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diff --git a/40952-0.txt b/40952-0.txt index a69494a..2f28a1a 100644 --- a/40952-0.txt +++ b/40952-0.txt @@ -1,34 +1,4 @@ -The Project Gutenberg EBook of Mushroom Culture, by W. Robinson - -This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with -almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Mushroom Culture - Its Extension and Improvement - -Author: W. Robinson - -Release Date: October 6, 2012 [EBook #40952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: UTF-8 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUSHROOM CULTURE *** - - - - -Produced by Peter Vachuska, Rosanna Murphy, Dave Morgan -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net - - - - +*** START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 40952 *** Transcriber’s Note: Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Mushroom Culture - Its Extension and Improvement - -Author: W. Robinson - -Release Date: October 6, 2012 [EBook #40952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUSHROOM CULTURE *** - - - - -Produced by Peter Vachuska, Rosanna Murphy, Dave Morgan -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. -An upside-down V in the original text is denoted by [V]. -A list of amendments is at the end of the text. - - - - - The Country Series - OF - FARM, GARDEN, AND RURAL BOOKS FOR GENERAL USE, - - PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF - W. ROBINSON, F.L.S., - -_Founder of "The Garden," "Farm and Home," and "Gardening Illustrated;" -Horticultural Editor of "The Field;" Author of "The Parks and Gardens of -Paris," "Alpine Flowers for English Gardens," "The Wild Garden," "Hardy -Flowers," &c._ - - - - - MUSHROOM CULTURE - - ITS - - _EXTENSION AND IMPROVEMENT_ - - -[Illustration: MOUTH OF MUSHROOM-CAVE NEAR PARIS] - -[Illustration: BOTTOM OF SHAFT OF MUSHROOM-CAVE] - - - - - MUSHROOM CULTURE - - ITS - - _EXTENSION AND IMPROVEMENT_ - - - BY - W. ROBINSON, F.L.S. - - AUTHOR OF - _"The Parks and Gardens of Paris," "Alpine Flowers," &c._ - - - WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS - - - NEW YORK - GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS - NO. 9 LAFAYETTE PLACE - LONDON, GLASGOW AND MANCHESTER - - - - -PREFACE. - - -MY reasons for writing this book are: First, that Mushroom Culture is -but little practised in this country compared to the extent to which it -ought to be, considering the abundance of the necessary materials in all -parts of these islands, both in town and country, and the high -estimation in which the Mushroom is held. I now refer to ordinary -Mushroom Culture as practised in our best private gardens. I believe it -possible and desirable to extend this, the only phase of the Culture -that can be called popular, in a tenfold degree, and that every place in -which a gardener and horses are kept should be abundantly supplied with -Mushrooms throughout the greater part of the year. Secondly, that -although Mushroom Culture as usually practised is perfectly well known -to good cultivators, a simpler and fuller account of it than has yet -appeared in any English book on the subject is desirable for the -unpractised amateur and cultivator. Thirdly, that Mushroom Culture is at -present confined to a too narrow groove; and a belief that the general -gardening public should have a broad and clear idea of the several ways -in which they may procure abundance of excellent Mushrooms with very -trifling expense. Even many of the best private growers never think of -it except as illustrated on their comparatively small beds in small -houses. I believe that if the knowledge of how easily and in how many -ways they may be grown, apart from the usual mode, were sufficiently -spread, it would lead to the production of many times our present -supply. Fourthly, a desire to introduce to this and other countries the -system of Mushroom Culture on a very large scale carried on in caverns -beneath the environs of Paris, which caverns I visited in 1868. - -To these reasons I might add a wish to call attention to the waste of -money for Mushroom-spawn that now occurs in nearly every garden. There -is not the slightest necessity for this. In every garden where Mushrooms -are grown abundance of spawn may be made. Mr. W. P. AYRES writes lately -to tell me that in a great midland garden where the spawn bill used to -amount to 18_l._ or 19_l._ a year, by saving the spawn as the Parisian -growers do, all expense for this article is abolished. - -I do not attempt to praise or even duly weigh the merits of the -Mushroom--that could only be adequately done by the immortal -BRILLAT-SAVARIN. He, however, seems to have somewhat neglected this most -precious of _légumes_. None but his serious soul could have approached -the subject with the necessary solemnity. Nobody but he who first saw -the deep dangers of hurried, thoughtless, and irreverent feeding, could -have done justice to its exquisite flavour when in the best condition, -or could have explained how deliciously it combined the virtues of herb -and flesh, unspeakably superior to either. Let us, in passing, quote one -of his aphorisms, contributed to form the _base éternelle à la science_: -"_La découverte d'un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre -humain que la découverte d'une étoile!_" - -Now, I do not hesitate to say that the introduction of the Mushroom into -our domestic economy in as great a degree as we have it in our power to -produce it, would practically be the addition of a new agent in our -_cuisine_, second to none for its delicacy, and unsurpassed for utility. -It is true the Mushroom is plentiful in its season, but it is with us, -at all seasons when it is not to be gathered in the open air, a luxury -to numbers of owners of gardens who have means to grow it. As for the -much larger class who ought to be supplied from our markets, they seldom -see or taste a Mushroom except when these occur in profusion in our -fields, though every cart of stable-manure produced in this great -horse-keeping country may, on its way towards decomposition and -replenishing the earth, be made a nidus for furnishing many dishes of -them. - -The illustrations showing the cave-culture of mushrooms are from my -"Parks, Promenades, and Gardens of Paris." And the frontispiece is after -two large cuts of the mushroom caves of Paris, which appeared in the -_Illustrated London News_ some time after the appearance of my work. The -illustrations of edible fungi are by Mr. WORTHINGTON G. SMITH, who knows -and draws these interesting subjects so thoroughly well; and the other -figures are by Mr. HODGKIN. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - WHERE MUSHROOMS MAY BE GROWN 1 - - CHAPTER I. - - MUSHROOM CULTURE IN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE 2 - - CHAPTER II. - - THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS, ETC. 13 - - CHAPTER III. - - MUSHROOM-SPAWN 23 - - CHAPTER IV. - - SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT 33 - - CHAPTER V. - - CULTURE IN SHEDS, CELLARS, ARCHES, OUTHOUSES, AND ALL - ENCLOSED STRUCTURES OTHER THAN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE 43 - - CHAPTER VI. - - THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS, NEAR PARIS 57 - - CHAPTER VII. - - CULTURE ON PREPARED BEDS IN THE OPEN AIR IN GARDENS AND - FIELDS 77 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - CULTURE IN GARDENS, ETC., WITH OTHER CROPS IN THE OPEN AIR 84 - - CHAPTER IX. - - MUSHROOM CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC. 88 - - CHAPTER X. - - THE COMMON MUSHROOMS 95 - - CHAPTER XI. - - MODES OF COOKING THE COMMON MUSHROOMS 102 - - CHAPTER XII. - - SOME OF THE MOST COMMON AND USEFUL EDIBLE FUNGI 108 - - - - -MUSHROOM CULTURE. - - - - -WHERE MUSHROOMS MAY BE GROWN. - - -THE places in which mushrooms can be grown may be roughly grouped as -follows:--1. In the mushroom-house proper. 2. In sheds, cellars, -out-houses, stables, railway-arches, &c. 3. In deep caves, like those -near Paris, described further on. 4. In the open air, in gardens or -fields, on prepared beds. 5. In gardens, among various crops, without -any preparation beyond inserting the spawn. 6. In pastures where the -mushroom is not already established. - -To these I might add another group, illustrated by the case of a Belgian -cook who grew a dish of mushrooms in a pair of old wooden shoes; but -practically we can treat of nearly every possible mode of growing the -mushroom under the above headings. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -MUSHROOM CULTURE IN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 1. Mushroom-house at back of hothouses.] - -CULTURE in the mushroom-house being the most practised, and, on the -whole, the most important phase of the subject, we will first treat of -it. And first of the mushroom-house itself. Its construction is very -simple: the conditions to be obtained are equable temperature, secured -by thick or hollow walls and by a double roof. Figure 1 shows a house -designed for me by Mr. Ormson, the well-known horticultural builder. - -It is situated at the back of the hothouses, where a flow and return -pipe can be run through for artificial heat. The shelves for making the -beds upon are of slate 1½ in. thick, or of stone 2½ in. thick, -built into the walls, and into brick piers built in cement. Upright -slates, to slide in grooves, are placed along the front of the shelves -to keep the beds in. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2. Ground-plan of preceding.] - -The floor may be of paving tiles, or bricks, laid on concrete: a -skylight or two may be fixed in the roof, for the purpose of admitting a -little light, and air when necessary. The engraving (fig. 2), shows a -house of this description, 12 feet wide by 20 feet long, inside measure, -but, of course, the length may be extended as circumstances may -require. - -As it is of importance in mushroom-growing that the air of the house -should be kept moderately moist, the underside of a slate or tile roof -should be lathed and plastered. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3. View of unheated mushroom-house.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4. Section of preceding figure.] - -Figure 3 represents a mushroom-house suitable for people of small means, -or those who cannot adopt plan No. 1. It is designed with a view to -growing mushrooms during the greater part of the year, without the aid -of artificial heat. To this end it is constructed in such a way as not -to be affected by changes of the external temperature, as will be seen -by the engraving. The walls are hollow, and banked round with the soil -excavated from the interior. The roof is thatched with reeds, and the -ends stud-work, lined inside with boards, and outside with split larch -poles: the cavity to be filled with sawdust or cut straw; a small -diamond-shaped ventilator, hung on pivots, to be fixed in each end. The -floor may be of concrete, or burnt clay well rammed; and the beds are -retained in their place by boards nailed to good oak posts. Care should -be taken to put in efficient drains, so that no stagnant damp may exist -about the building. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5. Section of mushroom-house at Frogmore.] - -Though the preceding cuts show how we may best attain our object, a few -more illustrations of mushroom-houses are desirable here. Figures 5 and -6 exhibit the plan of the mushroom-houses at Frogmore, obligingly -communicated by Mr. Rose. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6. Ground-plan of mushroom-house at Frogmore.] - -It need hardly be said that in such large mushroom-houses rhubarb and -sea-kale may be easily forced, and barbe de capucin, endive, &c. -blanched. - -A small hot-water apparatus, with a 3-inch flow and return pipe, affords -the best means of heating a mushroom-house which is not so situated that -it may be heated from the boilers of adjacent hothouses. The best -position for the mushroom-house is against a north wall. The usual -precautions for guarding against damp walls and floor should be adopted -in the case of the mushroom-house, and the walls should be hollow. - -Forsyth's mushroom-house is described by the designer in Loudon's -_Gardener's Magazine_. Fig. 7 is a transverse section, showing the -arches under and over the beds, the thoroughfare _a_ is the middle, and -the position of the hot-water pipes, _c_; _b_ is an open shed and -general workshop, the receptacle of everything requiring protection, and -too clumsy to be otherwise housed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7. Mushroom-house under shed.] - -A shed of this description is an indispensable adjunct to every -well-ordered garden, and in the present case it serves as a roof to the -mushroom-house. In the centre of each vault, shown in fig. 7, a circular -ventilator, _d_, 9 in. in diameter, should be made, having a stone and -cast-iron stopper, with a folding ring. The whole roof of the -mushroom-house is covered over with pavement, which at the same time -forms the floor of the shed above. Mr. Forsyth objects to cast-iron -shelves "on account of the rust, and to slate shelves, as being cold and -damp, and therefore not suitable to the purpose;" but he knows of no -objection to shelves built of bricks and mortar, kerbed with hewn stone -3 in. wide, and clamped together with lead. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8. Mushroom-house at Stoke Place.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -The annexed diagrams (figs. 8 and 9) exhibit the mushroom-houses used at -Stoke Place, both for summer and winter use, as described by Macintosh -in the "Book of the Garden." "Of course the former is not heated; the -latter is, by 4-inch hot-water pipes, which are brought from a boiler -constructed to heat at the same time a range of pits for pines, melons, -&c., 89 feet long and 7 feet wide. The shelves are close-bottomed to -prevent the beds from drying too rapidly, and to require less watering, -which Mr. Patrick thinks a very important precaution in mushroom -culture. Ventilation is effected by a slide in the door, and a wooden -trunk up through the arch and roof, with a slide in it also. We do not -exactly see the motive of Mr. Patrick, whom we have long known and -esteemed as one of the best gardeners in England, in adopting the span -roof over this house, as, from its situation behind the garden wall, a -lean-to roof would have been cheaper and carried off the rain-water -better. It is rather a novel, but still a good plan, to have the inner -roof constructed of a brick arch, as it will of course save the outer -one from decay, to which all mushroom-house roofs are liable more than -any other kind of garden building. This house struck us at first sight -as very complete, excepting in breadth. We should increase it to 9 -feet--that is, 3 feet for the breadth of the beds on each side, and the -same for the footpath, which at present is inconveniently narrow." - -[Illustration: Fig. 10. Russian mushroom-house.] - -The Russian mushroom-house (fig. 10) is thus described by Mr. Oldacre, -in the _Horticultural Society's Transactions_, vol. ii. first series. -"The outside walls should be 8½ feet high for four heights of beds, -and 6½ for three heights, and 10 feet wide inside the walls. This is -the most convenient width, as it admits of shelves 3½ feet wide on -each side, and affords a space through the middle of the house 3 feet -wide, for a double flue and a walk upon it." Hot-water pipes were not in -use when this house was erected. "The walls should be 9 inches thick, -and the length of the house as may be judged necessary. When the outside -of the house is built, place a ceiling over it (as high as the top of -the walls) of boards 1 inch thick, and plaster it on the upper side with -road sand well wrought together, 1 inch thick, (this will be found -superior to lime), leaving square trunks, _f_, in the ceiling 9 inches -in width, up the middle of the house, at 6 feet distance from each -other, with slides, _s_, under them, to admit and take off air when -necessary. This being done, erect two single-brick walls, _v v_, each -five bricks high, at the distance of 3½ feet from the outside walls, -to hold up the sides of the lower beds, _a a_, and form one side of the -air-flue, _t u t u_, leaving 3 feet up the middle, _t x t_, of the house -for the floor. Upon these walls, _v v_, lay planks, _t u_, 4½ inches -wide and 3 inches thick, in which to mortise the standards, _t k_, which -support the shelves. These standards should be 3½ inches square, and -placed 4 feet 6 inches asunder, and fastened at the top to the ceiling -joists. When the standards are set up, fix the cross-bearers, _i n i n_, -that are to support the shelves, _o o_, mortising one end of each into -the standards, _n_, the other into the walls, _i_. The first set of -bearers should be 2 feet from the floor, and each succeeding set 2 feet -from that below it. Having thus fixed the uprights, _t k_, and bearers, -_i n_, at such a height as the building will admit, proceed to form the -shelves, _o o_, with boards 1½ inches thick, observing to place a -board, _d d_, 8 inches broad and 1 inch thick, in the front of each -shelf, to support the front of the beds. Fasten this board on the -outside standards, that the width of the beds may not be diminished. The -shelves being completed, the next thing to be done is the construction -of the flue (_p_ in section), which should commence at the end of the -house next to the door, run parallel to the shelves all the length of -the house, and return back to the fireplace, where the chimney should be -built; the sides of the flue inside to be of the height of four bricks -laid flatways, and 6 inches wide, which will make the width of the flues -15 inches from outside to outside, and leave a cavity, _t u_, on each -side betwixt the flue and the walls that are under the shelves, and one, -_x y_, up the middle, betwixt the flues, 2 inches wide, to admit the -heat into the house from the sides of the flues." The introduction of -this form of house by Mr. Oldacre has led to much improvement in our -mushroom culture. The first house of this kind erected in England, was -built at Shipley, near Derby, in the garden of E. M. Mundy, Esq., by the -father of Mr. W. P. Ayres, whose name will be found frequently mentioned -in this work. There brick arches were formed for the shelves, and though -built more than half a century ago, the house is still in good -condition. - -Although slate is generally used for the shelves, the adoption of -cast-iron gratings for this purpose is well worth a trial, as by this -means we may be enabled to cut mushrooms from the under as well as the -upper side of the bed. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS, ETC. - - -BEFORE we deal with the various ways of growing the mushroom, we will -speak of the preparation of the material. As stable manure not only -furnishes the nutriment, but forms the very soil in which mushrooms are -produced artificially, and also supplies the heat which enables us to -grow them to perfection at all seasons, by far the most important point -connected with their culture is the management of this. It is very -simple, but frequently, even by excellent gardeners, considered to -require much more trouble and nicety than is really necessary. For -example, it is quite common in good gardens to see the droppings -collected carefully in some shed, or in the mushroom-house, and turned -over almost as tenderly and carefully as the contents of the fruit-room. -Good mushrooms are well worth this trouble; but, as it is quite -unnecessary, it should not be done except in special cases. - -To show the diversity of opinion among excellent mushroom-growers as to -the preparation of the manure, I will quote a few of our most -trustworthy authorities on the subject. Mr. W. Early, in "How to Grow -Mushrooms," lays great stress on the importance of gathering the -droppings in a dry state. "Every advantage should be taken of -opportunities of securing and placing them in any open shed, or other -similar position, where they can be effectually sheltered from rains. In -such a place, whilst the process of collecting is going on, every -portion should be spread loosely over the floor, in moderate sized -ridges, or in any other manner that will allow the air to get amongst it -to assist in drying. It should also be tossed over or turned, and -lightened up daily for the same purpose, until a sufficiency is gathered -together for immediate use." - -This may be taken as a sample of the practice very extensively followed -in this country. Happily, we have excellent mushroom growers who succeed -without all this trouble, as the following remarks of Mr. J. Barnes will -show:--"For the last thirty years I have made my beds entirely on the -floor in sheds, wheeling in the stable dung as it is brought fresh from -the stable, adding a fourth, or a little more than a fourth, of good -friable loam, mixing both well together, pressing firmly down, and -letting it remain about a week or so untouched. At the end of that time -we turn it over, and if we consider it in too strong a state of -fermentation we add a little more soil, and then tread down firmly. -Very soon the bed is ready to be spawned, and encased in a couple of -inches of soil; and in this way we get the finest crops of mushrooms, -the beds remaining a long time in bearing. After the beds have been some -time, say from six to twelve weeks, in bearing, and begin to get dry, -and cease to bear well, we water them thoroughly with very clear liquid -manure, made from sheep or deer or cow manure, which seems to start them -again into bearing, and then we manage to keep some of the beds in -bearing for many months at a time." In the _Field_, Dec. 22, 1868, I -stated that the manure for the mushroom-beds in the Royal Gardens, -Frogmore, was not prepared in any elaborate way, but simply taken from a -great heap fermenting in the yard, any parts of it that had become white -from heat being moistened with water, and the whole being mixed with -about a fourth part of loam. Mr. Cuthill, an authority on mushroom -culture, tells us how the London market gardeners manage with their -manure. As the material is brought home from the London stables, the -short part is taken out of it, and the long litter is kept for the -purpose of covering, as well as for forming the interior of ridges; for -all mushroom-beds out of doors are made into ridges. The manure is not -allowed to heat before it is put into the beds, if that can be -prevented; for previously heated material does not produce such fine -mushrooms. The fresher the horse-dung is, the longer the crop will last -and every gardener who makes up beds with unheated droppings knows how -superior they are to fermented manure. - -In his own practice Mr. C. depended a good deal on heavy tramping to -"keep down fermentation" when droppings were used in a fresh state. The -French, who are great mushroom growers, allow the manure to heat first, -but treat it very simply. They prepare it in the open air, first -removing any pieces of wood or other extraneous matter that may have -been mixed with it, and then place it long and short in beds two feet -thick, or a little more, pressing it with the fork. When this is done, -the mass or bed is well stamped, then thoroughly watered, and finally -again pressed down by stamping. It is left in this state for eight or -ten days, by which time it has begun to ferment, after which the bed -ought to be well turned over and re-made on the same place, care being -taken to place the manure that was near the sides at first towards the -centre in the turning and re-making. The mass is now left for another -ten days or so, at the end of which time the manure is about in proper -condition for making the beds, either in the open air or in the caves. -Sometimes it receives three turnings over, especially when the manure is -long, and it occupies altogether about six weeks in preparation. As the -wide heaps are turned over by the men, a water-cart remains alongside, -and any portions of the mass that are dry and white from heat are -moistened with water from a rose watering pot. This preparation shortens -and mollifies the longer material considerably, mixes the mass well, and -it is transferred to the caves in a slightly decomposed, well mixed, and -moist, but not wet, condition. The French do not actually hammer or -desperately tramp down the beds, as nearly all our writers on mushroom -culture recommend, but press it pretty firmly; and I have seen as good -crops on their light spongy beds as ever I have on those so firmly -tramped down. I might give other striking instances of the diversity of -opinion on this subject, but it is needless to multiply them. - -My conclusions respecting the preparation of the manure for mushrooms -are as follows:--1. That very careful preparation and frequent turning -over of the manure undercover are not necessary to success, and that it -is quite needless to prepare the manure under cover, except when it is -gathered in a very small quantity, so that a heavy rain or snow would -saturate it. Where, however, the culture is pursued on a very small -scale, and, it may be, only one bed made, it is best to keep it in a -covered shed. 2. That carefully picked droppings are not essential, -though they may be more convenient. Excellent crops are gathered from -beds made with ordinary stable manure, droppings and long materials -mixed as they come; but when the manure is used as it comes from the -stable, it should be allowed to ferment before being used. 3. That the -best way of preparing manure for the general culture of mushrooms -indoors, is to gather it in some firm spot, and allow it to lose its -fierce heat. As it is usually gathered in an irregular way, precise -directions as to turning over cannot well be given; but I am convinced -that one turning will suffice when it has arrived at a strong heat, and -then it should be thrown together for a week or so, when, in being -disturbed and removed to make the bed or beds, its strong heat will be -sufficiently subdued. Where large quantities of stable manure are in a -fermenting state, there should be little difficulty in selecting -material to form a bed at any time. Should it have spent its heat -overmuch, it would be easy to revive it with some fresh droppings. 4. -That stable manure may be used when fresh, but it should be always mixed -with more than a fourth of good loamy soil. If this be kept under cover, -or stacked so that it may be had in a rather dry condition, so much the -better, especially if the fresh manure, &c., should be over moist. Beds -thus made are most suited for cool sheds and the open gardens. 5. That a -portion, say nearly one-fifth to one-third, of good and rather dry loam -may always be advantageously mixed with the stable manure; the fresher -the materials, the more loam should be used. In all cases it helps to -solidify the bed, and it is probable that the addition of the loam adds -to the fertility and duration of the bed. 6. That a thickness of from -one foot to fifteen inches for the beds in an artificially heated house -is quite sufficient. Eighteen inches will not be too much for beds made -in sheds, though I have seen excellent crops on beds only a foot thick, -in common sheds with leaky sides. All beds made indoors should be flat -and firmly beaten down, though the absence of firmness is not, as some -think, sufficient to account for want of success. - -I will now quote a few words from Mr. Ayres on other materials for -forming mushroom-beds than stable manure. He has given this, like almost -every important subject in the range of horticulture, some attention. -First among these may be mentioned sawdust which has been used for -bedding horses or for riding-school tracks. Such a substance, thoroughly -impregnated with urine and mixed with horse-droppings, forms an -excellent material for mushroom-beds, especially if mixed with -one-fourth of good fibrous loam. Such materials mixed and fermented -together, and thrown into a bed a foot or eighteen inches in thickness, -according to the temperature of the shed in which the bed is made, will -be found to form capital material for growing this esculent, especially -as it retains the heat for a long time. The worst of it is that the -material is almost valueless after it has served the first purpose; and -used as dung upon light land is rather injurious than otherwise. Then -you may use leaves and loam, in the proportion of one part of the -latter, in a turfy state, to four or five of fermenting leaves. These -may be recently gathered from the trees, and should be allowed to attain -a brisk heat before the loam is added, and then, after sweating for a -week or ten days, may be turned, mixing the materials intimately -together, and then the mass may be formed into a bed. A mushroom-bed of -this kind should not be less than fifteen inches in thickness when -thoroughly consolidated; and when so managed it will grow mushrooms just -as well as dung. The sweepings of our streets and cattle markets, -especially those parts that are paved and much frequented by horses--as, -for example, cabstands, &c.--if collected when dry, and fermented a -little, yield capital material for beds. Here from the cattle market we -have the dung of horses, sheep, and cows mixed together in a finely -divided state, the heating of which is gentle and regular. Material of -this kind procured on dry days, thrown together to ferment once or -twice, and then made into well-consolidated beds, will produce mushrooms -of the finest quality, and continue in bearing a very long time. It is -of the first importance that this material be collected in a dry state, -as of course the slush of the streets would not do at all. Equal -proportions of street sweepings and fresh leaves, properly fermented and -mixed with loam, would perhaps make as good material for growing -mushrooms as need be obtained. Of course the sweepings from those parts -of the town most frequented by horses will be the best for the purpose I -am writing about. - -The idea of mushrooms ceasing to be prolific from the exhaustion of the -active manure in the bed, I have mooted before. Lately several -experiments have been tried which convince me that by taking three -portions of recently-gathered leaves to one of turfy loam, and working -them well together until the mass attains the desired temperature, -sprinkling it, as the work of turning proceeds, with liquid direct from -the stables, and forming this into a bed treated in the usual manner, it -will give just as good mushrooms as the best horse manure in the world. -It is the ammonia that is wanted for this crop, with a gentle heat. -Secure these two things, and, with ordinary care, success is certain. - -Before making the beds, while the material is in preparation, all -particles of old wood, twigs, &c., that are found in the manure should -be removed, as indeed should any extraneous matters likely to prove -offensive or useless. - -The best time for making mushroom-beds, where they are not regularly -made in succession throughout the autumn and winter months, as they -ought to be where there is abundance of material and a good -mushroom-house, is in August and September, as in the early autumn -months the natural heat is sufficient to cause the spawn to germinate -freely, and beds made then ought to bear freely before and up to -Christmas, and during autumn. - -When making the bed, the chief object to bear in mind is the equal -placing of the material. It should be well mixed and regularly and -firmly placed so that the whole may be of a similar texture. Some -heavily tramp and pound their beds to secure firmness; moderately done -this is beneficial; thoroughly equable pressure with the fork, when the -fork can be used, will with the pressure of firm earthing be sufficient; -when beds are made on elevated benches in boxes, and in all positions -where but a slight body of material is used, and where firmness cannot -result from the general pressure of the mass, some kind of pressure with -a wooden mallet or the like must be employed. - -The beds once made, we next arrive at the spawning, and will first -inquire, What is spawn? - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -MUSHROOM-SPAWN. - - -THE first thing we have to determine is, What is spawn? Generally, the -spawn, or what in scientific language is called the _mycelium_, is -supposed to be analogous to seed, while it really is what may be termed -the vegetation of the plant, or something analogous to roots, stems, and -leaves of ordinary plants, the visible part or stem, head and gills, of -the mushroom being, in fact, the fructification, though in such an -apparent preponderance to the other parts. A knowledge of the anatomy -and life-history of the mushroom is not necessary to the cultivator, and -is not familiar even to those who make of mushrooms a study. We know -that the gills are simply surfaces on which germs or spores are -produced. The membrane that covers the spore plates of a single mushroom -would cover a large space if spread out, and the spores are counted by -myriads. We can see them clearly enough under the microscope--can see in -what manner they are borne on and fixed to the gills; but of the history -of their lives, from the time they fall from the surfaces on which they -were born, till the "young mushroom" or inflorescence is vigorously -pushing up from the mass of delicate vegetation which they have given -rise to in earth or decaying manure, we know nothing. However, the -preparation of the spawn, and the subsequent management of it in the -mushroom-bed, are the matters which really concern us. - -How is spawn obtained in the first instance? It is found in a natural -state in half-decomposed manure-heaps, in places where horse-droppings -have accumulated and been kept dry, in riding-schools, sheds to which -horses have long had access, in "mill tracks" under cover, in pastures, -in partially decayed hotbeds, &c., and rarely or never in very moist or -saturated materials. This spawn, sometimes termed "natural" in this -country, and called by the French "virgin spawn," is the best that can -be obtained, and should be used in preference wherever it can be found. -To use it, all that has to be done is to divide the material permeated -by the white spawn into pieces a few inches square, and say an inch or -more thick. They will of course break up irregularly, but all should be -used, whether of the size of a bean, or nearly that of the open hand. -Then they are inserted into the surface of the mushroom-beds in the -ordinary way. - -In nearly every country place, and in numerous suburban ones, in fact, -in most places where horses are kept, opportunities of finding this -spawn occur. Its white, filamentous, and downy threads have the odour -of mushrooms, and the spawn is, therefore, very easily recognised. It -should be generally known that it need not be used when found, but may -be dried, and kept for use in a dry place for years, and has been known -to keep as long as fourteen years. It must not be supposed that it is -only the hard bricks described further on that keep thus. The French -spawn is in much looser and lighter material than that in which we -usually find _mycelium_ in a natural state, and it keeps quite as long -as ours. To preserve spawn found in a natural state, nothing more is -required than to take up carefully the parts of the manure in which it -is found, not breaking them up more than may be necessary, and placing -both large and small pieces loosely in rough shallow hampers. These -should be placed in some dry airy loft or shed till thoroughly dry, and -afterwards kept in some perfectly dry place, packed in rough boxes till -wanted for use. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11. Brick mushroom-spawn.] - -But inasmuch as in this country, at present, but little mushroom-spawn -is required in any one place, the rule is to obtain artificial spawn in -the form of hard bricks. This spawn is made from horse-droppings and -some cowdung and road scrapings beaten up into a mortar-like consistency -in a shed, and then formed into bricks, slightly differing in shape with -different makers, but usually thinner and wider than common building -bricks. Various recipes are given for mixing the materials for the -bricks, and among them the following are about the best:--1. -Horse-droppings the chief part, cowdung a fourth, and the remainder -loam. 2. Fresh horse-droppings mixed with short litter the greater part, -cowdung one third, and the rest mould or loam. 3. Horsedung, cowdung, -and loam in equal parts. These bricks are placed in some dry, airy -place, and when half dry, a little bit of spawn about as big as a hazel -nut, is placed in the centre of each; or sometimes, when the bricks are -as wide as long, a particle is put near each corner, just inserted below -the surface, and plastered over with the composition of which the bricks -are made. When the bricks are nearly dry, they are placed on a hotbed -about a foot thick, in a shed or dry place. On this the bricks are -piled, or placed rather openly and loosely, and covered over with -litter, so that the heat may circulate equably amongst them. The -temperature should not rise more than a degree or two above 60 degrees; -if it does, it may easily be modified by reducing or removing the -covering of litter. The makers frequently examine the bricks during the -process, and when the spawn has been found to spread throughout a brick -like a fine white mould, it is removed, and allowed to dry for future -use in a dark, dry place. If allowed to go further than the fine white -mould stage, and form threads and tubercles in the bricks, it has then -attained to a higher degree of development than is consistent with -preserving its vegetative powers, and therefore it should be removed -from the bed in the fine mould stage. This is the kind of mushroom spawn -mostly in use in our gardens, and it is usually very hard in texture. - -[Illustration: Fig. 12. Mill-track mushroom-spawn.] - -There is a kind of spawn used in some gardens called mill-track -mushroom-spawn, which is made in a more simple manner than the -preceding. It would seem to be simply spawn that has spread through the -thoroughly amalgamated droppings of a mill-track. The material is -rather soft and free in texture, is usually sold in large and somewhat -irregular lumps, and is much used by some cultivators. - -[Illustration: Fig. 13. Parisian mushroom-spawn.] - -Finally, we have the French mushroom-spawn, which differs from our own -in not being in bricks or solid lumps, but in rather light masses of -scarcely half decomposed, comparatively loose and dry litter. This spawn -is obtained by preparing a little bed as if for mushrooms in the -ordinary way, and spawning it with morsels of virgin spawn, if that is -obtainable; and then when the spawn has spread through it, the bed is -broken up and used for spawning beds in the caves, or dried and -preserved for sale. It is sold in small boxes, and is fit for insertion -when pulled in rather thin pieces, about half the size of the open hand; -but in separating it, it divides into many pieces, of all sizes, every -particle of which should be used. The small particles should be strewn -broadcast over the bed after the larger pieces have been inserted. This -applies to the other kinds. In consequence of the open porous nature of -the French mushroom-spawn, it is likely to be immediately affected by -the heat and moisture of the genially warm manure forming the -mushroom-bed, and on that account alone presents some advantages. It has -recently been introduced for the first time, and probably will soon be -tested by many growers. - -Spawn, in the common sense of the word, may be dispensed with by well -amalgamating manure, loam, and old mushroom-beds, or leaf-mould -containing traces of spawn, and these formed into beds about a foot -thick in the mushroom-house, and covered with earth, produce without any -further spawning; but the plan is not so simple or advantageous as that -more commonly pursued. - -There is no necessity for purchasing artificial spawn at all where -mushrooms are regularly grown. Nor is there in any case except at the -commencement, or to guard against one's own spawn proving bad. To secure -good spawn, we have only to do as the French growers do: take a portion -of a bed where it is thoroughly permeated by the spawn and before it -begins to bear, and preserve it for future use. - -Of the efficacy of this sort of spawn, if any proof were needed in -addition to the fine crops the Parisian growers gather, it will be found -in the following statement from Mr. Ayres:-- - -"A short time back, attention was directed to the superior quality of -French mushroom-spawn, and as a natural consequence several London -seedsmen imported it for sale. Some months back I obtained possession of -a stable, and, wishing to grow mushrooms in it, procured a few tons of -horse manure, just as it came from the dung-pit of the hotel stables. It -was very wet, and consequently when thrown together it heated violently. -However, by frequent turning for a week or ten days this tendency was -reduced, and then five beds were formed of it, adding one-fourth of -perfectly dry soil from a cucumber-house. I say perfectly dry, because -the soil had lain in the house for fifteen or eighteen months without -receiving a drop of water, and therefore may almost be considered as -thoroughly dry. Intimately mixed with the fermenting dung, it had the -tendency that I desired--viz., subdued the excessive moisture, and, -after the bed had been made up a week, brought it to the temperature -necessary to receive the spawn. - -"Having great faith in the good qualities of fresh loam from an old -pasture for the production of mushrooms of superior quality, I had a -quantity dried and warmed. I had a coat of this three inches thick laid -over each bed, and then forked carefully in, taking care to mix the soil -and dung as intimately as possible. Re-formed and left for a few days -the beds attained the necessary warmth; then they were made quite firm, -and were ready for spawning. - -"For this purpose I had procured two boxes of the French spawn from -Messrs. Barr and Sugden, of Covent Garden. It was light, loose, flaky, -chaffy stuff, and so dry that I had some fear whether its vegetating -power had not been dried out of it. But the spawn had been bought for -experiment, and therefore the experiment must be carried out. - -"Raking about two inches of the material from the surface of each bed, -pieces of the flaky spawn were laid down, at about ten inches or a foot -apart, all over the beds; the fine portions of the spawn were then -scattered over the beds, patted down firmly with the back of a spade, -and then the surface material was returned, and the whole made as firm -as possible. In passing, it may not be out of place to remark that -spawning in this manner must be guided, or rather governed, by the state -of the material of the bed. If it is not sufficiently cooled, it will be -safer to make holes in the usual manner for the spawn; but if in a fit -state, then I think the broadcast spawning and earthing, as before -described, is the best plan. The disturbed portion of the beds having -regained its heat, and there being no fear of its _over_heating, the -beds were immediately earthed two inches thick with fresh loam, beaten -quite firm, and then covered with a thin layer of dry hay. - -"Not liking to entrust my chance of mushrooms entirely to the new -material, the French spawn, two beds were spawned at the same time and -in the same manner with native spawn. Owing to the large size of the -stable, and the unusually cold, piercing weather at the end of the year -(1869), the beds lost so much heat that I had some misgivings whether -they would not prove a failure; but finding, subsequently, that the -spawn was working, I gave each bed (the surface being rather dry) a good -syringing with water at the temperature of 80 deg., covered it with -clean dry mats, and then returned the hay. The beds are now a sheet of -the 'pearl of the fields,' some of the patches as large as a -cheese-plate, and the whole in most promising condition--so promising -that, with proper attention, I have no doubt they will yield a good -supply of mushrooms for many months. To secure this continuous bearing, -farmyard manure-water and salt, at proper times, should not be spared; -while, as soon as the flush of the first crop is over, the beds may -receive a thorough soaking of manure-water at a temperature of not less -than 80 deg., be re-earthed with fresh soil, and covered down with mats -and hay. In this manner we always get a second crop little inferior to -the first one, and sometimes much superior." - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT. - - -_Heat and Protection._ - -THE temperature of the material of the beds should never, at spawning -time, exceed 80 degrees Fahr.--about 70 is the most suitable regular -temperature; and that of the mushroom-house should range between 50 and -60 degrees--not lower than 50. Assuming the materials to have been -turned once after having heated, and again disturbed previous to being -made into beds, they ought to be in a condition for spawning from ten to -twelve days after being put together. It need hardly be said that this -regularity of temperature can only be secured in properly-formed -mushroom-houses. Where mushrooms are grown in these, with double -ceilings and close-fitting shutters and doors, almost impervious to -external influences, and where fresh beds are made from time to time, -little or no artificial heat from pipes is required, though it is as -well to have some at command in the case of unusually severe weather, or -a break in the succession of beds, which would cause a deficiency of -heat from fermenting materials. A covering of hay or dry litter is -necessary for beds formed in the open air, and also for beds made in -cool, half-open sheds; but not for those in regularly heated -mushroom-houses or caves, in which there is a still, steady temperature. -It should be about a foot thick, and should be immediately removed when -it becomes wet or mouldy. This covering should be applied whenever the -temperature of the bed begins to fall. It should not be used in any case -where the temperature will permit of dispensing with it, as it is -troublesome, and sometimes encourages insects. The heat of a bed may be -reduced by opening holes six or eight inches deep with a thick pointed -dibber, here and there, but it is only in exceptional cases that this is -advisable, and it is desirable to husband all the ammonia and heat of -the bed. The earthing over and firming of a bed has a tendency to subdue -the heat in it. Where large sloping beds, say three feet deep at back, -are made against the wall, I have seen [V]-shaped crates put beneath -them at six feet apart, so as to permit of heating them by fresh -supplies of manure. It is, however, a plan possessing little claim to -general use. It is best not to depend on the hand, as is commonly done, -for ascertaining the heat of the beds. Thermometers fixed on sticks of -convenient size, to thrust in the beds, are sold, and remove all excuse -for vagueness in this matter. Coverings of litter are sometimes useful -in "drawing-up the heat" in a bed that has become somewhat chilled. - - -_Spawning._ - -This is the phase of the culture which requires most attention, as to -get the spawn to run regularly through the bed is to be nearly certain -of securing a good crop. In this respect there do not seem to be so many -differences of opinion among mushroom growers. Some, indeed, spawn -immediately after the bed is made up; but, except where the materials -are such as will not heat to more than 80 degrees, this is uncertain, or -in other words bad, practice. - -The important thing should be to ascertain if the spawn spreads through -the bed properly. The usual practice is to earth up the bed immediately -or very soon after it is spawned, and not a few take no further notice -of the bed or beds till the time arrives when the mushrooms ought to -appear. A better plan is not to finally earth the bed until the spawn is -seen beginning to spread its white filaments through the mass; and -should it fail to begin to do this in eight or ten days after -spawning--the conditions being favourable--it is then better to insert -fresh spawn or to re-make the bed, adding fresh materials if it be found -to fail from being too cold. If people generally were to see whether the -spawn had "taken" freely, instead of waiting for many weeks, not knowing -whether it had or not, there would be fewer disappointments in mushroom -culture. - -The ordinary spawn bricks should be broken into pieces, say from about -the size of walnuts to that of eggs; they do not break up into regular -portions. Spawn in the more natural form in which we take it from the -old beds, and in which it is used by the French, is ready to be inserted -into the bed without any further manipulation. I believe this kind of -spawn spreads more rapidly through the beds than our own brick spawn, -and is, on the whole, much more desirable. As it is usually very dry it -is a good plan to place some of it in the mushroom-house a few days -before spawning, so that it may begin to absorb moisture. A dark place -in a warm house, or gentle hotbed, would do as well, but in no case -should it be done more than three days before spawning time. At spawning -this might with advantage be mixed with some that has not gone through -this process. A bushel of the ordinary brick spawn will suffice to spawn -about one hundred square feet. All spawn should be inserted near the -surface, just buried in the materials of which the bed is made. The thin -flakes of spawn which the French use, and which are usually nearly the -length and breadth of the open hand, are generally inserted into the bed -edgeways, or in a direction slanting upwards, so that while one edge of -the piece is buried three or four inches in the bed, the other is seen -peeping through at the surface. Thus each flake of spawn is exposed to a -slight difference of temperature, and, being thin and spongy enough to -be immediately impregnated with the moist warmth of the beds, takes -quickly and well. As to any particular mode of inserting the spawn, -little need be said; if the bed be beaten so hard as many recommend, and -which I do not believe to be at all necessary, a dibber will be required -to insert the spawn; if not, it may be readily inserted with a trowel or -with the hand. It is a good plan to use a mixture of two kinds of spawn. - - -_Soil._ - -As regards the kind of soil used in earthing, it is not of nearly so -much importance as is generally supposed; almost any soil will do; but -those having heaps of good maiden loam laid by for gardening purposes -will prefer to use a coating of that. I believe that any ordinary garden -soil would do, and feel certain that it is a mistake to bestow the least -trouble on procuring any particular kind of soil from a distance. The -beds in the caves around Paris are covered over with a white putty-like -substance, which would be sufficient to shake the nerves of any British -mushroom-grower accustomed to his coatings of mellow loam. It is simply -the fine rubbish from the stone breakage moistened, and smoothly and -firmly pressed over the beds. We, if shown this on a bed that had -failed, would assuredly attribute it to the "stuff" with which the bed -was covered, though finer crops than these little beds yield it would be -impossible to find. I notice this subject so that failures may be traced -to their true causes, and not attributed to matters which really have -but slight influence. The final covering of from one to two inches of -loam or other soil should not be applied till the spawn has begun to -spread through the bed, but a very thin layer of dryish loam may be -placed on with advantage just after spawning has taken place, as it will -serve to make the surface of a more equable temperature. It is a mistake -to suppose that a deep covering is of any advantage. The final earthing -should be of soil sufficiently moist or moistened to permit of its being -pressed into a firm surface. However, unless it is exceptionally dry, a -mere sprinkling of water will suffice. - - -_Watering._ - -As the materials of mushroom-beds are generally moist, and as but little -evaporation can take place in the structures in which they are usually -grown, water is rarely necessary, and should not be applied until the -surface of bed and soil are really dry. It should then be given -copiously, enough to well moisten the bed, and it should be soft water -heated to a temperature of 80 degrees given with a fine rose, and -steadily and patiently applied equably over the whole surface of the -bed. Waterings that merely wet the surface and saturate the crevices or -lower parts of the bed are of no use. If one drenching is not sufficient -to moisten the bed properly, another should be given. The flat form of -bed is of course much more easily watered, and is on the whole the best -for beds under cover. The position of beds will have a great influence -on the quantity of water they require, so that it is almost impossible -to give precise directions on this head; but I can scarcely conceive a -case in which it will be necessary before six or eight weeks after the -formation of a bed, and I have seen fine crops gathered without a single -watering having been given. In watering old beds one ounce of guano to -the gallon of water will prove beneficial. - - -_Vermin in Mushroom Beds._ - -Woodlice are the greatest pests the mushroom-grower has to dispose of, -and the most effective way of getting rid of them is by destroying them -with boiling water. The surface of the bed being firm and covered with -smooth firm soil, the only likely place to afford these creatures the -interstices they usually retire into when disturbed, or when not -employed in eating the head of every little mushroom that presents -itself, is round the edges of the bed, and in the slit which often -occurs between the bed and wall or sides of the shelves that support it. -There they are likely to be found in great numbers, and may be destroyed -wholesale by pouring boiling water all along the crack. If the beds be -covered with hay or litter, it will be necessary to remove this and -allow them time to retreat into their hiding places; and if the beds are -made in any position that permits of the woodlice hiding in other places -than the interstices round them, these places should be sought out, -marked, and receive a searching dose of the scalding water all at the -same time. It need hardly be added that, as it is not mushrooms, but -creatures that rival ourselves in their love of mushrooms, that we wish -to annihilate, the scalding water must not in any case be applied to the -surface of the bed. If on the surface of old or dry beds, or those from -which a good many mushrooms have been cut or pulled, there are any loose -hollows or crevices in which the woodlice can take shelter, they should -be sought out, cleared of vermin, levelled up, and made firm, so that -the enemy cannot take up a position in which we cannot attack him. -Should this plan fail, half an ounce of sugar of lead, mixed with a -handful of oatmeal and laid in their tracks, will quickly destroy the -pests. - -The small mite is most destructive in a high temperature, and in summer, -Mr. Cuthill says, "the maggot" will not breed in a house where the -temperature does not exceed sixty degrees, and it is in hot, dry, and -half-neglected houses that this pest is usually seen in summer. At that -season there is little need to grow mushrooms indoors, and how they may -be produced otherwise in great abundance is explained further on. The -entrance of rats should also be guarded against. - -Mushroom-beds come into bearing about six weeks from the time of -spawning, and remain in bearing from two to five months, according to -the position in which they are made, and the attention paid to them. - - -_Treatment of Old Beds._ - -Upon the continuous bearing qualities of a mushroom bed a word may be -said. It may savour of the ridiculous to say that a plant growing upon a -dung bed may fail from the want of manure. Yet such is literally and -positively the fact. Beds become worn out, the produce small and -spindly, and we directly do away with them and make fresh ones. Instead -of doing this, give the bed a thorough soaking of stable urine and -water, at the temperature of 80 degrees, using the urine in the -proportion of one part to five of soft water, and adding a wineglassful -of salt to each canful; then coat the bed with fresh sod, cover it down -with mats so as to promote the heating, and a second crop as good as the -first may be obtained. In this matter I speak from experience, and Mr. -Ingram, at Belvoir, has followed the same plan for many years with the -most satisfactory result. - - -_Gathering the Crop._ - -Gatherings should frequently take place, especially where the culture -is pursued on a large scale. Where there are several beds in bearing, -the mushrooms should be gathered every morning. In all cases they should -be pulled or twisted out, never cut out, so as to leave decaying stumps -in the beds. The holes made by pulling out the mushrooms should be -filled with a little fine loam, of which a small heap may be kept in the -house for this purpose. - - -_Cleansing the House._ - -A word as to the necessity of a thorough annual cleansing of the -mushroom-house. The fact that the French cave-cultivators find it -necessary to shift from cave to cave, and find that after a cave has -been in use a certain time, mushrooms cease to be produced in it, should -act as a caution in this respect. In summer, when there is no need to -attempt the culture indoors, the house should be thoroughly cleaned out, -lime-whited, every surface scraped and washed, and the house freely -opened, so as to thoroughly sweeten it. