity.
+
+With characteristic energy and enterprise, Mr. Rogers extended his
+business, pushing forward into new fields as the settlement of the
+country advanced. Besides a large trade with the entire South, the
+wagon-trains, which were the expresses of those days, distributed his
+goods throughout the States of Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky and Tennessee,
+thus securing to him at that time the most extensive business in hat
+manufacture conducted by any one firm in the United States.
+
+Fortune favored Mr. Rogers, and during his whole business career there
+was no interruption in the progress of this industry in Baltimore. Not
+until his death, or after the middle of the century, was there any
+noticeable decline.
+
+The eventful business career and commendable private life of Mr.
+Rogers ended on the 10th of April, 1842, he falling suddenly in the
+old Light-street Methodist Church while attending divine service. The
+Baltimore _Sun_ of April 11, 1842, mentioned his death as follows:
+
+"The illness of Jacob Rogers, Esq., occurred in Light-street Church;
+he fell in a faint from which he died an hour after at his residence,
+No. 9 South street. He was well known and respected as one of the most
+worthy, industrious, and valuable of our citizens of Baltimore."
+
+[Illustration: WESTERN EXPRESS, 1825.]
+
+
+
+
+OLD METHODS.
+
+No. 9.
+
+
+Just as the first half of the present century was expiring, an
+invention was made that at once revolutionized the whole system of
+hat-making. A machine was patented in the United States by H. A. Wells,
+in the year 1846, which successfully accomplished the work of making
+or forming a hat in a very short space of time, which heretofore had
+required the slow, tedious and skillful labor of the hands, thus so
+equally dividing the century that the first half may be practically
+considered as following the _old_ method, and the latter half as using
+the _new_ method.
+
+So remarkable was this invention that its introduction quickly
+produced a change in the character of hats by greatly reducing their
+cost of manufacture, together with a change in the manner of
+conducting the hat business. To show up the _old_ method of
+hat-making that existed prior to the use of the Wells machine is the
+purpose of this chapter, the greater part of the information here
+given having been gained from an article in "Sears' Guide to
+Knowledge," published in 1844.
+
+Let us enter a Baltimore hat "shop" of fifty years ago and watch the
+making of a single hat. Fur and wool constitute the main ingredients
+of which hats have always been made, because possessing those
+qualities necessary for the process of "felting," the finer and better
+class of hats being made of the furs of such animals as the beaver,
+bear, marten, minx, hare and rabbit. The skins of these animals after
+being stripped from the body are called "pelts"; when the inner side
+has undergone a process of tanning the skins obtain the name of "furs"
+in a restricted sense, and the term is still more restricted when
+applied to the hairy coating cut from the skin.
+
+The furs to which the old-time hatter gave preference were the beaver,
+the muskrat, the nutria, the hare and the rabbit, of which the first
+was by far the most valuable. These animals all have two kinds of hair
+on their skins, the innermost of which is short and fine as down, the
+outermost, thick, long and more sparing, the former being of much use,
+the latter of no value to the hatter. After receiving the "skins" or
+"pelts," which are greasy and dirty, they are first cleaned with soap
+and water, then carried to the "pulling-room," where women are
+employed in pulling out the coarse outer hairs from the skins, which
+is done by means of a knife acting against the thumb, the fingers and
+thumb being guarded by a short leather shield. The skins are then
+taken and the fur cut or "cropped" from them, which is done by men
+dexterously using a sharp knife, formed with a round blade, such as is
+used now-a-days in the kitchen as a "chopping knife." By keeping this
+knife constantly moving across the skin the fur is taken off or
+separated without injury to the skin, which is to be tanned for
+leather or consigned to the glue factory. The cutting of furs,
+however, had become before 1844 a business in some measure conducted
+by itself, and a machine had been invented to separate the fur from
+the skin, which, though it might be considered now a simple affair,
+was at that time looked upon as a wonder.
+
+[Illustration: FUR-CUTTING MACHINE.]
+
+We have said the women in the "pulling-room" cut, tear, or pull out
+the long, coarse hairs from the pelts, and that these hairs are
+useless to the hatter. But it is impossible completely to separate the
+coarse from the fine fur by these means, and therefore the fur, when
+cropped from the pelt, is conveyed to the "blowing-room," finally to
+effect the separation. The action of the blowing machine is
+exceedingly beautiful, and may perhaps be understood without a minute
+detail of its mechanism. A quantity of beaver or any other fur is
+introduced at one end near a compartment in which a vane or fly is
+revolving with a velocity of nearly two thousand rotations in a
+minute. We all know, even from a simple example of a lady's fan, that
+a body in motion gives rise to a wind or draught, and when the motion
+is so rapid as is here indicated, the current becomes very powerful.
+This current of air propels the fur along a hollow trunk to the other
+end of the machine, and in so doing produces an effect which is as
+remarkable as valuable. All the coarse and comparatively valueless fur
+is deposited on a cloth stretched along the trunk, while the more
+delicate filaments are blown into a receptacle at the other end.
+Nothing but a very ingenious arrangement of mechanism could produce a
+separation so complete as is here effected; but the principle of
+action is not hard to understand. If there were no atmosphere, or if
+an inclosed place were exhausted of air, a guinea and a feather,
+however unequal in weight, would fall to the ground with equal
+velocity, but in ordinary circumstances the guinea would obviously
+fall more quickly than the feather, because the resistance of the air
+bears a much larger ratio to the weight of the feather than that of
+the guinea. As the resistance of air to a moving body acts more
+forcibly on a light than a heavy substance, so likewise does air when
+in motion and acting as a moving force. When particles of sand or
+gravel are driven by the wind, the lightest particles go the greatest
+distance. So it is with the two kinds of fur in the "blowing machine,"
+those fibers which are finest and lightest are driven to the remote
+end of the machine.
+
+[Illustration: BLOWING ENGINE.]
+
+The "body," or "foundation," of a good beaver hat is generally made of
+eight parts rabbit's fur, three parts Saxony wool, and one part of
+llama, vicunia, or "red" wool. A sufficient quantity of these for one
+hat (about two and a half ounces) is weighed out and placed in the
+hands of the "bower." On entering the "bowing-room" a peculiar
+twanging noise indicates to the visitor that a stretched cord is in
+rapid vibration, and the management of this cord by the workman is
+seen to be one of the many operations in hatting wherein success
+depends exclusively on skillful manipulation. A bench extends along
+the front of the room beneath a range of windows, and each "bower" has
+a little compartment appropriated to himself. The bow is an ashen
+staff from five to seven feet in length, having a strong cord of
+catgut stretched over bridges at the two ends. The bow is suspended in
+the middle by a string from the ceiling, whereby it hangs nearly on a
+level with the work-bench, and the workman thus proceeds: The wool and
+coarse fur, first separately and afterwards together, are laid on the
+bench, and the bower, grasping the staff of the bow with his left hand
+and plucking the cord with his right hand by means of a small piece of
+wood, causes the cord to vibrate rapidly against the fur and wool. By
+repeating this process for a certain time, all the original clots or
+assemblages of filaments are perfectly opened and dilated, and the
+fibers, flying upwards when struck, are, by the dexterity of the
+workman, made to fall in nearly equal thickness on the bench,
+presenting a very light and soft layer of material. Simple as this
+operation appears to a stranger, years of practice are required for
+the attainment of proficiency in it.
+
+[Illustration: BOWING]
+
+The bowed materials for one hat are divided into two portions, each of
+which is separately pressed with a light wicker frame; the light mass
+of fluffy fur, after being pressed with the frame, is covered with a
+wet cloth, over which is placed a piece of oil-cloth or leather called
+a "hardening skin," until, by the pressure of the hands backwards and
+forwards all over the skin, the fibers are brought closer together,
+the points of contact multiplied, the serrations made to link
+together, and a slightly coherent fabric formed. These two halves, or
+"batts," are then formed into a hollow cap by a singular contrivance.
+One of the "batts," nearly triangular in shape, and measuring about
+half a yard in each direction, being laid flat, a triangular piece of
+paper, smaller in size than the batt, is laid upon it, and the edges
+of the batt, being folded over the paper, meet at the upper surface,
+and thus form a complete envelope to the paper. The two meeting edges
+are soon made to combine by gentle pressure and friction, and another
+"batt" is laid on the other in a similar way, but having the meeting
+edges on the opposite side of the paper. The double layer, with the
+enclosed paper, are then folded up in a damp cloth and worked by hand;
+the workman pressing and bending, rolling and unrolling, until the
+fibers of the inner layer are incorporated with those of the outer. It
+is evident that were there not a piece of paper interposed, the whole
+of the fibers would be worked together into a mass by the opposite
+sides felting together, but the paper maintains a vacancy within, and
+when withdrawn at the edge which is to form the opening of the cap, it
+leaves the felted material in such a form as to constitute, when
+stretched open, a hollow cone.
+
+The "battery" is a large kettle or boiler open at the top, having a
+fire beneath it, and eight planks ascending obliquely from the margin,
+so as to form a sort of octagonal work-bench, five or six feet in
+diameter, at which eight men may work; the planks are made of lead
+near the kettle, and of mahogany at the outer part, and at each plank
+a workman operates on a conical cap until the process of felting or
+"planking" is completed. The "battery" contains hot water slightly
+acidulated with sulphuric acid. The cap is dipped into the hot liquor,
+laid on one of the planks, and subjected to a long felting process; it
+is rolled and unrolled, twisted, pressed, and rubbed with a piece of
+leather or wood tied to the workman's hand, and rolled with a
+rolling-pin. From time to time the cap is examined, to ascertain
+whether the thickness is sufficient in every part, and if any
+defective places appear, they are wet with a brush dipped in the hot
+liquor, and a few additional fibers are worked in. Considerable skill
+is required in order to preserve such an additional thickness of
+material at one part as shall suffice for the brim of the hat. When
+this felting process has been continued about two hours, it is found
+that the heat, moisture, pressure and friction have reduced the cap to
+one-half its former dimensions, the thickness being increased in a
+proportionate degree, assuming a conical shape.
+
+The "cap" is then taken to the "water-proofing" or "stiffening" room,
+where the odor of gum, resins and spirits gives some intimation of the
+materials employed. Gum-lac, gum-sandrach, gum-mastic, resin,
+frankincense, copal, caoutchouc, spirits of wine and spirits of
+turpentine, are the ingredients (all of a very inflammable nature) of
+which the water-proofing is made. This is laid on the cap by means of
+a brush, and the workman exercises his skill in regulating the
+quantity at different parts, since the strength of the future brim and
+crown depends much on this process.
+
+After another heating in a hot room, called "stoving," by which the
+spirit is evaporated, the exterior of the cap is scoured with a weak
+alkali, to remove a portion of the gummy coating, and thereby enable
+the beaver fur with which it is to be "napped" or "coated," to adhere.
+
+A layer of beaver fur is spread, and, by means of the "hardening
+stick," is pressed and worked into a very delicate and light felt,
+just coherent enough to hold together. This layer, which is called a
+"ruffing" or "roughing," is a little larger than the cap-body, and to
+unite the two, another visit to the "battery" is necessary. The cap
+being softened by immersion in the hot liquor, the "ruffing" is laid
+on it, and patted down with a wet brush, a narrow strip of beaver
+being laid round the inside of the cap to form the underside of the
+future brim. The beavered cap is then wrapped in a woolen cloth,
+immersed frequently in the hot liquor, and rolled on the plank for the
+space of two hours. The effect of this rubbing and rolling is very
+curious, and may be illustrated in a simple manner: if a few fibers of
+beaver fur be laid on a piece of broadcloth, covered with tissue
+paper, and rubbed gently with the finger, they will penetrate through
+the cloth and appear on the opposite side. So, likewise, in the
+process of "ruffing," each fiber is set in motion from root to point,
+and enters the substance of the felt cap. The hairs proceed in a
+pretty straight course, and just enter the felt, with the substance of
+which they form an intimate union. But if the rolling and pressing
+were continued too long, the hairs would actually pass through the
+felt, and be seen on the inside instead of the outside of the cap; the
+workman therefore exercises his judgment in continuing the process
+only so long as is sufficient to secure the hairs in the felt firm
+enough to bear the action of the hat-brush in after-days.