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -CULTURE IN SHEDS, CELLARS, ARCHES, OUTHOUSES, AND ALL ENCLOSED -STRUCTURES OTHER THAN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE. - - -MUSHROOMS may be, and are, grown to perfection in many less ambitious -structures than the mushroom-house proper. Any species of outhouse will -do for the autumn and early winter crops. One of the best crops I have -ever seen was grown in a dry and unused coach-house. Mr. Robert Fish -grows all his crops in a long, low, rude thatched shed, open in -front--the beds flat, in a continuous line against a wall, and enclosed -by a low board. Mr. Cuthill, who wrote on mushrooms, and who used to -grow them very well, grew his in rude sheds placed against walls. It -matters not in the least if the shed be open or ventilated here and -there, especially for autumn crops, as I have seen admirable crops in -low outhouses searched by every gust, and not heated by flues. The beds -in these should always be covered with hay. Mushrooms may be grown in -cellars; but cellars being commonly under houses, they are not exactly -the places to which people like to convey the materials necessary for -the making of mushroom-beds. Where they occur away from a -dwelling-house, this objection will not hold good. In some cases it -might be obviated by making the beds in rough boxes, say 3½ ft. long -by 1½ ft. wide, and afterwards introducing them into the cellar. -Railway or other arches, or any dry and empty structures, may be used -for mushroom-growing. - -"The construction," says Mr. William Ingram, of Belvoir, in a letter to -the _Field_, "of efficient mushroom-houses is sufficiently understood by -most of our hothouse-builders and by gardeners; but the economical -adaptation of places which already exist is a matter which may with the -greatest advantage be discussed, as there are hundreds of persons about -whose establishments may be found outhouses, cellars, quarries, or -sheds, capable of conversion into mushroom-houses, who would be very -glad to be taught the method of growing mushrooms, and to have the -simple principles that should govern the construction of mushroom-houses -explained. - -"There are few large farmsteads that are without an unconsidered place -which could be readily adapted for the purpose of growing mushrooms; and -farmers possess the material at hand, horse manure, which would not -suffer great deterioration if employed in first raising a crop of -mushrooms. Country brewing establishments have equal conveniences and -opportunities. By relating the means by which I have been for several -years able to raise large quantities of excellent mushrooms, in a place -originally but ill adapted for the purpose, I may induce some of those -persons who desire the luxury of what Soyer called 'the Pearl of the -Fields,' to turn their attention to the subject of their growth. - -"I had a large, open, airy shed at command, but it was liable to be -affected by changes in the weather, and was altogether too draughty and -cold in winter, and too hot in summer. I built within this shed, with -rough fir boards, an inner shed, 18 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and 8 ft. in -height; two receptacles for beds were formed, one on the floor, the -other above it: and to give the requisite heat in winter, I passed a -flue, formed of 9-in. socket pipes, through the house; with this I can -always command an adequate amount of heat. The material of which the -beds are formed is chiefly droppings, collected from an enclosed and -covered exercise ground. These droppings are trampled by the horses, and -mixed with straw broken up with the manure by the passage of the horses. - -"When first collected it is piled up in a large heap, in a perfectly dry -state, and when wanted for the bed is thrown out, sprinkled with water, -and fermented for about a week; while hot, it is taken to the house, and -as it is thrown in is mixed with a small quantity of soil of a loamy -character, and a barrow-load of leaf soil. It is then pressed into as -compact a mass as possible by a rammer or mallet, building it up until -it forms a bed 10 in. thick in front and 20 in. at the back. After a bed -formed of this description of materials has been thus put together, -rapid fermentation takes place; and when the most violent fermentative -action has passed, and a temperature of 80° is found in the bed, spawn -is put into it by means of a dibber. I employ brick spawn obtained from -good makers, but, to vary and possibly prolong the period of production, -I introduce a certain quantity of spawn saved from old beds. This is -longer in its development than the made spawn, and appears as a -subsidiary crop. After the bed is spawned, a covering of compact loamy -soil is spread on the surface, 1½ in. to 2 in. in thickness, and well -beaten upon it so as to form a smooth and hard crust. A temperature -ranging from 50° to 60° should be maintained in the house. A lower -temperature abstracts the heat from the bed more rapidly. - -"When the mushrooms begin to exhibit weakness, as after the bed has -produced a certain quantity they will do, from the exhaustion of the -more stimulating portions of the manure, I find it an excellent practice -to administer a sprinkling of water in which a handful of salt has been -thrown (that quantity of salt to a three-gallon can). Saltpetre, though -in much smaller quantities, is equally valuable given in the same way. -The practice I have described relates to the winter cultivation of -mushrooms." - -Many instances of perfect success like the preceding could be quoted. -Here is one from Mr. W. P. Ayres:-- - -"You will be glad to hear that we have on the outskirts of this town -(Nottingham) a grower of mushrooms (Mr. Cookson, Mansfield Road) who -vies with the French growers, especially if the means of growth be taken -into consideration. The place he occupies was formerly the pleasure -garden of a large hotel, where the proprietor would occasionally, in the -summer season, treat his friends and patrons to an _al fresco_ -entertainment. For this purpose a range of summer-houses was built, -consisting of brick arches, say 12 feet deep, 6 feet wide, and a little -more in height. Close adjoining is a small sandstone-rock cellar, which -used to serve for drinkables in the summer and potatoes in the winter. - -"Some twelve months ago these premises and the house adjoining fell into -the occupation of a gardener, who, though he had a licence to the house, -fancied he might turn the arches to a better purpose, and hence he -devoted them to mushroom beds. As it was necessary that the arches -should be closed, a wall about three feet high was built in the rudest -manner parallel with their front, but six feet from it, and from that a -roof of rough timber was thrown, and covered with asphalted felt. Here, -however, was a mistake; for, the building standing due south, when the -sun fell upon it the atmosphere became rather 'tarry'--so much so that -the mushrooms refused to grow in it. That wore off after a time, and -from a bed not more than thirty yards square the tenant told me he had -cut more than 25_l._ worth of mushrooms. When I saw the beds they might -be considered spent, the flush of early youth was over; but still the -crop was most wonderful, especially considering the means at command. - -"In the rock cellar the small beds were a pavement of splendid -mushrooms, many of them as large over as a cheese-plate, and thick in -proportion. In the garden is a barn--four walls with a roof over them, -the latter so rude that it was only in fair weather that it could be -called waterproof. In this place which may be 25 ft. long by 15 ft. -wide, two tiers of beds have been put up, the roof has been made -waterproof, a common brick flue put through it, and, at the time I saw -them, more promising beds could not be desired. Here again, you will -perceive expensive appliances are not necessary for the production of -mushrooms." - -Stables and like structures offer capital positions in which successful -mushroom culture may be carried out with ease. - -If it is possible, and we know it is not only possible but easy, to grow -mushrooms in boxes a few feet long and a foot or eighteen inches wide, -and the same depth, it is clear that there can be no difficulty about -growing them in abundance in such a manner as that shown in the -accompanying engraving. This mode was actually practised with great -success by the Baron Joseph d'Hoogvorst, of Limmel. - -[Illustration: Fig. 14. Mushroom culture on shelves in stable.] - -The culture was carried out in neatly fitted-up wooden boxes, so -arranged that they might be shrouded with canvas curtains as shown in -the engraving, so that at first sight one would not suppose that -mushroom culture was carried on there. No evil results as regards the -creation of an unhealthy atmosphere accompanied the attempt. The beds -were formed much in the usual way from the droppings of highly fed -horses. Now there can be no doubt that a similar mode of growing -mushrooms could be carried out in the stables or some adjacent building -in hundreds of places apart from the garden and the gardener altogether. -Given the materials and some position, however contracted, in which to -carry out the culture, and both these things are surely to be had almost -in every place where there is a stable, the rest is so simple that any -stableman or boy could carry it out. We know that these individuals, as -a class, are not much given to botanical or horticultural studies, but -no doubt the prospect of an occasional half-dozen fresh mushrooms on the -gridiron would give them most praiseworthy interest in the culture. The -only objection to it is, or might be, that once they were at home in the -culture, the gardener would be very likely to fall short of materials -for his hotbeds. An empty loft, or any other covered structure could be -employed as well as the stable or an empty coach-house. Apart altogether -from utilizing the walls of the stable, as the Baron did, empty stalls -frequently present an opportunity of growing mushrooms in quantity. -These remarks apply to stables in cities and towns, as well as in the -country; indeed in cities, particularly in London, stable manure is -usually so plentiful that it is much easier to obtain and much cheaper -than in the country, so that even those in London having suitable places -for growing mushrooms, but not keeping horses regularly or at all, could -have no difficulty in procuring abundance of materials. - -[Illustration: Fig. 15. Mushroom-bed on rude shelf against wall of -cellar.] - -The French often cultivate mushrooms in cellars as well as in the caves -described in the next chapter. Preference should be given to a dry warm -cellar; it should be as dark as possible, and exposed to no draughts. -Beds can be made in cellars in many ways. Those made in the middle -should always be formed with two sides, while those against the walls -should only be half as thick, on account of their having only one useful -side. It is also possible to arrange them on shelves, one above the -other. For this purpose strong bars of iron are driven into the walls, -upon which are placed shelves of the proper size covered with earth, -upon which is formed a bed, that is treated exactly as those made upon -the ground. These beds are just as productive as any of the other -kinds. They may even be made on the bottoms of casks, which should be -at least two feet six in diameter; and they are built up in the shape of -a sugarloaf, about three feet in height, and the pieces of spawn are -placed an inch and a quarter deep, and sixteen inches apart. A barrel is -sawn crossways into two pieces, each forming a tub. Holes are made in -the bottom of each, and a thin layer of good soil is spread over them -inside. They are then filled with good well-prepared stable manure, just -like that used in the case of ordinary mushroom-beds, the different -layers of dung in each tub being well pressed down. When the tub is half -full, six or seven good pieces of spawn are placed on the surface, and -the remainder is piled up with manure, which is well pressed down, the -operation being completed by giving to the heap the form of a dome. The -tubs thus prepared are placed in a perfectly dark part of a cellar, and -eight or ten days afterwards the dung is taken up until the spawn is -visible, in order to see whether it has commenced to vegetate and -develop little filaments. If the spawn has spread, the surface must be -covered with soil, care being taken to use only that which is fresh and -properly prepared. In this or any like way there should be no difficulty -in growing mushrooms: the boxes or tubs could be filled anywhere, and -then carried into the spare cellars, &c. In this way objections against -steaming manure might in many cases be got over. - -[Illustration: Fig. 16. Pyramidal mushroom-bed on floor of cellar.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 17. Mushrooms grown in bottom of old cask.] - -Among the many and various structures in which mushrooms may be grown, -but which we rarely see utilized for that purpose, may be mentioned all -kinds of greenhouses, stoves, pits, and frames. Some of the best crops I -have ever seen were in cold greenhouses almost too ruinous to grow -anything else. In mid-winter the floors of all houses in which a genial -temperature is kept up for forcing or other purposes, offer excellent -positions for producing mushrooms quickly and abundantly. Small -ridge-like beds might be made on the floor of these, and, with the -genial temperature usually kept up in such places, would probably come -into bearing a month or so after being spawned. How often, for example, -do we notice the floors of large vineries, in mid-winter or very early -spring, quite bare, especially after the vines are started. Now just at -that season the genial heat that would be given off from the slightly -fermenting materials used for the mushroom-bed is that which would be -most congenial to the tender breaking vines, and with a little attention -in this way a first-rate crop of mushrooms could always be gathered from -the early vinery, and in houses where no artificial heat was applied -they could also be grown abundantly. A covering of hay would, however, -be necessary in cold houses in mid-winter, to prevent excessive -variation of the temperature, and also in spring and summer to prevent -excessive drying or scorching of the beds by a hot sun. I have even seen -excellent crops grown on the floor in an old lean-to house, the beds -covered with a foot or so of hay, occasionally sprinkled with water to -prevent excessive heat on the surface of the bed. In small places where -every foot of space in the glass-house is likely to be occupied with -plants, it is not easy to carry out the foregoing suggestions, but even -if a small early vinery were occupied with plants, it would be desirable -and practicable to introduce a series of rough boxes devoted to mushroom -culture. - -Apart from empty greenhouses altogether, the space beneath the stages in -numbers of glass-houses of every type may be utilized for the production -of mushrooms. These positions are usually unoccupied, occasionally they -are used for storing fuchsias, &c. in winter, but very seldom are they -turned to so good account as they might be in the way I recommend. The -stage in the small greenhouse is frequently elevated so that there is -plenty of room to get beneath it: if at the back or end there is no way -of walking readily under the stage, an opening should be made. The only -difficulty that could possibly occur would arise from the drip from the -plants on the stage above. This, however, can be easily guarded against -by spreading a piece of tarpaulin or oil-canvas over the bed or beds. -With beds properly made, a coat of dry hay or litter, and a piece of -tarpaulin, every owner of anything in the shape of a greenhouse with a -stage in it may grow mushrooms throughout the autumn, winter, and spring -months, and even in summer by keeping the surface of the hay or litter -moist. Of course, if there be room for but one bed, a succession cannot -be kept up, and in this case a bed should be made in autumn, which, if -well managed, should be in full bearing for a month or six weeks before -and after Christmas. There are, however, numerous spaces such as those -alluded to where there is room to make a succession of beds. No person -having but one greenhouse need fear much or any inconvenience from the -odour of the manure--at least, not after the beds are earthed. The -couple of inches of soil over the manure would absorb any vapour given -off by the bed. - -Wherever the cultivation of cucumbers or melons in pits or frames is -carried out, nothing can be easier than to grow large crops of mushrooms -after the melons, &c. are cleared away. The spawn may be inserted over -the surface of the little mounds usually made for the reception of the -young melon plants, and also over the remaining surface of the beds -which are generally covered with a few inches of earth. After the melons -have done bearing and the haulm is cleared away, the spawn will usually -be found to have spread through the deep mass of earth in the beds. As -little or no water is given or required while the melons are ripening, a -good soaking of tepid water will generally be necessary to encourage the -mushrooms to start into profuse bearing. If the season and situation be -mild and warm, the lights may be taken off; and if the sun be very -strong, the beds may be shaded with canvas or mats. If the season be -late and cold it will, on the other hand, be desirable to keep on the -lights, and even to cover them in cold weather. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS, NEAR PARIS. - - -THE most extensive and successful culture of mushrooms in existence is -carried on in widely-ramifying caves far beneath the surface in the -vicinity of Paris. To give the reader as good an idea of it as I can we -must visit one of the great "Mushroom caves" at Montrouge, just outside -the fortifications of Paris, on the southern side. The surface of the -ground is mostly cropped with wheat; but here and there lie, ready to be -transported to Paris, blocks of white stone, which have recently been -brought to the surface through coalpit-like openings. There is nothing -like a "quarry," as we understand it, to be seen; the stone is extracted -as we extract coal, and with no interference whatever with the surface -of the ground. We find a "champignonniste" after some trouble, and he -accompanies us across some fields to the entrance of his subterranean -garden. It is a circular opening like the mouth of an old well, but from -it protrudes the head of a thick pole with sticks thrust through it. -This pole, the base of which rests in darkness sixty feet below, is -the easiest and indeed the only way by which human beings can get into -the mine. I had an idea that one might enter sideways and in a more -agreeable manner, but it was not so. Down the shaky pole my guide -creeps, I follow, and soon reach the bottom, from which little passages -radiate. A few little lamps fixed on pointed sticks are placed below, -and, arming ourselves with one each, we slowly commence exploring dark, -still, tortuous passages. I have heard that the first individual who -commenced mushroom-growing in these catacomb-like burrowings was one -who, at a particularly glorious epoch of the history of France, when a -great many more brave garçons went to fight than returned from the -victory, preferred, strange to say, to stay at home and hide himself -rather than form a unit in "battle's magnificently stern array." -Industrious and discreet youth! You deserve being held up as an example -as much as the busy bee that improves each "shining hour." - -[Illustration: Fig. 18. Mushroom-cave, 70 feet beneath the surface, at -Montrouge, near Paris, July, 1868.] - -The passages are narrow, and occasionally we have to stoop. On each hand -there are little narrow beds of half-decomposed stable manure running -along the wall. These have been made quite recently, and have not yet -been spawned. Presently we arrive at others in which the spawn has been -placed, and is "taking" freely. The spawn in these caves is introduced -into the little beds in flakes taken from an old bed, or, still better, -from a heap of stable manure in which it occurs naturally. Such spawn -is preferred, and considered much more valuable than that taken from old -beds. Of spawn in the form of bricks, such as is used in England, there -is none. - -[Illustration: Fig. 19. Newly-made bed against wall of cave.] - -The champignonniste pointed with pride to the way in which the flakes of -spawn had begun to spread through the little beds, and passed -on--sometimes stooping very low to avoid the pointed stones in the -roof--to where the beds were in a more advanced state. Here we saw -little, smooth, putty-coloured ridges running along the sides of the -passages, and wherever the rocky subway became as large as a small -bedroom two or three little beds were placed parallel to each other. -These beds were new, and dotted all over with mushrooms no bigger than -sweet pea seeds, affording an excellent prospect of a crop. Each bed -contains a much smaller body of manure than is ever the case in our -gardens. They are not more than twenty inches high, and about the same -width at the base; while those against the sides of the passages are not -so large as those placed in the open spaces. The soil, with which they -are covered to the depth of about an inch, is nearly white, and is -simply sifted from the rubbish of the stone-cutters above, giving the -recently-made bed the appearance of being covered with putty. - -Although we are from seventy to eighty feet below the surface of the -ground, everything looks quite neat--in fact, very much more so than -could have been expected, not a particle of litter being met with. A -certain length of bed is made every day in the year, and as the men -finish one gallery or series of galleries at a time, the beds in each -have a similar character. As we proceed to those in full bearing, -creeping up and down narrow passages, winding always between the two -little narrow beds against the wall on each side, and passing now and -then through wider nooks filled with two or three little beds, daylight -is again seen. This time it comes through another well-like shaft, -formerly used for getting up the stone, but now for throwing down the -requisite materials into the cave. At the bottom lies a large heap of -the white earth before alluded to, and a barrel of water--for gentle -waterings are required in the quiet, cool, black stillness of these -caves, as well as in mushroom-houses on the upper crust. - -Once more we plunge into a passage as dark as ink, and find ourselves -between two lines of beds in full bearing, the beautiful white -button-like mushrooms appearing everywhere in profusion along the sides -of the diminutive beds, something like the drills which farmers make -for green crops. As the proprietor goes along he removes sundry bunches -that are in perfection, and leaves them on the spot, so that they may be -collected with the rest for to-morrow's market. He gathers largely every -day, occasionally sending more than 400 lb. weight per day, the average -being about 300 lb. - -[Illustration: Fig. 20. View in mushroom-cave.] - -A moment more and we are in an open space, a sort of chamber, say 20 -feet by 12, and here the little beds are arranged in parallel lines, an -alley of not more than four inches separating them, the sides of the -beds being literally blistered all over with mushrooms. There is one -exception; on half of the bed and for about ten feet along, the little -mushrooms have appeared and are appearing, but they never get larger -than a pea, and shrivel away, "bewitched" as it were. At least such was -the inference drawn from the cultivator's expression about it. He -gravely attributed it to a ridiculously superstitious cause. Frequently -the mushrooms grow in bunches or "rocks," as they are called, and in -such cases those that compose the little mass are lifted all together. - -The sides of one bed here had been almost stripped by the taking away of -such bunches, and it is worthy of note that they are not only taken out, -root and all, when being gathered, but the very spot in which they grew -is scraped out, so as to get rid of every trace of the old bunch, and -the space is covered with a little earth from the bottom of the heap. It -is the habit to do this in every case, and when the gatherer leaves a -small hole from which he has pulled even a solitary mushroom, he fills -it with some of the white earth from the base, no doubt intending to -gather other mushrooms from the same spots before many weeks are over. -The "buttons" look very white, and are apparently of prime quality. The -absence of all littery coverings and dust, and the daily gatherings, -secure them in what we may term perfect condition. I visited this cave -on the 6th of July, 1868, and doubt very much if at that season a more -remarkable crop of mushrooms could be anywhere found than was presented -in this subterranean chamber--a mere speck in the space devoted to -mushroom culture by one individual. - -When I state that there are six or seven miles run of mushroom-beds in -the ramifications of this cave, and that the owner is but one of a large -class who devote themselves to mushroom culture, the reader will have -some opportunity of judging of the extent to which it is carried on -about Paris. These caves not only supply the wants of the city above -them, but those of England and other countries also, large quantities of -preserved mushrooms being exported, one house alone sending to our own -country no less than 14,000 boxes annually. There were some traces of -the teeth of rats on the produce, and it need not be said that these -enemies are not agreeable in such a place; but they did not seem to have -committed any serious ravages, and are probably only casual visitors, -who take the first opportunity of obtaining more varied food than is -afforded them by these caves. To traverse the passages any further is -needless--there is nothing to be seen but a repetition of the culture -above described, every available inch of the cave being occupied. We -again find our way to the bottom of the shaft, carefully mount the -rather shaky pole one at a time, and again stand in the hot sun in the -midst of the ripe wheat. - -In traversing the fields two things relating to mushroom culture are to -be observed--heaps of white gritty earth, sifted from the _débris_ of -the white stone, and large heaps of stable manure accumulated for -mushroom growing, and undergoing preparation for it. That preparation is -different from what we are accustomed to give it. It is ordinary stable -manure, or very short stuff, not droppings, and is thrown into heaps -four or five feet high, and perhaps thirty feet wide. The men were -employed turning this over, the mass being afterwards stamped down with -their feet, a water-cart and pots being used to thoroughly water the -manure where it is dry and whitish. - -As many will feel an interest in the cave culture of the mushroom, and -perhaps wish to see it for themselves, I may state that it is difficult -to obtain permission to visit the caves, and many persons would not like -the look of the "ladder" which affords an entrance. Even with a -well-known Parisian horticulturist I had some difficulty in entering -them. I was informed that one champignonniste in the same neighbourhood -demands the exorbitant price of twenty francs for a visit to his cave. -As the visit is the work of some little time, no visitor should put the -cultivators to this trouble without offering some slight recompense--say -not less than five francs. The above cave is but a sample of many in the -immediate neighbourhood of Paris. - -We will next visit a mushroom-cave of another type at some little -distance from that city. It is situated near Frépillon, -Méry-sur-Oise--a place which may be reached in an hour or so by the -Chemin de fer du Nord, passing by Enghien, the valley of Montmorency and -Pontoise, and alighting at Auvers. There are vast quarries in the -neighbourhood, both for building-stone and the plaster so largely used -in Paris. The materials are not quarried in the ordinary way by opening -up the ground, nor by the method employed at Montrouge and elsewhere in -the suburbs of Paris, but so that the interior of the earth looks like a -vast gloomy cathedral. In 1867 the mushroom culture was in full force at -Méry, and as many as 3000 lbs. a day were sometimes sent from thence to -the Paris market; but the mushroom is a thing of peculiar taste, and -these quarries are now empty--cleaned out and left to rest. After a time -the great quarries seem to become tired of their occupants, or the -mushrooms dislike the air; the quarries are then well cleaned out, the -very soil where the beds rested being scraped away, and the place left -to recruit itself for a year or two. In 1867 M. Renaudot had the -extraordinary length of over twenty-one miles of mushroom-beds in one -great cave at Méry; last year there were sixteen miles in a cave at -Frépillon. This is a clean, lonely village, just touching on the -gigantic cemetery which M. Haussmann projected. - -[Illustration: Fig. 21. Entrance to large subterranean quarry.] - -The distant view of the entrance to the quarries has much the appearance -of an English chalk-pit. But there is a great rude arch cut into the -rock, and into this we enter, meeting presently a waggon coming forth -with a load of stones, the waggoner with lamp in hand. To the visitor -who has seen the mushroom caves near Paris, where it is sometimes -necessary to stoop very low to avoid knocking one's head against the -roof rocks, the surprise is great on getting a little way in. At least -it is so soon as one can see; the darkness is so profound that a few -candles or lamps merely make it more visible. The tunnel we traverse is -nearly regularly arched, masonry being used here and there, so as to -render the support secure and somewhat symmetrical, the arches being -flat at the top for six feet or so, and about twenty-five feet high; -sometimes five feet higher. - -[Illustration: Fig. 22. - -Plan of large subterranean quarry at Fortes Terres, Frépillon. _S_, _S_, -_S_, represent the plan of the bases of the huge supporting pillars, and -the dotted lines their union with the roof. _D_, _C_, shows the line of -the section shown in the following cut, and _P_, place for preparing the -plaster. Sept. 1868.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 23. Section following the line _C_, _D_, in Fig. -22.] - -Presently we turn to the right, and a scene like a vast subterranean -rock temple presents itself. At one end are several of us with lamps, -admiring the young mushrooms budding all over the rows of beds, which, -serpent-like, are long and slim, and coil away into the darkness. At -about 150 feet distance there is a group of three men and a boy, each -with a lamp, again dispelling the darkness from the mushroom beds, and -occupied in placing small quantities of a sort of white clayey sand in -the spots whence gatherings have been made a few hours previously. From -both sides of this gloomy avenue the dark openings of others depart at -short intervals, and the floor of all is covered with mushroom-beds, -sometimes running along the passages, sometimes across them. These beds -are about twenty-two inches high and as much in diameter, and are -covered with silver sand and a sort of white putty-like clay in about -equal proportions. Running along in parallel lines, and disappearing -from view in the darkness, one knows not what to compare them to, unless -it be to barked pine trees in the hold of a ship. - -Everywhere on the surface of these little beds small mushrooms were -peering forth in quantity; as the beds are regularly gathered from every -day, no very large ones are seen. They are preferred when about the size -of a chestnut, and are removed root and branch, a small portion of -finely sifted earth being placed in each hole, so as to level the bed as -in the caves at Montrouge. If the old superstition that a mushroom never -grows after being seen by human eyes were true, the trade of a -champignonniste would never answer here, as the little budding -individuals come within view every day during the gathering and earthing -operations. The most perfect cleanliness is observed everywhere in the -neighbourhood of these beds, and the whole surface of each avenue is -covered by them, leaving passages of ten inches or a foot between the -beds. At the time of my visit (Sept. 29, 1868) the crops of the -cultivator were reduced to their lowest ebb, and yet about 400 lbs. per -day were sent to market. The average daily quantity from this cave is -about 880 lbs., and sometimes that is nearly doubled. - -In some parts of the cave the work of ripping out the stone by powder -and simple machinery continually goes on. The arches follow the veining -of the stone, so to speak; their lower parts are of hard stone, the -upper ones of soft, except the very top, which is again hard. There is -but a slight crust of stone above the apex of each arch, and above that -the earth and trees. - -It may be supposed that the profits from such an extensive culture are -great; and so they are, but the expense is great also. The proprietor -informed me that culture on a more limited scale than he pursued last -year at Méry gave the best return in proportion to expense, the care and -supervision required by so many miles of beds being too great. - -[Illustration: Fig. 24. Extracting the stone in subterranean quarries.] - -All the manure employed is brought from Paris by rail, as the place is -twenty-five miles from that city by road. In the first place, so much -per month is paid in Paris for the manure of each horse; then it has to -be carted to the railway station and loaded in the waggons; next it is -brought to the station of Auvers, and afterwards carted a couple of -miles to the quarries, paying a toll for a bridge over the Oise on the -way. That surely is difficulty enough for a cultivator to begin with! -Then it is placed in great flat heaps a yard deep by about thirty long -and ten wide, not far removed from the mouth of the cave, and here it is -prepared, turned over and well mixed three times, and as a rule watered -twice. About five or six weeks are occupied in the preparation, long -manure requiring more time than short. The watering is not usually done -regularly over the mass, but chiefly where it is dry and overheated. -Every day manure is brought from Paris; every day new beds are made and -old ones cleared out--the spent manure being used for garden purposes, -particularly in surfacing or mulching, so as to prevent over-radiation -from the ground in summer. The chief advantage the cultivator here has -is the facility of taking his manure or anything else in or out in -carts, as easily as if the beds were made in the open air. Near Paris, -on the contrary, everything has to be sent up and down through shafts -like those of an old well, and the men have to creep up and down a rough -pole like mice. Many men are employed in the culture, the daily -examination of sixteen miles of beds being a considerable item in -itself. Here and there a barrier in the form of straw nailed between -laths may be seen blocking up the great arch to a height of six feet or -so. This is to prevent currents of air wandering about through the vast -passages. - -The mode of preparing the spawn here is entirely different to ours. They -prefer virgin spawn--that is to say, spawn found naturally in a heap of -manure. But as this material cannot be obtained in sufficient quantity -to meet the wants of such extensive growers, they put a small portion of -it into a mushroom-bed to spread, and instead of allowing this bed to -produce mushrooms, it is all used as spawn, and is valued more than any -other. Of course abundance of spawn occurs in the old beds, but it is -never used directly. It is, however, frequently employed to spawn a -small bed when virgin spawn cannot be obtained. In this case the small -bed devoted to the propagation of spawn is placed in the open air, and -covered with straw, and as soon as it is permeated with the spawn it is -carried into the caves and used. As the making and spawning of beds is a -process continually going on, a bed of this sort must be ready at all -times. It is never made into bricks as with us, but simply spread -through short, partly-decomposed, manure.[A] - -[A] Mr. Speed, superintendent of the gardens at Chatsworth, has recently -prepared his own spawn, as described on p. 73, and with perfect success. - -I was informed that coal-mines are not adapted for growing mushrooms, -and the smallest particle of iron in the beds of manure is avoided by -the spawn, a circle around it remaining inert. It is said to be the same -with coal. If an evil-disposed workman wishes to injure his employer, he -has only to slip along by the beds with a pocketful of rusty old nails, -and insert one here and there. - -[Illustration: Fig. 25. View in old subterranean quarries devoted to -mushroom culture, and in the occupation of M. Renaudot. Sept. 29, 1868.] - -The beds remain in good bearing generally about two months, but -sometimes last twice and three times as long. A useful contrivance for -facilitating the watering of the beds has lately been invented; it -consists of a portable water-cistern to be strapped to the back and -fitted with a rose and tubing, so that a workman may carry a larger -quantity of water, and apply it more regularly and gently than with the -old-fashioned watering-pots--while one hand is left free to carry the -lamp. An iron frame has also been invented, in which the bed is first -compressed and shaped, the frame being then reversed and the bed placed -in position. Another invention for earthing the beds over as soon as the -spawn has taken will soon be in operation if not already so. As on an -average 2500 yards of beds are made every month, simple mechanical -contrivances to facilitate the operation will prove of the greatest -advantage to the cultivator. - -In addition to the caves in the localities above alluded to there are -other places near Paris where the culture is carried on--notably at -Moulin de la Roche, Sous Bicêtre, near St. Germaine, and also at -Bagneux. The equability of temperature in the caves renders the culture -of the mushroom possible at all seasons; but the best crops are gathered -in winter, and consequently that is the best time to see them. I, -however, saw abundant crops in the hottest part of the very hot season -of 1868. These mushroom caves are under Government supervision, and are -regularly inspected like any other mines in which work is going on. As -regards the depth at which this culture is practised, it usually varies -from twenty to one hundred feet, sometimes reaching one hundred and -fifty and one hundred and sixty feet from the surface of the earth. They -are so large that sometimes people are lost in them. In one instance the -proprietor of a large cave went astray, and it was three days before he -was discovered, although soldiers and volunteers in abundance were sent -down. Is it possible that in a great mining and excavating country like -ours we cannot establish the same kind of industry? - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -CULTURE ON PREPARED BEDS IN THE OPEN AIR IN GARDENS AND FIELDS. - - -MUSHROOMS may be grown with ease in the open air in gardens; and this is -a phase of the culture with which gardeners are not by any means -sufficiently conversant. In fact, mushroom-culture in the open air in -private gardens may be said not to exist at present, so very rarely is -it seen. - -In a little pamphlet on mushroom-growing that has lately appeared I find -it stated that mushrooms may be grown out of doors "in summer," but -nothing about them being grown in the open air in winter. The Paris -growers never attempt their culture in summer: the London ones very -rarely. It is in winter that their cultivation is carried on in full -vigour in the open air. Abundant crops are grown in the open air by the -market-gardeners of London and Paris. From their beds mushrooms are -gathered in quantities in mid-winter as well as in autumn. The Paris -market-gardener does not attempt the culture in mid-summer, and does not -think it practicable; but in the hot summer of 1868, and in the midst of -the heats of July, I found about half an acre of ground at Brompton -covered with mushroom-beds bearing well. - -The following illustration is from a sketch taken in Nov. 1869, in -market-garden fields, between Kensington and Brompton. The beds, about -three and a half feet high and the same in width at the base, are -covered with the long straw or litter taken from the stable manure. Over -that is placed old bast mats, or any like materials, to keep the litter -in its place, and throw off the rain; the mats being kept in place by -tiles, bricks, old boards, or any like objects that may be at hand. This -is well shown in my illustration. - -[Illustration: Fig. 26. Mushroom-beds in market-gardens at Earl's Court, -Kensington. November, 1869.] - -The manure employed is that brought from the London stables, the longer -litter being shaken out and put on one side to cover the beds. No care -whatever is taken in the preparation of the manure; it is usually made -into beds soon after it is brought home and before it is allowed to -heat, and then the beds are made in the form of potato-pits and beaten -very firm. The beds are spawned when at about a temperature of eighty -degrees, the pieces of spawn being placed about a foot or so apart, and -it is then immediately earthed, the ordinary soil being used, and the -bed covered to a thickness of a couple of inches. The success attained -by the market-gardeners of both London and Paris, with the ordinary soil -of the place in which the beds may be made, well proves the absurdity of -seeking for any particular kind of soil for covering mushroom-beds. Beds -made in this way in the autumn and winter months, and covered with a -thick layer of litter and mats, seldom require any watering. The culture -is not usually attempted in summer; the heat acting upon the littery -covering giving rise to insects which destroy the mushrooms; but with -care their culture is quite practicable at that season; in proof of -which I may say that during the last week of July, 1868, I saw them -gathered freely in a market-garden just beside the Gloucester Road -Station of the Metropolitan Railway, where by using a coating of litter -about a foot thick, and over that a layer of mats, it was possible to -procure them in good condition throughout the hottest summer within -memory. There are many acres of ground covered with beds made thus in -the market-gardens round London. - -[Illustration: Fig. 27. Uncovered end of mushroom-bed in Paris -market-garden. January, 1867.] - -We will next turn to the culture of the mushroom in the open air near -Paris. In old times the market-gardeners there used to grow it amongst -their ordinary crops with great profit, but since the champignonnistes -cultivate it under no danger from cold in the caves, the -market-gardeners, who used to raise it to a great extent in the open -air, do so now in a less degree. They begin with the preparation of the -manure, and collect that of the horse for a month or six weeks before -they make the beds; this they prepare in some firm spot of the -market-garden, and take from it all rubbish, particles of wood, and -miscellaneous matters; for, say they, the spawn is not fond of these -bodies. After sorting it thus, they place it in beds two feet thick, or -a little more, pressing it with the fork. When this is done the mass or -bed is well stamped, then thoroughly watered, and finally again pressed -down by stamping. It is left in this state for eight or ten days, by -which time it has begun to ferment, after which the bed ought to be well -turned over and re-made on the same place, care being taken to place the -manure that was near the sides of the first-made bed towards the centre -in the turning and re-making. The mass is now left for another ten days -or so, at the end of which time the manure is about in proper condition -for making the beds that are to bear the mushrooms. Little ridge-shaped -beds--about twenty six inches wide and the same in height--are then -formed in parallel lines at a distance of twenty inches one from the -other. - -In a market-garden they may stretch over a considerable extent, their -length being determined by the wants of the grower. The beds once made -of a firm, close-fitting texture, the manure soon begins to warm again, -but does not become unwholesomely hot for the spread of the spawn. When -the beds have been made some days, the cultivator spawns them, having of -course ascertained beforehand that the heat is genial and suitable. -Generally the spawn is inserted within a few inches of the base, and at -about thirteen inches apart in the line. Some cultivators insert two -lines, the second about seven inches above the first. In doing so, it -would of course be well to make the holes for the spawn in an alternate -manner. The spawn is inserted in flakes about the size of three -fingers, and then the manure is closed in over, and pressed firmly -around it. This done, the beds are covered with about six inches of -clean litter. Ten or twelve days afterwards the growers visit the beds, -to see if the spawn has taken well. When they see the white filaments -spreading in the bed they know that the spawn has taken; if not, they -take away the spawn they suppose to be bad and replace it with better. -But, using good spawn, and being practised hands at the work, they -rarely fail in this particular; and when the spawn is seen spreading -well through the bed, then, and not before, they cover the beds with -fresh sweet soil to the depth of about an inch or so. For cover, the -little pathway between the beds is simply loosened up, and the rich soil -of the market-garden applied equably, firmly, and smoothly with a -shovel. With these open-air beds they succeed in getting mushrooms in -winter. A covering of abundance of litter is put on immediately after -the beds are earthed, and kept there as a protection. They have not long -to wait till the beds are in full bearing, and when they are in that -state it is thought better to examine and gather from them every second -day, or even every day where there are many beds. And thus they grow -excellent mushrooms, and in great quantity, all the further attention -required being to renew the covering when it gets rotten, and an -occasional watering in a very dry season. - -Of course this kind of cultivation is perfectly practicable in private -gardens--where, however, I have not yet seen it carried out. Where there -is a mushroom-house or empty shed in which mushrooms may be grown, there -would be less occasion to pursue it, but there are many places in which -no such conveniences exist. In any case it is desirable that gardeners -generally should know to what a large extent this phase of the culture -is pursued round London and Paris, and how simply it is done. Instead of -mats, it would be an improvement to cover the beds with tarpaulin or -some other cheap material that would keep out the wet. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CULTURE IN GARDENS, ETC., WITH OTHER CROPS IN THE OPEN AIR. - - -THIS is a phase of culture which may be pursued to great advantage in -every private garden, almost without cost and attention. The low -ridge-like hotbeds, for example, made for both long and short prickly -cucumbers, gourds, marrows, &c., are admirably suited for growing a crop -of mushrooms under the leaves of the subjects for which they were made. -If the spawn be inserted soon after the beds are made, or at any -convenient time in early summer, the beds will come into bearing in due -course. Perhaps they may do so when mushrooms are found abundantly in -the fields; but there are thousands of persons possessing gardens who -have no fields in which to cull mushrooms, and who would like to gather -them fresh in summer or autumn, if they could not afford to grow them in -any covered structure in winter. And this is but one way in which they -may be grown with summer garden crops, as will appear from the following -communication, by Mr. Ayres, to the _Field_:-- - -"The finest crop and the best mushrooms I ever saw were grown in the -open ground, and without any protection at all. I will tell you how it -happened. Some years back I had the charge of the garden of a noted -hunting establishment in Northamptonshire, one of the aids to success -being that the manure of an average of nearly fifty highly-fed horses -went to the garden, the owner remarking that, whatever other things I -might run short of, there would be plenty of 'muck.' Well, the best of -the hunters during the summer were soiled in loose boxes, principally -under cover, and in these boxes the manure was allowed to accumulate -until it began to grow too hot for the feet of the horses; then it was -indispensable that it should be removed. About midsummer it so happened -that nearly three acres of ground had been cleared of the spring crop, -spinach, early peas, beans, &c., and I had determined to devote the -whole plot to winter brassicas, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, &c. The -ground was brashy and very poor, and consequently I determined to clear -the boxes and put the whole of the manure upon it. It was carted away so -rich in ammonia that the men who loaded it shed tears, not from -sentiment, but from compulsion; and when the manure was spread upon the -surface it was nothing less than a foot thick--so thick, that the -proprietor said it was impossible for it to be dug into the ground. -However, clearing a trench at one end of the piece, thirty inches wide -and nearly a foot deep, the subsoil was broken up with strong steel -forks, and upon that the dung covering the next strip was placed, and -covered with the surface soil of the next trench; and so the work -proceeded until the manure was put out of sight. I may remark that the -dung, especially that around the walls, contained evidence of being -strongly impregnated with mushroom spawn, though this was not regarded -as being likely to produce a crop of the esculent. A soaking rain -falling, the ground was immediately planted with brassicas, which grew -as if they could not help growing--and in fact they could not. - -"We had not planted for mushrooms, nor were mushrooms expected; but, -walking round one morning early in September, a bunch of splendid -fellows presented themselves, so large and thick and solid, that when I -took them in for breakfast my _chef de cuisine_ and 'better half' had -grave doubts as to whether they were 'the real thing.' However, they -were eaten, and the present writing is a proof that they did not poison -me. Returning to the plot, I found the bunch gathered was not a solitary -one--on the contrary, the ground was literally paved with mushrooms, -many of them so large that bushels were gathered for ketchup within a -few hours; while the retainers of a large establishment, down to the -lowest labourer, were in a fortnight positively sick of them, and -cartloads rotted upon the ground. - -"The evidence of this unexpected success demonstrated two things--first, -that if the ground is freely manured with _fresh_ dung from well-fed -horses, mushrooms are almost sure to be produced; and, secondly, that -the more the ground is covered with the foliage of plants, the more -certain will be the crop. Thus we found more mushrooms under savoys and -broccoli than under Brussels sprouts--the former no doubt protecting the -crop from heavy drenches of rain, which we know are very injurious to -the mushroom crop. Since this example of mushroom-growing turned up, -nearly fifteen years ago, I have frequently concentrated the fresh -manure under a row of savoys or broccoli, throwing in at the same time a -dust of mushroom spawn or the dung of a spent mushroom bed; and, except -in very wet seasons, I have rarely failed to have a fine supply during -the months of September and October. One point of success I believe to -be essentially necessary, and that is, that water shall have a free -passage through the ground at all times; hence the necessity of -trenching the ground, if you expect mushrooms as well as brassicas." - -Even in gardens where mushrooms are well grown in enclosed structures -such results in early autumn will often be desirable; while in numbers -of places where there are few or no opportunities of gathering them in -abundance under other circumstances, crops in the garden will be very -welcome. Therefore utilise the old mushroom-beds! - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -MUSHROOM CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC. - - -NOTWITHSTANDING the extreme abundance of the common mushroom in the -meadows and pastures of the British islands, and probably in similar -positions all the world over, it is scarce in many situations, and, it -may be, not a few persons would be willing to make it of more frequent -occurrence in their fields. There is an opinion not uncommon that this -cannot be done; that the mushroom is, to a great extent, a creature of -chance, and that it cannot be cultivated. This is not a philosophical -notion: there can be no doubt that the mushroom has to abide the results -of the struggle for life as well as any other species of plant. -Considering that we have taken the spawn from the fields and cultivated -it with great success in all sorts of positions, none of which it could -ever inhabit naturally, it is absurd to suppose that we cannot induce it -to grow in positions exactly similar to its native habitat. Found in -open, sunny meadows and pastures, and avoiding the shade of trees, it is -grown, as we have seen, in dark and deep mines; yet people suppose it -cannot be grown in those pastures in which it happens not to be found. -It is erroneously inferred that there is something in its constitution -or habit which causes it to occur in certain spots exclusively; but as -well might we say this of any other plant. We know well that hundreds of -native plants are hardy enough to grow almost anywhere, yet how many of -them are but locally distributed and rare! Again, many plants are weeds -in one district and unknown in another, perhaps, neighbouring one. - -As the Rev. M. J. Berkeley remarks:--"It is almost useless to advert to -the notion, though a very common one, which would regard these -productions as the creatures of chance or of a happy concurrence of -circumstances favourable to their growth from inorganic elements. It is -true they often occur in unexpected situations, and from their extreme -rapidity of development seem as if they could not have originated from -anything like seed. But, as accurate inquiry has now thrown much light -on the mystery in which the origin of intestinal worms was lately -involved, so the phenomena which attend the growth of fungi are -gradually receiving light, and they are found to follow essentially the -same laws as more perfect vegetables." It is, in fact, quite fair to -conclude that mushrooms, like most other plants, occupy but a small -space in the vast expanse of soil and site which are naturally adapted -for their growth. I read in a gardening journal that "it is impossible -to command a crop of out-door mushrooms." I am positive that it can be -done with almost as much certainty as any other crop, provided we take -into consideration certain conditions. Of course, we must remember its -natural wants; the more we do so, the more certain of success we may be. -We know that it grows most abundantly in rich, upland pastures where -water does not lie, associated with the meadow foxtail, meadow and hard -fescue and cock's-foot grasses, clovers, cowslips, daisies, yarrow, &c., -and also with the thistles (_Cnicus lanceolatus_ and _C. arvensis_), and -other plants fond of similar soils. We know that it is rarely found -where the marsh plume-thistle (_Cnicus palustris_), tufted hair-grass, -and other marsh grasses and plants abound, and from the presence or -absence of these plants we may easily make up our minds as to the -positions that suit it best. Now, it has long since been proved in -gardens that it is quite possible to cultivate plants to a much higher -degree of perfection than they ever attain in a wild state, under -conditions entirely different, and it is not improbable that we should -be able to grow the common mushroom in soils and positions far removed -from those in which it naturally occurs. But there is no occasion for -anything of the kind. It loves well-drained and dry pastures and -meadows, and is not the country covered with such? - -After selecting the position in which we wish to propagate mushrooms, -and no moderately dry pastureland need be without them, the next thing -to consider is the providing of the spawn. Hitherto this has probably -been the great difficulty. When nearly 20_l._ worth of mushroom spawn -was annually used in the mushroom-houses of a large garden, the expense -necessary to spawn a large pasture might well alarm the richest of -mushroom-loving landholders; but there is not the slightest occasion for -purchasing the spawn for this purpose. Every farmer and country -gentleman can make it as easily as, or more easily than, the -spawn-manufacturer, without any expense or inconvenience, the essential -thing being a quantity of rather short stable-manure. - -Where this is gathered in large heaps it will be easy to obtain the -requisite materials at once. Where it is not so, a few loads of stable -manure unmixed with long straw may be thrown together in the open air -and prepared for the purpose. There is no occasion to place it in a shed -of any kind, though if there be one at hand so much the better. If -prepared in the open air it should be on a dry place; the materials -should be subjected to exactly the same preparation as when used for -making a mushroom-bed, before described. They should be made into a -potato-pit-shaped bed, and spawned in the usual manner. For this -spawning it is of course necessary to obtain a little spawn, whether -home-made or bought from the seedsman, or found in what the French call -"a virgin condition" in the dunghill. In any case it will not be found -difficult to spawn one or more beds in this way, particularly as there -is nothing to prevent people drying as much home-made spawn at one time -as will suffice for a year or more. The spawn should be allowed to run -through this bed, which should be covered with a slight sprinkling of -earth, and beaten pretty firm. When it has penetrated through the bed, -it should, just before it arrives at a bearing condition, be ready to be -used as spawn. The number of beds to be spawned in this way may be -limited according to the extent of ground on which it is proposed to -grow the mushrooms. This spawn may be inserted in the meadows in early -summer, the most suitable time is in genial weather in May, and the -spawn should be inserted in holes from six to ten feet apart. - -The most expeditious and best way of inserting it is that termed -T-planting, striking the spade in the line represented by the -perpendicular of the T, and then in the horizontal one on the top, -pressing the spade back when in the last position, so as to readily -admit of the insertion of one or more pieces of spawn. The kind of spawn -made as I have recommended usually falls into small pieces, more likely -to impregnate the earth quickly than the stiff, brick-like pieces of -nursery spawn. The ground, after the insertion of the spawn, should be -pressed firm with the foot. As to the depth at which the spawn should -be deposited, it would be better not to put it at any given depth, but -so that while one piece of a flake may be at a depth of six inches or -nearly so, others may touch the very surface. This, it need hardly be -pointed out, would allow of the spawn vegetating at the depth and -temperature most congenial to it. It would be most desirable to spawn at -slightly different times, and, if possible, with different samples of -spawn: thus, for example, it would be well to use a mixture of old and -dried spawn with that taken fresh from one of the beds alluded to. If -this were not convenient, some part of the large bed of spawn might be -laid by to dry, and used a week or two afterwards. Probably the most -economical way of doing this on a large scale would be by employing a -number of boys, guided by an experienced workman. - -It is scarcely desirable to attempt the culture in kept lawns, as no -matter how suitable these are for it, the appearance of a large crop of -mushrooms would have anything but a tendency to beautify the carpet of -turf, and would probably become offensive from their odour. - -The preceding refers to the cultivation of mushrooms in pastures, -meadows, &c. There is not the slightest reason why a similar course of -culture would not succeed in fields amongst green crops. As large crops -of mushrooms have been produced in gardens under broccoli, &c., there is -no reason whatever why they might not be grown in the same manner under -field-turnips, mangold-wurtzel, &c. The spawn which could be so easily -prepared by any farmer, could be readily inserted in the sides of the -drills in which these crops are usually grown, the slight elevation of -which, by preserving the spawn from excessive wet, will favour its -development, and it would take possession of, and impregnate the manure -in the drill. In fact, prodigious quantities might be raised in this and -similar ways, with but little trouble; and should the fields be -afterwards laid down, as is not uncommonly the case, the pasture or -meadow would probably become a regular mushroom-ground. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE COMMON MUSHROOMS. - - -_Agaricus campestris_ (True Meadow Mushroom). - -THE common meadow mushroom varies considerably, but, "common to all are -a fleshy _pileus_, which is sometimes smooth, sometimes scaly, in colour -white, or of different shades of tawny, fuliginous, or brown; _gills_ -free, at first pallid, then flesh-coloured, then pink, next purple, at -length tawny-black; the _stem_ white, full, firm, varying in shape, -furnished with a white persistent ring; the _spores_ brown-black, and a -volva which is very _fugacious_."--_Badham's Esculent Funguses of -England._ - -[Illustration: Fig. 28. _Agaricus campestris_ (the True Meadow -Mushroom). Pastures, autumn; colour, white or pale brown; gills, salmon, -at length black; diameter, 3 to 6 inches. The spores are magnified 700 -diameters.] - -There is scarcely any one in England who does not feel himself competent -to decide on the genuineness of a mushroom; its pink gills easily -distinguish it from a kindred fungus, _Ag. arvensis_, the gills of which -are of a flesh-coloured grey, and out of the pickings of ten thousand -hands, a mistake is of rare occurrence; and yet no fungus presents -itself under such a variety of forms, or such singular diversities of -aspect! The inference is plain; less discrimination than that employed -to distinguish this would enable anyone who should take the trouble to -recognise at a glance many of those esculent species, which every -spring and autumn fill our plantations and pastures with plenteousness. -Neither is this left to be a mere matter of inference; it is -corroborated in a singular manner by what takes place at Rome; there, -whilst many hundred baskets of what we call toadstools are carried home -for the table, almost the only one condemned to be thrown into the -Tiber, by the inspector of the fungus market, is our own mushroom; -indeed, in such dread is this held in the Papal States, that no one -knowingly would touch it. "It is reckoned one of the fiercest -imprecations," writes Professor Sanguinetti, "amongst our lower orders, -infamous for the horrible nature of their oaths, to pray that one may -die of a _Pratiolo_;" and although it has been some years registered -among the esculent funguses of Milan and Pavia (on the authority of -Vittadini), it has not yet found its way into those markets. Mr. -Worthington G. Smith, in his "Mushrooms and Toad-stools," qualifies this -statement of Dr. Badham. - -_Agaricus campestris_ is not generally appreciated in Italy, and indeed -is seldom eaten, and never appears in the markets, for the simple reason -that there would be no sale for it. There is an edict in existence -ordering certain fungi to be thrown into the Tiber, but it is now, and -has long been altogether effete; and whilst there is an abundance of _A. -Cæsareus_ (avowedly the most delicious of all fungi) for the markets of -Italy, it is not to be expected the consumption will be given up for -another and little known species. - -_The Modes of Cooking this Species._--"The mushroom, having the same -proximate principles as meat, requires, like meat, to be cooked before -these become changed. The _Ag. campestris_ may be prepared in a great -variety of ways: they give a fine flavour to soup, and greatly improve -beef-tea; where arrowroot and weak broths are distasteful to the -patient, the simple seasoning of a little ketchup will frequently form -an agreeable change. Some roast them, basting with melted butter and -white (French) wine sauce. In patties and _vols-au-vent_ they are -equally excellent; in fricassees, as everybody knows, they are the -important element of the dish. Roques recommends in all cases the -removal of the gills before dressing, which though it secures a more -elegant-looking _entremets_, is only flattering the eye at the expense -of the palate."--_Badham._ - - -_Agaricus arvensis_ (Horse-Mushroom). - -"_Pileus_ fleshy, obtusely conico-campanulate, then expanded, at first -floccose, then smooth, even, or rivulose; _stem_ hollow, with a floccose -pith; _ring_ broad, pendulous, double, the outer split in rays; _gills_ -free, wider in front, at first dirty white, then brown, tinged with -pink."--_Berkeley's Outlines of British Fungology._ - -[Illustration: Fig. 29. _Agaricus arvensis_ (Horse-Mushroom). Pastures, -in autumn; colour, yellowish; gills pallid, at length black; diameter, 6 -to 24 in.] - -"This species is very nearly allied to the meadow mushroom, and -frequently grows with it, but it is coarser, and has not the delicious -flavour. It is usually much larger, often attaining enormous dimensions; -it turns a brownish yellow as soon as broken or bruised. The top in good -specimens is smooth, and snowy white; the gills are not the pure pink of -the meadow mushroom, but dirty brownish white, ultimately becoming -brown-black. It has a big, ragged, floccose ring, and the pithy stem is -inclined to be hollow. It is _the_ species exposed for sale in Covent -Garden Market. Indeed, after knowing the market for many years, I have -rarely seen any other species there; when the true mushroom, however, -_is_ there, it is frequently mingled with horse mushrooms, which seems -to show that the dealers do not know one from the other. In the wet days -of autumn, children, idlers, and beggars go a few miles from town into -the meadows to gather whatever they can find in the mushroom line; they -then bring their dirty stock to market, where it is sold to fashionable -purchasers; stale, vapid, and without taste--unless it be a bad one. - -"When young and fresh, the horse mushroom is a most desirable addition -to the bill of fare: it yields an abundant gravy, and the flesh is firm -and delicious. It is a valuable plant when freshly gathered, but when -stale it becomes tough and leathery, and without aroma or juice. - -"There is a curious, large, brown, hairy variety, of rather uncommon -occurrence, similar to the hairy variety of the meadow mushroom, the _A. -villaticus_ of Dr. Badham. It is a splendid form, but, I think, very -rare. I have only seen it once. - -"Many country-folk readily distinguish the meadow from the horse -mushroom, and show antipathy to the latter, although they are always -willing to put it into the jar as one of the ingredients of ketchup. -Opinions appear to differ greatly regarding the excellence of this -species. Mr. Penrose writes:--'I think young, and especially button, -specimens of this very indigestible; until they are well opened out, -they are unfit for use.' Such, however, I must say, is not my experience -of button specimens. - -"There is a strong odour attached both to the fungus and the spawn, the -ground just below the surface being frequently white with the latter; or -if horse-dung be kicked aside in a rich meadow frequented by -graminivorous animals, the earth will frequently present a snowy -whiteness from the spawn of this species, from which the young -individuals may be seen springing up. - -"I once saw a sheep eat a large specimen with great apparent gusto, -although the fungus was full of maggots."--_Worthington G. Smith._ - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -MODES OF COOKING THE COMMON MUSHROOMS. - - -THE following modes of cooking mushrooms may prove useful to some:-- - -_To Stew Mushrooms._--Trim and rub clean half a pint of large button -mushrooms; put into a stew-pan two ounces of butter, shake it over the -fire till thoroughly melted; put in the mushrooms, a tea-spoonful of -salt, half as much pepper, and a blade of mace pounded; stew till the -mushrooms are tender, then serve them on a hot dish. They are usually -sent in as a breakfast dish, thus prepared in butter. - -_Mushrooms à la Crême._--Trim and rub half a pint of button mushrooms, -dissolve two ounces of butter rolled in flour in a stew-pan; then put in -the mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a -tea-spoonful each of white pepper and of powdered sugar, shake the pan -round for ten minutes, then beat up the yolks of two eggs, with two -table-spoonfuls of cream, and add by degrees to the mushrooms; in two or -three minutes you can serve them in the sauce. - -_Mushrooms on Toast._--Put a pint of mushrooms into a stew-pan, with two -ounces of butter rolled in flour; add a tea-spoonful of salt, half a -tea-spoonful of white pepper, a blade of mace powdered, and half a -tea-spoonful of grated lemon; stew till the butter is all absorbed, then -add as much white _roux_ as will moisten the mushrooms; fry a slice of -bread in butter, to fit the dish, and as soon as the mushrooms are -tender serve them on the toast. - -_To Pot Mushrooms._--The small open mushrooms suit best for potting. -Trim and rub them; put into a stew-pan a quart of mushrooms, three -ounces of butter, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of -Cayenne and mace mixed, and stew for ten or fifteen minutes, or till the -mushrooms are tender; take them carefully out and drain them perfectly -on a sloping dish, and when cold press them into small pots, and pour -clarified butter over them, in which state they will keep for a week or -two. If required to be longer preserved, put writing paper over the -butter, and over that melted suet, which will effectually preserve them -for many weeks, if kept in a dry, cool place. - -_To Pickle Mushrooms._--Select a number of small, sound, pasture -mushrooms as nearly as possible alike in size; throw them for a few -minutes into cold water; then drain them; cut off the stalks, and gently -rub off the outer skin with a moist flannel dipped in salt; then boil -the vinegar, adding to each quart two ounces of salt, half a nutmeg -sliced, a drachm of mace, and an ounce of white pepper-corns; put the -mushrooms into the vinegar for ten minutes over the fire; then pour the -whole into small jars, taking care that the spices are equally divided; -let them stand a day, then cover them. - -_Another Method._--In pickling mushrooms take the buttons only and while -they are quite close, cut the stem off even with the gills and rub them -quite clean. Lay them in salt and water for forty-eight hours, and then -add pepper, and vinegar in which black pepper and a little mace have -been boiled. The vinegar must be applied cold. So pickled they will keep -for years. - -_Mushrooms en Ragoût._--Put into a stew-pan a little stock, a small -quantity of vinegar, parsley, and green onions chopped up, salt, and -spices. When this is about to boil, the mushrooms being cleaned, put -them in. When done remove them from the fire, and thicken with yolks of -eggs. - -_Mushrooms and Toast._--Peel the mushrooms, and take out the stems. Fry -them over a quick fire. When the butter is melted take off the pan. -Squeeze the juice of a lemon into it. Let the mushrooms fry again for -some minutes. Add salt, pepper, spices, and a spoonful of water, in -which a clove of garlic, having been cut into pieces, has soaked for -half an hour; let it stew. When the mushrooms are done, make a -thickening of yolks of eggs. Pour the mushrooms on bread fried in -butter, and laid in the dish ready for them. - -_Mushrooms en Caisse._--Peel the mushrooms lightly, and cut them into -pieces. Put them into cases of buttered paper, with a bit of butter, -parsley, green onions, and shalots chopped up, salt and pepper. Dress -them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, and serve in the cases. - -_Mushrooms à la Provençale._--Take mushrooms of good size. Remove the -stems, and soak them in olive oil. Cut up the stems with a clove of -garlic and some parsley. Add meat of sausages, and two yolks of eggs to -unite them. Dish the mushrooms, and garnish them with the forcemeat. -Sprinkle them with fine oil, and dress them in an oven, or in a _four de -campagne_. - -_Baked Mushrooms._--Peel the tops of twenty mushrooms; cut off a portion -of the stalks, and wipe them carefully with a piece of flannel dipped in -salt. Lay the mushrooms in a tin dish, put a small piece of butter on -the top of each, and season them with pepper and salt. Set the dish in -the oven, and bake them from twenty minutes to half an hour. When done, -arrange them high in the centre of a very hot dish, pour the sauce round -them, and serve quickly, and as hot as you possibly can. - -_Mushrooms au Gratin._--Take twelve large mushrooms about two inches in -diameter, pare the stalks, wash, and drain the mushrooms on a cloth; cut -off and chop the stalks. Put in a quart stew-pan an ounce of butter and -half an ounce of flour; stir over the fire for two minutes; then add one -pint of broth; stir till reduced to half the quantity. Drain the chopped -stalks of the mushrooms thoroughly in a cloth; put them in the sauce -with three table-spoonfuls of chopped and washed parsley, one -table-spoonful of chopped and washed shalot, two pinches of salt, a -small pinch of pepper; reduce on a brisk fire for eight minutes, put two -table-spoonfuls of oil in a _sauté_ pan; set the mushrooms in, the -hollow part upwards; fill them with the fine herbs, and sprinkle over -them lightly a table-spoonful of raspings; put in a brisk oven for ten -minutes, and serve. - -_Mushroom Soup._--Take a good quantity of mushrooms, cut off the earthy -end, and pick and wash them. Stew them with some butter, pepper, and -salt in a little good stock till tender; take them out, and chop them up -quite small; prepare a good stock as for any other soup, and add it to -the mushrooms and the liquor they have been stewed in. Boil all -together, and serve. If white soup be desired, use the white button -mushrooms, and a good veal stock, adding a spoonful of cream or a little -milk, as the colour may require. - -The following "family receipts" have been communicated by a friend: - -Clean a dozen or so of medium-size, place two or three ounces of nice -clean beef-dripping in the frying-pan, and with it a table-spoonful or -more of nice beef gravy. Set the pan on a gentle fire, and as the -dripping melts place in the mushrooms, adding salt and pepper to taste. -In a few minutes they will be cooked, and being soaked in the gravy and -served upon a hot plate, will form a capital dish. In the absence of -gravy, a _soupçon_ of "extractum carnis" may be substituted. - -_Mushrooms with Bacon._--Take some full-grown mushrooms, and having -cleaned them, procure a few rashers of nice streaky bacon, and fry it in -the usual manner. When nearly done, add a dozen or so of mushrooms, and -fry them slowly until they are cooked. In this process they will absorb -all the fat of the bacon, and with the addition of a little salt and -pepper, will form a most appetising breakfast relish. - -_Mushroom Stems_, if young and fresh, make a capital dish for those who -are not privileged to eat the mushrooms. Rub them quite clean, and after -washing them in salt and water, slice them to the thickness of a -shilling, then place them in a saucepan with sufficient milk to stew -them tender; throw in a piece of butter and some flour for thickening, -and salt and pepper to taste. Serve upon a toast of bread, in a hot -dish, and add sippets of toasted bread. This makes a light and very -delicate supper dish, and is not bad sauce to a boiled fowl. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -SOME OF THE MOST COMMON AND USEFUL EDIBLE FUNGI. - - - "Whole hundredweights of rich, wholesome diet rotting under - the trees; woods teeming with food, and not one hand to gather - it; and this, perhaps, in the midst of potato-blight, poverty, - and all manner of privations, and public prayers against - imminent famine." - _Dr. Badham._ - -VALUABLE as is the common mushroom, it is indisputable that not a few -other kinds are also capable of affording excellent food. Therefore, -figures are given of the most prevalent, useful, and easily recognised -kinds of edible fungi, as well as of the common mushrooms of our gardens -and markets. These figures have been admirably drawn by Mr. W. G. Smith, -and are accompanied by what seemed the most satisfactory accounts of the -characters and properties that are obtainable. The spores which -accompany the figures are uniformly enlarged seven hundred diameters. - - -_Marasmius oreades_ (Fairy-ring Champignon). - -_Pileus_ smooth, fleshy, convex, subumbonate, generally more or less -compressed, tough, coriaceous, elastic, wrinkled; when water-soaked, -brown; when dry, of a buff or cream-colour, the umbo often remaining -red-brown, as if scorched; _gills_ free, distant, ventricose, of the -same tint as the pileus, but more pale; _stem_ equal, solid, twisted, -very tough and fibrous, of a pale silky-white colour. - -[Illustration: Fig. 30--1. _Marasmius oreades_ (Fairy-ring Champignon). -Pastures, roadsides, and downs, in the autumn; colour, pale buff; _gills -broad and far apart_; diameter, 1 to 2 inches. - -Fig. 30--2. _Marasmius urens_ (False Champignon). Woods and pastures in -the autumn; colour, pale buff; _gills narrow and crowded together_; -diameter, ½ inch to 1½ inches.] - -The fairy-ring agaric is a valuable little fungus, and common on almost -every lawn. In hilly pastures it generally appears in broad brown -patches, either circular or forming a portion of a circle. - -_M. urens_, the most acrid of all allied funguses, usually grows in -woods, though sometimes in the fairy-ring. However, its flat top and -narrow crowded gills cause it to be readily distinguished anywhere. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Marasmius oreades as an edible Fungus._--"On -the Continent this species has long been considered edible, but on -account of its coriaceous texture it is dried and employed in the form -of powder, to season various made-dishes."--_Dr. Greville._ - -"The common fairy-ring champignon is the best of all our funguses, yet -there is scarcely one person in a thousand who dare venture to use it. -With common observation no mistake need be made with regard to it. It -has an extremely fine flavour, and makes perhaps the very best ketchup -that there is."--_Rev. M. J. Berkeley._ - -"An excellent flavour, as good as that of most funguses."--_Dr. Badham._ - -_Modes of Cooking Marasmius oreades._--_General Use._--"Cut in small -pieces and seasoned it makes an excellent addition to stews, hashes, or -fried meats, but it should only be added a few minutes before serving, -as the aroma is dissipated by over cooking. It is the mushroom used in -the French _à la mode_ beef-shops in London."--_Dr. Badham._ - -When stewed, the champignons require rather longer time to ensure their -being made perfectly tender. They are readily dried by removing the -stems from the fungus, threading them on a string, and hanging them up -in a dry airy place. "When dried, it may be kept for years without -losing any of its aroma or goodness, which, on the contrary, becomes -improved by the process, so as, in fact, to impart more flavour to the -dish than would have been imparted by the fresh fungus; though it is not -to be denied that the flesh then becomes coriaceous (or tough), and less -easy of digestion."--_Dr. Badham._ - -_Champignon Powder._--Put the champignons in a stew-pan with a little -mace and a few cloves, and a sprinkling of white pepper. Simmer, and -shake constantly to prevent burning, until any liquor that may exude is -dried up again. Dry thoroughly in a warm oven until they will easily -powder. Put the dried agaric, or the powder, into wide-mouthed glass -bottles, and store in a dry place. It will keep any length of time. A -tea-spoonful added to any soup, or gravy, or sauce, just before the last -boil is given, will produce a very fine mushroom flavour. - -_Pickled Champignons._--Collect fresh buttons of the fairy-ring agaric -and use them at once. Cut off the stems quite close and throw each one -as you do so into a basin of water in which a spoonful of salt has been -put. Drain them from it quickly afterwards, and place them on a soft -cloth to dry. For each quart of buttons thus prepared, take nearly a -quart of pale white wine vinegar, and add to it a heaped tea-spoonful of -salt, half an ounce of whole white pepper, an ounce of ginger-root -bruised, two large blades of mace, and a fourth of a salt-spoon of -cayenne pepper tied in a small piece of muslin. When this pickle boils -throw in the agarics and boil them in it over a clear fire moderately -fast, from six to nine minutes. When tolerably tender put them into -_warm_ wide-mouthed bottles, and divide the spice equally amongst them. -When perfectly cold, cork well, or tie skins and paper over them. Store -in a dry place, and keep out the frost. - -Full-sized champignons may be pickled exactly in the same way, but will -require longer boiling, until indeed they become tender.--_Modified from -Miss Acton._ - -_Champignons quickly Pickled._--Place the prepared buttons in bottles -with a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper-corns, and a tea-spoonful -of mustard seed in each, and cover with the strongest white wine -pickling vinegar boiling hot. Cork or tie down as before, but do not -expect them to keep above three months. - - -_Agaricus procerus_ (the Parasol Agaric). - -[Illustration: Fig. 31. _Agaricus procerus_ (Scaly Mushroom). Pastures, -&c., in autumn; colour, pale brownish buff; diameter, 5 to 12 inches.] - -_Pileus_ fleshy, ovate when young, then campanulate, and afterwards -expanded and umbonate (blunt pointed), from three to seven inches -across. Cuticle more or less brown, entire over the umbo, but torn into -patches, or scales which become more and more separated as they approach -the margin. Flesh white. _Gills_ unconnected with the stem, fixed to a -collar on the pileus surrounding its top. _Ring_ persistent, loose on -the stem. _Stem_ six or eight inches high, tapering upwards from a -pear-like bulb at the root, hollow with a loose pith, whitish brown, -but more or less variegated with small and close-pressed scales. - -Whenever an agaric on _a long stalk_, enlarged _at the base_, presents -_a dry cuticle_ more or less _scaly_, a darker coloured _umbonated top_, -_a moveable ring_, and _white_ gills, it must be _Agaricus procerus_, -the parasol agaric, and it may be gathered and eaten without fear. When -the whitish flesh of this agaric is bruised it shows a light reddish -colour. - -There are but two other agarics that at all resemble it, and both are -edible. One about the same size is _Agaricus rachodes_. It is not -generally considered so good in flavour as _A. procerus_. Mrs. Hussey, -however, says plainly, "If _Agaricus procerus_ is the king of edible -funguses, _Agaricus rachodes_ is an excellent viceroy." The other is the -_Agaricus excoriatus_, a very much smaller fungus, with a more slender -habit, a shorter stem, and no true bulb at the base. This elegant little -fungus is also very good eating. - -The parasol agaric has a very wide range of growth. It is a common -fungus, and is in _high request all over the Continent_. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus procerus as an Edible Fungus._--"A -most excellent mushroom, of a delicate flavour, and it must be -considered a most useful species."--_The Rev. M. J. Berkeley._ - -"Were its excellent qualities better known here, they could not fail to -secure it a general reception into our best kitchens, and a frequent -place among our side dishes at table."--_Dr. Badham._ - -"If once tried, it must please the most fastidious."--_Worthington G. -Smith._ - -There can be no question but that, when young and quickly grown, the -parasol agaric is a delicious fungus. It has a light and delicate -flavour without the heavy richness which belongs to the ordinary field -mushroom. The writer has prevailed on many persons to try it; all -without exception have liked it, many have thought it quite equal, and -some have proclaimed it superior, to the common mushroom. - -_Modes of Cooking the Agaricus procerus._--_Broiled Procerus._--Remove the -scales and stalks from the agarics, and broil lightly over a clear fire -on both sides for a few minutes; arrange them on a dish over fresh-made, -well-divided toast; sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put a small piece -of butter on each; set before a brisk fire to melt the butter, and serve -up quickly. - -If the cottager would toast his bacon over the broiled mushrooms, the -butter would be saved. - -_Agarics delicately Stewed._--Remove the stalks and scales from young -half-grown agarics, and throw each one as you do so into a basin of -fresh water slightly acidulated with the juice of a lemon, or a little -good vinegar. When all are prepared, remove them from the water, and -put them into a stew-pan with a very small piece of fresh butter. -Sprinkle with white pepper and salt, and add a little lemon-juice; cover -up closely, and stew for half an hour. Then add a spoonful of flour, -with sufficient cream, or cream and milk, until the whole has the -thickness of cream. Season to taste, and stew again gently until the -agarics are perfectly tender. Remove all the butter from the surface, -and serve in a hot dish, garnished with slices of lemon. - -A little mace, nutmeg, or ketchup may be added; but there are those who -think that spice spoils the mushroom flavour. - -_Cottager's Procerus Pie._--Cut fresh agarics in small pieces, and cover -the bottom of a pie-dish. Pepper, salt, and place them on small shreds -of fresh bacon, then put in a layer of mashed potatoes, and so fill the -dish, layer by layer, with a cover of mashed potatoes for the crust. -Bake well for half an hour, and brown before a quick fire. - -_A la Provençale._--"Steep for two hours in some salt, pepper, and a -little garlic; then toss in a small stew-pan over a brisk fire, with -parsley chopped, and a little lemon-juice."--_Dr. Badham._ - -_Agaric Ketchup._--Place agarics of as large a size as you can procure, -but which are not worm-eaten, layer by layer, in a deep pan, sprinkling -each layer as it is put in with a little salt. The next day stir them -well up several times, so as to mash and extract their juice. On the -third day strain off the liquor, measure, and boil for ten minutes, and -then to every pint of the liquor add half an ounce of black pepper, a -quarter of an ounce of bruised ginger-root, a blade of mace, a clove or -two, and a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed. Boil again for half an hour; -put in two or three bay leaves, and set aside till quite cold. Pass -through a strainer, and bottle; cork well, and dip the ends in resin. A -very little Chili vinegar is an improvement, and some add a glass of -port wine, or a glass of strong ale to every bottle. - -Care should be taken that the spice is not added so abundantly as to -overpower the true flavour of the agaric. A careful cook will keep back -a little of the simple boiled liquor to guard against this danger: a -good one will always avoid it. "Doctors weigh their things," said a -capital cook, "but I go by taste." But then, like poets, good cooks of -this order must be born so; they are not to be made. - - -_Coprinus comatus_ (the Maned Agaric). - -_Pileus_ cylindrical, obtuse, campanulate, fleshy in the centre, but -very thin towards the margin. The external surface soon torn up into -fleecy scales, with the exception of a cap at the top. _Gills_ free, -linear, and crowded. Quite white when young, becoming rose-coloured, -sepia, and then black, from the margin upwards. They then expand -quickly, curl up in shreds, and deliquesce into a black inky fluid which -stains the ground. _Stem_ of a pure white, four to five inches high, -contracting at the top, and bulbous at the base; hollow, fibrillose, -stuffed with a light cottony web. The bulb is solid and rooting, the -ring is movable. - -[Illustration: Fig. 32. _Coprinus comatus_ (Maned Mushroom). Pastures, -parks, and roadsides, summer and autumn; colour, snow-white; height, 5 -to 12 inches.] - -This very elegant agaric has also been called _Ag. cylindricus_, -Schoeff; _Ag. typhoides_, Bull; and _Ag. fimetarius_, Bolt. It is -common throughout the summer and autumn months, on road-sides, pastures, -and waste places. It is extremely variable in size. Its general -appearance is so distinct and striking, that it cannot possibly be -mistaken for any other agaric. It grows so abundantly on waste ground in -the dwellings and farm-yards that it may be, says Dr. Bull, called the -"agaric of civilization;" and for both these reasons it is most valuable -as an edible agaric. If its merits were known, it would be eaten as -freely as the common field mushroom. - -"The maned mushrooms," Miss Plues has well said, "grow in dense -clusters, each young plant like an attenuated egg, white and smooth. -Presently some exceed the others in rapidity of growth, and their heads -get above the ground, the stem elongates rapidly, the ring falls loosely -round the stem, the margin of the pileus enlarges, and the oval head -assumes a bell-shape; then a faint tint of brown spreads universally or -in blotches over the upper part of the pileus, and the whiteness of its -gills changes to a dull pink. A few more hours and the even head of the -pileus has split in a dozen places, the sections curl back, melt out of -all form into an inky fluid, and on the morrow's dawn a black stain on -the ground will be all that remains. And so on with the others in -succession." - -_Opinions on the Merits of Coprinus comatus as an Edible -Fungus._--"Esculent when young."--_Berkeley._ - -"Young specimens should be selected."--_Badham._ - -"No despicable dish, though perhaps not quite equal to the common -mushroom."--_M. C. Cooke._ - -"If I had my choice, I think there is no species I should prefer before -this one: it is singularly rich, tender, and delicious."--_Worthington -G. Smith._ - -Dr. M'Cullough, Dr. Chapman, Elmes Y. Steele, Esq., and some other -members of the Woolhope Club, hold Mr. W. G. Smith's opinion as the -result of considerable experience. It must be noted, however, that when -too young this agaric is rather deficient in flavour, and its fibres -tenacious. Its flavour is most rich, and its texture most delicate when -the gills show the pink colour with sepia margins. - -_Modes of Cooking the Coprinus comatus._--The best and simplest method -is to broil it and serve on toast in the ordinary way. It may be added -also with great advantage to steaks and made-dishes, to give flavour and -gravy. - -_Comatus Soup._--Take two quarts of white stock, and put in a large -plateful of the maned agaric roughly broken out; stew until tender; pulp -through a fine sieve; add pepper and salt to taste; boil and serve up -hot. Two or three table-spoonfuls of cream will be a great improvement. - -The agarics for this soup should be young, in order to keep its colour -light and good. The maned agaric is recommended on all sides for making -ketchup, but here, also, it should be quickly used, and the ketchup -quickly made. - - -_Agaricus gambosus_ (the True St. George's Mushroom). - -_Pileus_ thick and fleshy, convex at first, often lobed, becoming -undulated and irregular, expanding unequally; the margin more or less -involute, and at first flocculose; from three to four inches across; of -a light yellow colour in the centre, fading to almost opaque white at -the edges; it is soft to the touch; more or less tuberculated, and often -presenting cracks. _Gills_ yellowish-white, watery, narrow, marginate, -annexed to the stem with a little tooth: they are very numerous and -irregular, with many smaller ones interposed, "lying over each other -like the plaits of a frill" (from 5 to 11, Vittadini). _Stem_ firm, -solid and white, swelling at the base in young specimens; but in older -ones, though usually bulging, they are frequently of even size, and when -in long grass they occasionally even taper downwards. This agaric is -usually nearly white, smooth, soft, and firm, like kid leather to the -touch, and, as Berkeley has happily said, "in appearance it very closely -resembles a cracknel biscuit." - -They grow in rings; have a strong smell, and appear about St. George's -Day (April 23), after the rains which usually fall about the third week -in April. They continue to appear for three or four weeks, according to -the peculiarities of the season. They are usually to be found on hilly -pastures in woodland districts. - -The St. George's mushroom cannot well be mistaken for any other. The -fact of its appearance at this early season, and growing so freely in -rings, when so very few other funguses are to be found, is almost enough -to distinguish it. It has, however, very distinctive characters in -itself in the thickness of its pileus; the narrowness of its gills, -which are very closely crowded together; and the solid bulging stem. - -[Illustration: Fig. 33. _Agaricus gambosus_ (St. George's Mushroom). -Pastures, _in the spring_; colour, cream; diameter, 4 to 6 inches.] - -The St. George's mushroom is not an uncommon agaric in this country, and -where it does appear it is usually plentiful--a single ring affording -generally a good basket full. It should be gathered when young, or it -will be found grub-eaten, for no fungus is more speedily and more -voraciously attacked by insects than this one. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus gambosus as an Edible -Fungus._--"This rare and most delicious agaric, the _mouceron_ of -Bulliard, and the _Agaricus prunulus_ of other authors, abounds on the -hills above the valley of Staffora, near Bobbio, where it is called -_Spinaroli_, and is in great request; the country people eat it fresh in -a variety of ways, or they dry and sell it at from twelve to sixteen -francs a pound."--_Letter from Professor Balbi to Persoon._ - -"The most savoury fungus with which I am acquainted ... and which is -justly considered over almost the whole continent of Europe as the _ne -plus ultra_ of culinary friandise. - -"The _prunulus_ (_gambosus_) is much prized in the Roman market, where -it easily fetches, when fresh, thirty baiocchi--_i.e._, fifteen pence -per pound--a large sum for any luxury in Rome. It is sent in little -baskets as presents to patrons, fees to medical men, and bribes to Roman -lawyers."--_Dr. Badham._ - -The _Agaricus gambosus_ "is one that a person cannot well make any -mistake about. It sometimes attains a large size, is excellent in -flavour, and particularly wholesome."--_Rev. M. J. Berkeley._ - -_Mode of Cooking Agaricus gambosus._--"The best mode of cooking -_Agaricus gambosus_ is either to mince or fricassee it with any sort of -meat, or in a _vol-au-vent_, the flavour of which it greatly improves; -or simply prepared with salt, pepper, and a small piece of bacon, lard, -or butter, to prevent burning, it constitutes of itself an excellent -dish."--_Dr. Badham._ "Served with white sauce, it is a capital -appendage to roast veal."--_Edwin Lees._ It may be broiled, stewed, or -baked. - -_Breakfast Agaric._--Place some fresh-made toast, nicely divided, on a -dish, and put the agarics upon it; pepper, salt, and put a small piece -of butter on each; then pour on each one a tea-spoonful of milk or -cream, and add a single clove to the whole dish. Place a bell-glass, or -inverted basin, over the whole; bake twenty minutes, and serve up -without removing the glass until it comes to the table, so as to -preserve the heat and the aroma, which, on lifting the cover, will be -diffused through the room. It dries very readily when divided into -pieces, and retains most of its excellence. A few pieces added to soups, -gravies, or made-dishes, give a delicious flavour. - - -_Agaricus rubescens_ (Brown Warty Agaric). - -[Illustration: Fig. 34. _Agaricus rubescens_ (Red-fleshed Mushroom). -Woods, summer and autumn; colour, sienna-brown; diameter, 4 to 10 -inches.] - -_Pileus_ convex, then expanded, cuticle brown, scattered over with warts -varying in size. Margin striate. _Gills_ white, reaching the stem, and -forming very fine decurrent lines upon it. _Ring_ entire, wide and -marked with striæ. _Stem_ often scaly, stuffed, becoming hollow; when -old, bulbous. Volva obliterated. The whole plant has a tendency to turn -a sienna-red, or rust colour. This is very distinctly shown some little -time after it has been bruised. - -It is very common all through the summer and autumn months; indeed, one -of the most abundant mushrooms; "and it is one of those species that a -person with the slightest powers of discrimination may distinguish -accurately from others."--_Badham._ - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus rubescens as an Edible Fungus._--"A -very delicate fungus, which grows in sufficient abundance to render it -of importance in a culinary point of view."--_Badham._ - -"From long experience I can vouch for its being not only wholesome, but, -as Dr. Badham says, 'a very delicate fungus.'"--_F. Currey_, Editor of -Dr. Badham's "Esculent Funguses." - -_Modes of Cooking the Agaricus rubescens._--It may be toasted, boiled, -or stewed in the ordinary way. - -_Fried Rubescens._--Place the full-grown agarics in water for ten -minutes, then drain, and having removed the warty skin, fry with butter, -pepper, and salt. The ketchup made from _Agaricus rubescens_ is rich and -good. "As it grows freely, and attains a considerable size, it is very -suitable for that purpose, quantity being a great desideratum in -ketchup-making."--_Plues._ - - -_Agaricus nebularis_ (Clouded Mushroom). - -[Illustration: Fig. 35. Agaricus nebularis (Clouded Mushroom). Woody -places, in autumn; colour, cream, with slate-coloured top; diameter, 4 -to 10 inches.] - -"_Pileus_ from two and a half to five inches across; at first -depresso-convex; when expanded, nearly flat or broadly subumbonate; -never depressed; margin at first involute and pruinose; occasionally -somewhat waved and lobed, but generally regular in form; smooth, viscid -when moist, so that dead leaves adhere to it; grey, brown at the centre, -paler towards the circumference. _Flesh_ thick, white, unchanging. -_Gills_ cream-colour, narrow, decurrent, close, their margins waved, -unequal, generally simple. _Stem_ from two to four inches long, from a -quarter of an inch to an inch thick; incurved at the base; not rooting, -but attaching by means of a floccose down round its lower portion and -for one-third of its length, a large quantity of dead leaves, by which -the plant is held erect; subequal, more or less marked with longitudinal -pits, firm externally, within of a softer substance. The _odour_ strong, -like that of curd cheese."--_Badham._ - -"Common in certain places, but very rare near London. This species comes -up late in the autumn on dead leaves in moist places, principally on the -borders of woods. The gastronomic excellences of this species are well -known. When gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when -cooked, the firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and -palatable taste."--_W. G. Smith._ - -"The _Agaricus nebularis_ requires but little cooking; a few minutes' -broiling (_à la_ Maintenon is best), with butter, pepper, and salt, is -sufficient. It may also be delicately fried with bread crumbs, or stewed -in white sauce. The flesh of this mushroom is perhaps lighter of -digestion than that of any other."--_Badham._ - - -_Lactarius deliciosus_ (Orange-milk Mushroom). - -[Illustration: Fig. 36. _Lactarius deliciosus_ (Orange-milk Mushroom). -Under fir-trees, in autumn; colour, brown-orange; milk at first orange, -then green; diameter, 3 to 10 inches.] - -_Pileus_ smooth, fleshy, umbilicate, of a dull rufous orange, turning -pallid from exposure to light and air, but zoned with concentric circles -of a brighter hue; margin smooth, at first involute, and then becoming -expanded; from three to five inches across. Flesh firm full of -orange-red milk, which turns green on exposure to the air, as does any -part of the plant when bruised. _Gills_ decurrent, narrow, each -dividing into two, three several times from the stem to the edge of the -pileus; of a dull yellow by reflected light, but being translucent, the -red milk shines brightly through them. _Stem_ from one to three inches -high, slightly bent and tapering downwards; solid, becoming more or less -hollow with age; short hairs at the base; sometimes pitted -(scrobiculate). - -There is no possibility of mistaking this fungus. It is the only one -which has _orange-red milk_, and which _turns green when bruised_. These -properties distinguish it at once from _Lactarius torminosus_ or -_necator_, the only fungus which in any way resembles it. - -This acrid fungus (_Lactarius torminosus_) is somewhat similar in shape -and size, and is also zoned. But the involute edges of the pileus are -bearded with close hairs. It is of a much paler colour, and with gills -of a dirty white. The milk, also, is white, acrid, and unchangeable in -colour. - -The Orange-milk agaric chiefly affects the Scotch fir-tree, and is -generally to be found beneath the drip of the branches around the tree. -It is also found in hedgerows occasionally, but is most abundant in -plantations of Scotch fir or larch. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Lactarius deliciosus as an Edible -Fungus._--"This is one of the best agarics with which I am acquainted, -fully deserving both its name and the estimation in which it is held -abroad, it reminds me of tender lambs' kidneys."