+
+At length the cap is to assume somewhat the shape of a hat, before it
+finally leaves the "battery." The workman first turns up the edge of
+the cap to the depth of about an inch and a half; and then draws the
+peak of the cap back through the centre or axis so far as not to take
+out the first fold, but to produce an inner fold of the same depth.
+The point being turned back again, produces a third fold, and thus the
+workman proceeds, till the whole hat has acquired the appearance of a
+flattish circular piece, consisting of a number of concentric folds or
+rings, with the peak in the centre. This is laid on the "plank," where
+the workman, keeping the substance hot and wet, pulls, presses and
+rubs the centre until he has formed a smooth flat portion equal to the
+intended crown of the hat. He then takes a cylindrical block, on the
+flat end of which he applies the flattened central portion of the
+felt, and by holding a string down the curved sides of the block, he
+causes the surrounding portion of the felt to assume the figure of the
+block. The part which is to form the brim now appears a puckered
+appendage round the edge of the hat; but this puckered edge is soon
+brought to a tolerably flat shape by pulling and pressing.
+
+The workman then raises and opens the nap of the hat by means of a
+peculiar sort of comb, and then shears the hairs to a regular length.
+Connoisseurs in these matters are learned as to the respective merits
+of "short naps" and "long naps," and by the shearer's dexterity these
+are regulated. The visitor recognizes nothing difficult in this
+operation, yet years of practice are necessary for the attainment of
+skill therein, since the workman determines the length of the nap by
+the peculiar position in which the long, light shears are held. A nap
+or pile as fine as that of velvet can be produced by this operation.
+
+However carefully the process of "blowing" may be performed in order
+to separate the coarse fibers of the fur from the more delicate, there
+are always a few of the former left mingled with the latter, and these
+are worked up during the subsequent processes. Women are employed,
+therefore, after the hats have left the "finishers," in picking out
+with small tweezers such defective fibers as may present themselves on
+the surface of the hats.
+
+Lastly, the hat is placed in the hands of a workman whose employment
+requires an accurate eye and a fertile taste in matters of shape and
+form: this is the "shaper." He has to study the style and fashion of
+the day, as well as the wishes of individual purchasers, by giving to
+the brim of the hat such curvatures in various directions as may be
+needed. Simple as this may appear, the workman who possesses the
+requisite skill to give the acceptable curl to the brim which is to
+create the finishing touch for the hat is a desirable hand, and can
+command a high rate of wages.
+
+Thus, in our imaginary tour through an old-fashioned hat factory, we
+have seen the many skillful manipulations then required to make a hat,
+which, when compared with modern processes, awaken in our minds a
+sense of wonder at the change.
+
+
+
+
+JOHN PETTICORD.
+
+No. 10.
+
+
+The subject of this article, who died in Baltimore, October 11th,
+1887, in the 92d year of his age, was probably the oldest hatter in
+the United States. His identity with Baltimore hatting all the days of
+his life made him prominent in connection with that industry. Born but
+a few years after the thirteen states had by compact formed a
+republic, Washington being President of the United States, Mr.
+Petticord lived to see in office every President down to that of
+President Cleveland.
+
+When he was a young man of business, savages roamed and tented where
+beautiful and populous cities with all the advantages of refinement
+and art now exist.
+
+During his lifetime the population of his own city changed from 25,000
+to 400,000, and the United States extended its area of territory from
+the limits of the thirteen original states, which was 367,000 square
+miles, to upwards of 3,000,000, increasing its population from
+5,000,000 to 60,000,000.
+
+When John Petticord first made hats, the "Cocked" or "Continental"
+style was in vogue. No more curious museum could be collected than
+specimens of the various freaks of fashion in hats that appeared
+during the lifetime of this old hatter.
+
+John Petticord was born in Baltimore in 1796. At an early age he was
+apprenticed to John Amos to learn the trade of hatting; soon after
+finishing his service of apprenticeship, he secured work in the
+establishment of Jacob Rogers. He was faithful to his duties, serving
+his master with that same conscientiousness that he would have done
+for himself, soon becoming foreman of Mr. Rogers' extensive factory.
+After serving with Mr. Rogers for some years, he entered into business
+as a manufacturer on his own account, and continued until feebleness
+of age compelled him to abandon it. He was a man of quiet, simple
+habits, his chief ambition being to lead an upright life, and appear
+before God and his fellow-creatures an honest man.
+
+John Petticord was exemplary in character and habits, modest and
+gentle in his disposition, pure in his faith and in his living; he had
+no enemies, and was always known as a reliable man. During his long
+career as foreman or master of the shop, he never had a quarrel or a
+serious difficulty with the many who came under his control. He never
+drank intoxicating beverages, although in his early days that was the
+general custom, which, with hatters, was unfortunately the universal
+habit. His manliness and strength of character were also well
+displayed by his never chewing or smoking tobacco. He was patient and
+methodical, an indefatigable worker at his trade, believing that
+undivided attention to his work was a duty he owed to others.
+
+John Petticord was a patriot, being one of that noble band who
+fearlessly stood and successfully resisted the British attack upon
+Baltimore in 1814. At that time he was a youth of nineteen working at
+his trade. At noon-time on the eventful September 12th, 1814, the
+"tocsin" was sounded to call to arms every able-bodied citizen to
+defend his home and fireside, and, if possible, prevent the
+destruction of their beautiful city. At the first sound of the cannon,
+which was the signal agreed upon, John Petticord left his unfinished
+noonday meal, seized his musket, and was one of the first to join the
+ranks of his company. The day was desperately hot, and a forced march
+of two miles to the battlefield brought them, dusty, tired and
+thirsty, face to face with the enemy, who was in a fresh condition and
+eager for fight. Petticord's canteen, as all others, by regulation
+orders, was filled with whiskey, but he, being a temperance man, would
+not assuage his thirst with grog. Famishing for water, he obtained
+permission from his superior officer to go a short distance away,
+where a "squatter" was dispensing cider for the comfort of the
+soldiers and profit to himself. Petticord, emptying his canteen of
+whiskey on the ground, had it filled with hard cider, and quenched his
+thirst with a good round drink. That hard cider, together with heat
+and exhaustion, came about as near ending the earthly career of John
+Petticord as did the storm of enemy's bullets which whizzed about his
+head. On that trying day the bravery of this man was well tested. He
+stood manfully in position while his comrade on the right fell dead at
+his feet, and the one on his left was removed wounded from the
+battlefield, he himself receiving a slight wound on the finger. The
+riderless white horse of the British General Ross, who had just been
+killed, pranced by in front of the rank in which Mr. Petticord was
+stationed, and the hearts of himself and comrades beat lightly with
+hope of success, as the shouts of the Americans echoed along the line,
+announced the death of the invaders' great leader, encouraging a grand
+rally that gave them the victory of the day. Mr. Petticord, though a
+brave soldier in the time of his country's need, was a man of peace,
+and, upon the ending of hostilities with Great Britain, resigned his
+position in the eighth company of the 27th Regiment of Maryland
+militia.
+
+Baltimore always honors her noble band of brave defenders, and upon
+each anniversary of the 12th of September a public celebration is
+given, and the Old Defenders occupy the post of honor. It is but a few
+years since they marched with lively and steady step to martial music;
+later on, age required their appearing in carriages in the procession,
+and each year, at the annual dinner given by the city, their number
+has grown less and less.
+
+The present year but three were on earth to answer to the "roll call,"
+and but one able to appear at the banquet. Who can realize the sad
+feelings of the _last_ of such a noble band? Feeble Old Age, with its
+infirmities, mindful of its duty, sat perhaps for the last time around
+the banquet board, where, with friends and comrades, he before had
+enjoyed happy and jovial times, his spirits were cheered and the
+occasion made as pleasant as possible, by the presence of many of
+Baltimore's honored citizens; but not to see a single face of the many
+with whom during the seventy-five long years he had kept up a pleasant
+association, is an experience others cannot imagine.
+
+With Mr. Petticord's death, but two[1] are left of that noble band who
+so bravely protected our rights and fought for and firmly secured that
+liberty and freedom we of the present day are enjoying.
+
+[1] This article was written in 1887, since when these two have passed
+on.
+
+
+
+
+MIDDLE OF THE CENTURY.
+
+No. 11.
+
+
+Baltimore hat-manufacturing interests at the middle of the century
+suffered greatly by comparison with those of an earlier period. That
+which had been a prominent industry, engaged in by active,
+enterprising men, and extending steadily and widely, keeping pace with
+the growth of the country, and giving encouragement to the continued
+employment of skilled labor, was at the middle of this century
+gradually falling off in volume and importance, and continued to
+decline until what was once a thriving and prosperous industry of the
+city, became one almost of insignificance.
+
+In the government census of 1810, the statistics regarding hat
+manufacturing place Maryland as leading in the manufacture of fur
+hats. While Connecticut, New York, New Jersey and Pennsylvania gained
+rapidly, still this business in Baltimore continued to increase and
+grow, until during the period from 1825 to 1850 it reached the height
+of its prosperity.
+
+Before the year 1850 the once prominent concern of James Cox & Sons
+had retired from the hat-manufacturing business, and the oldest and
+wealthiest firm was contemplating liquidation, as Messrs. George and
+William Rogers, of the firm of Jacob Rogers & Sons, had decided to
+discontinue the business left by their father, choosing to follow
+other occupations. The retirement of these two firms, so long and
+closely identified with the mercantile and manufacturing industries of
+Baltimore, which had successfully contributed by their faithful
+business labors to its growth and prosperity, was a serious blow to
+the interests of the city. This change left in the field but one
+important firm who had been their contemporary--Cole, Craft & Co.--of
+which the late Wm. P. Cole was the active business partner. This firm
+followed in succession the business established in 1814 by Runyon
+Harris, and was the predecessor of the present firm of Brigham,
+Hopkins & Co.
+
+Much speculation might be indulged in as to the real cause of the
+decline and loss to Baltimore of so important an industry, but the
+plain facts force but one conviction; namely, the unwillingness of
+these successful old manufacturers to adopt newer methods of hat
+making, leading to such reduction in cost, through improvements, as to
+preclude the chance of their successful competition with those of more
+progressive ideas.
+
+While Baltimore hat makers clung tenaciously to the old ways, whereby
+labor and expense were incurred unnecessarily, those at the North were
+readily adopting the various new methods by which improvements in the
+art of hat making were constantly being made; thus, with the use of
+newly invented machinery, the cost of making hats was greatly
+lessened, and the Northern manufacturer constantly gained in
+competition with those of Baltimore.
+
+The invention of the Wells _Forming Machine_ added largely to the
+misfortune of this business. An expensive machine, with a
+comparatively tremendous production, required a large market as an
+output; a heavy royalty also was attached to it, and the business of
+Baltimore at that time appeared not to be in condition to justify its
+introduction. Though the machine was invented in 1841, it was not
+until the year 1852 that the venture was made to introduce into
+Baltimore the Wells _Hat-body Forming Machine_. With the pecuniary
+assistance of Wm. P. Cole, Messrs. Bailey & Mead, in 1852, commenced
+hat forming by machinery, the "mill" being located on Holliday
+street, and afterwards removed to Front street (present number 320).
+
+From failure of support, caused by inability to revive the depressed
+condition of the hat business, the venture of Messrs. Bailey & Mead
+was not successful, and Mr. Mead retiring from the firm, the business
+was continued by Messrs. Bailey, Craft & Co., mainly in the interest
+of Mr. Cole's factory, until about 1869, when hat forming by machinery
+in Baltimore was entirely abandoned, followed with the retirement of
+Mr. Cole from the manufacturing business.
+
+Charles Towson, who established himself in the retail hat business in
+1836, on Eutaw street, near Lexington, entered into partnership in
+1853 with Mr. Mead, the firm being Towson & Mead; they commenced hat
+manufacturing at No. 10 Water street, in the factory formerly occupied
+by Jas. Cox & Sons. The business was carried on for about one year,
+when it was abandoned and the firm was dissolved. Other parties made
+fruitless attempts to restore to Baltimore the prestige it once held
+in this business. To one person, however, is due the credit of
+maintaining a long, persistent and noble fight against odds and
+difficulties, and who, after all chances to restore vitality to an
+apparently pulseless enterprise seemed lost, retired from the contest,
+unscarred and full of honors, after a creditable business career of
+forty-six years, carried on in the same factory where fifty-two years
+before he entered service as a boy. This person was Mr. Wm. P. Cole,
+who engaged in the manufacturing business in 1827, as a member of the
+firm of Clap, Cole & Co.
+
+At the time of Mr. Cole's retirement from the manufacturing business
+he was associated with his son, Wm. R. Cole, and his nephew, Wm. T.
+Brigham, as the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., who were then engaged in
+the jobbing hat business and located at No. 30 Sharp street, now 24
+Hopkins Place. In the year 1870 the firm was changed to Cole, Brigham
+& Co.; Mr. Cole retiring from active business only upon the
+dissolution of that firm in 1877, having been engaged in business on
+his own account more than half a century, leaving behind a record
+bright with faithfulness to duty, unspotted by any unmanly business
+transaction, brilliant in having met every business obligation; for,
+during the whole course of a long business life, he so systematically
+managed his affairs as to allow him to pass safely through the many
+perilous business periods he encountered.
+
+As a manufacturer, Mr. Cole acquired a wide reputation for the class
+of goods he produced, and when the demand was most exclusively for
+soft felt hats, those manufactured by him were considered the best
+made in the United States, and were sought by retailers far and near.
+
+While at the outbreak of the Civil War there may have lingered a vital
+spark in the hat industry, that event gave it, apparently, a death
+thrust. The relative position of Baltimore to both sides was
+disastrous to its business interests; being close upon the dividing
+line of hostilities, the sympathies of a large part of its citizens
+were enlisted in the cause of the South, while, singularly enough, the
+larger proportion of the wealth and business interests of the city was
+centered in persons allied by family ties to those of the North, who
+earnestly upheld the cause of the Union. Cut off from all intercourse
+with the South--its legitimate field for business--the share of
+Western trade that was enjoyed by Baltimore was lost by the strategy
+of war, for with the partial destruction of the Baltimore and Ohio
+Railroad the channel of her Western trade was diverted, and it drifted
+in other directions. While dissension and strife were being stirred in
+Baltimore and her industries lying dormant, business at the North was
+being stimulated by State and Government calls for articles necessary
+to equip an army for service. Hats were a needful part of an army's
+equipment, and Northern hat manufacturers were called upon for the
+supply; their factories soon assumed the life and activity of
+prosperity, creating a demand for additional skilled labor with good
+pay; this induced the unemployed Baltimore hatter to migrate and seek
+other places for his support. Thus did Baltimore part with an industry
+of importance closely identified with its prosperous early days,
+which, after passing through many vicissitudes, dwindled gradually
+until it became apparently extinct.
+
+
+
+
+FASHIONS.
+
+No. 12.
+
+
+The high crown hat, vulgarly termed "stove-pipe," may be taken as the
+general indicator of fashions existing during the period of the
+present century. Following the "cocked" hat (the counterpart of the
+French chapeau), which style prevailed at the time of the American
+Revolution, was the "steeple top," which had a conical crown. This
+shape for a high hat was soon abandoned and the bell crown
+substituted, and so acceptable has this particular style proved that,
+since the opening of this century, it has held supremacy as the
+fashionable head-covering for man, despite frequent attempts to
+destroy its popularity by the introduction of other shapes, or the
+advocating of a change as practical.
+
+High hats were first napped with beaver fur, which material, being
+expensive, necessarily made costly hats. Otter fur was afterwards
+used, then muskrat, which greatly lessened their cost.
+
+"Scratch" or "brush" hats (terms used for hats made with a felt body
+and afterwards combed or scratched until a nap was raised) were
+manufactured and worn prior to the middle of the century. These were
+all stiffened high hats, and constituted the dressy article of
+headwear until the introduction of the silk hat, which for the last
+fifty years has maintained its ascendency as the leading article of
+fashion in gentlemen's hats.
+
+About the year 1830 the beaver hat assumed huge proportions of crown,
+having a very heavy "bell," measuring full seven inches in height and
+nine inches across the tip; to this crown was added an insignificant
+brim of only one and a half inches in width. These hats were covered
+with a beaver nap of such a length that it waved with the wind, and
+its appearance upon the head of the wearer was as _outre_ and unique
+as the "shako" on the head of a modern drum-major.
+
+To more forcibly illustrate the proportions of this style of hat, we
+may say that its actual capacity was nearly a peck.
+
+Besides the high hats of either beaver, brush or silk, caps made of
+cloth or fur were much used prior to the introduction of the soft
+felt hat, and continued to be so until an incident occurred which
+created a sudden revolution in the tastes of the American people
+regarding their head-dress.
+
+The visit of Louis Kossuth, the eminent Hungarian patriot, to this
+country in the year 1851, had the effect of producing a wonderful
+change in the fashion of hats. The one worn by Kossuth was a high
+unstiffened black felt trimmed with a wide band, and was ornamented
+with an ostrich feather. The immense popularity of this famous
+foreigner with all Americans brought about the fashion of a similar
+hat. Never before or since in this country did the introduction of a
+new fashion in hats spread with such rapidity as did the "Kossuth."
+All hat factories in the country were taxed to their utmost capacity
+to supply the demand, until every American citizen, old and young, was
+to be seen wearing a soft hat ornamented with an ostrich plume. It was
+the "Kossuth" that marked the era of the introduction of the soft or
+slouch hat, and stimulated the sale of that undress article of
+headwear, which continued in vogue throughout the United States for a
+number of years. The soft hat appeared in many forms and styles, some
+of which became universally popular. The "wide-awake," brought out
+during the election campaign of Abraham Lincoln, in the year 1860,
+was a noted and successful style. It was a low crown, white felt, with
+wide black band and binding.
+
+Robert Bonner's original and successful advertising of his newspaper,
+the New York _Ledger_, was a sensation of the day, and the "Ledger"
+was the name given to a soft hat that commanded a great sale. The
+peculiarity of the "Ledger" was a narrow leather band and leather
+binding.
+
+The "resorte" brim was an American invention, introduced about the
+year 1863; it was simply a wire held to the edge of the brim of a soft
+hat with a binding, and so extended as to maintain a flatness, and
+permit its conforming to the head without destroying its outlines.
+This invention was patented, and its extensive use brought large
+profits to the owners of the patent.
+
+The event of the Civil War gave an increased stimulus to the use of
+the soft hat. With the South in a state of excitement, alarmed with
+portentous fears of a sectional war, such matters as pertained to
+elegance of dress were banished from the minds of its people, and the
+North, with a large army recruiting from its citizen class, brought
+the universal practice of economy among the American people, limiting
+their indulgence in expenditures for articles of dress considered as
+luxuries, and the silk hat falling under that ban, dropped almost into
+absolute disuse. With the return, however, of prosperity, an apparent
+desire for a more dressy article was manifest, and the stiff felt hat
+generally denominated the Derby was introduced.
+
+The derby was made in various proportions of crown and brim, as the
+caprice of fashion dictated, and was, as its name might imply, an
+adopted English style; it gradually grew in favor with Americans,
+until it became the universal fashion of the day, maintaining that
+position for several years. From an increased popularity it has been
+brought into such common use as to again create a growing desire for
+an article claiming something bearing a more exclusive mark of
+gentility or dignity, which the silk hat meets, and the silk hat is
+again so increasing in use as to establish the certainty of its
+maintaining with the American people its wonted place of priority as
+the article of genteel head-dress, marking the standard of fashion and
+style.
+
+Baltimore, always noted for its readiness in accepting foreign
+fashions, must have been among the first of American cities to adopt
+the silk hat, which was claimed to be of French invention, but if
+there be any foundation for the following narrative, the first silk
+hat was not made in Paris, but in China. It is stated that a French
+sea-captain, while sailing on the coast of China, desiring to have his
+shabby napped beaver hat, which had been made in Paris, replaced by a
+new one, took it ashore, probably to Calcutta or Canton, to see if he
+could procure one like it. As Parisian styles were not in vogue in
+China, he found nothing of closer resemblance than the lacquered
+papier-mache or bamboo straw. The keen shrewdness of the Chinaman,
+however, quickly suggested a near imitation in silk-plush. This is
+said to have happened in 1830, and the captain returning to Paris,
+showed the Chinaman's product to his own hatter, who, upon perceiving
+its beauty, at once attempted its introduction as a fashion, which has
+long ruled nearly the whole world.
+
+The first silk hat produced in Baltimore is said to have been made by
+one Victor Sarata in 1838, though some contend that Jacob Rogers was
+the first to make such goods; but as the silk hat was looked upon as
+an innovation, and its introduction opposed by hat makers of that
+time, as being detrimental to their interests, it is more than
+probable that Mr. Rogers did not give encouragement to the manufacture
+of an article likely to supplant the use of his own make of "Beavers,"
+"Russias" and "Bolivars," and we may thus safely give credit to Victor
+Sarata for first producing in Baltimore this new article of fashion,
+originating in Paris, the city from whence he came.
+
+Until the year 1850, Paris fashions were those generally adopted in
+the leading American cities, after which English fashions in hats
+entirely superseded the former, becoming so popular that not only
+large importations of English hats were made, but American
+manufacturers invariably copied English styles, and indulged in the
+degrading habit of pirating English trade-marks, for the purpose of
+increasing their sales. Happily, the necessity for such pernicious
+practices is at an end, for during the past ten years the great
+strides made by American manufacturers in the improvements of hat
+making place them in the foremost rank of that industry; in fact, with
+those elements of manufacture necessary to perfection, such as
+fineness of texture, lightness in weight, and elegance in style,
+American hatters to-day hold supremacy in the whole world, and,
+favored by relief from the tariff tax upon raw materials from which
+hats are made, all of which is of foreign growth, America will be
+found sending to the countries which taught her the art, examples of
+this industry far superior to those her teachers ever furnished her.
+
+[Illustration: THE "DERBY" OF 1889.]
+
+
+
+
+NEW DEVELOPMENTS.
+
+No. 13.
+
+
+A strange fact is that the Civil War, so disastrous in its effect upon
+the industries of Baltimore, was followed at its close by the rise of
+a new enterprise, of manufacturing straw hats, which so increased and
+extended that in number of establishments and volume of production it
+soon outrivalled those of fur hats in their most prosperous time, thus
+securing to this city a kindred business, greater in extent and
+importance than the one which had, by force of circumstances, been
+wrested from her. The good reputation which the products of the new
+industry has acquired in every part of the country has contributed not
+only to the prosperity of the city, but has assisted by adding credit
+for the high standard of its manufactured goods.
+
+In the year 1866 Mr. G. O. Wilson and Mr. Albert Sumner left their
+homes in Foxboro, Mass., in search of a promising field for
+establishing the business of renovating straw hats. Without any
+definite place in view, one city after another was visited, Baltimore
+being finally their chosen locality. Messrs. Wilson & Sumner
+associated with them Mr. W. C. Perry, who also came from Foxboro, and
+the firm was made Sumner & Perry, establishing themselves in the rear
+of No. 71, now 10 West Lexington street.