--_Dr. Badham._ - -"Very luscious eating, full of rich gravy, with a little of the flavour -of mussels."--_Sowerby._ - -"Cook them well, and you will have something better than kidneys, which -they much resemble both in flavour and consistence."--_Mrs. Hussey._ - -_Modes of Cooking Lactarius deliciosus._--"The rich gravy it produces is -its chief characteristic, and hence it commends itself to make a rich -gravy sauce, or as an ingredient in soups. It requires delicate cooking, -for though fleshy it becomes tough if kept on the fire till all the -juice is exuded. Baking is perhaps the best process for this agaric to -pass through. It should be dressed when fresh and pulpy."--_Edwin Lees._ - -_Stewed Deliciosus._--"The _tourtière_ (or pie-dish) method of cooking -suits _Lactarius deliciosus_ best, as it is firm and crisp in substance. -Be careful to use only sound specimens. Reduce them by cutting across to -one uniform bulk. Place the pieces in a pie-dish, with a little pepper -and salt, and a small piece of butter on each side of every slice. Tie a -paper over the dish, and bake gently for three-quarters of an hour. -Serve them up in the same hot dish."--_Mrs. Hussey._ - -_Deliciosus Pie._--Pepper and salt slices of the agaric, and place them -in layers with thin slices of fresh bacon, until a small pie-dish is -full; cover with a crust of pastry or mashed potatoes, and bake gently -for three-quarters of an hour. If with potato crust, brown nicely before -a quick fire. - -_Deliciosus Pudding._--Cut the agaric into small pieces; add similar -pieces of bacon, pepper, and salt, and a little garlic or spice; -surround with crust, and boil three-quarters of an hour. - -_Fried Deliciosus._--Fry in slices, properly seasoned with butter, or -bacon and gravy; and serve up hot with sippets of toast. A steak in -addition is a great improvement. - - -_Morchella esculenta_ (the Morel). - -Every one knows the Morel--that expensive luxury which the rich are -content to procure at great cost from our Italian warehouses, and the -poor are fain to do without. It is less generally known that this -fungus, though by no means so common with us as some others (a -circumstance partly attributable to the prevailing ignorance as to when -and where to look for it, or even of its being indigenous to England), -occurs not unfrequently in our orchards and woods, towards the beginning -of summer. Roques reports favourably of some specimens sent to him by -the Duke of Athol; and others, from different parts of the country, -occasionally find their way into Covent Garden Market. The genus -_Morchella_ comprises very few species, and they are all good to eat. -Persoon remarks, that though the Morel rarely appears in a sandy soil, -preferring a calcareous or argillaceous ground, it frequently springs up -on sites where charcoal has been burnt, or where cinders have been -thrown. - -[Illustration: Fig. 37. _Morchella esculenta_ (the Morel). Woods, &c., -in the spring; colour pale buff; height, 3 to 5 inches.] - -_Pileus_ very various in shape and hue, the surface broken-up into very -little cells, made by folds or plaits of the hymenium, which are more or -less salient, and constitute the so-called ribs. These _ribs_ are very -irregular, and anastomose with each other throughout; the pileus -hollow, opening into the irregular stem. _Spores_ pale yellow. Neither -of these funguses should be gathered after rain, as they are then -insipid and soon spoil. - -"M. Roques says the Morel may be dressed in a variety of ways, both -fresh and dry, with butter or in oil, _au gras_ or _à la crême_. The -following receipts for cooking them are from Persoon. 1st. Having washed -and cleansed them from the earth which is apt to collect between the -plaits, dry thoroughly in a napkin, and put them into a saucepan with -pepper, salt, and parsley, adding or not a piece of ham; stew for an -hour, pouring in occasionally a little broth to prevent burning; when -sufficiently done, bind with the yolk of two or three eggs, and serve on -buttered toast. 2nd. _Morelles à l'Italienne._--Having washed and dried, -divide them across, put them on the fire with some parsley, scallion, -chervil, burnet, tarragon, chives, a little salt, and two spoonfuls of -fine oil. Stew till the juice runs out, then thicken with a little -flour; serve with bread-crumbs and a squeeze of lemon. 3rd. _Stuffed -Morels._--Choose the freshest and whitest morels, open the stalk at the -bottom, wash and wipe them well, fill with veal stuffing, anchovy, or -any rich _farce_ you please, securing the ends, and dressing between -thin slices of bacon; serve with a sauce like the last."--_Badham._ - - -_Hygrophorus pratensis._ - -"_Pileus_ convexo-plane, then turbinate, smooth, moist; disc compact, -gibbous; margin thin; _stem_ stuffed, even, attenuated downwards; -_gills_ deeply decurrent, arcuate, thick, distant."--_Grev. t. 91; Huss. -II. t. 40._ - -[Illustration: Fig. 38 (1). _Hygrophorus pratensis._ Pastures, in -autumn; colour, full buff; diameter, 2 to 3 inches. - -Fig. 38 (2). _Hygrophorus virgineus_ (Viscid White Mushroom). Pastures, -in autumn; snow-white; diameter, ½ inch to 1½ inches.] - -"On downs and short pastures. Very common. _Pileus_ tawny or -deep buff, sometimes nearly white, as in the next. Probably -esculent."--_Berkeley._ - - -_Hygrophorus virgineus_ (Viscid White Mushroom). - -"_Pileus_ fleshy, convexo-plane, obtuse, moist, at length -areolato-rimose; _stem_ stuffed, firm, short, attenuated at the base; -_gills_ decurrent, distant, rather thick."--_Grev. t. 166._ "On -downs and short pastures. Extremely common. Mostly pure -ivory-white."--_Berkeley._ - -This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest -ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the -year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom. -It is essentially _waxy_, and feels and looks precisely as if made of -the purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and -the gills singularly distant from each other; it changes colour a little -when getting old, at which time it is unfit for culinary purposes. - -A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will -prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be -obtained when other species are not forthcoming. - -"Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably -_H. niveus_; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has eaten, and speaks -favourably of _H. psittacinus_--a highly ornamental yellow species, with -a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich pastures (and _said_ to be -very suspicious)."--_W. G. Smith._ - - -_Cantharellus cibarius_ (Chantarelle). - -[Illustration: Fig. 39. _Cantharellus cibarius_ (Chantarelle). Woods, -autumn; rich golden yellow; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.] - -When young its _stalk_ is tough, white, and solid; but as it grows this -becomes hollow and presently changes to yellow; tapering below, it is -effused into the substance of the _pileus_, which is of the same colour -with it. The _pileus_ is lobed, and irregular in shape; its margin at -first deeply involute, afterwards when expanded, wavy. The _veins_ or -plaits are thick, subdistant, much sinuated, running some way down the -stalk. The _flesh_ is white, fibrous, dense, "having the odour of -apricots" (_Purton_) or of "plums" (_Vitt._). "The _colour_ yellow, like -that of the yolk of eggs, is deeper on the under surface; when raw it -has the pungent taste of pepper: the _spores_, which are elliptic, are -of a pallid ochre colour." (_Vitt._) The Chantarelle grows sometimes -sporadically, sometimes in circles or segments of a circle, and may be -found from June to October. At first it assumes the shape of a minute -cone: next, in consequence of the rolling in of the margin, the pileus -is almost spherical, but as this unfolds it becomes hemispherical, then -flat, at length irregular and depressed. - -"This fungus," observes Vittadini, "being rather dry and tough by -nature, requires a considerable quantity of fluid sauce to cook it -properly." "The common people in Italy dry or pickle, or keep it in oil -for winter use. Perhaps the best ways of dressing the Chantarelle are to -stew or mince it by itself, or to combine it with meat or with other -funguses. It requires to be gently stewed, and a long time to make it -tender; but by soaking it in milk the night before, less cooking will be -requisite."--_Badham._ - - -_Hydnum repandum_ (Hedgehog, or Spine-bearing Mushroom). - -[Illustration: Fig. 40. _Hydnum repandum_ (Spine-bearing Mushroom). -Woods, autumn; colour, pale buff; diameter, 2 to 5 inches.] - -_Pileus_ smooth, irregular in shape, depressed in the centre, more or -less lobed, and generally placed irregularly on the stem (eccentric); of -a pale buff or cinnamon colour; from two to five inches in diameter. -Flesh firm and white; when bruised it turns slightly brown. _Spines_ -crowded, awl-shaped, slanting, soft and brittle, varying in size and -length, and of a faint cinnamon tint. _Stem_ white, short, solid, -crooked, and often lateral. - -There is no possibility of mistaking the hedgehog mushroom: when once -seen it is always to be remembered. Its awl-shaped spines are crowded -beneath the pileus; its size and colour are most marked; it resembles -closely, as has been said, a lightly-baked cracknel biscuit in colour. - -"This fungus occurs principally in woods, and especially in those of -pine and oak; sometimes solitary, but more frequently in company and in -rings."--_Badham._ - -_Opinions on the Merits of Hydnum repandum as an Edible Fungus._--"The -general use of this fungus throughout France, Italy, and Germany, leaves -no room for doubt as to its good qualities."--_Roques._ - -"When well stewed it is an excellent dish, with a slight flavour of -oysters. It makes also a very good _purée_.--_Dr. Badham._ - -"A most excellent fungus, but it requires a little caution in -preparation for the table. It should be previously steeped in hot water -and well drained in a cloth; in which case there is certainly not a more -excellent fungus."--_Berkeley._ - -"A wholesome fungus and not to be despised; but not in the first class -as to flavour, requiring the help of condiments. It has the advantage, -however, of growing later than most funguses, and may be found up to the -middle of November."--_Edwin Lees._ - -"One of the most excellent fungi that grows; its flavour very strongly -resembles oysters."--_The Rev. W. Houghton._ - -_Modes of Cooking Hydnum repandum._--The hedgehog mushroom is dense in -structure, and in whatever way it may be cooked, all authorities agree -that it must be done slowly at a low temperature until it is tender, and -with plenty of stock or white sauce to supply its deficiency in -moisture. - -_Stewed Hydnum._--"Cut the mushrooms in pieces and steep for twenty -minutes in warm water; then place in a pan with butter, pepper, salt, -and parsley; add beef or other gravy, and simmer for an hour."--_Trans. -from M. Roques._ - -"Stew in a brown or white sauce."--_Mrs. Hussey._ - -"Cut up in bits about the size of a bean, and stew in white sauce, when -it will almost pass off as oyster sauce."--_The Rev. W. Houghton, -F.L.S._ - - -_Agaricus orcella_ (Orgelle or Vegetable Sweetbread). - -_Pileus_ thin, irregular, depressed in the centre, lobed, with undulated -borders, from two to three inches across. In colour clear white, -sometimes tinted with pale brown on its prominences, and occasionally -with a grey centre or even lightly zoned with grey. Its surface is soft -and smooth to the touch, except in wet weather, when it becomes soft -and sticky. The flesh is soft, colourless, and unchangeable. _Gills_ -crowded, decurrent, at first nearly white, then pinkish grey, taking at -length a light brown tint. Spores pale brown. _Stem_ smooth, solid, -short, decreasing in size; central when young, but becoming eccentric -from the pileus growing irregularly. _Odour_ pleasant, usually compared -to that of fresh meal, but Dr. Badham and others think it resembles more -closely the smell of cucumber or syringa leaf. - -[Illustration: Fig. 41. (1) _Agaricus orcella_ and (2) _Agaricus -prunulus_ (Plum Mushroom). Woody places, in autumn; colour, snow-white, -with pale rose gills; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.] - - -_Agaricus prunulus_ (Plum Mushroom). - -_Pileus_ fleshy, compact, at first convex, then expanded, becoming -depressed in the centre, irregularly waved, and slightly pruinose; from -two to five inches broad; surface dry, soft, white, or sometimes grey. -The flesh thick, white, and unchangeable. _Gills_ crowded, deeply -decurrent, at first white, then a pale dull flesh-colour, or yellowish -brown. Spores pale brown. _Stem_ white, solid, firm, slightly -ventricose, an inch or more long, and half an inch thick; naked, often -striate, and villose at the base; often eccentric. _Odour_ like that of -new meal, but usually too strong to be agreeable. - -There has been considerable confusion, writes Dr. Bull, between the two -Agarics _orcella_ and _prunulus_; some thinking that we have only -_orcella_ in England (_Dr. Badham_); and others only _prunulus_ (the -_Rev. M. J. Berkeley_), and others again that they are both the same -fungus, differing only in size. Dr. Badham and some others again confuse -_prunulus_ with _gambosus_, the fungus of early spring, and this has -arisen from the French term _mousseron_ being often applied to both -these funguses; but they are so essentially different as not to be -liable in any way to be mistaken for each other. _Agaricus orcella_ and -_A. prunulus_ are both placed on the same page in the illustration, so -that their close alliance may be seen at a glance. Fries treats them as -separate funguses, "in deference to ancient authority, since their -differences are chiefly in degree." These differences are, nevertheless, -so well marked, that they are kept separate here. _Orcella_ is a smaller -and more delicate fungus than _prunulus_. It is thinner and less fleshy, -more undulated in its borders, and has a lighter and more agreeable -odour. _Orcella_ grows in more open glades than _prunulus_; it is -usually much whiter in colour, sometimes in high situations white and -glazed as an egg-shell, or even pottery. _Orcella_ grows more solitary -than _prunulus_, in light, scattered groups, showing an inclination for -the neighbourhood of oak-trees, and where it does grow it may be found -year after year in the same place, but seldom more than two or three in -a spot. Last year, 1869, when _orcella_ was pretty plentiful, _prunulus_ -was not to be found in the situations where it grows usually most -abundantly. _Prunulus_ is the reverse of all this. It prefers more -shaded places, is larger, more fleshy, and with a strong odour rather -heavy and overpowering. It grows in greater quantities together, and not -unfrequently in crowded rings from four to six feet in diameter. - -As edible funguses they should certainly be kept distinct. _Orcella_ is -light and pleasant in odour, and excellent in flavour: it is so tender -and delicate as to be termed, not inaptly, "vegetable sweetbread." -_Prunulus_, on the other hand, though always good, is to many people -too strong in odour, and more coarse in taste. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus orcella and A. prunulus._--"A very -delicate mushroom."--_Dr. Badham._ "The flavour of _orcella_ is very -delicate, and equal to anything amongst fungi, or rather superior to the -majority. The same remarks apply to _prunulus_, which I think is the -same thing. It belongs to the first rank of edible fungi."--_Edwin -Lees._ - -_Modes of Cooking Agaricus orcella and Agaricus prunulus._--_Orcella_ -being usually found in small quantities, is best, perhaps, when broiled -and served on hot toast. _Prunulus_ will yield an abundance for broiling -or stewing, or both. "_Orcella_ should be eaten the day it is gathered, -either stewed, broiled, or fried with egg and bread-crumbs like -cutlets."--_Dr. Badham._ "However prepared, it is most excellent; the -flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour, and whether broiled or -stewed, it is a most delicious morsel."--_Worthington G. Smith._ -"_Orcella_ will dry, and may be preserved in this way. It loses much of -its volume, but it acquires _un aroma suavissimo_."--_Vittadini._ _From -the Transactions of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club._ - -_Edible Fungi in America._--To give an idea of the rich stores of fungi -that spring up in some distant parts of the earth, and in climes so -different to ours that one would at first sight suppose such fragile and -fugacious bodies as fungi would not abound in them, the following -interesting communication from Dr. Curtis, of South Carolina, to the -Rev. W. Berkeley is here given. It will prove well worthy the attention -of American readers:-- - -"You have asked me to give you my 'experience with the eatable mushrooms -of America.' This will be most satisfactorily done, I presume, in pretty -much the same style in which I would narrate it to you at your own -fireside. My experience runs back only about twelve or fifteen years. -You may remember that previous to this period I expressed a fear of -these edibles, as I had grown up with the common prejudices against them -entertained by most people in this country. Having occasionally read of -fearful accidents from their use, and there being abundance of other and -wholesome food obtainable, I felt no inclination to run any risks in -needlessly enlarging my bill of fare. Thus I had passed middle life -without having once even tasted a mushroom. - -"But as under your guidance and assistance my knowledge of fungi -increased, a confidence in my ability to discriminate species grew up -with it, and a curiosity to test the qualities of these much-lauded -articles got the better of timidity; and now, I suppose, I can safely -say, that I have eaten a greater variety of mushrooms than anyone on the -American continent. I have even introduced several species before -untried and unknown. From the beginning of my experiments, however, I -have exercised great caution, even with species long recognised as safe -and wholesome. In every case I began with only a single mouthful. No ill -effect following, I made a second essay upon two or three mouthfuls, and -so on gradually until I made a full meal of them. Fortunately, I have -never blundered upon any kind that was mischievous, although I have -eaten freely of forty species. This is due, perhaps, to my general -acquaintance with species that have been long used in Europe, and hence -I have made no experiments upon new species which had not some affinity -or analogy with them. - -"For instance, _A. campestris_ and _A. arvensis_ being wholesome, I did -not doubt but that _A. amygdalinus_ (a new species closely allied to _A. -arvensis_) might be safely attempted, and it has proved equally safe and -palatable. Indeed, this may be regarded as the safest of all species for -gathering, as it can be discriminated from all others even by a child or -a blind person. Its taste and odour are so very like those of peach -kernels or bitter almonds, that almost invariably the resemblance is -immediately mentioned by those who taste it crude for the first time. -This flavour is lost by cooking, unless the mushroom be underdone. When -thoroughly cooked I cannot myself distinguish it from _A. campestris_. -One or two persons have expressed the opinion that they can distinguish -it, and that it is not quite so good. Others, again, are equally -positive that it is better. In the crude state I deem it the most -palatable of all mushrooms, as it leaves a very agreeable aftertaste -upon the palate, fully equal to that of almonds. This is the thing I -sent you some years since for cultivation, but which failed to grow. I -very much wish it might be propagated in England, so that we might -ascertain whether it would undergo any change of qualities in a -different soil and climate. I have for some time been entertaining the -suspicion that such is the case with many of our species. Thus, in -European books the Morel is described as possessing a peculiar flavour, -that has given its name to the Morello cherry. I can detect nothing of -the sort in our morel. You speak of _A. Cæsareus_ (in _Introd. Crypt. -Bot._) as being 'perhaps the most delicious of all fungi.' This grows in -great quantities in our oak-forests, and may be obtained by the cartload -in its season; but to my taste, and that of all my family, it is the -most unpalatable of all our fungi, nor can I find many of our most -passionate mycophagists who will avow that they like it. I have tried it -in almost every mode of cookery, but without success. There is a -disagreeable saline flavour that we cannot remove nor overlay. - -"In the _Tricholoma_ section, in which are several species long known as -edible, I did not hesitate to experiment upon any that had the odour and -taste of fresh flour. I began with _A. frumentaceus_, not learning from -books whether it had been eaten in Europe. To this I subsequently added -three new American species belonging to the same group. All are -excellent when stewed, and are especially valuable for their appearance -in late autumn, even during hard frosts, when other agarics are mostly -out of season. - -"Again, there seemed such a similarity of texture and habit between _A. -cæspitosus_ (_Lentinus_, Berk.) and _A. melleus_, although the former -belongs to _Clitocybe_, that the temptation to a trial of it was -irresistible. As it is found here in enormous quantities, and a single -cluster will often contain fifty to a hundred stems, it might well be -deemed a valuable species in a time of scarcity. It would not be highly -esteemed where other and better sorts can be had; but it is generally -preferred to _A. melleus_. I have found this species very suitable for -drying for winter use. - -"Among the _Boleti_ I ventured, in ignorance if it had ever been eaten, -to try _B. collinitus_, on account of its close relationship with _B. -flavidus_. I am not particularly fond of _Boleti_, but this species has -been pronounced delicious by some to whom I have sent it. - -"So among the _Polypores_, I had no fear of harm from the use of a new -American species (_P. poripes_, Fr.), on account of its relation to _P. -ovinus_, in its texture and its flavour. The taste of the crude specimen -is like that of the best chestnuts or filberts. It has been compared -even with the cocoa-nut, and is certainly of very agreeable flavour. It -does not, however, make a superior dish for the table, being rather too -dry, but it is innocent and probably nutritious. - -"Of the '_Merisma_' group of _Polypores_, having already tried _P. -frondosus_, _P. confluens_, and _P. sulfureus_, I ventured, after some -hesitation, and with more than usual caution, to test the virtues of a -new American species (_P. Berkelei_, Fr.), notwithstanding the intense -pungency of the raw material, which bites as fiercely as _Lactarius -piperatus_. When young, and before the pores are visible, the substance -is quite crisp and brittle, and in this state I have eaten it with -impunity and with satisfaction, its pungency being all dissipated by -stewing. I do not, however, deem it comparable with _P. confluens_, -which is rather a favourite with me, as it is with some others to whom I -have introduced it. _P. sulfureus_ is just tolerable; safe, but not to -be coveted when one can get better. When I say safe, I mean not -poisonous. I cannot recommend it as a diet for weak stomachs, which -should be said of some other fungi of similar texture. I am here -reminded of an experience I had three or four years ago with this -species, which would have greatly alarmed me had it happened at an -earlier date in my experiments, and which would probably have deterred -anyone unused to this kind of diet from ever indulging in it again. I -had a sumptuous dish of it on my supper-table, of which most of my -family, as well as a guest staying with us, partook very freely. During -the night I became exceedingly sick, and was not relieved until relieved -of my supper. My first thought on the accession of my illness was of -_Polyporus sulfureus_; but as I remembered that inflammation was one of -the symptoms of fungus-poisoning, and I could detect no indications of -this in my case, I soon dismissed the rising fear, did not send for the -doctor, nor take any remedy. Others, who had partaken of the fungus more -freely than myself were not at all affected; and I presume my sickness -was no more induced by the _Polyporus_ than by the bread and butter I -had eaten. And yet, had I alone partaken of the dish, or had one or two -others been affected in like manner, doubtless the night attack would -have been very confidently attributed by some to the mushroom; or had -this been my first trial of that article, possibly I might ever after -have regarded it with suspicion. I learned a few days afterwards from -one of our physicians, that this kind of sickness was then somewhat -prevalent in the community, and could be attributed to no known cause. -For the credit of this species, therefore, we were fortunately able to -distinguish the _post hoc_ from the _propter hoc_. - -"There are families in America that for generations have freely and -annually eaten mushrooms, preserving a habit brought from Europe by -their ancestors. In no case have I heard of an accident among them. I -have known no instance of mushroom-poisoning in this country, except -where the victims rashly ventured upon the experiment without knowing -one species from another. Among the families above mentioned, I have not -met with any whose knowledge of mushrooms extended beyond the common -species (_A. campestris_), called pink gill in this country. Several -such families live near me, but not one of them was aware, until I -informed them, that there are other edible kinds. Everything but the -pink gill, which had the form of a mushroom, was to them a toadstool, -and poisonous. When I first sent my son with a fine basket of Imperials -(_A. Cæsareus_), to an intelligent physician, who was extravagantly fond -of the common mushroom, the lad was greeted with the indignant -exclamation, 'Boy, I wouldn't eat one of those things to save your -father's head!' When told that they were eaten at my table, he accepted -them, ate them, and has eaten many a one since, with all safety and with -no little relish. Since that time our mycophagists eat whatever I send -them, without fear or suspicion. - -"I have interested myself to extend the knowledge of these things among -the lovers of mushrooms, and also their use among those who have not -before tried them. In the latter work I am not always successful, on -account of a strong prejudice against vegetables with such contemptible -names, and an unconquerable fear of accidents. Yet, as in my own case, -curiosity often conquers these errors. When away from home I have -frequently obtained permission from a kind hostess to have cooked a dish -of mushrooms that I have found on her premises. It has rarely occurred -in such cases that the dish, then tasted for the first time, was not -declared to be delicious, or the best thing ever put in the mouth. This -latter phrase was once used in reference to so indifferent an article as -_A. salignus_. Indeed, I have found several persons who class this -amongst the most palatable species. To such persons a dish of fresh -mushrooms need seldom be wanting, as this one can be had every month of -the year in this latitude. I am induced to believe that the quality of -this species varies with the kind of wood it grows from, and that it is -better flavoured when gathered from the mulberry, and especially from -the hickory, than when taken from most other trees. Its fitness for the -table seems also to depend much upon the rapidity of its growth; those -which grow slowly, as is the case with some of our garden vegetables, -being of tougher texture and of less delicate flavour. A warm sun after -heavy rains brings them out in greatest perfection. - -"I have several times been asked by persons eating mushrooms for the -first time, whether these things belong to the vegetable or animal -kingdom. There is certainly a very noticeable resemblance in the flavour -of some of them to that of flesh, fish, or mollusc, so that the -question, as founded merely on taste, is not an unnatural one. But I was -much struck with its propriety when reading an article in 'Fraser's -Magazine,' a few years since, written by the late Mr. Broderip, who -therein says that mushrooms contain osmazome. If this be so, it -accounts both for their flavour and for their value as food. Of this -latter quality I had become so well convinced that, during our late war, -I sometimes averred, and I doubt if there was much, if any, exaggeration -in the assertion, that in some parts of the country I could maintain a -regiment of soldiers five months of the year upon mushrooms alone. - -"This leads to a remark which should not be overlooked, upon the great -abundance of eatable mushrooms in the United States. I think it is Dr. -Badham who boasts of their unusual number in Great Britain, stating that -there are thirty edible species in that kingdom. I cannot help thinking -that this is an under-estimate. But if the Doctor is correct, there is -no comparison between the number in your country and this. I have -collected and eaten forty species found within two miles of my house. -There are some others within this limit which I have not yet eaten. In -the catalogue of the plants of North Carolina, you will notice that I -have indicated one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi known to -inhabit this State. I have no doubt there are forty or fifty more, as -the alpine portion of the State, which is very extensive and varied, has -been very little explored in search of fungi. - -"In October, 1866, while on the Cumberland Mountains in Tennessee, a -plateau less than 1000 feet above the valleys below, although having -very little leisure for examination during the two days spent there, I -counted eighteen species of edible fungi. Of the four or five species -which I collected there for the table, all who partook of them, none of -whom had before eaten mushrooms, most emphatically declared them -delicious. On my return homeward, while stopping for a few hours at a -station in Virginia, I gathered eight good species within a few hundred -yards of the dépôt. And so it seems to be throughout the country. Hill -and plain, mountain and valley, woods, fields, and pastures, swarm with -a profusion of good, nutritious fungi, which are allowed to decay where -they spring up, because people do not know how, or are afraid, to use -them. By those of us who know their use their value was appreciated, as -never before, during our late war, when other food, especially meat, was -scarce and dear. Then such persons as I have heard express a preference -for mushrooms over meat had generally no need to lack grateful food, as -it was easily had for the gathering, and within easy distance of their -homes if living in the country. Such was not always the case, however. I -remember on one occasion during the gloomy period, when there had been a -protracted drought, and fleshy fungi were to be found only in damp, -shaded woods, and but few even there, I was unable to find enough of any -one species for a meal; so gathering of every kind, I brought home -thirteen different kinds, had them all cooked together in one grand -_pot pourri_, and made an excellent supper. Among these was the -Chantarelle, upon which I would say a few words in confirmation of what -I have already said upon the varying qualities of mushrooms in different -regions and localities. You have somewhere written of this mushroom as -being so highly esteemed a delicacy, that it is much sought for when a -dinner of state is given in London. Can this be because it is a rarity? -(for nothing common and easily obtained is deemed a delicacy, I -believe), or because you have it of finer flavour in England? Here, -where it abounds, no one seems to care at all for it, and some would -forego mushrooms entirely rather than eat this. It certainly varies much -in quality, as I have occasionally found it quite palatable, and again, -though cooked in the same mode, very indifferent. I have been unable to -ascertain whether this difference is due to locality, exposure, shade, -soil, moisture, or temperature. That soil has much to do with the -flavour of some species of mushrooms I am well convinced. In a parcel of -pink gills I have sometimes found one or two specimens, though perfectly -sound, of such unpleasant odour and taste as would spoil a whole dish. -So also with the snowball (_A. arvensis_), of which I annually find a -few beautiful specimens growing near my residence, upon a grassy turf -which covers a pile of trash made up of decomposed sticks, leaves, and -scrapings from the adjoining soil. Their taste and odour are perfectly -detestable. I had one specimen cooked, but no amount of seasoning could -abate the offensiveness of the odious thing; yet within a hundred yards -of these I gather specimens of the same identical species, which are of -fine flavour, equal to that of the best mushrooms. As I have before -intimated the varying flavour of mushrooms growing on different kinds of -wood, so here I suppose the unpleasant qualities of some specimens of -these two well-known and favourite species, may be owing to something in -the soil where they grow which they cannot assimilate, and so render a -palatable and wholesome species totally unfit for the table. Whether -such specimens, if eaten, would be poisonous or unwholesome, I do not -feel any temptation to prove. It is not probable that they will ever do -any mischief, for it is incredible that any human being should so -pervert his instincts as to swallow such a villanous concoction. - -"Experience and observations like these would perhaps justify the -inference that an innocent species may sometimes be deleterious, on -account of its taking up some bad element from the soil. But as I have -never known a case of poisoning in families that are well acquainted -with the common mushroom or pink gill, that gather the specimens for -themselves, and have used this article of food annually for many -generations, I cannot agree with a suggestion somewhere made by you, -that perhaps all mushrooms contain a poisonous element, but some of them -in such small quantity as to have no appreciable effect. Now, had you -seen the quantities of stewed mushrooms swallowed at a single meal which -I have seen thus devoured, and with no more harm than from the same -amount of oyster or turtle soup, I think you would be forced to the -conclusion that such an amount, even of poisonous infinitesimals, must -have had some very unpleasant manifestations, or else be a very innocent -diet. - -"It is said that the sale of the pink gill (_A. campestris_) is -forbidden in the Italian markets, because that species has often proved -to be poisonous. May not this have been occasioned by ignorant and -careless collectors or by worthless inspectors? To us in America, who -use this species so freely and fearlessly, the Italian's curse, 'May he -die of a Pratiolo!' would have no more terror than 'May he die of -aromatic pain.' - -"Our best and standard mushrooms are the pink-gill (_A. campestris_); -snowball (_A. arvensis_); peach-kernel (_A. amygdalinus_); nut (_A. -procerus_); French (_A. prunulus_); morel (_M. esculenta_); coral -(_Clavaria_); and omelette (_Lycoperdon giganteum_). These are almost -universally in high esteem. Yet tastes differ on these things as on -fruits and vegetables; some putting one, some another, at the head of -the list, though fond of all and ever ready to use any of them--as one -who prefers a peach may yet relish an apple. There are some among us who -regard _A. procerus_ as fully equal to _A. campestris_, and I am almost -of the same opinion. When broiled or fried it truly makes a luscious -morsel. I mention in this connexion, that this species here bears the -name of nut mushroom, from a quality that I do not find mentioned in the -books which describe it. The stem when fresh and young has a sweet nutty -flavour, very similar to that of the hazel nut. Is this the case with -you? Its flavour is so agreeable that I am fond of chewing the fresh -stems. From this peculiarity in connexion with its movable ring, its -form and colours, I deem it a perfectly safe species to recommend for -collecting. We have no species likely to be mistaken for it, except _A. -rachodes_, and I fully tested the innocence of this before commending -the first to others. This has been suspected by some, but I have found -it harmless. Though pretty well flavoured, it is not comparable with _A. -procerus_, and the flesh is so thin and spongy that no one would choose -it when those of more compact texture are to be had. _A. excoriatus_, of -the same group, is a much preferable species. - -"The Morel is one of my greatest favourites, but this is not found in -quantity except in calcareous districts. A few days since (April 21) I -had a dozen for supper, the largest number I ever had at one time. - -"The _Lycoperdon giganteum_ is also a great favourite with me, as it is, -indeed, with all my acquaintances who have tried it. It has not the high -aroma of some others, but it has a delicacy of flavour that makes it -superior to any omelette I have ever eaten. It seems, furthermore, to be -so digestible as to adapt it to the most delicate stomachs. This is the -South Down of mushrooms. - -"In this latitude (about 36 degrees) we can find good mushrooms for the -table during nine or ten months of the year. Including _A. salignus_, -which some are quite fond of, we can have them in every month, as this -species comes out during any warm spell in winter. _A. campestris_ makes -its appearance here as early as March, but is not in full crop until -September. Several excellent species of the _Tricholoma_ group do not -spring up until after frost sets in, and continue into December. Such is -the case too with _Boletus collinitus_, which sometimes emerges from the -earth frozen solid. - -"These observations and experiences are confined chiefly to the -Carolinas; though I presume, from casual observations elsewhere, and -from information derived from correspondents in other States, that, -making some allowance for difference of climate and length of seasons, -what I have said is generally applicable to the whole country." - - -_Why we should not eat Funguses._ - -The following interesting paper from the Rev. J. D. La Touche was read -at a meeting of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club:-- - -"It is said that at Rome, when a mortal is about to be raised to the -dignity of sainthood, the precaution is taken of providing a 'devil's -advocate,' who, by pointing out as strongly as he can all the faults of -the candidate, secures the fair discussion of both sides of the -question, and is a guarantee, moreover, that no unworthy aspirant to -such exalted honours should be rashly admitted to them. - -"On the present occasion I make bold to present myself in this unamiable -capacity. No member, indeed, of this respected Club is seeking -canonization, yet, a step not less important is contemplated in the -enrolment of a hitherto despised and even abhorred member of the -vegetable kingdom among the list of its edible products; indeed, some -may consider such a step as of more importance to our race than the -apotheosis of a peccant mortal; and therefore it would appear that, if -in the one instance it is desirable that all the peccadilloes of the -candidate should be exposed, _a fortiori_, it must be so in the other. - -"Let me, then, first observe that these gentlemen at the bar have -actually a very bad character, and that it is not likely that this would -be the case unless they were really great sinners. - -"Here, some will exclaim, no doubt, 'Prejudice, my dear sir! vulgar -prejudice is capable of the grossest injustice--ignorant prejudice has -driven from our tables a delicious article of food, and deprived the -poor of a wholesome diet.' It is often said that he was a brave man who -first ate an oyster, and truly a more uninviting mouthful than it was -could scarcely be imagined; and yet the fact that it _is_ good and -wholesome soon disposed of any prejudice against it. And is it not -likely that such would be the case, were the fungus tribe fit for human -food? Can we suppose any prejudice arising from their leathery looks -would not evaporate like mists before the morning sun, were they really -the nutritious and delicious dainties they are described to be by their -enthusiastic advocates? - -"I think it may be observed that the general character which a man bears -is, on the whole, a true one. That big school, the world in which we -live, contrives, in some way or other, to hit off pretty accurately our -average merit and take our measure, and though it may make a mistake now -and then in some particular instance, its general estimate is a fair -one; and so with funguses. There may be a too-sweeping condemnation of -all kinds of them: nay, it may be even probable that _Agaricus -campestris_ is not the best that grows, and yet, after all, the -prevalent distrust of the tribe is well founded. - -"When, _e.g._, some family in a parish is known to have been poisoned by -eating a wrong sort, it is not surprising, nor can it be called stupid -prejudice, if their neighbours are ever after rather shy of the article -of food which produced that result. But it will be said that the -mischief arose from ignorance--had that family known the marks that -distinguish between the wholesome and the poisonous kinds this would -never have taken place. If ever there was a case in which ignorance was -bliss, surely this is it. A short time ago, I accompanied a scientific -friend in a foray among the funguses, which we made with a special view -to the improvement of our intended repast, and was on that occasion -struck with the elaborate precautions which seemed to be necessary to -observe in discriminating the good from the bad. It would almost seem -that Nature had purposely contrived a labyrinth of ingenious -stumbling-blocks to guard this mysterious product from the insatiable -appetites of mankind; and so it came to pass after all, my good -friend--who really seemed well up in the subject, and who found at every -turn some well-known test of wholesomeness or otherwise to guide him in -the specimens we collected--wound up the day by nearly poisoning a -member of my family: for he had, it appears, mistaken _Boletus flavus_, -a violent poison, for the very similar but wholesome and excellent -_Boletus luteus_--the only difference being that the pores of the one -are somewhat smaller and less angular than those of the other. Surely, -in this instance, knowledge (and it was not in his case a little -knowledge either) was a dangerous thing. - -"But still it may be said that there are species the characters of which -are sufficiently well-defined, and that from these, at least, the -stigma ought to be removed. But even so, I would submit one or two -questions to those who may be inclined to admit this. 1st. Is it so -clear that a fungus which agrees with one person may not be very -injurious to another? One man has, to use a vulgar expression, the -stomach of a horse. Can I, an average mortal, calculate on possessing -such a treasure? I saw with my own eyes my scientific friend eat and -swallow an entire _Boletus flavus_, raw, without any apparent bad -effects either that evening or the following day, whereas a small -portion of the same kind, cooked too (I cannot, however, say _secundum -artem_), produced violent sickness on another individual, who, moreover, -had never before experienced sickness; indeed, this fact would seem to -suggest that the stomach may be 'educated' by long habit to bear this -noxious food, and, therefore, that its evil effects (harmless upon -organs well trained) happen when the _experimentum in corpore vili_ is -tried. My friend assures me that he has eaten the highly poisonous -_Boletus satanas_ with no worse effect than a little indigestion the -next morning. Can, I would ask, the experience of such a seasoned -digestive apparatus as his be any guide to those who have not gone -through the course of training which he has? - -"Again, may it not be possible that the same kind of fungus which in -some instances is wholesome, may, if grown under different -circumstances, and supplied with different nutriment, assume very -different properties? And again, are we competent to judge of the -wholesomeness of a particular article of food unless it is tried by a -very large number of persons--unless it be 'exhibited,' to use a medical -term, on a great variety of constitutions? Indeed, is there not some -ground for thinking that such an exhibition would be in many instances -far from satisfactory? - -"On the whole, it would appear that the advice of an eminent physician, -an ardent admirer of the fungus, was good and sound. When he heard of -the escape my family had on this occasion, he said that this article of -diet should be partaken of with 'great caution.' And by the way, is not -this itself a very suspicious expression? 'Great caution!' If I am -introduced to a gentleman, and told at the same time that I must conduct -myself towards him with 'great caution' or he will probably do me some -deadly mischief, it would hardly be thought a very hearty and promising -introduction; yet here we are told that this excellent family to which -we are so warmly introduced has some members belonging to it so -villanously disposed, that possibly we may pay for our acquaintance with -our lives. This is not very encouraging, and so the course adopted by a -young lady who indulges in these experiments, to whom I was speaking the -other day, would seem to be a very prudent one. She says she never -partakes of these dainties till she has seen the effect they have had -upon somebody else! But even so, only picture the ghastly scene which a -banquet of this kind would present; each guest looking anxiously into -his neighbour's face, awaiting in terror the contortions which are to -show that he has partaken of the fatal dish." - -While Mr. La Touche's paper should not deter us from using and showing -others the value of the quantities of _edible_ fungi now generally -allowed to rot in our fields and woods, and nowhere perhaps so abundant -as in the pleasure grounds and woods round country seats, yet, as -impressing the necessity of using due discrimination in gathering, it -may be read with advantage by all. - - - - -INDEX. - - - PAGE - - AGARICUS amygdalinus, 147 - " arvensis, 98 - " Cæsareus, 97, 152 - " cæspitosus (Lentinus), 149 - " campestris, 95 - " cylindricus, 118 - " excoriatus, 114 - " fimetarius, 118 - " frumentaceus, 148 - " gambosus, 121 - " melleus, 149 - " nebularis, 127 - " orcella, 141 - " procerus, 113 - " prunulus, 143 - " rachodes, 114 - " rubescens, 125 - " salignus, 153 - " typhoides, 118 - " villaticus, 100 - - "Agaric of civilization", 119 - - American Edible Fungi, 145 - - Arches, Mushroom culture in, 47 - - - BOLETUS collinitus, 149 - " flavidus, 149 - " flavus, 163 - " luteus, 163 - " satanas, 164 - - Bricks, mushroom-spawn in, 25 - - Brown Warty Agaric, 125 - - - CANTHARELLUS cibarius, 137 - - Cave-culture of mushrooms, 57 - - Cellars, mushroom culture in, 51 - - Champignonniste at Montrouge, 57 - - Chantarelle, 137 - - Clavaria, 158 - - Clouded Mushroom, 127 - - Common Mushrooms, 95 - " how to cook the, 102 - - Coprinus comatus, 117 - - Coral Mushroom, 158 - - Covering for Mushroom-beds, 34 - " advantageous to Mushroom crop, 87 - - Cucumber frames, Mushroom culture in, 56 - - - FAIRY-RING Champignon, 108 - - Fermentation of manure, how prevented, 16 - - Floor of Mushroom-house, 3, 5 - - French mode of preparing manure, 16 - " Mushroom-caves, 57, 71 - " Mushroom-spawn, 28 - - Forsyth's Mushroom-house, 7 - - Frogmore, Mushroom-house at, 5 - - - GARDENS and fields, Mushroom culture in, 77 - - Gardens about London, Mushroom culture in, 78 - - Greenhouses, Mushroom culture in, 53 - - - HABITATS of the wild Mushroom, 90 - - Heating of the Mushroom-house, 6 - - Hedgehog Mushroom, 139 - - Horse Mushroom, 98 - - Hydnum repandum, 139 - - Hygrophorus pratensis, 135 - " psittacinus, 136 - " virgineus, 135 - " niveus, 136 - - - IRON injurious to Mushrooms, 74 - - - LACTARIUS deliciosus, 129 - " piperatus, 150 - " torminosus (necator), 130 - - Lawns, Mushroom culture not desirable on, 93 - - Lycoperdon giganteum, 159 - - - MANED Agaric, the, 117 - - Manure, preparation of, 13 - " Mr. Early's method of preparing, 14 - " Mr. Barnes's " , 14 - " Frogmore " , 15 - " how prepared by London market-gardeners, 15 - " how kept from fermenting, 16 - " French mode of preparing, 16 - " summary of directions for preparing, 17 - - Marasmius oreades, 108 - " urens, 109 - - Mill-track Mushroom-spawn, 27 - - Montrouge, Mushroom-caves at, 57 - - Morchella esculenta, 130 - - Morel, the, 130 - - Mouceron or mousseron, 123, 143 - - Mushroom-beds, materials for, 13 - " " of sawdust, 19 - " " of leaves and loam, 19, 21 - " " of street-sweepings, &c., 19 - " " chief point to be observed in making, 21 - " " best time for making, 21 - " " depth of, 18 - " " in a stable, 30 - " " covering for, 34 - " " how to reduce the heat of, 34 - " " how to ascertain the heat of, 34 - " " how to spawn properly, 35 - " " soil for earthing, 37 - " " the watering of, 38 - " " vermin in, 39 - " " treatment of old, 41, 46 - " " temperature of, 33, 79 - " " soil for covering, 79 - " caves, contrivance for watering beds in, 75 - " " " for making beds in, 75 - " " localities of, 75 - " " depth of, 18, 76 - " " immense extent of, 76 - " " at Montrouge, 57 - " " description of soil used in, 61 - " " daily produce of, 62 - " " appearance of beds in, 61 - " " kind of manure used in, 65 - " " difficulty in visiting, 65 - " " at Frépillon, account of, 66 - " " " extent of beds in, 66 - " " " plan of, 68 - " " " appearance of beds in, 70 - " " " daily produce of, 66, 70 - " " preparation of manure in, 71 - " " " of spawn in, 73 - " crop, how to gather, 42 - " culture in a shed, 45 - " " in arches, 47 - " " in stables, 49 - " " in cellars, 51 - " " in bottoms of old casks, 52 - " " in cold greenhouses, 53 - " " under stages in glass-houses, 55 - " " in cucumber or melon frames, 56 - " " in caves near Paris, 57 - " " open-air in Parisian market gardens, 80 - " " in gardens among other crops, 84 - " " in gardens and fields, 77 - " " in summer, 77 - " " in gardens at Earl's Court, 78 - " " on lawns not desirable, 93 - " " in pastures, &c., 88 - " growing in open-air, Mr. Ayres's account of, 85 - - Mushrooms dislike coal and iron, 74 - " " tar, 48 - - Mushroom-house, chief requirement in the construction of, 2 - " " at back of hothouses, 2 - " " floor of, 3, 5 - " " without artificial heat, 4 - " " with slate or tiled roof, 4 - " " with thatched roof, 5 - " " condition of air in, 4 - " " at Frogmore, 5 - " " how secured from damp, 5, 6 - " " best position for, 6 - " " how heated, 6 - " " used for forcing and blanching vegetables, 6 - " " under shed (Forsyth's), 7 - " " best kind of shelves for, 7 - " " at Stoke Place, 8 - " " against wall, best roof for, 9 - " " proper width of, 9 - " " Russian (Oldacre's), 10 - " " ventilation of, 5, 7, 9 - " " with brick arched inner roof, 9 - " " with close-bottomed shelves, 9 - " " shelves of cast-iron grating for, 11 - " " necessity of cleaning, 42 - " " temperature of, 33 - " spawn, what it is, 23 - " " how obtained in the first instance, 24 - " " "natural" or "virgin", 24 - " " how to preserve, 25 - " " in bricks, 25 - " " " " recipes for making, 26 - " " mill-track, 27 - " " French, 28 - " " how to save the expense of purchasing, 29 - " " French, experiment with, 30 - - Mushrooms not produced by chance, 89 - " quantities exported from France, 64 - - - NUT Mushroom, 158 - - - OLDACRE'S mushroom-house, 10 - - Old mushroom-beds, treatment of, 41 - - Omelette, 158 - - Open-air culture of Mushrooms at Paris, 80 - - Orange-milk Mushroom, 129 - - Orgelle, 141 - - - PASTURES, how to introduce Mushrooms into, 92 - - Parasol Agaric, 113 - - Peach-kernel Mushroom, 158 - - Pink-gill Mushroom, 158 - - Places in which Mushrooms may be grown, 1 - - Plum Mushroom, 143 - - Polyporus Berkelei, 150 - " confluens, 150 - " frondosus, 150 - " ovinus, 149 - " poripes, 149 - " sulfureus, 150 - - Pratiolo, 97, 158 - - - RAIN, injurious to mushroom-crop, 87 - - Red-fleshed Mushroom, 125 - - Roof of mushroom-house, 4, 5 - - Russian mushroom-house, 10 - - - SAWDUST for mushroom-beds, 19 - - Scaly Mushroom, 113 - - Shed, mushroom-house under, 7 - " mushroom culture in, 45 - - Shelves of mushroom-house, 7 - " cast-iron grating for, 11 - - Snowball Mushroom, 158 - - Soil for earthing mushroom-beds, 37 - - Spawn, how to prepare without expense, 91 - - Spinaroli, 123 - - Spine-bearing Mushroom, 139 - - Stables, mushroom culture in, 49 - - Stoke Place, mushroom-house at, 8 - - Street-sweepings for mushroom-beds, 19 - - St. George's Mushroom, 121 - - Summer cultivation of Mushrooms, 77 - - - TAR, Mushrooms' dislike of, 48 - - Temperature of mushroom-beds, 33 - " of mushroom-house, 33 - - - VEGETABLE Sweetbread, 141 - - Ventilation of mushroom-house, 5, 7, 9 - - Vermin in mushroom-beds, 39 - - "Virgin" mushroom-spawn, 24 - - Viscid White Mushroom, 135 - - - WATERING of mushroom-beds, the, 38 - - "Why should we not eat Funguses", 160 - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Missing periods and quotation marks have been supplied where obviously -required. All other original errors and inconsistencies have been -retained, except as follows: - - Page 106: medium-sized changed to medium-size - (or so of medium-size, place two) - Page 123: Stafora changed to Staffora - (the valley of Staffora, near Bobbio,) - Page 138: Cantharelle changed to Chantarelle - (dressing the Chantarelle are) - Page 165: person--sunless changed to persons--unless - (number of persons--unless it be) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mushroom Culture, by W. 