+
+Mr. Sumner withdrawing from the firm the same year, the two remaining
+partners continued the business at the same place as the firm of
+Wilson & Perry. At that time the retail price of straw hats was such
+as to allow a profitable business to be done in renovating and
+altering styles, and in that branch these persons met with success.
+
+Previous to this, however, others had been engaged in the business of
+bleaching and pressing straw hats. Among the first who entered into
+the business, as far as can be learned, was the firm of Rosenswig,
+Davidson & Ash, about the year 1848; they were cap manufacturers, and
+added the pressing of Leghorn hats as an auxiliary business. Mr.
+Samuel White, who learned his trade of the previously mentioned firm,
+afterwards carried on hat bleaching and pressing in connection with
+cap making, at No. 78 South Charles street (present No. 132). From
+1850 to 1865 extensive importations of German straw hats came into
+the port of Baltimore, and Mr. White did a large business in finishing
+these goods. In 1857 Mr. White commenced the jobbing hat business,
+forming in 1861 the firm of White, Rosenburg & Co., and is now in
+business at No. 9 South Howard street, of the firm of S. White & Son.
+
+Richard Hill, at present in the retail hat business at No. 5 South
+Liberty street, was formerly engaged in hat bleaching and pressing at
+the same locality.
+
+Messrs. Wilson & Perry continued to prosper in their enterprise, and,
+increasing their facilities, gradually developed it into straw goods
+manufacturing, confining their business for several years almost
+exclusively with two prominent Baltimore jobbing houses, who supplied
+sufficient patronage for their constantly increasing production; one
+of their patrons being Cole, Brigham & Co., the other Armstrong, Cator
+& Co., one of the largest millinery firms in the country.
+
+In 1877 Messrs. Wilson & Perry purchased the premises No. 101 West
+Lexington street, now 104, where they secured more commodious
+quarters, and, with an admirably equipped factory, continued to do a
+large and prosperous business. Mr. Perry died in 1880. In July, 1887,
+the firm title of Wilson & Perry was changed, Mr. Wilson associating
+with M. Frank, J. D. Horner and A. Levering, formed the firm of Wilson,
+Frank & Horner, and occupied the warehouse No. 204 West Baltimore
+street, in connection with the factory on Lexington street.
+
+In January, 1875, Isaac H. Francis and James E. Sumner, who had been
+in the employ of Wilson & Perry, started the straw hat manufacturing
+business at the N. W. corner of Lexington and Liberty streets, and in
+the following year Wm. T. Brigham (then of the firm of Cole, Brigham &
+Co.) became associated with them, the firm being made Francis, Sumner
+& Co. In 1877 the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co. was dissolved, Mr.
+Brigham becoming connected with R. D. Hopkins, as the firm of Brigham &
+Hopkins, occupying the premises No. 128 West Fayette street (present
+No. 211). In 1880 Mr. Hopkins was admitted as a partner in the firm of
+Francis, Sumner & Co., and Messrs. Francis and Sumner became members
+of the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, the interests of the two firms
+having always, in fact, been identical since they were first
+established. The two firms were continued until July, 1887, when, by
+the withdrawal of Mr. Sumner, they were dissolved, and became
+consolidated as the firm of Brigham, Hopkins & Co., now occupying the
+large and spacious factory at the corner of German and Paca streets,
+erected in 1884.
+
+In the year 1880 Messrs. Francis, Sumner & Co. placed their interest
+in their Lexington and Liberty street factory with Wm. Fales and Jas.
+M. Hopkins, transferring their own entire business to the enlarged
+premises at 128 W. Fayette street. Fales & Hopkins continued at the
+corner of Lexington and Liberty streets until the fall of 1883, when
+Mr. Hopkins, forced by declining health to give up business, sold his
+interest to Mr. Louis Oudesluys, the firm becoming Fales & Oudesluys.
+Mr. James M. Hopkins died of consumption at Colorado Springs,
+February, 1884.
+
+In 1885 S. C. Townsend and John W. Grace became associated with Messrs.
+Fales & Oudesluys, and a new firm formed, as Fales, Oudesluys & Co.,
+continuing for two years, when it was dissolved, Messrs. Townsend and
+Grace remaining as the firm of Townsend, Grace & Co., at 128 W.
+Fayette street, while Messrs. Fales and Oudesluys formed a new firm,
+as Fales, Oudesluys & Co., locating at 115 S. Eutaw street. Mr. Fales
+remained in the latter firm but a few months, when it was again
+changed to that of Oudesluys Bros., comprised of Louis, Adrian and
+Eugene Oudesluys, now doing business at 115 S. Eutaw street.
+
+In 1878 Mr. M. S. Levy, who was then a cap maker, commenced the
+finishing of straw hats, having the hats sewed by others, while he did
+the finishing and trimming, his place of business being then at the
+N. E. corner of Sharp and German streets.
+
+With increasing trade, Mr. Levy removed in 1881 to more spacious
+quarters at Nos. 318 and 320 W. Baltimore street (present numbers 216
+and 218), where he commenced the general manufacture of straw hats. In
+1883 he took his two sons into partnership, the firm being made M. S.
+Levy & Sons; their premises being destroyed by fire in October, 1886,
+they removed to 117 S. Sharp street. In September, 1888, being again
+the victims of fire, they occupied temporarily the premises N. E. cor.
+Paca and German streets, remaining there until taking possession of
+their present extensive factory located at the N. W. cor. of Paca and
+Lombard streets.
+
+In 1880 Tomz, Richardson & Co. commenced in a small way to manufacture
+straw hats at No. 341 W. Baltimore street (now 317), but, from lack of
+business experience, soon abandoned the undertaking.
+
+Messrs. Bateman & Richardson in 1882 embarked in the business,
+occupying a portion of the premises No. 5 S. Liberty street. In 1883
+Mr. Scutch was admitted as a partner, the firm becoming Bateman,
+Richardson & Co., and, removing to No. 55 St. Paul street (now 313),
+continued until 1885; not meeting with anticipated success, they gave
+up the business.
+
+Messrs. Francis O. Cole & Co. in 1882 commenced the manufacture of
+straw goods, erecting for the purpose a building at Nos. 7 and 9
+Saratoga street (now 424 E. Saratoga), continuing business until 1885,
+when the firm was dissolved.
+
+Mr R. Q. Taylor has long been engaged in the manufacture of Mackinaw
+straw hats as a specialty. His acquaintance with and interest in this
+product dates as far back as 1850, when he first used the Mackinaw for
+his retail trade, since which, every season the "Mackinaw" has been
+the prominent straw hat sent from his establishment, and for a period
+of fifteen years was the _only_ article of straw hat retailed by him.
+The successful control of a special style as an article of fashion for
+thirty-five consecutive years is a remarkable record, an
+accomplishment that plainly shows ability as a leader of fashion, for
+which Mr. Taylor's natural capacity so well fits him.
+
+Mr. Taylor confined the use of the "Mackinaw" hat strictly to his
+retail demands until after the year 1868, since when he has
+manufactured the article for the trade, distributing his products over
+the entire country, and establishing for "Taylor's Mackinaws" a
+national fame.
+
+In addition to the manufacture of men's and boys' straw hats, which
+class has heretofore comprised the larger proportion of such goods
+made in Baltimore, another branch, that of ladies' straw goods, has
+been developed, and is already assuming interesting proportions,
+promising to become a valuable addition to this industry.
+
+Messrs. Wolford & Shilburg in 1883 commenced the manufacture of
+ladies' straw goods at No. 6 E. Pratt street, remaining at that place
+for one year, removing in 1883 to No. 205 Camden street, where they
+are now located.
+
+In 1887, Messrs. L. W. Sumner, G. K. Thompson and D. Whitney, as the
+firm of Sumner, Thompson & Whitney, commenced the manufacture of
+ladies' and misses' straw goods, locating their factory at 317 N.
+Howard street.
+
+At the present time there are in Baltimore, apparently in prosperous
+condition, eight straw hat establishments, giving employment to eleven
+hundred hands, male and female, and producing annually, manufactured
+goods to the value of upwards of a million dollars, in the
+distribution of which Baltimore is brought into close business contact
+with every State and Territory of the Union, and the city's importance
+as a manufacturing centre is enhanced by the character of articles
+sent forth by those engaged in this class of business.
+
+
+
+
+GROWTH OF BUSINESS.
+
+No. 14.
+
+
+For many years the Mackinaw took precedence of all straw hats as the
+most desirable summer article for gentlemen's headwear, far
+out-rivalling in its success as a fashion any other straw product ever
+introduced to the American people. Having attained this prominent
+position mainly through its successful management by Baltimore
+manufacturers, it forms an important factor in the prosperity of the
+straw hat industry of Baltimore. In fact it is the actual foundation
+of the present large and increasing straw goods business of the city
+to-day.
+
+While the Mackinaw hat had previously found favor with a few prominent
+retailers, it was not until the year 1868 that Mr. W. T. Brigham, then
+of the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., observing the merits of the article,
+concluded to undertake its introduction to the trade, to whom it was
+generally quite unknown. Among those who had used profitably the
+Mackinaw for their retail trade were R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
+Charles Oakford, W. F. Warburton and Louis Blaylock, of Philadelphia.
+Though it was an article of domestic production, the beauty and
+commendable qualities of the Mackinaw were indeed a surprising
+revelation to the trade at large. Each year added to the popularity of
+the Mackinaw, until it became the acceptable American straw hat,
+without which no first-class retailer could consider his stock
+complete. While the great demand existed, Baltimore continued to
+supply the larger proportion of all the Mackinaw hats sold, and taking
+advantage of the reputation thus gained for such goods, her
+manufacturers produced other kinds of straw hats, and by the exercise
+of proper care and attention acquired such skill as to secure for the
+straw goods products of Baltimore the worthy reputation of being the
+best made in the United States, consequently and beyond contradiction
+the best in the world.
+
+In the earliest days of straw hat making in Baltimore, at the time
+when the Mackinaw was being introduced, the sewing of straw hats by
+machine was a new invention, and practically a close monopoly
+controlled by a strong combination of wealthy straw goods
+manufacturers of the North, who, jointly as a stock company, prevented
+the sale of the straw sewing machines outside their own circle.
+Fortunately for the success of the new undertaking in Baltimore, the
+good qualities of the Mackinaw hat were more satisfactorily retained
+by hand sewing, rendering machines in their manufacture a useless
+requirement.
+
+Thus an advantage was gained in supplying a hand-sewed hat, embodying
+such points of perfection in style and finish as to quite surprise
+those not familiar with the manufacture of such goods. The "Mackinaw"
+of Baltimore make continued to grow in popular favor until it had
+secured a greater distribution than was ever before attained by any
+other article of straw hat, making a remarkable record for tenacity,
+by holding for upwards of fifteen successive years, popularity as the
+leading article of summer headwear.
+
+Baltimore continued to enlarge and increase her straw hat factories
+and improve their products, so that now in this industry she stands in
+the proud position of being the leading city in the United States in
+the production of the best class of straw hats.
+
+This, in brief, is a history of another branch of the hat business,
+which attained large proportions, supplementing the one which, having
+gained a degree of importance in the manufacturing history of the
+city, was by force of circumstances reduced to comparative
+insignificance.
+
+The growth of the straw hat business of Baltimore may be looked upon
+as somewhat phenomenal. The first introduction of the Mackinaw hat by
+William R. Cole & Co., in 1867, may be taken as the beginning of
+straw goods manufacturing, and with but a single manufacturing firm
+existing in 1875, its development and increase dates from that time.
+It is doubtful if in 1875 the total value of manufactured straw goods
+produced in Baltimore reached the sum of $75,000, while in the face of
+a steady and constant decline in values--the result of labor-saving
+machines, together with reduced cost of raw material--an increase in
+production of twenty-fold is an accomplishment of less than fifteen
+years. This success cannot be attributed to any local advantages, but
+is due entirely to the energy, enterprise and business qualifications
+of those engaged in the business, qualifications which have
+accomplished the result of giving valuable assistance in the city's
+advancement as an important manufacturing centre. It has also, by the
+recognized merits of its products, lent a worthy influence throughout
+the whole United States in sustaining the excellent reputation long
+enjoyed by Baltimore for the good quality and reliability of its
+manufactured goods.
+
+
+
+
+HISTORY OF THE MACKINAW HAT.
+
+No. 15.
+
+
+A result of the remarkable popularity of the Mackinaw straw hat was,
+that Baltimore came rapidly forward as a straw goods manufacturing
+place, becoming important as a center in that particular branch of
+business; therefore a history of the article which contributed so
+largely to the development of this industry is likely to prove both
+interesting and instructive.
+
+"Mackinaw," as a trade term or name, does not, as might be supposed,
+indicate the region from whence the articles comes, but undoubtedly
+received its christening from some one of the few retailers who early
+used these goods, in order to create a distinction from a similar,
+but much inferior article, then termed the "Canada" hat. While both
+the "Mackinaw" and the "Canada" are made of wheat straw, the
+difference between the two, as the product of one country and of
+nearly the same latitude, is a great surprise. The wheat of the
+eastern part of Canada produces a straw dark in color, harsh in
+texture, and of little use for making a hat, while that grown in the
+western part of the same country is clear and white in color,
+possessing a brilliant enamel which imparts the beauty that rendered
+the Mackinaw so famous as an article of fashion.
+
+The Mackinaw must be considered a local rather than a national
+production, coming as it does from a region comprised within a small
+radius around the city of Detroit, part of which is Canadian territory
+and part within the borders of the United States; for while
+considerable straw from which the plait is made is raised and plaited
+within the limits of the State of Michigan, by far the largest
+proportion, as also the best quality, is the product of the Canadian
+territory. Nature seems to have provided a small community with
+unusual advantages, for within a limited territory has been produced
+all the large quantity of straw plait required to supply the popular
+demand that for many years existed for Mackinaw hats, and all efforts
+elsewhere to produce material combining the peculiarities of this
+straw, from which these hats were made, invariably failed.
+
+The claim of the Mackinaw to antiquity and long use is perhaps as
+strong as that of other plaits with which the trade has become
+familiar, for no doubt the natives of the country made use of these
+hats as a head-covering long before they became an article of trade.
+
+The Mackinaw was for many years after its first introduction sold
+under the designation of the "Canada" hat, the name given to a similar
+but comparatively degraded article produced in Lower, or Eastern
+Canada; and the title Mackinaw was first applied by the late Mr.
+Charles Oakford, of Philadelphia, or by Mr. R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore,
+each of whom were among the first to make it a fashionable hat.
+
+The makers of these goods are wholly the poor, ignorant half-breeds,
+who spring from the Canadian French and the Indian. Finding that hats,
+as well as the skins of the animals they trapped, could be traded for,
+the family talent was brought into use to produce something that might
+contribute to their meagre subsistence. So during the winter season,
+while the men hunted the muskrat, the Indian women and children
+plaited straw and made hats, which, on the opening of spring, were
+carried with the skins obtained by the hunters, to the towns, where
+they were exchanged for food, drink, clothing and ammunition.
+
+To the advantages of soil and climate is attributed that purity of
+color, brilliancy of enamel, toughness of fibre and elasticity of
+texture which are recommendations of the Mackinaw. Added to these
+natural qualities was the advantage of a peculiar treatment given to
+the straw by the natives, who employed a whitening or bleaching
+process without the use of chemicals, giving increased beauty to the
+article.
+
+During the prosperity of Mackinaw straw plaiting, a prominent
+character among the half-breeds was one Madame Lousseux, a sturdy,
+aged matron, with twelve hearty daughters, who, inheriting their
+mother's prolific nature, were in turn each the proprietress of a
+family of a dozen boys and girls. They all appeared to inherit the old
+lady's natural ability and wonderful expertness, and surpassed all
+competitors in the plaiting of the straw. The choicest products in
+braid and hats came from the Lousseux family.
+
+In 1834, and for many years after, these goods were sold and used only
+as ordinary harvest hats. It now seems surprising that an article
+possessing such attractive merits should have occupied a secondary
+position and been so long in establishing the reputation it finally
+secured. The first person, as far as discovered, who used this article
+for retail purposes as a genteel and fashionable hat, was Henry
+Griswold in the year 1845, who did business in the then little and
+obscure town of Racine, Wisconsin. The Raciners must have been people
+of an appreciative and refined taste, as it appears that Mr. Griswold
+sold the hat for several seasons to his own advantage.
+
+Prior to 1846 these goods were sold in New York by Leland, Mellen &
+Co., at that time the largest wholesale hat firm in the country. Mr.
+Mellen retired from business in 1851. In reply to a personal inquiry
+of the writer in the year 1874, Mr. Mellen wrote from Framingham,
+Mass., as follows:
+
+"The Canada straw hat from the region of Detroit was sold by our firm
+as early as 1845. After being blocked and trimmed, they were sold as
+an ordinary staple hat. We sold a few to John H. Genin, W. H. Beebe &
+Co., and Charles Knox, then the leading retail hatters of Broadway. I
+think, however, they were sold by them only as a fishing or harvest
+hat. We continued to receive these goods from Detroit for several
+seasons, until an article from Lower Canada, of inferior quality and
+less price, made its appearance, and stopped the sale, as far as we
+were concerned."
+
+The exact date of the appearance of the Mackinaw in Philadelphia
+cannot be accurately determined, but it must have been as early as
+1847. Messrs. Beebe, Coster & Co., a prominent retail firm in
+Philadelphia, in 1849, sold the tapering crown, wide brim "Canada
+straw hat." From about 1855 to 1860 the Mackinaw became so very
+popular in the Quaker City that it was recognized as a leading
+article. The prominent retailers then using it were Charles Oakford,
+W. F. Warburton, Louis Blaylock, and Sullender & Pascall; each of these
+firms themselves finished the straw hats, taking them as they were
+sewed by the natives, which was with a taper crown and wide brim,
+making little pretence to any variety in style or proportion. Messrs.
+Sullender & Pascall made an advanced step and undertook one season to
+sell the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats, preparing
+them in various shapes and for the first time adapting them to the
+requirements and tastes of a "nobby" trade.
+
+In 1847 William Ketchem of Buffalo, E. B. Wickes of Syracuse, and John
+Heywood & Sons of Rochester sold these hats. In 1848 L. Benedict &
+Co., prominent retailers of Cleveland, handled the goods. This firm
+was followed next season by Messrs. R. & N. Dockstadter, then a very
+prominent concern in the same place. In 1849 they were sold in
+Sandusky by C. C. Keech.
+
+The Mackinaw during these periods must have been introduced and sold
+in other places, but it had not secured its recognition as an article
+worthy of being placed on a level with foreign productions, which
+were then considered the desirable and suitable straw hat for genteel
+wear. It was probably not until after the year 1855 that the article
+received its title of "Mackinaw," and not until then did it secure its
+well merited, dignified position.
+
+By far the largest retailer of the Mackinaw hat in this country, and
+the one to whom belongs the greatest credit in popularizing it, is Mr.
+R. Q. Taylor, of Baltimore. He introduced the hat to his customers as
+far back as 1850, and for _thirty_ consecutive seasons sold it without
+any apparent diminution of popularity. For many years Mr. Taylor sold
+the Mackinaw to the exclusion of all other straw hats. At one time so
+identified did the Mackinaw become with the people of this city, that
+it was said a Baltimorean might be recognized anywhere by the straw
+hat he wore. Mr. Taylor asserts that in the years 1872 and 1873 he
+retailed from his own counter, in the two seasons, upwards of 9000
+hats. The reputation of the Mackinaw has been admirably sustained by
+Mr. Taylor, whose firm is still engaged in their manufacture, with a
+constant demand for them. Probably no other straw hat ever introduced
+to the American public can show such a continued and extended sale. In
+1868 Messrs. Wm. R. Cole & Co., predecessors of the present firm of
+Brigham, Hopkins & Co., commenced to produce these goods for the
+general trade, and it is to their efforts that much of the widespread
+popularity of the Mackinaw is due. They first tried these hats with
+their own local trade, and finding them eminently successful, ventured
+to offer them in New York, meeting with much encouragement. From a
+small commencement their trade in these goods continued to increase
+until a large and well established business was secured, continuing to
+grow in volume and extent, and becoming the precursor of an industry
+that places Baltimore in a leading position as a manufacturing place
+for straw goods.
+
+
+
+
+MODERN IMPROVEMENTS.
+
+No. 16.
+
+
+In the rank of those whose successful undertakings have contributed
+towards the restoration to Baltimore of a lost industry, and placing
+it upon such a foundation as to have it recognized as one of
+importance, no firm stands more prominent or has done more towards its
+accomplishment than that of Brigham, Hopkins & Co. The straw hat
+business inaugurated by this firm's immediate predecessors, and
+encouraged by their own efforts, has grown in volume and strength
+until Baltimore is now designated in trade parlance "the straw hat
+city," rightfully claiming the honor of surpassing in this class of
+her manufactured products the efforts of all rivals of this or of any
+other country.
+
+Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co., while possessing a large business,
+have the pleasure of conducting it in a spacious building, whose
+architectural design is one of the handsomest of its kind in the
+country, and whose conveniences for the successful prosecution of
+their business cannot be excelled. A business coming from one of its
+pioneers through a direct succession of firms gives to Brigham,
+Hopkins & Co. a natural pride in such an inheritance, and brings also
+a pleasure in being able to trace its progress from its origin,
+showing how this branch of manufacture was at an early day brought to
+an admirable condition of prosperity, afterwards to pass through a
+period of almost total decay, then again to attain a development that
+entitles it to rank with any of the successful and prominent
+industries of the city.
+
+It is a pleasant reflection as well as a happy coincidence that the
+restoration of a forsaken industry, once a vital element in the city's
+life and activity, is greatly due to the labors of the firm who, in
+this branch, connect the past with the present, the old with the new.
+
+The enterprising business traits manifested by Runyon Harris, in
+erecting, in the year 1814, a large hat factory in this city, seemed
+to have prompted his various successors to a spirit of emulation,
+enabling them to preserve the legacy bequeathed them, and to
+perpetuate that reputation for meritorious products that was so early
+earned in the factory of Mr. Harris.
+
+Following the erection of the factory by Mr. Harris came the firm of
+Aaron Clap & Co., who purchased the property and commenced in 1817 the
+manufacture of hats, and a remarkable fact--one encouraging an innate
+pride in their successors--is that during three-quarters of a century
+all of the firms inheriting a title of descent from that of Aaron Clap
+& Co. have passed in safety through every financial convulsion of the
+country, and have promptly met every pecuniary obligation incurred.
+
+Although during the former period of prosperity in the hat business of
+Baltimore, felt hats only were manufactured, which business was
+completely reduced by the unfortunate conditions existing at the time
+of the Civil War; its revival came through the establishing of a
+different branch, that of the manufacture of straw hats; and while
+Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. have lately entered extensively into
+the manufacture of silk and felt hats also, it is the purpose of this
+article to dwell more particularly upon facts relating to the straw
+hat branch that has contributed so largely in bringing Baltimore once
+again forward as a leading hat manufacturing city.