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You may copy it, give it away or -re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included -with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org - - -Title: Mushroom Culture - Its Extension and Improvement - -Author: W. Robinson - -Release Date: October 6, 2012 [EBook #40952] - -Language: English - -Character set encoding: ASCII - -*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MUSHROOM CULTURE *** - - - - -Produced by Peter Vachuska, Rosanna Murphy, Dave Morgan -and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at -http://www.pgdp.net - - - - - -Transcriber's Note: Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. -An upside-down V in the original text is denoted by [V]. -A list of amendments is at the end of the text. - - - - - The Country Series - OF - FARM, GARDEN, AND RURAL BOOKS FOR GENERAL USE, - - PUBLISHED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF - W. ROBINSON, F.L.S., - -_Founder of "The Garden," "Farm and Home," and "Gardening Illustrated;" -Horticultural Editor of "The Field;" Author of "The Parks and Gardens of -Paris," "Alpine Flowers for English Gardens," "The Wild Garden," "Hardy -Flowers," &c._ - - - - - MUSHROOM CULTURE - - ITS - - _EXTENSION AND IMPROVEMENT_ - - -[Illustration: MOUTH OF MUSHROOM-CAVE NEAR PARIS] - -[Illustration: BOTTOM OF SHAFT OF MUSHROOM-CAVE] - - - - - MUSHROOM CULTURE - - ITS - - _EXTENSION AND IMPROVEMENT_ - - - BY - W. ROBINSON, F.L.S. - - AUTHOR OF - _"The Parks and Gardens of Paris," "Alpine Flowers," &c._ - - - WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS - - - NEW YORK - GEORGE ROUTLEDGE AND SONS - NO. 9 LAFAYETTE PLACE - LONDON, GLASGOW AND MANCHESTER - - - - -PREFACE. - - -MY reasons for writing this book are: First, that Mushroom Culture is -but little practised in this country compared to the extent to which it -ought to be, considering the abundance of the necessary materials in all -parts of these islands, both in town and country, and the high -estimation in which the Mushroom is held. I now refer to ordinary -Mushroom Culture as practised in our best private gardens. I believe it -possible and desirable to extend this, the only phase of the Culture -that can be called popular, in a tenfold degree, and that every place in -which a gardener and horses are kept should be abundantly supplied with -Mushrooms throughout the greater part of the year. Secondly, that -although Mushroom Culture as usually practised is perfectly well known -to good cultivators, a simpler and fuller account of it than has yet -appeared in any English book on the subject is desirable for the -unpractised amateur and cultivator. Thirdly, that Mushroom Culture is at -present confined to a too narrow groove; and a belief that the general -gardening public should have a broad and clear idea of the several ways -in which they may procure abundance of excellent Mushrooms with very -trifling expense. Even many of the best private growers never think of -it except as illustrated on their comparatively small beds in small -houses. I believe that if the knowledge of how easily and in how many -ways they may be grown, apart from the usual mode, were sufficiently -spread, it would lead to the production of many times our present -supply. Fourthly, a desire to introduce to this and other countries the -system of Mushroom Culture on a very large scale carried on in caverns -beneath the environs of Paris, which caverns I visited in 1868. - -To these reasons I might add a wish to call attention to the waste of -money for Mushroom-spawn that now occurs in nearly every garden. There -is not the slightest necessity for this. In every garden where Mushrooms -are grown abundance of spawn may be made. Mr. W. P. AYRES writes lately -to tell me that in a great midland garden where the spawn bill used to -amount to 18_l._ or 19_l._ a year, by saving the spawn as the Parisian -growers do, all expense for this article is abolished. - -I do not attempt to praise or even duly weigh the merits of the -Mushroom--that could only be adequately done by the immortal -BRILLAT-SAVARIN. He, however, seems to have somewhat neglected this most -precious of _legumes_. None but his serious soul could have approached -the subject with the necessary solemnity. Nobody but he who first saw -the deep dangers of hurried, thoughtless, and irreverent feeding, could -have done justice to its exquisite flavour when in the best condition, -or could have explained how deliciously it combined the virtues of herb -and flesh, unspeakably superior to either. Let us, in passing, quote one -of his aphorisms, contributed to form the _base eternelle a la science_: -"_La decouverte d'un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre -humain que la decouverte d'une etoile!_" - -Now, I do not hesitate to say that the introduction of the Mushroom into -our domestic economy in as great a degree as we have it in our power to -produce it, would practically be the addition of a new agent in our -_cuisine_, second to none for its delicacy, and unsurpassed for utility. -It is true the Mushroom is plentiful in its season, but it is with us, -at all seasons when it is not to be gathered in the open air, a luxury -to numbers of owners of gardens who have means to grow it. As for the -much larger class who ought to be supplied from our markets, they seldom -see or taste a Mushroom except when these occur in profusion in our -fields, though every cart of stable-manure produced in this great -horse-keeping country may, on its way towards decomposition and -replenishing the earth, be made a nidus for furnishing many dishes of -them. - -The illustrations showing the cave-culture of mushrooms are from my -"Parks, Promenades, and Gardens of Paris." And the frontispiece is after -two large cuts of the mushroom caves of Paris, which appeared in the -_Illustrated London News_ some time after the appearance of my work. The -illustrations of edible fungi are by Mr. WORTHINGTON G. SMITH, who knows -and draws these interesting subjects so thoroughly well; and the other -figures are by Mr. HODGKIN. - -[Illustration] - - - - -CONTENTS. - - - PAGE - - WHERE MUSHROOMS MAY BE GROWN 1 - - CHAPTER I. - - MUSHROOM CULTURE IN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE 2 - - CHAPTER II. - - THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS, ETC. 13 - - CHAPTER III. - - MUSHROOM-SPAWN 23 - - CHAPTER IV. - - SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT 33 - - CHAPTER V. - - CULTURE IN SHEDS, CELLARS, ARCHES, OUTHOUSES, AND ALL - ENCLOSED STRUCTURES OTHER THAN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE 43 - - CHAPTER VI. - - THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS, NEAR PARIS 57 - - CHAPTER VII. - - CULTURE ON PREPARED BEDS IN THE OPEN AIR IN GARDENS AND - FIELDS 77 - - CHAPTER VIII. - - CULTURE IN GARDENS, ETC., WITH OTHER CROPS IN THE OPEN AIR 84 - - CHAPTER IX. - - MUSHROOM CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC. 88 - - CHAPTER X. - - THE COMMON MUSHROOMS 95 - - CHAPTER XI. - - MODES OF COOKING THE COMMON MUSHROOMS 102 - - CHAPTER XII. - - SOME OF THE MOST COMMON AND USEFUL EDIBLE FUNGI 108 - - - - -MUSHROOM CULTURE. - - - - -WHERE MUSHROOMS MAY BE GROWN. - - -THE places in which mushrooms can be grown may be roughly grouped as -follows:--1. In the mushroom-house proper. 2. In sheds, cellars, -out-houses, stables, railway-arches, &c. 3. In deep caves, like those -near Paris, described further on. 4. In the open air, in gardens or -fields, on prepared beds. 5. In gardens, among various crops, without -any preparation beyond inserting the spawn. 6. In pastures where the -mushroom is not already established. - -To these I might add another group, illustrated by the case of a Belgian -cook who grew a dish of mushrooms in a pair of old wooden shoes; but -practically we can treat of nearly every possible mode of growing the -mushroom under the above headings. - - - - -CHAPTER I. - -MUSHROOM CULTURE IN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE. - - -[Illustration: Fig. 1. Mushroom-house at back of hothouses.] - -CULTURE in the mushroom-house being the most practised, and, on the -whole, the most important phase of the subject, we will first treat of -it. And first of the mushroom-house itself. Its construction is very -simple: the conditions to be obtained are equable temperature, secured -by thick or hollow walls and by a double roof. Figure 1 shows a house -designed for me by Mr. Ormson, the well-known horticultural builder. - -It is situated at the back of the hothouses, where a flow and return -pipe can be run through for artificial heat. The shelves for making the -beds upon are of slate 11/2 in. thick, or of stone 21/2 in. thick, -built into the walls, and into brick piers built in cement. Upright -slates, to slide in grooves, are placed along the front of the shelves -to keep the beds in. - -[Illustration: Fig. 2. Ground-plan of preceding.] - -The floor may be of paving tiles, or bricks, laid on concrete: a -skylight or two may be fixed in the roof, for the purpose of admitting a -little light, and air when necessary. The engraving (fig. 2), shows a -house of this description, 12 feet wide by 20 feet long, inside measure, -but, of course, the length may be extended as circumstances may -require. - -As it is of importance in mushroom-growing that the air of the house -should be kept moderately moist, the underside of a slate or tile roof -should be lathed and plastered. - -[Illustration: Fig. 3. View of unheated mushroom-house.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 4. Section of preceding figure.] - -Figure 3 represents a mushroom-house suitable for people of small means, -or those who cannot adopt plan No. 1. It is designed with a view to -growing mushrooms during the greater part of the year, without the aid -of artificial heat. To this end it is constructed in such a way as not -to be affected by changes of the external temperature, as will be seen -by the engraving. The walls are hollow, and banked round with the soil -excavated from the interior. The roof is thatched with reeds, and the -ends stud-work, lined inside with boards, and outside with split larch -poles: the cavity to be filled with sawdust or cut straw; a small -diamond-shaped ventilator, hung on pivots, to be fixed in each end. The -floor may be of concrete, or burnt clay well rammed; and the beds are -retained in their place by boards nailed to good oak posts. Care should -be taken to put in efficient drains, so that no stagnant damp may exist -about the building. - -[Illustration: Fig. 5. Section of mushroom-house at Frogmore.] - -Though the preceding cuts show how we may best attain our object, a few -more illustrations of mushroom-houses are desirable here. Figures 5 and -6 exhibit the plan of the mushroom-houses at Frogmore, obligingly -communicated by Mr. Rose. - -[Illustration: Fig. 6. Ground-plan of mushroom-house at Frogmore.] - -It need hardly be said that in such large mushroom-houses rhubarb and -sea-kale may be easily forced, and barbe de capucin, endive, &c. -blanched. - -A small hot-water apparatus, with a 3-inch flow and return pipe, affords -the best means of heating a mushroom-house which is not so situated that -it may be heated from the boilers of adjacent hothouses. The best -position for the mushroom-house is against a north wall. The usual -precautions for guarding against damp walls and floor should be adopted -in the case of the mushroom-house, and the walls should be hollow. - -Forsyth's mushroom-house is described by the designer in Loudon's -_Gardener's Magazine_. Fig. 7 is a transverse section, showing the -arches under and over the beds, the thoroughfare _a_ is the middle, and -the position of the hot-water pipes, _c_; _b_ is an open shed and -general workshop, the receptacle of everything requiring protection, and -too clumsy to be otherwise housed. - -[Illustration: Fig. 7. Mushroom-house under shed.] - -A shed of this description is an indispensable adjunct to every -well-ordered garden, and in the present case it serves as a roof to the -mushroom-house. In the centre of each vault, shown in fig. 7, a circular -ventilator, _d_, 9 in. in diameter, should be made, having a stone and -cast-iron stopper, with a folding ring. The whole roof of the -mushroom-house is covered over with pavement, which at the same time -forms the floor of the shed above. Mr. Forsyth objects to cast-iron -shelves "on account of the rust, and to slate shelves, as being cold and -damp, and therefore not suitable to the purpose;" but he knows of no -objection to shelves built of bricks and mortar, kerbed with hewn stone -3 in. wide, and clamped together with lead. - -[Illustration: Fig. 8. Mushroom-house at Stoke Place.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 9.] - -The annexed diagrams (figs. 8 and 9) exhibit the mushroom-houses used at -Stoke Place, both for summer and winter use, as described by Macintosh -in the "Book of the Garden." "Of course the former is not heated; the -latter is, by 4-inch hot-water pipes, which are brought from a boiler -constructed to heat at the same time a range of pits for pines, melons, -&c., 89 feet long and 7 feet wide. The shelves are close-bottomed to -prevent the beds from drying too rapidly, and to require less watering, -which Mr. Patrick thinks a very important precaution in mushroom -culture. Ventilation is effected by a slide in the door, and a wooden -trunk up through the arch and roof, with a slide in it also. We do not -exactly see the motive of Mr. Patrick, whom we have long known and -esteemed as one of the best gardeners in England, in adopting the span -roof over this house, as, from its situation behind the garden wall, a -lean-to roof would have been cheaper and carried off the rain-water -better. It is rather a novel, but still a good plan, to have the inner -roof constructed of a brick arch, as it will of course save the outer -one from decay, to which all mushroom-house roofs are liable more than -any other kind of garden building. This house struck us at first sight -as very complete, excepting in breadth. We should increase it to 9 -feet--that is, 3 feet for the breadth of the beds on each side, and the -same for the footpath, which at present is inconveniently narrow." - -[Illustration: Fig. 10. Russian mushroom-house.] - -The Russian mushroom-house (fig. 10) is thus described by Mr. Oldacre, -in the _Horticultural Society's Transactions_, vol. ii. first series. -"The outside walls should be 81/2 feet high for four heights of beds, -and 61/2 for three heights, and 10 feet wide inside the walls. This is -the most convenient width, as it admits of shelves 31/2 feet wide on -each side, and affords a space through the middle of the house 3 feet -wide, for a double flue and a walk upon it." Hot-water pipes were not in -use when this house was erected. "The walls should be 9 inches thick, -and the length of the house as may be judged necessary. When the outside -of the house is built, place a ceiling over it (as high as the top of -the walls) of boards 1 inch thick, and plaster it on the upper side with -road sand well wrought together, 1 inch thick, (this will be found -superior to lime), leaving square trunks, _f_, in the ceiling 9 inches -in width, up the middle of the house, at 6 feet distance from each -other, with slides, _s_, under them, to admit and take off air when -necessary. This being done, erect two single-brick walls, _v v_, each -five bricks high, at the distance of 31/2 feet from the outside walls, -to hold up the sides of the lower beds, _a a_, and form one side of the -air-flue, _t u t u_, leaving 3 feet up the middle, _t x t_, of the house -for the floor. Upon these walls, _v v_, lay planks, _t u_, 41/2 inches -wide and 3 inches thick, in which to mortise the standards, _t k_, which -support the shelves. These standards should be 31/2 inches square, and -placed 4 feet 6 inches asunder, and fastened at the top to the ceiling -joists. When the standards are set up, fix the cross-bearers, _i n i n_, -that are to support the shelves, _o o_, mortising one end of each into -the standards, _n_, the other into the walls, _i_. The first set of -bearers should be 2 feet from the floor, and each succeeding set 2 feet -from that below it. Having thus fixed the uprights, _t k_, and bearers, -_i n_, at such a height as the building will admit, proceed to form the -shelves, _o o_, with boards 11/2 inches thick, observing to place a -board, _d d_, 8 inches broad and 1 inch thick, in the front of each -shelf, to support the front of the beds. Fasten this board on the -outside standards, that the width of the beds may not be diminished. The -shelves being completed, the next thing to be done is the construction -of the flue (_p_ in section), which should commence at the end of the -house next to the door, run parallel to the shelves all the length of -the house, and return back to the fireplace, where the chimney should be -built; the sides of the flue inside to be of the height of four bricks -laid flatways, and 6 inches wide, which will make the width of the flues -15 inches from outside to outside, and leave a cavity, _t u_, on each -side betwixt the flue and the walls that are under the shelves, and one, -_x y_, up the middle, betwixt the flues, 2 inches wide, to admit the -heat into the house from the sides of the flues." The introduction of -this form of house by Mr. Oldacre has led to much improvement in our -mushroom culture. The first house of this kind erected in England, was -built at Shipley, near Derby, in the garden of E. M. Mundy, Esq., by the -father of Mr. W. P. Ayres, whose name will be found frequently mentioned -in this work. There brick arches were formed for the shelves, and though -built more than half a century ago, the house is still in good -condition. - -Although slate is generally used for the shelves, the adoption of -cast-iron gratings for this purpose is well worth a trial, as by this -means we may be enabled to cut mushrooms from the under as well as the -upper side of the bed. - - - - -CHAPTER II - -THE PREPARATION OF THE MATERIALS, ETC. - - -BEFORE we deal with the various ways of growing the mushroom, we will -speak of the preparation of the material. As stable manure not only -furnishes the nutriment, but forms the very soil in which mushrooms are -produced artificially, and also supplies the heat which enables us to -grow them to perfection at all seasons, by far the most important point -connected with their culture is the management of this. It is very -simple, but frequently, even by excellent gardeners, considered to -require much more trouble and nicety than is really necessary. For -example, it is quite common in good gardens to see the droppings -collected carefully in some shed, or in the mushroom-house, and turned -over almost as tenderly and carefully as the contents of the fruit-room. -Good mushrooms are well worth this trouble; but, as it is quite -unnecessary, it should not be done except in special cases. - -To show the diversity of opinion among excellent mushroom-growers as to -the preparation of the manure, I will quote a few of our most -trustworthy authorities on the subject. Mr. W. Early, in "How to Grow -Mushrooms," lays great stress on the importance of gathering the -droppings in a dry state. "Every advantage should be taken of -opportunities of securing and placing them in any open shed, or other -similar position, where they can be effectually sheltered from rains. In -such a place, whilst the process of collecting is going on, every -portion should be spread loosely over the floor, in moderate sized -ridges, or in any other manner that will allow the air to get amongst it -to assist in drying. It should also be tossed over or turned, and -lightened up daily for the same purpose, until a sufficiency is gathered -together for immediate use." - -This may be taken as a sample of the practice very extensively followed -in this country. Happily, we have excellent mushroom growers who succeed -without all this trouble, as the following remarks of Mr. J. Barnes will -show:--"For the last thirty years I have made my beds entirely on the -floor in sheds, wheeling in the stable dung as it is brought fresh from -the stable, adding a fourth, or a little more than a fourth, of good -friable loam, mixing both well together, pressing firmly down, and -letting it remain about a week or so untouched. At the end of that time -we turn it over, and if we consider it in too strong a state of -fermentation we add a little more soil, and then tread down firmly. -Very soon the bed is ready to be spawned, and encased in a couple of -inches of soil; and in this way we get the finest crops of mushrooms, -the beds remaining a long time in bearing. After the beds have been some -time, say from six to twelve weeks, in bearing, and begin to get dry, -and cease to bear well, we water them thoroughly with very clear liquid -manure, made from sheep or deer or cow manure, which seems to start them -again into bearing, and then we manage to keep some of the beds in -bearing for many months at a time." In the _Field_, Dec. 22, 1868, I -stated that the manure for the mushroom-beds in the Royal Gardens, -Frogmore, was not prepared in any elaborate way, but simply taken from a -great heap fermenting in the yard, any parts of it that had become white -from heat being moistened with water, and the whole being mixed with -about a fourth part of loam. Mr. Cuthill, an authority on mushroom -culture, tells us how the London market gardeners manage with their -manure. As the material is brought home from the London stables, the -short part is taken out of it, and the long litter is kept for the -purpose of covering, as well as for forming the interior of ridges; for -all mushroom-beds out of doors are made into ridges. The manure is not -allowed to heat before it is put into the beds, if that can be -prevented; for previously heated material does not produce such fine -mushrooms. The fresher the horse-dung is, the longer the crop will last -and every gardener who makes up beds with unheated droppings knows how -superior they are to fermented manure. - -In his own practice Mr. C. depended a good deal on heavy tramping to -"keep down fermentation" when droppings were used in a fresh state. The -French, who are great mushroom growers, allow the manure to heat first, -but treat it very simply. They prepare it in the open air, first -removing any pieces of wood or other extraneous matter that may have -been mixed with it, and then place it long and short in beds two feet -thick, or a little more, pressing it with the fork. When this is done, -the mass or bed is well stamped, then thoroughly watered, and finally -again pressed down by stamping. It is left in this state for eight or -ten days, by which time it has begun to ferment, after which the bed -ought to be well turned over and re-made on the same place, care being -taken to place the manure that was near the sides at first towards the -centre in the turning and re-making. The mass is now left for another -ten days or so, at the end of which time the manure is about in proper -condition for making the beds, either in the open air or in the caves. -Sometimes it receives three turnings over, especially when the manure is -long, and it occupies altogether about six weeks in preparation. As the -wide heaps are turned over by the men, a water-cart remains alongside, -and any portions of the mass that are dry and white from heat are -moistened with water from a rose watering pot. This preparation shortens -and mollifies the longer material considerably, mixes the mass well, and -it is transferred to the caves in a slightly decomposed, well mixed, and -moist, but not wet, condition. The French do not actually hammer or -desperately tramp down the beds, as nearly all our writers on mushroom -culture recommend, but press it pretty firmly; and I have seen as good -crops on their light spongy beds as ever I have on those so firmly -tramped down. I might give other striking instances of the diversity of -opinion on this subject, but it is needless to multiply them. - -My conclusions respecting the preparation of the manure for mushrooms -are as follows:--1. That very careful preparation and frequent turning -over of the manure undercover are not necessary to success, and that it -is quite needless to prepare the manure under cover, except when it is -gathered in a very small quantity, so that a heavy rain or snow would -saturate it. Where, however, the culture is pursued on a very small -scale, and, it may be, only one bed made, it is best to keep it in a -covered shed. 2. That carefully picked droppings are not essential, -though they may be more convenient. Excellent crops are gathered from -beds made with ordinary stable manure, droppings and long materials -mixed as they come; but when the manure is used as it comes from the -stable, it should be allowed to ferment before being used. 3. That the -best way of preparing manure for the general culture of mushrooms -indoors, is to gather it in some firm spot, and allow it to lose its -fierce heat. As it is usually gathered in an irregular way, precise -directions as to turning over cannot well be given; but I am convinced -that one turning will suffice when it has arrived at a strong heat, and -then it should be thrown together for a week or so, when, in being -disturbed and removed to make the bed or beds, its strong heat will be -sufficiently subdued. Where large quantities of stable manure are in a -fermenting state, there should be little difficulty in selecting -material to form a bed at any time. Should it have spent its heat -overmuch, it would be easy to revive it with some fresh droppings. 4. -That stable manure may be used when fresh, but it should be always mixed -with more than a fourth of good loamy soil. If this be kept under cover, -or stacked so that it may be had in a rather dry condition, so much the -better, especially if the fresh manure, &c., should be over moist. Beds -thus made are most suited for cool sheds and the open gardens. 5. That a -portion, say nearly one-fifth to one-third, of good and rather dry loam -may always be advantageously mixed with the stable manure; the fresher -the materials, the more loam should be used. In all cases it helps to -solidify the bed, and it is probable that the addition of the loam adds -to the fertility and duration of the bed. 6. That a thickness of from -one foot to fifteen inches for the beds in an artificially heated house -is quite sufficient. Eighteen inches will not be too much for beds made -in sheds, though I have seen excellent crops on beds only a foot thick, -in common sheds with leaky sides. All beds made indoors should be flat -and firmly beaten down, though the absence of firmness is not, as some -think, sufficient to account for want of success. - -I will now quote a few words from Mr. Ayres on other materials for -forming mushroom-beds than stable manure. He has given this, like almost -every important subject in the range of horticulture, some attention. -First among these may be mentioned sawdust which has been used for -bedding horses or for riding-school tracks. Such a substance, thoroughly -impregnated with urine and mixed with horse-droppings, forms an -excellent material for mushroom-beds, especially if mixed with -one-fourth of good fibrous loam. Such materials mixed and fermented -together, and thrown into a bed a foot or eighteen inches in thickness, -according to the temperature of the shed in which the bed is made, will -be found to form capital material for growing this esculent, especially -as it retains the heat for a long time. The worst of it is that the -material is almost valueless after it has served the first purpose; and -used as dung upon light land is rather injurious than otherwise. Then -you may use leaves and loam, in the proportion of one part of the -latter, in a turfy state, to four or five of fermenting leaves. These -may be recently gathered from the trees, and should be allowed to attain -a brisk heat before the loam is added, and then, after sweating for a -week or ten days, may be turned, mixing the materials intimately -together, and then the mass may be formed into a bed. A mushroom-bed of -this kind should not be less than fifteen inches in thickness when -thoroughly consolidated; and when so managed it will grow mushrooms just -as well as dung. The sweepings of our streets and cattle markets, -especially those parts that are paved and much frequented by horses--as, -for example, cabstands, &c.--if collected when dry, and fermented a -little, yield capital material for beds. Here from the cattle market we -have the dung of horses, sheep, and cows mixed together in a finely -divided state, the heating of which is gentle and regular. Material of -this kind procured on dry days, thrown together to ferment once or -twice, and then made into well-consolidated beds, will produce mushrooms -of the finest quality, and continue in bearing a very long time. It is -of the first importance that this material be collected in a dry state, -as of course the slush of the streets would not do at all. Equal -proportions of street sweepings and fresh leaves, properly fermented and -mixed with loam, would perhaps make as good material for growing -mushrooms as need be obtained. Of course the sweepings from those parts -of the town most frequented by horses will be the best for the purpose I -am writing about. - -The idea of mushrooms ceasing to be prolific from the exhaustion of the -active manure in the bed, I have mooted before. Lately several -experiments have been tried which convince me that by taking three -portions of recently-gathered leaves to one of turfy loam, and working -them well together until the mass attains the desired temperature, -sprinkling it, as the work of turning proceeds, with liquid direct from -the stables, and forming this into a bed treated in the usual manner, it -will give just as good mushrooms as the best horse manure in the world. -It is the ammonia that is wanted for this crop, with a gentle heat. -Secure these two things, and, with ordinary care, success is certain. - -Before making the beds, while the material is in preparation, all -particles of old wood, twigs, &c., that are found in the manure should -be removed, as indeed should any extraneous matters likely to prove -offensive or useless. - -The best time for making mushroom-beds, where they are not regularly -made in succession throughout the autumn and winter months, as they -ought to be where there is abundance of material and a good -mushroom-house, is in August and September, as in the early autumn -months the natural heat is sufficient to cause the spawn to germinate -freely, and beds made then ought to bear freely before and up to -Christmas, and during autumn. - -When making the bed, the chief object to bear in mind is the equal -placing of the material. It should be well mixed and regularly and -firmly placed so that the whole may be of a similar texture. Some -heavily tramp and pound their beds to secure firmness; moderately done -this is beneficial; thoroughly equable pressure with the fork, when the -fork can be used, will with the pressure of firm earthing be sufficient; -when beds are made on elevated benches in boxes, and in all positions -where but a slight body of material is used, and where firmness cannot -result from the general pressure of the mass, some kind of pressure with -a wooden mallet or the like must be employed. - -The beds once made, we next arrive at the spawning, and will first -inquire, What is spawn? - - - - -CHAPTER III. - -MUSHROOM-SPAWN. - - -THE first thing we have to determine is, What is spawn? Generally, the -spawn, or what in scientific language is called the _mycelium_, is -supposed to be analogous to seed, while it really is what may be termed -the vegetation of the plant, or something analogous to roots, stems, and -leaves of ordinary plants, the visible part or stem, head and gills, of -the mushroom being, in fact, the fructification, though in such an -apparent preponderance to the other parts. A knowledge of the anatomy -and life-history of the mushroom is not necessary to the cultivator, and -is not familiar even to those who make of mushrooms a study. We know -that the gills are simply surfaces on which germs or spores are -produced. The membrane that covers the spore plates of a single mushroom -would cover a large space if spread out, and the spores are counted by -myriads. We can see them clearly enough under the microscope--can see in -what manner they are borne on and fixed to the gills; but of the history -of their lives, from the time they fall from the surfaces on which they -were born, till the "young mushroom" or inflorescence is vigorously -pushing up from the mass of delicate vegetation which they have given -rise to in earth or decaying manure, we know nothing. However, the -preparation of the spawn, and the subsequent management of it in the -mushroom-bed, are the matters which really concern us. - -How is spawn obtained in the first instance? It is found in a natural -state in half-decomposed manure-heaps, in places where horse-droppings -have accumulated and been kept dry, in riding-schools, sheds to which -horses have long had access, in "mill tracks" under cover, in pastures, -in partially decayed hotbeds, &c., and rarely or never in very moist or -saturated materials. This spawn, sometimes termed "natural" in this -country, and called by the French "virgin spawn," is the best that can -be obtained, and should be used in preference wherever it can be found. -To use it, all that has to be done is to divide the material permeated -by the white spawn into pieces a few inches square, and say an inch or -more thick. They will of course break up irregularly, but all should be -used, whether of the size of a bean, or nearly that of the open hand. -Then they are inserted into the surface of the mushroom-beds in the -ordinary way. - -In nearly every country place, and in numerous suburban ones, in fact, -in most places where horses are kept, opportunities of finding this -spawn occur. Its white, filamentous, and downy threads have the odour -of mushrooms, and the spawn is, therefore, very easily recognised. It -should be generally known that it need not be used when found, but may -be dried, and kept for use in a dry place for years, and has been known -to keep as long as fourteen years. It must not be supposed that it is -only the hard bricks described further on that keep thus. The French -spawn is in much looser and lighter material than that in which we -usually find _mycelium_ in a natural state, and it keeps quite as long -as ours. To preserve spawn found in a natural state, nothing more is -required than to take up carefully the parts of the manure in which it -is found, not breaking them up more than may be necessary, and placing -both large and small pieces loosely in rough shallow hampers. These -should be placed in some dry airy loft or shed till thoroughly dry, and -afterwards kept in some perfectly dry place, packed in rough boxes till -wanted for use. - -[Illustration: Fig. 11. Brick mushroom-spawn.] - -But inasmuch as in this country, at present, but little mushroom-spawn -is required in any one place, the rule is to obtain artificial spawn in -the form of hard bricks. This spawn is made from horse-droppings and -some cowdung and road scrapings beaten up into a mortar-like consistency -in a shed, and then formed into bricks, slightly differing in shape with -different makers, but usually thinner and wider than common building -bricks. Various recipes are given for mixing the materials for the -bricks, and among them the following are about the best:--1. -Horse-droppings the chief part, cowdung a fourth, and the remainder -loam. 2. Fresh horse-droppings mixed with short litter the greater part, -cowdung one third, and the rest mould or loam. 3. Horsedung, cowdung, -and loam in equal parts. These bricks are placed in some dry, airy -place, and when half dry, a little bit of spawn about as big as a hazel -nut, is placed in the centre of each; or sometimes, when the bricks are -as wide as long, a particle is put near each corner, just inserted below -the surface, and plastered over with the composition of which the bricks -are made. When the bricks are nearly dry, they are placed on a hotbed -about a foot thick, in a shed or dry place. On this the bricks are -piled, or placed rather openly and loosely, and covered over with -litter, so that the heat may circulate equably amongst them. The -temperature should not rise more than a degree or two above 60 degrees; -if it does, it may easily be modified by reducing or removing the -covering of litter. The makers frequently examine the bricks during the -process, and when the spawn has been found to spread throughout a brick -like a fine white mould, it is removed, and allowed to dry for future -use in a dark, dry place. If allowed to go further than the fine white -mould stage, and form threads and tubercles in the bricks, it has then -attained to a higher degree of development than is consistent with -preserving its vegetative powers, and therefore it should be removed -from the bed in the fine mould stage. This is the kind of mushroom spawn -mostly in use in our gardens, and it is usually very hard in texture. - -[Illustration: Fig. 12. Mill-track mushroom-spawn.] - -There is a kind of spawn used in some gardens called mill-track -mushroom-spawn, which is made in a more simple manner than the -preceding. It would seem to be simply spawn that has spread through the -thoroughly amalgamated droppings of a mill-track. The material is -rather soft and free in texture, is usually sold in large and somewhat -irregular lumps, and is much used by some cultivators. - -[Illustration: Fig. 13. Parisian mushroom-spawn.] - -Finally, we have the French mushroom-spawn, which differs from our own -in not being in bricks or solid lumps, but in rather light masses of -scarcely half decomposed, comparatively loose and dry litter. This spawn -is obtained by preparing a little bed as if for mushrooms in the -ordinary way, and spawning it with morsels of virgin spawn, if that is -obtainable; and then when the spawn has spread through it, the bed is -broken up and used for spawning beds in the caves, or dried and -preserved for sale. It is sold in small boxes, and is fit for insertion -when pulled in rather thin pieces, about half the size of the open hand; -but in separating it, it divides into many pieces, of all sizes, every -particle of which should be used. The small particles should be strewn -broadcast over the bed after the larger pieces have been inserted. This -applies to the other kinds. In consequence of the open porous nature of -the French mushroom-spawn, it is likely to be immediately affected by -the heat and moisture of the genially warm manure forming the -mushroom-bed, and on that account alone presents some advantages. It has -recently been introduced for the first time, and probably will soon be -tested by many growers. - -Spawn, in the common sense of the word, may be dispensed with by well -amalgamating manure, loam, and old mushroom-beds, or leaf-mould -containing traces of spawn, and these formed into beds about a foot -thick in the mushroom-house, and covered with earth, produce without any -further spawning; but the plan is not so simple or advantageous as that -more commonly pursued. - -There is no necessity for purchasing artificial spawn at all where -mushrooms are regularly grown. Nor is there in any case except at the -commencement, or to guard against one's own spawn proving bad. To secure -good spawn, we have only to do as the French growers do: take a portion -of a bed where it is thoroughly permeated by the spawn and before it -begins to bear, and preserve it for future use. - -Of the efficacy of this sort of spawn, if any proof were needed in -addition to the fine crops the Parisian growers gather, it will be found -in the following statement from Mr. Ayres:-- - -"A short time back, attention was directed to the superior quality of -French mushroom-spawn, and as a natural consequence several London -seedsmen imported it for sale. Some months back I obtained possession of -a stable, and, wishing to grow mushrooms in it, procured a few tons of -horse manure, just as it came from the dung-pit of the hotel stables. It -was very wet, and consequently when thrown together it heated violently. -However, by frequent turning for a week or ten days this tendency was -reduced, and then five beds were formed of it, adding one-fourth of -perfectly dry soil from a cucumber-house. I say perfectly dry, because -the soil had lain in the house for fifteen or eighteen months without -receiving a drop of water, and therefore may almost be considered as -thoroughly dry. Intimately mixed with the fermenting dung, it had the -tendency that I desired--viz., subdued the excessive moisture, and, -after the bed had been made up a week, brought it to the temperature -necessary to receive the spawn. - -"Having great faith in the good qualities of fresh loam from an old -pasture for the production of mushrooms of superior quality, I had a -quantity dried and warmed. I had a coat of this three inches thick laid -over each bed, and then forked carefully in, taking care to mix the soil -and dung as intimately as possible. Re-formed and left for a few days -the beds attained the necessary warmth; then they were made quite firm, -and were ready for spawning. - -"For this purpose I had procured two boxes of the French spawn from -Messrs. Barr and Sugden, of Covent Garden. It was light, loose, flaky, -chaffy stuff, and so dry that I had some fear whether its vegetating -power had not been dried out of it. But the spawn had been bought for -experiment, and therefore the experiment must be carried out. - -"Raking about two inches of the material from the surface of each bed, -pieces of the flaky spawn were laid down, at about ten inches or a foot -apart, all over the beds; the fine portions of the spawn were then -scattered over the beds, patted down firmly with the back of a spade, -and then the surface material was returned, and the whole made as firm -as possible. In passing, it may not be out of place to remark that -spawning in this manner must be guided, or rather governed, by the state -of the material of the bed. If it is not sufficiently cooled, it will be -safer to make holes in the usual manner for the spawn; but if in a fit -state, then I think the broadcast spawning and earthing, as before -described, is the best plan. The disturbed portion of the beds having -regained its heat, and there being no fear of its _over_heating, the -beds were immediately earthed two inches thick with fresh loam, beaten -quite firm, and then covered with a thin layer of dry hay. - -"Not liking to entrust my chance of mushrooms entirely to the new -material, the French spawn, two beds were spawned at the same time and -in the same manner with native spawn. Owing to the large size of the -stable, and the unusually cold, piercing weather at the end of the year -(1869), the beds lost so much heat that I had some misgivings whether -they would not prove a failure; but finding, subsequently, that the -spawn was working, I gave each bed (the surface being rather dry) a good -syringing with water at the temperature of 80 deg., covered it with -clean dry mats, and then returned the hay. The beds are now a sheet of -the 'pearl of the fields,' some of the patches as large as a -cheese-plate, and the whole in most promising condition--so promising -that, with proper attention, I have no doubt they will yield a good -supply of mushrooms for many months. To secure this continuous bearing, -farmyard manure-water and salt, at proper times, should not be spared; -while, as soon as the flush of the first crop is over, the beds may -receive a thorough soaking of manure-water at a temperature of not less -than 80 deg., be re-earthed with fresh soil, and covered down with mats -and hay. In this manner we always get a second crop little inferior to -the first one, and sometimes much superior." - - - - -CHAPTER IV. - -SPAWNING AND AFTER-TREATMENT. - - -_Heat and Protection._ - -THE temperature of the material of the beds should never, at spawning -time, exceed 80 degrees Fahr.--about 70 is the most suitable regular -temperature; and that of the mushroom-house should range between 50 and -60 degrees--not lower than 50. Assuming the materials to have been -turned once after having heated, and again disturbed previous to being -made into beds, they ought to be in a condition for spawning from ten to -twelve days after being put together. It need hardly be said that this -regularity of temperature can only be secured in properly-formed -mushroom-houses. Where mushrooms are grown in these, with double -ceilings and close-fitting shutters and doors, almost impervious to -external influences, and where fresh beds are made from time to time, -little or no artificial heat from pipes is required, though it is as -well to have some at command in the case of unusually severe weather, or -a break in the succession of beds, which would cause a deficiency of -heat from fermenting materials. A covering of hay or dry litter is -necessary for beds formed in the open air, and also for beds made in -cool, half-open sheds; but not for those in regularly heated -mushroom-houses or caves, in which there is a still, steady temperature. -It should be about a foot thick, and should be immediately removed when -it becomes wet or mouldy. This covering should be applied whenever the -temperature of the bed begins to fall. It should not be used in any case -where the temperature will permit of dispensing with it, as it is -troublesome, and sometimes encourages insects. The heat of a bed may be -reduced by opening holes six or eight inches deep with a thick pointed -dibber, here and there, but it is only in exceptional cases that this is -advisable, and it is desirable to husband all the ammonia and heat of -the bed. The earthing over and firming of a bed has a tendency to subdue -the heat in it. Where large sloping beds, say three feet deep at back, -are made against the wall, I have seen [V]-shaped crates put beneath -them at six feet apart, so as to permit of heating them by fresh -supplies of manure. It is, however, a plan possessing little claim to -general use. It is best not to depend on the hand, as is commonly done, -for ascertaining the heat of the beds. Thermometers fixed on sticks of -convenient size, to thrust in the beds, are sold, and remove all excuse -for vagueness in this matter. Coverings of litter are sometimes useful -in "drawing-up the heat" in a bed that has become somewhat chilled. - - -_Spawning._ - -This is the phase of the culture which requires most attention, as to -get the spawn to run regularly through the bed is to be nearly certain -of securing a good crop. In this respect there do not seem to be so many -differences of opinion among mushroom growers. Some, indeed, spawn -immediately after the bed is made up; but, except where the materials -are such as will not heat to more than 80 degrees, this is uncertain, or -in other words bad, practice. - -The important thing should be to ascertain if the spawn spreads through -the bed properly. The usual practice is to earth up the bed immediately -or very soon after it is spawned, and not a few take no further notice -of the bed or beds till the time arrives when the mushrooms ought to -appear. A better plan is not to finally earth the bed until the spawn is -seen beginning to spread its white filaments through the mass; and -should it fail to begin to do this in eight or ten days after -spawning--the conditions being favourable--it is then better to insert -fresh spawn or to re-make the bed, adding fresh materials if it be found -to fail from being too cold. If people generally were to see whether the -spawn had "taken" freely, instead of waiting for many weeks, not knowing -whether it had or not, there would be fewer disappointments in mushroom -culture. - -The ordinary spawn bricks should be broken into pieces, say from about -the size of walnuts to that of eggs; they do not break up into regular -portions. Spawn in the more natural form in which we take it from the -old beds, and in which it is used by the French, is ready to be inserted -into the bed without any further manipulation. I believe this kind of -spawn spreads more rapidly through the beds than our own brick spawn, -and is, on the whole, much more desirable. As it is usually very dry it -is a good plan to place some of it in the mushroom-house a few days -before spawning, so that it may begin to absorb moisture. A dark place -in a warm house, or gentle hotbed, would do as well, but in no case -should it be done more than three days before spawning time. At spawning -this might with advantage be mixed with some that has not gone through -this process. A bushel of the ordinary brick spawn will suffice to spawn -about one hundred square feet. All spawn should be inserted near the -surface, just buried in the materials of which the bed is made. The thin -flakes of spawn which the French use, and which are usually nearly the -length and breadth of the open hand, are generally inserted into the bed -edgeways, or in a direction slanting upwards, so that while one edge of -the piece is buried three or four inches in the bed, the other is seen -peeping through at the surface. Thus each flake of spawn is exposed to a -slight difference of temperature, and, being thin and spongy enough to -be immediately impregnated with the moist warmth of the beds, takes -quickly and well. As to any particular mode of inserting the spawn, -little need be said; if the bed be beaten so hard as many recommend, and -which I do not believe to be at all necessary, a dibber will be required -to insert the spawn; if not, it may be readily inserted with a trowel or -with the hand. It is a good plan to use a mixture of two kinds of spawn. - - -_Soil._ - -As regards the kind of soil used in earthing, it is not of nearly so -much importance as is generally supposed; almost any soil will do; but -those having heaps of good maiden loam laid by for gardening purposes -will prefer to use a coating of that. I believe that any ordinary garden -soil would do, and feel certain that it is a mistake to bestow the least -trouble on procuring any particular kind of soil from a distance. The -beds in the caves around Paris are covered over with a white putty-like -substance, which would be sufficient to shake the nerves of any British -mushroom-grower accustomed to his coatings of mellow loam. It is simply -the fine rubbish from the stone breakage moistened, and smoothly and -firmly pressed over the beds. We, if shown this on a bed that had -failed, would assuredly attribute it to the "stuff" with which the bed -was covered, though finer crops than these little beds yield it would be -impossible to find. I notice this subject so that failures may be traced -to their true causes, and not attributed to matters which really have -but slight influence. The final covering of from one to two inches of -loam or other soil should not be applied till the spawn has begun to -spread through the bed, but a very thin layer of dryish loam may be -placed on with advantage just after spawning has taken place, as it will -serve to make the surface of a more equable temperature. It is a mistake -to suppose that a deep covering is of any advantage. The final earthing -should be of soil sufficiently moist or moistened to permit of its being -pressed into a firm surface. However, unless it is exceptionally dry, a -mere sprinkling of water will suffice. - - -_Watering._ - -As the materials of mushroom-beds are generally moist, and as but little -evaporation can take place in the structures in which they are usually -grown, water is rarely necessary, and should not be applied until the -surface of bed and soil are really dry. It should then be given -copiously, enough to well moisten the bed, and it should be soft water -heated to a temperature of 80 degrees given with a fine rose, and -steadily and patiently applied equably over the whole surface of the -bed. Waterings that merely wet the surface and saturate the crevices or -lower parts of the bed are of no use. If one drenching is not sufficient -to moisten the bed properly, another should be given. The flat form of -bed is of course much more easily watered, and is on the whole the best -for beds under cover. The position of beds will have a great influence -on the quantity of water they require, so that it is almost impossible -to give precise directions on this head; but I can scarcely conceive a -case in which it will be necessary before six or eight weeks after the -formation of a bed, and I have seen fine crops gathered without a single -watering having been given. In watering old beds one ounce of guano to -the gallon of water will prove beneficial. - - -_Vermin in Mushroom Beds._ - -Woodlice are the greatest pests the mushroom-grower has to dispose of, -and the most effective way of getting rid of them is by destroying them -with boiling water. The surface of the bed being firm and covered with -smooth firm soil, the only likely place to afford these creatures the -interstices they usually retire into when disturbed, or when not -employed in eating the head of every little mushroom that presents -itself, is round the edges of the bed, and in the slit which often -occurs between the bed and wall or sides of the shelves that support it. -There they are likely to be found in great numbers, and may be destroyed -wholesale by pouring boiling water all along the crack. If the beds be -covered with hay or litter, it will be necessary to remove this and -allow them time to retreat into their hiding places; and if the beds are -made in any position that permits of the woodlice hiding in other places -than the interstices round them, these places should be sought out, -marked, and receive a searching dose of the scalding water all at the -same time. It need hardly be added that, as it is not mushrooms, but -creatures that rival ourselves in their love of mushrooms, that we wish -to annihilate, the scalding water must not in any case be applied to the -surface of the bed. If on the surface of old or dry beds, or those from -which a good many mushrooms have been cut or pulled, there are any loose -hollows or crevices in which the woodlice can take shelter, they should -be sought out, cleared of vermin, levelled up, and made firm, so that -the enemy cannot take up a position in which we cannot attack him. -Should this plan fail, half an ounce of sugar of lead, mixed with a -handful of oatmeal and laid in their tracks, will quickly destroy the -pests. - -The small mite is most destructive in a high temperature, and in summer, -Mr. Cuthill says, "the maggot" will not breed in a house where the -temperature does not exceed sixty degrees, and it is in hot, dry, and -half-neglected houses that this pest is usually seen in summer. At that -season there is little need to grow mushrooms indoors, and how they may -be produced otherwise in great abundance is explained further on. The -entrance of rats should also be guarded against. - -Mushroom-beds come into bearing about six weeks from the time of -spawning, and remain in bearing from two to five months, according to -the position in which they are made, and the attention paid to them. - - -_Treatment of Old Beds._ - -Upon the continuous bearing qualities of a mushroom bed a word may be -said. It may savour of the ridiculous to say that a plant growing upon a -dung bed may fail from the want of manure. Yet such is literally and -positively the fact. Beds become worn out, the produce small and -spindly, and we directly do away with them and make fresh ones. Instead -of doing this, give the bed a thorough soaking of stable urine and -water, at the temperature of 80 degrees, using the urine in the -proportion of one part to five of soft water, and adding a wineglassful -of salt to each canful; then coat the bed with fresh sod, cover it down -with mats so as to promote the heating, and a second crop as good as the -first may be obtained. In this matter I speak from experience, and Mr. -Ingram, at Belvoir, has followed the same plan for many years with the -most satisfactory result. - - -_Gathering the Crop._ - -Gatherings should frequently take place, especially where the culture -is pursued on a large scale. Where there are several beds in bearing, -the mushrooms should be gathered every morning. In all cases they should -be pulled or twisted out, never cut out, so as to leave decaying stumps -in the beds. The holes made by pulling out the mushrooms should be -filled with a little fine loam, of which a small heap may be kept in the -house for this purpose. - - -_Cleansing the House._ - -A word as to the necessity of a thorough annual cleansing of the -mushroom-house. The fact that the French cave-cultivators find it -necessary to shift from cave to cave, and find that after a cave has -been in use a certain time, mushrooms cease to be produced in it, should -act as a caution in this respect. In summer, when there is no need to -attempt the culture indoors, the house should be thoroughly cleaned out, -lime-whited, every surface scraped and washed, and the house freely -opened, so as to thoroughly sweeten it. - - - - -CHAPTER V. - -CULTURE IN SHEDS, CELLARS, ARCHES, OUTHOUSES, AND ALL ENCLOSED -STRUCTURES OTHER THAN THE MUSHROOM-HOUSE. - - -MUSHROOMS may be, and are, grown to perfection in many less ambitious -structures than the mushroom-house proper. Any species of outhouse will -do for the autumn and early winter crops. One of the best crops I have -ever seen was grown in a dry and unused coach-house. Mr. Robert Fish -grows all his crops in a long, low, rude thatched shed, open in -front--the beds flat, in a continuous line against a wall, and enclosed -by a low board. Mr. Cuthill, who wrote on mushrooms, and who used to -grow them very well, grew his in rude sheds placed against walls. It -matters not in the least if the shed be open or ventilated here and -there, especially for autumn crops, as I have seen admirable crops in -low outhouses searched by every gust, and not heated by flues. The beds -in these should always be covered with hay. Mushrooms may be grown in -cellars; but cellars being commonly under houses, they are not exactly -the places to which people like to convey the materials necessary for -the making of mushroom-beds. Where they occur away from a -dwelling-house, this objection will not hold good. In some cases it -might be obviated by making the beds in rough boxes, say 31/2 ft. long -by 11/2 ft. wide, and afterwards introducing them into the cellar. -Railway or other arches, or any dry and empty structures, may be used -for mushroom-growing. - -"The construction," says Mr. William Ingram, of Belvoir, in a letter to -the _Field_, "of efficient mushroom-houses is sufficiently understood by -most of our hothouse-builders and by gardeners; but the economical -adaptation of places which already exist is a matter which may with the -greatest advantage be discussed, as there are hundreds of persons about -whose establishments may be found outhouses, cellars, quarries, or -sheds, capable of conversion into mushroom-houses, who would be very -glad to be taught the method of growing mushrooms, and to have the -simple principles that should govern the construction of mushroom-houses -explained. - -"There are few large farmsteads that are without an unconsidered place -which could be readily adapted for the purpose of growing mushrooms; and -farmers possess the material at hand, horse manure, which would not -suffer great deterioration if employed in first raising a crop of -mushrooms. Country brewing establishments have equal conveniences and -opportunities. By relating the means by which I have been for several -years able to raise large quantities of excellent mushrooms, in a place -originally but ill adapted for the purpose, I may induce some of those -persons who desire the luxury of what Soyer called 'the Pearl of the -Fields,' to turn their attention to the subject of their growth. - -"I had a large, open, airy shed at command, but it was liable to be -affected by changes in the weather, and was altogether too draughty and -cold in winter, and too hot in summer. I built within this shed, with -rough fir boards, an inner shed, 18 ft. long, 6 ft. wide, and 8 ft. in -height; two receptacles for beds were formed, one on the floor, the -other above it: and to give the requisite heat in winter, I passed a -flue, formed of 9-in. socket pipes, through the house; with this I can -always command an adequate amount of heat. The material of which the -beds are formed is chiefly droppings, collected from an enclosed and -covered exercise ground. These droppings are trampled by the horses, and -mixed with straw broken up with the manure by the passage of the horses. - -"When first collected it is piled up in a large heap, in a perfectly dry -state, and when wanted for the bed is thrown out, sprinkled with water, -and fermented for about a week; while hot, it is taken to the house, and -as it is thrown in is mixed with a small quantity of soil of a loamy -character, and a barrow-load of leaf soil. It is then pressed into as -compact a mass as possible by a rammer or mallet, building it up until -it forms a bed 10 in. thick in front and 20 in. at the back. After a bed -formed of this description of materials has been thus put together, -rapid fermentation takes place; and when the most violent fermentative -action has passed, and a temperature of 80 deg. is found in the bed, spawn -is put into it by means of a dibber. I employ brick spawn obtained from -good makers, but, to vary and possibly prolong the period of production, -I introduce a certain quantity of spawn saved from old beds. This is -longer in its development than the made spawn, and appears as a -subsidiary crop. After the bed is spawned, a covering of compact loamy -soil is spread on the surface, 11/2 in. to 2 in. in thickness, and well -beaten upon it so as to form a smooth and hard crust. A temperature -ranging from 50 deg. to 60 deg. should be maintained in the house. A lower -temperature abstracts the heat from the bed more rapidly. - -"When the mushrooms begin to exhibit weakness, as after the bed has -produced a certain quantity they will do, from the exhaustion of the -more stimulating portions of the manure, I find it an excellent practice -to administer a sprinkling of water in which a handful of salt has been -thrown (that quantity of salt to a three-gallon can). Saltpetre, though -in much smaller quantities, is equally valuable given in the same way. -The practice I have described relates to the winter cultivation of -mushrooms." - -Many instances of perfect success like the preceding could be quoted. -Here is one from Mr. W. P. Ayres:-- - -"You will be glad to hear that we have on the outskirts of this town -(Nottingham) a grower of mushrooms (Mr. Cookson, Mansfield Road) who -vies with the French growers, especially if the means of growth be taken -into consideration. The place he occupies was formerly the pleasure -garden of a large hotel, where the proprietor would occasionally, in the -summer season, treat his friends and patrons to an _al fresco_ -entertainment. For this purpose a range of summer-houses was built, -consisting of brick arches, say 12 feet deep, 6 feet wide, and a little -more in height. Close adjoining is a small sandstone-rock cellar, which -used to serve for drinkables in the summer and potatoes in the winter. - -"Some twelve months ago these premises and the house adjoining fell into -the occupation of a gardener, who, though he had a licence to the house, -fancied he might turn the arches to a better purpose, and hence he -devoted them to mushroom beds. As it was necessary that the arches -should be closed, a wall about three feet high was built in the rudest -manner parallel with their front, but six feet from it, and from that a -roof of rough timber was thrown, and covered with asphalted felt. Here, -however, was a mistake; for, the building standing due south, when the -sun fell upon it the atmosphere became rather 'tarry'--so much so that -the mushrooms refused to grow in it. That wore off after a time, and -from a bed not more than thirty yards square the tenant told me he had -cut more than 25_l._ worth of mushrooms. When I saw the beds they might -be considered spent, the flush of early youth was over; but still the -crop was most wonderful, especially considering the means at command. - -"In the rock cellar the small beds were a pavement of splendid -mushrooms, many of them as large over as a cheese-plate, and thick in -proportion. In the garden is a barn--four walls with a roof over them, -the latter so rude that it was only in fair weather that it could be -called waterproof. In this place which may be 25 ft. long by 15 ft. -wide, two tiers of beds have been put up, the roof has been made -waterproof, a common brick flue put through it, and, at the time I saw -them, more promising beds could not be desired. Here again, you will -perceive expensive appliances are not necessary for the production of -mushrooms." - -Stables and like structures offer capital positions in which successful -mushroom culture may be carried out with ease. - -If it is possible, and we know it is not only possible but easy, to grow -mushrooms in boxes a few feet long and a foot or eighteen inches wide, -and the same depth, it is clear that there can be no difficulty about -growing them in abundance in such a manner as that shown in the -accompanying engraving. This mode was actually practised with great -success by the Baron Joseph d'Hoogvorst, of Limmel. - -[Illustration: Fig. 14. Mushroom culture on shelves in stable.] - -The culture was carried out in neatly fitted-up wooden boxes, so -arranged that they might be shrouded with canvas curtains as shown in -the engraving, so that at first sight one would not suppose that -mushroom culture was carried on there. No evil results as regards the -creation of an unhealthy atmosphere accompanied the attempt. The beds -were formed much in the usual way from the droppings of highly fed -horses. Now there can be no doubt that a similar mode of growing -mushrooms could be carried out in the stables or some adjacent building -in hundreds of places apart from the garden and the gardener altogether. -Given the materials and some position, however contracted, in which to -carry out the culture, and both these things are surely to be had almost -in every place where there is a stable, the rest is so simple that any -stableman or boy could carry it out. We know that these individuals, as -a class, are not much given to botanical or horticultural studies, but -no doubt the prospect of an occasional half-dozen fresh mushrooms on the -gridiron would give them most praiseworthy interest in the culture. The -only objection to it is, or might be, that once they were at home in the -culture, the gardener would be very likely to fall short of materials -for his hotbeds. An empty loft, or any other covered structure could be -employed as well as the stable or an empty coach-house. Apart altogether -from utilizing the walls of the stable, as the Baron did, empty stalls -frequently present an opportunity of growing mushrooms in quantity. -These remarks apply to stables in cities and towns, as well as in the -country; indeed in cities, particularly in London, stable manure is -usually so plentiful that it is much easier to obtain and much cheaper -than in the country, so that even those in London having suitable places -for growing mushrooms, but not keeping horses regularly or at all, could -have no difficulty in procuring abundance of materials. - -[Illustration: Fig. 15. Mushroom-bed on rude shelf against wall of -cellar.] - -The French often cultivate mushrooms in cellars as well as in the caves -described in the next chapter. Preference should be given to a dry warm -cellar; it should be as dark as possible, and exposed to no draughts. -Beds can be made in cellars in many ways. Those made in the middle -should always be formed with two sides, while those against the walls -should only be half as thick, on account of their having only one useful -side. It is also possible to arrange them on shelves, one above the -other. For this purpose strong bars of iron are driven into the walls, -upon which are placed shelves of the proper size covered with earth, -upon which is formed a bed, that is treated exactly as those made upon -the ground. These beds are just as productive as any of the other -kinds. They may even be made on the bottoms of casks, which should be -at least two feet six in diameter; and they are built up in the shape of -a sugarloaf, about three feet in height, and the pieces of spawn are -placed an inch and a quarter deep, and sixteen inches apart. A barrel is -sawn crossways into two pieces, each forming a tub. Holes are made in -the bottom of each, and a thin layer of good soil is spread over them -inside. They are then filled with good well-prepared stable manure, just -like that used in the case of ordinary mushroom-beds, the different -layers of dung in each tub being well pressed down. When the tub is half -full, six or seven good pieces of spawn are placed on the surface, and -the remainder is piled up with manure, which is well pressed down, the -operation being completed by giving to the heap the form of a dome. The -tubs thus prepared are placed in a perfectly dark part of a cellar, and -eight or ten days afterwards the dung is taken up until the spawn is -visible, in order to see whether it has commenced to vegetate and -develop little filaments. If the spawn has spread, the surface must be -covered with soil, care being taken to use only that which is fresh and -properly prepared. In this or any like way there should be no difficulty -in growing mushrooms: the boxes or tubs could be filled anywhere, and -then carried into the spare cellars, &c. In this way objections against -steaming manure might in many cases be got over. - -[Illustration: Fig. 16. Pyramidal mushroom-bed on floor of cellar.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 17. Mushrooms grown in bottom of old cask.] - -Among the many and various structures in which mushrooms may be grown, -but which we rarely see utilized for that purpose, may be mentioned all -kinds of greenhouses, stoves, pits, and frames. Some of the best crops I -have ever seen were in cold greenhouses almost too ruinous to grow -anything else. In mid-winter the floors of all houses in which a genial -temperature is kept up for forcing or other purposes, offer excellent -positions for producing mushrooms quickly and abundantly. Small -ridge-like beds might be made on the floor of these, and, with the -genial temperature usually kept up in such places, would probably come -into bearing a month or so after being spawned. How often, for example, -do we notice the floors of large vineries, in mid-winter or very early -spring, quite bare, especially after the vines are started. Now just at -that season the genial heat that would be given off from the slightly -fermenting materials used for the mushroom-bed is that which would be -most congenial to the tender breaking vines, and with a little attention -in this way a first-rate crop of mushrooms could always be gathered from -the early vinery, and in houses where no artificial heat was applied -they could also be grown abundantly. A covering of hay would, however, -be necessary in cold houses in mid-winter, to prevent excessive -variation of the temperature, and also in spring and summer to prevent -excessive drying or scorching of the beds by a hot sun. I have even seen -excellent crops grown on the floor in an old lean-to house, the beds -covered with a foot or so of hay, occasionally sprinkled with water to -prevent excessive heat on the surface of the bed. In small places where -every foot of space in the glass-house is likely to be occupied with -plants, it is not easy to carry out the foregoing suggestions, but even -if a small early vinery were occupied with plants, it would be desirable -and practicable to introduce a series of rough boxes devoted to mushroom -culture. - -Apart from empty greenhouses altogether, the space beneath the stages in -numbers of glass-houses of every type may be utilized for the production -of mushrooms. These positions are usually unoccupied, occasionally they -are used for storing fuchsias, &c. in winter, but very seldom are they -turned to so good account as they might be in the way I recommend. The -stage in the small greenhouse is frequently elevated so that there is -plenty of room to get beneath it: if at the back or end there is no way -of walking readily under the stage, an opening should be made. The only -difficulty that could possibly occur would arise from the drip from the -plants on the stage above. This, however, can be easily guarded against -by spreading a piece of tarpaulin or oil-canvas over the bed or beds. -With beds properly made, a coat of dry hay or litter, and a piece of -tarpaulin, every owner of anything in the shape of a greenhouse with a -stage in it may grow mushrooms throughout the autumn, winter, and spring -months, and even in summer by keeping the surface of the hay or litter -moist. Of course, if there be room for but one bed, a succession cannot -be kept up, and in this case a bed should be made in autumn, which, if -well managed, should be in full bearing for a month or six weeks before -and after Christmas. There are, however, numerous spaces such as those -alluded to where there is room to make a succession of beds. No person -having but one greenhouse need fear much or any inconvenience from the -odour of the manure--at least, not after the beds are earthed. The -couple of inches of soil over the manure would absorb any vapour given -off by the bed. - -Wherever the cultivation of cucumbers or melons in pits or frames is -carried out, nothing can be easier than to grow large crops of mushrooms -after the melons, &c. are cleared away. The spawn may be inserted over -the surface of the little mounds usually made for the reception of the -young melon plants, and also over the remaining surface of the beds -which are generally covered with a few inches of earth. After the melons -have done bearing and the haulm is cleared away, the spawn will usually -be found to have spread through the deep mass of earth in the beds. As -little or no water is given or required while the melons are ripening, a -good soaking of tepid water will generally be necessary to encourage the -mushrooms to start into profuse bearing. If the season and situation be -mild and warm, the lights may be taken off; and if the sun be very -strong, the beds may be shaded with canvas or mats. If the season be -late and cold it will, on the other hand, be desirable to keep on the -lights, and even to cover them in cold weather. - - - - -CHAPTER VI. - -THE CAVE CULTURE OF MUSHROOMS, NEAR PARIS. - - -THE most extensive and successful culture of mushrooms in existence is -carried on in widely-ramifying caves far beneath the surface in the -vicinity of Paris. To give the reader as good an idea of it as I can we -must visit one of the great "Mushroom caves" at Montrouge, just outside -the fortifications of Paris, on the southern side. The surface of the -ground is mostly cropped with wheat; but here and there lie, ready to be -transported to Paris, blocks of white stone, which have recently been -brought to the surface through coalpit-like openings. There is nothing -like a "quarry," as we understand it, to be seen; the stone is extracted -as we extract coal, and with no interference whatever with the surface -of the ground. We find a "champignonniste" after some trouble, and he -accompanies us across some fields to the entrance of his subterranean -garden. It is a circular opening like the mouth of an old well, but from -it protrudes the head of a thick pole with sticks thrust through it. -This pole, the base of which rests in darkness sixty feet below, is -the easiest and indeed the only way by which human beings can get into -the mine. I had an idea that one might enter sideways and in a more -agreeable manner, but it was not so. Down the shaky pole my guide -creeps, I follow, and soon reach the bottom, from which little passages -radiate. A few little lamps fixed on pointed sticks are placed below, -and, arming ourselves with one each, we slowly commence exploring dark, -still, tortuous passages. I have heard that the first individual who -commenced mushroom-growing in these catacomb-like burrowings was one -who, at a particularly glorious epoch of the history of France, when a -great many more brave garcons went to fight than returned from the -victory, preferred, strange to say, to stay at home and hide himself -rather than form a unit in "battle's magnificently stern array." -Industrious and discreet youth! You deserve being held up as an example -as much as the busy bee that improves each "shining hour." - -[Illustration: Fig. 18. Mushroom-cave, 70 feet beneath the surface, at -Montrouge, near Paris, July, 1868.] - -The passages are narrow, and occasionally we have to stoop. On each hand -there are little narrow beds of half-decomposed stable manure running -along the wall. These have been made quite recently, and have not yet -been spawned. Presently we arrive at others in which the spawn has been -placed, and is "taking" freely. The spawn in these caves is introduced -into the little beds in flakes taken from an old bed, or, still better, -from a heap of stable manure in which it occurs naturally. Such spawn -is preferred, and considered much more valuable than that taken from old -beds. Of spawn in the form of bricks, such as is used in England, there -is none. - -[Illustration: Fig. 19. Newly-made bed against wall of cave.] - -The champignonniste pointed with pride to the way in which the flakes of -spawn had begun to spread through the little beds, and passed -on--sometimes stooping very low to avoid the pointed stones in the -roof--to where the beds were in a more advanced state. Here we saw -little, smooth, putty-coloured ridges running along the sides of the -passages, and wherever the rocky subway became as large as a small -bedroom two or three little beds were placed parallel to each other. -These beds were new, and dotted all over with mushrooms no bigger than -sweet pea seeds, affording an excellent prospect of a crop. Each bed -contains a much smaller body of manure than is ever the case in our -gardens. They are not more than twenty inches high, and about the same -width at the base; while those against the sides of the passages are not -so large as those placed in the open spaces. The soil, with which they -are covered to the depth of about an inch, is nearly white, and is -simply sifted from the rubbish of the stone-cutters above, giving the -recently-made bed the appearance of being covered with putty. - -Although we are from seventy to eighty feet below the surface of the -ground, everything looks quite neat--in fact, very much more so than -could have been expected, not a particle of litter being met with. A -certain length of bed is made every day in the year, and as the men -finish one gallery or series of galleries at a time, the beds in each -have a similar character. As we proceed to those in full bearing, -creeping up and down narrow passages, winding always between the two -little narrow beds against the wall on each side, and passing now and -then through wider nooks filled with two or three little beds, daylight -is again seen. This time it comes through another well-like shaft, -formerly used for getting up the stone, but now for throwing down the -requisite materials into the cave. At the bottom lies a large heap of -the white earth before alluded to, and a barrel of water--for gentle -waterings are required in the quiet, cool, black stillness of these -caves, as well as in mushroom-houses on the upper crust. - -Once more we plunge into a passage as dark as ink, and find ourselves -between two lines of beds in full bearing, the beautiful white -button-like mushrooms appearing everywhere in profusion along the sides -of the diminutive beds, something like the drills which farmers make -for green crops. As the proprietor goes along he removes sundry bunches -that are in perfection, and leaves them on the spot, so that they may be -collected with the rest for to-morrow's market. He gathers largely every -day, occasionally sending more than 400 lb. weight per day, the average -being about 300 lb. - -[Illustration: Fig. 20. View in mushroom-cave.] - -A moment more and we are in an open space, a sort of chamber, say 20 -feet by 12, and here the little beds are arranged in parallel lines, an -alley of not more than four inches separating them, the sides of the -beds being literally blistered all over with mushrooms. There is one -exception; on half of the bed and for about ten feet along, the little -mushrooms have appeared and are appearing, but they never get larger -than a pea, and shrivel away, "bewitched" as it were. At least such was -the inference drawn from the cultivator's expression about it. He -gravely attributed it to a ridiculously superstitious cause. Frequently -the mushrooms grow in bunches or "rocks," as they are called, and in -such cases those that compose the little mass are lifted all together. - -The sides of one bed here had been almost stripped by the taking away of -such bunches, and it is worthy of note that they are not only taken out, -root and all, when being gathered, but the very spot in which they grew -is scraped out, so as to get rid of every trace of the old bunch, and -the space is covered with a little earth from the bottom of the heap. It -is the habit to do this in every case, and when the gatherer leaves a -small hole from which he has pulled even a solitary mushroom, he fills -it with some of the white earth from the base, no doubt intending to -gather other mushrooms from the same spots before many weeks are over. -The "buttons" look very white, and are apparently of prime quality. The -absence of all littery coverings and dust, and the daily gatherings, -secure them in what we may term perfect condition. I visited this cave -on the 6th of July, 1868, and doubt very much if at that season a more -remarkable crop of mushrooms could be anywhere found than was presented -in this subterranean chamber--a mere speck in the space devoted to -mushroom culture by one individual. - -When I state that there are six or seven miles run of mushroom-beds in -the ramifications of this cave, and that the owner is but one of a large -class who devote themselves to mushroom culture, the reader will have -some opportunity of judging of the extent to which it is carried on -about Paris. These caves not only supply the wants of the city above -them, but those of England and other countries also, large quantities of -preserved mushrooms being exported, one house alone sending to our own -country no less than 14,000 boxes annually. There were some traces of -the teeth of rats on the produce, and it need not be said that these -enemies are not agreeable in such a place; but they did not seem to have -committed any serious ravages, and are probably only casual visitors, -who take the first opportunity of obtaining more varied food than is -afforded them by these caves. To traverse the passages any further is -needless--there is nothing to be seen but a repetition of the culture -above described, every available inch of the cave being occupied. We -again find our way to the bottom of the shaft, carefully mount the -rather shaky pole one at a time, and again stand in the hot sun in the -midst of the ripe wheat. - -In traversing the fields two things relating to mushroom culture are to -be observed--heaps of white gritty earth, sifted from the _debris_ of -the white stone, and large heaps of stable manure accumulated for -mushroom growing, and undergoing preparation for it. That preparation is -different from what we are accustomed to give it. It is ordinary stable -manure, or very short stuff, not droppings, and is thrown into heaps -four or five feet high, and perhaps thirty feet wide. The men were -employed turning this over, the mass being afterwards stamped down with -their feet, a water-cart and pots being used to thoroughly water the -manure where it is dry and whitish. - -As many will feel an interest in the cave culture of the mushroom, and -perhaps wish to see it for themselves, I may state that it is difficult -to obtain permission to visit the caves, and many persons would not like -the look of the "ladder" which affords an entrance. Even with a -well-known Parisian horticulturist I had some difficulty in entering -them. I was informed that one champignonniste in the same neighbourhood -demands the exorbitant price of twenty francs for a visit to his cave. -As the visit is the work of some little time, no visitor should put the -cultivators to this trouble without offering some slight recompense--say -not less than five francs. The above cave is but a sample of many in the -immediate neighbourhood of Paris. - -We will next visit a mushroom-cave of another type at some little -distance from that city. It is situated near Frepillon, -Mery-sur-Oise--a place which may be reached in an hour or so by the -Chemin de fer du Nord, passing by Enghien, the valley of Montmorency and -Pontoise, and alighting at Auvers. There are vast quarries in the -neighbourhood, both for building-stone and the plaster so largely used -in Paris. The materials are not quarried in the ordinary way by opening -up the ground, nor by the method employed at Montrouge and elsewhere in -the suburbs of Paris, but so that the interior of the earth looks like a -vast gloomy cathedral. In 1867 the mushroom culture was in full force at -Mery, and as many as 3000 lbs. a day were sometimes sent from thence to -the Paris market; but the mushroom is a thing of peculiar taste, and -these quarries are now empty--cleaned out and left to rest. After a time -the great quarries seem to become tired of their occupants, or the -mushrooms dislike the air; the quarries are then well cleaned out, the -very soil where the beds rested being scraped away, and the place left -to recruit itself for a year or two. In 1867 M. Renaudot had the -extraordinary length of over twenty-one miles of mushroom-beds in one -great cave at Mery; last year there were sixteen miles in a cave at -Frepillon. This is a clean, lonely village, just touching on the -gigantic cemetery which M. Haussmann projected. - -[Illustration: Fig. 21. Entrance to large subterranean quarry.] - -The distant view of the entrance to the quarries has much the appearance -of an English chalk-pit. But there is a great rude arch cut into the -rock, and into this we enter, meeting presently a waggon coming forth -with a load of stones, the waggoner with lamp in hand. To the visitor -who has seen the mushroom caves near Paris, where it is sometimes -necessary to stoop very low to avoid knocking one's head against the -roof rocks, the surprise is great on getting a little way in. At least -it is so soon as one can see; the darkness is so profound that a few -candles or lamps merely make it more visible. The tunnel we traverse is -nearly regularly arched, masonry being used here and there, so as to -render the support secure and somewhat symmetrical, the arches being -flat at the top for six feet or so, and about twenty-five feet high; -sometimes five feet higher. - -[Illustration: Fig. 22. - -Plan of large subterranean quarry at Fortes Terres, Frepillon. _S_, _S_, -_S_, represent the plan of the bases of the huge supporting pillars, and -the dotted lines their union with the roof. _D_, _C_, shows the line of -the section shown in the following cut, and _P_, place for preparing the -plaster. Sept. 1868.] - -[Illustration: Fig. 23. Section following the line _C_, _D_, in Fig. -22.] - -Presently we turn to the right, and a scene like a vast subterranean -rock temple presents itself. At one end are several of us with lamps, -admiring the young mushrooms budding all over the rows of beds, which, -serpent-like, are long and slim, and coil away into the darkness. At -about 150 feet distance there is a group of three men and a boy, each -with a lamp, again dispelling the darkness from the mushroom beds, and -occupied in placing small quantities of a sort of white clayey sand in -the spots whence gatherings have been made a few hours previously. From -both sides of this gloomy avenue the dark openings of others depart at -short intervals, and the floor of all is covered with mushroom-beds, -sometimes running along the passages, sometimes across them. These beds -are about twenty-two inches high and as much in diameter, and are -covered with silver sand and a sort of white putty-like clay in about -equal proportions. Running along in parallel lines, and disappearing -from view in the darkness, one knows not what to compare them to, unless -it be to barked pine trees in the hold of a ship. - -Everywhere on the surface of these little beds small mushrooms were -peering forth in quantity; as the beds are regularly gathered from every -day, no very large ones are seen. They are preferred when about the size -of a chestnut, and are removed root and branch, a small portion of -finely sifted earth being placed in each hole, so as to level the bed as -in the caves at Montrouge. If the old superstition that a mushroom never -grows after being seen by human eyes were true, the trade of a -champignonniste would never answer here, as the little budding -individuals come within view every day during the gathering and earthing -operations. The most perfect cleanliness is observed everywhere in the -neighbourhood of these beds, and the whole surface of each avenue is -covered by them, leaving passages of ten inches or a foot between the -beds. At the time of my visit (Sept. 29, 1868) the crops of the -cultivator were reduced to their lowest ebb, and yet about 400 lbs. per -day were sent to market. The average daily quantity from this cave is -about 880 lbs., and sometimes that is nearly doubled. - -In some parts of the cave the work of ripping out the stone by powder -and simple machinery continually goes on. The arches follow the veining -of the stone, so to speak; their lower parts are of hard stone, the -upper ones of soft, except the very top, which is again hard. There is -but a slight crust of stone above the apex of each arch, and above that -the earth and trees. - -It may be supposed that the profits from such an extensive culture are -great; and so they are, but the expense is great also. The proprietor -informed me that culture on a more limited scale than he pursued last -year at Mery gave the best return in proportion to expense, the care and -supervision required by so many miles of beds being too great. - -[Illustration: Fig. 24. Extracting the stone in subterranean quarries.] - -All the manure employed is brought from Paris by rail, as the place is -twenty-five miles from that city by road. In the first place, so much -per month is paid in Paris for the manure of each horse; then it has to -be carted to the railway station and loaded in the waggons; next it is -brought to the station of Auvers, and afterwards carted a couple of -miles to the quarries, paying a toll for a bridge over the Oise on the -way. That surely is difficulty enough for a cultivator to begin with! -Then it is placed in great flat heaps a yard deep by about thirty long -and ten wide, not far removed from the mouth of the cave, and here it is -prepared, turned over and well mixed three times, and as a rule watered -twice. About five or six weeks are occupied in the preparation, long -manure requiring more time than short. The watering is not usually done -regularly over the mass, but chiefly where it is dry and overheated. -Every day manure is brought from Paris; every day new beds are made and -old ones cleared out--the spent manure being used for garden purposes, -particularly in surfacing or mulching, so as to prevent over-radiation -from the ground in summer. The chief advantage the cultivator here has -is the facility of taking his manure or anything else in or out in -carts, as easily as if the beds were made in the open air. Near Paris, -on the contrary, everything has to be sent up and down through shafts -like those of an old well, and the men have to creep up and down a rough -pole like mice. Many men are employed in the culture, the daily -examination of sixteen miles of beds being a considerable item in -itself. Here and there a barrier in the form of straw nailed between -laths may be seen blocking up the great arch to a height of six feet or -so. This is to prevent currents of air wandering about through the vast -passages. - -The mode of preparing the spawn here is entirely different to ours. They -prefer virgin spawn--that is to say, spawn found naturally in a heap of -manure. But as this material cannot be obtained in sufficient quantity -to meet the wants of such extensive growers, they put a small portion of -it into a mushroom-bed to spread, and instead of allowing this bed to -produce mushrooms, it is all used as spawn, and is valued more than any -other. Of course abundance of spawn occurs in the old beds, but it is -never used directly. It is, however, frequently employed to spawn a -small bed when virgin spawn cannot be obtained. In this case the small -bed devoted to the propagation of spawn is placed in the open air, and -covered with straw, and as soon as it is permeated with the spawn it is -carried into the caves and used. As the making and spawning of beds is a -process continually going on, a bed of this sort must be ready at all -times. It is never made into bricks as with us, but simply spread -through short, partly-decomposed, manure.[A] - -[A] Mr. Speed, superintendent of the gardens at Chatsworth, has recently -prepared his own spawn, as described on p. 73, and with perfect success. - -I was informed that coal-mines are not adapted for growing mushrooms, -and the smallest particle of iron in the beds of manure is avoided by -the spawn, a circle around it remaining inert. It is said to be the same -with coal. If an evil-disposed workman wishes to injure his employer, he -has only to slip along by the beds with a pocketful of rusty old nails, -and insert one here and there. - -[Illustration: Fig. 25. View in old subterranean quarries devoted to -mushroom culture, and in the occupation of M. Renaudot. Sept. 29, 1868.] - -The beds remain in good bearing generally about two months, but -sometimes last twice and three times as long. A useful contrivance for -facilitating the watering of the beds has lately been invented; it -consists of a portable water-cistern to be strapped to the back and -fitted with a rose and tubing, so that a workman may carry a larger -quantity of water, and apply it more regularly and gently than with the -old-fashioned watering-pots--while one hand is left free to carry the -lamp. An iron frame has also been invented, in which the bed is first -compressed and shaped, the frame being then reversed and the bed placed -in position. Another invention for earthing the beds over as soon as the -spawn has taken will soon be in operation if not already so. As on an -average 2500 yards of beds are made every month, simple mechanical -contrivances to facilitate the operation will prove of the greatest -advantage to the cultivator. - -In addition to the caves in the localities above alluded to there are -other places near Paris where the culture is carried on--notably at -Moulin de la Roche, Sous Bicetre, near St. Germaine, and also at -Bagneux. The equability of temperature in the caves renders the culture -of the mushroom possible at all seasons; but the best crops are gathered -in winter, and consequently that is the best time to see them. I, -however, saw abundant crops in the hottest part of the very hot season -of 1868. These mushroom caves are under Government supervision, and are -regularly inspected like any other mines in which work is going on. As -regards the depth at which this culture is practised, it usually varies -from twenty to one hundred feet, sometimes reaching one hundred and -fifty and one hundred and sixty feet from the surface of the earth. They -are so large that sometimes people are lost in them. In one instance the -proprietor of a large cave went astray, and it was three days before he -was discovered, although soldiers and volunteers in abundance were sent -down. Is it possible that in a great mining and excavating country like -ours we cannot establish the same kind of industry? - - - - -CHAPTER VII. - -CULTURE ON PREPARED BEDS IN THE OPEN AIR IN GARDENS AND FIELDS. - - -MUSHROOMS may be grown with ease in the open air in gardens; and this is -a phase of the culture with which gardeners are not by any means -sufficiently conversant. In fact, mushroom-culture in the open air in -private gardens may be said not to exist at present, so very rarely is -it seen. - -In a little pamphlet on mushroom-growing that has lately appeared I find -it stated that mushrooms may be grown out of doors "in summer," but -nothing about them being grown in the open air in winter. The Paris -growers never attempt their culture in summer: the London ones very -rarely. It is in winter that their cultivation is carried on in full -vigour in the open air. Abundant crops are grown in the open air by the -market-gardeners of London and Paris. From their beds mushrooms are -gathered in quantities in mid-winter as well as in autumn. The Paris -market-gardener does not attempt the culture in mid-summer, and does not -think it practicable; but in the hot summer of 1868, and in the midst of -the heats of July, I found about half an acre of ground at Brompton -covered with mushroom-beds bearing well. - -The following illustration is from a sketch taken in Nov. 1869, in -market-garden fields, between Kensington and Brompton. The beds, about -three and a half feet high and the same in width at the base, are -covered with the long straw or litter taken from the stable manure. Over -that is placed old bast mats, or any like materials, to keep the litter -in its place, and throw off the rain; the mats being kept in place by -tiles, bricks, old boards, or any like objects that may be at hand. This -is well shown in my illustration. - -[Illustration: Fig. 26. Mushroom-beds in market-gardens at Earl's Court, -Kensington. November, 1869.] - -The manure employed is that brought from the London stables, the longer -litter being shaken out and put on one side to cover the beds. No care -whatever is taken in the preparation of the manure; it is usually made -into beds soon after it is brought home and before it is allowed to -heat, and then the beds are made in the form of potato-pits and beaten -very firm. The beds are spawned when at about a temperature of eighty -degrees, the pieces of spawn being placed about a foot or so apart, and -it is then immediately earthed, the ordinary soil being used, and the -bed covered to a thickness of a couple of inches. The success attained -by the market-gardeners of both London and Paris, with the ordinary soil -of the place in which the beds may be made, well proves the absurdity of -seeking for any particular kind of soil for covering mushroom-beds. Beds -made in this way in the autumn and winter months, and covered with a -thick layer of litter and mats, seldom require any watering. The culture -is not usually attempted in summer; the heat acting upon the littery -covering giving rise to insects which destroy the mushrooms; but with -care their culture is quite practicable at that season; in proof of -which I may say that during the last week of July, 1868, I saw them -gathered freely in a market-garden just beside the Gloucester Road -Station of the Metropolitan Railway, where by using a coating of litter -about a foot thick, and over that a layer of mats, it was possible to -procure them in good condition throughout the hottest summer within -memory. There are many acres of ground covered with beds made thus in -the market-gardens round London. - -[Illustration: Fig. 27. Uncovered end of mushroom-bed in Paris -market-garden. January, 1867.] - -We will next turn to the culture of the mushroom in the open air near -Paris. In old times the market-gardeners there used to grow it amongst -their ordinary crops with great profit, but since the champignonnistes -cultivate it under no danger from cold in the caves, the -market-gardeners, who used to raise it to a great extent in the open -air, do so now in a less degree. They begin with the preparation of the -manure, and collect that of the horse for a month or six weeks before -they make the beds; this they prepare in some firm spot of the -market-garden, and take from it all rubbish, particles of wood, and -miscellaneous matters; for, say they, the spawn is not fond of these -bodies. After sorting it thus, they place it in beds two feet thick, or -a little more, pressing it with the fork. When this is done the mass or -bed is well stamped, then thoroughly watered, and finally again pressed -down by stamping. It is left in this state for eight or ten days, by -which time it has begun to ferment, after which the bed ought to be well -turned over and re-made on the same place, care being taken to place the -manure that was near the sides of the first-made bed towards the centre -in the turning and re-making. The mass is now left for another ten days -or so, at the end of which time the manure is about in proper condition -for making the beds that are to bear the mushrooms. Little ridge-shaped -beds--about twenty six inches wide and the same in height--are then -formed in parallel lines at a distance of twenty inches one from the -other. - -In a market-garden they may stretch over a considerable extent, their -length being determined by the wants of the grower. The beds once made -of a firm, close-fitting texture, the manure soon begins to warm again, -but does not become unwholesomely hot for the spread of the spawn. When -the beds have been made some days, the cultivator spawns them, having of -course ascertained beforehand that the heat is genial and suitable. -Generally the spawn is inserted within a few inches of the base, and at -about thirteen inches apart in the line. Some cultivators insert two -lines, the second about seven inches above the first. In doing so, it -would of course be well to make the holes for the spawn in an alternate -manner. The spawn is inserted in flakes about the size of three -fingers, and then the manure is closed in over, and pressed firmly -around it. This done, the beds are covered with about six inches of -clean litter. Ten or twelve days afterwards the growers visit the beds, -to see if the spawn has taken well. When they see the white filaments -spreading in the bed they know that the spawn has taken; if not, they -take away the spawn they suppose to be bad and replace it with better. -But, using good spawn, and being practised hands at the work, they -rarely fail in this particular; and when the spawn is seen spreading -well through the bed, then, and not before, they cover the beds with -fresh sweet soil to the depth of about an inch or so. For cover, the -little pathway between the beds is simply loosened up, and the rich soil -of the market-garden applied equably, firmly, and smoothly with a -shovel. With these open-air beds they succeed in getting mushrooms in -winter. A covering of abundance of litter is put on immediately after -the beds are earthed, and kept there as a protection. They have not long -to wait till the beds are in full bearing, and when they are in that -state it is thought better to examine and gather from them every second -day, or even every day where there are many beds. And thus they grow -excellent mushrooms, and in great quantity, all the further attention -required being to renew the covering when it gets rotten, and an -occasional watering in a very dry season. - -Of course this kind of cultivation is perfectly practicable in private -gardens--where, however, I have not yet seen it carried out. Where there -is a mushroom-house or empty shed in which mushrooms may be grown, there -would be less occasion to pursue it, but there are many places in which -no such conveniences exist. In any case it is desirable that gardeners -generally should know to what a large extent this phase of the culture -is pursued round London and Paris, and how simply it is done. Instead of -mats, it would be an improvement to cover the beds with tarpaulin or -some other cheap material that would keep out the wet. - - - - -CHAPTER VIII. - -CULTURE IN GARDENS, ETC., WITH OTHER CROPS IN THE OPEN AIR. - - -THIS is a phase of culture which may be pursued to great advantage in -every private garden, almost without cost and attention. The low -ridge-like hotbeds, for example, made for both long and short prickly -cucumbers, gourds, marrows, &c., are admirably suited for growing a crop -of mushrooms under the leaves of the subjects for which they were made. -If the spawn be inserted soon after the beds are made, or at any -convenient time in early summer, the beds will come into bearing in due -course. Perhaps they may do so when mushrooms are found abundantly in -the fields; but there are thousands of persons possessing gardens who -have no fields in which to cull mushrooms, and who would like to gather -them fresh in summer or autumn, if they could not afford to grow them in -any covered structure in winter. And this is but one way in which they -may be grown with summer garden crops, as will appear from the following -communication, by Mr. Ayres, to the _Field_:-- - -"The finest crop and the best mushrooms I ever saw were grown in the -open ground, and without any protection at all. I will tell you how it -happened. Some years back I had the charge of the garden of a noted -hunting establishment in Northamptonshire, one of the aids to success -being that the manure of an average of nearly fifty highly-fed horses -went to the garden, the owner remarking that, whatever other things I -might run short of, there would be plenty of 'muck.' Well, the best of -the hunters during the summer were soiled in loose boxes, principally -under cover, and in these boxes the manure was allowed to accumulate -until it began to grow too hot for the feet of the horses; then it was -indispensable that it should be removed. About midsummer it so happened -that nearly three acres of ground had been cleared of the spring crop, -spinach, early peas, beans, &c., and I had determined to devote the -whole plot to winter brassicas, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, &c. The -ground was brashy and very poor, and consequently I determined to clear -the boxes and put the whole of the manure upon it. It was carted away