+
+Prior to 1860 Messrs. Wm. P. Cole & Son, then manufacturers and
+jobbers, became especially interested in the straw goods branch of
+their business. Being at that time manufacturers of the best class of
+felt hats, the straw goods sold by them were all made in the factories
+of the North. Machines for sewing the straw braid were not then in
+use, and much of the straw products of foreign countries came ready
+sewed in shapes that were very irregular in proportions and sizes. The
+looseness of the stitches in sewing rendered the use of glue a
+necessity in the manufacture of the hats, producing an article of
+headwear that gave but little comfort. Suggestions for improvements
+were given the manufacturers, who adopted them with advantage to
+themselves. The first suggestion made by the Baltimore firm was an
+improvement in the appearance of the hat by trimming it with wider
+bands. At that time the use of bands about 14 lines wide was
+prevalent, and the adoption of 23-line bands was looked upon as a very
+radical departure. The substitution of leather sweats for those of oil
+muslin was also first undertaken by the Baltimore firm; following
+which, the most important improvement ever gained in the production of
+straw goods was conceived and executed in this city, which was the
+abandonment of the heavy glue-sizing and the manufacture of the
+comfortable "flexible finish" straw hat, an accomplishment secured by
+careful attention to the proper sewing of the goods aided by hand
+finish.
+
+For several years Wm. P. Cole & Son and their successors had straw
+hats of their own designing made and finished at the North, continuing
+to suggest improvements which were made at their command, and the
+privilege of retaining which for their own trade was for the time
+extended to them by the manufacturers, from which they gained such
+advantages as would arise from having goods superior to and differing
+from the general class sold by others.
+
+It was in the year 1875, upon the dissolution of the firm of Cole,
+Brigham & Co., that Mr. W. T. Brigham and Mr. R. D. Hopkins, uniting as
+the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, became straw hat manufacturers. The
+Mackinaw straw hat had at this time gained well in popularity; the
+natural firmness and flexibility of the Mackinaw were merits
+particularly acceptable to the trade, and the new firm made a careful
+study of embodying as far as possible in the manufacture of all their
+straw hats, those essential points possessed by the Mackinaw. So
+successful were their efforts that, by the exercise of thorough
+watchfulness, they continued to improve, until they secured for their
+products a celebrity that gave the firm the foremost position in the
+trade.
+
+Following the onward movement of the straw hat business in Baltimore
+since its first introduction (less than twenty years ago), it is
+interesting to watch its constant and steady growth, and to observe
+the advance that has been accomplished. Even before Messrs. Brigham &
+Hopkins entered upon the business, a great improvement in the straw
+goods had already been made through the favorable impetus imparted by
+their predecessors. Straw hats which from a lack of style and comfort
+had heretofore played a secondary part in the conditions of man's
+costume, were so much improved in style and finish as to be accepted
+as a desirable article of dress, thus an increased demand was created
+for them.
+
+To still further improve the straw hat, and as near as possible secure
+perfection, was the aim of the Baltimore manufacturers.
+
+Entering the field with the commendable object of producing a class of
+goods that should be recognized as the best, Messrs. Brigham &
+Hopkins, abandoning traditional ways, commenced their work upon a
+thoroughly independent basis; copying after none, but relying upon
+their own ingenuity; striving to improve upon every last effort,
+observing and studying the wants and needs of their customers, they
+continued to put forth a class of goods bearing an undoubted stamp of
+originality, which, being supplemented by excellent workmanship and
+the use of good materials, resulted in securing a large patronage, and
+brought to them a constantly increasing trade. In this way did the
+firm secure a recognized position at the head of the straw hat
+industry of the country, and gained for their products a reputation
+for excellence in style and finish that is widespread over the whole
+country. American manufacturers had a long and tedious struggle in
+their efforts to overcome the prejudices of the people existing in
+favor of foreign productions, but steady endeavors to win the approval
+of Americans for American made hats have scored a genuine success, and
+the American gentleman of to-day may take a just pride in wearing a
+straw hat of Baltimore make--one not to be excelled.
+
+
+
+
+A MODEL ESTABLISHMENT.
+
+No. 17.
+
+
+That part of the history of Baltimore which relates to the present
+position of its hat industry is especially interesting, as it records
+a business that has acquired large proportions, placing it prominently
+among the many important manufactures of this city.
+
+A business identified with the very earliest days of the city's
+existence, growing and assuming in its movement a condition of vigor
+and prosperity that is encouraging for the future, has given to
+Baltimore a name and fame that places her in an enviable position at
+the very head of the hat-manufacturing cities of this country.
+
+As an example, showing the growth and progress of the hat business,
+and giving evidence of its extent in Baltimore at the present time,
+no better illustration could be offered than a description of the
+complete establishment erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co. for
+the requirements of their extensive business.
+
+[Illustration: PRESENT FACTORY OF BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO.]
+
+While at the present time the hat business of Baltimore is largely
+confined to the special manufacture of straw goods, a revived movement
+made by one firm in the manufacture of silk and felt hats assures a
+development of that branch of the business also into such proportions
+that ere long it may restore to Baltimore the prestige and rank it
+once held as the manufacturing centre of high grades of that class of
+goods.
+
+Going back to the early period of 1814, Runyon Harris, the predecessor
+of this firm, in advance of his time displayed evidence of progressive
+ideas by erecting what was then considered a large and spacious
+factory. His structure was one hundred and twenty-five feet in length,
+about twenty-five in width, and two and a half stories high; the area
+of space upon the two floors, which was alone suited for work-people,
+was 6200 square feet.
+
+The line of successors to Runyon Harris have all been found
+proverbially enterprising and energetic, always noted as active and
+successful manufacturers of their day. Inheriting somewhat the spirit
+of activity so marked in their worthy predecessors, Messrs. Brigham,
+Hopkins & Co. are found in the advance, and make no idle boast of an
+establishment whose breadth of space, architectural beauty, and
+convenience of arrangement find few rivals in the whole catalogue of
+similar business places in this country. Their warehouse, prominently
+situated, rising six stories above ground, being one hundred and fifty
+feet deep by forty in width, gives a surface area of 42,000 square
+feet of work room, all of which is provided with unusual advantages
+for daylight and ventilation. Added to this is the detached
+"make-shop" of the firm, located at Relay Station, on the line of the
+Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, nine miles from the city.[2] It is a high
+studded building, of one story, built in this manner to allow the
+condensing and evaporation of steam, which escapes from the
+"batteries" of boiling water, around which the men are constantly at
+work. This building is one hundred and thirty by sixty feet, giving in
+addition to the city warehouse 7800 square feet, or a total in round
+numbers of 50,000 square feet, upwards of an acre of working space,
+which is a good showing of growth and expansion when contrasted with
+one of the best establishments of the year 1814.
+
+[2] This department has lately been removed to the city, and is
+located corner Paca and King streets.
+
+The handsome structure at the corner of German and Paca streets was
+erected by Messrs. Brigham, Hopkins & Co., designed and arranged to
+suit the demands of their own manufacturing business. Ground was
+broken in the month of April, 1884, and the building completed and
+occupied in January, 1885. It has a frontage of forty-one feet six
+inches on German street, and extends back on Paca street one hundred
+and fifty feet to Cider Alley.
+
+Located upon one of the broadest thoroughfares, at a point which is
+the water-shed of this part of the city, being at the level of one
+hundred feet above tide-water, it rises prominently among other fine
+warehouses surrounding it, showing its array of architectural beauty
+to advantage, for it is one of the most imposing of the mercantile
+structures of the city. The building is constructed of Baltimore
+pressed brick and the famous Potomac red sandstone, which together so
+harmonize in color as to render a very pleasing effect; the
+ornamentations surrounding the windows are in terra-cotta and moulded
+brick. The style of the building is Romanesque, or round arched. Very
+striking features are the immense arched openings upon the Paca street
+facade, being seventeen feet in width and twenty-five feet in height,
+which with their broad treatment of mullioned panels and heavy
+rough-hewn stonework, give strength and character to the building.
+These spacious windows are not simply for effect, but designate the
+location of the principal offices, and by their wide expanse afford
+abundance of light to the show-rooms, making these departments
+particularly attractive by the cheerful airiness and brightness that
+plenty of sunlight always brings.
+
+[Illustration: THE LARGE OFFICE WINDOWS.]
+
+Throughout the whole building is a generous treatment of spacious
+windows, flooding the interior with a bountiful supply of light, so
+necessary to the production of properly manufactured goods as well as
+to the health and comfort of the work-people.
+
+The main entrance to this building is marked by its liberal dimension.
+A slight elevation is made from the sidewalk, and beyond a recess of
+several feet are framed two large French plate glass windows, which
+afford a view of the entire extent of the first floor with its offices
+and extensive storage room. Entrance doors are placed on either side
+of this recess.
+
+[Illustration: THE FRONT ENTRANCE.]
+
+Broad stairways connect every floor, providing easy and quick ingress
+and egress at both the front and the back part of the building,
+rendering in the greatest degree security to the lives of those
+employed within.
+
+Adjoining, in the rear, is another structure three stories high,
+separated from the main building by fire-proof brick walls, and used
+as a boiler-room, as also for other departments of work desirable to
+be kept apart from the general work-rooms. This separate building was
+designed as an additional means of safety, in not having the large
+boilers within the limits of the main building.
+
+From basement to roof this model factory is well equipped with all
+necessary modern plans for producing the best that is capable of being
+made in this manufacturing line.
+
+
+
+
+WAYS AND MEANS OF THE PRESENT TIME.
+
+No. 18.
+
+
+Taking the start for a tour of inspection through the establishment of
+Brigham, Hopkins & Co., one is ushered directly into the first or main
+floor of the building, which is partly occupied by offices for the
+members of the firm and for the necessary clerical force, as well as
+the show-rooms for the exhibit of the products of this factory. These
+various apartments are partitioned off with handsomely beaded cherry,
+and a series of arched windows give beauty to the architecture and
+serve the practical purpose of ventilation.
+
+The several rooms upon this floor are handsomely finished in solid
+cherry; this was done solely with the view of harmonizing the effect
+with that of the exterior of the building, rather than for an
+indulgence in luxury.
+
+In the first office is a capacious fire-proof vault, having its
+counterpart in size in the basement, upon which the one in the office
+rests; it is built of yellow enameled-face brick, and with its
+handsomely finished iron door surmounted with a bold decoration in
+terra-cotta, adds greatly to the ornamentation of this room. The desks
+are all of cherry, large and capacious, designed expressly for the
+required accommodation of the bookkeepers.
+
+Adjoining is the private office of the members of the firm; among the
+decorations of this room is a spacious open fire-place, ornamented
+with terra-cotta tile and a handsome mantelpiece in carved cherry. The
+carpeted floor and tasty furniture serve to give that comfort that is
+looked for in the modern office of the business man. Beyond and
+leading from this office are show-rooms for the exhibition of the
+firm's products. These show-rooms, two in number, are without doubt
+the best in finish, breadth of space and arrangement of any in this
+branch of business in the United States, affording the best
+conveniences for the display of the handsome goods they contain; the
+first in size, 25 x 18 feet, with an adjoining one 18 x 12 feet, is
+supplied with handsomely designed show-cases of solid cherry and of
+glass; the wall space is colored a light tint, while the ceilings are
+laid off in yellow and brown. A long table of cherry occupies the
+centre of the large room, while the hard-wood floors are partially
+covered with oriental rugs. When these rooms are filled with the
+choice products of the firm, embracing the finest qualities of straw,
+with their trimmings of various hues and colors, intermingled with the
+sombre black of the derbys and the brilliant lustre of the silk hat,
+upon which is thrown a bountiful supply of light that comes from the
+spacious windows, a striking melange of harmonious colors is produced.
+Here the customer is surrounded by all that is desired from which to
+make his selection.
+
+[Illustration: A BIT OF THE OFFICES]
+
+Beyond these show-rooms is still another room devoted to the valuable
+collection of hat trimmings. While to the uninitiated the trimmings of
+a hat, consisting merely of its band and binding, may appear quite
+insignificant, yet to the manufacturer it is a part of great
+importance. Here in this room, stored in various quantities, are two
+hundred different designs of hat-bands, every one of which is the
+product of a French or German loom, mostly made from original designs
+furnished and sent abroad to be executed for this firm.
+
+From this, the last of the series of departments on this floor, exit
+is gained to the remaining space, which is used for the packing and
+storing of goods ordered and received finished from the factory.
+
+With an ascent to the second floor by a broad stairway, the
+"finishing" department of silk and fur hats is entered; this
+department occupies the entire space of this floor. Here the silk hat
+is made and finished complete, and the derby, whose process of
+manufacture belongs to several departments, receives its finishing
+touches, of curling and setting the brim, after which it is neatly
+nested in tissue paper and placed in paper boxes to be sent to the
+packer.
+
+The third floor provides three departments: that of silk and felt hat
+trimming, straw hat trimming department, and that very valuable and
+necessary auxiliary to business, the printing department. Although two
+branches of the hat business are carried on under the same roof (that
+of straw and that of silk and felt hats), they are kept entirely
+separate and distinct in all their requirements and details, which
+affords a reason for the difference in aspect of the trimming
+departments on this floor. In one, the multitude of busy hands is at
+work upon hats of black, while in the adjoining department, the many
+nimble fingers are handling the light and delicate straw and the
+bright ribbons, making a contrast of the sombre with the gay.
+
+Entering the next department, we find that element of development,
+that force of propulsion by means of which modern business plans are
+moved and executed--the printing press. This department is fitted and
+furnished complete with such requirements as are necessary to the
+advance of an enterprising business. A large Gordon press, propelled
+by steam power, is kept constantly in use to supply the vast amount
+of printing required in the details of this business. Tips, labels,
+size-marks, tickets for use in the various departments of "making,"
+"sewing," "sizing," "finishing," and "blocking." Order tickets,
+coupons, boxes and box labels and mercantile printing are but a
+portion of the work done here. In addition, a patent gas-heating press
+is used for printing in gold and silver leaf. There also emanates from
+this department a monthly trade journal, conducted under the auspices
+of the firm.
+
+Ascending to the fourth floor, the noisy sound of machinery is first
+heard. This is the department for sewing straw braid; here
+unquestionably centres the interest in a hat factory; the hum of a
+hundred machines quickens the pulse, and to the observer, the interest
+and astonishment increases as the wonderful machine with its lightning
+speed, guided by the magic touch of the young woman who rules it,
+draws towards itself yard after yard of the delicate strand of straw
+plait which it sews together by the finest stitch of the most slender
+thread, till suddenly a hat comes forth, complete in its full
+perfection of shape. One's surprise would not be more greatly
+heightened by a display of the magician's art. The marvel of this
+accomplishment may be effectively demonstrated by a simple statement.
+That bit of mechanism occupying a space of 10 x 12 inches, with its
+apparently simple arrangement of levers and cogs, merely carrying a
+needle to and fro, up and down, will do in a single minute the work an
+industrious woman with her unaided fingers could not do in less than
+an hour. That little machine is capable of doing within the working
+hours of a day the labor of sixty women; while a hundred machines in a
+factory are capable of producing the handwork of six thousand people;
+this shows the progress of the world, and the advance that has come
+to this branch of industry within the last thirty years.
+
+[Illustration: SEWING DEPARTMENT.]
+
+Straw braid preparatory to being sewed is wound upon reels, from which
+it is easily fed to the sewing machine; this department of winding and
+reeling is also located upon this floor.
+
+Adjoining is the machine room. This department is not only the
+hospital for invalid and incapacitated machines, where they receive
+the treatment required to put them in suitable working condition, but
+its field of usefulness is extended to the making of much of the
+required machinery, implements and various tools used throughout the
+establishment.
+
+Another flight of stairs and the fifth floor is reached. This is the
+straw hat pressing department, occupied entirely by men. Here are the
+more weighty evidences of labor and work. Heavy and powerful hydraulic
+presses are used in shaping the ordinary kinds of straw hats, and the
+necessary metal moulds that form the "dies" for these machines
+represent tons of zinc. Also in this room is row after row of benches,
+equipped for that special branch of "hand-finish," which has so
+greatly assisted in the reputation of the straw hats sent from this
+establishment. These benches each accommodate six workmen, are
+supplied with a labor-saving appliance of great merit, the invention
+of one of the firm's employees and at present in use only in this
+factory, which is, that by means of rubber tubes a combination of gas
+and air is carried into the pressing irons, by which heat is regulated
+to any required degree. The advantage of this may be realized when it
+is known that heretofore these press-irons were heated by "slugs" or
+pieces of iron or steel, which, drawn from the furnaces of anthracite
+coal fires, were encased in the hollow irons. By this new invention a
+remarkable saving is made, by the abandonment of the furnace, in the
+coal necessarily used, also in the not insignificant matter of time
+consumed by the presser in the constant replenishing of "slugs." Its
+work is acceptable to the workman and desirable for securing an
+improvement to the goods.
+
+[Illustration: STRAW HAT FINISHING DEPARTMENT.]
+
+The next, the sixth floor, has a department of both the straw and felt
+hat branches of the business. The finishing department of felt hats is
+a large room 150 by an average of 25 feet, closely studded on three
+sides with large windows, which at this height throw upon the workmen
+an unobstructed flood of light, affording unusual advantages for the
+most thorough perfection in the finish of these goods. This room has
+capacity for one hundred finishers, allowing generous space for each,
+giving the convenience and comfort that but few factories afford their
+work-people.
+
+Adjoining is the department of bleaching and dyeing of straw plaits.
+This department is supplied with all the modern conveniences for
+securing the best results. Large wooden vats receive the straw plaits
+for a thorough cleansing before it is ready for manufacture. Bleaching
+tubs are near at hand, and large copper vats with all the required
+steam attachments for dyeing the many desired colors are here
+conveniently arranged.
+
+Ascending still another flight of stairs, the drying department is
+reached; this is the most spacious of all the many divisions of this
+establishment, for it has the sky for a ceiling and unlimited space,
+being virtually upon the roof. Here, ninety feet from the ground, is
+carried on one of the important divisions of the straw hat business.
+Two large rooms, really houses in themselves, are built upon this
+roof; these are the bleach houses, which are provided with artificial
+stone floors, rendering them thoroughly secure from the chance of
+ignited brimstone coming in contact with any part of the woodwork of
+the building. The remaining space upon the roof, equal in its extent
+to two good-sized city building lots, is secured around and over by a
+substantial wire netting. Within this enclosure the hats and straw
+braids coming from the bleaching and dyeing departments are dried.
+
+Ascent has been provided by stairways leading from the front part of
+this building; descent is also had by the rear, where broad stairs are
+partitioned off from the work-rooms, making a continuous spacious
+hallway from top to basement--a wise precaution, taken in consideration
+of the safety of the lives of those employed. This building, capable
+of accommodating six hundred work-people, is provided with the most
+convenient means of escape in case of fire by these broad stairways at
+each end of the building.
+
+As additional precaution for safety, the boilers supplying the
+required steam for the various departments, as well as for the motive
+power and heat, are in a building adjoining the main one, but
+separated by a fire-proof brick wall, and is only accessible by
+entrance from the outside; here are located two boilers, with a
+combined capacity of one hundred horse power. Above this boiler-room
+are two departments desirable to be kept apart from the others; these
+are the moulding and casting departments, in one of which is made the
+vast number of plaster shapes and blocks required in the factory, and
+some idea may be gained of the quantity when it is here mentioned that
+this department converts annually two hundred barrels of plaster of
+Paris into hat blocks.
+
+In the casting department are the necessary melting furnaces and other
+requisites for casting metal "dies," parts of machinery, and the
+various things needed in a large manufacturing business.
+
+Two large freight elevators, reaching from basement to roof, each of
+one ton capacity and propelled by steam power, are placed in the
+building. These elevators are furnished with automatic attachments by
+which as they ascend and descend each of the floors open and close,
+thus avoiding permanent openings, the frequent cause of accidents and
+assistance in the spread of a conflagration; an additional small
+elevator gives the convenience of transmitting light packages to and
+from every floor.
+
+Electric bells and tubes afford telephonic communication with every
+department. Steam heat radiates throughout the entire building, and a
+reel of hose attached to a water supply pipe is in readiness upon each
+floor in case of fire. The length of steam, gas, and water pipes
+throughout the building is estimated at five miles. The telegraph
+call-box signals for the messenger, and the telephone, aids in the
+execution of the advanced method of reducing the detailed requirements
+of a large business to a perfectly controllable system in its
+management.
+
+The engine supplying the motive power for this establishment is
+located in the basement. With exception of this room, partitioned off
+for the engine, the entire space of the basement of this large
+building is used for receiving and storing raw materials used in the
+manufacture of both straw and fur hats. Here the visitor's imagination
+may indulge in a wide scope, and his thoughts wander away to many
+foreign lands, for in this store-room are found the products of nearly
+every country in the world. China is seen in its strong and durable
+straw plaits; Japan, a new and formidable rival, shows its handsome
+goods; far-off India contributing its products, while England, France
+and Belgium send their choice plaits; Italy, Germany, and Spain are
+represented, as also South America, Canada, and our own United States,
+while the Hawaiian Islands make a pretence at competition with the
+world in the making of straw plaits, by submitting creditable
+specimens of their native products. Furs for making derby hats are
+also here, sent by Russia, France and Germany. In observing the firm's
+connection with countries quite encompassing the entire globe, some
+idea of the extent of this business may be realized.
+
+Thus a fair description is here given of a thoroughly equipped hat
+factory existing in Baltimore, in the year eighteen hundred and
+eighty-nine, and the reader may realize by comparison the advance of
+improvement from the last decade of the eighteenth century to the
+commencement of the last decade of the nineteenth century.
+
+THE END.
+
+
+The Hatter and Furrier
+
+PUBLISHED MONTHLY AT
+
+_7 Washington Place,--=NEW YORK=_,
+
+Is the LARGEST AND HANDSOMEST HAT AND FUR JOURNAL IN THE WORLD, and
+the only journal in its line that gives full and reliable information
+upon the trades represented by its title.
+
+Each number comprises Editorials upon the Trade Styles and Colors,
+Treasury Decisions, Reports of Meetings, Original Correspondence from
+Trade Centers, etc., etc.
+
+The FASHION PLATES issued each season are superior in design and
+execution to anything of the kind in this or any other country, and
+are alone worth the full price of subscription.
+
+The =FUR DEPARTMENT= contains special information and reports upon all
+matters connected with this important industry.
+
+All patents of interest to the Hat, Fur and allied Trades are
+published and illustrated as soon as issued.
+
+=ALL FOR $2.00 PER YEAR.=
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+_THE GALLISON & HOBRON COMPANY_,
+
+_7 Washington Place, Cor. Mercer St., =NEW YORK=_,
+
+ISSUE THE FOLLOWING PUBLICATIONS:
+
+    THE HATTER AND FURRIER, Monthly,                    $2.00 per Year
+    THE CLOTHIER AND FURNISHER, Monthly,                 2.00    "
+    THE CLOAK, SUIT AND LADIES' WEAR REVIEW, Monthly,    2.00    "
+    THE HATTER AND FURRIER DIRECTORY, Yearly, in June.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Advertising Cuts for Hatters, Furriers, Clothiers and Furnishers. Send
+for illustrated catalogues.
+
+
+Hatters' Letters
+
+_FOR INITIAL LETTERS IN HATS_.
+
+GUMMED AND EASILY ATTACHED.
+
+
+_BLOCK OR SCRIPT, IN GOLD OR SILVER._
+
+A complete alphabet of twenty-six dozen letters (one dozen of a kind
+in a package) mailed on receipt of P. O. Order or stamps, for $1.50.
+Any special letters at the rate of 75 cents per gross (no dozen
+packages broken). Neat and strong division boxes at 50 cents apiece.
+
+_GEO. FRANKE, 31 Hanover St.,_
+
+_Baltimore, Md._
+
+REFERENCE: DUN'S MERCANTILE AGENCY.
+
+
+CHAPIN HATS
+
+Are sold by a representative Broadway Hatter at a saving to the
+consumer of
+
+=ONE DOLLAR ON EACH HAT.=
+
+
+Guaranty with Derby Hats.