so -rich in ammonia that the men who loaded it shed tears, not from -sentiment, but from compulsion; and when the manure was spread upon the -surface it was nothing less than a foot thick--so thick, that the -proprietor said it was impossible for it to be dug into the ground. -However, clearing a trench at one end of the piece, thirty inches wide -and nearly a foot deep, the subsoil was broken up with strong steel -forks, and upon that the dung covering the next strip was placed, and -covered with the surface soil of the next trench; and so the work -proceeded until the manure was put out of sight. I may remark that the -dung, especially that around the walls, contained evidence of being -strongly impregnated with mushroom spawn, though this was not regarded -as being likely to produce a crop of the esculent. A soaking rain -falling, the ground was immediately planted with brassicas, which grew -as if they could not help growing--and in fact they could not. - -"We had not planted for mushrooms, nor were mushrooms expected; but, -walking round one morning early in September, a bunch of splendid -fellows presented themselves, so large and thick and solid, that when I -took them in for breakfast my _chef de cuisine_ and 'better half' had -grave doubts as to whether they were 'the real thing.' However, they -were eaten, and the present writing is a proof that they did not poison -me. Returning to the plot, I found the bunch gathered was not a solitary -one--on the contrary, the ground was literally paved with mushrooms, -many of them so large that bushels were gathered for ketchup within a -few hours; while the retainers of a large establishment, down to the -lowest labourer, were in a fortnight positively sick of them, and -cartloads rotted upon the ground. - -"The evidence of this unexpected success demonstrated two things--first, -that if the ground is freely manured with _fresh_ dung from well-fed -horses, mushrooms are almost sure to be produced; and, secondly, that -the more the ground is covered with the foliage of plants, the more -certain will be the crop. Thus we found more mushrooms under savoys and -broccoli than under Brussels sprouts--the former no doubt protecting the -crop from heavy drenches of rain, which we know are very injurious to -the mushroom crop. Since this example of mushroom-growing turned up, -nearly fifteen years ago, I have frequently concentrated the fresh -manure under a row of savoys or broccoli, throwing in at the same time a -dust of mushroom spawn or the dung of a spent mushroom bed; and, except -in very wet seasons, I have rarely failed to have a fine supply during -the months of September and October. One point of success I believe to -be essentially necessary, and that is, that water shall have a free -passage through the ground at all times; hence the necessity of -trenching the ground, if you expect mushrooms as well as brassicas." - -Even in gardens where mushrooms are well grown in enclosed structures -such results in early autumn will often be desirable; while in numbers -of places where there are few or no opportunities of gathering them in -abundance under other circumstances, crops in the garden will be very -welcome. Therefore utilise the old mushroom-beds! - - - - -CHAPTER IX. - -MUSHROOM CULTURE IN PASTURES, ETC. - - -NOTWITHSTANDING the extreme abundance of the common mushroom in the -meadows and pastures of the British islands, and probably in similar -positions all the world over, it is scarce in many situations, and, it -may be, not a few persons would be willing to make it of more frequent -occurrence in their fields. There is an opinion not uncommon that this -cannot be done; that the mushroom is, to a great extent, a creature of -chance, and that it cannot be cultivated. This is not a philosophical -notion: there can be no doubt that the mushroom has to abide the results -of the struggle for life as well as any other species of plant. -Considering that we have taken the spawn from the fields and cultivated -it with great success in all sorts of positions, none of which it could -ever inhabit naturally, it is absurd to suppose that we cannot induce it -to grow in positions exactly similar to its native habitat. Found in -open, sunny meadows and pastures, and avoiding the shade of trees, it is -grown, as we have seen, in dark and deep mines; yet people suppose it -cannot be grown in those pastures in which it happens not to be found. -It is erroneously inferred that there is something in its constitution -or habit which causes it to occur in certain spots exclusively; but as -well might we say this of any other plant. We know well that hundreds of -native plants are hardy enough to grow almost anywhere, yet how many of -them are but locally distributed and rare! Again, many plants are weeds -in one district and unknown in another, perhaps, neighbouring one. - -As the Rev. M. J. Berkeley remarks:--"It is almost useless to advert to -the notion, though a very common one, which would regard these -productions as the creatures of chance or of a happy concurrence of -circumstances favourable to their growth from inorganic elements. It is -true they often occur in unexpected situations, and from their extreme -rapidity of development seem as if they could not have originated from -anything like seed. But, as accurate inquiry has now thrown much light -on the mystery in which the origin of intestinal worms was lately -involved, so the phenomena which attend the growth of fungi are -gradually receiving light, and they are found to follow essentially the -same laws as more perfect vegetables." It is, in fact, quite fair to -conclude that mushrooms, like most other plants, occupy but a small -space in the vast expanse of soil and site which are naturally adapted -for their growth. I read in a gardening journal that "it is impossible -to command a crop of out-door mushrooms." I am positive that it can be -done with almost as much certainty as any other crop, provided we take -into consideration certain conditions. Of course, we must remember its -natural wants; the more we do so, the more certain of success we may be. -We know that it grows most abundantly in rich, upland pastures where -water does not lie, associated with the meadow foxtail, meadow and hard -fescue and cock's-foot grasses, clovers, cowslips, daisies, yarrow, &c., -and also with the thistles (_Cnicus lanceolatus_ and _C. arvensis_), and -other plants fond of similar soils. We know that it is rarely found -where the marsh plume-thistle (_Cnicus palustris_), tufted hair-grass, -and other marsh grasses and plants abound, and from the presence or -absence of these plants we may easily make up our minds as to the -positions that suit it best. Now, it has long since been proved in -gardens that it is quite possible to cultivate plants to a much higher -degree of perfection than they ever attain in a wild state, under -conditions entirely different, and it is not improbable that we should -be able to grow the common mushroom in soils and positions far removed -from those in which it naturally occurs. But there is no occasion for -anything of the kind. It loves well-drained and dry pastures and -meadows, and is not the country covered with such? - -After selecting the position in which we wish to propagate mushrooms, -and no moderately dry pastureland need be without them, the next thing -to consider is the providing of the spawn. Hitherto this has probably -been the great difficulty. When nearly 20_l._ worth of mushroom spawn -was annually used in the mushroom-houses of a large garden, the expense -necessary to spawn a large pasture might well alarm the richest of -mushroom-loving landholders; but there is not the slightest occasion for -purchasing the spawn for this purpose. Every farmer and country -gentleman can make it as easily as, or more easily than, the -spawn-manufacturer, without any expense or inconvenience, the essential -thing being a quantity of rather short stable-manure. - -Where this is gathered in large heaps it will be easy to obtain the -requisite materials at once. Where it is not so, a few loads of stable -manure unmixed with long straw may be thrown together in the open air -and prepared for the purpose. There is no occasion to place it in a shed -of any kind, though if there be one at hand so much the better. If -prepared in the open air it should be on a dry place; the materials -should be subjected to exactly the same preparation as when used for -making a mushroom-bed, before described. They should be made into a -potato-pit-shaped bed, and spawned in the usual manner. For this -spawning it is of course necessary to obtain a little spawn, whether -home-made or bought from the seedsman, or found in what the French call -"a virgin condition" in the dunghill. In any case it will not be found -difficult to spawn one or more beds in this way, particularly as there -is nothing to prevent people drying as much home-made spawn at one time -as will suffice for a year or more. The spawn should be allowed to run -through this bed, which should be covered with a slight sprinkling of -earth, and beaten pretty firm. When it has penetrated through the bed, -it should, just before it arrives at a bearing condition, be ready to be -used as spawn. The number of beds to be spawned in this way may be -limited according to the extent of ground on which it is proposed to -grow the mushrooms. This spawn may be inserted in the meadows in early -summer, the most suitable time is in genial weather in May, and the -spawn should be inserted in holes from six to ten feet apart. - -The most expeditious and best way of inserting it is that termed -T-planting, striking the spade in the line represented by the -perpendicular of the T, and then in the horizontal one on the top, -pressing the spade back when in the last position, so as to readily -admit of the insertion of one or more pieces of spawn. The kind of spawn -made as I have recommended usually falls into small pieces, more likely -to impregnate the earth quickly than the stiff, brick-like pieces of -nursery spawn. The ground, after the insertion of the spawn, should be -pressed firm with the foot. As to the depth at which the spawn should -be deposited, it would be better not to put it at any given depth, but -so that while one piece of a flake may be at a depth of six inches or -nearly so, others may touch the very surface. This, it need hardly be -pointed out, would allow of the spawn vegetating at the depth and -temperature most congenial to it. It would be most desirable to spawn at -slightly different times, and, if possible, with different samples of -spawn: thus, for example, it would be well to use a mixture of old and -dried spawn with that taken fresh from one of the beds alluded to. If -this were not convenient, some part of the large bed of spawn might be -laid by to dry, and used a week or two afterwards. Probably the most -economical way of doing this on a large scale would be by employing a -number of boys, guided by an experienced workman. - -It is scarcely desirable to attempt the culture in kept lawns, as no -matter how suitable these are for it, the appearance of a large crop of -mushrooms would have anything but a tendency to beautify the carpet of -turf, and would probably become offensive from their odour. - -The preceding refers to the cultivation of mushrooms in pastures, -meadows, &c. There is not the slightest reason why a similar course of -culture would not succeed in fields amongst green crops. As large crops -of mushrooms have been produced in gardens under broccoli, &c., there is -no reason whatever why they might not be grown in the same manner under -field-turnips, mangold-wurtzel, &c. The spawn which could be so easily -prepared by any farmer, could be readily inserted in the sides of the -drills in which these crops are usually grown, the slight elevation of -which, by preserving the spawn from excessive wet, will favour its -development, and it would take possession of, and impregnate the manure -in the drill. In fact, prodigious quantities might be raised in this and -similar ways, with but little trouble; and should the fields be -afterwards laid down, as is not uncommonly the case, the pasture or -meadow would probably become a regular mushroom-ground. - - - - -CHAPTER X. - -THE COMMON MUSHROOMS. - - -_Agaricus campestris_ (True Meadow Mushroom). - -THE common meadow mushroom varies considerably, but, "common to all are -a fleshy _pileus_, which is sometimes smooth, sometimes scaly, in colour -white, or of different shades of tawny, fuliginous, or brown; _gills_ -free, at first pallid, then flesh-coloured, then pink, next purple, at -length tawny-black; the _stem_ white, full, firm, varying in shape, -furnished with a white persistent ring; the _spores_ brown-black, and a -volva which is very _fugacious_."--_Badham's Esculent Funguses of -England._ - -[Illustration: Fig. 28. _Agaricus campestris_ (the True Meadow -Mushroom). Pastures, autumn; colour, white or pale brown; gills, salmon, -at length black; diameter, 3 to 6 inches. The spores are magnified 700 -diameters.] - -There is scarcely any one in England who does not feel himself competent -to decide on the genuineness of a mushroom; its pink gills easily -distinguish it from a kindred fungus, _Ag. arvensis_, the gills of which -are of a flesh-coloured grey, and out of the pickings of ten thousand -hands, a mistake is of rare occurrence; and yet no fungus presents -itself under such a variety of forms, or such singular diversities of -aspect! The inference is plain; less discrimination than that employed -to distinguish this would enable anyone who should take the trouble to -recognise at a glance many of those esculent species, which every -spring and autumn fill our plantations and pastures with plenteousness. -Neither is this left to be a mere matter of inference; it is -corroborated in a singular manner by what takes place at Rome; there, -whilst many hundred baskets of what we call toadstools are carried home -for the table, almost the only one condemned to be thrown into the -Tiber, by the inspector of the fungus market, is our own mushroom; -indeed, in such dread is this held in the Papal States, that no one -knowingly would touch it. "It is reckoned one of the fiercest -imprecations," writes Professor Sanguinetti, "amongst our lower orders, -infamous for the horrible nature of their oaths, to pray that one may -die of a _Pratiolo_;" and although it has been some years registered -among the esculent funguses of Milan and Pavia (on the authority of -Vittadini), it has not yet found its way into those markets. Mr. -Worthington G. Smith, in his "Mushrooms and Toad-stools," qualifies this -statement of Dr. Badham. - -_Agaricus campestris_ is not generally appreciated in Italy, and indeed -is seldom eaten, and never appears in the markets, for the simple reason -that there would be no sale for it. There is an edict in existence -ordering certain fungi to be thrown into the Tiber, but it is now, and -has long been altogether effete; and whilst there is an abundance of _A. -Caesareus_ (avowedly the most delicious of all fungi) for the markets of -Italy, it is not to be expected the consumption will be given up for -another and little known species. - -_The Modes of Cooking this Species._--"The mushroom, having the same -proximate principles as meat, requires, like meat, to be cooked before -these become changed. The _Ag. campestris_ may be prepared in a great -variety of ways: they give a fine flavour to soup, and greatly improve -beef-tea; where arrowroot and weak broths are distasteful to the -patient, the simple seasoning of a little ketchup will frequently form -an agreeable change. Some roast them, basting with melted butter and -white (French) wine sauce. In patties and _vols-au-vent_ they are -equally excellent; in fricassees, as everybody knows, they are the -important element of the dish. Roques recommends in all cases the -removal of the gills before dressing, which though it secures a more -elegant-looking _entremets_, is only flattering the eye at the expense -of the palate."--_Badham._ - - -_Agaricus arvensis_ (Horse-Mushroom). - -"_Pileus_ fleshy, obtusely conico-campanulate, then expanded, at first -floccose, then smooth, even, or rivulose; _stem_ hollow, with a floccose -pith; _ring_ broad, pendulous, double, the outer split in rays; _gills_ -free, wider in front, at first dirty white, then brown, tinged with -pink."--_Berkeley's Outlines of British Fungology._ - -[Illustration: Fig. 29. _Agaricus arvensis_ (Horse-Mushroom). Pastures, -in autumn; colour, yellowish; gills pallid, at length black; diameter, 6 -to 24 in.] - -"This species is very nearly allied to the meadow mushroom, and -frequently grows with it, but it is coarser, and has not the delicious -flavour. It is usually much larger, often attaining enormous dimensions; -it turns a brownish yellow as soon as broken or bruised. The top in good -specimens is smooth, and snowy white; the gills are not the pure pink of -the meadow mushroom, but dirty brownish white, ultimately becoming -brown-black. It has a big, ragged, floccose ring, and the pithy stem is -inclined to be hollow. It is _the_ species exposed for sale in Covent -Garden Market. Indeed, after knowing the market for many years, I have -rarely seen any other species there; when the true mushroom, however, -_is_ there, it is frequently mingled with horse mushrooms, which seems -to show that the dealers do not know one from the other. In the wet days -of autumn, children, idlers, and beggars go a few miles from town into -the meadows to gather whatever they can find in the mushroom line; they -then bring their dirty stock to market, where it is sold to fashionable -purchasers; stale, vapid, and without taste--unless it be a bad one. - -"When young and fresh, the horse mushroom is a most desirable addition -to the bill of fare: it yields an abundant gravy, and the flesh is firm -and delicious. It is a valuable plant when freshly gathered, but when -stale it becomes tough and leathery, and without aroma or juice. - -"There is a curious, large, brown, hairy variety, of rather uncommon -occurrence, similar to the hairy variety of the meadow mushroom, the _A. -villaticus_ of Dr. Badham. It is a splendid form, but, I think, very -rare. I have only seen it once. - -"Many country-folk readily distinguish the meadow from the horse -mushroom, and show antipathy to the latter, although they are always -willing to put it into the jar as one of the ingredients of ketchup. -Opinions appear to differ greatly regarding the excellence of this -species. Mr. Penrose writes:--'I think young, and especially button, -specimens of this very indigestible; until they are well opened out, -they are unfit for use.' Such, however, I must say, is not my experience -of button specimens. - -"There is a strong odour attached both to the fungus and the spawn, the -ground just below the surface being frequently white with the latter; or -if horse-dung be kicked aside in a rich meadow frequented by -graminivorous animals, the earth will frequently present a snowy -whiteness from the spawn of this species, from which the young -individuals may be seen springing up. - -"I once saw a sheep eat a large specimen with great apparent gusto, -although the fungus was full of maggots."--_Worthington G. Smith._ - - - - -CHAPTER XI. - -MODES OF COOKING THE COMMON MUSHROOMS. - - -THE following modes of cooking mushrooms may prove useful to some:-- - -_To Stew Mushrooms._--Trim and rub clean half a pint of large button -mushrooms; put into a stew-pan two ounces of butter, shake it over the -fire till thoroughly melted; put in the mushrooms, a tea-spoonful of -salt, half as much pepper, and a blade of mace pounded; stew till the -mushrooms are tender, then serve them on a hot dish. They are usually -sent in as a breakfast dish, thus prepared in butter. - -_Mushrooms a la Creme._--Trim and rub half a pint of button mushrooms, -dissolve two ounces of butter rolled in flour in a stew-pan; then put in -the mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, a tea-spoonful of salt, half a -tea-spoonful each of white pepper and of powdered sugar, shake the pan -round for ten minutes, then beat up the yolks of two eggs, with two -table-spoonfuls of cream, and add by degrees to the mushrooms; in two or -three minutes you can serve them in the sauce. - -_Mushrooms on Toast._--Put a pint of mushrooms into a stew-pan, with two -ounces of butter rolled in flour; add a tea-spoonful of salt, half a -tea-spoonful of white pepper, a blade of mace powdered, and half a -tea-spoonful of grated lemon; stew till the butter is all absorbed, then -add as much white _roux_ as will moisten the mushrooms; fry a slice of -bread in butter, to fit the dish, and as soon as the mushrooms are -tender serve them on the toast. - -_To Pot Mushrooms._--The small open mushrooms suit best for potting. -Trim and rub them; put into a stew-pan a quart of mushrooms, three -ounces of butter, two tea-spoonfuls of salt, and half a tea-spoonful of -Cayenne and mace mixed, and stew for ten or fifteen minutes, or till the -mushrooms are tender; take them carefully out and drain them perfectly -on a sloping dish, and when cold press them into small pots, and pour -clarified butter over them, in which state they will keep for a week or -two. If required to be longer preserved, put writing paper over the -butter, and over that melted suet, which will effectually preserve them -for many weeks, if kept in a dry, cool place. - -_To Pickle Mushrooms._--Select a number of small, sound, pasture -mushrooms as nearly as possible alike in size; throw them for a few -minutes into cold water; then drain them; cut off the stalks, and gently -rub off the outer skin with a moist flannel dipped in salt; then boil -the vinegar, adding to each quart two ounces of salt, half a nutmeg -sliced, a drachm of mace, and an ounce of white pepper-corns; put the -mushrooms into the vinegar for ten minutes over the fire; then pour the -whole into small jars, taking care that the spices are equally divided; -let them stand a day, then cover them. - -_Another Method._--In pickling mushrooms take the buttons only and while -they are quite close, cut the stem off even with the gills and rub them -quite clean. Lay them in salt and water for forty-eight hours, and then -add pepper, and vinegar in which black pepper and a little mace have -been boiled. The vinegar must be applied cold. So pickled they will keep -for years. - -_Mushrooms en Ragout._--Put into a stew-pan a little stock, a small -quantity of vinegar, parsley, and green onions chopped up, salt, and -spices. When this is about to boil, the mushrooms being cleaned, put -them in. When done remove them from the fire, and thicken with yolks of -eggs. - -_Mushrooms and Toast._--Peel the mushrooms, and take out the stems. Fry -them over a quick fire. When the butter is melted take off the pan. -Squeeze the juice of a lemon into it. Let the mushrooms fry again for -some minutes. Add salt, pepper, spices, and a spoonful of water, in -which a clove of garlic, having been cut into pieces, has soaked for -half an hour; let it stew. When the mushrooms are done, make a -thickening of yolks of eggs. Pour the mushrooms on bread fried in -butter, and laid in the dish ready for them. - -_Mushrooms en Caisse._--Peel the mushrooms lightly, and cut them into -pieces. Put them into cases of buttered paper, with a bit of butter, -parsley, green onions, and shalots chopped up, salt and pepper. Dress -them on the gridiron over a gentle fire, and serve in the cases. - -_Mushrooms a la Provencale._--Take mushrooms of good size. Remove the -stems, and soak them in olive oil. Cut up the stems with a clove of -garlic and some parsley. Add meat of sausages, and two yolks of eggs to -unite them. Dish the mushrooms, and garnish them with the forcemeat. -Sprinkle them with fine oil, and dress them in an oven, or in a _four de -campagne_. - -_Baked Mushrooms._--Peel the tops of twenty mushrooms; cut off a portion -of the stalks, and wipe them carefully with a piece of flannel dipped in -salt. Lay the mushrooms in a tin dish, put a small piece of butter on -the top of each, and season them with pepper and salt. Set the dish in -the oven, and bake them from twenty minutes to half an hour. When done, -arrange them high in the centre of a very hot dish, pour the sauce round -them, and serve quickly, and as hot as you possibly can. - -_Mushrooms au Gratin._--Take twelve large mushrooms about two inches in -diameter, pare the stalks, wash, and drain the mushrooms on a cloth; cut -off and chop the stalks. Put in a quart stew-pan an ounce of butter and -half an ounce of flour; stir over the fire for two minutes; then add one -pint of broth; stir till reduced to half the quantity. Drain the chopped -stalks of the mushrooms thoroughly in a cloth; put them in the sauce -with three table-spoonfuls of chopped and washed parsley, one -table-spoonful of chopped and washed shalot, two pinches of salt, a -small pinch of pepper; reduce on a brisk fire for eight minutes, put two -table-spoonfuls of oil in a _saute_ pan; set the mushrooms in, the -hollow part upwards; fill them with the fine herbs, and sprinkle over -them lightly a table-spoonful of raspings; put in a brisk oven for ten -minutes, and serve. - -_Mushroom Soup._--Take a good quantity of mushrooms, cut off the earthy -end, and pick and wash them. Stew them with some butter, pepper, and -salt in a little good stock till tender; take them out, and chop them up -quite small; prepare a good stock as for any other soup, and add it to -the mushrooms and the liquor they have been stewed in. Boil all -together, and serve. If white soup be desired, use the white button -mushrooms, and a good veal stock, adding a spoonful of cream or a little -milk, as the colour may require. - -The following "family receipts" have been communicated by a friend: - -Clean a dozen or so of medium-size, place two or three ounces of nice -clean beef-dripping in the frying-pan, and with it a table-spoonful or -more of nice beef gravy. Set the pan on a gentle fire, and as the -dripping melts place in the mushrooms, adding salt and pepper to taste. -In a few minutes they will be cooked, and being soaked in the gravy and -served upon a hot plate, will form a capital dish. In the absence of -gravy, a _soupcon_ of "extractum carnis" may be substituted. - -_Mushrooms with Bacon._--Take some full-grown mushrooms, and having -cleaned them, procure a few rashers of nice streaky bacon, and fry it in -the usual manner. When nearly done, add a dozen or so of mushrooms, and -fry them slowly until they are cooked. In this process they will absorb -all the fat of the bacon, and with the addition of a little salt and -pepper, will form a most appetising breakfast relish. - -_Mushroom Stems_, if young and fresh, make a capital dish for those who -are not privileged to eat the mushrooms. Rub them quite clean, and after -washing them in salt and water, slice them to the thickness of a -shilling, then place them in a saucepan with sufficient milk to stew -them tender; throw in a piece of butter and some flour for thickening, -and salt and pepper to taste. Serve upon a toast of bread, in a hot -dish, and add sippets of toasted bread. This makes a light and very -delicate supper dish, and is not bad sauce to a boiled fowl. - - - - -CHAPTER XII. - -SOME OF THE MOST COMMON AND USEFUL EDIBLE FUNGI. - - - "Whole hundredweights of rich, wholesome diet rotting under - the trees; woods teeming with food, and not one hand to gather - it; and this, perhaps, in the midst of potato-blight, poverty, - and all manner of privations, and public prayers against - imminent famine." - _Dr. Badham._ - -VALUABLE as is the common mushroom, it is indisputable that not a few -other kinds are also capable of affording excellent food. Therefore, -figures are given of the most prevalent, useful, and easily recognised -kinds of edible fungi, as well as of the common mushrooms of our gardens -and markets. These figures have been admirably drawn by Mr. W. G. Smith, -and are accompanied by what seemed the most satisfactory accounts of the -characters and properties that are obtainable. The spores which -accompany the figures are uniformly enlarged seven hundred diameters. - - -_Marasmius oreades_ (Fairy-ring Champignon). - -_Pileus_ smooth, fleshy, convex, subumbonate, generally more or less -compressed, tough, coriaceous, elastic, wrinkled; when water-soaked, -brown; when dry, of a buff or cream-colour, the umbo often remaining -red-brown, as if scorched; _gills_ free, distant, ventricose, of the -same tint as the pileus, but more pale; _stem_ equal, solid, twisted, -very tough and fibrous, of a pale silky-white colour. - -[Illustration: Fig. 30--1. _Marasmius oreades_ (Fairy-ring Champignon). -Pastures, roadsides, and downs, in the autumn; colour, pale buff; _gills -broad and far apart_; diameter, 1 to 2 inches. - -Fig. 30--2. _Marasmius urens_ (False Champignon). Woods and pastures in -the autumn; colour, pale buff; _gills narrow and crowded together_; -diameter, 1/2 inch to 11/2 inches.] - -The fairy-ring agaric is a valuable little fungus, and common on almost -every lawn. In hilly pastures it generally appears in broad brown -patches, either circular or forming a portion of a circle. - -_M. urens_, the most acrid of all allied funguses, usually grows in -woods, though sometimes in the fairy-ring. However, its flat top and -narrow crowded gills cause it to be readily distinguished anywhere. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Marasmius oreades as an edible Fungus._--"On -the Continent this species has long been considered edible, but on -account of its coriaceous texture it is dried and employed in the form -of powder, to season various made-dishes."--_Dr. Greville._ - -"The common fairy-ring champignon is the best of all our funguses, yet -there is scarcely one person in a thousand who dare venture to use it. -With common observation no mistake need be made with regard to it. It -has an extremely fine flavour, and makes perhaps the very best ketchup -that there is."--_Rev. M. J. Berkeley._ - -"An excellent flavour, as good as that of most funguses."--_Dr. Badham._ - -_Modes of Cooking Marasmius oreades._--_General Use._--"Cut in small -pieces and seasoned it makes an excellent addition to stews, hashes, or -fried meats, but it should only be added a few minutes before serving, -as the aroma is dissipated by over cooking. It is the mushroom used in -the French _a la mode_ beef-shops in London."--_Dr. Badham._ - -When stewed, the champignons require rather longer time to ensure their -being made perfectly tender. They are readily dried by removing the -stems from the fungus, threading them on a string, and hanging them up -in a dry airy place. "When dried, it may be kept for years without -losing any of its aroma or goodness, which, on the contrary, becomes -improved by the process, so as, in fact, to impart more flavour to the -dish than would have been imparted by the fresh fungus; though it is not -to be denied that the flesh then becomes coriaceous (or tough), and less -easy of digestion."--_Dr. Badham._ - -_Champignon Powder._--Put the champignons in a stew-pan with a little -mace and a few cloves, and a sprinkling of white pepper. Simmer, and -shake constantly to prevent burning, until any liquor that may exude is -dried up again. Dry thoroughly in a warm oven until they will easily -powder. Put the dried agaric, or the powder, into wide-mouthed glass -bottles, and store in a dry place. It will keep any length of time. A -tea-spoonful added to any soup, or gravy, or sauce, just before the last -boil is given, will produce a very fine mushroom flavour. - -_Pickled Champignons._--Collect fresh buttons of the fairy-ring agaric -and use them at once. Cut off the stems quite close and throw each one -as you do so into a basin of water in which a spoonful of salt has been -put. Drain them from it quickly afterwards, and place them on a soft -cloth to dry. For each quart of buttons thus prepared, take nearly a -quart of pale white wine vinegar, and add to it a heaped tea-spoonful of -salt, half an ounce of whole white pepper, an ounce of ginger-root -bruised, two large blades of mace, and a fourth of a salt-spoon of -cayenne pepper tied in a small piece of muslin. When this pickle boils -throw in the agarics and boil them in it over a clear fire moderately -fast, from six to nine minutes. When tolerably tender put them into -_warm_ wide-mouthed bottles, and divide the spice equally amongst them. -When perfectly cold, cork well, or tie skins and paper over them. Store -in a dry place, and keep out the frost. - -Full-sized champignons may be pickled exactly in the same way, but will -require longer boiling, until indeed they become tender.--_Modified from -Miss Acton._ - -_Champignons quickly Pickled._--Place the prepared buttons in bottles -with a blade of mace, a tea-spoonful of pepper-corns, and a tea-spoonful -of mustard seed in each, and cover with the strongest white wine -pickling vinegar boiling hot. Cork or tie down as before, but do not -expect them to keep above three months. - - -_Agaricus procerus_ (the Parasol Agaric). - -[Illustration: Fig. 31. _Agaricus procerus_ (Scaly Mushroom). Pastures, -&c., in autumn; colour, pale brownish buff; diameter, 5 to 12 inches.] - -_Pileus_ fleshy, ovate when young, then campanulate, and afterwards -expanded and umbonate (blunt pointed), from three to seven inches -across. Cuticle more or less brown, entire over the umbo, but torn into -patches, or scales which become more and more separated as they approach -the margin. Flesh white. _Gills_ unconnected with the stem, fixed to a -collar on the pileus surrounding its top. _Ring_ persistent, loose on -the stem. _Stem_ six or eight inches high, tapering upwards from a -pear-like bulb at the root, hollow with a loose pith, whitish brown, -but more or less variegated with small and close-pressed scales. - -Whenever an agaric on _a long stalk_, enlarged _at the base_, presents -_a dry cuticle_ more or less _scaly_, a darker coloured _umbonated top_, -_a moveable ring_, and _white_ gills, it must be _Agaricus procerus_, -the parasol agaric, and it may be gathered and eaten without fear. When -the whitish flesh of this agaric is bruised it shows a light reddish -colour. - -There are but two other agarics that at all resemble it, and both are -edible. One about the same size is _Agaricus rachodes_. It is not -generally considered so good in flavour as _A. procerus_. Mrs. Hussey, -however, says plainly, "If _Agaricus procerus_ is the king of edible -funguses, _Agaricus rachodes_ is an excellent viceroy." The other is the -_Agaricus excoriatus_, a very much smaller fungus, with a more slender -habit, a shorter stem, and no true bulb at the base. This elegant little -fungus is also very good eating. - -The parasol agaric has a very wide range of growth. It is a common -fungus, and is in _high request all over the Continent_. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus procerus as an Edible Fungus._--"A -most excellent mushroom, of a delicate flavour, and it must be -considered a most useful species."--_The Rev. M. J. Berkeley._ - -"Were its excellent qualities better known here, they could not fail to -secure it a general reception into our best kitchens, and a frequent -place among our side dishes at table."--_Dr. Badham._ - -"If once tried, it must please the most fastidious."--_Worthington G. -Smith._ - -There can be no question but that, when young and quickly grown, the -parasol agaric is a delicious fungus. It has a light and delicate -flavour without the heavy richness which belongs to the ordinary field -mushroom. The writer has prevailed on many persons to try it; all -without exception have liked it, many have thought it quite equal, and -some have proclaimed it superior, to the common mushroom. - -_Modes of Cooking the Agaricus procerus._--_Broiled Procerus._--Remove the -scales and stalks from the agarics, and broil lightly over a clear fire -on both sides for a few minutes; arrange them on a dish over fresh-made, -well-divided toast; sprinkle with pepper and salt, and put a small piece -of butter on each; set before a brisk fire to melt the butter, and serve -up quickly. - -If the cottager would toast his bacon over the broiled mushrooms, the -butter would be saved. - -_Agarics delicately Stewed._--Remove the stalks and scales from young -half-grown agarics, and throw each one as you do so into a basin of -fresh water slightly acidulated with the juice of a lemon, or a little -good vinegar. When all are prepared, remove them from the water, and -put them into a stew-pan with a very small piece of fresh butter. -Sprinkle with white pepper and salt, and add a little lemon-juice; cover -up closely, and stew for half an hour. Then add a spoonful of flour, -with sufficient cream, or cream and milk, until the whole has the -thickness of cream. Season to taste, and stew again gently until the -agarics are perfectly tender. Remove all the butter from the surface, -and serve in a hot dish, garnished with slices of lemon. - -A little mace, nutmeg, or ketchup may be added; but there are those who -think that spice spoils the mushroom flavour. - -_Cottager's Procerus Pie._--Cut fresh agarics in small pieces, and cover -the bottom of a pie-dish. Pepper, salt, and place them on small shreds -of fresh bacon, then put in a layer of mashed potatoes, and so fill the -dish, layer by layer, with a cover of mashed potatoes for the crust. -Bake well for half an hour, and brown before a quick fire. - -_A la Provencale._--"Steep for two hours in some salt, pepper, and a -little garlic; then toss in a small stew-pan over a brisk fire, with -parsley chopped, and a little lemon-juice."--_Dr. Badham._ - -_Agaric Ketchup._--Place agarics of as large a size as you can procure, -but which are not worm-eaten, layer by layer, in a deep pan, sprinkling -each layer as it is put in with a little salt. The next day stir them -well up several times, so as to mash and extract their juice. On the -third day strain off the liquor, measure, and boil for ten minutes, and -then to every pint of the liquor add half an ounce of black pepper, a -quarter of an ounce of bruised ginger-root, a blade of mace, a clove or -two, and a tea-spoonful of mustard-seed. Boil again for half an hour; -put in two or three bay leaves, and set aside till quite cold. Pass -through a strainer, and bottle; cork well, and dip the ends in resin. A -very little Chili vinegar is an improvement, and some add a glass of -port wine, or a glass of strong ale to every bottle. - -Care should be taken that the spice is not added so abundantly as to -overpower the true flavour of the agaric. A careful cook will keep back -a little of the simple boiled liquor to guard against this danger: a -good one will always avoid it. "Doctors weigh their things," said a -capital cook, "but I go by taste." But then, like poets, good cooks of -this order must be born so; they are not to be made. - - -_Coprinus comatus_ (the Maned Agaric). - -_Pileus_ cylindrical, obtuse, campanulate, fleshy in the centre, but -very thin towards the margin. The external surface soon torn up into -fleecy scales, with the exception of a cap at the top. _Gills_ free, -linear, and crowded. Quite white when young, becoming rose-coloured, -sepia, and then black, from the margin upwards. They then expand -quickly, curl up in shreds, and deliquesce into a black inky fluid which -stains the ground. _Stem_ of a pure white, four to five inches high, -contracting at the top, and bulbous at the base; hollow, fibrillose, -stuffed with a light cottony web. The bulb is solid and rooting, the -ring is movable. - -[Illustration: Fig. 32. _Coprinus comatus_ (Maned Mushroom). Pastures, -parks, and roadsides, summer and autumn; colour, snow-white; height, 5 -to 12 inches.] - -This very elegant agaric has also been called _Ag. cylindricus_, -Schoeff; _Ag. typhoides_, Bull; and _Ag. fimetarius_, Bolt. It is -common throughout the summer and autumn months, on road-sides, pastures, -and waste places. It is extremely variable in size. Its general -appearance is so distinct and striking, that it cannot possibly be -mistaken for any other agaric. It grows so abundantly on waste ground in -the dwellings and farm-yards that it may be, says Dr. Bull, called the -"agaric of civilization;" and for both these reasons it is most valuable -as an edible agaric. If its merits were known, it would be eaten as -freely as the common field mushroom. - -"The maned mushrooms," Miss Plues has well said, "grow in dense -clusters, each young plant like an attenuated egg, white and smooth. -Presently some exceed the others in rapidity of growth, and their heads -get above the ground, the stem elongates rapidly, the ring falls loosely -round the stem, the margin of the pileus enlarges, and the oval head -assumes a bell-shape; then a faint tint of brown spreads universally or -in blotches over the upper part of the pileus, and the whiteness of its -gills changes to a dull pink. A few more hours and the even head of the -pileus has split in a dozen places, the sections curl back, melt out of -all form into an inky fluid, and on the morrow's dawn a black stain on -the ground will be all that remains. And so on with the others in -succession." - -_Opinions on the Merits of Coprinus comatus as an Edible -Fungus._--"Esculent when young."--_Berkeley._ - -"Young specimens should be selected."--_Badham._ - -"No despicable dish, though perhaps not quite equal to the common -mushroom."--_M. C. Cooke._ - -"If I had my choice, I think there is no species I should prefer before -this one: it is singularly rich, tender, and delicious."--_Worthington -G. Smith._ - -Dr. M'Cullough, Dr. Chapman, Elmes Y. Steele, Esq., and some other -members of the Woolhope Club, hold Mr. W. G. Smith's opinion as the -result of considerable experience. It must be noted, however, that when -too young this agaric is rather deficient in flavour, and its fibres -tenacious. Its flavour is most rich, and its texture most delicate when -the gills show the pink colour with sepia margins. - -_Modes of Cooking the Coprinus comatus._--The best and simplest method -is to broil it and serve on toast in the ordinary way. It may be added -also with great advantage to steaks and made-dishes, to give flavour and -gravy. - -_Comatus Soup._--Take two quarts of white stock, and put in a large -plateful of the maned agaric roughly broken out; stew until tender; pulp -through a fine sieve; add pepper and salt to taste; boil and serve up -hot. Two or three table-spoonfuls of cream will be a great improvement. - -The agarics for this soup should be young, in order to keep its colour -light and good. The maned agaric is recommended on all sides for making -ketchup, but here, also, it should be quickly used, and the ketchup -quickly made. - - -_Agaricus gambosus_ (the True St. George's Mushroom). - -_Pileus_ thick and fleshy, convex at first, often lobed, becoming -undulated and irregular, expanding unequally; the margin more or less -involute, and at first flocculose; from three to four inches across; of -a light yellow colour in the centre, fading to almost opaque white at -the edges; it is soft to the touch; more or less tuberculated, and often -presenting cracks. _Gills_ yellowish-white, watery, narrow, marginate, -annexed to the stem with a little tooth: they are very numerous and -irregular, with many smaller ones interposed, "lying over each other -like the plaits of a frill" (from 5 to 11, Vittadini). _Stem_ firm, -solid and white, swelling at the base in young specimens; but in older -ones, though usually bulging, they are frequently of even size, and when -in long grass they occasionally even taper downwards. This agaric is -usually nearly white, smooth, soft, and firm, like kid leather to the -touch, and, as Berkeley has happily said, "in appearance it very closely -resembles a cracknel biscuit." - -They grow in rings; have a strong smell, and appear about St. George's -Day (April 23), after the rains which usually fall about the third week -in April. They continue to appear for three or four weeks, according to -the peculiarities of the season. They are usually to be found on hilly -pastures in woodland districts. - -The St. George's mushroom cannot well be mistaken for any other. The -fact of its appearance at this early season, and growing so freely in -rings, when so very few other funguses are to be found, is almost enough -to distinguish it. It has, however, very distinctive characters in -itself in the thickness of its pileus; the narrowness of its gills, -which are very closely crowded together; and the solid bulging stem. - -[Illustration: Fig. 33. _Agaricus gambosus_ (St. George's Mushroom). -Pastures, _in the spring_; colour, cream; diameter, 4 to 6 inches.] - -The St. George's mushroom is not an uncommon agaric in this country, and -where it does appear it is usually plentiful--a single ring affording -generally a good basket full. It should be gathered when young, or it -will be found grub-eaten, for no fungus is more speedily and more -voraciously attacked by insects than this one. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus gambosus as an Edible -Fungus._--"This rare and most delicious agaric, the _mouceron_ of -Bulliard, and the _Agaricus prunulus_ of other authors, abounds on the -hills above the valley of Staffora, near Bobbio, where it is called -_Spinaroli_, and is in great request; the country people eat it fresh in -a variety of ways, or they dry and sell it at from twelve to sixteen -francs a pound."--_Letter from Professor Balbi to Persoon._ - -"The most savoury fungus with which I am acquainted ... and which is -justly considered over almost the whole continent of Europe as the _ne -plus ultra_ of culinary friandise. - -"The _prunulus_ (_gambosus_) is much prized in the Roman market, where -it easily fetches, when fresh, thirty baiocchi--_i.e._, fifteen pence -per pound--a large sum for any luxury in Rome. It is sent in little -baskets as presents to patrons, fees to medical men, and bribes to Roman -lawyers."--_Dr. Badham._ - -The _Agaricus gambosus_ "is one that a person cannot well make any -mistake about. It sometimes attains a large size, is excellent in -flavour, and particularly wholesome."--_Rev. M. J. Berkeley._ - -_Mode of Cooking Agaricus gambosus._--"The best mode of cooking -_Agaricus gambosus_ is either to mince or fricassee it with any sort of -meat, or in a _vol-au-vent_, the flavour of which it greatly improves; -or simply prepared with salt, pepper, and a small piece of bacon, lard, -or butter, to prevent burning, it constitutes of itself an excellent -dish."--_Dr. Badham._ "Served with white sauce, it is a capital -appendage to roast veal."--_Edwin Lees._ It may be broiled, stewed, or -baked. - -_Breakfast Agaric._--Place some fresh-made toast, nicely divided, on a -dish, and put the agarics upon it; pepper, salt, and put a small piece -of butter on each; then pour on each one a tea-spoonful of milk or -cream, and add a single clove to the whole dish. Place a bell-glass, or -inverted basin, over the whole; bake twenty minutes, and serve up -without removing the glass until it comes to the table, so as to -preserve the heat and the aroma, which, on lifting the cover, will be -diffused through the room. It dries very readily when divided into -pieces, and retains most of its excellence. A few pieces added to soups, -gravies, or made-dishes, give a delicious flavour. - - -_Agaricus rubescens_ (Brown Warty Agaric). - -[Illustration: Fig. 34. _Agaricus rubescens_ (Red-fleshed Mushroom). -Woods, summer and autumn; colour, sienna-brown; diameter, 4 to 10 -inches.] - -_Pileus_ convex, then expanded, cuticle brown, scattered over with warts -varying in size. Margin striate. _Gills_ white, reaching the stem, and -forming very fine decurrent lines upon it. _Ring_ entire, wide and -marked with striae. _Stem_ often scaly, stuffed, becoming hollow; when -old, bulbous. Volva obliterated. The whole plant has a tendency to turn -a sienna-red, or rust colour. This is very distinctly shown some little -time after it has been bruised. - -It is very common all through the summer and autumn months; indeed, one -of the most abundant mushrooms; "and it is one of those species that a -person with the slightest powers of discrimination may distinguish -accurately from others."--_Badham._ - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus rubescens as an Edible Fungus._--"A -very delicate fungus, which grows in sufficient abundance to render it -of importance in a culinary point of view."--_Badham._ - -"From long experience I can vouch for its being not only wholesome, but, -as Dr. Badham says, 'a very delicate fungus.'"--_F. Currey_, Editor of -Dr. Badham's "Esculent Funguses." - -_Modes of Cooking the Agaricus rubescens._--It may be toasted, boiled, -or stewed in the ordinary way. - -_Fried Rubescens._--Place the full-grown agarics in water for ten -minutes, then drain, and having removed the warty skin, fry with butter, -pepper, and salt. The ketchup made from _Agaricus rubescens_ is rich and -good. "As it grows freely, and attains a considerable size, it is very -suitable for that purpose, quantity being a great desideratum in -ketchup-making."--_Plues._ - - -_Agaricus nebularis_ (Clouded Mushroom). - -[Illustration: Fig. 35. Agaricus nebularis (Clouded Mushroom). Woody -places, in autumn; colour, cream, with slate-coloured top; diameter, 4 -to 10 inches.] - -"_Pileus_ from two and a half to five inches across; at first -depresso-convex; when expanded, nearly flat or broadly subumbonate; -never depressed; margin at first involute and pruinose; occasionally -somewhat waved and lobed, but generally regular in form; smooth, viscid -when moist, so that dead leaves adhere to it; grey, brown at the centre, -paler towards the circumference. _Flesh_ thick, white, unchanging. -_Gills_ cream-colour, narrow, decurrent, close, their margins waved, -unequal, generally simple. _Stem_ from two to four inches long, from a -quarter of an inch to an inch thick; incurved at the base; not rooting, -but attaching by means of a floccose down round its lower portion and -for one-third of its length, a large quantity of dead leaves, by which -the plant is held erect; subequal, more or less marked with longitudinal -pits, firm externally, within of a softer substance. The _odour_ strong, -like that of curd cheese."--_Badham._ - -"Common in certain places, but very rare near London. This species comes -up late in the autumn on dead leaves in moist places, principally on the -borders of woods. The gastronomic excellences of this species are well -known. When gathered, it has a wholesome and powerful odour; and when -cooked, the firm and fragrant flesh has a particularly agreeable and -palatable taste."--_W. G. Smith._ - -"The _Agaricus nebularis_ requires but little cooking; a few minutes' -broiling (_a la_ Maintenon is best), with butter, pepper, and salt, is -sufficient. It may also be delicately fried with bread crumbs, or stewed -in white sauce. The flesh of this mushroom is perhaps lighter of -digestion than that of any other."--_Badham._ - - -_Lactarius deliciosus_ (Orange-milk Mushroom). - -[Illustration: Fig. 36. _Lactarius deliciosus_ (Orange-milk Mushroom). -Under fir-trees, in autumn; colour, brown-orange; milk at first orange, -then green; diameter, 3 to 10 inches.] - -_Pileus_ smooth, fleshy, umbilicate, of a dull rufous orange, turning -pallid from exposure to light and air, but zoned with concentric circles -of a brighter hue; margin smooth, at first involute, and then becoming -expanded; from three to five inches across. Flesh firm full of -orange-red milk, which turns green on exposure to the air, as does any -part of the plant when bruised. _Gills_ decurrent, narrow, each -dividing into two, three several times from the stem to the edge of the -pileus; of a dull yellow by reflected light, but being translucent, the -red milk shines brightly through them. _Stem_ from one to three inches -high, slightly bent and tapering downwards; solid, becoming more or less -hollow with age; short hairs at the base; sometimes pitted -(scrobiculate). - -There is no possibility of mistaking this fungus. It is the only one -which has _orange-red milk_, and which _turns green when bruised_. These -properties distinguish it at once from _Lactarius torminosus_ or -_necator_, the only fungus which in any way resembles it. - -This acrid fungus (_Lactarius torminosus_) is somewhat similar in shape -and size, and is also zoned. But the involute edges of the pileus are -bearded with close hairs. It is of a much paler colour, and with gills -of a dirty white. The milk, also, is white, acrid, and unchangeable in -colour. - -The Orange-milk agaric chiefly affects the Scotch fir-tree, and is -generally to be found beneath the drip of the branches around the tree. -It is also found in hedgerows occasionally, but is most abundant in -plantations of Scotch fir or larch. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Lactarius deliciosus as an Edible -Fungus._--"This is one of the best agarics with which I am acquainted, -fully deserving both its name and the estimation in which it is held -abroad, it reminds me of tender lambs' kidneys."--_Dr. Badham._ - -"Very luscious eating, full of rich gravy, with a little of the flavour -of mussels."--_Sowerby._ - -"Cook them well, and you will have something better than kidneys, which -they much resemble both in flavour and consistence."--_Mrs. Hussey._ - -_Modes of Cooking Lactarius deliciosus._--"The rich gravy it produces is -its chief characteristic, and hence it commends itself to make a rich -gravy sauce, or as an ingredient in soups. It requires delicate cooking, -for though fleshy it becomes tough if kept on the fire till all the -juice is exuded. Baking is perhaps the best process for this agaric to -pass through. It should be dressed when fresh and pulpy."