+
+PRICE FOUR DOLLARS.
+
+This hat is warranted equal in value to any sold at Five Dollars. It
+is absolutely correct New York style. The styles are issued
+semi-annually by the undersigned and his agents throughout the United
+States and Canada.
+
+Spring Shapes, first Wednesday in March. Fall Shapes, first Wednesday
+in September.
+
+CHAPIN.
+
+    1179 Broadway
+    and 12 Astor Place, New York.
+
+
+Guaranty with Silk Hats.
+
+PRICE SEVEN DOLLARS.
+
+This hat is warranted equal in value to any sold at Eight Dollars. It
+is absolutely correct New York style. The styles are issued
+semi-annually by the undersigned and his agents throughout the United
+States and Canada.
+
+Spring Shapes, first Wednesday in March. Fall Shapes, first Wednesday
+in September.
+
+CHAPIN.
+
+    1179 Broadway
+    and 12 Astor Place, New York.
+
+FIRST-CLASS HATTERS
+
+Wishing to secure the CHAPIN Agency for territory not already
+represented will please communicate with
+
+L. A. CHAPIN,
+
+=1179 BROADWAY, NEW YORK=.
+
+
+_ONLY SKILLED WORK-PEOPLE EMPLOYED._
+
+EDWARD A. SELLIEZ,
+
+MANUFACTURER OF
+
+=Fine Cloth Hats and Caps,=
+
+No. 17 North Fifth Street,
+
+Careful Attention Given to Details. =PHILADELPHIA, PA.=
+
+_=NEW YORK AGENT, W. P. MONTAGUE, 635 BROADWAY.=_
+
+
+YOU MAKE A SAFE HIT
+
+WHEN YOU CALL UPON
+
+=C. W. FINDLEY & CO.=
+
+_261 N. Third Street, Philadelphia, or Cor. Baltimore and Liberty
+Streets, Baltimore,_
+
+=FOR HATTERS' PRINTING, ADVERTISING NOVELTIES, RICKETT'S HAT TAGS, PURE
+GOLD INITIALS, BOX LABELS, SIZE MARKS, ADHESIVE LABELS, ETC.=
+
+
+WATERBURY BUTTON CO.
+
+No. 48 HOWARD STREET,
+
+NEW YORK.
+
+FACTORY, WATERBURY, CONN.
+
+MANUFACTURERS OF
+
+    MILITARY, AND ALL UNIFORM BUTTONS,
+
+    LADIES' FANCY METAL BUTTONS,
+
+    CLOTH, AND ALL KINDS OF COVERED BUTTONS,
+
+    VEGETABLE IVORY BUTTONS,
+
+    GILT, PLAIN AND FANCY BUTTONS.
+
+FANCY BRASS GOODS.
+
+TOILET PINS. NURSERY PINS.
+
+
+_WILLIAM P. MONTAGUE,_
+
+MANUFACTURER OF NOVELTIES IN
+
+BOYS' AND CHILDREN'S
+
+=HATS,=
+
+=635 Broadway, New York.=
+
+SELLING AGENT FOR
+
+=BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO.=
+
+BALTIMORE.
+
+=EDWARD A. SELLIEZ,=
+
+PHILADELPHIA.
+
+
+The Most Desirable
+
+=STRAW,=
+
+Silk, Cassimere, Fine Stiff and Self-Conforming
+
+=HATS=
+
+ARE THOSE MADE BY
+
+=BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO.=
+
+    _FACTORIES_:  { _German and Paca Sts., Baltimore._
+                  { _Paca and King Sts., Baltimore._
+
+    _SALESROOMS_: {  _German and Paca Sts., Baltimore._
+                  {  _635 Broadway, New York._
+
+The productions of BRIGHAM, HOPKINS & CO. rank as BEST in the UNITED
+STATES, which signifies the BEST in the WORLD.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Baltimore Hats, by William T. Brigham
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK BALTIMORE HATS ***
+
+***** This file should be named 39780.txt or 39780.zip *****
+This and all associated files of various formats will be found in:
+        http://www.gutenberg.org/3/9/7/8/39780/
+
+Produced by Bethanne M. Simms, Matthew Wheaton and the
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions
+will be renamed.
+
+Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no
+one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation
+(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without
+permission and without paying copyright royalties.  Special rules,
+set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to
+copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to
+protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark.  Project
+Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you
+charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission.  If you
+do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the
+rules is very easy.  You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose
+such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and
+research.  They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do
+practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks.  Redistribution is
+subject to the trademark license, especially commercial
+redistribution.
+
+
+
+*** START: FULL LICENSE ***
+
+THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE
+PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK
+
+To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free
+distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work
+(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg"), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License available with this file or online at
+  www.gutenberg.org/license.
+
+
+Section 1.  General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic works
+
+1.A.  By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to
+and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property
+(trademark/copyright) agreement.  If you do not agree to abide by all
+the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy
+all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession.
+If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the
+terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or
+entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8.
+
+1.B.  "Project Gutenberg" is a registered trademark.  It may only be
+used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who
+agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement.  There are a few
+things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works
+even without complying with the full terms of this agreement.  See
+paragraph 1.C below.  There are a lot of things you can do with Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement
+and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.  See paragraph 1.E below.
+
+1.C.  The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation ("the Foundation"
+or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic works.  Nearly all the individual works in the
+collection are in the public domain in the United States.  If an
+individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are
+located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from
+copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative
+works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg
+are removed.  Of course, we hope that you will support the Project
+Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by
+freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of
+this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with
+the work.  You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by
+keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project
+Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others.
+
+1.D.  The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern
+what you can do with this work.  Copyright laws in most countries are in
+a constant state of change.  If you are outside the United States, check
+the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement
+before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or
+creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project
+Gutenberg-tm work.  The Foundation makes no representations concerning
+the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United
+States.
+
+1.E.  Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg:
+
+1.E.1.  The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate
+access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently
+whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the
+phrase "Project Gutenberg" appears, or with which the phrase "Project
+Gutenberg" is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed,
+copied or distributed:
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+1.E.2.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived
+from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is
+posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied
+and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees
+or charges.  If you are redistributing or providing access to a work
+with the phrase "Project Gutenberg" associated with or appearing on the
+work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1
+through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the
+Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or
+1.E.9.
+
+1.E.3.  If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted
+with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution
+must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional
+terms imposed by the copyright holder.  Additional terms will be linked
+to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the
+permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work.
+
+1.E.4.  Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this
+work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm.
+
+1.E.5.  Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this
+electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without
+prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with
+active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm License.
+
+1.E.6.  You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary,
+compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any
+word processing or hypertext form.  However, if you provide access to or
+distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than
+"Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other format used in the official version
+posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org),
+you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a
+copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon
+request, of the work in its original "Plain Vanilla ASCII" or other
+form.  Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1.
+
+1.E.7.  Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying,
+performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works
+unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9.
+
+1.E.8.  You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing
+access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided
+that
+
+- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from
+     the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method
+     you already use to calculate your applicable taxes.  The fee is
+     owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he
+     has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the
+     Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.  Royalty payments
+     must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you
+     prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax
+     returns.  Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and
+     sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the
+     address specified in Section 4, "Information about donations to
+     the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation."
+
+- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies
+     you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he
+     does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm
+     License.  You must require such a user to return or
+     destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium
+     and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of
+     Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any
+     money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the
+     electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days
+     of receipt of the work.
+
+- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free
+     distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works.
+
+1.E.9.  If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm
+electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set
+forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from
+both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael
+Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark.  Contact the
+Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below.
+
+1.F.
+
+1.F.1.  Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable
+effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread
+public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm
+collection.  Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain
+"Defects," such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or
+corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual
+property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a
+computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by
+your equipment.
+
+1.F.2.  LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the "Right
+of Replacement or Refund" described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project
+Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project
+Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all
+liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal
+fees.  YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT
+LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE
+PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH 1.F.3.  YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE
+TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE
+LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR
+INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH
+DAMAGE.
+
+1.F.3.  LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a
+defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can
+receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a
+written explanation to the person you received the work from.  If you
+received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with
+your written explanation.  The person or entity that provided you with
+the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a
+refund.  If you received the work electronically, the person or entity
+providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to
+receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund.  If the second copy
+is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further
+opportunities to fix the problem.
+
+1.F.4.  Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth
+in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you 'AS-IS', WITH NO OTHER
+WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO
+WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE.
+
+1.F.5.  Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied
+warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages.
+If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the
+law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be
+interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by
+the applicable state law.  The invalidity or unenforceability of any
+provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions.
+
+1.F.6.  INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the
+trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone
+providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance
+with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production,
+promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works,
+harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees,
+that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do
+or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm
+work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any
+Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause.
+
+
+Section  2.  Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of
+electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers
+including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers.  It exists
+because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from
+people in all walks of life.
+
+Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the
+assistance they need are critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm's
+goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will
+remain freely available for generations to come.  In 2001, the Project
+Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure
+and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations.
+To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation
+and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4
+and the Foundation information page at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Section 3.  Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive
+Foundation
+
+The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit
+501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the
+state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal
+Revenue Service.  The Foundation's EIN or federal tax identification
+number is 64-6221541.  Contributions to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent
+permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state's laws.
+
+The Foundation's principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S.
+Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered
+throughout numerous locations.  Its business office is located at 809
+North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887.  Email
+contact links and up to date contact information can be found at the
+Foundation's web site and official page at www.gutenberg.org/contact
+
+For additional contact information:
+     Dr. Gregory B. Newby
+     Chief Executive and Director
+     gbnewby@pglaf.org
+
+Section 4.  Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg
+Literary Archive Foundation
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide
+spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of
+increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be
+freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest
+array of equipment including outdated equipment.  Many small donations
+($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt
+status with the IRS.
+
+The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating
+charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United
+States.  Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a
+considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up
+with these requirements.  We do not solicit donations in locations
+where we have not received written confirmation of compliance.  To
+SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any
+particular state visit www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we
+have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition
+against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who
+approach us with offers to donate.
+
+International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make
+any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from
+outside the United States.  U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff.
+
+Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation
+methods and addresses.  Donations are accepted in a number of other
+ways including checks, online payments and credit card donations.
+To donate, please visit:  www.gutenberg.org/donate
+
+
+Section 5.  General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic
+works.
+
+Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm
+concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared
+with anyone.  For forty years, he produced and distributed Project
+Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support.
+
+Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed
+editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S.
+unless a copyright notice is included.  Thus, we do not necessarily
+keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition.
+
+Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility:
+
+     www.gutenberg.org
+
+This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm,
+including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary
+Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to
+subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks.
diff --git a/39780.zip b/39780.zip
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..f850fe0
--- /dev/null
+++ b/39780.zip
diff --git a/LICENSE.txt b/LICENSE.txt
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..6312041
--- /dev/null
+++ b/LICENSE.txt
@@ -0,0 +1,11 @@
+This eBook, including all associated images, markup, improvements,
+metadata, and any other content or labor, has been confirmed to be
+in the PUBLIC DOMAIN IN THE UNITED STATES.
+
+Procedures for determining public domain status are described in
+the "Copyright How-To" at https://www.gutenberg.org.
+
+No investigation has been made concerning possible copyrights in
+jurisdictions other than the United States. Anyone seeking to utilize
+this eBook outside of the United States should confirm copyright
+status under the laws that apply to them.
diff --git a/README.md b/README.md
new file mode 100644
index 0000000..269e245
--- /dev/null
+++ b/README.md
@@ -0,0 +1,2 @@
+Project Gutenberg (https://www.gutenberg.org) public repository for
+eBook #39780 (https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/39780)