--_Edwin Lees._ - -_Stewed Deliciosus._--"The _tourtiere_ (or pie-dish) method of cooking -suits _Lactarius deliciosus_ best, as it is firm and crisp in substance. -Be careful to use only sound specimens. Reduce them by cutting across to -one uniform bulk. Place the pieces in a pie-dish, with a little pepper -and salt, and a small piece of butter on each side of every slice. Tie a -paper over the dish, and bake gently for three-quarters of an hour. -Serve them up in the same hot dish."--_Mrs. Hussey._ - -_Deliciosus Pie._--Pepper and salt slices of the agaric, and place them -in layers with thin slices of fresh bacon, until a small pie-dish is -full; cover with a crust of pastry or mashed potatoes, and bake gently -for three-quarters of an hour. If with potato crust, brown nicely before -a quick fire. - -_Deliciosus Pudding._--Cut the agaric into small pieces; add similar -pieces of bacon, pepper, and salt, and a little garlic or spice; -surround with crust, and boil three-quarters of an hour. - -_Fried Deliciosus._--Fry in slices, properly seasoned with butter, or -bacon and gravy; and serve up hot with sippets of toast. A steak in -addition is a great improvement. - - -_Morchella esculenta_ (the Morel). - -Every one knows the Morel--that expensive luxury which the rich are -content to procure at great cost from our Italian warehouses, and the -poor are fain to do without. It is less generally known that this -fungus, though by no means so common with us as some others (a -circumstance partly attributable to the prevailing ignorance as to when -and where to look for it, or even of its being indigenous to England), -occurs not unfrequently in our orchards and woods, towards the beginning -of summer. Roques reports favourably of some specimens sent to him by -the Duke of Athol; and others, from different parts of the country, -occasionally find their way into Covent Garden Market. The genus -_Morchella_ comprises very few species, and they are all good to eat. -Persoon remarks, that though the Morel rarely appears in a sandy soil, -preferring a calcareous or argillaceous ground, it frequently springs up -on sites where charcoal has been burnt, or where cinders have been -thrown. - -[Illustration: Fig. 37. _Morchella esculenta_ (the Morel). Woods, &c., -in the spring; colour pale buff; height, 3 to 5 inches.] - -_Pileus_ very various in shape and hue, the surface broken-up into very -little cells, made by folds or plaits of the hymenium, which are more or -less salient, and constitute the so-called ribs. These _ribs_ are very -irregular, and anastomose with each other throughout; the pileus -hollow, opening into the irregular stem. _Spores_ pale yellow. Neither -of these funguses should be gathered after rain, as they are then -insipid and soon spoil. - -"M. Roques says the Morel may be dressed in a variety of ways, both -fresh and dry, with butter or in oil, _au gras_ or _a la creme_. The -following receipts for cooking them are from Persoon. 1st. Having washed -and cleansed them from the earth which is apt to collect between the -plaits, dry thoroughly in a napkin, and put them into a saucepan with -pepper, salt, and parsley, adding or not a piece of ham; stew for an -hour, pouring in occasionally a little broth to prevent burning; when -sufficiently done, bind with the yolk of two or three eggs, and serve on -buttered toast. 2nd. _Morelles a l'Italienne._--Having washed and dried, -divide them across, put them on the fire with some parsley, scallion, -chervil, burnet, tarragon, chives, a little salt, and two spoonfuls of -fine oil. Stew till the juice runs out, then thicken with a little -flour; serve with bread-crumbs and a squeeze of lemon. 3rd. _Stuffed -Morels._--Choose the freshest and whitest morels, open the stalk at the -bottom, wash and wipe them well, fill with veal stuffing, anchovy, or -any rich _farce_ you please, securing the ends, and dressing between -thin slices of bacon; serve with a sauce like the last."--_Badham._ - - -_Hygrophorus pratensis._ - -"_Pileus_ convexo-plane, then turbinate, smooth, moist; disc compact, -gibbous; margin thin; _stem_ stuffed, even, attenuated downwards; -_gills_ deeply decurrent, arcuate, thick, distant."--_Grev. t. 91; Huss. -II. t. 40._ - -[Illustration: Fig. 38 (1). _Hygrophorus pratensis._ Pastures, in -autumn; colour, full buff; diameter, 2 to 3 inches. - -Fig. 38 (2). _Hygrophorus virgineus_ (Viscid White Mushroom). Pastures, -in autumn; snow-white; diameter, 1/2 inch to 11/2 inches.] - -"On downs and short pastures. Very common. _Pileus_ tawny or -deep buff, sometimes nearly white, as in the next. Probably -esculent."--_Berkeley._ - - -_Hygrophorus virgineus_ (Viscid White Mushroom). - -"_Pileus_ fleshy, convexo-plane, obtuse, moist, at length -areolato-rimose; _stem_ stuffed, firm, short, attenuated at the base; -_gills_ decurrent, distant, rather thick."--_Grev. t. 166._ "On -downs and short pastures. Extremely common. Mostly pure -ivory-white."--_Berkeley._ - -This species, exquisite in form and flavour, is one of the prettiest -ornaments of our lawns, downs, and short pastures at the fall of the -year. In these situations it may be found in every part of the kingdom. -It is essentially _waxy_, and feels and looks precisely as if made of -the purest virgin wax. The stem is firm, stuffed, and attenuated, and -the gills singularly distant from each other; it changes colour a little -when getting old, at which time it is unfit for culinary purposes. - -A batch of fresh specimens, broiled or stewed with taste and care, will -prove agreeable, succulent, and flavorous eating, and may sometimes be -obtained when other species are not forthcoming. - -"Several allied species enjoy the reputation of being esculent, notably -_H. niveus_; and my friend Mr. F. C. Penrose has eaten, and speaks -favourably of _H. psittacinus_--a highly ornamental yellow species, with -a green stem, sometimes common enough in rich pastures (and _said_ to be -very suspicious)."--_W. G. Smith._ - - -_Cantharellus cibarius_ (Chantarelle). - -[Illustration: Fig. 39. _Cantharellus cibarius_ (Chantarelle). Woods, -autumn; rich golden yellow; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.] - -When young its _stalk_ is tough, white, and solid; but as it grows this -becomes hollow and presently changes to yellow; tapering below, it is -effused into the substance of the _pileus_, which is of the same colour -with it. The _pileus_ is lobed, and irregular in shape; its margin at -first deeply involute, afterwards when expanded, wavy. The _veins_ or -plaits are thick, subdistant, much sinuated, running some way down the -stalk. The _flesh_ is white, fibrous, dense, "having the odour of -apricots" (_Purton_) or of "plums" (_Vitt._). "The _colour_ yellow, like -that of the yolk of eggs, is deeper on the under surface; when raw it -has the pungent taste of pepper: the _spores_, which are elliptic, are -of a pallid ochre colour." (_Vitt._) The Chantarelle grows sometimes -sporadically, sometimes in circles or segments of a circle, and may be -found from June to October. At first it assumes the shape of a minute -cone: next, in consequence of the rolling in of the margin, the pileus -is almost spherical, but as this unfolds it becomes hemispherical, then -flat, at length irregular and depressed. - -"This fungus," observes Vittadini, "being rather dry and tough by -nature, requires a considerable quantity of fluid sauce to cook it -properly." "The common people in Italy dry or pickle, or keep it in oil -for winter use. Perhaps the best ways of dressing the Chantarelle are to -stew or mince it by itself, or to combine it with meat or with other -funguses. It requires to be gently stewed, and a long time to make it -tender; but by soaking it in milk the night before, less cooking will be -requisite."--_Badham._ - - -_Hydnum repandum_ (Hedgehog, or Spine-bearing Mushroom). - -[Illustration: Fig. 40. _Hydnum repandum_ (Spine-bearing Mushroom). -Woods, autumn; colour, pale buff; diameter, 2 to 5 inches.] - -_Pileus_ smooth, irregular in shape, depressed in the centre, more or -less lobed, and generally placed irregularly on the stem (eccentric); of -a pale buff or cinnamon colour; from two to five inches in diameter. -Flesh firm and white; when bruised it turns slightly brown. _Spines_ -crowded, awl-shaped, slanting, soft and brittle, varying in size and -length, and of a faint cinnamon tint. _Stem_ white, short, solid, -crooked, and often lateral. - -There is no possibility of mistaking the hedgehog mushroom: when once -seen it is always to be remembered. Its awl-shaped spines are crowded -beneath the pileus; its size and colour are most marked; it resembles -closely, as has been said, a lightly-baked cracknel biscuit in colour. - -"This fungus occurs principally in woods, and especially in those of -pine and oak; sometimes solitary, but more frequently in company and in -rings."--_Badham._ - -_Opinions on the Merits of Hydnum repandum as an Edible Fungus._--"The -general use of this fungus throughout France, Italy, and Germany, leaves -no room for doubt as to its good qualities."--_Roques._ - -"When well stewed it is an excellent dish, with a slight flavour of -oysters. It makes also a very good _puree_.--_Dr. Badham._ - -"A most excellent fungus, but it requires a little caution in -preparation for the table. It should be previously steeped in hot water -and well drained in a cloth; in which case there is certainly not a more -excellent fungus."--_Berkeley._ - -"A wholesome fungus and not to be despised; but not in the first class -as to flavour, requiring the help of condiments. It has the advantage, -however, of growing later than most funguses, and may be found up to the -middle of November."--_Edwin Lees._ - -"One of the most excellent fungi that grows; its flavour very strongly -resembles oysters."--_The Rev. W. Houghton._ - -_Modes of Cooking Hydnum repandum._--The hedgehog mushroom is dense in -structure, and in whatever way it may be cooked, all authorities agree -that it must be done slowly at a low temperature until it is tender, and -with plenty of stock or white sauce to supply its deficiency in -moisture. - -_Stewed Hydnum._--"Cut the mushrooms in pieces and steep for twenty -minutes in warm water; then place in a pan with butter, pepper, salt, -and parsley; add beef or other gravy, and simmer for an hour."--_Trans. -from M. Roques._ - -"Stew in a brown or white sauce."--_Mrs. Hussey._ - -"Cut up in bits about the size of a bean, and stew in white sauce, when -it will almost pass off as oyster sauce."--_The Rev. W. Houghton, -F.L.S._ - - -_Agaricus orcella_ (Orgelle or Vegetable Sweetbread). - -_Pileus_ thin, irregular, depressed in the centre, lobed, with undulated -borders, from two to three inches across. In colour clear white, -sometimes tinted with pale brown on its prominences, and occasionally -with a grey centre or even lightly zoned with grey. Its surface is soft -and smooth to the touch, except in wet weather, when it becomes soft -and sticky. The flesh is soft, colourless, and unchangeable. _Gills_ -crowded, decurrent, at first nearly white, then pinkish grey, taking at -length a light brown tint. Spores pale brown. _Stem_ smooth, solid, -short, decreasing in size; central when young, but becoming eccentric -from the pileus growing irregularly. _Odour_ pleasant, usually compared -to that of fresh meal, but Dr. Badham and others think it resembles more -closely the smell of cucumber or syringa leaf. - -[Illustration: Fig. 41. (1) _Agaricus orcella_ and (2) _Agaricus -prunulus_ (Plum Mushroom). Woody places, in autumn; colour, snow-white, -with pale rose gills; diameter, 2 to 4 inches.] - - -_Agaricus prunulus_ (Plum Mushroom). - -_Pileus_ fleshy, compact, at first convex, then expanded, becoming -depressed in the centre, irregularly waved, and slightly pruinose; from -two to five inches broad; surface dry, soft, white, or sometimes grey. -The flesh thick, white, and unchangeable. _Gills_ crowded, deeply -decurrent, at first white, then a pale dull flesh-colour, or yellowish -brown. Spores pale brown. _Stem_ white, solid, firm, slightly -ventricose, an inch or more long, and half an inch thick; naked, often -striate, and villose at the base; often eccentric. _Odour_ like that of -new meal, but usually too strong to be agreeable. - -There has been considerable confusion, writes Dr. Bull, between the two -Agarics _orcella_ and _prunulus_; some thinking that we have only -_orcella_ in England (_Dr. Badham_); and others only _prunulus_ (the -_Rev. M. J. Berkeley_), and others again that they are both the same -fungus, differing only in size. Dr. Badham and some others again confuse -_prunulus_ with _gambosus_, the fungus of early spring, and this has -arisen from the French term _mousseron_ being often applied to both -these funguses; but they are so essentially different as not to be -liable in any way to be mistaken for each other. _Agaricus orcella_ and -_A. prunulus_ are both placed on the same page in the illustration, so -that their close alliance may be seen at a glance. Fries treats them as -separate funguses, "in deference to ancient authority, since their -differences are chiefly in degree." These differences are, nevertheless, -so well marked, that they are kept separate here. _Orcella_ is a smaller -and more delicate fungus than _prunulus_. It is thinner and less fleshy, -more undulated in its borders, and has a lighter and more agreeable -odour. _Orcella_ grows in more open glades than _prunulus_; it is -usually much whiter in colour, sometimes in high situations white and -glazed as an egg-shell, or even pottery. _Orcella_ grows more solitary -than _prunulus_, in light, scattered groups, showing an inclination for -the neighbourhood of oak-trees, and where it does grow it may be found -year after year in the same place, but seldom more than two or three in -a spot. Last year, 1869, when _orcella_ was pretty plentiful, _prunulus_ -was not to be found in the situations where it grows usually most -abundantly. _Prunulus_ is the reverse of all this. It prefers more -shaded places, is larger, more fleshy, and with a strong odour rather -heavy and overpowering. It grows in greater quantities together, and not -unfrequently in crowded rings from four to six feet in diameter. - -As edible funguses they should certainly be kept distinct. _Orcella_ is -light and pleasant in odour, and excellent in flavour: it is so tender -and delicate as to be termed, not inaptly, "vegetable sweetbread." -_Prunulus_, on the other hand, though always good, is to many people -too strong in odour, and more coarse in taste. - -_Opinions on the Merits of Agaricus orcella and A. prunulus._--"A very -delicate mushroom."--_Dr. Badham._ "The flavour of _orcella_ is very -delicate, and equal to anything amongst fungi, or rather superior to the -majority. The same remarks apply to _prunulus_, which I think is the -same thing. It belongs to the first rank of edible fungi."--_Edwin -Lees._ - -_Modes of Cooking Agaricus orcella and Agaricus prunulus._--_Orcella_ -being usually found in small quantities, is best, perhaps, when broiled -and served on hot toast. _Prunulus_ will yield an abundance for broiling -or stewing, or both. "_Orcella_ should be eaten the day it is gathered, -either stewed, broiled, or fried with egg and bread-crumbs like -cutlets."--_Dr. Badham._ "However prepared, it is most excellent; the -flesh is firm and juicy, and full of flavour, and whether broiled or -stewed, it is a most delicious morsel."--_Worthington G. Smith._ -"_Orcella_ will dry, and may be preserved in this way. It loses much of -its volume, but it acquires _un aroma suavissimo_."--_Vittadini._ _From -the Transactions of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club._ - -_Edible Fungi in America._--To give an idea of the rich stores of fungi -that spring up in some distant parts of the earth, and in climes so -different to ours that one would at first sight suppose such fragile and -fugacious bodies as fungi would not abound in them, the following -interesting communication from Dr. Curtis, of South Carolina, to the -Rev. W. Berkeley is here given. It will prove well worthy the attention -of American readers:-- - -"You have asked me to give you my 'experience with the eatable mushrooms -of America.' This will be most satisfactorily done, I presume, in pretty -much the same style in which I would narrate it to you at your own -fireside. My experience runs back only about twelve or fifteen years. -You may remember that previous to this period I expressed a fear of -these edibles, as I had grown up with the common prejudices against them -entertained by most people in this country. Having occasionally read of -fearful accidents from their use, and there being abundance of other and -wholesome food obtainable, I felt no inclination to run any risks in -needlessly enlarging my bill of fare. Thus I had passed middle life -without having once even tasted a mushroom. - -"But as under your guidance and assistance my knowledge of fungi -increased, a confidence in my ability to discriminate species grew up -with it, and a curiosity to test the qualities of these much-lauded -articles got the better of timidity; and now, I suppose, I can safely -say, that I have eaten a greater variety of mushrooms than anyone on the -American continent. I have even introduced several species before -untried and unknown. From the beginning of my experiments, however, I -have exercised great caution, even with species long recognised as safe -and wholesome. In every case I began with only a single mouthful. No ill -effect following, I made a second essay upon two or three mouthfuls, and -so on gradually until I made a full meal of them. Fortunately, I have -never blundered upon any kind that was mischievous, although I have -eaten freely of forty species. This is due, perhaps, to my general -acquaintance with species that have been long used in Europe, and hence -I have made no experiments upon new species which had not some affinity -or analogy with them. - -"For instance, _A. campestris_ and _A. arvensis_ being wholesome, I did -not doubt but that _A. amygdalinus_ (a new species closely allied to _A. -arvensis_) might be safely attempted, and it has proved equally safe and -palatable. Indeed, this may be regarded as the safest of all species for -gathering, as it can be discriminated from all others even by a child or -a blind person. Its taste and odour are so very like those of peach -kernels or bitter almonds, that almost invariably the resemblance is -immediately mentioned by those who taste it crude for the first time. -This flavour is lost by cooking, unless the mushroom be underdone. When -thoroughly cooked I cannot myself distinguish it from _A. campestris_. -One or two persons have expressed the opinion that they can distinguish -it, and that it is not quite so good. Others, again, are equally -positive that it is better. In the crude state I deem it the most -palatable of all mushrooms, as it leaves a very agreeable aftertaste -upon the palate, fully equal to that of almonds. This is the thing I -sent you some years since for cultivation, but which failed to grow. I -very much wish it might be propagated in England, so that we might -ascertain whether it would undergo any change of qualities in a -different soil and climate. I have for some time been entertaining the -suspicion that such is the case with many of our species. Thus, in -European books the Morel is described as possessing a peculiar flavour, -that has given its name to the Morello cherry. I can detect nothing of -the sort in our morel. You speak of _A. Caesareus_ (in _Introd. Crypt. -Bot._) as being 'perhaps the most delicious of all fungi.' This grows in -great quantities in our oak-forests, and may be obtained by the cartload -in its season; but to my taste, and that of all my family, it is the -most unpalatable of all our fungi, nor can I find many of our most -passionate mycophagists who will avow that they like it. I have tried it -in almost every mode of cookery, but without success. There is a -disagreeable saline flavour that we cannot remove nor overlay. - -"In the _Tricholoma_ section, in which are several species long known as -edible, I did not hesitate to experiment upon any that had the odour and -taste of fresh flour. I began with _A. frumentaceus_, not learning from -books whether it had been eaten in Europe. To this I subsequently added -three new American species belonging to the same group. All are -excellent when stewed, and are especially valuable for their appearance -in late autumn, even during hard frosts, when other agarics are mostly -out of season. - -"Again, there seemed such a similarity of texture and habit between _A. -caespitosus_ (_Lentinus_, Berk.) and _A. melleus_, although the former -belongs to _Clitocybe_, that the temptation to a trial of it was -irresistible. As it is found here in enormous quantities, and a single -cluster will often contain fifty to a hundred stems, it might well be -deemed a valuable species in a time of scarcity. It would not be highly -esteemed where other and better sorts can be had; but it is generally -preferred to _A. melleus_. I have found this species very suitable for -drying for winter use. - -"Among the _Boleti_ I ventured, in ignorance if it had ever been eaten, -to try _B. collinitus_, on account of its close relationship with _B. -flavidus_. I am not particularly fond of _Boleti_, but this species has -been pronounced delicious by some to whom I have sent it. - -"So among the _Polypores_, I had no fear of harm from the use of a new -American species (_P. poripes_, Fr.), on account of its relation to _P. -ovinus_, in its texture and its flavour. The taste of the crude specimen -is like that of the best chestnuts or filberts. It has been compared -even with the cocoa-nut, and is certainly of very agreeable flavour. It -does not, however, make a superior dish for the table, being rather too -dry, but it is innocent and probably nutritious. - -"Of the '_Merisma_' group of _Polypores_, having already tried _P. -frondosus_, _P. confluens_, and _P. sulfureus_, I ventured, after some -hesitation, and with more than usual caution, to test the virtues of a -new American species (_P. Berkelei_, Fr.), notwithstanding the intense -pungency of the raw material, which bites as fiercely as _Lactarius -piperatus_. When young, and before the pores are visible, the substance -is quite crisp and brittle, and in this state I have eaten it with -impunity and with satisfaction, its pungency being all dissipated by -stewing. I do not, however, deem it comparable with _P. confluens_, -which is rather a favourite with me, as it is with some others to whom I -have introduced it. _P. sulfureus_ is just tolerable; safe, but not to -be coveted when one can get better. When I say safe, I mean not -poisonous. I cannot recommend it as a diet for weak stomachs, which -should be said of some other fungi of similar texture. I am here -reminded of an experience I had three or four years ago with this -species, which would have greatly alarmed me had it happened at an -earlier date in my experiments, and which would probably have deterred -anyone unused to this kind of diet from ever indulging in it again. I -had a sumptuous dish of it on my supper-table, of which most of my -family, as well as a guest staying with us, partook very freely. During -the night I became exceedingly sick, and was not relieved until relieved -of my supper. My first thought on the accession of my illness was of -_Polyporus sulfureus_; but as I remembered that inflammation was one of -the symptoms of fungus-poisoning, and I could detect no indications of -this in my case, I soon dismissed the rising fear, did not send for the -doctor, nor take any remedy. Others, who had partaken of the fungus more -freely than myself were not at all affected; and I presume my sickness -was no more induced by the _Polyporus_ than by the bread and butter I -had eaten. And yet, had I alone partaken of the dish, or had one or two -others been affected in like manner, doubtless the night attack would -have been very confidently attributed by some to the mushroom; or had -this been my first trial of that article, possibly I might ever after -have regarded it with suspicion. I learned a few days afterwards from -one of our physicians, that this kind of sickness was then somewhat -prevalent in the community, and could be attributed to no known cause. -For the credit of this species, therefore, we were fortunately able to -distinguish the _post hoc_ from the _propter hoc_. - -"There are families in America that for generations have freely and -annually eaten mushrooms, preserving a habit brought from Europe by -their ancestors. In no case have I heard of an accident among them. I -have known no instance of mushroom-poisoning in this country, except -where the victims rashly ventured upon the experiment without knowing -one species from another. Among the families above mentioned, I have not -met with any whose knowledge of mushrooms extended beyond the common -species (_A. campestris_), called pink gill in this country. Several -such families live near me, but not one of them was aware, until I -informed them, that there are other edible kinds. Everything but the -pink gill, which had the form of a mushroom, was to them a toadstool, -and poisonous. When I first sent my son with a fine basket of Imperials -(_A. Caesareus_), to an intelligent physician, who was extravagantly fond -of the common mushroom, the lad was greeted with the indignant -exclamation, 'Boy, I wouldn't eat one of those things to save your -father's head!' When told that they were eaten at my table, he accepted -them, ate them, and has eaten many a one since, with all safety and with -no little relish. Since that time our mycophagists eat whatever I send -them, without fear or suspicion. - -"I have interested myself to extend the knowledge of these things among -the lovers of mushrooms, and also their use among those who have not -before tried them. In the latter work I am not always successful, on -account of a strong prejudice against vegetables with such contemptible -names, and an unconquerable fear of accidents. Yet, as in my own case, -curiosity often conquers these errors. When away from home I have -frequently obtained permission from a kind hostess to have cooked a dish -of mushrooms that I have found on her premises. It has rarely occurred -in such cases that the dish, then tasted for the first time, was not -declared to be delicious, or the best thing ever put in the mouth. This -latter phrase was once used in reference to so indifferent an article as -_A. salignus_. Indeed, I have found several persons who class this -amongst the most palatable species. To such persons a dish of fresh -mushrooms need seldom be wanting, as this one can be had every month of -the year in this latitude. I am induced to believe that the quality of -this species varies with the kind of wood it grows from, and that it is -better flavoured when gathered from the mulberry, and especially from -the hickory, than when taken from most other trees. Its fitness for the -table seems also to depend much upon the rapidity of its growth; those -which grow slowly, as is the case with some of our garden vegetables, -being of tougher texture and of less delicate flavour. A warm sun after -heavy rains brings them out in greatest perfection. - -"I have several times been asked by persons eating mushrooms for the -first time, whether these things belong to the vegetable or animal -kingdom. There is certainly a very noticeable resemblance in the flavour -of some of them to that of flesh, fish, or mollusc, so that the -question, as founded merely on taste, is not an unnatural one. But I was -much struck with its propriety when reading an article in 'Fraser's -Magazine,' a few years since, written by the late Mr. Broderip, who -therein says that mushrooms contain osmazome. If this be so, it -accounts both for their flavour and for their value as food. Of this -latter quality I had become so well convinced that, during our late war, -I sometimes averred, and I doubt if there was much, if any, exaggeration -in the assertion, that in some parts of the country I could maintain a -regiment of soldiers five months of the year upon mushrooms alone. - -"This leads to a remark which should not be overlooked, upon the great -abundance of eatable mushrooms in the United States. I think it is Dr. -Badham who boasts of their unusual number in Great Britain, stating that -there are thirty edible species in that kingdom. I cannot help thinking -that this is an under-estimate. But if the Doctor is correct, there is -no comparison between the number in your country and this. I have -collected and eaten forty species found within two miles of my house. -There are some others within this limit which I have not yet eaten. In -the catalogue of the plants of North Carolina, you will notice that I -have indicated one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi known to -inhabit this State. I have no doubt there are forty or fifty more, as -the alpine portion of the State, which is very extensive and varied, has -been very little explored in search of fungi. - -"In October, 1866, while on the Cumberland Mountains in Tennessee, a -plateau less than 1000 feet above the valleys below, although having -very little leisure for examination during the two days spent there, I -counted eighteen species of edible fungi. Of the four or five species -which I collected there for the table, all who partook of them, none of -whom had before eaten mushrooms, most emphatically declared them -delicious. On my return homeward, while stopping for a few hours at a -station in Virginia, I gathered eight good species within a few hundred -yards of the depot. And so it seems to be throughout the country. Hill -and plain, mountain and valley, woods, fields, and pastures, swarm with -a profusion of good, nutritious fungi, which are allowed to decay where -they spring up, because people do not know how, or are afraid, to use -them. By those of us who know their use their value was appreciated, as -never before, during our late war, when other food, especially meat, was -scarce and dear. Then such persons as I have heard express a preference -for mushrooms over meat had generally no need to lack grateful food, as -it was easily had for the gathering, and within easy distance of their -homes if living in the country. Such was not always the case, however. I -remember on one occasion during the gloomy period, when there had been a -protracted drought, and fleshy fungi were to be found only in damp, -shaded woods, and but few even there, I was unable to find enough of any -one species for a meal; so gathering of every kind, I brought home -thirteen different kinds, had them all cooked together in one grand -_pot pourri_, and made an excellent supper. Among these was the -Chantarelle, upon which I would say a few words in confirmation of what -I have already said upon the varying qualities of mushrooms in different -regions and localities. You have somewhere written of this mushroom as -being so highly esteemed a delicacy, that it is much sought for when a -dinner of state is given in London. Can this be because it is a rarity? -(for nothing common and easily obtained is deemed a delicacy, I -believe), or because you have it of finer flavour in England? Here, -where it abounds, no one seems to care at all for it, and some would -forego mushrooms entirely rather than eat this. It certainly varies much -in quality, as I have occasionally found it quite palatable, and again, -though cooked in the same mode, very indifferent. I have been unable to -ascertain whether this difference is due to locality, exposure, shade, -soil, moisture, or temperature. That soil has much to do with the -flavour of some species of mushrooms I am well convinced. In a parcel of -pink gills I have sometimes found one or two specimens, though perfectly -sound, of such unpleasant odour and taste as would spoil a whole dish. -So also with the snowball (_A. arvensis_), of which I annually find a -few beautiful specimens growing near my residence, upon a grassy turf -which covers a pile of trash made up of decomposed sticks, leaves, and -scrapings from the adjoining soil. Their taste and odour are perfectly -detestable. I had one specimen cooked, but no amount of seasoning could -abate the offensiveness of the odious thing; yet within a hundred yards -of these I gather specimens of the same identical species, which are of -fine flavour, equal to that of the best mushrooms. As I have before -intimated the varying flavour of mushrooms growing on different kinds of -wood, so here I suppose the unpleasant qualities of some specimens of -these two well-known and favourite species, may be owing to something in -the soil where they grow which they cannot assimilate, and so render a -palatable and wholesome species totally unfit for the table. Whether -such specimens, if eaten, would be poisonous or unwholesome, I do not -feel any temptation to prove. It is not probable that they will ever do -any mischief, for it is incredible that any human being should so -pervert his instincts as to swallow such a villanous concoction. - -"Experience and observations like these would perhaps justify the -inference that an innocent species may sometimes be deleterious, on -account of its taking up some bad element from the soil. But as I have -never known a case of poisoning in families that are well acquainted -with the common mushroom or pink gill, that gather the specimens for -themselves, and have used this article of food annually for many -generations, I cannot agree with a suggestion somewhere made by you, -that perhaps all mushrooms contain a poisonous element, but some of them -in such small quantity as to have no appreciable effect. Now, had you -seen the quantities of stewed mushrooms swallowed at a single meal which -I have seen thus devoured, and with no more harm than from the same -amount of oyster or turtle soup, I think you would be forced to the -conclusion that such an amount, even of poisonous infinitesimals, must -have had some very unpleasant manifestations, or else be a very innocent -diet. - -"It is said that the sale of the pink gill (_A. campestris_) is -forbidden in the Italian markets, because that species has often proved -to be poisonous. May not this have been occasioned by ignorant and -careless collectors or by worthless inspectors? To us in America, who -use this species so freely and fearlessly, the Italian's curse, 'May he -die of a Pratiolo!' would have no more terror than 'May he die of -aromatic pain.' - -"Our best and standard mushrooms are the pink-gill (_A. campestris_); -snowball (_A. arvensis_); peach-kernel (_A. amygdalinus_); nut (_A. -procerus_); French (_A. prunulus_); morel (_M. esculenta_); coral -(_Clavaria_); and omelette (_Lycoperdon giganteum_). These are almost -universally in high esteem. Yet tastes differ on these things as on -fruits and vegetables; some putting one, some another, at the head of -the list, though fond of all and ever ready to use any of them--as one -who prefers a peach may yet relish an apple. There are some among us who -regard _A. procerus_ as fully equal to _A. campestris_, and I am almost -of the same opinion. When broiled or fried it truly makes a luscious -morsel. I mention in this connexion, that this species here bears the -name of nut mushroom, from a quality that I do not find mentioned in the -books which describe it. The stem when fresh and young has a sweet nutty -flavour, very similar to that of the hazel nut. Is this the case with -you? Its flavour is so agreeable that I am fond of chewing the fresh -stems. From this peculiarity in connexion with its movable ring, its -form and colours, I deem it a perfectly safe species to recommend for -collecting. We have no species likely to be mistaken for it, except _A. -rachodes_, and I fully tested the innocence of this before commending -the first to others. This has been suspected by some, but I have found -it harmless. Though pretty well flavoured, it is not comparable with _A. -procerus_, and the flesh is so thin and spongy that no one would choose -it when those of more compact texture are to be had. _A. excoriatus_, of -the same group, is a much preferable species. - -"The Morel is one of my greatest favourites, but this is not found in -quantity except in calcareous districts. A few days since (April 21) I -had a dozen for supper, the largest number I ever had at one time. - -"The _Lycoperdon giganteum_ is also a great favourite with me, as it is, -indeed, with all my acquaintances who have tried it. It has not the high -aroma of some others, but it has a delicacy of flavour that makes it -superior to any omelette I have ever eaten. It seems, furthermore, to be -so digestible as to adapt it to the most delicate stomachs. This is the -South Down of mushrooms. - -"In this latitude (about 36 degrees) we can find good mushrooms for the -table during nine or ten months of the year. Including _A. salignus_, -which some are quite fond of, we can have them in every month, as this -species comes out during any warm spell in winter. _A. campestris_ makes -its appearance here as early as March, but is not in full crop until -September. Several excellent species of the _Tricholoma_ group do not -spring up until after frost sets in, and continue into December. Such is -the case too with _Boletus collinitus_, which sometimes emerges from the -earth frozen solid. - -"These observations and experiences are confined chiefly to the -Carolinas; though I presume, from casual observations elsewhere, and -from information derived from correspondents in other States, that, -making some allowance for difference of climate and length of seasons, -what I have said is generally applicable to the whole country." - - -_Why we should not eat Funguses._ - -The following interesting paper from the Rev. J. D. La Touche was read -at a meeting of the Woolhope Naturalists' Field Club:-- - -"It is said that at Rome, when a mortal is about to be raised to the -dignity of sainthood, the precaution is taken of providing a 'devil's -advocate,' who, by pointing out as strongly as he can all the faults of -the candidate, secures the fair discussion of both sides of the -question, and is a guarantee, moreover, that no unworthy aspirant to -such exalted honours should be rashly admitted to them. - -"On the present occasion I make bold to present myself in this unamiable -capacity. No member, indeed, of this respected Club is seeking -canonization, yet, a step not less important is contemplated in the -enrolment of a hitherto despised and even abhorred member of the -vegetable kingdom among the list of its edible products; indeed, some -may consider such a step as of more importance to our race than the -apotheosis of a peccant mortal; and therefore it would appear that, if -in the one instance it is desirable that all the peccadilloes of the -candidate should be exposed, _a fortiori_, it must be so in the other. - -"Let me, then, first observe that these gentlemen at the bar have -actually a very bad character, and that it is not likely that this would -be the case unless they were really great sinners. - -"Here, some will exclaim, no doubt, 'Prejudice, my dear sir! vulgar -prejudice is capable of the grossest injustice--ignorant prejudice has -driven from our tables a delicious article of food, and deprived the -poor of a wholesome diet.' It is often said that he was a brave man who -first ate an oyster, and truly a more uninviting mouthful than it was -could scarcely be imagined; and yet the fact that it _is_ good and -wholesome soon disposed of any prejudice against it. And is it not -likely that such would be the case, were the fungus tribe fit for human -food? Can we suppose any prejudice arising from their leathery looks -would not evaporate like mists before the morning sun, were they really -the nutritious and delicious dainties they are described to be by their -enthusiastic advocates? - -"I think it may be observed that the general character which a man bears -is, on the whole, a true one. That big school, the world in which we -live, contrives, in some way or other, to hit off pretty accurately our -average merit and take our measure, and though it may make a mistake now -and then in some particular instance, its general estimate is a fair -one; and so with funguses. There may be a too-sweeping condemnation of -all kinds of them: nay, it may be even probable that _Agaricus -campestris_ is not the best that grows, and yet, after all, the -prevalent distrust of the tribe is well founded. - -"When, _e.g._, some family in a parish is known to have been poisoned by -eating a wrong sort, it is not surprising, nor can it be called stupid -prejudice, if their neighbours are ever after rather shy of the article -of food which produced that result. But it will be said that the -mischief arose from ignorance--had that family known the marks that -distinguish between the wholesome and the poisonous kinds this would -never have taken place. If ever there was a case in which ignorance was -bliss, surely this is it. A short time ago, I accompanied a scientific -friend in a foray among the funguses, which we made with a special view -to the improvement of our intended repast, and was on that occasion -struck with the elaborate precautions which seemed to be necessary to -observe in discriminating the good from the bad. It would almost seem -that Nature had purposely contrived a labyrinth of ingenious -stumbling-blocks to guard this mysterious product from the insatiable -appetites of mankind; and so it came to pass after all, my good -friend--who really seemed well up in the subject, and who found at every -turn some well-known test of wholesomeness or otherwise to guide him in -the specimens we collected--wound up the day by nearly poisoning a -member of my family: for he had, it appears, mistaken _Boletus flavus_, -a violent poison, for the very similar but wholesome and excellent -_Boletus luteus_--the only difference being that the pores of the one -are somewhat smaller and less angular than those of the other. Surely, -in this instance, knowledge (and it was not in his case a little -knowledge either) was a dangerous thing. - -"But still it may be said that there are species the characters of which -are sufficiently well-defined, and that from these, at least, the -stigma ought to be removed. But even so, I would submit one or two -questions to those who may be inclined to admit this. 1st. Is it so -clear that a fungus which agrees with one person may not be very -injurious to another? One man has, to use a vulgar expression, the -stomach of a horse. Can I, an average mortal, calculate on possessing -such a treasure? I saw with my own eyes my scientific friend eat and -swallow an entire _Boletus flavus_, raw, without any apparent bad -effects either that evening or the following day, whereas a small -portion of the same kind, cooked too (I cannot, however, say _secundum -artem_), produced violent sickness on another individual, who, moreover, -had never before experienced sickness; indeed, this fact would seem to -suggest that the stomach may be 'educated' by long habit to bear this -noxious food, and, therefore, that its evil effects (harmless upon -organs well trained) happen when the _experimentum in corpore vili_ is -tried. My friend assures me that he has eaten the highly poisonous -_Boletus satanas_ with no worse effect than a little indigestion the -next morning. Can, I would ask, the experience of such a seasoned -digestive apparatus as his be any guide to those who have not gone -through the course of training which he has? - -"Again, may it not be possible that the same kind of fungus which in -some instances is wholesome, may, if grown under different -circumstances, and supplied with different nutriment, assume very -different properties? And again, are we competent to judge of the -wholesomeness of a particular article of food unless it is tried by a -very large number of persons--unless it be 'exhibited,' to use a medical -term, on a great variety of constitutions? Indeed, is there not some -ground for thinking that such an exhibition would be in many instances -far from satisfactory? - -"On the whole, it would appear that the advice of an eminent physician, -an ardent admirer of the fungus, was good and sound. When he heard of -the escape my family had on this occasion, he said that this article of -diet should be partaken of with 'great caution.' And by the way, is not -this itself a very suspicious expression? 'Great caution!' If I am -introduced to a gentleman, and told at the same time that I must conduct -myself towards him with 'great caution' or he will probably do me some -deadly mischief, it would hardly be thought a very hearty and promising -introduction; yet here we are told that this excellent family to which -we are so warmly introduced has some members belonging to it so -villanously disposed, that possibly we may pay for our acquaintance with -our lives. This is not very encouraging, and so the course adopted by a -young lady who indulges in these experiments, to whom I was speaking the -other day, would seem to be a very prudent one. She says she never -partakes of these dainties till she has seen the effect they have had -upon somebody else! But even so, only picture the ghastly scene which a -banquet of this kind would present; each guest looking anxiously into -his neighbour's face, awaiting in terror the contortions which are to -show that he has partaken of the fatal dish." - -While Mr. La Touche's paper should not deter us from using and showing -others the value of the quantities of _edible_ fungi now generally -allowed to rot in our fields and woods, and nowhere perhaps so abundant -as in the pleasure grounds and woods round country seats, yet, as -impressing the necessity of using due discrimination in gathering, it -may be read with advantage by all. - - - - -INDEX. - - - PAGE - - AGARICUS amygdalinus, 147 - " arvensis, 98 - " Caesareus, 97, 152 - " caespitosus (Lentinus), 149 - " campestris, 95 - " cylindricus, 118 - " excoriatus, 114 - " fimetarius, 118 - " frumentaceus, 148 - " gambosus, 121 - " melleus, 149 - " nebularis, 127 - " orcella, 141 - " procerus, 113 - " prunulus, 143 - " rachodes, 114 - " rubescens, 125 - " salignus, 153 - " typhoides, 118 - " villaticus, 100 - - "Agaric of civilization", 119 - - American Edible Fungi, 145 - - Arches, Mushroom culture in, 47 - - - BOLETUS collinitus, 149 - " flavidus, 149 - " flavus, 163 - " luteus, 163 - " satanas, 164 - - Bricks, mushroom-spawn in, 25 - - Brown Warty Agaric, 125 - - - CANTHARELLUS cibarius, 137 - - Cave-culture of mushrooms, 57 - - Cellars, mushroom culture in, 51 - - Champignonniste at Montrouge, 57 - - Chantarelle, 137 - - Clavaria, 158 - - Clouded Mushroom, 127 - - Common Mushrooms, 95 - " how to cook the, 102 - - Coprinus comatus, 117 - - Coral Mushroom, 158 - - Covering for Mushroom-beds, 34 - " advantageous to Mushroom crop, 87 - - Cucumber frames, Mushroom culture in, 56 - - - FAIRY-RING Champignon, 108 - - Fermentation of manure, how prevented, 16 - - Floor of Mushroom-house, 3, 5 - - French mode of preparing manure, 16 - " Mushroom-caves, 57, 71 - " Mushroom-spawn, 28 - - Forsyth's Mushroom-house, 7 - - Frogmore, Mushroom-house at, 5 - - - GARDENS and fields, Mushroom culture in, 77 - - Gardens about London, Mushroom culture in, 78 - - Greenhouses, Mushroom culture in, 53 - - - HABITATS of the wild Mushroom, 90 - - Heating of the Mushroom-house, 6 - - Hedgehog Mushroom, 139 - - Horse Mushroom, 98 - - Hydnum repandum, 139 - - Hygrophorus pratensis, 135 - " psittacinus, 136 - " virgineus, 135 - " niveus, 136 - - - IRON injurious to Mushrooms, 74 - - - LACTARIUS deliciosus, 129 - " piperatus, 150 - " torminosus (necator), 130 - - Lawns, Mushroom culture not desirable on, 93 - - Lycoperdon giganteum, 159 - - - MANED Agaric, the, 117 - - Manure, preparation of, 13 - " Mr. Early's method of preparing, 14 - " Mr. Barnes's " , 14 - " Frogmore " , 15 - " how prepared by London market-gardeners, 15 - " how kept from fermenting, 16 - " French mode of preparing, 16 - " summary of directions for preparing, 17 - - Marasmius oreades, 108 - " urens, 109 - - Mill-track Mushroom-spawn, 27 - - Montrouge, Mushroom-caves at, 57 - - Morchella esculenta, 130 - - Morel, the, 130 - - Mouceron or mousseron, 123, 143 - - Mushroom-beds, materials for, 13 - " " of sawdust, 19 - " " of leaves and loam, 19, 21 - " " of street-sweepings, &c., 19 - " " chief point to be observed in making, 21 - " " best time for making, 21 - " " depth of, 18 - " " in a stable, 30 - " " covering for, 34 - " " how to reduce the heat of, 34 - " " how to ascertain the heat of, 34 - " " how to spawn properly, 35 - " " soil for earthing, 37 - " " the watering of, 38 - " " vermin in, 39 - " " treatment of old, 41, 46 - " " temperature of, 33, 79 - " " soil for covering, 79 - " caves, contrivance for watering beds in, 75 - " " " for making beds in, 75 - " " localities of, 75 - " " depth of, 18, 76 - " " immense extent of, 76 - " " at Montrouge, 57 - " " description of soil used in, 61 - " " daily produce of, 62 - " " appearance of beds in, 61 - " " kind of manure used in, 65 - " " difficulty in visiting, 65 - " " at Frepillon, account of, 66 - " " " extent of beds in, 66 - " " " plan of, 68 - " " " appearance of beds in, 70 - " " " daily produce of, 66, 70 - " " preparation of manure in, 71 - " " " of spawn in, 73 - " crop, how to gather, 42 - " culture in a shed, 45 - " " in arches, 47 - " " in stables, 49 - " " in cellars, 51 - " " in bottoms of old casks, 52 - " " in cold greenhouses, 53 - " " under stages in glass-houses, 55 - " " in cucumber or melon frames, 56 - " " in caves near Paris, 57 - " " open-air in Parisian market gardens, 80 - " " in gardens among other crops, 84 - " " in gardens and fields, 77 - " " in summer, 77 - " " in gardens at Earl's Court, 78 - " " on lawns not desirable, 93 - " " in pastures, &c., 88 - " growing in open-air, Mr. Ayres's account of, 85 - - Mushrooms dislike coal and iron, 74 - " " tar, 48 - - Mushroom-house, chief requirement in the construction of, 2 - " " at back of hothouses, 2 - " " floor of, 3, 5 - " " without artificial heat, 4 - " " with slate or tiled roof, 4 - " " with thatched roof, 5 - " " condition of air in, 4 - " " at Frogmore, 5 - " " how secured from damp, 5, 6 - " " best position for, 6 - " " how heated, 6 - " " used for forcing and blanching vegetables, 6 - " " under shed (Forsyth's), 7 - " " best kind of shelves for, 7 - " " at Stoke Place, 8 - " " against wall, best roof for, 9 - " " proper width of, 9 - " " Russian (Oldacre's), 10 - " " ventilation of, 5, 7, 9 - " " with brick arched inner roof, 9 - " " with close-bottomed shelves, 9 - " " shelves of cast-iron grating for, 11 - " " necessity of cleaning, 42 - " " temperature of, 33 - " spawn, what it is, 23 - " " how obtained in the first instance, 24 - " " "natural" or "virgin", 24 - " " how to preserve, 25 - " " in bricks, 25 - " " " " recipes for making, 26 - " " mill-track, 27 - " " French, 28 - " " how to save the expense of purchasing, 29 - " " French, experiment with, 30 - - Mushrooms not produced by chance, 89 - " quantities exported from France, 64 - - - NUT Mushroom, 158 - - - OLDACRE'S mushroom-house, 10 - - Old mushroom-beds, treatment of, 41 - - Omelette, 158 - - Open-air culture of Mushrooms at Paris, 80 - - Orange-milk Mushroom, 129 - - Orgelle, 141 - - - PASTURES, how to introduce Mushrooms into, 92 - - Parasol Agaric, 113 - - Peach-kernel Mushroom, 158 - - Pink-gill Mushroom, 158 - - Places in which Mushrooms may be grown, 1 - - Plum Mushroom, 143 - - Polyporus Berkelei, 150 - " confluens, 150 - " frondosus, 150 - " ovinus, 149 - " poripes, 149 - " sulfureus, 150 - - Pratiolo, 97, 158 - - - RAIN, injurious to mushroom-crop, 87 - - Red-fleshed Mushroom, 125 - - Roof of mushroom-house, 4, 5 - - Russian mushroom-house, 10 - - - SAWDUST for mushroom-beds, 19 - - Scaly Mushroom, 113 - - Shed, mushroom-house under, 7 - " mushroom culture in, 45 - - Shelves of mushroom-house, 7 - " cast-iron grating for, 11 - - Snowball Mushroom, 158 - - Soil for earthing mushroom-beds, 37 - - Spawn, how to prepare without expense, 91 - - Spinaroli, 123 - - Spine-bearing Mushroom, 139 - - Stables, mushroom culture in, 49 - - Stoke Place, mushroom-house at, 8 - - Street-sweepings for mushroom-beds, 19 - - St. George's Mushroom, 121 - - Summer cultivation of Mushrooms, 77 - - - TAR, Mushrooms' dislike of, 48 - - Temperature of mushroom-beds, 33 - " of mushroom-house, 33 - - - VEGETABLE Sweetbread, 141 - - Ventilation of mushroom-house, 5, 7, 9 - - Vermin in mushroom-beds, 39 - - "Virgin" mushroom-spawn, 24 - - Viscid White Mushroom, 135 - - - WATERING of mushroom-beds, the, 38 - - "Why should we not eat Funguses", 160 - - -THE END. - - - * * * * * - - -Transcriber's Notes - -Missing periods and quotation marks have been supplied where obviously -required. All other original errors and inconsistencies have been -retained, except as follows: - - Page 106: medium-sized changed to medium-size - (or so of medium-size, place two) - Page 123: Stafora changed to Staffora - (the valley of Staffora, near Bobbio,) - Page 138: Cantharelle changed to Chantarelle - (dressing the Chantarelle are) - Page 165: person--sunless changed to persons--unless - (number of persons--unless it be) - - - - - -End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Mushroom Culture, by W. 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